Best body repair & restoration adhesives according to redditors
We found 408 Reddit comments discussing the best body repair & restoration adhesives. We ranked the 141 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Better than expanding foam, just use plumbers putty. Can be found for $1-$2 at hardware stores. or a little more expensive on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-31177-Stain-Free-Putty/dp/B006E356S8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542947322&sr=8-3&keywords=plumber%27s+putty
if you really want foam:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-TITEFOAM-Insulating-Sealant-1988753/dp/B01N21KQ4I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1542947298&sr=8-7&keywords=expanding+foam
http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458670860&sr=8-6&keywords=3m+adhesive+spray
Maybe even lay down a thin layer of foam on the table under the felt.
Yes! But I fixed mine permanently with a little application of Permatex 81158 adhesive sealant silicone (just a few squirts into the weather seal, evenly spaced, on each side of the truck).$3 from Amazon
Thanks, useful to know specifically where the failure happened.
Anyone using gear like this: Use LockTite Threadlocker or something similar on all threaded parts meant to stay put!
permanently, or just a hella long time
Howdy, new /r/HappyBuckmarkOwners member!
Some Buckmark pointers:
If you're feeling adventurous:
I actually meant purple. I use it for really small stuff, like RC cars and such. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-555339-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0
Screw is probably close to stripped. Throw some Loctite on the threads and tighten it back up. The blue loctite is semi-permanent, meaning you can remove it in the future if you choose.
Amazon.ca used to have it for $4.99... Maybe their supplier jacked up the prices.
Even at Canadian Tire, it's significantly higher than the US$2.65 price on Amazon.com.
If the hinge is unglued, it's fixable with J-B Weld Plastic Bonder. If the screen is undamaged, it can be glued or mounted back. If it is damaged, laptop screen replacements aren't too expensive.
I had to repair an Acer Nitro 5 laptop using J-B Weld. The laptop was closed and was accidentally knocked off a table. The hinge cracked and separated from the screen and ripped out a screw holding the screen. Luckily the screen was fine. After using J-B Weld it was stronger than the surrounding plastic. The key is to let it cure for at least 24 hours. Clean the surfaces, removing any oils. Clamp everything together to ensure good bonding.
I would suggest against red if OP ever wants to be able to open it up for any reason later.
Purple, low strength is all you need.
Loctite 555339 222 Purple Low Strength Thread Locker Tube, 6-milliliter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KKTT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kthJBbJMXE9NM
time to trouble shoot!
did the metal bend? use a stiffer metal like steel if you used aluminum.
did the screws come loose? threads are naturally loose to allow for them to be screwed in, use a thread filler
did the screws actually bend? your shear stress is too high, increase the area the force is distributed over by using more screws.
Did any metal get scraped off at any point? Same idea as above, look to increase the surface area between any surfaces where material was used.
we can rebuilt it! WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY.
I’d also suggest getting some blue threadlocker . This stuff is great and really stops things from coming undone unless intentionally unscrewed. Make sure to avoid red threadlocker, as it’s way too good. The red stuff pretty much ensures that once it’s screwed on it will never come off. The blue is less permanent. Just apply a little bit to the threading and you’re good to go!
Use this
Not sure I can tell exactly where your leak is from the photos, but I would recommend a weld if you have access or JB Weld (an easy epoxy) if you don't. The JB Weld might be the easiest option anyway. I have used on boats and my automotive engines many times.
J-B Weld 8272 MarineWeld Marine Epoxy - 2 oz
http://amzn.com/B000KKPFFA
You should be able to buy a spray can of fabric/upholstery adhesive, spray it down and put it back in place. I've done that with the material on my Evo, holding up well 8 months later.
For the edge, use a credit card to tuck the material into the crevice.
For a nice install, get a 3M primer 94 pen
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS
I don't know where to just get one. Kind of a bummer to spend an additional $5 to install something correctly.
Hey guys,
You may have seen this post on /r/overwatch yesterday. I 3D printed this mask on my Monoprice Maker Select.
Used PLA, and basic settings in Cura (200/50 temp).
This is my recommended guide to finishing a 3D printed Prop for any one curious:
Rustoleum Filler Primer - Do 2 or 3 layers of this. Maybe more, you'll know if you need a layer or more. Do some sanding between layers.
I hate regular bondo, so I use Bondo Spot putty, this is what I used to fix everything else. Round out edges, add detail, and to smooth out. Lots and lots of sanding. I used several layers of Bondo spot putty, the trick is to lay it on thin, and do many layers. Don't get impatient and slather it on.
mask after one layer of primer & getting ready for paint
before visor & side view
Try some low strength threadlocker (purple) or maybe a small wrap of plumbers tape
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38653-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526059844&sr=1-1&keywords=threadlocker+purple
Take your headlight out, remove bulbs/wires/screws, bake it in the oven for 20mins at 200degrees, pull it apart, and reseal.
Then place it back in the oven, same temp, for 10 minutes to warm it up and squeeze the two pieces nice and tight.
I recently painted the chrome trim of my headlights and the process wasn't hard. I used this black silicone sealant to make sure water stayed out.
The 0801 was discontinued as of June 1, so they should be starting to hit clearance prices. Kershawguy has it for $139 w/ free shipping and no sales tax. It is a great design. I've actually ended up with multiple of the different variants of this, but haven't had one of the "plain" ones. Maybe now is an opportune time to pick one up. ;)
As for the pivot coming loose, a bottle of threadlocker runs about $5 online or at your local hardware store. If you plan to be tinkering with your knives at some point, it's definitely worth picking one of these up. A single bottle will last you quite a long time.
Here's some of the things that are good to have on hand. A lot of it is newer since I'm replacing things I did not care for. Most, if not all, can be found on Amazon. Its a little list but hardly scratches the surface of crap that you can accumulate.
For shooting:
Cleaning:
Everything else:
Get Loctite, put a little on the screw and screw it back in.
This is medium strength, it should be strong enough, but they do have heavy duty if you want to go all out. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-506166-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=loctite&qid=1554408114&s=gateway&sr=8-6
Ignore all the "purist hipsters" here, and do what you like
>How hard is it to apply?
Depending on which one you get. I would highly recommend the 3m Dinoc, because it has some sort of air channels that make it super easy to iron out bubbles. The regular stuff works also, but its not as easy to work with.
Overall vinyl is labor intensive, but not that hard to apply. I would order 2 sheets just in case you mess one up, and make sure they are larger than your hood with about 2 inch edge of extra material per side (in case you misalign, you want to have extra material). Best part is that its non-permanent, you can peel it off if you don't like it.
Things you need:
>What are the basic steps?
For the size of your hood, you definitely need a couple of people to help you. They need to hold the vinyl without the backing tape over the hood while you work from the edge and inside out smoothing out the bubbles
You probablty want to have the hood off, makes your life easier, but you can manage with it on the car. If you ordered a sheet significantly bigger than your hood, you want to trim it to that 2 inch spec while the backing tape is still on.
The way you do it is first, you apply the wrapcut tape to the underside of your hood, about a quarter inch from the edge - you definitely want to wrap the vinyl around all edges to the underside, because otherwise it will peel in hot weather. Then, with your friends holding the vinyl, start from the front, and work inside out to apply it. If you have any crevises in your hood, you definitely want to apply primer there.
Get it all on except the edges. For the edges, apply the primer to an edge, and to the underside near the wrapcut tape. Heat the vinyl gently, and wrap it around the edge to the underside. When you have all 4 edges, wait about an hour for the glue to stick, then peel the wrapcut tape to get a clean edge. Trim anything you don't like with xacto knives.
Youtube is your friend for specifics
>Will it last?
If you get the edges and crevises correctly, absolutely. Otherwise it will peel. The vinyl is a pretty robust material, it can handle washes and heat. If you have little dents, what may happen is that in super hot weather you will get a small flat bubble that forms if the air heats up in that void enough, however, you can just take a needle and deflate it.
>Is it worth it?
All up to you. Its not glossy, but it does look like carbon fiber.
>Is it fine to get some for cheap on eBay?
The cheap CF vinyl is shit. It won't stick as well, and will probably tear. If you are gonna do it, do it right with the 3m stuff.
Try threadlocker
https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2?sa-no-redirect=1
It says medium strength, "for when disassembly is common"
So I was doin it right then
This stuff works great: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063X38M/
recommended by homebrewfinds, I've done several kegs with it and had no problems. Just follow the package directions, and it's set in probably 15-30 mins I think.
oh my! Thank you for the detailed info and for providing technical information. For the lags, i'm still coming familiar with the vocabulary here- would that be a product like the SDW EWP-Ply Screw?
Some of that is higher level than im potentially capable of this summer I think, so I'll start with the spirals.
​
For the locktite, I presume we'd want to use a product like this
​
Thank you again for the suggestions!
I'd recommend trying Vibratite. I use it on my binding hardware (normal disk bindings).
The reason why companies advise against the use of Loctite is that it is not safe for plastics. If plastic is exposed to Loctite, it will cause a chemical reaction that will literally melt the plastic as if it was on fire.
Vibratite is safe for plastics, and is not pernament. Vibratite will help absorb the vibrations and chatter that work fasteners loose while snowboarding.
Loctite TITEFOAM Insulating Foam Sealant, One 12 Ounce Can (1988753) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N21KQ4I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_e03YDbQ5DWGG3
Here's what comes to my mind.
The big ones:
Squadron
Tower
Mega Hobby
Lucky Model (Hong Kong)
HobbyLink Japan (Japan)
Hannants (UK)
Smaller shops:
MidTenn hobbies
Roll Models
Great Models
and since you are looking for tools specifically, I'll add
Micro-Mark (pricey, but WOW)
I'm not going to plug any of the listed sites other than to say I have ordered from every one at least once and have had no bad experiences with any of them. As for pricing, sorry to have to tell you but there's no single answer to that one. Prices vary widely between shops and depending on the item you are looking for. Normally the best thing to do is to just shop around.
I'd say to just head to Squadron and get what you need (to browse, just go to Search and hit the Type pulldown). Even if they aren't the cheapest on some stuff, it's not going to be that much of a difference, especially on supplies. Plus their shipping is reasonable and you'll then be on their mailing list which will net you a nice flyer/catalog in your mailbox every month that's great bathroom reading material.
Putty & sandpaper: go to a local shop that sells auto-body supplies (Even something like Autozone will do in a pinch). Get a tube of Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty (or you can apparently save $131,069.71 on it at Amazon, WTF?). That one tube will last you for years. You can also typically get sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper down to around 10000 grit (in the good places).
Lastly, if you have a decent flea-market near you, head on over there and look for the folks selling used dental tools. You can find all kinds of useful implements digging through their stuff: scribers, scalpels, tweezers, tiny spatulas (for putty), and much more.
HTH
What kind of pits and holes we talking about here? If its what I'm thinking of they're small and from air bubbles mixed into the bondo while combining the red catalyst. If that's the case, I usually have those as well and finish with glazing &spotting putty to fill those.
Damn... Does the screen still work? Is there any damage on the other side? I doubt Nintendo will do anything about it because it's a LE, so you can either A) sell it at a severe loss B) try and do a home repair with some sort of filling glue and paint. Maybe something like this and some gold paint that you go over with some clear lacquer. Won't ever look the same, but if you put a Hori TPU case over it, then it might not be so obvious.
Loctite Purple would be even better for such a small thread. Both will work, just use very little.
I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.
The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.
> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.
> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.
Original second level comment begins:
Final Tips: Bonus Round!
There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
If you are using nuts and bolts, I'd recommend Threadlocker Blue (It's available at auto and hardware stores too) it's common name is Permatex. It's a liquid silicone that you coat the threads of the screw with, right before put the nuts on to secure the plate. It fills the the threads, dries quickly, and prevents loosening from vibration.
Good luck.
Go to an autoparts store. Explain the seal coming off: they have a special urethane adhesive made expressly for that. I've bought in the past. This https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M isn't the one I used but it is similar.
For the hydraulic lifter, they are real easy to replace, basically a clip to pry aside (at least on all my Toyotas). Here's a video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gphWW2P620Y for a Prius but yours is probably similar. You can un-clip the old one, bring it to the store and get a replacement (or just tell them the make and model and they'll give it to you).
Try do it yourself. Worse case you'll have to ask somebody if you can't. Its real easy.
>I rolled the window down, then looked over and saw this when I tried to roll it up again.
Wow.....I'm impressed. I've never seen that before.
But they are just glued into a metal channel attached to the window regulator that moves them up and down. There are a couple of adhesives for this, but the one you'll likely be able to use is 3M Window Weld. The professional adhesives will require pre heat. And this should work just fine. I've used it because I don't install glass for a living and don't have something to heat a tube of crap like the pro stuff requires.
Get it on there and roll the window up until it dries/cures (whichever it does). At least a day to be sure. Then you know the window is in the right orientation to roll up all the way and seal.
As other posters have said, you'll need to pull the "door card" (all the trim inside) off to access this.
I have to say again.....just wow. I had no idea they made them this badly.
I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:
The same $50 tool kit
Torque wrench
Cable/housing/wire cutter
Chain/quick link pliers
Wet/Dry Chain lubes
Park Tool grease
Degreaser
Blue Loctite
Carbon grip paste
And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.
Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.
It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.
Probably. could be wrong though. Regardless it's pretty cheap.
Here is a relatively cheap supply list:
Loctite Blue 242:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9tS9yb9QJHK9R
Nano-Oil 10 weight:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002C9RGA4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EwS9yb10KF8P2
Torques:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQEUJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yvS9ybNJ3JZ9A
There are probably better torques but l think these will work. I have a $45 set so I didn't think that is really cheap lol
I use Loctite blue threadlocker. It will hold it in place, but will still allow you to remove the bat when you actually want to remove it.
Any auto parts store has it or here is the amazon link.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS
I'd use more than just a drop with that stuff. Personally, I'd put enough to make sure two to three threads of the fitting are covered. Your stuff isn't as strong needs more.
When people say they used loctite, they're usually talking about the blue stuff which is different. link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS
Specifically, marine grade epoxy.
Just get this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-280-Bumper-Repair-Syringe/dp/B0046VN8JO
Then get a can of this:
http://www.paintscratch.com/touch-up-paint-directions/tricoat.htm
The issue with tri coats is it is almost impossible to blend within the color which white is hardest since it gives off the most hues.
If you ran over a tire the underneath of your car is the bigger issue. That underbody shield can actually cost quite a bit to replace and if you ever get an oil change they are going to wonder where it is.
So I would just get a paint scratch kit and then worry about repainting the whole bumper later.
The tri coat paint costs more in a can but its not like BMW prices and if a shop gives you an issue about blending to the rest of the car I would just say fuck it. I have never seen a tri white that was perfectly blended even from the factory and on white its harder to blend but its harder to tell a bad job too.
This might help in giving you some direction, though I'm not sure if it's exactly what you're looking for: http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-280-Bumper-Repair-Syringe/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1373148270&sr=1-1&keywords=bumper+repair+kit
The mesh is used as the backing to reinforce the split, the epoxy is basically used like bondo for plastics, sandable with low grit sandpaper.
I used it when I removed some emblems on my rear bumper and needed to fill in the holes, it worked perfectly. The bumper itself was pretty messed up, with random marks and divets where other drivers have gone into the rear, license plate first. The epoxy worked great as a filler, I was able to restore the shape and make it smooth without much effort. That said, I'm not sure how well it'll work if you're stitching together 3-4 inches of side skirt together, though I can see it holding its shape together, especially if it's not in a high traffic area.
cheap fix: headliner/carpet spray adhesive:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM
more expensive fix: replace the panel. They're usually cheap from a facebook group for your car (people parting crashed/broken cars), or you can spend a little more
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2010-VW-BEETLE-CONVERTIBLE-INTERIOR-RIGHT-DOOR-TRIM-PANEL-GOOD-CONDITION-/331705302429?hash=item4d3b2d3d9d:g:T-UAAOSwyQtVvFUn&vxp=mtr
Peel back the headliner in the affected area and use some adhesive spray. Try and get something that's designed for headliners.
Eg.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004MEBENM/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/187-5835893-8984414
My Haves:
Padded motorcycle underwear. Beaded seat cover. open toed shoes/sandals to let your feet breath on rest stops. Healthy snacks so you're not buying gas station garbage every time.
Chin skirt. Pin lock. lightweight balaclava. 5 pairs of good earplugs. comfortable in-ear headphones. Lots of podcasts. Nanotips
Heated grips. Heated jacket. a plan for how to get completely waterproof (you+your bike) on the side of the road at a moments notice. Ram mount for your phone. Valentine One radar detector and Visual Alert. Analog tire pressure gauge with blowoff valve. Threadlocker stick. A tank bag that is comfy to lean on. electrical tape. Zip ties. bungee cord. Chain lube. Extra hex wrenches so you can quickly tighten bolts.
what are the back of TV's generally made of? im guessing its a low surface energy plastic, which would ideally need a primer or adhesion promoter for the adhesive to stick properly.
3M makes a variety of adhesion promoter/primer for their tape products.
i have some laying around the house, because of automotive uses.. but something like https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS can be used on low energy and high energy surfaces
or these sponge pads https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Automotive-Adhesion-Promoter-Sponge-Applicator-Packet/?N=5002385+3291952368&rt=rud
sometimes sold under the 4298 number:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-Adhesion-Promoter-Sponge-Applicator/dp/B004TGJU2A
as /u/stealthcoyote said, they go on with double sided tape. The thing is, proper prep is essential in order for them to stick over the long term. The louvers come with a small tube of 3M Adhesion Primer. But I found that single little tube was not enough for proper prep. So I bought two 3-packs on amazon So I had 7 tubes total, and ended up using 6 of them.
So if you do decide to buy those louvers, do yourself a favor and buy extra adhesion primer ahead of time. I was already into my install when I realized that there wasn't enough in that tube for a proper prep. And had to put everything away, and wait for the Amazon delivery.
Vibratite is another option..
https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-VC-3-Threadmate/dp/B008D6GHY6
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=jb+weld+plasticweld&qid=1564790287&s=gateway&sprefix=jb+weld+&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
You're in luck. I've broken those pegs off before, too. The fix is easy, but it's going to cost. It's going to cost you all of about eight bucks.
This is for the broken peg. Clean the area of the peg and the sidecover. Scuff the hell out of it with high-grit sandpaper. If you don't have any, cut it up in a cross hatch pattern with a sharp knife. Don't cut all the way through (!) but you want the surface really scuffed up so the epoxy can get in all the little crevaces and hold everything together.
Once it's cleaned, clean it with brake cleaner or acetone or something that makes sure to get any oils out. (Or skip this step. I have before. If you're unlucky and you skip it, you'll have problems.)
Put epoxy on both surfaces, push the peg into exactly the right place then goop a ton on at the seams and up the sides of the peg. You want enough so that it changes the slope going up a bit - don't be stingy.
I don't have experience with the emblem, but I can't imagine it's much different.
I haven't used that exact product that I linked, but any plastic-specific two part epoxy should do the trick. Not any two-part epoxy, but any that's specifically for plastic.
Good luck! When you finally finish the repair, reply to this comment and let me know how it went. It's going to be fine!
This stuff will work for you. It sticks to everything so go easy with it, and wear gloves.
If you want it to look professional, you'll have to put some time into it. Get yourself some Bondo (or spot putty) and a mixed grit sandpaper kit and start filling in the gaps. After that, sand down the case so that paint will stick to it and apply auto body spray paint to it. Do a few coats to get a nice ever coating and let it dry then, if you want, you can put different sealants/finishes on it get it matte or shiny.
Of course, that's a lot of work, but it's the only way that will look "professional".
Thanks for the response!
Yea, on the lower end of the bumper it was pierced. I'll go ahead and clean the hole out before I fill it then probable 2000 grit wet sand the area.
What do you reccomend for areas like this?
https://i.imgur.com/tKRiTOZ.jpg
This is the type of filler I picked up, how well will this look painted?
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY
To repair models I use:
https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/
Now I just tried that on the HelmetFull and it did not fix the gaps. That's just missing parts of the model.
For gaps like that I'd use the spot putty.
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY
I use that to fill in the big gaps. Then spray on primer, sand, spray again, etc. The way I finish my parts is as follows:
I fill holes, then spray primer, 3 coats. 120 grit sandpaper over all of it, pretty good pressure.
Then 2 more coats after I dust it off. Then medium pressure sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.
Then 2 more coats with medium pressure sanding using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.
1 more coat, then light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper. By the time I'm done my 3D prints are smooth as glass.
Far as the model itself, I used Rhino 3D to model and looks like it's easy to grab each piece and "export selected" as it's own file.
http://imgur.com/jFVN7Ve
If you wanted to you can get a 90 day free trial of Rhino 3D from their website. Full version for 3 months, free. That's how I was able to play with it and decide it's the software i wanted.
I might be able to save all those armor pieces as individual pieces. Seems fast enough. ...ok yeah it was.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B9_Cuin8abLtUmlkNHowSFhrd3M&usp=sharing
That SHOULD be a google drive shared folder. idk, never used it before.
31 items, should be all the armor pieces from neck to toes.
Good luck
I like Durham's Water Putty. It is cheap, fills the grain, easy to sand, doesn't shrink, cures hard, and is easy to find at most big box home stores. It's a tan powder, add water until it is peanut butter consistency and it is ready to sand in 20 minutes.
To me, Bondo doesn't sand as well. Add to that frustration, you have to mix bondo with a curing agent to get it to harden.
Air drying spot putty can be a little trickier to find but is a favorite of some people. As the name implies, it does not need any additional during agents.
I do NOT recommend regular wood filler. Unlike Durham's, it will shrink and pull away from your parts, potentially ruining your finish a week or two after you declare it "done".
For the screw sizes typically found on multirotors I actually recommend the purple kind.
Small gun related tip.
Loctite is your BEST friend. Anything that unscrews, or loosens with a thread on it, should get a small dab. Purple is lighter than Blue (Red is the strongest). If you're worried about the strength of the screw head, use Purple.
http://amzn.com/B0002UEMZ2 \ http://amzn.com/B0002KKTT0
Use screwdrivers that are "hollow ground". Meaning, for a flat bit, they should not be shaped like normal screwdrivers. A normal screwdriver actually usually looks more like a wedge than an straight block being inserted into the screw head. Here's a nice picture:
http://makezine.com/review/tool-review-garrett-wade-gunsmithing-screwdrivers/
You don't have to run out and buy fancy screwdrivers. Grab a metal file, and carefully file the sides of a cheap bit so it is more square. Keeps your screws pretty.
Last bit of advice, Dremels work really REALLY quick. Be careful!
You can put a trigger stop yourself if you'd like, that will reduce the overtravel. Check this out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgBprD635HM
Have fun, stay safe!
Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.
How to replace brake pads and rotors
How to replace shock absorbers
How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)
You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...
The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!
I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.
Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nJVzDbYM5A4DS
I’ve had no problem using this from mountain bike parts to pens. It’s not the original loctite brand but should do the job!
Protip- if you do choose to remove the cover, put some blue thread locker on the screws before you replace them.
Frame: Realacc x210 V+
I have the non-V+ but the size isn't easy to build with, it required to mount the PDB flat, not on stand-offs.
4mm is pretty strong, a good choice for starting.
FPV cam: there are no bad choices, only preferences (PAL vs NTSC / CMOS vs CCD / IR block vs IR sensitive), this Swift will do fine.
Motors: Racerstar 2205 2300KV
2300KV gives you more torque, thus more compatibility with any propellers you want to try, see props section.
You'll choose 2600KV when/if you feel the need to, after more experience flying.
ESC: Racerstar RS30A V2 Blheli_S
Blheli_S is mandatory if building new: compatible with Multishot and Dshot in some extent, start with Multishot though.
20A would do fine I'm sure, but I'll choose 30A because Chinese-numbers and price difference.
PDB: Matek-clone with 5V/12V/Current Sensor
It's so cheap and do the job, integrated current sensor, XT-60 connector at the back.
Buy this XT-60 if mounting battery on the side.
FC: Omnibus F3 clone
OSD is integrated, and works well with the PDB above to read Current Sensor. This Youtube playlist is also nice when starting
Antenna: Anything really, small or long, you'll break them a lot so don't go too expensive right now.
Bear ind mind:
-first fly with this, it still works at fair-enough range and very durable.
-buy the same "type" of antennas: RHCP with RHCP, LHCP with LHCP. Don't mix them and label them if needed!
-5.8GHz for the video, 2.4GHz for your radio/remote.
-look at your video transmitter (Vtx) connector : RP-SMA/SMA-male/female
-buy multiple adapters, you never know when you'll need them.
Props: Science now! Propellers go according to your motors (torque) and also the battery (3S vs 4S), that's for the future, obviously they all fly (and break) at the end.
KingKong 5040 bi-blade are known to be cheap, good and durable.
-Tri-blades are heavier than Bi-blades, 2300KV motors can even bear Quad-blades.
-Bi-blades generally allow more room for unballanced propellers.
Need balancing your props?
Charger: Genuine Imax B3 = need to buy a power supply.
Fake Imax B3 = it works fine, no need to buy power supply.
Battery: There is debate to whether start 3S vs 4S, you could buy 4S now and be gentle on the throtlle.. but do you trust yourself?
I'd start with two 3S until I can do powerloops with confidence, and that's not today.
Get cheap at roughly $30 each, and around 1500mAh to get the most flight time/experience, forget lightweight ultra expensive 100C fake-rating 900mAh like you were racing for $2,000 championship.
Video Transmitter: preferably small & power adjustable, 25mW when flying with others and 200mW when flying alone.
DO NOT turn on 600mW it will simply burn unless you fly very fast all the time, when cold..
Also never power the copter without an antenna, Vtx will also cook.
Goggles: check if it accepts both PAL and NTSC, depending your camera.
Radio receiver: depends on your radio transmitter/remote obviously, I'd suggest going FrSky if you're naked. Check the difference between Mode1 & Mode2 before buying, Google will help.
No money and geek: Devo7e + FrSky/small toys multi-module, can control FrSky & TinyWhoop-like toys but requires some good knowledge on hacking/soldering/configuration.
No money and newbie: Turnigy Evolution is having some hype recently, but does not work with FrSky receivers. You probably need to open this link twice for it to work btw.
EDIT:
M5 size nylocks cuz the aluminum stock ones suck.
Blue Loctite or similar cuz vibrations will loosen the screws.
M3 screws cuz you never have the right size.
M3 nylon stand-offs cuz they break in crashes, you can get a pack of different sizes too.
75W soldering iron and it's the minimum, in this hobby you'll prolly want a station (you'll find good-enough ones at $60 on Amazon)
The stuff on the lug nuts could be this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2
The monoprice stands are great. I bought 2 dual screen mounts to put on my lab's work bench. I got ones with the articulationg arm. The one that ovaltineEuroFormula will work for what you want.
Pro Tip: do yourself a favor and get a bunch of washer, LocTite and these type of thumb screws
I makes for taking on and off monitor tool less. The washers help spread the weight of the monitors. And the LocTite helps keep the bolts in. I do performance automotive work on the side as a hobby and I use that stuff on everything.
I didn't do any of that when I first did the install and regretted it once we started moving the articulating arm around and the bolts started to loosen a bit. Replaced everything from above and no problems for over a year and a half of use/abuse.
I would take the bottom cover off and blow the dust out of the two fans. I have to do this once every 6 months or so because of pet hair. Even if the vents are exposed you may have dust or hair caught in the back of the vents on the inside. Make sure you get some of this to put on the screws because once you take them off they seem to wiggle loose over time.
Read on the forums that it's usually a tail light gasket issue and applied this sealant on both gasket surfaces and that solved the issues.
3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive Tube - 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_w9NoxbZZS1WR8
Also even the aftermarket tail lights can have this issue with the gasket.
This is only $5 and meant for sil tents. Why not just use it?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009RP8HO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the stuff you need.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA
In case you ever need to delid it again. It'll come apart just like the stock stuff.
No prob! Me personally I would go with this:
3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Black Cartridge - 10.5 fl oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FW61EW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xdUsDbYAA9YPJ
3M Window Weld works best.
I could be mistaken (not owing one of them) but they seem to be entirely involved with holding on nothing more than a plastic "decorative trim", in which case as long as they get a few turns into metal its all good.
Make sure you put a drop of permatex blue on it when re-assembling (eg this), get it from where ever is convenient, and any decent hardware shop near you should have it. Make sure you get that and not a high strength one.
You want Loctite 243 - the oil-resistant version of normal Blue Loctite (242). This is basically the same thing.
Pick "surface insensitive" a.k.a. "oil resistant" while you're at it. About the same price, but much more universal. Also, in some cases gel is more convenient. Here's the stuff I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM5TQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM564/
I just did/am doing my headliner (need to put it back in) this week and I used Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive. It's item #27828, bright orange can with a blue top. Seems to work great! I used just under 2 cans for my main headliner board. You should get some high quality headliner foam. Usually local upholstery places will have it in sheets. Just avoid any kind of heavy and/or non foam backed material (if you want it to last and look nice) and you should be fine. Also, remember to get a star bit for the rear seat belts. You can get one at Autozone.. I think it was 45 but I can't remember exactly off the top of my head.
Here's the adhesive. You can get it at any car store:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-27828-Headliner-Adhesive-Aerosol/dp/B000HBNU9K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417054160&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+27828
EDIT:
I've made an album with my current headliner progress, just to give you an idea.
http://imgur.com/a/ZdCNU
As you can see in the pictures, the spray is pretty heavy duty. Hope this helps.
Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive Aerosol Can
Headliner adhesive.
Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive Aerosol Can, 16.75 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNU9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JXkSDbG53H4B4
Gotcha! Well as long as it’s the ‘blue’ threadlock one your all set👍 heres an example
No problem grasshopper. Those stems are actually hard to remove, so congratulations. This makes it easier for the knob issue, now you can soak it in kero laced with PB and it will come, you can also mount the stem in a vice (use scrap wood or leather to protect the threads. As to the stem, clean it well, then when you reinsert it use some Loctite and it will be fine. Vintage tool restoration is not for the faint of heart. Again, patience, and you will overcome.....
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS
Also for the screw on your towel hanger, try getting some Loctite.
Loctite*
....to lock down your bolts. tight. :P
Not a dumb question exactly, you're just not putting in the effort!
Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v9ugzb8P1PS7R
Google is your friend :)
everyone in the forums is using blue loctite for their bearings because they would like to remove them at some point again to clean or replace the bearing. I would recommend using that to seat the bearing.
I also recommend this. Optionally, a five gallon bucket and an ice scraper for scraping small parts off your magnet also come in handy. Most importantly, have fun!
That's the same slate we used on our film. It's a fine piece of kit that Does The Job. The 'color bars' are just ink printed and wear off over a month's use (see pic). It's the same kit you get on Amazon, they're just shipping directly from China.
Pro Tip: Put Loctite on the screws at the hinge of the sticks. They don't have washers and they fall off during production.
Go buy some thread locker or something like it. Take the screws out, put a little on and you shouldn't have this problem anymore. This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Threadlocker-6-Milliliter-209728/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1486099527&sr=1-1&keywords=blue+loctite
I don't think that is the right loctite. That stuff is super glue not threadlocker. Threadlocker isn't permanent like super glue.
I personally use the blue.
I have those stands too. They're nice!
If they're wobbly for you, I would recommend unscrewing it and dabbing a little Loctite on the screws. Worked wonders for me. Handy stuff to have around in general, saves my butt a few times per year.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-0-20-209741/dp/B000I1RSNS/
You need to use Threadlocker when you put any screw, nut or bolt into a machine that will experience vibration.
Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jVNKDb3XDSN8F
I don't have any balisongs with screws but I've seen around this subreddit people recommending blue loctite and roughly following the procedure outlined this video. I've used this product on many types of small screws like knives and it seems to work well (even though the tube is red, it is the blue specification).
I upvoted you so hopefully someone with experience could either disprove me or back me up.
Try some BLUE loctite on the set screw. It will hold it in place but can be removed still. If you use red loctite it usually requires heat to remove the screw.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=asc_df_B000I1RSNS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198054161189&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15853359351861568847&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9025389&hvtargid=pla-350863460111&psc=1
I had the same problem. I put a little loctite on mine and left off the lock washer.
a little bit of thread lock like https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=br_lf_m_7j4nsxzjbsum5b8_img?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi works great
Yep, no new gear or anything needed.
Keep in mind you have to swap out the AT gear and and retension belts when swapping to the street gear.
By the way, buy this before your board arrives.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I1RSNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I swapped from AT to Street and unlocked some of the screws too far so I lost the loctite and my tension would come loose in 30 seconds of riding and I'd be like UGH and then I had to uber home. Today after 12 hours of sealing it, 11 miles and tension is still great
I got this, this, this, and this. If you're doing it only once then it may be worth it, but if you're gonna do it for multiple sights then you might wanna get the tools.
Be sure to clean the screw threads first with acetone. This will remove any old Loctite or dirt so that the new Loctite will adhere. Use Blue Loctite: http://amzn.to/2xpsbl6 but only a small amount, don't over do it.
https://amzn.com/B000I1RSNS
This is not the technically correct fix, but I've used J-B Weld on my 1993 fiberglass boat that had similar damage. It's not a pretty fix, though it would look better on your grey boat than my white one. It's a marine epoxy that I mixed up and "patched" the area. If it's on the bottom of the boat no one is going to see it anyways. It's 20 years old - it's not worth doing the proper repair. I'm on my second season and it looks the same as the day I did the patch.
My boat came with the damage and the previous owner drove it without it spreading as /u/LikesGladiatorMovies suggested. I wouldn't guaranty yours will hold up the same but that is my experience.
[That stuff just so happens to be on sale (-$3) at Amazon right now for $11.99 shipped w Prime. FYI.](https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_ZsvvDbQ3DB4W9 via @amazon)
Here..http://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462847526&sr=1-1&keywords=auto+window+adhesive…. ya go
You need to get all of the old off first. And wipe it down with solvent[KEEP IT OFF THE PAINT!!!!!] Perhaps tape the area off first
Youtube will help you install and remove. Basically like /u/th7957 says you get a wire between the window frame and glass and cut the seal to get the glass out. Then you have the fun endeavor of cleaning the old gasket/sealant out.
Check out part suppliers that specialize in that vehicle for that window seal if it is available. It is more common to use window adhesive but I personally would rather use the correct gasket if it is an option. My guess is you will end up using the adhesive though.
3M makes the best. Clean all the crap off the body and the window before putting new glue on it. Let the glue setup a little before installing the window or it will be a slippery mess.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK
sure
use this method
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=No4G88iqDss
with this product
http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-280-Bumper-Repair-Syringe/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462824821&sr=8-1&keywords=bumper+repair
Thank you! So I just removed everything, the dash lid and the center console lid; fortunately they both had a separate section underneath that could be unscrewed where I was able to tuck away the excess fabric. I cleaned it really well with 99% isopropyl alcohol (this discolored the vinyl or whatever it was, so if you intend on taking it off and going back to stock I would advise to maybe just use dish soap). I found the fabric I wanted - Pendleton wool which is a high quality wool from the Pacific Northwest if you haven't heard of it. Since it is constantly exposed to sun, I would advise going with a higher quality fabric in hopes it would minimize fading quickly. After cleaning the area, I used Elmers Craftbond Adhesive but if I do it again I would use something stronger like a 3M product... maybe even 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. Spray that over the large surface area where you will be applying the fabric, you have a little time before it sets so spray and apply your fabric but get it centered and positioned where you want rather quickly --- this is the time you will also want to stretch it out to avoid ripples in the fabric. Finally I used a hot glue gun but any craft Adhesive would work to secure the fabric corners and edges that were tucked away under the cosmetic area -- again I was able to unscrew a plastic piece where I applied the hot glue/adhesive to secure the fabric better. I cut away the excess fabric and screwed it all together which also helped make the fabric taut. Be generous with the initial aerosol fabric adhesive on the cosmetic side - depending on how thick the fabric is you might want to be careful to not soak a thin fabric with it. I used enough that I could slightly feel the adhesive through the wool but it didn't affect anything. The corners were tough, but I let the spray adhesive dry and it allowed me to pull on it to make it a lot more taut which got the ripples out as well as letting me square the edges and apply the hot glue. Sorry for making this super long - I might be making it sound difficult, but it actually was really easy to do. Shit now that I think about it, I used some forum walk through to do it - I'll try to find it and post an edit with it.
Edit: fixed links and added walk through I found on a Subaru forum, he used seat fabric from an STI but go to any fabric store and pick out your own! You could probably also add a foam layer in between to pad your elbow - I'm sure you could also find that at a fabric store or even Amazon. My next project is actually to go to my wood elf father in law and make a modified center console lid and then wrap that with Pendleton wool, I want to add a cup holder and a few other things - maybe an area to stash my CB and some camping gear.
Spend $15 and fix it the right way... you're welcome..
3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_amVpDb49MJPV1
I would scrap off the foam. I would worry about the long term adhesion if you don't.
Use the 3M spray. 3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MEBENM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nTD2xb2DCYPN2
Also, get some sort of roller to smooth everything out.
Headliner material is very thin so any heavy adhesive will bleed through. THought I heard of one available at craft stores that is very good and does not bleed through fabric.
Maybe something specific for it like: http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM
http://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM
Yep! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053ZNMDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524532260&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=loctite+stick
I'm thinking about getting one to eliminate the fact that the liquid stuff just kind of gets everywhere.
Once they "bottom out" I would snug them up with a screwdriver. Another option is to use threadlocker such as https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-213-Threadmate-Threadlocker-Degree/dp/B0088YEGXM/ to prevent them from coming loose. Be careful how tight you make them as they do break rather easy.
This is good. If you have a small job and don't want to mix up some epoxy, JB weld might be a good option. Its simple, works well, and is cheap. Good luck!
​
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50139-Plastic-Adhesive/dp/B01IBOK7FE/ref=asc_df_B01IBOK7FE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312151168520&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5903731137153641802&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9004400&hvtargid=aud-799711277694:pla-625516023832&psc=1
filling primer will take forever to fill that.
Use either this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-907-Glazing-Spot-Putty/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466828734&sr=8-1&keywords=bondo+glazing+and+spot+putty
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/DELUXE-MATERIALS-DLXBD044-Perfect-Plastic/dp/B0076LAVFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466828746&sr=8-1&keywords=perfect+putty
Pros and Cons of both materials:
Bondo hardens like a brick in 30 minutes and very easy to fill gaps and to sand it away. But it is harmful if you breathe in too much so you need an organic gas mask and eye protection.
Perfect Putty isnt that hard when it dries but it is not harmful. But it is water soluble so you need to seal it after.
I don't really have good advice for you there. I've been using this stuff simply because my roommate had it on hand. It's not the easiest to work with but it's been getting the job done. The Punished Props YouTube channel has some good tips for spot filling. One of which is mixing super glue with baking soda (I think) to make it more of a paste. I'm considering giving that a try eventually.
Bondo 907 Glazing and Spot Putty - 4.5 oz.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LyFsyb1H7J5Q7
I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JM8PY/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_onGUDbNE1GRZ8
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JM8PY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510944728&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bondo+spot+putty&dpPl=1&dpID=41sEoJDIk%2BL&ref=plSrch
I think it was either 330 or 220 grit
Purple is for fasteners 1/4 in diameter and below. That's typical for most knives. Lots of people use blue, it's a bit stronger but still OK.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38653-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0
Have you tried thread locker? Locktite 222 purple is a good "won't go anywhere". Blue 243 is "won't go anywhere without force". Red 263 is "the screw will NOT come out without heat or EXTREAM force. Do not use Red on small screws. Blue is what I use regularly, and haven't ever had any problems in the 20 years of use. Each bottle will last you years if you use occasionally(aren't in manufacturing). I've never used a whole bottle before losing it.
Check out their own website if you want, and message if you have any questions. Have a good one.
The blue stuff is most common - you'll find it anywhere, but I find it's too strong for some small screws (like the ones you find in RC cars) , so I've stripped out a few screw heads and started looking for another solution.
The one I ended up getting is the Loctite 222 "low strength", which is purple. I ordered it form Amazon.com and had it delivered to me in Canada (east of Toronto): https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-555339-Purple-Strength-6-milliliter/dp/B0002KKTT0
If you do use the blue, use the smallest amount possible and you should be OK. And only use the stuff on metal to metal - it apparently doesn't like plastic.
For what it's worth, I'm the only guy I've come across in the dozens of people I RC with who uses the purple stuff. That's how rare it is. LOL
If one truly wishes to use aluminum/Ti stems is there any reason not to use a thread locker like Loctite Blue or better yet Purple (222). It seems with ORings and Teflon tape the stem still loosens after a few rounds of throwing. With some thread locker you have a real aversion to release from the vibrations of a dart landing.
Worst case you have to remove it. With blue you'll surely need a tool to remove the shaft. Purple could be undone by hand, especially with shafts that have the hole through them to tighten with another dart.
Amazon link
They put a purple/blue material on the screw called lock tight. My screws were coming out so I purchased it from Amazon or home depot. Amazon lock tight link
Thanks!
This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KNelzbNETSX7V
Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEMZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YMelzb052MTNF
Which do you recommend?
i don't know if this would solve it, or is okay to use on glasses/plastic, but my first thought was to try this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24200-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0002UEMZ2
New - https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-OEM-94-97-Accord-Front-Door-Weatherstrip-Seal-Right-72310SV1013/182633620300?fits=Year%3A1997%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3AAccord&epid=1022124500&hash=item2a85cfe34c:g:f3MAAOSwoZZZ4q-s&vxp=mtr
Used - https://www.ebay.com/itm/94-97-HONDA-ACCORD-RIGHT-FRONT-DOOR-RUBBER-SEAL-WEATHER-STRIP-ON-THE-DOOR-OEM/282473391399?fits=Year%3A1997%7CMake%3AHonda%7CModel%3AAccord&hash=item41c4b9e527:g:fKEAAOSw8HBZFLYK&vxp=mtr
Adhesive - https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M
What I do when I have an actual gasket I am worried about moving is use a product by 3m called Weatherstrip adhesive, lay the gasket on it and then stick the bolts through and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Its not thick like RTV its just an adhesive so for tricky installs it is super helpful. You may not need it at all, just a handy tip.
Swapped my 93's seals for some off a 96. Use lots of lube where the seals sit and on top of the seals to make sure they dont dry out on you and crack.
Get this 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue down the corners on the seals where the factory stuff was. This also works to glue the rubber together wherever theres a rip or crack. 10/10 product
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KwHFAbMDWF6RS
I've always used 3M weatherstripping adhesive. Amazon carries it, but I usually get it from my local parts place.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M
Not sure what to recommend for the back panels. Silicone caulk isn't going to be super durable though.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M It will stick anything to anything.
Yes. I would use this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M/ref=asc_df_B00063X38M/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312181776237&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10367133787620574020&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019054&hvtargid=pla-627402842112&psc=1
(Sorry for the fat link)
This stuff: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08008-Black-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B00063X38M
works great for rubber to metal. I use it a lot at work for small little things.
It's really easy and inexpensive to make them. Check this out. Instead of sewing them, I used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and magnetic strips.
If they can't or won't it's exceedingly easy to do. Get this, thin it with mineral spirits to the consistency of thick tomato sauce, and apply.
Best seam sealer:
https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Silicone-Sealant-Silnylon/dp/B0009RP8HO
​
I'd question the need for a tent 'waterproofing spray'. Do you really need it? Is the tent not waterproof on it's own? It should be. If the tent is not waterproof - you should consider getting a new tent. A spray will be a poor bandaid on a major problem.
Gear Aid has some seam sealant products. Their silicone based sealant is for ultralight tents made with silnylon fabric. If your tent isn't made with silnylon, then your tent fabric has a urethane coating that should be seam sealed with their urethane based sealant.
Some people with silnylon tents prefer to make their own by mixing mineral spirits and GE Silicone II. That's partially because they want some extra to paint stripes on their tent floor so they don't slide around as much.
I've been using a bearpawwd 8x10 for a couple seasons and I am extremely satisfied. Do not use 550 cord for a tarp. It stretches way too much. Silnylon is already very stretchy and your tarp will sag a lot. Use a very low stretch poly line to secure your tarp. My preference is lawson glowire. I use bowline knots, taut line hitches and occasionally clove hitches. Make sure to seal the non perimeter tieouts as these have a tendency to leak when stretched.
Finally and most importantly is practice. My first couple pitches were rubbish. But, when you get the hang of it and start getting creative you can do just about anything with a tarp.
http://i.imgur.com/yIyK3N1.jpg
http://www.bearpawwd.com/tarps/flat_tarps.php
http://lawsonequipment.com/Cordage/Reflective-Glowire-p1024.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eG-xZFUVR-M
https://www.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-SilNet-Silicone-Sealer/dp/B0009RP8HO/
I think it's a great idea to make your first pack with cheap ($$) stuff, and then spend money on later packs, once you've gained some knowledge, techniques, and preferences on what you like in a pack.
So, to address the other comments, presumably - I say, because I haven't tried it - you could use some fray-stop on your seams to help them hold. Maybe silicon seam sealer?
For the water, you could try and apply water resistance with a Wash in product, a spray, or some people do wash and spray after. If washing, I'd do it before constructing, spray could happen after, but I'm hypothesizing, as I haven't used either.
Probably should still use a trash compactor liner but it would help keeping the water from weighing your pack down.
This stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA?sa-no-redirect=1
I use it quite frequently to fix holes and cuts in regular tires.
For the light, you want a silicone sealant. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1419374300&sr=8-2&keywords=black+silicone+sealant
Be careful on the door. Are there screws behind that strip? If so, and you glue something on, you'll never be able to remove the door panel. I'd just do a bit of double stick tape, but not so much that I couldn't remove it.
I have my X2 enclosers sealed up pretty tight with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AL6WLA but I am still going to limit my rides as much as possible once we get into the winter snow/ice/road salt season. Like others have said, my main concern is going through patches where salt or brine has been applied to road and trail surfaces because it is majorly corrosive to _all_ materials. Nothing worse than salt + moisture.
I Delided my 7700k and lost a solid 15c and I use a NZXT AIO Cooler.
I used these 2 things and worked like a charm.
Thermal Grizzly Liquid
And this Helpful tool
You can go the extra mile and use plain nail varnish to help with protecting the resistors and a little tiny bit of [This] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AL6WLA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
My next step is for a custom water loop but planning to do it in an itx case when I upgrade next.
Hopefully this was of some use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FW61EW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NDIBxbMQ88A2N
I'll use windshield caulking https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Window-Weld-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B000FW61EW
This one? http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24300-Surface-Insensitive-Threadlocker/dp/B000HBM5TQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453660814&sr=8-5&keywords=threadlock
Upholstery Adhesive works well but is rather expensive. You'll need 2 cans. Use the Permatex brand one. The 3M one didnt work well for me in some parts
Don’t know if it’s in the right place, but I have a ‘03 ce Jetta, and I removed the headliner last summer because is was beginning to sag. This summer I want to wrap it up.
I’m looking for a nice fabric (suede like) that’s will not fade in a year.
Planning on using this glue
Also, my interior is beige, don’t know is I’m going to the a-b-c pillar and put them black. Kinda look like this minus the seats
Or I stay with all beige anyway the dash board is black.
I've got a 2001 Civic and I replaced it myself. It was honestly really, really easy. Just took a little elbow grease and a little research on youtube/google. It cost me about 50 bucks in total. I used this video as a guide and this video is a little more recent (I haven't watched through it fully)
You wanna buy foam-backed fabric from jo-anns or any store similar to it, a metal brush, some razor blades, and some adhesive spray like this one.
What kind of car do you drive? I'm betting you could look up your car on youtube along with the correct key words to find out more info. Since you have an older car, it's probably gonna be easier to service yourself than if it were a new car.
If the buzzing is your only problem get some loctite and apply a little bit to all the screws after setting it up. Fixed the buzzing on my Jazzmaster in 10 seconds. Just make sure you get the non permanent type so you can readjust it if needed. I almost guarantee the problem is just the screws not the whole bridge.
Most hardware stores will have it on the shelf, just be careful not to buy the permanent red variety.
Otherwise, Amazon to the rescue.
Thats relatively flush which means you need to thread it more.
You’re installing this with a front sight tool, correct? Regular home depot tools will not suffice (trust me I tried and ruined...)
If not, this is a decent budget one that hasn’t let me down in 6 months—my Ameriglo tool has tho
Also get some Loctite
I'd recommend this too.
screws fell out after i disassembled to install a ssd
i heard that blue loctite is what they use to make sure they stay, might get some soon if it happens again
You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:
Vice.
Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.
The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Blue-Threadlocker-6-Milliliter-209728/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462848673&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+blue
Try to apply this product on the screw which tight the motor mount to the truck. based on what the boosted customer service said, those screws were designed to hold motor mount to the truck, temporarily while the epoxy completely dry. But, thread locker and screw hold motor mount really well. It has been almost 4months after I apply thread locker. and it still holds with any problem. but send them back to boosted before ur warranty ends just for check up, which i ll do pretty soon:)
Make sure to leave ur board for 24hours after u apply thread locker. make sure do not touch or ride for 24hours!!
This stuff will work and is removable (with a little effort) if you need to remove the joystick in the future. I use it to secure the nuts to the bolts on my car's brakes.
Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_i6T0Bb9RE5YJ3
Loctite
lubricant for Bali
You could grab some light-weight loctite like loctite blue: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/
Then put a very very small amount on the threads, screw them as tight as you can, and let them sit. They'll be secure. And since you're using something like loctite instead of super glue, you can still unscrew them (though it'll take a lot more effort)
I believe some DW screws are set permanently with Loctite. I may be wrong about your situation.
Yeah, it's just a thread sealant; keeps the threads from banging loose over time (which they do). UK might have a different version, but loctite is pretty prolific, I'd be surprised if you don't have it. Link below off the US market for reference; this is the blue stuff, which will keep the threads from coming loose, but will still let you remove it if you actively try. Another nut could work, but thread sealer is better for the purpose; it's also cheap, and the tiniest bottle will last a very long time. It only takes a drop or two on the threads.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=loctite+blue&qid=1555605929&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Ah, now that I'm looking I even see .2oz: https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Heavy-Duty-Threadlocker-Single/dp/B000I1RSNS
Right, this is exactly the issue that's happening.
There are three solutions:
This is what mine looks like. You can buy them from pretty much any hardware store. Just ask for M5 nylocks. They have a plastic bit inside (color doesn't matter). You can bring in one of your prop nuts just to double-check and confirm they're M5.
I use an 8mm ratchet wrench, the ratcheting capability is VERY important, it'll cut down your swap time by 90%.
Cool!
Thanks for the update!
Did you use threadlock to secure the bolts? Bolts wiggle free under normal use, but they don't with threadlock! :D
Also, carry a few spare bolts with you, because even the very best will wait till the worst possible moment before breaking! :(
There is potential for the screws to release.
Go ahead and get some, it's cheap and will keep your quad from coming apart mid-flight.
On a similar note, probably also not the technically correct repair, But 4 years ago I repaired several 1 inch sized dings through the gel coat on my keel with JB WaterWeld. Before applying I cleaned it the area well with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and then dried it with a hair dryer. The boat is white so it was a good match, and with just a little sanding it looked pretty darn good. Four years later those repairs are still holding strong. Good luck with your repairs OP. It should be an easy fix, just be sure to take care of right away before it gets worse.
Edit: Marine Weld might be a better match for you since it will dry a dark grey like your hull. I prefer to work with the putty that I linked above because it is easier to shape. But I bet the marine weld would do a good job for you too.
I used to work in boats and there are only a few products that really work. They vary in price and are for different applications.
For smaller patches JB Weld has a two part marine adhesive that isn't too expensive (make sure to follow directions)
http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8272-MarineWeld-Marine/dp/B000KKPFFA/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1458915714&sr=8-41&keywords=two+part+marine+epoxy
3M has a tape that i've used before and works well if you can dry/clean the surface before applying.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03625-Wrap-Repair-Silicone/dp/B00G25GOCA/ref=pd_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51uPJZ9CL0L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR114%2C160_&refRID=1G59XP3NQHA92MR38NTY
JB Weld is pretty much the epoxy to go with for nearly everything, they have a marine version:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKPFFA
A good glass shop?
OK, these windows are a royal PITA. You have to cut off the old rubber, remove the glass (carefully!) and clean the glass spotlessly clean, clean the opening (again, spotless) as well. You then need the proper sealant (possibly urethane?)
And you'd need the rubber weatherstripping. It has to be cut to size, and spliced (fun... basically using superglue).
I'm sure there are YouTube videos on it, basically a piece of cord to install the glass, and some sweat and work.
FYI you can repair the bumper if you still have the pieces with bondo, mesh and clamps, works really well if you put the prep work in.
Bondo 280 Epoxy Bumper Repair Syringe Kit - 0.34 fl. oz. by 3M http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_gwbkub0EM035B
This is the bondo you would recommend? https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-280-Bumper-Repair-Syringe/dp/B0046VN8JO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517862027&sr=8-1&keywords=bondo+epoxy
Would the 3M or JBweld epoxy work as well?
You can fill chips and this hole with body epoxy and sand then wrap over the top of that. Most automotive pait stores have it. Amazon link
Like the others have said, pull the pumper cover off, and take a heat gun and push them out. From personal experience though, it doesn't take much heat to make that plastic malleable, so take it slow. If you can't get it perfect, this Bondo bumper repair kit is great too. Just put it on, let it cure, sand it down and finish it with some glazing putty. This formula worked well for me and I repaired a puncture with it. Also, if you need paint, Sherwin Williams automotive seems to be significantly cheaper than any of the online color match sellers.
Then you can try Bondo 280 Epoxy Bumper Repair Syringe Kit
Don't use regular Bondo though, your bumper needs a certain amount of flex. Regular Bondo would be too hard.
doesn't look too bad. try this with some creativity and color match paint. wont be perfect, but way less than $700
I've had good luck with this coupled with a fibrous backing like fiberglass.
Also, the correct answer is zip ties. Chicks dig scars, but whatever.
id try something like this
https://www.amazon.com/3M-38808-Headliner-Fabric-Adhesive/dp/B004MEBENM
There are probably some “store brands” in the auto parts stores, but be sure it’s a heavy duty headliner adhesive.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37643-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522723261&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+loctite+stick
Worth every penny. The liquid is a pain imo. The stick is much easier to dispense on screw threads.
My binding screws came with Blue Loctite pre-applied. It was the paste version, not the liquid. You can buy Loctite paste that comes in something like a gluestick type package that won't get everywhere. Just rub the threads of the screw on it.
Medium Strength (Blue) Loctite is 100% safe for the inserts and the paste keeps it off the Binding disk. Remember the motto: "A little dab will do ya." Less is more with loctite.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37643-Medium-Strength-Threadlocker/dp/B0053ZNMDE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500130706&sr=8-3&keywords=loctite+blue
Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/Black-3M-Carbon-Fiber-CA-421/dp/B0062A7M2G
Adhesion promoter: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P06AS/ref=pd_sim_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4G41S5GQ7V11HB636HJ6
I've had success with vibra-tite.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-VC-3-Threadmate/dp/B008D6GHY6&ved=2ahUKEwj0nbnsgOXkAhVUrJ4KHbbUDqkQFjAIegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw0Il4oAg7SNZc1JWcMsNMJI
http://www.amazon.com/Vibra-TITE-VC-3-Threadmate/dp/B008D6GHY6
That is what you will need to use instead of loctite when securing the fastener to and plastics. I have not ran in to any material used in 3d printing that can hold up to loctite. But I will say the Vibratite is some serious stuff.
Done right the MOS system is solid. There are a few things to know, though:
The only reasons I see to have a Glock milled these days is if you want irons forward, are using an oddball optic or are already having mill work done.
It might. I've never used it myself, but it's used to fill in holes in the outsole, so I think it would fill the cracks. Since that's the midsole, they probably won't be as comfortable. Or maybe look into spray foam, and then just paint over it.
Black RTV works well.
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81158-Silicone-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B000AL6WLA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343347050&sr=8-1&keywords=black+RTV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1RSNS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_ff63AbCGMR60V
They use polyurethane adhesive for windshields, so i'm guessing that would probably work fine for your mirror.
I don't think it comes in smaller containers than this for the 3m stuff though https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493075069&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+polyurethane