Best body repair & restoration chemicals according to redditors

We found 416 Reddit comments discussing the best body repair & restoration chemicals. We ranked the 145 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Body repair & restoration adhesives

Top Reddit comments about Body Repair & Restoration Chemicals:

u/Legion74 · 12 pointsr/ram_trucks

Yes! But I fixed mine permanently with a little application of Permatex 81158 adhesive sealant silicone (just a few squirts into the weather seal, evenly spaced, on each side of the truck).$3 from Amazon

u/neuromonkey · 12 pointsr/photography

Thanks, useful to know specifically where the failure happened.

Anyone using gear like this: Use LockTite Threadlocker or something similar on all threaded parts meant to stay put!

u/nuovo_donna · 10 pointsr/Autos
u/Szalkow · 10 pointsr/handguns

Howdy, new /r/HappyBuckmarkOwners member!

Some Buckmark pointers:

  • It cannot be field-stripped without Allen wrenches (3/32 for sight base, 7/64 for barrel). If you want to clean without disassembling, strongly consider getting a boresnake to clean. If you only have a cleaning rod, you can clean from the muzzle but must be very careful not to ding or scrape the crown around the muzzle, or you can just disassemble the thing.

  • Don't dryfire an empty Buckmark. The firing pin will carve a notch on the breech face.

  • #4 yellow drywall anchors make perfect snap caps for practice and dryfire. You can also use spent 22LR casings.

  • A drop of blue Loctite on your sight base screws will keep them from coming loose after reassembly.

    If you're feeling adventurous:

  • Consider removing the mag disconnect. Being unable to pull the trigger without a magazine is a worthless feature, and removing one simple spring fixes this and improves the feel of the trigger pull.

  • Consider performing the Heggis flip to reduce the weight of your trigger pull.

  • Be careful when removing the grips - they hold tension on a lot of small parts.
u/Clegko · 9 pointsr/projectcar

I actually meant purple. I use it for really small stuff, like RC cars and such.

u/AmateurSparky · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Screw is probably close to stripped. Throw some Loctite on the threads and tighten it back up. The blue loctite is semi-permanent, meaning you can remove it in the future if you choose.

u/umopapisdnwei · 8 pointsr/canada used to have it for $4.99... Maybe their supplier jacked up the prices.

Even at Canadian Tire, it's significantly higher than the US$2.65 price on

u/Magnetar12358 · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

If the hinge is unglued, it's fixable with J-B Weld Plastic Bonder. If the screen is undamaged, it can be glued or mounted back. If it is damaged, laptop screen replacements aren't too expensive.

I had to repair an Acer Nitro 5 laptop using J-B Weld. The laptop was closed and was accidentally knocked off a table. The hinge cracked and separated from the screen and ripped out a screw holding the screen. Luckily the screen was fine. After using J-B Weld it was stronger than the surrounding plastic. The key is to let it cure for at least 24 hours. Clean the surfaces, removing any oils. Clamp everything together to ensure good bonding.

u/MattyDoodles · 6 pointsr/watercooling

I would suggest against red if OP ever wants to be able to open it up for any reason later.

Purple, low strength is all you need.

Loctite 555339 222 Purple Low Strength Thread Locker Tube, 6-milliliter

u/OmniaMors · 6 pointsr/Firearms

time to trouble shoot!

did the metal bend? use a stiffer metal like steel if you used aluminum.

did the screws come loose? threads are naturally loose to allow for them to be screwed in, use a thread filler

did the screws actually bend? your shear stress is too high, increase the area the force is distributed over by using more screws.

Did any metal get scraped off at any point? Same idea as above, look to increase the surface area between any surfaces where material was used.

we can rebuilt it! WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY.

u/SticklessControllers · 6 pointsr/fightsticks

I’d also suggest getting some blue threadlocker . This stuff is great and really stops things from coming undone unless intentionally unscrewed. Make sure to avoid red threadlocker, as it’s way too good. The red stuff pretty much ensures that once it’s screwed on it will never come off. The blue is less permanent. Just apply a little bit to the threading and you’re good to go!

u/mstevenson10009 · 6 pointsr/Multicopter
u/AllThatStuff · 6 pointsr/boating

Not sure I can tell exactly where your leak is from the photos, but I would recommend a weld if you have access or JB Weld (an easy epoxy) if you don't. The JB Weld might be the easiest option anyway. I have used on boats and my automotive engines many times.

J-B Weld 8272 MarineWeld Marine Epoxy - 2 oz

u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/cars

You should be able to buy a spray can of fabric/upholstery adhesive, spray it down and put it back in place. I've done that with the material on my Evo, holding up well 8 months later.

For the edge, use a credit card to tuck the material into the crevice.

u/SecondaryLawnWreckin · 6 pointsr/Android

For a nice install, get a 3M primer 94 pen

I don't know where to just get one. Kind of a bummer to spend an additional $5 to install something correctly.

u/Stone-Bear · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

Hey guys,

You may have seen this post on /r/overwatch yesterday. I 3D printed this mask on my Monoprice Maker Select.

Used PLA, and basic settings in Cura (200/50 temp).

This is my recommended guide to finishing a 3D printed Prop for any one curious:

Rustoleum Filler Primer - Do 2 or 3 layers of this. Maybe more, you'll know if you need a layer or more. Do some sanding between layers.

I hate regular bondo, so I use Bondo Spot putty, this is what I used to fix everything else. Round out edges, add detail, and to smooth out. Lots and lots of sanding. I used several layers of Bondo spot putty, the trick is to lay it on thin, and do many layers. Don't get impatient and slather it on.

mask after one layer of primer & getting ready for paint

before visor & side view

u/OGL0K0 · 5 pointsr/subaru

Take your headlight out, remove bulbs/wires/screws, bake it in the oven for 20mins at 200degrees, pull it apart, and reseal.

Then place it back in the oven, same temp, for 10 minutes to warm it up and squeeze the two pieces nice and tight.

I recently painted the chrome trim of my headlights and the process wasn't hard. I used this black silicone sealant to make sure water stayed out.

u/mrflarp · 5 pointsr/knifeclub

The 0801 was discontinued as of June 1, so they should be starting to hit clearance prices. Kershawguy has it for $139 w/ free shipping and no sales tax. It is a great design. I've actually ended up with multiple of the different variants of this, but haven't had one of the "plain" ones. Maybe now is an opportune time to pick one up. ;)

As for the pivot coming loose, a bottle of threadlocker runs about $5 online or at your local hardware store. If you plan to be tinkering with your knives at some point, it's definitely worth picking one of these up. A single bottle will last you quite a long time.

u/Ehtacs · 5 pointsr/guns

Here's some of the things that are good to have on hand. A lot of it is newer since I'm replacing things I did not care for. Most, if not all, can be found on Amazon. Its a little list but hardly scratches the surface of crap that you can accumulate.

For shooting:

  • Eye pro - Best to have a case and alternate lenses are nice for indoor and outdoor range time. The most basic of eyewear will run you $20+ at ranges so get it ahead of time.

  • Indoor ear pro - Same as eye pro... These ran me $35+tax when I decided to double up on my outdoor ear pro at the range. Plenty comfortable!

  • Outdoor ear pro - Muffs can be hot outside, especially in the middle of summer, but luckily you often won't need to same level of protection. It can also be nice if your muffs get in the way of a good cheek weld on a stock. I've tried regular ear plugs and the Surefire plugs but nothing beats something form-fitted to your ear especially for marathon shooting events. Couple with muffs for more protection. These are still pretty new to me but I'm happy with them so far. Easy to form and make a noticeable after a while.

  • Targets - Splatter targets are amazing when youre working on marksmanship. You can easily see your hits from a distance and the contrast makes it easier for spotters to see your latest shot if you're looking through glass. These will also run you a significant premium if you buy at the range. Splatterburst targets are cheaper than Dirty Bird and, IMHO, more visible in indoor (darker) ranges. They're a great size up close for handguns and out to 70-100 yards for rifles. For plinking, just get the cheapest paper targets the range offers. You likely won't see your hits from a distance but, at that point, you probably don't really care.


  • Some good solvent - You can spend a long time scraping carbon. Good solvent will let you wipe it off with a rag. Breakfree CLP, in my experience, leads to more of the former.

  • Some lubricant - Opinions vary from person to person. I used to use Breakfree CLP as a lubricant all the time but there were certain sources indicating that it, like Frog-lube, is less than ideal in different ways. Slip won out among the bunches but I honestly couldn't tell you why. It was something regarding organic/synthetic compositions and temperatures coupled with anecdotal shit. Good one to Google if you're interested.

  • Some brushes - Good for detail cleaning that a rag wont handle. White brush is also fantastic for clearing crap out of the seams of an XBox controller.

  • Cleaning kit - I don't use it as much since I tried boresnakes but there are some good tools in here. Its compact since you use a cable to pull brushes but that means its no good for clearing jams. I'd get it again if I felt I needed a full kit but, again, I rarely use it.

  • Boresnakes - I remember people hating these (again, don't remember why) so I ignored them for the longest time. They're compact and make cleaning your barrel a breeze... Epic-ly better than running a small patch down your barrel. Almost entirely replaced my cleaning kit for most post-range cleaning. They have a small wire brush portion which you can floss back and forth with shorter barrels, too. Coupled with a good solvent, these fucking rock.

  • Nylon brushes - If you end up needing to run brushes down your barrel, it's probably good to not scratch the shit out of it. This was an impulsive buy but I don't regret giving Otis another $9 for their awesome products.

    Everything else:

  • Thread locker - If you get a collection going, there's a good chance you'll be playing with screws quite a bit. Lock down scope rings, set screws on sights, etc.

  • Anti-Seize - Completely necessary if you have multiple chokes for a shotgun and/or ever intend to use them.
u/bedgar · 5 pointsr/ElectricScooters

Get Loctite, put a little on the screw and screw it back in.

This is medium strength, it should be strong enough, but they do have heavy duty if you want to go all out.

u/ghrelly · 5 pointsr/cars

Ignore all the "purist hipsters" here, and do what you like

>How hard is it to apply?

Depending on which one you get. I would highly recommend the 3m Dinoc, because it has some sort of air channels that make it super easy to iron out bubbles. The regular stuff works also, but its not as easy to work with.

Overall vinyl is labor intensive, but not that hard to apply. I would order 2 sheets just in case you mess one up, and make sure they are larger than your hood with about 2 inch edge of extra material per side (in case you misalign, you want to have extra material). Best part is that its non-permanent, you can peel it off if you don't like it.

Things you need:

  • heat gun

  • Squeege

  • Xacto knives

  • 3m Primer for the edges.

  • WrapCut filament tape.

    >What are the basic steps?

    For the size of your hood, you definitely need a couple of people to help you. They need to hold the vinyl without the backing tape over the hood while you work from the edge and inside out smoothing out the bubbles

    You probablty want to have the hood off, makes your life easier, but you can manage with it on the car. If you ordered a sheet significantly bigger than your hood, you want to trim it to that 2 inch spec while the backing tape is still on.

    The way you do it is first, you apply the wrapcut tape to the underside of your hood, about a quarter inch from the edge - you definitely want to wrap the vinyl around all edges to the underside, because otherwise it will peel in hot weather. Then, with your friends holding the vinyl, start from the front, and work inside out to apply it. If you have any crevises in your hood, you definitely want to apply primer there.

    Get it all on except the edges. For the edges, apply the primer to an edge, and to the underside near the wrapcut tape. Heat the vinyl gently, and wrap it around the edge to the underside. When you have all 4 edges, wait about an hour for the glue to stick, then peel the wrapcut tape to get a clean edge. Trim anything you don't like with xacto knives.

    Youtube is your friend for specifics

    >Will it last?

    If you get the edges and crevises correctly, absolutely. Otherwise it will peel. The vinyl is a pretty robust material, it can handle washes and heat. If you have little dents, what may happen is that in super hot weather you will get a small flat bubble that forms if the air heats up in that void enough, however, you can just take a needle and deflate it.

    >Is it worth it?

    All up to you. Its not glossy, but it does look like carbon fiber.

    >Is it fine to get some for cheap on eBay?

    The cheap CF vinyl is shit. It won't stick as well, and will probably tear. If you are gonna do it, do it right with the 3m stuff.
u/El_Zalo · 5 pointsr/snowboarding
u/pjor1 · 4 pointsr/Cartalk

It says medium strength, "for when disassembly is common"

So I was doin it right then

u/testingapril · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

This stuff works great:

recommended by homebrewfinds, I've done several kegs with it and had no problems. Just follow the package directions, and it's set in probably 15-30 mins I think.

u/thiosk · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

oh my! Thank you for the detailed info and for providing technical information. For the lags, i'm still coming familiar with the vocabulary here- would that be a product like the SDW EWP-Ply Screw?

Some of that is higher level than im potentially capable of this summer I think, so I'll start with the spirals.


For the locktite, I presume we'd want to use a product like this


Thank you again for the suggestions!

u/jdubbs92 · 4 pointsr/snowboarding

I'd recommend trying Vibratite. I use it on my binding hardware (normal disk bindings).

The reason why companies advise against the use of Loctite is that it is not safe for plastics. If plastic is exposed to Loctite, it will cause a chemical reaction that will literally melt the plastic as if it was on fire.

Vibratite is safe for plastics, and is not pernament. Vibratite will help absorb the vibrations and chatter that work fasteners loose while snowboarding.

u/rocketbosszach · 4 pointsr/amazonreviews

Loctite TITEFOAM Insulating Foam Sealant, One 12 Ounce Can (1988753)

u/blatant-disregard · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Here's what comes to my mind.

The big ones:



Mega Hobby

Lucky Model (Hong Kong)

HobbyLink Japan (Japan)

Hannants (UK)

Smaller shops:

MidTenn hobbies

Roll Models

Great Models

and since you are looking for tools specifically, I'll add

Micro-Mark (pricey, but WOW)

I'm not going to plug any of the listed sites other than to say I have ordered from every one at least once and have had no bad experiences with any of them. As for pricing, sorry to have to tell you but there's no single answer to that one. Prices vary widely between shops and depending on the item you are looking for. Normally the best thing to do is to just shop around.

I'd say to just head to Squadron and get what you need (to browse, just go to Search and hit the Type pulldown). Even if they aren't the cheapest on some stuff, it's not going to be that much of a difference, especially on supplies. Plus their shipping is reasonable and you'll then be on their mailing list which will net you a nice flyer/catalog in your mailbox every month that's great bathroom reading material.

Putty & sandpaper: go to a local shop that sells auto-body supplies (Even something like Autozone will do in a pinch). Get a tube of Bondo Glazing & Spot Putty (or you can apparently save $131,069.71 on it at Amazon, WTF?). That one tube will last you for years. You can also typically get sheets of wet-or-dry sandpaper down to around 10000 grit (in the good places).

Lastly, if you have a decent flea-market near you, head on over there and look for the folks selling used dental tools. You can find all kinds of useful implements digging through their stuff: scribers, scalpels, tweezers, tiny spatulas (for putty), and much more.


u/disposable-assassin · 3 pointsr/cosplayers

What kind of pits and holes we talking about here? If its what I'm thinking of they're small and from air bubbles mixed into the bondo while combining the red catalyst. If that's the case, I usually have those as well and finish with glazing &spotting putty to fill those.

u/andysaurus_rex · 3 pointsr/3DS

Damn... Does the screen still work? Is there any damage on the other side? I doubt Nintendo will do anything about it because it's a LE, so you can either A) sell it at a severe loss B) try and do a home repair with some sort of filling glue and paint. Maybe something like this and some gold paint that you go over with some clear lacquer. Won't ever look the same, but if you put a Hori TPU case over it, then it might not be so obvious.

u/mircolino · 3 pointsr/thinkpad

Loctite Purple would be even better for such a small thread. Both will work, just use very little.

u/Hotrian · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

  1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
  2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
  3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
  4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
  5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).

    There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:

  • Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  • 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  • Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  • A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  • An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  • A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  • Small bags (for silica beads),
  • PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  • Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  • SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  • Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  • Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  • Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  • E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  • Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  • Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  • And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...

    Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..

    ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!
u/JutNob · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

If you are using nuts and bolts, I'd recommend Threadlocker Blue (It's available at auto and hardware stores too) it's common name is Permatex. It's a liquid silicone that you coat the threads of the screw with, right before put the nuts on to secure the plate. It fills the the threads, dries quickly, and prevents loosening from vibration.

Good luck.

u/mingy · 3 pointsr/Toyota

Go to an autoparts store. Explain the seal coming off: they have a special urethane adhesive made expressly for that. I've bought in the past. This isn't the one I used but it is similar.

For the hydraulic lifter, they are real easy to replace, basically a clip to pry aside (at least on all my Toyotas). Here's a video for a Prius but yours is probably similar. You can un-clip the old one, bring it to the store and get a replacement (or just tell them the make and model and they'll give it to you).

Try do it yourself. Worse case you'll have to ask somebody if you can't. Its real easy.

u/TrouserPudding · 3 pointsr/Cartalk

>I rolled the window down, then looked over and saw this when I tried to roll it up again.

Wow.....I'm impressed. I've never seen that before.

But they are just glued into a metal channel attached to the window regulator that moves them up and down. There are a couple of adhesives for this, but the one you'll likely be able to use is 3M Window Weld. The professional adhesives will require pre heat. And this should work just fine. I've used it because I don't install glass for a living and don't have something to heat a tube of crap like the pro stuff requires.

Get it on there and roll the window up until it dries/cures (whichever it does). At least a day to be sure. Then you know the window is in the right orientation to roll up all the way and seal.

As other posters have said, you'll need to pull the "door card" (all the trim inside) off to access this.

I have to say again.....just wow. I had no idea they made them this badly.

u/Unusual_Steak · 3 pointsr/MTB

I transitioned into working on my bikes almost entirely by myself (Wheel building/suspension service/bearings excluded) and this is the exact path I went down as well. Here is everything I bought from Amazon:

The same $50 tool kit

Torque wrench

Cable/housing/wire cutter

Chain/quick link pliers

Wet/Dry Chain lubes

Park Tool grease


Blue Loctite

Carbon grip paste

And some additional small things like cables, cable end caps, ferrules, zip ties, etc. A set of needle nose pliers can be handy to help push/pull stubborn cables/housings as well.

Also, to make working on the bike 10x easier, I recommend getting a stand. I use this one because I am space constrained and it folds up nice and small, but there are probably better ones out there.

It seems like a lot of $$ to lay out at first, but it pays for itself pretty quickly compared to taking the bike to a shop every time you need to do something to it. Basically everything you need to do can be found on YouTube as well.

u/franciscomor · 3 pointsr/balisong

Probably. could be wrong though. Regardless it's pretty cheap.

Here is a relatively cheap supply list:

Loctite Blue 242:

Nano-Oil 10 weight:


There are probably better torques but l think these will work. I have a $45 set so I didn't think that is really cheap lol

u/Rybo_Flavin · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I use Loctite blue threadlocker. It will hold it in place, but will still allow you to remove the bat when you actually want to remove it.

Any auto parts store has it or here is the amazon link.

u/Averageboi · 3 pointsr/paintball

I'd use more than just a drop with that stuff. Personally, I'd put enough to make sure two to three threads of the fitting are covered. Your stuff isn't as strong needs more.

When people say they used loctite, they're usually talking about the blue stuff which is different. link:

u/baileysinashoe · 3 pointsr/wicked_edge

Specifically, marine grade epoxy.

u/roaf · 3 pointsr/fordfusion

Just get this:

Then get a can of this:

The issue with tri coats is it is almost impossible to blend within the color which white is hardest since it gives off the most hues.

If you ran over a tire the underneath of your car is the bigger issue. That underbody shield can actually cost quite a bit to replace and if you ever get an oil change they are going to wonder where it is.

So I would just get a paint scratch kit and then worry about repainting the whole bumper later.

The tri coat paint costs more in a can but its not like BMW prices and if a shop gives you an issue about blending to the rest of the car I would just say fuck it. I have never seen a tri white that was perfectly blended even from the factory and on white its harder to blend but its harder to tell a bad job too.

u/stu2211 · 3 pointsr/projectcar

This might help in giving you some direction, though I'm not sure if it's exactly what you're looking for:

The mesh is used as the backing to reinforce the split, the epoxy is basically used like bondo for plastics, sandable with low grit sandpaper.

I used it when I removed some emblems on my rear bumper and needed to fill in the holes, it worked perfectly. The bumper itself was pretty messed up, with random marks and divets where other drivers have gone into the rear, license plate first. The epoxy worked great as a filler, I was able to restore the shape and make it smooth without much effort. That said, I'm not sure how well it'll work if you're stitching together 3-4 inches of side skirt together, though I can see it holding its shape together, especially if it's not in a high traffic area.

u/illigal · 3 pointsr/cars

cheap fix: headliner/carpet spray adhesive:

more expensive fix: replace the panel. They're usually cheap from a facebook group for your car (people parting crashed/broken cars), or you can spend a little more

u/zeekiz · 3 pointsr/perth

Peel back the headliner in the affected area and use some adhesive spray. Try and get something that's designed for headliners.


u/DriveTurkey · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

My Haves:

Padded motorcycle underwear. Beaded seat cover. open toed shoes/sandals to let your feet breath on rest stops. Healthy snacks so you're not buying gas station garbage every time.

Chin skirt. Pin lock. lightweight balaclava. 5 pairs of good earplugs. comfortable in-ear headphones. Lots of podcasts. Nanotips

Heated grips. Heated jacket. a plan for how to get completely waterproof (you+your bike) on the side of the road at a moments notice. Ram mount for your phone. Valentine One radar detector and Visual Alert. Analog tire pressure gauge with blowoff valve. Threadlocker stick. A tank bag that is comfy to lean on. electrical tape. Zip ties. bungee cord. Chain lube. Extra hex wrenches so you can quickly tighten bolts.

u/wade001 · 3 pointsr/Hue

what are the back of TV's generally made of? im guessing its a low surface energy plastic, which would ideally need a primer or adhesion promoter for the adhesive to stick properly.

3M makes a variety of adhesion promoter/primer for their tape products.

i have some laying around the house, because of automotive uses.. but something like can be used on low energy and high energy surfaces

or these sponge pads

sometimes sold under the 4298 number:

u/Jeeper1234 · 3 pointsr/Challenger

as /u/stealthcoyote said, they go on with double sided tape. The thing is, proper prep is essential in order for them to stick over the long term. The louvers come with a small tube of 3M Adhesion Primer. But I found that single little tube was not enough for proper prep. So I bought two 3-packs on amazon So I had 7 tubes total, and ended up using 6 of them.

So if you do decide to buy those louvers, do yourself a favor and buy extra adhesion primer ahead of time. I was already into my install when I realized that there wasn't enough in that tube for a proper prep. And had to put everything away, and wait for the Amazon delivery.

u/Gshock720 · 3 pointsr/knifeclub
u/Pleased_to_meet_u · 3 pointsr/HondaCB

You're in luck. I've broken those pegs off before, too. The fix is easy, but it's going to cost. It's going to cost you all of about eight bucks.

This is for the broken peg. Clean the area of the peg and the sidecover. Scuff the hell out of it with high-grit sandpaper. If you don't have any, cut it up in a cross hatch pattern with a sharp knife. Don't cut all the way through (!) but you want the surface really scuffed up so the epoxy can get in all the little crevaces and hold everything together.

Once it's cleaned, clean it with brake cleaner or acetone or something that makes sure to get any oils out. (Or skip this step. I have before. If you're unlucky and you skip it, you'll have problems.)

Put epoxy on both surfaces, push the peg into exactly the right place then goop a ton on at the seams and up the sides of the peg. You want enough so that it changes the slope going up a bit - don't be stingy.

I don't have experience with the emblem, but I can't imagine it's much different.

I haven't used that exact product that I linked, but any plastic-specific two part epoxy should do the trick. Not any two-part epoxy, but any that's specifically for plastic.

Good luck! When you finally finish the repair, reply to this comment and let me know how it went. It's going to be fine!

u/HandymanBrandon · 3 pointsr/HomeMaintenance

This stuff will work for you. It sticks to everything so go easy with it, and wear gloves.

u/nubbinator · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you want it to look professional, you'll have to put some time into it. Get yourself some Bondo (or spot putty) and a mixed grit sandpaper kit and start filling in the gaps. After that, sand down the case so that paint will stick to it and apply auto body spray paint to it. Do a few coats to get a nice ever coating and let it dry then, if you want, you can put different sealants/finishes on it get it matte or shiny.

Of course, that's a lot of work, but it's the only way that will look "professional".

u/cartesian_jewality · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Thanks for the response!

Yea, on the lower end of the bumper it was pierced. I'll go ahead and clean the hole out before I fill it then probable 2000 grit wet sand the area.

What do you reccomend for areas like this?

This is the type of filler I picked up, how well will this look painted?

u/Moeparker · 2 pointsr/FixMyPrint

To repair models I use:

Now I just tried that on the HelmetFull and it did not fix the gaps. That's just missing parts of the model.

For gaps like that I'd use the spot putty.

I use that to fill in the big gaps. Then spray on primer, sand, spray again, etc. The way I finish my parts is as follows:

I fill holes, then spray primer, 3 coats. 120 grit sandpaper over all of it, pretty good pressure.

Then 2 more coats after I dust it off. Then medium pressure sanding with 220 grit sandpaper.

Then 2 more coats with medium pressure sanding using 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.

1 more coat, then light sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper. By the time I'm done my 3D prints are smooth as glass.

Far as the model itself, I used Rhino 3D to model and looks like it's easy to grab each piece and "export selected" as it's own file.

If you wanted to you can get a 90 day free trial of Rhino 3D from their website. Full version for 3 months, free. That's how I was able to play with it and decide it's the software i wanted.

I might be able to save all those armor pieces as individual pieces. Seems fast enough. ...ok yeah it was.

That SHOULD be a google drive shared folder. idk, never used it before.

31 items, should be all the armor pieces from neck to toes.

Good luck

u/theCaitiff · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I like Durham's Water Putty. It is cheap, fills the grain, easy to sand, doesn't shrink, cures hard, and is easy to find at most big box home stores. It's a tan powder, add water until it is peanut butter consistency and it is ready to sand in 20 minutes.

To me, Bondo doesn't sand as well. Add to that frustration, you have to mix bondo with a curing agent to get it to harden.

Air drying spot putty can be a little trickier to find but is a favorite of some people. As the name implies, it does not need any additional during agents.

I do NOT recommend regular wood filler. Unlike Durham's, it will shrink and pull away from your parts, potentially ruining your finish a week or two after you declare it "done".

u/Lord_swarley · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

For the screw sizes typically found on multirotors I actually recommend the purple kind.

u/ohwowgee · 2 pointsr/1022

Small gun related tip.

Loctite is your BEST friend. Anything that unscrews, or loosens with a thread on it, should get a small dab. Purple is lighter than Blue (Red is the strongest). If you're worried about the strength of the screw head, use Purple. \

Use screwdrivers that are "hollow ground". Meaning, for a flat bit, they should not be shaped like normal screwdrivers. A normal screwdriver actually usually looks more like a wedge than an straight block being inserted into the screw head. Here's a nice picture:

You don't have to run out and buy fancy screwdrivers. Grab a metal file, and carefully file the sides of a cheap bit so it is more square. Keeps your screws pretty.

Last bit of advice, Dremels work really REALLY quick. Be careful!

You can put a trigger stop yourself if you'd like, that will reduce the overtravel. Check this out:

Have fun, stay safe!

u/Nibroc99 · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Definitely do the shocks and brakes yourself! You'll save yourself nearly a thousand dollars and they really aren't even that hard to do with common hand tools.

How to replace brake pads and rotors

How to replace shock absorbers

How to replace struts (if this is what your car has rather than separate shocks and springs)

You really shouldn't need a full brake system flush for a car that's this new, but if you really want to...

The alignment will need to be done by a professional though, but all the other stuff can be done yourself for probably $150-200. You'll learn a ton about how your car works and how to fix it, and you'll probably get a lot of supplies that you didn't know you needed, like silicone paste lubricant for the brake guide pins, copper anti-sieze, and thread locker, all supplies that can be used for many, many different things, not just this one brake job!

I hope this all is helpful. I've been doing this stuff at home for many years so feel free to reach out if you need any help at all.

u/potussanta · 2 pointsr/Watches

Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml

I’ve had no problem using this from mountain bike parts to pens. It’s not the original loctite brand but should do the job!

u/NoSatellite · 2 pointsr/applehelp

Protip- if you do choose to remove the cover, put some blue thread locker on the screws before you replace them.

u/Coreycry · 2 pointsr/fpvracing

Frame: Realacc x210 V+
I have the non-V+ but the size isn't easy to build with, it required to mount the PDB flat, not on stand-offs.
4mm is pretty strong, a good choice for starting.

FPV cam: there are no bad choices, only preferences (PAL vs NTSC / CMOS vs CCD / IR block vs IR sensitive), this Swift will do fine.

Motors: Racerstar 2205 2300KV
2300KV gives you more torque, thus more compatibility with any propellers you want to try, see props section.
You'll choose 2600KV when/if you feel the need to, after more experience flying.

ESC: Racerstar RS30A V2 Blheli_S
Blheli_S is mandatory if building new: compatible with Multishot and Dshot in some extent, start with Multishot though.
20A would do fine I'm sure, but I'll choose 30A because Chinese-numbers and price difference.

PDB: Matek-clone with 5V/12V/Current Sensor
It's so cheap and do the job, integrated current sensor, XT-60 connector at the back.
Buy this XT-60 if mounting battery on the side.

FC: Omnibus F3 clone
OSD is integrated, and works well with the PDB above to read Current Sensor. This Youtube playlist is also nice when starting

Antenna: Anything really, small or long, you'll break them a lot so don't go too expensive right now.
Bear ind mind:
-first fly with this, it still works at fair-enough range and very durable.
-buy the same "type" of antennas: RHCP with RHCP, LHCP with LHCP. Don't mix them and label them if needed!
-5.8GHz for the video, 2.4GHz for your radio/remote.
-look at your video transmitter (Vtx) connector : RP-SMA/SMA-male/female
-buy multiple adapters, you never know when you'll need them.

Props: Science now! Propellers go according to your motors (torque) and also the battery (3S vs 4S), that's for the future, obviously they all fly (and break) at the end.
KingKong 5040 bi-blade are known to be cheap, good and durable.
-Tri-blades are heavier than Bi-blades, 2300KV motors can even bear Quad-blades.
-Bi-blades generally allow more room for unballanced propellers.
Need balancing your props?

Charger: Genuine Imax B3 = need to buy a power supply.
Fake Imax B3 = it works fine, no need to buy power supply.

Battery: There is debate to whether start 3S vs 4S, you could buy 4S now and be gentle on the throtlle.. but do you trust yourself?
I'd start with two 3S until I can do powerloops with confidence, and that's not today.
Get cheap at roughly $30 each, and around 1500mAh to get the most flight time/experience, forget lightweight ultra expensive 100C fake-rating 900mAh like you were racing for $2,000 championship.

Video Transmitter: preferably small & power adjustable, 25mW when flying with others and 200mW when flying alone.
DO NOT turn on 600mW it will simply burn unless you fly very fast all the time, when cold..
Also never power the copter without an antenna, Vtx will also cook.

Goggles: check if it accepts both PAL and NTSC, depending your camera.

Radio receiver: depends on your radio transmitter/remote obviously, I'd suggest going FrSky if you're naked. Check the difference between Mode1 & Mode2 before buying, Google will help.
No money and geek: Devo7e + FrSky/small toys multi-module, can control FrSky & TinyWhoop-like toys but requires some good knowledge on hacking/soldering/configuration.
No money and newbie: Turnigy Evolution is having some hype recently, but does not work with FrSky receivers. You probably need to open this link twice for it to work btw.

M5 size nylocks cuz the aluminum stock ones suck.
Blue Loctite or similar cuz vibrations will loosen the screws.
M3 screws cuz you never have the right size.
M3 nylon stand-offs cuz they break in crashes, you can get a pack of different sizes too.
75W soldering iron and it's the minimum, in this hobby you'll prolly want a station (you'll find good-enough ones at $60 on Amazon)

u/shifty21 · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

The monoprice stands are great. I bought 2 dual screen mounts to put on my lab's work bench. I got ones with the articulationg arm. The one that ovaltineEuroFormula will work for what you want.

Pro Tip: do yourself a favor and get a bunch of washer, LocTite and these type of thumb screws

I makes for taking on and off monitor tool less. The washers help spread the weight of the monitors. And the LocTite helps keep the bolts in. I do performance automotive work on the side as a hobby and I use that stuff on everything.

I didn't do any of that when I first did the install and regretted it once we started moving the articulating arm around and the bolts started to loosen a bit. Replaced everything from above and no problems for over a year and a half of use/abuse.

u/blujeh · 2 pointsr/applehelp

I would take the bottom cover off and blow the dust out of the two fans. I have to do this once every 6 months or so because of pet hair. Even if the vents are exposed you may have dust or hair caught in the back of the vents on the inside. Make sure you get some of this to put on the screws because once you take them off they seem to wiggle loose over time.

u/Mn2511 · 2 pointsr/ft86

Read on the forums that it's usually a tail light gasket issue and applied this sealant on both gasket surfaces and that solved the issues.

3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive Tube - 5 oz.

Also even the aftermarket tail lights can have this issue with the gasket.

u/convbcuda · 2 pointsr/Ultralight
u/axiumone · 2 pointsr/overclocking

This is the stuff you need.

In case you ever need to delid it again. It'll come apart just like the stock stuff.

u/Chungallo · 2 pointsr/PontiacSolstice

No prob! Me personally I would go with this:

3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Black Cartridge - 10.5 fl oz.

u/chriskatana · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

3M Window Weld works best.

u/pellicle_56 · 2 pointsr/ElectricScooters

I could be mistaken (not owing one of them) but they seem to be entirely involved with holding on nothing more than a plastic "decorative trim", in which case as long as they get a few turns into metal its all good.

Make sure you put a drop of permatex blue on it when re-assembling (eg this), get it from where ever is convenient, and any decent hardware shop near you should have it. Make sure you get that and not a high strength one.

u/ChristophColombo · 2 pointsr/MTB

You want Loctite 243 - the oil-resistant version of normal Blue Loctite (242). This is basically the same thing.

u/climategadgets · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Pick "surface insensitive" a.k.a. "oil resistant" while you're at it. About the same price, but much more universal. Also, in some cases gel is more convenient. Here's the stuff I use:

u/BabySpinach · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

I just did/am doing my headliner (need to put it back in) this week and I used Permatex Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive. It's item #27828, bright orange can with a blue top. Seems to work great! I used just under 2 cans for my main headliner board. You should get some high quality headliner foam. Usually local upholstery places will have it in sheets. Just avoid any kind of heavy and/or non foam backed material (if you want it to last and look nice) and you should be fine. Also, remember to get a star bit for the rear seat belts. You can get one at Autozone.. I think it was 45 but I can't remember exactly off the top of my head.

Here's the adhesive. You can get it at any car store:

I've made an album with my current headliner progress, just to give you an idea.

As you can see in the pictures, the spray is pretty heavy duty. Hope this helps.

u/kramithefrog · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

Headliner adhesive.

Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner and Carpet Adhesive Aerosol Can, 16.75 oz

u/csteezenuts · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Gotcha! Well as long as it’s the ‘blue’ threadlock one your all set👍 heres an example

u/oldtoolfool · 2 pointsr/handtools

No problem grasshopper. Those stems are actually hard to remove, so congratulations. This makes it easier for the knob issue, now you can soak it in kero laced with PB and it will come, you can also mount the stem in a vice (use scrap wood or leather to protect the threads. As to the stem, clean it well, then when you reinsert it use some Loctite and it will be fine. Vintage tool restoration is not for the faint of heart. Again, patience, and you will overcome.....

u/RyanNichols121 · 2 pointsr/Tools

Also for the screw on your towel hanger, try getting some Loctite.

u/JayStax · 2 pointsr/ElectricScooters

Loctite* lock down your bolts. tight. :P

u/joseconseco999 · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Not a dumb question exactly, you're just not putting in the effort!

Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single

Google is your friend :)

u/Syren__ · 2 pointsr/FidgetSpinners

everyone in the forums is using blue loctite for their bearings because they would like to remove them at some point again to clean or replace the bearing. I would recommend using that to seat the bearing.

u/ACroff · 2 pointsr/magnetfishing

I also recommend this. Optionally, a five gallon bucket and an ice scraper for scraping small parts off your magnet also come in handy. Most importantly, have fun!

u/VisibleEvidence · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

That's the same slate we used on our film. It's a fine piece of kit that Does The Job. The 'color bars' are just ink printed and wear off over a month's use (see pic). It's the same kit you get on Amazon, they're just shipping directly from China.

Pro Tip: Put Loctite on the screws at the hinge of the sticks. They don't have washers and they fall off during production.

u/RoadRunner-007 · 2 pointsr/razer

Go buy some thread locker or something like it. Take the screws out, put a little on and you shouldn't have this problem anymore. This stuff:

u/user7 · 2 pointsr/multicopterbuilds

I don't think that is the right loctite. That stuff is super glue not threadlocker. Threadlocker isn't permanent like super glue.
I personally use the blue.

u/JohnBooty · 2 pointsr/headphones

I have those stands too. They're nice!

If they're wobbly for you, I would recommend unscrewing it and dabbing a little Loctite on the screws. Worked wonders for me. Handy stuff to have around in general, saves my butt a few times per year.

u/Singular_Thought · 2 pointsr/onewheel

You need to use Threadlocker when you put any screw, nut or bolt into a machine that will experience vibration.

Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single

u/pizzaazzip · 2 pointsr/balisongs

I don't have any balisongs with screws but I've seen around this subreddit people recommending blue loctite and roughly following the procedure outlined this video. I've used this product on many types of small screws like knives and it seems to work well (even though the tube is red, it is the blue specification).

I upvoted you so hopefully someone with experience could either disprove me or back me up.

u/Dreble · 2 pointsr/nissanfrontier

I had the same problem. I put a little loctite on mine and left off the lock washer.

u/pleikunguyen · 2 pointsr/ElectricSkateboarding

Yep, no new gear or anything needed.
Keep in mind you have to swap out the AT gear and and retension belts when swapping to the street gear.

By the way, buy this before your board arrives.

I swapped from AT to Street and unlocked some of the screws too far so I lost the loctite and my tension would come loose in 30 seconds of riding and I'd be like UGH and then I had to uber home. Today after 12 hours of sealing it, 11 miles and tension is still great

u/Palerthanghosts · 2 pointsr/Glocks

I got this, this, this, and this. If you're doing it only once then it may be worth it, but if you're gonna do it for multiple sights then you might wanna get the tools.

u/phototristan · 2 pointsr/boostedboards

Be sure to clean the screw threads first with acetone. This will remove any old Loctite or dirt so that the new Loctite will adhere. Use Blue Loctite: but only a small amount, don't over do it.

u/Blobwad · 2 pointsr/boating

This is not the technically correct fix, but I've used J-B Weld on my 1993 fiberglass boat that had similar damage. It's not a pretty fix, though it would look better on your grey boat than my white one. It's a marine epoxy that I mixed up and "patched" the area. If it's on the bottom of the boat no one is going to see it anyways. It's 20 years old - it's not worth doing the proper repair. I'm on my second season and it looks the same as the day I did the patch.

My boat came with the damage and the previous owner drove it without it spreading as /u/LikesGladiatorMovies suggested. I wouldn't guaranty yours will hold up the same but that is my experience.

u/jive-ass-turkey · 2 pointsr/mechanics

[That stuff just so happens to be on sale (-$3) at Amazon right now for $11.99 shipped w Prime. FYI.]( via @amazon)

u/1968camaro · 2 pointsr/autorepair

Here..…. ya go

You need to get all of the old off first. And wipe it down with solvent[KEEP IT OFF THE PAINT!!!!!] Perhaps tape the area off first

u/SnowThrasher · 2 pointsr/projectcar

Youtube will help you install and remove. Basically like /u/th7957 says you get a wire between the window frame and glass and cut the seal to get the glass out. Then you have the fun endeavor of cleaning the old gasket/sealant out.

Check out part suppliers that specialize in that vehicle for that window seal if it is available. It is more common to use window adhesive but I personally would rather use the correct gasket if it is an option. My guess is you will end up using the adhesive though.

u/alwayzthinkin · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

3M makes the best. Clean all the crap off the body and the window before putting new glue on it. Let the glue setup a little before installing the window or it will be a slippery mess.

u/kevinpdx · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

Thank you! So I just removed everything, the dash lid and the center console lid; fortunately they both had a separate section underneath that could be unscrewed where I was able to tuck away the excess fabric. I cleaned it really well with 99% isopropyl alcohol (this discolored the vinyl or whatever it was, so if you intend on taking it off and going back to stock I would advise to maybe just use dish soap). I found the fabric I wanted - Pendleton wool which is a high quality wool from the Pacific Northwest if you haven't heard of it. Since it is constantly exposed to sun, I would advise going with a higher quality fabric in hopes it would minimize fading quickly. After cleaning the area, I used Elmers Craftbond Adhesive but if I do it again I would use something stronger like a 3M product... maybe even 3M Headliner and Fabric Adhesive. Spray that over the large surface area where you will be applying the fabric, you have a little time before it sets so spray and apply your fabric but get it centered and positioned where you want rather quickly --- this is the time you will also want to stretch it out to avoid ripples in the fabric. Finally I used a hot glue gun but any craft Adhesive would work to secure the fabric corners and edges that were tucked away under the cosmetic area -- again I was able to unscrew a plastic piece where I applied the hot glue/adhesive to secure the fabric better. I cut away the excess fabric and screwed it all together which also helped make the fabric taut. Be generous with the initial aerosol fabric adhesive on the cosmetic side - depending on how thick the fabric is you might want to be careful to not soak a thin fabric with it. I used enough that I could slightly feel the adhesive through the wool but it didn't affect anything. The corners were tough, but I let the spray adhesive dry and it allowed me to pull on it to make it a lot more taut which got the ripples out as well as letting me square the edges and apply the hot glue. Sorry for making this super long - I might be making it sound difficult, but it actually was really easy to do. Shit now that I think about it, I used some forum walk through to do it - I'll try to find it and post an edit with it.

Edit: fixed links and added walk through I found on a Subaru forum, he used seat fabric from an STI but go to any fabric store and pick out your own! You could probably also add a foam layer in between to pad your elbow - I'm sure you could also find that at a fabric store or even Amazon. My next project is actually to go to my wood elf father in law and make a modified center console lid and then wrap that with Pendleton wool, I want to add a cup holder and a few other things - maybe an area to stash my CB and some camping gear.

u/Sh1fty3yedD0g · 2 pointsr/Volvo

Spend $15 and fix it the right way... you're welcome..

3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz.

u/Allehagelnjuif · 2 pointsr/Volkswagen

I would scrap off the foam. I would worry about the long term adhesion if you don't.

Use the 3M spray. 3M 38808 Headliner and Fabric Adhesive - 18.1 oz.

Also, get some sort of roller to smooth everything out.

u/walkersm · 2 pointsr/mechanics

Headliner material is very thin so any heavy adhesive will bleed through. THought I heard of one available at craft stores that is very good and does not bleed through fabric.

Maybe something specific for it like:

u/jsamhead · 2 pointsr/knifeclub
u/acewingman · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Once they "bottom out" I would snug them up with a screwdriver. Another option is to use threadlocker such as to prevent them from coming loose. Be careful how tight you make them as they do break rather easy.

u/sinefine · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

filling primer will take forever to fill that.

Use either this:

or this:

Pros and Cons of both materials:

Bondo hardens like a brick in 30 minutes and very easy to fill gaps and to sand it away. But it is harmful if you breathe in too much so you need an organic gas mask and eye protection.

Perfect Putty isnt that hard when it dries but it is not harmful. But it is water soluble so you need to seal it after.

u/rilesjenkins · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I don't really have good advice for you there. I've been using this stuff simply because my roommate had it on hand. It's not the easiest to work with but it's been getting the job done. The Punished Props YouTube channel has some good tips for spot filling. One of which is mixing super glue with baking soda (I think) to make it more of a paste. I'm considering giving that a try eventually.

u/PowerUpProps · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/Kromulent · 1 pointr/knifeclub

Purple is for fasteners 1/4 in diameter and below. That's typical for most knives. Lots of people use blue, it's a bit stronger but still OK.

u/cubedjjm · 1 pointr/rccars

Have you tried thread locker? Locktite 222 purple is a good "won't go anywhere". Blue 243 is "won't go anywhere without force". Red 263 is "the screw will NOT come out without heat or EXTREAM force. Do not use Red on small screws. Blue is what I use regularly, and haven't ever had any problems in the 20 years of use. Each bottle will last you years if you use occasionally(aren't in manufacturing). I've never used a whole bottle before losing it.

Check out their own website if you want, and message if you have any questions. Have a good one.

u/StillMind2010 · 1 pointr/rccars

The blue stuff is most common - you'll find it anywhere, but I find it's too strong for some small screws (like the ones you find in RC cars) , so I've stripped out a few screw heads and started looking for another solution.

The one I ended up getting is the Loctite 222 "low strength", which is purple. I ordered it form and had it delivered to me in Canada (east of Toronto):

If you do use the blue, use the smallest amount possible and you should be OK. And only use the stuff on metal to metal - it apparently doesn't like plastic.

For what it's worth, I'm the only guy I've come across in the dozens of people I RC with who uses the purple stuff. That's how rare it is. LOL

u/nonothing · 1 pointr/DartsTalk

If one truly wishes to use aluminum/Ti stems is there any reason not to use a thread locker like Loctite Blue or better yet Purple (222). It seems with ORings and Teflon tape the stem still loosens after a few rounds of throwing. With some thread locker you have a real aversion to release from the vibrations of a dart landing.

Worst case you have to remove it. With blue you'll surely need a tool to remove the shaft. Purple could be undone by hand, especially with shafts that have the hole through them to tighten with another dart.

u/taiguy · 1 pointr/longrange
u/prs117 · 1 pointr/mac

They put a purple/blue material on the screw called lock tight. My screws were coming out so I purchased it from Amazon or home depot. Amazon lock tight link

u/Thanks_for_that_too · 1 pointr/Trucks


This: Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single

Versus this: Permatex 24200 Medium Strength Threadlocker Blue, 6 ml

Which do you recommend?

u/teholbugg · 1 pointr/frugalmalefashion

i don't know if this would solve it, or is okay to use on glasses/plastic, but my first thought was to try this stuff:

u/reboticon · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

What I do when I have an actual gasket I am worried about moving is use a product by 3m called Weatherstrip adhesive, lay the gasket on it and then stick the bolts through and let it sit for 5-10 minutes. Its not thick like RTV its just an adhesive so for tricky installs it is super helpful. You may not need it at all, just a handy tip.

u/Liluben · 1 pointr/DelSol

Swapped my 93's seals for some off a 96. Use lots of lube where the seals sit and on top of the seals to make sure they dont dry out on you and crack.

Get this 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue down the corners on the seals where the factory stuff was. This also works to glue the rubber together wherever theres a rip or crack. 10/10 product

u/11lariat · 1 pointr/Trucks

I've always used 3M weatherstripping adhesive. Amazon carries it, but I usually get it from my local parts place.

Not sure what to recommend for the back panels. Silicone caulk isn't going to be super durable though.

u/cornrichard · 1 pointr/motorcycles
u/pacoliketaco · 1 pointr/DIY

This stuff:

works great for rubber to metal. I use it a lot at work for small little things.

u/Travoli · 1 pointr/travel

It's really easy and inexpensive to make them. Check this out. Instead of sewing them, I used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive and magnetic strips.

u/Battle_Rattle · 1 pointr/Ultralight

If they can't or won't it's exceedingly easy to do. Get this, thin it with mineral spirits to the consistency of thick tomato sauce, and apply.

u/cwcoleman · 1 pointr/CampingGear

Best seam sealer:


I'd question the need for a tent 'waterproofing spray'. Do you really need it? Is the tent not waterproof on it's own? It should be. If the tent is not waterproof - you should consider getting a new tent. A spray will be a poor bandaid on a major problem.

u/atetuna · 1 pointr/camping

Gear Aid has some seam sealant products. Their silicone based sealant is for ultralight tents made with silnylon fabric. If your tent isn't made with silnylon, then your tent fabric has a urethane coating that should be seam sealed with their urethane based sealant.

Some people with silnylon tents prefer to make their own by mixing mineral spirits and GE Silicone II. That's partially because they want some extra to paint stripes on their tent floor so they don't slide around as much.

u/turtleknifefight · 1 pointr/Bushcraft

I've been using a bearpawwd 8x10 for a couple seasons and I am extremely satisfied. Do not use 550 cord for a tarp. It stretches way too much. Silnylon is already very stretchy and your tarp will sag a lot. Use a very low stretch poly line to secure your tarp. My preference is lawson glowire. I use bowline knots, taut line hitches and occasionally clove hitches. Make sure to seal the non perimeter tieouts as these have a tendency to leak when stretched.

Finally and most importantly is practice. My first couple pitches were rubbish. But, when you get the hang of it and start getting creative you can do just about anything with a tarp.

u/rockayama · 1 pointr/myog

I think it's a great idea to make your first pack with cheap ($$) stuff, and then spend money on later packs, once you've gained some knowledge, techniques, and preferences on what you like in a pack.

So, to address the other comments, presumably - I say, because I haven't tried it - you could use some fray-stop on your seams to help them hold. Maybe silicon seam sealer?

For the water, you could try and apply water resistance with a Wash in product, a spray, or some people do wash and spray after. If washing, I'd do it before constructing, spray could happen after, but I'm hypothesizing, as I haven't used either.

Probably should still use a trash compactor liner but it would help keeping the water from weighing your pack down.

u/vertr · 1 pointr/Velo

This stuff:

I use it quite frequently to fix holes and cuts in regular tires.

u/devioustrap · 1 pointr/autorepair

For the light, you want a silicone sealant. Something like this:

Be careful on the door. Are there screws behind that strip? If so, and you glue something on, you'll never be able to remove the door panel. I'd just do a bit of double stick tape, but not so much that I couldn't remove it.

u/Slayblaze · 1 pointr/ElectricSkateboarding

I have my X2 enclosers sealed up pretty tight with but I am still going to limit my rides as much as possible once we get into the winter snow/ice/road salt season. Like others have said, my main concern is going through patches where salt or brine has been applied to road and trail surfaces because it is majorly corrosive to _all_ materials. Nothing worse than salt + moisture.

u/ThorhaxPrime · 1 pointr/watercooling

I Delided my 7700k and lost a solid 15c and I use a NZXT AIO Cooler.
I used these 2 things and worked like a charm.
Thermal Grizzly Liquid
And this Helpful tool
You can go the extra mile and use plain nail varnish to help with protecting the resistors and a little tiny bit of [This] (
My next step is for a custom water loop but planning to do it in an itx case when I upgrade next.
Hopefully this was of some use.

u/Serkaugh · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Don’t know if it’s in the right place, but I have a ‘03 ce Jetta, and I removed the headliner last summer because is was beginning to sag. This summer I want to wrap it up.
I’m looking for a nice fabric (suede like) that’s will not fade in a year.
Planning on using this glue

Also, my interior is beige, don’t know is I’m going to the a-b-c pillar and put them black. Kinda look like this minus the seats
Or I stay with all beige anyway the dash board is black.

u/legendarysamsquanch · 1 pointr/orangecounty

I've got a 2001 Civic and I replaced it myself. It was honestly really, really easy. Just took a little elbow grease and a little research on youtube/google. It cost me about 50 bucks in total. I used this video as a guide and this video is a little more recent (I haven't watched through it fully)

You wanna buy foam-backed fabric from jo-anns or any store similar to it, a metal brush, some razor blades, and some adhesive spray like this one.

What kind of car do you drive? I'm betting you could look up your car on youtube along with the correct key words to find out more info. Since you have an older car, it's probably gonna be easier to service yourself than if it were a new car.

u/DaReelEllenPao · 1 pointr/Guitar

If the buzzing is your only problem get some loctite and apply a little bit to all the screws after setting it up. Fixed the buzzing on my Jazzmaster in 10 seconds. Just make sure you get the non permanent type so you can readjust it if needed. I almost guarantee the problem is just the screws not the whole bridge.

u/JohnProof · 1 pointr/EDC

Most hardware stores will have it on the shelf, just be careful not to buy the permanent red variety.

Otherwise, Amazon to the rescue.

u/spook777 · 1 pointr/Glocks

Thats relatively flush which means you need to thread it more.

You’re installing this with a front sight tool, correct? Regular home depot tools will not suffice (trust me I tried and ruined...)

If not, this is a decent budget one that hasn’t let me down in 6 months—my Ameriglo tool has tho

Also get some Loctite

u/CHF64 · 1 pointr/guns

I'd recommend this too.

u/TheImmortalLS · 1 pointr/techsupportgore

screws fell out after i disassembled to install a ssd

i heard that blue loctite is what they use to make sure they stay, might get some soon if it happens again

u/tommyk3 · 1 pointr/guns

You are getting horrible advice and this thread is complete shit. Here is exactly what you need:

Upper Vice Block.
Torque Wrench 1/2”.
Anti-Seize Grease.
Blue Loctite.
Punch Set.
Torx & Allen Set.

The reason people are recommending an armorers wrench is for the muzzle break install. Every armorers wrench has a slot designed for installing one. This isn’t mandatory because you can use a regular wrench but you might as well get one because you will need one to build a lower when installing the castle nut.

u/boostedmioo · 1 pointr/boostedboards
Try to apply this product on the screw which tight the motor mount to the truck. based on what the boosted customer service said, those screws were designed to hold motor mount to the truck, temporarily while the epoxy completely dry. But, thread locker and screw hold motor mount really well. It has been almost 4months after I apply thread locker. and it still holds with any problem. but send them back to boosted before ur warranty ends just for check up, which i ll do pretty soon:)

Make sure to leave ur board for 24hours after u apply thread locker. make sure do not touch or ride for 24hours!!

u/Johnny32757 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

This stuff will work and is removable (with a little effort) if you need to remove the joystick in the future. I use it to secure the nuts to the bolts on my car's brakes.

Loctite  Heavy Duty Threadlocker, 0.2 oz, Blue 242, Single

u/Pavel_Balisong · 1 pointr/balisong
u/Inathero · 1 pointr/FidgetSpinners

You could grab some light-weight loctite like loctite blue:

Then put a very very small amount on the threads, screw them as tight as you can, and let them sit. They'll be secure. And since you're using something like loctite instead of super glue, you can still unscrew them (though it'll take a lot more effort)

u/tasty_beverage · 1 pointr/drums

I believe some DW screws are set permanently with Loctite. I may be wrong about your situation.

u/MLDsmithy · 1 pointr/magnetfishing

Yeah, it's just a thread sealant; keeps the threads from banging loose over time (which they do). UK might have a different version, but loctite is pretty prolific, I'd be surprised if you don't have it. Link below off the US market for reference; this is the blue stuff, which will keep the threads from coming loose, but will still let you remove it if you actively try. Another nut could work, but thread sealer is better for the purpose; it's also cheap, and the tiniest bottle will last a very long time. It only takes a drop or two on the threads.

u/garfieldnate · 1 pointr/headphones
u/shoangore · 1 pointr/Multicopter

Right, this is exactly the issue that's happening.

There are three solutions:

  • Use Loctite - This will prevent them from coming undone. But you can't let any touch the prop or it'll corrode the integrity.

  • Purchase reverse-threaded motor mounts to counteract the spin.

  • Use M5 Nylocks - This is what I use. I also purchased a simple ratchet wrench. They are cheap, plentiful, and allow you to do field repairs in just a matter of seconds.

    This is what mine looks like. You can buy them from pretty much any hardware store. Just ask for M5 nylocks. They have a plastic bit inside (color doesn't matter). You can bring in one of your prop nuts just to double-check and confirm they're M5.

    I use an 8mm ratchet wrench, the ratcheting capability is VERY important, it'll cut down your swap time by 90%.
u/appletart · 1 pointr/bicycletouring


Thanks for the update!

Did you use threadlock to secure the bolts? Bolts wiggle free under normal use, but they don't with threadlock! :D

Also, carry a few spare bolts with you, because even the very best will wait till the worst possible moment before breaking! :(

u/mboyle92 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

There is potential for the screws to release.

Go ahead and get some, it's cheap and will keep your quad from coming apart mid-flight.

u/phineas1134 · 1 pointr/boating

On a similar note, probably also not the technically correct repair, But 4 years ago I repaired several 1 inch sized dings through the gel coat on my keel with JB WaterWeld. Before applying I cleaned it the area well with rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush and then dried it with a hair dryer. The boat is white so it was a good match, and with just a little sanding it looked pretty darn good. Four years later those repairs are still holding strong. Good luck with your repairs OP. It should be an easy fix, just be sure to take care of right away before it gets worse.

Edit: Marine Weld might be a better match for you since it will dry a dark grey like your hull. I prefer to work with the putty that I linked above because it is easier to shape. But I bet the marine weld would do a good job for you too.

u/patycakes · 1 pointr/Construction

I used to work in boats and there are only a few products that really work. They vary in price and are for different applications.
For smaller patches JB Weld has a two part marine adhesive that isn't too expensive (make sure to follow directions)
3M has a tape that i've used before and works well if you can dry/clean the surface before applying.

u/wildjokers · 1 pointr/functionalprint

JB Weld is pretty much the epoxy to go with for nearly everything, they have a marine version:

u/NEHOG · 1 pointr/GoRVing

A good glass shop?

OK, these windows are a royal PITA. You have to cut off the old rubber, remove the glass (carefully!) and clean the glass spotlessly clean, clean the opening (again, spotless) as well. You then need the proper sealant (possibly urethane?)

And you'd need the rubber weatherstripping. It has to be cut to size, and spliced (fun... basically using superglue).

I'm sure there are YouTube videos on it, basically a piece of cord to install the glass, and some sweat and work.

u/DriversValhalla · 1 pointr/subaru

FYI you can repair the bumper if you still have the pieces with bondo, mesh and clamps, works really well if you put the prep work in.

Bondo 280 Epoxy Bumper Repair Syringe Kit - 0.34 fl. oz. by 3M

u/michael5029 · 1 pointr/cars
u/mysta316 · 1 pointr/ft86

You can fill chips and this hole with body epoxy and sand then wrap over the top of that. Most automotive pait stores have it. Amazon link

u/atotalpro · 1 pointr/Miata

Like the others have said, pull the pumper cover off, and take a heat gun and push them out. From personal experience though, it doesn't take much heat to make that plastic malleable, so take it slow. If you can't get it perfect, this Bondo bumper repair kit is great too. Just put it on, let it cure, sand it down and finish it with some glazing putty. This formula worked well for me and I repaired a puncture with it. Also, if you need paint, Sherwin Williams automotive seems to be significantly cheaper than any of the online color match sellers.

u/austex_mike · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Then you can try Bondo 280 Epoxy Bumper Repair Syringe Kit

Don't use regular Bondo though, your bumper needs a certain amount of flex. Regular Bondo would be too hard.

u/Silenthunter87 · 1 pointr/FocusST

doesn't look too bad. try this with some creativity and color match paint. wont be perfect, but way less than $700

u/patameus · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I've had good luck with this coupled with a fibrous backing like fiberglass.

Also, the correct answer is zip ties. Chicks dig scars, but whatever.

u/kankaswag · 1 pointr/BMW

id try something like this

u/WTucker999 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

There are probably some “store brands” in the auto parts stores, but be sure it’s a heavy duty headliner adhesive.

u/JukeboxJohnny · 1 pointr/knifeclub
u/Matraxia · 1 pointr/snowboarding

My binding screws came with Blue Loctite pre-applied. It was the paste version, not the liquid. You can buy Loctite paste that comes in something like a gluestick type package that won't get everywhere. Just rub the threads of the screw on it.

Medium Strength (Blue) Loctite is 100% safe for the inserts and the paste keeps it off the Binding disk. Remember the motto: "A little dab will do ya." Less is more with loctite.

u/picklepirate_v2 · 1 pointr/Multicopter

That is what you will need to use instead of loctite when securing the fastener to and plastics. I have not ran in to any material used in 3d printing that can hold up to loctite. But I will say the Vibratite is some serious stuff.

u/s0nspark · 1 pointr/Glocks

Done right the MOS system is solid. There are a few things to know, though:

  1. Replace the provided screws with the Battlewerx RMR screw kit.
  2. Use the Trijicon sealing plate.
  3. Use Vibratite VC-3 instead of blue loctite.
  4. Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws to 12-14 in/lbs.
  5. Optionally, spring for the C&H Precision V3 optic plate

    The only reasons I see to have a Glock milled these days is if you want irons forward, are using an oddball optic or are already having mill work done.
u/chiarosbarro · 1 pointr/Sneakers

It might. I've never used it myself, but it's used to fill in holes in the outsole, so I think it would fill the cracks. Since that's the midsole, they probably won't be as comfortable. Or maybe look into spray foam, and then just paint over it.

u/snowdrif · 0 pointsr/Cartalk

They use polyurethane adhesive for windshields, so i'm guessing that would probably work fine for your mirror.

I don't think it comes in smaller containers than this for the 3m stuff though