Best camera flash accessories according to redditors

We found 777 Reddit comments discussing the best camera flash accessories. We ranked the 277 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Camera flash adapter rings
Camera flash battery packs
Camera flash brackets
Camera flash synch cords
Camera flash shoe mounts
Camera flash light diffusers

Top Reddit comments about Camera Flash Accessories:

u/edinc90 · 72 pointsr/videography
u/ItsMeEntropy · 15 pointsr/photography
u/AngryAnuses · 14 pointsr/gopro

I bought this light and put it on this bracket. The GoPro is attached with a tripod mount. I had to file part of the mounting piece on the light to make it fit on the bracket.

u/inkista · 14 pointsr/AskPhotography

>Should I just buy whatever is basic/cheapest? Or should I rather buy something that's pretty solid that can continue helping me when I advance?

Depends on your budget, and what you plan to do. But generally speaking, going super-cheap tends not to work out all that well. I'd recommend avoiding any sub-$100 flashes for your first speedlight. See this stackexchange Q&A on what flash features to look for and why you might want them.

>Basic lighting stand - I'd like one that's pretty sturdy. Would an amazon basic one suffice? or should I go for something else.

With lighting stands, as with tripods, you're going to be concerned with how much weight they can hold, how high they go, and how stable they are. Be aware, that lighting stands can be used for multiple purposes, not just holding the light (e.g., background stands). And in the future, you may want to dump something bigger than a speedlight onto one. Not saying you want to start with a C-stand, but a monolight probably needs something more substantial than a compact 7' lightstand that's perfectly fine for a speedlight.

Also, typical lighting, if you're, say, trying to duplicate something similar to sunlight, may have to be higher than your subjects. That's why a 6' lightstand may not be sufficient.

I'd also say look at whether or not the stand is air cushioned. But I've slammed my speedlights down on my fingers enough for that to be an issue. :)

>Bowen's Mount

The mount is a bayonet mount for modifiers on studio strobes. Speedlights typically have to be paired with a bracket in order to use a bowens mount modifier.

>Bowens mount softbox - what size should I go for?

Depends on what/how you plan to shoot.

>speed light - Probably most important part of the kit. Do I need one with TTL or high speed sync? I'd like it to just be able to take simple portraits.

This is just me, but everybody skips over learning on-camera flash bouncing when they read the Strobist, without realizing that when Hobby began that blog in 2006, he was aiming it towards other professional photojournalists who'd already hit the limits of on-camera bouncing and knew how to use TTL and speedlights.

So, I would recommend that you put aside thoughts of stands, modifiers, and triggers for now, get a Godox TT685 or V860II that matches your camera brand (so, in your case, $110 TT685-C or $180 V860II-C; both are quite a bit less expensive than a Canon 600EX II-RT), and learn to do on-camera flash, bouncing with TTL and M (Neil van Niekerk's Tangents is awesome for this). It won't take long, but you'll get a sense of how your camera metering works with flash; the elements of flash exposure, and how to balance the flash against the ambient. And more importantly, to pay attention to the quality, intensity, direction, and color of the light, as well as basic ways to control those four factors.

Getting flash exposure, TTL, HSS, etc. under your belt before you start taking a flash off-camera and onto a stand will make learning off-camera flash a whole lot easier than trying to figure out everything all at once.

Also, it's cheaper, faster, and easier to get started if all you have to buy/learn to use is the speedlight. And even after you're doing five-light setups, it's still going to come in handy for event/social shooting, chasing kids around the house, or travelling light. Off-camera flash means packing up a lighting bag to go with your camera bag, and can be a serious hassle.

>Wireless Trigger- Do these come with the speed light?

Some speedlights have radio triggering built in, others don't. Some can be used as transmitters or receivers; some can only be receivers. And some don't have any radio triggering at all, and will require you find add-on units to attach either via a sync port (which a speedlight might or might not have) or the flash foot.

The Godox speedlights I recommended have radio transceivers built-in, and do "dumb" optical slaving. And in the Canon/Nikon/Sony versions, they also do "smart" optical slave or master. And they have sync ports. So you have a lot of choices on how to trigger it. And the Godox system has a lot of expansion options if you decide not to shoot Canon any more, or to expand to bigger lights than speedlights.

The V860II uses a li-on rechargeable battery pack instead of 4xAA batteries. The pack has roughly 3x the capacity of a set of AAs, so if you plan on all-day shooting and need to take, say, a thousand flash images at a time (say, you're shooting a wedding all day long), then they can be awesome. As a hobbyist, I've only ever needed to swap out AAs once on a shoot, so i'm okay with the TT685-C instead.

>US based, so I can order from amazon or just B&H.

B&H sells them as Godox. Adorama (who also are a seller on Amazon) sells them as "Flashpoint R2 TTL" flashes. Both B&H and Adorama will cover the unit for the warranty period; other retailers may not.

[edited for typos and to add in monolight considerations on lightstands].

u/burning1rr · 13 pointsr/photography

I'm very happy with my Godox gear so far. I also considered Yongnuo, but I like Godox' wireless system is a lot better. In fact, I think right now they have one of the best wireless systems on the market.

Basic setup:

A hot-shoe TTL flash is a great place to start. I'd suggest the TT350N for that; it's small and convenient to carry. It's strong enough to light up a dark room, and to overpower ambient lights. If you use it as a bounce flash, you don't really need any other accessories.

I use the TT350 for all the bounce photography. Bounce is very simple and convenient. Its small size is very handy here, because it doesn't throw off the camera balance or really get in the way.

I personally bought the V860II-N as my first speedlight. I realized it was a beast when it arrived; way more flash than I needed on my hot-shoe. Here's a size comparison: http://imgur.com/a/jFpvM

I'm glad I have it though; it's great in multi-point lighting and it's nice to have a more powerful option should I need it.

Off-camera setup:

The next step up from there is to move the flash off-camera. For that, you'll need a stand, a head, and a light modifier.

You can use a tripod, but a light stand is a lot simpler to setup and break-down. To mount a light to the stand, you'll need and either a hot-shoe adapter or the flash foot. The simplest and cheapest modifier is a photography umbrella. You'll need a mount to attach an umbrella to the stand, though most hot-shoe adapters will also hold the umbrella.

I use the Godox S mount adapter and a soft-box. The benefit of the adapter is that it can use other Bowens mount light modifiers if I want to try them in the future. It also holds an umbrella.

You'll also need a way to trigger the flash. You can use your on-board flash for this, but I went with the Godox X1 trigger. This is a radio trigger, and does TTL. It cost $40. A very nice thing about the X1 trigger is that it can control the speedlights remotely; I can change power and other settings from my camera, which cuts down a lot of back-and-forth. It's also a lot more reliable and convenient than using an optical trigger.

Multi-point setup:

The next step after that is multi-point lighting. If you already have a speedlight, radio trigger, etc. All you really need are more flash heads. The nice thing about multi-point lighting is that they don't all need to be the same speedlight. Usually, you use different power levels and modifiers anyway. In my case, I have a big powerful speedlight, and a small portable speedlight. When I'm out and about, I can grab whichever is best for the job.

You can use manual (non-TTL) flashes for multi-point lighting. This is best if you don't intend to use ambient as a light source or don't mind fiddling to balance ambient with the flash. A lot of Godox's manual flashes still have built in wireless support, which makes them a good inexpensive solution.

The sky is the limit:

From there, there's a whole world of lighting. Strobes powerful enough to make the sun look dim, lighting modifiers, etc.

Quick edit: A number of companies resell Godox' products. Flashpoint is the most prolific, but there's also Bolt, Neewer, and a couple others.

u/macdaddyold · 11 pointsr/gopro

Sure, it's pretty straight forward.


I used this L Bracket
to mount this
Gimbal. For lighting up my dark house/living room, this
LED Light works great. It's very bright.

To mount my old iPhone 4s as a monitor, I used a couple of these and a cheap iPhone case.

This produces very stable videos that turn out great for indoor parties, Christmas morning, etc. The WG gimbal mounts easily on my moutain bike or helmet as well, it's very flexible.

u/geekandwife · 10 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20

That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.

Now for a background setup

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC

Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.

Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.

u/Razor512 · 9 pointsr/photography

Hmm in looking into this, it seems that there are USB powered lens warmers on amazon.

A number of them seem to heat to 122f (50C) thus I would recommend getting some perfboard and building up a simple voltage control circuit in order to probably drop the voltage to like 3.5V, or search ebay for a USB fan speed controller (they sell for less than $1.50). Then adjust the voltage until the lens heater can maintain a temperature of probably 80-90f.

https://www.amazon.com/PROTAGE-Condensation-Prevention-Evening-Remover/dp/B073X18JND/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535953885&sr=1-1&keywords=lens+warmer

or this

https://www.amazon.com/COOWOO-Upgraded-Warmer-Universal-Telescopes/dp/B075ZSYJ31/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Since they are designed for colder temperatures, pairing one of those with a USB fan speed controller, e.g., https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Fan-Speed-Controller-DC-4-12V-Reducing-Noise-Multi-stall-Adjustment-Governor/123314897776?hash=item1cb6240370:g:7swAAOSwtE9bdW41

May allow you to achieve just enough warming to counter the AC in the car and not overheat the lens.

Then just have the wrap loosely on the lens or under the camera, and lens,with just enough power to keep it close to the outdoor temperature.

u/shdggsdv · 8 pointsr/photography

Cowboy Studio transmitter and reciever

Thing has lasted me almost a year of hard abuse thus far and freaking never misfires and I've never needed a longer range, surprisingly. I still don't understand why you guys buy those expensive pocket wizards when something cheap like this works so damn well. :p

u/oh_lord · 8 pointsr/photography

One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.

As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.

If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.

Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.

From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.

Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)

u/brock_lee · 7 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/SSChicken · 5 pointsr/photography

Definitely this. Even learning to bounce flash can dramatically improve the quality of your photos. Some of my favorite photos that I've taken have been in large part due to the lighting used. A few yongnuo flash units, umbrellas, stands, and triggers and you can really get into some lights for cheap. They won't support high speed sync, ETTL, flash groupings, or anything like that which means you're setting everything manually. What better way to learn, though! For under 300 bucks you can get a 3 flash setup and start taking some really great photos. If bounce is your thing you can get the Yongnuo 565 which puts out tons of power and does a great bounce (was the sole flash in that second photo). The only thing I wish it has was high speed sync.

u/Strottman · 5 pointsr/videography

L Bracket on the bottom, monitor plus microphone on that, done. Way cheaper than the handles and works quite well in my experience.

u/dotMJEG · 5 pointsr/photography

A simple pic stand and flash bracket with a reversible umbrella and a YN660 transmitter would be the best way to get off camera versatile flash for cheap.

In the future, every Monday, Weds, and Friday we have an official questions thread reserved for these types of questions.

u/awesometographer · 5 pointsr/photography

Sorry, lightstand, bracket, umbrella - bracket is for putting speedlites and umbrellas on stands, rather than monolights or flash heads that go straight on a stand, and have their own holes for umbrellas.

u/BrutalAttis · 5 pointsr/oculus

I owned both. I am just using the Vive now. I find both so very very similar, honestly they both suck about the same when it comes to resolution that for now I am just waiting for 2nd generation VR to come out and settling on the Vive until we get there.
I bought this clip from amazon. I have one light house mounted behind me in a corner an that clip on my screen. I have a camera light pole in the other corner. When I want room scale I unclip the light house and attach it the pole and I have room scale.

u/Moratamor · 5 pointsr/oculus

I use this clamp on a door frame. It's great as it holds well, leaves no marks, and when I'm done I just move it back to the top of my monitor.

u/dshafik · 4 pointsr/photography

My fiancé buys me neat (and cheap!) camera gear every year for christmas, so far I've gotten:

  • Gary Fong Puffer $18.99 (a flash diffuser)
  • Targus Battery Grip $25.98 (this is somewhat camera specific)
  • Hot shoe spirit level $5 (this is cheap as hell and really cool!)
  • Canon Monopod $34.95 (I have the Monopod 100 but it's no longer available. These are great for when a tripod is too bulky and sturdy enough to use as a light walking stick)
  • Dolica Tripod $39.99 (Great prosumer tripod, not a pro tripod though)
  • Lens cap keeper $1.91 (sticks to any lens cap and then attaches to the lens body to stop the lens cap from falling off)

    All of these things are pretty awesome for me, a serious hobbyist with a Nikon D5000 DSLR.

    Having said that, what I want for Christmas is:

  • 52mm Neutral Density Filters ($31.99) and 62mm Neutral Density Filters ($42.99), these are the same set for both my lenses, they let you do longer exposures under brighter light conditions. I want them for a shoot in early December though so will probably buy them before that myself ;)
  • A gradiated ND filter ($11.99), for the same reasons as above but only for one half of the exposure, with a gradient transition
  • Panoramic Image tripod head ($16.95) for creating seamless panoramas

    Hopefully this helps!
u/ezraekman · 4 pointsr/flashlight

> I know there are more professional tools than the ones I want to make myself but I really enjoy making them, and personalizing the main one, which is my camera.

> I just prefer a minimal size/always at your dispose light over the fastidiousnes of increase the weight of your camera and mounting/unmounting parts . As you can imagine I'm an amateur, looking professional is the least of my worries.

These are absolutely legitimate reasons to want to do this. My points don't apply.

> Your photos are great by the way, really , but what I'm looking for is to take pictures like this : https://www.flickr.com/photos/66469336@N02/23102037215/in/album-72157661350740135/ https://www.flickr.com/photos/66469336@N02/24396867472/in/album-72157661451662613/
> Which I recognize is not the most beautiful style for night pictures, but hey, it is mine.

On the contrary, your style is actually very attractive and serves a niche. Your photos don't come across as amateur; they have a very defined style and I actually like them quite a bit. I might personally expose the background slightly more, but otherwise I think what you're doing is great. It really captures a moment that's more than just grabbing shots of people smiling at the camera: you're catching people as they're having a good time, and they're involving the viewer in their moment.

Because of this, some of the traditional lighting rules simply don't apply. "Use a larger diffuser to soften the light", for example, is irrelevant of the light source also becomes part of the scene. The first photo you show actually has the phone present as a prop of the scene: your subjects are taking a selfie. The lighting in that scene makes perfect sense, and it works.

So, most of my advice about lighting in this context? Forget it. I'd still recommend against gluing something to your camera, but consider my hot shoe idea: buy some hot shoe caps (they're available in both plastic, and metal with a 1/4" threaded post), and then attach your light to those. You can use stronger adhesive so it won't fall apart while you're shooting, and you don't have to worry about removal later because they'll just pop off the hot shoe later. You might also consider using an external strobe but taking it off-camera. There are many ways to do this, but the cheapest is simply a flash shoe cord, which is available from your camera's manufacturer, or third-party for significantly less money.

However, if you're happy with the results of a tiny LED (and I think you have reason to be), I see no reason to change what you're doing. As a photographer, it's important to establish a "look". You've done that, and I see no reason to stray from it unless you want to experiment. It's clearly working for you. :-)

u/VAdrienV · 4 pointsr/AskPhotography

Oops, my bad. This is the one I bought from Amazon

u/GIS-Rockstar · 4 pointsr/photography
u/thenicolai · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

I have this one, and I've had no problems with it whatsoever. Works great and does everything I need it to. Shooting on a 5D as well.

u/jpdyno · 3 pointsr/photography

you don't really NEED it, you can get wonderful shots just bouncing an on-camera flash off a reflector, but you'll find when using an off-camera flash the light in your shots will look more natural, and you'll have much more flexibility for lighting and posing.

You can use the flash you are looking at off-camera by using a hot shoe cord or radio triggers (For example, Yongnuo RF-206 are found cheap on ebay).

You'll also find cheap softbox and umbrella kits floating around, which will improve the quality of your light. In a pinch you could bounce the flash off a reflector (even some white cardboard, or bedsheet. Be careful bouncing off walls as you may add a colour cast to the light).

u/teehizzlenizzle · 3 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)


Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7


White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8


Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6


Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT


I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?

u/opensourcer · 3 pointsr/photography
u/gidikh · 3 pointsr/photography

For a flash, these are $44 atm http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560-Speedlight-Flash-Canon/dp/B004GZLFHM/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_cp_5

I have 3 and they are pretty reliable.

Then you can get a cheap wireless recieve kit like this
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=pd_cp_p_1

u/cptdungle · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R400-Advanced-Camcorder/dp/B00AWZFJ22/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395594961&sr=8-1&keywords=canon+vixia+hf+r400)
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

Audio:
[Microphone:] (http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATR-6550-Condenser-Shotgun-Microphone/dp/B002GYPS3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595673&sr=8-1&keywords=shotgun+microphone)
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] (http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Photography-Bracket-Standard-Mounts/dp/B005Z4ROIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595189&sr=8-1&keywords=flash+bracket) This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-300-Clamp-Aluminum-Reflector/dp/B007RKKEHA/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595354&sr=8-17&keywords=can+lights)
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60-Inch-Lightweight-Tripod-Bag/dp/B005KP473Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1395595413&sr=8-3&keywords=tripod)
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

  • These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.

  • Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!

  • Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!

    Best of luck to you!

    edit: formatting
u/SolMarch · 3 pointsr/videography

[Rode's VideoMicro](http://amzn.to/2d9pZRN "Rode VideoMicro") may be a good option for your needs. It comes with a fuzzy windscreen which should help reduce wind noise.

You can use a flash bracket (example) to use accessories like microphones and LED lights with your camera. The bracket attaches via the camera's tripod mount and provides you with a couple cold shoe mounts.

u/Enduer · 3 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

No problem. :)

Ok, so flash is pretty easy. My setup might be a bit outdated, but here is what I use currently:

  • Flashes
  • Transceivers
  • Controller

    I have 3 of those flashes, they're really pretty great if you aren't too snobby about brands. I believe Yongnuo has flashes now with the transmitter built into them, but I have never used those and the only time I've seen them in action it didn't go super well. I'm sure they're fine, I just can't recommend them.

    So basically you put the controller on your camera. You put each flash you want to use off camera on the transceivers. The controller lets you adjust each flash's settings remotely and triggers them. It's awesome.

    If you generally don't know what you're doing with flash for the reception, it's generally best to bounce the light off the ceiling. Point the flashes roughly upward and fire away. At receptions with a defined dance floor you can get pretty great results by placing them in a couple of the corners. Your light might come back kinda yellow. If you don't want to worry about using gels on your flashes then just keep an eye out for it and adjust the white balance in Lightroom after the fact.

    Aside from flashes you will want some modifiers to place on them. When I was starting out the two that I used are these (these aren't the exact ones, but they're close):

  • Flashbender

  • Baby Softbox

    So there are probably better modifiers to use, but these are cheap and they work pretty well at diffusing/directing light. The softbox is great for portraits and I frequently would use the flash bender to direct light gently over a wide area, like when the toasts are going on or the bridal party is entering the room or the dance floor. When used correctly you should get pretty great lighting and avoid hard shadows.

    Anyways, how I shot those photos. You're generally right. I love shots like that (probably too much), and so I do them all the time. The general idea is the same for all of them, soft light in front and a bright light in the back. Using the specific equipment I listed above, my usual MO is to put a bare flash behind them, typically on the ground (using these)or on a stand as low as possible to the ground. Point it at the couple and slightly upward (photo 1 is the exception, it was pointed essentially straight up to make the gazebo light up like that).

    Set up a flash in front of them. In most of those photos I used the flashbender modifier on the flash pointing at the couple to direct but diffuse the light. It helps it look a bit more natural. Generally you want to position it in a way that the shadows aren't too distracting, so do it slightly off to the side to get more natural lighting. Obviously I messed up in a few of mine but it is what it is and most people don't even notice. We're always our own harshest critic.

    Next is the settings. This is honestly the toughest part in my opinion. You need to expose for the background you want and then use the flashes to achieve the lighting you want on the subjects. I don't know how to describe this, but the easiest way is with photo #6 on my website. I exposed the photo for the city behind the couple and got the look I wanted, THEN I added flashes and whatnot. General rule of thumb is the light behind the couple should be one step brighter than the light in front. That way you get the glowing backlight effect.

    Thanks for the compliments on the photos! I hope this helps. I'm sorry if I did a bad job of explaining things, just ask me to clarify anything you don't understand.

    EDIT: All this being said you don't NEED off camera flash. I've shot entire receptions using on-camera flash. The most important thing to remember is you just want to diffuse the light in some way. When you're using flash on camera you typically achieve this by bouncing it at the ceiling. Practice this at home, it usually works pretty well!
u/B9AE2 · 3 pointsr/Vive

It might be better to go with something nicer than those. $14 for cheap plastic crap is kind of absurd, plus they have pretty bad reviews. I got these, and they're only $5 more each.

u/KhaiNguyen · 3 pointsr/canon

I have the Yongnuo 568EX II and have taken a few hundred shots with it with no missed shots. Construction is very solid, and all the features work as expected including highspeed sync and E-TTL. The color is a little cooler than my Canon flashes so I always have to warm it up a bit in post process.

For long-term reliability? Well, you kind of get what you pay for; there are people reporting that these "cheaper" flashes do not last as long as the brand name. I've only had the Yongnuo for a couple of months so I can't tell how long they will last, but I've had the Canon 580EX for 10 years now and it hasn't missed a shot.

u/tripler6 · 3 pointsr/photography

This is a little more secure but I've never had any issues with the regular umbrella brackets, either.

u/unreqistered · 3 pointsr/photography

Just a suggestion, use the Neewer Flash Bracket. It's way more manageable for holding the flash.

You can also just epoxy the dish to the bracket. If you don't want to sacrifice the flash bracket, attach a speedring adapter to the dish.

Good effort though, results are what matter.

u/PuffThePed · 3 pointsr/Vive

I have a 1070 and it's fine. Get a cheap camera clamp mount and angle the lighthouses down. You play space is going to be a bit restrictive, but mostly ok.

u/PosiedonsTrident · 3 pointsr/photography

Speedlite holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JS3MINC

I own a couple of these and they are fantastic!

Gels: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URG1C2C

No need to go with the expensive Rogue set. I love these by Selens.

Lighting gear bag:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEE7J0U

This has been put through a bit of use and has held up great so far.


Lighting stands

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L4YR0BS/

Speedlites

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010XCEABO/

u/SoTotallyToby · 3 pointsr/Vive

I got two clamps that will clip to furniture. I have one on a shelf, the other on a curtain rail and they work bloody perfect. Great too if you travel with them and they're very small. Definitely better than having a tripod taking up space!

Only £15 for 2!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667294&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=dslr+clamp

u/Nye · 3 pointsr/Vive

Had a similar problem over the summer, and my solution was these beauties: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/

Depending on what country you're in, you might still be able to get something from Amazon for tomorrow.

u/AberrantCheese · 3 pointsr/M43

Get a flash, such as the the FL-600R. (the built in flash being harsh and crappy.) The flash will allow you to go up to 1/200 or so which will suitably 'freeze' squirmy children. With infants/toddlers don't point the light straight at them for two reasons; one, it scares them and two direct flash looks terri-bad; bounce the light off the ceiling, or if that doesn't work too well, use a diffuser, soft box, or reflector.

It takes a little practice with the flash (your first results will underwhelm you) but with a little YouTube and Googling you can get down the techniques quick enough to get squirmy baby photos indoors without needing to buy expensive lenses (though yes the flash is itself expensive.... so maybe my argument is moot.) Faster lenses (especially prime lens at portrait focal lengths) will certainly do the job without a flash. You will do OK with either the Pany or the Oly 20/17mm's though I would first advise renting them through LensRentals first (as well as try out any other lens that takes your fancy.)

​

u/ChrisDaChicken · 2 pointsr/ExposurePorn

Sure, here’s the one I got.

PROTAGE Condensation Prevention Lens Heater Evening dew Remover USB Warmer P-LH02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X18JND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6UdQBbR4X3V1Z

u/514SaM · 2 pointsr/photography

something like this

u/webmonk · 2 pointsr/photography

Awesome! As for the pop-up flash, you can either put a Puffer or some variant on it or I've also read that if you're seeing flash from the pop-up in the picture (which you shouldn't) you need to adjust the flash sync settings on your camera. Have fun with the off-camera flashing! :)

u/insanopointless · 2 pointsr/photography

Yeah tripod is an idea, the good ones do cost quite a lot. I've just upgraded to a carbon fibre Manfrotto 190 that I'm happy with, but it cost me a bit over $400 AUD which kinda blows it out! The 055 is probably better for studio work, being bigger and sturdier, but I got mine for on the road.

A flash is a good idea. The more practice you get with the flash, the better - I'm still learning and so I can't really help you with the Yongnuo. I do know that a lot of people use them, and they're the go to off-brand alternative. I use a single 430exii, and looking to get a trigger. I hear that the Cowboy Studio wireless triggers work pretty well, looking to get some myself. Amazon Link. There are packs slightly more expensive (like $28) that come with more than one receiver. Good reviews, really cheap, though I don't have any experience myself. You must manually set the flash.

Anyway, off-camera flash is a good first step in making a pro product, and I imagine takes more practice than using different softboxes and whatnot. You could get him a pretty nice setup for $200 I think.

Here's a good link that someone else linked just today. Seems like a good guide, though note all the links have referral codes for that website in them, if it bothers you. Here

u/ToTouchAnEmu · 2 pointsr/itookapicture

Oh these dirt cheap wireless flash triggers from cowboy studio. They haven't failed me yet.

u/trouser_trout · 2 pointsr/photography

As av4rice said, this is going to be tough with only one light.

A shoot like this is typically done with 3-5 lights - key and fill on the subject, one to two lights blasting the background, and maybe a hair light behind the subject if you want to get fancy. That's the basic way to do it but there are endless variations - that's what makes good studio photographers great. If you have an iPad, check out Scott Kelby's Lighting Recipes app - it's free and shows a bunch of different lighting setups for different shots.

Are you looking to do more of this type of shoot in the future? Can you afford to buy or rent a bit of gear? I'd suggest at a minimum a cheap wireless trigger so you can fire your flash off-camera. I use the Cowboy Studio NPT-04 which is $22 on Amazon. The build quality is crappy and there's no TTL support, but they're way cheaper than Pocket Wizards or Radio Poppers and work just fine. I use mine with both small battery powered strobes and studio strobes. This will at least allow you to move your flash off camera for a decent key light. If you don't have a second light, a reflector (or piece of foam board) can function as a reflector for some fill.

Keep in mind this is all part of the creativity of shooting - you can probably get decent results with the flash on camera and bounced toward the subject, but most great portrait shots you might look at for inspiration will have been shot with off-camera lighting. Fashion photography tends to lean towards straight on lighting above and/or below the camera. Other types of portraits go for more depth (shadows) with the key light to one side. Look at the eye catchlights in photos you'd like to emulate to figure out how they were lit.

The background is going to be tougher. Maybe others have suggestions on how to do it with one light, but I can't think of how I'd do it. Can you spend $30 or $40 at Home Depot? I'd grab a couple of these clamp lights and pair them with some daylight bulbs (around 6000K temp to match your strobe). Set a few of those bad boys pointing toward the background and you should have no problem blowing it out.

It may seem obvious but setup everything at home and practice before you get to the shoot! Pin a white sheet up on your wall and play around. Figure out how you're going to make the shot work with limited gear. Expensive studio gear makes things easier, but there's no reason you can't get great results with a well-thoughtout barebones kit.

Last, if you really have to you can blow out the background in post, but to do it well will take a while. Getting the background right on site will save you hours in post.

u/harbinjer · 2 pointsr/photography

I think there are TTL compatible cables that you can get like this. You can at least use your current flash with it's TTL Capabilities, even if not with total control.

u/themcan · 2 pointsr/M43

After we lost a set of family pictures (and having to pull teeth to get another set) to crappy, non-responsive mommytographers after our second was born, I decided to finally get a real camera and learn some photography basics. We've got our third on the way now, so I'm starting to evaluate the kit I've acquired over the last few years in light of this.
If you're looking to get a flash, just grab the cheap AmazonBasics manual one and bounce it off the ceiling behind you; you'll get 80%+ of the utility of the flash for $30, adding the Cowboy Studio radio trigger gets your flash off camera for cheap as well. Regardless, learning how to use flash is another skill to research (the Strobist is a great resource) and takes a ton of practice. However, babies are slow enough that you should be just fine bumping your ISO a bit and shooting your 20mm wide open.
Really, though, I'll echo what other posters have said: knowledge beats throwing money at kit. What you have is plenty sufficient for good pictures, and buying more kit will barely move picture quality if you don't add knowledge. Practice with mom, practice with a doll, look at pictures of babies, etc. In addition, learn to post-process. Your first attempts will suck, but shoot RAW and practice. You're better off spending $150 on good PP software than another lens, but you can still make do just fine with open source software.
 
We have a similar setup: EM10m2, 14-42 kit, 25mm f/1.8, 40-150 f/4-5.6, 7.5mm f/3.5 fisheye, as well as a smattering of old adapted lenses (most useful is the 50mm f/1.7 that fills the classic "portraiture" role)

u/MathewC · 2 pointsr/photography

Alright, so lets say I get the Yongnuo YN-560 III,

How can I find out which transmitters work with it?

Amazon is recommending this

So, I can have a remote in my hand, a transmitter on the camera, and the flash elsewhere. I hit the remote, it triggers the flash and the camera?

u/pixelperfector · 2 pointsr/photocritique

Get more level with the object, and throw in some catch-lights. As for keeping the background true black, you can place a piece of flat cardboard on the end of each light box to discourage light from going to the side instead of just straight out. We call them flags, but I like to call them blinders. Call them anything you like, it's your studio.

Lastly, invest the best you can with two [Yongnuo flashes] (http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-560-Standard-Shoe-Flash/dp/B004GZNBH4/ref=sr_1_16?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171284&sr=1-16) and a [Cowboy Studio radio transmitter set] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412171336&sr=1-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger).

I have the flashes I linked to and they are fabulous - been through a lot with them and they are still going strong. Yongnuo has a ton of different types of flashes, so you have a plethora to choose from depending on what you're looking for.

Lastly, should you be into the flash option, I would say you can save yourself the trouble of outfitting them both with transmitters and just have one with the transmitter and one on S (slave) mode.

u/Febtober2k · 2 pointsr/RealEstate

I picked up 2 of these flashes and this wireless trigger, and this(or similar) set of reflective umbrellas and stands. All that stuff is pretty universal and should work on most cameras.

It's nothing fancy, but it's less than $200 for the whole setup and it gets great results. I use the same stuff for portrait work.

The Tokina lens looks great, but unfortunately it's designed for a crop sensor. I can put it on my full frame camera, but it's going to leave me with a big black circle around all of my pictures.

u/britheguy · 2 pointsr/photography

Here is a cheap setup I put together. Fire away!

Triggers = $29.00

Speedlights 2 @ $80.00 = $160.00

4 Umbrellas - Tripods - Flashmounts - Carrying Case = $70

Total = $258.94

u/OtterInAustin · 2 pointsr/photography

Seriously, get yourself a Yongnuo. They're like, $40, and functionally similar to any branded speedlight. A demo pack of stage gels to slide over the strobe, maybe even a cheap as chips speedlight trigger, and you're set up for about 90% of speedlight work for less than a quarter of the price of an actual Nikon speedlight alone.

There's literally no reason to not go for it, and it opens up your shooting a lot.

u/jrshaul · 2 pointsr/photography

Do you want a RF trigger or to run it off your camera via a flash-based system?

EDIT:

Looks like the "cheap" part is going to require you to get an RF trigger and run it manually. You can get a few different kinds of manual off-camera flash for under $40, but a $60 Neewer TT860 will work great manually and you can use it with TTL on the camera as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer®-Speedlite-Camera-High-Speed-Cameras/dp/B00E3K94T6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084596&sr=8-4&keywords=E-TTL+flash

A Cowboystudio dual trigger is going to run you $27 and works pretty darn well. Just keep stuffing dollar tree AAAs.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420084639&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboystudio+trigger

u/Brettalis · 2 pointsr/skateboarding

I got [these] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Speelights-extra-receiver/dp/B005IQRMN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369691507&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+flash+trigger) which are just some what cheap flash triggers. One part goes on the hot shoe of the camera and the other one or two receivers have their own hot shoe that you put flashes onto.

u/laXfever34 · 2 pointsr/videography

I thought i'd share what I just came up with.

I am moving to Germany at the end of the month for about two years, and I will be doing a LOT of traveling during this time. To preserve memories and share my experiences I decided to upgrade and change around my camera bag. I sold my d3300 and lenses and wanted a setup for something portable and not cumbersome that I can take in any situation without being annoying.

My activities I want to capture:


u/batardo · 2 pointsr/photography

I don't use flashes normally but am getting some for an upcoming trip to a dark place (a cave). I'm thinking of getting two Yongnuo 560ii flashes and a couple triggers.

  • I could theoretically get a Canon 600ex speedlite instead for about the price of the two Yongnuos plus a hundred bucks, used. I don't anticipate doing a lot of flash photography in future, although of course you never know. Are there features on the Canon that the Yongnuo doesn't have that make it a better choice? What am I missing out on being able to do with the Canon if I go for the Yongnuo instead?

  • What triggers should I go for? I'm looking at these – pocketwizards aren't available where I am. Stupid question, but I'll need two sets of triggers to work with two flashes at once, right?
u/Comfortably_Numb · 2 pointsr/photography

>Do i buy a better flash or triggers?

Yes. Yongnuo HSS capable trigger and Yongnuo HSS capable flash.

u/AimlessWanderer · 2 pointsr/Vive

Clamps work best I purchased this clamp ball/adapter . So if you have something similar already you may be good to go.

http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ

u/Mojopin71 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Here's the set up I use and like it very much. I looked at the light stands too, but didn't want the feet on the stand protruding into my play space. They have worked great and have had no issue. You may be able to find shorter ones, but I have high ceilings and had to go with these.

http://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Support-System-144-Inches-3HAND5/dp/B000067S12?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

http://www.amazon.com/Smallrig%C2%AE-Clamp-Mount-Ball-Adapter/dp/B00CSMCPKQ?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

You can get shorter ones from Harbor Freight for a lot cheaper. They just weren't long enough for my ceilings. The one from Amazon is much sturdier too.

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html

u/_madmod_ · 2 pointsr/Vive

Thanks for linking the Harbor Freight poles. They are half the price of the ones I've seen used elsewhere. I chose to get these clamps because they have better reviews and should be able to fit on smaller poles. With luck I'll be able to clamp to the silver top part of the bar hopefully making it sturdier and lower profile for transport.

u/hashbrush · 2 pointsr/canon

Yongnuo's probably the way to go. They make really nice 3rd party flashes.

If you do buy one, make sure:

1: It's made for Canon

2: It has TTL (basically means it has auto mode), probably listed as ETTL or something.

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-568EX-YN568EX-powerful-speedlite/dp/B00DA8459G

This is the one I have, works fine on my 80D.

https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN600EX-RT-Speedlite-YN-E3-RT-600EX-RT/dp/B01GMFQULE

This is the slightly higher end model with radio triggering for wireless off-camera flash.

Hope this helps! What camera are you using?

EDIT: Oh hey, I just noticed my suggestions are identical to another guy in this sub.

u/throwaway185733 · 2 pointsr/photography
  1. put a flash on your hot shoe and get a little softbox for the flash.

  2. get a manual exposure (to about -2/3) without using the flash. you can drop the shutter to 1/15th in order to deal with the low light.

  3. turn on the flash and adjust the intensity until your subject is properly exposed. even with a slow shutter your subject will have good sharpness due to the flash being almost instant.


    the direction of light will be annoying but it will work. if it were me, i would put a flash on a light stand with a shoot through umbrella and reposition that for each photo.

    this is the basic idea with on location lighting. expose for the ambient lit background, then add in flash to your foreground subject. remember that shutter speed will only affect the background/ambient exposure while aperture/iso effect the entire exposure. you can increase the shutter speed for a lower key look or slow it down for a flatter image.
u/AeroSimGaming · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I run a super budget setup as close to professional lighting as I can. Well it's budget in comparison to pro set ups.

I start with one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014H2P89O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_wSnezbPMKMHMZ

It's dimmable so I can adust the brightness for any time of day and turn it off without messing around with switches.

I plug that into this.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HX2EVPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_TVnezbVVQ3QQB

Well in reality I have a small desk lamp with a clip on it. It attaches to my monitor stand. But we'll get what ever lamp work for you.

Then I bought this soft box. Modified it slightly (just cut it open a little)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENSKUUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_eYnezbNZ9D1XR

Then bam. Simple and adjustable set up for my setup. I can make the light as bright or dull as required by the remaining room lighting.

Go for a larger softbox if you have room. I don't as I have all my monitors on a 2x2 stand!

(Not referral links)

u/MrSalamifreak · 2 pointsr/photography

> some type of diffuser

I have a thing like this, came with my flash. Results are okay-ish, definitely worth 8 bucks thought. Full frontal in the face with little flash and there are no shadows anywhere in the face. No studio quality, but improvement to ceiling bouncing in my experience

u/ishouldquitsmoking · 2 pointsr/photography

memory cards if she's on dslr. you can never have enough, in my opinion

extra batteries - depending on your budget. You can find the batteries for her camera online if you know the make/model.

$8 flash modifier if she has a hotshoe flash (a big flash that isn't built into the camera)

a camera bag/backpack if she doesn't have one.

rechargeable batteries and a battery charger if she has a hotshoe flash that takes AA batteries.

A remote shutter release. If you know the make/model you can buy one for her camera that will either be with a cord or wireless and let her control the shutter from a remote control which is handy in a lot of settings.




u/Ashrack · 2 pointsr/Vive

I grabbed this one:
http://www.amazon.com/SLFC-Tripod-Camera-Reflector-Backdrop/dp/B00JKDMG96?ie=UTF8&refRID=1ADN35RMBCKAXAV512XF&ref_=pd_ybh_a_12

Very solidly built clamp, strong spring mechanism and the mount has a good range of motion with a screw tightener that looks like it'll hold the lighthouse in any position I need. I don't have a lighthouse yet to test beyond that, but for <$10 this looks to be perfect.

u/Newbosterone · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Here’s another crazy idea: Clip-on Tripod and embarrassingly bright pop can light. The light’s angle will change as the deck angle changes, not source how big a factor that will be with so much spill. Plus the light is mostly parallel to the road, so obstructions cast shadows.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/photography

I'd go for an AD200 Pro with their X-Pro wireless trigger. If you've got money left over, you could grab one of their smaller lights for fill / background lighting.

I use this mount to hold mine, which is infinitely quicker than the included mount. There's also a good variety of modifiers that come in Bowens mount.

u/wickeddimension · 2 pointsr/photography

Haha you're welcome. It is an excellent system.

> I should be able to put these things on my tripods as lightstands, right?

Not so much tripods, although you can probably find something for that too. Usually people use dedicated light stands. There is a nifty adapter godox makes that allows you to clamp in a speedlight and attach Bowens type modifers (the same as their strobes) such as octoboxes and softboxes. There is a hole in there too so you can attach a umbrella.

u/MikeBScott · 2 pointsr/Vive
u/game_0ver_ · 2 pointsr/Vive

I picked up two of these clamps for my living room as more of a temporary mount. Planning on clamping them to the curtain pole, wall light or maybe on a door. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459112857&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=camera+mount+clamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41o38CfsL6L&ref=plSrch

u/Mega__Maniac · 2 pointsr/Vive

Yea, I have one of the smallest gorillapods and used to use it for mounting a lighthouse. Obviously if you can get one of the legs wrapped around something then so much the better.

But if its going to become a common thing, get these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They happily clip onto shelves, doors, curtain rails etc and provide a good grip, I have no fear of them falling.

u/Whirlmeister · 2 pointsr/Vive

I've found mounting on a full bookcase (filled with books) to be just as reliable as wall mounting. So long as it is weighted down it will be fine.

Having said that I use spring clips (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ), which may be more secure with bookcases than a gorilla pod.

u/wieieo · 2 pointsr/videography

I have the a6300, sigma 30mm f1.4 & crane v2. I love it!

You will need something to balance the camera on the crane correctly. Either a quickrelease plate or something like a hot shoe adapter on top of the camera https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Mount-Tripod-Screw-Adapter/dp/B018UJLIOE

Some things to consider tho, shutter speed is a problem. And if you want to shoot in 1080p the quality isnt really great. You can shoot in 4k and then render it to 1080p in post if you like.

u/iAmTheAlchemist · 2 pointsr/analog

Maybe someone makes some accessory shoe mount to tripod thread adapter so that you can mount this on a tripod and then mount the camera upside down into the shoe thing? Lmao it feels weird just to type this so it probably does not exist?

EDIT: Well shit, apparently it exists it looks like it's made to support accessories though, and not an upside down camera, but I reckon it could help to just line up the shot while still having to hold the camera a bit.

u/smushkan · 2 pointsr/videography

The D5100 is not a great choice for video, as it doesn't allow you to adjust aperture while shooting video which makes it a real pain getting your exposure correct.

For ~$100 more than the SX60HS you could grab a Panasonic G7 which also supports 4k and has a whole lot more video-focused features; and also there's quite a range of relatively inexpensive M43 glass that costs a lot less than Nikon mount lenses.

Generally if you're shooting with DSLR or mirrorless you'll want an external audio solution. For example, you could combine whatever camera you end up buying with an inexpensive recorder such as a Zoom H1. You can then use a Attenuating cable with headphone splitter to allow you to route the audio from the recorder into the camera for synchronised recording while also allowing you to listen to the audio with headphones.

You can connect the camera, microphone, and recorder together using a cold shoe extender and a 1/4"-20 screw to cold shoe adapter for the audio recorder.

Given that it sounds like you'll be recording in very noisy environments anyway, I wouldn't worry too much about handling noise, especially if you mount whatever microphone you get in a suspension mount.

u/dark_knight_007 · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

i mean they are pretty standard, but am getting this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018UJLIOE

u/mrtramplefoot · 2 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

I'd definitely pick up a speed light. If they choose right in front off the Windows and it's bright out, you're toast without it. Something like Altura Photo Professional Flash Kit for NIKON DSLR - Includes: I-TTL Flash (AP-N1001), Wireless Flash Trigger Set and Accessories https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H84WRK2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_j0a-ybVCZGCG4 Will get you ittl and a remote trigger for not too much money. Since you're traveling, worst case scenario you make your bf hold it, but you might be able to get away with it on camera bounced of the ceiling. I might grab something like this Flash Diffuser Light Softbox 6x5” by Altura Photo (Universal, Collapsible with Storage Pouch) for Canon, Yongnuo and Nikon Speedlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_e2a-yb78Y3G53 too, just to be safe

u/magnuspenus · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

I highly recommend using a diffuser or soft box such as this one or this one

u/HybridCamRev · 2 pointsr/bmpcc

I have the BMPCC, but if I had it to do all over, I would get a [£990 Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera with free postage or click and collect pick up from Argos] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=222079100710&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) instead - for its 1080/60p frame rate (the BMPCC is limited to 1080/30p) and superior battery life.

You'll also need a [£179 HDMI viewfinder with an LP-E6 battery plate (same as the camera)] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Feelworld-Electronic-ViewFinder-including-Panasonic-as-shown/dp/B0140L5F18//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21), a [£5.89 cold shoe] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MD29V3X//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) for the top of the camera and a [£6.99 swivel mount adapter] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMALLRIG%C2%AE-Camera-Mount-Additional-Screw-Shoe-761/dp/B0087MV3LI//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) to mount the viewfinder on the cold shoe.

The BMMCC is the only 1080/60p RAW camera in this price range and will give you a much wider color palette for grading than other cameras below £1000 (most theatrical pictures are shot in RAW). It will also give you wider dynamic range.

Here is the image quality this camera can produce:

Narrative/Experimental

u/ToshiYamioka · 2 pointsr/videography

All I'm finding is this item which has a tripod 1/4 hole on the bottom and a flash shoe on top.

You can also get a base like this and attach a cold shoe mount to the top of it for the same thing.

u/JuiceFloppeh · 2 pointsr/videography

then propably something along these lines.

​

Top Handle Attached L Grip

​

or this:

​

L Grip combined with a cold shoe mount on the handle

u/NotFamousButAMA · 2 pointsr/photography

Yes, definitely! Lighting does not need to be crazy expensive unless you want it to be crazy expensive. (That 50 is going to be your best friend when you're starting, a fixed focal length gives you one less thing to worry about while you're fussing with lights. It's also a super sharp lens).

First, you're going to need a flash. Off-camera capabilities are ideal, and Canon has some amazing speedlites (that also come at an amazingly high price). I recommend this one. it's affordable, it has in-flash metering, and it comes with wireless capabilities. (your camera also has in-camera wireless flash triggering, but you need a flash that's compatible)

Next, a light modifier. bare flash is terrible for portraits, especially single-subject portrait work. What I personally would recommend (this is totally subjective), is a light stand with a shoot-through umbrella mount and a reflector. Umbrellas are cheap (I bought a ProMaster shoot-through umbrella for like $15 about a month ago, it works great), a light stand or two may run you about 40 bucks or so, and a bracket that fits your flash and umbrella on your stand is cheap (example ).

Reflectors can be found anywhere, Neewer makes generally cheap stuff (kinda crappy sometimes imo), but you don't need an expensive one. 20-30 bucks is good enough.

For the techniques and lighting methods you can do with a one-flash, one-reflector setup, a quick google search can give you some great ideas. However I recommend reading Strobist. Super good insight, some gear picks (that are more expensive), and some tried and true lighting methods to give you awesome results.

My biggest recommendation is to use the tried and true methods as a jumping-off point, and start playing around with your setup. You can do incredible things with one flash and one reflector, and while it can be intimidating at first, it can only get easier. Good luck!

u/SPYALEX8 · 2 pointsr/ExposurePorn

I think using a lens warmer is typically considered the best option!

u/ageowns · 1 pointr/photography

oh, I also just got the Gary Fong puffer that fits into Canon, Nikon, or Sony hot shoes and diffuses light from your pop-up flash. Not bad for $18. I haven't played with it extensively yet, but I'm shooting a conference with high ceilings (no bounce) so I thought I'd get a lot of use out of it then.
Puffer on Amazon

u/baldylox · 1 pointr/photography

A 7D is still roughly half the price of a 5D. It's not a full-frame sensor, etc. I'm not saying it's not a nice camera, but professionals would see it as a back-up camera, not their main camera body.

Pros don't skimp on camera bodies because that's about 10-20% of what gets spent on equipment in a year.

One of my old backup camera bodies is a 40D. It has a pop-up flash built in. I've never used the built-in flash, and I bought it new 4 or 5 years ago.

One thing this conversation has led me to believe: there is probably more than one reason those bodies don't have a built-in flash.

But neither did a Pentax K1000, Canon AE-1, Olympus OM, or any other old inexpensive film SLR.

If you have a camera body with the flash and no budget for a high-end flash, invest $22 or so in this:

http://www.amazon.com/Gary-Fong-Diffuser-OLYMPUS-excluding/dp/B0011000R6/

It's a great little diffuser for those harsh pop-up flashes. I own a few of his products, and they're all wonderful. I've never owned this particular diffuser, but I have recommended it to folks that bought one and let me play with it. My neighbor's 14-year-old kid is getting some great results. I didn't have his talent when I was 14. He's gonna be awesome.

u/DVDJunky · 1 pointr/dvdcollection

I think it gets up there is speed in Western parts of NE but I don't usually make it any where past 75.

I actually forgot about my D300. I've got one that /u/beav0901dm's GF might buy off me for cheap with a kit lens.

I've got one fixed lens (35mm if I recall correctly). I'd like to get a really nice 50mm at some point.

Do you shoot manual? How about lighting etc? I was thinking about picking up a flash but in the mean time got a diffuser for the shitty built in flash.

u/tim_lingley · 1 pointr/analog

Hmm, if you have cables for them, it would be worth trying to fire a flash off camera with no film loaded. Sadly I'm not familiar with that kind of trigger, but I have had decent luck with the Cowboy Studios manual triggers - http://www.amazon.ca/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW

u/WGeorgeCook · 1 pointr/photography

A dedicated radio trigger will help you do things like trigger flashes that aren't in the same room as your camera (for things like real estate shots), or if the flash is in such a position that the pop up flash doesn't reach the sensor on the flash. For things like portraits or still lives, the pop up flash can change the exposure of the image, and will show up as a source of light if not configured properly.

For as cheap as radio triggers are, just grab one like the [Cowboy Studio] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394476818&sr=8-1&keywords=cowboy+studio+flash+trigger) I use. Super cheap and gets the job done. Maybe not the best option at crowded places where other photographers might be using similar frequencies, but at home or in your own studio it will suffice.

u/DvS21 · 1 pointr/photography

Yeah those are great options to get done what you want to do, However there are cheaper options if price is your driving factor. This guy is a bare bones basic flash trigger, which means that you won't get any ETTL capabilities and will have to manually set flash power. With the unit you pointed out, you will get ETTL metering, however, with the 430EX II it is my understanding that you still do have to manually change all other parameters (unlike some of the other flashes the unit you picked out supports, you can't change things like curtain sync or flash group from the camera with the transceiver IIRC).

The 622c is quite a good little unit, for the price. It will give you a bunch of ways to expand, with 7 channels you can set up multiple flash banks in the future by adding transceivers and flashes. It's also better made and will give you better range than the simple Cowboy Studio trigger. Though what it comes down to is, how much do you want to spend and what features do you think are necessary?

u/RexL2 · 1 pointr/photography

I was eyeing the YN622's too. For the cowboystudio triggers would this NPT-04 kit work?

u/Oreoloveboss · 1 pointr/photography

Thanks, do you know of any cheap wireless transmitter+receiver that can trigger through the hot shoe?

Or can this cowboy studio one trigger through hot shoe? or does it only trigger through the PC Sync?

u/TheJables · 1 pointr/photography

Oh wow...ya, I just did this and you were 100% correct, it looks like the flash isn't firing in sync with the shutter. I watched the flash go off but the picture itself was completely black. So is this some sort of Curtain Setting Issue? Perhaps the Triggers are shit?

Here are the triggers i'm using

u/umbrellabeach · 1 pointr/photography
u/cgallello · 1 pointr/photography

Don't spend money if you don't need it. This is all you need to trigger a 430EX II off of a T3.

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1335808830&sr=8-2

u/Graniteman · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

Yep, but third party. Looks like I was wrong and it's $20.
http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-E-TTL-Off-Camera-replaces-OC-E3b/dp/B003GR6IUK

I have one of these and it works just fine. I'm an amateur, and using it for hand-held macro like I described in my post, so take that as context for my recommendation :)

u/Lambo_ · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

you need either:

1) Off-Camera Flash Sync Cable

or

2) Wireless Flash Trigger

It's best to start with a cord, and not overcomplicate things. As your skill progresses, you'll eventually want to move to a wireless trigger.

u/vwllss · 1 pointr/photography

Depends, do you need TTL?

One easy thing to do is get a hotshoe extension: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GR6IUK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003GR6IUK&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20

Obviously you're then limited to 10 feet off camera, although that's still quite a bit

If you'd like wireless you could get some cheap radios. I'm a big fan of Yongnuo's better stuff. It's direct from China so it's not supreme quality, but it's the "high end" Chinese stuff so it's actually quite reliable. I have 6 Yongnuo triggers and I'm very happy with them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050E7OSM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0050E7OSM&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20

The problem there is they're manual only, meaning you have to fire off your flash(es), look at your screen, and adjust them appropriately. This isn't so bad and it's what I do when I have a portrait session. In the case of a careful portrait I prefer the control over the automatic. Note you don't need to look at your screen if you buy a flash meter, but they're quite expensive.

The last option is a TTL radio, which lets you both go wireless and automatic. They cost upwards of $250 per unit (so $150-$500 for a pair to use your flash with).

http://shop.radiopopper.com/radiopopperjrxstudiokitusca.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TAPOQ0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001TAPOQ0&linkCode=as2&tag=vwllss-20

u/mzinz · 1 pointr/photography

Are the umbrella swivels a universal standard? Would this be fine to connect the flash to stand? http://www.amazon.com/Flash-Holder-compatible-Canon-Speedlite/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324340636&sr=8-1

u/thelogic · 1 pointr/photography

Will this swivel and this adapter allow me to connect a Yongnuo560iv to a Dolica Tripod?


Also, does anyone have any better quality swivel recommendations?

u/whatisfailure · 1 pointr/photography

I bought this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TYDBYQ/
and there's nothing to screw in. It looks like there's supposed to be a larger piece that fits into the flash bracket.

u/skeetloaf · 1 pointr/photography

Is there a cheap adapter that would attach this to the screw on top of a regular camera tripod? basically a light stand adapter of sorts?

u/lbgator · 1 pointr/photography

If you get this CowboyStudio trigger/receivers you'll be able to trigger two flashes at once. Then you can buy individual receivers to hook up to your remaining flashes. For some reason it's actually cheaper to buy the kit with a transmitter and two receivers though.

That's the setup I use. You have to keep your flashes in manual, but it works (for Nikon and the cheap-o YN-560s). Range is good, batteries seem to last just fine, everything works out of the box.

u/revjeremyduncan · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I have been saving up for these Wireless Flash Triggers so I can take our family portrait. They aren't that expensive, but I just can't seem to squeeze an extra $30 into my budget.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/photography

Anyhow...

As far as preparing - what do you have for gear? (I'm not trying to be a gear whore here - just curious what you're working with). If you don't already have something in the 35-50mm range - get something. Canon's cheapest option is the 50mm f1.8. It's an extremely cheap lens for the image quality - but it also feels cheap. If you've got the extra money - find an MK I model - as it has a metal mount. (I believe that's true. I only owned the plastic MK II & 50 1.4)

If you're shooting Nikon - I'd highly recommend the 35mm 1.8 or 35mm f2.

If you don't have a flash - pick up one (or two) of these - and learn to use them: Yongnuo YN560

Pick up some triggers, too. Then you can fire your flash wirelessly in order to bouce/move it around without a cable. Here are some cheap ones. Mine only fire about 9/10 times - I guess I'll take that gamble though. Link

If you don't have a reflector - [get one of those as well.] (http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335429041&sr=8-1) - Also learn to use it.

Find a used tripod on CL. Buy something good. DO NOT BUY A $25 TRIPOD AND EXPECT IT TO HOLD $2000 (or whatever) in camera. Find something used. You can find decent manfrotto w/heads for $80-$100.


So enough gear rambling - are you able to fire your flash off camera? What kinds of things do your grandmother and aunt like to do? Get them in their element, doing something they enjoy. I'll take that over any solid colored background.

u/joshsphotography · 1 pointr/portraitphotos

Thanks!

I used two of these and this set of colors.


Easy results for under $100. around $100.

EDIT: Oh yeah, and this for my off-camera triggering system.

u/TBurg123 · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7

The kit lens is good. I still use it in certain situations because it is versatile and it's not the end of the world if it gets broken. You're probably going to want something that's better in low light though.

I HIGHLY recommend getting the Panasonic 25mm f/1.7. It's a fantastic little lens and it's not too pricey as far as lenses go.

You're definitely going to want a tripod that is heavier duty than that, as well as a fluid head. And get yourself some kind of stabilizing solution for when you go handheld, even if it's just a cheap handle or something like that.

u/Consolol · 1 pointr/photography

Yeah, that's going to happen, but you can set it to very low power and depending on the subject distance the onboard flash's contribution to the exposure can be minimal.

Yongnuo TTL triggers Yongnuo manual triggers

Cactus also makes TTL triggers but I'm not familiar with the system.

u/XenonFlare · 1 pointr/Cameras

I have a Yongnuo YN 560 III. It has all the same features as the high-end name brand flashes for only $70.
Be aware in order to get ETTL support, you need to buy their ETTL triggers.

u/Supervillian · 1 pointr/photography

Photographer friends! I'm finally going to buy some lighting equipment, so I was looking for any recommendations. My budget is around $500 for a two light setup. I usually shoot costume photography (at conventions and outside of them) and portraits.


I would like to go with Yongnuo for the triggers (YN622) and flashes themselves (probably 1 565EX and 1 560).


I have no idea what to go with for the stands (Maybe Manfrotto Nano or Lumopro Compact?), swivels, and umbrellas, except that I'd love for them to be small and light (I'm weak!).


I'm also not sure what modifiers to pick up for using an on-camera flash, like a softbox (LumiQuest Softbox or Lastolite Ezybox?), the Gary Fong Lightsphere that everyone has, or something else (LumiQuest Quik Bounce?).


I will put some good rechargeable batteries (Eneloops?) into my budget, but is there anything else that I'm missing?


Also, I'm not in a hurry to pick any of this up, so are there any sites to keep an eye on for sales?


Thanks!

u/finaleclipse · 1 pointr/photography

You'd need these triggers to use the flash using TTL+HSS off-camera, the 603 triggers would work only for the 568 flashes in manual mode.

u/davidfromphila · 1 pointr/photography

I have the 6D and it focuses amazingly well, both for single shots and in AI Servo. If it's really dark, and I mean difficulty seeing your hand in front of your face, buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Trigger-580EXII/dp/B0090BSSZO and it will focus in pitch dark.

u/cookehMonstah · 1 pointr/photography

Looking for a somewhat cheap TTL Transmitter.

So I'm a nightlife photographer although it's somewhat more of a hobby. Anyway, I'm getting more into photographing bands and I'd like to buy a TTL Trigger so I can take my camera off flash and be more creative with my lightning.

I'm looking at these alternatives:

  • Cactus V6
  • Yongnuo YN622C + (maybe) Yongnuo YN622C-TX

    I always shoot using the following setup:

  • Canon EOS 60D
  • Canon 430EXII Flash
  • Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6

    Are these triggers any good? Should I be looking at any alternatives? Can they take a little bump (my camera does get hit occasionally). I am honestly more tempted towards the Yongnuo ones since they seem more compact.

    Thanks in advance!
u/dsa157 · 1 pointr/canon

This looks like it should work
https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Transmitter-Transceiver/dp/B0090BSSZO

different model from Yongnuo?

u/nilla-wafers · 1 pointr/photography

I used Yongnuo flash transceivers.. They've been reliable and they're sturdy as hell. I've had them fall onto concrete before from a height of 7 feet with no lost function.

For a cheap, third party product, they're built like tanks.

u/working_joe · 1 pointr/photocritique

You either need a radio trigger or a master flash. Buying a 580 just to use as a master flash is a waste of money. I recommend the Yongnuo 622C radio flash trigger. It's eTTL and HSS capable and has a very long working distance. You can also set up groups and ratios for multiple flashes if and when you want to create more advanced flash setups.

www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Receiver-Transmitter-Transceiver/dp/B0090BSSZO

u/krista_ · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

pics would help!


i use these little guys for a lot of things, including mounting my base stations, and i've never had any problems with them holding their grip.

u/AD7GD · 1 pointr/Vive

These are nicer than the Grifti ones:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSMCPKQ

u/i_post_things · 1 pointr/Vive

Like others, I've had the best success about doorway-height. Maybe about 6-8ft looking downwards. I have a pair of flash stands from doing photography, but you could pick up a cheap set of those that are at least 6ft

I also have mini clamps that I attach to the top of the door or to the stairs balusters when I'm downstairs:

  • Clamps like this
  • Or like this

    If you are really tight on space and cant use the flash stands, look into a pair of these, they are heavy-duty tension rods that go up to 12'.
u/argyyle_styyle · 1 pointr/photography

HEY! Thanks for the links! I took a look. It I want something to be more automatic, and basically just have the flash and camera figure it out for me, would you recommend the this, or this? Thanks again!

u/Eagle1337 · 1 pointr/photography

there were no instructions. but i think I get how it works, the 4 flaps should adhere to the flash via the velcro strip.
I presume something like this isn't worth it?

Same with this guy

the round guy I have is very hot spotty

u/Terryfrankkratos2 · 1 pointr/photography

Which lighting would look more natural, flash with a softbox pointed at the subject or a flash with a deflector attached "bouncing" at the subject?

---

I was thinking about getting a film camera and the N8008s seems like a good choice, but I don't have any Nikon lenses, can anyone recommend a good cheap 50mm that would work on it? It's ok if its manual.

---

In your opinion do you think a used GoPro Hero 2014 for like $60-$70 is worth it mainly for casual timelapses and some underwater footage?

u/filya · 1 pointr/photography

I am trying to setup a very beginner's studio in my basement. I have a 25 feet by 20 feet space (no windows) that I plan to use. Would this equipment work for me?

  1. Julius Studio 10 foot wide backdrop stand
  2. [Cowboy Studio 10x12 feet grey muslin cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCW6G0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) (Or for a small studio, should I go black or white instead?)
  3. Neewer 37" beehive octagon softbox (will this work with my Yongnuo 560 speedlight?)
  4. Neewer s-type holder with bowens mount (Does this fit the softbox?)
  5. Impact air-cushioned light stand 8' (And this will fit the holder?)

    Would love to hear opinions on these, and also if I am buying stuff that will work with each other.

    Thank you!
u/DisasterRuss · 1 pointr/Vive

I bought these SLFC New Tripod Camera Clip Clamp Flash Reflector Holder Mount for Studio Backdrop Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKDMG96/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hh8Gxb22JBZYB as they were recommended by someone on this Reddit. They work well for me and are sturdy.

u/Magikarpeles · 1 pointr/Vive

I like these as well, nice and cheep and there's usually somewhere to clamp them like shelves

Also gorilla pod knock offs are cheap as from hong kong

u/KaelathSeyth · 1 pointr/Vive

Something like this might be useful at least for mounting to your book case.
https://www.amazon.com/SLFC-Tripod-Camera-Reflector-Backdrop/dp/B00JKDMG96

u/NoGod4MeInNYC · 1 pointr/Vive

If you have shelves or any other clampable surface all over the room you want to put the lighthouses in, consider using this as a great solution for mounting the lighthouses https://www.amazon.com/SLFC-Tripod-Camera-Reflector-Backdrop/dp/B00JKDMG96/


its what i use and they work great

u/Eckerput · 1 pointr/oculus

This * 2 mounted on bookshelves about head height. PC and monitor are on top of the bookshelves between the two sensors.

u/krunchynoodlez · 1 pointr/photography

I recently got a Godox V860ii and am looking into getting an off camera flash setup for it.

What are the benefits of using a S-Type Bracket vs just using swivel mount? One is almost twice the cost of the other, and I'm willing to invest, but is there any other benefit besides the Bowen mount system for the link of the one I put below? Thanks!

Bowens S Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=s+bracket&qid=1565634775&s=electronics&sr=1-2

Swivel Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JRNNTG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AM5WHBW8CZ8MA&psc=1

u/AbunaiXD · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

$179 - 2 pack flash with trigger

Umbrellas you already own

$150 - Calumet backdrop stand kit

$26 - cowboy 2 pack studio light stands

$19 - Godox S bracket bowens mount flash mount

Total price for home studio = $393 + plus what ever you'll spend on a backdrop.

u/rideThe · 1 pointr/photography

A quick Google search confirms that it does—something like this perhaps? But that locks you into only ever being able to use it with Speedlights.

Wouldn't it be wiser to get a regular speedring and then add an optional speedlight bracket? Something like that, say. So if you wanted to use the softbox with a studio head eventually, you could.

u/mrdat · 1 pointr/photography

Get this and a bowens speedring and then this

u/StupidTinyFatUnicorn · 1 pointr/WeddingPhotography

I agree with the Godox route. Buy the Flashpoint branded ones from Adorama as they come with a warranty. I had one stopped (partially my fault, continuous excessive use of HSS) working and Adorama replaced it, no questions asked. Make sure they have "R2" in the name as that denotes their compatibility with the XPro trigger (which is fantastic by the way).

I had eight of the Yongnuo 600's last August, only two of them are working now and there's no way to get a warranty on them.

The Flashpoint Li-on R2 TTL is the "flagship" speedlight. It has a huge lithium-ion battery that rated for 650 full power pops. They recycle super quickly and don't start misfiring when the battery starts running low. They're also easier to charge and keep track of compared to dozens of Eneloops. When I had the Yongnuos, I would have to replace the OCF's batteries once during the reception, and my main on camera flash about twice. Now I can go 2-3 full weddings on one battery, I never had to replace one during a shoot. These can be used on camera as a master, or as an optical/radio slave. They can also control larger monolights (like the very cool AD200/Evolv 200).

There's also a non TTL version of the same speedlight but still with the benefits of the lithium ion battery.

Start off your investment off right instead of buying sub par equipment just to replace them later.

I also recommend these speedlight mounts. The normal speedlight mounts with the umbrella holder are fine but they're not super secure and you're putting all your trust on the speedlight's feet - I've had plenty of lights break and fall off stands that way. These clamp on to a large surface area of the flash and will keep it safe, it's also very easy to tell if your speedlight is secured on. The front is a bowens mount so you can literally put any bowens mount modifier on it. And if you get a bigger light like an AD200 or an AD360, these fit beautifully on it.

I've never heard of the light stands you mentioned, but the Amazon reviews look good and plentiful so you should be fine.

u/cutlerphoto · 1 pointr/photography

Food shoots I'm doing right now for an online delivery service require this setup:

-31" double diffused softbox

-Reflector (I use one with a handle so I can attach it to a weighted tripod and set it on a chair. Not the ideal setup currently, but it works.

-godox speedlight->bowens clamp mount

-white balance mini-reflector

-speedlight

-a7iii + Nikon 55mm 2.8 micro

-2x cloth napkins

-Moleskine notebook

-Extra speedlight

i could attach tripod to my bag and fit everything, though I prefer to just carry it. I use a tripod as a light stand because it folds up smaller.

all fits in my 30L

u/Cedira · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

I don't have my base stations permanently secured.

Instead, I bought a pair of these, but only used one of them, clamped to a bookcase.

On the other side of the room I have a basic camera tri-pod I bought over a decade ago sitting on a shelf with it's legs very close together and not extended very far.

u/cloudbreaker81 · 1 pointr/Vive

I'm using spring clamp mount. Works very well. Can clip on to all kinds of stuff. Got one on top of a small step ladder and the other on top of a wardrobe door. Have had perfect tracking even though they are at different heights. Cheap as well.

Phot-R Multi-Function Spring Clamp with 1/4" Screw Ball Head for DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_utnpxbT586DDH

u/CrateDane · 1 pointr/virtualreality

You can get clamps with ball joints, easier to work with and still fairly affordable. Like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item

u/contactgus · 1 pointr/Vive

Yes, those are the third hand poles that I didn't want to spend the money on, I didn't realise that they were not spring loaded. I was also thinking of the marks left by the pressure so I am considering using rubber pads on the feet. I have a pack of these lying around: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007J6VKU2
If I remove slippery part I'll be left with 4 thick rubber pads that I can use.

Of course it all depends on whether the poles themselves will be stable enough and I'm not feeling too confident :)

As for the camera mount itself, I bought something like the recommended ones in a local shop but the shop keeper also showed me something like this which might be useful for a temporary solution or for transferring to a seated area where the lighthouse doesn't have to be held up too high (on a shelf or something):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

If I do end up using command strips I might use a secondary command strip and somehow tie a leash between it and the main mount. I might do that anyway to have a secondary anchor

u/maxcovergold · 1 pointr/oculus

I was hoping for something less bulky that the following, but it might be the best option at under £5ea:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

u/nrosko · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

with these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 althogh i would gues i might need a better clamp than the clips if they are heavy.

u/dazzlerellis · 1 pointr/oculus

These worked well for me as I had some high shelfs so they clamp on to those no drilling required.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/philleeeeee · 1 pointr/Vive

I have my lighthouses set up with a pair of clamp mounts which lets me attach them to my bookcase and wardrobe without having to drill any holes in the walls.

edit: you just missed out on the recent 25% off steam sale for the Rick and Morty game sadly

u/Ndgtr · 1 pointr/H3VR

I'll give you a tip:

Extendable shower rods (or some other extendable pole of some kind), and something like these.

Wedge the shower poles between floor and ceiling, screw the base stations into the clamps, then fasten them onto the poles and adjust as required.

I've been using this method for over a month now and it works a treat.

 

I don't know how I found this post from a week ago either.

u/Kaschnatze · 1 pointr/Vive

If that's a 1/4" threading on the Vive Tracker, you could just buy a wide collar or harness, punch a hole in it, and screw something like this (Amazon Link) into it to attach the Tracker. Might want to shorten it a bit though.
The ideal way of integrating it would be an overlay that works in every VR application, similar to chaperone.


There's a chance that your pet will not like having a relatively heavy object attached to it though, and will try to remove it.

It would make more sense and be safer to put the pet in a different room though.

u/orion19k · 1 pointr/astrophotography

I'm planning a setup like that. My current plan is to use the QHY mini guidescope, adapt it to a holder with 1/4"-20 screws and mount it on this

And use a Raspberry Pi 3 + smartphone/tablet for control. Check this out: http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/551998-iastrohub-30-iot-for-astrophotography/

u/Blackb1rdy · 1 pointr/Nikon

Place a softbox attachment on your external flash to soften the light and make it easier on the people you shoot. I know you don't want a flash but this seems to help.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Diffuser-Speedlites/dp/B01ERRQ802/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1468882130&sr=8-10&keywords=flash+softbox

u/WHBN · 1 pointr/photography

Best flash diffuser for travel? I'm headed to Mexico with the family and am taking my D7100 and a Yongnuo flash / transmitter. Should I get a small softbox? A flash bender? Something else? I don't have a lot of experience with flash but I don't want super hard shadows on my subjects. Most of the pictures will probably be outside but there will be some inside as well. I'll be aiming for natural light where possible but want to come out with some nice family photos. Needs to be small. Thanks!

u/TheresShitInMyBucket · 1 pointr/photography

Ohhhh I missed that it was your photo. But yeah, aiming the flash directly at your model and getting it closer will definitely harshen the shadows. Something good to play around with is flash gels like these or any other brand and diffusers Like this. I think a yellow/gold gel with the flash above (at say, a 45 degree angle maybe) and pointing directly at your model will get a similar look to #1 and adding that diffuser would, in my opinion, reduce the negative qualities of that type of light quite a bit. Definitely mess with sharpening as well.

If it were me, I like your picture much more than #2, but to each their own of course!

u/cybertec69 · 1 pointr/Nikon

For macro this flash is all you will need "below", "there a cheaper alternatives out there, Amazon will give you a list, make sure they work with the camera you have before purchasing", it's on my macro lenses all the time, it does not mean though that I fire it off all the time "I set up one of the camera buttons that when pressed to dissable the flash from firing" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNUH5dCaLMU&list=PLDWvA0qQrZ290b_1j0f_t9Jfnu34TRJKx&t=0s&index=118 , if natural light is right there is no need, but if you want a nice sharp shot the more light the better "but don't overdue it". In the camera flash compensation settings your camera is set by default at 1/250s of a second, which means that you shutter speed will not exceed 1/250s of a second, I don't use this option, since I shoot in manual mode and like to control my shutter, f-stop, and EV settings myself, what you do is go into the Bracketing/flash exposure settings in your camera customs setting menu and change the Flash sync speed setting from 1/250s of a second to 1/250s (Auto FP), this will give you more creativity and help freeze the subject, which is crucial with insects that constantly move "the black wasp was shot at 1/500s shutter speed with no flash used", if you are new to using a flash just stick to 1/250s, then just experiment with the Auto PF mode until you figure out the right settings for the shooting conditions.

Sigma Ring Flash.

https://www.amazon.com/Sigma-EM-140-Macro-Flash-Cameras/dp/B00064XR64?crid=PZ3KQIEG7QCA&keywords=sigma+ring+flash&qid=1540808499&sprefix=sigma+ring%2Caps%2C127&sr=8-5-fkmrnull&ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_5

​

You can also use a regular flash with a small soft box "flash diffuser" attached.

https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802?crid=3SV90PE13KBH8&keywords=softbox+for+speedlight&qid=1540810590&sprefix=soft+box+%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-5&ref=sr_1_5

u/djscsi · 1 pointr/spiders

Yeah I've been thinking about making/buying something like that for using the pop-up flash when I don't have (or want to get out) the whole flash setup. Which honestly is fine for most field photography. I have a cheap collapsible softbox that I use with the flash and keep in my camera bag, but the lens-mounted one is probably better. Do you have a link for one of those?

u/thecysteinechapel · 1 pointr/Polaroid

I just recently bought a thread adapter so I could use various filters on my 195. I think the 49mm one you linked to would the wrong size. The 180, 190 and 195 use a 45mm, but apparently it's also a finer thread than normal. The Heliopan ones are supposedly one of the few compatible adapters you can use. After seeing it recommended by others, I got this one: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/160285-REG/Heliopan_700222_45mm_49mm_Step_Up.html

I can confirm it fits both the 180 and 195 perfectly fine (though I tried to be gentle and not screw it in too tight). That LED ring light you linked to looks like it comes with a 49mm adapter already, but if you did want a 55mm thread, it looks like they do make a 45mm-55mm (hopefully it's designed the same way).

I'm pretty sure I have that same ring light for my DSLR, too. It works well for continuous lighting on macro shots, but I've never actually used the flash mode so I can't really comment on how powerful it is. The setup should work, but another option would be to just put a diffuser on a regular electronic flash like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Altura-Photo-Universal-Collapsible-Speedlight/dp/B01ERRQ802

u/keanex · 1 pointr/photography

So any external flash is going to be pretty bright on a snap and might make people uncomfortable. I really wouldn't recommend using an external flash in a place of business unless you've been given the okay to do so.

With that said, I'm not your mom so do what you want. Here's what you'll likely be looking for though: Yongnuo YN560IV flash, Yongnuo 560TX transmitter, and some sort of flash diffuser box like this.

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

I am trying to do a complete carry-on ultra-lightweight interview kit. So I'm an old guy, and not a big guy. But I wanted something I could single-handedly carry on a plane, on a bus, in a cab, as a pedestrian. It should be no more than two cases and I should be able to carry them in one hand while carrying a personal bag in the other. It had to be everything needed for talking head interviews including lights, camera and sound. That means my setup is much more restrictive than yours, but it works. This effort is based on doing quite a few films in Europe using only what I could carry.

Nothing I could find really made it easy. The biggest problem has been powering options, so I made the decision that it had to be small fixtures that could be used close to the subject with reasonable running time. Everything had to be battery-powered no cables or outboard power supplies were needed.

I bring 3 lights and 3 stands. This light is a fairly soft key, adjustable, 18-watts, built-in rechargeable battery. Then I have three of these very small point-source lights, (also with built-in batteries and they come with a variety of gels). One of these is used as a backlight, another for possible light for a background. Add these for mounting one or two of these Lowel umbrellas. These turn the point-lights into a nice, soft fill. Each of these lights will run 60 minutes or more at full power, much longer if reduced. Also, running time can be extended with a couple of these. I can get nice exposure and shallow depth-of-field at ISO 400 or 800. (Double or quadruple operating time at ISO 1600.)

Amazon has this light case that is checkable and can hold this lightweight Velbon tripod with a fluid head plus three or even four of these Neewer stands plus some gels and a small roll of gaffer tape.

My camera case is a small older one with a Nikon label. It holds my Panasonic GH4 or GH5 with 12-60mm lens plus 3 batteries and a USB-powered charger. There's also room for all the lights, an iPad, and a 4-port USB charger, which charges everything.

And...(are you ready for this?) the sound is in this kit, too. The secret here is the PicoGear PicoMic dual wireless mic system. This thing really does what it claims: two wireless mics with good range and run all day and the whole system goes in your pocket, plus the bonus of no body pack or cables to hide.

I'd appreciate your comments.

u/ReverserMover · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

Not the other guy, but for $200 or just over, you can get really good images.

What you need:

u/lukemoyerphotography · 1 pointr/photography

Theres also a lens-warmer that you can attach through the usb port in your camera. Heres one on amazon for about $20
PROTAGE Condensation Prevention Lens Heater Evening dew Remover USB Warmer P-LH02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X18JND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3otJBbFSTKFT2

u/Ginger-Nerd · 1 pointr/photography

I went to a talk by a prominant local landscape photographer - He swore by these heated sleeve for his lenses to prevent it from fogging (and believed they would clear fog fairly quickly - so he didn't have to worry about temperature in his car etc - or waiting for the temperature to equalize)

something like this

he swore by it (and I know a few people who went to the talk did buy some afterwards and have had similar success)

does require a portable battery however - which can be annoying if you need the camera to be more movable; but if you were say setting up tripods etc, its not tooo bad.

u/wolphcry · 1 pointr/Astronomy

Not sure about a telescope tracking electronics but my Camera does fine when this happens. It’s a common problem when photographing Aurora here in Alaska. To keep the lens clear they make [usb lens heaters ](PROTAGE Condensation Prevention Lens Heater Evening Dew Remover USB Warmer P-LH02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073X18JND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hmxZDb9YG664K). Might work on the main mirror but not sure how you would keep the others ice free. My camera does fine to about -30°F then starts acting up.

u/breddy · 0 pointsr/photography

I just bought these and they work perfectly at around 1/10 the cost of Pocket Wizards (no TTL though). Just starting to experiment with off-camera lighting myself.

u/nikki2172 · 0 pointsr/photography

I have a Canon 6D with a super cheap CowboyStudio Hot Shoe Flash Trigger (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W3IXZW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

I currently have the receiver attached to the sync cord that came with the AB and the transmitter attached to the camera.

I'm getting the same effect whether I have a slow shutter or fast shutter. I researched that the max sync for the 6D is 1/180 but it is still not producing any results having a shutter speed at or below 180. I tried a shutter speed as low as 1/6 and it was only lit by ambient light in the room.

u/jgfoto · 0 pointsr/AskPhotography

You could set your self up pretty good with $500. I have a couple suggestions, but the first would be to get yourself a cheap prime lens first. Either a 50mm 1.8 or a 24mm pancake. Both are around $100 and would still leave quite a bit in your budget. So, saying you go ahead and do that:


  • You could get a couple of Yongnuo 560 IV
    You could choose to fire then optically with your Canon speed lite or get one of these
  • Grab a few of these to hold your flashes
  • And a few of theseto stand them up
  • In terms of modifiers you have a few options. You could go with cheap umbrellas which are fine. Or you could get some small soft boxes. I say just grab a huge modifier. As big as you can get. It's gonna really depends on how much space you have. check this out

    That's a decent, portable, and effective setup with two lenses for right about $500.

    Since your using someone else's studio lugging equipment is gonna be a pain. That's why I think speed lights is the way to go. But if you don't mind, look into a monolight kit. For your portraits I really do think you'll like what you get from a fast prime lens.
u/d4m1en · 0 pointsr/photography

Artificial lighting is the best and easiest way to make great, professional-looking portraits.

Are you sure you can't afford a speedlite ? You don't need an expensive name-brand one. A basic speedlite is $35. Get two of those, a basic radio control, some flash brackets, one more basic umbrella and you have yourself a portrait lighting kit for $100.

The only limitations will be that this kit won't take heavy use, and the flash won't do TTL (you have to set the power manually, which you want to do for off-camera flash anyway).

Finally, read strobist tutorial and you are now good to go and make great portraits.

u/patrickstarfishh · 0 pointsr/Vive

I bought something similar to those light stands, but didn't like them....they "cut" into your roomscale zone, and they can not be as sturdy as you really want them to be (the lighthouses shouldn't move even the slightest bit).

I kept them for when i take my vive somewhere else and use as a portable solution. After some research, I use these now and love them...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F3B4YPS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and for actually holding the lighthouse onto the pole...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CSMCPKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

those are totally metal, and worth the slight extra price compared to plastic ones (but you could probably save a little money with the plastic ones).

those poles are great and easy to move too!

hope it helps, and you made the right choice w/ vive, it's the superior HMD by far.