Best camera & camcorder batteries & chargers according to redditors

We found 1,439 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & camcorder batteries & chargers. We ranked the 433 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Camera & camcorder batteries
Camera & camcorder battery chargers
Camera power adapters

Top Reddit comments about Camera & Camcorder Batteries & Chargers:

u/badon_ · 46 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

> This is for a simple analog wall clock, so I’ll go out and get AAs once it starts to get out of time.

Get rechargeable AA batteries next time. I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

u/Gundersniff · 45 pointsr/xboxone

Get Eneloops, they're the best.

u/Daehder · 17 pointsr/Nerf

Assuming you are referring to 9V batteries like these, that will actually be a downgrade from normal AA cells, as 9 V batteries are actually a 6 pack of AAAA batteries.

While the voltage sound like it would be higher, AAAA are even worse than AA cells at delivering current, which is what is responsible for spinning motors up to speed. Thus, the motors will spin up even slower, and the voltage will sag massively.


If you intend to run that extra foot of Faux barrel, you'll pretty much need to rewire for a lipo or NiMH pack to get any reasonable performance.

If you are just looking for a no-effort mod, Eneloops are the safest way to do so. Their much higher current capabilities mean that they'll outperform even D alkaline cells, which are what Hasbro use to power their more powerful blasters, and they're pretty inexpensive to boot

u/NunsOnFire · 14 pointsr/xboxone

If cats are a hazard to charging wires, I suggest luring them into a room in the house that no one will use for a short while (cat food and their favorite toys usually does the trick. they'll be a little skeptical at first but they'll nestle in to the strange room quickly), lock them in the door ensuring that the cats have no exits at all in there, even emergency exits, step 5: turn on the carbon monoxide displacer you installed earlier and routed to that room in specific (it is the silent killer after all or whatever), finally explain to everyone the tragedy of finding your cats dead on the floor, maybe even include a bloody knife into the equation suggesting gang-related cat on cat violence (you're lying at this point; it was you who killed them). With them gone you can now safely own a charging dock for your Xbox One controllers. You can even get two.

If that's too complicated them I would suggest looking into rechargeable batteries with their own separate charger for the wall outlet, no wires at all here.

This product is a favorite of the subreddit.

u/nanan00 · 13 pointsr/gaming
u/concord72 · 12 pointsr/xboxone

Get this Eneloop kit instead, so much better and more versatile.

u/Palidore · 11 pointsr/oculus

Eneloops are where its at. Definitely recommend the ones I linked instead of the higher-capacity ones which squeeze out a little more juice per charge, but has far less charge cycles (500 vs 2100). This version includes a charger, if you're in need of one.

Also note that each Touch controller only uses a single AA battery.

u/Gilzabizlo · 9 pointsr/xboxone

Buy this.
Eneloops - Amazon

Thank me later.

u/vgf89 · 9 pointsr/oculus

You can get the exact same charger with a 4 included eneloops for cheaper than the charger alone:

u/elkemist · 9 pointsr/xboxone

I used the energizer one for a while and it was ok, then I bought some Panasonic Eneloops and I'm never going back. They can be used for other devices as well and they last forever.

edit: Panasonic Eneloops These are the ones I have.

u/Virisenox_ · 8 pointsr/flashlight

Budget option: ThruNite T10: $20, 210 lumens (neutral white)

High durability options: Any of these (Not to say the other ones can't take a beating)

High end option: ZebraLight SC5c: $70, 4000K, 475 lumens, >90 CRI

Buy some Eneloops. They perform better, they won't leak and corrode your lights, and they'll save you money in the long run.

u/Corm · 8 pointsr/WindowsMR

I recommend this one at $18 because the it's an individual charger, and in my experience the batteries last for years.

This one is more popular and good too, but I replaced it with the other one because my batteries weren't lasting as long as they should (1 year instead of several), and I suspected it was overcharging them a bit. But it's $20 so who cares.

u/CODMuffinMan · 7 pointsr/consoledeals

I'd recommend these instead, I've had them for around 8 months now and they're really good. A lot better than going through a 48 pack of duracells every month or two

u/parametrek · 7 pointsr/flashlight

Why not use rechargeable NiMH AA cells?

18650 and 16650 will not fit in an AA light.

u/Moonlord_ · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Any charger intended for NiMh batteries will work but it's worth the investment to get a decent smart charger. You'll get longer life and fuller charges out of your batteries. They can also give you info for matching battery pairs effectively, bringing weak batteries back to life, and determine when a battery is getting weaker.
Also stay away from "rapid chargers" that charge in an hour or less...they are horrible for your batteries and will kill them off quickly.

I recommend something like the Maha Powerex Wizard One charger which you can find on Amazon, etc. At the minimum the new Panasonic chargers that come with the newest Eneloop models are pretty decent for a pack-in smart charger. They have 4 individual charging circuits, peak detection when the battery is full, and charge at a gentle rate.

u/shmmrname · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Here's my little bits of advice:

Games with Gold: If you have an XBL gold membership, please 'buy' ( the free games on both systems, even if you don't currently have one of them. If you don't have an XB1 yet, you're essentially just building a bigger potential library if you get the console in the future. If you're on XB1, you're creating a larger backwards compatible library.

Accessories: Add storage via nearly any USB 3.0 external hd (there's millions of suggestions for specific models via a search of this subreddit). I suggest Eneloops over the play-n-charge kit. XBL gold membership is roughly $35/year frequently, never pay full price and keep in mind it's "stack-able". Install SmartGlass on your mobile devices. Install the Xbox app on your Windows 10 devices.

Games/Values: If you're interested in any EA game, give EA Access a look ($30/year). Bing Rewards is a nice way to pad your digital wallet. Value-based subreddits I'd suggest: /r/GameDeals, /r/GreatXboxDeals and /r/ConsoleDeals. Weekly sales threads tend to pop up on /r/XboxOne before they're published, and if you want to see all current discounts check out storeparser.

Game Recommendations:
SMITE is a free-to-play moba that's become a go-to game for me a few times each week. It's easy to learn, but there's depth to keep you learning new strategies/skills even months after you've started. I really can't believe how much I like this game. I think everyone should at least try it.
Rise of the Tomb Raider is gorgeous, and it improves upon nearly everything the original reboot (already a good game) attempted. I love the game.
Sunset Overdrive is fun from start-to-finish, and it's one of the most unique games I've played. The art style is infectious, and I loved the game more each time I played it. However, I didn't particularly appreciate much of the multiplayer.
LEGO Marvel Super Heroes is a step above the other LEGO games, and it's an absolute hit for co-op sessions. Similarly, Diablo 3 excels at co-op, even if it's something that doesn't seem like a typical title for your group.
There's many others I'd recommend, but I'm sticking to the top-most I'd recommend to any new Xbox One owners. There's a ton of opinions you can find on this subreddit if you're interested in any game. Also, if you're not sure about something: look for Twitch streams or YouTube videos before you take the plunge.

Always check out Friend Request Friday to find people you can play with. I love podcasts, here are my recommended podcasts. I use Feedrabbit to get e-mailed updates from Major Nelson.

Finally, I recommend helping out when you can by visiting the Mentor Monday threads. It's a very easy way to help, and (in my opinion) it's one of the best threads each week in this subreddit.

u/smelltheglove-11 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Got mine a few weeks ago and I love them. Only 16.99 on Amazon, comes with 4 batteries and the charger.

u/JonG311 · 7 pointsr/bmpcc

Just get an NPF adapter and a couple NPF batteries. It would probably cost you around $60 and accomplish the same thing with a much smaller footprint.

One of those batteries will keep you going for several hours.

u/telos0 · 6 pointsr/WindowsMR

Windows Mixed Reality will automatically track and recognize different rooms that you've set up, as long as things haven't changed too much since the last time it saw it.

My Odyssey is on an Alienware 17R4 that I move between multiple locations, and I almost never have to setup the rooms again. I just wave the headset around a bit when I start the WMR portal and let it scan across the room and floor and it almost always automatically recognizes the room and restores my boundaries.

Even if it says it couldn't match the room and prompts for setup, it's actually still looking and matching, so don't give up immediately, wave it around a bit more, and it might still pick up the old scan.

If you need a long cable run between rooms, I suggest buying a Vive Link Box and power supply, and use it in the middle of the cable run to boost the signal and power. And also use active extensions cables.

  1. Vive Link Box
  2. Vive Link Box Power Supply

    Make sure you power cycle the Vive Link Box whenever you plug or unplug anything into it to for it to reinitialize and detect the headset.
u/Hotsushi · 6 pointsr/onebag

I only carry a few things when I travel and a laptop is NOT one of it as I'm in vacation and I don't want to work on my vacation haha. However, of the few things I need, I'd buy the Anker dual port 12w charger, chafon multi cable, and the nitecore F1. All this along with my iPhone x.

The Anker charger is as compact as those included apple iPhone chargers but dual port and a lot stronger.

The chafon multi charging cable is short and convenient. It has all the typical cables you'd need in one package.

The Nightcore F1 is basically a battery bank the size of an 18650. You can also replace the battery or use the battery to charge it. It's not a very fast charger but it's small and gets the job done. I'd only use this for emergencies.

This is really all the electronics I need and they're all compact enough to fit in the palm of your hand (no bagging?! JK...) The iPhone x handles the computer, camera, and entertainment portion perfectly fine for me.

The only thing I'm still on the look out for is a pair of high quality but affordable Bluetooth speaker ear buds for podcasts.

u/Paladin- · 6 pointsr/ghostbusters

The Spongeface kits are awesome, and require very little modification on the pack itself, have fun with it and take your time!
As for the battery you want something along the lines of this:
And some Barrel plugs to wire it with like these:

Also definitely check out! The forums are a really handy place to find info and parts of all kinds for Ghostbusters props of all types.

u/skaven81 · 6 pointsr/telescopes

Aside from the lead-acid battery (which I think is fine, just heavy), there is a pretty long list of crappiness:

  • Made in China with the absolute cheapest components you can imagine. The circuit boards inside are thin, single-sided, and appear to have been assembled by chimpanzees.
  • The multi-voltage outputs aren't regulated. It's literally a resistor network providing the different voltages. Good luck actually getting the stated 1A out of each of them. And as the 12V battery voltage gets lower, the 3V, 6V, and 9V outputs drop as well.
  • The charging "circuitry" is completely stupid. The green light that is supposed to tell you that it's charged -- yeah, that's just an R-C circuit with a crazy-high impedance resistor that makes the LED slowly get brighter over about 8-10 hours. It actually has nothing at all to do with the voltage of the battery.
  • The charger outputs 15V, and the charging port is wired directly to the battery, which is why you have to switch the unit to "charge" mode to charge the battery. There is no battery management or charger cut-off, so if you forget to unplug the charger, it will eventually destroy the battery.
  • You can't charge the battery while in use.
  • You can't charge the battery from a standard 12V car plug

    For the money, you're WAY better off buying something like this: -- that will run your mount for the entire night without breaking a sweat (assuming you don't have to run dew heaters or anything), costs 75% less, and is small and light enough that you could actually velcro it right to the mount.
u/mbosecke · 6 pointsr/gopro

The biggest thing I recommend is having extra batteries for the camera. I bought a pack of 2 wasabi batteries that proved to be invaluable.

u/TranceDoctor · 6 pointsr/xboxone

You're honestly better off buying the new one because then you know you'll always own the games and you get a brand new warranty. You also get 500gb more space.

I bought this to use as my batteries and it's great.

u/StyrofomE_CuP · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

A 12V Power Supply

Simple PC Fan, 12V

PWM Controller

The wall wart will supply 12V with a max of 1A of current. 12V computer fans of that size use at most 0.5A. The PWM controller will control the fan speed. It works by sending out DC pulses, also known as a square wave, of different lengths based on where the knob is set.

To hook up:
There are 4 terminals on the PWM Controller. Look on the bottom to see the polarity. Should be +,- Power and +,- Motor. They're screw terminals so she won't need to solder anything.

Simply hook up the red fan wire to the Motor + terminal, and the black fan wire to the Motor - terminal.

Next, WHILE THE WALL WART IS UNPLUGGED, splice the cable so you have some copper showing at an end. If it has red and black, simply repeat what you did with the fan but use the Power terminals. If the wires are the same color, you can use a multimeter to figure out the polarity.


u/notaneggspert · 5 pointsr/canon

I've used power extra and Opteka and Wasabi power

Initially they'll all perform the same as the OEM battery but wont last more than a year or two depending on how often you use them.

I'd go with wasabi they have reasonable brand recognition. Pretty popular 3rd party gopro battery supplier. Probably lasts longer than the other lesser known brands but I managed to loose my wasabi battery so I can't vouch for it's longevity.

Still better than buying a bunch of Canon batteries if you're going to be going through a bunch of them in a day.

But if you just need an extra battery you might want to just invest in the Canon branded one since it will last for years.

Since I usually just use my t3i for Macro stuff in a more studio-ish environment. This is a life saver. highly recommend you get one if you use your camera indoors and on a tripod often.

u/RodShopDodgeColt · 5 pointsr/gopro

Yes, lots of cards and lots of batteries! The batteries don't last all that long so you can pick up a charger and 2 pack of batteries cheap.

Be sure you get the right memory card for the Hero 2, depending what you are shooting you may not need a class 10. Here is a helpful link.

u/skeeterou · 5 pointsr/gopro

I'd go with the Wasabi ones. I have 3, and they function exactly like the OEM GoPro Battery. Never tried the ones you've linked.

u/Psycrotes · 5 pointsr/gopro

Amazon Link

This one has great reviews, I have been planning on getting it. Comes with 2 batteries and a charger.

u/KDistheman · 5 pointsr/gopro

I have the wasabi batteries, they are fantastic! Also, the charger they come with is really convenient because it will also charge in the car. As far as mounts go, I would recommend the head strap mount or something for your head, your preference of a gopole mount, and maybe a tripod mount and the handlebar mount comes in handy for oars/paddles or a homemade gopole. Also checkout r/goprodiy for some great ideas on the cheap. You can also make a diy chesty with the base the gopro comes attached to.

u/kevinkace · 5 pointsr/skateboarding

I picked up everything off Amazon (other than the camera which I bought 2nd hand off Craigslist):

u/meeksdigital · 5 pointsr/gopro

The Wasabi Power batteries are 1200mah and $24 for two with a wall/12v charger. Just something to think about.

u/mull3t · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Could try updating the controller, if it was recently purchased you've got 30 days I'd return it and say it was defective. In the department of batteries [Save yourself the trouble and buy these. Bar none the best rechargables ever made.] (

u/Matty1138 · 5 pointsr/xbox360

There's a similar product with Panasonic Eneloop branding now. The price is cheaper and the charger is much better, according to the battery-reviewing guy on Amazon.

u/Im2Nelson4u · 5 pointsr/Gameboy

Eneloop is my favorite.

The standard version is cheap and performs very well (2000mah) and widely available at most stores

The XX or pro version is expensive and only last 500 charges but hold 25% more power (2500mah) which will mean an additional couple of hours

I prefer the pro version if you can get it cheap since 500 charge cycles will last you atleast 2 years of use on a portable like the gameboy. Found them on sale at my local camera store for $20 during the holidays

while I use the regular version on devices that gets charged daily like my gaming mouse

u/GenericUsername256 · 5 pointsr/PanasonicG7

I got this dummy battery:

It works pretty well. I'm able to even use the built in flash while powering the camera with it, so it'll be more than capable of powering it for use as a webcam.

One thing that I have heard of happening with it is static in the recorded audio if using an external mic going into the camera.

The wall adapter outputs 8.8v, which is within the safe power range for the camera. The camera says it takes 8.4v, though I found that if you drop down to 8.4v, you sometimes get error messages saying something along the lines of "this battery is not supported", and the camera shuts down. Something to do with external power sources requiring a higher voltage than batteries.

I personally don't even use the AC adapter with mine, I use one of those USB to 9v adapters (I made mine, but there are plenty on Amazon) and a USB battery bank to deliver power to the dummy battery. (If you do this, make sure the battery bank is capable of 5v2a output) [Note: The flash does not work when powering it off a USB battery bank as it draws too much power. Though with your use, you should be fine.]

The longest I tested this was about 1.5 hours of 1080p30fps recording (I was observing whether or not there are any skipped frames between each file that the recording gets split into, and I didn't see any). It worked fine, and the camera still works fine. It was also able to handle 4K30fps recording just fine as well.

If you decide to go the safer route and just get more batteries, I've heard these are great:

u/HybridCamRev · 5 pointsr/bmpcc

u/cityescape3 - the least expensive way to get 3 hours of continuous shooting is with a $19.99 SmallRig battery plate, a $24.50 12V to Weipu cable and a $37.99 set of two NP-F970 batteries & a dual charger.

You can attach the plate either to a pistol grip (as seen here) with a 1/4"-20 male to male screw or use the included bracket to attach it to the top of the camera - as seen in this video with the OG BMPCC .

This should be relatively easy to do with your cage.

Hope this is helpful and good luck finding the right external power solution for your needs!

u/TheHomelessNomad · 5 pointsr/SonyAlpha

I shoot for a tour & travel company and travel a lot (3 weeks traveling 1 week home, for the past 8 months). I originally had 5 batteries and that would get me through. I recently added two more because I bought an a6300 for my mother or gf to use when we went on a vacation together. I occasionally would use it as well as a second body to do video with. All of my batteries are Sony because I have never found an off brand camera battery that didn't become a paper weight after a few months of rigorous use. When I used to shoot Nikon I got burned a few times from this. I have been told they are better, but I refuse to go down that road again. You can if you like, but I urge you to read reviews carefully. If a reviewer says it works fine after a few charges, that is not long enough to have an informed opinion.

For charging I use this two battery charger. It feels cheap but it gets the job done. It comes with two off brand batteries. I did not even bother I just recycled them. I have 2 of the chargers and I usually rubber band them together and toss it in my suitcase. Those live in my hotel room usually. For when I am out and about I will keep one of these smaller one battery chargers in my camera bag so in an emergency I could be charging a battery. I usually only use it if the weather is very cold and I know my batteries will die faster. The good thing about it being USB is that I can plug an external battery bank into it and charge one of my already depleted batteries while I am shooting with another battery. For external battery banks I use this anker 13400mah one. The construction is solid, it charges things almost as fast as a wall outlet, the capacity is pretty accurate and it has two ports so I can charge a camera battery and something else if I need to. Overall it is a great battery bank, probably not the absolute best, but still great.

If you are going to be away from outlets for 3 days you might want to get a beefier battery pack. Depending on your shooting style of course. Anker makes a lot of sizes even up to having this properly named powerhouse.

u/IntrospectiveFilms · 5 pointsr/bmpcc

I went this route originally, very cumbersome form factor. These are not really designed for cameras, although it will of course work. Instead, I replaced it with this solution:

Runshuangyu Movie Blackmagic Cinema Camera BMCC 4K BMPCC Power Supply Mount Plate Adapter for Sony NP-F970 Battery

Powerextra Multifunctional Battery Pack Power Bank with USB Output for Sony NP-F970, NP-F975, NP-F960, NP-F950, NP-F930 Battery and Smart Phones

Much more manageable and the bricks can power two more items plus the camera simultaneously. I've got 4 bricks and each will last between 1.5-2 hours on a charge.

Also, the brick you ordered takes FOREVER to charge up.

As some friendly advice, I'd cancel your order and instead go with the solution above. I'm confident you'll be more satisfied.

u/mcfarlie6996 · 5 pointsr/flashlight

>Basically I'm looking for one that runs on AA batteries, is relatively easy to pocket or doesn't take up too much space on my duty belt; something decently bright to cut through foliage and search for objects/people.

>I've been looking at the Nitecore EA41/21 and MT2A.

"Cut through foliage". So you're looking for something with good throw/tight hotspot? Just remember, the larger the reflector, the more throw. The EA21/MT2A isn't going to have the throw that the EA41 has due to the smaller reflector on them. There's really no good throwers in those smaller sizes but for the EA41 size, I'd suggest getting the Thrunite TN41 XP-L HI instead which puts the EA41 to shame. This guy is 5mm shorter but 5mm wider but the thing that excels in this guy is the XP-L HI emitter which is designed for even more improved throw over other emitters on the market.

As many suggest, rechargeable are the way to go which I'll show you. I've actually borrowed the EA41 from my buddy to test which here is the runtime on High output. As you can see the NiMH rechargeable Eneloop batteries put both Energizer and Rayovac to shame. Yes Eneloop may be more expensive up front but they can be recharged up to 2000 times. So even though we know in the graph that 4 Eneloop batteries out-perform 4 Alkaline batteries, lets just pretend that they were equal. So you can get a 4 pack with a charger for $18 which would replace at least 8000 Alkaline batteries (4 rechargeable AA x 2000 recharge cycles). Can you get that many Alkalines for that price? Buy a backup 4 pack and you just replace another 8000 batteries along with having a backup of your own set so you'll always have a fresh set of batteries waiting on the charger.

One note, if you ever do think you'll get into Lithium-Ion batteries, I'd suggest getting a different charger like the Nitecore D4. I have this guy which can charge both Li-ion & NiMH batteries of many many sizes.

As for Lithium-Ion flashlight suggestions (just to throw them out there), the Armytek Predator XP-L HI is nearly best in class which it should have the same throw as the Thrunite mentioned above. It has a 5mm smaller head, obviously the body is thinner, but it's 40mm longer due to the tail-switch. Also check out the Nitecore MH27 which is nearly similar but has a little better user interface. An added note for the Predator that uses an 18650 Li-ion battery, a single high capacity 18650 battery out-performs over 6 AA Alkaline batteries, even though it's not much bigger than one. This means you can get more power and runtime in smaller applications. Plus these can be recharged as well for 500 cycles so they replace over 2500 AA batteries.

u/adum_korvic · 5 pointsr/Games

Nah that doesn't work. You should just buy a bundle that includes an eneloop battery charging bay.

Here's the 4 pack with a charging bay that I bought, it's 18 bucks.

u/Ericbazinga · 5 pointsr/OculusQuest

Go with this. $20, gets you 4 AA batteries plus a charger. The controllers only need one each so you can use one pair while charging the other, then swap.

u/Zak · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Something you should know is that the T10, like all higher-output flashlights powered by AA batteries, is designed for use with NiMH rechargeables.

Alkalines will work in a pinch, but full output on high won't be sustainable for very long, and battery life on high will be short. Alkalines also have a tendency to leak and ruin devices. The T10 leaves plenty of room in your budget for a pack of Eneloops with charger.

u/DrunkenFist · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I use these instead. a bit cheaper than the p&c kit, batteries have good life, and you can actually use them for other things if you need to.

u/GT_GZA · 4 pointsr/xboxone

None. Don't waste your money on the proprietary battery packs and chargers. Get some good rechargeable AA batteries, preferably Eneloop, and a decent charger (multiple options there). Rechargeable AAs are cheaper, last longer, and are more versatile because can use rechargeable AA (and AAA) in many, many common devices. Search Eneloop on Amazon, and you'll find many different options with various numbers/sizes of batteries and many include a charger. The bundled Eneloop-branded charger will be adequate for most people's needs.
Just an example--4 AA Eneloops and charger for $16:

These are way better than the proprietary junk.

u/shadama · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Just remember most eneloops can be recharged 2100 times the pros are only good for 500 or so charges.

Edit: here would be my reccomendation instead and its only 20.00 bucks

u/SirEDCaLot · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Get Eneloop batteries. That's 4 batteries and the charger for $18.

Amusingly, Eneloop batteries seem to last longer in the XB1 controller than normal AAs...

u/MeestaJohnny · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I wasn't a huge fan of it and instead went with some eneloops. They were cheaper and they last quite a bit longer than the rechargeable pack (I dont know by how much). But I've had these for years and they've done me right. Cant go wrong.

Here's the link:

u/DerDaku · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Well, since the Apple Batteries are basically just rebranded Eneloops, yes, its overpriced.
Get yourself this and this. You'll pay a little bit less, have two more batteries and a nice charger for charging up to 4 batteries at a time.

u/drfoqui · 4 pointsr/wii

I'm not sure if your hate for AA batteries includes the rechargeable kind but I think the most practical solution is eneloops (or any good rechargeable AA batteries). I use these and they are great. It is cheaper than any Wii battery pack and you can use them for other devices.

u/centigrade100 · 4 pointsr/Roadcam

"Add a fuses" (plugged into power window circuit, which only turns off after door is opened), fished wire over to passenger side where I crimped on a 2 USB port 5V DC/DC adapter (VHB taped behind glovebox, grounded locally to a ground point -- check with a multimeter!), and ran a lengthy USB cable under the plastic trim to the cameras. You should be able to force the wire behind rubber seals along the door frame and up the A pillar. You should also be able to hide the cable in the seam between the rear seats and the flooring/felt.

Tip: If the wire falls out from the crack between the window and plastic trim, wrap a few loops of tape around the wire. Its increased thickness keeps it hidden and not dangling in front of your passenger.

I know this wasn't clear. I can draw a picture if you wish. I also did the same with my GPS, so the singular 12V socket doesn't have a squid of USB cables going all over the car. Note that the suction cups don't stay on well on hot or cold days. I used VHB tape to attach a camera behind my rear view mirror (onto the screen printed sun shade dots no less).

DC-DC converter

Add-A-Fuses (Though look for ones for your specific fuse variety)

VHB tape (used to attach the DC/DC converter; fixes the suctioncups not adhering well)

If you're feeling adventurous, I wanted to try to make a UPS for it using one of these. (For public parking lots / when car isn't on)

u/abcteryx · 4 pointsr/Vive

Searching around leads me to believe that the lighthouses won't draw much more than [email protected], but likely draw closer to [email protected] most of the time. This decently reviewed, [email protected] battery on Amazon will get you probably about twelve hours of battery life.

u/rhymeswithdeath · 4 pointsr/WTT_graduates

I definitely think that sounds reasonable.

I have an s2, I mostly pump at the office too. I’ve seen a hack where you can use Velcro strips and this lithium battery to make the s2 portable - but I haven’t tried that myself. I did buy a car adapter which Ive used once when my mom watched the baby while we went on a date.

u/amishbill · 4 pointsr/18650masterrace

The cells are going to be re-wraps of something random. See the Q/A section of

The original rating is 12000mah, which makes the original cell capacity 2000mah each. It's also listed as 3A mac discharge current. I see no way to tell if that limit is in the controller or the cells themselves.

Also, the cells appear to be in a weird 2p3s layout, but I can't tell by the pictures.

Note - these are likely connected by spot welded metal straps. Getting them separated can be a challenge, and getting new cells in place will require more spot welding or soldering, as I don't see any spring loaded contacts to allow easy replacement.

IMHO, use the power bank as-is. When it stops doing what you want it to do, toss it in a Home Depot or Lowes batery recycling box.

u/KingAires · 4 pointsr/uberdrivers

Personally didn't want wires everywhere, so I bought a cheap 12,000mAH 12v/5v USB power brick and velcro'd it to my sunvisor. It powers my dash cam for a whole week before needing charging.

u/mrisrael · 4 pointsr/StonerEngineering

seriously, the first thing you need to do is go buy one of these, and get that bulky PC power supply out of there.

u/cameu · 4 pointsr/photography

Start slow:

The zoom kit (assuming we're speaking of one of the versions of EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6) will be great for:

a) Well lighted scenes (i.e., daylight)

b) Capturing wide images as well as mildly zoomed in images. Don't expect the extreme digital zooming of point and shoot cameras. The upside of your kit zoom being that it will not lose optical quality like those digital zooms.

c) Figuring out what it is you like to capture more. For example I like the isolation of subjects so I tend to use higher focal length lenses more often (think the 55mm end of your zoom instead of the 18mm).

What will you soon realize:

a) You want to take better images in low light. In this case you need to consider lenses with apertures (aka. f-numbers) of 2.8 or larger. Larger meaning a lesser number than 2.8. This number, the smaller it is, the wider it opens and lets in more light.

b) You have a predilection for one end or perhaps the middle of the focal length spectrum. You will then perhaps look for primes that have the wide aperture (2.8 or higher) OR a zoom that perhaps stays at 2.8 (these can get expensive so watch out!).

Many people get the Canon EF 50mm 1.8II because it works well for portraits and low light. Not ideal for inside the house in your camera because it has what we call a crop sensor. This means that your actual focal length will be the number on the lens, say 50, time a crop factor of 1.6. Read more into this on your own. Lots about it on Google and Youtube

OK, accessories:

I personally recommend aftermarket batteries. I bought these which even inculde a charger. Don't expect the same battery life as your original battery but it will get you out of binds. These are much cheaper, though. If money is not an issue then do as you wish

Post processing software might be something you need. Lightroom is a good way to start,I believe, but I personally use Photoshop. I'll let other experienced members chime in.

Asides from that you'll feel certain needs as time goes on. Your lens will get dirty and you'll need a lens cleaner (look online for best reviews, etc.) Many people like the lens pen, btw.

Anyway you get the point. But the most important thing is to go out and enjoy your camera. This is a beautiful hobby that brings peace, appreciation, and excitement to a lot of people. It can also bring frustration but keep a positive and curious attitude and you'll see your photography improve a lot.

One last thing! Learn these concepts... Aperture, Shutter Speed, and ISO. Learn what they are and how they interact to provide an exposure/image. This is crucial, imo.

u/YouAreWhatYouEet · 4 pointsr/bicycling

By terrible I mean utter shit. I've only used it in the cold because I got it for Christmas and haven't been able to ride for a few months due to a concussion, but it lasted maybe 2 hours when I took it skiing? Idk, I was too busy having fun, but it seems I'm not the only one with that opinion. Refer to a forum such as this and you'll see that the max recording time is only 3h 18m at 1080p 30fps with the battery back pack and an absolutely miserable 1h 56m without the external battery. The backpack is about $50, or for the same price you can get 2 extra batteries to bring along.

u/SoCaLLbeer · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Play and charge kits are typically poor quality. Was on Xbox 360 as well. Get a good set of rechargable AAs with a good charger.. they last longer between charge and you always have a charged pair ready to go. I use these they are awesome, charger is per cell so no matching needed. .. Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/LanaCallKennyLoggins · 4 pointsr/photography

I'm putting together a photography kit for my wife, after asking questions here before and doing a lot of research I've come up with the following items I'm going to buy this week for her, looking for any thoughts or suggestions on my choices:

> Sony A6000 Kit
> $598
> Sony A6000
E PZ 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 OSS Lens
> E 55-210mm f/4.5-6.3 OSS Lens
SanDisk 32GB Extreme UHS-I SDHC Memory Card
> Pawa NP-FW50 Lithium-Ion Battery Pack (7.4V, 1030mAh)
Ruggard Onyx 25 Camera/Camcorder Shoulder Bag
> Adobe Rebate: Get 3 Months Of Adobe Creative Cloud Photography Plan + Storage
> -
> RAVPower Camera Battery Charger Set
External battery charger
> 1100mAh/8.14w Spare Battery x2
> -
> Sony Screen Protector for A6000
> -
> SanDisk Extreme Pro 64GB SDXC Memory Card
> -
> KAZA Royal Blue #1 A6000 Leather Case Combo Set

Total: $791.75

u/djgizmo · 4 pointsr/mikrotik

But why?

You could this so much better with a standard usb battery.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack for LED Strip, CCTV Camera and More, DC 12V/5V USB Dual Output External Battery Power Bank with Charger, Black

$25 for something simple.

Or if you need a LOT of power,

TalentCell Rechargeable 72W 132WH 12V/11000mAh 9V/14500mAh 5V/26400mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack For LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Power Bank, Black


u/Nycholus · 4 pointsr/bmpcc

Got this for power and love it > Juicebox Battery for Blackmagic Cameras (Pocket 4K, Micro, Pocket, Cinema, Production & Video Assist)

Decent but cheap met lens > PANASONIC LUMIX Professional 25mm...

u/cavortingwebeasties · 3 pointsr/oculus

I only have 1 hdmi as well and needed to extend my Rift so use a Vive Link Box w/this psu, which works great. It's an active repeater made for VR and is not finicky about cables, use whatever ones you want. It has a mini displayport input (and hdmi, either work) so I use a dp > mini dp cable along with a usb. It's nice to have a clean/functional breakout box to plug into in my living room where I use it even though my computer is in my bedroom.

u/Dysthymike · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I have an Odyssey+ and these are what I have been using for about 6 months and I have had no problems:
Vive Link
10ft HDMI
10ft USB 3.0
12ft Power Supply Adapter
Power Supply

u/BGmez · 3 pointsr/SonyAlpha

I have a wasabi that came with my bundle as a spare. No difference from Sony.

I also bought a 2 port hub from RavPower on amazon to charge my batteries and it came with 2 more batteries. RavPower makes some pretty good power banks for my other devices and I figured for $30 I'd give them a shot with my camera. Those batteries work just as good as the original as well.

u/japrocketdet · 3 pointsr/bmpcc

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack for LED Strip, CCTV Camera and More, DC 12V/5V USB Dual Output External Battery Power Bank with Charger, Black

This is the battery. I bought a couple of these 3000 maH ones. Thanks also have a v-mount battery but this one is great for more run n fun style shooting.

The cable I made myself out of a 12v connector and the AC power supply included with the camera but you can buy new ones on Amazon for reasonable prices

u/Ubel · 3 pointsr/18650masterrace

There's sadly not many but it does seem like more models are appearing.

Here's one with adjustable voltage output from 3.7 to 12v

Here's another one is adjustable from 8-24v I think.

You can also buy something much larger like this and build your own and use anywhere from 3 to 90 18650s in it lol.

There's also these which sadly have non removable 18650s inside but someone could mod it to make them removable once they actually die ... or IMO just use it till the cells don't hold a charge and then replace them in a similar fashion by soldering (which we know isn't as fun as being able to change out 18650s but it's safer to have them married all the time.)

u/2old2care · 3 pointsr/LocationSound

17v and 800 mA is an unusual value. Since most 12-volt supplies are usually more like 14 volts, one of these 12-volt rechargeable battery packs will probably work fine. You will need to work out a comptible cable to connect the ampifier, though.

u/nutstobutts · 3 pointsr/homeassistant
u/SlipperyJim211 · 3 pointsr/iPhoneXR

Two thoughts:

  1. Nothing about this particular charging solution is specific to the iPhone XR. You can use it with an iPhone XR, but you can also use it with any other iPhone which supports wireless charging.
  2. I'm not especially interested in paying $119.99 for the convenience of charging my iPhone XR and my Apple Watch at the same time. That's a lot of money to pay for convenience.

    With that said, Belkin is a respected manufacturer, and the product looks fine to me. Buy it if you want it ... but no, I wouldn't consider it to be a good deal.

    For anyone who's curious, here's my solution:

u/KarbonRodd · 3 pointsr/bmpcc

I wouldn't expect a USB-C charge to work fast enough to make it that usable but there are dummy to USB charger adapters on amazon for the GH5 to power it from a USB power bank. It gives me about a 5.5 hour life from a 10,000 mah power bank, up from the 1.8 to 2 hours from a standard battery. I can't find an exact kit for a LP6N, but I think you could use that GH5 kit and a dummy battery for the Canon and link them up? Check all your voltage before you go trying it though!

There are Sony NP battery to Weipu taps that you can use also and those are a simple solution as far as size and weight to battery life. The one below is ok, works fine but it's screw connector is totally stupid, I drilled out the threads to use it properly.

Weipu to NP plate

USB bank for GH5

u/saleh3z · 3 pointsr/bmpcc

I use this combination as a battery solution:

When I'm using it with the Ronin S, I rig it on the side using 1/4" accessory I picked up from amazon.

u/phineas1134 · 3 pointsr/batteries

I just did some testing on the duracell Optimums. They are not worth the money. Your best bet is to go rechargeable and get some Eneloops. If for some crazy reason you need to see what battery will last absolutely the longest on a single use, primary lithiums like Energizer Ultimate Lithium will easily outlast any alkaline batteries.

Edit: Added some links for you.

u/empossible · 3 pointsr/DIY

This (which you can regularly get for $9) + This (Amazon's out of stock at the moment). Then you've got the added bonus of extra rechargeable batteries. Should the motor in the brush ever go bad, big deal, $9-15 (mine's been strong for over 2 years now).

u/Icebreaker808 · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I actually use Disposable Alakalines currently , since they are so cheap at Costco. But I have been researching cause I know I am killing the planet with the amount of batteries I go through using WMR.

So Based on recommendations and the fact that Costco carries them as well, Eneloop's seem to the consistently the highest rated and best performing Rechargeable on the market. The Cells are made in Japan, but the Chargers are from China, but most people I know recommend them highly.

Also there will always be 1 star reviews of anything. Just like people complain about WMR. 99% of the people could have no issues, but always going to be 1% that ends up with faulty/defective equipment, or abuse them or use it in a manner not recommended. I would not worry about it.

u/Gravesplitter · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Anytime. Let me link the thing I’m ordering

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/Sokurah · 3 pointsr/wiiu

>From what I read the Wii U Pro Controller lasts forever and can be charged by by connecting to the Wii U. Is this correct?

They say the battery life is around 80 hours, and for all I know it is, but I've never needed to use any controller that long without charging it. It does last for a long time, though, and it can be charged by connecting it to the Wii U (mini USB - cable's in the box).

As for the rechargeable batteries, I bought my brother a few pairs of these a couple Christmases ago and he swears by them:

u/broken_radio · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Battery might be a dud or on the way out. 3 out of 4 packs I bought worked for me, one died after a few months; after that I switched over to these Eneloop batteries and never looked back, they work great with the Elite controller.

u/darinclark · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Invest in some good rechargeable AA batteries. My choice is Panasonic Eneloop.

u/XboxOneisanawesome1 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Panasonic Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger with eneloop AA 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (White, Pack of 4)

u/Rycan420 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Correct about he batteries, but don’t buy a cheap charger. You’ll spend an extra $4 for the best on Amazon...

Amazon Link

If you check the reviews on Amazon there is a guy that give extensive reviews on batteries and chargers. He’s really impressed by this one and this price.

I can confirm it’s been great. Charges all brands, and doesn’t require charging 2 at a time like the cheaper chargers.

u/Narutosuns2fan · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Actually a new set of eneloops with the charger is half the price of this, although I totally get wanting to keep your controllers away from your kids.

u/thaddeusblunt · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I just got these

So far they have been great. You will always have a fully charged battery back up ready to go and you can use these for other things besides xbox controllers. I was in your same situation and the pros of the eneloops outweigh the pros of the play and charge. My play and charge kit for the 360 broke pretty fast too. Eneloops are the way to go

u/hulksmash865 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

The X will handle the games AND movies! First I've heard of the S being better at movies. Get some rechargeable batteries like this: I had been using the official play and charge kit until getting these and they last much longer! All the Xbox One controllers should work with the X. Not sure about 3rd party controllers, but the Microsoft brand will. If you can, purchase an extended warranty. But definitely the X is a great system and great timing since Red Dead Redemption 2 is coming out!

u/Darth_Firebolt · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Zebralight H52w. Goes from .01 lumens all the way up to 300 for $64. Spend an extra $17 and get some Panasonic Eneloop (or eneloop pro) batteries and an advanced charger. A tad over budget but you'll have a powerful, long lasting, neutral tint light that can run on any AA size battery, and it can easily be used as a headlamp with the included band, and it has a removable, multi-position pocket clip.

u/skul219 · 3 pointsr/telescopes

I have a couple of computer fans I use on my dob and I use a battery like this:

And I bought the DC connectors like this:

Wired the fan to the connector and it now plugs directly into the battery. I built a splitter with one in connection and 4 out connectors so I can plug multiple fans using only the one battery. The battery lasts several nights, charges easily and is fairly small and portable.

u/wav4rm · 3 pointsr/diysound

I know using 18650s is trendy (and pretty easy if you use an amp board from Parts Express, they sell battery holders that plug right into the boards) but I’ve been a big fan of using a removable battery pack (with its own safety circuit), like this:

I built a mid sized boombox using these:

Using this type of battery makes it easy to swap batteries instead of recharging them inside the unit (I use industrial velcro to keep them secure inside the boombox), and like I said, they already have safety circuits. I like to put an externally visible volt meter on the power switch circuit so you can know how charged your battery is too.

One limitation is you’ll be limited by the amperage of the safety circuitry on the battery configuration you choose. With 18650s you can get a lot more wattage depending on how you configure them, with the battery I suggested you’re limited to 3 amps at 12 volts, so 3 x 12 = 36w total

u/darkapollo1982 · 3 pointsr/telescopes

I have a 5i and it will run all night on this. Plus the plug is correct for the mount. Literally just plug it in and you are set.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/rexingtron · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

I've had plenty of success with the Windcamp kit. I have yet to run it down completely while doing SOTA, but I don't usually operate for more than an hour. That said, I'm running 5w SSB the whole time.

For more juice, and if I care a little bit less about weight, I'll run the internal rechargeable pack in combination with this lovely little pack. There's also the option of just removing the internal pack in this case, but I like having a "reserve" battery.

At some point, I'd like to have a BioEnno LiFePO4, perhaps 6-9 amp-hours or so. And I'd combine this with some sort of solar charging setup. But for now, the above seems to cover most of my needs.

u/sphykik · 3 pointsr/diysound

You can get one that outputs 12v already - something like this: TaletCell

u/fullmetaljackass · 3 pointsr/diysound

I'd just buy this or something similar.

u/Testprints · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Here is one of the LED strips that I use. When you open up the packaging hold your breath as you get a nice smell of the factory the thing came out of, and it is depressing. leaving it over night to air out.

The LED track I currently use for the frame

I purchased some good adhesive backed Velcro from Big Box store and cut everything to fit the bike frame for easy install and removal if a light strip goes out.

I use this battery pack for the bike frames and the smaller ones they sell for the wheels.

There are some basic extender clips off amazon for the LEDs that "work" to connect the frame parts together but short of soldering all the extender clips are hit and miss, so find what works for you.

For the wheels you can do one of three things for installing.

Buy lots of strong adhesive ( a glue gun doesn't work that well and can melt/boil the glue tape the strips come on) and physically fit a square into a round hole. Glue the strips to the wheel frame so the lights are facing to the center but at an angle of the wheel. While the strips are bendable they are only bendable going up and down not side to side so parts of the strip start to bow-out but those spots can be forced into place with enough adhesive. The strips will start to separate from the wheel frame because physics dictates this can't work. It is what I did first to both wheels. The front side didn't work out but the back wheel has been holding together for the past couple of months.


Buy some clear flexible tubing from local box mart and some zip ties. Keep the protective adhesive tape on the LED strip so it can still slide into the tubing and use the zip ties to attach the tubing to the spokes. It will look like shit but it gets the job done. Also cut zip ties are sharp so it kind of turns the wheel into a shitty chainsaw.

buy a 3D printer to make clips to hold the LEDs to the spokes.

As for the power supply I temporary have some Velcro holding them to the wheel spokes, that I am trying to fix.

u/Jophaaa · 3 pointsr/MilwaukeeTool

I couldn't find the exact one I had bought but here is one that looks identical from amazon and around the same price.

u/starbot1 · 3 pointsr/craftymighty

Sure it does... plenty available, though not sure they have this specific model in CA: TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/dabluebunny · 3 pointsr/BackYardChickens

Hope this helps
2 12V Photoelectric relays
12V motor
6mm bore pully to match motor shaft
Project box
2 limit switches
Solar panel
If not solar powered. Aka no solar panel or battery

If you have any other questions let me know I am at work and I will answer what I can on my phone

Edit: I forgot a pully to run the rope from, but the motor I linked has so much torque you could go direct no problem, and lumbar to build the door. I estimated about 10$ for wood. I used all treated, as that's what I had laying around, but its probably not necessary as most of the door on my design was in the coop. I can make you a wiring diagram as well if you are interested. That reminds me you should use 4 zener diodes (just because you only need 4 doesn't mean you shouldn buy a 100 for future projects :) also if you goto an electronics store you will pay 5-6$ for 6 diodes) to stop flash back through the whole circuit from the reversing of polarity with the motor.

u/AnthonyWithNoH · 3 pointsr/videography
u/priceguncowboy · 3 pointsr/photography

I've had good luck with Wasabi Power replacement batteries:

u/heroesforsale · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

Go with Wasabi batts, best 3rd party brand out there.

u/punchingbabies · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

Get one, but like Atom30 said. Don't get it at cyclegear.

Also for anyone that has a gopro you should picked this up as well.

Link You get 2 batteries and a charger for $23. The batteries last 3-3.5 hours compared to the standard gopro ones lasting 2.5 and they fit perfectly.

u/Piktro · 3 pointsr/photography

The corner / wall method is your best option for minimal equipment. White walls are best, grey walls would work too. You will need a single flash or strobe with a cheap light stand / umbrella, and ideally a tripod / tethered laptop to make sure shots are consistent and ensure exposure looks good. Normally you would need a trigger for the flash, but you can use your pop-up flash as an optical trigger without affecting the exposure (covered in the video I linked below).

Cheap Stand / Umbrella ($29):

Cheap / Reliable Flash ($63):

And the following items are not 100% necessary, but you can use them for anything in your house, not just the flash - and these batteries are fantastic.

Rechargable Batteries with Charger ($18):

8-Pack Rechargable AA Batteries ($19):

Here's a video explaining single speed light portraits:
They have some similar videos too, worth checking out.

Just get your settings right with test shots, shoot raw, shoot full manual with an aperture of 5.6 or 8, ISO 100, 1/200 of a second. Your flash through umbrella will probably be at 1/4 or 1/8 power. The closer the light source is to the subject, the softer the light will be. Check your histogram to make sure you aren't blowing out any highlights. Tell people to wear basic, neutral clothes for the shoot, ideally not white, and have them all bring one alternate outfit just in case.

There is a lot that goes into it, but just watch some YouTube videos (Tony Chelsea, Gavin Hoey on Adorama), practice a bit with yourself, friends, family, and you'll be good to go.

If you have any other questions about it, feel free to PM me!

Edit: As far as lenses go, use the 50mm 1.8. It's the sharpest lens in your kit. Don't use it wide open, shoot at f5.6 or higher, and make sure your subject is about 5-6 feet from the wall behind them.

u/Gary_Burke · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Amazon has a four pack with a charger for $20. It's a great deal for the best batteries on the market. I put a pair in my controller on launch day, then proceeded to play a shit-load of battlefield. A week later I changed them while looking at Battlelog, which said I had put in 32 hours that week. 32 hours on one pair of rechargeables. Amazing.

u/a_tallguy · 2 pointsr/electricians

Any 12vdc supply rated higher than what the fan demands should be fine.


u/5mall5nail5 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I'd pick this up from Amazon -

You can get barrel to bare lead adapters or cut the cord and make your own.

u/Kazan · 2 pointsr/photography

If you want smaller panels you're going to sacrifice by them not charging fast enough. You're trying to get too much.

Instead of going solar why don't you just get Wasabi LP-E8 compatibles.

Real LP-E8s are only 8.1Wh the Wasabi are 14.4Wh and WAAAY cheaper. I use Wasabi GoPro batteries and Wasabi LP-E6s all the time. Way better than the official batteries for either.

u/MakinDessert · 2 pointsr/gopro

If you're getting poor battery life, you can get wasabi batteries for cheap. I get 3 hours EASY out of my hero2 on 720p 60fps settings. the new Hero is LESS than the Hero2 in terms of quality and capability. It also seems extremely constricting, in that you can't have wifi, and it appears bacpacs are not going to work with it.

u/natemc · 2 pointsr/gopro

Pick up a Session at a discount and get a external battery charger for your 2, i've never charged a battery in camera.

This is a good combo

u/jnezon · 2 pointsr/gopro

Hero 3, Hero 2 - Still looking for the battery cycling video - I'm sure you can find these on too.. I'm in Canada

u/anonymoooooooose · 2 pointsr/photography

Do you want to record video every second of a 5 hour session or would a time lapse be OK? (1 photo every minute maybe)

Most cameras have a battery adapter option, basically it plugs into the camera where the battery usually fits, the other end plugs into the wall for constant power.

Unfortunately I don't know the proper search term for these adapters, here's a knockof version for Sony mirrorless

u/JulietBravo_ · 2 pointsr/airsoft

You could also try getting new batteries.

If it's a gopro hero 3 or newer, batteries should be pretty cheap on amazon. Forget the external battery thing, I tried it and it's a PITA to get right, doesn't charge great, and puts more weight on your head. I've just swapped batteries during downtime and my Hero 3 silver performs perfectly. This is what I use.

u/AGuyWithABrokenPC · 2 pointsr/gopro

I have a 3+B, and one of my friends has the 3+S.

side by side you can definately tell the difference between cameras, but the silver is still pertty good.

make sure to get a polarizer filter for the lens, so that snow footage is worth using, otherwise there is very little contrast in the snow.

the camera will get about 1:30 on a battery, so get a couple of spares too. wasabi power is a good brand for reliable low cost batteries.


55mm lens adapter

polarizer filter

heres a quick video demonstrating the difference between a polarizer and no polarizer in the snow:

u/Liberadots · 2 pointsr/gopro

, Suction Cup,Polemount(you'll need the tripod mount for this one too)

Those are my essentials. if you dont want mounts then just get the batteries. if you're going to use the Wi-fi it really drains the batteries and the wall charger is convient

u/ScriptLoL · 2 pointsr/gopro

These. Two [better] batteries + your original gives you about 3.5~ hours of filming at 1080p/60fps. Its also cheaper to buy that than to buy the actual GoPro batteries IIRC.

u/somedude456 · 2 pointsr/gopro
  1. Buy it shortly so you have time to play with it, master the settings, etc.

  2. I would buy some extra batteries. I think many people here have used these with good success: That gives you a car charger, wall charger, and 2 batteries for $25.

  3. This starts with more of a question, but are you taking a cell phone. I would simply to use as a wifi device. I've yet to try this, so maybe someone else can chime in, but if you have a phone with a micso SD slot, you can take the card from the gopro, but it in your phone, and when you're in an area with wifi, like a cafe/hotel/restaurant, you could then upload the files to some sort of online storage site.

  4. At a minimum I would grab a couple extra SD cards anyway. Keep an eye on and you should be able to pick up 32gb class 10 cards for about $25.

  5. ENJOY, and I can't wait to see some footage!
u/gooker10 · 2 pointsr/gopro

He is right on the 1.5hours.

You need more? Here is your answer $25.00 -

u/DesignNomad · 2 pointsr/gopro

Yeah, a lot of us use the Wasabi batteries. They get a very similar life to the original GoPro batteries, and you can get 2 and a charger for around $25 on Amazon.

EDIT: link for you-

u/The__RIAA · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Go for the Wasabi batteries on amazon instead of the GoPro ones. Cheaper, comes with charger, and just as good.

u/chikknwatrmln · 2 pointsr/motorcycles
u/Zhai · 2 pointsr/gopro

I recently went to Portugal for 12 days and managed to go through it without charging my accus. I took 3 with me - original and 2 Wasabi batteries. I wasn't constantly shooting - I was turning it off and on.

Something like this - USB charger charges 2 batteries at the time, but I'm not sure if solar panels will be able to generate over 3 amps. Check it. Other than that - keep them close to body in a ziplock plastic bag. You can throw in some silica gel bags

Disclaimer - I never took my gopro to as harsh environment as Himalayas. Maybe try to find on youtube/vimeo people who actually went there and used GoPro.

u/JP8_And_Coke · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

I'm loving mine:
And I can charge 1, 2, 3, or 4 at a time. Get two of the above, and you're set for a long time.

u/bushmaster2000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I use Panasonic Enerloop batteries they're a newer generation of rechargeable and highly recommended, they're 2000mah with 2100 recharge cycle lifetime.


if you jsut want to go for raw capacity, here's some 3000mah ones

u/BrewingHeavyWeather · 2 pointsr/flashlight

> To be frank, I don't fully understand all the differences yet. Any type of battery should be fine as long as it can be recharged or replaced fairly easily (i.e. via Amazon or regular hardware stores).

There's pretty much 1xAA, 2xAA, 1xCR123, 2xCR123, and 18650 (not all 18650 flashlights take CR123s!). CR123 is, IMO, a nicer form factor, for handling, but rechargeable energy density is crap, TBH. AA gives you the most versatility. But, avoid alkalines whenever possible, for flashlights. For AA size, depending on flashlight, either go with 14500, or Japan-made Eneloops (Duracell and Amazonbasics both have rebranded versions of these at good prices).

AA NIMH have a nominal voltage range of 1.0-1.25V. 14500 fit in the same space, with 3.6-4.2V, should a single AA flashlight allow greater voltage. Often, that will give you greater max output. OTOH, you'll have to be really careful if lending the light to anyone else. Today, though, most get pretty good output on AA NIMH. Japanese Eneloops are the best rechargeables out there, and can be found under Panasonic's name, Amazonbasics', and Duracell (if buying at a B&M store, look for made in Japan on the back). I've had those, and knock-offs (like Rayovac's), and over time, with real world use, the difference is not subtle. I have not used Chinese Eneloops, myself, but largely because reports by users, and tests on them, indicated similar behavior to the knock-offs I'd had. The Japanese ones just keep on going.

18650 is a little bigger than 2xCR123, and has a nominal voltage range of 3.6-4.2V. 2xCR123 have a nominal range of around 2.5-6V. 18650 has the most R&D going into it, being the most popular size (it's what is in laptops and power tools, among other things), so you get the most energy storage for the size, weight, and money. But, it does not have a comparable primary cell to swap it with, so make sure the flashlight in question can take 2xCR123 as backup (if not stated that way, make sure it can take at least 6V input).

You can get good chargers and batteries for $15-20 total, for about any handheld sizes (make sure to get a charger that has independent bays, if going AA NIMH - example), so your $75 budget is pretty realistic, and honestly, gives you tons of options.

Also, if you keep up with your rechargeable cells, costs of Lithium primary batteries (including AAA and AA) will not be much, in the long run. A leaky alkaline AA can do a lot of damage, so I would advise against using them if there is any other option; and the actual costs over time are fairly small, when you're usually just partially discharging the rechargeable cell(s) in between top offs, 90% of the time.

Panasonic-made CR123s are the quality ones to buy, if going that route for primaries. They can be had online for around $1.50/ea., so comparable with, or slightly cheaper than, AA Lithiums. You can also buy them at not-exorbitant prices at hardware stores and outdoors stores, and probably gun shops. Surefire, Streamlight, and Duracell, are all made at the same plant, and are all good quality. Some cheaper ones, like the popular Tenergy, are known for aging poorly, and getting unbalanced quickly. If mainly using rechargeable cells for day to day use, I don't think saving money that way provides good value.

> A good mix of throw and flood seems best. I don't want something too far toward either end of the spectrum.

While I'm not a big fan of their UIs (though the Pro does seem nicer than non-Pro, IMO), I think Armytek's TIR lights have the best balanced beams for EDCs, in the $40-60 range, with a wide spot, and plenty of flood.

u/superninjaa · 2 pointsr/xbox

Yes. There's an Xbox One Play & Charge Kit that you can purchase at most stores. Another alternative which I personally use are rechargeable battery kits such as this which include four batteries, equivalent to two battery packs and it's cheaper as well.

u/BkLiveWire · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Here’s what I recommend [Panasonic Eneloop AA Batteries 4 Pack](Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/BaconStratman · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Works great for me at house parties, small venues, and churches.

I've read complaints about the clip and a weak battery door but I keep a pouch on my guitar straps that holds and protects the transmitter and my guitars well:

I also rotate rechargeable batteries so I don't worry about losing my signal mid set:

u/miggitymikeb · 2 pointsr/xbox360

Eneloops son

Don't buy a wired controller, buy this.

u/gonekrazy3000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

had a similar issue with my 1080ti and believe it or not the easiest fix was to buy a htc vive link box. i tried tons of repeaters and other adapters and nothing worked. got the link box and suddenly my oculus can easily run even the cable listed here:- which is notorious for not working on most gpus. you can buy the link box on amazon here:- but keep in mind that you will have to get the power adapter seperately. i'm using this one with no issues whatsoever:-

u/glassdragon · 2 pointsr/Vive

I received this 15' displayport cable extension today and have tested it to my satisfaction that it works well (combined with the stock Pro displayport cable). I also use this 15' USB cable. If you would prefer to extend the power cord without having a giant junction visible of that big HTC wall plug to an extension cord, you can use this power plug, combined with this extender.

u/PeanutTheGladiator · 2 pointsr/Vive

Rumor has it, this will do the trick.

u/stolirocks · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.

Plugable Active DisplayPort to...

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI...

Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB...

HTC Vive Link Box

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power...

u/tclemstudios · 2 pointsr/videography

I live stream podcasts with multiple angles. Someone recently asked me about all the gear I use to do it so I made a list.

Program - This is the program I use to broadcast. You can stream and record at the same time.


Dummy Battery for cameras

Capture cards - These are used to connect the cameras to the PC

HDMI to MICRO HDMI - capture card to camera

Audio Interface


u/Fergvision · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

This. This is the easiest/cheapest way to go. This plate and take your pick of battery capacity from this brand, DSTE.

The NP-F 970s last about 3-4 hours depending on conditions and the much smaller NP-F 550s last over an hour, up to 2, again, depending on conditions.

I found using a cage for the BMPCC like this was helpful for attaching it. It’s definitely not a perfect solution but absolutely one of the cheapest. The biggest fault I’ve found would be that the Battery plate gets absolutely no feedback from the camera, so it constantly drains the battery until you physically unhook it from the plate, even when not charging/powering the camera.

I’ve also heard great things about this battery/power solution from a lot of guys who use the BMPCC and BMCC but haven’t used it myself. I can confirm that a 12v usb battery bank will also do the job, I use the same cord from my battery plate to connect it but you can order them separate simply by searching amazon for “BMPCC Cords”

u/rpprdud · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

SMALLRIG DV Battery Plate Adapter for BMPCC/BMCC/BMPC - 1765

DSTE 2X Replacement Li-ion NP-F970 Battery for Sony DCM-M1 MVC-CD1000 HDR-FX1 DCR-VX2100E DSR-PD190P NEX-FS700RH HXR-NX3 Camera as NP-F930 NP-F950 NP-F960

This setup is like $70 and it gives you 6 hours of power

u/x43romp · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

There are NPF plates that output 12V. I'm using this one, but I recommend getting the tilta plate or any with a metal case. Using an NPF 970, I'm getting about 2h30m plus an extra 20-30 minutes with the internal LPE6 battery (I use this 20-30 minutes l window to swap in a new NPF battery)

u/RaptorMan333 · 2 pointsr/videography

Batteries - $22 - - Always used these and they've never let me down. G7 lasts a good 5-6 hrs of shooting, but another battery can get me through an entire day.

Luckily for audio stuff, audio isn't much of a concern, but if you need something, the VideoMicro is only around $50.

Bag choices are endless and i really cant recommend one simply because there are so many options. Look at B&H or amazon. I use the Lowepro Transit Sling (around $35) when i'm traveling. In general, lowepro makes a ton of good options that aren't crazy. I also love the Canon 100DG or 200DG bag for something a little bit bigger

For lighting there are a couple ways to go. On the ultra cheap side, you can essentially DIY a lighting setup using home depot clamp lights and/or work lights. But that's like emergency level broke. You're better off just saving up and picking up either a few budget LED panels or I also REALLY like the older Lowell Pro light kits that you can get used. They're tungsten hard light kits but are great as a solo shooter. I picked up a 4 light (200w/each) kit on ebay with stands, gels, diffusion, case, etc, for around $200. For LED panels, i recommend looking at the Yongnuo YN300iii. It's $60 but it's better than most LED options under $100. Keep in mind that you will need a stand ($20) and batteries ($20).

For memory, pretty much any UHS-1 speed card from a major manufacturer will work. You can get away with 32gb but you'll probably just want to pony up for a 64gb. It's up to you though. I use various sandisks. Here is a good one -

I'll keep adding stuff as i think of it

u/gazukull · 2 pointsr/SonyAlpha

Assuming you are in the US RavPower batteries have the most / best rating on Amazon. I have a couple of these. But actually the two Sony batts in my grip usually last me for whatever I am doing (a6500) so I have not used mine much.

u/patcheswfb · 2 pointsr/SonyAlpha

I've been extremely pleased with the capacity of these -

u/DeliciousGorilla · 2 pointsr/SonyAlpha

I picked up this. Seemed like a good price. So far so good!

u/MrWriteLA · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

Did some research on the NP-F batteries, looks like they last about 2.5-3 hours EACH camera only, so both can run the camera only for 5-6 hours.

I also got 2 of these NP-F Powerextra batteries. They are a little more expensive at $22 each but they have a built in meter, 1 USB and 1 DC port that's great for powering a monitor if you don't have a D-Tap to DC cable..

Powerextra Multifunctional Battery Pack Power Bank with USB Output for Sony NP-F970, NP-F975, NP-F960, NP-F950, NP-F930 Battery and Smart Phones

u/thegreychampion · 2 pointsr/videography

You can charge your camera from any monitor that takes a Sony NP-F battery, using this battery. It has a DC output and a USB output. From what I understand, you can power the a6500 either through the USB or with a dummy battery.

Dummy battery is more efficient as you get direct power, where USB merely charges your battery as you're using the camera - so all you're doing is basically slowing the drain of your battery, though it's a little 'cleaner' of a solution, and you don't run the risk of a bad dummy battery that misregulates the power input and fries your camera.

Aside from the Shinobi, check out the Portkeys, there's a 5" 1500nit or 7" 1200nit option for $289 and one cool thing about it is it actually has a DC output built in so you can use any Sony NP-F battery.

u/theChetaMeister · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

I ended up going with this combo.

2 PowerExtra batteries

npf adapter (has 12v bm power + dc port for dummy battery)

2 Telesin LP-e6 batteries with charger + sd reader

anker multi usb charger (60w) to charge the Powerextra batteries and whatever else needed.


I also picked up the smallrig cage. ill pick up the tilta later one along with a matte box so i can start adding some 4x4 filters to the collection.

u/FunDeckHermit · 2 pointsr/batteries

If you want to build it yourself: you are on the right track.

If you want a (almost) ready solution, then this might be what you are looking for. It's a simple 11.1V - 3S case with (5V) buck converter and a BMS. You should test if your horn works down to 9V. If that's the case then this will be an excellent solution.

>Given the voltage and current requirements, should I expect to be able to build this in a convenient handheld size and weight form factor?

This will depend on your usage. You should test the horn and calculate it's power consumption.

>Does a 4S system sound reasonable here? If so what kind of battery protection and charge circuit am I looking for?

As stated above, you need to test your horn to test its voltage range.

>Can I reasonably charge a 4S system from USB? Is there a convenient boost converter board out there to do this, or built into a 4S battery management board?

For simplicity I would go for a dedicated 3S or 4S charger.

>Should I instead consider a single cell battery system with a DC-DC boost to drive the load? That would seem easier to charge and manage the battery, but 3.7V to 12-14V at 10A seems like it might be a hefty boost converter.

14V * 10A = 140W.

140W/3.0V = 46A

You'd need to draw 46A from your 1S pack of cells.


u/alltheredditforme · 2 pointsr/batteries

My original post is based on trying to replicate from pictures what someone else has done which, presumably, worked at some level. Metal detector technology, particularly in the battery department, is still in the stone age. Dealing with 8x AA cells is unreasonable and ends up with a ton of crap in the landfill, hence my wanting to swap out so something better.

So, if building something like this is complicated, unsafe, etc... what's the happy path to getting to where I want to be?

Something like

and setup an adapter from the current battery pack connector to convert to it?

To be clear, I'm not doing this because I have any desire to build a battery pack, I'm just trying to get somewhere more reasonable than a fistfull of AAs.

u/ninja_penguin16 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Raspberry pi 3b plus, screen controller( depends on what your screen is), and 12v and 5v power bank with the case torn off so it would fit

u/MDWB8A4 · 2 pointsr/Dynavap

I don't know which the OP used but it looks like this one.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 3000mAh Lithium ion Battery Pack for LED Strip, CCTV Camera and More, DC 12V/5V USB Dual Output External Battery Power Bank with Charger, Black

u/ZacharyRD · 2 pointsr/FastLED

For posterity, found a battery solution that worked great, iof anyone else has the same problem -- -- has a built in switch, has 12v out via a barrel jack, has 5v via USB. USB stays on as long as the switch is on, even under tiny load (just an Arduino). I linked it to a barrel jack adapter, here: . Power to Arduino via USB, common ground to the barrel jack power adapter terminal block, capacitor across the terminal block, power and ground out to the Neopixel strand.

u/4acodmt92 · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

I opted to get this battery:

The battery comes with a handy quick release system so i attached the clamp piece to a 15mm rail block and slid that on the back of a set of 18" rails. At least on my Tilta cage, it ends up just barely not obscuring the built in screen, which is nice. Plus, Juicebox makes a 12v locking pin cable for the battery to avoid using the dummy battery which in my opinion is awkward and clunky. The other nice thing about this set up is that it balances the camera quite well since it's normally so front heavy.


Here's a photo of my set up:

u/Dogwoodhikes · 2 pointsr/Ultralight

Why are you taking 1 3/4 lbs of electronics? A paper TRT map can be as little as 1.4 ozs if left in it's entirety, less if you cut it up mailed to resupply locations with electronics/charger/cords. If you resupply every 3-5 days push the chargers around the lake using USPS Priority mail taking 2 days mailed to your resupply locations. This could eliminate carrying all this:

  • Anker PowerCore 10000 6.35 oz
  • PlugAnker Dual Port 12W Wall Charger 1.28 oz
  • CablesUSB to USB C, USB to Micro USB for 1.9 oz
  • GPSGarmin Inreach Explorer+ 7.5 oz

    Even if daily on trail requiring the Smart Ph reduction in energy consumption w a paper map could reduce wt by not daily needing Anker PowerCore 10000 6.35 oz, Anker Dual Port 12W Wall Charger 1.28 oz, CablesUSB to USB C, USB to Micro USB for 1.9 oz.


    TRT in summer with some snow coverage, your off trail experience, a light or UL load out, decent fitness, and map may not need the In Reach. It's a blazed trail with Lake Tahoe your handrail for navigation. Compasses are less 2 oz. If heavy trail snow coverage take the In Reach and map. Use In Reach only when necessary to conserve. How difficult the travel and navigation depends on your specific snow coverage which isn't yet known. Play it by ear the closer the start time to make final kit/electronic tweaks. Could consider this if you already have not.


    With the snow in your UL favor, there's your on demand H2O wt. Might not need to carry much if any.


    If reduction in food and electronics wt and bulk is forthcoming might not need 64 cubes, perhaps as light as 50-55 cubes and a lighter wt pack. Even so those reductions could lead to removing the HMG Windrider 3400 Al stays.
u/bacon_jews · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had this once, batteries completely drained within 1 day. I figured it's probably because I was setting my controllers thumbstick down and they were triggered as active, but I can't prove that. Now I set controllers trigger down and I keep my Oculus runtime turned off when not using, just in case.

For batteries just get Panasonic Eneloop. You'll have two charging and two in controllers, just swap them when needed. It will pay back in no time, also more environmentally friendly.

u/ggf31416 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

If you want a cheap AA option: Sofirn SP10A ($12) + Panasonic Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop ($18). You can get both from Amazon.
or even cheaper Sofirn SP10A + 4 Amazonbasics rechargable batteries from Amazon (you may need to buy something else to get free shipping) + a Zanflare Lii 100 ($4) single slot charger from Gearbest.

For another 18650 option A: Zanflare F1 4500-5000K from Gearbest with usb charging + get a protected battery from either Ilumn (they have a protected 3500mah MJ1 for $6.50 + shipping), IMRbatteries or liionwholesale.
For another 18650 option B: If the fog is dense I would suggest the Sofirn SF36W with a 2800mah battery from aliexpress, which it's available on 3000K warm white and should penetrate better the fog.

u/Nusent · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Eneloop is the way to go. Best purchase in a while.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger with eneloop AA New 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack, White

u/reditor_1234 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)


As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :

Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**


And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :


These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.

u/OscarExplosion · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Not sure how the Xbox One Play n Charge kits are, but the Xbox 360 ones are notorious for being total garbage. You are way better off buying a pack of eneloops and a charger

u/SchmoopiePoopie · 2 pointsr/Xbox_One_X

I highly recommend rechargeable batteries, especially if you only use them for XOX controllers. I use these and they blow away the other brands I’ve used in the past. Having 4 is good because you can swap them out.

u/voneahhh · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It's right here

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/Conrpnc · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Go with these and this. I'm sure there are better deals to be found, I just went for the easy links.

EDIT: Sorry, that first link should have been to just the batteries not the pack with the charger. Point is Eneloops and a good charger.

u/Kronickiller125 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

4 AA standard charger


That’s a good price then you can build up.

u/YouAreSalty · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I recommend getting something like this:

This is the minimum as you need a charger, but there are packs at Costco often on sale for $20 that has like 6 AA batteries and 2 AAA. The one great deal on Amazon today is sold out. I missed out too. :'(

u/trAnwhiz · 2 pointsr/SteamController

The white Eneloops barely discharge when not used, which is important since you will have the 2nd pair charged and ready to replace the used ones when you run out of juice. You don't wanna pop in half charged batteries every time.

There are also higher capacity (~2500 mAh) Eneloops compared to the white ones (1900 mAh) but that comes at the expense of lifespan / charge cycles. The white ones are ultra durable, about 2000 charge cycles.

u/TheBassassin · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Don't buy Nyko anything. At least my experience has been bad with that brand.

My advice would be to buy Eneloops which are rechargeable and affordable AA batteries.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (4 pack)

u/DJManny128 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Here's the Amazon link for these Batteries

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (4 pack)

Edit: Here's my choice if you want OVERKILL.

Panasonic K-KJ17KHC82A eneloop pro NEW High Capacity Power Pack, 8AA, 2AAA, with "Advanced" Individual Battery Charger

u/jimbonics · 2 pointsr/xboxone
u/TheBigBadQ · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I cannot recommend these enough.

My roommate has 12 that he swaps out throughout his devices and they're all working as great today as they did 2 years ago. I've had my set of 4 for about 4 months and they've been amazing. So much better than the play and charge kit. Also, if you have other micro USB cables I would try them because back when I had an Elite, only certain ones would charge it.

u/bowlofspiders · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Use this link:
That's the one I purchased. The charger takes about 4 hours to charge the batteries if you're patient and don't want the pro charger.

u/JRhodes88 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is pretty much expected. If you are using more features that are being powered through the same 2 AA batteries, there will be more drain then not having those extra features.

I'd recommend you get some of these Sanyo Eneloops for your controllers (and other electronics in your house)

u/PastalaVista666 · 2 pointsr/betteroffbrands

I actually got one when I bought my Xbox One (tax refund, woo), but it doesn't work at all. The controllers don't seat in the charger so they don't charge. I'm leery of getting another, just because I don't want the same situation to happen.

I'm looking at these rechargeable Panasonic batteries and charger for about $15, they're not off-brand but they might save some money.

u/genevieveann · 2 pointsr/breastfeeding

A friend uses this one with her Spectra and loves it. I never used it because I didn't know about it for baby #1 but may get it for baby $2 (whenever that happens). TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/SoberBrent · 2 pointsr/diysound

It does say they have a BMS so it’s got some protection for the cells. I’m not sure if it would be full capacity for that price. I recently tried out this power bank/12v battery

Used Velcro to attach it to the back of my project. I’ve used it for a week and it’s still half full and you can always peel it off the Velcro and use it for a usb power bank.

u/dalearino · 2 pointsr/Tools

This battery fits in the little elastic pocket and will run for hours on high.

TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack for LED Strip and CCTV Camera, Portable Li-ion Battery Bank with Charger, Black (Multi-led Indicator)

u/thisbenguy · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

Good day. I am in the final stages of completion of a Pelican Boom Box and have a question about charging this [Lithium Ion Battery]( I have linked. If you click through the images you can see that I presently have the battery wired to a terminal block that goes up to a switch and the charging port on the exterior of the case.
For charging I used an [SAE socket]( because that is what all the accessories on my motorcycle are powered by. I have replaced the end of the included wall charger for the LI battery (12V @ 1A) with the corresponding SAE plug. My goal is to be able to charge the case on AC from the wall plug, or DC from the bike or any other 12V outlet. When I spoke with a representative from the battery company they stated that 1A is the max amperage the battery should receive.

My questions are these;

  1. Do they make a product that is an AC to DC converter that will allow DC input to pass through and become regulated to a specific amperage if that is what it was connected to. I'd prefer to have as little external of the box as possible. My desire is to have the wall AC/DC converter internal to the box so if I plug in an external power cable to AC through the SAE socket it will convert to DC @ 1A and if I were to plug in to a DC source it would regulate the incoming voltage to 12V @ 1A. If a product like this does not exist, can I add some sort of amperage regulation in line so when I'm powering off DC I don't blow my box up.

  2. I was receiving a significant amount of interference from the bluetooth module and when hardwired to the 3.5mm jack from my cell phone. A ground loop isolator inline solved 90% of the noise, but I didn't know if there were any other tricks you had.

  3. In order to extend the antenna of my bluetooth dongle I'm going to solder an additional antenna. I used (300/2450MHz)/4(1/4 wave)=.030cm. If I did that correctly, I would need a 30mm antenna to act as my 1/4 wave bluetooth antenna.

  4. For audio switching between the Bluetooth module and the 3.5mm jack I ran each channel of each input to it's own section of a 4pdt relay, from a switch that also switches on power to the Bluetooth. The output of the relay goes to the amp and I jumped the output of both relay sides to have one cable. For the audio grounds I connected them all together for the two input and one output cable. All the audio works fine, I was unsure if this was the appropriate way to do it, or if there is something better.

    Over all this has been a fun project and I look forward to version 2.0.
    Build Link
u/EkriirkE · 2 pointsr/retrobattlestations

If you look at Page 116 for the TechRef Manual the front battery port has the following pinout:

1 +5V
5 +12V

So something like this could potentially power it while fitting in one of the disk bays like the modems usually did

u/Nu_Quote · 2 pointsr/titanfall

Here is the image set of my first set of mods.

Since then I have moved to an external power supply, and switched from the internal mic to a throat mic and an external PA speaker. The fans I used were 30mm x 30mm computer fans being powered by this power cell.

u/Gumlog · 2 pointsr/kayakfishing

Couple additional thoughts...

  • I didn't see a PFD on the list? Looking at the fly-fishing vest I'm pretty sure that's not a PFD.
  • Rod leashes -- I find a bit of 3mm accessory cord (or 550 paracord) and a couple knots serves just fine as a rod leash. Set up a running bowline on one end to drop over a cleat or rod holder, then double half hitch around the rod ahead of the reel foot.
  • Sonar - make sure you know the difference between the Striker 4 and the Striker Plus 4, as well as the difference between the chirp-only transducer and ClearVu+Chirp version (4cv). Pricing on these is not all that far apart, and it may be worth a few more $$ to get the newest model (Plus) instead of the old version (non-Plus).
  • Battery -- Have a look at lithium ion vs gel-cell. Striker Plus 4 has a stated current draw of 0.4A -- so a 6000mAH/6AH battery such as this one should last you all day. TalentCell Rechargeable 12V 6000mAh/5V 12000mAh DC Output Lithium Ion Battery Pack
    • (for full disclosure, I've only been able to bench-test that battery with my EchoMap 73sv so far, hope to get on the water with it this weekend.)
u/GrooveJourney · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

Parts list:




Subwoofer was from an Altec Lansing computer speaker set, and the box can be had at any local military surplus store.

u/iscorama · 2 pointsr/BMCCUSER

I've heard that these batteries are magical. In all seriousness, this seems like a good bet. If not this, V-mount all the way. This battery has served me well.

u/kabbage123 · 2 pointsr/videography

FS7 is a good camera with industry familiarity, but I would check out the Panasonic EVA-1. It does everything the FS7 can do pretty much (except internal 4k60fps 10-bit, it's limited to 8-bit), has better colors (especially with skintones), and is much more lightweight. I just bought it myself over the FS7 because I like the image better and I travel a lot. So far it's been a great camera for me.

Since the FS7 has been out for awhile, check out SmallRig for some accessories. They are a pretty impressive company that makes quality products at a fraction of the price of what Zacuto charges. They have a TON of stuff for the FS7.

That's a nice tripod but if you are going to stick with 75mm ball, you should get this combo with the FSB 8 instead. It'll give you the better stability and more drag. I just got off my first shoot with that exact same combo and it was a very pleasant experience. Tripods are a life purchase, so why not splurge here?

I own a few Dracast V-Mount batteries and can attest for their build quality over the years. However, the 90wh is simply not enough for a camera with accessories. I recently picked up a few MaxOak V-Mount batteries, which are 177wh and even have a USB out. However if you plan on flying, I'd stick with batteries that have 90wh.

Fujinon is absolutely killing it with the zoom lenses, it's a great choice. Maybe consider getting PL mount to future-proof yourself. Also I think you can get a full-frame look with a speedbooster that way, too.

That lightkit looks a bit weak. You'll need a softbox at least and maybe some panels. The Aputure 300d has my attention, personally. I'd build a kit around that if I was starting from scratch.

If I have any advice it would be to have good casing for everything. Design your cases in a way that an idiot can pack your bag for you. That way, when you have an intern (or a nice client even).

It's a great kit and you are going to kick some ass!

u/frankiethah · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

This is what I got for $18 it comes with the charger and 4 eneloopes , I figured if they last me two to three days then I will have a spare pair to switch them out with and charge the others . They are rated for 2100 charge cycles and should last a while

u/buffysbangs · 1 pointr/xboxone

Just get a set of eneloops and a charger ( ). At least on the 360 the MS rechargeable pack was just a plastic case around 2 rechargeable AA’s the xb1 controller is probably the same.

u/theflyingbaron · 1 pointr/oculus

Should do, but otherwise this doesn't break the bank and is fantastic. Two in the controllers and two charging, ready to be switched out at any time.

u/RisingTide84 · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

As someone who has scratched their lenses with their glasses, PLEASE buy some sort of lens protectors! I bought these in black

And while not needed I also purchased the 3D printed brackets for the DAS mod. I bought the first design, but I think they have improved a bit since then.

I would also highly recommend the AMVR facial interface, it has a cut out specifically for glasses and it is super comfortable.

I also bought the VR cover DAS padding because the DAS started to hurt the back of my head. the VR cover padding is AMAZING!

Finally, I picked these up rechargeable batteries and they hold a charge for a really long time. I would highly recommend them.

Hope this list helps!

u/TellitToTheJudge · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

A set of four rechargeable AA batteries (for the controllers.) I recommend Eneloop branded.

As someone with glasses you should grab a pair of 3D printed lens protectors. These make it impossible for your glasses to touch the lenses. You can get a thicker protector if your glasses are more convex.

Get a hard shell travel case of some type.

The new slim PU leather covers from VRCover are nice. It adds comfort and makes your Quest more wipeable.

u/guruguys · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Any low self discharge rechargeable batteries will work fine (they will say 'pre-charged, ready to use, low self discharge) on the package. The popular brand is Eneloop and you can get a set with a charger pretty cheap, but you can get the Amazon Basics or Ikea Ladda's that will work just as good in your controllers.

u/rootbeerfetish · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Make sure the dongle you buy is Bluetooth 4.0. Yes it uses batteries. It comes with a first set but it's up to you to figure it out after that. Through some research I did I found this rechargeable battery kit. They last forever and you'll save money in the long run.

u/posternerd · 1 pointr/flashlight

Take a look at Selfbuilt's recommendations, categorized by types and numbers of batteries used:

I recommend the 4x Eneloop AA and charger bundle from Amazon for gifting with AA lights. They're quality low-discharge batteries that should last quite some time.

u/UnrealAce · 1 pointr/xboxone

My girlfriend picked up a pair of Duracel Rechargables for us and they've been working great.

If you prefer the Microsoft route it's always reliable.

Or the ever popular Eneloop Rechargables

All 3 of those options last quite a long time, I've only tried the Duracel's but they've been fantastic for such a cheap price.

u/well_versed · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/mrbooze · 1 pointr/gadgets

Also something like this is less than $20. Just swap as needed.

u/bob_mcbob · 1 pointr/Blind

The manual for the Ruby says it comes with rechargeable NiMH batteries and has a built-in charger for them. I gather you were using alkaline because you may need to swap batteries during a shift, so why not just buy an external charger and a dozen high quality NiMH batteries and never have to worry about paying for batteries again?

The best simple charger for NiMH is the Panasonic BQ-CC17. It's available in a kit with either AA or AAA, but the AAA price is a bit of a rip-off; you may as well get the AA version and order some AAA separately.

For batteries, get as many AmazonBasics AAA as you would like. They come in high capacity and regular versions, but the cost difference is a lot higher than the capacity difference, so just decide for yourself what you prefer.

Important note: you should not mix NiMH and alkaline batteries in a device.

u/BashOff · 1 pointr/xboxone

I bought a pack with 4 AA batteries and charger for around 15 bucks about a year ago. Here's the one I have

u/jupitersarmy · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

I’ve ordered some eneloop rechargeable batteries. Saw a few people here recommend them.

u/byzantinedavid · 1 pointr/flashlight

Klarus Mi7 - this light WILL take 14500s.

Be careful, only certain colors from Amazon have pocket clips (make sure it shows a clip in the pictures)

Also, I second the ThruNite T10 (or in Titanium] with NiMH batteries.

I recommend you buy Eneloop rechargeables

They'll save you a ton of money in the end, are more reliable, and just better.

u/MoogleMan3 · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

No, you have to charge them with the charger that comes with the set.

u/TwistedStack · 1 pointr/Philippines

Yes, they're rechargeable. I think I bought four AA batteries and the charger for 1.5k PHP years ago. Looks like it's a set of eight batteries and a charger on Amazon now.

EDIT: This is what I got ->

You should be able to buy it at camera stores. They're the only places I saw carrying eneloop batteries in Manila.

u/Coola · 1 pointr/xboxone

Sure thing, I got the 4 pack with the charger at Amazon: Eneloop 4 Pack

I remember reading somewhere on reddit about a different charger being better but I've had no issues with these. With it being a 4 pack, I always have 2 fully charged batteries ready to go. Also the added benefit is obviously using the batteries for other things, so that's cool too.

u/lec0rsaire · 1 pointr/xboxone

Play & charge kit? These things suck unfortunately. The battery somehow miscommunicates with the system and says it’s charged when it really isn’t.

The way to fix it is by completely draining the battery until the controller doesn’t turn on even for a single second. When it’s completely drained then plug it in and fully charge it. It should take 3-4 hours for a full charge. Any less and something is wrong.

This process resets the battery. Otherwise just buy Panasonic Eneloops and forget about the play/charge kit. They act like normal AAs so you will never have to put up with this crap again.

With this package you should always have 2 batteries ready to go:

u/bravokiloromeo · 1 pointr/photography

Ah, there are external batteries that you can power the flash with, so that's what that cord would be for.

>So if I buy the Eneloops batteries I also need some sort of AC adapter charger for it? How do you recharge your Eneloops?

Correct. I'd just buy something like this kit which gets you 4 AAs and the charger. From then on, you just need more batteries (unless you want more chargers).

Thankfully Panasonic was wonderfully smart and made the chargers fit both AA and AAA, so if you decide to buy AAAs in the future you already ahve a charger with this kit. The AmazonBasics High Capacity Batteries are similar and do charge in the Eneloop chargers (I have Amazon batteries for use in things other than my speedlight).

u/issak42 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

> And come on a rechargeable battery included is almost mandatory this days

Nothing is stopping you from using rechargable AAs. Frankly, I think standard AAs are a big plus compared to yet another proprietary battery.

u/Leaden_Specter · 1 pointr/dataisbeautiful

This needs to be much higher. Why use wasteful single-use batteries when there's a rechargeable option that is nearly as good? I've replaced all of my household batteries with Eneloops as well. Some of them are older models that have been charged many times and, as far as I can tell, they're just as good as they were new. The newer Eneloop Advanced Charger that comes with 4 AAs is excellent as well. They are available on Amazon.

u/BagelBites619 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I'm sure you can do more research and find some for cheaper. But these are what I got. 4 AA batteries with the charger for $18. That way you always have a fresh pair ready to go when one pair dies.

u/Sarz13 · 1 pointr/LogitechG

(Old comment I know but just wanting to pitch in) Love the 700s. I too charged mine for the most part of a year, ended up buying the Eneloop Charging pack and now I never charge this damn thing! Makes having a swappable battery Wireless mouse so much easier.

I bought 3 of these g700s while they were down to 40-60$ and well in stock before what ultimately happened now being scarce and expensive. Probably never gonna switch from this mouse unless they come out with an exact replica like they did with the G700s from the G700.

u/Sprankster2992 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Instead of a charging station I would recommend rechargable batteries. I have these

They work well and they have lasted me over 3 years without any issues. I have 8 batteries so I always have a charged set.

u/gatorsss1981 · 1 pointr/photography

I am interested in getting into photography and recently ordered my first camera. I bought a Canon T5i w/ EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS STM Lens and a EF 75-300mm F/4-5.6 III Autofocus Telephoto Zoom Lens.

I am mainly interested in taking portraits, landscape and event photos. The events I work at are in everything from hotel ballrooms, private homes to convention spaces, almost always indoors with fairly dim lighting.

I've been trying to do some research on different equipment and gear that I would need, and came up with the following list. Is there anything that I don't need or a better alternative than I have listed? Is there anything I'm missing?


"Nifty Fifty" Lens -

Bag -

Memory Card -

Battery Grip -

Speedlite 430 -

Lightsphere -

Book 1 -

Book 2 -

GorillaPod -

Battery Charger -

Extra Batteries -

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/xboxone

Buy a charger and a 4 pack of Eneloop batteries. Can get it pretty cheap on Amazon. That way you always got a spare pair of AA's ready to go.

That's what I did.


u/lightd93 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Someone recommended these a while back on reddit and they are amazing! Rechargeable Panasonic Eneloop batteries. They even last a lot longer than the Play and charge.

Edit: The only downside is you have to swap out the batteries once they are dead. Charge and play you can just plug in the cable.

u/bombadil1564 · 1 pointr/batteries

Not exactly your answer, but I highly recommend getting some quality low self-discharge NiMH rechargeable batteries. The Amazon Basic ones are good. Not only rechargeable, but they don't leak. Eneloop is the gold standard as well and they come with a decent charger.

You basically get a free charger with this pack:

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/OculusN · 1 pointr/oculus

Actually, I think this is the better deal unless you plan to use these for more than a few years:

And if you want the best without regard for money, this is probably it:

u/BagOnuts · 1 pointr/xboxone

A pack of 4 AA eneloops and a charging station is $16.49 on Amazon... No idea where you're getting $65.00 from.

An official Xbox One Play and Charge Kit is $24.99, and that only comes with one battery... Another one will cost you $15.95 refurbished.

So that's $16.49 vs $40.94... and they'll last longer... and you never have to plug into the console... and you can use the batteries for anything that takes AA. So yeah, it would save you money and time.

u/CivilC · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I'll play devil's advocate for the use of AA batteries controllers in current year (I have the powerA GameCube controller).

You can always use rechargeable ones; Panasonic Eneloops have been great for me so far for $20 USD. They have a long lasting charge and it took me a good three weeks of intermittent smash Bros play to drain them completely.

It's awesome to be continuously wireless. When your current pair die, Chuck two fresh ones in and keep going. Recharge your old ones when you get home.

I'm a diy person, but it's nice knowing I wont have to open my controller up to replace the battery, too.

Tbh I would rather have a standard rechargeable controller, but I don't think you should let the battery issue dissuade you from purchasing one you like.

u/zilfondel · 1 pointr/oculus

Op, here you go:


Eneloops AA w/ charger $17.99


Your welcome.

u/10eazye · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/azurakite · 1 pointr/xboxone

Here is a link to the eneloop batteries. I use them myself and they work well with my controller.

u/silvernutter · 1 pointr/GameboyAdvance

I personally just use eneloop rechargeable batteries. They keep their charge for a long time and are reasonably priced.

u/Big4Vlad · 1 pointr/xboxone

It's a bit more expensive, but do yourself a favor and buy some rechargeable batteries. It will change your life forever.

u/abdullahcfix · 1 pointr/cassetteculture

Hey man, I meant to reply to you earlier, but I was going to work.
The issue you described is similar to an issue I had just over a year ago, except it was an el cheapo Walkman FX-28 but nonetheless, it could help. Read my post and listen to my sample audio. Skip around to near the end for more distortion. I eventually figured out that every battery I was putting in there was drained. I know it sounds stupid and insults your intelligence a bit, but try fresh alkaline batteries. None of that cheap Sunbeam or dollar store blue Panasonic bullshit. I'm talking straight Duracell and Energizer. Even better though, Panasonic Eneloops Best rechargeable batteries on Planet Earth period. Plus IIRC, your Walkman uses 4 batteries and this pack comes with 4 precharged batteries as well as a simple, yet effective charger.

Now, I also happened to disassemble my Walkman at the same time as when I changed my batteries to fresh ones. It may have been that I freed something, possibly the belt, that may have been previously stuck or grinding somewhere causing my issue. I know your issue isn't speed, but I had distortion as well.

Your issue might also be most likely due to your dirty volume potentiometer. Get some DeoxIT and spray that bitch and rock it back and forth. I forget the right kind to use, but luckily, I made a post on asking exactly that question. Read the long reply and you'll know what to use.

90%, this is your solution right here, provided your batteries are fresh and nothing else is horribly wrong with your Walkman. I read that the D6 and D6C have problems with grease turning to glue and it's pretty common. That can cause at best, some wow and flutter and at worst, tape eating or refusing to work at all. You should look at getting it fixed by the guy in Slovakia who goes by Dr. Walkman, mihokm, or Marian. He does excellent work on restoring these things.

Hope this helps.

Not paid by Panasonic, just my honest opinion.

u/gj80 · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I ordered this and it hasn't burned my house down yet.

u/Starinco · 1 pointr/Nerf
u/LukeLC · 1 pointr/oculus

Complete list of items in my kit:

u/redfiftyfive · 1 pointr/Roku
u/NDubbaYa · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Before anything else, rechargeable batteries.

Got these. Comes with batteries and the charger and seem cheap enough.

After that? Play with it for at least a month and consider how comfy you feel with the headset on. If it's uncomfortable, you might wanna consider doing a frankenquest thing and buy the Vive deluxe audio strap. They're starting to get hard to find though.

u/stabarz · 1 pointr/Gameboy

The 2550 mAh ones are the "pro", and have higher capacity but apparently fewer charge cycles. Up to you.

These are the ones I got and they've been good for me. I use them in my IPS GBA and my Wavebird.

u/BeerBaronRalph · 1 pointr/xboxone

I just need someone to tell me the absolute best ones to buy. I've read a lot of reviews in the past hour, and have narrowed it down to:


Or a different one entirely? I'm super excited to try these out, especially since my play and charge kit occasionally works really well, and sometimes not at all.

u/danny0wnz · 1 pointr/xboxone

May be what you're looking for. Purchased two myself and they work like a charm. Amazing reliability and simplicity. Pretty well priced too for about 30% cheaper than a play and charge and could effectively run two controllers.

Edit: can also be used to charge AAA batteries in the same charger as long as they are the appropriate type.

u/worklag · 1 pointr/xboxone

The set I purchased.

My only complaint is that when the xbox says low battery it usually means the controller will shut off in about 5-10 minutes. Other than that, I've had no issues with them and they last a week or a bit longer with my game play

u/firstconsul · 1 pointr/Games

this is the kit i got

a bit pricey honestly but it was worth it, and the amazon basics ones work with it too. I decided to buy rechargeable battiers cause the xbox ones sucked and kept losing charge, I was spending more time charging them than playing so I decided to just take up someones recommendation on r/Xboxone

u/SnarkyUsernamed · 1 pointr/Baofeng

While not an eliminator, this instructable shows how to add a micro USB charging circuit to a UV-5r.

Or you could always just replace the car plug end of the eliminator with a 6mm barrel and run it off of one of those 5v/12v hybrid power banks

u/craftyrafter · 1 pointr/motorcycles

From their website:

>Is there a battery pack that can be used instead of hard-wiring the harness to the motorcycle battery?
>There are several 12v battery pack options that can be purchased separately that will work with the ACH-1 connectors such as this option from Talentcell. Please read the specifications carefully and be sure to use a battery pack that does not exceed 13v and works with the ACH-1 connectors. The length of time these batteries will power the helmet in AC mode will vary, but you can expect the following approximate times:
>3000mAh battery should power the helmet for around 2 hours
>6000mAh battery should power it for 4 hours
>12000mAh should work for 6 hours.

Given the sizes and capacities of the modern lithium batteries, it should be possible to build one with a built in battery.

u/NeedPass · 1 pointr/gadgets

Hi, check this out.

u/Jroc0 · 1 pointr/Dashcam

Yes it is a for a Blacksys Ch-100b. The reason I was asking is because I am interested in wiring a 12v power bank to my dash cam. For example something like this, and I wasn't sure if I could connect the power bank directly with a 12v DC cable, or if I needed to splice that cable to include those fuses in between. Looks like I should include the fuses in between right?

Here is a diagram of how I plan to connect everything together. Does this look right?

u/snkns · 1 pointr/homesecurity

Depends how much local storage you want, as well as fps/resolution.

I think an easy/cheap solution would be a Wyze Cam with a little battery bank that has a 5v output to use instead of the charger as a UPS, like this one. That'd give you upwards of 12 hours uptime when the power goes out.

Wyze advertises max capacity SD card as 32GB which will only give you 2-3 days of HD video storage, but there are plenty of reports of using a 64GB or 128GB formatted to exFAT. If you do supply your own larger SD card, just make sure you format it with a tool designed specifically for formatting SD cards.

u/droederd · 1 pointr/synthesizers

It looks like Grandmother requires 12V, 2A, DC

So, you want a lithium ion battery pack that outputs 12V and 2 amps or more.

^ that one is 6000mAh, so it’ll power Grandmother for something close to 3 hours. You can buy heavier batteries that have more capacity if you want. Be sure to check if your Moog requires center positive power (likely) or center negative. That’ll be indicated on your power supply.

Just remember we are random people on the internet, and this could void your warranty :)

u/Chillswitch_Engage · 1 pointr/festivals

To piggy back off this, a cheaper solution might be to just buy a 12v portable battery pack and car port adapter to charge it, though a jump start battery and solar panels are definitely solid investments if you don't mind spending a bit more.

u/goldspider79 · 1 pointr/telescopes

Yeah I've looked very carefully at those cheaper options as well, and wonder if this lower-capacity one (6000mAh @ 12v) would be enough to power a mount and a USB cooling fan.

u/alyasy · 1 pointr/electricians

Why not just use a 12V rechargeable battery pack? Converting DC voltages can be done efficiently, but I'd be surprised if a $10 device was designed with efficiency in mind. Further, connecting devices in parallel to increase current supply is usually a tricky proposition.

u/42Fab_com · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

It's been suggested, but the 5" Raspberry Pi screen would work, but has a resolution of 800x480. Another advantage is it can be powered by a USB battery bank via the micro USB.

Personally I'd go with something like this 7" 1024x600 and power it via a 12v/5v power bank and you'd be in it for $95, but that's because I'd like a slightly larger image.

When I used to install security cameras I used a Photography external output as it has an included battery and is pretty simple.

u/CaronteGF · 1 pointr/oculus

Sure. I'm talking about this kind of battery:

12000mAh it's about 3x a normal battery. The problem is: You need a converter from V-Bat to your laptopcharger. But it shouldn't be a great issue, i assume it is not hard to adap V-Bat to any kind of connector. You already can found a lot of it:

u/YoPlugarts · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

The best flashlight I have ever owned is my Surefire Guardian M6LT. At $400 it is also the most expensive flashlight I've ever owned. This is a searchlight/spotlight with an incredible throw. I live on the side of a mountain and have lit up bears and coyotes with it from around 75 yards away. I can point it at trees across the (short) valley here and see them light up. At 300 yards I can see the light reflecting off metal bits from light poles. Occasionally I'll point it straight up into the sky just to enjoy the beam, and allow neighbors to do the same. It is a remarkable piece of gear that I expect will last me a lifetime. My (now ex-) girlfriend once asked to borrow it to take camping and I said no. It is simply too expensive and powerful to leave in less capable or responsible hands. In my defense, I offered her my smaller E2E Executive but she was still pretty irritated.

Surefire CR123A batteries are expensive, near $2/ea, but you can use the Tenergy brand to bring them down to about $1.12/ea. The M6LT takes six of these batteries and has a runtime of 3 hours at a rated 900 lumens. The output is constant, not variable. If you want variable output, I would suggest the M3LT ($430) or the UB3T ($550). For me it came down to the form-factor and already having a lower-output flashlight for lesser duties. This is a searchlight and you would go blind trying to look at something lit up from only five feet away.

Here's a video showing the throw, here's a video of unboxing and comparison between M6LT and M3LT, and here's an M6LT video with music to get you pumped.

I also purchased a GizzMoVest case for it some months ago so I could attach it to my belt for hands-free carrying while hiking. It's worked out wonderfully.

u/esseffgee · 1 pointr/flashlight

Not rechargeable, but I've been running these in pretty much all of my torches for over a year and a half, with no complaints.

Price comes out to just over a buck per. I've not gotten any duds, and still have almost half the box to go.

u/bkayh685 · 1 pointr/Survival

Me and a buddy split the cost of these, so it came out to $1 each.

u/Yes_That_Guy · 1 pointr/ProtectAndServe

Love my Surefire, I use these and they work just as well as the brand name batteries and for a fraction of the price.

12 pack

40 pack

u/rakista · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

Fog and Rain, PDX baby.

I was buying a 40 pack of CR123's every 2 months when they were 50-60 bucks.

They don't make my light anymore but this is close with a much narrower beam angle.

u/drewlb · 1 pointr/flashlight

How much did you pay for them? Cheapest I've seen is $6/battery for a brand that I'd trust. I've got 4 cameras so at $6 that is $96 to go rechargable. (Plus probably another $24 to have a set to swap in so I can have 5 sets of batteries for 4 cameras) I've bought these tenergy 40 pack for $44 on amazon and that should last me at least a year. When I run out of these I'm definitely going to have to consider rechargeables again (I hate the waste as well).

u/TangledToad · 1 pointr/cbradio

Thanks for the info(im kind of new to CB so I wanted to ask and see if this kinda of set up would work).Now that you mention dipoles,I was think about getting either the indoor firestik or this[ ],lets say I get the dipole from the link,would I have to set it up with a mast(s) or could I kinda just run it around the perimiter of my house's roof(kinda hugging it)for ease of setup(it also looks pretty low profile so I kinda thought it was a good idea)

(also can i use this for plugging one of these handhelds to the wall?

u/anenji_neer · 1 pointr/arduino

12 volt, max 350mA. Could i wire them in parallel to a 12V 1A supply like this one ?

u/WickedWoodworks · 1 pointr/electrical

Something like this will be what you need.

Input voltage will obviously be 120v you need the output to be 9-12vdc I believe is the working range of most LED strips. 12v most common. Output amperage for a 12" strip should not exceed 1A. As long as you cover those bases you should be good. If you get the stuff I'm more than happy to help build you a wiring diagram for a switch if you choose

u/Dissentient · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Something like this, or basically anything that outputs 12V or 9V.

Fans use ~0.1-0.2 A each, and they can be connected in parallel, so a 12V 1A power supply can power 5-10 of those.

As I said, the issue is converting from that circular plug to something, from which you can convert to one of PC connectors, for which there are adapters and splitters. And doing it without accidentally shorting it.

u/AceSG · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

So itll look like this? Imgur

And would this power supply work?

u/SG_1 · 1 pointr/electricians

Thanks to /r/Jim-Jones I found a great product I can use. It was a few amazon suggestions away.

Seco-Larm E-931-S35RRQ Enforcer Indoor/Outdoor Wall Mounted Photoelectric Beam Sensor with 35 Foot Range

and the timer!

Altronix Timer, Multifunction, 12/24VDC

and I can use a 12VDC power supply

[](Amamax Wall Adapter Power Supply - 12VDC 1A)

Thank you everyone for guiding me. I think this will finally work! I'm excited I finally found the correct parts.

u/TheTenshi · 1 pointr/airsoft

From quick look on the end from youtube I imagine a dc wall adapter like this one would work. However this is not a sure fire promise of it working as there are a couple different diameter of dc plugs around.

u/vchizzy · 1 pointr/vinyl

Are we talking about something as simple as this:

Makes me wonder why they don't just include this power supply with the preamp instead of the stock one.

u/euThohl3 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I would recommend you buy this and this.

I have a few big bench supplies, but like 95% of the time, you just need a few hundred milliamps at 3.3 or 5v or whatever. Save your capital funds for an oscilloscope.

Yeah, if you need a ton of power at 3.3/5/12v on the cheap, salvaging power supplies out of computers people leave out for the trash man is a good strategy. But most of the time, that's a bad idea.

u/MustacheEmperor · 1 pointr/electronics

Will this work? Can I just cut the end off and splice it onto the tables wires? How do I figure out which wire to splice to which? (Sorry these are probably idiot tier questions - I've never done this before and I saw you worked in a Sanyo shop)

Also on the off chance this does need to take a/c power, will hooking up a d/c supply cook the motor?

Edit: As a matter of fact, I just took a look through the "old power adapters" box at work and found two. One is 120v ac to 12v ac - would that work or will the extra four volts cook the table? I also found a 120v ac to 12v DC adapter which I think is pretty much what you describing earlier. Pictures:

u/coy_and_vance · 1 pointr/gopro

I have a Hero3, but should be similar enough to yours.
I get about an hour on a full charge.
I mainly shoot 1080. Not sure is 720 will affect battery life. Probably not.
Not sure about 60 vs 30. Google it.
I have 3 batteries and change them out every hour. You can get 2 batteries and a wall outlet charger from Wasabi on Amazon for $20. Make sure it is compatible with your model.
Hope this helps.

u/hyzerflip3 · 1 pointr/gopro

Have you tried using an external charger to charge the battery? Like this:

u/al_kohalik · 1 pointr/gopro

i probably average an hour and a half for battery life. get these and be safe.

u/SickerThanASneeze · 1 pointr/videography
u/TheOnlyQueso · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

You need the battery wall AC adapter. They'res one on Amazon for $16

u/Dekkster · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

Gonna be trying this with:
Definitely seems like the way to go! thanks!

u/shepppard · 1 pointr/electronics

so I have one of these. and I just bought one of these. The camera doesnt last long on it's own batteries and I'm trying to power it to do a good 12 hour time lapse for a project I'm working on for a show. The anker battery should be able to run the Sony camera for that long but I'm trying to be good with my cable management and keep my connector cable length nice and shorter. I have Deans connectors for all my drone shit but I power some lights and other things off of my Anker batteries so I would rather standardize with that. Any ways... Also just want to make some DC cables as well and mod other things to work with the battery but I find that all the female connectors are flimsy and shitty but I did find a guy who had nickle plated female connectors and they where great.

Any ways thanks for the help

u/BillNyeDeGrasseTyson · 1 pointr/gopro

I just got a Transcend 45MB/sec 64GB SD card on Amazon for $39.

You can get 2 batteries with a charger by Wasabi for $23.

Here's the chesty for $8

u/deniskoch · 1 pointr/gopro

I went for both, the Bacpac and the spare battery just because I could and because of the advantages of having each. I'll go through what I like about each of them and what I find them both to be useful for, hopefully that'll help you.

The Bacpac to me has been very good because it doesn't add a lot of bulk to the GoPro but does manage to extend the battery life by quite a bit. I can't give you any numbers, but I've done half a day of snowboarding with one fully charged battery and Bacpac as a reference. What's also nice about the Bacpac is that if you use the Skeleton Backdoor for it you have access to the MicroUSB charging port on it, so you can charge it while in use; I use this when I'm in a car (on the racetrack or on roadtrips) to be able to film continuously. So far this has somewhat replaced the Frame Housing as it allows me to charge the camera.

As for the spare batteries, I went with the Wasabi Power option as it is very cheap, gives you two batteries equivalent in quality to the GoPro batteries and comes with a charger for both power outlets and cars. If I were to only use my GoPro for outdoor activities I have to say I'd probably go for that option as changing batteries is very swift and three fully charged batteries usually last the whole day for me.

Hope this helped and if you have any further questions, don't hesitate to ask!

u/spyder93090 · 1 pointr/gopro

Yeah, that's about the first thing I noticed as well.

But realistically speaking, I don't know how much power you can cram into such a small package; especially with such powerful recording capabilities (i.e. 1080p at 60p)

Sucks even worse with the WiFi on. I haven't really done a maxed out test but after like 1.5 to 2 hours of nominal use (i.e. pulling it out once every 5 or 10 minutes for a 2 to 3 minute recording) will get me down to the last battery bar. GoPro states 1 to 1.5 hours on their website depending on which settings you're using.

I would say <1hr. is a little exaggerated though, in which case, I would try to get an exchange from wherever you got it from to see if you just got a faulty battery. Also, of course, try updating the firmware.

I am thinking about picking up the Wasabi Battery Pack from Amazon for $24.

u/mekranil · 1 pointr/gopro

I saw someone else mentioned it, but here is the link to the cheap battery/charger combo:

It comes with a wall charger, 2 batteries, and a car adapter to use the wall charger in your car. All for around 25 bucks, whereas 1 gopro battery is 20.

u/Call_me_John · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have five batteries. I stop every now and then for a smoke or a soda, so it's no trouble exchanging the battery while i'm there.

But there are other ways. This guy builds a charger that doesn't modify the waterproof case, and instead of hooking it up to a 12V socket on your bike, you could connect it to one of those portable USB chargers (they reach 20000mAh now, maybe even more). That should extend its life considerably, you're more likely to run out of space on the memory card than out of power.

I wouldn't recommend the BacPac.. I spent less on my four extra batteries (plus charger) than I would have for a BacPac, which theoretically doubles your recording time. They're off brand, of course, but have had no issues with them the past year, and seem to last at least as much as the original (2 are 1600mAh, they definitely last longer by 10-15 minutes).

Search or, there are plenty of options. Or you could go for something more tried and tested, such as the Wasabis.

u/Tibincrunch · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I have the Hero3 black and it works great. I record at 720p 60fps wide and get around 40 minutes per battery. Obviously there are some improvements with the later models but if you're mainly looking to record while riding for insurance/dashcam purposes the Hero 3 will work just fine. If you are interested in making high quality videos or using the camera elsewhere then I would maybe consider the Hero3+ or waiting for the Hero4.

The curved sticky mount that came with works great on the top of my helmet. I'm not sure how to mount on the chin, sorry. As long as your mount is secure the video will be nice and smooth.

I would highly recommend picking this bundle from Amazon - includes 2 batteries and a wall charger:

If you have any other questions let me know.

u/UndeadCaesar · 1 pointr/gopro

In my opinion I'd skip the chest mount and get a telescoping mount, like this one. You'll be able to get cool looking selfies without looking like a complete ass and you can make some interesting shots (over walls, off the edge of buildings, etc.) with the pole at full length. And when you're just doing normal-er handheld stuff you can just reel the pole in to minimum length and use it as a palm grip.

Edit: Also get one of these because it's the best accessory deal there is. Two batteries and a wall charger for $24.

Edit 2: Also unless you're really strapped for cash the black version is weeeellll worth it over the silver. The amount of increased control and shooting modes you have over the Silver will last forever and you only have to pay for it once :). If you hunt around you can usually find some kind of online coupon that brings the price down, I know REI does a 20% off single item coupon every 6 months or so that can save you a bundle on pricier items.

u/carsgobeepbeep · 1 pointr/scuba

Get extras, they're cheap!

I carry three batteries for my 3+ Silver but have found that two is actually enough for 5 dives a day. I change them at the same time I change my memory card, which is typically during a long surface interval or over lunch. No big deal! (note, not for the GoPro 4 apparently)

u/jamierosevideo · 1 pointr/gopro

Just buy extra batteries, third party ones are pretty decent and cheap.

i bought these and they work fine. Yeah they do drain fast but that happens with every model. good luck!

u/mmcnama4 · 1 pointr/gopro

Thanks for these tips. I have two extra batteries and they are an awesome addition, makes life a bit easier.

u/masterbatts · 1 pointr/gopro

I brought 3 batteries, including the original GoPro battery. I bought this and used a solar charger as a backup but ended up not needing it at all. I got the solar charger for $50 at Lowe's, surprisingly.

EDIT: I also only brought the 3-way mount and chest mount. It worked perfectly. Wish I'd brought the headmount; sparpole climbing would've been pretty cool.
Tip: learn how to use the camera and how you want to be able to edit the footage when you're done. I moreso learned how to use the camera on this trip.

u/gmanji212 · 1 pointr/gopro

I bought mine from amazon here:

not sure if it's the same link you're using...
but i also signed up for a month free trial with amazon prime as they give you one free 1-day delivery with the trial, you can then stop it from auto-renewing onto a paying contract immediately. worked a treat, arrived within two days!

u/ProjectBomb · 1 pointr/gopro

Bought this a few months for my Hero 3+. Works great and the charger is awesome for both the wall and car.

u/Mightysun99 · 1 pointr/gopro

External as in Backpack?
If you looking for battery's id go with Wasabi

u/clintswift · 1 pointr/gopro

The Altatac store on eBay has the Hero 3+ Black w/remote on sale for $350 periodically. I got mine from them and its a 100% genuine unit.

Quality memory cards are the must have accessory. I use all Sandisk Ultra/Extreme cards. Be careful where you buy these from, lots of knockoffs online. The couple geniune GoPro accessories you'll want to buy are the Suction Cup and Chest Mount. The chest rig will also get you pretty good hiking footage.

As for batteries, I put in an order for the Wasabi Power 2 Pack they have on Amazon. Pretty good reviews, mine are coming in this week.

Like other users said, the app is sufficient for setting up shots and adjusting settings. I use the Android app and don't own the LCD back.

u/nitrofan111 · 1 pointr/Spearfishing

I fully Recommend this kit, They last pretty much as long as the OEM GoPro batteries (about 5-10 min less depending).

ninja edit= some math I had wrong so I redacted a statement.

u/TalonX273 · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Panasonic eneloops. They last about 5-7hrs of active use and take about 6-8hrs to charge. The 4 AA with charger set is enough, but additional batteries are nice to have anyway.

u/secretlyloaded · 1 pointr/asksandiego

Yep, any bike shop will have a selection of headlights for bicycles. They clamp on the handlebars, generally. The cheaper ones are powered with AA batteries and some have a rechargeable battery pack. If you go with the AAs, it'll be worth investing in Eneloop rechargeable batteries.

If you have a basket on the front of your bike, it may obscure the light. Some people will ziptie a short piece of PVC to the front of the basket and then mount the light to that. Minoura also makes a basket clamp but they're hard to find in the US for some reason.

When I ride at night I use two headlights - an AA powered one that flashes, and this thing which uses a rechargeable battery back. It's insanely bright.

I haven't ridden through Logan Heights recently but my recollection is that it's pretty bikeable and downtown is an easy ride from there.

u/Captain_Midnight · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you get a pack of rechargeable batteries and a decently quick charger, then you won't need to buy non-rechargeable batteries repeatedly. Panasonic Eneloops have a reputation for high quality (they handle a high number of recharges with a minimal loss of charge capacity over time), and that package bundles the charger as well. I haven't found an AAA-sized package with the charger -- those have to be purchased separately). The charger works with both AA and AAA batteries.

u/lokbok · 1 pointr/mflb

You can get another one from Magic-Flight for $15. Personally, I'd just purchase one of those Eneloop sets that come with 4 batteries and a 4 battery charger. Those allow you to independently charge 4 batteries at once and the chargers themselves are actually highly rated by this Amazon reviewer (NLee Engineer or something) who specializes in battery chargers.

I have at least 2 or 3 extra Magic Flight chargers I'm not using. I can look for em and send em your way but don't hold your breath on that. They're all still packed somewhere in a box I've had stored away since moving.

u/kb3pxr · 1 pointr/flashlight

I'm going to stay on the sidelines on the light recommendation, but I do have a charger/battery recommendation for AA. This Panasonic Package with 4 AA Eneloop cells and the charger are very good. You get the good Eneloop cells and a good charger. While the charger will take about 7 hours if the cell is fully discharged, that means it is a good charge rate.

u/Darkcheops · 1 pointr/emulation

I haven't used anything besides the 360 controller with my PC so I can't recommend something better. Although I can say the D-pad leaves a lot to be desired.

I have found these to be far more reliable than the 360 battery packs and you can use them in other things besides just your controllers.

u/cubeenigma · 1 pointr/wiiu

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger with eneloop AA New 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack, White

Have these for my Wii notes and Xbox one controllers. Holds their charge even while not in use (slowly loses over time but not as extreme as standard rechargeables) And they come charged!

u/emtilt · 1 pointr/wiiu

Normal rechargeable batteries are the easiest solution. There are tons of cheap battery+charger packs out there. Just pick one up next time you're out at a store, or get something like this on amazon:

u/DarthOctane · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

If this is the one it is showing you then yes it should work.

Also keep in mind you will need a USB 3.0 cable and HDMI Cable. I wouldn't go longer than 6 feet although I know some people have had luck with 10. Also a small bonus the Vive Link Box has Bluetooth in it. I have not validated that as I have the O+ and it has bluetooth built into the headset for the controllers. I have read other people have use the BT in the Link box fine however.

u/Reddituser703 · 1 pointr/oculus

HTC Vive Link Box

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power Supply Adapter Switching for Cameras DVR NVR LED Light Strip DC3.5*1.35mm UL listed FCC

UGREEN USB 3.0 A to A Cable Type A Male to Male Cable Cord for Data Transfer Hard Drive Enclosures, Printers, Modems, Cameras (6FT)

And it still needs a hdmi cord. Note, the USB cord is a Male to male cord

u/korelabs · 1 pointr/oculus

Either a PCI usb 3 card, or a vive link box would remedy this.


If you go the link box route, it comes w/o the AC adapter and HDMI cable, you'll need to pick both of those up as well, amazon has all three, it's like a 50.00 purchase all said.


This also gives the added benefits of

- extendable headset range.

- you can use DP (mini on the box) instead of HDMI if you so desire.

- if you have a laptop with a decent enough card, you can now use your rift on the go.

- USB port powered from the wall, no more load on the PC.

- it comes with a really good adhesive pad, so you can remotely locate your headset ports to say, under the front corner edge of your desk, or the side of your case, or any flat surface you think it'd be cool to have a relocated USB and HDMI port.

- the above pro also means you no longer have to leave the HMD plugged in at all times, you can just pop it out when not in use, and never have to dive behind a case again.


The ac adapter you will need is this one.

The USB cable can be anything as long as it is "A to A male to male". I picked one of these up. (two 6 foot cables, one for my LAN party bag, one for home.)


Any HDMI cable will work.


u/ViciousMoth · 1 pointr/Vive

Thanks for letting me and thanks for the update. I was able to find a 3.5mm on Amazon. It even has a review from a Vive owner who uses it for his breakout box, so that's great! It doesn't fit perfect, they said "This metal plug is ever so slightly longer than the OEM cable's, but the important thing is the width, so I don't care." So this is probably as close as we'll get, I'm not able to find anything better.

Leaving the link for others that run into this thread:

u/Thefigus · 1 pointr/oculus

This is the one I bought, works perfect with my Link Box. Not sure if you can get it in Canada.

u/jasondcannon · 1 pointr/Vive

Interesting. I guess it's just acting as an HDMI/USB repeater. Hopefully someone with more experience can comment. It looks like this AC adapter can be used.

u/FumbledAgain · 1 pointr/Vive

I think they're priced relatively reasonably, with the exception of the Link Box. The base stations seem overpriced until you consider just how much R&D went into them. Consider further that Valve and HTC have promised support of third-party controllers and HMDs, and you're left with a scenario that the base stations are the only thing left that you have to buy from Valve, so it's fair to make a bit of profit on that.

The link boxes, however, aren't fairly priced. It's just a link box. It doesn't come with a male-to-male USB cable (something most folks don't have lying around), nor an HDMI cable (more common) or a power adapter (no one will have this!). You can't even buy it from HTC separately; you have to order one from Amazon. Considering that this and the other cables add $15-$20 more, and you have to source them separately, I think the link box is a bit of a rip-off.

I bought it anyway, of course, along with the cables and a pair of extra pair of base stations so that I can keep one set up at home and one in my studio. But it definitely sucked.

u/PumkinSpiceTrukNuts · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I am using a vive linkbox for both my Rift and O+ (and Explorer) and it works great. In fact the USB going into the linkbox is a daisy-chain of non-active 3.0 cables plugged into each other to make it long enough to reach the top of the shelf it's stuck to. You do need a power adapter but don't need to buy the $20 one amazon suggests. I use this one. I have noticed that I have to unplug the Rift sensors while using the Odyssey or I get constant connects/disconnects of USB devices (doesn't seem to be the O+ disconnecting as I don't get any glitching while playing, but it's annoying to hear).

u/atticus_red · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7

Thanks for the details. Based off the model you gave, I found this. Reviewers say they're using it with the G7.

u/YAOMTC · 1 pointr/videography

I think I'll go for this one instead, since it's eligible for the $49 free shipping.

u/jopasm · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7

You need a dummy battery and AC adapter to per it from the wall. I haven't used this one, so this isn't a recommendation, just an example:

You will need something similar for the G85 or GH4. One announce is, unlike a camcorder or proper ENG type camera the DSLR style cameras can only get per from one source at a time. I use a camcorder for event videography that's plugged into the wall and has a battery mounted, if somebody unplugs the power it'll switch to battery automatically. Not a deal killer, just be aware that you can't use a battery and be plugged in to the wall at the same time.

u/amerifolklegend · 1 pointr/Lumix

Gotcha. Yeah, it really sounds like the AC adapter would be the way to go here. They’re only like twenty bucks and they really save you a lot on batteries - or at least saves you time switching the batteries. I use mine for product shots. I can leave the camera on all day and just snap a photo whoever I have the next product staged for the shot. Super handy.

Edit: this is the one I bought a couple years ago. I’ve never had an issue with it.

u/Rex_Lee · 1 pointr/bmpcc

I got one of these and it was a game changer for my BMPCC -


You could probably mount this on the gimbal handle and just run the cable to the camera, probably solve your problem in one go.

u/HusamSabaa · 1 pointr/bmpcc

I know some people use a Sony battery plate that they'll attach to their top handle or something. (I've attached a Canadian link, I'm sure you'd find more on US eBay or Amazon. The search term I used was Sony NPF battery adapter BMPCC.)

u/goatmemer · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7

Powerextra 2 Pack Battery and Charger Compatible with Panasonic DMW-BLC12, DMW-BLC12E, DMW-BLC12PP and Panasonic Lumix DMC-G85, DMC-FZ200, DMC-FZ1000, DMC-G5, DMC-G6, DMC-G7, DMC-GH2, DMC-GX8

I bought these ones a while back and they are great. I don’t notice much of a difference when it comes to battery life between these and the original battery.

u/Live_As_Panda · 1 pointr/photography

Thanks for the quick and informative reply. I think I'll go with [this one] as it mentions the exact battery model and comes with 2 other batteries, and it has good reviews. Thank you for the help :)

u/DontPressAltF4 · 1 pointr/Cameras

Does that include everything, like you need audio equipment to fit the $1k budget too?

Assuming that's the case, here's what I would buy...

The Panasonic G7 camera kit, the Rode Filmmaker wireless mic kit, and the Rode VideoMicro. Grab some spare batteries for the camera while you're at it. Rechargeable batteries for the mic are also a good idea.

That's the best video kit you can get on that budget right now.

The G7 is a great camera, easily the best 4k video for the money, and you absolutely have to have the audio gear for interviews, and good video in general.

Use the wireless mic for interviews, and the VideoMicro for b-roll and everything else.

Also, fyi, the a7 doesn't do 4k video anyway.

u/Way2go3 · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

There are tons of discussion on this topic here, dp review forums, YouTube etc

Based on my experience I would recommend Wassbi batteries ( two batteries with charger). Been using it for almost 2 years now without any issues. Costs around 25$

Recently a friend of mine bought Rav Power dual battery pack. Which is said to be excellent

Check out these and the Amazon reviews of these

  1. Wassabi

  2. Ravpower
u/Blargmode · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

If you don't already have extra batteries, I use these for my A6000. I really recommend them.

Only complaint is the status lights, if you're colorblind. There's one for each battery compartment and it's green or red depending on status, allegedly.

u/CinnabarPekoe · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

I'm in Ontario and I've had no problems getting Wasabi or Ravpower batteries shipped from amazon in the past two months.

u/DrImpeccable76 · 1 pointr/Cameras

The other option for the a6000 is the 18-200mm. It gets you almost the zoom range as those two lenses separately. Its bulkier than the 16-55mm (which is the range you'd probably use for everything except for wildlife photography or doing sports or something), but could be a good option (If you are willing to buy used or stretch your budget)

pair it with a used a6000

and a couple extra batteries with a USB charger

I personally don't really have a problem with 2 lenses (I just carry the extra in my daypack or larger jacket pocket while traveling if I think I need a second one with more zoom), but I can certainly understand how one is appealing.

u/noun_exchanger · 1 pointr/electrical

not sure how much money you're willing to spend, but i would probably get a rechargeable high capacity lithium ion type battery for maximum time. something like this. you might get 3 hours out of that instead of 30 min from the 9V.

but if you only expect to use this thing once of twice, maybe getting a pack of 9Vs and changing them out every 30 min is more economical to you.

and you might end up spending similar amounts of money on getting one-time use C cell batteries. you would need 6 C-cells (1.5V each) in series to get 9V.

u/pumaireland · 1 pointr/discgolf

Here is the battery I used

My friend built it, so not sure the process, but he soldered the wires together and placed in plexiglass

u/grahamvinyl · 1 pointr/gifs We only used it for a short while because of her age, but I've heard reports from others that they kept going strong after 5-6+hrs.

u/AREAYEDOUBLEYOU · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

Borrow the money (~$150) and get This + This

Lasts atleast 3.5 hours, I had a shoot recently and used one battery all day (I have two).

u/DrakeSucks · 1 pointr/bmpcc

Juicebox Battery for Blackmagic...

Juicebox Blackmagic Pocket Cinema...

CAMVATE Super Clamp with 1/4"-20...

You’ll need a pretty solid clamp and this one works well, but the part you use to tighten it slides back and forth, but it hasn’t affected my gimbal use.

u/LandlordTiberius · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Im using these for two PI 3’s at a time, no issues, 2.4a per per port

Anker version has a deal for two

u/Blue2501 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I found these chargers in particular will charge the DS4 controller nicely. I have one by my couch with a 6' MicroUSB cable and I just plug the controller in at the couch and keep on playing when I need to charge.

IDK about other chargers, but that's the only one that I own that will definitely charge PS4 pads. My fancier powerport bricks won't charge the pad at all.

u/4techteachers · 1 pointr/bmpcc

Hey... not too much to ask at all -


Here are the links to the battery mount and cable I am using. Here is the one similar on Amazon that has the correct cable attached but this is not the setup I have.


Here is the smallrig mount that is on the Crane 2 that my battery mount is attached to.


I have also mounted this SSD case directly on the crane 2 under the camera and it works perfectly since the ssd and crane move together so you can use a short USB-C cable.


Hopefully that helps. Good luck setting your up. I'm loving it!

u/thegingerlord · 1 pointr/bmpcc

Here is the Amazon link. $45. I'm linking this via my phone so hopefully it works. Runshuangyu Movie Blackmagic...

u/BeavisBob · 0 pointsr/xboxone

Look up Eneloop AA batteries and chargers. A friend suggested I try them for my controller and I love them. I started off with a 4 pack and charger for under $17 ( and have added more batteries to my collection because I use them in remotes, camera flashes and everything else. They hold a charge better than the official MS Charge and Play pack and I haven't had one fail yet.

u/Darkmaster2110 · 0 pointsr/xboxone

What kind of batteries are you using? I've had the same batteries since I got my XB1 in 2014 and they still last about a day and a half to 2 days worth of play for me. I leave my controller on a lot of the day since I use my Xbox just to talk to friends a lot without actually playing anything, so my controller is on at least like 5+ hours a day usually.

I just bought a couple sets and I rotate between them. I use Eneloops. More specifically, I have this. I've read that the charger can make a difference sometimes. I went with the official one and have had no issues. It charges them at the right rate and it stops charging completely when they're done so they don't over charge.

u/AegisToast · -1 pointsr/xboxone

They last me as long as normal batteries, and I've had the same Eneloops for over 4 years. They still work as well as when I first got them.

Tip to those shopping for them: get a charger that charges individually, and based on charge levels. Some charge based on a timer, and some charge all of the batteries as a group, both of which can damage batteries over time.

I think this is actually the charger I got. Inexpensive and it works beautifully.

u/TheAntman217 · -1 pointsr/pics

Or you can use these? Cheaper than Apple's lighting cable and recyclable.