Best brake cleaners according to redditors

CRC Brakleen is the best instant killer of Black Widow spiders money can buy

You don't know what brakekleen is?
Edit: it's the best stuff in the world
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=psdc_15718981_t1_B0002FU44K
You have to get the chlorinated stuff though, if it says non chlorinated don't waste your money.

My $100ish must have use everyday options include: cordless 3/8 ratchet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CZWBYBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Tw.2DbXFTMF30, lighting! a good rechargeable headlamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV3VTYB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aI.2DbYZ76FY7, flashlight or decent under hood light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTXC016/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sK.2Db40MCX8D, a portable jump box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015TKUPIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mL.2DbX8E94SN or 24 cans of brake cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JRPDW7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Du.2DbZ2WMZDE

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):

https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SPGFT8 Brushes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00425FUW2 Flux

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HT2QW KimWipes

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019SLLOMY Tweezers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

CRC Brakleen Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GlHrzbCJQDQZZ

Order it yourself, unless you live in CA or NJ, in which case this might be more useful.

For anyone who is interested, I used VHT Gold Caliper Paint.

I kept the brake lines connected but removed the calipers and pads. Then washed/scrubbed them with soap water, followed by a wipe down with denatured alcohol to remove any oils.

Then I masked everything off, as you can see in the first pic. After three coats I was happy with how they looked. Next came a heat gun to cure the paint. About 20 minutes on each caliper.

Reassembled and was done! I'm more than happy with the stock brakes on the SV but wanted a bit more color. I'm really pleased with how they turned out!

edit: Not A Lawyer


 


 




This is absolutely the answer.



I suggest a Fernco seal rather than a wax ring. It is more secure and a tighter/better seal than oldschool wax rings.



A wax ring only gives you one shot to get a good seal. Once mushed it won't seal well. If the toilet moves, it may leak.



The Fernco has a powerful adhesive that sticks to the bottom of the toilet and the funnel extends a little bit into the pipe.




There are two sizes, 3" and 4".



To do an extra good job, use brake cleaner or Goof Off (not goo-gone or citrus) to strip all the wax residue from the toilet.



Make sure the toilet is well bolted down, doesn't rock.


 



Links: (no affiliate/interest)



https://www.amazon.com/Fernco-Inc-FTS-4-4-Inch-Toilet/dp/B000BVMZUG/


https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05089-BRAKLEEN-Brake-Cleaner/dp/B000LDR9HI/



https://www.amazon.com/Goof-Off-FG653-Professional-Strength/dp/B002MPPYYS/


https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-04-3645-6-Inch-4-Inch-Washers/dp/B000FH6GI8/

Nintendo joystick shafts go through a captured ball in the base which probably needs a thorough cleaning.
I would start by completely disassembling it and cleaning the entire base, especially the area around the ball. I use Brakleen to de-gunk them. Then after it dries, I use a silicone lubricant on all the metal mating surfaces.

I mean brake-parts cleaner. it melts that shit right off. I just had to do it with my car.

Thank you!! Absolutely, here's the video that we watched and followed very closely: https://youtu.be/H9xn066qfKo

Some notes:

1. Must clean the calipers of all the dirt and grime from the road with this:
   
   CRC 05089 BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable -19 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fbdvDbZNSKSJG
   
   
2. Then, take a gritty sandpaper and polish the caliper so it's a smooth surface. Don't overdo it but just enough so the paint has an even surface to adhere to.
   
   120 Grit Dry Wet Sandpaper Sheets by LotFancy, 9 x 3.6", Silicon Carbide, Pack of 45 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WV8PN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NfdvDbPYQJ1VG
   
   
3. The paint is awesome but do thin layers and let it dry before doing the next coat. Took about 3-4 coats for full opacity. The paint gets thick and a little goopy (which is a good thing) sobog recommendation is to practice on another car's caliper first if possible or practice painting a can so you have a feel for how the paint moves and settles.
   
   
   
4. I used 3 brushes: a large flexible soft paint brush, grabbed two eye shadow brushes to get into the nook and crannies. If you or wife/partner is into makeup, there should be an unused brush stash you could use. If not, grab these at Target, they are exactly $1.
   
   A. Good for the holes in the caliper and very tight spots (I painted almost all the way to the back of the caliper to make sure it looked red at every possible angle).
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-blending-eye-brush/-/A-14653397
   
   B. A stiffer brush for the verrrrry tight spots where the caliper meets the brake pad and you do NOT want to have Shakey hands and get anything near those pads.
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-concealer-brush/-/A-13958833
   
   C. For extra measure when you are doing touch up in those tight spots (this one is $3):
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-angled-eyeliner-brush/-/A-13586153
   
   
5. We did this project in one day, it took a good 7 hours counting in the time it took to get each one of Lord Commander's tires off one by one, carefully painting, carefully getting the tires back on then slooowly driving him back into the garage.
   
   
6. Do not drive for a good 24 painful hours to make sure the paint is dry.
   
   
7. Get these heat resistant stickers to apply after the paint it dry (so you'll have to take the tires off all over again unless you have a place to suspend your baby car for 2 days). You'll have some leftover and you can Teslafy anything you want. We did a quick wipe down off the already painted calipers to make sure the stickers went on clean.
   
   https://www.ebay.com/itm/TESLA-HI-TEMP-PREMIUM-BRAKE-CALIPER-DECALS-STICKERS-CAST-VINYL-/362070373338
   
   
8. Labor of love is an understatement but it gets easier with each caliper. You'll have a ton of paint leftover for future touchups but we've had no problems since doing this 3 months ago with both paint and logo. Take breaks because it's borderline back breaking!
   
   
9. You can spray paint also as seen here
   https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/want-painted-calipers-dont-want-to-spend-600-on-them.140873/#post-3346753
   
   My husband didn't want to do this method because prep looked much more intense and he'd figure I wouldn't mind a painting project on a cloudy Saturday afternoon.
   
   If you are in my state, I'd be happy to help. I'm new to reddit so not sure how to do the direct messages but let me know! Hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask questions when you start this. 150% worth the effort. It's beautiful and the Tesla service man honestly thought our SR+ was a P3. Even after pulling up the computer to look at the specs, he kept saying,"You're so lucky to have a performance!". I didn't have the heart to tell him it wasn't. Best of luck!!!

I use a bit of scotchbrite pad or a small abrasive wheel (just remove the rust).

One VERY handy thing is a hub-cleaner attachment that has a hole so you can scrub off the rust around the wheel studs. ALWAYS clean the rust off the hub face and the back of the wheel.

Also in terms of doing brakes the right way, get a runout gauge and caliper and learn how to index rotors. Failing to index rotors will result in pedal vibration over time,

http://www.hendonpub.com/resources/article_archive/results/details?id=1787

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24686-Brake-Hub-Resurfacing/dp/B06W55QQHG/

Is this kind of mileage out of pads normal or am I doing something wrong?

I had to change both pads (front and back) after not even 300 km (~185 miles) riding (~10.000 meters (~33.000 ft) altitude change). Pads used: Link

I am not that light weighted (but sub 100 kg (~200 lbs)) but changing the pads every month sucks. Discs are clean (and I clean them every now and then with breakcleaner and I have no rubbing/sound problem.

I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.

Try brake parts cleaner. The kind that contains tetrachloroethylene, which is a dry cleaning fluid. It won't disturb the paper. Idk about the ink, but it is worth a try.

strip them with Brakleen and then re-oil them with some tool oil.

Question.

Why does the grease need removed? Greasing electrical contacts isn't necessarily uncommon to help prevent corrosion (and copper loves to corrode in ways that electricity doesn't like).

If you're sure you want to remove the grease, use America's favorite libation: CRC Brākleen in the non-California-approved red can. It's usually cheaper locally: I bought some today at Harbor Freight for $7.

You can also buy it by the gallon or larger, up to (at least) 55 gallon drums.

I recommend the paint route, it doesn't look cheesy, leaves all clearances as OE intended (no interference from covers causing certain wheels to have fitment issues), and is easy to maintain.

My general steps when doing it are:

1. Jack up vehicle on one corner
   
2. Remove wheel
   
3. tape off/cover surrounding body panels to the wheel well
   
4. tape off/cover inside of wheel well/non caliper parts
   
5. tape off/cover parts of the brake that should not be painted (ie. banjo fittings)
   
6. clean/degrease the caliper with break cleaner or similar
   
7. Start with a light mist coat of caliper paint(kit, single can, etc) such as:
   kit
   single can
   single can again- This is what I always use
   
   
8. Give mist coat slight time to dry, then do a more full coat.
   
9. Repeat extra coats as necessary
   
10. Remove masking (do not let paint dry before doing so or you may peel up paint), be careful not to touch wet paint and ruin your job, make sure to remove all masking from the area
    
11. Remount wheel on whatever location you were working
    
12. Move to next wheel/corner of vehicle
    
    Also some people like to paint the rotor hats to match, I personally think they look weird except in black, but its your car so do what you want to do.
    
    Be sure to post some pics for us as well!
    

Have you ever tried something like that with success? Is this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08180-Power-Brake-Cleaner/dp/B002WQHY9K the product you might use to clean off the WD40?

I found this but I don't know how well it will stick to or be nearly as durable as the original porcelain coating. Is it really bad?

check this out