Best camera accessories according to redditors

We found 13,509 Reddit comments discussing the best camera accessories. We ranked the 4,614 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Camera & photo cleaners
Camera & photo blank media
Camera & photo filters
Digital camera accessories
Camera lens accessories
Binocular accessories
Camera rain covers
Camera flash accessories
Tripod accessories
Camera & camcorder batteries & chargers
Camera & camcorder viewfinders
Camera & camcorder remote controls
Camera cables & cords
Electronics > Camera & Photo > Accessories > Digital Picture Frame Screen Protector Foils
Telescope & microscope accessories
Camera accessory bundles

Top Reddit comments about Camera & Photo Accessories:

u/badon_ · 46 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

> This is for a simple analog wall clock, so I’ll go out and get AAs once it starts to get out of time.

Get rechargeable AA batteries next time. I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

u/Gundersniff · 45 pointsr/xboxone

Get Eneloops, they're the best.

u/gabedamien · 36 pointsr/SWORDS

Hi there. This is a genuine antique Japanese sword. Specifically, it's a [hira-zukuri](#t "flat cross section") [wakizashi](#t "short sword"). Please read my owner's guide for details on care, photography, appraisal and restoration. In particular, we will need more (and specific) photos of the blade. Mounts and blades are related but separate topics.

The fittings are typical middling-level Edo period (1603-1868) work; the [fuchi](#t "reinforcing metal collar on the hilt") and [kashira](#t "metal cap on the end of the hilt") done in [shakudo](#t "a black alloy of copper and gold") [nanako](#t "lit. fish roe, many small dots hand-punched") have suffered some white/green corrosion suggesting this piece has been stored in a wet environment (garage?). The [menuki](#t "palm ornaments") are interesting, a gold basket and something else in shakudo? I can't quite see (also you've shown them upside-down). Again a bit of corrosion in the shakudo. The [tsuba](#t "hand guard") looks to be an iron example — as is common — with a pictorial scene; I am not an expert in iron tsuba, so you may want to post in the tosogu forum of the Nihonto Message Board for an assessment of which school/tradition this piece would fall into. Finally, the [habaki](#t "metal reinforcing wedge that marries the blade to the scabbard") looks to be two-piece silver, usually these are silver jacket over copper but we can't see based on these photos. [Saya](#t "scabbard") is a typical black lacquered piece, totally standard.

As to the blade: please read the guide I linked above and get us the photos listed therein, especially of the tang. The patina on the tang, file marks, shape, peg holes, everything tells a story — and with any luck, there'll be a signature we can cross-reference against records. Oh, and please carefully wipe down the blade with a microfiber cloth, e.g. camera cloth to clean off any smudges and the like so we get the best results from the pics. But don't do anything to harm the existing polish! Simply wiping with a dry microfiber cloth is sufficient.

However, even without that, I can tell you a couple things. Unless I'm mistaking smudges or oil or something for hamon, the thing that immediately stands out is the wandering, randomized, patchy splashes of [hamon](#t "martensitic white edge steel from differential quenching") in the pattern known as hitatsura. That pattern is classically associated with the Soshu (Sagami province) school of classical smithing, one of the five major categorizations of Japanese smithing traditions. Also, a broad (profile) but thin (cross-section) hira-zukuri wakizashi is typical of this school. They tended to do a higher-temperature heat treatment resulting in the formation of nie, coarse visible martensitic particles which form various aggregate structures and effects in the steel. Done well, it's very prized and beautiful; done poorly, it's seen as a bit uncontrolled. The difference is subtle and I wouldn't venture a final guess on quality from just these photos, but it looks decent if not exactly masterful.

My gut feeling right now is that we are looking at a sue-Soshu (late Soshu) piece, 1500s or later, by one of the Tsunahiro 綱廣 line. They are decent swords but most of the later generations are not masterpieces or exceptionally valuable. You can see some representative examples, some in hitatsura, here / here / here and here. This is a significant guess on my part, I practice kantei (a "blind" appraisal game) but am not exactly a master at it. I'm more thinking out loud than making an actual appraisal right now. Let's get that hilt off and see the tang!

u/termderd · 34 pointsr/spacex

Thanks for this video! Glad I could hear this with out having been there. A few production notes:

Please do some establishing shots before or after the interview, don't get all ADD on us and start zooming in on the Water Suppression tower and the Processing Building.

Make sure she's in focus... for a majority of the video, the background was in focus.

Clean your lens! Low contrast areas where there was dirt or water was extremely evident.

A small shotgun mic would go a long ways to help distracting audio from getting in the way. Something lightweight and inexpensive like this

Try J cuts for your audio if you do transitions/edits. The abrupt audio and rapid, random cuts were distracting. Either play the whole thing front to back, un interrupted, or make tasteful edits. No point in just cutting to cut. Always record the full event, beginning to end, never start and stop while recording as you can always take stuff out in post.

The text at the beginning should be simple, lower thirds, and un-distracting. Throwing it up there all willy nilly does no one a favor.

Again, I'm not ungrateful here, just trying to give you some tips to up your production value. You've already done 90% of the work by being there with gear on hand, let's help you take it up a notch so it can be more enjoyable for us to watch! Thanks for your time and effort, let me know if you have any questions about production notes in the future. I'm sure I'll run into you at OG2 :)

u/zegolf · 20 pointsr/photography

Pick up a pack or two of these and keep them in your bag. They're really easy to get on and off, and will protect your rig in the event that a small drizzle turns into an all-out rain storm. I keep some with me, and I'm glad I did last Spring when a random snowstorm interrupted a Baseball Game I was shooting.

I was frozen, but my gear stayed dry!

u/VeronicaKell · 20 pointsr/buildapc

Game Pad Keyboard

Red Swing Line Stapler There's a newer version as well.

Cleaning Cloth for monitors and glasses

Speakers Get any kind really. This is what I have and they are good for the money.

Timer - for when you tell your SO you will do something or to remember the roast in the oven.

Extra Monitor. Already have one? Add another!

Still have money left over? Try these sites:

Think Geek

Dude I Want That

u/PhillipMB · 20 pointsr/malefashionadvice

Everyone is recommending something cheap like a blue yeti or whatever, and honestly those mics are highly overrated. Get literally anything by Shure, Sennheiser, or Rode.

Here's a very popular one.

u/rapidliquid · 18 pointsr/gusjohnson

In his how to be a good YouTuber video he mentioned that he gets them for about $19 and that it usually has a clip (he broke the one on his), so it is probably this or something similar.

u/Daehder · 17 pointsr/Nerf

Assuming you are referring to 9V batteries like these, that will actually be a downgrade from normal AA cells, as 9 V batteries are actually a 6 pack of AAAA batteries.

While the voltage sound like it would be higher, AAAA are even worse than AA cells at delivering current, which is what is responsible for spinning motors up to speed. Thus, the motors will spin up even slower, and the voltage will sag massively.


If you intend to run that extra foot of Faux barrel, you'll pretty much need to rewire for a lipo or NiMH pack to get any reasonable performance.

If you are just looking for a no-effort mod, Eneloops are the safest way to do so. Their much higher current capabilities mean that they'll outperform even D alkaline cells, which are what Hasbro use to power their more powerful blasters, and they're pretty inexpensive to boot

u/steelandwine · 16 pointsr/spaceporn
u/Frohheim · 16 pointsr/Ice_Poseidon

Going to repeat my suggested setup in this thread.


Samsung Galaxy S8 - its just hands down the best video and streaming phone out there atm. Not the S8+ - bigger screen - more heavy - less battery life.

A Samsung Protective Case with a lens kit. The benefit is, when needed, you can attach a wide angle lens to capture bigger groups and environments. For a IRL stream a good thing.

DJI Omni Mobile Gimbal - offers the benefits of enhanced controls and a stable picture during walking and stuff.

RØDE VideoMic Me+Windshield - An external microphone that would enhance the audio depending on where you are pointing it too, as it is a directional mic.

A pack of fast charging, low cost battery packs to power the equipment during the day with a backup for loading during while the others are being used. Depending on usage between 4-8.

A pair of 90° degree flat usb-c cables. You want that cause using the gimbal, you wanna make sure the phone is as centered as possible and a bunch of those custom made cables assures that. Shouldn't be too hard to find a cable guy to set that up, as the items are purchasable on alibaba.

You can see the gimbal in action under the following link:
Note: It is an S8+ - performance of the gimbal will be better with the smaller S8!

Rode Microphone Soundcheck outside:

S7 Lens video(s8 is ~the same):

PowerPack review:

I hope that offers some ideas how the setup could look like without having to carry around a backpack with a car sized battery and a gazillion of wires.

u/zack1661 · 16 pointsr/tacticalgear

Man, I understand when making YouTube videos is a hobby and people don’t want to invest a lot of money into it, but having bad audio ruins a video for me. It sounds like you’re really far away from the mic, then you get closer and it’s loud. Then there’s a hum/whine going the whole time. Lapel microphones are cheap and they improve audio consistency and quality while not being too inconvenient. Here’s one that seems to have pretty good reviews for a little more than $20. I know it seems knit picky to get stuck on this but to me the difference in quality of audio is what separates high end channels with a lot of production value from someone who just films something and uploads it.

u/[deleted] · 14 pointsr/photography

OP/Tech rainsleeve would be perfect. Got to be careful with the front of the lens though. UV filter and tape + lens hood comes to mind.

u/NunsOnFire · 14 pointsr/xboxone

If cats are a hazard to charging wires, I suggest luring them into a room in the house that no one will use for a short while (cat food and their favorite toys usually does the trick. they'll be a little skeptical at first but they'll nestle in to the strange room quickly), lock them in the door ensuring that the cats have no exits at all in there, even emergency exits, step 5: turn on the carbon monoxide displacer you installed earlier and routed to that room in specific (it is the silent killer after all or whatever), finally explain to everyone the tragedy of finding your cats dead on the floor, maybe even include a bloody knife into the equation suggesting gang-related cat on cat violence (you're lying at this point; it was you who killed them). With them gone you can now safely own a charging dock for your Xbox One controllers. You can even get two.

If that's too complicated them I would suggest looking into rechargeable batteries with their own separate charger for the wall outlet, no wires at all here.

This product is a favorite of the subreddit.

u/SwampYankee · 13 pointsr/photography

You never really know until it's too late. I would not push a non weather proofed one too far. 5DIII has taking a strong rain and worked out, but I had a weather sealed lens on it. either way it's not covered under warranty. I've heard of someone washing salt water off a Canon 1DX with a hose but I don't think I'd try that. You really want to be able to take your camera out in bad weather so why not fill out your next amazon order with a couple of these?:

u/moocat · 13 pointsr/photography

Either he has a mount adapter or he's confused.

u/nanan00 · 13 pointsr/gaming
u/StarrFall · 12 pointsr/PSVR
u/jaysanw · 12 pointsr/photography

Second u/TwiztedZero: Zeiss disposable pre-moistened wipes (i.e. the same ones used for cleaning eyeglass lenses) are great for general purpose maintenance upkeep:

If you use a cloth, go microfiber (i.e. never anything paper that sheds fibers):

u/concord72 · 12 pointsr/xboxone

Get this Eneloop kit instead, so much better and more versatile.

u/k701 · 11 pointsr/oculus

Today my second mounting clamp and rod came in. After trying several heights and angles, and testing with the desk demo I found that tracking was perfect from top to bottom except when facing the very edge of my bottom left room corner while my hands are in front of me. In which case my body completely covers my motion controllers and a third camera would still not be able to help since my room is too small /cluttered to cover that specific angle. The biggest thing that helped was NOT mounting the cameras as high as possible, as it is suggested by some users. The higher they are, the farther away they are, and being cameras and limited by resolution, being too far away (too high) results in jitter/unstable tracking. I ended up mounting them at about 7 feet high. I suggest a rod/clamp solution as it allows you to quickly test and make small adjustments, and using this setup allows you to move the cameras in every way possible (6 degrees of freedom). Here is the exact rod and clamp I'm using for those interested. Obviously any similar rod/clamp will work.

u/Palidore · 11 pointsr/oculus

Eneloops are where its at. Definitely recommend the ones I linked instead of the higher-capacity ones which squeeze out a little more juice per charge, but has far less charge cycles (500 vs 2100). This version includes a charger, if you're in need of one.

Also note that each Touch controller only uses a single AA battery.

u/apawst8 · 11 pointsr/SquaredCircle

I don't know exactly what model of rig they are using. This one is similar. But there are a bunch out there if you search iPhone rig.

The mic looks like a Rode video micro.

The light could have been anything. If you Amazon search for LED on camera light, you'll see a lot of similar setups.

u/mennydrives · 10 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It's two parts:

u/HybridCamRev · 10 pointsr/videography

/u/Jameson2912 - with a $300 budget, you can get decent camera support, a low light lens and an external mic.

If you can stretch your budget by $19, I recommend a [$179.99 Panasonic 25mm f1.7] (, a [$59 Rode VideoMicro] ( and a [$79.95 3Pod V3AH Tripod with Fluid Head, Quick-Release Plate and a 65mm bowl] (

This will give you a steady platform with smooth pans and tilts, improve the camera's low light performance and improve your audio quality (as seen [here] (

You might also want to subscribe over at /r/PanasonicG7 - lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.

Hope this is helpful, good luck with your new camera and best of the holidays to you and yours!

u/ForgottenYogurt · 9 pointsr/flashlight

SMALLRIG Cool Ballhead Arm Super Clamp Mount Multi-Function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp for Ronin-M, Ronin MX, Freefly MOVI - 1138

u/Pyroraptor · 9 pointsr/letsplay

What you are looking for is a lavalier mic (also called a lapel mic). They come in several different varieties. Do you want one that is wireless or one that is wired? The wireless ones are nice if you are moving around a lot or doing commentary away from your desk. The wired ones are nice because they don't require a battery pack and you never lose signal (not really an issue anymore). Tehre are also some that are made to plug into your cell phone so that you can record onto your phone.

For the best quality of wired lavs I would go with an XLR setup. You will have to spring for a mixing board or an audio interface, but you will get better sound quality and the ability to adjust your sound on the hardware. I suggest the Audio Technica Pro70 or the Shure SM93. You will also need to add a board to that as well.

If you go wireless you'll probably be paying much more than $200 for a decent lav mic. Probably $300-600 just for the mic and receiver. You'll also need a mixing board or audio interface on top of that.

There are also some budget options, like the Rode SmartLav+ which is pretty good for the price and you can record off of your phone or the 3.5mm input on your computer. You won't get as good of audio or the adjustment as an XLR setup.

There are also products like the invisilav that allow you to wear the mic underneath your clothing to hide it. I would definitely do some research on how to wear a lavalier mic to get the best sound. They can be pretty tricky sometimes because they can rub against your shirt/jacket or the cord can rub and make sound. Best of luck!

u/elkemist · 9 pointsr/xboxone

I used the energizer one for a while and it was ok, then I bought some Panasonic Eneloops and I'm never going back. They can be used for other devices as well and they last forever.

edit: Panasonic Eneloops These are the ones I have.

u/Gilzabizlo · 9 pointsr/xboxone

Buy this.
Eneloops - Amazon

Thank me later.

u/vgf89 · 9 pointsr/oculus

You can get the exact same charger with a 4 included eneloops for cheaper than the charger alone:

u/YoderinLanc · 8 pointsr/Cleveland

> I screwed up the settings by accident, but it's not that bad.

Here's an honest critique, not to be mean, but you seem to have an interest in taking good photos. I started on a Canon 60D, which shares the same image sensor as the T4i. All of my images of Cleveland were shot with that camera.

This picture has two/three things technically wrong with it; focus, blur, and grain. You can solve all three of those issues by shooting on a tripod.

Shooting on a tripod will allow you to take longer exposure than if you were shooting handheld (because it doesn't move). Because you can shoot longer, you can also stop your aperture down a bit. Most lenses are sharper when the aperture is slightly closed a bit (around f/5.6 - f/8, but vary's depending on lens). You will also be able to lower your iso, which will help avoid noise/grain issues.

Also, when shooting longer exposures, its best to avoid any camera movement or interaction at all. You can buy a "remote shutter release" to avoid touching the shutter button. Also, use "mirror lockup", to avoid movement from the mirror swinging when a picture is taken.

I encourage you to read how to take clear nighttime image, find a solid tripod, and attempt to retake the picture. Part of the fun of photography is growing in your skill and this is a great opportunity to do so.

u/LiarCityBrian · 8 pointsr/PanasonicG7

I'm gonna offer my two cents here, I hope this helps:

Here is pretty much exactly what I would buy with that amount of money:

  1. G7 with 14-42 Kit Lens - 497 on Adorama w/ a $50 gift card. here.

  2. use that $50 to get yourself a couple of 64GB Transcend Class 10 SD Cards. here.

  3. For a tripod, this Amazon Basics fluid head is a great value at $65, but frequently goes on sale for $35-$45. here.

  4. Low light on the kit lens sucks, you can solve that by grabbing some FD lenses on eBay. I'd go for 50mm 1.4 and 28mm 2.8 as a start. Each can be had for ~$50.

  5. To use those lenses on your G7, you'll need a simple, cheap adapter. Find that here.

  6. For audio, you can get surprisingly good sound out of this cheap, cold shoe mountable shotgun right here.

    I believe that totals a little less than $700 for an enviable amount of non garbage, budget friendly equipment. You can even add some lighting and still stay under that bundle price.
u/Eldrake · 8 pointsr/Vive
u/Virisenox_ · 8 pointsr/flashlight

Budget option: ThruNite T10: $20, 210 lumens (neutral white)

High durability options: Any of these (Not to say the other ones can't take a beating)

High end option: ZebraLight SC5c: $70, 4000K, 475 lumens, >90 CRI

Buy some Eneloops. They perform better, they won't leak and corrode your lights, and they'll save you money in the long run.

u/Corm · 8 pointsr/WindowsMR

I recommend this one at $18 because the it's an individual charger, and in my experience the batteries last for years.

This one is more popular and good too, but I replaced it with the other one because my batteries weren't lasting as long as they should (1 year instead of several), and I suspected it was overcharging them a bit. But it's $20 so who cares.

u/ifandbut · 7 pointsr/Games

>The sensor boxes had to be plugged into outlets and you needed to mount them high-up in the corners of your room. The criticisms were valid, when setting up hardware requires power tools something is probably amiss.

No power tools required. Just some shower curtain rods and some quick release pipe clamps for cameras. Yes, more money, but provides a mobile setup (or just an adjustable setup) and you dont have to put holes in your walls (something apartments frown on).

u/SolarMechanic · 7 pointsr/ManyATrueNerd

Here's how to solve your audio problems.

You'll need to pic up a Lav Mic and a portable audio recorder. I'd recommend a Rhode Smartlav and a Zoom H2

The mic clips onto your shirt and plugs into the recorder. You set your recording levels and other settings like sample rate and bitrate (may take some experimenting to find your ideal setup), hit record, slip the recorder in your pocket and do your thing.

Afterwards you should have a decent quality sound file you can drop into your video editor and sync up with your footage.

One note is that it's easiest to sync up the audio track to the footage by having another microphone in the room recording you just like you did in this video, but make sure it's recording to a separate audio layer than the game audio so you can delete it and be left with just the game audio and the Lav track.

u/FormallyMelC · 7 pointsr/weddingplanning

Depending on how long your ceremony is your camera settings might be capped to stop recording at 30 minutes so if you don’t have someone watching it then it might not record the whole thing. Also, the sound will probably be pretty crappy so I’d recommend getting one of these and having your officiant or FH wear it:

I don’t have much of an opinion on it it’s rude or not to ask a friend to record it, but it is a lot of pressure to put on someone!

u/Didub · 7 pointsr/gameofthrones

Short answer: Yes, it will sound awful.

I am a professional videographer, so I may not know the most cutting-edge Hollywood techniques, but at the level I work at I would never try that. Better to find a workaround to not need the audio. If you want to get serious, here's a decent option for $100. If you've got $500, you can get a Tascam DR40 and a Rode NTG2 and it will give you fantastic audio that's very adaptable to difficult locations (although not anything as windy as the OC)

u/parametrek · 7 pointsr/flashlight

The Thrunite Archer 1A is $30 and pretty compact. These batteries should last you a lifetime.

u/CODMuffinMan · 7 pointsr/consoledeals

I'd recommend these instead, I've had them for around 8 months now and they're really good. A lot better than going through a 48 pack of duracells every month or two

u/Moonlord_ · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Any charger intended for NiMh batteries will work but it's worth the investment to get a decent smart charger. You'll get longer life and fuller charges out of your batteries. They can also give you info for matching battery pairs effectively, bringing weak batteries back to life, and determine when a battery is getting weaker.
Also stay away from "rapid chargers" that charge in an hour or less...they are horrible for your batteries and will kill them off quickly.

I recommend something like the Maha Powerex Wizard One charger which you can find on Amazon, etc. At the minimum the new Panasonic chargers that come with the newest Eneloop models are pretty decent for a pack-in smart charger. They have 4 individual charging circuits, peak detection when the battery is full, and charge at a gentle rate.

u/shmmrname · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Here's my little bits of advice:

Games with Gold: If you have an XBL gold membership, please 'buy' ( the free games on both systems, even if you don't currently have one of them. If you don't have an XB1 yet, you're essentially just building a bigger potential library if you get the console in the future. If you're on XB1, you're creating a larger backwards compatible library.

Accessories: Add storage via nearly any USB 3.0 external hd (there's millions of suggestions for specific models via a search of this subreddit). I suggest Eneloops over the play-n-charge kit. XBL gold membership is roughly $35/year frequently, never pay full price and keep in mind it's "stack-able". Install SmartGlass on your mobile devices. Install the Xbox app on your Windows 10 devices.

Games/Values: If you're interested in any EA game, give EA Access a look ($30/year). Bing Rewards is a nice way to pad your digital wallet. Value-based subreddits I'd suggest: /r/GameDeals, /r/GreatXboxDeals and /r/ConsoleDeals. Weekly sales threads tend to pop up on /r/XboxOne before they're published, and if you want to see all current discounts check out storeparser.

Game Recommendations:
SMITE is a free-to-play moba that's become a go-to game for me a few times each week. It's easy to learn, but there's depth to keep you learning new strategies/skills even months after you've started. I really can't believe how much I like this game. I think everyone should at least try it.
Rise of the Tomb Raider is gorgeous, and it improves upon nearly everything the original reboot (already a good game) attempted. I love the game.
Sunset Overdrive is fun from start-to-finish, and it's one of the most unique games I've played. The art style is infectious, and I loved the game more each time I played it. However, I didn't particularly appreciate much of the multiplayer.
LEGO Marvel Super Heroes is a step above the other LEGO games, and it's an absolute hit for co-op sessions. Similarly, Diablo 3 excels at co-op, even if it's something that doesn't seem like a typical title for your group.
There's many others I'd recommend, but I'm sticking to the top-most I'd recommend to any new Xbox One owners. There's a ton of opinions you can find on this subreddit if you're interested in any game. Also, if you're not sure about something: look for Twitch streams or YouTube videos before you take the plunge.

Always check out Friend Request Friday to find people you can play with. I love podcasts, here are my recommended podcasts. I use Feedrabbit to get e-mailed updates from Major Nelson.

Finally, I recommend helping out when you can by visiting the Mentor Monday threads. It's a very easy way to help, and (in my opinion) it's one of the best threads each week in this subreddit.

u/smelltheglove-11 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Got mine a few weeks ago and I love them. Only 16.99 on Amazon, comes with 4 batteries and the charger.

u/Brusanan · 6 pointsr/OculusQuest

Yeah, that is a bit disappointing. PSVR comes with a lens cloth. Fortunately I ordered a bunch back in January to go with my existing VR headsets.


These are high quality and pretty cheap:

u/mbosecke · 6 pointsr/gopro

The biggest thing I recommend is having extra batteries for the camera. I bought a pack of 2 wasabi batteries that proved to be invaluable.

u/vexstream · 6 pointsr/Vive

Another thing that works extremely well are contractor poles/floor to ceiling poles. Harbor freight has these for 15$, you add in these and you have a very good semiperminant mounting solution.

u/TranceDoctor · 6 pointsr/xboxone

You're honestly better off buying the new one because then you know you'll always own the games and you get a brand new warranty. You also get 500gb more space.

I bought this to use as my batteries and it's great.

u/Paladin- · 6 pointsr/ghostbusters

The Spongeface kits are awesome, and require very little modification on the pack itself, have fun with it and take your time!
As for the battery you want something along the lines of this:
And some Barrel plugs to wire it with like these:

Also definitely check out! The forums are a really handy place to find info and parts of all kinds for Ghostbusters props of all types.

u/skaven81 · 6 pointsr/telescopes

Aside from the lead-acid battery (which I think is fine, just heavy), there is a pretty long list of crappiness:

  • Made in China with the absolute cheapest components you can imagine. The circuit boards inside are thin, single-sided, and appear to have been assembled by chimpanzees.
  • The multi-voltage outputs aren't regulated. It's literally a resistor network providing the different voltages. Good luck actually getting the stated 1A out of each of them. And as the 12V battery voltage gets lower, the 3V, 6V, and 9V outputs drop as well.
  • The charging "circuitry" is completely stupid. The green light that is supposed to tell you that it's charged -- yeah, that's just an R-C circuit with a crazy-high impedance resistor that makes the LED slowly get brighter over about 8-10 hours. It actually has nothing at all to do with the voltage of the battery.
  • The charger outputs 15V, and the charging port is wired directly to the battery, which is why you have to switch the unit to "charge" mode to charge the battery. There is no battery management or charger cut-off, so if you forget to unplug the charger, it will eventually destroy the battery.
  • You can't charge the battery while in use.
  • You can't charge the battery from a standard 12V car plug

    For the money, you're WAY better off buying something like this: -- that will run your mount for the entire night without breaking a sweat (assuming you don't have to run dew heaters or anything), costs 75% less, and is small and light enough that you could actually velcro it right to the mount.
u/Turbopanzer9 · 6 pointsr/porterrobinson

Sorry for the late response!

I bought 40 meters worth of ws2812B LED strips (a type of LED strip that can be programmed). You can get these for pretty cheap of Amazon. Then, I used the adhesive on the back of the LEDs to stick them in these special LED mounting racks that I could mount on to some metal storage shelves.

To interface with the LEDs, I'm using a Pixlite Controller like this one. The cool thing about these controllers is that they can output DMX (DMX is the protocol used to control those big fancy lights you see at concerts) in addition to driving LEDs. Then the programming and sequencing is done in Lightjams. In addition to being the best low budget software for LED pixel programing, Lightjams can also be used to program any DMX fixture.

So I got 5 the cheap DMX moving head lights and controlled them with Lightjams too.

I knew if I wanted to pull of this song, I was going to need lasers, but DMX lasers are stupid expensive. Soooo I had to get a little unconventional. I ordered some sketch cheap Chinese lasers that I wired to a DMX relay. I mounted the lasers to the shelves using camera clamps and controlled them in Lightjams too.

Figuring out how to do all this and building it took me about 6 months. Then, programming took another few months. I am actually working on programing an entire set of songs from the Worlds tour. I am nearly done, and it's about an hour long! I'll be sure to post it here when it's done!

I appreciate the interest, let me know if you want any additional info!

u/xxxJakkxxx · 6 pointsr/guns

I use this mount and this button with mine. It can hook up to spotters scopes and binoculars, though you may want to get a tripod mount for your binoculars if you use them. It's actually called "digiscoping" and you can get adapters for phones and cameras.

u/Schwartz_the_Younger · 6 pointsr/boardgames

Currently I use just my iPhone. But, I’ve saved up some money and recently purchased this lapel mic. It should arrive in the mail this week. 😆

I would also recommend getting some kind of cheap boom arm mic stand to hold the camera. This is what I use. I started off with a small tripod stand, but the boom arm was a massive improvement in camera setups without a huge expense.

Good luck to them!!

u/neuromonkey · 5 pointsr/photography

Yes, absolutely. Twice a year I send my Lens Pen to a lab in New York to have the carbon powder recharged, and my Giotto Rocket Blaster to a place in Texas to have the filter replaced and new vacuum installed. I also have my lens cloths professionally dry cleaned and pressed.

u/beegeetee · 5 pointsr/photography

Not worth the risk. Buy a lens pen and you'll never look back.

Just make sure you buy a brand name and genuine (so, prefer B&H over Amazon).

Edit: Using pressured air may push some of the dust inside the lens or the camera (i.e. onto the mirror).

u/GIS-Rockstar · 5 pointsr/photography

Very specific personal recommendation that worked really well for me. Use it as a baseline, but there are plenty of options so compare this with other alternatives:

  • Canon T6 or Nikon D3400 DSLR. The kit lens is very versatile until you're ready to invest in lens upgrades for specific purposes

  • Tokina 11-16 f/2.8, or maybe a Samyang 14 2.8 for astro. I got the updated 11-20 and frigging love it.

  • 50 mm f/1.8 is most folks' first good lens upgrade. Great for lots of photography and videography styles

  • A nice tripod in the $100-150 range

  • An intervalometer/remote shutter release

    Check Canon's refurbished DSLRs to save some cash. There are usually good deals on those and they're trusted.

    Poke around in Lonely Spec for great put together comparing a ton of lens options.

    This all should put you around the high end of your budget. You can start everything with just the kit lens, and upgrade lenses when you can identify your limitations
u/_MrJones · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

If you're just looking for a timelapse, you can buy an intervalometer off of amazon for pretty cheap for most DSLRs. you may be able to get a cheap dslr for $200 or so with a kit lens off of craigslist, and then buy a decent tripod, intervalometer, and an AC Adapter kit. You could probably get everything for less than $400, easily.

my canon version is this:

u/vankirk · 5 pointsr/astrophotography

A tripod for sure. Also, an intervelometer will open up more possibilities like remote camera operation (fire and forget) and time lapse.

u/crazykoala · 5 pointsr/astrophotography

Wow! You did an excellent job of explaining how DSLR users can easily get into astrophotography. Those are some great example pics too. I like the details like the icons for the equipment needed for subject you are discussing. I agree this should go in the sidebar here.

While following the links you provided I noticed that Gary Seronik, who wrote the howto on the barn door tracker, has posted another simpler design on his blog. I haven't built one yet but it's on the ToDo list.

And wow, that Dark Skies Finder site is amazing. Thanks a bunch for that link. I am thinking of heading to South Dakota to get me some dark skies. Any advice on getting a shot of an aurora? Go further north I suspect.

I'm not sure if you use affiliate links to Amazon but I like that method of supporting a web site. I'm using a $15 knock-off timer/trigger that you might want to link to. It's not fancy but it doesn't need to be.

Also, thanks for posting the Photoshop tutorials in 1080p. Great job. Subscribed!

u/skeeterou · 5 pointsr/gopro

I'd go with the Wasabi ones. I have 3, and they function exactly like the OEM GoPro Battery. Never tried the ones you've linked.

u/Psycrotes · 5 pointsr/gopro

Amazon Link

This one has great reviews, I have been planning on getting it. Comes with 2 batteries and a charger.

u/KDistheman · 5 pointsr/gopro

I have the wasabi batteries, they are fantastic! Also, the charger they come with is really convenient because it will also charge in the car. As far as mounts go, I would recommend the head strap mount or something for your head, your preference of a gopole mount, and maybe a tripod mount and the handlebar mount comes in handy for oars/paddles or a homemade gopole. Also checkout r/goprodiy for some great ideas on the cheap. You can also make a diy chesty with the base the gopro comes attached to.

u/kevinkace · 5 pointsr/skateboarding

I picked up everything off Amazon (other than the camera which I bought 2nd hand off Craigslist):

u/meeksdigital · 5 pointsr/gopro

The Wasabi Power batteries are 1200mah and $24 for two with a wall/12v charger. Just something to think about.

u/ExDe707 · 5 pointsr/VRchat

If you're willing to pump out more money initially and save more in the long run grab a Vive/ Index and mount the basestations on clamp-on camera mounts mounted on support rods. That way you can mount the base stations above your head facing down without compromising your play space unlike tripods.

u/Allistar · 5 pointsr/Austin

Make it up to the Domain. I believe the Microsoft Store has a demo, free of course.

p.s. I have a Vive and it's amazing!

...But keep in mind it's a first generation product with a technical support and customer service group that's new to VR tech and all the nuances that come about with supporting said equipment.

  1. You need a beefy computer (CPU/GPU) to maintain the recommended 90 frames per second, per eye. Get Steam if you don't have it already and download the free Steam VR Performance Test to get a basic idea of how well prepared your computer is for VR.

    The pixel density isn't there yet compared to your traditional iPhone Retina display or other high PPI phone displays (pixels per inch) - so you'll see individual pixels. FOV (Field of View) isn't wide enough to fill your entire peripheral view, think of it more like a pair of goggles (and the circular rectangle view you'd see as a result) into another world.

    A decent sized play area clear of obstacles for roomscale is definitely preferred to be able to support the majority of
    games out there. Minimum size for roomscale is 1.5m x 2m, maximum is 15' (5m) diagonal. You'll also want to securely mount your lighthouse beacons that enable the 2mm or less accuracy of your head mounted display (HMD) and controllers.

    Those that can wallmount, should, as it'll provide the most securely fashioned physical mounting (and thus non-wobbly) tracking. Otherwise tripods or some things like these with two of these will work!

    However, despite me listing all of these caveats (for your benefit, informed decisions are something I always promote and recommend) - it's still amazing technology that gets you absolutely immersed in the video game (and creative, and 3D video and... and...) world that's at YOUR scale and size.

    If you do take up Codeninja's offer, have him get Waltz of the Wizard, too, and try it out. It's awesome and free!
u/XmisterC · 5 pointsr/Vive

Floor to ceiling poles with Clamps is the best solution when you cannot affix to a wall.

I just linked those for an example - you can shop around to find ones to suit your ceiling height and aesthetic needs.


u/Simpanra · 5 pointsr/Vive

I used these poles and these clamps. They are perfect and I haven't had any problems with them at all :)

u/jam6618 · 5 pointsr/videography

For starters, I'd be glad to help you find the right camcorder!

Here is an option:

  1. Camera: Panasonic HC-V770K Full HD Camcorder - A fantastic camcorder for the price, just about the cheapest still with good features. It is pushing the budget a bit but i think it would be worth it. 5-axis image stabilization, 1080p with slow-mo, wide aperture for low light, timelapse mode, and more.

  2. Shotgun Mic: Rode VideoMic GO Lightweight On-Camera Microphone - A good small shotgun mic that does not require a battery (uses very little power from the camera).

  3. SD Card: SanDisk 32GB Ultra Memory Card - 2 32GB memory cards should get you plenty of record time and allow you to off-load the footage from one card while being able to use the 2nd card.

  4. Camera Bag: Ruggard Commando 25 Shoulder Bag - A great little camera bag that should fit everything you need in it. If you think it is too small, just step up to it's bigger brother the Commando 36.

  5. LED Light: Genaray LED-2100 36 LED Compact On-Camera Light - A great little on-camera LED light to add more light if you think that is going to be an issue. It can totally be removed if you need to cut down the budget and you dont think you will need it. (a smartphone light would work in a pinch if you rarely need extra light)

  6. Extra Battery: Panasonic Lithium-Ion Camcorder Battery Pack (3.6V, 1940mAh) - This is another battery of the same size as the included one. According to product specialists, it will get you ~1.5 hrs per battery. If you need to cut down on the budget, I would recommend cutting the extra battery and using the included AC adapter more often or using a USB battery pack to power the camera.

    For attaching the mic, slide the included detachable cold shoe mount into the slot at the rear of the camera until it clicks, slide the mic into the cold shoe and tighten the knob to secure it in place. For attaching the LED light, screw the bar into the bottom of the camera and attach the LED light to the bar similar to attaching the mic.

    If you have any other questions, do not hesitate to ask. I hope this helps!
u/mull3t · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Could try updating the controller, if it was recently purchased you've got 30 days I'd return it and say it was defective. In the department of batteries [Save yourself the trouble and buy these. Bar none the best rechargables ever made.] (

u/Matty1138 · 5 pointsr/xbox360

There's a similar product with Panasonic Eneloop branding now. The price is cheaper and the charger is much better, according to the battery-reviewing guy on Amazon.

u/Im2Nelson4u · 5 pointsr/Gameboy

Eneloop is my favorite.

The standard version is cheap and performs very well (2000mah) and widely available at most stores

The XX or pro version is expensive and only last 500 charges but hold 25% more power (2500mah) which will mean an additional couple of hours

I prefer the pro version if you can get it cheap since 500 charge cycles will last you atleast 2 years of use on a portable like the gameboy. Found them on sale at my local camera store for $20 during the holidays

while I use the regular version on devices that gets charged daily like my gaming mouse

u/mcfarlie6996 · 5 pointsr/flashlight

>Basically I'm looking for one that runs on AA batteries, is relatively easy to pocket or doesn't take up too much space on my duty belt; something decently bright to cut through foliage and search for objects/people.

>I've been looking at the Nitecore EA41/21 and MT2A.

"Cut through foliage". So you're looking for something with good throw/tight hotspot? Just remember, the larger the reflector, the more throw. The EA21/MT2A isn't going to have the throw that the EA41 has due to the smaller reflector on them. There's really no good throwers in those smaller sizes but for the EA41 size, I'd suggest getting the Thrunite TN41 XP-L HI instead which puts the EA41 to shame. This guy is 5mm shorter but 5mm wider but the thing that excels in this guy is the XP-L HI emitter which is designed for even more improved throw over other emitters on the market.

As many suggest, rechargeable are the way to go which I'll show you. I've actually borrowed the EA41 from my buddy to test which here is the runtime on High output. As you can see the NiMH rechargeable Eneloop batteries put both Energizer and Rayovac to shame. Yes Eneloop may be more expensive up front but they can be recharged up to 2000 times. So even though we know in the graph that 4 Eneloop batteries out-perform 4 Alkaline batteries, lets just pretend that they were equal. So you can get a 4 pack with a charger for $18 which would replace at least 8000 Alkaline batteries (4 rechargeable AA x 2000 recharge cycles). Can you get that many Alkalines for that price? Buy a backup 4 pack and you just replace another 8000 batteries along with having a backup of your own set so you'll always have a fresh set of batteries waiting on the charger.

One note, if you ever do think you'll get into Lithium-Ion batteries, I'd suggest getting a different charger like the Nitecore D4. I have this guy which can charge both Li-ion & NiMH batteries of many many sizes.

As for Lithium-Ion flashlight suggestions (just to throw them out there), the Armytek Predator XP-L HI is nearly best in class which it should have the same throw as the Thrunite mentioned above. It has a 5mm smaller head, obviously the body is thinner, but it's 40mm longer due to the tail-switch. Also check out the Nitecore MH27 which is nearly similar but has a little better user interface. An added note for the Predator that uses an 18650 Li-ion battery, a single high capacity 18650 battery out-performs over 6 AA Alkaline batteries, even though it's not much bigger than one. This means you can get more power and runtime in smaller applications. Plus these can be recharged as well for 500 cycles so they replace over 2500 AA batteries.

u/adum_korvic · 5 pointsr/Games

Nah that doesn't work. You should just buy a bundle that includes an eneloop battery charging bay.

Here's the 4 pack with a charging bay that I bought, it's 18 bucks.

u/Ericbazinga · 5 pointsr/OculusQuest

Go with this. $20, gets you 4 AA batteries plus a charger. The controllers only need one each so you can use one pair while charging the other, then swap.

u/Zak · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Something you should know is that the T10, like all higher-output flashlights powered by AA batteries, is designed for use with NiMH rechargeables.

Alkalines will work in a pinch, but full output on high won't be sustainable for very long, and battery life on high will be short. Alkalines also have a tendency to leak and ruin devices. The T10 leaves plenty of room in your budget for a pack of Eneloops with charger.

u/DrunkenFist · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I use these instead. a bit cheaper than the p&c kit, batteries have good life, and you can actually use them for other things if you need to.

u/TheUpAndDown · 5 pointsr/golf

My main camera for the course is a GoPro knock-off, SJCAM SJ5000X Elite, I think. I have a 128GB memory card in it, which is good for maybe 10-12 hours of video at 2k resolution, 30fps. I shoot at the higher resolution so that I can do some framing during editing, and not worry about framing up every single swing while on the course.

The camera is mounted on a clamp mount kind of like This

The clamp is stuck on the handle of a cheap pullcart, because my feet and back don't like lugging the bag around the course anymore. You asked about the hardware, and the pullcart is the real secret. I basically wheel up behind my ball for a "down the line" view, and then play golf. I keep the battery plugged in through the whole round, and just plug it into the camera in "dashcam" mode on the first tee and unplug when I hit the parking lot. Down side of the camera is it doesn't have any audio inputs, so the onboard mic is all you get. The second production run of these cameras (last year?) has a better mic, so the audio is at least usable, but there's a lot of "noise" in the recording.

I power the camera, and recharge my phone on the course from an Anker 10k mAh battery that fits nicely in the cupholder of the pullcart.

I have a nice desktop that I edit on, that is now approaching r/battlestations -worthiness, after several years of moving, and putting it in a spare room, or even keeping it packed away. I edit in Adobe Premiere Pro, and crop down to 1080 from the 2k resolution, which allows most of the swings to be well-framed and watchable.

I was going to try to produce videos about my pursuit of a better swing, or lower scores, or beating my brother in our annual event, but I haven't found a good format that is watchable. I've always been just on the verge of another round of swing lessons, and maybe a club-fitting, but haven't ponied up since I only get to the course like 1-2 times a week now. I don't anticipate the channel taking off at all, because I don't have the personality to make it more watchable, but I still like being able to watch my round afterward.

u/IWasGregInTokyo · 5 pointsr/spaceporn

I recently broke down and did this.

This telescope. (Heavy but great optics)

This phone holder

iPhone 7 Plus

VSCO camera app to allow control of exposure, ISO, etc.

Gets me this on the second try taking pictures

u/UserEsp · 5 pointsr/gopro

There is currently no 3rd party usb-c mic adapter in the market.

That being said the most popular mic is the

u/mduser63 · 5 pointsr/iOSProgramming

No. MIDI is not audio, and there’s no way to send MIDI data directly through the audio port.

You can use this lightning to USB adapter to connect to a USB MIDI device.

Source: I’m the author of MIKMIDI and have also written code to send (non-MIDI) data through the audio port, so I’ve got experience in both areas.

u/pocketmnky · 4 pointsr/PSVR

You could *try* a LensPen on that. I had something similar that I was convinced was scratches but it went away with one use of the LensPen. It's worth the $10 or so on Amazon.

u/wshing · 4 pointsr/photography

You can but you will lose auto focus.

Look up the mount and put in XXX to eos adaptor. and youll be able to fit some glass to your camera.

Some lenses will not be able to accept the conversion because your mirror will strike the back end of the lens, destroying your mirror.

u/joemorf · 4 pointsr/recordthis

I still use my Yeti Blue for quick usb recordings. There's nothing wrong with them. Pretty sure that most if not all of the airchecks I've recorded for this forum have been recorded using the Yeti Blue.

My entry-level XLR mic was the Rode NT1A. (It's still part of my setup when I need multiple mics simultaneously.) They are currently on sale one Amazon Rode NT1A but I don't know what the current 38% off / $229 translates into for you up there in Canuckistan. (That's a package price that includes a pop filter, shock mount, mic stand, and xlr cable.)

If you do go with the Rode NT1A, you'll want to take a few basic steps to treat your room if you haven't already. It picks up everything. For example, before I had my room treated properly, I had to stop recording if the refrigerator started running downstairs.

My primary mics are currently a Shure SM7B for studio stuff, and a Shure Beta 58a for live outdoor vocals. But the Rode NT1A is still in the mix from time to time. It's a solid entry-level professional microphone.

u/audiotecnicality · 4 pointsr/audioengineering

I really like the Rode NT1A. It's a pretty versatile mic, I've used it for voice overs, vocals, drum overheads, guitars, etc. Comes with a shock mount and pop filter.

u/djdementia · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Beginners kits get asked often here. Here is what I wrote up a few weeks ago for beginners kits:

A beginners kit on a tight budget ~$180:

u/raiderxx · 4 pointsr/WeatherGifs

Oh man!!! Something like this?!

I didn't even realize that was a thing!! Of course it is now that I think about it... I was trying to take pictures of lightning and I literally sat on my porch for an hour taking 15 second exposures manually hoping to get lightning in it. This is super exciting and not crazy expensive. I assume I can use this method also for taking astro shots? Ive been doing it manually for too long... Thanks for the detail!

u/sharedferret · 4 pointsr/ExposurePorn

If you're not comfortable changing the firmware on your camera, an intervalometer like this one is a cheap solution to taking a series of exposures without needing to be near the camera.

u/alohadave · 4 pointsr/photography

The $20 Neewer intervalometer on Amazon is pretty hard to beat. It has several program modes and will work without batteries as a simple wired remote.

Just find the version that has the plug you need.

If you want to do automated HDR, look at a Pluto Trigger. It's pricey at $124 with a cable, but it works via Bluetooth and an app on your phone. 19 different trigger modes and extensible via ports.

u/MoogleMan3 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Here's my post I make when people ask what accessories and games they should look at for the switch; most are exclusives. I put puyo puyo tetris on the list because I have more switch pro controllers than ps4 controllers, so multiplayer is easier for us on the switch. Cave story+ has some things the pc version doesn't, which is why I listed that one.

Here's my switch starter kit:

Amfilm Tempered Glass Screen Protectors
RDS Switch Case
128GB Samsung Evo Select MicroSD Card
128GB Sandisk Ultra MicroSD Card
Switch Pro Controller
Ugreen Usb 3.0 to Ethernet Adapter
Magicfiber Cloths

I'd not want to be without any of these items.

Mario Kart 8 Deluxe
Super Mario Odyssey
Xenoblade Chronicles 2
Super Bomberman R
Puyo Puyo Tetris
Fire Emblem Warriors
Cave Story+
Zelda Breath of the Wild
Snipperclips Plus
Pokken Tournament DX
Azure Striker Gunvolt Striker Pack
Mighty Gunvolt Burst (eshop)
Blaster Master Zero (eshop)
Kamiko (eshop)
Golf Story (eshop)

u/YouAreWhatYouEet · 4 pointsr/bicycling

By terrible I mean utter shit. I've only used it in the cold because I got it for Christmas and haven't been able to ride for a few months due to a concussion, but it lasted maybe 2 hours when I took it skiing? Idk, I was too busy having fun, but it seems I'm not the only one with that opinion. Refer to a forum such as this and you'll see that the max recording time is only 3h 18m at 1080p 30fps with the battery back pack and an absolutely miserable 1h 56m without the external battery. The backpack is about $50, or for the same price you can get 2 extra batteries to bring along.

u/CaseyTatum · 4 pointsr/flashlight

If your friend's dad ends up with a Q8 or other light with a tripod socket, you should explore some mounting options for his wheelchair.

Look around at the products labeled 'magic arm mount' or 'articulating camera clamp.' There are many designs. Here's one example on Amazon with dual ballheads to get you started.

Most of them have small knobs that take a bit of force to lock firmly into place, so take that into consideration.

You might also find something with a quick-release that could be left on the Q8. That would make it easier to mount/dismount from the wheelchair.

Be sure your friend buys quality 18650 batteries from a trusted seller!

u/SoCaLLbeer · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Play and charge kits are typically poor quality. Was on Xbox 360 as well. Get a good set of rechargable AAs with a good charger.. they last longer between charge and you always have a charged pair ready to go. I use these they are awesome, charger is per cell so no matching needed. .. Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/GT_GZA · 4 pointsr/xboxone

None. Don't waste your money on the proprietary battery packs and chargers. Get some good rechargeable AA batteries, preferably Eneloop, and a decent charger (multiple options there). Rechargeable AAs are cheaper, last longer, and are more versatile because can use rechargeable AA (and AAA) in many, many common devices. Search Eneloop on Amazon, and you'll find many different options with various numbers/sizes of batteries and many include a charger. The bundled Eneloop-branded charger will be adequate for most people's needs.
Just an example--4 AA Eneloops and charger for $16:

These are way better than the proprietary junk.

u/shadama · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Just remember most eneloops can be recharged 2100 times the pros are only good for 500 or so charges.

Edit: here would be my reccomendation instead and its only 20.00 bucks

u/SirEDCaLot · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Get Eneloop batteries. That's 4 batteries and the charger for $18.

Amusingly, Eneloop batteries seem to last longer in the XB1 controller than normal AAs...

u/MeestaJohnny · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I wasn't a huge fan of it and instead went with some eneloops. They were cheaper and they last quite a bit longer than the rechargeable pack (I dont know by how much). But I've had these for years and they've done me right. Cant go wrong.

Here's the link:

u/DerDaku · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Well, since the Apple Batteries are basically just rebranded Eneloops, yes, its overpriced.
Get yourself this and this. You'll pay a little bit less, have two more batteries and a nice charger for charging up to 4 batteries at a time.

u/drfoqui · 4 pointsr/wii

I'm not sure if your hate for AA batteries includes the rechargeable kind but I think the most practical solution is eneloops (or any good rechargeable AA batteries). I use these and they are great. It is cheaper than any Wii battery pack and you can use them for other devices.

u/centigrade100 · 4 pointsr/Roadcam

"Add a fuses" (plugged into power window circuit, which only turns off after door is opened), fished wire over to passenger side where I crimped on a 2 USB port 5V DC/DC adapter (VHB taped behind glovebox, grounded locally to a ground point -- check with a multimeter!), and ran a lengthy USB cable under the plastic trim to the cameras. You should be able to force the wire behind rubber seals along the door frame and up the A pillar. You should also be able to hide the cable in the seam between the rear seats and the flooring/felt.

Tip: If the wire falls out from the crack between the window and plastic trim, wrap a few loops of tape around the wire. Its increased thickness keeps it hidden and not dangling in front of your passenger.

I know this wasn't clear. I can draw a picture if you wish. I also did the same with my GPS, so the singular 12V socket doesn't have a squid of USB cables going all over the car. Note that the suction cups don't stay on well on hot or cold days. I used VHB tape to attach a camera behind my rear view mirror (onto the screen printed sun shade dots no less).

DC-DC converter

Add-A-Fuses (Though look for ones for your specific fuse variety)

VHB tape (used to attach the DC/DC converter; fixes the suctioncups not adhering well)

If you're feeling adventurous, I wanted to try to make a UPS for it using one of these. (For public parking lots / when car isn't on)

u/abcteryx · 4 pointsr/Vive

Searching around leads me to believe that the lighthouses won't draw much more than [email protected], but likely draw closer to [email protected] most of the time. This decently reviewed, [email protected] battery on Amazon will get you probably about twelve hours of battery life.

u/rhymeswithdeath · 4 pointsr/WTT_graduates

I definitely think that sounds reasonable.

I have an s2, I mostly pump at the office too. I’ve seen a hack where you can use Velcro strips and this lithium battery to make the s2 portable - but I haven’t tried that myself. I did buy a car adapter which Ive used once when my mom watched the baby while we went on a date.

u/amishbill · 4 pointsr/18650masterrace

The cells are going to be re-wraps of something random. See the Q/A section of

The original rating is 12000mah, which makes the original cell capacity 2000mah each. It's also listed as 3A mac discharge current. I see no way to tell if that limit is in the controller or the cells themselves.

Also, the cells appear to be in a weird 2p3s layout, but I can't tell by the pictures.

Note - these are likely connected by spot welded metal straps. Getting them separated can be a challenge, and getting new cells in place will require more spot welding or soldering, as I don't see any spring loaded contacts to allow easy replacement.

IMHO, use the power bank as-is. When it stops doing what you want it to do, toss it in a Home Depot or Lowes batery recycling box.

u/KingAires · 4 pointsr/uberdrivers

Personally didn't want wires everywhere, so I bought a cheap 12,000mAH 12v/5v USB power brick and velcro'd it to my sunvisor. It powers my dash cam for a whole week before needing charging.

u/ShrunkenHeadDoctor · 4 pointsr/space

I got an adapter for my smartphone to take pics... It works really well!

Gosky Universal Cell Phone Adapter Mount

u/Laylong · 4 pointsr/guns

Really not purpose built, but what I'm using in this setup is an HP Elitebook with a microsoft 720p webcam (is actually the roommate's) literally just duct taped onto an Emarth 20-60x60. Alternatively to a laptop and webcam is to use your phone with something like this.

Better results could be had with better equipment, but it worked well enough for my purpose. Two side notes: For outdoors, reducing the camera's exposure settings helps reduce washout. The other thing is shoot and see type targets work well.

u/Spritboi · 4 pointsr/videography

I would definitely recommend the Rode Videomicro. If want even better, plug the Videomicro into a Zoom H1 and you'll be set!

u/ShiggieSmalls · 4 pointsr/tipofmytongue

Lapel mics? Also called lavalier mics.

u/scubascratch · 4 pointsr/iPadOS

Yes it works but you need a lightning to USB adapter like this

Or you need to use a flash drive with lightning connector like this

u/covertash · 4 pointsr/headphones

> Get the apple camera adapter, and use its USB to your modi, here you use your full stack but you need this more expensive camera adapter and your phone battery will drain much more quickly than with the 3.5mm dongle

The newer USB 3 version allows you to plug in a Lightning cable into it to allow simultaneous charging.

/u/picantehumano go for this one.

u/Traherne · 4 pointsr/iphone
u/GrandWithCheese · 3 pointsr/PSVR
u/poopisme · 3 pointsr/PSVR

This is what I use and its perfect

u/natemac · 3 pointsr/OculusQuest

I have one of these in my camera bag, check to see if it’s cheaper if you call it a camera lens cleaner rather then a vr lens cleaner

Nikon 7072 Lens Pen Cleaning System, Black


I trust is with way more expensive lenses then the quest

u/replicant_nexus · 3 pointsr/SonyAlpha

Sure, it's here

u/BearFan34 · 3 pointsr/VisitingIceland

I just ordered a rain sleeve to allow me to shoot in the rain
OP/TECH USA 9001132 Rainsleeve - Original, 2-Pack (Clear)

u/ageowns · 3 pointsr/photography

I put a UV filter on my gear, and this $6.50 (two pack!) rain sleeve from Amazon to shoot a GWAR show. There was a lot of blood.
rain gear in action

There is no money in shooting concerts. You will not get very far shooting events like that without a portfolio. Shoot what you can, have a good time.

Be careful with your gear though

u/DrunkBeavis · 3 pointsr/photography

I just keep a couple cheapo rain sleeves in my bag.

Like These

u/fauxtodd · 3 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

I shot a whole bunch of rainy weddings in 2018 (a very wet wedding season for Pennsylvania). My second to last wedding for the year was in the low 40s with a consistent heavy rain. With that said, here some things I've learned...

-Change of clothes, including shoes and socks. Hopefully it won't be cold for you, but being wet for the reception sucks.

-Good protection for your camera. I used these: because they are cheap, but they are hardly convenient. I'd recommend practicing with them, because they change your access to controls, lens zoom, etc. I can't comment on other rain sleeves, hopefully they are much easier/nicer to use!

-Ditto on backlit umbrella shots. Those are tons of fun! You'll probably want an umbrella with white interior and black exterior for those shots. An all white umbrella works, but you'll see the couples shadow I inside. An all black umbrella would be too dark. You can also shoot backlit without any umbrella:

-Having nice umbrellas to hand to the couple is a thoughtful gesture. I like all-white umbrellas or there are nice clear umbrellas, too:

-Be ready for the couple to not want to be outside for anything besides the ceremony. It stinks, but it's their day. Have some indoor posing ideas ready.

u/cassadagaohyeah · 3 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

For a wedding I had last Fall, I got a waterproof sleeve off Amazon - and a super fashionable headband-umbrella. I looked ridiculous but the guests got a kick out of it and the photos looked great all things considered!

Link to the sleeve I got: OP/TECH USA 9001132 Rainsleeve -...

u/Archie96 · 3 pointsr/SonyAlpha

Yes you can but to be sure I use these rain sleeve things...

I also read the battery door hinge is the water-weak-spot so I use blu tack on that, not pretty, but effective.

u/imsellingmyfoot · 3 pointsr/photography

Light(er) rain, I'll use an OPTech Rainsleeve. They're cheap, reusuable a few times, and easy to set up.

Heavy rain, I don't have experience with, other than putting my camera away.

For a canoe trip, I would highly recommend looking into getting a dry bag. Something like this from Lowepro or something else from their Dryzone series.

u/Photo_Pat · 3 pointsr/photography

For future reference, I use these cheap plastic bag style covers. At $3.50 a piece, they're cheap enough to throw one in every camera bag and glove compartment you have.

u/rungunshoot · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

You need a Nikon F to EOS adapter, like this:

As far as I know Nikon has not changed their mount in decades, so any AI or AIS lens should work fine (albeit fully manual) on Canon.

u/finaleclipse · 3 pointsr/photography

Well it is an old camera, so it's definitely not going to perform at the same level as the new hotness, but that could also be a straight out of camera JPEG with no raw editing too.

Have a look through the Flickr D200 pool and see if you're cool with the quality before buying for sure:

I mean, don't expect miracles, but people still do use older cameras (for example, I'm still using my decade-old 5D and love it) with great effect.

Also just for another random suggestion: if you're not committed to Nikon cameras, Canon EOS cameras (anything that has the EF mount) can adapt Nikon F lenses with a simple adapter. A benefit of going with Canon in this particular instance is that stop down metering should work with any camera, not just their mid-range and higher ones.

If this is an attractive option, looking at some used T3s or T1is could be another choice to consider.

u/videoscott · 3 pointsr/DSLR

In the last few years, I have owned and/or used Canon 5DII, 7D, Blackmagic Pocket and now GH4. Lots of pictures (hey, I'm visual).

The basic Field Of View (FOV) of lenses don't change - a 50mm is a 50mm, no matter if the lens is made for a full-frame 35mm film camera, or a native Micro Four Thirds cam like the GH4. The only difference is the image circle a lens projects behind it is (usually) designed for the size of sensor it has to cover. If the lens is designed for a larger sensor, it can usually be used on a smaller sensor, but the FOV will appear smaller. The lens will appear more telephoto, just as if you cropped out the center of a photo on a larger camera. thus, "crop factor".

Here are the basic video shooting modes for the GH4. Now, that picture compares the modes to the full MFT sensor. 1080 uses the full width of the sensor, but not the full height, due to the 16x9 Aspect Ratio. the MFT sensor is quite a bit smaller than a "Full Frame" camera such as the Canon 5D, or an APS-C Like the 7D.

Sidenote: I said basic video shooting modes, because the v2 firmware has added several other 4K modes only really useful for pulling stills, or special-use videos in more square-ish aspect ratios (like shooting with an anamorphic lens).

Various sensor sizes, and modes within them can seem super complicated, and difficult to wrap your head around. Mainly, I think it's due to the wealth of choices available: with mirrorless cameras, you can adapt almost any lens made for stills or cinema, and quite a few lenses originally made for video. This is because the Flange Focal Distance, or the distance between the sensor and the lens mount, is so short. As long as the FFD is longer, you can adapt the lens easily with a basically a dumb tube that moves the lens farther out, and has the proper mounts at each end.

That's fine for all-manual lenses, where you can adjust the iris, focus and (for zoom lenses) focal length manually. But for more modern lenses that require electronic control, you need a "smart" adapter like the ones from Metabones. Metabones also make Speedboosters, which "condense" the image circle of a larger lens into the size of a smaller sensor, giving you three advantages: .7x wider FOV than a "dumb" adapter; 1 stop more light; and, better image detail.

If you compare the GH4s sensor sizes to other common film/video formats, it's rather on the small-ish size for either motion picture or still photography, but larger than most 1/3" or 1/2" pro video cameras of the last few decades. In 4K, it's a bit larger than the BMPCC, which is almost identical to Super-16mm film. Add a Speedbooster, and it's very similar to APS-C or Super 35mm film.

I like this general range a lot. Many of the fast & small C-mount lenses that cover the Pocket also cover 4K, and using a Speedbooster opens up (relatively) inexpensive and high-quality Canon lenses. Like any camera with a smaller sensor, telephoto is easy. Getting a true wide-angle rectilinear is where it starts to get hard and pricey. 18mm is NOT a wide angle on this size sensor without a speedbooster.

That said, my single, ideal all purpose lens would be the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 VC, Canon Mount on a Canon Speedbooster. Why Canon instead of Nikon? Because of the flange distance, I could also use old manual Nikon lenses with a simple cheap adapter. Can't do that the other way around.

This gives me a very nice, nearly parfocal, constant f2.0 lens that goes from a nice wide to a medium telephoto. This lens and the Speedbooster are abouth 30% more than the most popular native MFT lens, but you only have to buy the SB once. If you don't need stabilization, the lens is even less.

u/daegon · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

For video, I'd go with the canon t3i with the magiclantern firmware:

That being said, Nikon has the 35mm f/1.8, to which Canon really has no comparably priced option (except the too-long in APS-C nifty fifty). A very popular kit is a Canon body with old Nikon lenses via an adapter like this one:

u/vaxt · 3 pointsr/Cameras

I also have a Nikkormat, and I can tell you that it uses a Nikon F Mount. All you have to do is get a simple mechanical adapter, since aperture and focus are manual. I have this Fotodiox one and it works okay, it is not designed to be removed too often however.

u/bichkin · 3 pointsr/acappella

I don't really think there's a clear answer for this, but the good news is that there are many excellent options these days. Sound quality isn't always the most important aspect to consider. Many artists have had great success with just an SM58 microphone hooked up to their computer. If you're just starting up and you don't need studio quality recordings, something like this might be fine. I often just use a basic handheld mic when I'm multitracking a new arrangement for my group to learn. It's quick, simple, and often easier for recording beatboxing with too. There are plenty of free or affordable programs available for multitracking too, so the mic will be your main expense.

If you're looking to make some top quality recordings, you can expect to start spending more as well. Not going to lie - this is where it can get complicated and expensive. I'd recommend starting basic and get a decent condenser mic with a stand and a pop screen, a soundcard or usb mixer with a decent preamp, and stick with the cheaper software for recording.

If you find you're getting more serious with your recordings you may want to upgrade the microphone to a Neumann, install some noise dampening panels, and look into a DAW (digital audio workstation, or recording software) such as Pro Tools.

Whatever you do, don't spend too much on overpriced cables. Check out Monoprice

u/Petravita · 3 pointsr/makinghiphop

Hey there! Here's my suggestion if you're starting out and have a $600 budget.

u/failbenork · 3 pointsr/photography

Do you shoot nikon or canon or etc? What camera?

For mac, Sofortbild is pretty cool. For nikons.

If you shoot canon, consider checking out Canon's EOS utility.

Both of these should let you do timelapsing. My cameras have a built in interval timer, so I just used that for convenience.

If you shoot canon, you can also use a remote control unit that acts as the timelapse controller.

Hope this helps.

u/gooberlx · 3 pointsr/CampingandHiking

> or buy an intervalometer.

Definitely the best, and relatively cheap, option if one doesn't want to muck around with firmware.

u/Arrowstar · 3 pointsr/astrophotography

I use one of these and they work really well:

Neewer LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control

u/Freebird2k6 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Order these in bulk, it's about a two week lifespan before you have to wash them again unless you wear glasses, then it's only one.

Either way, they live up to their name, I never use a cleaning solution and there's never any smudges/streaks on either my glasses or the Oculus after about 10-20 seconds of rubbing the lenses. I'm extremely neurotic about smudging, I hold my glasses up to the light afterwards and they honestly look brand new.

They've even got a money-back no questions asked guarantee. I'm not a spokesman or anything, these things just honestly changed my life.

u/N307H30N3 · 3 pointsr/Vive

I bought those and found that they leave microfibers all over my lenses/screen. I would recommend microfiber cloths over microfiber towels, personally.

u/PollardPhotography · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

I only ever use two things to clean my camera gear:

Giottos Rocket Blaster -

Microfiber cloths - (Any well-reviewed cloth will do, this just happens to be the ones I ordered)

I never use any kind of solution or chemical, the closest I get to that is lightly breathing onto something which might have a stubborn bit of dirt which needs some moisture to aid removal.

Use the rocket blaster first and if that fails then move onto the microfiber cloth. The rocket blaster is the only safe way to use air on your gear- both canned and compressed air carry risk of damaging your equipment.


u/BigBepis12345 · 3 pointsr/EDCexchange

I'm curious about the pricing too (I also saw it was $120 when you commented). I looked up the cost of the things listed.

  • Gerber Dime green/black - $16.02 new on Amazon
  • Zebra F-701 pen - $7.20 new on Amazon
  • NarwhalCo pens set of 2 - $11.95 new on their site
  • 2.5" ratchet bit extension - about $4~ new on Amazon (counting out the other bits included in that listing)
  • ARES 1/4" micro bit ratchet & mini bits - $14.42 new on Amazon
  • Small length of black Gorilla tape - less than $1 worth of a full 1-pack price new on Amazon
  • Glasses/screen cleaning cloth - comparable to $1.50 new on Amazon from a 6-pack
  • Length of FireCord - less than $1 worth of a full 1 roll price new on Amazon
  • Bic Mini lighter - about $1.39 new on Amazon from a 5-pack
  • Sim card removal tool - about $0.50 new on Amazon from a 10-pack
  • Kingston 32gb microSD card & portable USB reader - $20.94 new on Amazon
  • CountyComm "Industrial Strength Survival Food Grade Tin" large topo design - $3.45 new on their site

    In total that's about $83.37 USD all new prices. Most include free shipping if purchased from Amazon. I did not include possible cost of that leather holster because the post currently does not say the leather holster is included or not.
u/hansky84 · 3 pointsr/GearVR


I bought some when I got my Gear, but I use them for my family's glasses and our phones. I thought all lens clothes were the same, but these clean better with no spray than any others with spray. I can clean most screens/lenses without any spray, but if it's super dirty, you can use spray with them as well. And they can be handwashed when they need to be.

u/andrewhl2 · 3 pointsr/GearVR

These changed my way of seeing microfiber as just some simple cloth you could get anywhere:

I got one just for the fun of it, but one quick wipe on my lens and i was blown away. Never going back to regular microfibers.

u/organic_meatbag · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting
  1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.

  2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.

  3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.

  4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.

  5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.

u/gingerblz · 3 pointsr/PSVR

I can very much appreciate the sentiment of wanting to clean and re-use the cloths. However, one of the best ways to scratch a lens is to clean it with a cloth with particle contaminates. IMO, it's just not worth the risk. I picked up a 6 pack of cloths on Amazon for a few dollars. I'm on my second cloth, and just keep the old ones around for cleaning cheap (entirely replaceable) reading glasses, and save the fresh ones for my VR lenses.

This is what I use specifically:

u/oliath · 3 pointsr/daddit

Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4...

I grabbed a few of these. They are modular so you can add more pieces. Basically means we can mount the camera wherever needed and then when done use it for my own camera setups. A bit less elegant but in all about buying stuff that will have a use once it's not needed for baby stuff.

u/BigPoppaDayveezy · 3 pointsr/Vive

Not sure if money is an issue but if you have some extra cash buy these and put them in opposite corners. These are amazing.

u/LolCakeLazors · 3 pointsr/Vive

Also in college and I'm using these clamps with these poles. Works really nicely and I can move my setup between my home and college during breaks really easily.

u/VoltageKnight · 3 pointsr/Vive
u/santanzchild · 3 pointsr/virtualreality

I use these


Mounted on these without the trays installed


Just set them up in each corner of my play area easy to take down if needed.

u/jopasm · 3 pointsr/PanasonicG7

Yeah, make sure it's charged. Try to test it with a phone. The way it splits into two looks gimmicky, I suspect you have a bad mic or something isn't plugged in right. You might want to send it back for an exchange.

If you can't do a Rode Video Micro, this alternative has good reviews:
Movo VXR10 Universal Video Microphone with Shock Mount, Deadcat Windscreen, Case for iPhone, Android Smartphones, Canon EOS, Nikon DSLR Cameras and Camcorders

This is an even cheaper mic, a bit larger, but it's surprisingly good, rivals the original Rode VideoMic:
TAKSTAR SGC-598 Interview Microphone for Nikon/Canon Camera/DV Camcorder

u/jaeger_meister · 3 pointsr/drums

The D3200 has an external mic input, so you can buy an inexpensive external mic like the Takstar SGC-598. I bought one for my D3200 and it massively improved the quality of the recorded audio.

u/DemmyDemon · 3 pointsr/Vive

I have a couple of these and these.
Takes less floor space than a tripod, let's me mount the lighthouses way higher, and is way more stable. Of course, it requires your ceiling is low enough that you can brace them between floor and ceiling, but not a lot of people have a ceiling higher than 290cm (9'6"?) in their playspace.

u/wiredtobeweird · 3 pointsr/Vive
u/cpdylemma · 3 pointsr/Vive

Currently have my Vive setup in my apartment living room, which is adjacent to my bedroom with my PC. In the living room is my TV, two couches, and my Vive lighthouses.

On the two opposite corners I have these extendable spring loaded poles I purchased from Amazon.

I adjusted the tension so its a tight fit from floor to th ceiling.

On the top of those poles are my lighthouses pointing towards the middle of the living room. The lighthouses are mounted onto the pole using these attachable clamps.

They've been there stable since May of this year.

u/apfelisina · 3 pointsr/Vive

Can't say this is the best of the best, but I use these:

in combination with these (sadly no longer available):

Works like a charm for me.

u/Reasonabledwarf · 3 pointsr/Vive

It was their recommendation for the Vive DK, and it's in the manual that's available online, at the very end. There's a little clip that they use to attach the base station to it.

There's definitely similar things available for lower prices, and you don't' need a 3/4 pack, just one or two of the things. I just pointed it out as it was their specific recommendation.

u/Scholander · 3 pointsr/Vive

Unless your ceilings are absurdly tall, look into an extendable shower curtain rod and a mount that you can clamp onto it. These screwed right into the hole on the back of the lighthouse. Works great, and I have been able to easily move to different rooms or apartments as needed.

u/The_Kraken_ · 3 pointsr/audio

Alright, so let me try to break down your problem a little bit. You're running into a few issues:

  • Lapel mics are usually condenser mics, which require phantom power.
  • Microphone connections are usually "balanced"

    Condenser Mics

    Condenser mics are a type of microphone that operates using capacitors and other circuitry. The advantage is that they are smaller and generally more sensitive. The downside is that they require power to function.

    In studios / stages, the "phantom" power (48 Volts) is supplied by the mixing board or installed infrastructure. In field settings, you need a battery of some kind to power the microphone. This could be a belt-pack or a DI Box. You now can find condensers that are designed to work with smartphones; I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are using one wire in the TRRS connector for power.

    Balanced Signals

    Most microphones use a "Balanced" connection (XLR, TRS). A balanced connection generally uses 3 wires to send a single (i.e. mono) audio signal. The way this works is that one wire is the shield, and the other two wires both carry the signal (out of phase with each other). The benefit of this is that any noise introduced along the cable can be cancelled out when you compare the two signal wires.

    The confusion comes when people decide to send two (i.e. stereo) signals over the same kind of connector (e.g. TRS). In that case what you get is a neutral wire, a left audio wire, and a right audio wire. This is an "unbalanced" connection, and does not have the noise rejection property that balanced connections do.

    What you need

    So, if I may take a stab at describing what you're trying to do; you're trying to take two balanced audio signals (your two mics) and use them as the L/R channels in the unbalanced TRS connector on your camera.

    So, you need to first find way to power your mics: beltpacks, DI box, or other, then find a way to make them unbalanced, then connect them to a L/R TRS breakout cable.

    Make Sense?
u/piscoitaly · 3 pointsr/italy

Zoom H1/MB Registratore Digitale su Amazon 98€. Microfono lavalier 66€. L'audio è la parte più importante di un cortometraggio, puoi avere delle immagini scadenti ma se hai un audio perfetto (decente) ha fatto il 70% del lavoro. 😉

u/m1stertim · 3 pointsr/audioengineering

> The Hosa cable is is XLR to 3.5 mm, which is the standard size on practically every phone

Yes, but a 3.5mm TRS cable will line up with the headphone out connections, not the microphone in connections, because the phone's connector is TRRS. It will fit, but it won't work.

This would be your best option. If you're really set on using a dynamic mic, you'll need an adapter like this.

u/Sorry_Sorry_Im_Sorry · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

(I'm biased towards Sony and shoot with an A6500 and A7RII. I plan to preorder the A7SIII when it's announced).

I recommend the Sony RX100 VI if you want an all in one, or go with an A6500 for it's in-body stabilization, amazing low-light, 120fps slow motion/4k, and the ability to take some great photos as well. The lens on the VI is built in but is supposed to be really good but the A6500 allows you to shoot with different lenses to get the shots you want.

RX100 VI -

A6500 -

External mic if you want better audio -

u/UrbenLegend · 3 pointsr/SonyAlpha

Can't say about the a6000, but the built-in microphone really isn't bad on my a7r ii for vlogging purposes.

For a step up, people have been swearing by the Rode VideoMic Go, which doesn't require any extra batteries. In my opinion though, the Rode VideoMic series (Pro and Go) always gives a kind of low-level hiss that I find somewhat annoying. You can easily get rid of that hiss during post though.

u/brunerww · 3 pointsr/videography

Hi evilmonkey - the new [$298 Sony Music Video Recorder] ( might be what you're looking for.

Here are some examples of what it can do:

It doesn't have a zoom lens, so it's good for small venues - but not so good for big concerts.

Another option would be the [$387 (on sale) Panasonic FZ200] (, with its 24x constant f2.8 zoom and 2.5mm external mic jack.

Here is my FZ150 (the FZ200's older brother) with an external mic and a [$2 3.5mm to 2.5mm adapter] (

The FZ200 is [not that much larger than the EOS M] (,351), and there's no way you'll get a 24x constant f2.8 lens for the EOS M for a reasonable amount of money.

Even with its internal mic, the FZ200 sounds pretty good at concerts:

With an external mic, you will get even better results. Here it is with the [$229 Rode Videomic Pro] (

If the camera plus the Videomic Pro is too expensive, you might want to look at the smaller [$99 Videomic Go] (

Hope this is helpful,


u/Piktro · 3 pointsr/photography

The corner / wall method is your best option for minimal equipment. White walls are best, grey walls would work too. You will need a single flash or strobe with a cheap light stand / umbrella, and ideally a tripod / tethered laptop to make sure shots are consistent and ensure exposure looks good. Normally you would need a trigger for the flash, but you can use your pop-up flash as an optical trigger without affecting the exposure (covered in the video I linked below).

Cheap Stand / Umbrella ($29):

Cheap / Reliable Flash ($63):

And the following items are not 100% necessary, but you can use them for anything in your house, not just the flash - and these batteries are fantastic.

Rechargable Batteries with Charger ($18):

8-Pack Rechargable AA Batteries ($19):

Here's a video explaining single speed light portraits:
They have some similar videos too, worth checking out.

Just get your settings right with test shots, shoot raw, shoot full manual with an aperture of 5.6 or 8, ISO 100, 1/200 of a second. Your flash through umbrella will probably be at 1/4 or 1/8 power. The closer the light source is to the subject, the softer the light will be. Check your histogram to make sure you aren't blowing out any highlights. Tell people to wear basic, neutral clothes for the shoot, ideally not white, and have them all bring one alternate outfit just in case.

There is a lot that goes into it, but just watch some YouTube videos (Tony Chelsea, Gavin Hoey on Adorama), practice a bit with yourself, friends, family, and you'll be good to go.

If you have any other questions about it, feel free to PM me!

Edit: As far as lenses go, use the 50mm 1.8. It's the sharpest lens in your kit. Don't use it wide open, shoot at f5.6 or higher, and make sure your subject is about 5-6 feet from the wall behind them.

u/Gary_Burke · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Amazon has a four pack with a charger for $20. It's a great deal for the best batteries on the market. I put a pair in my controller on launch day, then proceeded to play a shit-load of battlefield. A week later I changed them while looking at Battlelog, which said I had put in 32 hours that week. 32 hours on one pair of rechargeables. Amazing.

u/phineas1134 · 3 pointsr/batteries

I just did some testing on the duracell Optimums. They are not worth the money. Your best bet is to go rechargeable and get some Eneloops. If for some crazy reason you need to see what battery will last absolutely the longest on a single use, primary lithiums like Energizer Ultimate Lithium will easily outlast any alkaline batteries.

Edit: Added some links for you.

u/empossible · 3 pointsr/DIY

This (which you can regularly get for $9) + This (Amazon's out of stock at the moment). Then you've got the added bonus of extra rechargeable batteries. Should the motor in the brush ever go bad, big deal, $9-15 (mine's been strong for over 2 years now).

u/Icebreaker808 · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I actually use Disposable Alakalines currently , since they are so cheap at Costco. But I have been researching cause I know I am killing the planet with the amount of batteries I go through using WMR.

So Based on recommendations and the fact that Costco carries them as well, Eneloop's seem to the consistently the highest rated and best performing Rechargeable on the market. The Cells are made in Japan, but the Chargers are from China, but most people I know recommend them highly.

Also there will always be 1 star reviews of anything. Just like people complain about WMR. 99% of the people could have no issues, but always going to be 1% that ends up with faulty/defective equipment, or abuse them or use it in a manner not recommended. I would not worry about it.

u/Gravesplitter · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Anytime. Let me link the thing I’m ordering

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/Sokurah · 3 pointsr/wiiu

>From what I read the Wii U Pro Controller lasts forever and can be charged by by connecting to the Wii U. Is this correct?

They say the battery life is around 80 hours, and for all I know it is, but I've never needed to use any controller that long without charging it. It does last for a long time, though, and it can be charged by connecting it to the Wii U (mini USB - cable's in the box).

As for the rechargeable batteries, I bought my brother a few pairs of these a couple Christmases ago and he swears by them:

u/broken_radio · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Battery might be a dud or on the way out. 3 out of 4 packs I bought worked for me, one died after a few months; after that I switched over to these Eneloop batteries and never looked back, they work great with the Elite controller.

u/darinclark · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Invest in some good rechargeable AA batteries. My choice is Panasonic Eneloop.

u/XboxOneisanawesome1 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Panasonic Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger with eneloop AA 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (White, Pack of 4)

u/Rycan420 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Correct about he batteries, but don’t buy a cheap charger. You’ll spend an extra $4 for the best on Amazon...

Amazon Link

If you check the reviews on Amazon there is a guy that give extensive reviews on batteries and chargers. He’s really impressed by this one and this price.

I can confirm it’s been great. Charges all brands, and doesn’t require charging 2 at a time like the cheaper chargers.

u/Narutosuns2fan · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Actually a new set of eneloops with the charger is half the price of this, although I totally get wanting to keep your controllers away from your kids.

u/thaddeusblunt · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I just got these

So far they have been great. You will always have a fully charged battery back up ready to go and you can use these for other things besides xbox controllers. I was in your same situation and the pros of the eneloops outweigh the pros of the play and charge. My play and charge kit for the 360 broke pretty fast too. Eneloops are the way to go

u/hulksmash865 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

The X will handle the games AND movies! First I've heard of the S being better at movies. Get some rechargeable batteries like this: I had been using the official play and charge kit until getting these and they last much longer! All the Xbox One controllers should work with the X. Not sure about 3rd party controllers, but the Microsoft brand will. If you can, purchase an extended warranty. But definitely the X is a great system and great timing since Red Dead Redemption 2 is coming out!

u/Darth_Firebolt · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Zebralight H52w. Goes from .01 lumens all the way up to 300 for $64. Spend an extra $17 and get some Panasonic Eneloop (or eneloop pro) batteries and an advanced charger. A tad over budget but you'll have a powerful, long lasting, neutral tint light that can run on any AA size battery, and it can easily be used as a headlamp with the included band, and it has a removable, multi-position pocket clip.

u/skul219 · 3 pointsr/telescopes

I have a couple of computer fans I use on my dob and I use a battery like this:

And I bought the DC connectors like this:

Wired the fan to the connector and it now plugs directly into the battery. I built a splitter with one in connection and 4 out connectors so I can plug multiple fans using only the one battery. The battery lasts several nights, charges easily and is fairly small and portable.

u/wav4rm · 3 pointsr/diysound

I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this:

I built a mid sized boombox using these:

Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.

One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total

u/darkapollo1982 · 3 pointsr/telescopes

I have a 5i and it will run all night on this. Plus the plug is correct for the mount. Literally just plug it in and you are set.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/rexingtron · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I've had plenty of success with the Windcamp kit. I have yet to run it down completely while doing SOTA, but I don't usually operate for more than an hour. That said, I'm running 5w SSB the whole time.

For more juice, and if I care a little bit less about weight, I'll run the internal rechargeable pack in combination with this lovely little pack. There's also the option of just removing the internal pack in this case, but I like having a "reserve" battery.

At some point, I'd like to have a BioEnno LiFePO4, perhaps 6-9 amp-hours or so. And I'd combine this with some sort of solar charging setup. But for now, the above seems to cover most of my needs.

u/sphykik · 3 pointsr/diysound

You can get one that outputs 12v already - something like this: TaletCell

u/fullmetaljackass · 3 pointsr/diysound

I'd just buy this or something similar.

u/Testprints · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Here is one of the LED strips that I use. When you open up the packaging hold your breath as you get a nice smell of the factory the thing came out of, and it is depressing. leaving it over night to air out.

The LED track I currently use for the frame

I purchased some good adhesive backed Velcro from Big Box store and cut everything to fit the bike frame for easy install and removal if a light strip goes out.

I use this battery pack for the bike frames and the smaller ones they sell for the wheels.

There are some basic extender clips off amazon for the LEDs that "work" to connect the frame parts together but short of soldering all the extender clips are hit and miss, so find what works for you.

For the wheels you can do one of three things for installing.

Buy lots of strong adhesive ( a glue gun doesn't work that well and can melt/boil the glue tape the strips come on) and physically fit a square into a round hole. Glue the strips to the wheel frame so the lights are facing to the center but at an angle of the wheel. While the strips are bendable they are only bendable going up and down not side to side so parts of the strip start to bow-out but those spots can be forced into place with enough adhesive. The strips will start to separate from the wheel frame because physics dictates this can't work. It is what I did first to both wheels. The front side didn't work out but the back wheel has been holding together for the past couple of months.


Buy some clear flexible tubing from local box mart and some zip ties. Keep the protective adhesive tape on the LED strip so it can still slide into the tubing and use the zip ties to attach the tubing to the spokes. It will look like shit but it gets the job done. Also cut zip ties are sharp so it kind of turns the wheel into a shitty chainsaw.

buy a 3D printer to make clips to hold the LEDs to the spokes.

As for the power supply I temporary have some Velcro holding them to the wheel spokes, that I am trying to fix.

u/Jophaaa · 3 pointsr/MilwaukeeTool

I couldn't find the exact one I had bought but here is one that looks identical from amazon and around the same price.

u/starbot1 · 3 pointsr/craftymighty

Sure it does... plenty available, though not sure they have this specific model in CA: TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/VeteranKamikaze · 3 pointsr/Vive

Lighthouses screwed into these and then clamping them on to these. Quick but stable setup and breakdown with minimal footprint.

I may, at some point, have a dedicated roomscale space, in which case I'll permanently mount the lighthouses, but for the time being this seems like the best way to go, it's relatively cheap and the footprint is virtually zero.

u/hargabyte · 3 pointsr/Vive

Ok Here is what I bought. Im going to post this again when I get them. It all comes on Friday.
and 2 of these

I bought it so I can travel with my Rift easily. Its not the cheapest solution but I think it will be worth it. I will post pictures and my thoughts on them when it all gets here. The only down side I can see is having 2 red poles in your living room but I will probably just paint them an off white color to match a normal wall color.

EDIT: I also considered using mounting tape. Gorilla glue seems to make the highest rated one. I will probably pick up a role of that as well and see how it well it work. I might use it for temporary use but I would be concerned about long term use. Their is talk that the vibration from the lighthouses could cause it to come loose from the mounting tape.

u/Abcdqfr · 3 pointsr/Vive

$15 pole:
$8 mount:
$10 mount:
Both mounts work great, solid. First one needed some glue to lock up an unnecessary spring-tensioned adjustment mechanism, fine after that

u/Mucker2002 · 3 pointsr/Vive

There's also this kind if find it easir to mount to a curtain rail. I have one on a rail and one in the wall.

Just type 'camera mount' into amazon, 100's of choices.

u/miguel228 · 3 pointsr/microscopy

I use one of these and it works great. Takes a bit of adjusting though to get the cam on view. Great low cost option.

Gosky Universal Cell Phone Adapter Mount

u/KrakaJap · 3 pointsr/Astronomy

I've been doing the same thing.


Luminos eyepiece set (wide FOV)

cellphone mount

u/Shufflebuzz · 3 pointsr/gadgets

What's an iPhone telescope?

You could get an ordinary telescope and get a mount to attach your iPhone to it, so you can take pictures though the eyepiece.
Like this

u/xMoneyShadow · 3 pointsr/astrophotography

I use this one personally. Works great.

u/oneforce · 3 pointsr/astrophotography

It can be pretty hard to get everything lined up if you're trying to hold the phone up to the eyepiece, especially if the focal length is smaller. The easiest way that I've found is to use the smallest focal length eyepiece such that your phone's camera can only see the lens and there is no rim showing. Then, to hold it steady in that centered position, it's handy to have a phone camera mount like this one. I reserve one eyepiece and align everything in daylight, which is less frustrating. When I want to take a picture, I align the scope with a different eyepiece, then switch out to the one with the mount attached to it. It's pretty crude but it has worked pretty well so far! I hope this helps.

u/indecisive_maybe · 3 pointsr/labrats

There are a couple products that basically hold your phone in the right place on the eye piece, a few 3D printable designs and things like this . Unless you have a DSLR and the 1 or 2 lens adapters to hook it up to your microscope, your phone is probably the easiest thing to use.

u/-Malice · 3 pointsr/Entomology

Unfortunately, a $300 purpose-built microscope camera is going to have far inferior image quality than modern cell phones. Something like this will drastically help with getting shots through the scope.

That said, I still use this camera more than mounting my cell phone. The image quality is inferior, yes, but the convenience and software available outweigh it. At your budget, you could certainly do both and let him decide when to use which.

Hope that was any help.

u/Other_Mike · 3 pointsr/telescopes

This one!

Edited to add that I got it centered on Polaris first, because chasing and centering on a moving target at 200x is an exercise in frustration.

u/schorhr · 3 pointsr/telescopes

Hello :-)

1) Eyepieces

Are you wearing glasses, do you have astigmatism, what eyepieces do you have (from your other telescopes)?

2-3mm exit pupil can be nice for many deep-sky objects.

  • Depends on your budget, this could be a 15mm Gold line, a Explore Scientific 82° or even one of the 100° eyepieces... Something wide-field is nice.

    And of course just something lower magnification to enjoy wide-field. But depending on the light pollution conditions, do not go over 6-7mm exit pupil. Estimate how dark your sky is.

  • So, a 36mm-42mm 2" wide-angle eyepiece can be very nice to have as overview eyepiece. E.g. the cheaper Erfle (70°, Explore-Scientific, GSO, q70, SWAN...) can work fine, or the more expensive Explore-Scientific 82° if you are willing to spend a bit more. Depending on the wide-angle eyepiece, these will show around 5°, while a 32mm 1.25" Plössl shows a maximum of almost 3° (which is still nice, and at $22.50 for the eyepiece, a lot cheaper).

    Despite it being an ED refractor, don't do it magnification wise. Less 1mm exit pupil does not gain much detail anyway.

  • 7.5mm eyepiece 1mm exit pupil, 80x magnification, but you could get a 6mm (gold line $24-$35), 7mm82° Luminos, or 6.7mm (Explore-Scientific 82° ~$150) for example.

    80mm is limited for visual regarding magnification and seeing faint deep-sky objects due to the small aperture. Personally, I would enjoy the wide-field the most! :-)


    (Exit pupil = eyepiece focal length divided by aperture ratio of the telescope)


    2) Night vision

    Night vision reaches ~30 minutes to reach it's peak and is destroyed within a second. Use a dim(able) red light when reading maps. Cellphones with back-lit displays can ruin night vision even in red/night mode, but there are deep transparency sheets to cover your display.

    Eye patches can help and are cheap, you can get them at drug stores, pharmacies.

    For planets, you do not need to adjust to the darkness. In fact, the planets and especially the moon can be so bright they will ruin your night vision for DSO observations as well.


    3) Astrophotography with iphone

    Consider getting a (used) DSLR.

    For a cellphone, you will need a holder to attach it to the telescope or eyepiece (random link, untested). You will need to take images through the eyepiece. It's easier with low magnification eyepieces as the exit pupil makes it easier to align the phone. Do not use the phone's digital zoom.

    Get an App with more advanced camera settings (not owning an iphone, I don't know if that advice applies to Mac-o-phones and how good the camera settings are regarding exposure and such).

    Use manual focus (or set to infinity) so you don't have to worry about varying sharpness.
    Also see

    Bright objects (moon, planets) are possible, deep-sky is limited to the brighter objects (Andromeda, Orion nebula, but especially star clusters such as h&chi Persei, Plejads... Double stars such as Albireo).


    4) GoTo

    Not having that mount, I'll leave that to someone else. A quick search revealed a lot of videos for that particular mount on Youtube though.



    I would separate the telescope from the mount, put the telescope in a bag.


    Good luck, clear skies! :-)
u/Mr_Romo · 3 pointsr/Cameras

The Sony A6000 Hands down the best in that price range. You are going to want decent audio though so I would recommend also getting something like The Rode Video Micro.

youtube vlogging setups is also a great place to get some really good info!

u/w_yates · 3 pointsr/Cameras

Røde do the best in my opinion, this will be enough for what you asking for as long as you aren't an audiophile:

Also just check if you really need a microphone, most cameras have fairly reasonable quality now, especially for YouTube and such

u/SolMarch · 3 pointsr/videography

[Rode's VideoMicro]( "Rode VideoMicro") may be a good option for your needs. It comes with a fuzzy windscreen which should help reduce wind noise.

You can use a flash bracket (example) to use accessories like microphones and LED lights with your camera. The bracket attaches via the camera's tripod mount and provides you with a couple cold shoe mounts.

u/rebeccaloops · 3 pointsr/youtubers

Two cheap options I’ve used-

This works great on my 5S iPhone but has started crackling with my 6S+ (it improved when I cleaned the headphone jack but wasn’t fully resolved).

This is a pretty solid lapel mic that plugs straight into a phone; I like it and haven’t had any problems with it.

Audacity is a free audio editing program where you can “teach” it the sound of the white noise and then remove that sound from the whole file. It’s more steps but if you want a free option it should at least improve the quality.

u/cfoster5 · 3 pointsr/kindafunny

It's very hard to find a good camera in that price range. If you have a phone that is less than a couple years old, you're probably better to go that route. That said, if you can afford a GoPro, the guys use a GoPro HERO4 BLACK as a backup camera that would be better than a smartphone in most applications. This model's built in mic is said to be much better than the new model that was just released. If you want to use an external mic, you'll need this adapter. You can also find all of their gear in a post I made here, if you're interested.

Edit: If you decide to use a smartphone, this is a pretty good mic that attaches directly to a phone.

u/ragingpandaberr · 3 pointsr/videography

I'd say use your iPhone for video - I don't think $200 is going to get you anything better.

Invest your $ in audio - nothing worse than echo-y or garbled sound no matter what the video quality is.
Maybe this thing from Rode for the iPhone?

iPhone videos can look amazing if you're willing to do a little editing/color grading.

u/RandomChileanGuy · 3 pointsr/chile

Has considerado microfonos de clip como este o este otro?

En general es cierto que los audifonos "gamer" son pesimos en su calidad de sonido y te conviene mucho mas comprar un audifono dedicado y un microfono aparte (sea el de una webcam, uno de clip, etc).

Hace tiempo que no reviso como esta el mercado de audifonos en Chile y no se que haya bueno en este momento, pero te recomiendo que revises por Mediaplayer o ve si hay algo decente en el [cyber monday de audiomusica] ( Por ejemplo, aun estando en oferta en Amazon, los sennheiser HD600 te salen como 280 lucas (impuesto + envio) y ahora en audiomusica tan a 245. Algo es algo. Yo tengo los HD600 y los recomiendo por completo, pero se que es un lujo gastar sobre 100 lucas en audifonos (y mas 200)

En general te sugiero que intentes buscar audifonos abiertos circumaurales. El posicionamiento de los sonidos mejora harto y eso ayuda en muchos juegos que aprovechen bien los canales de audio y el rango dinamico. No obstante, creo que casi cualquier audifono de marca reconocida tipo beyerdynamic, sennheiser, grado, etc le ganan si o si a cualquier audifono "gamer".

Lo ultimo que puedo decir es que averigues bien sobre que tipo de sonido buscas, y aparte de los juegos consideres que generos de musica escuchas. Hay gente que le gustan mas detalles en los graves, otros que sean neutros, algunos los prefieren con boost en graves y agudos, y asi. Puede que yo considere cierto tipo de sonido como "el mejor" pero tu los encuentres horribles. Recomiendo que te informes en lugares de reviews e idealmente pruebes algunos modelos (como en mediaplayer que te dejan probar casi todo) para tener una "referencia" a futuro.

u/DwarvenLabs · 3 pointsr/DungeonsAndDragons

Not at all!
We currently use:
3x Logitech C922x Pro Webcams
7x 3.5mm Lapel Mics
7x 3.5mm to 1/4in adapters
2x Mini Audio Mixers
1x USB-to-1/4in Cable
1x 1/4in to 1/4oin cable

For video, we just use the webcams like normal.

For audio, we daisy chain the two mixers with the 1/4in cable, and plugin each mic to their adapters and into the mixers. Use the 1/4in to usb cable to capture the audio out of the last mixer, and now you have a dial for each audio line, but only one audio input device to your PC.

It's not the best solution, but it is way less expensive than buying the hardware video encoding and digital audio mixers would have cost (by factors of 10).

u/honkimon · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

That would probably work just fine but I bought the official Apple one to be safe

Apple Lightning to USB3 Camera Adapter

u/Aperture_Kubi · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

So, anyone know of a USB3 > USB Hub + Ethernet adapter that works with iPads?

I have the one I linked, and with the Thunderbolt Camera adapter (which gives a full size USB port, and a passthrough Thunderbolt for power) I get a message that says it's not supported.

However I know a card reader, keyboard, and usb>ethernet adapter do all work, but I want to have as few cables and components as possible. Ethernet simplifies things for me as far as the network goes. I'm trying to replace a similar setup of which the hardware cost is $1k+ USD.

u/NoiseFloored · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

What kind of keyboard do you have? If it has USB-MIDI, the cheapest way would be to plug it to your ipad with the USB Camera Adapter, and then connect the headphone output of your ipad to your amp. When you say "patches", what are you referring to?

u/shakespearefalstaff · 3 pointsr/podcasting

So audacity is kind of a pain. If your computer is Mac, I’d just use GarageBand, it’s completely adequate. If it’s a PC, I’m not sure what free software besides audacity is out there... I’m sure there’s something, it’s just not a world of computing I’ve lived in for a while.

As far as recording into an iPad, I know Jason Snell does (or has done) this. Here’s a link to a post he made about it: . You may need an adapter... something like this: Apple Lightning to USB3 Camera Adapter . Or the USB-C version if you have a newer iPad.

The best (and maybe only) app to do this realistically is Ferrite: . It’s made specifically for recording podcasts and editing on iPads. I believe that there are posts on there site that can help.

Getting it on iTunes depends a bit on your hosting. Some hosting has built in ways of submitting the feed to iTunes, others you submit it manually. Do you know where you’re hosting?

Some options:

> If you have a Squarespace site, you can host it there on the site you already pay for and submit manually.

> You can host it on a top-tier site like Libsyn, which requires you to pay monthly for storage space. I believe they have some built in submission tools, but I could be wrong.

> I think you can still host for free on soundcloud, but pretty sure it’s limited and you can submit it manually.

> is free and has really great built in tools for submitting your podcast. It walks you through it. Probably a good option to not spend money on hosting until you really know what you want your podcast to be! I spent a hundred bucks hosting a defunct podcast for a year, when I ultimately just rolled it onto anchor to (somewhat) preserve it and cut my losses. My two still running podcasts are both on anchor because they’re small (100-150 downloads an episode) and until (or if) they ever get bigger, it just isn’t worth it to me to pay for hosting. Anchor was just bought by Spotify though, so there is a bit of a morale quandary... being a fan of open podcasting vs hosting on a site owned by a pay walled podcast client.

Hope that helps! I’ll answer any other questions you have as you’re diving in!

u/Tagruato_Corporation · 3 pointsr/ipad

Yeah lightning to USB adapter works for USB hard drives and flash drives. Just remember to get the adapter with lightning charging in case the device needs the extra power.

EDIT: This one

u/STR4NGE · 2 pointsr/oculus

Others have mentioned this before. I have one of these. I use it on all my camera lenses and will likely use it on my DK2 when it comes. The brush is for cleaning any dust/dirt. The concave microfiber tip is for polishing. No dirt will get on the tip as you cap it when you are done. I highly recommend.

u/ctornync · 2 pointsr/steelers

Did you take these OP? They're awesome. You might benefit from one of these but they're still awesome either way.

u/GuilhermeFreire · 2 pointsr/DSLR

If it isn't interfering in the pictures, it isn't on the lens.

It can be:

  • On the primary mirror
  • On the Focusing screen
  • On the eyepiece
  • On the electronic display that shows you your focusing points and information inside the viewfinder.
  • On the Pentamirror

    The first three are really easy. First you try with a blower/air pump.

    If didn't helped, you can try to use a soft brush

    After these, if not clean, you can use a cleaning solution as Eclipse on a coffee filter or on a pecpad.

    The eyepiece you can use a soft microfiber cloth to clean

    You can look for tutorials of how to clean the focusing screen on your camera. it is somewhat nervewracking, but is doable.

    If this doesn't help, possibly the display that show the information inside the viewfinder is busted or the pentamirror is dirty. This should it be covered in the warranty. It wont impact the quality of your photos, but also it won't be a easy fix that you can DIY.

u/Timo_KC · 2 pointsr/PSVR

And here is a lens pen that works well. I would get both, personally. The lens pen removes oils and smudges, but the lens cloth can be good for leaving some of the residue that the lens pen leaves. Be sure to use the brush or some kind of air to blow away dust particles prior to using either. Small particles have the potential to scratch your lens if you rub them in.

u/grittycotton · 2 pointsr/Vive

with cloth, i'm worried of damaging the lens alignment in HMDs.

has anyone tried using a pen lens cleaner on theirs?

u/1N54N3M0D3 · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

I use this one: Nikon 7072 Lens Pen Cleaning System

Pretty much, you use the brush to clear anything on the lens that would scratch the lens if you were to rub it around the lens.

Then you flip it around, and screw the cap back and forth a few times to prepare the pad to be used on the lens.

Then you put the pad flat on the lens, and do small circles around the lens until it is clean. And I usually screw the cap on and off a few times for each lens.

Just make sure nothing is stuck on the pad before rubbing against your lens.

I'd also like to say that it works wonderfully for glasses, too. Especially for fingerprints and other things that my microfiber cloths had trouble with. And much easier to get into the corners of my squared lenses with.

u/phenom0205 · 2 pointsr/PSVR

So like everyone in this sub bought the one I linked below and it's been out of stock for weeks. So you can place an order and wait or find another one. I have an order for one but I might look for another. Hope this helps

u/cozalt · 2 pointsr/PSVR

Congrats on joining the community!

I'm no expert by any means and will just be providing my personal opinion/experience, but to answer your questions:

Question 1: Keep the headset out of direct sunlight, especially the inner lens. Some use the box to keep it stored, I purchased this which works great. Clean the lens with glasses cleaning cloth or lens pen cleaner, such as this.

Question 2: I wear glasses as well. I noticed after months of use a tiny scratch on the lens but it doesn't affect my gameplay at all. There are solutions out there I'm sure, but I have not invested into any. PSVR is considered safe to use with glasses.

Question 3: I don't know the worst game, but I can give you a small list of the ones I've played and would say are worth getting in no particular order:

Resident Evil,
Farpoint (/w Aim Controller),
Playstation VR Worlds,
Robinson: The Journey,
Dirt Rally (/w Steering Wheel),
StarWars Battlefront (for X-wing mission - I found it cheap for $10),
Until Dawn: Rush of Blood

It's not hard to find amazing upcoming game, as this sub posts them often. Just to name a few I'm stoked for:

Skyrim VR,
Ace Combat 7,
Doom VR

Hopefully this helps you - goodluck!

Edit: I missed your last question. I linked already to the VR stand. Get a pair of Move controllers and Aim Controller.

u/theinfamousj · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips

Alternatively, I have used this exact lens pen when I go backpacking. The marker-like end is the one that you use on your lenses and the brush end might be good for a camera but not so much for eyeglasses.

u/kickstand · 2 pointsr/photography

Snow is no problem once the camera cools down to ambient temperature. The snow will only melt if the camera is warmer than ambient temperature, like when you bring it in the house. Brush the snow off before you enter the house, you'll be fine.

If you feel a need for more protection, spend $6 on an Optech Rainsleeve.

u/lukejc1 · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

It's up to you whether or not the extra protection from weather sealing is worth the money. It was for me but honestly you'll probably be ok with plastic grocery bag route or these rain covers. Both work well enough.

u/digiplay · 2 pointsr/photography

OP/TECH USA 9001132 Rainsleeve - Original, 2-Pack

Also Get a filter for the end of your lens. Don't buy the cheapest one going but you don't need a b+w either. You can get decent uv filters for reasonable money. There are pages dedicated to discussing filter clarity and options for size. I don't know what size your lens is but you can check this out. It will Give you any info you need I'd think l. Not only will it help rain stay out but it will allow you to wipe off the filter without concern of scratching the lens.

Here are the results of you just want to see which ones won and by what margin. Pay attention to the model numbers. Many manufacturers have a bunch of models

This is a modern filter that rates very well for 72mm lenses. And it's under $50

u/rogue_smackles · 2 pointsr/photography

a rainsleeve would work great -


u/greenistheneworange · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

A rain sleeve and an umbrella do it for me. I've also superclamped a camera to the umbrella to aid with holding it (too few hands).

u/la-fours · 2 pointsr/photography

I use this but it's very easy to make your own.

u/Kethean22 · 2 pointsr/canon

Optech has cheap ones that you can pick up at a local store. They are shaped for a camera and run about $7 for a 2-pack. I reuse them and they are pretty good for as cheap as they are! You can find them here.

u/cialowicz · 2 pointsr/photography

You can fashion something similar to an OP/TECH rainsleeve out of a very large plastic or zip-lock bag.

Bad weather makes good photos!

u/Talki · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Fotodiox is the go-to adapter brand. I have both the expensive and the cheap adapters and honestly couldn't tell you the difference. They both work exactly the same!

u/mattbellphoto · 2 pointsr/photography

If you know what to look for, you can get a good older dedicated macro lens for less than a hundred.

The oldest Nikon "F" lenses do not work on most any modern Nikon camera. So, they tend to be some of the cheapest good quality lenses.

Pick up one, plus a $10-$30 F-to-EOS filter, and you're all set.

u/ctron3 · 2 pointsr/photography

Yeah. I bought my canon xsi off cregslit complete with a canon 18-55mm and a 55-250mm with 3 SD's a tripod and a case for $450 and i have never had any complaints with that gear.

also if your looking for a nice lens but don't have the dough you can pick up one of these for pretty cheap and get 40 year old nikon lenses that are just as sharp as new ones for much much less.

or if you go nikon you don't have to use the ring. :P

also I would like to see your work! I haven't read the whole thread to see if you posted a link of some kind, but i would love to see some of ur stuff!

u/Lasker_ · 2 pointsr/photography

So, I've got a Rebel T7i that I use for stop animation projects. After some research, it's been recommended that I use a Nikon lens with the T7i in order to reduce some of the flicker issues that occur with stop animation.

Would this adapter allow me to attach a Nikon - AF NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8D Standard lens:

to my canon body?

Thanks for any suggestions/comments.

u/magus424 · 2 pointsr/photography


Since it's an older style lens with aperture ring (as opposed to G lenses without one), any cheap F->EF adapter should work, such as this Fotodiox one:

u/fotolyfe · 2 pointsr/videography

I have this adapter for my Nikon 1.4 full manual glass. Works really well and for video I prefer my Nikon lens over my Canon Nifty Fifty.

I wouldn't mind most adapters as long as they don't need glass adapters. Meaning I wouldn't get FD glasses for EF mounts.

So far, I know, this is what works quite well for video and without losing focus to infinity:

Nikon lens -> EF Mount

EF Lens -> M43 Mount

Nikon Lens ->M43 Mount

Pentax Lens -> EF Mount

This is based on fully manual lens though.

u/GeoffPortnoy · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Would getting a Nikon lens/adapter be a good idea as apposed to settling for a wider focus? This is what I'm looking at:



u/av4rice · 2 pointsr/photography

Here's the cheaper one without focus confirm, same company (they are popular for adapters):

u/videoworx · 2 pointsr/videography

This adapter.

Look here for lenses.

From the above link, I would look for 24 or 28mm 2.8 lenses. It doesn't matter if they are non AI, AI, or AI-S, since that's only an issue for people who own Nikon bodies. The cheapest will be the 28mm f/2.8 E series, followed by the non-AI, then AI-S lenses. They are all fine on your camera, but the AI-S is arguably the best. As for KEH, even their ugly lenses are quite good, and I highly recommend buying from them.

Just remember, you will be in full manual mode. That means setting the f-stop yourself, in addition to the focus. If you plan on buying more than one, I'd also suggest buying an adapter ring for each one, so you spend less time unscrewing/screwing.

u/UndedDisfunction · 2 pointsr/CowChop

according to to the faq:
> Cams: 2 of these:
> 1 of these:
> Mic:
> Lavs:

Pretty sure the cameras are out of date tho and they use Lumix GH5s now but I can't say either way for the other stuff. Think they have Rode mics to go with them and a boom as well.

u/cunningwatermelon · 2 pointsr/skyrimmods

Sorry for the delayed response: Yeah, step one is to usually invest in a decent cardioid mic and an audio input. Here are the ones I'd recommend for getting started. Good enough quality to be just under professional tier, though capable of producing professional quality sound, but not so expensive as to offer you features you don't need for years to come:
Audio Interface (to be able to plug that or any other professional mic into [XLR input]):

and this is optional but can be helpful to understand the true sound of your recordings, monitors:
(either the 3.5 or 4.5 would be totally fine)

Aside from t hose t hings, the only other things you'd need to get set up would be soundproofing foam, either putting panels up around your space, or around the mic itself. Conversely, you could set up inside a closet full of clothes and accomplish the same task for free, cable length and space permitting.

Good luck!

u/posidonking · 2 pointsr/audiodrama

Hi, I'm the co-editor for podcast production and I think I may be able to help with your questions.

Mics: Depending on your current recording space you have 2 options, Condenser or Dynamic Microphones. Condenser mics are very good at picking up detailed sound but they are most of the time to sensitive to be used without some sort of sound proofing or acoustic treatment to the room as they are really good at picking up even the quietest of sounds. but if you have a treated room or a acoustic shield then that might be an option to look into. Dynamic mics however are really good at capturing loud sounds and because of that, they are mostly used for singing and instruments. however they are also often used for narration because you don't have to go all out with the sound proofing as they are less sensitive. now since my talents are in post production, I don't need an expensive microphone to get a good sounding recording, so I just use a $20 Dynamic microphone from amazon, they're great in fact I bought 4 of them for a podcast I was doing, I can give samples if you would like. As for price, Condenser are on average going to cost more because of everything that goes into it. Dynamic mics are older tech, so they aren't as expensive. my friend who does the vocal recordings has the Rode NT1a, a rather expensive condenser microphone $229, and I record using the Behringer Xm8500 Dynamic mic $20 on amazon. so it's really up to your budget and editing know how.

Rode NT1a


You will also need a audio interface if you're going to be using XLR mics, which I highly recommend you do. Here's the one I use, although you may not need that many channels


Software: I use Adobe Audition around $20 a month subscription. However I have in the past used Audacity and if you know how to use it, you can get some really good results. If you are looking to get into industry standard software I would recommend Pro Tools also I think $20 a month.


Yes, people who don't use a studio generally record to their preferred Audio editor and mix/edit then upload to a hosting website for their podcast, the production I work for uses Blogtalk which I think has a free option. However there are many options for hosting websites (E.g. Acast, Podbean, Libsyn, Ect.) I recommend reading this website for hosting options.


People typically find voice actors through Casting Calls which they themselves set up or by going through a casting call website, and yes voice actors are typically paid although some may offer volunteer if they're just getting out there or for charity. For the sake of professionalism always assume you are paying for their services, that way if they decline payment then that's their choice as an actor.


If your podcast gains enough listeners then yes, you can definaty make money through podcasting, but you should never go only for making money. because one, it takes a while ti gain listeners and two it's just no fun if your only in it for the money.


I remember being exactly where you are now asking these questions, so If you need any help don't hesitate to ask. I hope this helps :)




Mics: I use a $20 Dynamic mic which gives me great recordings, although there are more expensive and higher quality options out there.

Software: I use Adobe Audition to edit everything but there are a myriad of other audio editing options out there including the free software Audacity.

Yes it can be as simple as Record/Edit/Post depending on what your doing and the type of podcast your going for.

You find actors through casting calls, and typically you always pay actors for their services. Always expect to pay.

Yes you can make money through podcasting depending on your listenership and Ads and things like that.

u/danceswithwhitegirls · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

i recorded these on a shure sm88 which is only 88 on amazon. Its the same mic i did the vocal drop on Pitbull dont stop the party. if your looking for something a little more upmarket but still cheap and good cop the . ITs the same mic that Nick Hook (who works with Brenmar and everybody) that he used to record Azealia Banks 212.

u/a13xand3r · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn This product plus any free DAW (like audacity) will give you amazing sound results. It can be used both for piano (overhead) and vocals.

u/wilb0b · 2 pointsr/letsplay

Well if echos are an issue maybe look into dynamic mics for now. Maybe try out the Shure SM48 and see how that fairs, you'll save money getting the non-on/off switched one. Then I would invest in materials later on to sound treat your recording area to help remove echos. Then you can step up to condenser mics that pick up a much clearer / more accurate sound once you get the room treated.

Our group uses 3 Rode NT1A's which are condenser microphones for reference if you want to hear how they sound.

IMO dynamic mics only work with certain people, most of the time they make people sound nasaly and sound like a sports commentator but some people have the right voice that it doesn't effect them.

u/derashitaka · 2 pointsr/DnD

Looks good, thanks! :) I've got the Rode NT1A though for my other recording needs and I think that'll do just fine.

u/Kinetic_Wolf · 2 pointsr/NewTubers

I use the fifine 669b, it was $40 on amazon (canada). You can find my channel in my profile if you'd like to hear example of quality. Personally I'm baffled at how good it is for the price. I doubt you could hear an upgrade from any microphone until you start hitting the $300 range like this one: Rode NT1-A

u/ThatSoundGuyChris · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends

Okay this is going to be a long post, so here goes.


If you really want to get into sound design, youre going to need a few essentials. A DAW (Digital Audio Workstation), an audio interface, a handheld recorder, and a microphone.


As far as a DAW goes, there's a few alternatives you can go with. I personally use Avid Pro Tools for near everything I do, but also mess around with Reaper. I've found that most studios will use one of these two. Most DAWs will have a pretty steep learning curve, so be ready for that.

Pro Tools First is the free version of Pro Tools. It has a lot of limitations, but for starting out it should be fine. If you want less limitations it costs big money, but I'm sure you can find a crack or two as long as you don't use it commercially.

Reaper is starting to grow on me lately. You can customize it to your needs, and the full version is only $60. You can also just deal with a popup everytime you open the program for ten seconds and use it for free. I mainly prefer Pro Tools over this because the video engine in Pro Tools is much better. But for batch editing multiple sound files, Reaper is muuuuuch better.


Audio Interface

This basically takes over as an intermediary between high quality audio and your computer. You can plug a microphone right into it to record sound straight to your computer. You can do this with a USB microphone as well, but the quality is a million times better with one of these.
I would recommend either the Behringer UMC22 or the more advanced Focusrite Scarlett Solo. Both will do the trick, I just prefer the mic pres on the Focusrite a bit more.

Handheld Recorder
Handheld recorders allow you to record anything you want to without having to deal with any cables. They should be compact but durable.

The Tascam DR-40 is a great intro recorder. It was the first recorder I got 5 years ago, and it still holds up. I've dropped this thing so many times and it still powers through.
Another favorite is the Zoom H4N. This was a favorite among most of my classmates as it was the one my school supplied, but I didn't feel like going through the checkout process all the time so I saved up and got the Tascam. It has a newer version, the Zoom H6, which is pretty slick, but comes at a higher price point. It also comes with some interchangeable microphone capsules so you can get different types of recordings. I'll cover more of this later.
I'll leave off with the recorder I have now, the Sony PCM-M10. This thing is a godsend. It's discontinued due to a newer version coming out, but you can find this guy on eBay for around $300-400. It's smaller than a phone, and the sound quality is amazing. If you have the money to shell out for this guy, definitely go for it. Every sound designer inn the industry I know swears by it.


So the first thing you need to know is that there's a load of different microphone types. Its a lot to cover, so I'm just going to link you to this article that will cover the basics of what you need to know. Basically I would recommend different microphones for different things, all depending on what you're trying to capture.
A good all-around microphone is the Shure SM57/Shure SM58. They're essentially both the same microphone. But these things will LAST. Like,people have run over them with trucks and they sound fine. Definitely a good starting point

For vocal recordings, I would recommend the Rode NT1A. This mic is a great starting point for capturing voice, and is durable to boot.

For capturing foley/field recording, I would go with the Rode NTG2. Its a shotgun mic with great quality for the price, and never let me down in all the years Ive been using it. I won its successor, the NTG3, in the Riot Creative Contest a few years back, but still use the NTG2 from time to time when I need to.

Some Extra Stuff

Theres a lot of cool, free plugins out there. I've used both Blue Cat's and Melda's plugins, and they all get the job done with a bit of tweaking.

As far as building up a sound library goes, I would recommend recording literally everything you can around you and playing with those sounds with plugins as a good starting point for building up a library. There's a few resources out there that give out free SFX every once in a while, GDC has had a bundle go up for 2016, 2017, 2018 and 2019. You can also check out the BBC Sound Effects Library. Be careful about getting libraries and bundles though, as they add up quick. I have to go through my sound library soon, and I probably have around 500,00+ files but only really need a few thousand.

For all your sounds, you're going to want a file manager. A great and free one is Mutant. You just add the directory where you downloaded your sounds to, let it load them in, and voila. You can search easily for what you need.

Hopefully, all this was somewhat helpful to you, or to anyone else reading this who's interested in sound design!

u/lumpofclay · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

I was looking for an interface a few months ago as well and eventually bought the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. I have been REALLY satisfied with it and do recommend it highly. Its preamps have been praised highly and I also think they are very good and I am convinced that you get very good bang for your buck value! The sound quality is excellent, it's easy to install and a joy to work with.

However you should be aware of the two following points that get mentioned often:

u/harbinjer · 2 pointsr/photography

Ok. All the recent Canon cameras can take a cheap interval timer, which allows you to do star trails, nightscapes and wide field pictures. It will also be necessary for deep sky images, but that that you'll also want some way to track the movement of the earth. Pentax's K-r and K-5 can take a GPS unit that does this, which is nifty. But you're limited in the focal length and time you can expose for. A more robust solution is a German equatorial mount, like for a telescope, but you wouldn't need a telescope. If you get a sturdy one, that can track for a long time. But it's heavy and requires some setup. The K-5 can also take the cheap inteval timer, but for the K-r, you'll need one of those, and this, which someone on here just recently told me about. It uses the IR port of the K-r for shooting. It looks cool but I haven't heard about any first hand experience with it.

As far as lenses go, as I said elsewhere, the Canon 18-55 IS is decent. Their 10-22mm is also good for really really wide angles, but expensive. The 50 f/1.8 is cheap and great optically, but at 50mm, you can only image about 12 seconds without trails, unless you point towards the north star(or south celestial pole). Since the stars move less there, you can image longer. You can use many old prime lenses to save money like M42 screw mount, Pentax, Nikon, or Olympus with just a metal adapter. But you can't use old manual focus FD mount Canon lenses, they wont focus to infinity. If you get a Pentax, you can use all old k-mount lenses, and m42 mount lenses with a cheap adapter as well. Old prime lenses are usually much better than the old zoom lenses.

To save money you could also get a used Canon XS better yet an XSi. They are both decent for astro. You definitely want Live view to help in focusing, which they both have it.

Some good concrete advice here:!.html
here . For more stuff. Also have a look at the forums' astrohphotography section.

Let me know what further questions you have.

u/SickSalamander · 2 pointsr/photography

I prefer the $17 version

u/stevesy17 · 2 pointsr/videos

On the side of your camera there is a little port that looks like a smaller headphone jack. You get a remote control that plugs into that. Then you set the remote to take a picture every X seconds for Y shots. For instance, you could set it to take a picture every 6 seconds for 300 shots, which would take 30 minutes. Once you have your pictures, you use video editing software to create a video out of the frames, and voila, a time lapse video is born. In this case, you would have condensed 30 minutes into about 10 seconds, at 30 frames per second. That make sense?

Example remote [amazon]

The upper port on the left

u/t-ara-fan · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

The biggest bang for the buck is a tracker. It makes your pics 50x better. Even an older camera like the 30D with a kit lens on a tracker is better than a sweet 6D with a fast prime lens on a tripod.

Allow me to refer to my comparison of exposure times. Again ;)

With a modest telephoto lens you are limited to a couple of seconds exposure. Compare that with what you see at 60 seconds in my example above.

Tracker's are pretty simple. Add an intervalometer, so you can get a lot of vibration free photos.



u/TheDevitalizer · 2 pointsr/photography

I'd grab an intervalometer from Amazon, and if possible set your focus ahead of time (set up your bike in the spot you want focus) use f/8 if possible. Have the intervalometer to start ripping away photos (can have it go continuously until manually stopped), make a run or two and go check it afterwards.

u/SC-Viper · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography
  • I'm probably posting a cliche photography gift here but I absolutely love mine: Lens Mug

  • Can't go wrong with a BlackRapid Strap

  • If your brother takes a lot of landscapes and doesn't already have this must have tool in his gear which he should: Camera Remote Timer

  • If he's always on the go and seems struggle w/ carrying his tripod everywhere, I recommend getting him a Gorilla Pod

  • If he doesn't already have a great backpack for travelling while he is shooting his landscapes, I recommend Amazons Backpack for holding his gear. It's essentially a generic version of Canon's basic backpack.

    You can also find some fairly cheap "like new" film cameras on Craigslist along with some film.
    Film cameras are the best and it will probably be very nostalgic to the person you are gifting it to.

    I'm making the assumption that he has a Canon DSLR but you can find most of this gear if he has something like a Nikon, Sony, etc... One thing I love to receive to as a photography gift is more batteries! I use to shoot a lot of landscapes and I could never have enough of these.

    Anyways, hopefully you find something for your brother! Good luck!
u/twoghouls · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

The Canon 450D can do longer than 30 seconds in BULB mode. In manual mode, just keep turning the exposure dial and after 30" you should see BULB. You will now need either software (BackyardEOS) or an intervalometer (something like this) to set the exposure timing in BULB mode.

As for your other question: one 5 minute exposure will resolve more signal than ten 30 second exposures. All other things equal the 5 minute exposure is better, but to get that 5 min. exposure you would probably need a good mount, accurate polar alignment, maybe autoguiding, etc.

u/Thuzel · 2 pointsr/WorldOfWarships

Just sayin

MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 6 PACK

u/Kentilsha13 · 2 pointsr/Surface

I ordered these a while back and they have been amazing, comes with a bunch. I use them for my sunglasses, my GearVR, phone and especially my Surface Pro 4. They clean so well looks like new every time I wipe down before use!

u/Majawat · 2 pointsr/PSVR

I don't see why any decent quality microfiber cloth wouldn't work.

Here's some cheap ones I found for my glasses.

u/brastius35 · 2 pointsr/oculus


Alcohol on plastic lenses is a bad move. Plus these are rough paper which will physically cause abrasions on the lenses over time even if the chemicals don't. Use microfiber cloths like this.

u/SaggyMcSag · 2 pointsr/vita

I suggest buying some cleaning cloths like these -
They are the best for removing dust and finger prints from electronics and you can clean and reuse them.

u/Camera_dude · 2 pointsr/PuzzleAndDragons

Yep, I see that grid pattern of smudges on both tablets I play PAD on.

LPT: Buy a microfiber cloth to wipe your screen. It works better than alcohol or wet wipes to clean off the skin oil that gets left on the screen. Plus, it's safer since you don't expose your device to water or caustic cleaning solvents. Here's an example of microfiber cloth:

There's cheaper ones at Walmart or similar stores, as you don't really need one that's labeled for computer screens (that's just marketing so they can sell you a piece that's 1/4 the size of a normal cleaning rag for 2x the price).

u/Mephistopheplease · 2 pointsr/onaholes

No, I bought a pack of (I had used them in the past for cleaning glasses and they were fantastic). Unfortunately the black ink seems to be bleeding into the TPE.

u/HairySlothKing · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Please invest in a couple of these and use with a spritz of rubbing alcohol on that trackpad and screen. please?

u/AzureSkyEyes · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

The Spray got in contact with the liquid crystals of your LCD and killed them.
What spray (contents?) did you use? For the next display:
Use a microfiber every now and then.

u/Highfro · 2 pointsr/3DS

i use these from amazon

u/occult91 · 2 pointsr/3DS

a good additional gift to whatever you choose is micro fiber cloths, nobody every thinks about how dusty 2 screens can get, here is a link to some i bought and like

u/shiro11s · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

After cutting away at the nub with a design knife I just sand with 1000 or 1200 grit and once the nub is gone I use Tamiya compounds and a microfiber cloth to buff out the sandpaper scratches.

Here is a link to their compounds:

Here is some generic microfiber cloths:

Found a tutorial

u/MagicianMG · 2 pointsr/EDC

This is what I usually have on me.

  1. iPhone 6s with Spigen Tough Armor Case - Case Link
  2. Gerber Edict - Link
  3. Sennheiser Momentum Earbuds - Link
  4. Olight S30R Baton III - Link
  5. Pilot Metropolitan - Link
  6. Expo Wet Erase Marker
  7. Moleskine Pocket Notebook - Link
  8. Radix One Slim Wallet - Link
  9. MagicFiber Microfiber Cloth - Link
  10. Cheap Portable Charger until I upgrade to an Anker Battery
u/JulietBravo_ · 2 pointsr/airsoft

You could also try getting new batteries.

If it's a gopro hero 3 or newer, batteries should be pretty cheap on amazon. Forget the external battery thing, I tried it and it's a PITA to get right, doesn't charge great, and puts more weight on your head. I've just swapped batteries during downtime and my Hero 3 silver performs perfectly. This is what I use.

u/AGuyWithABrokenPC · 2 pointsr/gopro

I have a 3+B, and one of my friends has the 3+S.

side by side you can definately tell the difference between cameras, but the silver is still pertty good.

make sure to get a polarizer filter for the lens, so that snow footage is worth using, otherwise there is very little contrast in the snow.

the camera will get about 1:30 on a battery, so get a couple of spares too. wasabi power is a good brand for reliable low cost batteries.


55mm lens adapter

polarizer filter

heres a quick video demonstrating the difference between a polarizer and no polarizer in the snow:

u/Liberadots · 2 pointsr/gopro

, Suction Cup,Polemount(you'll need the tripod mount for this one too)

Those are my essentials. if you dont want mounts then just get the batteries. if you're going to use the Wi-fi it really drains the batteries and the wall charger is convient

u/ScriptLoL · 2 pointsr/gopro

These. Two [better] batteries + your original gives you about 3.5~ hours of filming at 1080p/60fps. Its also cheaper to buy that than to buy the actual GoPro batteries IIRC.

u/somedude456 · 2 pointsr/gopro
  1. Buy it shortly so you have time to play with it, master the settings, etc.

  2. I would buy some extra batteries. I think many people here have used these with good success: That gives you a car charger, wall charger, and 2 batteries for $25.

  3. This starts with more of a question, but are you taking a cell phone. I would simply to use as a wifi device. I've yet to try this, so maybe someone else can chime in, but if you have a phone with a micso SD slot, you can take the card from the gopro, but it in your phone, and when you're in an area with wifi, like a cafe/hotel/restaurant, you could then upload the files to some sort of online storage site.

  4. At a minimum I would grab a couple extra SD cards anyway. Keep an eye on and you should be able to pick up 32gb class 10 cards for about $25.

  5. ENJOY, and I can't wait to see some footage!
u/gooker10 · 2 pointsr/gopro

He is right on the 1.5hours.

You need more? Here is your answer $25.00 -

u/DesignNomad · 2 pointsr/gopro

Yeah, a lot of us use the Wasabi batteries. They get a very similar life to the original GoPro batteries, and you can get 2 and a charger for around $25 on Amazon.

EDIT: link for you-

u/jnezon · 2 pointsr/gopro

Hero 3, Hero 2 - Still looking for the battery cycling video - I'm sure you can find these on too.. I'm in Canada

u/The__RIAA · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Go for the Wasabi batteries on amazon instead of the GoPro ones. Cheaper, comes with charger, and just as good.

u/chikknwatrmln · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
u/wescotte · 2 pointsr/Vive

Chances are you'll want to angle them down for optimal coverage. You can mount them directly into concrete/brick. Just drill with a masonry bit and use anchors.

However, as another user pointed out if you are putting up shelves and they are wood you could just attach the mounting bracket right to the shelving or purchase a clamp mount like this, this or this. The bolt size is a 1/4 20 which is the standard for consumer cameras tripod mounts so you can find tons of mounting options out there.

If you search a bit you can find tons of mounting alternative threads like this.

u/ArchiMarK · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Tripods or building support systems (combined with a clamp) seem to be the common solution to prevent drilling.

I've also mounted one of my base stations on top of a bookshelf using duct tape and this also works perfectly, though you'll need a shelf in the neighbourhood of your play area in order to be able to do this.

I wouldn't risk just taping them to a wall though. I've been contemplating to use a combination of industrial two-sided tape and nails (much thinner than a screw and it thus makes only very small holes in the wall) but decided to drill in the end, just to be safe.

u/EdenSB · 2 pointsr/Vive

I believe that most people drill them into the wall. You can use the mounts they come with for that and it's probably the closest thing to the 'official' way. That's just a case of put mounts on wall in appropriate place, make markings on holes, drill the holes and put in provided (or other) wall plugs, screw the mount on. Other people put them on tripod-like stands.

I've seen people put them on shelves/etc but in theory I believe they're supposed to be tilted down slightly which could be an issue on a cupboard. You could buy clamps if you've anything to clamp them on.

You could potentially mount them on a heavy L shaped piece of wood or something like that if that would go on top of a wardrobe or the like.

Lighthouses do vibrate slightly, so whatever method you use, it should be secure.

u/AimlessWanderer · 2 pointsr/Vive

I got one of each to give myself some flexibility, both have worked great so far.

Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4

Smallrig® Clamp Mount V1

u/jjSuper1 · 2 pointsr/cinematography

If you want the camera to just see whatever product, and arms/hands, it will need to be as close to directly overhead as possible.

But since you only have one tripod at the moment, I might suggest trying to place the camera as directly over your daughters head as possible. Have her sit, and then position the tripod legs so that the camera can be just above and as much out in front of your daughters head as possible, so that she will basically be sitting under the tripod.

Please secure the tripod, because I was 15 once and the thing might probably get knocked over at one point.

A better solution for this particular angle you mention would be to get two stands and a crossbar, such as those made for holding photographic backgrounds.

Add to that a clamp with 1/4-20 mounting screw and you can safely attach the camera to the crossbar, have it overhead, and not worry so much about things being knocked over. This also get the camera out of the way should you want to setup a second camera for shooting a different angle.


There are better and worse options, and since I don't know which camera you have at the moment, here is a generic type of mount that could work for the situation.

The background stand:

This is something cheap that would get the job done, and with the clamp would allow you to position the camera over the table.

However, if the camera is larger than a basic mirrorless a6300, another solution might be in order.

Here is an overhead tripod that might support a bit more weight if you had a full size DSLR:

The problem being it doesn't allow for great positioning, just like your current tripod.

Hope these ideas help.

u/furluge · 2 pointsr/Vive

Why not use the screw? There's tons of clamps with 1/4"-20 thread that are meant to put lights and such onto various types of poles for film and such. I use them myself to mount my light houses onto vertical braces from harbor freight. (They have a smaller footprint than a light stand or tripod.)

Here's some examples of the ones I'm using.
Pedco 1.5 Ultra Clamp

This will grip even onto a very thin pole. For the record I mount them to these poles. Harbor Freight 2 in 1 Ratcheting Cargo Bar

Here's some other excellent multi purpose clamps but they need a ticker pole to mount.

Limostudios Super Clamp It's a clone of the more expensive manfrotto super clamp. They fit on the blue portion of the brace, not the thinner silver extended portion.

These clamps are pretty universal and you can get a number of different attachments for them. You could screw the lighthouse right on there but you couldn't really aim it without a ball mount or you could get an arm like this or this though that second one might wobble with the lighthouse motor. Arkon makes a good very sturdy clamp I've used to mount camcorders on for years though I've broken lots of the quick mounting plates over time. The arm is much stronger than the superclamp arm I showed earlier. There's also small clamps like this one

Also for the thread as someone else mentioned there are adapters. This is likely the adapter you need as that's the other common screw size you see. but I can't really know without seeing the tripod. Personally I prefer to use clamps and mount to poles anyhow, it gives you a lot of mounting options.

u/noshirtyesservice · 2 pointsr/videography
u/gswart44 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Have you though about trying something like this? I've been using these for a few months now with very good tracking results. I like the small footprint and adjustability/mobility that they allow, without having to put holes in my apartment walls. They do cost a little more than some other mounting options, but I think they're worth every penny.

u/KidKrinkle · 2 pointsr/Vive

Using these tripod mounts you could get away with mounting one on that fire sprinkler pole.

u/jashsu · 2 pointsr/Vive

For those who would rather just throw money at the problem, here are products you can buy from Amazon to get to a similar setup without having to DIY anything:

FastCap 3rd Hand Support System 57-to-144-Inches, 2-pack #3HAND5

Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4 Multi-function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp & Standard 1/4" Screw - 1138

Props for a good low cost solution, though!

u/Cactus_Bot · 2 pointsr/Vive

These clamps

These poles

This is the setup I have in my room right now. One of the poles is in a corner of the room and the other is on my desk stretching to the ceiling. It makes for a nice portable and stable setup.

u/mywowtoonnname · 2 pointsr/Vive

My setup uses 3rd Hand Support System and clamp mount and it's worked great. I've moved it a few times and haven't worried about the effort at all.

u/Moe_Capp · 2 pointsr/Vive
u/MaxwellNick · 2 pointsr/videography

Depends on what you're trying to film. If you're looking to do interviews something like the Aputure A.Lav or RODE smartLav+ work great. They plug into your phone and let you record the sound.

If you're doing something where you want more ambient or background noise (travel videos/etc), I would go for something like the Zoom H1, and then get a Takstar SGC-598 to plug into it. You could mount them both to your camera, or have them off camera somewhere else.

Syncing the audio after is actually really easy. If you're using Premiere all you have to do is drag the video and audio clips onto your timeline, select both clips, right click select Synchronize, select the Audio option at the bottom and then Premiere will sync them both for you. Keep in mind that the video clip will still need audio in order to sync, so you still need to record with the internal camera mic when filming. If you're not using Premiere or software that can sync them together, just make a loud clap on camera (or ask your filming subject to clap) at the beginning of the recording, and then go and sync the clap sound with the frame when your hands come together.

u/ZCatcher · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

If you are a newb and want something that sounds better than an on camera mic, i'd buy this and screw it into a monopod.

I have a videomic too and they are pretty much on par but with a 1/10 of the cost.

Also, it's 3.5mm, so you won't need to get a field mixer.

When your movies get so good that you need better sound, then hire a sound guy or pay $500 for a nice mic.

My opinion.

u/FunnyBunny1313 · 2 pointsr/DSLR

Here’s my 2 cents from someone who has done both professional video and amateur photography. Don’t get any of those kits. Almost everything is cheaper/better quality buying separately.

First, the body. I love the rebel series so I think a T7 is more than fine with what your trying to do right now. As someone who also has a “family camera” (aka I do all the family photos and some video), I personally have a 70D but I have used the T’s a lot and they are decent. My only recommendation is to by a referb from canon directly. They are usually $100-$200 cheaper and (from what I have seen) no difference in quality.

As you rightly pointed out, lenses are going to be the most important and most expensive thing that you buy (more than likely). Personally for a first lens, I would go with a nifty fifty (canon 50mm 1.8). It’s about $100 and it is fantastic for both photos and video for that price point. Plus, unless you are planning on getting a light kit of some sort you will probably want the addition aperture room for low light (unless you are doing video outside). There is a reason why it is the most recommended lens for amateurs. I personally have shot tons of portraits, music videos, and just other general video/pictures with this lens and even though I (now) have a few others I keep coming back to this one.

I don’t know much about audio, but I have heard some decent things about the rode mic. There is also an off-brand version of the rode mix (what I use) called [Takstar](TAKSTAR SGC-598 Interview Microphone for Nikon/Canon Camera/DV Camcorder It seems to be pretty decent for amateur stuff, so it might be good enough for your purposes with the added bonus of being 1/3 the price. But I’m sure that someone can speak more to the audio than I can.

One place to absolutely NOT skimp on/don’t buy in a kit is a tripod. For the most part, the more expensive a tripod is, the better quality it is. Not always true, but for the most part the materials that are used to make tripods are just expensive. If you want a metal tripod, which you probably do since the plastic ones wear out easily and can’t hold much weight.

Anyway, just my thoughts!

u/bongozap · 2 pointsr/videography

For what you're describing, the video camera sounds like it would be sufficient.

Rode's are OK, but I think they're a bit overpriced and not all that awesome for the price. For the money, Takstar makes a widely-touted knockoff that many people feel sounds better. It sells for about $25. Link here:

You also might consider a wired lavaliere mic. There are several on Amazon from about $20-30. I always have a few as backups and frequently use them as primaries, too. Here's one that's pretty highly rated:

Best of luck!


u/Docuwiki · 2 pointsr/gh4

Yeah the reviews are not exactly inspiring me to upgrade yet either. I wouldn't be shocked if the GH5 gets some sort of a patch or Mark II or something, I'm going to wait it out.

You could always get an extension bracket take off the mount and screw one side directly into the H1, and on the other side run a shotgun mic. Believe it or not this can hold its own with the Rode for the price points. I have one I've used as backup before and used the audio professionally. Also if you get a mini tripod you can set that zoom up places and let it roll, or put the windcap on and let your kids play news reporter.

u/british_couple · 2 pointsr/sex

Don't underestimate some peoples' desires towards production quality, though! I bought an external DSLR microphone recently just so our GW-spinoff stuff would be better quality, and I'm beginning to pay attention towards lighting, too.

u/papareu · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

Congrats on your new camera! As a general rule of thumb, having purchased hundreds of thousands worth of gear over my career, it's best to invest in the best glass that your budget can allow. Lenses generally hold their value over time and as long as you take care of them, can last decades. They will certainly outlive your camera. That said, the lens that you've chosen is fine as a starter, but I think you'll quickly outgrow it. Look for a faster lens (lower f-stop) if you can afford it. Personally, I went the route of going with vintage prime lenses that are cheaper but still great quality. I added a Metabones Speedbooster to be able to mount them. Higher up-front cost for you, but if this is more than just a hobby, I think it's a good investment.

The other thing I would add is an onboard microphone. A cheap one that is actually pretty good is this no-name brand one. The built-in microphone is pretty much useless.

Those are the bare essentials, in my opinion. I actually do okay with a handful of EN-EL20 batteries. They're cheap and compact. Just don't expect to record long events or anything beyond 20-30 minutes. You can get an external battery pack for not too expensive, though. If you have the budget, I'd also recommend a cage to protect, provide stability, and get extra mounting points. Hope that helps! Oh, and you may also want to hit up for more info.

u/taylorsloan · 2 pointsr/videography

I would say pretty much do what everyone else has said, but if you are still set on getting a shoe-mount mic, don't get the Rode. Get this thing:

I've used both, as well as a few sennheisers and others mounted on my T3i, and for my money, the Takstar has sounded as good if not better than most of them. Max Yuryev did a video comparing the two:

u/detlef_shrimp · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

i have one of these takstars. for what you're paying, it's a huge upgrade from an onboard mic. there's videos of people compairing it with the rode mics and it holds it own pretty well.

u/indiemarchfilm · 2 pointsr/videography

Rode Shotgun (if its in your price range, there are cheaper) ($200+)
Takstar mic - ($24) got really good reviews and claimed that it's the same manufacturer as the rode?
Recorder: H1 - ($90)
Lav: Rode Smartlav - ($80)
Cheaper Lav - ($18) works just as well
Trrs - Trs adaptor - ($15)

Hope this helps, check out my gear list if you have any questions!

u/acenoguera · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

So heres a curve ball for you. Ive used a ton of mics in the past and have realized that most of them are expensive mainly because of the name. I recently purchased this Takstar mic and have been blown away with its performance. For example, here is a video i did only using this $25 mic. Mind you this audio isnt even edited. I had the AC running which is the constant white noise you hear.

u/Fergvision · 2 pointsr/videography

Don’t forget a mic. this mic should be all you need to get started. It’s a great mic that punches well above its price class. But please don’t forget about audio. I know you stated “I won’t do much of that” but audio is so damn important and this mic is so cheap that you can’t afford not to pick one up. Even for tiny bits of audio it will make your stuff sound 1000times better and audio is often what separates the people with pretty images from people making truly great videos. And definitely a big factor in what separates amateurs from professionals. I guarantee you’ll use/need/want quality audio way more than you think. For under 30$ bucks it will be the best investment you make. Much more important than a new camera IMO.

u/amapatzer · 2 pointsr/Vive

Well in that case if you're going to buy tripods anyway, maybe just start with those and see how well they work for you?

I have these poles:ütze-max-belastbar/dp/B001BWT2PA

And these to attach the lighthouses to the poles:

Tbh. I think they work perfectly fine for me, but I am sure you will be able to find something better. I just bought those because they were cheap and could be delivered quickly and they didn't have horrible reviews ;)

u/EvidencePlz · 2 pointsr/Vive

All instruction comes with the Vive. As a matter of fact, the leaflet iirc explains very little, but at some point you will be directed to a bunch of official online/youtube video where it tells you how to set it up step by step. you can view them right now if you want:

get a pair of either extendable support rods (like these ) or lightstands ( and a pair of clamps ( you will need them if you aren't willing to drill holes on the wall.

u/THALANDMAN · 2 pointsr/Vive

Clamp mount attaches to the lighthouse tracking stations by screwing into one end, and the other end is a clamp that attaches itself to the poles. This is the clamp I used. You need one for each lighthouse so get two.

u/destru · 2 pointsr/Vive

My playspace is going to be the living area of my apartment, so one of my lighthouses is going to be clamped to the rod which holds my curtain to the sliding door and the other is being clamped to a shower rod extended vertically. Total cost was $45. I personally like the shower rod idea because it's a smaller footprint than a tripod but a good priced one can be hard to find that's long enough. Mine extends a bit more than 8 feet.

I ordered two of these: Grifiti Nootle Quick Release Pipe Clamp with 1/4 20 Threaded Head

and one of these (unfortunally they only had the one in stock) : Tatkraft Oscar Extendable Telescopic Shower Curtain Tension Rod L140÷260 cm D 25mm

u/guitaratomik · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Oh yeah! Meant to mention that. I got these camera clamps ( The base stations are compatible with them and they clamp just enough to rest on the top most section of the rod.

u/mthiem · 2 pointsr/Vive

I used these stands FastCap 3rd Hand Support...

And these clamps Grifiti Nootle Quick Release...

And I couldn't be happier with the result. Very highly recommend. Way better than freestanding tripods because they press against ceiling and floor for ultimate stability, preventing loss of tracking during play, and they take up virtually no space if you set them up in the opposite corners of the room.

u/Jerrith · 2 pointsr/Vive

Clamp Mounts:


I believe I found both of these in the recommended section at the end of the Vive DK1 instructions.

u/TiKi-r · 2 pointsr/Vive

A more mobile and easy solution I'm personally going with is using floor to ceiling poles

And pole mounts,

(And if I recall, this is also what Valve recommended in the setup guide at the bottom of it all as well)

EDIT: damn someone already posted these

u/swarmster1 · 2 pointsr/Vive

For reference, it's these:


Pole mounts:

I do like the 2 points of contact. It's something I've been considering. I plan on, at least initially, taking my setup all over (my own personal 'world tour') to show people, so I've been looking for portable equipment that could also be used in my own 'permanent' setup. (One issue with the poles might be if you're somewhere with drop ceilings.)

My other thought is to get a couple GorillaPods (note re: weights, I know the lighthouses are light, but I figure the beefier the Pod, the less likely it'll move over time or allow vibration): (6lbs) (11lbs)

That way if someone has a lamp, shelf, or curtain rod, I'd be set. There might be scenarios where it wouldn't work, though.

u/King_Haxor · 2 pointsr/Vive

I use these bad boys and they're the shit.

Then use these to attach the lighthouses:

They screw in perfectly on the lighthouses. These make it extremely easy to reposition and pack up if you need to. I've taken these on vacation and you can basically set them up anywhere. In my experience, I haven't noticed any difference in tracking between using these or wall-mounting. Worth the $50-$60 for sure.

u/VRising · 2 pointsr/oculus

At home I clamp my sensors to 3 tall lamps I got from Walmart. The 4th is clamped to a cupboard handle. The reason I used clamps is so that I could easily disassembled it but it's still a pain to move and put back up especially if you are going to plan for clean wiring. I would suggest evaluating how often you plan to set up away from home to determine if it's worth it. If it's less than a couple times a year it might be better to just bring a desktop. You will end up with more value and power and a better experience for the majority of your time in VR.

The clamps.

u/Darth_Ruebezahl · 2 pointsr/Vive

This is a picture of my setup with items available from Amazon in Germany.

First of all, I used the vertical tension rods from a wardrobe. You can use the rod without the "arms", though you could possibly use the arms to hang the controllers.

Then I used a Grifiti Nootle pipe attachment for cameras to attach the lighthouses. I twisted the power cable around the tension rod (later, I will use some tape to actually attach it there) - and I was done in under half an hour (of which I probably spent 15 minutes to figure out how to assemble the tension rod).

Advantages of this setup: I didn't have to drill at all, the lighthouses are firmly in place (haven't had to redo room setup yet) and quite high up, reducing the potential for "occlusion spots". I haven't noticed any vibration either. Also, unlike tripods, the tension rods have an extremely small footprint, and they are much closer to the wall. This setup is somewhat "semi-mobile" - you could remove it in a minute and set it up again in 5 minutes. I wouldn't want to do this every day, but to give the occasional demo in other people's homes, it is useful enough. Also, I was not sure if my setup would work, as my lighthouses are now further apart than 5 meters, so I could have changed the setup easily (luckily, it did work).

Only disadvantage I can think of: That tension rod looks somewhat ugly. My wofe gave me a bit of a "WTF?" look. But you have a cable running up the wall anyway, even if you use the mounting set.

The only alternative setup that I might switch to someday is where the lighthouses are attached with the mounting set and the cables are hidden behind white covers. But so far, I am too lazy, so I recommend this tension rod setup to anyone who is equally lazy, or doesn't want to deal with the dirt and noise of drilling or doesn't have the necessary skill (or courage) for it.

u/davedontmind · 2 pointsr/Vive

They look good, but a bit expensive. I went for 2 of these which are less than a quarter of the cost, although I did need to add 2 of these to mount the lighthouse to the pole. Total cost for everything to mount 2 lighthouses: around £46.

Makes my room look a little bit like a building site, but it does mean I can move my setup between my seated gaming room & my room-scale room easily.

u/lastrogu3 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Pretty much this.

I ordered one shipment of these (comes with 2):

and I ordered two of these:

They work great and take up hardly any space at all.

If you have a pretty high ceiling or a ceiling that is angled I would not recommend this setup. I tried setting it up on an angled ceiling and caught it as it fell a minute or two after setting it up.

u/gonne · 2 pointsr/Vive

Instead of tripods, I'm using some very long shower curtain rods.

and pipe clamps:

It works like a charm, easy to set up and move if needed, and is a lot more compact than using a tripod :)

u/qryll · 2 pointsr/Vive

I got two each of this:

and this:

Not the cheapest but it meant I didn't have to drill into the wall and it will be super easy to move / adjust if I ever decide to do that. Plus delivery is pretty quick with Amazon Prime.

u/Shadaez · 2 pointsr/Vive

no, these will go from the ground to the ceiling and stay put via tension, you use clamps

or simply the included wall mounts + some pipe clamps (those cheap metal circle things )

to mount the lighthouse

u/Dumdadumdoo · 2 pointsr/rit

I have a Vive! To set up the lighthouses so that they have practically zero blueprint, buy two 3rd hands (this is a two pack) and two clamps. It's pricey overall, but if you have a Vive you probably can afford it anyways. They'll work perfectly and won't damage anything. Just stick them both in opposite corners, mount the lighthouse near the top using the clamp, and run a wire up to it. You're good to go. Takes up much less real estate than a normal tripod.

u/SeBBBB974 · 2 pointsr/Vive

here's a link of the contractor pole

As it's just a pole it can go behind my desk with no problem, I extend it from the floor to the ceiling and I set up an adapter on it

u/openglfan · 2 pointsr/Vive

For non-permanent mounting, I have had great luck with a pair of these:

and a pair of these:

Just a personal recommendation. I'm not a shill for Big Showercurtain.

u/oraclefish · 2 pointsr/Vive

In my bedroom, I've been using these carpenter poles, and they work fantastically! (Even with 10 foot ceilings)

In combination with These for mounting the lighthouses - once you lock them in place, they do not move. Great little tool!

Concerning games, the first things I show ANYONE are TheBlu, The Lab, The Plank, and TiltBrush (if they haven't tried VR before)

u/Vargrr · 2 pointsr/Vive

I use acro-props (the ones I ordered: along with quick release mounts (the ones I use:

I have had this setup since the original Vive came out and once setup, I have never had to touch them again. They are extremely solid and just work.

The system is also 100% non-destructive and can be transferred to a new place if you decide to rent elsewhere.

u/MacGyverisms · 2 pointsr/photography

Are you sure you're in the right focusing mode? You'll want AF-C (Auto Focus-Continuous). As long as you're set to AF-C, your camera will do its best to track you and keep you in focus. One thing to keep in mind is that if you're using the onboard mic, AF-C is going to make your audio quality even worse than it already is. The microphone on your D3200 will pick up the sound of the focus motor on top of your voice. If you're really serious about video and sound quality for your vlogs, you're going to want a lavaliere mic or a shotgun mic to give you professional sounding audio. You just plug it into the mic port on your D3200 and the camera will use your external mic over its internal one. The D3200 will produce some great looking video, but without an external mic your audio may not be usable (and it'll really set your video apart from the rest quality wise).

u/thirru · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Yeah I've yet to find a Mic that works. I thought the S7 was TRRS, but I guess it isn't.

I've got the Olympus ME-51S Stereo Microphone and it works on my iPhone using the Rode SC4 TRS>TRRS adapter, but not on my S7 Edge.

Edit: Have you tried the Rode smartLav maybe?

Would love to hear if anyone else has managed to make it work.

u/sauteslut · 2 pointsr/juggling

Tbh I only watched for 10 seconds. The lighting is bad and the low angle of the camera is weird and you gotta get a [microphone] (

u/CameraRollSoundSpeed · 2 pointsr/videography

Yes, a good mic will definitely help. The best way to get good audio is to just get the mic closer - even a $1000 microphone will sound awful if it's not close to your subject. Because of that, I'd recommend picking up something like the £52 Rode SmartLav+ and connecting it to your phone with the 3.5mm > Lightning adapter that comes with the iPhone 7.

If getting the mic close to your subject isn't possible, the Rode VideoMic Me is around the same price as the SmartLav+ but clips directly to the phone. It's supposed to plug in to the headphone jack of the phone and hang off the side of the phone, but people have gotten it to work with not much hassle on the iPhone 7.

I hope this answers your question, if you have any more please feel free to ask.

u/KelseyOnTheHouse · 2 pointsr/youtubers

I’ve had good luck wirh Rode’s model:
Rode smartLav+ Omnidirectional Lavalier Microphone for iPhone and Smartphones

u/darkdayzandrainbows · 2 pointsr/videography

I'm not sure that it does - although that's a really good idea!

If you want a really cheap and actually pretty good lav mic solution then try this

u/legendofzac · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers
u/thecarpenter123 · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

g7, because:

  1. it shoots 4k if you every wanted to in the future
  2. it's screen flips around fully. the a6000's screen does not, so filming yourself will be significantly easier with the g7.

    i would highly suggest against using the onboard mic for any sort of interview. grab yourself one of these on the cheap and use your iphone as the recorder

u/vbfronkis · 2 pointsr/maker

As I suspected, your VO mic is a condenser. Treat your room and see if you get better results. If not, I’d go with a cardioid microphone. I use a Behringer xm8500 which you can find on Amazon for $20-30 depending on who’s selling it and if it includes an XLR cable. I also use a dedicated USB audio interface vs having one built into the mic. I started out with the Behringer UM2 which ran about $60 on Amazon. I’ve since upgraded to a Focusrite Scarlet 2i2 because it has some nice features I was after since I’d gotten more into the podcast. It ran about $110 as I recall. Yes, you’ll have separate components, but you’ll get a better overall sound and it’ll let you mix and match with different microphones for different occasions without having to worry if the mic can plug into your computer directly.

I don’t have any experience with the Rode type setup, but if you’re using the 3.5mm cord to plug straight into the iPhone, I don’t see why it would be poor quality. It almost sounded like the iPhone was using its onboard microphone instead of the external one. I imagine you’re using a Lightning-to-3.5mm headphone jack adapter, yes? What I’d check for is if that 3.5mm audio cord coming off the Rode receiver unit has 3 “rings” on it. Look at a set of headphones that have an inline mic. You’ll see on the plug there’s 3 rings. There’s 3 contact areas inside the jack - right audio, left audio, microphone audio. If that jack doesn’t have 3, it may not be making proper contact inside the plug and telling the iPhone “hey I’ve got an external mic here!” Hope that makes sense.

The picture of this lavalier mic has the kind of jack I’m talking about:

Hope that helps!

u/DanielJLewis · 2 pointsr/podcasts

For most podcasters, video is only a worthwhile choice when the content communicates better in video. Comedy and tutorials are often like this.

But since this is for an education project, you don't need to worry much about how much sense the decision makes. :)

Here are the most important things for video, in order of priority.

  1. Audio quality—microphone(s) and recorder
  2. Lighting
  3. Camera quality

    Microphones for video are usually more expensive, but they don't have to be. Your two main choices are wearable mics and shotgun mics.

    Shotgun mics are expensive and cumbersome, but they keep the mics completely out of the shot.

    Wearable mics, like a lavalier, can be hidden. But they're sound best if you don't try to hide them. My advice is to only hide the mic when you want something to seem real, like something dramatized. Otherwise, a discreetly visible lav mic isn't distracting.

    On the low end, I recommend the JK MicJ 044 mic. They're small, only $29, and get surprisingly good sound for their price. It'll easily connect to any audio recorder (like the Zoom H1). Or, you can get a TRRS mic/headphone splitter and connect a lav to a smartphone and record with an app (for iOS, I like Røde Rec). For something simpler but a little more expensive, the Røde SmartLav+ sounds great and connects directly to a smartphone.

    For lighting, be near a window on a sunny day. Get diffused sunlight (not direct) on your face to brightly light you. Otherwise, consider a cheap three-point lighting kit.

    Finally, your camera could be a DSLR, smartphone, or even an HD webcam. The camera actually matters least for your overall quality. Great lighting can make even a cheap camera look good.
u/asilvermtzion · 2 pointsr/LocationSound

That's cool. Was just checking you had considered the options... From an audio point of view, a voiceover will result in cleaner audio, but it sounds like capturing the moment is more important to you.

I'm not familiar with the mic you have... I looked at it on Amazon just now and it should work fine for you, but if it's too sensitive then you need to lower the gain (level) of the mic at it's input stage. Is it the Voice Memos app that you've been using? I don't think that has gain control. I believe the Røde Rec LE app is free and has input level control, so I'd give that a try. Or the PCM Recorder MK II app by TEAC/Tascam should do the same if you prefer that.

If that doesn't work then it's likely that the mic is just too sensitive for yoru application and you might have to consider another option. I don't have much experience with consumer lav mics, only professional ones, but I've heard people say the Røde smartLav+ is surprisingly decent for the price and it has headset mount available too.

Other than that, I think you'd have to step it up a level and look at a better quality mic and probably a hardware audio recorder.

u/wolfcry0 · 2 pointsr/audio

You can definitely do that, there are some cheaper ones on Amazon that I'm not sure on the quality of, or there's a Rode model that costs more but is known to be decent quality.

Personally since it's easy to return items to Amazon if they don't work well, I'd try the cheap one first and see how it goes.

u/HybridCameraRevoluti · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Sadly, the [$79 SmartLav Plus] ( is a great mic - but it can only be used with a phone with a TRRS jack - not directly into your camera (which has a TRS jack).

u/L1zardcat · 2 pointsr/Flipping

Rode Smartlav+

TRRS Extension cable

Although I'll bet you've come across some nice wireless lav mics in your auction travels. ;-)

u/InvisibleJiuJitsu · 2 pointsr/videography

smartlav+ or the sennheiser are popular selections

amazon referral links

u/maxwood · 2 pointsr/photography

I'm looking to get a microphone to attach to my DSLR for filmmaking, I just need a generally good all-rounder. Budget £75 but can go for more if you can persuade me of the benefits.

I'm looking at a couple of different RODE mics but it's confusing what the benefits are when they're so similarly priced - £50 £42 £70

I don't know anything about sound so any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

u/silent1mezzo · 2 pointsr/terrariums

I don't have experience with GoPro specifically but I really like the Rode VideoMic

u/RegulusWolf · 2 pointsr/Nikon

If it were up to me, I would get a Rode Video Micro, which is around $40 cheaper than the Video Mic Go, (I'm going USD because that's where I am, not sure if you are GBP or what, but the price ratio should be around the same) and from most of the reviews out there seems to be a bit better all around, and it comes with a dead-cat wind breaker, which you would have to pay extra for if you got the Go. If you are shooting in a forest you'll want that to help break any wind noise coming in through the trees.

Here is a review comparing the Video Micro with the Video Mic Go and the Video Mic Pro:

So case 1 is get a Video Mic Go for around $100 ( and get a dead cat wind screen for around $30 ( because you will absolutely need it if there is any kind of wind. That would be around $130-140 depending on shipping/tax/etc.

Case 2 is get a Rode Video Micro, which I personally own and really really like, and that is $60 AND comes with a wind screen, so for the money you have saved you could get a Zoom H1 as well and come out pretty close to the same price!
$60 for the mic + ~$80 for the recorder puts you at $140, so like $10 more. Not bad in my opinion. And it gets you the peace of mind of being able to monitor your audio, make sure that you don't have any weird interference or background noise since it has a headphone jack. Yes, you have to sync audio in post, but it is totally worth it in the huge jump in audio quality. This is basically the setup that I used for quite a while (H1+ Nikon ME-1 mic for me, so this setup is probably even better) and it is a really cheap option compared to what is out there (now I am using a Zoom H4n Pro + Sennheiser Lavalier Mics + Rode Video Mic Pro and some other gear as well,) and there probably isn't a massive difference between the two setups.

Just my opinion, but I think that you would end up with better audio the second way, and the audio really makes the movie. Bad audio and a good video image/story still generally is a bad video.

u/Carbonrevo33 · 2 pointsr/gopro

This is what I'm looking to get when I'm in need of an ext. mic. Decent price and good quality, but it still doesn't solve your low-profile mic request.

u/Halo6819 · 2 pointsr/videography

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

u/summercampcounselor · 2 pointsr/cookingvideos

Depends on budget, but considering he's using the onboard mic, anything will be an upgrade. I don't know what camera he is using so I don't know what kind of input he has. But you can find wired lav's for an 1/8" jack for pretty cheap. You can go wireless for $200ish. Or you can just put a shotgun mic on the camera for $70? BH is a terrific resource too :)

u/TombCam · 2 pointsr/videography

If you're just needing Natural Sound, then the Rode VideoMic Go will do you fine. It also picks up decently well in interviews.

However, even if you have that Shotgun for interviews, to make them just that much better, use a Giant Squid Lav Mic connected to a Zoom H1. It's a phenomenal entry level Lav setup that is decently affordable.

u/klaqua · 2 pointsr/videography

Let me trow my two cents into the ring.

When you say HQ video I assume you mean 1080p. That can be had much cheaper and that at good quality. More than good enough for a studio setting and interview work.

This is a good perspective by Casey Neistat on gear you need:

With that being said, what most people forget is that lighting, the audio, knowing how to setup and just a little prep that can make all the difference.

In all honesty you could just buy this:

u/thehauntedgod · 2 pointsr/gopro

I had a friend grab a Rhode mic that he used on his GoPro at Electric Forest Festival and he said the audio turned out pretty good.

u/masondaugherty · 2 pointsr/PanasonicG7

This is a great balance between the cheap options and a premium mic. It performance is superb, any higher spending and you start to get diminishing returns.

u/provideocreator · 2 pointsr/videography

I would use the Rode Video Mic Go. It's a popular camera microphone. The Super-Cardioid pattern means it's highly directional and excludes sounds off axis from where you point it.

A lavalier mic and portable recorder would be better, but it sounds like it's beyond your budget.

u/JP8_And_Coke · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

I'm loving mine:
And I can charge 1, 2, 3, or 4 at a time. Get two of the above, and you're set for a long time.

u/bushmaster2000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I use Panasonic Enerloop batteries they're a newer generation of rechargeable and highly recommended, they're 2000mah with 2100 recharge cycle lifetime.


if you jsut want to go for raw capacity, here's some 3000mah ones

u/BrewingHeavyWeather · 2 pointsr/flashlight

> To be frank, I don't fully understand all the differences yet. Any type of battery should be fine as long as it can be recharged or replaced fairly easily (i.e. via Amazon or regular hardware stores).

There's pretty much 1xAA, 2xAA, 1xCR123, 2xCR123, and 18650 (not all 18650 flashlights take CR123s!). CR123 is, IMO, a nicer form factor, for handling, but rechargeable energy density is crap, TBH. AA gives you the most versatility. But, avoid alkalines whenever possible, for flashlights. For AA size, depending on flashlight, either go with 14500, or Japan-made Eneloops (Duracell and Amazonbasics both have rebranded versions of these at good prices).

AA NIMH have a nominal voltage range of 1.0-1.25V. 14500 fit in the same space, with 3.6-4.2V, should a single AA flashlight allow greater voltage. Often, that will give you greater max output. OTOH, you'll have to be really careful if lending the light to anyone else. Today, though, most get pretty good output on AA NIMH. Japanese Eneloops are the best rechargeables out there, and can be found under Panasonic's name, Amazonbasics', and Duracell (if buying at a B&M store, look for made in Japan on the back). I've had those, and knock-offs (like Rayovac's), and over time, with real world use, the difference is not subtle. I have not used Chinese Eneloops, myself, but largely because reports by users, and tests on them, indicated similar behavior to the knock-offs I'd had. The Japanese ones just keep on going.

18650 is a little bigger than 2xCR123, and has a nominal voltage range of 3.6-4.2V. 2xCR123 have a nominal range of around 2.5-6V. 18650 has the most R&D going into it, being the most popular size (it's what is in laptops and power tools, among other things), so you get the most energy storage for the size, weight, and money. But, it does not have a comparable primary cell to swap it with, so make sure the flashlight in question can take 2xCR123 as backup (if not stated that way, make sure it can take at least 6V input).

You can get good chargers and batteries for $15-20 total, for about any handheld sizes (make sure to get a charger that has independent bays, if going AA NIMH - example), so your $75 budget is pretty realistic, and honestly, gives you tons of options.

Also, if you keep up with your rechargeable cells, costs of Lithium primary batteries (including AAA and AA) will not be much, in the long run. A leaky alkaline AA can do a lot of damage, so I would advise against using them if there is any other option; and the actual costs over time are fairly small, when you're usually just partially discharging the rechargeable cell(s) in between top offs, 90% of the time.

Panasonic-made CR123s are the quality ones to buy, if going that route for primaries. They can be had online for around $1.50/ea., so comparable with, or slightly cheaper than, AA Lithiums. You can also buy them at not-exorbitant prices at hardware stores and outdoors stores, and probably gun shops. Surefire, Streamlight, and Duracell, are all made at the same plant, and are all good quality. Some cheaper ones, like the popular Tenergy, are known for aging poorly, and getting unbalanced quickly. If mainly using rechargeable cells for day to day use, I don't think saving money that way provides good value.

> A good mix of throw and flood seems best. I don't want something too far toward either end of the spectrum.

While I'm not a big fan of their UIs (though the Pro does seem nicer than non-Pro, IMO), I think Armytek's TIR lights have the best balanced beams for EDCs, in the $40-60 range, with a wide spot, and plenty of flood.

u/superninjaa · 2 pointsr/xbox

Yes. There's an Xbox One Play & Charge Kit that you can purchase at most stores. Another alternative which I personally use are rechargeable battery kits such as this which include four batteries, equivalent to two battery packs and it's cheaper as well.

u/BkLiveWire · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Here’s what I recommend [Panasonic Eneloop AA Batteries 4 Pack](Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/BaconStratman · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Works great for me at house parties, small venues, and churches.

I've read complaints about the clip and a weak battery door but I keep a pouch on my guitar straps that holds and protects the transmitter and my guitars well:

I also rotate rechargeable batteries so I don't worry about losing my signal mid set:

u/miggitymikeb · 2 pointsr/xbox360

Eneloops son

Don't buy a wired controller, buy this.

u/bacon_jews · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had this once, batteries completely drained within 1 day. I figured it's probably because I was setting my controllers thumbstick down and they were triggered as active, but I can't prove that. Now I set controllers trigger down and I keep my Oculus runtime turned off when not using, just in case.

For batteries just get Panasonic Eneloop. You'll have two charging and two in controllers, just swap them when needed. It will pay back in no time, also more environmentally friendly.

u/ggf31416 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

If you want a cheap AA option: Sofirn SP10A ($12) + Panasonic Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop ($18). You can get both from Amazon.
or even cheaper Sofirn SP10A + 4 Amazonbasics rechargable batteries from Amazon (you may need to buy something else to get free shipping) + a Zanflare Lii 100 ($4) single slot charger from Gearbest.

For another 18650 option A: Zanflare F1 4500-5000K from Gearbest with usb charging + get a protected battery from either Ilumn (they have a protected 3500mah MJ1 for $6.50 + shipping), IMRbatteries or liionwholesale.
For another 18650 option B: If the fog is dense I would suggest the Sofirn SF36W with a 2800mah battery from aliexpress, which it's available on 3000K warm white and should penetrate better the fog.

u/Nusent · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Eneloop is the way to go. Best purchase in a while.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger with eneloop AA New 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack, White

u/reditor_1234 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)


As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :

Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**


And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :


These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.

u/OscarExplosion · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Not sure how the Xbox One Play n Charge kits are, but the Xbox 360 ones are notorious for being total garbage. You are way better off buying a pack of eneloops and a charger

u/SchmoopiePoopie · 2 pointsr/Xbox_One_X

I highly recommend rechargeable batteries, especially if you only use them for XOX controllers. I use these and they blow away the other brands I’ve used in the past. Having 4 is good because you can swap them out.

u/voneahhh · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It's right here

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/Conrpnc · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Go with these and this. I'm sure there are better deals to be found, I just went for the easy links.

EDIT: Sorry, that first link should have been to just the batteries not the pack with the charger. Point is Eneloops and a good charger.

u/Kronickiller125 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

4 AA standard charger


That’s a good price then you can build up.

u/YouAreSalty · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I recommend getting something like this:

This is the minimum as you need a charger, but there are packs at Costco often on sale for $20 that has like 6 AA batteries and 2 AAA. The one great deal on Amazon today is sold out. I missed out too. :'(

u/trAnwhiz · 2 pointsr/SteamController

The white Eneloops barely discharge when not used, which is important since you will have the 2nd pair charged and ready to replace the used ones when you run out of juice. You don't wanna pop in half charged batteries every time.

There are also higher capacity (~2500 mAh) Eneloops compared to the white ones (1900 mAh) but that comes at the expense of lifespan / charge cycles. The white ones are ultra durable, about 2000 charge cycles.

u/TheBassassin · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Don't buy Nyko anything. At least my experience has been bad with that brand.

My advice would be to buy Eneloops which are rechargeable and affordable AA batteries.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (4 pack)

u/DJManny128 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Here's the Amazon link for these Batteries

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (4 pack)

Edit: Here's my choice if you want OVERKILL.

Panasonic K-KJ17KHC82A eneloop pro NEW High Capacity Power Pack, 8AA, 2AAA, with "Advanced" Individual Battery Charger

u/jimbonics · 2 pointsr/xboxone
u/TheBigBadQ · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I cannot recommend these enough.

My roommate has 12 that he swaps out throughout his devices and they're all working as great today as they did 2 years ago. I've had my set of 4 for about 4 months and they've been amazing. So much better than the play and charge kit. Also, if you have other micro USB cables I would try them because back when I had an Elite, only certain ones would charge it.

u/bowlofspiders · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Use this link:
That's the one I purchased. The charger takes about 4 hours to charge the batteries if you're patient and don't want the pro charger.

u/JRhodes88 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is pretty much expected. If you are using more features that are being powered through the same 2 AA batteries, there will be more drain then not having those extra features.

I'd recommend you get some of these Sanyo Eneloops for your controllers (and other electronics in your house)

u/PastalaVista666 · 2 pointsr/betteroffbrands

I actually got one when I bought my Xbox One (tax refund, woo), but it doesn't work at all. The controllers don't seat in the charger so they don't charge. I'm leery of getting another, just because I don't want the same situation to happen.

I'm looking at these rechargeable Panasonic batteries and charger for about $15, they're not off-brand but they might save some money.

u/genevieveann · 2 pointsr/breastfeeding

A friend uses this one with her Spectra and loves it. I never used it because I didn't know about it for baby #1 but may get it for baby $2 (whenever that happens). TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/SoberBrent · 2 pointsr/diysound

It does say they have a BMS so it’s got some protection for the cells. I’m not sure if it would be full capacity for that price. I recently tried out this power bank/12v battery

Used Velcro to attach it to the back of my project. I’ve used it for a week and it’s still half full and you can always peel it off the Velcro and use it for a usb power bank.

u/dalearino · 2 pointsr/Tools

This battery fits in the little elastic pocket and will run for hours on high.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/thisbenguy · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

Good day. I am in the final stages of completion of a Pelican Boom Box and have a question about charging this [Lithium Ion Battery]( I have linked. If you click through the images you can see that I presently have the battery wired to a terminal block that goes up to a switch and the charging port on the exterior of the case.
For charging I used an [SAE socket]( because that is what all the accessories on my motorcycle are powered by. I have replaced the end of the included wall charger for the LI battery (12V @ 1A) with the corresponding SAE plug. My goal is to be able to charge the case on AC from the wall plug, or DC from the bike or any other 12V outlet. When I spoke with a representative from the battery company they stated that 1A is the max amperage the battery should receive.

My questions are these;

  1. Do they make a product that is an AC to DC converter that will allow DC input to pass through and become regulated to a specific amperage if that is what it was connected to. I'd prefer to have as little external of the box as possible. My desire is to have the wall AC/DC converter internal to the box so if I plug in an external power cable to AC through the SAE socket it will convert to DC @ 1A and if I were to plug in to a DC source it would regulate the incoming voltage to 12V @ 1A. If a product like this does not exist, can I add some sort of amperage regulation in line so when I'm powering off DC I don't blow my box up.

  2. I was receiving a significant amount of interference from the bluetooth module and when hardwired to the 3.5mm jack from my cell phone. A ground loop isolator inline solved 90% of the noise, but I didn't know if there were any other tricks you had.

  3. In order to extend the antenna of my bluetooth dongle I'm going to solder an additional antenna. I used (300/2450MHz)/4(1/4 wave)=.030cm. If I did that correctly, I would need a 30mm antenna to act as my 1/4 wave bluetooth antenna.

  4. For audio switching between the Bluetooth module and the 3.5mm jack I ran each channel of each input to it's own section of a 4pdt relay, from a switch that also switches on power to the Bluetooth. The output of the relay goes to the amp and I jumped the output of both relay sides to have one cable. For the audio grounds I connected them all together for the two input and one output cable. All the audio works fine, I was unsure if this was the appropriate way to do it, or if there is something better.

    Over all this has been a fun project and I look forward to version 2.0.
    Build Link
u/EkriirkE · 2 pointsr/retrobattlestations

If you look at Page 116 for the TechRef Manual the front battery port has the following pinout:

1 +5V
5 +12V

So something like this could potentially power it while fitting in one of the disk bays like the modems usually did

u/Nu_Quote · 2 pointsr/titanfall

Here is the image set of my first set of mods.

Since then I have moved to an external power supply, and switched from the internal mic to a throat mic and an external PA speaker. The fans I used were 30mm x 30mm computer fans being powered by this power cell.

u/Gumlog · 2 pointsr/kayakfishing

Couple additional thoughts...

  • I didn't see a PFD on the list? Looking at the fly-fishing vest I'm pretty sure that's not a PFD.
  • Rod leashes -- I find a bit of 3mm accessory cord (or 550 paracord) and a couple knots serves just fine as a rod leash. Set up a running bowline on one end to drop over a cleat or rod holder, then double half hitch around the rod ahead of the reel foot.
  • Sonar - make sure you know the difference between the Striker 4 and the Striker Plus 4, as well as the difference between the chirp-only transducer and ClearVu+Chirp version (4cv). Pricing on these is not all that far apart, and it may be worth a few more $$ to get the newest model (Plus) instead of the old version (non-Plus).
  • Battery -- Have a look at lithium ion vs gel-cell. Striker Plus 4 has a stated current draw of 0.4A -- so a 6000mAH/6AH battery such as this one should last you all day. TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack
    • (for full disclosure, I've only been able to bench-test that battery with my EchoMap 73sv so far, hope to get on the water with it this weekend.)
u/GrooveJourney · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

Parts list:




Subwoofer was from an Altec Lansing computer speaker set, and the box can be had at any local military surplus store.

u/wesw818 · 2 pointsr/Vive


These are the ones I got. I haven't had any problems with them.

u/ohpico · 2 pointsr/Vive

I use 2 of these that I bought from Home Depot:


Then add some clamp mounts for the basestations:

u/FrothyWhenAgitated · 2 pointsr/Vive

The camera mounts clamp down on the cargo bars, and the mounting screw hole on the back and bottom of the base stations is a standard one you find on camera equipment.

These are the exact items I used:

And here's a picture:

u/Madamserious · 2 pointsr/oculus

While everyone is figuring out their room scale solutions I figured I would post my idea.

Two pieces of telescoping pvc pipe with a notch cut in the bottom of the bigger piece and a hose clamp. Works great!

camera mount

sorry for picture quality, 3 year old phone.

u/Ferret_OG · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Those worked fine for me when I still used portable cargo poles.

u/MattVidrak · 2 pointsr/Vive

Here is what I am using. Have had zero issues with my setup and is also extremely easy to move and demo at other people's houses. Might have to get more creative if you have very high ceilings or slanted ceilings.

Harbor Freight Support Poles - These work great, they don't support a lot of load, but you don't need it to. They are also half the price of what everyone else is recommending on Amazon.

Camera Mount Clamp - Have had no issues with these, either, and very cheap. They allow you to also rotate the lighthouses in a very large arc depending on the setup you have.

I have had no stability issues; everything is rock solid tracking wise. The foot print is also like 3 x 6 inches on the floor. The low profile pads make it very easy to hide them behind book cases or other furniture as well. And you can get all of it for under $50.

I don't understand why you would ever use tripods, as they takes up 100 times the space and are less stable than the support poles. Good luck on your setup!

EDIT: Formatting.

u/moon-worshiper · 2 pointsr/space

The telescope eyepiece was designed to focus on an eyeball. The eyeball is actually quite inferior to the smart phone camera (CMOS sensor). With HDR, the stacking is done with hardware. There are a whole bunch of telescope eyepiece adapters, usually less than $20.

The other nice feature of a smart phone camera is it can be controlled over Bluetooth from a laptop in the nice warm car with hot coffee.

u/CounterSpiceGo · 2 pointsr/space

I bought this mount about a month ago. So far it has worked pretty well. I took a picture of the moon about a week ago using that mount with my LG V20 attached to my telescope. You will want to use a bluetooth remote camera shutter as well.

u/Chris9712 · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

Thank you very much! I use this:

It looks good. Of course, it won't be as good as attaching a dslr or a dedicated planetary camera, but it does really well considering its only 20 dollars.

u/SirCEWaffles · 2 pointsr/telescopes

Have a look at one of these. I have two different kinds, im liking this one best so far. The other one I have was the first Carson Universal phone mount.
Gosky Universal Cell Phone...

If you have any questions about it, let me know.

u/Big9erfan · 2 pointsr/Astronomy

There are cheapo mounts that will clamp down onto the eyepiece and then clamp onto your phone, like this one:

You will have to line up the camera with the eyepiece first though, which can be a tad difficult in the dark.

u/WirelesslyWired · 2 pointsr/pics
u/MattC867 · 2 pointsr/astrophotography
u/Dragon_EX · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

This cheap one on Amazon.

u/Ghostnineone · 2 pointsr/lgv20

I use this one.

It's okay, it can be a bitch to line up the camera with the eyepiece in the dark. It will probably make your scope heavy on one end so if you can adjust the scope so it doesn't drift all the time it will help.

My scope just has a twist helical focuser which tends to be kinda loose (it's just a threaded tube that goes up or down basically) when you have to crank the focus so that can wobble a little bit too but that's mostly an issue with my scope.

u/KatzoCorp · 2 pointsr/videography

It might be pretty under budget, but I got recommended the Rode Videomicro over on the /r/videography subreddit and have been loving it. It's just a standard shutgun mic, pretty small, comes with a fur and an antishock mount.

So far I've used it for filming crowds, which it handles decently, done some range testing outside with people talking, which it does very well, and I've done a voiceover for a documentary-like piece. The mic was really nice overall, but it suffers from phantom power, in that you have to use the camera's preamp, which is decent on the G7, I'd say.

$59 in the US, from Adorama.

[58€ in the EU, from Amazon.] (

There's also the Videomicro's bigger brother, the Videomic. Don't really have experience with that one, but if reviews are to be believed, it does what the Videomicro does, just bigger and better. It's battery powered, also.

91€ in the EU from Amazon, although I couldn't find an option in the US for under a hundred.

Just my $.02

u/Swegggie · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

My favorite guides to budget film making are the old Film Riot videos and DSLR Video Shooter

For Audio I would personally recommend the RODE VideoMicro It is $60 or so and with a boompole it would be a great dialogue and sound effect mic.

Some of the cheaper light kits on Amazon (i.e. LimoStudio, Fancier Studio, Neewer) are OK? I use the LimoStudio kit and it works for small rooms but anything further than 8-10 feet is almost useless. I would recommend getting the work lights and wax paper mentioned by /u/potablepotents

Hope this helps, and I'd be interested in seeing you final project or working with you!

u/SufficientNeck · 2 pointsr/CasualUK

Rode video Micro is great too (lighter than the VideoMic Pro). Got one of them as well - it's a shotgun mic as the previous commenter suggested.

What are you using to film?


u/TheMidBossYT · 2 pointsr/youtubers

I can definitely say I'm jealous! I wish I could do what you're doing.

The quality of the footage is definitely nice and high, which is always important in vlogs, especially in travel vlogs. I definitely recommend picking up some kind of microphone to improve the talking quality, but it's honestly not bad. It's just the easiest nitpick to make. One cost effective mic that I've had repeatedly recommended to me is this one.

The music felt fitting, and had that 'pop' music feel that is very appropriate for this type of video. I can agree with noodltube in that you should focus more on having the commentary match the clips (if at all possible), but I think the shots you did provide were really nice for the most part.

I would also suggest lowering the background audio as well.

Finding a format for videos, I find, is one of the biggest difficulties in creating content. I would suggest you heavily focus on determining what your format should be for future videos. This was just a trailer of sorts, so I'm not really criticizing this video as much as just giving you hopefully helpful hints for the future.

Keep giving it your all and I wish you luck on your journey! Sorry if my criticisms sound too harsh, I think you're off to a fine start.

u/kdiddy24 · 2 pointsr/PanasonicG7

I use this takstar (30$) -

Here's a sample video/vlog of mine on my g7 outside in chicago.

Short review: I think its best bang for the buck. For 30$ it's half the price of the rode micro and the quality is within 90ish% of the quality of rode and sometimes better. The only cons I would say is its a bit bigger, and the on/off is annoying sometimes bc I forget to flip it on and my video records without audio. If you got 60$ I'd go with the rode micro - Its smaller and easier to use.

u/Asherms21 · 2 pointsr/youtubers

your audio is not that bad actually. yeah it can be better but ive done worse lol My audio is finally on point now.

wait that why you have the ear bud in....thats your mic? I bought a great boom mic. I have a lav too if im in a crazy area or dealing with a lot of outside noise.

i like your content i like how you have clips of the actual movie. I wanted to do something with movies but Idk how to get the movie without buying it. blaaaah. i aint tryna steal it. lol

some ppl would be put off by the swearing. Im not but i get that complaint too in my vids.

your thumbnails- good that your face is in them. make your letters bigger. use the space wisely. easy to see and highly recognizable ya know.

boom i use. not too expensive

u/skitchbeatz · 2 pointsr/SonyAlpha

Sorry about that. Mondays. 😩

u/Matthew_MD · 2 pointsr/gopro

I did a bunch of research and there is a lot of good things to say about the Rode directional mic. I just ordered one for myself.

u/PastramiSwissRye · 2 pointsr/videography

Afraid not.

Filmic Pro is a nice app for making your iPhone feel more like a video camera.

Something like a RODE VideoMic ME or a RODE SmartLav would help things sound better (which makes a huge difference in perceived quality.

A mount for your phone is handy but a tripod is overkill. Something like this flexible GorillaPod phone mount is pretty handy for attaching your phone to whatever stands you have access to.

Lastly, a bright, high-quality LED panel can give you a lot of control over how things look. This Yongnuo YN-300 is the go-to for a low-cost good-performing LED light panel.

u/TheClouse · 2 pointsr/Magic

I love that you're making short films. Each time you film one they'll get better and better. Write constantly and do your best material each time.

  1. Audio. Obviously need better audio. Your dialogue track is low and your music is high... I'm betting it was on-phone or on-cam audio so it sounded busy and hollow so you masked it then subtitled. Get a good cheap mic. Everything is in focus so I'm assuming phone.

  2. Timing. The sketch is :42 and nothing happens until :25. Break down a short story into these parts. You're isn't far from it. An argument could me made... but really it's missing a few key elements present in today's social media. Get a hook. Entice the viewer in the first 3 seconds. "Why am I watching this." Doesn't have to be in-your-face, but give them something to hook them.

  3. Set dressing. You're probably just doing this in your house, so I get it. But pick your camera angles, framing, and backgrounds to enhance the scene. You're young enough to know people that work in retail. Ask to use their space for 15 min while you shoot this.

  4. Lighting. It's just overhead light from the room which makes everything seem flat. Try something that separates your character from the background a bit more. Check out a basic 3-point light set up.

  5. Color correction. Your cashier is yellow and your customer is white. Toss on a curves adjustment, pull out some mid-reds and increase mid blues until the two shots feel like they're in the same scene.

  6. There's obviously someone running the camera and they're doing a pretty solid job, but you could get something like this if you're looking to frame the shots and keep them steady.

    The pieces are all there. They each just need a bit of polish to get it put together. With a story this basic, I would have told it in half the time. Set up the conflict, show the effect, then milk the payoff.

u/DGBD · 2 pointsr/classicalmusic

You can buy an attachment for many phones that offers good demo-quality audio for around £100. There tend to be more offerings for iPhone, something like this or maybe this would work well. THere's also something like this that would work on any phone, and would give better results than just the mic on your phone.

There are also a few good recorders out there in your price range that would give you good quality like the Zoom H1 or the Tascam DR-05. Both Tascam and Zoom have a range of options for digital recorders, and some of the Zooms also function as an audio interface that you can plug into the computer. I have the Zoom H6, which is outside your budget but a fantastic recorder for the money.

One word of warning, don't be suckered in by cheaper alternatives for mics or recording equipment. You get what you pay for, and anything under about £50 in either department isn't going to be too much better than the mic on your smartphone.

u/vanderlynhotel · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

Instead of post-processing, you're much better off 'pre-processing' by purchasing an external field recording microphone that plugs into the headphone jack. Something like this is relatively cheap and will make a world of difference.

u/bbbbowser · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS9

Rode VideoMic Me Compact TRRS Cardioid Mini-Shotgun Microphone for Smartphones:

u/MisterDrProf · 2 pointsr/CasualConversation

Yas, dewit!

That is actually a really cool idea for a podcast! "Tales from the backseat" or something like that! They also make stuff for it! I found this on amazon as well as this. Totally affordable!

u/inhumantsar · 2 pointsr/Hamilton

Alternative mic suggestion: Tascam DR-05 and a cheap lavalier mic like this

It's a lot more portable and versatile than the Snowball, but it will require you to sync up audio and video after the fact.

edit: honestly, even just the lav mic would help a lot

u/eastsideski · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

I've been happy with my PowerDeWise Lav Mic, good budget option at only $22

u/USSR_ASMR · 2 pointsr/Saxophonics

Would this work?

u/ASSarnat · 2 pointsr/sony

tried this once, they really don't last. it wasn't the exact same adapter but with feedback from people I know who try these, they all fail pretty soon. mic functionality is typically lost within a year and you have to buy another cable. it really adds up if you're a student gamer.

I'd say try to go for a nice, relatively inexpensive USB mic like this Fifine one or try to snag this $17 lapel one while it's on sale. The built-in microphone in Sony cans isn't too great anyway

u/ToCommit · 2 pointsr/Cameras

almost anything cheap on Amazon will likely be better than your phone's mic. For example this one does the job just fine:

test it out, try putting your phone an arms length from you and speak. Now do that while you move, go to the fridge to grab some foods and describe them at the same time. Play back and see how intelligible it sounds from your audience's perspective. A mic on you will almost always be better.

u/silkk8 · 2 pointsr/acting

adding onto this: I recently bought this mic for self tapes.

It's a super affordable option, and sounds 1000% better than my iPhone mic. Nothing fancy but it does the job. I just tape it to the inside of my shirt and plug it into my phone and it works great. Before I used this mic, the volume on my tapes would go in and out depending on if I or the reader were saying lines (making the take unusable). I think my phone had trouble picking up the sound from two people. Problem fixed.

u/CryptoGreen · 2 pointsr/funny

Maybe people will start using the camera adaptor, which has a little side chain for charging with a lighting power adaptor. Then you can just use your USB headphones.

u/Natarian86 · 2 pointsr/headphones

I use an ipad plus this adapter. You are able to use the usb to hook up the dac while also being able to plug in power for the ipad.

u/JasonDB55 · 2 pointsr/piano

I only included the braille in case you or anyone else that reads it later needs it, or maybe wants to print out to have next to their piano so they don't need to keep coming back to reddit for it. I tried to think of everything to help. I'm not blind, but I can only imagine how frustrating it must be to not have owners manuals in a form you can read being blind. I actually looked to see if they had a version for visually impaired. Sadly, they did not. This shows an obvious need in our world that we do not have.


Yamaha's Smart Pianist app for iOS allows you to control the functions of your P-125 with your iOS device (requires Apple Lightning to USB Camera Adapter and USB cable). The USB cable will be USB-A to USB-B ends.

Facing the back of the piano you have from left to right, USB to Host, Sustain pedal, Pedal Unit, Aux jack right, aux jack left and balanced, finally the power.


I hope this helps and was exactly the answers you were seeking. Good luck on your journey learning piano.

u/mynameiswrath · 1 pointr/PSVR

Hmmm maybe a lens pen would work? I bought this one when I first got my PSVR.

u/ItsMeEntropy · 1 pointr/photography
u/tomdelfino · 1 pointr/secretsanta

> I find that how I gift has less to do with the value of the number of credits that went into the exchange and more to do with what I can determine about a person

Yeah, it's more about the person than it is about how many credits you're using. One of my favorite gifts was a "Los Pollos Hermanos" t-shirt and a lens pen. Neither of the gifts is expensive, but it's actually a very thoughtful gift. I like Breaking Bad, hence the t-shirt, and I'm into film and photography, so she got me the lens pen. I still have both; the lens pen is with arm's reach now and I still get compliments on the shirt when I wear it.

I signed up for the Super Plus this year just to see what it's all about, but I've only done single-credit in the past and will still be doing a 99% majority of single-credit for future exchanges.

u/pbgu1286 · 1 pointr/oculus

I use this:


It's great. If it's good enough for people to use to clean their $4k camera lenses it's good enough for my Rift!

u/JoshtheLemon · 1 pointr/PSVR
u/Noctroewich · 1 pointr/PSVR

I had this exact same problem. A good lens pen is what I recommend to properly and safely clean IT without risking making it worse. I have oily skin so this is very common for me.

This is what I have Nikon 7072 Lens Pen Cleaning System

u/noluckmurphy · 1 pointr/oculus

I've been using a Nikon Lens Pen. No idea if it's good or bad for the lenses but it clears them up nicely:

u/GrumpyAdultman · 1 pointr/PSVR

I bought this one back at the launch:

It's not even sold by Amazon directly anymore. I'm sure they all do a good job, but this one hasn't given me any problems.

u/lysergicfuneral · 1 pointr/photography

Yeah it's a feature mainly meant for people who might shoot in rain or snow and it's usually found on the more expensive cameras. Not knowing your budget, that was just an ideal case.

After thinking about it, the fan is probably still a good idea, but another cheap solution is to get a rain sleeve. Something along the lines of this:

It should keep most of the moisture out of the lens and camera. Hell you could even cut some holes in a large ZipLock bag and make something similar. Good luck!

Edit: A few more options:

  • Get a GoPro or similar camera that has a waterproof housing.

  • A Nikon AW1 (possibly used). A small, mirrorless, waterproof camera with a small, but useful lens selection.

  • A good-quality, "tough" point and shoot, which are also waterproof.
u/techsmack · 1 pointr/photography

Lots of options. Ranging from cheap disposable, to expensive underwater capable housings. Depends on how serious you want to get.

u/HVPhoto · 1 pointr/photography

I have done about four of these with no ill side effects to my gear. But there is a lot of preparation involved.

  1. Get a camera rain coat. these work well for me. I usually use the lens hood and rubber bands going from the lens into the camera to ensure snugness.

  2. Plan on using one lens and use a UV filter. If you MUST switch lenses, make sure you have canned air or a blower and not to use it on the lens itself but rather to blow off all of the debris that you can. And of course, step off to the side.

  3. Use a camera bag that has a rain cover. Easier to clean.

  4. Expect some cleaning time for your camera. I use a DataVac ( to blow everything off and follow up with using a damp cloth to clean the outside of the camera.

    Its do-able and I always think its a lot of fun, but you have to be prepared. I used my D600 for the shoots and even switched lenses without negative outcomes.
u/fatlace · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Pancakes make the world taste better

Photos in the rain make the world much wetter.

The world would be sad if the camera breaks

So sad that it wouldn't be lifted by the taste of pancakes.


u/ksuwildkat · 1 pointr/pentax

Ill add - while not WR, I have used the DA35 in some pretty rough conditions without any ill effects. The danger is not so much to the lens itself as it is of liquid entering between the lens body and the camera body and then entering the delicate electronics of the camera. There was a kickstarted for an add on rubber seal but it was 1) limited to Canon and Nikon and 2) didn't work well.

Another solution is a rain sleeve. I use these with my Tamron 70-200mm. One qualifier - I would not use these in hot/humid conditions. Your hand is 98 degrees. You will fill this thing with moisture under grey/cold conditions in a few hours. In Louisiana rain storms, a few minutes. Nothing worse for electronics.

As others have said, if you are tossing away your 18-135, toss it my direction :)

u/bear_sheriff · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

I have a Nikon D600 and I've used these OpTech Rainsleeves in the past (also for my old D5100 and D40x), they are easy to pack, easy to use, and although they do the perfect job of blocking out elements like you are anticipating (I've used them in drizzle and in snow and they've been great).

Edit to add it's nice to not break the bank but have some decent protection.

u/bulksalty · 1 pointr/photography

You can make a cheap one from a garbage bag (or other liquid proof bag and a rubber band) or there are commercial products ranging from inexpensive to more expensive.

u/renegade · 1 pointr/VideoEditing

There are numerous designs of rainsleeves and raincoats for cameras;
Also anti-fogging wipes for lenses

For anyone doing seriously hardcore water work you can get a diving case which will be completely waterproof including at depth, but they tend to cost a few thousands.

u/thefigpucker · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

I would also look into these to protect your camera from the elements there and come in different styles and sizes.


u/brianbphoto · 1 pointr/photography

We get some heavy snow and rain on occasion so I keep a cheapo $6-7 rain cover in my bag as a "just in case". Light and doesn't take up much room.

Here's the link:

Tip: I don't put my hands inside the bag when I'm using it though to avoid condensation. I just hold on the outside.

u/emiliob8 · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

I think they just put out a canon one this week.

I have a canon stills camera so I am thinking it may be easier to go with the canon speed booster. Does anyone think the fotodiox adapter for nikon lenses would be a problem stacked on the speedbooster?

These are the adapters I am talking about

u/2013orBust · 1 pointr/DSLR

I've heard some people say this adapter is not tight but I've got a few of them and never had a that with them. They are pretty cheap and very simple, and unlike some adapter (like the minolta lens adapter) it does not have a piece of glass on it. You can go to a photo supply store and get a "better" adapter for maybe 40 or 50 bucks, but it's the exact same thing.

u/mister_magic · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

well, TYL :P
Simply put, Nikon (F mount) lenses are 'shorter' than Canon (EF lenses), so you can add an adapter add the right size and use the lens. Only issue is the aperture - with modern Nikon glass it's closed by default, and most adapters (at least the ones for £5) won't allow your Canon body to adjust the Nikon aperture. So, unless you've got a full manual lens, you need a Nikon body to adjust the aperture, take the lens off with the aperture open and attach it to the adapter on the Canon body.

(at least I believe that's how it works. I've only ever used all manual glass)

On the other hand, old Canon FD lenses are 'longer' than EF lenses, so adding an adapter of any length can't make them usable on modern cameras - and the same for Canon EF lenses on Nikon bodies.

PS: $7 at

u/Lagged2Death · 1 pointr/photography

>...if you really really want to be able to use those 1960s lenses, and just want to manually meter and manually focus everything, sure Nikon gives you more options.

I've never actually used one of these things, but in theory, at least, all that funky old Nikon glass will work on an EOS body with the aid of a cheap no-optics adapter. And the metering will more-or-less work, too. Olympus-to-EF, Pentax-to-EF, and M42-to-EF adapters are available as well.

u/Retrospektic · 1 pointr/Cameras

That’s interesting. That would mean that a cheap F to EF Adapter should work just fine.


u/cikmatt · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

I've used these:


and have gotten pretty good results shooting video with my 60D.

u/mmerwin2 · 1 pointr/photography

i was thinking of picking up one of these: link

it isn't chipped, but it would work fine for the pc lenses i would think? I already have a nifty 50 for the canon, and it works well enough that i don't think i'd be hopping to use the 50 1.4 for much since it is manual focus.

u/knoland · 1 pointr/cinematography

No get this one. I have one, it works just fine.

u/governator_ahnold · 1 pointr/cinematography

Actually...this just occurred to me. Since you're making films you might want to look into a metabones speed booster ( It increases the max aperture by a stop and decreases field of view by 0.73x. This makes the crop factor of the camera effectively 1.4x and then you can use canon lenses or with this ( adapter you can convert older Nikon lenses to work as well. It's a bit expensive but I think for a camera with this size sensor a worthwhile investment.

u/stevietwoslice · 1 pointr/ThisIsOurMusic

Yeah, it's super cool. good mix of effects. I'll keep an eye out for your new song!

Thank you. I record vocals with this setup through Focusrite's Saffire 6. I use Cakewalk's Sonar for a DAW. From there, it's just plugins. I happened upon some Waves plugins that I've become really comfortable with using, though admittedly I'm a preset fiend. My chain usually looks something like De-Esser, Comp, EQ, Reverb. I double track nearly everything, usually with some stereo separation. Recently I've been playing around with sending all my chorus vocals to a stereo bus with octave effects, then reverbing the shit out of it and using MS techniques to really push the sound around and fill out a song.

But I mean, YouTube tutorials, endless experimentation, etc. I learn new shit every time I try to mix - it's equally inspiring and infuriating haha.

u/CarlMylo · 1 pointr/audio

The Rode NT1-A is pretty great and on sale.It's got a nice bundle on sale with shockmount, XLR and carrying case for $229 when it's normally for $369.

u/cluethemovie · 1 pointr/Guitar
u/shakalaka · 1 pointr/audiophile

This mic is a really versatile mic and is designed for the home studio crowd.

You are kind of asking for two differant things- a mic to use in the studio, and a mic to use for gigs..

Does your friend have an audio interface with preamps etc? Or does he need something with USB. If he already has an interface I would recommend saving a bit more cash and going with my favorite cheap condensor mic- the rode NT1-A

Also YOU NEED TO BUY A POP FILTER! It is not an optional accessory all mics are useless without one.

u/pinsnneedles9000 · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Agreed. You CAN us an SM57 for vocals. In fact, I know some musicians that use those for when they play live. But, just for bedroom recording, a condenser mic will be much more suited. What type of music are you guys making? If he's going to be yelling/screaming, the 57 will do (it'll be quiet on the Scarlett if he's just going to sing regularly is what I'm saying). As would any dynamic mic I would think. The condenser mic though utilizes the 48v phantom power on the Scarlett and they usually are better at picking up quieter sounds like singing, acoustic guitars, etc... SM57s are great for things like snare drums and stuff like that. But as far as condenser mics, I can vouch for the Rode NT1a. It's just a bit more expensive than what you're saying, but man... it really sounds incredible for vocals. Awesome mic. Anyway... That's my two cents. PM me if you want to talk more. That's an awesome present too btw. Oh! Good call on the Focusrite too. They make great shit. But yep, I hope he likes whatever you end up getting. :-)

u/Laserous · 1 pointr/Twitch

If quality is a big deal for you I suggest a Rode NT1A. We stream as a team and the mic can pickup the room quite well. This option is not cheap as the mic + USB converter came to a pricetag of roughly $500. We stream with the NT1A running into a Line 6 UX2. Our room isn't soundproofed but the quality is pretty stellar.

u/OGGreenRanger69 · 1 pointr/Twitch

Thanks for the help!!

Ok so I have another question then.

If I get a xlr mic I plug that into the Behringer 202, and plug the Behringer 202 into my PC?

I'm thinking about getting this- - So if I bought that and the Behringer 202 I would be set?


I'm also confused about this- so I use this mic setup for my stream, then I guess I just have the mic plugged into my gaming headset and use that at the same time so people I am playing with on PS4 can still hear me?



u/hairsketchcompany · 1 pointr/recording

I couldn't agree more with /u/SativaGanesh 's comment below. I'll add that when you start learning to record, your focus should be on signal flow, gain staging, microphone technique, and learning how to edit and mix audio. Until you have a handle on the basics, a tape machine won't be beneficial to you. And when you DO have a handle on the basics, consider getting an internship at an analogue studio. If you're sharp and likeable, you'll probably have an opportunity to learn how to use a tape machine and console.

Here's what I suggest for your home setup. You can get a perfectly usable interface for around $150. That apparently comes with Pro Tools, but Reaper is a full-featured DAW that sounds great and supports most plugin formats out there. It's $60 for a full license. Here is a perfectly adequate microphone made by Rode. (Or if you can spend $600 go for the K2, it's awesome.) These speakers are halfway decent and will get you started on the right foot.

u/RanthonyNegron · 1 pointr/VoiceActing

Nice nice! Thank you for responding :D. This is the one you were talking about right?

Does this seem like a good price for it? Also, where did you get your Scarlett 2i2 at?

u/tartersawce · 1 pointr/battlestations

This is the Mic and the power amp is here

u/aeon_orion · 1 pointr/audioengineering

If you can stretch the budget a Rode NT1A is always a good choice.

u/tobelplays · 1 pointr/letsplay

I was in your boat when I swapped to XLR and it was really confusing.


So I bought a Rode NT1-A XLR microphone and a Focusrite Scarlett and have been very very happy with both. Specifically this one ( ). I had a random foam pop filter head that I use over my mic, I don't like the screen personally. For YouTube videos you really don't need to be all that concerned about the pop filter. You can reduce any popping noises by offsetting your microphone a bit.


My complete setup:

Rode NT1-A mic

Focusrite Scarlett solo

Rose PSA1 swivel boom arm

Reaper digital audio workspace


I record on about 60% gain and I do all of my post-processing in Reaper. I've been very happy with my equipment and didn't have too many issues at the start. There were some driver hurdles which took a few hours of mucking around to figure out. Sound quality has been fine since.

u/SJ_holmes · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey guys! I've recently decided to invest in a solid condenser mic and an audio interface. I would be recording keyboard, acoustic guitar, (maybe electric, but not a priority) and vocals. I am on a pretty low budget as I am also attending university, but would love some feedback on the options I have narrowed it down to, or suggestions for equipment I should consider instead would be welcome too! For the AI, I thought either the PreSonus
or the Mackie Onyx
would suit my needs just fine. For the mic, I have narrowed it down to between the Rode NT1A
and the Audio Technica 2035
Once again any feedback/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!Thanks again!

u/toucan38 · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Hello dear saints of the audio world,

I go by the name of TheBirdReich (you can call me Bird) and I do a lot of broadcasting on Twitch. Recently, I've been looking into upgrading my audio setup from my USB Blue Yeti microphone to a XlR microphone. I have a lot of questions because the transitional phase from the plug and play usb mics to XLR mics is pretty hefty. My budget is for the new setup is about $500.

  1. Dynamic or Condensor?

    For my application of "in home live audio streaming", which would be most applicable? (Disclaimer: I yell a lot)
    The mic I was intending on purchasing was the NT1-A. Link is here:

  2. Necessary equipment?

    a. Is it a good idea to purchase a preamp to supply the phantom power, and adjust audio before it reaches my computer? Is it necessary?
    This was the one I was looking at:

    c. Will I need an audio interface to convert the line output of my microphone to a digital output to my computer no matter the type of mic I use? Do you have any budget friendly recommendations?

    Overall I'm really unsure about what to even purchase, mainly because of the lack of knowledge, and I don't want to end up spending more than I have to. I know the creed for audio engineers is to spend no more on equipment that meets their requirements. :) I greatly appreciate your input and the fact that you're taking time out your day to help!
    If you have recommendations on gear or items that you know would be good for my application I'd be happy to hear from you on them!

    Thanks ahead of time!
u/LunarUmbra · 1 pointr/photography
  1. Set your drive mode to burst.
  2. Set your exposure mode to manual.
  3. Set the shutter speed to 5 seconds as a test (Looks like 5" in the LCD)
  4. Leave the lens cap on.
  5. Hold down the shutter button and see what happens.

    Now pretend you had selected 30 seconds in step 5. That's all there is to it. You can hold the button down forever and it will take one 30 second shot every 30 seconds.

    The question is: How do you hold the button down for so long without having to actually hold the button down? That's what a remote release is for. Most of them have a mechanism to hold the button down for you. Usually you hold the button down then slide a switch up while still holding it down. The switch locks it into place.

    I don't know if the IR remote you have as a "Hold" feature. It might not. But a wired remote release is very cheap. Here's one for under $7. Notice that the plate surrounding the button is actually a switch that locks the button down if you slide it upward.

    However, if you're going to spend money, you may as well get a fancy one! That one is programmable, and will still work like I said above, even with no batteries. When programmed, you can do all sorts of things with it: time lapse, delayed shots, timed bulb shots. Even repeated, timed bulb shots, so you can take repeated exposures longer than 30 seconds, if you wish.
u/00nightsteel · 1 pointr/photography

Here's a cheap one. I got the same thing for my camera just the one for sony instead. It does the job nothing really to say other than that lol.

u/orsomedamnthing · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

something like this:

I've got the magic lantern now on my camera, but haven't took the timelapse function for a spin. ML is free, you might want to try that for a built in solution.

u/filya · 1 pointr/astrophotography

Thanks for the detailed information. Helps a lot. Please read my comments below.

  1. I already have this intervalometer. Forgot to mention that.

  2. I have this tripod. Do I still need those mounts you mention?

  3. I use Photoshop and Lightroom for processing photos. Of course, they don't do any special processing. The price on the Pixinsight looks a bit steep for now. I might look into purchasing it once I actually start taking good photos :)

  4. The polar scope looks expensive too. For now, if I can get by with the bare minimum, I would prefer that. How bad will it be if I don't use this?

  5. Is there a reason I can't use longer lenses with the Vixen Polarie? The longest lens I have is the 250mm, but I would be okay shooting at 100 too.

    Other than milky way shots, and maybe some nice night landscapes, what else could one do with a wide angle tracking? Those equatorial mounts are way out of my budget.

    I did look into some manual screw barn door trackers, but thought the Vixen Polarie would be way better than those.
u/Darknyt007 · 1 pointr/astrophotography

Neewer LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control for Canon 700D/T5i, 650D/T4i, 550D/T2i, 500D/T1i, 350D/XT, 400D/XTi, 1000D/XS, 450D/XSi, 60D, 100D, and Pentax

u/beatsnbanjos · 1 pointr/canon This is the one I have for my SL2 (200d) and it's great! Cheap enough that I don't have to worry about throwing it around, easy enough to use, and pretty darn handy!

u/mrbubbles916 · 1 pointr/flightsim

I don't know of any tutorials off hand but you could just google "timelapse photography".

My setup was a tripod, Canon T1i DSLR, 8mm fisheye lens, and a cheap intervelometer.

A lot of newer cameras have timelapse functions built into the camera. GoPros, for instance. Otherwise you need an external intervelometer to trigger the camera shutter at whatever intervals you want to use.

My goal was to make a video about 1.5 minutes long so I made sure to use an interval that would equate to at least 30 frames per second in the final video, in order to have a smooth looking video. I shot for about 5 hours and came up with about 3500 individual photos.

To make a video out of those photos I used Adobe Premier and they make it pretty easy. I think(it's been a while) you just drag and drop them into the editor and it automatically creates a video clip which you then export.

To make the star trail photo I used a free program called Star Trails that stacks each photo on top of one another but only adds in differences between them. Photoshop can do this as well.

u/Enduer · 1 pointr/photography

Lol my bad, I totally misinterpreted your original question.

Doing it with a camera is a bit more complex, but it isn't hard! Any basic DSLR would work. I'm most familiar with Canon, so like a used Canon t2i or something would work for you. Someone else can maybe chime in with other suggestions. Hopefully any camera you would get would come with a lens. Prices might be all over on this. You just need any camera with an auxiliary shutter port.

You'll also need something like this:

That device is called an intervalometer and it lets you take pictures repeatedly and at set intervals.

Finally, you'll just need a tripod for the camera. You probably don't need a super fancy one and can get one for less than 30 bucks on Amazon.

Put the camera under an umbrella or get a water cover for it, again, less than 20 bucks.

You'll need an SD card to store your photos on too.

Finally, once you have all of your photos taken, you need software to put the time lapse together. There is a ton of time lapse specific software out there, and you can snag that, or you can use Lightroom and some of the available plugins for it to create your final video. I've always used Lightroom in the past and it works pretty well but if you find yourself doing this on a regular basis you might wanna invest in the specialized software.

Hope this helps!

u/Swampfoot · 1 pointr/canon

That one will work, but there are many less expensive options that are the exact same product, just branded differently.

I have this version, (as you can see, it's the same product) - only $18 - which works beautifully for any kind of intervalometry (time lapses) and also, the main button will trip the shutter remotely. If you have the camera in bulb mode, it's great for fireworks, since you can hold the shutter open as long as you like.

If you don't need any kind of intervalometry or programmability, but need to be able to hold the shutter open manually, this one is even cheaper yet. It's the one I use for fireworks.

u/rideThe · 1 pointr/photography

You'll have to buy a third-party remote control that is compatible with your camera's remote port. I'm not vouching for it (I don't know how good/reliable it is), but here's an example of what you are looking for.

u/adackbar18 · 1 pointr/astrophotography

You could also consider buying a remote shutter release (Here is what I bought for $20).

Having to press the shutter button will shake your camera and possibly make for a more frustrating imaging session, but using one of these lets you time shots and take pics without having to touch the camera body. I haven't personally used BackyardEOS or any of the apps but they offer similar (and more) benefits.

u/dammitOtto · 1 pointr/videos

I actually just ordered one of these for my camera to see if it can do what I am thinking. Dunno but will give it a shot!

u/JMGurgeh · 1 pointr/pics

You can also pick up something like this pretty cheap, and just set it up to continuously take shots at your specified settings (0 interval).

I mean, if you're too lazy to sit there pressing the shutter release every 5-10 seconds.

u/diabetic_debate · 1 pointr/photography


Or this

I think a majority of Canon remote shutter releases work with most Canon DSLRS. I am wrong. Thanks /u/CarVac for correcting me.

u/chiefmonkey · 1 pointr/Lenovo

Similar to these on Amazon

u/merrickx · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Microfiber cloth.

I get these ones here. They're cheap and come in a pack of several that will last a long while.

I use a small dab of saliva for smudges and stuff as there aren't too many liquid/spray cleaning solutions that don't leave streaks and residue.

u/JulieGrenn · 1 pointr/WeddingPhotography

So here is my wishlist for Camera things I sent my husband:

Think Tank Bag

I actually just got this for our anniversary on Halloween and it's freaking amazing. I love Think Tank everything because a) they're so incredibly thoughtful in their design and b) they're made incredibly well. This bag is replacing the current bag I carry JUST lenses and accessories in on the wedding day. On that note their rollerbag is what I use to carry everything and it's also amazing.

Helios Lens

This is basically a trash russian lens that provides really interesting bokeh and intense, awesome sun flare.


I have one of these already, there's a lot of reviews about camera straps, but as a woman it's been the most comfortable strap I've had. I have the American Bison one, it's very soft and incredibly well made. I get compliments on it at weddings all the time, it looks super professional!

Apple Watch

So nice for checking time, texting, and keeping track of timelines on the day of. I love it.


If she needs any computer upgrades that would be a great option too. I need a new mouse because mine is a piece of shit, but monitors, monitor calibration, wacom tablet, etc could be nice too.

All the Microfiber cloths, batteries and SD cards

I buy all these things like candy every season. You can really never have enough of any of them.

As far as her home studio, the first thing I would look at is her chair. Art is nice and everything, but loving her chair and workspace makes such a huge difference. It's hard sitting ALL DAY, my back and neck hurt after a full day. I re-did most of my office and bought a bunch of plants and a new desk and it's made my days much better. Next purchase is a chair.

Hope this helps! I'm sure she'll love whatever you get her :).

u/crispychoc · 1 pointr/ipad

I use these, I have about 10 of them lying around (bag, work, etc..), they're excellent and machine washable.

I use them on my TV, MacBook, iPad, iPhone, bathroom mirror.

Use once or twice, then they go in the wash.

Read the reviews, I I did, and honestly you won't be disappointed.

u/Kasarii · 1 pointr/ultrawidemasterrace

There are also monitor sprays that will dry quickly after you spray it, dries faster than regular water. Also use a microfiber cloth and you'll avoid scratching it which you might if you used a more coarse cloth.

edit: Microfiber cloth that I use

u/dothefandango · 1 pointr/ipad

I think that's a huge design flaw if so, and they had definitely thought about it. My dad has one and has never complained, and I have a crappier version of the ZaggKeys made by Logitech and haven't experienced a scratch at all. If it really bothers you, I would get a small microfiber cloth and lay it over the keys. They are good for cleaning fingerprints anyhow, and are cheap (~$9 6pk, here)

u/ohhoee · 1 pointr/IAmA

Just buy these man

They're so cheap, I'm super anal about having super clean glasses and I have a bunch of these lying around at work and at home and in my bag. I can't live without them.

u/kllaya · 1 pointr/Whatisthis

Sounds like a microfiber cloth like these
MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 6 PACK

u/james26685 · 1 pointr/PSVR

Fold up the cleaning cloth that came with it into a rectangle and pack it in over the lenses when not in use. This protects from dust scratches and sunlight, costs you nothing (you should have gotten the cloth with your unit). Or you can order nicer larger ones

u/quazimootoo · 1 pointr/Vive

I only use microfiber cloths like the ones used for glasses or the included one with the vive. I picked up a 3 pack at my local Walmart but this is essentially the same thing. I only use the wipes to clean it, no water or anything just wipe it with light pressure, haven't noticed any scratches.

u/Skatingraccoon · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

I personally use Zeiss Lens Cleaning Wipes ( though you can also use a spray.

Then you get some microfiber cloths - - and that should be all you need.

When possible rinse them off with water or cleaning solution first to push big things (eyelashes, dirt, etc.) off that could cause micro-abrasions to your glasses.

Good luck! I've been wearing glasses for most of my life and they suck :(

u/anoxy · 1 pointr/mac

Etsy for stickers. Just search "Macbook decals" or if you have something specific in mind add that. I found some cool Adventure time decals there.

I also got my sleeve there...a nice handmade leather sleeve.

You might want to get a keyboard cover if you use your macbook a lot with dirty hands, or while eating something. Helps keep stuff out of the cracks and crevices and your keys shine free.

Also be sure to get yourself a nice micro-fiber cloth like this to wipe your screen; don't be afraid of wiping it down with considerable force; it's glass, so unless you're rubbing it with sand, it won't scratch. Use a little water if you need.

Other than that, maybe a ps4 or xbox controller for light gaming on the go? A Logitech UE Boom for better, wireless or wired, sound on the go (if you don't want to use headphones)

u/extremeelementz · 1 pointr/OLED
u/Kintaro08 · 1 pointr/oculus

These cloths work great, i always keep one on me for my glasses, cellphone, and camera.

MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 6 PACK

And i wash them in these.

Set of 5 Mesh Laundry Bags-1 large, 2 medium & 2 small for Laundry,Blouse, Hosiery, Stocking, Underwear, Bra and Lingerie, Travel Laundry Bag

I've bot a bunch of the cloths because I kept misplacing them. So every once in a while I round them all up toss them in a laundry bag and throw it in the wash.

u/Futonpimp · 1 pointr/MSILaptops
u/puffybaba · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Use a microfiber cloth. Like one of these for example.

u/BWC_semaJ · 1 pointr/buildapc

Personally I am going to try and avoid parts for his build because of not knowing exactly what he has.

You could get him zip ties, velcro strips, tool kit (just search computer tool kit on amazon), usb drive, DAC/AMP, nice router, custom mouse pad, nice pair of head phones, power supply tester, Electricity Usage Monitor, Electric Duster, Microfiber Cleaning Cloths, 99% Isopropyl Alcohol (rubbing alcohol),... I could keep on going but I think you get the idea. Hopefully when you post your build I'll come back to edit my comment.

u/Eckerput · 1 pointr/oculus

I just got a bunch of new ones, they weren't that expensive ( I use mine for about six months and then switch to a new one.

u/jacf29 · 1 pointr/GearVR

I'd get these to wipe the lenses with. I got them based off the superior Amazon reviews, and have yet to be disappointed. They are so tightly knit that you can wipe the lenses, and then shake or brush the dust off that you collected from the cloth.

u/Newman4185 · 1 pointr/buildapc

It was not hard to build the mobo into the case, just keep on top of your cable management. If you can, remove the HD sled first (unless of course you need it). All the screws come with the products that I purchased, yes. Be careful about stripping screws, just use the proper driver (no power!). I believe I have 8 standoffs mounted + 1 nub that comes pre-attached to the case. I probably watched ALL the youtube videos, lol.

Things I made sure I had for my build before all my parts showed up.

  1. Anti Static wristband

  2. Computer screw set I did end up stripping a screw or two and had to replace them from here.

  3. Nice microfiber cloth for the tempered glass leave the plastic on the glass during the build, it will get loaded with finger prints.

  4. Screwdriver set you probably already have this, I just wanted magnetic ones.

  5. Fine screwdriver I used this A LOT.

  6. Magnetic screw tray

    I got most of these items as a tip from a youtube video but I can not find it at the moment. Yeah, definitely let me know if you need help with anything or just want me to show you "how I did it". The manual for the mother board has the header LEDs defined on there, there is one dead spot (no pin) in the top right, obviously dont use that one but also don't use the one below it even though its labeled ground for the reset button (thats the only issue I had).
u/f4cepa1m · 1 pointr/oculus
u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 1 pointr/gopro

I just got a Transcend 45MB/sec 64GB SD card on Amazon for $39.

You can get 2 batteries with a charger by Wasabi for $23.

Here's the chesty for $8

u/deniskoch · 1 pointr/gopro

I went for both, the Bacpac and the spare battery just because I could and because of the advantages of having each. I'll go through what I like about each of them and what I find them both to be useful for, hopefully that'll help you.

The Bacpac to me has been very good because it doesn't add a lot of bulk to the GoPro but does manage to extend the battery life by quite a bit. I can't give you any numbers, but I've done half a day of snowboarding with one fully charged battery and Bacpac as a reference. What's also nice about the Bacpac is that if you use the Skeleton Backdoor for it you have access to the MicroUSB charging port on it, so you can charge it while in use; I use this when I'm in a car (on the racetrack or on roadtrips) to be able to film continuously. So far this has somewhat replaced the Frame Housing as it allows me to charge the camera.

As for the spare batteries, I went with the Wasabi Power option as it is very cheap, gives you two batteries equivalent in quality to the GoPro batteries and comes with a charger for both power outlets and cars. If I were to only use my GoPro for outdoor activities I have to say I'd probably go for that option as changing batteries is very swift and three fully charged batteries usually last the whole day for me.

Hope this helped and if you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask!

u/spyder93090 · 1 pointr/gopro

Yeah, that's about the first thing I noticed as well.

But realistically speaking, I don't know how much power you can cram into such a small package; especially with such powerful recording capabilities (i.e. 1080p at 60p)

Sucks even worse with the WiFi on. I haven't really done a maxed out test but after like 1.5 to 2 hours of nominal use (i.e. pulling it out once every 5 or 10 minutes for a 2 to 3 minute recording) will get me down to the last battery bar. GoPro states 1 to 1.5 hours on their website depending on which settings you're using.

I would say <1hr. is a little exaggerated though, in which case, I would try to get an exchange from wherever you got it from to see if you just got a faulty battery. Also, of course, try updating the firmware.

I am thinking about picking up the Wasabi Battery Pack from Amazon for $24.

u/mekranil · 1 pointr/gopro

I saw someone else mentioned it, but here is the link to the cheap battery/charger combo:

It comes with a wall charger, 2 batteries, and a car adapter to use the wall charger in your car. All for around 25 bucks, whereas 1 gopro battery is 20.

u/Call_me_John · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have five batteries. I stop every now and then for a smoke or a soda, so it's no trouble exchanging the battery while i'm there.

But there are other ways. This guy builds a charger that doesn't modify the waterproof case, and instead of hooking it up to a 12V socket on your bike, you could connect it to one of those portable USB chargers (they reach 20000mAh now, maybe even more). That should extend its life considerably, you're more likely to run out of space on the memory card than out of power.

I wouldn't recommend the BacPac.. I spent less on my four extra batteries (plus charger) than I would have for a BacPac, which theoretically doubles your recording time. They're off brand, of course, but have had no issues with them the past year, and seem to last at least as much as the original (2 are 1600mAh, they definitely last longer by 10-15 minutes).

Search or, there are plenty of options. Or you could go for something more tried and tested, such as the Wasabis.

u/Tibincrunch · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have the Hero3 black and it works great. I record at 720p 60fps wide and get around 40 minutes per battery. Obviously there are some improvements with the later models but if you're mainly looking to record while riding for insurance/dashcam purposes the Hero 3 will work just fine. If you are interested in making high quality videos or using the camera elsewhere then I would maybe consider the Hero3+ or waiting for the Hero4.

The curved sticky mount that came with works great on the top of my helmet. I'm not sure how to mount on the chin, sorry. As long as your mount is secure the video will be nice and smooth.

I would highly recommend picking this bundle from Amazon - includes 2 batteries and a wall charger:

If you have any other questions let me know.

u/UndeadCaesar · 1 pointr/gopro

In my opinion I'd skip the chest mount and get a telescoping mount, like this one. You'll be able to get cool looking selfies without looking like a complete ass and you can make some interesting shots (over walls, off the edge of buildings, etc.) with the pole at full length. And when you're just doing normal-er handheld stuff you can just reel the pole in to minimum length and use it as a palm grip.

Edit: Also get one of these because it's the best accessory deal there is. Two batteries and a wall charger for $24.

Edit 2: Also unless you're really strapped for cash the black version is weeeellll worth it over the silver. The amount of increased control and shooting modes you have over the Silver will last forever and you only have to pay for it once :). If you hunt around you can usually find some kind of online coupon that brings the price down, I know REI does a 20% off single item coupon every 6 months or so that can save you a bundle on pricier items.

u/carsgobeepbeep · 1 pointr/scuba

Get extras, they're cheap!

I carry three batteries for my 3+ Silver but have found that two is actually enough for 5 dives a day. I change them at the same time I change my memory card, which is typically during a long surface interval or over lunch. No big deal! (note, not for the GoPro 4 apparently)

u/jamierosevideo · 1 pointr/gopro

Just buy extra batteries, third party ones are pretty decent and cheap.

i bought these and they work fine. Yeah they do drain fast but that happens with every model. good luck!

u/mmcnama4 · 1 pointr/gopro

Thanks for these tips. I have two extra batteries and they are an awesome addition, makes life a bit easier.

u/masterbatts · 1 pointr/gopro

I brought 3 batteries, including the original GoPro battery. I bought this and used a solar charger as a backup but ended up not needing it at all. I got the solar charger for $50 at Lowe's, surprisingly.

EDIT: I also only brought the 3-way mount and chest mount. It worked perfectly. Wish I'd brought the headmount; sparpole climbing would've been pretty cool.
Tip: learn how to use the camera and how you want to be able to edit the footage when you're done. I moreso learned how to use the camera on this trip.

u/gmanji212 · 1 pointr/gopro

I bought mine from amazon here:

not sure if it's the same link you're using...
but i also signed up for a month free trial with amazon prime as they give you one free 1-day delivery with the trial, you can then stop it from auto-renewing onto a paying contract immediately. worked a treat, arrived within two days!

u/ProjectBomb · 1 pointr/gopro

Bought this a few months for my Hero 3+. Works great and the charger is awesome for both the wall and car.

u/Skelotic · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

Another solution that I used for the Vive lighthouses (and will keep for the new ones I'll get with the full Index kit) is these poles:

and these clamps:

I decided to use these instead of tripods so that less floor space is taken up since I plan on leaving them up for a while.

u/Brewtooth · 1 pointr/Vive

Hers my setup. Not too detailed; but explains itself: I bought the parts from Amazon. Love it!

Edit: more details...
FastCap 3rd Hand Support System 57-to-144-Inches, 2-pack #3HAND5


Smallrig® Cool Ballhead Arm V4 Multi-function Double Ball Adapter with Bottom Clamp & ...

u/TokyoBenedict · 1 pointr/osmopocket

Smallrig came in handy for time lapses or just to record in awkward places where a tripod was required or somewhere or recording in a place where an extension rod would've come in handy but I didn't have it on me.

For example a railing or pillar with a nice view but it's too narrow to stick a tripod on. No problem. Clamp the rig on the railing or pillar.

I was at a restaurant where the railing and pillars were too thick for the clamp. Fortunately the outdoor chairs were narrow enough for the clamp and they were easy to move. There were tables but they were too low and I didn't have my tripod nor an extension rod around.

During a flight, I recorded video for the take off. I was able to clamp onto the window cover and sit back as the pocket was recording.

Kudos to Megatide for the suggestion

u/sleepybrett · 1 pointr/Vive
u/ingridelena · 1 pointr/photography

Thank you for all your input! I'll definitely try this set up out.

To mount the camera i was thinking about using a backdrop stand and attaching this to it:

I did look at some of the DIY options earlier but most of them seemed to require drills and power tools that I don't have.

u/NumberVive · 1 pointr/SteamVR

I'm talking about these: and coupled with these

I guess I should have called it a support rod...

The alternative was a pair of these: and a set of these

I used the tripods at first and they worked ok, but any time I stepped too close to the legs, the carpet would dip down just enough to make the tip of the tripod sway and cause me to lose tracking.

u/tosvus · 1 pointr/Vive

I still prefer the pole setup. I bought these quick release plates:


and these ballhead clamps:


More expensive though...

u/xairrick · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

With the spinning mirror inside I wouldn't trust it to 3M Command strip. If you don't want to drill holes in wall, then maybe a small mounting bracket like this could be used if you have shelves or something to attach to

u/amoxy · 1 pointr/seaplanes

I use a couple angles: One on my jury strut and one on the tail handle, held on by these guys: and

Here's an example:

You don't have jury struts in the 185, but I do know that someone makes a strut camera mount thingy. My system may work on your stringer, it's a cool view, but not super useful for most of the takeoff or landing run as it just gets pummeled by water.

u/gardnsound · 1 pointr/NewTubers

It'll grow faster if your gear is right. Those little things really make a difference.

Try the "Takstar" microphone. I love mine, they're Rode nockoffs and they're great.

u/Animation_exe · 1 pointr/youtube

Depends on your budget and what videos ur making.

Shotgun mic:TAKSTAR SGC-598

Camera I would recommend: Canon vixia hf r800

Video editing depends what your computer can handle and what video ur making. I use hitfilm express which is free. However it needs a decent gpu of some sort. Shotcut on the other hand is pretty basic and runs well on lower end hardware.
(Make sure you use express)

u/RickyDuNorth · 1 pointr/microphones

I'll be starting a new job which has a long commute and I would like to vlog during that commute. I'll be using a DSLR for video and want a quick and easy setup. My budget it $75 CAD and I live in Canada.

I'm kind of stumped on the audio part because while I appreciate good quality sound I also want a setup that's quick. I want to spend the least amount of time possible to set everything up in the morning and between shots. I don't need film or documentary quality audio for this.

I was considering this mic:

However I don't have any previous experience with shotgun mics. I'm not sure if it's a good option if I'm not always facing the camera.

u/Eddie0309 · 1 pointr/ARG

With the found-footage genre you have a lot of freedom to create with limited resources.

You get a lot of wiggle room with exposure, framing, shakiness, and (mostly) sound. You don't have to follow rules/standards of cinematic film, considering it's made to look and sound like someone just picked up a camera and hit record. You just need to know you should write things you know you can make, so that no wild post-production or high-budget set design will be needed.

But for the most part, all you need is a camera. A camera-mounted shotgun mic could do your sound nicely, but even that isn't essential for found-footage.

Your house/neighborhood setting shows you're not being overambitious, which is great.

Also, side note, I have had this extremely similar idea that seems to align exactly with what you're going for, both thematically and stylistically. I'm a film student in South Florida and I'm most likely going to write a draft in the coming weeks for this "found-footage web series figuring out an ARG with your life on the line" idea for my screenwriting class.

I'm interested in hearing more about what you're trying to do, would you like to PM?

u/yaranaika_megaman2 · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7

I have a Movo VXR40. It might not be ideal due to the long wire and the fact that the shoe mount needs to be epoxied for better stability, but I've found it to be quite useful. I have a boom stand and I ended up using it with my Zoom H4n and boom instead of on my camera shoe.

Rode is a well-respected brand, but they are pricey and you can get better on-camera mics for less money, albeit at a visual aesthetic penalty (but let's be honest: who cares what your mic looks like?) The "affordable" Rode mics get lackluster reviews and are not very good; I'd buy nothing lower than the VideoMic Pro due to various issues I've read and listened to in comparison tests.

If I wanted an on-camera mic on the cheap today, I'd go with the ~$30 Takstar SGC-598 as can be heard compared against two cheaper Rode mics in this video where it gives the Rode mics a run for their money.

Two caveats: on-camera audio sucks, even with a good mic; you'll get better audio if a mic on a boom stand is an option; also, the G7 heavily compresses audio to 128 Kbps AAC which is not suitable for a significant amount of post-processing, but is perfectly fine for personal recordings or pro stuff where inaudible losses of quality won't be pushed enough to be heard.

u/kendo · 1 pointr/videography

After seeing a lot of YouTube reviews for it, I went with the TAKSTAR SGC-598. It’s a bit big for a 6500 (I use a Sony A7sii on rails), but it sounds pretty good, and under $30. Uses one AA battery, and has +10 dB boost.

u/rocknokusogaki · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7
u/jumosc · 1 pointr/Nikon

You can also use a rig/hotshoe adapters to lift the mic further from the camera/lens.

Also I chose these over the Rode mics and have no regrets but lots more money in my pocket:

TAKSTAR SGC-598 Interview Microphone for Nikon/Canon Camera/DV Camcorder

u/phantom_genius · 1 pointr/Nikon

I recommend the TAKSTAR SGC - 598 (as said in another comment)

For Film, your best bet is to invest in a follow focus so that you can manually focus on various subjects with precise focus and so you have full control. I often times end up using my ZOOM H1 with a hot shoe to tripod adapter piece and just use my Zoom an external mic since you'll need one anyway to record external audio. If you would like to use autofocus while filming, my advice would be to invest in a quiet lens. I've heard that the popular Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 is really quiet and has stunning results. That's just my 2 cents.

u/tybot1 · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Are you using a DSLR camera? If so, start of with something cheap like this. Start off with trying to get good audio of voices, and when you're comfortable with that, try and get good audio of things you are seeing (ex. if someone puts their glass on the table in your short film, go back and record the sound of the glass being put on the table and insert the audio to sync up with the video)

u/madsfilms · 1 pointr/videography

From reading the other comments I'm guessing you don't so I would either get a used camera or use your phone. The budget of yours is quite limiting to fit in audio, lighting and a decent camera however it may work if you get a slightly older camera.

I would get the t3i body only which you can get at an average of $300. This has an articulating screen, good for interviews, and is still a good beginner camera years on from when it was released. The lens I would get is the YONGYUO YN50mm f.18 which is an cheap autofocus lens at a fixed distance to achieve the best quality.

For microphones I would reccommend the Takstar SGC-598 which is really cheap and surprisingly good. You can put this on a mic stand and get it as close to both the interviewer and the interviewee for the best sound. You will then need a wire to connect it to the camera. However if you have extra money you can save up for a Zoom h1 which you plug the mic into and it records seperately for better audio.

All in all this kit will cost you $500 for just the audio and no lighting. This would cost you about $50 extra for softboxes however if you shoot in daylight it will be much easier and require less lighting.

Another kit you could try is using your phone for video and then buying just audio and lighting. For this I would get the Rode Videomic Pro, the Zoom h1, a mic stand, a softbox lighting kit (2 lights) and any other things like memory cards etc. This would cost you around $400.

u/Jerb2000 · 1 pointr/weddingvideography

Get a Takstar shotgun mic: amazon (only $27 USD!!)

To anyone other than video / audio professionals, the audio quality difference is unnoticeable when compared to the rode video mic pro. Just tried it out for the first time on a wedding a couple weeks ago and it was fantastic. Incredibly useful investment.

u/ScannerBrightly · 1 pointr/videography

> Tascam dr 22wl

Your Tascam with it's XY is going to pick up everything in the room, just about. That'll be great for family videos, but if you want to shoot anything dramatic or promotional, a lav mic would be your best bet.

Personally, I was in a pinch one day and got this cheap shotgun mic and it's slightly warmer and has a slightly fuller sound than my more expensive AudioTechnica shotgun. Trouble is, both of them start to suck at over 5 feet away, so that's why I suggest a lav.

Other than that, does that Tascam have both a headphone AND a line out? I use a Tascam DR-80 and I use the line out just as /u/HybridCamRev suggested, so I can match audio nicely.

u/steamknight563 · 1 pointr/videography


Just a couple more questions
Someone suggested a cheap shotgun mic that provides comparable audio quality to the more expensive rode mics. Here it is:

Could it go along with the tascam instead of the rode?

One last thing about the dual audio setup. So if I have the right idea, pretty much what's going on is that the shotgun mic (is the only one recording), and it records to the tascam? So having the shotgun mic record to the tascam provides much better quality then if it were recording to the camera?

Thank and sorry for all the questions!

u/VisibleEvidence · 1 pointr/Filmmakers


Get a $23 Takstar SGC-598 mic and strap it to the top of your camera. Is it perfect? No. But it records nicely and no one watching my film notices the difference.

Good luck.

u/captaineleven · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah. I might test out another USB mic that I've had for years; I bought it about 5 years ago: CAD U37. This is what I used to use with some of my older videos on Youtube. Then I got a TAKSTAR shotgun mic to hook up to my mirrorless camera. I might compare those two with the Insignia. We'll see! I mostly did it to avoid doing homework lol

As for the stereo, it's not the most accurate, but I do like how deep it sounds. Would have to play with the placement of it in relation to the board; I don't have a mic stand/arm that fits the threading that it has. It uses a smaller mount.

u/LJBrooker · 1 pointr/Vive

I got a couple of extending telescopic rods (I assume you're US, on your amazon they seem to call them Tension rods I think), then a couple of these. Do the trick just fine.

u/the_upvotesman · 1 pointr/Vive

That's some pretty resourceful repurposing/planning. Not sure if I can help find something that collapses smaller than the 19" tripods; however, I did buy some quick release mounts for my portable setup so I wouldn't have to screw something onto the ends of the tripods and extend their default height. Maybe they could help you maintain that 19" compactness:

u/RibsNGibs · 1 pointr/Vive

I'm actually using a separate setup now (poles and clamps ) and I've seen the issue happen with both this setup and the original setup (the wallmount that came with the Vive).

Those clamps I'm using now aren't the sturdiest things ever, but the "angle up and down" adjustment is ratcheted, so I'm sure the angle isn't drooping over time...

u/AvanteWolf · 1 pointr/Vive

Hey everyone,

I can't drill my walls currently, so I need to buy something as a mounting solution for the time being. I am going to purchase this pole with this clamp and I was wondering if there is anything else I need to buy.

Also, one last question, I have heard that the nintendo wii wrist straps are the best ones to get, so would this version be the correct one to purchase?

Thanks in advance.

u/Hotrian · 1 pointr/Vive

If price is not an issue, a number of users reported success with these extendable beams ($70 per pair) coupled with some mounting clamps such as these ones here ($13 each).

A slightly cheaper option would be to get two of these ($26 each), though I haven't seen this one in particular used for the lighthouses yet, it looks like it should work great. Another option would be to use regular old tripods, which many users have also reported success with.

u/thyazide · 1 pointr/Vive

I got you bro.

The only caviate I have is with the usb extender. I couldn't use the front camera on the headset when it was routed through the usb to ethernet extender. This may be a limitation of the one I chose. Otherwise, everything works perfectly.

u/SchwiftySquanchC137 · 1 pointr/Vive

Grifiti Nootle Quick Release Pipe Clamp with 1/4 20 Threaded Head for Cameras and Nootle Ipad Mounts Works for Tripods, Music Stands, Microphone Stands, Any Pipe or Bar That Is up to 1.5 Inches in Diameter Also Motorcycles, Bikes, and More

Copied two links, one harbor freight, one from Amazon. The first are poles you can brace against the floor and ceiling. These were important for me because I didn't want to put holes in the wall and normal tripods would wiggle when you walk by them due to our fake wood floors sagging a bit under weight.

The second are clips that screw into to the lighthouse and clamp to the pole.

These have been great, but really anything with the same threading as that clamp would work with the light houses so you can hang them however you want. I've also seen shower curtain rods used to replace the cargo bars

u/Minirappen · 1 pointr/Vive

I'm gonna use clamps. Since i got element pipes going up in one corner of the room.
[Im currently looking at something like this] (
And since my desk is in the other corner, i'll just put up a long rod to mount it on. No drilling.

u/Darklo · 1 pointr/Vive

I think you are describing a support rod. I have two of these and I attach my sensors to them with this kind of clamp. I love this setup because I can easily take it down and take it with me. I demo the Vive at conventions for a non-profit, and these really come in handy because of how secure and slim they are.

u/Stridyr · 1 pointr/Vive
u/Mr_Happy123 · 1 pointr/Vive

this and this might work too if you have a flat roof
and i think ima do holopoint, ive tried that before and have an ich for it

u/lph0enXl · 1 pointr/Vive

Yeah I also thought about that. I think I will just order some not too cheap, but not very high price Poles and mount them theree with clamps. Then I can test that.

It hink that ones will do?ütze-Montagestütze-Tragkraft-Blitzspanner/dp/B019IH5BH2/ref=pd_cp_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=65P586V0H8M2PJD178XS

u/sqweak · 1 pointr/simracing

That’s pretty much it’s name in English. Also will work with “constant tension shower rod” here are the ones I used for my 9 ft ceilings, and these are the clamps

u/onestephiki · 1 pointr/Vive

If you had enough money to spend on a Vive then spend a little more on these extension poles and clamps. Like me I guarantee you will be happy that you went the extra mile as you will no longer be restricted in mounting them, nor will you lose space like you would with tripods and your Vive will gain portability. They have longer ones if you have high ceilings as well also check out our wiki for other mounting solutions just kidding where the fuck did that page for it go?

u/ElectricZ · 1 pointr/Vive

A buddy of mine got a set of curtain rods like these to stretch floor to ceiling:

And then these pipe clamp mounts to attach the lighthouses.

He's pretty happy with them.

Before I bit the bullet and drilled holes, I used a pair of mini camera tripods to put them on shelves. The downside was they were super easy to bump out of alignment meaning I had to re-run roomscale setup all the time, but they were also super portable and it'll look no worse than small satellite speakers as far as inspection is concerned.

u/Prowler_101 · 1 pointr/Vive

I use Third Hand Poles and Pole Mounts

Takes < 10 mins to move from room to room. Now granted I do not have to move computer (My roommate's is setup in the other room)

u/cynoclast · 1 pointr/Vive

> Can I attach the Lighthouses to the wall with poster adhesive like the powerstrips from tesa and/ or ducttape, or do I HAVE to drill holes?

I did this temporarily. But /r/vive gave me hell for it. I used a LOT of tape, and focused it all on the top part, and built a crude crash pad beneath it so even if it did fall off it would have a cushioned landing. I recommend drilling holes if you're not renting.

It held just fine for a few days, then I used these:

The lighthouses come with wall warts with long power cords.

Definitely give The Lab (free) a shot. It's Valve's incognito ad for Portal 3, IMHO.

u/center311 · 1 pointr/Vive

You can probably find cheaper stands and clamps, but this is what I could find. Here are the clamps too:

u/Macinsocks · 1 pointr/virtualreality

Found a solution, These are recommended by HTC Vive Dev Setup guide

u/callezetter · 1 pointr/Vive

Can you fit a somwhere?

or a

Both are officially recommended by valve, and can be mounted in a million different ways

u/ad2003 · 1 pointr/Vive

maybe this here is a solution:

u/yellowspacealien · 1 pointr/oculus

Been playing with 2 sensor 360 tracking on the 2m x 1.5m and has been working good enough for me. Tracking is not perfect obviously as there is a "seam" that will cause a "shift" on the touch controller potentially due to what seems to be a software calibration type of issue. Not a game breaker for me as you just have to be aware of it and adjust accordingly so I am not in between it like when I play Arizona Sunshine and aiming the gun.

My setup uses the 2 support rods diagonally from each with the sensors attach to clamps and up about 6 feet high at about 45 degree angle downward linked to active USB3.0 extension cable. I think your mileage will vary how you setup but here's the list of the setup:

Also you should use Desk Scene to make sure the sensors truly cover your play space:

u/WarMachine425 · 1 pointr/Vive

I used this clamp that fits the basestations perfectly. Works very well.

u/Bigvalbowski · 1 pointr/Vive

Get a couple of these clamps. They tighten to the rod pretty easy and are the right screw in for the basestation as well.

Photo of mine here

u/numun_ · 1 pointr/Vive

In the Vive Pre setup pdf, they recommend using these support poles with clamp mounts.

Another option would be getting some double sided tape and using it to adhere a couple boards to the wall, then mounting the base stations on the boards. Again - might have an issue with ripping the paint off your walls when you try to move the base stations.

u/de_witte · 1 pointr/Vive

You could try flash clip mounts to attach lighthouses to a table or cupboard or something stable like it (it's what I use). Easy to mount, move, adjust, and no tripping over tripods.

Or if you have heating pipes, curtain rods, or contractor poles:

Edit: I forgot to say, you could also take the ballhead mounts included with the Vive and screw them to something heavy like a block of wood, a box, an old coffee tin filled with rocks,... to build makeshift stands which you can then place on a cupboard or your desk or move around quickly if you experience tracking problems or want to try VR in another room. A bit ghetto, but cheap solution.

u/Captain_K_Cat · 1 pointr/Vive

I have the "fastcap 3rd hand" pole which is the same thing. It works great and is probably the best option for non-permanent installs.
This is the pole clamp I have:

u/asapmatthew · 1 pointr/videography

Scrubbing through the video I noticed that the camera auto exposes the shot to compensate for the backlit shelves so the fix for that would be to shoot with auto-exposing off or just shoot in manual since you’re staying the same distance away from the camera. That would fix the irregular lighting but it wouldn’t fix the lighting. To fix the lighting you could get an LED light rack that you could attach to your camera’s hot shoe:
This would help you get more light on your face, acting as a fill light and would make a big difference in clearing out the shadows. Audio is more of a get what you pay for kinda thing. I really like the Rode SmartLav + which you can connect to your smartphone and with the Rode app you can record some pretty quality audio that is comparable to 300+ dollar lavs. Shotguns are good too but I typically use both to help match the audio on each recording devices. The smartlav is a great piece of equipment for only $75 and it doesn’t get much better than that and would completely take away the whirs and and sound annoyances. Here’s the link to the Lav:

u/ddt9 · 1 pointr/videography

You should be able to do everything in that video with the gear selected. Maybe get a Rode SmartLav too. (

u/GarudaRising · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

I'm deciding on a mic primarily for "corporate videos" (interviews with doctors) and potentially podcasts. I've narrowed it to the below and was wondering if fellow redditors had any input? I am leaning towards the PowerDeWise simply because of costs though I like that the shotgun mics would not be visible.


Rode SmartLav+


Rode VideoMic Me

u/Qualsa · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Send it back and get something branded that will work. Røde Smartlav+.

They don't publish any audio specs on the product page, which for me is a big black flag for audio gear.

Pro level lav mics I use:

u/TygerWithAWhy · 1 pointr/videography

That was extremely helpful! Heres what I've got so far.

I'm torn between the G7 with a 12-140mm lens and the G85 with a 12-60mm lens. They are the exact same price (if I get the G7 with 14-42mm it's half the price) But from what I've read and watched, the G85 only seems marginally better and people say it hums whenever its on. Would getting the older G7 that comes with a better lens be a better purchase? (Links

G85, then G7) In your opinion, does the newer attributes of the G85 outweigh the much larger range lense of the G7 option? This video ( ) makes the G85 stabilization seem very impressive. But I'm still on the fence, the 140mm capability of the G7 seems like it could remove the need for a long/tight shot lense.

As per the video you linked, I'm looking at getting the rode lavalier that the speaker mentions due to its convenience and price. I also subscribed and will be watching more.

And for room/atmosphere sound I was curious if you use a shotgun mic, or a traditional supercardoid boom mic more often if it is attached above the camera.

If there is any way I could repay you for all the help you've given let me know. You've saved me countless hours of research and hundreds (if not thousands) in mis-bought goods. When I got into recording and mixing I spent weeks researching mics and audio interfaces on forums, reviews, and asking people at my university for their opinion; but the information you have imparted has cut this time significantly in my pursuit of filming. Thank you very much.

u/Bradison_bro · 1 pointr/askgaybros

Not really.

I'd like to offer you some suggestions for your videos that could improve them a lot, if that's ok.

  1. Audio. If you can, I'd recommend getting a lavalier microphone (Something like this). That'll improve your audio quality quite a bit and pretty much eliminate most of that echo in your room. Another thing I highly, highly recommend for you is music. Get a bit of background music to use in your videos while you're talking, it'll help a lot. There's tons of royalty free sources online for music. is one, or even YouTube's own audio library.

  2. Camera Video. There's...quite a few things that could be done about your video quality. Intros are fine, but it looks like you used a template online. I always advise against these, as they are a dime a dozen and don't really add much to the video. If you upload fairly regularly I'd just get rid of it completely and just jump right into the topic of the video. I also noticed that your lighting could use some work. Most don't realize how much this adds to a video. I recommend getting a pair of these, softbox lights. They add a nice soft light that looks great. If you want to get a little pricier, these are very popular. Ring lights provide a nice soft lighting that's used by a lot of vloggers.
  3. Game video. I noticed that you just recorded the switch screen. To me, that's below bare minimum quality for games. You need a capture card of sorts that you can plug the Switch into, then record off of the capture card. If you just have that laptop, you could probably get away with using an external capture card, like an Elgate Game Capture. These are able to capture gameplay from any game system with an HDMI out, and the Switch dock has one of those.
u/remy_porter · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

You will never get good audio off a GoPro. You may want to look for a lav-mic option that can run off of an iPhone. Something like this, though I know people will use the hands-free mic that comes with the ear-buds and get okay results. By using a mic close in to yourself, it'll hopefully pick up less ambient noise.

The sad reality, though, is a waterfall is a pretty potent white-noise generator, and you might be better off doing the audio in post. Narrate your techniques over a good mic in a quiet room.

u/Curtis_The_Mentalist · 1 pointr/Magic

"Rode" is just a name brand of microphone. I use this one here for recording video on my iPhone, it's known as the SmartLav:

Plus the Filmic Pro camera app. I highly recommend both. The Rode mic records excellent sound quality. The only problem with it is that it has a short cord. The only real way around this is to invest in a wireless transmitter/receiver set up and those can be costly.

If you're wanting to get video to promote yourself professionally, I always recommend to people to find some college or even HS students (if you're in or near a town with a college) who do or are studying photography/videography and may need some footage/material for projects or who are willing to work for pizza/beer/etc. who want to have some fun and help you shoot video while amazing people on the street, at malls, etc. They usually have some good equipment of their own or can get it through their school to use. Just be careful where you go to shoot (in front of businesses, parking lots, etc) because sometimes you can stir up some trouble.

u/00raiser · 1 pointr/GH5

See some budget options below that will do a great job. Also, if it is not too late to return your Zoom, try to get your hands on the Tascam Dr-10L. The Lav locks in place so it won't accidentally fall out when in use by your talent, also it has a smaller footprint than the zoom.

Purple Panda Mic

Rode Lav

u/TravisO · 1 pointr/videography

FYI, while shotgun mics are directional, they will pick up what you are pointing at and what's behind it, so they still pick up (literal) background noise. I bought the $200 Rode VMProShotgun and never use it anymore, I only use their SmartLav+ mic ( )

Yes I realized this only lets you capture one person, which you have to mic up first, but it's the only way to get them to sound good, unless you buy an expensive boom mic and have somebody to hold it. IMHO shotgun mics are mostly a waste of money.

Rode VMPro worst case scenario; echos, buzzing light fixture

Rode VMPro so-so quality; outside with wind (basic sponge protector on, no dead cat) and indoors afterwords

Rode VMPro best case scenario; outside, no wind

Rode SmartLav+ lapel mic

u/smushkan · 1 pointr/videography

Use your phone.

u/lebrilla · 1 pointr/podcasting
u/sblowes · 1 pointr/Surface
u/JDishere · 1 pointr/Cameras

I would recommend the Rode Smartlav mic.
Its a Lavalier mic that uses your smartphone to record audio.
You'll have to sync it with your fotage in post but the quality is worth it.

u/JDUKMusic · 1 pointr/DigitalMarketing

My main bit of advice is invest in a good lapel microphone. Right now with work I use this -

You can really notice in an interview video when the voice is coming from a mic and not the camera mic.

u/robogranny42 · 1 pointr/videography

If you're on a low budget a Zoom H1 and a Rode Lav mic will work great, with that mic you'll need an adaptor as it is designed to work with phone ports

u/GuineaSaurousRex · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Yeah I've used those before, but never owned them because they're a little too expensive for the use I could make of them.

If you're looking to save some money, check out the Rode Smartlav. You could record directly to a smartphone and sync the audio up in post. Might be worth it to you to save $500 (though I'm sure the Sony you linked records at a much better quality).

u/vikingcode1 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Tascam DR-22WL, the audio recorder I use in conjunction with a Rode SmartLav+ (had the SmartLav before the recorder, don't need to upgrade the lav though). I use that when I'm on camera talking in my videos, and a Rode desktop mic (NT-USB?) when doing voice overs.

u/percydw2 · 1 pointr/microphones

Hello, I'm interested in recording the audio of amateur musical gigs, which usually consist of several singer/dancers with a backing track in an inside hall, or sometimes outside open venue. Budget is ~£50. I've been browsing various things on Amazon/Youtube for a while and decided it's best to just ask the experts directly, after realising that most of these mics seem to be designed for very close-up audio recording such as desktop voice recording. So, can anyone suggest to me what I might want to be buying? Thank you!

here are 3 options but i have absolutely no idea if they're appropriate for my needs:

after help from your reddit, i ended up deciding on these (havent purchased yet) and one just to try it out / see if it's viable

u/JasonPawsUpp · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

Yes but more specifically this but the a6000 doesn't have a mic jack. So would a audio adaptor work?

u/KleyPlays · 1 pointr/Guitar

> Or just external 3.5mm analog mic to connect it with my DSLR camera?

Maybe try a Rode clip on mic attachment.

u/1slander · 1 pointr/videography

Try and get a small set up for that price instead of just the camera. Get her a camera, a tripod, a microphone, and if you can a light as well.

The Nikon D5100 is a great DSLR that can do 1080p. It's got a 3.5mm microphone port so they'll be able to plug in an external mic for better audio. A tripod like this will be great as it's sturdy, can go up to 1.4m and has a spirit level on the head. These microphones are brilliant. This light pack even includes 2 lights and 2 tripods for them.

Hope this helps (and the UK links work).

u/kent_eh · 1 pointr/youtubers

Oh, you already have the camera. I was interpreting it as you found it for sale and wanted to know if you should buy it...


I assume that model of camera has a connection for adding a microphone (as far as I can tell, there are several models of the EOS rebel).

The Rode video mic is a popular choice, and isn't too expensive.

u/Geoffs_Review_Corner · 1 pointr/photography

> Videography is basically just photography squared when it comes to equipment costs.

Good to know. The more I'm learning the more the SL2 seems like the right choice, at least for a beginner like myself.

> Also happen to be friends with a few cinematographers / video geeks.

That's cool. I either forgot or was never aware of how popular photography and videography are as hobbies.

Any recommendations on a DSLR microphone? I'd like to keep it under $100, but I'd be willing to spend up to $150 if necessary. I was thinking of just getting something like this that sits on the top of the camera. That way my setup is super easy to just film and go, and I could also do some vlog style videos if I wanted.

u/ignaro · 1 pointr/EngineBuilding

No sweat man, keep it up!

For audio, I have a Zoom H4N recorder that I got used for $100. It does a surprisingly good job for how inexpensive it is. You can also plug nice mics into it if you can find a deal on a shotgun mic. A cheaper/easier option is Rode's DSLR mic that goes in the hot shoe port. Better sound is going to make your videos much better. Anywhere that you don't get great sound, cut to B-roll and do voiceover in a quiet room at home.

Good luck!

u/lord_william_j · 1 pointr/letsplay

If you check out my channels latest video I use the C920 and to me looks nice and crisp. I use my own lighting which helps an f ton for the c920 (2 desk lamps with L.E.D bulbs). Here's my settings for my C920 if you're interested.

For filming other things and what not, it's gonna be pretty expensive if you want quality recordings, just having a gander on something I'd use, might cost upwards of $600 AUD. But most cameras can easily work with OBS, either via a capture card or it's in built functionality.

Edit: If I was gonna buy a camera for on the go stuff I'd go for this and probably this for mic and I'd probably count that as mid tier equipment at most.

u/mahantesh_ng · 1 pointr/podcasts

I'm sorry for this, but could please check this one out too?
It says cardioid mic, Apprently that's good?

Again, the price is in rupees!

u/SenshiHiro · 1 pointr/videography

Looking for recommendations for a shotgun mic for VLogging. I’m rocking a 5D right now so I’m trying to not add much more weight. The Rhode Go with a cat seemed like a possible option. And it’s $30 cheaper on Amazon vs B&H.

u/glswenson · 1 pointr/Spokane

Ah, okay.

Sorry, the type of video production I am most familiar with is the kind for short film production, music videos, weddings, things of that nature. So I don't feel 100% comfortable trying to give advice on things of this nature. Just from a quick glance though it looks like the adapter to connect an external microphone to your GoPro is $49.00 just by itself.

That leaves about $51 on your maximum budget, which rules out my preferred style of handheld camera microphone, the shotgun mic. If you already have the adapter and therefore don't need to spend the $49 I'd heavily recommend Rode products, specifically for your needs the Videomic Go.

There is this inexpensive shotgun mic bundle that I found on Amazon, but I don't have the experience with this product like I do with Rode products to speak to it's quality. It does record in mono sound, but you can duplicate the audio track in your editing program to simulate stereo. For a quick and cheap setup you can get the adapter and this shotgun mic and that will still be better than audio straight out of the GoPro.

The reason I prefer shotgun mics to lavalier mics is that you have the ability to capture sounds other than yourself if you so desire to, but also lavalier mics have a habit of being obscured by clothing and being affected heavily by wind. I'd hate for you to record a vlog only to realize your sweatshirt had been over your microphone for the better part of the day and now you have no useable audio.

But if you are set on the idea of a lavalier mic then your best bet for the GoPro would be this kit I found on Amazon. You don't need an adapter because it's meant for the GoPro, and it comes with a windscreen which will reduce your wind interference. And at the price this honestly might be your best entry-level audio option for that camera set up to add some production value to a vlog.

u/monkeybull445 · 1 pointr/peachesdoe97

Great stuff as always. An external audio recorder might be a solid investment. Good audio bumps up the production quality of any video. An external mic (like this would also work wonders

u/Burakoli821 · 1 pointr/bmpcc

This is the mic I'm using

Rode VideoMic GO Light Weight On-Camera Microphone

u/Rettocam · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Hey everyone! Ill keep this short. Been looking into a shotgun microphone for dslr low quality videos. I need a new one because my old one broke.

I had a Audio Technica ATR6550. It did its job, sounded good. I would like something similar.

I was looking at the Rode microphones. Such as the VideoMicro or the Rode VideoMic Go

They are both under $100 which is nice. All I am asking is your opinion on these and if there maybe something better out there I am missing.

u/TheFunkwich · 1 pointr/Cameras

Rode VMGO Video Mic GO Lightweight On-Camera Microphone Super-Cardio

I don't know much about microphones but this is pretty much always the most recommended I see under 100

u/dufflecoat · 1 pointr/Cameras

Manual focus should be quieter, if not silent. An external mic makes the whole camera a bit big and chunky but helps reduce the amount of sound picked up on the camera itself:

u/Royalhghnss · 1 pointr/discgolf

>I really respect and appreciate all of the work you do for Central Coast D


> How fast and easy it is to put on and remove?

Very! I don't use the strap, so you just grab it, and it comes right off. We used it to shoot our round with McBeth, and it was super easy to pass back and forth.

For the breathing issue. When I didn't have a shotgun mic I would just try to breath away from the camera. A shotgun mic (I have the model up from the linked one), helps a ton. It really eliminates sound that's not in front of the camera.

u/WePwnTheSky · 1 pointr/Warhammer40k

An external microphone would surely help with the audio issues you're having. Something like this set on a small tripod out of frame might do the trick.

u/Madarius777 · 1 pointr/chemistry

like I said it was just the one video that was really bad wind noise and others were mostly fine great channel btw, and I did subscribe, the more chem channels the better, ill be watching some more in spurts. and I don't mean to assume you're Indian or even living if India if you are but due to your appearance and voice that was my assumption so here's a link to Indian amazon with a lav mic for what equates to 15 USD . its worth spending money on your channel, its an investment money in = higher quality out = better search results from youtube algorithm and also more views/ people wanting to stick around and subscribe and that's how you start making that youtube money edit: link edit2: if you do decide to invest more into your channel here's a better mic for ₹ 6,349.00 another chemtuber extractions&fire uses one

u/themercmonster · 1 pointr/youtubers

It seems a bunch of people have already dived into some of the sound issues you're having, so I won't go into it too much - I do agree that a shotgun mic would probably be your best bet, with Rode offering some semi-affordable yet very high quality options, such as:

I am definitely a Rode-head and love their products.

I do like the corner you're in, with the Dr. Seuss artwork a nice pop of color as well as just a nice bit of insight into your surroundings and personality. Also really nice to have an outro video, so good job there, as that's something I would highly recommend everyone add.

If you have some money available, I'd recommend buying a light stand just for a key light on your face - you don't have to buy three lights for the traditional three point setup, but just some more focus on your face would be great.

And my final piece of advice would be to try and shorten the video as much as possible, as the average YouTuber loves shorter videos. This could be done by just quickening your pace a bit, along with removing some auxiliary stuff such as reading the questions aloud. I know this can be tough, as it's excruciating for me to cut out stuff from all the material I've gathered!

u/gabyred884 · 1 pointr/youtubers

I just picked up a [Rode NT-USB] ( and I love the quality. It has a great tone and has a good depth to it. It is a little pricey at $169 on Amazon but if you're going to be doing videos for the long haul I definitely think its worth the money.

While I was doing my research i also noticed a lot of people mention that they had a Blue Yeti from Blue Microphones and they liked it as well. This is also a USB mic and the sound quality is really similar (and the mic is about 50-60 bucks cheaper) but I just really liked how the Rode Mic sounded.. That's just personal preference. You can find this mic at around $100 so its still a little pricey but again, if you're going to be doing videos its still worth it.

If you're looking for something to use with a DSLR camera, I like the way the [Rode VMGO Shotgun Mic] ( sounds. It has that full sound and this one comes in around a little under $80.

Finally if you're looking for something under $20 I would probably go with the [Boya By M1] ( mic. This is a lapel mic so its easily portable and for like $16 its a great starter mic.

I did my research for about 2 months because I was so indecisive on which type i wanted i get for my use case. Since I do Voice-overs I wanted to get something that's easily compatible with my laptop so thats why i chose the USB route. Keep in mind that audio quality is just as if not more important than the video quality.. If you're audio sucks, you won't keep long retention rates which means your videos won't rank as high which means less views and ultimately less subscribers.

Hope that helps!!

u/JohnnyBoy11 · 1 pointr/youtubers

I think you mean deadcat like wind shield. What I mean by shielded is against RF interference that electronics sends out. It might just be unshielded cables but I'm not sure

Some of the Amazon reviews talks about it (search interference)