The mechanic in me likes the idea, but I do wonder if it will get knocked off by a rock, a log, or other debris on the road.

Years ago I fell in love with the Mityvac Extractors.

No lifting the car, no crawling around; just jam the tube down the dipstick tube, hit a button, and Viola! Oil is sucked out.

For those who say there will be oil left, there's not. If it's an ounce out of a gallon, I'd be surprised.

Do this in the garage, the driveway - wherever. Better yet, have your teenager do it Just make sure he tightens the cap after adding oil!

It's embarrassing as hell to pull up to the valet and your car is smoking like a Kuwaiti oil rig.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the kit I use every single day. Has every single adapter and both forward and reverse thread inserts. $20 to never have this problem again. Sold my Bluepoint kit for this because this one was better.

Flaring tool

edit: The actual one, I think

STOP! WHOA! You have me very concerned.

The correct tool. Always. If you can't go buy a very nice socket wrench set for $25, you shouldn't be messing with your car.

He's also going to need a good jack, and some jack stands, and know how to properly use and place them.

If you're replacing brake pads, you have to do both sides.

You have to know if your rotors need to be replaced. I bet they do. If you're asking 'do I need the right tool?', chances are that you're down to bare metal and your rotors are pitted and destroyed. You must replace them.

I'm assuming that he's replacing disc brakes. He's going to want to buy this also:

www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K/

You can get one for the same price or less anywhere that sells auto parts. Another one of those stupid $5 tools that makes a world of difference.

He's also going to need a rubber mallet most likely, and a set of good wrenches. You're going to want to bleed the brakes after the new pads are installed. I'd say that's almost always a 3/8" wrench, but I mostly work on classics.

I'm worried. A man that doesn't understand that he needs the right tools for the job is probably not the man for the job - and brakes are the most important part of a car.

It's not the kind of thing to say 'Hey, I'll take a whack at it!' without knowing what you're doing. You can't just watch a 5 minute Youtube video and take a stab at it. Think very seriously about that.

Brakes that fail could be fatal. Or, you could get lucky and it's just catastrophic damage to your car and nobody got hurt.

If he wants to learn to do it himself, that's great, but don't do it the first time without someone that really knows what they're doing at least supervising.

They make some tools that can speed up the process such as this. If you do brakes all the time it might be worth it, but meh.

Basically those 2 knobs on the end slot into holes, then using the handle you turn the object, in this case the calipers piston.

Using that for brake calipers usually won’t work as you also need to apply pressure against the piston at the same time.

The proper tool for calipers looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0122Q83T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7N1PCbZVG39WR

Although maybe your car would work fine with a spanner wrench

$50

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-0100-European-Bleeder/dp/B0002KM5L0

Sometimes you need to buy a vehicle-specific adapter. I had to do that for my Nissan.

Hardest part is bleeding the brakes. If you have a friend to pump the pedal or a pressure bleeder then it is not hard.

Also make sure to have actual flare wrenches. A standard claw wrench will strip the brake line flare nuts.

OEM lines are fine, that is what I would buy, and they're truly DOT certified. They lasted 30+ years.

Tool list? Just a normal impact socket set should do you fine.

You'll want a kit like this for the rear though.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000IB40L6/

Obvious one but check to see if all your connections are tight. I was going crazy trying to bleed my dirt bike before I realized there was a fitting in the middle of my aftermarket brake line that needs to be tightened down (it was there so you could loosen and spin the fitting at the caliper).

Also I have a vaccuum bleeder and one of these and I like this little $10 check valve better honestly.

https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0143-Hydraulic-Bleeder/dp/B000MXW2EM/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000MXW2EM&pd_rd_r=V1MX08VMPN3Q4WQKGGNQ&pd_rd_w=bNFkI&pd_rd_wg=oQk4a&psc=1&refRID=V1MX08VMPN3Q4WQKGGNQ&tag=pda0d8-20&camp=1789&creative=9325

8MILELAKE Brake Caliper Wind Back Tool 22pc professional disc brake caliper tool set
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0122Q83T4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l9wKBb9WM723H

It's a brake job, nothing special about it. If you've got the monoblock calipers (which on a C7 I believe that was the only option) then you'll need a special spreader to recess the caliper pistons (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-Quick-Quad-Spreader/dp/B005GLQCKA?th=1&psc=1) and other than that it's out with the old in with the new.

If you have help, you don't need special tools to bleed the brakes. Just a wrench, something to catch the fluid in, and a foot for the pedal. Though not required, it helps to put some hose on the bleeder screw to direct the fluid to the catch container so it doesn't make a mess.

If you have to do it by yourself you're going to want to buy some kind of vacuum bleeding tool. [Something like this would do it.] (http://www.amazon.com/HFS-Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Tuner/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462208343&sr=1-6&keywords=mityvac)

I don't know why anyone wouldn't just use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS

You'll need a caliper tool to screw in the piston on the rear brakes. You can usually borrow them from Autozone for free. If you want to just buy it: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20733A-Brake-Caliper-12-Piece/dp/B000IB40L6/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000IB40L6&pd_rd_r=V24G16P2HPBHWZCTVZ4V&pd_rd_w=3m2Xk&pd_rd_wg=MmC8O&psc=1&refRID=V24G16P2HPBHWZCTVZ4V&dpID=51pVErlpuYL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

I'm 90% sure you'll also need this stupid expensive (for what it is) triple square socket: https://www.amazon.com/14mm-Triple-Square-Socket-Audi/dp/B008K7STNK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G3A2RDZ6C1YW94PKWB7H&dpID=41jZ1EY7r4L&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

Upvotes to everyone who said doing it yourself is the way to go.

Changing brakes is the easiest thing I have learned, that I was always intimidated and thought I couldn't do on my own. It's literally a joke how much you can get charged for something so simple.

Suggestion: I bought a brake changing kit off Amazon for like $30 [Linky] (http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Wind-Back-Tool/dp/B000IB40L6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411649588&sr=8-3&keywords=brake+changing+kit). And the pads off of Rockauto.com for really cheap. Then watch this video, or one like it - there's plenty, and double-check your work...

You'll have the depressors for future use, and as long as you don't have rotor issues, you can continue to change your brakes with relative ease. I also, surprisingly, feel more confident with doing my own brakes, rather than trusting a stranger. I KNOW it's done right.

re Mike's suggestion, I bought this kit and it helped immensely https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MXW2EM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Brewed using BST's excellent guide, of course. You can see the printout in the picture.

Another shot of the unit with filtration taking place

By using this super simple setup I was able to filter 100ml of test in roughly about 5 minutes. I actually broke the first filter and had to use a second unit to re-filter, so be careful when applying vacuum. Three or four pumps gets it dripping just fine, then just walk away. I say again, as soon as it starts dripping, stop pumping. It will go fast enough. Seriously. No more than 5hg of vacuum. 10hg of vacuum pulled right through a filter. I lost a little more product than I would have like in the process between breaking one filter and having to re-filter, but c'est la vie.

These are also overfilled to about 11ml per vial or so. I'd have got 9.5 vials I think if I hadn't popped a filter unit and overfilled.


$30 hand pump http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KB9D3UO?psc=1

$10 filter unit http://www.medical-and-lab-supplies.com/filtration/disposable-vacuum-filters/complete-filter-units/nalgene-mf75-complete-sterile-filter-units-150ml-55mm-dia-filter.html

Motive Bleeder w/ Adapter

This is the one I got, and it is perfect.

EDIT: And it really makes the job simple. While others don't, I found it easier to just remove the cowl for extra room, otherwise it kept kinking the line.

Do you mean a set like this?

Is a caliper set like this decent? Spending 4x on the jack quickly pushed me towards the upper end of my budget. If it's not an okay replacement I can just spring an extra $20 for the Harbor Freight one.

1. use brake cleaner not Carb spray. Carb spray leaves a film. Brake cleaner does not and is sometimes less destructive on rubber brake parts
   
   
2. yes its nessasary to clean new rotors
   
   
3. it removes not only the oily protective film from the friction surface but removes the fine metal.dust that may still be on them from manufacturing process. These both will contaminate pads, can cause noises and effect brake effectiveness.
   
   I like to spray them liberally flooding the surface then wipe with a disposable rag. Just as I'd prepping for paint.
   
   
4. brake grease nothing else. Keep it to a minimal film on the pad anchor points that slide on the bracket, the caliper sliders, and optionally the contact spots of the backside of the pads if they so not have rubber like shims. (Points between the piston or caliper itself and metal brake pad backing)
   
   number the next one)
   
   While changing the fluid Is a good idea. I would suggest not getting into it as a first brake job kind of thing. You will add the chances.of having a frozen or broken bleeder. Also you could get air into the system. While these are not end of the world events it may be a can of worms you don't want to get into. Plus its not really something that is much easier to do while your changing the pads. It could be done later with out a ton more effort.
   
   The c clamp would be used to push the piston back in the bore to.make room for the new thicker pads and rotors. Disk brakes unlike drum brakes don't have return springs they just squeeze and then don't squeeze. They actually drag ever so slightly most the time. You can sometimes hear them while wheels are off ground and you spin the wheel.
   
   A safer way is to use a tool made for pushing the piston back in. You don't need a fancy one that will turn in the piston unless your working on rears that have the parking brake integrated with the caliper.
   Lisle 24400 Disc Brake Pad Spreader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SQU9K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LLiozbAWG3WFJ
   
   Hope this helps. sorry can't watch video at the moment.
   
   
   

HFS (R) 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4oANzb3FA4NKS

Use an in-line canister, like from a brake-bleeder kit, so that if water does get into the tube it’ll get caught in the canister and not get into the pump itself and ruin it.

Amazon

Great pump with pressure gauge and comes with the in-line canister a some fittings. You’ll just need to purchase a make end that fits your tubes.

I bought a set like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-20733A-Brake-Caliper-12-Piece/dp/B000IB40L6
It worked like a charm! :) I celebrated my new working brakes with a flat tire...

This thing has been pretty awesome for me. It uses a one way valve, just pop it on the bleeder screw, fill the master cylinder and start pumping the pedal. Close the bleeder, pull it off and move to the next wheel.

I got tired of the crappy double flare tool kits you can get from the auto parts store and ponied up for this.

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-51535-Double-Flaring/dp/B06XPRVCPV/ref=zg_bs_15707271_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E949J5M4Q7Q47H0VD6AK

I won't ever use those split clamp style kits again if I can help it. The above tool makes it foolproof, and generally doesn't chew up the line as much.

For the DIY brake fluid flush job, I've found these two products to be super useful:

• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CP79C7S/ - acts as a big reservoir for the brake fluid
  
• https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F9XHVKA/ - catch bottle with one way valve to prevent air bubbles
  
  I can do a full flush so easily now which happens a few times a year as I track my car.

Yeah I had problems with tiny bubbles too. You can wrap some Teflon tape or something similar around the screws if you want but I didn't and those bubbles caused no problems, because they were occuring after/at the tip on the bleed screw

Since you don't have an air compressor they make one with a hand pump too


HFS (R 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p4yyCb8D8D46S

Looks like the internal cylinder failed. Looking at the picture though, you are most likely going to be replacing a few more things than just the cylinder. From what I can see in the image, you will most likely need to replace the following:

1. Rear left cylinder\piston (as it failed). (Rockauto < $20 for motorcraft(oem))
   
2. Rear right cylinder\piston as it is just as old. (Rockauto < $20 for motorcraft(oem)) Should also always replace in pairs.
   
3. Bleeder screws for both, as they are most likely seized from corrosion. (Rockauto < $1)
   
4. The hard brake line(s) across the rear axle, with as rusty as it looks, trying to remove it from the cylinders will most likely damage it. (See SSTubes link below)
   
5. The flex hose from the hard line on the axle to the hard line on the frame, as the line(s) on the axle, will most likely be seized as well. (Rockauto $20 for motorcraft(oem))
   
   Check out SSTubes for pre-made lines. It makes it so much easier. I have had to replace a few lines on various vehicles for people in the past few years, and it is so nice to just get them and pop them in. Get stainless hardware as well, not just steel. https://www.sstubes.com/collections/brake-lines/Ford-Ranger-1996
   
   Depending on the condition of the rest of the system, you may need to replace other items as well. The line along the frame may be just a bad as the one on the rear axle. I'm not sure of anything on the front, as I can't see it in any images. The biggest thing would be seized up bleeders on the front, requiring you to replace the front calipers (replace in pairs as well). If the calipers would need to be replaced, I would replace the flex lines as well at that point.
   
   If you have ABS, getting the air out of the line from the ABS unit is easy if you don't have a scan tool that can actuate the ABS module. Once all the hardware is replaced, and the fluid in the system replaced, and the system bled. Take the truck to an area where you can get the ABS to engage (dirt road works nice). Do a series (5-6) of short medium speed (40 MPH) runs with quick stops to engage the ABS. Return home and re-bleed the system.
   
   This would be a good time to do a check of all the pads, rotors, drums, and shoes; as you will most likely will be in there.
   
   If you are going to go in as far as I have listed, save yourself the hassle and just get a gallon of brake fluid, that way you won't have to worry about not having enough.
   
   Additionally, look into possibly getting this ( https://smile.amazon.com/Motive-Products-Pressure-Clutch-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=motive+products+power+bleeder+ford&qid=1570622701&sr=8-1 ) it makes bleeding the system a one man job and is so nice. Once you have the base unit, you can also just buy adapters as needed to fit various other vehicles as needed.
   
   Don't feel bad or overwhelmed about all the work and parts that my be needed. It's not as bad as it seems. If you need help, just let me know, and I will do the best I can to walk you though anything. I have an 02 ranger as well, so a lot of stuff will be similar. I just may need some pics to see what you are seeing. I can also send you pics of locations and items on mine if needed. If you are close by, I can always help. With all the parts, this could be done in a weekend. Also, my 02 will be needing this done in the next year or two as well, as the rear axle line on mine is worse than what I can see in yours.
   
   One note about all the items and prices listed, I just made an assumption on the engine size of 3.0L V6, you will want to verify your exact vehicle specs. Prices shouldn't be too far off. I can help with finding that as well if needed.
   
   Best of luck on the project.

I'm in Canada, so you might find a cheaper version of this measuring tool, but this is a fairly easy way to check the depth of pads.

STEELMAN 97844 Brake Gauge https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003QHSHMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SvW4Cb3ZG4V9D

I'm not trying to defend a shop that's dishonest, but sometimes the inside and outside pads can wear a different rates.

Two man would be optimal and the cheapest method. I use the vacuum or pressure methods for flushing purposes. I assume you don’t have an air compressor so I own and use these tools for a one man no compressor purpose.

Vacuum

MV8000 Automotive Tune-up and Brake Bleeding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_soVQDbZJ9N047

Refill tank (used with two man or vacuum method)

Mityvac MVA6832 Clamp-On Auto-Refill Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K1KPK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PvVQDbX1TZZBW

Pressure (with the correct adapter for the vehicle)

Motive Products, European Power Brake Bleeder, 0100, Hand Pump Pressure Tank with Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KM5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9rVQDb9QG3FXY

Any have experience with these types of hand pump vacuum tester / brake bleeders? I needed one for a CEL so I bought it.

Keeps me from having to get my car in the air, deal with the plug, deal with spills, etc.

http://amzn.com/B000GU0MMU

Changing the oil is like a well-choreographed ballet now... you put this thing down the dipstick hole, give it a few pumps and then let it siphon out all the oil while you're spinning off the oil filter and getting everything else ready. When it starts to slurp, you know you're ready to pull it and put in fresh oil. Pour the spent oil into the new oil containers and drive to AutoZone. Easy peasy. :P

Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GLQCKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YpyuDb84A6F6N

Lisle has a few options line this that work very very well.

Here you go.

That works. I bought the same thing but cheaper on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Tuner/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468105161&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+bleeder+kit

Good luck

Can almost guarantee you have air bubbles all throughout the system. Get a mityvac hand bleeder and some fluid and do it again. Master first, then slave.

Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_0GCHxbMQ8K6QB

Don't do like I did trying to bleed the slave on a Corrado once... Duct taped the bleed hose to the vac, and apparently the fluid is flammable. Turned the vacuum into a jet engine. :)

www.amazon.com/dp/B0122Q83T4

$20 version

Socket set - look at Sears sales around father's day (now!) and get them yourself or pick a set for your registry. They're a great value and I love the ones with cases (i got this one for around $150 near christmas)

Mower: look for a Honda commercial model on craigslist. The tanks of the mower world. Always start on first pull; uses a car spark plug. A great workout while you mow - jog behind it!

These aren't wedding registry items ... I know ... but I'd push people to get you gift cards so you can browse sales. Markups on tools can be bad compared to what things can be 'had' for.

Do you change your own oil? Check this out (I've had mine 5 years and LOVE it) https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Turf-Oil-Extractor-6-Liter-OIL01/dp/B000GU0MMU I use mine on my car and wife's car for oil, diff, trans fluid and also my lawn mower. If you have a truck that takes more than that capacity move up in size to a Mityvac

Ok, if you had a broken line you would have noticed before now. i would think. Lets assume something went wrong.

I have bled a few 944s and the guy who works next to me has bled thousands of 944s. They are not special. They are not magic. It is a basic brake system.

Is there still fluid in the reservoir? Does your brake pedal go to the floor or is there resistance?

Basically we have to assume you got air in the system. If I had your car in my bay I would fill the resevior and use (this thing)[http://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-0100-European-Bleeder/dp/B0002KM5L0] to pressurize the system. (that thing is the exact fit for your car.)

Then I would open a bleeder at any caliper and watch the old stuff flow out until it was clear.

But you don't have that tool. So let gravity do it for you. Open the bleeder and let gravity pull the new fluid through the system. Maybe remove the bleeder completely to eliminate any possible clogging there.

It should start to come out soon.

Check your brake pad sizes. if they are drastically uneven your caliper could be seized.

Another trick I use regularly is the apply vacuum to the reservoir. If you can find a way to hook up your vac pump to the reservoir you can do this. I use an old bumpstop but a large super bouncy ball would work well. Just drill a whole through the center and hook it up to your pump with some hose.

Now fill the reservoir with fluid. Leave a little space on top for air so we don't suck up the fluid (not a huge problem). Now apply vacuum, put your hand on the reservoir and try to feel bubbles. The idea here is to 'boil' the fluid by putting it in a vacuum like science class in 8th grade. It wont pull air all the way out of a caliper but it will bleed your master cylinder. I don't bench bleed masters anymore since I discovered this trick.

Right now you are in what I call "The Shit". When you are at your wits end and nothing is working and you've at least contemplated throwing a tool. When in "The Shit" I just keep trying shit. You will be surprised what you can do. Remember there is no magic. Fluid goes in and fluid comes out.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/HFS-Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Tuner/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494866278&sr=1-4&keywords=brake+bleeder+kit

literally typed in brake bleeder kit :-p, not sure what you were expecting

Did you replace the rubber brake lines that connect to the calipers? They could be swelling under pressure.

Did you do anything with the calipers? Check out the pistons? Replace the seals? A repair kit is super cheap.

As for bleeding to make sure there's no air, I do recommend using a power bleeder, just because it's easier. I fabbed up my own power brake bleeder so I could do it myself, but you can buy one pretty inexpensively. Definitely made brake fluid changes and bleeding easy. No more shouting to a friend to stomp the pedal, etc. Here's the Motive one on amazon: :https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-European-Bleeder-Adapter/dp/B0002KM5L0

If you want a shorter pedal distance, you may need to swap in a larger bore master cylinder like the M3 or E32 master cylinder with a 25mm bore (versus the 21mm & 19mm bore that came from the factory).

https://www.amazon.com/Roll-Copper-Nickel-Brake-Tubing/dp/B0786PHGQ6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRVCPV

Get those and some new brass (not steel) fittings, and give the shop the finger.

bottle top filters.
https://www.amazon.com/Whatman-10443421-Cellulose-
Regenerated-Bottletop/dp/B007GE9N3I/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1487620307&sr=8-9&keywords=whatman+filter
glass media bottle i use
https://www.amazon.com/PYREX-250mL-Round-Storage-Bottles/dp/B004XR5TIO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1487620362&sr=8-7&keywords=glass+media+bottles
break bleeder
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487620409&sr=1-7&keywords=brake+bleeder

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24300-Speedy-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0009OR8V6

I have NEVER looked back.

flare pipe tool

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-23332-Flaring-45-degree-flares/dp/B000X4K9KO

northern tool/harbor freight.

how large.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL11017-Bleeder-Bottle/dp/B00F9XHVKA/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?keywords=motorcycle+brake+bleeder&qid=1556153085&s=gateway&sr=8-9

This has a check valve so just squeeze away and it won't let air in the system.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7300-PneumatiVac-Air-Operated-Evacuator/dp/B000JFN9WW/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?crid=PVIV2W4UVKIV&keywords=fluid+extractor&qid=1556152126&s=gateway&sprefix=fluid+&sr=8-7 they also make hand operated versions. If you just want a simple siphon try a shaker hose.

this was painful to watch.


you see those two threaded holes in the rotor right by the studs?

those are there so you can remove the rotor without hammering the wheel bearings.

just pop two bolts in them & tighten, once threaded into the rotor far enough, they will bottom out on the hub face & push it right off. even the most stuck rotor will come off without much fuss.


also, please, buy a pad spreader.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GLQCKA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_As6OCbSGW2E32

I'd pick one of these up if you don't have one. There's a similar tool you can rent/borrow from Autozone or a large enough C clamp will also work.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K

You may want to pick up one or a few cans of brake cleaner. A piece of plastic tubing from the hardware store and an empty plastic bottle can be used for bleeding the brakes. Try not to spill brake fluid and/or clean it off well since it can remove paint.

If you got yourself a RossTech cable and an Mighty Vac oil extractor (on top of your “well equipped” tool set) you’d be pretty well set for maintenance.

Having said that, Audi treats loyal clients pretty well in the event of major events outside of warranty, IF THEY ARE LOYAL. Basically, “you spend money with us, we’ll spend money on you.”

Edit: and Audi =/= an Audi Dealership.

Edit 2: that didn’t come out right either. The dealership is licensed to sell the brand but they still have to get the brands approval for certain things, engine failure at 120,000 miles. It’s not always up to the dealership.

It takes like 5 minutes with my mityvac. You can do it by pumping the brakes.
A mityvac is only $30.

Another option is to buy an oil extractor. You can just snake the tube down the dipstick and pull most of the oil out of the pan. Just measure how much comes out and add the same amount. I do this now instead of crawling under my car to drain the ATF. It works well. I have something similar to this:

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https://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Turf-Oil-Extractor-6-Liter-OIL01/dp/B000GU0MMU/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3HZYRYIL59QZ9&keywords=oil+change+vacuum+pump&qid=1563480133&s=gateway&sprefix=oil+change+vacu%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-13

I just picked up a filtration set yesterday. Haven't put a run through but I figured you might like to have the links together. Funnel, Pump, filters.

I had a mighty vac. It was a handheld bleeder that drew a vacuum at the wheel. It was no good and I through it in the trash. Now I've got a Motive bleeder. It pushes from the master cylinder and I really like it. My only complaint about it is that it pushes a pretty small stream, so it takes a while.

https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-107-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DZE2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00942X5EI/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yep. This is the kit I ordered.

So this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00265M9SS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1421538722&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41RZUDpXidL&ref=plSrch
Along with the filter you posted would be fine? This looks a lot easier for making larger batches.

You rock man, you and bloodynightmare...good guys. this is the same idea, right: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KB9D3UO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heres a tool most people use to tell if their brakes are bad.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003QHSHMW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525648546&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=brake+pad+gauge

That is correct. You need to use the matching flair on the hose or copper tubing. It is easy to flair copper for propane. https://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-23332-Flaring-Tool/dp/B000X4K9KO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1484685852&sr=8-6&keywords=Flare+tool+for+copper+tube

Very easy to do a rotor and pad job yourself. Does require a couple of tools though. Even with the tools you'll be saving a bunch of money.

Changed the front brakes on my sister's civic for less than $150 dollars for the parts.

Besides sockets and a ratchet, you'll want to either get a C-clamp or a a brake caliper tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K

Also some brake lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24129-Silicone-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B01L1LV9F6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496554333&sr=1-11&keywords=brake+lube

And sometimes its tough to take the rotor screws off, for that you will need an impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O16UPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since your car is pretty new, you might not need the impact driver unless your rotors are rusty.

I used this rotor + pad set for the car : https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K1043-Evolution-Drilled/dp/B005FKMOWM

I've put powerstop rotors and pads on 4 cars now and they have worked quiet well. Some people were saying that the drilled rotors are prone to cracks, but that won't happen for a daily drive car on the street. Other rotor and pad options:

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD125669E-Premium-Coated-Brake/dp/B00HJJDSZO

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-17D914C-Professional-Ceramic-Front/dp/B000IYY7PW

Rears will be different than the ones I posted, so check and see what will fit. Amazon makes it pretty easy, just enter your car and it'll tell you what fits.

Since you have watched videos on the change, I don't think you need me to tell you how to do it.

The Motive power bleeder works pretty good. They are all the same except the cap that fills your reservoir. I think this is the one for the 3rd gen Mazda3. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-0118-Mustang-Bleeder/dp/B00942X5EI/ref=sr_1_8_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537885049&sr=8-8-spons&keywords=motive+power+bleeder+0118&psc=1&smid=A19NVE4G6SOT2C

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My boss bought a Schwaben power bleeder and I have to say, some of its features are nicer.

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Yeah but then you need to ghetto rig it with a converter and still get a hose.

https://www.amazon.com/HTOMT-Automotive-Protected-Adapters-Bleeding/dp/B07471TKRF/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542317725&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=brake+bleeder+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41XE7xq9tUL&ref=plSrch

This comes with the hoses. No worries about ghetto rigged power and you can set any psi you want unlike that pump where you have no idea what psi you’re using. Aaaand it doesn’t break.

Unless you’re using a $200 pump I’m team brake bleeder all day.

Amazon has this cheap-ass bleeder kit for about $40. Paid for itself the day I took it out of the box. Pick up the fluid your bike calls for and spend a few minutes on brake maintenance. Your brakes will thank you with better feel and less sponginess.

I use a brake line pump.

You might look up a youtube video of doing it on your car. This as an example. Usually all you need to do it is a jack (which your car comes with), a few socket wrenches, and maybe a brake pad spreader. It's usually quick and is one of the easiest jobs on a car as it doesn't even require going underneath, so you can do it yourself for a fraction of the price even if you have to buy some tools.

Buy this hand pump: HFS (R 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder &... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sure. If you hate yourself.

For $20, buy this and never use one of those again.

Thanks for the tip on Harbor Freight. I googled for it and actually found this pump on Amazon, which looks about right. It's definitely a better price (and probably better construction) than the ones marketed as sex toys.

The thing about the bulb and valve is, where would the air come from to refill the bulb after the first pump? It doesn't seem like the toy is designed to refill with air until you hit the release knob, which means you can't build up the suction. Unless I'm still missing something, or my particular unit is defective.

Same body style? Same trim? I had a GL. I find it hard to believe he'd need an actual vendor specific tool. I've never heard of such of thing & I know 2-3 mechanics that work on cars & see all kinds of stuff. THe only thing I can come across is this tool which isn't even a special VW tool, it's for many imports. It looks like it's for the caliper which isn't something you mess around with unless it fails or you're upgrading to a kit.

How old are the vehicles? What sorts of electrical issues has he had & at what miles/age? I'd love to hear more about them as I haven't had any. Unless you include traditional things like bulbs wearing out, mine has been fantastic. Unless there is something that fails in a spectacular fashion, or these people are putting aftermarket radios in (I've heard that alone causes major, major problems in other cars like the Cobalt we're making fun of in this thread).

At the time has/did he bother with Haynes/Chilton and or Bentley service manual(s)? I've heard people swear by those books for wiring diagrams. Short of that & using a VCDS Vag tool to scan the system, he shouldn't have had too many problems.

The only other thing that's a problem are stuff like, the windows falling in the doors, moisture due to the coil pack being cracked & the water pump needing to be replaced due to the impeller failing because it's plastic. But to be honest, once you start to get to know a mechanic or two, learn about the TSBs & are aware of the issues you start to expect, them, know about them & are able to confirm if the mechanic, shop you took it to, etc have taken care of you appropriately.

Yea. I use this and just duct tape one end to an empty water bottle . Gets the job done in like 30min

An updated if anyone is looking at this in the future.

KOE5960 was sold out but it is comprised of KOE5959 and KOE5961 which is what I bought and turned out to be cheaper for the single piston rear, dual piston front. I also bought a piston pushing toolkit which worked really well for the threaded rear and push front.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0122Q83T4/ref=pe_3034960_233709270_TE_item_image

The rotors were stuck pretty good but a bfh did the trick to loosen it. Just came back from bedding in the brakes and no more squeaking. The inner edge of the front rotors was rusting and causing the pad to wear unevenly on the bottom and squeak for the first few minutes of driving.

Go get one of these and do it in less than 15 minutes without even climbing under the car or getting your hands dirty.

I used to always go the mighty vac route. It works but I now use the Motion Pro check valve for my changes.

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0143-Hydraulic-Bleeder/dp/B000MXW2EM

They make it easier to do this without help. While the Mighty Vac lets you pull the fluid out fine, unless you keep a close eye on the reservoir or have a helper keep it topped off, you can suck it dry and you have to start over. With the check valve you just pump out the fluid. They also make one with an integrated socket. They are nice when they fit. On the Honda ST1300, it doesn't fit on all the bleed points because of where they are positioned on the caliper and interference from other hard parts like the fork. So the original like what is linked above is more universal and works better.

Also be sure to change your pads before flushing the fluid. If you do it in reverse (fluid then pads) when you push the caliper pistons back you can overflow your reservoir making a big mess. So change the pads first, seat them by pumping the brakes, then do the fluid topping off to the proper level.

I don't think this is the case with a Vulcan but some bikes have multiple bleed points and they have to be done in a certain order. This is the case on the ST1300. Off the top of my head there are something like 7 bleed points and if you screw up the order you will have air in the lines. This is because some bikes like that have linked brakes where it actuates front and rear brake no matter if you use the brake lever on the bars or the foot brake. ABS systems can also cause more complexities in the process but not in every case. The process on the ST1300 is the same if it is ABS or not.

I picked up the same Mighty Vac pump at O'Reilly Auto for around $40.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319779744&sr=8-2

This is all I bought for my BRZ, no adapters needed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CJ5DZE2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RfDYzbTRH117C

I'm on mobile so let me know if the link doesn't work for any reason

Worn pads wont cause that bc the reservoir fills in the volume taken up by the worn pads...firm lever should always be there regardless of pad life remaining. Your priority should be to bleed the brakes (lots of tutorials out there...u can even buy one man bleed kits online) and if it's still not firming up you might need a new brake master cylinder. Thats noticably more work but not impossible, i did it and im not particulalry experienced with it.
Brake bleed kit example: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Vacuum-Brake-Automotive-Canning/dp/B00KBA27KA