Best body repair tools according to redditors

We found 718 Reddit comments discussing the best body repair tools. We ranked the 288 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Body hammers & dollies
Body repair collision repair sets
Body repair dent removal tools
Body repair grinders & polishers
Body repair paint tools & equipment
Body repair panel flange tools
Body repair sanders
Body repair slide hammers
Body repair upholstery & trim tools
Windshield & glass repair tools
Body repair putty

Top Reddit comments about Body Repair Tools:

u/seihakgwai · 39 pointsr/mazda

I installed the parts myself over the weekend and it took me around 2.5 hrs. Grab a set of trim removal tools (around 10USD) , follow the service manuals closely and it's really not that hard.

You can get the parts today from Med Center Mazda on Ebay for $166.94USD - 15% off = $144.50USD (with coupon PICKFAST on EBay App ONLY), shipping free anywhere in the US.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mazda-Apple-CarPlay-and-Android-Auto-Retrofit-Kit-00008FZ34/192679403436?epid=11023459215&hash=item2cdc965fac:g:Qb4AAOSwz6pbtnlR:rk:1:pf:0

https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PSYC82VRJR5KKEY3Z4EH

https://pages.ebay.com/promo/2018/1121/70319.html?_trkparms=%26clkid%3D8318549494442163000

u/wyattberr · 14 pointsr/EntrepreneurRideAlong

1- Buy this windshield repair kit for $10.

2- Print out flyers that say “windshield chip repair, I come to you, help me save for college, satisfaction guaranteed, blah blah blah”. $10 one-time cost.

3- Start in your neighborhood. Check out windshields in driveways and on the street. When you see a chip on a windshield, knock on the door.

4- “Hi sir, you have a chip in the windshields of two of the cars in your driveway. For just $20 per windshield, I can seal those right up and save you from a costly new windshield!” Bat your eyes. Say something about saving for college. Also mention you accept Venmo or Apple Pay.

5- if they didn’t answer the door, leave the flyer.

6- Fix the windshield (learn from a YouTube video.)

The kit you bought will fix about 7-8 chips. At $20 per chip, you turned a profit of $150 on just a Sunday afternoon. Do it two days per week for $300 profit. Do it every day after school for 2-3 hours and you’ll make more than an entry level college graduate.

Everyone gets chips in their windshield. People love to see kids working toward something instead of sitting on their phones. If you approach someone about their chip, I’d put my bottom dollar that 7/10 of them give you $20 to fix it. It’s the same reason everyone stops for the lemonade stand. They don’t really want cool-aid, they want to help an ambitious kid doing something productive.

u/RIKENAID · 13 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

From one Subaru owner to another. Hope this helps.

Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6WpMyb4EWP6PR

Clipsandfasteners Inc 15 Subaru Bumper Engine Cover Fender And Grille Clips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00588T81Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_IYpMybKHCF30R

u/zenautodetailing · 13 pointsr/AutoDetailing

For a present, I'd suggest the griots. Has a "lifetime" warranty, and is great for a first polisher.

u/chadcf · 10 pointsr/pics

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

  1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
  2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
  3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
  4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
  5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.

    You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).

    The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.

  1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
  2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.
u/OriginOfEnigma · 10 pointsr/buildapc

Former auto body paint tech here, as mentioned already, you need to sand/scuff the paint because the paint needs to etch itself into the case for the paint to adhere correctly. Just do a good scuff job with these I would say sanding would be overkill for something like this. Just use those scuff pads until the sheen is gone and the whole finish looks matte. After that use gray or white sealer over the scuffing, then apply the paint. Don't forget a good eggshell or matte clear coat.

u/anewatrophy · 9 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you are planning to detail for the long term, I'd suggest investing in some bulk / concentrated products rather than the consumer-grade & Ultimate Meguiar's line.

I've tried to break down the supplies I'd suggest. Of course, don't just throw out your existing supplies. Use them up and then get the concentrates / bulk.

Note: There's no need to get everything in this list. Just get what you need. There's also cheaper alternatives to several of the products, and probably cheaper sites than those in my links. Some of the products I use because I want to support the manufacturer and/or because I trust the manufacturer. Use what you like and use it often. :)

 

Dust, light bug gut, and light bird bomb removal / lube

u/damon_dolo · 7 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

  1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
  2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
  3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.
u/OMAHGAD · 7 pointsr/boardgames

JB PLastic Weld for the tank. Saved my ass when I accidentally snapped off one of the ram clips in my computer. Works just like it sounds. Good as new.

u/wiserTyou · 7 pointsr/DIY

Looks like the Griots buffer. I bought one this year myself and it's very nice. There are cheaper brands, but the better the tool the better the results.

u/justanotherlawyer80 · 7 pointsr/infiniti

Hey guys I ordered them online from a parts place in Texas. Link here:

https://www.nissaninfinitiparts.com

I did both sides in the front. $58 each. I think about $13 to ship. The guys were really friendly and helpful, called me after I placed the order to confirm the parts and they showed up on time. The parts and shipping were cheaper getting them from Texas than getting them here in Chicago.

I also used these tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HNMLQAG/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Plenty of videos on popping the old ones out on YouTube. Took about 10 minutes.

u/daniellinphoto · 6 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.

I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.

I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.

Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.

I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.

Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.

Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.

Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.

u/lithiumbb · 6 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Well the first, and biggest, difference is power. The one you linked is 1.1amp, the griots is 7 amp and has adjustable speed, so it can work faster than the buffer you linked. The type of pads they use is different as well, the griots has a velcro backing plate so you can use pads like these. 10 inches also is quite big and probably nearly impossible to use on tighter areas.
(I'm not an expert so please feel free to correct me on anything)

u/Waitits2015 · 5 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

> is having the hose unplugged the same thing?

More or less. Disconnecting the air intake means no flow through the MAF. The computer takes that to mean that the sensor has failed and runs the default fuel maps.

You can try using something like CRC MAF Cleaner, but if the problem has gotten bad enough to cause stalling the MAF probably needs to be replaced.

u/Tomimi · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Get this

DA Polisher Griots $99 [Lifetime warranty]

Pads $45+25% off = 33.75

Get 3 orange, 2 white and 1 blue or whatever you want


Use BLK25 Coupon Code to get 25% off

Backing pad $10

Then the rest you can pick whatever, a polisher/compound, MFs or an ONR and dilute it 1:16 for quick detailing

The kit is fine, but you should take advantage of the sale that's going on right now.

u/neuromonkey · 5 pointsr/howto

I tested a number of epoxies on plastics, and found JB Weld PlasticWeld to hold the best on the various plastics I tried. There are a variety of types of plastics, and what works on one won't hold another.

u/nakedjay · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

u/tomgabriele · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Sure! So I used what I had on hand, which is entirely overkill for this application:

  • Harbor Freight dual action polisher

  • Meguiar's microfiber cutting pad

  • Barkeepers Friend

    Get the pad wet, generously sprinkle on the Barkeepers Friend, mush it around so it becomes paste-y, set your polisher on low speed, and spread it all over the affected area. Then ramp up the speed to polish it out. Follow your instinct, spend more time on areas that need it, and try not to leave it in one place too long. It's less of an issue on enamel-coated iron, but heat can build up quickly, soften the paint, and cause damage.

    But you don't need a special polisher or expensive cutting pads.

    Something like this in your (prefereably corded) drill would probably work well enough.

    Or a cheap polisher like this and the cotton polishing bonnet it comes with would work well too.
u/arth33 · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I don't have any experience with the machine you list. But if it were up to me, I'd get the Griot's. They're a known entity, have a great warranty, and they're on sale on Amazon.ca. The polisher alone is $180, but the kit is only $220 and comes with two pads, detailer, compound, wax, and a clay bar. The only issue is that the Griot's comes with a 6" backing pad and it's generally recommended to get a 5" backing plate and pads.

u/sheriffsally · 5 pointsr/BMW

No kit.

Wrap

Tools

And a heat gun I already had. The only issue I'm having is that there's air slowly forming in the corners like where the vents are, if I had to do it again id probably put some glue on those spots.

u/drive-through · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You might like a Meg's product called something like "natural finish". I love 303, but this is better for applications where people want protection but hate the shine, such as dashboards

Edit: here ya go: Meguiar's G4116 Natural Shine Protectant - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bT19BbEV7FNJE

u/alwaysready · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

u/YuuB0t · 4 pointsr/consolerepair

Try something like these

J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yRZRDbA3W8TM7

J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan - 25 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iRZRDbXEJ04NG

It's very important to let it cure for at least a day or two. Even then it wouldn't be very structurally sound. I would recommend swapping the shell, but if you're not experienced it might be something you would have to pay to have done.

Edit: I should probably add that you should try to cover the PCB so you don't get any spillage on it. Tape would do fine.

u/Steavee · 4 pointsr/4Runner

I went OEM because some of the aftermarket installs can have weird gremlins. The downside is that it’s limited to the range of your existing keyfobs. That and the fact that if you have the limited with the smart key the car shuts off when you open the door. I totally get why it works that way, it’s a feature not a bug and it’s not big deal, but some people are annoyed by that.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00OBVU92I/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I know that fits the 2014-2017 models, there is a similar part number (search PT398-891X0) for earlier 5th gen models.

I had to do some googling and digging in the 4Runner forums to find the install documentation, but I think it was this thread. The instructions covered everything, it was really very straightforward and was 100% plug and play. I have a limited and factory security so I didn’t have to install the hood switch, but that doesn’t look too hard either. If those aren’t the correct instructions let me know and I’ll dig it off of my hard drive.

You’ll want to get some plastic panel popping tools off of amazon, I got these. Other than that you’ll just need some common hand tools for the bolts, a screw or two, and cutting the tails off of the zip ties you install. Oh, they recommend a torque wrench for the knee airbag you have to take out (it’s less scary than it sounds, I promise). I had a cheap harbor freight one and it worked fine, but I don’t think it would be the end of the world if you just tightened them with your socket wrench by feel to what they were when you removed it, they don’t seem like they would be mission critical for the airbag to still work, they just hold it in place.

To get it to work with your keys, they have to be programmed. While there are apparently ECU programming tools one can buy, they seemed sketch and getting the techstream software to work was a fucking nightmare (I had to run a VM with Windows XP, and that’s before the driver nightmares) so I recommend just taking all the keys into a Toyota dealer, mine programmed them for the remote start for ~$60. It might even be cheaper if you time it with a maintenance visit. In the end my dealer wanted $750 to install the factory remote start but buying it myself and only paying them for the keys I spent half of that and 90 minutes of my time.

Oh, and the little barrel shaped plastic screw-head cover on the passenger kickplate in the bottom right of the passenger floorboard waaaay up in the back? It unscrews, it doesn’t pull off. Remember that, it took me like 10 minutes to figure that out. That was probably the toughest part other than getting the wiring harness actually plugged in, it was a tight fucking fit with all the wires.

u/koffeinhaltige · 4 pointsr/subaru

Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HoxDDbF7E3FPH

u/jayemo · 4 pointsr/civic

Just realized how vague my reply was.

Weather mats - I was able to get "free" Honda ones from the dealer with my vehicle purchase. They're nice and fit well. I've heard great things about weather tech too. And don't forget one for the trunk too. Mine earned it's keep the first time a milk jug leaked. Super easy cleanup compared to carpet cleaning.

Interior leds - I used these plus this trim removal kit. Trim kit is a nice to have, you probably have something around the house to improvise with. For the actual install hit up you tube for "tenth gen Civic interior lights". It's a very easy job.

Also this was my first time having a car with a nice key fob so I got some of these to keep it from getting beat up. With auto lock, unlock, and push button start, it only leaves my pocket when I'm home anyway.

u/leakytransmission · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Shouldn't be too hard. Be sure to acquire new fasteners for the door panel before you take it apart and get yourself a panel tool like this to make it easier on yourself: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO/

When taking the panel off the door take your time and make sure you disconnect wiring harness in there as you go so you don't accidentally overextend any of them. Once that's off it is usually a couple nuts/screws to remove the mirror. Then install the new one by putting the nuts/screws back on. Put new door panel fasteners on your door panel. Connect wires back up and press it back on. Be careful around the door locks if you have the pin type that pops up and down as the linkage can become bent; on some cars you can remove the pin by unscrewing it before you start but for other styles you can't remove it because it's square.

u/Frauenarzttt · 3 pointsr/BMW

Looks great! I did this with my E39's style 42's a couple years ago. The process is pretty straightforward if you want to fix curb rash like I did. Pretty much just involves sanding the lip down, putting some bondo over the problem areas, sanding that down, then spraying it again (primer, silver paint, clear coat). I can answer questions you guys may have too, I'm pretty happy with how mine came out

EDIT (supplies I used):

Nice kit that comes with rags and the sprays you need

Bondo

Scotch Painters' Tape

I cut out a circular piece of cardboard to put over the inset part of the wheel (everything but the lip) and then I taped off everything but the very outer lip that was scuffed. I can't find the original DIY that I used but this is the process as I remember it (minus sandpaper details because I don't remember the exact grit), I'm sure if you googled around you could find something more detailed and with pictures.

u/GVSUbonnie · 3 pointsr/Nerf

For stuff like adding volume and smoothing out areas on my projects I usually use Bondo which is used for autobody work. After mixing it sets up quickly but allows time for working with it and its easily sanded once dry. Heres and example of what i use http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375750267&sr=8-1&keywords=bondo

u/orwangatang · 3 pointsr/Acura

The people over at /r/autodetailing will be the first to tell you not to use any Armor All products. Overall just very low quality products and damage, rather than preserve your vehicle. They dry out the dash and cause cracking.

Meguiars makes great automotive detailing products. Their Supreme Shine Protectant is significantly better than Armor All's and will not damage your dash. Spray it onto a Microfiber towel or cloth and apply to your dash. If you are looking for something less glossy and greasy, their Natural Shine Protectant is great too.

Avoid buying the wipe type products as they just aren't worth the money.

If you want to thoroughly clean your interior like a professional, try products like 303 Aerospace protectant and Einszett cockpit premium. These are products used by pros and many detailing enthusiasts at /r/autodetailing and in the detailing world.

Wiping with just a damp cloth will not do, as the sun will eventually crack up your dash; its only a matter of time. The protectant will preserve your dash for as long as possible and it wicks up dust while leaving a glossy, or matte finish.

u/Liquidretro · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

A microfiber or foam applicator pad is what you should probably use.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3080-EvenCoat-Applicator-Pads/dp/B0009IQZQG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-3&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Since your just starting out this might be a good kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-13&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Depending on your budget and how much you see washing by hand etc, you might look at /u/TheRagCompany microfibers. They are really liked here, I just got mine and are going to try them out tonight.

Make sure to read up on good technique on the wash and correction so you don't introduce any more scratches etc.

u/Gad001 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

The second bucket is a "rinse" bucket. It is used to clean the dirt off your mitt from the dirt it encounters on your car. It contains just water, and you rub your mitt on the grit guard to get all the dirt and grime off off it. Then I typically ring it out and put it into my "wash" bucket. This bucket contains the actual car wash, I run the mitt along the grit guard and then ring it a bit and use it on the car again.
This video will provide a little insight into the process.

As far as applicator pads go, it's best to go with a foam applicator when it comes to applying wax. The reason for this is simply because a foam applicator is going to evenly distribute the wax and not provide any abrasiveness against the surface of your paint. These pads by Meguiar's should do the trick. I personally use Pinnacle Polyfoam pads from AutoGeek.net, but these are probably the same thing, they just have the Meguiar's logo.

I would recommend not using a pad for different applications. Keep one pad for wax, one for sealant, etc. The foam pads I linked can be used for sealant and wax.

However, for compound, I would go with a microfiber applicator if you are going to do it by hand. You may not get stellar results this way, but it may work, I personally have never tried it. The reason for microfiber pads here is because they offer a little more abrasiveness against your paint as opposed to the foam applicators. These may do the trick if you want to apply compound and polish by hand.

u/iamtehstig · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This is the one I went with:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_EFqiub0TTBDWG

I have had it on for a year and it is holding up great. The velcro is very strong and it holds well.

u/itsrocketsurgery · 3 pointsr/harborfreight

This Astro one is what I bought and it fits.

u/windowman310 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Amazon I don't have much experience but I think that it does the job. I haven't had any issues on the two projects I've used it on, so I think it's a safe bet.

u/Pinkman2012 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Well, I'd first recommend you step down in pad size and get a different backing plate. There is a 5 inch backing plate on Amazon that you can use with the 5.5 inch pads. Secondly, I'm not a big fan of Griot's pads, and I'd get something else if you can, like Lake Country or Buff and Shine. They're just better quality to me.

You've got the sandpaper order mixed up. You go from smaller to bigger. You go with the more coarse(1500) then move to fine(2000). I'd find out the equivalent abrasiveness level of the steel wool you used to see if that grit will be able to pull out the scratches you put in. If it's the 0000 steel wool I think the equivalent is 600-800 grit sandpaper from all the Google-Fu I just did.

EDIT - I just put together a cart for you on Autopia - GG6, 5 inch backing plate, Microfiber pad, Polishing Pad, Optimum No Rinse(ridiculously useful for EVERYTHING), Speedy Sponge Medium/Fine Grade Pack, M105 32 oz, M205 32 oz, D101 and it's at $240 with our Reddit Coupon code. You need more than 1 of each pad, but it gives you an idea of the savings you can get. Ray(/u/autopiavega) will hook you up if you talk to him and he'll get you what you need at a better price than you're looking at now. You'd have plenty of product and if you get the hang of things you can do a couple other cars and make your money back once you're practiced.

u/SynclinalJob · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I know I’ll get some shit for this, but, one time I had a Nissan that had a leaking fuel pump like this and I didn’t have a lot of money. So I cleaned the pump really well and shined a light on it while someone turned on the key and I found the tiny crack that the gas was coming out at.

So I went in my toolbox and found this plastic weld that I had bought previously. I put a coat, let it dry, put another coat and I drove that car for two years after that and never had a problem

I didn’t want to buy a cheaper autozone pump because they don’t last long and an oem pump is a lot of money

This is what I used.
J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nPSDDbTHPR411

u/ev3rm0r3 · 3 pointsr/fixit

If qbond doesn't work for you there is also a 2 part molding clay that will stick/mold to anything and then you can filed it down to at least look aesthetically usable. Holds anything from plastic, wood, metal, obviously get the right type for this JB Plastic Weld

Too give you an idea, its held my 8 inch cracked bumper together for 2 years only by applying it to a the surface inside, its held/sealed a crack in my parents basement shower that i used for 2 years before I moved out, and It sealed a radiator leak that constantly sits at whatever the engine coolant temp gets too. Just mold your headphones with it where they fit and they'll never break again, at least not where it was welded.

u/SPARTANsui · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If you have enough coat built up, sand with 400, 800, and maybe 1500. Then use a buffing compound with some water and a pad on a ROS sander. If that doesn't add a glossy finish...Idk what will.

u/Blovnt · 3 pointsr/fixit

JB Weld plastic epoxy works great for mending plastic.

I use it quite often.

u/JuvenileSenseOfHumor · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

In my opinion, if this is your first polisher and you're not a seasoned professional, I would not recommend it.

  1. it's a rotary (not a dual action) sander/grinder/polisher. Dual action is a lot more forgiving and a lot more user friendly.

  2. it's 7 inches - that is massive for a first polisher. Most people recommend a 5-6 inch polisher.

  3. simoniz doesn't make the most quality products. Their price points are amazing, but the quality of the product usually reflects why their price is where it is.

  4. 10' cord is good if you want to strangle yourself. Using extension cables when working with a polisher is annoying as it can come unplugged by you pulling on the cord or inadvertently stepping on it moving from point to point.

    Look for the Griots Garage 6in dual action polisher or the Porter Cable 7424xp 6in dual action. Both can be had for nearly as cheap. I kept the GG polisher in my Amazon waitlist because it goes on sale from time to time for $155'ish which is a steal.

    Griot's Garage 10813LNGCRD 6-Inch Random Orbital Polisher with 25-Feet Cord https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009UKUURO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_DKqxzbQJ5NVFQ

    PORTER-CABLE 7424XP 6-Inch Variable-Speed Polisher https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6Jqxzb3VNSE56

    Also, check out the wikilinks in the sidebar for recommended products - http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/wiki/index
u/Jugrnot · 3 pointsr/Miata

I found 3m has a new product they call Paint Defender and got an idea that I'd like to try on my VW.. Thoroughly clean and wax the front end, mask off what I don't want to cover and spray several layers of clear pastidip. Not sure if it'll stay clear for very long, but figure worst case I'll peel it off.

u/akvw · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This would be a nice little set to add to the DA.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUF_HEXKITS_8-Hex-Logic-Buffing/dp/B00BTGDRB8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395789961&sr=1-1&keywords=6+inch+buffing+pads

As far as the polishers and such, it would depend on how bad the swirls/scratches etc are.

u/jkxs · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)



WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)


Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

u/Narc3119 · 3 pointsr/SciontC

i replaced both of mine on my 05. they're like $40 shipped on ebay and amazon. you need to buy a pry kit like this to pop it off and then it slides right in.

https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pry+kit&qid=1549632120&sr=8-4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r5_-pebbIwk

u/ArkhamAsylum · 3 pointsr/SciontC

When I removed mine I used of these plastic trim tools.

u/mityman50 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

This guy is perfect for your setup. Gets you the 100w for your speakers and a respectable 350w for your sub.

Make sure you set your gains correctly. I'd leave some headroom on the speakers (target 90w) to avoid clipping.

This amp has fuses on it but you still need to fuse the power wire. Don't skimp on wiring!

This is a simple, clean, respectable little setup. I like it.

Oh yeah one last thing! I'd highly, highly suggest putting these on the shopping list if you don't have anything.

u/CriticoolHit · 3 pointsr/CarAV

No one should have to go through that much trouble running wires.... There are cheap products out there that make all of this very... VERY... easy.

Long Guide https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Threader-Cable-Running-Pulling/dp/B00NQ0N5D0

Short and Stiff guide https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LE8CQM

Body tools: (I credit this as one of my best purchases ever) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/

u/Fuck_tha_Bunk · 3 pointsr/WRX

I used Goo Gone because it's gentle and I didn't want to risk stripping the clear coat or anything. Soaked it real good, waited 30 seconds or so and used one of THESE with a flat tip as a scraper. There were some very fine scratches afterwards. I could only see them with a flashlight and they came out easily with maguiers scratchx 2.0.

Since yours is newer the adhesive will probably come off easier than mine did.

u/Tec_ · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Some conservative criticism

Proper panel removal tools will make life a lot easier and can prevent possible damage.

That ground looked questionable. Hard to tell if any cleaning of the paint/primer over that stud was done prior to install. But the rear package tray isn't a terribly substantial part of the car to being with. You want to ground to clean bare metal that is a substantial structure in the car. With the battery having been that close the factory ground point should have been readily available. The negative terminal on the battery would have been acceptable too.

The routing of the bass knob cable was just lazy. It takes very little time and effort to remove the rear seat bottom and route the wire that way with the factory runs.


Other that that, not to bad.

u/ToastFlavoredToast · 3 pointsr/financialindependence

If the crack isn't obstructing your vision, do you think a $10 repair kit might be worth trying? Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/Rain-X-600001-Windshield-Repair-Kit/dp/B00IPS4APU/

u/Brown_eyed_pea · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Yes, definetly sand it to get good adhesion. I used a red 3m scuff pad to sand it down.

I used automotive paint, you can ask around to some bodyshops, if they can throw it into a booth cycle they already have going they might not charge you very much. Powder coating would also be a good option if there's anywhere around you that does that.

I can't really say much about using spray paint as I've never tried it but I would assume if you spray it and let it sit overnight it should be fine.

u/MinisterGhaleon · 3 pointsr/CX5

Just did this over the weekend. As the others have stated, if you're not forceful, you shouldn't be breaking any clips. I could probably tear the dash apart again in about 15-20 mins if I had to do it again.

I do highly recommend purchasing a plastic auto trim remover kit. They made popping the panels and clips ALOT easier. I purchased this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539017376&sr=8-4&keywords=auto+trim+removal

The trim remover comes in handy when you're trying to pop the clips to loosen the old AUX hub unit. You can find details instructions on how to remove the TRIM panel in the TRIM PDFs here: https://my.hidrive.com/share/hsodpqja.l#$/Mazda_Firmware/1%20CarPlay-AndroidAuto%20INSTALL

​

IMO, I was more nervous about the software update than the physical labor of running the cables. I spent more time doing the software update because I needed a FAT32 formatted USB stick. That was a challenge since most of my memory sticks are 64gb+ and can only be formatted in exFAT/NTFS on Windows 10. Partitioning the 64gb drives to <32GB didn't really help me either, so I had to go purchase a <32GB usb stick and formatted to FAT32. Other than that, I was nervous about the installation failing, but it was also pretty straight forward. You need to complete the update ahead of the physical installation, so I'd recommend just getting that out of your way first.

I'm glad I did the installation myself, I don't know how neat the dealers would be in terms of dampening and tidying up the new cables.

u/Grifter1354 · 3 pointsr/ChevyTrucks

1st-I can't really tell from the picture but its probably a barbed trim fastener. If so, you can use a y'ed old fork or get tool like the link below.

https://www.amazon.com/QMET-Plastic-Fastener-Remover-removal/dp/B0734VKNYK

2nd- The answer is always chrome.

3rd- Depends on the design.

u/HardcorePooka · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

From what I can see you're going to want to get a tool like this https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-Drake-Off-Road-Tools/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518368702&sr=8-1&keywords=clip+tool

at least if you plan on doing this a lot. Otherwise, a flat had screwdriver should be able to pry up the center section and then pull them out.

u/hobbestigertx · 2 pointsr/Chevy

The key to pulling the door panel is to use the right tool.

You just slide it under the panel and slide it left or right to find the fastener. Then use it as a lever to pop the fastener loose. Works like a charm.

You can find it at any auto parts store for less than $10. A million uses beyond pulling door panels too.

u/OhioJeeper · 2 pointsr/cars
u/Potbrowniebender · 2 pointsr/ToyotaTacoma


This has always helped me out.

Lisle 35260 Plastic Fastener Remover

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_RlSQwbH88JRR5

u/fuzzy_one · 2 pointsr/cosplay

The car filler is bondo yes it is easy to use and fairly easy to sand. Mix in small batches, about the size of a golf ball and spread with a plastic spatula that can be found at the store usually right beside the filler. I have found artistic palette knives help a lot in mixing and spreading as well. Then you will sand ->primer -> sand, (repeating with finer grit sandpaper and then finally painting when you are happy with the surface.

u/Chagrinnish · 2 pointsr/DIY

Example

Underneath that white lid there should be a tube of hardener. When you're buying it make sure it's present; sometimes it gets snatched.

u/typicalCoder · 2 pointsr/autorepair

For the bondo do you mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1507462655&sr=1-2&keywords=bondo?

And what did you mean by rattle can? Sorry I'm completely new to this body stuff.

Thanks!

u/pp91073 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Meguiar's G4116 Natural Shine Protectant - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Zwy5Cb04R6THK

u/Smoofington · 2 pointsr/e46

I use Meguiars Quik Interior Detailer and it does an amazing job. Plus you can buy it at Walmart, at least around me.

Edit: I always follow up with Meguiars Natural Shine on the plastic. I find it helps it not look so shitty. I hate that plastidip finish they used for the plastic.

u/pulseOXE · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I think that kit looks great. Literally the only thing I would add for your first detail is some dressing just to make your interior/tires pop. You can pick up some Meguairs Natural Shine for like $4. http://amzn.com/B0009IQXCC It doesn't say it can be used on tires, but it works on them the same as 303 Aerospace, which is another popular choice around here.

u/caseyls · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

The clay kit says it comes with some clay lube, but thanks for the tip!

Foam applicators like this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395465318&sr=8-1&keywords=foam+applicator?

And would I use the mitt in place of all the microfiber towels or just in some cases?

Thanks!

u/chriskmee · 2 pointsr/subaru

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

u/Ellsworthless · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

these are the pads

Also the pack came with two microfiber towels so I'll use those on windows then.

u/Citecla · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Hey man, what an awesome job!
I am preparing to do my first detail by hand too...just wanted to get your ideas. Which pads did you use for the ultimate compound? Any of these you recommend? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZQG/ or http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-HiTech-Applicator-Pad-Pack/dp/B0009IQZPW


Did you switch pads on each of those steps (ie, compound, polish, wax..)

I'm thinking to:

  1. Wash + Dry
  2. Clay Bar + Dry
  3. Compound
  4. Polish
  5. Wax

    Is there any breaks in between any of those processes? Or can I do it one after the other consecutively.

    Thanks buddy :):)
u/pbs094 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Wash then clay then wax. I like to use a foam applicator pad like this.

A microfiber will work but you may end up absorbing more into the towel than actually applying it onto the car

u/M3NDOZA · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I got some of These

maybe not the best but have good reviews.

u/GTSnotEVO · 2 pointsr/mitsubishi

I had a similar issue with my 2010 lancer.

my car would idle low & struggle to stay on.

It died twice while I was reverse parking.

I cleaned the mass air flow sensor with this but its too early to tell if that did anything.

Also found this video, hope it helps.

u/2002fofocuszts · 2 pointsr/cars

Things to check for fuel economy -

  • Your Tire pressure (I set mine at 36psi - COLD) - The ride is a little harsh but it helps with less rolling resistance.

  • Your right foot - I know this may seem like common sense but "Jack rabbit" starts should be avoided and abrupt acceleration as well.

  • Proper braking - Don't use the brakes if you can help it, leave a cushion of space between you and the car in front of you so you don't have to waste energy pressing on the gas again after slamming on your brakes.

  • Maintenance (This is the big one) - Your 2.3L Duratec comes with a "Lifetime Air filter" unfortunately the whole air box will need to be replaced if your Focus has over 150K on it or the filter is clogged / dirty. CHECK YOUR FILTER MINDER WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. If it is bad it can cost 4-$500.00 to replace. I would suggest getting an intake system on ebay or amazon (K&N, AEM, etc.) and replacing the OEM air filter / box if the filter is clogged or dirty. It is substantially cheaper than the factory air box / filter combo if you need to replace it.

  • Oil level / Type - be sure to run the recommended 5W-20 Synthetic or Synthetic blend oils ONLY and be sure it is at the "full" level on the dipstick. If you took it to a Jiffy lube, Walmart or any quick lube chances are they used a conventional 5w-30 and it WILL have an effect on fuel economy.

  • Rear brakes (Some models of Foci have rear disc brakes, if you have a traction control button on the center console next to the e-brake you do not need to follow this step) Check that they are not dragging and adjust them if they are, check the E-brake to be sure that it is properly adjusted and not engaging the rear brakes as well.

  • Spark plugs - Pull one out and look to see if they are in need of replacement, you can find a good guide to spark plug replacement HERE.

  • /u/verbthatnoun suggested a MAF sensor from a bone yard, he's on to something here but you can clean the sensor and restore it's output if it is dirty. I wouldn't trust a MAF from a junkyard due to the environment they are typically in, also a low output MAF will cause a check engine light but only when it gets to a certain point.

    If I think of anything else I'll add it here.
u/Cheddarworst · 2 pointsr/f150

I just cleaned em with some MAF Sensor Cleaner spray like this stuff here.

I saw a nice MPG improvement (~2mpg) from this, but changing my spark plugs (and properly gapping them) really was the biggest improvement.

u/dfink114 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I'm trying to keep the other products on Amazon. I'm doing this all on Saturday and I have Prime, so might as well use it.

Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1395241399&sr=8-13&keywords=5%27%27+polishing+pads

u/gswoff · 2 pointsr/Miami

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

u/nickstewartroc · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

A couple of notes I'll throw in, unless your car is heavily, and I mean HEAVILY contaminated, you shouldn't use the medium, you should use a fine. I bought an Astro 5inch backing pad on Amazon[https://www.amazon.com/Astro-4607-Velcro-Backing-Pad/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_sim_263_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TXCWQPY3N4D5D1SA85JP]

u/Lobster70 · 2 pointsr/Miata

Everyone has their own opinions on paint detailing. I don't mind spending a little time up front if the results are long-lasting. My approach has worked well on multiple cars in our family stable, both single stage (93 Mariner Blue Miata) and clear coat (95 Merlot Mica Miata) among others. I arrived at this list through research on /r/autodetailing and elsewhere in conjunction with my own trial and error.

I use a DA polisher from Harbor Freight. It is very effective and safer, in that it makes it more difficult for a non-professional to take off too much paint. Watch for sales or use a coupon and the cost isn't bad. Their polishing pads do not last so don't buy them. Plus the disc cuts into the foam--bad design. I bought a 5" disc instead and a set of pads separately. I read that 5" was better than 6" and so far, so good. Get a bunch of microfiber cloths also.

+1 for clay bar before you begin with polishing. Get a kit with detail spray and do that first. You'll be surprised how much stuff is actually on your paint that you can't see. Leaving that there can put grit into your polish work.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound to start, using stiffer pad. Follow their directions.

Meguiar's Ultimate Polish next using a medium pad. This step might seem unnecessary but you'll see a difference before/after. This one wipes off before drying--see instructions. When done you should have a mirror-like finish.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for the last step. I LOVE this stuff. A little goes a long way. It comes off so easily, unlike some other sealants (like Klasse--OMG, it's a workout) yet it lasts. You can put it on with the DA polisher, softest pad, or by hand.

Note that I use the DA only for putting stuff ON, never for removing. This video is a bit annoying but shows a good method for removing/buffing.

Some people like to do an additional stage with wax. I haven't done that but maybe I'll try it someday. Seems like the benefit would be minimal compared to the work required.

Finally, a good car wash that won't strip your product. Never use dish detergent. If you do that, you shouldn't have to use the first compound again. Polish and sealant next year or end of season should keep you looking good.

Very last thing: take and post a photo of your work!

u/nevertipsy · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

oh boy now you are getting in detailing! what your going to need is meguiars 205 finish polish, a DA polisher. and a lake country orange cutting pad and a backing pad (theres one that comes with the harbor freight one, but its considered trash)

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC?keywords=meguairs+205&qid=1536994013&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Corsus · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

From my research, this is the one people recommend.

u/movesIikejagger · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/orlheadlights · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You can get one on amazon:

5 Inch Backing Plate

u/jag0007 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

however, its perfect for 6.5" pads and this plate works well with the HF pads

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

heres a pic i took of it with HF 6" pads

http://i.imgur.com/SYid1BZ.jpg

u/RussiaCalling · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You could try some epoxy putty, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/

Might be easier if you can get the metal inserts (nuts) out of the hinge, then you can put the putty in/around the damaged holes in the casing and screw the inserts into that, you could put the screws in the inserts while scrweing them in, to avoid any epoxy getting into the threading.
It should also work with the inserts still in the hinge, might just be a bit more difficult.

u/dragonvpm · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you don't want to use caulk, I'd suggest going with something inexpensive that comes in a small size, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1406699163&sr=1-9&keywords=fiberglass+repair+kit

or even old school JB Weld. I think silicone caulk could work well, but if it doesn't then something that cures hard might give you more satisfactory results.

u/GillyMonster18 · 2 pointsr/Nerf
u/NotMyHersheyBar · 2 pointsr/howto
u/WorkPlayDrive · 2 pointsr/Challenger

DISCLAIMER: Fixing Scratches is an art, you should invest in a decent random orbital polisher, this will help with the polishing and minimize the damage you do. The pads will be based on how abrasive the polish is and how hard you want it to cut. Start light and move to more abrasive polish and pads if necessary. You can ruin the clear coat, create buffer burn areas and do some serious damage if you are not careful.

 

There are all in one products out there like Chemical Guys VSS ( https://amzn.to/2J1bJtS ) matched with an Orange Hexlogic pad ( https://amzn.to/2uvSg1e ) that starts abrasive and breaks down to a fine polish as you make additional passes. For a beginner this is a great place to start, if you are buying a Polisher the Torqx is a great polisher that won't break the bank and this link (https://amzn.to/2GTloly) bundles in some pads (including the orange hexlogic) and samples of a few of the polishes I use, V32, v34, v36 and v38 so if the VSS doesn't work you have some more aggressive stuff to work with.

 

VSS will work on most of the light scratches and paint transfer scuffs. I used it to remove almost all the blemishes and swirls on my wife's truck, however there were some instances where I needed to use the other more aggressive polishes then work my way up. This video gives a good explanation on the use of VSS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-hr71oylIM

u/Dashybrownies · 2 pointsr/cosplayprops

Just grab some milliput, it's what I use for this purpose and it is pretty cheap for decent quantities on eBay in the UK.
Source: Also UK and make things.

EDIT:
Conversely, I've just looked this up, as suggested by the other human: https://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-PlasticWeld-Epoxy-50132-Plastic/dp/B009EU5ZMK

u/Eisenstein · 2 pointsr/audiorepair

I would take the driver assembly off of the frame (aka remove the thand use an epoxy specially formulated to bond plastic to glue the pieces together. I recommend JB PlasticWeld. You probably want to practice on something else before you try it on your cans, since it dries super quick and you only have one shot at this.

One that has fully cured (it says 1hr but definitely give it a full 24hours), I would wrap the cracked part of the frame tightly in a self-sealing tape. This is a rubber tape which resembles electrical tape but it has no 'adhesives'. What you do is stretch it out as you wrap it and then tightly overlay half of the width over your last pass each time. It will fuse to itself and should support it pretty well. Make sure you have enough clearance to put the layer of tape on and still reattach the driver assembly back on, because once it's one there it's not going to come off without a huge fight (which is the whole point). Again, practice beforehand on something else. I personally use the 3M brand all the time with good results, and it's super cheap. Link.

Good luck.

u/jwhite2386 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

If it's just cosmetic, I'd take it to a shop and get it sanded and repainted (or do it yourself!). If it is cracked, there are plenty of ways to repair a crack with ABS cement. Ebay is only really if the fairing piece is beyond repair, since anything off of Ebay for a bike that old will not be in pristine condition. Get it fixed, I've always loved the way the 90's GSXR's look!

u/TheAdamBomb019 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you're Canadian, the Griots Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher went on sale from $217 to $153.59. I paid around $173 after taxes, but will depend on which province you live in.

Griots Polisher

u/Lovemarks · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Damn I should have waited on buying my gg polishers http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UKUURO/ref=pe_62810_128423080_em_1p_0_ti the 25' is also on sale for 99.99 seems to end at the same time. Man I could've saved 20 bucks lol oh well I still got my da's for cheaper than usual.

u/BillStickers99 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

It has 3 out of 5 stars on Amazon. Hopefully someone in /r/AutoDetailing might try it out and give their opinion.

u/KAM1KAZ3 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I wouldn't exactly call it new. Amazon has been selling it since April.

And I would prefer use clear Plasti-Dip if I was just looking for something temporary, like a roadtrip. Mainly because I could buy 3 can of Plasti-Dip Glossifier for almost the same price.

u/dbec1 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/sboyerfour · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher


With that I did:

  • Simple microfiber mitt wash
  • Microfiber towel dry
  • Full body clay bar using this kit

  • All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.

    If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
    (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQVF8J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.
u/xyster · 2 pointsr/WRX

Yes, get a kit from Amazon (KINGLAKE Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool 4Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) or wrap a flat head screw driver with electrical tape. Start from the front clip on the left and work you way towards the back. The right side also has a front clip near the windshield and you have to work your way from back to front.

Also- get 3M clear auto tape to put under the mount feet(3M Clear Scotchgard Paint Protector Vinyl Wrap .5" Wide Tape Roll (.5" x 48") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KF647X?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) to prevent scratching the paint.

I want to say I used a 3/8”bit to drill through the roof gutters. Bought new bits so they were very sharp.

u/misterE_STL · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

Sure. You're going to be running a power wire from the radar, across the top of your windshield, under the top part of your A-pillar, into the rubber trim, down to the side access, and into the fuse box. You're going to put an add-a-circuit in to put two fuses in one slot and share a fuse that turns on when the car is in accessory mode so the radar is only on when the car is on. These are the steps I took:



Step 1:
Mount the radar where you want it to be. I have mine above my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my windshield view at all and isn't visible from outside the car.



Step 2:
Plug the power wire into the radar.



Step 3:
Feel the top of the windshield where the headliner meets it. There's a roughly 1/4" gap there. Tuck the power wire into this gap, working your way towards the driver's side door. The red line is the path your wire will be taking.



Step 4:
When you get to the edge of the windshield, use one of the trim tools to gently pry the A-pillar cover just enough to allow you to tuck the wire into it. Get the wire flat and then push the cover back into place.



Step 5:
Tuck the wire in between the rubber trim on the door, working towards the dash.



Step 6:
Use the trim tool to pry off the side cover. It has 3 clips and should come out fairly easily.



Step 7:
Remove dash drawer by opening it and then squeezing the sides towards the back.



Step 8:
Pull out a fuse, put it in your add-a-circuit, then put the add-a-circuit plug where you pulled the fuse from. The red arrow points to the fuse I chose.



Step 9:
Turn on the car and verify that the radar powers up and down with the car.



Step 10:
Velcro strap the excess power wire and tuck it out of the way.



Step 11:
Replace the drawer and side panel



Stuff to buy:

Power wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Escort-Direct-Power-Radar-Detectors/dp/B0003NN83U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497974491&sr=8-2&keywords=9500ix+hardwire



Add a circuit:
https://www.amazon.com/Radar-Mount-Detector-Fusebox-Circuit/dp/B00UB9W92C/ref=pd_sim_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UB9W92C&pd_rd_r=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M&pd_rd_w=AupqD&pd_rd_wg=ZwoBH&psc=1&refRID=0K76S4T52SJB4ACR9V8M



Fuse puller:
https://www.amazon.com/RoadPro-RPFP2-Fuse-Puller-Pack/dp/B00CSBUFOU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497975152&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+puller



Trim tools:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/apescapes · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Yes, and easy enough to do yourself. It helps to have a trim tool to help pull panels and tuck wires in.

u/nodoubt63 · 2 pointsr/DIY

I found some plastic pry tools on Amazon that say they are for removing trim and panels in car interiors. Is that what you’re referring to? like this?

u/djkrugger · 2 pointsr/mazda3

If you like to work in your car, get these tools, they are inexpensive and useful for removing door panels, interior/exterior trims, bumper clips and more without scratching or marrring anything.

u/ctyt · 2 pointsr/hondafit

Get a piece of plastic (or a knife, with caution), stick it in a crevice, and just pry it off carefully. They pop off easily. These things are pretty useful.

u/TerranRepublic · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

Location: NC, USA

Device: Nexus 6P 64GB (White)

Approved: 9/27

Ordered: 9/27

Ships: 9/28

Shipped: 10/3

ETA: 9/29-10/2

New ETA: 10/5

Replacement: Pixel XL (128 GB, Very Silver)

Process: Google Support

Warranty: Out of warranty, within Nexus Protect (have replaced phone once over a year ago under NP)

Status: Shipped! (10/3)

Battery drain for me. I was going to replace it under under NP (would've been second replacement), but found this thread first. They first said "well your phone is out of warranty but fortunately is still covered by Nexus Protect" but I told them the phone had to only barely be out of warranty and I wasn't go to pay the $70 for a known problem other people were getting free replacements for (I didn't mention the Pixel). They were very nice and gave me the "one-time exception" for a 128GB Silver Pixel XL which the representative said was the only color left and 'looked very nice'. Obviously pleased with how it turned out - credit to Google for really going above and beyond to make this right in the end, even though there's a lot of headache in-between for many.

Only worry is that they'll be upset with the scratches my screen has (small, made by sand) or say something like "there's nothing wrong with your phone" if maybe the 4th factory reset before I send it in fixes it. That remains to be seen.

Note: To anyone with a bend in the casing around buttons, just buy something like this and press it back in. If you are really worried it'll scuff (didn't for me) just use a paper towel barrier. These are also super handy to just have anyways. I had a bend near the lock button and another one near the volume button. Obviously I wouldn't bother if it is going back to Google though.

u/Bucketofbeer · 2 pointsr/GrandCherokee

Rivets - Ginsco 102pcs 6.3mm 8mm 9mm 10mm Nylon Bumper Push Fasteners Rivet Clips Expansion Screws Replacement Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076BMVZ8R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_aEMXCb5GHH8S3

Trim removal tools (good to have) - KINGLAKE 4Pcs Auto Door Clip Panel Trim Removal Tool Kits for Car Dash Radio Audio Installer Pry Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LEMXCbFPMGXH9

As for the rivets I ended up replacing the “permanent” ones with the skinniest ones in the linked set. In the future I can reuse these if I want to.

Here's a decent video on removing the front bumper - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUNlKmHgp9k

I watched and read as much as I could before diving into this. Let me tell you: it's fairly common sense once you do it. You almost could just go figure it out. I think I could have the bumper off in 15 minutes now that I've done it. Here's the main thing to know: once all fasteners are removed unclip the sides of the bumper outwards, the top upwards, and lastly the whole assembly forwards.

I saw the backs of the mesh grills and filed away the idea to change them some time later.

u/Disloud · 2 pointsr/GolfGTI

I ran the control wire (just 4-wire phone cord with RJ11 connectors) back to the trunk of the vehicle when I ran my 4-gauge amp wire (this video helped a lot). I used trim removal tools to pull all the panels for that initial run.

For the control knob, I first removed the side panel to the left of the headlight switch that's only visible when the driver's door is open, then opened and dropped the small storage box above the driver's knee area by pinching the sides and pulling down. Once those are open you can route the wire up under the steering column and over to the gas pedal. I then followed the install manual for the Apex garage door button which were great. Just one note - when you get the shift boot off, all you need to do is push up from the underside of the buttons to dislodge them - don't try to remove the whole piece around the shifter, as it appears to be bolted somewhere to the rest of the console, contrary to their instructions. Here are pics of the final installand customization of the button module to accommodate the ACR1 control knob.

u/Ignabel · 2 pointsr/mazda3

I used something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG
An old credit card will probably work fine... I'd cut it to make it narrower.

u/iamlevel5 · 2 pointsr/350z

I bought a cheap automotive pry tool set from Amazon for a couple of bucks. These are the ones I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNMLQAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To take the driver's side panel off, I shimmied one pry tool at each end of the panel that runs perpendicular to the door, and they popped out. After that, you need to pull the window switches out. I couldn't get the clips with my fingers, so I popped them out with a pry tool.

The passenger is a little easier IMO. You need to pry out the aluminum finisher on the door handle first, then there's two 10mm bolts that you need to unbolt, then the door handle will come out. After that, you should be able to get the passenger switch cover by hand. The clips to get the switches out are the same.

After I dipped mine and put them back in the car, I found a good tutorial on it (figures, lol) by someone on Youtube named AnthonyJ350. I painted mine a fair bit differently, but dissablemly is mostly the same.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vopxhHPTGA

He also has a lot of other tutorials for our cars, so he might have a video on the center console. I've put in and taken out an aftermarket head unit in mine so I've done it, but I can't remember exactly what's in there.

u/YourGFsFave · 2 pointsr/snowboarding

https://www.amazon.com/Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite-Brand/dp/B00MBPT0F8/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_121_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C7559PZ1QF583C9YMRMX

Rub it down with one of those and it will polish it up, looks like it's just old wax seeing that you can scratch it.

u/WhiskyWineAndWatches · 2 pointsr/Watches

Not Strapcode specifically, but I've done this with 3m pads even on higher end pieces. Works great for rebrushing.

Lot of 5 Red 3M Scuff Pads Scotch Brite 3M Brand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBPT0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.F2TCbHJZXT6J

u/Lightedpaints · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

From the picture it appears that the paint is grainy and might have a slight orange peel effect. This means one of two things. Your paint is to thick and or your pressure is to low. What PSI are you running at? From your other comments I see you are using Mr. Color, since that is an enamel based paint you should thin it around a 1:2 ratio - 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner. That should help out a bit. With paint around that ratio you should be able to spray it at 20-30 psi with no issues. Also after you prime the piece you should scuff the surface with a red scotch bright pad lightly http://www.amazon.com/lot-Red-Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite/dp/B00MBPT0F8

This will help the paint have more a porous surface to adhere to. Let me know if you have any further issues from there.

u/picmandan · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Taking the door apart with the right tools, usually panel or trim removal tools (this is what I got) can be less difficult than you might think.

u/dbxrtc1 · 2 pointsr/mazdaspeed3

I replaced mine last week on my 2011 Speed and it was a learning experience. And yes the new part cured the false alarm issue. Here's a video on how to remove the door panel but not the actuator. Thanks to Ally at Everything DIY:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9wlWCF3LrA


I didn't read the service manual beforehand but I wish that I had. If you have questions feel free to ask.

Edit: Take lots of pics as you disassemble the inner door panel. Ally's video does a great job documenting the outer door panel.

Edit 2: A set of door panel removal tools are nice to have in your tool arsenal. I bought a set at Harbor Freight but these are very similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=szsGV&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0&pd_rd_r=6d79417f-a761-11e9-ba93-c31e6dacbe46&pd_rd_wg=8imSE&pd_rd_i=B01L8GHB7O&psc=1&refRID=KTHPKPSDHKF8K2Z5E9V0


A hook and pick set is a must have as well:
https://www.amazon.com/GreatNeck-621-Piece-Hook-Carde/dp/B000CMDQ4S/ref=sr_1_25?crid=26BXJMU79EZG9&keywords=hook+and+pick+set&qid=1563237505&s=automotive&sprefix=hook+and+%2Cautomotive%2C191&sr=1-25

u/Orlshade · 2 pointsr/subaru

I literally installed this on my 2019 4 days ago. Took about 20 minutes. Invest in a proper trim removal tool kit so you dont mess anything up
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_wjVDDbG0Z2MHG

u/Jeeper1234 · 2 pointsr/Challenger

I too have a 2015 RT Plus Shaker. And back in January I did the swap.

Here's the best price you'll find: https://www.stevewhiteparts.com/exterior-15-18-dodge-challenger-392-6.4l-front-lip-lower-chin-spoiler-mopar-factory-oem-1517lipspoiler?parent=1021

You'll find lower prices on other sites, but then their shipping is outrageous. That site has the lowest price when shipping is figured in.

and here's some other things you will need to get the job done

S&G Tool Aid 19400 Rivet Tool for Plastic Rivet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV2E50?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf You will need at least 35 of these rivets. Just get the 100 piece package as you will waste some of them. They're cheap enough anyway.

PartsSquare 100pcs Fender Liner Fastener Rivet Push Clips Retainer for Chrysler Dodge Jeep https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B2RC6WY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TssiAbG4Q20VM

You may need some of these as well. It's not a bad idea to use them inside the wheel well so that future removals are much easier.

GOOACC Nylon Bumper Fastener Rivet Clips Automotive Furniture Assembly Expansion Screws Kit Auto Body Clips 8mm - 40PCS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008427D88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_aldZPoDPnRuY6

You will also need some trim removal tools if you don't have them already. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

You will also need a deep 10mm socket like this and a long extension for the nuts inside the wheel wells. TEKTON 14191 3/8-Inch Drive by 10 mm Deep Socket, Cr-V, 6-Point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY6RBY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jCsiAb5EZJ4V3

here's Mopar's instruction for removing the front fascia: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lxe8evqu87l517u/Front%20fascia%20removal.pdf?dl=0 It's much easier to put on the new lip with the fascia off. And I'll warn you that getting the old lip off is a bitch.

The entire job will take about 5-6 hours if you're doing it by yourself. Can cut that time in half if you have someone helping you

https://imgur.com/a/uITIE46

https://imgur.com/a/uTlyeCv

u/zorkoxax · 2 pointsr/CX5

If you follow the instructions in the initial post (which indicates for each part where to apply pressure and in which sequence) and get a trim kit (ex: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nspyCbJVYTMH4), you will not break anything.

u/tobyarch · 2 pointsr/Hyundai

Headlights (you only need one pair. the cutoff is outstanding)

Map lights, license plate lights, running tail lights, and side marker lights

Reverse lights

Front turn signals (accessible from under the vehicle - pin remover and 10mm socket needed)

Rear turn signals (requires tail light disassembly)

Turn signal resistors (required to prevent hyperflashing; soldering is recommended)

Brake lights (requires tail light disassembly)

Daytime-running lights (pliers needed)

Trunk light and dome light

u/can23l2 · 2 pointsr/mazda

Those clips look similar to the ones that hold the door panels down. They were also super flush. I was able to get them off by using a flat head screw driver to lift them just enough to slide in a trim tool under the flathead, remove the flathead, and pry the clip with the tool. The tool I used came in a set. You could also probably get them at an auto parts store. I bought mine online.


Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XWD4Db6B3XYBG

u/w0mba7 · 2 pointsr/prius

I swapped the factory JBL radio/cassette/CD changer for this Sony double DIN unit which is less than $250. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158XAV1000/Sony-XAV-AX1000.html?skipvs=T

This is a basic CarPlay unit with no CD drive, no standalone navigation (but you get navigation in Carplay mode), it has Sirius XM support but not built in (has a socket on the back to plug-in the extra Sirius doodad).

Works fine for me. I think any double-DIN Carplay radio would work fine though.

I like this one because it has USB, volume knob and aux on the front and it's good value.

You can pay more and get fancier ones from various makers with features like DVD/CD drive, standalone navigation, wireless Carplay, HD radio.

I used 2 Axxess boxes recommended by the Crutchfield website to connect to the JBL factory amp and the steering wheel controls. I'm not sure retaining factory amp was worthwhile, and you may not have one. It would have worked fine with radio's built-in amp I think. Keeping the steering wheel volume buttons is nice. There is also an adaptor box that does both JBL interface and wheel controls from another maker.

I got a Metra dash kit which slots it in the dash perfectly.

I installed the radio's supplied Sony microphone instead of the Toyota one for Bluetooth calls.

I added a Pioneer backup camera :

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130NDBC8/Pioneer-ND-BC8.html

The 2005 has a factory spot for a camera (because that was a Japanese option in 2005), so I put it there.

Initially I bought the head unit from Best Buy which meant they did free installation, but their installation was so bad that I do not recommend it. After one trip back to fix things they broke I realized that every time they fixed something they broke something else, so I finished the job myself.

Things Best Buy screwed up:

They installed the Sony mic nicely at windscreen top left, ran the cable to the radio, but forgot to plug it into the back of the radio. Doh! I had to take the whole dashboard apart to fix this.

They instlalled backup camera fixed to nothing, just hanging by cable pointing in roughly the right direction (I dremeled a groove for the camera cable in the original Toyota mounting plate which they had removed, glued plate back into place, attached camera to it properly).

They didn't reconnect the dashboard dimmer switch so dash lights could not be dimmed. I took the lower left dash apart and plugged it in.

They cracked two dash vent pieces. They paid for and replaced one but I later noticed they'd cracked the other and replaced it myself. This all required used parts from EBay.

They lost half the special flanged nuts that hold the hatchback handle piece on, which I noticed when it started to fall off (I got more from Toyota dealer for like $2 a nut. That's a lot for a few nuts but cheap for a repair.).

They lost various other dashboard nuts and bolts that I haven't replaced yet but dashboard is currently holding together.

​

So in short, hire a competent radio installer or do it yourself carefully. Free installation isn't free, it turns out.

If you do any work yourself you will need a car trim removal kit like this one:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It has various tools to take dash panels off without damaging them. I found YouTube videos to help me take the dash apart and properly remount the camera.

​

It was a pain but the end result works great. The Sony's Bluetooth is much better than the factory BT for phone calls. Now there's music streaming over Bluetooth too. Radio works fine. Backup camera is great, comes up on radio screen when you engage reverse. In Carplay mode (with iPhone plugged into USB) it does great navigation via choice of map apps, Podcast app works fine, Siri will read text messages to me, great music support.

u/chillywilly69 · 1 pointr/MachinePorn

found it. thank you!

u/getzall · 1 pointr/mercedes

You should be able to pop the panel off with a panel popper tool. Car stereo shops do it all the time.

u/Pilot1226 · 1 pointr/subaru

I bought a Lisle tool that helps a ton with lifting them.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-35260-Plastic-Fastener-Remover/dp/B0002SRCMO

It's glorious. I have used it a bunch of times now on several cars.

u/Rank2 · 1 pointr/TerrainBuilding

When in doubt: Bondo.

u/GeneralMalfunction · 1 pointr/MLPLounge

Ah yes, the spell of covering a torn bumper by turning into a Zebra.

To be honest, this stuff seems to work a lot better.

u/Zarotu · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Can I use Meguiar’s Wash and Wax anywhere as an alternative to Ammo Hydrate?

Which is a better option in terms of cost and performance, Meguiar's D110 or CarPro Reset? Meguiar's Hyper Dressing or Optimum Opti-Bond?

Is Meguiar's Natural Protectant Shine a good alternative to 303 Aerospace Protectant for now since I have a full bottle of it unused.

u/trollster4 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396913798&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/Sonax-230200-755-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B003UT3S6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914006&sr=1-1&keywords=sonax+full+effect+wheel+cleaner It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914054&sr=1-1&keywords=foam+applicator+pad

u/Mazhurg · 1 pointr/PS4

Best bet: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA

Dries faster than rubbing alcohol, safe to plastics and cleans thoroughly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cLnDxM4O_eg

u/AylissSellsword · 1 pointr/nissanpathfinder

For the rough idle, clean the mass airflow sensor. This fixed it every time: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05110-Mass-Sensor-Cleaner/dp/B000J19XSA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=maf+cleaner&qid=1549668234&sr=8-1

​

u/Swagmustdie · 1 pointr/subaru

I would recommend cleaning the maf sensor with a maf specific cleaner

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J19XSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_y0SHwbC48FV82 this is the one product I would recommend

u/Racer-X- · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Those IATs don't sound that far out of line. 130°F to 150°F is pretty common after it's been parked a bit, or in stop and go traffic. When running 10 miles or more at highway speed, it should drop down and approach outside air temperature. The only "outlier" in your list is at startup in the morning. IAT should be very close to outside air temperature if the thing has been sitting overnight.

If your fuel trims are running consitently negative, you might want to clean the wire in the MAF sensor. Use MAF sensor cleaner on that. Spray it on the wire pretty heavily. Let the stuff drip off. Any that remains should fully dry (only takes a few minutes) before you apply power to the MAF. If you have to wipe off any that drips off and puddles in the housing, use a paper towel or clean rag and don't touch the "hot wire" in the sensor. There's a special cleaner for this part. I use CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner. amzn.com/B000J19XSA/ is one source, but it's available locally at most FLAPSs.

The PCM uses engine coolant temperature and intake air temperatures combined when determining mixture maps. The weighting to each depends on throttle position. Below about 20% throttle opening, it's weighted 100% to engine coolant temperature and intake air temperature is ignored. Above 80% throttle opening, it's weighted 100% to intake air temperature and coolant temperature is ignored. In between, its a sliding scale, the wider the throttle opening, the more IAT is weighted and the less ECT is weighted in the calculations.

u/Lodus · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

This is the backing pad I picked up. Sorry for the late reply though! I am currently looking at picking up these Lake Country pads. I was thinking 3 of the orange pads, 3 of the white, and 3 of the red? Either that or 2 of each.

u/GFJ92 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

It's the Griot's Garage one from the wiki. I got the one with the longer cord and I also got a 5" backing plate from amazon as well.

Links to both:
Polisher
Backing Plate

u/yoorsh · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

January 9th and female

Under 40

Under 20

u/Zokuta · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

u/vajeanius · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hardbor freight DA polisher with a coupon along with this backing plate and this bundle of pads. Along with M105 & M205 & a good wax.

u/rebelx · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Are either one of these the right product?

The water reservoir is made out of plastic (I believe), but the first one is specially for wet use and the second one is more geared towards different types of plastics moreso than the first one.

Not sure what to pick. What do you suggest?

u/zordac · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

Taking the disc in/out of the clips is going to put pressure on that spot. The disc spinning on the spindle inside the cube can put pressure on that spot. It could easily spread.

I cannot see the other side obviously but it looks extremely close to the data section of the disc.

The crack can be "welded" using something like this epoxy. It will not be a pretty fix but it will prevent it from spreading. Doing this will reduce the value of the disc though so; a trade-off?

If it were me. I would contact the seller and tell them what you have found. Most reasonable sellers will work with you on either a discount or a refund. If the discount is large enough it may be worth just keeping as-is.

u/allnutty · 1 pointr/VintageApple

Could you use something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JB-Plastic-Weld-Fast-setting-Reinforced/dp/B003S2E4UE ?

Then potentially sand down, there will be a blemish - but it won't but a big crack instead

u/theedang · 1 pointr/pcmods

What kind of case and what kind of switch? Do you have a picture? Are you sure you need a plastic filler and can't use something like a rubber moulding?

There are a number of epoxies and putties like auto body repair kits that you can buy that could do what you want, but most require careful application, then sanding and painting so you can get it flush.

I think this one could be a general purpose one to look at and work with.

u/kingsheepman · 1 pointr/fixit

Use expoxy putty like J-B Weld Plasticweld epoxy putty https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Plastiweld&qid=1574710414&sr=8-2. I used it before to fix a cracked garbage bin. It dries tough and quite sturdy. Although keep in mind, when it is dried/hardened, the color is white.

u/kay_bizzle · 1 pointr/Aquariums

The brace on my 37 tall broke during a move, so I used jb weld and a thin strip of plexiglass to reconnect and brace the brace. Sort of a braceception type situation.

u/channing173 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is a picture of what I'm working with. The picture of the hole is near the bottom of the album.

I was thinking of using bondo or something like this.

Of the two, which is better?

u/jb007gd · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I use these when applying the M105:
Chemical Guys BUFX_102_HEX5 Hex-Logic Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad, Orange (5.5 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_JnEUTcXh1t2xd


Then I switch to these to apply the M205:
Chemical Guys BUFX_104_HEX5 Hex-Logic Light-Medium Polishing Pad, White (5.5 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_3CuEdXSpOPLHj

To be honest, I can't tell much of a difference before and after using the M205. I can definitely see improvement after using the M105 but yeah, last week I did my front driver's side fender and it took me five hours. Sad face.
Sometimes I think I should have bought a flex as I understand they work faster. I went with the PC because I understood it to be extremely safe. Being my first time and all, I wanted to be safe rather than burn my paint. But yeah, five hours/panel is ridiculous.

u/911x335 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Look at all of the colors of pads out there. Blues, blacks, and Red are for finishing. Whites, oranges,and yellows are medium to high aggressive.

On my black paint I used an Orange, Green, Black, then red for waxing. I used CG V36 and V38. But used the V36 on my Orange pad only then V38 on the Green and Black pads. To bring me to a liquid wax/sealant on the red pad. Let it cure, then the next day applying Collinite as my last step.

I don't think you should focus on removing 100% of the swirls. But make it look 50-80% better. You don't want to wear down your paint. I highly recommend a test spot. My favorite is the top of the trunk. Tape off half of it. Do half through all of your steps. Review it with a few different lights, and sunlight to see your progress. Maybe take some photos of it. Once you get to the waxing with the polisher, it'll cover up the remaining swirls as the machine is amazing for waxing. Just don't machine wax a car if you haven't clayed or polished.

The biggest thing is to get the pattern of buffing down. And to be patient. For me, I could never do an entire car in one day. I'd do the hood and one half of the car, as best I could, then do the other half the next weekend or the next day.

Another thing, go on the Lexus Forums or even Autopia detailing and look at their detailing steps on the same car/paint. They may show the products they used and pads. But it's also not about the products but you can ask them questions if you need any quick tips. Overall, I think a few passes with 3 pads with a liquid wax will do wonders for your test spot. And if you proceed then tape off sections of the hood into 6ths and door panels into 4ths.

Amazon example: Hover over the Style for the pad and it will show you the color.. You can review the crap out of every product out there, but you just have to decide, then do it. I've used those exact pads and they worked awesome. Choose 2 polishes and 1 liquid wax along with 1 hand wax like Collinite or something else. Don't forget to clay bar your car before polishing and even though I don't always use a backing plate, it makes handling the DA polisher easier.

u/Senor_Steve · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Why a smaller pad size? Just to focus on a smaller area? Also what do you think about Chemical Guys Backing Pads. I'm not sure really which ones I would need though in terms of light/medium/heavy for cutting, polishing.

If that is correct for the steel wool would I be able to buff that out using the 1200 then 2000? I only did a couple passes lightly on the scratches with the steel wool, but the result is a "fuzzy" looking area with the rest of my car having that black gloss look. I'm not looking for perfection just not as noticeable as it is now since there isn't a luster/shine.

Thanks for the feedback!

u/mzarif · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

The M205 is the polishing liquid.

Don't bother waxing. I would get something like Gtechniq C2v3 or Opti Seal as a sealant instead. Easier application and more durable than a wax.

Get some Optimum No-Rinse while you're at it and some detailing clay too (you can use the no-rinse to wash, and use it as a clay lube) You should probably clay your car before polishing anyway :)

Definitely get the Microfiber cutting pads https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMC6-Microfiber-Cutting-Disc/dp/B005JPJNO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482853664&sr=1-1&keywords=meguires+microfiber+cutting+pad

u/JMunks · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMC6-Microfiber-Cutting-Disc/dp/B005JPJNO0

Would this be a good separate polisher pad? I just got my orange pad today.

u/TheCamboRambo · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I finally stopped being lazy and fully read the 101 guide from the sidebar instead of skimming over it like I did last time. I think I understand now.

From my understanding and from these two charts: One. Two.

During the Polishing phase:

  • Unless the paint/top coat is pretty badly damaged, I won't need to use a course/compounding agent on the polisher or a cutting pad.

  • I can use a finishing pad on the polisher and something like the Motenza Power Lock that you mention every 6 months or so and apply the wax or some other kind of sealant to keep the paint protected.

    And I can just wash and use the quick detailer as needed in between to maintain?

    Also just noticed you're close to Dallas, I'm moving to the Houston area in the middle of this year for work!
u/Kye7 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Should I use the 105 or 205 with the microfiber pad? This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JPJNO0

And this is the "polishing disk" I have. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYCXMUE Is this the correct pad for the 205?

u/juttep1 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Two part epoxy might work? JB plastic weld

u/LanFeusT23 · 1 pointr/DIY

Thanks JB Weld seems like it should do the trick?

u/killubear · 1 pointr/Nerf

Both 3D printed accesoriees (the front left tactical rail for the flashlight and the 8 dart holder) were glued on using JB Plastic Weld. The front rail needed some additional support so it got some hot glue on the sides too.

u/CoffeeDrinker99 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Griot’s Garage 6” w/ 25’ cord


Hey all! Thanks for all the great advice most of you give on here. I learn a ton from you.

I need/want to buy my first DA Polisher and I’ve been following prices for a few months now on different brands. This one above usually is $165 but now is only $138. Should I go for it or hold out for a better one like The Boss for $380 currently and see if that drops?

I’d REALLY love a Rupes but can’t afford $400 and I’ve never seen those prices drop.

I know this DA is a mid level one and honestly will more than likely be good for me. I’m just going to be doing my GLI and my GF car. Maybe a few others here and there from time to time. Although, next year I’d like to maybe start picking up a few jobs every so often.

Thanks for all your time and advice in advance.

Hopefully a future master detailer I’ll become.

u/habs33 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

The Griot Garage 6" often goes for $150 ish on Amazon (as recently as May 27). https://ca.camelcamelcamel.com/Griots-Garage-10813LNGCRD-Orbital-Polisher/product/B009UKUURO?context=search

u/bendvis · 1 pointr/motorcycles

At $25, I might have to try that out too.

u/kmets4 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

How about something such as 3M paint defender. If your looking for something temporary this may be the way to go, and it wont look hideous.

Link

u/dedlewamp · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

3M makes a spray on Paint Defender film that is designed to be applied for up to one year. An actual clear bra would provide better protection, but would cost more and need to be applied professionally.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-90000-Paint-Defender-Spray/dp/B00BSKYM82

u/seoulx · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

i handwaxed with collinite 845 for the first time last weekend and im wondering if i let it dry properly. belows says

  • After waxing the entire car, I let it dry to a haze for about 40 minutes. As the temperature and humidity vary from location to location, you can simply practice the swipe test. If you're not familiar with the swipe test, it's when you swipe your finger across the panel to reveal either shiny paint, or a streaky finish. If the wax streaks where you swiped your finger, the wax has not dried completely yet. When the wax swipes clean, meaning the area of wax removed with your finger is clean and shiny, the wax has fully dried to a haze and is ready to be removed with a soft microfiber towel.

    when i swipe my finger across the paint i see a finger print. Did i not spend enough time buffing out the wax? I hand buffed till I could no longer see haze. (car looks great regardless btw, but i didnt get that mirror finish i was hoping for. I had just assumed it was bc i didnt compound/polish)


    another question i have is, i plan on doing a full color correction in a couple weeks, is 1 pad enough for the entire car? another website said i should have at least 3 compounding pads and 3 polishing pads for the DA.

    one more edit, is this a good deal for pads? https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUF_HEX_KITS_8P-Hex-Logic-Buffing/dp/B00BTGDR9A/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41FHcFmWnyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=6V1WEB4FCNTK930TJE46
u/synrgi · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Do you think it'd be worth the extra $5 or so to get the line of Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads seen here? Do you know how these pads compare in terms of quality and longevity?

u/TheRealRacketear · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I don't know about the megs buffer and backing plate but I feel everyone should have a 5" plate in their arsenal.

I found this deal in the hex logic pads..

Chemical Guys BUF_HEX_KITS_8P Hex-Logic Buffing Pad Kit (5.5 Inch) (8 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BTGDR9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LsCOyb6KEPQBV

It serves my needs well.

u/beefswizzle · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I got them in this set and this is the orange pad after one use.

http://imgur.com/RvBNM9U

http://imgur.com/VQ7QeDw

Don't know if the divet in the middle is from too much pressure or poor quality pads. The White pad I used for polishing is fine.

u/solracarevir · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I went with Torq cause I found a package on Amazon which includes the DA, and 5 Hex Logic Pads for $180, the Lowest Griots Garage DA that i saw was this one, and with a 7 Hex Logic Pad kit for $40 I'll end up with similary priced combos.

But the Griots is superior than te Torq? Or Im getting a good deal on the Torq that justifies it?

u/Flounderasu · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I have a black car (old E39 BMW) - never tried DA and I've been lurking and reading this sub, trying to learn proper techniques.

I have always been deathly afraid of doing any black with any machine since my first black truck in the '90s, I left swirls galore with just a cleaner wax (by hand) - a buddy of mine had to buff out.

I picked up a cheap DA HF that was on sale. Now I know I should pickup a smaller 5" backing plate and now I need foam pads - or maybe MF pads? I was going to pickup the hex-logic pad kit - or Meg's MF pads (figured MF would be better but looking like they are more abrasive). The wiki only says I need Yellow/orange/white, but I"ve seen other posts with blue and black - and also talking about MF pads. So what do I need or should I go with?

Something like this?

Or can someone point me in the right direction here? Should I just buy the pads individually? I know CG's aren't preferred here...


I plan on doing M205 (maybe M105 - but I want to start with 205 and then I'll go back with 105 if needed. The car was corrected back by the PO more than 3 years ago).

u/midwaypcb · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Thanks for your reply. The case I'm looking at is a friend's car which seems to have been keyed, I can feel the scratch with my nail. I imagine this means it has gone beyond the clearcoat. So wet sanding would basically be a quick way to take down the clearcoat as opposed to a slower way using a DA with pads like these? http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Hex-Logic-Buffing-Items/dp/B00BTGDRB8/

u/Sup3rhybrid · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

So with this kit I bought, should I start out with the light blue pad and work my way up?

u/neildmaster · 1 pointr/Detailing

I have used Griot's Garage products for a long time and had excellent results with their polishes and pads. First, you need to assess your odds of actually removing the marks with polish and pads. Two ways: get it wet and see if they tend to disappear? If so, they will likely come out. Second way is to scratch it with your fingernail. If it catches your nail in the groove, it is likely too deep and may need touch up paint. It's hard to tell from the pic.

GG microfiber pads are excellent at removing heavy marks like this when used with the Fast Correcting Cream (their strongest polish/compound). It can sometimes leave some hazing, which easily comes out with lighter polish. For foam pads, this is a pretty good kit cost wise, the pads get the job done, and it comes with a good pad cleaner.

Hope this helps.

u/gimpwiz · 1 pointr/cars
u/Faloopa · 1 pointr/Miata

A set of trim removal tools make removing the gauge cluster so much easier. I've removed the gauge shroud a few times on my '92 and those flexible pry tools helped avoid cracking it.

I need to replace my speedometer cable too. The first time I did an LED swap in the gauge cluster I damaged the flexible circuit board and killed my idiot lights and tach. When I do the speedo cable, I'll remove the cluster just to avoid damaging this one's board.

u/commiecat · 1 pointr/subaru

Awesome, good luck with it and feel free to PM me if you have any questions. If you buy from Crutchfield then I believe they'll send you a PDF with instructions on removing door panels, head unit, etc. I have one for the OB which should be the same as your Legacy and would be happy to email it or Dropbox it to you if you're not going with Crutchfield.

Definitely have some trim removal tools before you get started. You can get them for a few dollars on Amazon or Harbor Freight. Makes removing panels easier without scratching or creasing them like you might with a screwdriver.

u/striker1211 · 1 pointr/Toyota

I did it the hard way. It really wasn't that hard. You will need a set of trim removal tools like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNMLQAG
and a drill bit and I think that was it. I don't even remember a screwdriver but you might have needed one. I followed a youtube video. I did it on a blazing hot day and get it done in 20 minutes. I remember my sweat dripping onto the rear cover thingy and evaporating as I looked down... I recommend doing it on a cool day because you will be under a big window :)

u/hkibad · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I instated mine myself with this and powered it from the OBD by hotwiring with this. Never did it before. Just shove the wires into the gaps.

u/BrotherAliMazda · 1 pointr/mazda

https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520380837&sr=8-3&keywords=panel+remover+tool

And personally I would try to do steering wheel controls, I doubt its $$$ just the labor of finding the right module and wiring it up.

u/jomomobobo · 1 pointr/modular

Car interior panel tools, like this: https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG

Brain fart. I meant one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Jakemy-Professional-Opening-Electronics-JM-OP06/dp/B00ZWEAOSW/

I've also used plastic bicycle tire levers with some success, it'll depend how flush the knob is with the panel.

u/Appljuze · 1 pointr/CarAV

I have this kit. I can probably use the fork looking ones for those clips. When I pull them out, should I just pull straight out? Perpendicular to the door

u/ElementalFiend · 1 pointr/gamecollecting
u/LuckyDrawers · 1 pointr/TeslaLounge

I'm not sure why Safelite wouldn't repair but I have had great success with chips in my wife's car using this kit. The chip won't be noticable after. The kit also claims it'll be stronger than before the chip (sounds dubious though).

Rain-X 600001 Windshield Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IPS4APU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_h0rHDbDSJYYZM

u/Phaedrus0230 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Have you considered fixing it yourself?

I used this and honestly forget I even had a chip until I see posts like this one... and it was somewhere in the driver's line of sight if I remember correctly. I'll have to see if I can find it. Worked great and I had never done it before. $10

u/MrSteve920 · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

You could try using something like the windshield repair kit that Rain-X makes. It's a UV cured resin repair. I've had good luck using it to repair small chips before.

Rain-X 600001 Windshield Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IPS4APU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KYcYCbYC9QMKR

u/NateSee · 1 pointr/Machinists

That guy is right, although I would suggest red scotch brite. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/lot-Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite-Brand/dp/B00MBPT0F8

Just scrub it by hand and it gives a matte silver, very uniform surface finish.

Example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_2_xhF4Brg

u/bob84900 · 1 pointr/CarHacking

It looks like the new one you linked to purports to be a direct swap-in replacement for the stock unit.

However, they also say to send them a picture of your existing unit so they can confirm compatibility; so maybe do that.

Edit: with Amazon's return policies being so good, you could also just give it a shot.

Edit 2: I just realized you might have been asking about the actual install process. It shouldn't be too bad. Here's a video I found detailing the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-UEH_RkRTA

You'll want to get a set of trim removal tools like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2A3H5I2OJVFU6&keywords=trim+removal+tool&qid=1565547229&s=gateway&sprefix=trim+remo%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-5

The only tool you should need aside from that is a #2 Philips (maybe JIS? but Philips should work) screwdriver.

u/fiestypete · 1 pointr/WRX

If you don't have one of the kits to pull stuff apart I highly recommend one. It made my life a lot easier when I was working on some Tuesday. This is the one I have: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0DpQDbP1B7G8X

u/harryc8786 · 1 pointr/Subaru_Outback

Just installed mine yesterday and here's some tips:
Pay attention to the 2 different sized plugs when removing the bumper cover so you try putting right plug in the right hole.

Pay attention to which piece goes over/under when looking at the wheel well area so you are confident how to put the cover back on. I say this because I had one part going UNDER another and it made snapping the bumper cover back on difficult. One clip was not snapping back in until I realized I had the cover going under another piece when it should have been OVER top.

I bought some cheap auto trim piece kit that helps pulling plugs out and also plastic tools that help pop clips without scratching the paint. Here's the link to what I bought: Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kpJaBb0EEWNQ9

u/kraegar · 1 pointr/mazda

I don't believe you can downgrade the firmware. Installing the version 70 first is a requirement for the "official" android auto. I paid $162 for the USB cables and dock ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KRPSRKH ), and $10 for the trim kit ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GHB7O )

I found the instructions to follow here: https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=679114

There's a link to an 'hdrive' site, find the NA firmware, put them on a USB key (16gb or smaller) and follow the instructions to the letter. It's easy.

Then find the folder for the videos of the cable install, find the closest match to yours. Also easy.

Firmware took an hour (mostly sitting and waiting). Cables took an hour in my 2018 CX-5.

Both were easy as far as anything technical I've ever done. Very easy. Just take your time, follow each step carefully.

u/BellaBc · 1 pointr/WRX

I've used rally armor for a while now never had an issue. Their set up is safer in my opinion because they are designed to tear off if something were to get lodge in between the tire and the mud flap vs ripping off your cars panels. That being said I've never taken my subies rock climbing, but the videos are out there. If you're willing to spend the cash go rally armor. If not the cheaper options will probably be just fine for normally driving.

Invest in a forked tool to remove clips before you install them. Makes your life easier.

QMET Plastic Fastener Remover clip removal tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0734VKNYK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kD1qDbT64R016

u/walkdontrun · 1 pointr/KiaSoulClub

You'll need a tool like this to remove the rivets without breaking them.

u/ItalianStew · 0 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Do I only need one type of pad then? Just the Meg's 5.5" microfiber pads? I found these: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMC6-Microfiber-Cutting-Disc/dp/B005JPJNO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396544993&sr=8-1&keywords=6%22+microfiber+cutting+pad

Is there a polishing pad equivalent?

u/mightyprometheus · 0 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This polisher? I remember reading some time ago that there was some mod people were doing with this one and the power switch or something and that the newer model wasn't able to do this?

Also, because it has variable speed - what is a good speed to work with?

I found this and this. Any input on these?

u/humbucker426 · -1 pointsr/AutoDetailing

You can still keep the rotary to use on newly repainted cars. But a DA is still the best choice for daily detailing. A good choice would be Griot's 6" http://amzn.to/1RTSMt2
It's a little heavy but has good torque and cutting power when used with a MF pad.

u/teckademics · -2 pointsr/cars

I'll go first,

  • Ryobi 1600PSI Electric Pressure washer, picked this up for $100 after a coupon, normally $120. I got in the mail a couple months ago. Just testing it out now and it seems to have just the right amount of power for automotive use. It'll clean the salt off my Charger and the Mud off my CJ.

  • Chemical Guys BUFX Pads. Pretty much can't go wrong with anything from Chemical Guys from my expierance. These pads do an amazing job but if your technique is off or not mastered, you can do some damage.
u/PM_MOAR_NUDES · -2 pointsr/CX5

No contex. Self install, pretty normal post in the sub reddit.


Tresalto Auto Trim Removal Tool Kit, Set of 5 Pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j0A9BbCR2Y5GC

Your just a moron bud, this is pretty BASIC knowledge