The mechanic in me likes the idea, but I do wonder if it will get knocked off by a rock, a log, or other debris on the road.

Years ago I fell in love with the Mityvac Extractors.

No lifting the car, no crawling around; just jam the tube down the dipstick tube, hit a button, and Viola! Oil is sucked out.

For those who say there will be oil left, there's not. If it's an ounce out of a gallon, I'd be surprised.

Do this in the garage, the driveway - wherever. Better yet, have your teenager do it Just make sure he tightens the cap after adding oil!

It's embarrassing as hell to pull up to the valet and your car is smoking like a Kuwaiti oil rig.

$50

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-0100-European-Bleeder/dp/B0002KM5L0

Sometimes you need to buy a vehicle-specific adapter. I had to do that for my Nissan.

Obvious one but check to see if all your connections are tight. I was going crazy trying to bleed my dirt bike before I realized there was a fitting in the middle of my aftermarket brake line that needs to be tightened down (it was there so you could loosen and spin the fitting at the caliper).

Also I have a vaccuum bleeder and one of these and I like this little $10 check valve better honestly.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0143-Hydraulic-Bleeder/dp/B000MXW2EM/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000MXW2EM&pd_rd_r=V1MX08VMPN3Q4WQKGGNQ&pd_rd_w=bNFkI&pd_rd_wg=oQk4a&psc=1&refRID=V1MX08VMPN3Q4WQKGGNQ&tag=pda0d8-20&camp=1789&creative=9325

Motive Bleeder w/ Adapter

This is the one I got, and it is perfect.

EDIT: And it really makes the job simple. While others don't, I found it easier to just remove the cowl for extra room, otherwise it kept kinking the line.

Brewed using BST's excellent guide, of course. You can see the printout in the picture.

Another shot of the unit with filtration taking place

By using this super simple setup I was able to filter 100ml of test in roughly about 5 minutes. I actually broke the first filter and had to use a second unit to re-filter, so be careful when applying vacuum. Three or four pumps gets it dripping just fine, then just walk away. I say again, as soon as it starts dripping, stop pumping. It will go fast enough. Seriously. No more than 5hg of vacuum. 10hg of vacuum pulled right through a filter. I lost a little more product than I would have like in the process between breaking one filter and having to re-filter, but c'est la vie.

These are also overfilled to about 11ml per vial or so. I'd have got 9.5 vials I think if I hadn't popped a filter unit and overfilled.


$30 hand pump http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KB9D3UO?psc=1

$10 filter unit http://www.medical-and-lab-supplies.com/filtration/disposable-vacuum-filters/complete-filter-units/nalgene-mf75-complete-sterile-filter-units-150ml-55mm-dia-filter.html

re Mike's suggestion, I bought this kit and it helped immensely https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXW2EM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hardest part is bleeding the brakes. If you have a friend to pump the pedal or a pressure bleeder then it is not hard.

Also make sure to have actual flare wrenches. A standard claw wrench will strip the brake line flare nuts.

OEM lines are fine, that is what I would buy, and they're truly DOT certified. They lasted 30+ years.

I don't know why anyone wouldn't just use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS

If you have help, you don't need special tools to bleed the brakes. Just a wrench, something to catch the fluid in, and a foot for the pedal. Though not required, it helps to put some hose on the bleeder screw to direct the fluid to the catch container so it doesn't make a mess.

If you have to do it by yourself you're going to want to buy some kind of vacuum bleeding tool. [Something like this would do it.] (http://www.amazon.com/HFS-Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Tuner/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462208343&sr=1-6&keywords=mityvac)

For the DIY brake fluid flush job, I've found these two products to be super useful:

• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CP79C7S/ - acts as a big reservoir for the brake fluid
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA/ - catch bottle with one way valve to prevent air bubbles
  
  I can do a full flush so easily now which happens a few times a year as I track my car.

Looks like the internal cylinder failed. Looking at the picture though, you are most likely going to be replacing a few more things than just the cylinder. From what I can see in the image, you will most likely need to replace the following:

1. Rear left cylinder\piston (as it failed). (Rockauto < $20 for motorcraft(oem))
   
2. Rear right cylinder\piston as it is just as old. (Rockauto < $20 for motorcraft(oem)) Should also always replace in pairs.
   
3. Bleeder screws for both, as they are most likely seized from corrosion. (Rockauto < $1)
   
4. The hard brake line(s) across the rear axle, with as rusty as it looks, trying to remove it from the cylinders will most likely damage it. (See SSTubes link below)
   
5. The flex hose from the hard line on the axle to the hard line on the frame, as the line(s) on the axle, will most likely be seized as well. (Rockauto $20 for motorcraft(oem))
   
   Check out SSTubes for pre-made lines. It makes it so much easier. I have had to replace a few lines on various vehicles for people in the past few years, and it is so nice to just get them and pop them in. Get stainless hardware as well, not just steel. https://www.sstubes.com/collections/brake-lines/Ford-Ranger-1996
   
   Depending on the condition of the rest of the system, you may need to replace other items as well. The line along the frame may be just a bad as the one on the rear axle. I'm not sure of anything on the front, as I can't see it in any images. The biggest thing would be seized up bleeders on the front, requiring you to replace the front calipers (replace in pairs as well). If the calipers would need to be replaced, I would replace the flex lines as well at that point.
   
   If you have ABS, getting the air out of the line from the ABS unit is easy if you don't have a scan tool that can actuate the ABS module. Once all the hardware is replaced, and the fluid in the system replaced, and the system bled. Take the truck to an area where you can get the ABS to engage (dirt road works nice). Do a series (5-6) of short medium speed (40 MPH) runs with quick stops to engage the ABS. Return home and re-bleed the system.
   
   This would be a good time to do a check of all the pads, rotors, drums, and shoes; as you will most likely will be in there.
   
   If you are going to go in as far as I have listed, save yourself the hassle and just get a gallon of brake fluid, that way you won't have to worry about not having enough.
   
   Additionally, look into possibly getting this ( https://smile.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Pressure-Clutch-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=motive+products+power+bleeder+ford&qid=1570622701&sr=8-1 ) it makes bleeding the system a one man job and is so nice. Once you have the base unit, you can also just buy adapters as needed to fit various other vehicles as needed.
   
   Don't feel bad or overwhelmed about all the work and parts that my be needed. It's not as bad as it seems. If you need help, just let me know, and I will do the best I can to walk you though anything. I have an 02 ranger as well, so a lot of stuff will be similar. I just may need some pics to see what you are seeing. I can also send you pics of locations and items on mine if needed. If you are close by, I can always help. With all the parts, this could be done in a weekend. Also, my 02 will be needing this done in the next year or two as well, as the rear axle line on mine is worse than what I can see in yours.
   
   One note about all the items and prices listed, I just made an assumption on the engine size of 3.0L V6, you will want to verify your exact vehicle specs. Prices shouldn't be too far off. I can help with finding that as well if needed.
   
   Best of luck on the project.

Not sure why your speed bleeders didn't work but I've used this device with great success. I bled the entire system on my car in 20 minutes by myself

Generic Pneumatic Brake Fluid Bleeder w/4 Master Cylinder Metal Adapters 90-120 PSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016M68PUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qMyyCbZPN03VN

You do need an air compressor though, even a small one would work just fine

I can't see your second link for some reason but it sounds like your brake fluid pressure sensor needs replaced. Cheap fix.

$16 at Amazon

Use an in-line canister, like from a brake-bleeder kit, so that if water does get into the tube it’ll get caught in the canister and not get into the pump itself and ruin it.

Amazon

Great pump with pressure gauge and comes with the in-line canister a some fittings. You’ll just need to purchase a make end that fits your tubes.

This thing has been pretty awesome for me. It uses a one way valve, just pop it on the bleeder screw, fill the master cylinder and start pumping the pedal. Close the bleeder, pull it off and move to the next wheel.

Get a brake bleeder kit for sure. RockAuto is a good place to get decent parts for a fair price.

HFS (R) 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4oANzb3FA4NKS

Two man would be optimal and the cheapest method. I use the vacuum or pressure methods for flushing purposes. I assume you don’t have an air compressor so I own and use these tools for a one man no compressor purpose.

Vacuum

MV8000 Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_soVQDbZJ9N047

Refill tank (used with two man or vacuum method)

Mityvac MVA6832 Clamp-On Auto-Refill Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K1KPK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PvVQDbX1TZZBW

Pressure (with the correct adapter for the vehicle)

Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9rVQDb9QG3FXY

Any have experience with these types of hand pump vacuum tester / brake bleeders? I needed one for a CEL so I bought it.

the vacuum pumpdoes work you just have to get it stable enough so it does take longer to put a vac on it. The hand pump is more about the work you have to put into getting a good vac. Alot of pumping. If it was a 3 gallon chamber it'd be ridiculous. I got the 1.5 quart chamber just for space saving reasons initially. It takes a bit of pumping, but I can get it to a vac and keep it at 27-28 depending on how im feelin'. It works great as small portable gear.

Keeps me from having to get my car in the air, deal with the plug, deal with spills, etc.

http://amzn.com/B000GU0MMU

Changing the oil is like a well-choreographed ballet now... you put this thing down the dipstick hole, give it a few pumps and then let it siphon out all the oil while you're spinning off the oil filter and getting everything else ready. When it starts to slurp, you know you're ready to pull it and put in fresh oil. Pour the spent oil into the new oil containers and drive to AutoZone. Easy peasy. :P

https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Tuner/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494866278&sr=1-4&keywords=brake+bleeder+kit

literally typed in brake bleeder kit :-p, not sure what you were expecting

Ok, if you had a broken line you would have noticed before now. i would think. Lets assume something went wrong.

I have bled a few 944s and the guy who works next to me has bled thousands of 944s. They are not special. They are not magic. It is a basic brake system.

Is there still fluid in the reservoir? Does your brake pedal go to the floor or is there resistance?

Basically we have to assume you got air in the system. If I had your car in my bay I would fill the resevior and use (this thing)[http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-0100-European-Bleeder/dp/B0002KM5L0] to pressurize the system. (that thing is the exact fit for your car.)

Then I would open a bleeder at any caliper and watch the old stuff flow out until it was clear.

But you don't have that tool. So let gravity do it for you. Open the bleeder and let gravity pull the new fluid through the system. Maybe remove the bleeder completely to eliminate any possible clogging there.

It should start to come out soon.

Check your brake pad sizes. if they are drastically uneven your caliper could be seized.

Another trick I use regularly is the apply vacuum to the reservoir. If you can find a way to hook up your vac pump to the reservoir you can do this. I use an old bumpstop but a large super bouncy ball would work well. Just drill a whole through the center and hook it up to your pump with some hose.

Now fill the reservoir with fluid. Leave a little space on top for air so we don't suck up the fluid (not a huge problem). Now apply vacuum, put your hand on the reservoir and try to feel bubbles. The idea here is to 'boil' the fluid by putting it in a vacuum like science class in 8th grade. It wont pull air all the way out of a caliper but it will bleed your master cylinder. I don't bench bleed masters anymore since I discovered this trick.

Right now you are in what I call "The Shit". When you are at your wits end and nothing is working and you've at least contemplated throwing a tool. When in "The Shit" I just keep trying shit. You will be surprised what you can do. Remember there is no magic. Fluid goes in and fluid comes out.

Good luck!

Here you go.

bottle top filters.
https://www.amazon.com/Whatman-10443421-Cellulose-
Regenerated-Bottletop/dp/B007GE9N3I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487620307&sr=8-9&keywords=whatman+filter
glass media bottle i use
https://www.amazon.com/PYREX-250mL-Round-Storage-Bottles/dp/B004XR5TIO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487620362&sr=8-7&keywords=glass+media+bottles
break bleeder
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487620409&sr=1-7&keywords=brake+bleeder

That works. I bought the same thing but cheaper on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Tuner/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468105161&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+bleeder+kit

Good luck

The whole recall kit is available on Amazon. If the fuse blows, you're supposed to replace that whole jumper harness rather than just put a new fuse in.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW6350-Brake-Repair-Kit/dp/B000IYLZDO

Can almost guarantee you have air bubbles all throughout the system. Get a mityvac hand bleeder and some fluid and do it again. Master first, then slave.

Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0GCHxbMQ8K6QB

Don't do like I did trying to bleed the slave on a Corrado once... Duct taped the bleed hose to the vac, and apparently the fluid is flammable. Turned the vacuum into a jet engine. :)

Did you replace the rubber brake lines that connect to the calipers? They could be swelling under pressure.

Did you do anything with the calipers? Check out the pistons? Replace the seals? A repair kit is super cheap.

As for bleeding to make sure there's no air, I do recommend using a power bleeder, just because it's easier. I fabbed up my own power brake bleeder so I could do it myself, but you can buy one pretty inexpensively. Definitely made brake fluid changes and bleeding easy. No more shouting to a friend to stomp the pedal, etc. Here's the Motive one on amazon: :https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-European-Bleeder-Adapter/dp/B0002KM5L0

If you want a shorter pedal distance, you may need to swap in a larger bore master cylinder like the M3 or E32 master cylinder with a 25mm bore (versus the 21mm & 19mm bore that came from the factory).

Socket set - look at Sears sales around father's day (now!) and get them yourself or pick a set for your registry. They're a great value and I love the ones with cases (i got this one for around $150 near christmas)

Mower: look for a Honda commercial model on craigslist. The tanks of the mower world. Always start on first pull; uses a car spark plug. A great workout while you mow - jog behind it!

These aren't wedding registry items ... I know ... but I'd push people to get you gift cards so you can browse sales. Markups on tools can be bad compared to what things can be 'had' for.

Do you change your own oil? Check this out (I've had mine 5 years and LOVE it) https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Turf-Oil-Extractor-6-Liter-OIL01/dp/B000GU0MMU I use mine on my car and wife's car for oil, diff, trans fluid and also my lawn mower. If you have a truck that takes more than that capacity move up in size to a Mityvac

Worn pads wont cause that bc the reservoir fills in the volume taken up by the worn pads...firm lever should always be there regardless of pad life remaining. Your priority should be to bleed the brakes (lots of tutorials out there...u can even buy one man bleed kits online) and if it's still not firming up you might need a new brake master cylinder. Thats noticably more work but not impossible, i did it and im not particulalry experienced with it.
Brake bleed kit example: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Vacuum-Brake-Automotive-Canning/dp/B00KBA27KA

You rock man, you and bloodynightmare...good guys. this is the same idea, right: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KB9D3UO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00265M9SS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421538722&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41RZUDpXidL&ref=plSrch
Along with the filter you posted would be fine? This looks a lot easier for making larger batches.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00942X5EI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep. This is the kit I ordered.

You need one of these to do it by yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-19200-Brake-Bleeding-Kit/dp/B0009OMY9M

Most auto parts stores should have them in stock.

Another option is to buy an oil extractor. You can just snake the tube down the dipstick and pull most of the oil out of the pan. Just measure how much comes out and add the same amount. I do this now instead of crawling under my car to drain the ATF. It works well. I have something similar to this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Turf-Oil-Extractor-6-Liter-OIL01/dp/B000GU0MMU/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3HZYRYIL59QZ9&keywords=oil+change+vacuum+pump&qid=1563480133&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+change+vacu%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-13

I picked up the same Mighty Vac pump at O'Reilly Auto for around $40.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319779744&sr=8-2

It takes like 5 minutes with my mityvac. You can do it by pumping the brakes.
A mityvac is only $30.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL11017-Bleeder-Bottle/dp/B00F9XHVKA/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=motorcycle+brake+bleeder&qid=1556153085&s=gateway&sr=8-9

This has a check valve so just squeeze away and it won't let air in the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300-PneumatiVac-Air-Operated-Evacuator/dp/B000JFN9WW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=PVIV2W4UVKIV&keywords=fluid+extractor&qid=1556152126&s=gateway&sprefix=fluid+&sr=8-7 they also make hand operated versions. If you just want a simple siphon try a shaker hose.

If you got yourself a RossTech cable and an Mighty Vac oil extractor (on top of your “well equipped” tool set) you’d be pretty well set for maintenance.

Having said that, Audi treats loyal clients pretty well in the event of major events outside of warranty, IF THEY ARE LOYAL. Basically, “you spend money with us, we’ll spend money on you.”

Edit: and Audi =/= an Audi Dealership.

Edit 2: that didn’t come out right either. The dealership is licensed to sell the brand but they still have to get the brands approval for certain things, engine failure at 120,000 miles. It’s not always up to the dealership.

I just picked up a filtration set yesterday. Haven't put a run through but I figured you might like to have the links together. Funnel, Pump, filters.

I use a brake line pump.

Known as brake pressure tester

KKmoon Brake Pressure Tester ABS Braking System Testing Gauge Kit Garage Test Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DLW1O26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Kpa0BbQ1NQS6Q

Or ebay.

Fill a syringe with brake fluid, then use a tube and nipple (the black things in the pic, don't know the name) on the end. Open up the reservoir and get out as much fluid as possible, then use the syringe to slowly push fluid into the system, you should see lots of bubbles in the reservoir as the air escapes.

I had a hell of a time getting my DRZ's front system to bleed after accidentally introducing air, even took it to a shop and they couldn't get the brake feel back. Tried all sorts of wacky things including elevating the reservoir, putting a zip tie on the lever, etc. Did it this way and it worked perfectly the first time.

internet diagnosis would be vac leak,mixed up vac lines or a failure in the EGR system from the symptoms you describe.

if i was working on the car, i would start by puling a vac on all lines with the motor off. also pull a vac on the EGR diaphragm (it should hold & not leak down)

i would use tools like this.

HFS (R 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit New HFS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_xSzBCbE263HGF

GearWrench GearWrench 145 Hose Pinch Off Pliers GearWrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3NACS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_JRzBCbHPR4VKX

The Motive power bleeder works pretty good. They are all the same except the cap that fills your reservoir. I think this is the one for the 3rd gen Mazda3. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-0118-Mustang-Bleeder/dp/B00942X5EI/ref=sr_1_8_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537885049&sr=8-8-spons&keywords=motive+power+bleeder+0118&psc=1&smid=A19NVE4G6SOT2C

​

My boss bought a Schwaben power bleeder and I have to say, some of its features are nicer.

​

Yeah but then you need to ghetto rig it with a converter and still get a hose.

https://www.amazon.com/HTOMT-Automotive-Protected-Adapters-Bleeding/dp/B07471TKRF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542317725&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=brake+bleeder+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41XE7xq9tUL&ref=plSrch

This comes with the hoses. No worries about ghetto rigged power and you can set any psi you want unlike that pump where you have no idea what psi you’re using. Aaaand it doesn’t break.

Unless you’re using a $200 pump I’m team brake bleeder all day.

Amazon has this cheap-ass bleeder kit for about $40. Paid for itself the day I took it out of the box. Pick up the fluid your bike calls for and spend a few minutes on brake maintenance. Your brakes will thank you with better feel and less sponginess.

I had a mighty vac. It was a handheld bleeder that drew a vacuum at the wheel. It was no good and I through it in the trash. Now I've got a Motive bleeder. It pushes from the master cylinder and I really like it. My only complaint about it is that it pushes a pretty small stream, so it takes a while.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-107-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2

Buy this hand pump: HFS (R 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder &... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yea. I use this and just duct tape one end to an empty water bottle . Gets the job done in like 30min

Thanks for the tip on Harbor Freight. I googled for it and actually found this pump on Amazon, which looks about right. It's definitely a better price (and probably better construction) than the ones marketed as sex toys.

The thing about the bulb and valve is, where would the air come from to refill the bulb after the first pump? It doesn't seem like the toy is designed to refill with air until you hit the release knob, which means you can't build up the suction. Unless I'm still missing something, or my particular unit is defective.

This is what I use. By submerging the other end of the system in brake fluid you'll be pushing air out and pulling DOT 3 back in. The only problem with that system is you'll be aerating the fluid. Air is the enemy of hydraulic fluid, that's why they always tell you to use stuff out of a sealed container. If I ever had to do a high performance car I'd get help.

Go get one of these and do it in less than 15 minutes without even climbing under the car or getting your hands dirty.

I used to always go the mighty vac route. It works but I now use the Motion Pro check valve for my changes.

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0143-Hydraulic-Bleeder/dp/B000MXW2EM

They make it easier to do this without help. While the Mighty Vac lets you pull the fluid out fine, unless you keep a close eye on the reservoir or have a helper keep it topped off, you can suck it dry and you have to start over. With the check valve you just pump out the fluid. They also make one with an integrated socket. They are nice when they fit. On the Honda ST1300, it doesn't fit on all the bleed points because of where they are positioned on the caliper and interference from other hard parts like the fork. So the original like what is linked above is more universal and works better.

Also be sure to change your pads before flushing the fluid. If you do it in reverse (fluid then pads) when you push the caliper pistons back you can overflow your reservoir making a big mess. So change the pads first, seat them by pumping the brakes, then do the fluid topping off to the proper level.

I don't think this is the case with a Vulcan but some bikes have multiple bleed points and they have to be done in a certain order. This is the case on the ST1300. Off the top of my head there are something like 7 bleed points and if you screw up the order you will have air in the lines. This is because some bikes like that have linked brakes where it actuates front and rear brake no matter if you use the brake lever on the bars or the foot brake. ABS systems can also cause more complexities in the process but not in every case. The process on the ST1300 is the same if it is ABS or not.

This is all I bought for my BRZ, no adapters needed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DZE2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RfDYzbTRH117C

I'm on mobile so let me know if the link doesn't work for any reason

Mason jar plus brake line vacuum hand pump from amazon, attach the bleed line to a hole in the mason lid with some hot glue.

Gets up to 25 inches pressure easily, (use as small a mason jar as you can to eliminate wasted space) you can put the jar in a hot water bath if you wish, and you can place a smaller container (glass dab jar, parchment paper) filled with extract in the jar to avoid getting the vacuum jar dirty.

If you're not using a closed loop, you might consider doing a cryo-soak in a jar instead of an open blast, as it's a bit safer during the time you're interacting with the setup (still not safe as it involves boiling/evaporating off flammable gas), or you might consider abandoning solvents and purging entirely and switch to a rosin process. Dry ice sift is quick and easy to make with just a bubble bag (the smallest of a set meant for bubble hash will do) and some dry ice; 3-5 quick shakes and you will have the purest snow white keif, 5 more and you will have pale yellow, and this keif can be pressed into rosin that is higher quality and terpier than most BHO or CO2 extracts. In the amounts you're processing, its very easy to do (easier than BHO), costs less, is safer, and yields as high if not higher quality extract.