Best brush & pen cleaners according to redditors
We found 158 Reddit comments discussing the best brush & pen cleaners. We ranked the 7 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 158 Reddit comments discussing the best brush & pen cleaners. We ranked the 7 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
You wanna be the best fiance ever u/vickicamfield?
Get him one of these.
His neck will thank you, his hands will thank you, his precision will thank you. Probably the best purchase I've ever made for minis. You can snag em at most hobby shops.
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Bonus, if he wants to do detail work I recommend a cheap set of reading glasses. He won't have to strain his eyes as much and they are a nice magnifying glass....es... you get the point lol.
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PS: I recommend bright white light for better color recognition and more akin to natural light.
Edit: Also if he is thinning with water, get this. I find it works better than water and mixes with metallics!
Edit 2: For brush care, dont forget to get some brush cleaner and conditioner. Maybe a wet palette for longer paint sessions. For brushes, winsor and newton are always a solid choice.
Edit 3: Folks are asking for essentials. Here is a short list:Vallejo thinner
Masters brush conditioner
Wet palette
Kolinsky brushes
Mini holder
Liquid cement for plastics
Vallejo paints
Citadel paints
Warhammer TV
Cheap airbrush for prime/basecoat
Excellent choices but you forgot two necessities that no one ever seems to cover when they recommend upgrading to quality brushes. Especially ones as expensive as Newtons, which can run in the $40 dollar range for the larger sizes.
[Brush Shaper] (https://www.amazon.com/Speedball-2-Ounce-Brush-Shaper-Restoration/dp/B000UXHBP4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520405791&sr=8-3&keywords=brush+shaper)
This will save you a lot of money and headache in the future and keep your brush tips nice and sharp. I often see people complain about bristle quality and return their brushes because they weren't educated on proper brush care technique or the existence of this product. To give you an idea I have some old Davinci brushes I bought when I first started the hobby 15 years ago and they hold their points like new. Hell even cheapo brushes become actual workman's tools when you use this stuff.
Brush Soap
-Masters: if you prefer solid bar type soap. One of these will last you for a decade if you keep the lid tight and the soap moist.
or
-[Pink Soap] (https://www.amazon.com/Pink-Soap-12-Ounce-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0027A79I2/ref=pd_sbs_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0027A79I2&pd_rd_r=5FGK26S58JK2D46M7DK3&pd_rd_w=7U2UF&pd_rd_wg=jjUmB&psc=1&refRID=5FGK26S58JK2D46M7DK3&dpID=31GCq6nHuxL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail): If you prefer liquid.
Remember these are art brushes designed to be handled by an experienced artist with a light touch. Their intended use isn't mini painting which can be quite brutal on brush fibers. Miniature hobbyists and modelers aren't, in general, what I would call trained painters (no shade thrown) so using them as a resource in handling artists tools can be a bit limiting or downright pricey. As such I recommend it to anyone to watch this brush care vid by someone who uses the products I linked to maintain his gear. Proper brush care will save you a ton of money over time allowing you to spend that saved cash on new minis rather than on replacing your tools.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
This is the brush soap that everybody recommends.
Make sure you don't get paint in the ferrule (the metal bit where the bristles meet the brush). Paint will dry there and cause the splaying. Frequently rinse off the brush in a cup of water while you're painting.
You sure do, I posted a product below. You can get it in most hobby stores and all art supply stores. Little bit of water and move the brush around in the soap work out all the crap. If you take care of your "nice new sable brushes" they will take care of you :)
https://www.amazon.ca/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
This stuff might save it. Also good to have regardless, keeps the bristles perfectly clean.
Kolinsky round brushes #1-3, maybe #0 and #4; these are the mini painter's tool of choice and he will always need them because they wear out. Series 7, Raphael, da Vinci, Roubloff are all world-class brands. Look to pay around $8-18 per brush (not sure what country you are in). If he doesn't have any already get him a puck of Master's brush soap to go along, because proper care will preserve his tools for months and years depending on frequency of use. You will look savvy as fuck too.
Definitely the Masters Brush Cleaner/Preserver. Most commonly recommended stuff out there. I've been using this for a good amount of painting the last 4 months and have hardly made a dent in the amount I have. 100% worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1479362298&sr=1-1&keywords=the+masters+brush+cleaner
Edit: It also smells like lemons and happiness.
My recommended buying list for a new painter is:
Tools
Sprays
○ Grey is standard, white if you're painting a majority of light colors, and black if the majority is dark.
Brushes
○ Round 0
○ Round 1
○ Round 2
All in all it should be around $60 USD for the tools and about $40 USD for the brushes. However, this list gives you every tool you will need to get started and to continue with the hobby.
This is just what I like to have on hand, this does not reflect the "perfect list". I hope it helps :)
Paint has gotten into the ferrule, or base of the bristles. Try to avoid getting paint that high up. Leaving the brush submerged in the water pot can cause this too. Also, cleaning your brushes once done is paramount. Most folks here swear by General Pencil's Master Brush Cleaner. This will clean and condition your brushes, to keep their fine point.
> Is there any reason to take Hormagaunts over Genestealers?
When having more bodies on the table and tying up enemy units in melee is a greater consideration than just killing units outright.
This is a rare situation lol. Killing is good. But there are some fringe cases... for example, you're playing Hive Fleet Behemoth rules and you want to use their unique stratagem (Brute Force, which basically has a 16% chance to deal a mortal wound for each friendly model that makes it into close combat) and you need to bring down something with a strong invul save (so like... Mortarian, or Guilliman, or somebody) and your only option is to drown it in low quality bodies.
In those cases it might be more useful to just have a fucking gargantuan amount of Hormagaunts.
But in 99% of situations, Genestealer spam is superior, for the points.
> I'd like to use florescent dye on my 'nids, so they glow-in-the-dark. Is this viable; If so, how would I go about it (mix the dye with the paint? Apply it as a gloss?); & what should I use to do so, specifically?
I haven't messed with this myself but I would assume if it is of a compatible material it should be mixable. Is the dye acrylic? Most miniature paints are acrylic.
> * Any painting/modelling tips you could give me would be greatly appreciated.
Make a wet palette, learn the difference between priming/basing/layering/washing/highlighting/drybrushing, get a drybrush, get a base coating brush, get a fine detail brush.... then once you figure out what you're doing and you're ready to REALLY detail some fine detail, graduate to a Windsor & Newton Series 7 sable hair detail brush... sable hair is so much better at holding a fine point and stays moist longer.
Also, invest in a tub of brush cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
It's cheap and lasts forever, just get your brush wet, brush it back and forth on the top of the block o' soap, get the soap all massaged into the bristles, and rinse with room temp water. Repeat until the bristles are nice and silky smooth.
Never get paint in the ferrule (the part where the bristles join with the rest of the brush). Never get any sort of chemicals in there either, like isopropyl alcohol or even soap if you can manage. Cheaper brushes use weak glues and soap could dissolve them - probably not an issue on a Windsor & Newton brush, but you don't want to take the risk. Just be in the habit of only immersing brushes in things-other-than-water up to the ferrule, never past it.
Water in the ferrule is fine and should not be a problem. Always rinse your brushes when you're finished painting for the day, dried paint will fuck your brushes up over time.
Decide on a paint scheme and then paint your SMALL models first! Do all your learning on the little dudes that nobody is looking at on the table lol. Then once you've built your skill up, do the big impressive looking monsters. When you have 30 Hormagaunts all climbing over each other to get to the enemy, they can look like absolute shit individually but as a horde they look awesome as long as you have them all painted identically. The uniformity is what makes them pop. But when you have one single monster by itself, people look very closely at that and technique is more important.
Paint your swarms in batches. Prime all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait till the next day. Base coat all 30 Hormagaunts. Wait a day. Layer the Hormagaunts' carapace. Etc. Do one step for 30 models, not 30 steps for one model. This prevents a lot of logistical bullshit like running out of space on your wet palette.
Most importantly, make "om nom nom nom" noises when finishing off enemy units.
> When moving a unit along their movement value'd distance, do you usually measure out the lead model, move it, and then move each other model in the unit in approximately the same (but not measured) distance to maintain coherency, or do you measure out each individual model in a unit to ensure not a single one possibly goes further than its value? Or is this something agreed upon by the players pre-match?
> If each model is measured, I could see some units (ie, conscript squads) being extremely time-consuming or difficult to deal with depending on terrain and model count.
Officially, each model. However almost everyone I've ever played with does it the "time saving way" when dealing with large groups of models. This usually isn't a problem when you are clearly moving them less than max movement range. This is especially the case with horde units that have greater than 10 models to a unit. 20x Poxwalkers for instance. Once you get used to playing, it isn't too time consuming for a single 5 model Marine squad.
> On the second question, is there a generally agreed upon "kit" or set of paint brushes to get before starting to paint models? In addition to the First Strike box I got last night, I also got the small Painting Essentials box which includes a brush (along with cutter, glue, and some small pots), but wasn't sure what other brushes I might need/want before starting to paint.
The "goto" kit for brushes tends to be a Winsor and Newton Series 7 Round Size #2 and #0. Keep them clean with Master's Brush soap and they'll last you a long time. You can find them on Amazon. At $10-$15 a brush they aren't cheap when starting out. And that's arguably more then you need for a first model. You can get by with a cheap bag of small "gold taklon" brushes from walmart or similar at first.
Here's something I wrote recently on brushes for someone else looking for some nicer brushes....
https://www.reddit.com/r/deathguard40k/comments/8ac9ui/what_warhammer_brushes_should_i_get_what_vallejo/
As for Army Painter brushes specifically. It's what I started with before moving to Kolinsky Hair brushes. Still use a number of their small dry brushes for small detail dry brushing. If you are set on Army Painter... The Wargamer series, specifically the Regiment, Character, and Detail brushes are pretty solid. As well as the Wargamer Small Drybrush. Certainly better than Walmart synthetics. Have held up well cleaning with Masters Brush Soap linked below. They just have never had the same type of fine tip you get on a Kolinsky. The super small Army Painter brushes aren't really worth it though in the long run.
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I have a large collection of brushes with my better half. Bought her a large collection from different brands from around the world so she could try different styles to find the perfect brush for her.
Essentially, you'll want a Natural Kolinsky fiber brush in round shape for miniature base coating, shading, layering, edging and detail work. They will last you quite a while if you take care of them. Most people find they can do everything with a #2 and #0. A workhorse and a detail brush. Good natural Kolinsky hair helps thinned paint flow properly out of the brush, and holds an excellent point. There are a number of options to get a good Kolinsky brush:
As for brands, you have options:
Then you'll want to keep it all clean with "The Masters" Brush Soap and Conditioner. Cleaning regularly will make a big difference brush life. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ ... Keeping brushes freshly rinsed in a basin can help prevent the bad buildup of dried paint to begin with. This kind of thing... https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-Brush-Tub-II/dp/B0019IKYU8/ or really any sturdy cup you have around that won't tip over easily.
NOTE - You'll want to use cheaper brushes for Drybrushing, it can just murder brushes. Either walmart/craft store brushes you can toss, or just cheaper quality brushes made for it, like Army Painter or Citadels drybrush lines.
As for paint... I use Army Painter and Citadel. Citadel primarily for anything warhammer to get color matches. Army painter for some washes, and anything else I paint (boardgame and DnD minis). Rither now I are only using Vallejo for Airbrush paints and a few premium metallics.
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There's a great guide that got me and my other half started over on the /r/minipainting subreddit. https://www.reddit.com/r/minipainting/comments/50hd3a/rminipainting_buying_guide_hd_remastered/
Yos should use this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/General-Pencil-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
It works like magic.
I approve of this message and I have nothing to add.
Except that I use a size 6 brush for almost everything.
[EDIT] Wait, I do have something ESSENTIAL to add: Get this brush cleaner. I've been working on the same tub of it for the last year and it works miracles with any brush. Even if the brush has paint dried on it this stuff will still make you very happy.
Here's a few quick tips.
Never leave your brushes standing in a water pot. The bristles will bend and fray very quickly (like less than a minute).
Never let the paint get on or around the metal ferrule part of the brush. That's the bit where the bristles join the handle. Paint is hard to get out of there, and when it dries, it can push out, bend or cut the bristles.
Try to keep the paint to only half of the bristle length.
Wash often and thoroughly. Don't let paint dry in the bristles. Keep it wet, or wash out and get more paint. As above, keep the paint volume minimal. You can load the brush up a bit more if it's a more watery paint like a wash or glaze.
Further to above, you can use brush cleaner or conditioner. It helps get the paint off a bit better than water and can help hold the shape for longer. Can also help remove dried up paint.
I've recently started using Masters Brush Cleaner (https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM). Comes in heaps of sizes, will last for AGES and it's amazing how much extra paint it gets out of the brush.
Try not use detail and high quality brushes for "rough" painting or drybrushing. That sort of motion can damage and bend the thin bristles. Use a specific drybrush or a cheap $2 one for that.
Generally more expensive brushes are better, but there is a limit to that. I jumped over to Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes and it made a big difference to my painting, however, they still get damaged and they won't last forever either. Obviously, good care will make them last longer but I've been pretty bad at that lately.
For a new painter some of the Army Painter or GW range is a pretty good start. Once you get better and learn to care for the brushes properly, then grab yourself some more expensive stuff.
Give this stuff a go it’s saved me many pounds on brushes
https://www.amazon.co.uk/General-Pencil-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1 Ounce https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_btrEwb6B57JRV
That's the standard size. £4.16 + free uk delivery.
Do you use a brush soap to clean your brushes? I use this:http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
The key is to leave some soap on the brush when you are not using it and shape the brush to a point (or however it is naturally suppose to be shaped) so that when it dries it will keep that shape. Just be sure to thoroughly rime the brush in your water cup before dipping in the paint.
I use some brush cleaning soap like this one after painting: https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_p7b6AbGXXKP4R
As you should, get some of this wax. Rinse, run brush across paper towel until it's mostly clean, dip in water, swirl brush gently in this stuff, rinse, run across towel, do until the brush is back to normal color, do one more time but this time focus on reshaping the tip
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009RRT9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522148457&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=brush+cleaner+and+preserver
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539364989&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+brush+cleaner
That's the brand
The Masters brush cleaner & preserver is awesome for cleaning and maintaining your brushes. It also lasts forever because you only need a teensy tiny bit to give your brushes a lil spa day! https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
Winsor and Newton Series 7, I do 99% of my work with size 0 and 1 brushes, and just use my 000 for faces and extremely small highlights.
Also, if you're destroying your brushes that quickly you need to take better care of them. Make sure you're not using them to mix paint, don't let paint get in the ferrule (the metal part), and clean them regularly with this magic stuff
Yay! Painting! I hope you enjoy it. :)
For tools:
After rinsing out your brushes in your jar or water or whatever, be sure to wipe it down with towel/rag, then lay it flat. DON'T LEAVE THEM SITTING IN THE JAR. They get messed up that way. I also swear by The Master's Brush Cleaner. I generally use it after a painting session. It has saved a few mistreated brushes from the garbage can.
Another tool that I use frequently is matte medium and different kinds of flow releasers. You probably won't need this just yet, but I found that they helped me immensely. When you're using acrylics, chances are that you're using water to dilute pigment and thin out your paint as you go along. This is fine, for the most part, but it sometimes takes a lot of mixing to get an even consistency. Using an acrylic-based medium will allow you to thin out your paint without having the weird quality that you get with water. Again, this might not be something you'll even think about or notice until you've been painting for a while.
Pure, transparent matte medium is also good to paint on tape edges before you go in with your color to ensure a clean, hard edge.
If you're using acrylics, a hairdryer can be your friend. The thing about acrylics is that they air-dry quickly, and even moreso with a dryer. This means that once you've made a mistake, or finished an area to a certain degree, you can dry it off with the hairdryer, then almost immediately cover it up with another coat.
As for actual technique, you learn more as you go along. You'll develop experience, personal style, preference, influences, etc.. But here are some general things I keep in mind:
Paint from the background to the foreground. This means that you paint, say, your blue sky before the mountain. This ensures that:
(edit: As with drawing, you should be aware of the whole canvas at once, and block big parts in first, then work to details. Don't let my above process get in the way of taking care of the "big picture" stuff. It just happens that for me at least, the background is often the largest part of the composition!)
Also, remember to mix for black whenever possible. Using black straight out of the tube can feel flat and cheap. Unless that's something you're going for, at least mix it with another color to give it some depth.
Then there's even more about color. What do you know about mixing colors, pigment, etc.? Do you work in, say, colored pencils or even color digital media at all? I can talk for ages about more of this kind of stuff. But I've said enough already.
There's so much to know! One of the best things you can do to teach yourself is to also look at your favorite artists and see if you can research their techniques. Read interviews with them, some might post videos, etc. etc. But most of all-- have fun and experiment.
So what are you planning on painting? Are we talking entire models, or just detail work, or doing mini painting like /r/minipainting?
Reason I ask is that kinda gives reason as to what to buy.
I do a lot of hand painting as do a great deal of warhammer models, for these you need a decent set of kolinksy sable brushes but they're not cheap. I have brushes from the Army Painter, from Windsor Newton, from Citadel all of which aren't cheap. I have a decent set of synthetic brushes for doing lesser critical work but generally stick to sable for detail work. In honesty it's very rare to use a 00/000/0000 brush, the reason is they hold such little paint the paint can dry on them really quickly. You can paint the same detail with a 1 or a 0 as a 0000 if you're careful.
I'd suggest to work out exactly what you're after first, if it's to do entire models then check out videos from the likes of Owen at Quickkits as he brushes all his models.
If I were starting out fresh and wanted a good set of brushes off the bat I'd honestly buy this set by Army Painter. Yes it's not cheap, but it's got decent detail brushes, standard size and large area brushes. It's also got a nice set of coarse drybrushes.
Something else to consider is brush care, afterall you spend a fortune on brushes and then they split etc, it's a really sad day when one of my WN brushes splits.
A few tips from me, never fully load a brush, never fill it to the metal ferrule with paint, in honesty half full is too much imo. Always thin your paint. Routinely rinse your brush and have two pots to rinse. First water pot for a propper rinse, then a second pot to rinse finally. Dry by wiping along a paper towel. At the end of a painting session, take your brushes to the sink and rinse under warm water and use a brush cleaner/preserver like Masters. You don't want paint to dry within the bristles or the ferrule as this will make the brush split, so always keep them wet, don't let paint dry in your brush. Always store horizontally with the plastic bristle protector on, never leave a brush bristle down in a water pot ever. But be prepared that even a really well maintained brush, used a decent amount will die after six-eight months or so.
If you ever need brush cleaner, this works really well. I have used alcohol before though, and it definitely works well for dried on paint with a bit of soap.
This stuff work wonders for cleaning & maintaining your brushes.
Amazon Link
I have seen a lot of people recommend Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver, as linked below.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
I've got myself a pot and it is really good, the first time i used it I was amazed how much paint came out of what I thought was a 'clean' brush.
Quite cheap as well, and it will last forever.
I use an iwata HP-BCS.
http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/iwata-airbrushes/eclipse/
Its great because it will take any paint I have thrown at it without thinning. It feels like an industrial airbrush with the thick paints I can use and it's really nice not to have to worry about thinning paint. This can also be a bit of a problem because it will also throw paint chunks if you have contaminated or old paint.
This brush does have some disadvantages. The needle does on occasion needs a touch of lube to keep it working well and it took me a long time to figure this out (herp derp). The double action is nice but it makes it a little harder to clean but I've never really had a problem cleaning it so this is mostly what other people say about the double action brushes.
That said, It might be nice to have the style with the top feed hopper, something like the HP-CS. A design like this would mean I would waste less paint and make it easier to just drip some in and go. With my brush you need to fill enough of the bottle to allow the pickup hose to reach the paint and this wastes paint when It comes time to clean the bottle. I also find I am poring paint back and forth a lot, and all that can lead to paint contamination and spills.
As for maintenance I use mostly water cleanup paints so I just run water through it. For the occasional deep clean I use this magic stuff called. ["Brush Cleaner and Restorer" from Winsor & Newton] (https://smile.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Brush-Cleaner-Restorer/dp/B005M4W1VK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511330111&sr=8-6&keywords=paint+brush+cleaner). It has very little smell seems pretty non-toxic (and is labeled as such) and will remove any oil, enamel, acrylic, or wax paints I have ever used. I can't say enough about this stuff. Just soak the needle and spray head in this stuff for a while and wipe with a q-tip and your brush (air or hair) will look like new.
In conclusion, with my experience with the just the HP-BCS, I would probably not buy it again, but instead get the HP-CS. Its pretty much the same brush but that top feed style seems much easier to clean and would waste less paint, especially with the dropper style paints like Vallejo sells.
Also, for the love of anything remotely holy, clean your drybrush as soon as you're done using it!
Generally, you don't thin the paint you use when drybrushing so the paint dries faster and thicker and will ruin your bristles if you're not careful.
I like to use this to clean my brushes. Drybrush will still wear away your brush, but cleaning it with more than just water will keep it going for much longer.
Also, all the greebling on the the Y-wing will be a great way to practice washing and drybrushing!
All you need is water to clean off the bristles, and some brush soap at the end of the session.
Thinners are generally reserved for enamels and oils.
Hey OP, you specifically need brush soap. Also for some really gunky brushes you can get some brush restorer. The first is a soap made specifically for paint brushes and the restorer is a clear liquid that can help get paint that is caught in the ferrule. The restorer is great. I bought a set of helping hands and I've revived some really old brushes by just letting them sit in there for a few hours. Winsdor and Newton make the restorer.
Anyways, brush soap is ideal for holding the bristles firm and to help remove paint from between the fibers. You definitely need to get some. Even if you still go through brushes like mad this is just proper brush-hygiene. My cleaning process is to at least clean every brush I used at the end of every painting session. I also clean them when I move to a totally different color (e.g. blues to reds). "The Masters" is a good and very popular brush soap and I also oddly like the scent Amazon Link.
Cheers, PS: Make sure you get the soap wet before you start swiping the brush all up on it. ;)
Edit: PSS: Do not stick your brush in restorer fluid past the ferrule. It will eat away the glue binding everything together and you will have ruined a brush.
I wonder how the BB one compares to the General Pencil Company cleaner I've heard so much about.
I currently just swirl my brushes around in soapy water and it can be quite time consuming for foundation brushes. I need to try one of these products. I also want to get a spray to use on eyeshadow blending brushes between thorough washes.
I use this brush cleaner. When I'm done using my brushes for the day I clean them with it (just water and the cleaner) and then wash them. I then lather the brushes in the cleaner again before hanging them up on the rack. The cleaner dries semi-hard and helps keep the points straight and firm.
I use this stuff and it is incredible at getting paint out and keeping brushes happy.
Brush Soap
What a lovely idea! For me, it's been fun testing out materials and finding what I like to use. Depending on her media interests, here's what I'd recommend thinking about:
A Brush Pen (especially for cartooning on the go!):
http://www.amazon.com/Pentel-Pocket-Brush-Refills-GFKP3BPA/dp/B002LJRKN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448983878&sr=8-1&keywords=cartooning+brush
A Nice Brush:
http://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Kolinsky-Pointed-Brushes/dp/B0013E68TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448984196&sr=8-1&keywords=Windsor-Newton+Series+7+sable+%232
Some Ink:
http://www.amazon.com/Speedball-2-Ounce-India-Super-Black/dp/B0007ZJ8TM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1448983937&sr=8-3&keywords=ink+cartooning
A Brush Cleaner:
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=pd_sim_201_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=512oIauSQjL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR149%2C160_&refRID=1J5XTFQ5TBWPSS5E39AV
An Ames Lettering Guide:
http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Ames-Lettering-Guide-AL666/dp/B001DNAHRO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448984324&sr=8-1&keywords=AMES+LETTERING+GUIDE
A copy of Making Comics by Scott McCloud (SO useful!):
http://www.amazon.com/Making-Comics-Storytelling-Secrets-Graphic/dp/0060780940/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1448984007&sr=8-13&keywords=cartooning
I just bought this at the recommendation of someone here. That will save my hands!
I have that same brush and it also looks like that when it is dry. It is one of my favorite brushes. I read somewhere that as long as the brush comes to a fine point when wet, then all is still good :)
My brush care from my experience - When I'm done painting I rinse or swish the brush with warm water until there is no color if I dab it on a paper towel. Squeeze out excess water, and let them dry on their side (upside down would be better so that water doesn't leak into the ferrule). This is the lazy approach but works best, I'm finding :)
If I used a staining color like phthalo blue, or if I feel like the brush is still dirty, I might use a little of the master's conditioning soap to clean it, rinse, apply a little more to "condition" and then squeeze out excess water and shape to a point. I used to use this every time after I painted, but I heard it can be a little harsh on natural bristles so now I just do it every once in awhile.
Another tip is just to be gentle with brushes while painting - if you scrub with them they wear out quicker - I often use a cheap brush when mixing colors or doing scrubby things.
I'm not 100% sure this is the best care for brushes, as every guide or person seems to have their own way, but this is how I've been taking care of my natural and synthetic brushes for a few years and almost all of them are still holding up well. Some of my synthetic brushes are losing their sharp tip a little over time.
Brushes whatever you need, I use a lot the 0, 3/0 and 10/0 all round tipped but this depends on how you paint. A lot of people here (in other posts) mentioned Winston and Newton series 7 if I remember well, I use davinci and vallejo ones. The best bristle is from kolinsky sable.
About having the same brush repeated for each type of paint is kinda retarded but if you feel like doing it go ahead.
What you really need if you want them to last is this
. Just google it and there're a ton of vids on how to use it (not hard but just in case)
This
It's a lifesaver, have used it for a long time as a painter, works just as well for modeling. clean your brushes with it after every session. you can also find, at art stores, brush reshaping conditioners made to fix frayed bristles.
if you are buyng high quality brushes, they need to be very well taken care of to be worth the money.
are you painting detail work, or whole kits?
The only reason to stay away from GW brushes is the price. You can buy comparable brushes for slightly less that's all.
At the end of the day, whatever brush you buy: TAKE CARE OF THEM.
I'd say for anything that's smaller than a vehicle, a well maintained 1 is a fine brush. If the tip is good, you can go as high as a 3 but will need some good control. I do edge highlighting with a 000 to 0, I have an 18/0 for eyes. I'll base with a 1 or larger depending on how quickly I want it done.
Here's a Brush Cleaner I, and a lot of people I know, use
Army Painter are probably the best reasonably priced equivalent however if you want to up your game definitely splash out on some Windsor and Newton Series 7 like /u/Route66_LANparty mentioned.
Whatever you go with make sure you get some of this, proper use will keep your brushes alive for months on end ;)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520353247&sr=8-1&keywords=masters+brush+cleaner
Masters brush cleaner is awesome. It's basically a soap you work into the brush and it can revitalize even far gone brushes.
Amazon
Here's Les from the Awesomepaintjob using it
It's good stuff.
(DEATH TO THE FALSE EMPEROR!)
I'd say with almost absolute certainty, DO NOT BUY the citadel brushes. Buy 1 or 2 Winsor Newton series 7 brushes. Probably a #1 and a #0. Buy some of this masters brush cleaner as well. And you're set. My personal advice is to clean your brush every 5-10 minutes no matter what. The citadel brushes are sooooo damned expensive for what you get vs what you need that it feels criminal.
I'd also add brush cleaner for when you upgrade to the nice brushes.
linky
This is a fairly affordable set that will help you get started.
Also, get brush cleaner to extend the life of your brushes.
When you get some natural bristle brushes that you want to keep clean this helps keep them in good shape.
Remember to dunk your brushes in water every few minutes, while you're painting, to keep paint from drying on the bristles. Also, don't store them standing up. Store them laying down so that water and paint don't work into the ferrule.
Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:
> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?
If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.
> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?
This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.
> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.
For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.
> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?
Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.
> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.
I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.
> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?
Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.
> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?
Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.
> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?
A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.
> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?
Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.
> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?
Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.
You might try Master's Brush Cleaner (some of the liquid brush repair fluids might work as well, try looking for the one from Winsor & Newton) and see if that works; however I wouldn't count on it.
It's quite personal (some very good painters I know use cheap nylon or Citadel brushes exclusively and replace as needed), but I would say that buying a W&N S7 brush was a revelation for me.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518662342&sr=8-1&keywords=masters+brush+cleaner
THIS!
It may be cheaper if you go to an actual art supply store. I bought mine at Blick Art Supply store for around $5-6. It is amazing! I originally bought it for paint brushes and then read online how it was also used by many for makeup brushes. Cleans + Conditions (so your bristles are kept in good condition).
I'm sure Dawn soap will clean them, but I don't know if other chemicals in there will hurt them long run. I would recommend Masters Brush Cleaner. I found some in a local art supply store.
do it. Easily the best money you'll ever spend and it's only like $9 for the masters kind, which will last you a year at least.
Linky: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1523038510&sr=8-5&keywords=brush+soap
EDIT: bought mine in July 2016 and it's still only about a quarter used up...so yeah. lol
You can look into some more tailored brush soap as opposed to just dish soap. This is what I use and it works pretty well. Similar process to what you're currently using and you can also leave some of the soap on to dry to "sculpt" and condition the brushes back into shape.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=pd_sim_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0009RRT9Y&pd_rd_r=QQF6259AR9VGHKBWVB05&pd_rd_w=KwWqo&pd_rd_wg=HjxeS&psc=1&refRID=QQF6259AR9VGHKBWVB05
I've used the stuff you find at a Hobby store, cheap brushes you find in a package of 20 for $2 and have started using the Da Vinci series of brushes. All brushes work and work with varying results. However, the issue is longevity. I've had to toss all the Hobby store brushes after 3 or 4 months because they start to fray and split. The Da Vinci brushes on the other hand I've been using for quite awhile and they still work as if I just took them out of the package.
I picked up this stuff which has made cleaning the brushes much easier, more thoroughly and increased the longevity, but the Hobby store brushes just don't last very long.
if you want to buy the cheap $5 brushes and replace them frequently then they'll work fine. But you tend to get "Attached" to a brush and how it works so longevity is a key factor for me.
Yeah that thing is called "helping hands" I believe, it serves the same purpose more or less.
Vallejo paint is arguably some of the longest lasting paint on the market, I would avoid GamesWorkshop paints as they have a reputation of drying out fast. However my Vallejo bottles from 2009 are still kicking.
Yeah, get him a canister of this stuff, and a couple either Raphael 8404 or Winsor & Newton S7's and he won't really need any other brush for years.
You can buy cheap airbrush kits from the "master" brand that include an airbrush and air compressor for I think about 80$, I don't personally have any experience with them so I can't say much about them. I've heard that the compressors will last a decent amount of time, comparable if not better than more expensive air compressors like Grex. And you can upgrade the airbrush at a later date for an entry level Iwata Revolution for like 70$.
A wet palette is a palette with a sponge or paper towel soaked in water covered by a piece of parchment paper. Basically it keeps paint moist so that they don't dry out within a few minutes of laying them on the palette. You can make one for nothing, you literally just need a stack of paper towels, a flat Tupperware container and a roll of parchment paper. But there are companies that make wet palettes and sell pre-cut inserts and such.
Here's a big fat messy shopping list I made for someone a while ago. You might find it useful too.
http://www.amazon.com/Quickshade-Ink-Warpaints-Army-Painter/dp/B00HC8D80W
Amazon.com: Quickshade Ink Set Warpaints Army Painter
http://www.amazon.com/Pacer-Technology-Zap-Zap-Adhesives/dp/B00SXJJ2QI
Amazon.com: Pacer Technology (Zap) Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1 oz
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
Amazon.com : General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. : Brush Soap
http://www.amazon.com/Army-Painter-Wargame-Starter-Paint/dp/B01BJ55UDQ
Buy Army Painter Wargame Starter Paint Set - PLUS Promo Undead figure
http://www.amazon.com/280715-American-Accents-Primer-12-Ounce/dp/B00KZ6LLZW?
Buy Rust Oleum 280715 American Accents Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, White Primer, 12-Ounce
http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6655-Needle-File-10-Piece/dp/B000NPUKYS?
TEKTON 6655 Needle File Set, 10-Piece
http://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X3311-Precision-Knife-Blades/dp/B0000DD1N4?
Buy Xacto X3311 N0. 1 Precision Knife With 5 No. 11 Blades
http://www.amazon.com/Most-Wanted-Wargamer-Set/dp/B007H4YR8S
Amazon.com: 1 X Most Wanted Wargamer Brush Set
http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI
Xuron 170-II Micro-Shear Flush Cutter: Wire Cutters
http://www.amazon.com/Milliput-Standard-2-Part-Hardening-Yellow/dp/B011BO9R5W
Amazon.com: 2 X Milliput Standard 2-Part Self Hardening Putty, Yellow/Grey
Edit: Of, and I used this guide for making my Thinner. http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/15 But I'm going to experiment more, because this is not perfect.
There are definitely better alternatives, but you can't go wrong using GW's brushes. All of GW's tutorials and videos use their own brand, and I find it easier to "follow along" by using them too. I imagine if I got some more experience and skill under my belt that I'd want to shift to using some higher quality brushes, but for a casual or beginner, I think they're just fine. You don't need to go hogwild and buy the entire range, just get some of the standard sizes and you'll be set (the essential set is a good selection).
Winsor & Newton brushes seem to be popular alternatives, but are kind of pricey. The Army Painter has a line comparable to GW at around the same price. Amazon has tons of inexpensive hobby brushes for acrylic paints; be sure to check the reviews to see how they hold up if you go that route.
Regardless of what brushes you get, do yourself a favor and get the Masters Brush Cleaner. It's like a magic panacea for brush care.
> "Your paint should be transparent enough to where you can actually see through it."
He then goes on to say that your paint should be thinned such that you can paint over a newspaper and still read the words after the paint has dried.
Paint thinning is just one of those skills you need to develop. And the only way to do that is to paint.
Be careful when highlighting red. To me, orange-ish highlights look correct, but pinkish highlights typically look wrong. It probably depends on the particular piece, but I've almost always seen people highlight red with orange. Other colors should highlight fine by mixing white.
You want to get above a certain threshold of brush quality, but after that you'll encounter diminishing returns. Avoid cheapo, "kid-quality", dollar store brushes. Those will just let you down. You want a brush that will hold a point and will hold onto its bristles - it's really frustrating when a brush sheds bristles into wet paint on your mini. I suspect that any "student quality" or above brush will be fine. I would avoid hog's hair brushes for mini painting - hog's hair is pretty stiff. A decent synthetic brush is probably what you want. I splurged when I got started (at the suggestion of some Youtuber) and picked up a set of Windsor and Newton Series 7, Kolinsky Sable brushes. I like them a lot. They're expensive (Amazon shows them about $10 - $15 each). But they should last a long time if you take care of them.
Speaking of which, get some brush soap. That should keep your brushes alive longer.
One final piece of advice - paint! When I got started, I watched tons of YouTube videos, I tried to copy other people's techniques. I turned it into a science. Doing those things isn't bad (YouTube especially is FULL of great tips), but at the end of the day, the best way to learn is to fail. Get painting and you will see your skills improve before your very eyes.
Paints: Vallejo Basic Colors, plus a few Reaper MSP paints like Truesilver, Gem Purple, and Adamantium black (which I used on the bases). I spent a lot of time mixing up new shades.
Primer: I'm a fan of spray primers since they tend to be a bit more even-coated and don't ruin details, I just used some Rustoleum Grey spray primer since I don't have an airbrush setup. Example.
Brushes: I use the Virtuoso 15-piece set, but most of those are too big for fine detail work, so it might be worth investing in even smaller brushes. Getting eyes right is fiendishly difficult.
Misc: I sometimes use a magnifying glass with clamps on it, but you need to be careful not to splash paint on it. I also use this after rinsing out my brushes.
You should absolutely check out r/minipainting for more resources, there's a lot to work with in their FAQs.
I really like this for cleaning my brushes, and diluted baby shampoo works very well too. I mix 1/2 water and 1/2 shampoo, which also makes the brushes easier to rinse.
A silicone scrub pad like this gives a deeper clean than rubbing against your palm, and speeds up the process quite a bit. I used it for the first time yesterday, and it took me about half the time than it used to.
I clean all my brushes and my BB knock off daily. Otherwise I break out something awful. I use this stuff and it's magic. I had a lip brush that had been stained from a magenta lippie for years. It came clean the first time I washed it with that.
I haven't had a problem with mold, but I haven't had mine for very long. I think sanitizing it occasionally with alcohol like /u/SecretCitizen40 says is a good idea.
Masters Brush Cleaner is the key. Use it and they'll last for a long time. I'm fairly new to minipainting, but I have been building models for a long time, I still have the first Series 7 I bought nearly 10 years ago.
This particular model might be done already. From what I can see you do not use a wet palette, washes or do highlights. Time to grab another model and once you get more comfortable with your skills you can return to this guy and fix him up.
As a basic rule for painting minis, you should paint in multiple, thin layers always starting with a darker color than the final one you wish to achieve, building up to the highlights. Painting this way gives you more control over the final result but is of course time consuming. Of course there are always exceptions to the rule. Part of the hobby!
Good luck fellow Heretic!
I'm excited for you!
I swipe it around in brush cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM?ie=UTF8&keywords=brush%20soap&qid=1463077999&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2.
It usually seems to get off some color that didn't get rinsed in the water.
Thanks :) The smallest brush I used on these is a 2/0, it's important to have a really good point though. I use Winsor and Newton series 7. I usually start with a GW standard size brush for basecoating the larger areas and then use a size 0 for the bulk of the work, finish some minor details and the eyes with the 2/0.
The higher quality brushes just last a bit longer by keeping a point a little better. It's important to take good care of them though so that they can last. Rinse them really well, be careful not to let paint get into the ferrule, and I use this stuff every once in a while:
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467427051&sr=8-2&keywords=brush+soap
I think the process of doing eyes is the key, and it really takes patience. It took me a long time to figure out a good way for me to get it to look good. Elizabeth's Sarya tutorial (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/coolminiornot/arcadia-quest-inferno/posts/1616987) is pretty much the way I do it, although I do the black pupil before i do the highlighting of the iris, don't think that matters much.
Haha yeah no tricks for the bases. I use the standard size brush to put on the gray, then put on some spots of red/ purple/ yellow for the other color stones, then use the 2/0 brush to draw in some lines.
The big ones at least look good. The small ones can be ruined quickly, but this is true with all cheap brushes, basically. So if they are not expensive, I'd say go for it. Especially if you are just starting to learn how to paint miniatures, it's much better to get lots of cheap brushes and only once you have a good grasp of the basics you should start checking the more expensive ones (Winsor & Newton, Raphael etc.).
The most important thing with brush care is, as it was already said in another comment, never let paint dry on your brushes. So when painting, stop every now and then and clean your brush. This can be surprisingly difficult as you could be in the zone while painting and don't want to stop, but you should. Properly clean the brush and then dry it by dragging it against a paper towel while turning the brush, so that you will end up with nice sharp shape. Diluting your paints helps with this, too.
Never "load" your brush with paint so that it reaches all the way to the metal thingy (can't remember the actual name). If you load your brush too full and the paint dries, the bristles in your brush will be pointing every direction and this will ruin the brush as it is very difficult to clean it afterwards.
Store the brushes in a mug or similar holder and make sure the brush end points upwards. This will help to keep the brush sharp.
At some point I would advice you to buy some brush cleaning agent specifically designed for the job. I and many others use the Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver, but any soap designed for brush cleaning will do.
That's all I can think of now, but it should get you started. You can also try Youtube for brush care tips by non-miniature painters. Just make sure they use acrylic paints. Good luck!
I personally use Raphael Sable Kolinsky Brushes, sizes from about 0 to 2 depending on what I'm working on. They're fairly priced for their quality and you can definitely feel the difference between this and a cheap brush when painting.
If you make an investment in some nice brushes that you get something to clean them with and keep them in top form. Personally I use the Master's Brush Cleaner.
Would it be a terrible idea to use a paintbrush cleaning soap like this one? It’s supposed to be “mild” but I think that refers more to the brush than to whatever is left in the brush after you wash it. I just like these because they’re a really convenient shape for cleaning brushes. (Also I obviously wouldn’t use the same one I use for paints.)
Is this the item / brand you're referring to?
If so it's on amazonUK :)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498143113&sr=8-2&keywords=masters+brush+cleaner
I don't where you are but Amazon has it. https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
Dang that looks way better than my first models haha.
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Though, I do have advice. I would recommend trying out dry brushing in small layers (bunch of youtube vids on how to do that). What I typically do is dry brush abbadon black as a base coat of sorts, 2-4 coats will do, and then adding mephiston red in thin layers (2-5 will do). It may be overkill but I personally like it that way.
This way, you won't have clumps of paint over your models, nor will there be many brush marks.
​
Note: this technique works well if you get a specific dry brushing brush thing. GW sells one as well and it works pretty well :D
Link: https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/M-Drybrush
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Also, get a brush soap. An absalute neccessity if you want your brushes to work for the years to come.
Link: https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
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Hope this helps and Emperor bless! FOR SANGUINIUS!!
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Edit: had to add stuff and remove [REDACTED]
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Yeah, I would recommend some decent synthetics while you're still learning the ropes. When you're a beginner, you can be unintentionally rough on your brushes and synthetics are cheap + fairly reliable, depending on what you get. Privateer Press makes some good ones: http://privateerpress.com/content/work-hobby-brush . Also, get some of this stuff, it will greatly extend the lifespan of your brushes: http://www.amazon.com/General-Company-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM . Trust me, you'll want to learn good brush care early on, it'll be a lifesaver.
Once you've been at it a while, I would actually recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 line of brushes instead of those miniature brushes. If you're going to buy a Kolinsky sable brush, I would recommend a full sized one like the Series 7, which is the industry standard. The problem with those miniature brushes is like you said: they have a smaller tip and don't hold as much paint, which means more trips to the pot.
Ahh I see that stands for Convergance now. Hold on let me pull that up. Jesus all of those are metallics aren't they. I am very sorry for you. Especially if this is your first time painting. What is your idea of how you want to paint them. At some point you will need a few other non metalic base colors I think. But that it up to you.
Now there are two things you need to know for metalic paints.
So again I hope this helps, and if you have any questions feel free to PM me or just comment back.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/The-Masters-Brush-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM
If you have an art store near you (I went to Blick), go and get The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver! It was made to gently clean art brushes (even oil paint) and it works amazingly well. It's like $6 for a 1 oz solid - they also come in larger tubs but I wanted to make sure I liked it before committing- and it's AMAZING. The makeup just melts off the brushes, they get so nice and soft after washing and it has a nice lemony scent!!
Link for the lazy :)
General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 1 Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zzGRwb944R38A
https://www.amazon.co.uk/General-Pencil-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=artists+brush+cleaner&qid=1571675137&sprefix=artists+brush+cleaner&sr=8-5
Personally, I find this as a great "thank you" for fellow mini painters, as it's relatively cheap and has been something that the two people (massive numbers here...) Who I know, that paint, have never heard of.
Paints- as above- down to your choice. I do like gw paints but the pots are shite and I find there's a lot of wastage, which isn't any fault of mine. That said, it's probably been designed that way so that gw can milk more revenue out of us. I have a lot of love for the Vallejo range, I find their textured stuff to be far better, and far more varied than the gw range. To be honest I'm not a big fan of the army painter range, but do use a few of their rattle cans.
Brushes- again, you'll pay through the arse for gw products.. (notice a theme?). I understand a number of pro painters (Sam Lenz springs to mind) who use pretty "standard" cheap brushes to get phenomenal results.
If you have a look on YouTube there's a huge amount of channels dedicated to the hobby and offering detailed analysis of paint brands, brushes etc. Miniac is a great start.
Hope this helps, just my two pence :)
Top tier brush cleaner.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
This stuff? Is that okay to use on something you're going to put on your face? It's so cheap but I'm afraid of it because it says it's for paint brushes. :s
At the end of an evening of painting I will dampen the brush I've been using in clean water (not the cup of water I have been using while painting, thus full of paint and potentially metallic flakes) and brush back and forth in my little cup of brush soap. Looks like this. Then rinse in clean water. Wipe off moisture on paper towel. Restore the tip of the brush by dragging it along towel or crease in the palm of your hand while rotating the brush. Replace the brush cap and store the brush vertically if possible, bristles down. Once a month, take a very tiny amount of hair conditioner (not shampoo/conditioner combo), brush the bristles in it for a bit to work it in, leave it sit for a minute or two. Rinse and store. If you do that, the brush will last a huge amount of time. Also don't use your best brush for dry brushing, washes, or applying the GW technical paints. Dry brushing is punishing to the tip of the brush, washes will get into the ferule (where the bristles are attached) and when it dries it forces the bristles apart, and technical paint typically has things in it that, like dry brushing, are just hard on the bristles. I would recommend cheap nylons for these uses.
When you dip a brush in a water pot, and I know this sounds excessive, you should avoid having it touch the bottom of the container or banging it into the sides. The bottom can do a lot of damage, the sides less so. I try to swish the brush around when it's a brush I care about. Crap brushes I'll bang them into the side, scrape the bottom.
Brush brands I use are Raphael, but I'm buying some Windsor & Newton Series 7 Miniatures today. There are a bunch of quality brands though. Windsor & Newton are very well respected.
Best of luck in your endeavors! Should you have more questions, need advice, really anything... let me know. I really enjoy passing on what I've learned. I've made mistakes so you don't have to!
I haven't tried it yet myself (I've still got quite a ways to go on my BB solid cleanser) but someone posted this a couple of weeks ago as an alternative -- maybe you can give it a shot if baby shampoo doesn't end up working as well as you'd like!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TNR7VM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523285574&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=paint+brush+cleaner this is the brush cleaner I use. I get my brush wet and then "paint" the cleaner, getting it mushy, and then massage my brushes and rinse a couple times. Helps me a lot. For brushes, Michael's is a good resource or some place local to you. Don't be afraid to spend 5-10 dollars on a single brush. Like OP said a no 1 and no 00 are good, I also like to get a filbert style, no 4 I think, maybe 6, for base coating and wider models like vehicles.
A paintbrush cleaning tank/jar? There are a few different kinds coming up in an Amazon search:
Winsor & Newton Silicoil Brush Cleaning Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ACEI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2endBbEJFRBEQ
Mona Lisa 16-Ounce. Capacity Cleaning Tank (160-017) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UAOEDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UhndBb46Z066V
Naturebelle Airbrush Cleaning Pot, Clean Paint Jar with Air Brush Holder + Nozzle Cleaning Brush Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D41W04U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0indBb23RN51R
Portable Stainless Steel Leak-Proof Premium Brush Washer with Lid and Filter Screen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07517W32S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CjndBb6S65C6H
You buy this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Winsor-Newton-Brush-Cleaner-Restorer/dp/B005M4W1VK?th=1&psc=1
Works on oils and acrylic.
You should dry your brushes bristles down to avoid deteriorating the glue which binds your bristles and rotting the wood components of the brush. Storage (once they're dry) doesn't much matter so long as you keep the bristles clear of obstructions.
Something basic like this works for storage:
https://www.amazon.com/Loew-Cornell-390-Multi-Brush-Organizer/dp/B003W06JL4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482852382&sr=8-2&keywords=brush+storage
Something like this works for drying:
https://www.amazon.com/US-Art-Supply-Deluxe-Cleaner-Brush/dp/B013PB35N4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1482852418&sr=8-4&keywords=brush+washer
Brush Cleaner to keep my paint brushes in good shape! I like to paint miniatures! Here's the first mini I painted, an orc, and my latest WIP: a Union Soldier!
I clean my BB after each use with a solid paintbrush cleaner. It comes in two sizes, (small and large), and you can generally find it at any arts and crafts store. It's MUCH cheaper than the BB brand cleanser. I believe other folks will use solid soaps like Dr. Bronner's.
I use the The Masters Brush Cleaner. It’s an art supply used to clean oil and acrylic off of paint brushes so I know it’s really good for taking dried makeup residue off. It isn’t advertised to clean makeup brushes but its safety data sheet indicates no hazardous material or health hazards. I haven’t tried the brush cleaning balms advertised for makeup brushes but I assume it’s very similar but The Masters Brush Cleaner is much cheaper. You can find it at Hobby Lobby or amazon.
But I just wet my brush and swirl it around gently in there to get the product until it lathers and use a makeup cleaning mat to scrape the residue off. Rinse and repeat until the water is clear.
Then I put one of these net guards around the hairs to keep its shape until it’s dry.
In addition to this, when I clean my brushes, I use this:
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398113082&sr=8-1&keywords=brush+preserver
It helps them to stay clean and keep their shape for far longer than prior to using it.
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1474523589&sr=8-8&keywords=paint+cleaner
THISTHISTHIS
This is what I use. It's really easy--just wet your brushes in warm water and swish it around. Takes about a minute to work all the stuff out, though expect to spend a few minutes on sponges. Doesn't harm bristles and smells amazing!
So I'll give you a link to a list that you may find useful for checking all the boxes on what you may need. I'll post my opinions below on some of the stuff I have found is most important. (I went through this process about 2-3 months ago)
http://www.reapermini.com/Thecraft/32
I LOVE this hobby knife Very important for removing mold lines, cutting off flash, etc. Very important to get one that starts and stays sharp
Primer is incredibly important. You want to make a suitable surface for your paint to adhere to. I would also look up some articles about how to prime. Contrary to popular belief you don't want the entire model to be the color of your prime when you are done! You want it to look almost speckled and have about 80% coverage.
Paint Here is a decent starter box of citadel paint, with a box and some 1/2 decent brushes. Obviously this is a bit pricey, but you get 45 paints plus some helpful extras
Brush Cleaner VITALLY important. Keeps paint out of the ferrule and helps your brushes stay conditioned and pointed
Brushes I just got a Winsor and Newton Series 7 #00, #1 and #2....WOW the difference between these and synthetic brushes is night and day. Painting tasks that seemed to take forever or require too much of a steady hand are MUCH easier now
Dull Cote Matte Spray Essential for providing a matte finish and protection to be able to actually use your minis. This product is excellent for that
Obviously there are many more items that are important to have that are described in more detail in that link I provided. But the ones above are the ones I would consider most essential
Assuming you understand how to use your drybrushes, the rest of it is just finding brushes you like, whether those be a $2 bruch from a hobby store or a $25 Windsor & Newton.
Best learning advice I can give you is to head over to /r/minipainting and start reading and asking questions.
Best actual advice I'll give you is to start using a wet palette, and clean your brushes regularly: http://amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y
I also just started out in acrylics. I'm not sure of a good set that has everything in one, but I can share what I got to get started. For Christmas I got the basics, i.e. Red, Yellow, Blue, White, and Blank paint (Premiere acrylics), some canvases (8x10 and 12x16), a set of 12 different Royal and Langnickel brushes, and a wooden table-top easel.
Additional items I went back to AC Moore and bought:
--Silver, Gold, Brown, Green, Orange, and Purple paints
--A sta-wet palette which keeps your paints from drying up while you are working.
--Palette knife
--Canvas panels
-- Liquitex Gloss medium & Varnish
-- Brush Cleaner (same as this one on Amazon)
Basically I was having trouble finding an All-in one kit, so I got everything separately. One thing I would have done differently is buy a multipack of the paints with more colors to save time mixing. If you want to go pick stuff out in person then AC Moore or Michaels, as JT suggested, are great. Otherwise, everything seems to be on Amazon and the reviews tend to be pretty helpful! I actually made my shopping list by looking up things on Amazon and then went to the store because I was too impatient to want to wait for shipping.
I use this brush cleaner, it's relatively cheap and it cleans my brushes the best. You can also Dawn soap, I let them dry for a day. Good luck!
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382233993&sr=8-2&keywords=the+masters+brush+cleaner
Synthetic brushes will deteriorate no matter what you do. Natural hair brushes are the way to go. I've only had to replace one of my good brushes in the 2 years I've been painting. I use This at the end of every painting session.
Worth every penny you'll ever spend on it.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1453489548&sr=8-10&keywords=brush+cleaner
Ok so just to confirm: If I use The Masters, I'd put some of that on there after each painting session, and that'd act as both cleaner and conditioner? Also, this is the right product, right? http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451426176&sr=8-1&keywords=the+masters+brush+cleaner
User this. Stuff is amazing.
General Pencil Company The Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver 2.5 0z. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F.i4DbDMMRHGY
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B0009RRT9Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1479362298&sr=1-1&keywords=the+masters+brush+cleaner
I just use this cleaner for all my brushes. I use those that I linked a few of the Army Painter ones and I really like the citadel shade brushes.
Don't use GW brand brushes or tools as they are over-priced. Middle of the road quality for near premium prices. Just get yourself a xacto for trimming and some generic hobby clippers.
For paints you should at least look at vallejo and reaper (way better bottle design). Opinions differ but I think Reaper beats them all aside from metallics where GW are head and shoulders over everyone else. Also THIN YOUR PAINTS AND USE A WET PALLET.
Jokes aside a wet pallet, whether DIY parchment paper or store bought, make blending so much easier for a new painter and is my number one suggestion for those just starting out.
For brushes there is a huge range in price (with GW near the top) and quality (GW near the bottome here). Army painter is my go to for synthetic brushes with Kolinsky being the generally held gold standard sable brushes (sable hair forms a finer point). Pick up a set of army painter's (they also have helpful descriptive names rather than numbers) look after them with this magic stuff (you can probaly get it cheaper elsewhere but it last forever anyway) and then see if you want to upgrade later.
Have fun!
As you improve in the hobby you will find yourself using bigger brushes. A size 2 or even a 3 with a good point will serve you better than anything 0 or smaller. Even for most detail.
It's not the size of the brush you use, but the size and shape of the point. I found this myself through experience as I started off painting with the smallest brush I could but the problems you run into using a small brush are threefold :
Paint dries before you can get it on the model, leading to clumps of pigment instead of smooth coats.
Small brushes tend to more easily leave brush strokes showing on your model, especially on flat areas.
Models just take longer to paint, less finished models = slower improvement :)
Sounds like you are heading in the right direction though, next up treat yourself to some brush soap for example: General Pencil The Master's Brush Cleaner & Preserver-1oz https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UoJoDbK5NEARY
Your brushes will thank you :)
Finally and most importantly, feel free to disregard any advice you may get and just dive in and go your own way. The most important thing about the hobby is to have fun and enjoy it!
Really? That long? He must be something special! I also appreciate any usage of the word "Huzzah", 50 internet rad points for you!
This isn't really funny but I've spent so much time here
Here's a much needed item if I were to win: Brush cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
This is the product to which he refers; it's very good. It's a kind of soap for brushes and it's very cheap.
Also, you probably shouldn't be using such nice brushes for things like washes and filters; some golden talkon brushes are cheap and will serve well in that department.
Save the sable for very fine detail painting and the like, which is kind of what they're better at anyway.
Get some Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver. Use it to wash the brush, then use some to form a tip before storage. Works really well.
I use Cinema Secrets for my brushes, and this paintbrush soap for sponges and deep cleanings https://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474259623&sr=8-2&keywords=brush+soap
They sell that soap at Michael's, too, and there's always coupons available. There's a nice lemony smell, as well
If you can get this stuff your brushes will last a long time and you'll probably never run out of cleaner - link
Eh, I'm kinda lazy and don't wash all my brushes every time but I try to wash the high-use ones semi regularly. I usually wash two or three at a time when I'm doing my skincare and waiting for actives (acids, enzymes) to work. Depending on the type of product, that could be 8 to 20 mins.
Based on a recommendation on MuA a long time ago, I use a [solid brush soap] (https://smile.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539062737&sr=8-2&keywords=masters+brush+soap) and a [silicone half-egg] (http://musicalhouses.blogspot.com/2015/04/brush-egg-dupe-for-2-daiso-egg-laundry.html) thing I got from Daiso. I fill the soap's cap with water, press my brush in the water to wet it, swirl it around in the soap, and then swirl it around on the egg. Rinse and repeat until there is no more colour in the soap lather and the brush is clean. I find that bushes used with liquid / cream products take a few times to get properly clean while brushes used with powder products are clean after 2 passes, at the most. It's just the nature of the beast, especially if it's a lot of long-wearing, heavy coverage stuff.
After that, I gently press the excess water out, shape the brush head, and leave the brush on a shelf (with the bristles sticking out over the edge) to dry.
Congratulations on making the BIG MONEY!!! Seriously, is everyone in the office bowing down and singing your praises?
If I were to win your raffle, I would like this for cleaning brushes and this for cleaning mah fayce! Thank you so much for hosting!
Yes, yours is a better deal, the exact one I got was this listing. The packaging on the one you found reads more or less identical minus a website so I imagine it might be from older supply explaining the lower prices for volume.
Brush soap will help keep your brushes going longer. Working a wet brush across the cake then swirling the lathered bristles against the palm of your hand breaks up any paint in the belly of the brush or that has dried on the bristles. Rinse, add a little more soap, then shape the clean brush to a point and let it dry. Used at the end of your painting session, it'll extend the life of your brushes by months or even years. I swear by The Master's Brush Cleaner.
Varnish protects the paint job, reducing chipping and wear. PVC figures actually hold up pretty well without it, but I recommend using it anyway to get the most mileage possible out of your figures. It comes in gloss, satin, and matte. Matte is my preference because it doesn't interfere with the shadows and highlights as much as a shinier option.
I dont mean this to sound bad but are you mixing the paints with your series 7? I personally use junk brushes to mix colors, than use the series 7 to paint.
Other than that I dont usually have a problem and once a week I hand wash my brushes in Brush cleaner
http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM
One last thing, and its a bit gross =P But I am practicing 2 brush blending while I learn how to paint and the tip they all say to use is to suck on your brush tips and use your saliva to help move the paint. I also wonder if this doesnt help keep the paint out of the ferrule. Again, it sounds awful and gross but I think it works (and its not that bad). Just brush your teeth before you do it =D
So Windsor Newton series 7 are beautiful and super long lasting if well treated.
Even just one size 1 is better than a bunch of varied cheaper brushes as they keep their point.
Also Masters brush cleaners is miraculous. De gunks gunk you didn't even know was gunking :)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/General-Pencil-Masters-Cleaner-Preserver-1oz/dp/B001TNR7VM/
I'm also not dressing up this halloween, but I am going to be doing my sister's zombie makeup for her choir concert! I'm going to be taking major tips from that one zombie look in /r/makeupaddiction from /u/sssamanthaa. Here's to hoping that it'll be spooky scary!
Would really like to get this. It's cheaper, and shipping is free from -Supermart.
Definitely not a cheap alternative, but for a long lasting and high quality alternative I would always recommend Winsor & Newton Series 7 brushes. The size 1 is a good all rounder, and the brush I use the most. It strikes a good balance of being thin enough to do details, but large enough so the paint doesn't dry out on the tip straight away.
 
You could likely do everything you want to do with just a size 1 W&N brush, and one other cheaper, bigger brush for basing (for example the citadel large base brush).
 
Raphael also make good brushes, but I find the belly of the bristles to be a bit too fat for my liking.
 
If you are going to buy a more expensive brush, I also recommend picking up some brush cleaner. It really helps to extend the life of your brushes.
No problem I'm always happy to help people with their hobby.
I'd actually recommend getting some miniatures and paints first. The hobby really is about the models and the spectacle, if you don't enjoy them as objects you probably won't enjoy the rest. Pick the models you like the most and go from there. Also literally a table cloth with some boxes on is enough to have a go at most game systems, so I wouldn't worry too much about terrain for the time being.
In terms of game system it sounds like http://www.boltaction.com/ might be the ideal game for you, it's pretty easy to pick up, well supported by warlord games (they do global campaigns for it which is very cool), you don't need a ton of models and it's very fun and popular. I'd pick up maybe a box of infantry (or a starter army if you're willing to make the investment) and the rule book (warlord books are beautiful). I'd also recommend r/boltaction, it might be worth posting a question there. Warlord games also has their own forum http://www.warlordgames.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=48&sid=88c53ccceabba7211bf08b6ef18c67a6 where you can ask questions, a good place for beginners. Also use youtube, it's become an excellent resource for wargamers, you'll be able to find introductory videos, battle reports and all sorts.
I wouldn't buy that paint set, paint's are expensive and they rack up pretty fast, I'd buy the paints you need for the models you have. Get vallejo paints, they tend to be the best for historicals. After you've decided what models you want to buy I'd post a question there asking exactly which paints to get to paint them 'correctly'. Some historical gamers are very finnicky about uniforms being perfect, I'm not one of them, but it is nice to be broadly accurate. If you want to be perfect check out https://ospreypublishing.com/store/military-history/series-books/men-at-arms these books are like the painting guides for historical models. Many are even designed based on their art.
Brushes; this is an area that I believe it is worth spending a bit more money, good brushes will last (provided you maintain them) and will improve your painting experience enormously. Although I occasionally paint commissions so my perspective is a little different. I'd recommend Windsor Newton Series 7 brushes (better for detail) or Raphael Kolinsky brushes (better for blending, harder to get though). To start with just get one for normal painting (windsor newton size 0), and one for fine detail (windsor newton size 0 or 00) should do. I'd strongly recommend getting http://www.amazon.com/General-Pencil-Company-Masters-Preserver/dp/B001TNR7VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450981902&sr=8-2&keywords=masters+brush+soap to keep your brushes clean and to help maintain their point. These are natural fibre brushes so after cleaning it's a good idea just to dip them in some hair conditioner so prevent them drying out too much, then rinse them clean. I use this stuff http://www.dickblick.com/products/weber-turpenoid-natural/ The beginner synthetic brushes most people use are frankly a waste of money. The best tip I can give you regarding painting though is to always thin your paints, either with water or Vallejo Glaze Medium. Also don't forget to spray prime your models, citadel or army painter sprays are good for this, most people use black. Look up zenithal priming if you want to get fancy.
Terrain's broadly split into 2 categories, static terrain, and moveable terrain. Static terrain is usually what you'll see in magazines, dioramas in museums etc. An entirely modelled board. When done well it looks incredible, the pinnacle of the hobby. http://miniscaping.com/miniscape/preview/248#active-gallery one of my favourites, the British siege of Badajoz in 1812 during the Peninsular Campaign. http://www.matakishi.com/TH%20table%202%20600.jpg a medieval conflict.
The only problem is when it's your table and you play most of your games on it, playing in the identical village/farmstead can get a bit dull. Also storing static terrain tends to be really hard. So we move onto moveable or modular terrain, which what most people use and I'd definitely recommend. This consists of having buildings, forest etc on bases that you can move around to mix up your games. It's also very cheap generally, e.g. take a beard trimmer to a doormat, and voila, you now have a ploughed field, spray/dye some towelling material green and you have great looking grass. An example http://imgur.com/a/EGvpK
I still use pasting tables as my table, they are 6ft x 2ft, fold away and are very cheap, I'm not sure what they're called in the us but this is what I mean: http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/hardboard-top-folding-pasting-table---1780-x-560-x-740mm-027611
Get 2 of those. Then place 3 4x2 plywood sheets on them, cloth on top of that, and there you have a cheap, good 6x4 starter table that is fast to set up and put away. Then populate it with terrain, model railway terrain is great for things like trees and much cheaper than specialist wargame terrain. You can always upgrade to more complex modular boards later using the plywood you bought.
Anyway sorry if that was a bit in depth, hope it was useful.
To recap:
P.S. beer and wargaming are a good combination.
P.P.S. look for wargaming clubs in your area, there are a lot more than you may think, and are great places to meet other gamers, try different systems and get advice.
Highly recommend getting this to get started: Reaper Bones Learn to Paint Kit
Also, if you want to make your life a little easier, consider making or buying a wet palette, a nice Sable brush, and definitely some Master's Brush Cleaner.
---
If you're just painting the one mini, you can get Reaper paints and use their online tool to decide which colors to get.
'The Masters' Brush Cleaner. It's sold on amazon for $5.19 the smallest size.
This stuff gets it clean like BRAND NEW.
As a starting point you should probably look into natural Sable Brushes, size 2 for basecoating and 0 or 0/2 for finer detailing. Make sure it has a good point. I am currently using these, the regiment brush is quite good.
Some mini painters will quickly mention Newton and Winsor 7 series brushes or Raphael Kolinsky sable brushes, which are more expensive, but I cannot confirm that, I have not tried Kolinsky sable brushes. Be sure to buy a nice brush cleaner to preserve your natural hair brushes.
Here is a nice unbiased information (mini painters tend to be fanboys on certain brands of paints and brushes) about brushes or this one by one of the best mini painters around, one of the comments mentions Toray brushes which are often used by minipainters
EDIT: Added the APJ link
Its been mentioned before, but I also second the suggestion of the Windsor & Newton series 7 brushes. Get him a 1 point or a 3 point.
Also there is this cheap but extremely effective brush cleaner that can help repair old brushes and maintain new ones
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TNR7VM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm in Canada too and I just got into painting with the Reaper Bones kickstarter. Sorry in advance if this post sounds like a shill for Reaper stuff.
The Reaper online store has free shipping to Canada for orders over $35. Their prices are pretty reasonable, but they're in USD, so you'll suffer from the current crappy exchange rate.
They have a Learn to paint kit for $35 with 2 brushes and a small variety of paints which seems like a decent value.
Depending on what size brushes are in that kit, you might want to get a larger flat brush for base coats or a size 10/0 "super detail" brush. You can get brushes from Reaper or at a Michaels. I also grabbed a cheap pack of Mod Podge brushes that I don't care about wrecking.
Bones don't need priming, so I have no advice there.
I got this brush cleaner, I don't know if it's a good deal or not.
You can buy a paint palette, but you can also just use a plastic lid to get started, or make a wet palette -- easy and prevents your paints from drying out.
If there's a Games Workshop near you, you can get Citadel paints there. I ended up buying a couple of metallics and a brown wash. They come in pots, which aren't as convenient as dropper bottles.
Here are a couple of videos that helped me get started:
Also, like everyone else has said, check in at your local gaming/hobby shop :)
> No matter how much I rinse it out it always seems to still have paint particulates in the bristles
You need to keep rinsing until the water comes off clean. It can seem to take forever - I have the same sort of experience with my fountain pens. But if you want to keep them in the best shape, you need to persist. Flow release added to your rinse water can help the paint come off more easily.
It's not necessarily preferable to keep your brush from touching the bottom of your rinse vessel, as long as you don't grind the bristles against it. There are actually plenty of purpose built products (like this one) that include some raised texture on the bottom of the vessel to give you something to brush against without dragging it in the discarded paint. It can help get the stubborn pigment out, just be gentle.
Make sure you're not storing them resting on their bristles, or leaving them in the rinse cup that way. Though hanging point down by the handle would be good.
Note: This is all from experience with painting things other than Gunpla using acrylic paint. Gunpla may be different, but I really don't see how.
Something I learned when I started painting RPG minis is that it's a good thing to splurge a bit on brushes if you're planning on doing a lot of painting. A high quality 0 brush can give better precision and thinner lines than a cheap 10/0. By buying good brushes I reduced my number of brushes used to 3 - a 00 for detail work, a 1 for coverage, and a cheap brush for drybrushing. And that's for painting little 28mm tall minis.
I recommend the Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes, if you're wanting to give them a try. You can find them online pretty easily, and if you catch them at certain stores you might be able to grab them for about $10 a brush instead of the retail $20+. Just be aware that they're natural fiber brushes, so they'll both hold paint differently(meaning more) and require a bit more care when cleaning to keep them in good shape. You'll want something like The Masters brush cleaner to keep them clean without damaging the fibers, and it can be left in to act as a conditioner as well.