Best boating equipment according to redditors
We found 1,210 Reddit comments discussing the best boating equipment. We ranked the 630 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,210 Reddit comments discussing the best boating equipment. We ranked the 630 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Here's the /r/autodetailing answer for you:
Pump is a 12v 35psi pressure pump I got off Amazon for $30. It is only on/activated when pressure drops on the line (i.e. when you turn the faucet on).
The unit is fed via a 25ft 12v extension cord from the cigarette lighter in the car or off the car battery directly if you'd prefer. On the side of the unit I have a female cigarette lighter port which is where I run the male-male extension. There are two 2.1A USB ports which are always on so you can charge phones and stuff, a master power switch for the lights and pump (just in case a fitting were to fail and cause the pump to run all night and drain the car battery).
For low light situations i think getting an attachment with an LED light on it would work, because in the previous streams the only drawback besides D/C from s8 in buildings is the low light performance.
https://www.amazon.com/AMIR-Rechargeable-Adjustable-Brightness-Smartphones/dp/B01N985HG0/ref=pd_sim_107_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01N985HG0&pd_rd_r=425SS243P73HQVMCA10Y&pd_rd_w=hqXqy&pd_rd_wg=64VDg&psc=1&refRID=425SS243P73HQVMCA10Y
it doesn't have to specifically be this product but, if it's attached to a wide angle lens and has a LED light it might be perfect unless you want him to get an LED light for the actual selfie stick. (i would much rather prefer Ice switching to the teradek system inside clubs just so the low light performance is the best it can be)
If you are going to be sending like 6 powerbanks (i'm serious send over 5 powerbanks) to easily charge get a multi usb super charger
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YRYS4T4/ref=psdc_12557637011_t2_B00P936188
Of course you want to send more adapters for the different outlets, multiple because the hotels only send him one.
Losing his wallet is shitty content now, plus he will be going to places where there are a fuckton of pick pockets. Solve two problems with this.
https://www.amazon.com/Venture-4th-Travel-Blocking-Passport/dp/B014UULU7M/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01FWC56RW&pd_rd_r=H5N9JTAB5A6T5SGT075J&pd_rd_w=0S218&pd_rd_wg=Oy2iJ&refRID=H5N9JTAB5A6T5SGT075J&th=1
Ice can wear this around his neck, and just pull it out to show ID and take out cash and his credit card, leave his passport with his other shit. Put a reminder to always tuck it back into his tshirt when he isn't using it.
For the weather:
Here is a drypack, so the powerbanks and extra phones/wires don't get wet.
https://www.amazon.com/Chaos-Ready-Waterproof-Backpack-Snowboarding/dp/B01BIN27SA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1499109716&sr=8-5&keywords=dry+pack
If that won't work with the teradek backup, just get a poncho
https://www.amazon.com/Frogg-Toggs-Action-Poncho-Blue/dp/B00DIGKQH0/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1499109863&sr=1-7&keywords=poncho
If tried to find a waterproof case but I'm not sure if they would work with the stick/wide angle lens, since you will be sending him the equipment please look into a something that could both use a wide angle lens on top of a waterproof case.
Also tell him to buy a couple more S8's. I know that is a huge investment but this retard is gonna break everything. And obviously get him unthrottled internet anyway possible.
Goodluck manager.
It might sound dumb, but these are pretty popular in the canyoneering community. They weigh 5 lbs (their biggest downside), but are really stable and can handle some lower class whitewater stuff, provided there's no rocks to scrape on. I have and have seen others run rapids in the Grand Canyon on these things. The best part is they're only $20. Most people I know grab aftermarket lighter paddles with them though.
Time to start saving up, know what im buying
You are fucking lucky that she is ok. DO NOT let that happen again.
Carry one of these or something similar at all times when you’re walking with your daughter in a park, so that you can scare the fuck out of any dog that approaches closer than 5 feet. If you see a dog approaching your daughter, say the word cover loudly and step to the dog, because you will already have had a conversation with your daughter about the horn, and she’ll know that you intend on using it to keep dogs away from her. She will when hearing the word, cover both of her ears with her hands while keeping her eyes on the dog. You can actually try it once to show her how loud it is before you get to the park. If the owner of the dog starts yelling at you for scaring their dog, say the word cover again and give that piece of shit a blast. Grab your daughters hand and find a better direction. Life is meant to be enjoyed.
https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Eco-Air-Horn/dp/B01NCSJGGC/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1491187572&sr=8-11&keywords=air+horn
That cooking spray on your door seals is going to ruin the car as well.
Use a proper rubber treatment instead like this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419967946&sr=8-2&keywords=303+aerospace+cleaner
303 Aerospace Protectant
I'd try some type of glossy interior detailer. It will cover it up and possibly restore some of the oils back into the plastic.
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This is good stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
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If it's painted, you might be out of luck. It looks like bare plastic in the pic but I just saw you comment about taking the paint off.
Buy an air horn. They are cheap on Amazon, and many can be refilled with a bike pump.
Not sure if this one is refillable, but it can be at your house for $8.
Every time they say your name or LO's name while speaking Russian, blast it. Don't let them talk. Aim it at MIL if you can. Just make sure the baby is in another room.
"Oh, the air horn is annoying? So is talking shit about me in a language I don't speak. If you continue to speak around me and about me in Russian, you won't be allowed in my home, and you WON'T be allowed near my child.
"And YOU, DH, can decide which pillows you would like with you on the couch tonight. We will discuss our issues, and then you will have plenty of time to consider what I've said while on the couch."
Edit: learning the language should be a high priority for you. You NEED to know what MIL is saying, and you can't trust DH to give an accurate, non-sugar-coated translation. She could be saying that LO looks like the mail man, and Wren is obviously a whore, she is going to play you for a fool, etc. And who knows how much DH is actually standing up for you.
Record one of their next conversations, preferably with something that can translate later, and find out what she is saying. Maybe just upload it as private in YouTube and only invite a volunteer or two from /r/Russia or something to translate it. I'd recommend a native speaker so that idioms and phrases are translated with the intent or subtle meanings intact.
Two words: Air Horn
Here's what we did to store our TI4 in the box. I stole the idea from user bigegg on the bgg forums in this thread--
https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1885145/storage-solution-box
Some of his details are incorrect and he has no references for what he actually used or bought, so that's what I'm doing here.
Ground force tokens, trade good tokens, and other misc things go in one of these: (EDIT: we clipped off the little hanger thing on the end because it made the box just barely not fit) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Action card deck and Agenda deck each gets one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002TT3KW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seventeen of these for the race tokens and cards, one for the planet deck, and one for the objective deck, for a total of nineteen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002TT3KM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lastly, these six boxes are for the ships and the colored cards--the tech decks and promissory notes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2DREPO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Everything all together was around $50.
We cut the planet tray out of the rest of the tray with a box knife, and we put the strategy cards atop one of the stacks of planets. The victory track we ended up moving to the top of the race boxes so it would lay flat. Other than that, the books and stuff sit on top of everything, and the box closes up no problem. It's considerably heavier than before due to all the added plastic, of course, but it's looking like cleanup and set up will be much easier with this method because all anybody will need to grab is their color box and their race box. Hope this helps!
Edit: Ah also forgot to mention--we sleeved everything in these. They are thinner than the FFG ones and therefore fit in our plastic cases:
https://www.amazon.com/Mayday-Games-Sleeves-41x63mm-sleeves/dp/B06XZGN51N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511979051&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+card+sleeves
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bkpNDb7887SWH
Most of my suggestions are from other Reddit posts on here or BGG.
Do yourself a favor and buy an accordion/file folder for the map pieces, ideally with at least 13 pockets for map pieces A-M. That way you do not need to Tetris the pieces back in the box. Saves a lot of time.
I use this Plano box for commonly used small pieces.
And this one for the environment and monster holders.
Smaller monsters will fit in a tray like this one but not the larger mobs (or ones with ten of them), so you would either need to baggy those mobs anyway or cut space in the included foamcore packaging (there are some good examples in other threads).
Also YMMV, but we keep "trashed" cards in a separate ziploc bag rather than actually destroying them.
Edit Note: Using all of the methods described above, I can fit everything from the 1st edition in the box except the file folder.
I'd recommend giving it a regular spray of 303 Aerospace UV Protectant. Seems to do pretty well at keeping black plastic and trim from breaking down and getting ugly.
This is the same problem we had when learning how to setup the electrical system and I feel like rarely talked about. You need a fuse block like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469329101&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fuse+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
You run a wire from your charge controller (load +) to the + terminal on the fuse block and another to the - terminal. You can then wire all your 12v outlets and appliances (lighting, vent fan, etc) to that and mark on the cover what wire is what so you know when doing repair/maintenance
We'll be recording and posting a video about this in the near future because I feel like the little details in electrical are not talked about and require a lot of research for first timers. Feel free to ask more questions and we'll try to help! 😃😃
Edit: I forgot to add some info about the ground. With an off grid system like yours, it is usually a closed system which means you don't have a ground. Just positive and negative wires going to and from the battery/charge controller/fuse panel.
That would explain the fairly intense argument I saw Erin and Darin having at one point. Darin was great when ever I spoke with him btw! It was frustrating when Eric was an npc and didn't even know his own role/rules. He got tagged and was suppose to be stunned but kept moving, that doesn't inspire much confidence. I can understand the frustration by MSU players, now that you point that out, still some scary anger out there. I'll also not be attending NvZ Athens unless there is some changes coming.
I hate bitching without offering suggestions so here are some improvements I'd like to see be made next year.
Raise money, maybe charge $5 (I know people will freak about that). It's obvious cash could help in parts, better management in others.
We love our popup, it's a 2001 Flagstaff that is only a couple years old to us, but was well cared for by the previous owners. I live up north so keeping food out of it so mice aren't lured in in the winter is a big priority up here.
Really there isn't much to keeping them nice. If you are able to keep it stored out of the weather when you're not camping with it, that will really help it hold up longer. If you ever have to pack up while the canvas is damp or wet be sure to pop it back up to dry fully when you get home. I would also use something like 303 protectant to cover the solid vinyl portions of the tent if you have that material. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW
We pretty much never eat in ours and never cook in ours. It's so much easier to cook and eat outside and it keeps food from getting on cushions and prevents crumbs from luring in mice like I stated above.
It sounds like you plan on camping mostly with power based on your AC requirement, if you will be at more primitive sites every be sure you have a good battery. If you were serious about getting the most out of your battery you'd want to switch to LED lights and install dual 6v batteries.
http://popupportal.com is a useful resource.
I have this toy, its definitely one of my crown jewels/favorite out of my collection, OPs picture leaves a bit to be desired in the posing and environment department, but it is truly impressive. If you do decide to go after it it, there are two versions - the 2nd release with "sound" is the one you want. The first release is less detailed and had defective rubber. Even if you do have/get the newer release I highly recommend a yearly treatment of "303 aerospace protectant" on all the rubber parts of this, particularly the head/dome.
Seriously, Armor-All is the worst product.
Use this instead.
Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket - $8.99
Blue Sea Systems m-Series Battery Switch - $34.62
Smartlive LED String lights DC 12V 10m 33feet 100 LEDS,Warm White - $9.99
DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter - $17.89
ISWEES Dual USB Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Car Charger - $11.89
Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover - $37.24
BEP Digital Voltage Sensing Relay (DVSR) 12/24V - $78.46
BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports -$35.99
UB121000 12V AGM Battery 100AH - $125.21 + $34.69 Shipping = $159.90
When you are indoors a life jacket is a liability.
They make "Float Coats" with these built in or you can just wear those.
Oh I like shopping. Here are a few options in various sizes & price points
Earth Pak Waterproof Backpack: 35L / 55L Heavy Duty Roll-Top Closure with Easy Access Front-Zippered Pocket and Cushioned Padded Back Panel for Comfort; IPX8 Waterproof Phone Case Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6L35ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EUBnDb6TFKDTN
Chaos Ready | Waterproof Backpack - Durable Heavy Duty Dry Bag | W/Padded Shoulder Straps and 2 Mesh Side Pockets | Designed for Hiking, Travelling and Kayaking for Men and Women | 22L, Grey | https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BIN27SA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mVBnDbN9WQPA6
SealLine Pro Portage Pack 115-Liter Waterproof Expedition Backpack, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X37A66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MWBnDb8JDTN4W
Sea to Summit Hydraulic Dry Pack - Black 65L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRENIO0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.WBnDbPS6Y5JW
Oh fuck that. Disconnect your doorbell and never answer the door.
Wait. Scratch that. If your kids are already awake, next time she comes, blast her with one of these!.
Actually, I need to order myself one now too.
Eek that looks rough. I'd use a fine cloth and this stuffuse it sparingly and be gentle when cleaning the suit.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Link: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T4Q/
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|UK|amazon.co.uk|
|France|amazon.fr|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).
If you straighten the arm out (and keep it straight for a week) about once a month you should be good. Also try this stuff to preserve rubber skin and keep it moisturized:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
I use Kroil because I bought 2 cans when they were on sale...seems to work really well, no complaints. But same idea.
Also, I find having some silicone spray lubricant is handy to keep around. Whenever something is frictiony, I give it a spray. There might be something better than it, but it's worked well for me.
3rdly, I like to have a good plastic cleaner/conditioner. Keeps plastics looking pretty inside and out: http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398726066&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+conditioner
Lastly, I use Folex for all my carpet/upholstery cleaning needs. It is amazing...Price has been going up recently though:(. I hate that I'm only 28 and I've watched the price of gas/milk/eggs/paint/engine oil/etc more than quadruple in my short life...I don't know how I'm going to handle being 50-60-70...gonna complain so much.
Have you done the previous maintenance intervals? i.e. fluid flushes (transmission, coolant, brake fluid, spark plugs)? Recommend using DOT 5.1 brake fluid, and long life coolant/trans fluid.
Not sure on the civic, but if it uses a timing chain (which it probably does) it's probably due for an adjustment. If it uses a belt you need to change that ASAP. Honda lists their belt replacement at 7 years or 110k miles, whichever comes first.
Might be a good time to replace the battery before it leaves you stranded.
For other minor things, I would:
As a fellow Steeler fan in Texas (with a Terrible Towel near my office window), I sprayed a heavy coating of this on it. Seems to be holding up just fine.
Something like this for the leather works good, use it on my car periodically. Also something like this for the plastic trim, and you're all set.
I love the FJ because its after market and owners support is strong.
Look for a local outfitter, the family owned and ran type store. I have always had the best luck with them, and the customer service is untouchable. They go that extra mile to make sure you return.
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I had an older Jeep but it did just fine ..I got some rack pads and tied it down bow and stern as well as side to side.....these work really well for the front of the car.
If you want to go crazy, buy one of these and attach it to your PC. Itll automatically inflate if its submerged in water.
Electric pump user here - it's super noisy, but flows great, even with the major resistance of two huge filters in the way. Admittedly, I bought pretty much the cheapest pump possible, currently $30 on amazon.
Been using it for years, works great, self priming too which is super useful.
Photo of install including filters. First is a 1 micron sediment (I think, it's been a while) and second is a carbon matrix. First gets rid of any sorta "large" gunk, second removes bad tastes, chemicals, you name it. Same material as pitcher style water filters.
Also pinging /u/dcdcd101
Is a life preserver like this sufficient for flying over/around the Chesapeake Bay? I don't plan on flying over water that often, and it's not that much distance over water, so I'd probably be out of glide range of land for only short periods of time. I want to be prepared, but I'm not sure I need a bigger, over-the-shoulder style one. Thoughts, please?
Waterproof or has a rain cover?
Waterproof backpacks generally look like this.
But any pack can have a rain cover...
Empty out the tank, buy a portable bubbler ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EYULIS?cache=fc8ff06c39fd52a9dcebbbe26dce6de3&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1415168446&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) and put the fish in a home depot/Lowe's bucket of tank water (2 if any of your fish have attitude problems). Avoid feeding them for 2 days beforehand if possible and you should be good. I used this method to move my 29 across the country, a 2 day drive, with no losses. Pack the tank up last and unpack it first, 10g should not be too heavy but empty it anyways to avoid stressing the sealant. Also not sure if you use dechlorinator but if not you should get some before putting any new tap water in. Let me know if you have any questions, I am happy to share my experience
Edit: just saw your plants - I've seen people use newspaper to wrap them up but I just chucked mine in with the fish buckets and everything turned out fine. Good luck!
On Amazon, there are two :
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection
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And one with:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?
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Which one do you all prefer???
The only thing I can help with is floor mats. Get WeatherTech floor mats. They fit the best and hold a ton of water/mud/whatever. Use some 303 Protectant on them and they will look brand new for a very long time.
303 protectant is also excellent for your dash and any interior plastic. It's like sunscreen for your interior and won't dry out your dash like armor all or other petroleum based protectants. Also doesn't leave a super glossy finish like armor all, that just attracts dust right after you put it on.
Look into getting something like these and tie the knot around them instead.
This is always my suggestion for anyone asking the best way to have removable but effective tie down points.
Use these underneath the hood and hatch for quick non permanent tie down points. Sherpak 078115 Quick Loops (Pair) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JDZIBb99AK3JQ
And these so you don't have to worry about dealing with knots. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFZIBbHAJX6WB
It's nice but you should go big or go home.
Its an Intex Excursion 5. I got it off Amazon. Honestly I would highly recommend it. It fits in the trunk of my small car deflated and it's really durable. I've beat the hell out of it and not the a single leak yet. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491119674&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=intex+raft
This fence line is just shy of 90 feet and my setup works pretty well at that length. I used pretty small diameter pvc so it’s not much weight; I can’t imagine reinforcement would be needed for the watering— maybe for the vines depending. It’s not a raging torrent of water it basically is just a steady drip but it saturates pretty well when run in cycles and not run during the heat of the day.
My initial version of this setup was a single battery and small solar panel and it ran fine for a year or more (granted I’m in SoCal so we get a lot of sun)— I’ve since expanded a bit to a 4 battery setup and larger panel but just because I added two more pumps for covering other areas.
Here’s a picture of the control box of a basic single battery system with timer and a simple solar controller
https://i.imgur.com/JOfGqdp.jpg
Here’s some of the basic gear:
Water Storage
===========================
Current Water tank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H9WJMI/
(Although I’ve also used smaller/cheaper tanks like this for my vegetable garden, just might mean more refills depending on how often it’s run: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BFC5NIA/ )
If you’re looking to go super cheap, I honestly started my first setup with a couple modified 5 gallon plastic water bottles I stole from my office like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B27RAA/
Power
===========================
Current solar panel for a 4 battery setup:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFMBF3G
Previous panel for single battery system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PFGP0EA
Solar regulator (keeps you from blowing up the battery! The smaller panel comes free with one that works fine, I just liked this one better because it had more lights!): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L37KZI6/
Batteries, one is plenty for a single pump system:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S1RQ2S/
(obviously if you wanted to build a system on the cheap you could bypass the solar entirely and drop $20 on a second battery that you leave charging and just swap them back and forth every week or three, depending on how often/long you run the system)
Pump
===========================
Current Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BXBQGC/
Although I’ve also used cheaper ones like these for drip systems and they were fine:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07699RMVB
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WYMC492
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DLKT4OO
Misc
===========================
Timer (has like 16 stop/start memories which should be plenty for any configuration):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090MTLFO
If there is some interest next weekend I could draw up a complete wiring/assembly diagram and detailed parts list and make a separate post (and include all the sundries: wire, hose, clamps, filters, waterproof project box, couplings, drip heads, etc).
> A sincere and honest question: since the AT goes through black bear territory, would you carry a firearm on the AT (for those sections where it is legal)?
Probably not a firearm (but im from the UK so any firearm is alien) but i would seriously consider bear spray as its a light can that shouldn't affect the load.
At the very very least i'd carry a compressed air horn similar to this as it can be used to scare off wild animals, has no licensing need, and can be used to signal in an emergency. Like a laser pen its something that is incredibly useful for signalling that people don't think of.
As for maps/compass, everyone in the UK would take an OS map and compass (as well as gps if only via smartphone).
Considering how different a landscape can appear depending on weather conditions i'm just flabbergasted at the fact people in the US would even consider not taking a map.
I think you need one of these because being polite isn't working with him.
https://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Safety-Super-Sound-Horn/dp/B0000AXTVF/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481757575&sr=8-3&keywords=Air+horn
If you live in a place where road salt is used, take the car through a wash when it's above freezing and not showing during the winter. Make sure you choose the option that will spray off your underbody.
And NEVER take the thing through a regular car wash (a quick-service one that has machines or people touching it). This will damage your paint/glass as the dirt from every car before you gets smeared into your own. Touchless car washes are a much better choice and are pretty easy to find. They are not any more expensive.
I also recommend getting a bottle of Aerospace 303 and applying it to rubber/plastic surfaces that sit in direct sunlight. It helps preserve the materials from fading/cracking and adds a nice subtle sheen.
If you really want to go crazy, jump down the r/autodetailing rabbithole.
Never tried but I bet the clear plastic organizers for fishing lures would work great.
Edit: like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E39T4Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427844199&sr=8-2&keywords=Plano
The marine lab I've worked at/taken classes at is stocked up with these. They clip them to the sides of 5 gallon buckets. If they find anything interesting in the field, they throw it in the bucket and it's usually good until they get back. Good enough for them, good enough for me!
Also, OP, you live in Florida? Good news is, if a hurricane wipes your power, your fish won't freeze as long as it's not one of those weird out-of-season ones.
FUSE ALL THE THINGS!
You'll never go wrong putting more fuses in. Find what the item pulls, put in a fuse of just a touch over that amount. So if it pulls 13 amps of 12VDC, put in a 15A fuse in the positive (red) line going between the battery and that item. Do that for everything.
Get a fuse block. It makes it MUCH easier and looks prettier. :)
Absolutely worth it. I have an Engel fridge and I originally wasn't going to do solar. But I found that If I wanted to park for more than a day or if I didn't drive at least 50 miles everyday, the battery would slowly drain down to the cutoff point within a week. I installed one 100-watt panel and I can leave the van parked for as long as i want and the battery stays charged and I never have to turn off the fridge.
I just use a continuous-duty solenoid that connects the house and main batteries when the ignition is on for alternator charging. Nothing fancy. And a sunsaver charge controller for the solar here's a link list I made for a friend who installed a similar setup:
Solar Panel:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-STAR-100W-Polycrystalline-100-watt/dp/B00CAVMMMG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-1&keywords=grape+solar
Mounting Feet:
http://www.amazon.com/Grape-Solar-GS-ZB-Fab1-Zippity-Off-Grid/dp/B00MS8AKUM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1438626722&sr=8-5&keywords=grape+solar
Connectors:
http://www.amazon.com/Islandoffer-Pairs-Female-Solar-Connectors/dp/B00A8TRKJW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633077&sr=8-1&keywords=MC4+connectors
Charge Controller (don't skimp here and don't get an MPPT controller for just a panel or three):
http://www.amazon.com/Morningstar-SS-20L-12V-SunSaver-Charge-Controller/dp/B007NNHUHI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1438633118&sr=8-3&keywords=sunsaver
Battery:
I got the x2 Power from Batteries plus. it's not bad, but the battery i should have gotten is this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Lifeline-GPL-27T-AGM-Battery/dp/B004OA25PU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0P8HYGYQ24QVWZARFF4Z - which Batteries plus should be able to get, which means less or no shipping.
Fuse Block:
http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1438633797&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=blue+sea+fuse
Volt meter:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BZPNICG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Solenoid:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MX7US/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687442&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0050I94XG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0F2ZN9606RB53XSFR2EC
303 aerospace protectant restores the gloss. I used it on the black plastic on my 2018 xlt.
303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yXJxDbNNYKNME
This is what I use. It leaves a pleasant shine but is not overly greasy like armorall wipes. Seems to last forever too. Added benefit of protecting your dash from UV rays. It's a little expensive but a bottle will last you forever. You need like 4 or 5 squirts to do the whole dash.
303 Aerospace Protectant, I use it on everything
http://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW
Thats a Blue Sea fuse block.
I bought an oversized one in case I ever wanted to upgrade and add more devices.
It also has ground terminals so everything meets at the block rather than connecting to another location.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/
Get a fuse box like this then attach wires to cigarette adapters. The fuse box is connected directly to battery with another fuse between them.
EDIT: Mind you, I'm still trying to figure out what size fuse, circuit breaker goes between them LOL
EDIT #2: Also, from this fuse box, you directly connect LED lighting, your cig adapters and any other 12v source you may have. All the fuses are in one place instead of in-line. Makes it easy to diagnose problems as you can just pull the fuse to work on something. Make sure to label!
EDIT #3: Also.. get some these fuses. It's cheap and now you have a ton of extras!
You're most welcome! I bought the following:
4x100W Panels
Panel Mounting
Solar Panel Connectors
Tool Crimper
Assembly Tool
Panel Connectors
Power Information
CTEK Charger
CTEK SmartPass
200ah AMG Battery
Fuse Block
300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
LED Strip
Dometic 35 Fridge
I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.
I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \
EDIT: Adding info.
different but similar (this is what i used) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Deep cycle boat battery yo.
And a battery box with external hookups.
amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B001PTHKMG
Lasted me all Electric Forest 2016 and only lost 50% charge between 6 people.
There is a way (though not so easy) to haul kayaks on your JK - to address some of your concerns:
For easy bow line connection point - this might work
They mount under the hood and flip under the hood when not in use...
For the kayak/canoe to be on the roof - I've seen a configuration where:
There was a square tube mount that mounted directly the the sides of the windshield and the rear set of cross bars was actually a T rack that was mounted on the hitch...the windshield mount looked something like this, but I recall it bolted directly to the sides of the windshield in the factory holes...thinking more about it, I don't think it was a JK. The rear looked like this
As for seats soaking up mud...Its a Jeep! ;-)....maybe consider neoprene seat covers?
On my old car I used tow hooks. On my current vehicle, I use the tow hitch in back and there is a part of the grill I can loop around that includes the frame. I would not suggest just a piece of the body, definitely go for the frame where ever you can get to it.
Hood loops are a good and inexpensive option for the front. Use a bolt inside the hood then just pull them out or tuck them in when using or not.
Nice truck! I got myself a pair of these a while back so my straps weren't rubbing...
Seattle Sports 078000 Sherpak Hood Loops, Pair (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-1FBDb4Q6TRWF
Might be worth checking out in your case!
Hello fellow 'yaker! Greetings from the frozen plains of Iowa. One tip I have: I got a pair of hood tie downs like this: Seattle Sports Built USA Sherpa Hood Loops (Pair) - Under Hood Anchor Point for Tie Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyJxCb2WCCZXS
Find a bolt that goes into the body near the hood line. Then the straps stick between the hood and the body. I tuck them out of the way under the hood when not in use. Looks cleaner and doesn't rub on the paint at all when attached to the front of the kayaks. Happy trails ✌️
I use these for my kayaks, but also not concerned with them rubbing the paint on my 06. They just fold under the hood when not using them. https://www.amazon.com/Built-U-S-Sherpak-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS
Not what OP used, but theselook useful.
MOAR TACKLE
Canopy Grenades
S-Wavers
Whopper Ploppers
Phenix Abyss 808
A few G Loomis Rods in your price range
New PFD
Sort of impersonal, but anybody would love a Tackle Warehouse Gift Card.
If you know where he puts in, you could also buy a years worth of launching fees.
Footwear is going to depend on what exactly you are doing. On trawling/dredging trips, I have a pair of shrimper boots (I prefer the taller boots, which are better at keeping water out of them). For wading, I have two sets of wading boots. I have soft wade boots, which are easier to put on and sufficient for mud/sand. I also have harder soled wade boots that last longer when you are frequently on rocks or oysters shells. I've even used a pair of hiking boots, which honestly lasted the longest but looked less professional. I also know a couple of people that swear by neoprene boots like these.
I also recommend that you get a UV Buff. Partly it's because I hate being covered in sunscreen. But it also protects you from wind and cold.
Get a decent pair of polarized sunglasses. Pick a lens color that is suitable for the waters where you are working. (I think you are technically supposed to use blue/green for oceanic waters, but I've always preferred a brown lens)
UV longleeves are a decent temperature-regulating alternative to the Columbia button-downs (they are basically just under armour shirts). Also I recommend looking into some cheaper off-brands (Columbia is expensive!). But DO NOT get the Columbia-style button downs with velcro in place of buttons at the collars/sleeves.
I also recommend investing in an inflatable life jacket. They tend to get in the way less when you are trying to work out on the water.
I use an inflatable while fishing. Much more comfortable than a I or III.
Similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Onyx-Co2-Automatic-Vest-Universal-Adult/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405525205&sr=8-1&keywords=inflatable+life+vest
I have the auto-inflate disabled, but if I was a non-swimmer I would not disable it.
no don't buy that, instead buy this one, it'll the looks on your chest area
also pair it with a fedora, and girls will come begging you to take them on a date.
if you want to skip the date part, and be able to go straight to the sex. pair everything above with a nice neckbeard, and you're good to go.
Seems like a solid deal. I don't use my autospihon tip and also just bottle straight from the spigot, so I personally wouldn't bother with the deluxe. I'd also forget about the one step cleaner and just go with iodophor or star san. Stove top should be fine for 5 gal extract, especially if it's gas. You'll want a thermometer and I'd say 3 gal kettle sounds small. The kettle should be stainless.
I'd say next most important investment beyond the stuff in the kit plus thermometer and kettle is a wort chiller. They are a total rip off. Just buy some copper tubing (3/8" x 50') and wrap it around something with a 6-8 in diameter. You can hook it up to a faucet, but you'll waste a lot of water. It is better to use a pump. A lot of homebrewers seem to use submersible stuff for aquariums, but I think something like this is definitely superior for power and pressure drop by the dollar.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DLKT4OO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Good training will cover emergency scenarios like you describe. Basically, I can image imagine two scenarios involving water landing: engine out and loss of vehicle control. Here's how I would handle them.
For an engine out over water:
For loss of vehicle control over water:
PFD
No, they're inline fans. They only work went the software is running in the background. They are there to simulate wind speed. I only use the when in F1-ish position. An awesome gent over on the iRacing forums wrote the code for the fans. After another aswesome gent posted a way to run the fans via PC.
That's a valid personal choice.
However, I'm not sure the size would work.
This one maybe. It's 120 dB which is ok and might work but it's a bit bulky and even in a purse - how do you get to it quickly?
Consider Pepper Spray AND combine it with training. It's smaller, likely to be more effective than an air horn, you can have it in your hand as you walk etc. But the training is key.
I am NOT recommending these instructors or the course as I don't have experience with them but I wanted to provide some link/info for you to look into. In addition to the product, they have trainers in the NoVA area enter your zip code and find what works for you.
Air horn?
Oooo how about a 120 db whistle?
Packrafts from Supai Adventure Gear are pretty commonly used by people crossing the Colorado river inside the Grand Canyon. They are cheaper and lighter (but less capable in whitewater & less durable) than Alpacka rafts, and should work fine if the place where you cross the river is calm. You'll need some cheap paddles too, of course.
For a cheaper but heavy option, I have heard of people using inflatable boats by Sevylor, like this one. The advertised weight on Amazon is ~7 pounds, compared to ~1.5-2 pounds for the Supai rafts, but they also cost a lot less.
If it were me, I think I'd make my decision based on how much other weight I needed to carry. If you're already going to have heavy packs, maybe it's worth the money to get a much lighter and more packable raft...I own the Supai Matkat raft and personally think it's pretty perfect for things like you want to do, but it's definitely not cheap.
How far out is it? I used this inflatable boat as a dinghy last summer and it worked fine. Cheap and functional as long as the water isn't too rough and you're not super far out.
Woohoo!! We love, love, love the outdoors! <3
This raft is only $20 and would be a lot of fun to take with us camping (we love going to this Nat'l Park). It would be the perfect size for my Tiny Turtles to learn water and boat safety, and honestly, I'd have a blast playing around with it as well (esp. taking it down one of the many nearby rivers for something a bit more adventurous!)
Life Pro Tip: Carry a small fog horn when out and about. They are very effective at putting distance between you and an aggressive dog. This has saved my life. I have this one. Way better than pepperspray which can miss the target or float back at you.
Blast the dogs with a super loud air horn.
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Safety-Super-Sound-Horn/dp/B0000AXTVF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416098335&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=air+horn&amp;pebp=1416098337028
"bark" back.
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Safety-Super-Sound-Horn/dp/B0000AXTVF/
I have seen someone on YouTube recommend 303 Protectant Spray to repair scuffed dash on the Model 3.
Not sure if it would help and it's not cheap but might be worth looking into.
Cockpit premium is a great product. I use it every week or so on my dash and the rest of my interior as a quick wipedown product.
Also, 303 is only $12. What do you mean the price doubled? It's always been about $10 or so.
Modern auto leather manufacturing has progressed to the point where applying creams and oils is not necessary, and in fact inadvisable.
The leather is treated from the factory for durability and protection with something that will prevent it from absorbing the treatment. At best, you'll be conditioning your hands with anything you apply. At worst, your product will interact with the treatment on the leather and look or feel like crap.
If you use too much leather conditioner, over time, it could get into the seam, dissolve the adhesive holding the leather on the wheel, and leak a disgusting sticky mess all over the only thing you touch every time, all the time you're in the car.
If you have to put something on it, I'd say to just use a good water-based interior protectant like this. Always avoid alcohol-based treatments (armor-all) on your interior because they leach oils and moisture out of the surface, causing wrinkles/cracking and discoloration.
Links to materials:
About the container:
Using a fishing stowaway tackle box and some foam, it's really easy to make a neat little container to hold all your TTRPG stuff. You can stack more or less layers of foam inside divisions to make it easier to reach (the potions have 3 layers) or to make more room for bigger things (the d20s only have 1 layer). Half-divisions hold standard 1-inch base miniatures perfectly (the fairy lady is a metal mini printed off Hero Forge).
The tackle box used is one of the larger sizes Plano has to offer, but if you don't have as much stuff to stash, the Plano Prolatch 3600 or the Plano Prolatch 3500 are smaller options that also work great. These sizes are better for players who want a case like this or DMs with nothing else but a couple dice sets and some minis.
Keep in mind that there will be a lot of foam left over. The 2-3700 only required two or three sheets of foam to triple-stack the entire container, and I got myself a 10-pack. If you need to get rid of the extra foam, getting a couple 3500's for your players is a nice gift, considering they only run about $4 each. I got a four-pack of the 2-3700's since most of my players also DM, so hopefully that uses up the rest of the 10-pack of foam.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T4Q/ will hold all the tech squares, and can be passed around the table as needed.
This is what I use for pretty much all my FFG games. It doesn't look like the image on the page, if you scroll down to the first review (where they're storing 7 Wonders tokens in it), it looks like that. It's great for Legion because one of the wide sections without any dividers in it holds the movement tools and the four range ruler pieces, while all the tokens fit in the other two rows easily.
If you HAVE to evac and you really want to save him get one of these and a 5g bait bucket from a fishing store.
Make sure the bucket lid has screen or holes.
Make sure and put a layer of substrate from your tank and load some plants in there. Stock up on batteries. Don't leave him in direct sun.
Source: Been there done that. Hurricane Opal.
Basic, cheap, works for about a 5-gallon bucket. Requires D batteries
Marine Metal Aeratr Bubble Box 1.5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IYpXBbVKYXBGT
Better.... runs a 48qt cooler. D batteries, cigarette lighter adapter or 110. Really nice.
Frabill Ice Aqua-Life Cooler Modification Aeration Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OW7K46W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s0pXBbYYQDRQ5
Adjustable Air Pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CDR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PeybBbG3WZGVG
Tubing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbybBb2N07DFH
Also, a portable mini air pump (batteries required): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I put a fuse between the panels/charge controller and the charge controller/battery. I used this fuse holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THTBZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_cyhozb0Q7812D
Also, it may be worth while to pick up a fuse block that way there you can easily add additional 12v stuff without messing with the battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vChozbH1TGQ27
feel free to PM me/reply if you have any additional questions
Power and ground used to go directly from radio (under the rear seat), through the firewall gasket (above driver's left foot), across the engine bay, to the battery. With inline fuses about 6 inches from the battery.
Now I have it powered slightly different, but with the same problem. I reused that same line coming from the battery, but it does not go to my radio. It goes to a distribution block, and then to my radio (FT857d).
Would it be better for me to ground using one of the chair bolts or something instead of running ground to the negative battery post? Or both?
I don't mean to hijack OP's fresh install post with my busted install's issues :-P, perhaps I should make a post of my own.
There are cheaper places to buy it but this stuff is amazing on the seats. It’s slippery at first but if you keep buffing with microfiber cloth it works great. Removes all dirt and grime on my white seats.
ONR for the exterior.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=60145955190&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrKx8on96qpfRHIag_8D6tJ-sDAdT0AN2idoZQlnAnGnBIZe91MjLnkaAtmjEALw_wcB&amp;hvadid=274872144872&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9030034&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=15136836626326077358&amp;hvtargid=kwd-296127962609&amp;hydadcr=12191_10197806&amp;keywords=303+protectant&amp;qid=1563216687&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
A few more things:
Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are fun but not a requirement:
MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out
The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road
2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ
I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.
I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray
Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?
Thank you!
You're welcome. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
Look, if you want to get rid of it, while protecting your car at the same time, get some 303 Aerospace protectant it will restore finish and protect your panels from the sun. Great stuff.
I personally don't like hard-tops so I've never had to maintain them myself, but I hear this stuff works absolute miracles on rubber & fiberglass.
303 Aerospace Protectant
I use the 303 Aerospace spray on mine. They still look a little worn right where my heels rest, but otherwise look pretty new.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482181301&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=303+aerospace+protectant
A buddy of mine uses this he says its really good he applies it every few months or so https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
Thanks for that tip.
The 32oz. spray bottle is cheaper than the 16oz. on amazon.
303 is just what it's called.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XBCURW
http://amzn.com/B000XBCURW
That should treat your tonneau 3 or 4 times.
Please get yourself a proper container for those buses. At least one of them should be covered to avoid shorting.
Or get a all in one fuse box like this.
Next something looks wrong in your wiring. Is there a ground line and positive running to those switches?
Lastly please put a fuse between the bus and the battery. That way if those buses did short it will blow first.
Edit: I understand the ground going to the switch now. It looks like you have illuminated switches with need a ground.
Probably worth mentioning as there are double throw switches that would short out if someone wired it without understanding.
Same as above. I ran 16 Gauge wire with 30 amp fuses. I wired the fuses inline, but amazon has an addable fuse block that looks great for wiring everything back to.
Here's what I got!
typically I have a bus bar where I connect my batteries, my charge controllers and my loads. I have an overall fuse connected between the batteries and the bus.
Something like this is a good idea. Having a fuse for every load helps.
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bus+bar&amp;qid=1567973923&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).
https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496442293&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496442487&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12
Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496442659&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=4+awg+cable
For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.
https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496442827&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=12+gauge+wire
For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.
https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496442902&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=10+gauge+wire.
Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg
Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496443951&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496444024&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&amp;t=9s
https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496443370&amp;sr=1-2-catcorr&amp;keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin
You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.
Just go on amazon and look for fuse boxes. There are lots available for custom car applications, trailers, and motorcycles as well as marine applications (water-proof with high grade connections).
The mentioned VB block is 1. from VB and 2. Twice the price of the same block from somewhere like Summit.
There are a lot of options
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503421251&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=fuse+box
another smaller type:
https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-DC12V-Holder-Warning-Marine/dp/B01J3R8KS4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503421251&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=fuse+box
Safety and convenience. You want to turn off the circuit any time you do maintenance on it.
Yup. I use this 100A fuse block. Mine goes from the batteries to a 100A ANL fuse to a disconnect switch to the fuse block. So 100A protection for the total circuit, plus smaller fuses in the fuse block for the individual things I want to route power to.
I use this chart to decide what gauge wire I need for each run.
Modified boating stuff:
A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.
Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.
Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.
Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.
Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.
I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.
First, my needs:
Second, the components:
Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!
Sure.
Lots of people use this one which is nice because it's got all you need built in plus some fancier features out of the box.
What I use and was talking about previous is something like this and this
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1425953252&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=deep+cycle+battery
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
These have been awesome for me so far. It's ridiculous how useful something so simple can be.
Edit: Actually the pictures down show how these work. Here's a video that explains it better.
I have one about half way up on each side of the hood of my car (I have convenient bolts there) - I find that two tie downs at the front make it easier to see if anything is moving above my head as well as being more stable. I had an accident last year involving a failed rack and a 15 ft long yak, so I take the kind of care that someone who learned a lesson takes.
Also curious where you attach in the front. I got these, which I think will be perfect for my paddleboard...if it ever gets delivered.
https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hood+loops&qid=1557702207&s=gateway&sr=8-3
i use the goalpost thing in the back off my hitch receiver. and i use the foam blocks on the cab roof. it works well for me. i tie the front down using something like this it keeps everything tidy.
Check these out for more tie-down points:
Sherpak Hood Loops
Hood/Trunk Tie down Loops
Also, as others have said, you should look into a roof rack with stacker bars.
You will need to attach something to tie the line on the front of the vehicle with. Pop the hood, unbolt a bolt, and boot it back down but with the loop in it. You need a tie to the back and front of the yak as well as two along the roof.
Edit: these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ALDMS/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_post_o1_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Toyota Yaris hatchback owner here.
Inspired by an item I saw on Amazon, my DIY solution was to make a set of loops to slide into the rear hatch door. I did so using nothing more than some 1" nylon webbing, some old synthetic wine corks, and a sewing machine -- shown HERE ... 'zon version HERE.
As it happens, they fit perfectly in between the gap on the Yaris and are super secure. I would note that I use cam buckle straps, rather than ratchet straps, though. This ensures that I never over-tighten the rigging and damage either the car or kayak.
I made similar loops for under the hood of the car, affixed directly to the frame of the car using existing bolts, as a place to run the guyline from the front of the kayak, as to not damage the paint on the car (though looking at my picture, you might wonder why I care; horray sun damage!)
Get a yakima rail grab kit with 66" bars. The longer length will allow you to add things such as paddle mounts, strap stops, and even awnings. Plus more weight capacity and the boats will sit a little higher off the truck.
Quick loops are awesome for bow lines.
Sherpak Quick Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l4CuzbE696JZX
If you go the kayak route, you can save a bundle for your roof racks if you already have the rails on your vehicle.
These have great reviews on Amazon. I just bought them and used them twice with success. You can also throw in these loops for securing the bows and sterns to your vehicle.
Actually, you know what would be good? Get an air-horn. It's loud as shit and people will look at you every time you use it. It'll startle anybody messing with you and make everybody in earshot look directly at the two of you. Plus, if he takes it away from you, it won't hurt as much as a knife.
Two words: Air Horn.
http://www.amazon.com/Air-Horn-987587/dp/B002TR0JEO
That's when you take one of these suckers, blast it in his ear, and shout, "HOW DO YOU LIKE IT WHEN I CHANGE WHAT YOU'RE HEARING‽"
That's probably a fine life jacket, it'll work to keep you afloat. The difference between sailing and powerboating is that you probably don't intend to ever get in the water (tho you can for swimming and whatnot), so a jacket like that can get uncomfortable (big and bulky).
I use something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-Outdoor-Full-Throttle-Automatic/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=pd_sbs_sg_52 which automatically inflates if you hit the water. I don't have my exact brand handy, but this is the basic idea. Since it's usually deflated, it's much more comfy to wear for long days sailing.
For better or for worse, a lot of people don't wear life jackets while on board a boat on CO reservoirs, they just have them nearby. If you feel comfortable doing that, the one you linked will work just fine. If there's a storm or possibility of stiff winds, you should put it on stat!
I personally wear one at all times, which is why I wanted the auto-inflate one.
If I had a decked out hazmat suit, I feel like it could actually be pretty interesting. Unfortunately they're $1700 on Amazon.
Intex Excursion 5, 5-Person Inflatable Boat Set with Aluminum Oars and High Output Air Pump (Latest Model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m02hAbZRZ7K6F
Hurry!
add
http://www.amazon.com/Intex-Excursion-Boat-Set-Model/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396452772&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=boat
to your WL!
Before I get to the list, I'll mention that it may not seem like I'm super active, but I was away from the sub for a week or so, but if you look into my posts from before that, you'll see I'm pretty active. :)
1.) Something that is blue. - I mean, it's literally blue.
2.) Something that says summer. - What says summer better than SURFING!?
3.) Something food related that is unusual. - It's a Kit Kat. But it's GREEN TEA flavored!
4.) Something you want to gift to someone else, and tell me why. - I've been trying to get /u/quickwittedslowpoke to buy this manga because it's awesome, but she hasn't yet. I really want her to read it!
5.) A book I should read! I am an avid reader, so take your best shot and tell me why I need to read it! - Shameless shilling. My friend wrote this book and I want him to become famous! :D
6.) An item that is less than a dollar, including shipping... that is not jewelry, nail polish, and or hair related! - I don't really have a great reason for this, it was just on my mind because I had considered getting it as a gag gift for my uncle's birthday since his lucky number is 113 and that Pokemon is #113, but I didn't end up doing it since it wouldn't have arrived by his birthday (which already passed).
7.) Something related to dogs. - I have no idea what GSD is, sorry D:
8.) Something that is not useful, but so awesome you must have it. - It's literally just a statue. It doesn't do anything but look cute. But she's one of my favorite characters :D
9.) A movie everyone should watch at least once in their life. Why? - This is one of the best Anime films of all time. Even if you're not into anime, I still highly recommend it. It has won COUNTLESS awards already. It's a pretty big deal in the anime community. It's got a great plot and it's so sad that if you don't cry, you have no soul.
10.) Something that would be useful when the zombies attack. Explain. - Zombies can't swim. Foolproof plan. They'll eventually decay in the sun and all die within a few days, and you'll be out on your cool ass boat, safe from the chaos.
11.) Something that would have a profound impact on your life and help you to achieve your current goals. - I know it seems a little silly, but I'm trying to learn to cook better, and I just don't really have very good cooking tools...
12.) One of those pesky Add-On items. - Fun fact: I obsessively clean my ears. :I
13.) Something fandom related. - It's three fandoms in one! Super Smash Bros, Nintendo and Final Fantasy! :D
14.) Something ridiculously priced, more than $10,000. They exist, y’all. - Because it's eleven times what you asked :)
15.) Something with sharks or unicorns. - It was actually pretty decent.
16.) Something that smells wonderful. - At least I think it does. Needs lots of sugar though lol
17.) A toy that you wanted or had when you were a child that was the best ever, or (if it’s not on amazon) a toy that you think is pretty cool now - Does this count? I had the original back in the 80s/90s, and this is a new model with packed in games. But yeah, this shit was my childhood!
18.) Something that would be helpful for writers. - I mean, really, what're you gonna do with unsharpened pencils?
19.) Something related to your current obsession, whatever that may be. - The Precure anime franchise is one of my guilty pleasures, and this character, Cure Peace, is my favorite character in the series! :D
20.) Something that is just so random and weird that it makes you laugh. - Because why the fuck not?
You can find cheap inflatable rafts for around that price. They're unlikely to be super high quality, but depending on what you need it for should do the job.
You could get one meant for pressurizing plumbing, like they use in RVs, and then the pump would cut itself off. The extra sensor and switch for that will make it cost slightly more. Here is an example : https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Diaphragm-Pressure-Caravan-Marine/dp/B00DLKT4OO/ref=pd_sbs_200_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00DLKT4OO&amp;pd_rd_r=4A04Y6ZT6ZEB16T5CMB3&amp;pd_rd_w=sAONb&amp;pd_rd_wg=ea169&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4A04Y6ZT6ZEB16T5CMB3
That's the most "fire and forget" solution. Don't forget to connect the drain hose back to the water tank you use so if it gets to that part in the wash cycle it won't spray water everywhere.
This type of pump is how RV plumbing works - they have a water tank, a pump like this, and then tubing going to the various sinks and toilets in the RV. Some RVs do have washing machines. So a solution like this should work fine without issue. You can use a car battery for the 12 V or a 12 V battery charger or you might have a power brick for a USB hub or something that can supply 12 Volts and a sufficient amount of watts.
So the 5 gallon water tank lasts you all day?
So, let's shave that 4 hour run time down to a mere 1 hour, and you'll have plenty forever. Building it smaller (since you're only building ONE of these systems) doesn't save you a whole lot:
Loads per day: 32.5 Watt-hours.
Days without sun: 3
Hours of sun per day: 4
Panel needed: ~25 Watts. (You only need ~8 watts for your load, but I figure you'd want to recover from a cloudy day or three with only one day of full sun, so that's where the extra wattage comes in!)
Battery Storage Needed: ~100 Watt-hours; a 35 amp-hour, 12-volt battery would be fine, and keep you above 75% SoC most of the time. Long as the cart's outside and in the sun every day, the battery will last a long time!
Charge Controller: Cheap 10 amp PWM still works.
A specific shopping list because I'm waiting on a video to render before I can get on with my night:
Solar Panel:
https://www.amazon.com/Monocrystalline-Newpowa-Quality-Module-Marine/dp/B01M9B6RQI/
Charge Controller:
www.amazon.com/PowerEZ-Controller-Battery-Intelligent-Regulator/dp/B074TB6FS8/
Battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Powersonic-PS-12350NB-Battery-Nut-Bolt-Connector/dp/B0010AI3LM/
Water Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/Seaflo-Diaphragm-Pressure-Caravan-Marine/dp/B00DLKT4OO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522996286&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=SeaFlo+water+pump&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3EBZ5HHZPL73
Wire:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0YDC6K/
This isn't copper, it's CCA, but for this amount of current really... :/ You're talking only a few amps at only a few feet, so it should be fine. (I mean, you're gonna get max less than 2 amps from that panel down to the controller, so really, you're not going to be pushing anything.
You can also use landscaping wire, if your hardware store carries 12 AWG landscaping wire. It's good for random small solar projects, or cut apart an old 12 AWG extension cord. (Or even 14 AWG if it's pure copper.)
I plan to buy this water pump after seeing it in a video recently. If I can find the video I’ll link it. This water pump seems to fit exactly what I’m looking for.
*I can’t seem to find the video. Maybe someone else remembers... the person was dwelling in some type of small SUV/hatchback, the theme of the video was that it was an “experiment,” his test reservoir was a clear Tupperware container, and he was outputting to a kitchen sprayer.
The pump moves water until there is pressure on the line, then shuts off. Once you release the pressure (open faucet/sprayer) the pump will continue to move water until you once again pressurize the line (by closing the faucet/sprayer)
No problem on the questions. I'm glad you have some. This is the unit that I went with that I got off of Amazon. I went with 1.2 gallons per minute rather than something stronger because that will help me conserve water consumption and still have enough power to take a shower or other things.
Seaflo 12V DC 1.2 GPM 35 PSI 21-Series Diaphragm Water Pressure Pump for Caravan/RV/Boat/Marine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DLKT4OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zPgIzbFHZ75EA
While the disconnects do stop water on the female end, that is not the configuration that I set mine up with. The pump is a pressure switch pump that will only turn on the water pressure when you open the valve a.k.a. use your hose nozzle. The pump wires up with a positive and ground wire, so in my configuration, when I'm not using the pump I have it turned odd via a toggle switch. Let me know if that doesn't make sense.
I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.
I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.
Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife
Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/
Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard
RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv
Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.
I'm giving you US links just to let you know what I'm talking about but you shouldn't have any trouble finding them elsewhere.
Just wondering what bags do you guys snowboard with?
I been looking at these 2 i am planning to use it for all purpose.
chaos ready
FE Active
For riding in the cockpit with me, I use this one which has always worked well for me. For stowing things in the hatch, I use ny-sil Sea to Summit bags because they're more lightweight and pack together easier because they don't have a rubberized exterior.
https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Air-Horn-1-4/dp/B01NCSJGGC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550018861&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=air+horn&dpPl=1&dpID=41oJZy7nSTL&ref=plSrch
120 db
Both of which are still louder than the average car horn and this is definitely not the loudest air horn out there.
Congrats on proving yourself wrong.
Nah bringing the raft in case it rains
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Explorer-2-Person-Inflatable-French/dp/B000051ZHS
This is what Pmags used to cross the Colorado in Canyonlands.
Here ya go
Intex cheap ass boat. Get a crappy 2 person boat and load up your gear for a little paddle. Don't try and swim with your gear it's a recipe for disaster. I've used this particular boat as a joke on a 15 mile kayak trip. It was funny for the first 3 class 2 rapids, then it got old really fast. You can easily use this for a 700 m paddle. Don't swim it though it's going to be a bitch keeping your stuff dry and not drown.
Intex Explorer 200, 2-Person Inflatable Boat Set with French Oars and Mini Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000051ZHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_YWKxwbE2DH2GX
http://www.amazon.com/Falcon-Safety-Super-Sound-Horn/dp/B0000AXTVF
Forget the bell try something like this.
I've not heard of that - but would this be it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/303-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass-Leather/dp/B0004ELKC4
I'm in England so maybe it's a name we're not used to here?
Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).
Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.
If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.
As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.
I got the 3500 from amazon here: Plano 23500-00 Size Stowaway with Adjustable Dividers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E39T4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5jBTybCG28CN8
As for the 3600, I got it from my local Walmart in the fishing section. I checked amazon quickly and didn't spot the one I have on there. Sorry couldn't be more help!
I use a lowepro camera case large enough to hold the camera housing a box similar to this for all my parts. I have one large enough to hold all my junk, even my mini tripod and cords. When I'm lazy I'll just attach my suction cup mount.
edit link
I picked up this plano for it, fits all the workers + gears + citizens. I leave the goods in a baggie so I can just dump them on the map randomly, and left the buildings together with the round tracker tiles in a baggie. I should note I use the cardboard gears and citizens, I don't like the plain wooden ones for those.
My Scenario & Encounter cards are sleeved in a BCW Deckbox. I also have a Dual Deckbox that I can hold the 3 pre-built core decks in. Tokens are held in a Plano 3500
http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Metal-Bubble-Portable-Pump/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465186864&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aerator
there are cheap battery powered ones
This is what I'm getting for the fuse panel. Assuming its the same because it has amazing reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=28SKLWNIL5EQ8&amp;coliid=I2HR7EF5SBDL63&amp;psc=1
I'll check out the buss bar, thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498570433&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block
It’s made by blue sea systems. And they make a ton of different sizes.
Blue Sea Systems 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PR2QCbPH5WP6S
Yes, I meant one of these...12v distribution panel
If you do decide to go with an auxiliary panel, these have been working very well on my Jeep project and I wouldn't hesitate to use them on customer vehicles. I've got one routing key-on power and another hot at all times. They're surprisingly well built for being aftermarket.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000THQ0CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Look into 303 Aerospace to protect the synthetic leather and vinyl dashboard.
I don't have shiny bikes, I have bikes that get caked in mud at a freshly watered motocross track and then left in the garage for a week. S100 gets them spotless. To keep the plastics in good shape I'll occasionally hit them with some 303 Aerospace Protectant.
Far from the dirtiest I've had a bike, but here's before and after with S100 and an electric pressure washer on a low setting. A high pressure nozzle on a garden hose would do just as well.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW
Use this on any plastic or rubber on the car.
This is what I use. It's a little pricy but it's worth every penny in my opinion.
http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396471973&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aerospace+303
Oh I see, I thought you meant exterior stripping. I apologize. Here is the link for 303. I use the gallon and distribute in spray bottles but for personal use that spray bottle will last quite some time.
Nice! May keep an eye on them to make sure they don't start fading. I know some of the micro-suede fabrics like to do that. I actually sprayed down (lightly) my alcantara to help prevent fading with this stuff
For leather, regular 303 Aerospace Protectant actually works great. I've gotten numerous comments about how well my leather has held up, and I attribute it to this.
I also do a yearly deep clean, and somewhat regularly wipe down with plain water. It may not be a "sealant", but it lasts quite a long time.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW
Would this be a good choice?
303 is a UV protection product for use on marine equipment and aircraft. Regularly coating inflatables with it after periods of heavy use is a good way to prolong the life of the product.
I've had my '12 for 3 years now. No issues at all, in Chicago. Something to reduce the chance of the dash cracking I use 303 sun protectant, it can be applied to almost any interior surface. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
Aside from the CSC failure which is shared between the 370Z/G37 and 350(?), it's common to do a csc delete, multiple companies make the kit.
Standard 303 protectant is on right now, but the price kinda blows.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_94d38b6d?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=13887280011&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C
Also this Bissel carpet cleaner, which Ive seen other users mention they have and like it for extraction.
https://www.amazon.com/Bissell-3624-SpotClean-Professional-Portable/dp/B008DBRFBK/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_851dfabf?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=13887280011&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C
Is your bedliner exposed to the sun? If so I would recommend a UV resistant product for it.
Such as 303 Aerospace. This can be bought in a very large volume, from Amazon, as well.
Looking good! Nice work! Now that you've got them nice and clean be sure to give them a generous coat of protectant. I have been extremely pleased with 303 UV Protectant. It will not only give the pads a great shine, but it also will protect them from UV and hinder future mildew growth.
Does amazon ship to you?
Linky
The price here shows me $23. Edit: nvm I see it's 32 oz vs. 16 oz.
Any idea how that compares to something like 303 Aerospace? That's my go to for any trim/vinyl.
This is one product I’d use:
303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xanSDbVC3S0F5
Heard it works well on car interiors in addition to tonneau covers for trucks.
UV exposure is what really impacted the fabric more than anything. I’ve got a different product I use on the rainfly for both my tent and hammock made by nikwax.
I use Aerospace 303 . I've seen some stores carry them but I order mine online.
I use it for my interior leather and plastic bits with Microfiber towels and exterior with a few sprays into the wash bucket. I also apply on my door/window seals to prevent doors from freezing up during the winter.
I've heard some stories of this being true so take it with a grain of salt. I don't live in a city where it will freeze up too often, but I apply it during the winter anyways to just be safe.
what is the difference between that one and this 303 ?
Pretty sure they mean this (or something like it).
I heard good things about Blue Sea Systems. Plan on using that when I start adding lights
The red cable going to the bottom of each is probably the feed. There's a ground bus at the top of these blocks that OP isn't using, presumably in favor of those giant bus bars.
Edit: pretty sure they're these, and you can see the feed lug at the bottom in the "open" pictures. :)
Nice van!
Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.
Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY
This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)
Other items I used...
I used a Blue Seas ST Fuse block
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC?pc_redir=1404828766&amp;robot_redir=1
look into the BlueSea PDC - like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have it in my JK under the hood, with a 100 amp circuit breaker between it and the battery. I ran battery cables and put ends on them. I wouldn't suggest Jumper cables as they aren't designed for continuous usage. I would recommend 2 gauge cables. Google Blue Sea and Jeep and there are lots of pics and descriptions of options.
Yeah, that thing looks like a fire waiting to happen..
Someone else linked this which has fuses:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469329101&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=fuse+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Wn79biAwL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
If they are not labeled, who knows. Wiring diagram I dont think will help much, older boats tend to have people changing things all around. Unless you mean a wiring diagram for the motor?
Get a fuse block and start labeling everything and make things neat! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/
You're not going to run that many amps through the DC fuse block... things with smalllish loads go here... (LEDs, Fan, water pump... around 30 amps combined, and maybe about 20 max for a single device). Large devices like the inverter get attached directly to the battery with their own dedicated high cap fuse. So I have a 30A fuse at the POS side of my fuse block, so everything total shouldn't exceed 30A for me. Again, here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
The yeti is nice, i have never used one. Some say it is overpriced, but you have to admit that it is a nice simple all in one thing - battery, usb,300 watt pure sine wave inverter, and can charge from 120 vac,12vdc,or solar.
It is what it is, 33Ah battery so if that is not enough then what? If you are going to charge from 12 (like your car) you will need hours and hours. Now if you are willing to put an isolator on you van/car? you could charge faster than a cigarette lighter socket but then you are adding complexity for just using occasionally. So if you can live with the capacity then it's a neat package.
The prices for the big yeti are over $1.4K ? I think that is 100Ah of battery. I think that would get you through a weekend with enough spare energy as to not have to ration. idk And this would just be charged at home or if you find 120vac while you are away.
I will think it over more as it is late for me. But what I have done before is to use a battery box and a separate inverter. The box and battery(battery is bad now) I owned from the trolling motor set up for my canoe. It is not a clean set up but can be used in pieces as you like. So if you have separate pieces and your battery runs low you just hook up the inverter to the van, and don't run out of fun times.
here are some amazon links - non referrals so take a look and seeif you get what I mean.
https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG Nice thing here is it will hold any battery up to group 24 or 27
https://www.amazon.com/VMAXMB127-Battery-Replacement-Caddy-Golf/dp/B00BDV7OO0 I just picked a 100Ah battery at random
https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2601-Elite-400W-Inverter/dp/B007Y4BL1C
https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Maintainer-Automobile-Batteries-maintain/dp/B00IZV91Q0/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00IZV91Q0&amp;pd_rd_r=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905&amp;pd_rd_w=uLdL1&amp;pd_rd_wg=0Vigf&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905 Any GOOD battery charger will do.
So like $500, but you now own a nice box, battery, charger, and inverter. So play with the idea and see if it would fit your style. Just an option.
Here is what some guy did with $1000 and you could scale this to your needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw
Sorry for the mess of a post.
Good luck and have fun. Be sure to let the sub know what you come up with.
My setup gets me all week at Boy Scout summer camp and at the end of the week I have 50% charge left.
I got this Minnkota marine box as it has a battery meter and 2 12v outlets so I can also charge my cell phone overnight.
MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1dFGAbAVBTZ2S
I then put this battery in the box - I got mine cheaper but sure you can find something similar.
Optima Batteries 8027-127 D27M BlueTop Starting and Deep Cycle Marine Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UFXHQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dgFGAbQTVN7N5
I use this charger to keep it charged.
Stanley BC1509 15 Amp Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001U04MSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WhFGAbSQBHCC5
My list would look something like this...
Kenwood TS-480SAT - $849.95
Satisfies the portable requirement without the QRP-ness. Easily connects to your computer for digital modes, negating the need to purchase a Signalink.
Antennas are a tricky subject. I'd steer clear of the 40m hamstick, it's going to be quite inefficient and 40m isn't a particularly great daytime band, I'd be looking at 20m if you plan on doing most of your hamming during the daylit hours. Maybe get something like an end fed matchbox wire or OCF dipole, easy to deploy, transport, and tune across multiple bands with a built in rig tuner. A full size MFJ 20m vertical telescoping whip is also a good choice and is going to be a great deal more efficient than a 40m hamstick. Don't skimp here, buy the most antenna you can afford within your setup limitations.
Cost - Variable ~$40 - $100+.
What size of battery are you looking for? A small SLA type to transport in a backpack for hiking for maybe an hour or two of operation, or a big automotive type battery to transport to an operation site in a vehicle and last all day? Every single car type battery sold in this country is made by 1 of 3 companies -Delphi, Exide and Johnson Controls, just with a different retailers label slapped on it, so buy the cheapest deep cycle battery you can find that meets your size and amp hour requirements. Costco is a great choice if you have a membership or Wal-Mart because they cycle through their inventory quickly and you won't be buying a battery that's been sitting on a shelf for a year.
A nice big group 31 battery will run you ~ $100. Cheaper if you go smaller.
I'd recommend a nice battery box like this to put it in. - $50
A decent battery charger will set you back about $40. Maybe a bit cheaper if you shop around a bit. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they actually have a pretty good battery charger that they put on sale frequently for 25 bucks or so.
We're up to $1040 without antenna. That leaves you $250 to play with for an antenna and any other incidentals like coax cable, connectors, antenna mounts and the like.
Also, unless you plan on running off the battery all the time, you haven't budgeted for a power supply for fixed station operation. A 100W rig will need a 20A power supply and that will set you back about $100 for something that isn't trash.
Do you already have a power supply for fixed operation? If no, you'll be running off the battery all the time. A 20A power supply that isn't garbage will set you back about $100.
Are you really set on solar? Depends on how much you drive but you maybe better off with an alternator connection. What type of fan are you using? You maybe able to go a little smaller than 100 amp hrs. That is a lot for just a laptop/phone/electronics lights.
A good example of how simple 12V can be is this box
https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496277131&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=battery+box+27
It has a few inline breakers (10 amp and 60 amp) in the box for the 12V outlets.
I have a Marine deep cycle battery, battery case and an inverter to work from my laptop if I have to while camping or remote with no electricity. If that ends up being it’s only use I could see it lasting a few weeks or more.
Not so handy to lug around as they are heavy but still an option I guess.
Edit: This is the exact case I have. It’s got cigarette lighter inlet, a few USB inputs and the +/- posts.
It didn't post the link. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PTHKMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1425953252&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&amp;keywords=deep+cycle+battery
Get yourself some hood loops and make the world a better place for everyone.
Hell yeah! I'm going to pick up a set of these cheaper ones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MUSFDb5W4R8MX
Thanks for the suggestion!
Yes as long as your ropes and straps are tied off correctly. I recommend these straps in con junction with that kit.
Built U.S.A. Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRUMzbPXKMCJD
I use these for bow and stern lines and I have two of these bolted down under the hood of my truck (one on each side) as you can see here. I just direct hook in the back of the truck bed.
Just remember that they are just there to hold the boat in place while braking or accelerating, they are also good for keeping the boat in place during wind. That being said, don't crank them down as you can damage the boat.
As far as dragging your boat I don't recommend dragging it more than you have to. I will drag mine up onto the beach or on grass a bit to move it but if I am transporting it more than a few feet I pick it up.
Hood loops for canoes are nice and really cheap
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ALDMS?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
> but I don't want to have to tie down the front (like you have on your fenders) or the rears,
It's actually under the hood and under the trunk. There is nowhere on the frame of my wife's car to attach something. To be honest, it didn't feel necessary to do the front and back because the mount held it in place very well. But, I feel like it's a backup in case the mount comes off the rack itself.
I use these under my hood and in my back hatch: https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-078115-Quick-Loops-Pair/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486403622&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hood+loops
And I carry an 18-foot aluminum canoe on foam blocks just fine.
I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.
I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.
Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.
Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.
Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.
It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.
This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.
I agree with what seamus1992 said....just want to add....
Use pool noodles or some kind of pads on your roof rack. Two straps sideways, through your roof rack and one from and back. I use these for the front.
Don't forget to tie down the front! I bought a pair of these from the suggestion of someone from the mazda3revolution forums. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024AVPO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also wrapped the rope in some microfiber (where it touches the paint) to protect the car, but base don the length of the canoe, you won't need to worry about that.
> "EXCUSE ME, BUT I'M ON THE PHONE"
You know its bad when you begin to consider it
There's also those adopt/buy/name a star things that were oh so popular once upon a time.
My thought for loud things would be an air horn. It costs 1 cent apparently? Well you get raped on shipping, but $5 isn't horrible.
Or those cheering cow bells, the ones you hear at the Winter Olympics.
Wouldn't it be better to carry an airhorn?
http://www.amazon.com/Air-Horn-987587/dp/B002TR0JEO
Not sure if you're looking for this type but maybe a canister one similar to this canister pfd I'm in AUS so cant recommend brands/shops etc, but i love mine, its so light and i don't notice it at all.
Maybe get something like this :
http://www.amazon.com/Onyx-Co2-Automatic-Vest-Universal-Adult/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422675595&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=automatic+inflatable+life+jacket
That way there is some piece of mind should something happen and you wind up in the water, you're safe?
I have one that I really only wear when I am solo on the boat. Hey, ya never know. It's not the things you're expecting to happen that happen, be safe out there.
be safe!
A Bearcat costs about 300K$ and a hazmat suit cost's under 2000$. What you rather your town have?
This maybe?
Found a couple sites that sell them.
http://www.pksafety.com/clothing/hazmatsuits.html
https://www.amazon.com/Demron-Full-Bodysuit-Hazmat-Suits/dp/B007Z42GCY
You were probably expecting this, but I never watch CDC anyway, I don't think anything about this would be it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_F4R.wbKVYG57Z you could even interpret it as a small detail at worst.
You can do a combo like this for pretty close to your budget. The boat itself is surprisingly resilient, collapses down to a (heavy) bag for your apartment. Motor mounts on securely. Plan for some occasional vinyl repairs, and you have to deal with a battery and charging, but it'll putt you around until you want to get into something more permanent. I use this as a dinghy for a powerboat and it works great. I added a small solar panel ($75) and converter unit ($15) so it charges the battery when it's parked for a while.
&#x200B;
Intex Excursion 5
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Excursion-5-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536084088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=intex+boat&psc=1
&#x200B;
Intex electric trolling motor
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Trolling-Motor-Inflatable-Boats/dp/B005QIB7K8/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084206&sr=1-5&keywords=intex+trolling+motor
&#x200B;
Motor mount
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Motor-Mount-inflatable-Boats/dp/B000NNM4BW/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084263&sr=1-5&keywords=Intex+Motor+Mount+Kit+inflatable+Boats
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Timer and pump or [valve] (http://www.amazon.com/12V-Solenoid-Valve-3-4/dp/B007R9U9BM/).
I've used this Seaflo 12v pump for two years with no problems. It's about $30.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DLKT4OO/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
https://www.amazon.com/M-16-Belt-Pack/dp/B013RLI9XS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=onyx+m16&amp;qid=1554639820&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
Also, any opinion on this instead? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166S2PA2?psc=1
Hello everyone,
First time spray booth building and I have some questions. I heard using a Bilge fan will reduce the chance of catching fire when spraying lacquer. This is the model that I am looking at. Does anyone have any experience with using a Bilge fan and can let me know if it is too loud?
Thank you
Just to throw another option out there - I use 12v bilge blower fans (similar to: SEAFLO 4" In-Line Marine Bilge Air Blower 12V 270 CFM Quiet Boat White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166S2PA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SscDCbTQMY3Y9). If you go with a 4" you can just use dryer vent to get it outside. You can also put a motor adjustment switch on it (12V Motor Speed Controller, DROK DC Motor Driver Board for Brush Motor 7V-60V 20A 420W PWM Control 12V 24V 36V 48V Regulator Cooling Fans Dimmer Governor Pulse Width Modulator with Adjust Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVGGWC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vvcDCbXK0FE4Z). These move a lot of air, which could help depending on the size of your run, etc.
something like this? Yes.
https://www.amazon.com/Chaos-Ready-Waterproof-Backpack-Travelling/dp/B01BIN27SA
I used to have these issues when inline speedskating and walkers taking up the entire bike path... Then I got on of these https://www.amazon.com/Shoreline-Marine-Air-Horn-1-4/dp/B01NCSJGGC that fit in my palm with ease. A simple blast was sufficient to get them to jump rather quickly out of the way. If they get in your face, it's pretty easy to just toot it again saying "what's that, I can't hear you!" ;*)
Also I got pretty good at mimicking a police siren with my voice which also clears the path pretty well.
Just gonna drop this here. Hopefully it lands in your mail bag.
Shoreline Marine Air Horn, 1.4 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCSJGGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xexDCbZMZ8VE2
Of course you lash out. It is like getting stung by a wasp. Or bite your lip. That shit hurts.
If you want to explain it and ask for help, I suggest this.
Letter to Friends, Family, and Coworkers
https://reddit.com/r/misophonia/comments/c2q1wp/letter_to_friends_family_and_coworkers/
If you want to train her with revenge, I suggest this
Shoreline Marine Air Horn Can and Blow Horn, 1.4 ounce
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCSJGGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_WZSLDb57JB47S
Carry it on your belt. Empty the entire can next time. (wear earplugs though). You are allowed to do whatever you want in your own house.
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Eco-Shoreline-Marine-Horn/dp/B01NCSJGGC
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Explorer-2-Person-Inflatable-French/dp/B000051ZHS/ref=sr_1_7?s=boating-water-sports&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465784581&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=inflatable+boat
You might consider a handheld compressed air horn instead of the mace. You can fly with it.
And experience tells me making noise like this is going to deter just about anything you'll find in the Big Blue Room.
Can we get more threads like this please
Get a dozen bait bucket aerators like this one, place in bathtub, fill with dishsoap, run hot water.
ew dude.
Let me introduce you to the solution to cracked dashes.
http://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW
I forgot to answer your actual question.
No, using PC fans is simply not suitable for this application. There just isn't enough surface area on the fan blades to create the amount of static pressure required to effectively pull enough air through a good carbon filter. If you want to go small and cheap, maybe try a smaller filter like a 4", coupled with an inline bilge blower.
I work for a manufacturer and we have a MAP policey we enforce. Amazon stocks and sells our product so they must abide by our MAP prices. That includes their sellers.
If we see someone trying to sell large quantities of our stuff below MAP we send a notice like this. If we get no response we usually have Amazon or eBay pull it down.
It sucks it has to be that way but Chinese knock offs just destroy legitimate businesses.
I'd suggest changing the price or selling it auction style on eBay. I would not risk getting a ban over it.
EDIT. OK, guys. I wasn't trying to start a riot I was just trying to give some insight. If you think I'm full of shit I could care less. If you want to test my theory, list 10+ units in new condition for 5% less than the going price for these products. No one will bother you if you list 1, only if its about 10 or more.
Item #1
Item #2
Item #3