Best camera & photo accessories according to redditors

We found 44,558 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & photo accessories. We ranked the 13,571 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Camera accessories
Camera bags & cases
Camera flashes
Digital cameras
Camcorder & camera lenses
Camera tripods & monopods
Binoculars, telescopes & optics
Photo printers & scanners
Photo projectors
Underwater photo products
Film cameras & accessories
Action cameras
Camera & photo lighting
Security cameras

Top Reddit comments about Camera & Photo:

u/throwmeawayjno · 230 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

How long until you move?

Do you have the funds to pick up this?

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Works with Alexa

It'll do the job. You can keep it pointed at your door at all times and then you don't have to worry about remembering your camera.

If possible, have DH send her a text starting she is not welcome at your house and to not come by again or you will call the police. Save it for proof that she was told. Or if you haven't been talking to her at all, send a cease and desist via your lawyer.

When she comes by again, immediately call the cops.

u/structuralbiology · 109 pointsr/Tinder

For that blurred background look, you can get a prime lens on your dSLR. The cheap ones are great, and they make you look like a million bucks.

MIT actually did a study that confirms OP's hypothesis, by the way. It's not just that it's an interesting picture. The top 5% of men had more than double the success of the next top 5%. Researchers called this the superstar effect.

u/Kr_Treefrog2 · 107 pointsr/entitledparents

Keep a close eye on that bike, it’s likely to turn up “found” again if it’s ever left unsupervised. Mark it somehow with a unique identifier that isn’t obvious, like something on the underside of the seat or bottom of the frame. Take a picture of the bike and identifier and keep the receipt. If you do end up hanging it in the garage, try to find a way to lock it up in case the kid or mom “finds” it in your open garage.

Sad to say, but you’ve just made an enemy, and since we know that it’s all your fault she got arrested, expect revenge for your misdeeds. I know you said money is tight, but invest in security cameras to overlook your front and back yard if you can. I’ve heard good things about the Wyze Cam - affordable, good night vision, keeps up to 14 days of footage, controlled via a free app. Keep in mind you’ll want to get a weatherproof case if you plan to put it outside.

u/chelsea-vong · 91 pointsr/homeowners

Agreed. You can get a camera on Amazon for $25. I have the same one and it works great. Catch the little shit in the act, lol.

u/buttscratcha · 83 pointsr/itookapicture

Thanks! I shot it with the 50mm 1.8, at 2.2 and 1/200s exposure.

u/redhandfilms · 57 pointsr/3Dprinting

Wyze Cam. A $25 wifi camera you can watch through an app.

I'm watching my print right now while I'm away at work. I also have a wifi outlet that will allow me to cut power to the printer if anything goes wrong.

u/FumbledAgain · 54 pointsr/Vive

I made this guide because the selection for bags that actually fit the HTC Vive well are either poorly constructed, overpriced, or both. The only case actually intended for the Vive I could find was this overpriced monstrocity, and this, even more overpriced, even larger monstrocity. So I did some digging, tried out a few things, and made this guide.

Links to everything in this guide:

u/Grays42 · 53 pointsr/technology

The tent is pretty useless unless you are only interested in a tiny spot of sky. The mirror isn't an observatory at all, just a way to kinda be lazy and decide you'd like to look through the imperfections of a non-optically-polished surface while looking at the sky. It'd honestly be easier just to inflate a small kiddy pool and lay back in it to support your head. (Binocular astronomy is really awesome, by the way. Buy a $50-$70 pair of wide-aperture binoculars and a copy of Left Turn at Orion, and you'd be floored by all the cool stuff you can see at night!)

The shed-looking observatory is pretty standard, it's one of a number of roll-away model observatories, of which this one is my favorite. Wide, shallow, plenty of room, plenty of sky. The one in the instructable is a bit tall and cuts off a ton of sky unless you're using a schmidt-cassegrain on a tall tripod, but if you're using a Dobsonian (which pivots much closer to the ground than a SCT), you've lost most of the sky.

u/JamesMcGillEsq · 50 pointsr/homedefense

Motion. Activated. Lights.

Put a set on every side of your house.

Additionally these are ~$25.99 a piece and while they aren't the most awesome cameras in the world, they more than do the trick:

If you're looking to spend a bit more money I'd recommend Unifi or Blink depending on your technical ability.

u/zangor · 47 pointsr/magicTCG

If you want to invest $14 into a device that will always tell you if a card is fake or not there is a Carson Microbrite.

You can look at the green mana symbol on the back of the card and a fake card will have a scattered red dot pattern. While a real card will have a L made of 4 red dots. The example picture is one I took with my own phone through the Microbrite.

u/badon_ · 46 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

> This is for a simple analog wall clock, so I’ll go out and get AAs once it starts to get out of time.

Get rechargeable AA batteries next time. I recommend you get these ones (make sure your battery specifications match the packaging in this photo):

u/Shinji246 · 46 pointsr/SweatyPalms

Get yourself a Wyze camera, I was having noises outside of my window and this was incredibly easy to setup and super cheap and it auto-detects motion and records a 12 second clip. I set mine up outside under an awning and it's been working flawlessly for about a week now.

u/Gundersniff · 45 pointsr/xboxone

Get Eneloops, they're the best.

u/Anonnymoose73 · 42 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

My husband found super cheap 24 hour cams with sound and color. The Wyze cam is like 30 bucks, works great and has an outdoor housing for about 15. We use one as a baby monitor and have the other in our driveway.

ETA: it also has infrared for night

u/EpistemicFaithCrisis · 38 pointsr/photography

You're thinking exactly correctly. That's one of the reasons why Nikon has a (relatively) cheap 35mm f/1.8 prime for DX.

u/SHROOMHEAD666 · 37 pointsr/Assistance

You should look into Wyze. Substantially cheaper (I think I got 5 for $100 or singles for $20 - $25) and they have the same features such as viewing on your phone from anywhere, microphone, takes/stores pictures, takes/stores videos, HD, and night vision

Edit: This is the one I use

u/Xidium426 · 35 pointsr/EntitledBitch


Put a 32GB MicroSD card and set it to always record and you will have around 3 days of 24x7 footage. Get yourself on camera telling her if she comes on your property again you will press charges for trespassing (these record audio) and if she comes again report it to the cops.

u/SarcasticOptimist · 35 pointsr/EngineeringStudents

Multimeter (Fluke 115 is slightly over budget, TekPower TP9605BT has smartphone integration)

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Iron (IIRC, Louis Rossmann uses this)

HP Scientific Calculators (RPN, tactile feedback, but also a battery hog, buy rechargeables).

Casio FX-115S (most powerful calc for FE Exam)

BLF A6 flashlight (quite programmable and modifiable)

Raspberry Pi

Pluggable microscope

Technical pens.

u/link_4_the_lazy · 30 pointsr/videos
u/johansolo · 28 pointsr/Parenting

Being able to peek in has been a godsend. You can get a cheapo sound monitor as well, but I think you will appreciate the video.

BTW: We use one of these: and downloaded a free IP cam viewer on our phones/tablets. Much cheaper than getting one of the dedicated baby video cameras with their own proprietary monitor things, plus once the kids are older and don't require the monitoring, it can easily become a security cam for the house.

u/MaximumDoughnut · 26 pointsr/Edmonton

I recommend the Wyze Cam. They're cheap but they work just as well as the Nest and others. I'm sorry this happened to you, OP

u/loveinlilacs · 25 pointsr/dogs

I'm really glad that you are okay and that the police were helpful. I haven't read through every comment on here but I have two recommendations.

1: often times, protective or restraining orders aren't put into action until you *explicitly* tell the person to stop contacting you. I know you haven't responded to him or anything but it might be a good idea to have it, in writing, that you told him to stop contacting you. You don't need to respond to anything he has said or done other than: "This is me telling you to stop contacting me, do not come to my house, place of work, classroom, etc., or I will be contacting the police" Then save *EVERY* contact attempt he has done/will do from there. Save it on multiple platforms in case you lose your phone, etc. So either send it to someone or save it on a computer (not your email because if your phone goes missing, it could easily be deleted from your email).

2. I saw some people have suggested cameras which I highly recommend. It sounds like you might be a student and I know the budget might be tight. My SO and I got these cheap cameras to just monitor our dog during the day. You can go in a view them at any time and they also record 12 seconds of video whenever they detect motion. If you have a place to put one towards your door or outside of your apartment, I highly recommend it. It not only saves the videos, but you could also see someone coming before they are there.

ETA: there is an app associated with the cameras and you can have notifications sent right to your phone anytime something is picked up.

Also - give your dog all the head scratches and steaks tonight. Stay safe

u/Drewdog24 · 24 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Wyze camera. you are being recorded.

u/slipperyp · 24 pointsr/space

Some people are looking for suggestions. I second the suggestion and I have a pair of these that work well for me.

  • Good reach (magnification) - suitable for most things I'll see with my 6" schmidt cassegrain
  • Tripod attachment is important - for looking at just about anything, it's much nicer to have the stabilization of the tripod. Also, it's nice to be able to "point" them at something and have another person look through (last night I went out with my 3 year old daughter and showed her Venus and Mars - otherwise she would have needed to try to find them and hold the binoculars steady enough to be able to see them herself)

    (edit: formatting)
u/xyzzzzy · 23 pointsr/homesecurity

This is a scary situation. I would recommend involving law enforcement to the extent that you can, if you can do any more than you already have.

Besides that, first priority is perimeter hardening. Cameras may provide some deterrent but won’t protect you if someone comes for you. I know it’s a rental but maybe you could convince the landlord that these are upgrades done at your own expense. Or just don’t tell. Reinforced door jamb

Door Armor MAX - Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate - DIY Home Door Security - Aged Bronze

Upgrade to steel door or similar if your door is not strong.

Add security film to the windows

BDF S4MC Window Film Security and Safety Clear 4 Mil (24in X 13ft)

Next, I would also add a security system with door/window sensors that sets off a siren when triggered. There are many, Ring is a popular DIY currently

Ring Alarm 5 Piece Kit - Home Security System with optional 24/7 Professional Monitoring - No long-term contracts - Works with Alexa

I would recommend paying for professional monitoring at least for a couple months so that it calls law enforcement for you

Next sleep with a pepper spray of your choice beside your bed. I like this one

SABRE Red Pepper Gel - Police Strength - Family, Home & Property Defense Gel with Wall Mount Bracket

AFTER you have done these things, yes add a camera or two. Might provide some deterrent, might help you go after them if they do property damage. Wyze cams are cheap and decent. Will need an outdoor housing if installing outdoors.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant

Good luck, be safe

u/thanktesfaye · 22 pointsr/ballpython

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant

it’s honestly amazing. quality product for the price!

u/astroprof · 22 pointsr/space

The best "telescope" in that range is a pair of binoculars. Anything else is more likely to cause someone to be turned away from astronomy.

These are $56 at amazon right now (normally $90). Get those and a decent tripod (the binoculars are a little heavy), and the total price should be well under 100 pounds.

u/PyroConduit · 21 pointsr/magicTCG

This bag has been recomended more than once to people on here so I gotta think its popular.

u/twistedstrain · 20 pointsr/microgrowery

Thank you. Its this one

Pretty damn good for 35 bucks id say. The flex part is metal, and the suction cup is really sturdy. No need to hold it in your hand and try to be super steady, or take "bud samples". I just suction cup it to the wall next to the plant, push it up against a bud and then adjust the focus ring. It also has adjustable LED lights, and the software is excellent. Its probably made in China, but the software and tech support is all american, and very legit

u/5fingerdiscounts · 20 pointsr/NanoGrowery

Saved this comment from a fella in micro grocery to start my set up

These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.

Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: Read this guide too:


• ⁠Grow Tent: 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft is the size you'd probably want. This is the one I bought:
• ⁠Light: This light is a fantastic LED quantum board that is very easy to assemble - I got the 3000K one with the epistar
• ⁠Fabric Pots: Head to Amazon and grab yourself a 5-pack of 7 gallon fabric pots
• ⁠Also get yourself a saucer (you can get this at any garden store) and a pot elevator for each pot (pot elevator example:
• ⁠Soil: Get yourself a bail of Pro Mix HP with mycorrhizae (it's cheap, reliable, and hard to overwater) from Canadian Tire, Rona, any store really and get also a bag of earthworm castings. Cover the bottom of your fabric pot with the castings (2-3 inches deep)
• ⁠Nutrients: Gaia Green Dry Amendments (All Purpose and Power Bloom) Mix the All Purpose in with your Pro-Mix HP and then top dress your "soil" every month, changing it to Power Bloom during flowering
• ⁠Ventilation: Get the AC Infinity Cloudline T4 - it's absolutely worth it. Then purchase a 4-inch carbon filter and 4 inch tubing from Amazon (branding doesn't matter for these two things)
• ⁠Timer: You can go cheap on this, but also consider a smart timer (like a Wemo)
• ⁠Seeds: - Canadian breeder, amazing beans, amazing price! Go with feminized seeds for your first round.

Extra accessories

• ⁠Pruning shears (seperate ones for trimming live plants and ones for harvesting)
• ⁠a lighter (for sanitizing)
• ⁠a set of tweezers, for planting your sprouted seed
• ⁠some garden gloves
• ⁠rope ratchets for your lights
• ⁠zips ties for protecting things
• ⁠binder clips (for low stress training)
• ⁠plant ties (soft rubber and wire kind)
• ⁠watering can
• ⁠two pairs of measuring spoons for dry amendments
• ⁠a clip on fan and rotating fan (for air circulation over and under the canopy)
• ⁠markers and a pack of tag plant markers for identifying plants
• ⁠soil moisture
• ⁠paper towels (for germination)
• ⁠Bucket Head Wet Dry Vacuum Powerhead Lid for 19 Litre (5 Gal.) Multi-Use Buckets great for gathering up the excess water and tipped soil)
• ⁠3 five gallon buckets (1 for the buckethead vacuum and 2 for extra water reservoirs) and two lids
• ⁠3 surge protector power bars
• ⁠Various AC power extension cables
• ⁠1 trellis net (for ScrOG training)
• ⁠USB microscrope (used to check the trichomes at harvest - if you want you can also get an adapter so it plugs directly into your smartphone, as opposed to plugging it into a computer)
• ⁠62% Boveda packs for curing
• ⁠Mason jars for curing and storage
• ⁠hanging rack for drying (you can substitute this for a hanger and some plant ties)
• ⁠Duct tape

It's a little more expensive at the start, but this setup will pay for itself within two harvests. With this setup you can expect to yield between 8 to 12 oz every run, once you grow accustomed to the cycle.

u/webdeveric · 19 pointsr/photography

The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II does a good job and is really cheap.

u/MjrGrangerDanger · 18 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

Wyze cams are very cheap and reliable as well as highly reccomended. There's a r/wyzecam, because of course there is, LOL...

Wyze Cams are incredibly affordable:

Pan & Zoom model $37.98

Wyze Cam V2 $25.98 plus 20% off now

The cameras are made for indoor use only use only, however can be mounted outside with a skin purchased separately. Both models have birdhouse skins (links below) but they're not as invisible as the ideas posted on the Wyze forum and subreddit.

I also came across this great post on the Wyze Cam Forum to add an extra layer of protection againdt the elements using a trimmed balloon. Lots of ideas for hiding in plain sight.

Pan & Zoom - $13.99

Wyze Cam V2 Birdhouse Suction Cup Mount $12.99 / 1 or $18.99 / 2

I hope this helps!

u/kragain · 18 pointsr/TheGirlSurvivalGuide

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Works with Alexa

These cameras work well and aren't terribly expensive

u/Fadeo · 18 pointsr/pics

Here are some good beginner Binoculars

u/crazymutherfucker · 18 pointsr/EDC

My Name is Ian, or CMF Metalworks, and I am a full time Knife maker. I do carry everything pictured every day.

Item 1: UE Boom 2

Item 2:Sony a6000 camera

Item 3:Blue Loctite 242

Item 4:Leatherman Sidekick- Easily my most useful tool.

Item 4:Spyderco Rubicon in S30v

Item 5: Spyderco Nirvana with a custom Mokuti clip i made.

Item 6: Ares tool kit, its okay for the price, but it has some bits i use a lot so it makes the cut.

Item 7: WIha Driver set. Best you can buy.

Item 8: 10 weight nano oil

item 9:Krazy glue

Item 10:GO PRO hero 4 silver

Item 11: Wiha 65 piece tool kit. Its like a container of magic.

Item 12: Godspeedtactical Hanky

Item 13: Macbook pro Early 2016

Item 14:GDOK EX10 inlay version Midtech Balisong

Item 15: Maxpedition Backpack

u/vicious_armbar · 17 pointsr/TheRedPill

Record your sexual encounters and save the videos. At least for the first couple of times. You can get an excellent indoor security camera with free cloud storage for $25 delivered. By way of comparison a good criminal law attorney charges $300 per hour. A similar camera recently saved these porn producers from false rape charges. The second link is NSFW!!!

u/odd_affilliate_link · 17 pointsr/photography

I would say you can't go wrong with a D7000 body paired with a 35mm 1.8. That's exactly your budget and the D7000 allows you to use pretty much any old Nikon lens you can find. If you want more lenses, scout Craigslist (I've found some extremely good deals there). Kit 18-55s can be had for dirt cheap, as well as the ubiquitous 50mm. Depending on what you want to shoot, your lens preference my vary, though the 35mm is pretty much all-around fantastic especially for the price.

Others might say to use more of the budget on the lenses and less on the body but I find the handling of the D7000 to be so far superior to the 'lesser' models that it would be worth it (to me). I like having 2 dials and an LCD on the top of the camera. In addition, a D7000 + 35mm 1.8 is not a large kit as DSLRs go, so if you don't want to carry around a huge chunk of gear, that is a factor.

Edit: D90 is another decent choice, but I feel that sensor tech (particularly high ISO quality) has advanced enough between the D90 and D7000 that the D7000 is a much better (though more expensive) choice.

u/Daehder · 17 pointsr/Nerf

Assuming you are referring to 9V batteries like these, that will actually be a downgrade from normal AA cells, as 9 V batteries are actually a 6 pack of AAAA batteries.

While the voltage sound like it would be higher, AAAA are even worse than AA cells at delivering current, which is what is responsible for spinning motors up to speed. Thus, the motors will spin up even slower, and the voltage will sag massively.


If you intend to run that extra foot of Faux barrel, you'll pretty much need to rewire for a lipo or NiMH pack to get any reasonable performance.

If you are just looking for a no-effort mod, Eneloops are the safest way to do so. Their much higher current capabilities mean that they'll outperform even D alkaline cells, which are what Hasbro use to power their more powerful blasters, and they're pretty inexpensive to boot

u/jordanmunson · 16 pointsr/magicTCG

There’s an Amazon Basics bag for cameras that has worked wonderfully for me. This looks like a newer, cheaper model of it: AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR/DSLR Camera and Accessories - 11 x 6 x 15 Inches, Black

Edit: here is the exact one I have: AmazonBasics DSLR Camera and Laptop Backpack Bag - 13 x 9 x 18 Inches, Black And Orange

u/EveryNightIWatch · 16 pointsr/Portland

To add on to this, if you're getting home deliveries you should get a $25 Wyze cam and point it at your front porch. They provide 14 days of free cloud storage of the motion-activated videos.

If you're concerned about privacy issues, install it outside.

There's a bunch of inexpensive home cameras, but Wyze is fine.

u/iggyfenton · 16 pointsr/photography

Here are lenses I suggest: (I shoot Canon, but you can find these focal lengths and aperture in any brand.)

If you don't have a Nifty Fifty, get one today.

This is the cheapest lens you can buy and it's great. Easily the best buy in lenses.

For indoor closer photos: 85mm f1.8

I use this for basketball. It will help you freeze the action by having a faster shutter speed. I shoot canon and I find that the lens performs best at f2 not wide open at f1.8

You also need to buy a 70-200 f2.8

This is a real go-to lens for sports. I carry it on my side for everything I shoot and I use it as a primary for many sports as well.

If you want me to give you some tips on your composition and shooting let me know. I have some notes on these images that can make them better in the future.

u/PlasmaHeat · 16 pointsr/trees
u/DashingLeech · 16 pointsr/gadgets

Foscam FI8910W, $78 USD. Make sure to get black, not white. (The white has an annoying blinking green LED inside that you can see through the white plastic in the dark and is annoying.)

We're using it as a baby monitor but I also had it set to record and email me photos (and text alarm) when it saw motion while we were on vacation. It can do pan-tilt patrolling too. It is excellent IR in the dark and good colour with lights on. It has a built-in server, audio, microphone, wireless, audio in and out as well if needed, mounting system, and is supported in most surveillance software including on Android, iOS, and Blackberry.

u/[deleted] · 16 pointsr/askscience

I picked up these recently (for $20 more) and I love them. They are impressively large, and I can see the moons of Jupiter on any clear day, and I live in a highly populated area with tons of pollution.

u/odd_affiliate_link · 15 pointsr/photography

I suggest the D7000 - I really like mine. The ergonomics (aside from the ISO button placement) are fantastic, and it feels very well made. I had some lenses already, but if you nave no lenses, I would go with the kit w/18-105mm lens and add the excellent 35mm 1.8. Also keep a sharp eye out for used lenses on Craigslist - The D7000 can use pretty much any old Nikon lens.

I was given an old Quantaray Vivitar 70-210mm 3.5 that would not meter on a friend's D50 but works great on the D7000. It isn't the best lens, but it is very fun to play with and has a macro mode.

Regarding lenses, some people will tell you to skip the kit lens and just go with primes. I disagree. Primes are great, but for someone who is just starting out and getting a feel for a 'real' camera, a decent zoom is great. 18-105mm is a huge range, so it should give you an idea of what focal lengths you like after using it a bit.

Edit: Fixed lens manufacturer mentioned above.

u/loserfame · 15 pointsr/videography

I would purchase things that are relatively affordable (this tascam lav works great with auto levels and is totally worth the money) and rent things like lenses (and camera if you don't have something that's decent) that you'll definitely need but are a large upfront cost.

My essential gear would include:

  • Camera (needs to be HD, but you don't need a $3k camera if you're just starting out.)

  • Lenses- at least a wide and a decent zoom. For us, we just run a Canon 24-105 for most of the day (it's a beast of a lens and you can almost get away with only that) but it's also good to have something like a 70-200 so you can get closer shots if/when you're at the back of the ceremony. You can definitely rent these, and they're probably the best thing to rent starting out.

  • Tripod and monopod. I would have a tripod just to be able to be locked down for the ceremony (sometimes it's exhausting trying to keep a monopod stable for a 30+ min ceremony) and run the monopod the rest of the day. Benro make a decently affordable monopod or you can go with this Manfrotto monopod. We have two of the Manfrottos and they are the best. I can't speak for the quality of the Benro because I haven't used their monopod, but they have a great warranty and great customer service on their stuff.

  • A video light. You will absolutely need a light on your camera. I've been in ceremonies and receptions that seemed like they were barely candle lit. You will probably never run a light during a ceremony but you'll definitely need it during receptions. Luckily LED lights are cheap these days. Something like this light or even this little light will be fine starting out. I run that cheap little light with the included orange filter on it almost every wedding and it works great.

  • Microphones. You should have one on camera mic (for ambient noise for the whole day) and one lav mic (for the groom during the ceremony).

  • Audio recorder. I would definitely have this along with some different cables. You can buy cheap cables for now from Monoprice or something. A recorder like this tascam will probably be fine for now.

    I also want to add- DO NOT BE AFRAID TO BUY USED GEAR especially from Adorama or B&H as long as it's listed in good condition. Everything I've bought used from those companies (when listed in good condition) has felt brand new.

    As far as advertising- the only thing I've seen really work for people is showing up to those Bridal shows and handing out cards and just talking to people. Besides that it's just word of mouth. But you'll need work to show potential brides. If you have never shot a wedding, I would reach out to wedding coordinators on WeddingWire/The knot/ anywhere you can and offer your services for free for one wedding. We did this and it was how we got started. Now I probably messaged 30+ coordinators and only one responded, but we built a great relationship with her and got our first 5+ weddings that way. The way I worded it was basically "we'd like to film a wedding for someone who did not intend to have a videographer (i.e wasn't in their budget at all). We want them to be aware that this is our first wedding and we do know how it will turn out."

    Anyway, I'm really rambling here. Hope this info was helpful. We've been shooting weddings for the last 3 years- so long enough to know what we're talking about but short enough to remember how we started and what we did wrong.
u/BirdSchool · 14 pointsr/magicTCG

From the Professor at Tolarian Community College's most recent video: This Camera Backpack or this Parts Organizer work very well. I have the parts organizer which I currently use to carry 9 commander decks in UltraPro 100+ Deckboxes, the Explorers of Ixalan Tiles, and my Oversized cards (Planechase, Archenemy). I've been considering attaching a playmat tube to the side of the case with zip ties.

u/AngryAnuses · 14 pointsr/gopro

I bought this light and put it on this bracket. The GoPro is attached with a tripod mount. I had to file part of the mounting piece on the light to make it fit on the bracket.

u/ArchangelOX · 14 pointsr/mtgfinance

Carson microBrite Pocket Microscope...thing is legit and only 13 dollars. you can even put your cellphone camera to the viewing aperture to take pictures of the image, no flash needed. My goto fake card checker.

u/NunsOnFire · 14 pointsr/xboxone

If cats are a hazard to charging wires, I suggest luring them into a room in the house that no one will use for a short while (cat food and their favorite toys usually does the trick. they'll be a little skeptical at first but they'll nestle in to the strange room quickly), lock them in the door ensuring that the cats have no exits at all in there, even emergency exits, step 5: turn on the carbon monoxide displacer you installed earlier and routed to that room in specific (it is the silent killer after all or whatever), finally explain to everyone the tragedy of finding your cats dead on the floor, maybe even include a bloody knife into the equation suggesting gang-related cat on cat violence (you're lying at this point; it was you who killed them). With them gone you can now safely own a charging dock for your Xbox One controllers. You can even get two.

If that's too complicated them I would suggest looking into rechargeable batteries with their own separate charger for the wall outlet, no wires at all here.

This product is a favorite of the subreddit.

u/PDXPayback · 14 pointsr/legaladviceofftopic

Give Wyzecam a look, they're only $25 via amazon (, and work pretty well, just should add a Micro-SD card for continuous recording.

u/drgojirax · 14 pointsr/MorbidReality

I use this one to watch my pets when I'm away.

u/nanan00 · 13 pointsr/gaming
u/aooot · 13 pointsr/AskNYC

If you have amazon prime I'd recommend a cheap camera to help with anxiety. This way you can see just how often they come in, and if you have any issues with them coming in unauthorized, any harassment, etc, you have recorded proof -

u/concord72 · 12 pointsr/xboxone

Get this Eneloop kit instead, so much better and more versatile.

u/Spectavi · 12 pointsr/photography

I'd suggest something like the Sony A6000. There are newer models out like the A6300 or A6500 but those start to get much pricier and there's nothing wrong with the A6000. It's APS-C so image quality is great and there is decent lens selection. You can snag one on Amazon with a 16-50 for $550 or get the 2 lens kit that also comes with the 55-210 for $695.

I'm sure others more familiar with that price range will chime in shortly, but that'd be my recommendation on where to start looking.

u/k701 · 11 pointsr/oculus

Today my second mounting clamp and rod came in. After trying several heights and angles, and testing with the desk demo I found that tracking was perfect from top to bottom except when facing the very edge of my bottom left room corner while my hands are in front of me. In which case my body completely covers my motion controllers and a third camera would still not be able to help since my room is too small /cluttered to cover that specific angle. The biggest thing that helped was NOT mounting the cameras as high as possible, as it is suggested by some users. The higher they are, the farther away they are, and being cameras and limited by resolution, being too far away (too high) results in jitter/unstable tracking. I ended up mounting them at about 7 feet high. I suggest a rod/clamp solution as it allows you to quickly test and make small adjustments, and using this setup allows you to move the cameras in every way possible (6 degrees of freedom). Here is the exact rod and clamp I'm using for those interested. Obviously any similar rod/clamp will work.

u/pleasehelpwaterfloor · 11 pointsr/microgrowery

Fellow canuck! Welcome!

These are suggestions - feel free to ask more questions if you need anything.

Read this guide - I wish I had had something like this when I started: Read this guide too:


u/edgyteenthrowaway0 · 11 pointsr/MacroLab3D

I know this is late, but I'll answer anyway. I'm a 14-year-old. A few months ago I did chores and saved for a compound microscope. It is my prized possession and has inspired me to dabble in AP biology on my own time. I believe if your child is already inspired by the wonderful world of microscopy, the type does not matter, as long as it works well. Although, if you combine it with slides and accessories/stains to prepare your own slides, your child could learn more about lab skills. This would be ideal for kids who can be delicate with such instrument, as microscopes of any kind require optics in satisfactory condition. There is a microscope made of sturdy cardboard that I briefly looked into called the Foldscope. It's not digital, although you can put a phone up to the lens. Because it is small, it is portable. I don't have too much knowledge on the digital ones because I don't have one. the most popular one on Amazon looks to be this one. It is important to note that digitals will only look at the surface of the specimen, so if you're looking at, say, the cells of red onion membrane, you'll need a bottom light like that on a compound microscope. They are also constrained by USB cables. Choosing the right one for me was time-consuming since I wanted a cheaper one but also a high-quality one. It took maybe a full day of research to decide. I think children (me included) want the highest magnification possible. Some companies will say they have 2000x magnification, but in reality, the image is enlarged without increasing the resolution of the image. If you zoom in on a picture, it does not become more detailed. Be wary of this when looking at the specs. I realize most of this information is not about digital microscopes but I thought I could contribute.


u/revjeremyduncan · 11 pointsr/photography

I'm far from an expert, but I have a 7D, and I can tell you a few things to consider.

  • A 7D has a crop (APS-C) sensor, whereas the 5D has a Full Frame Sensor. The difference being that any lens you put on a 7D is going to be zoomed in by 1.6x compared to the 5D. See here. In other words, a 50mm lens on a 7D is going to act like an 80mm lens would on the 5D. Full frame sensors have a more shallow depth of field, too, which may or may no be desirable with video. Shallow DoF looks nice, but you really have to be precise when focusing.

  • Both the 7D and 5D have fixed LCD view screens. The 60D, which is like a cheaper version of the 7D, has a flip out screen, so you can see what you are filming when you are in front of the camera. An alternative would be using a laptop or tablet to as an eternal monitor. Honestly, if video was my focus, I would go with the 60D. 7D is better for still photography, though. Just my opinion.

  • The 7D, 5D and 60D do not have continuous focus for video, like what you are probably used to on a regular video camera. That means you have to manual focus with the focus rings on the lens, as you are filming. It gets easier with a lot of practice. The only Canon dSLR that I know of that has continuous focus on video is the Rebel T4i, which is quite a down grade from either of the previous. Also, the only lens that I know of that is compatible with continuous focus (so far) is the 40mm Pancake lens. That's a good, cheap lens to have in your arsenal, though.

  • The 5D does not have a built in flash, but that probably doesn't matter to you, if you are only doing video. Either way, I would get a speedlight if you need a flash. I have used my pop up in a pinch, though. All the other models I mentioned do have a flash.

  • Other people are likely to have different opinions, but some cheap starter lenses I would consider are; Canon 50mm ƒ/1.8 (Nifty Fifty), Canon 40mm ƒ/2.8 (Pancake Lens), and Tamron 17-50mm ƒ/2.8 (great, fast lens for video for the price IMO).

    Again, I cannot stress enough, that I am not as experienced as many of the photographers in this subReddit, so if they have differing opinions, you may want to consider theirs over mine. I hope I could help a little, at least.

    EDIT: Changed the order of my comments.
u/Palidore · 11 pointsr/oculus

Eneloops are where its at. Definitely recommend the ones I linked instead of the higher-capacity ones which squeeze out a little more juice per charge, but has far less charge cycles (500 vs 2100). This version includes a charger, if you're in need of one.

Also note that each Touch controller only uses a single AA battery.

u/cubiccle · 11 pointsr/photography

That's a no-brainer. Nikon 50 mm f/1.8G. Boom.

u/astuteglute · 11 pointsr/MGTOW

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant

$20 something off Amazon for a basic looking thing idk if it has audio too though, definitely going to need audio.

u/dxiao · 11 pointsr/toronto

This Wyze camera cost $40 on amazon.

You can view live or have 14 days of free cloud storage. Some folks have concerns about where the server sends the data but I use it to view my plants, so not that concerned.

It also has motion activated recording and/or alerts.

For 40 bucks, it’s pretty good value. Set up is super easy too.

u/TechWhisperer83 · 10 pointsr/childfree

If you want cheap and simple, I've heard pretty good things about Wyze (Wyze Cam v2 on amazon). A lot of parents use them as baby monitors, so I imagine it'll work well as a dog monitor. I just received one yesterday and it's been working well so far.

u/bassdude7 · 10 pointsr/Android

It might just reuse the design. It's not like China doesn't reuse hardware designs. Or maybe it's just a placeholder image and they're working on a gaming phone anyway that doesn't look like this.

u/sseeeds · 10 pointsr/Edmonton

Sucks that you've had to deal with all this.

I definitely second the recommendation in the other thread that you should get a camera on that tree. They clearly want the tree gone, and once you say that you won't be removing it, they might try something else.

With all the money you've already spent, you could invest $60 to get a Wyze cam and an SD card, and just record continuous video from a window inside your house.

u/papercraft_dildo · 10 pointsr/photography

I've taken perfectly capable shots with the Kit 18-55 lens that came with my old T3i. If you can swing it, you might want to spring for a 50mm 1.8 STM lens. They're dirt cheap, and take gorgeous pictures.

The zoom lens is made for versatility, not necessarily tack sharp pictures. That's why I like primes for portraits and things like that.

u/StinkinFinger · 10 pointsr/askscience

To be clear, everything you see with the naked eye is not a star. You can see galaxies too, and if you know what you're looking at, nebulae. Take a pair of high powered binoculars out some night and it's like you've never seen the sky. Better yet, get a pair of these. You won't be disappointed.

u/phloating_man · 10 pointsr/videography

Budget Rig

I mainly shoot internet video for my daughter and events.

  • Canon EOS M (~$330 USD)
  • Fotodiox EOS M Lens Adapter (~$60 USD)
  • Sigma 30mm f1.4 (~$500 USD)
  • Tascam DR-60D Audio Recorder (~$215 USD)
  • Azden SGM-1X Shotgun Mic (~$170 USD)
  • Neewer CN-160 LED Light (~$30 USD)
  • Nady 351VR Wireless Handheld Mic Kit (~$120 USD)
  • Vello Triple Shoe Mount (~$25 USD)
u/HybridCamRev · 9 pointsr/videography

Yes, that's an expensive camera. You can put an entire 4K studio together for less. Here's how:

Camera and Sound

u/BrandanG · 9 pointsr/cars

I use Canon because I had access to Canon lenses when I first started shooting cars, but Nikon also makes great cameras.

Right now a Canon T6 with an 18-55mm lens is $450. Add a 50mm f/1.8 and you can have a lot of fun shooting cars.

u/elkemist · 9 pointsr/xboxone

I used the energizer one for a while and it was ok, then I bought some Panasonic Eneloops and I'm never going back. They can be used for other devices as well and they last forever.

edit: Panasonic Eneloops These are the ones I have.

u/Fadic4 · 9 pointsr/cars

$25 wyze cam. Free cloud storage for events, you can install an sd card for continues recording, night vision as well.

Image is a bit bad quality because I cropped the image to zoom in on the car.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Works with Alexa

u/densetsu23 · 9 pointsr/Edmonton

Wyze cam and a USB battery pack would be my suggestion. Throw in a microSD card (which you may already have), enable motion detection, and you're set.

It's cheaper than a trail cam and for most people you can probably find other uses afterwards for the Wyze cam and the battery pack. Trail cams have a pretty narrow use case.

u/Hundekuchen_ · 9 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Thanks :3

Camera: Canon EOS Rebel T1i, aka 500d

Lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8

The lens is mostly what gives this "depth of field" effect

u/vwllss · 9 pointsr/photography

Figure what lenses she has and probably get her a 50mm 1.8

Costs a mere $100 and gives gorgeous photos that are sharper than anything her kit lens will give with a shallower depth of field that looks gorgeous.

It remains my favorite lens to this day because of its awesome low light ability. The only awkward part is it's slightly long on a crop sensor, so it's suggested more for portraiture and still life than walking around at events and such.

u/taintertots · 9 pointsr/Cosmos

I started looking to get a telescope a while back and a lot of what i read is for beginners to start with some high powered binoculars rather than a telescope.

They are normally quite a bit cheaper, easier to use, and do a great job for a beginner to get the hang and feel for things. Then if you really like star gazing and want to get a bit more serious about it, start looking into a more expensive option.

What I ended up getting was the following:

Might not be the same model, but they were this brand and looked almost identical to those (I am at work and can not check to be sure).

u/Gilzabizlo · 9 pointsr/xboxone

Buy this.
Eneloops - Amazon

Thank me later.

u/vgf89 · 9 pointsr/oculus

You can get the exact same charger with a 4 included eneloops for cheaper than the charger alone:

u/Virisenox_ · 8 pointsr/flashlight

Budget option: ThruNite T10: $20, 210 lumens (neutral white)

High durability options: Any of these (Not to say the other ones can't take a beating)

High end option: ZebraLight SC5c: $70, 4000K, 475 lumens, >90 CRI

Buy some Eneloops. They perform better, they won't leak and corrode your lights, and they'll save you money in the long run.

u/Corm · 8 pointsr/WindowsMR

I recommend this one at $18 because the it's an individual charger, and in my experience the batteries last for years.

This one is more popular and good too, but I replaced it with the other one because my batteries weren't lasting as long as they should (1 year instead of several), and I suspected it was overcharging them a bit. But it's $20 so who cares.

u/strawcat · 8 pointsr/photography

Get yourself the nifty 50 so you can shoot in low light and the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson (in fact, I LOVE all of his books). Photoshop is pretty important to me as well, but I'd start there.

u/New_d_pics · 8 pointsr/microgrowery

+1 for the shot!

Something like this im guessing?

Plugable USB 2.0 Digital Microscope with Flexible Arm Observation Stand for Windows, Mac, Linux (2MP, 250x Magnification)

Fun-Home Left Angle USB 2.0 Micro Male to USB Female Host OTG Adapter for SamSung i9100 i9300 With Power Features

u/burning1rr · 8 pointsr/Nikon

The D3300 can absolutely take great depth of field (DOF) photographs, but it does help to have the right lens.

Here's something I happened to shoot on a hike. This was shot with a d5300, which has the same sensor and crop factor as your D3300. I used the Nikkor 35mm F1.8 prime lens, which is excellent for DOF work.

Here are some hints:

  • Use Aperture Priority mode (A). The wider your aperture, the shorter your depth of field.
  • Use the widest aperture possible^1. With the kit lenses this usually means f3.5-f5.5, depending on focal length.
  • Move closer to your subject (closer subject means shorter DOF)
  • Put more distance between your subject and the background (background will be more out of focus.)
  • If you want to shoot portraits at 55mm, use the 55-200 lens not the 18-55. The 55-200 is faster than the 18-55 at 55mm^2.

    A longer focal length will tend to reduce DOF, but with the kit lens zoom will reduce aperture. Longer focal length also means that you'll need to stand further away from the subject to get the framing correct. Distance increases DOF.

    Try using the kit 18-55mm lens at about 35mm and open the aperture wide. Move the subject away from the background. Chose a background with some texture that contrasts against your subject. Make sure the background is far behind the subject.

    If you want to take DOF shots, a faster lens helps immensely. For landscape and group photography, the Nikkor DX 35mm f1.8 lens is a great bet. For shooting portraits, consider the Nikkor FX 50mm f1.8 prime. Both cost $200, and are absolutely worth the price.

    I recommend the 50mm for portrait photos because the zoom helps move you away from your subject. A face/shoulder shot with the 35mm will tend to distort the subjects features. 80-100mm is generally considered a good distance for portrait photography, but the fast 100mm lenses are much more expensive than the 50mm prime.

    One other hint... Consider enabling Auto-ISO on your camera. Getting Auto-ISO right takes patience, but it makes shooting much easier once it's set correctly. Mine is tuned so that ISO stays at 100 normally, but increases to keep the shutter speed at a minimum of 1/50.

    ^1 This doesn't always apply to extremely fast lenses. The 35mm f1.8 has a razor thin depth of field wide open. I have taken many shots where there isn't enough DOF to capture the entire subject at that aperture.

    ^2 This advise has a major caveat: While the 55-200 is wider at 55, the minimum focus distance is much longer. You'll get a shorter depth of field and better bokah using the 18-55 at 1' and f5.6 than you will using the 55-200 at 3' and f4.
u/Vandar · 8 pointsr/magicTCG

Amazon Basics Camera bag is excellent 30$ for something that should cost 70.

u/Eldrake · 8 pointsr/Vive
u/wmtrader · 8 pointsr/space


Chart of Cosmic Exploration

History of Space Travel

Cutaway View of a Space Shuttle peel and stick wall decals

NASA Saturn V Cutaway

Skylab Cutaway illustration

International Space Rockets

X-15 Cutaway

Smithsonian Milestones of Flight

Space Stations Poster

International Space Station Planet Earth

SpaceX Falon 9

Shuttle Atlantis & Mir Space Station


Spacex Falcon 9 T-shirts

SpaceX Kids T-Shirts

NASA Logo T-shirt

NASA KIds T-Shirt


Students for the Exploration and Development of Space (SEDS)

Planetary Society


Get email or text alerts when the space station is flying over


Star Walk App

Celestron SkyMaster

Celestron 71020 SkyMaster


3D Laser Cut Models

Model Rockets (starting with easiest to make and launch) First Rocket, Second Rocket, Third Rocket, Forth Rocket, and Fifth Rocket.

LEGO City Space Utility Vehicle

LEGO City Space Port

LEGO Ideas NASA Apollo Saturn V


Huble IMAX

NASA: A Journey Through Space

Moon Machines or watch at YT - this series rocks.

NASA Live - Earth From Space

HOW IT WORKS: The International Space Station


The Mir Chronicles

Hubble Space Telescope Servicing Mission

The Space Shuttle

North American X-15


Total Solar Eclipse 2017

Meteor Showers in 2017

Vandenberg AFB Launch Schedule

Launch Schedule

Dark Sky Map People who have never been to a dark sky area do not think that it is worth the effort to see. People who have gone to a dark sky site are blown away by the amount of stars they can see with their naked eyes. Go on a trip to a dark sky area (dark gray on the map) on a moonless (new moon) night, here is a moon phase calendar.

u/Isvara · 8 pointsr/photography

> Seriously. Just go shooting like hell, try all the modes to know what to use when that particular once-in-a-lifetime shot will come to your eyes.

Sounds like today will be an ideal day to take my kid to the park :-)

> If you have a few bucks left, get a nice prime. I think canon has a pretty fast normal lens that is very affordable.

By that, do you mean the $100 50mm one that people are saying is great value?

u/ezraekman · 8 pointsr/flashlight

> While I appreciate the concerns, I've already been taking photos of people at night/parties for a while with the led of my iphone and the results are rather good.

Fair enough. If you're happy with the results, that's what matters.

> Autofocus works great with the extra light, the white balance is correct and I shot in raw, so I fix it later if necessary. Also, hot glue is quite easy to take from the camera.

The reason you're able to autofocus better is that your iPhone is acting as a mock autofocus assist. However, you would be better served with a dedicated autofocus assist such as that found on an external flash. It is infrared and is both less distracting to guests and more effective for focusing due to the pattern it projects. If you continue to shoot at clubs, you are eventually going to make it into higher-profile venues and I promise you they are going to ask you to turn off any continuous lights you plan to use so as to avoid ruining the ambiance.

I've been professionally shooting live events (including clubs) for over 15 years. This post is an example of my experience/credentials (including samples of club photos). It's up to you if you want to follow my advice, but I can pretty much guarantee you that an external hotshoe light is going to yield better results and look more professional than gluing something to your DSLR unless you are very skilled in engineering and manufacturing.

> I bought some small extra bright leds and while the light is colder what really bothers me is the intensity, which is lower than the iphone's. I could make a led ring, but I tried to google the type of led apple use but they only talk vagely about how awesome apple is. I just need a very Bright LED i could power with a small battery I have.

Apple's LED isn't an LED. It's two LEDs: one with a blue cast that provides primary light output, and one with an orange cast for better color balance with skin tones. If you're dead-set on an external LeD, I would again point you to one such as that I linked before. It will be a night-and-day (no pun intended) difference in output when compared against your iPhone. Some of them even come with filters for balancing against incandescent and fluorescent light. I own two of those and they work.

These tools exist for a reason. There are certainly more powerful lights than those I've linked. But you don't have to spend an arm and a leg, nor assemble one that you have to glue to your camera. They will be more effective, easier to control, won't make your rig look unprofessional, and will probably offer more light output (900 lumens at 1 meter, adjustable) for less money (due to mass production) than you can assemble yourself. $25-$30 isn't much for 160 LEDs, but that's your call.

u/Dollywinks · 8 pointsr/Dollywinks

Aww thank you! I've seen your posts around, I love your pics!

I bought some umbrella lights awhile back, and I usually have them out while I'm taking a photo-set. It makes a big difference, especially since the natural lighting in my apartment isn't the best. These are the ones I have :)

u/chillin-and-grillin · 8 pointsr/homedefense

Wyze camera. $25.99 on Amazon.

u/RVA_AJ · 8 pointsr/BabyBumps

Hi! So I found a great affordable option that I love to share with moms.

It’s called Wyze. It’s from ex-Amazon folks. $25 and you can access the camera from anywhere with the app. Multiple people can access as long as they have the password and username. You can also talk through the camera using your phone. We love it.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant

u/NekoIan · 8 pointsr/ottawa

For anyone looking for a cheap (indoor) porch camera. I have this one pointing on my porch. It's pretty great for the price.

u/throwawaylatefiler · 8 pointsr/ottawa
u/devildocjames · 7 pointsr/dogs

I have a mix of different Foscam models. The image is good. Setup is fairly easy and I can access the Pan/Tilt controls via the app also.

u/ifandbut · 7 pointsr/Games

>The sensor boxes had to be plugged into outlets and you needed to mount them high-up in the corners of your room. The criticisms were valid, when setting up hardware requires power tools something is probably amiss.

No power tools required. Just some shower curtain rods and some quick release pipe clamps for cameras. Yes, more money, but provides a mobile setup (or just an adjustable setup) and you dont have to put holes in your walls (something apartments frown on).

u/DragonTamerMCT · 7 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Did a bit of googling

It's about ~$700 for this mirrorless with an OLED viewfinder. I think the res is similar (1.4mil pixels?)

Qedit: And had I spend 30 seconds longer I would've found that cameras big brother Which has an OLED viewfinder with 2.4mil pixels. It goes for about 1 grand, body only. Also this oled is about half the size of OPs iirc.

So TL;DR; You can get an OLED half the size of OP's with twice the resolution, for about ~$1000 if you don't mind buying the rest of the camera with it.

u/microglial-cytokines · 7 pointsr/microscopy

At 100x you'll see individual cells, but erythrocytes are really small, and 400x is ideal. For pond life, larger microorganisms like paramecium might be viewable, but euglena for example will be small with minimal detail.

You could try the Carson microbrite, I have one, but I know it's quite limited as a student microscope: (

The OMAX M82ES has great features and produces great images, costs considerably more though and realistically is only good to 400x (

Hope this helps get you on the right track!

u/fatherjokes · 7 pointsr/photomarket

It's $110 on Amazon. Can't beat that with a stick.

If that's too much, check out the Yongnuo f1.8. I picked one up on eBay for $40. Amazing value. It takes great photos.

u/LiarInGlass · 7 pointsr/trees

I bought that one. Nothing special and I don’t know shit about microscope but after getting it really close and playing with the settings this was about the best I could do. I have no idea what I’m doing though. Lol

u/sleepyminion · 7 pointsr/coins

I have a digital microscope I got for Christmas last year that's awesome. This one.

Here are some pictures.

u/mkopec · 7 pointsr/photography

Around $400 brand new you can probably get like a T5 with a kit lens, 18-55mm. Pretty good camera, not the best, but for a starter camera its good, way better than any point and shoot.

I know its a gift so keeping it new is probably best, but you could get like a refurbished one from cannon site.

Those all would be pretty sweet for a beginner. She can buy some better lenses later on.

Or you could go the Sony mirror less route with a a6000. I know she wanted a cannon, but the sony a6000 is a way better camera from the get go for the money. Better processor better sensor, the ability to use tons of cheap legacy lenses of all types, wi-fi capability to sync with her phone and download pictures, even control her camera with her phone.

You could probably snag a used one of these or refurbished for about $450-$500.

u/parametrek · 7 pointsr/flashlight

The Thrunite Archer 1A is $30 and pretty compact. These batteries should last you a lifetime.

u/CODMuffinMan · 7 pointsr/consoledeals

I'd recommend these instead, I've had them for around 8 months now and they're really good. A lot better than going through a 48 pack of duracells every month or two

u/Moonlord_ · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Any charger intended for NiMh batteries will work but it's worth the investment to get a decent smart charger. You'll get longer life and fuller charges out of your batteries. They can also give you info for matching battery pairs effectively, bringing weak batteries back to life, and determine when a battery is getting weaker.
Also stay away from "rapid chargers" that charge in an hour or less...they are horrible for your batteries and will kill them off quickly.

I recommend something like the Maha Powerex Wizard One charger which you can find on Amazon, etc. At the minimum the new Panasonic chargers that come with the newest Eneloop models are pretty decent for a pack-in smart charger. They have 4 individual charging circuits, peak detection when the battery is full, and charge at a gentle rate.

u/shmmrname · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Here's my little bits of advice:

Games with Gold: If you have an XBL gold membership, please 'buy' ( the free games on both systems, even if you don't currently have one of them. If you don't have an XB1 yet, you're essentially just building a bigger potential library if you get the console in the future. If you're on XB1, you're creating a larger backwards compatible library.

Accessories: Add storage via nearly any USB 3.0 external hd (there's millions of suggestions for specific models via a search of this subreddit). I suggest Eneloops over the play-n-charge kit. XBL gold membership is roughly $35/year frequently, never pay full price and keep in mind it's "stack-able". Install SmartGlass on your mobile devices. Install the Xbox app on your Windows 10 devices.

Games/Values: If you're interested in any EA game, give EA Access a look ($30/year). Bing Rewards is a nice way to pad your digital wallet. Value-based subreddits I'd suggest: /r/GameDeals, /r/GreatXboxDeals and /r/ConsoleDeals. Weekly sales threads tend to pop up on /r/XboxOne before they're published, and if you want to see all current discounts check out storeparser.

Game Recommendations:
SMITE is a free-to-play moba that's become a go-to game for me a few times each week. It's easy to learn, but there's depth to keep you learning new strategies/skills even months after you've started. I really can't believe how much I like this game. I think everyone should at least try it.
Rise of the Tomb Raider is gorgeous, and it improves upon nearly everything the original reboot (already a good game) attempted. I love the game.
Sunset Overdrive is fun from start-to-finish, and it's one of the most unique games I've played. The art style is infectious, and I loved the game more each time I played it. However, I didn't particularly appreciate much of the multiplayer.
LEGO Marvel Super Heroes is a step above the other LEGO games, and it's an absolute hit for co-op sessions. Similarly, Diablo 3 excels at co-op, even if it's something that doesn't seem like a typical title for your group.
There's many others I'd recommend, but I'm sticking to the top-most I'd recommend to any new Xbox One owners. There's a ton of opinions you can find on this subreddit if you're interested in any game. Also, if you're not sure about something: look for Twitch streams or YouTube videos before you take the plunge.

Always check out Friend Request Friday to find people you can play with. I love podcasts, here are my recommended podcasts. I use Feedrabbit to get e-mailed updates from Major Nelson.

Finally, I recommend helping out when you can by visiting the Mentor Monday threads. It's a very easy way to help, and (in my opinion) it's one of the best threads each week in this subreddit.

u/smelltheglove-11 · 7 pointsr/xboxone

Got mine a few weeks ago and I love them. Only 16.99 on Amazon, comes with 4 batteries and the charger.

u/Chempy · 7 pointsr/Vive

Here is what I have:



u/Jackalopalen · 7 pointsr/Vive
u/netzeet · 7 pointsr/1P_LSD

Here are some of my favorite things to do:

  1. Listen to Music (especially psychedelic/trippy music)

  2. Watch Nature Videos (Heres a great one following a closed ecosystem of some micro life paired with some tasty classical music

  3. Play an instrument

  4. Lay on the floor and stare at the ceilings/walls with the lights off

  5. Take showers (Feels absolutely orgasmic)

  6. Look at things with this surprisingly amazing cheap microscope

    And a lot of other things, but those usually come from just me going with the flow of whatever is happening!
u/frostickle · 7 pointsr/photography

And you have no other lenses besides your kit lens?

I recommend the 35mm f1.8 :)

Or the 50mm f1.8 if you want something longer (Personally, I prefer shorter lenses, because they have a wider angle. To tell what the angles are, use your kit lens, and turn it to 35 or 50)

P.s. That is a reddit amazon affiliate link, but please do not feel compelled to buy with it. Go shop around (ebay, keh, adorama, local shops, etc.) and get the cheapest deal you can find!

u/Vpr99 · 7 pointsr/buildapc

I've got a Nikon D3100. It's not crazy nice, but then again I don't make enough money off my photography (or use it enough) to merit a better one. I do have two other lenses, though. I've got a Nikon 18-200 f/3.5 - 5.6 which just sits in my camera bag about 90% of the time and a Nikon 35mm f/1.8 that I used to take these photos. I got it as a vacation and low-light lens and I've absolutely fallen in love with it. I chose it cause it's a bit wider than the 50mm f/1.8 which was my other choice. I've honestly been considering selling the 18-200 since it was expensive and barely gets used. The 35 is the deal of the century as far as I'm concerned with lenses.

u/dutchbag · 7 pointsr/photography

I cannot recommend the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 enough. It's pretty much permanently mated to my most used body (the older bro of the D3k, the D40x).

u/bondjaybond · 7 pointsr/Filmmakers

I recently picked up almost everything on this list so I can give you an honest opinion and I'm a vfx artist trying to get out there and shoot my own content.

The fisheye....we never use it. We shot a prom and that was the only time we used it, and that was for b-roll because the kids loved it.

Definitely pick up the Sigma 30mm f/1.4. It's such a great lens! I almost use if for everything I do, but it's also good to have a wide angle lens. I currently use one of my buddy's which is a Canon 17mm-85mm.

Nodal Ninja I haven't seen before, but looks great.

Video tripod is good, I use a Manfrotto 502 but it's way more expensive, so this looks like a decent alternative. Also, the quick release plates are awesome. You'll eventually want to pick up tonnes of these. I used 2 yesterday to put on both the bottom of my new slider, as well as the top. I have one on my cage as well.

You can probably do without the Shoulder Rig for now. You may consider using the Kamerar Tank 2 cage with rail system to hook up the Kamerar Follow Focus. I found that once I got my Tank, I just disassembled the shoulder rig and never used it since. The Glidecam is something that I've been considering as my next purchase. Check out my thread asking about the glidecam.

Definitely grab the NTG-2 and possibly a Zoom H4N. The sound quality is fantastic. You need an XLR cable, windshield, boompole, and a shock mount.

Kamerar's Follow Focus is solid. It gets a little cramped using a smaller lens, the follow focus, and a matte box though. You have to tinker with teeth to learn how you need to set it up properly so that the teeth don't slip.

The Matte Box, while nice to look at, hasn't proven it's worth to me. I shoot with the Sigma 30mm f/1.4 and because the lens is so short, the matte box does very little to block out light. I just got the new "donut" in the mail yesterday so maybe that will help, but I wouldn't advise getting it when you can spend that money on something else.

And the backpack is pretty awesome, definitely worth picking up. If you travel to shoots I would recommend the Pelican 1510 to store all your stuff in.

I would also recommend grabbing a couple LED lights and the batteries and charger. These things are a life saver. I'll be picking up a third this week.

I hope this helped you out a bit. Like I said I was in a similar situation to you a couple months ago, but everything's coming together now. If you have any more specific questions about any of this, let me know. Take care.

u/molaniek · 7 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

Hello! Here's a look out of my comfort zone, I usually stick to neutral warm shades like oranges and browns but I decided to try something new.

Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Pomade in Chocolate
Nyx Brow Mascara in Chocolate
Colourpop Shadow in I Owe You (transition shade)
Colourpop Shadow in Paradox (maroon)
Colourpop Shadow in Central Perk (brown)
Citycolor Shimmer Shadow in Beach Cottage (green)
Nyx Crystal Liner in Crystal Silk
Nyx Face & Body Loose Pigment in Gold (inner corner)
Too Faced Perfect Eyes Waterproof Liner in Perfect Black
Too Faced Better Than Sex Mascara
Ardell Lashes in 207
Too Faced Born This away Foundation in Warm Beige
Nyx HD Concealer in Beige
LA Girl Loose Powder in Banana
Tarte Bronzer in Park Ave. Princess
Anastasia Beverly Hills Glow Kit in Snow & White Sand

Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio, LMS103

u/gabezermeno · 7 pointsr/photography

For under 35$ you will be getting nothing more than the same quality or worse than the amazon basics tripod. But if you must then get whatever you can find that's cheapest. I used to have this tripod which is 50$ and it was amazing for the price and way better build quality than anything else for the price or sometimes even double the price.

u/_TheDrizzle · 7 pointsr/photography
u/CalmInTheSea · 7 pointsr/photography

Have you looked at this one from amazon?

Here are some reviews for it.

Seems like a good tripod for 40 dollars, im contemplating buying it later this week. Just to let you know of this option if you didn't already!

u/TheSummerTriangle · 7 pointsr/Nikon

You definitely want this 35mm 1.8 DX. It's a steal of a lens, and often the only lens I bring with me on my DX bodies.

Sports is the hardest thing to shoot cheaply, especially if it's indoors/at night. VR won't help you there -- it doesn't un-blur moving objects, it only prevents blurring from the camera shaking in your hands. Your best bet is most likely the 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6.

As for bags, I generally shoot out of a random backpack or shoulder bag. You can get a specialized camera bag if you want to, but I've found them to be overkill for me.

u/jonjiv · 7 pointsr/personalfinance

This is highly dependent on your price range, but if you're going to be in it for $500 prizes, I'm going to assume you'd like to spend less than $1000.

In that case, you can't really go wrong with a Canon dSLR, especially the t series, their entry level camera. I think the newest version is the Canon t5i, but the t4i and t3i also shoot high quality 1080p video and you'll be able to find them for cheaper.

The Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera is increasingly popular in that price range, but I wouldn't recommend it to an amateur. It has a fantastic image but a high learning curve.

Nikon dSLR's are great too, but if you invest in Nikon lenses as a videographer, you're going to have a bad time. The majority of video camera bodies are manufactured for Canon mount lenses, so if you ever want to leave Nikon, you're kind of stuck or forced to use lens mount convertors.

With all of these cameras, lenses are arguably more important than the camera itself. With the Canon, the best bang for your buck is going to be a Canon 50mm 1.8. It's a cheap lens, but it has a great image for the price and is great in low light. If you can afford a good 2.8 zoom lens like the 17-55 2.8, go for it, but it's often near $1000.

u/johnny5ive · 6 pointsr/photography

Yes!!! I'm in this thread early so i'm just gonna dump my questions. For reference I'm shooting with a D7100 (I blame DatAperture for owning that instead of a D7000)

  1. Do you all know exactly what combo of shutter speed / aperture / ISO you need to get a picture exposed correctly or are you just doing guess-and-check? I know the general relation between all 3 and how it determines exposure but I rarely get it right on the first or second try. Do you all have warm up shots or do you just nail exposure the first time?

  2. Debating a yongnuo flash for my indoor events. How important is TTL?

  3. Shooting a friends rehearsal dinner (she doesn't want anything crazy she just wants pictures to remember the night by). I'm not too nervous because I've had tons of practice and can turn out pretty good photos (thank you lightroom!) but i'm wondergin if a Sigma 18-35/1.8 will be all I need for the night. Should i get a nifty fifty to go with? Should I look into renting a 24-70 for the night or will I be ok just having the other two?

  4. I have a D7100, Can I save $100 and get the 50mm 1.8D or is the 50mm 1.8G that much better? Would I be missing out on that much?

  5. As a hobbyist would I be missing out if i bought a zoom a f2.8 or is f/4 enough? Is that extra stop really worth it if i'm mostly using it for friends/family/vacation? I know it really depends on the lighting and how many shots i'm ok with missing but i'd like to hear if there's anyone that regrets getting a lens at f/4 instead of f/2.8

    Thank you for your help. Here's a picture I took of my dog as thanks for your comments. Taken at 1/25, f/2.5, ISO 3200.
u/yuckytown · 6 pointsr/photography

serious bang for the buck - currently $105 (USD) at Amazon.

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens

u/ubiquitousness · 6 pointsr/AskReddit
u/McArthurWheeler · 6 pointsr/mtgfinance

I used a pocket microscope to take this image of a counterfeit wurmcoil engine if it is of any help. This card failed the light test as it was black core paper though. Also if you look at the holostamp with something that powerful you can see letters in the logo spelling wizards.

Your cards sound like variance in printings though

u/idkhow2username · 6 pointsr/microgrowery

If you're looking for one: Plugable USB 2.0 Digital Microscope with Flexible Arm Observation Stand:

u/Cyt6000 · 6 pointsr/puppy101

We had a neighbor who insisted that their dog jumped on the fence and barked because he was so friendly and just wanted to play. That dog bit both of my dogs and broke the fence of their other neighbor. (Going to small claims since she still insists her dog did nothing wrong and refuses to help pay vet bills).

Would highly recommend recording your backyard (maybe front too) with a cheap webcam in case something does happen. The [wyze cam] ( is only $25. Also invest in pet corrector to deter the lab when he jumps up.

u/Ilubalu · 6 pointsr/RBI

Those links didn't work for me, but they did after I chopped of the stuff after the Amazon product number (aka the ASIN). Thus, they became:

u/IEatWholePizzas · 6 pointsr/milwaukee

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Person Detection, Works with Alexa & the Google Assistant

Can’t recommend this thing enough. I was skeptical about a <30$ camera but this thing is great. HD. Push notifications to my phone when motion is detected. Facial recognition so you only get alerted when it’s a person and not the wind blowing something around. Custom time settings for when you want the alerts. Free cloud storage for the 15 seconds after a face is recognized. I saved a lot of money going with these instead of ring.

u/vexstream · 6 pointsr/Vive

Another thing that works extremely well are contractor poles/floor to ceiling poles. Harbor freight has these for 15$, you add in these and you have a very good semiperminant mounting solution.

u/scottbrio · 6 pointsr/videography

I setup and produced a setup similar to this. Here's what I used on a budget to get pretty fantastic quality IMO.

Two Sony A6000 ~$600 each

Roland V-1HD video swithcher ~$974

Elgato HD60s capture card ~$160

That's ~$2,600 but you'll still need a decently spec'd laptop, camera mounts, cables, etc.

Here's a link to the podcast so you can see the quality.

I also used a Atomos Ninja Flame and a Teradek Vidiu Pro, but those are unnecesasry for the end goal. The Ninja Flame is great for back up recording and real time color-correction, but also is an extra $700 or so...

Good luck!

u/flindaman · 6 pointsr/photography

I would highly recommend looking into mirrorless cameras. They use digital viewfinders and ditch the mirror, showing you to see exactly what the camera sees. They usually have far more features than an equally priced dslr, and are much lighter.

I love my a6000, it's in your price range and you won't regret it. I had a d3200 and honestly the d3200, I outgrew quickly from learning/practise and wanted more. The increased fps, noise quality, focus points, focus speed, and extra features like focus peaking were seriously worth returning the d3200 and buying the a6000.

u/TranceDoctor · 6 pointsr/xboxone

You're honestly better off buying the new one because then you know you'll always own the games and you get a brand new warranty. You also get 500gb more space.

I bought this to use as my batteries and it's great.

u/tuber · 6 pointsr/space

Do you already own astronomical binoculars? If not, I recommend you start there.

tl;dr - two eyes is greater than one

u/vaheg · 6 pointsr/LosAngeles I had those long time ago, and sometimes on those moon days I would go out and let others view through them too, everybody was impressed.. how much better is the view through those?

u/Juno_Malone · 6 pointsr/pics
u/Fracturedlens · 6 pointsr/photography

I have been shooting on Nikon for a while now. The D7000 is a solid camera. Going from my old D80 to the D7000 it was like stepping into the future. The full RGB meter and the 6400 ISO range make for some amazing shots.

Now as for lens that largely depends on your budget.

  • The standard starter 50mm f/1.8 $219.00

    The 50mm will give you razor sharp images work in low light and is a great lens to learn on. If you ever move to a FX (full frame) camera is will work on there as well. On your crop camera it will be 50mm x 1.5 (crop factor) = 75mm lens. This is a little long for some folks which leads to our next lens.

  • Great starter just for DX Cameras 35mm f/1.8 $196.95

    The 35 is a DX lens (build just for your crop camera so it won't work well on a FX camera) but its a great place to start. This lens is a "normal" lens. Meaning it is close to what your eye sees. Its cheap and has many of the qualities of the 50mm.

  • If you have some money to burn the Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 $594.00

    I just picked up this Sigma a few days ago from Amazon and I can confirm its sharp as a tack. I honestly like this lens better than the 17-55 Nikon which is 1500 ish dollars. It has optical stabilization and is lighter than the hulking Nikon lens.

    I have stayed away from lenses with, in my opinion, crappy f-stops. You can find cheaper lens out there but you will suffer from high f stops like 5.6 which will kill your ability to shoot in low light, and to isolate your subject and have real control over your depth of field. These lenses are great place to start and they will stay in your camera bag for years to come. There are more lenses out there from zooms to telephoto to macro if you give us some idea of what you want to shoot then we can help recommend a more specialized lens. Happy shooting.
u/geekandwife · 6 pointsr/photography

For a D3300, I would not want a 85mm at my "do everything" lens. I would have gone with a 35mm. If you are reading guides that talk about portrait shooting with and 85mm prime, they are talking about on a full frame camera. A 50mm will be the equivalent of a 85mm on your D3300. If that is what you are really looking for I would get the , And I would keep the 35mm as your equivalent to a "nifty" fifty. It will be your general walk around lens. However, you could always return what you got wrong, and get the cheaper 35mm 1.8 - . I would much rather have a 50mm and a 35mm prime than one 85mm prime, especially since I could get both cheaper than the one lens.

u/UndeadCaesar · 6 pointsr/photography

I've kept mine in this bag, which is perfect. Build quality has been really good so far, and it's big enough to hold my DSLR + kit lens, a 50mm prime, as well as two GoPros, their respective cases, multiple mounting solutions, a small GorillaPod tripod, and pockets for SD cards/readers, manuals, spare batteries, and chargers as well.

u/Mikeh12 · 6 pointsr/photography

Not sure where you're located, so here's the UK link, and here's the US link

u/astropancakes · 6 pointsr/videography

Pretty cheap light that companies put their own branding on. Here it is from Neewer

u/beancrosby · 6 pointsr/cinematography

Simple on camera lighting, most likely a small LED bank attached to the cameras hotshoe. Something like this

Edited to add: The softness can come from a piece of diffusion taped over the light, or they make softboxes for the light I linked.

u/Spearhead90 · 6 pointsr/ar15

It's a mix of f/4 and f/1.8. Mostly f/1.8. I made a little white box out of some large card stock, and one of these. I used a 160 LED Video/Studio light for the lighting.

The camera/lens setup is a Nikon D3100 with the Nikkor 35mm 1.8G.

u/ericplaysbass · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

I've been using this one for months now for my Twitch streams and really enjoy it. Inexpensive and does just what I need it to do.

Here's before the kit, and here's after.

u/Teeny_Ginger_18 · 6 pointsr/adorableporn

Maybe you should buy her a lighting kit!

u/Hrozno · 6 pointsr/letsplay

Consider lighting instead. All cameras have noise problems. The expensive ones just have better low light conditions. If I were you I'd rather get a light kit (you can Amazon a 3 light kit and get one for under $150). Look up three point lighting and go from there. Cameras are expensive but they also might not solve your problem. Lights always will given that they gave enough watts.

Here's a good starter kit:

If you're keen on getting a camera look into repurposing a DSLR as a webcam. However for streaming purposes I really don't think you need much more than a $100 webcam.

Hope this helps,

u/kevinkace · 5 pointsr/skateboarding

I picked up everything off Amazon (other than the camera which I bought 2nd hand off Craigslist):

u/Streetiebird · 5 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

I am a Nikon shooter, so I will give my opinion from that point of view.

If you're serious about getting back into photography, I would skip the entry-level bodies like the D3400, and D5500 and go up to the D7200 (~$1300 with 18-150mm lens). It's not full-frame, and has a crop-sensor so focal lengths are different from film cameras (1.5x crop factor so 35mm lenses look like they're 50mm), and the pixels on the sensor are less big physically, but unless you're trying to go pro the difference does not matter much. Also you won't break the bank, and it has amazing capabilities like auto-bracketing and very high ISO which you can use for landscapes/sunsets/night sky photography and also has a built-in flash (unlike the pro bodies) which can control the Nikon creative lighting system if you get more into portraits and want to achieve some simple off-camera lighting.

As an additional lens you could consider the nikkor 50mm f1.8 ($217), since it would be much better for portraits than the 18-150.

That leaves quite a bit for a computer. If you're not hooked on Apple products, I would suggest a refurbished Dell through their factory outlet and look around at either the XPS desktops or XPS laptops. Get at least 16GB RAM and a 6th gen Core i7 processor. You're probably looking at around $1000 for a decent rig.

You MUST get Adobe Lightroom. This should be mandatory. You can get the bundle with Photoshop if you pay by the month, or you can buy a standalone copy of Lightroom on Amazon.

Good luck!!!

u/RegulusWolf · 5 pointsr/Nikon

For your budget if you wanted to stick with Nikon you could pick up a used Nikon D600/D610 and probably a used 20mm f/1.8G and 50 f/1.8G, which would cover you for a lot of uses, and still be a really light kit with awesome low-light performance and much better controls. 20mm is generally wide enough for most applications, and if you need anything wider you could always stitch images in post. I think that this setup would probably even be lighter than a D7200+17-50 setup, since those f/1.8G lenses are super light. Oh, and you would also get more than a stop of extra light before even considering the extra low-light bonus of full frame, which is fantastic for doing nighttime landscapes. And they are super sharp! Probably sharper than the f/1.4G primes that I have...

Used D600:

Used 20mm f/1.8:

Used 50mm f/1.8:

And I think that the prime lenses have some weather sealing in them too, and the battery life out of the EN-EL15 batteries is awesome (from my experience with them in my 2x D7000, D600, D800, and D810.)

However, if it were me I would pick up a used Fujifilm X-T1 and a 14mm f/2.8 and a 35mm f/2WR, which would be WAY lighter, but you would have to carry a few extra batteries.

u/smushkan · 5 pointsr/videography

If the interviews are under 20 minutes long, or can be recorded in multiple takes:

  • Canon EOS-M with kit lens - ~$320
  • Azden CAM3-3 - ~$60
  • 3 Audio Technica ATR3350 - ~$78
  • Cheap tripod - ~ $30
  • 32 GB SD card - ~$15
  • 3 10 foot 3.5mm jack extension leads (for the microphones) - ~$10

    It's a little over your budget, and I'd still recommend you spend another ~$60 for a set of lights but that might not be necessasary if what you're filming is already lit.

    The EOS-M is surprisingly capable at this sort of shooting, but as I mentioned it does have a 20 minute per take recording limit so it might require some thought on how to best use it. Using Magic Lantern allows the camera to automatically resume recording, but you will lose a fraction of a second when that happens.

    You also might want to consider a Rode Videomic (not the GO version!) for the run-and-gun driver interviews as using lapel mics on them might not always be a practical solution.

    I doubt you can get better quality for the price, though /u/HybridCamRev is bound to show up and proove me wrong :-)
u/The_Dead_See · 5 pointsr/Astronomy

Hi, I would avoid that scope if I were you, it's liable to turn you off astronomy more than pull you into it.

The most affordable worthwhile scope out there at the moment (imho) is the AWB Onesky.

If your budget doesn't amount to that much, I would recommend finding either a pair of decent 10x50 binoculars attached to a cheap tripod with a Barska Adapter

Alternatively you might be able to find a used 4 or 6" dobsonian for under $150.

The best beginners book on backyard astronomy is definitely Nightwatch, and it should be followed by the more in depth Turn Left at Orion

Hope that helps!

u/CoastSeaMountainLake · 5 pointsr/amateurradio

Not sure if you are wanting help with homebrew antennas, or help setting up commercial antennas...but if it's homebrew:

Start simple. You'll need a cordless drill and a hacksaw.

Look at your closest Home Depot or Lowes, and check it out for antenna building materials. Gauge 12 or 10 solid electrical wire? Perfect for temporary UHF dipoles or quarter wave groundplane antennas. Flat bar aluminum 1/4"x1/8"? Good for permanent VHF/UHF antennas.

Plastic HDPE cutting boards? It's not a cutting board, it's substrate for mounting antennas, just cut-to-size with a hacksaw.

You will need SMA-BNC adapters for your Baofeng, some ferrite cores (material 61 for VHF, 43 for HF) for chokes and current baluns.

Get an assortment of small machine screws at varying lengths for mounting the radiators and radials.

For 2m and UHF, get a cheap tripod from Amazon as a starting mount for experimenting.

Get small U-bolts for mounting the antenna to a pole or to the tripod. If you don't want to go too high, some PVC water pipe (sturdy 600PSI, not 200) will work as a semi-permanent pole.

You'll need an SWR meter:

And if you want to do HF, an antenna analyzer (shockingly, these cheap chinese MR100 copies usually work ok):

The most common cable is RG58. It's not ideal for UHF, but it'll do, it's flexible, and is easily crimped.

And here are some other links that should give you ideas:

u/catchatorie · 5 pointsr/BabyBumps

I want to just point out that you can save a lot of money by getting a general web cam that isn't branded as a "baby monitor". We have these for general home security and plan to get a couple more for use as baby monitors. They have an app for iOS and Android, so while it doesn't come with a "matching" display, it's way easier and more convenient for us to just have the app on our phones, iPad, and laptops anyway.

And then, when baby turns into a teenager, you can point it outside their bedroom window and set up a motion alert text message to your phone to wake you up and catch them sneaking out :p

u/tsatrom · 5 pointsr/xboxone
u/graffiksguru · 5 pointsr/gadgets

I second the Foscam wireless IP camera, $75 once is a lot better than paying a monthly fee from my security system, that's for sure.

u/Allistar · 5 pointsr/Austin

Make it up to the Domain. I believe the Microsoft Store has a demo, free of course.

p.s. I have a Vive and it's amazing!

...But keep in mind it's a first generation product with a technical support and customer service group that's new to VR tech and all the nuances that come about with supporting said equipment.

  1. You need a beefy computer (CPU/GPU) to maintain the recommended 90 frames per second, per eye. Get Steam if you don't have it already and download the free Steam VR Performance Test to get a basic idea of how well prepared your computer is for VR.

    The pixel density isn't there yet compared to your traditional iPhone Retina display or other high PPI phone displays (pixels per inch) - so you'll see individual pixels. FOV (Field of View) isn't wide enough to fill your entire peripheral view, think of it more like a pair of goggles (and the circular rectangle view you'd see as a result) into another world.

    A decent sized play area clear of obstacles for roomscale is definitely preferred to be able to support the majority of
    games out there. Minimum size for roomscale is 1.5m x 2m, maximum is 15' (5m) diagonal. You'll also want to securely mount your lighthouse beacons that enable the 2mm or less accuracy of your head mounted display (HMD) and controllers.

    Those that can wallmount, should, as it'll provide the most securely fashioned physical mounting (and thus non-wobbly) tracking. Otherwise tripods or some things like these with two of these will work!

    However, despite me listing all of these caveats (for your benefit, informed decisions are something I always promote and recommend) - it's still amazing technology that gets you absolutely immersed in the video game (and creative, and 3D video and... and...) world that's at YOUR scale and size.

    If you do take up Codeninja's offer, have him get Waltz of the Wizard, too, and try it out. It's awesome and free!
u/XmisterC · 5 pointsr/Vive

Floor to ceiling poles with Clamps is the best solution when you cannot affix to a wall.

I just linked those for an example - you can shop around to find ones to suit your ceiling height and aesthetic needs.


u/Simpanra · 5 pointsr/Vive

I used these poles and these clamps. They are perfect and I haven't had any problems with them at all :)

u/wh0ever · 5 pointsr/photography

I don't shoot Canon and this is a little more expensive at $110 but here's a 50mm lens that should work for your friend.
Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens
Any Canon shooters can correct me if I'm wrong but this should mount to your friend's camera and it seems pretty popular. Good luck! You sound like a thoughtful friend.

u/Dakota360ci · 5 pointsr/Locksmith
u/Justforthisreplyok · 5 pointsr/AncientCoins

>In the next few days I'll upload a couple more of my collection!

Please do. I'd be interested in seeing more posters posting, say, a whole gallery of their collection even if on a throwaway for security reasons.

I'm trying to get around to photographing my own collection, but I'm not happy with the lighting conditions that I have. May have to buy some cheap-ish USB microscope for the task, something like this.

u/no-mad · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

I got this one. I trimmed off about 1/4 inch of plastic so I could focus closer. Got rid of the flex arm and mounted to a small piece of angle iron. That keeps it a fixed distance. I then use a deck of cards to shim the ganga sample to the right height.

u/Audibled · 5 pointsr/Autoflowers

I used an old windows laptop hooked up to...

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android

u/thatlonelyasianguy · 5 pointsr/Nikon

Before I jump in to try and provide you with an answer, I want to verify the information that you gave in your posting to make sure that we're on the same page. Some quick google-fu tells me that you have the following already, which I'm hoping you can confirm.

>DX 0.2m

I'm assuming that this is the Nikon 40mm f/2.8

>DX 1.1m

I'm also assuming that this is the Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6

I'm also guessing that he has a D3300 and not a D330 (I don't think there is one, other redditors correct me if I'm wrong please) because his current kit of lenses is comprised of DX lenses. I'd like to make a couple lenses recommendations (lenses that I think are great for any kit) based on the above information.

Nikon 35mm f/1.8G

Amazon Link

Adorama Link

B&H Photo Video Link

Nikon 50mm f/1.8D (Manual focus only on the D3300 since it doesn't have an internal focus motor)

Amazon Link

Adorama Link

B&H Photo Video Link

Both of those lenses will be alright for event and outdoor photography (although having to juggle primes all the time can be a bit of a pain and the 55-200 he already has is probably better for wildlife) but each will clock in under $200, giving you some extra cash to spare if you decide to pick up a UV filter for both of those lenses - they both use 52mm threaded filters. The only thing I can see is that both of those lenses fall somewhat within the same focal distance as the 40mm f/2.8, so the only other thing I can think of is the 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G if one didn't come with the camera body when he bought it. That can be had for under $200 and would be helpful as an everyday walk-around lens instead of having to lug around different primes.

Amazon Link

Adorama Link

B&H Photo Video Link

I hope this is helpful!

*Edited for formatting.

u/coheedcollapse · 5 pointsr/IAmA

I'm a complete moron when it comes to Canon since I grew up using Nikon, but I'd say whatever you do start with a lower-end digital SLR (probably used unless you have a lot of money to spend) and a 50mm lens.

Some of the best shots that I've ever gotten with my camera have been shot through a 50mm 1.8 lens that I bought for $100 back when I first picked up an SLR.

The reason I feel that the 50mm lens is so important is because it sort of hits a trifecta of stuff that I find incredibly important in photography - especially when beginning.

A) It can produce tack sharp images with a very small initial investment. The photos that this lens can produce often looks better than some of the stuff that I crank out using lenses 10x its price.

B) The 1.8 aperture allows the photographer to shoot in very low light, which is great if you're shooting on a cheaper SLR since many of them can't handle bumping up the ISO much (and even on more expensive SLRs it's much better to stay low).

C) The fact that you can't zoom in and out with the lens really gets you thinking about composition when you shoot. Instead of twisting a ring, you're literally walking back and forth to get the composition you like. It's very rewarding.

Here's the lens I'm talking about:

Second tip is don't fall into fads. Experimentation is great with photography, but the most important thing as a photographer to do (in my opinion) is to capture reality in an interesting way BEFORE bringing it into your computer and without relying on gimmicks. Overdone HDR, toy cameras, grunge filters - they can all be fun when done in moderation, but when you start forgetting about composition, light, and everything else because you know you can just rely on a plastic camera or Photomatix to fix up your photo, you're getting lost.

Ok, crazy tangent done, third tip - bring your camera everywhere. Shoot everything. The weirdest thing that I've noticed is that some people who have taken years of photography school still can't do crap without any real world experience. As you shoot, you'll start getting better. Seek out honest critiques online and hone your skills accordingly.

Fourth - learn the basics. Don't shoot in programmed or automatic - shoot in manual, aperture, or shutter mode - finding out how changing the aperture and shutter speed changes the final photo that you get is literally the most important thing that you can learn.

There is just so much I can say to a beginning photographer. It's really hard to stop at three. I'll try to add more if I can think of a way to do it without babbling forever.


  1. Cheap camera, 50mm lens.
  2. Skip HDR, Lomo, crazy photoshop until you know the basics
  3. Take your camera everywhere
  4. Learn aperture, shutter speed
u/Emily89 · 5 pointsr/photography

After a quick research I would say: yes, this one.

However, whatever you do, you should take a lens with fixed focal length. They offer much better sharpness and higher quality in general, also they usually have bigger apertures which is good for depth of field effects.

You might also consider taking a Nikon 50 mm which is really cheap but has awesome quality (I have it and I love it) and use it with extension tubes. Those cost around 80-100$ I think (look for some that support auto focus).

u/mathematical · 5 pointsr/photography

Ah. The good ol' Rebel XT. I started with that camera, so I know for a fact it's got sucky low-light performance (a super grainy max of ISO800). You will probably need to start thinking about a camera upgrade to something that can do slightly better low-light shooting. Also, maybe invest in a "nifty fifty" (I linked a new one, but you can easily buy used), because those lenses rock in low light scenarios.

u/wordsarelouder · 5 pointsr/photocritique

I have the same camera and lens and I agree with the other commenter - Do yourself a favor and start reading/watching video - check out youtube for tutorials on how to take pictures and what all the settings mean and once you get into using manual made you can make this 100% better. Trust, me I was literally in the same boat as you, I have the t3i and the kit lens to start. If you really want to take good pictures or care about editing them in post then you should look at RAW vs JPEG - I started shooting RAW and haven't EVER looked back but I want that flexibility you might not need it.

So the focus on your girl is great, the rest of the photo was blurred due to movement. But movement wasn't really your issue - low light is what killed you here. Also, White Balance, you need to make this one colder, see how everything is a bit yellow? It's just a color balance issue that can be slightly corrected.

Since this will come up soon - If you want to make any upgrade purchases start with a 50mm prime

u/ballots_stones · 5 pointsr/photography

Learn how to adapt in low-light. I have an XS (getting a T3i soon), and the XS just doesn't have good low-light performance. That's pretty understandable though, it was $500.

  • Don't put the ISO above 800. At 1600, it's obnoxiously noisy.
  • Keep a steady hand. Having IS is great, but you have to keep steady.

    And for anything else I can think of.

  • Keep the white balance on auto, shoot in Raw mode. It can always be adjusted in Lightroom/GIMP/etc.
  • Don't shoot in auto! Keep it in Aperture priority (Av), and keep the aperture at about f/7.1 in normal lighting to get the lens at it's sharpest. Obviously you'd want a wider aperture (lower number) for certain situations (shallower depth of field)

    Last but not least, get this lens! It's the best $100 you'll spend.
u/filya · 5 pointsr/astrophotography

My current equipment :

  1. Camera : Canon T3i
  2. Lenses : Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Canon 50mm f/1.8, Canon 55-250mm f/4.0-f/5.6
  3. Tripod : Proline Dolica
  4. Software : Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom 6

    Using these, I manage to get these : Album

    I want to further my astrophotography, but realize I would need better equipment to better these.

    Which of these would be best bang for my buck for a step forward with astrophotography?

  5. A tracker : Ioptron SkyTracker OR Vixen Polarie
  6. A good solid tripod and ball head
  7. PixInsight software (Is there a cheap or free alternative to a $250 software? I tried DSS, but found it to be inconsistent with results)

    I know a good answer to this would be 'everything', but I can't get myself to spend a lot of $$ at this moment. I could spend a few hundred on one of these, and then at a later point re-evaluate.

    Thanks for hooking me into this awesome hobby!
u/TyrannosaurusSloth · 5 pointsr/photography

the 85mm might be a bit to long for portraits on crop. I would suggest a 50mm canon or I guess the yongnuo just came out.

u/IronColumn · 5 pointsr/bicycling

That's just regular depth of field, not tilt shift. Probably using a thrifty fifty or similar

u/sirmatrick · 5 pointsr/Cameras

Get the 50mm f/1.8 lens. It is a great all-purpose lens, especially for portraits. Even a used one is a great deal.

u/jcitme · 5 pointsr/photography

> So far the advice from everyone I have spoken to has been to get a cheap body and spend more money on lenses. Is this the correct approach for a newbie?


>I am thinking that I will pick up a canon 550d second hand if possible. How would this fare as an entry level camera?

Pretty good. Anything from the Canon 550D to the 700D would be a good pick, they're all pretty similar.

>Which lenses should I look at? The main types of photographs I'll be taking will be of people at parties and of scenery when out and about.

Get the camera without a lens, as the lens that normally comes with the camera sucks. Buy a 17-50mm f/2.8 zoom lens, and the Canon nifty fifty 50mm f/1.8 prime lens. For the 17-50, the best option would be either the Tamron or the Sigma version, the latter costs more but is faster and better autofocus. Then get the 50mm prime.

u/HybridCameraRevoluti · 5 pointsr/Filmmakers

Hi /u/Rebelarch - it sounds like you come from fixed lens cameras. With an interchangeable lens camera, you can get shallower depth of field simply by buying a faster lens.

For less than the cost of a new camera and lens, you might try a [$799 Sigma 18-35mm f1.8 for Canon] ( or, if that's too expensive, a [$125 Canon 50mm f1.8] (

Wide open, either of these lenses will give you nice and shallow depth of field on your T2i.

Good luck!

u/mcfarlie6996 · 5 pointsr/flashlight

>Basically I'm looking for one that runs on AA batteries, is relatively easy to pocket or doesn't take up too much space on my duty belt; something decently bright to cut through foliage and search for objects/people.

>I've been looking at the Nitecore EA41/21 and MT2A.

"Cut through foliage". So you're looking for something with good throw/tight hotspot? Just remember, the larger the reflector, the more throw. The EA21/MT2A isn't going to have the throw that the EA41 has due to the smaller reflector on them. There's really no good throwers in those smaller sizes but for the EA41 size, I'd suggest getting the Thrunite TN41 XP-L HI instead which puts the EA41 to shame. This guy is 5mm shorter but 5mm wider but the thing that excels in this guy is the XP-L HI emitter which is designed for even more improved throw over other emitters on the market.

As many suggest, rechargeable are the way to go which I'll show you. I've actually borrowed the EA41 from my buddy to test which here is the runtime on High output. As you can see the NiMH rechargeable Eneloop batteries put both Energizer and Rayovac to shame. Yes Eneloop may be more expensive up front but they can be recharged up to 2000 times. So even though we know in the graph that 4 Eneloop batteries out-perform 4 Alkaline batteries, lets just pretend that they were equal. So you can get a 4 pack with a charger for $18 which would replace at least 8000 Alkaline batteries (4 rechargeable AA x 2000 recharge cycles). Can you get that many Alkalines for that price? Buy a backup 4 pack and you just replace another 8000 batteries along with having a backup of your own set so you'll always have a fresh set of batteries waiting on the charger.

One note, if you ever do think you'll get into Lithium-Ion batteries, I'd suggest getting a different charger like the Nitecore D4. I have this guy which can charge both Li-ion & NiMH batteries of many many sizes.

As for Lithium-Ion flashlight suggestions (just to throw them out there), the Armytek Predator XP-L HI is nearly best in class which it should have the same throw as the Thrunite mentioned above. It has a 5mm smaller head, obviously the body is thinner, but it's 40mm longer due to the tail-switch. Also check out the Nitecore MH27 which is nearly similar but has a little better user interface. An added note for the Predator that uses an 18650 Li-ion battery, a single high capacity 18650 battery out-performs over 6 AA Alkaline batteries, even though it's not much bigger than one. This means you can get more power and runtime in smaller applications. Plus these can be recharged as well for 500 cycles so they replace over 2500 AA batteries.

u/adum_korvic · 5 pointsr/Games

Nah that doesn't work. You should just buy a bundle that includes an eneloop battery charging bay.

Here's the 4 pack with a charging bay that I bought, it's 18 bucks.

u/Ericbazinga · 5 pointsr/OculusQuest

Go with this. $20, gets you 4 AA batteries plus a charger. The controllers only need one each so you can use one pair while charging the other, then swap.

u/Zak · 5 pointsr/flashlight

Something you should know is that the T10, like all higher-output flashlights powered by AA batteries, is designed for use with NiMH rechargeables.

Alkalines will work in a pinch, but full output on high won't be sustainable for very long, and battery life on high will be short. Alkalines also have a tendency to leak and ruin devices. The T10 leaves plenty of room in your budget for a pack of Eneloops with charger.

u/DrunkenFist · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I use these instead. a bit cheaper than the p&c kit, batteries have good life, and you can actually use them for other things if you need to.

u/ProtonMurphy · 5 pointsr/Vive

These are the stands and I got these pivoting mounts so I can angle the lighthouses down a bit.

u/makedough · 5 pointsr/Guelph

Sorry to hear about situation!

For $40, this might give you piece of mind.

My neighbour recently caught someone on camera breaking into his truck and the cops caught the guy.

u/jeepster98 · 5 pointsr/sysadmin

WYSE is what I use. Zero issues with them whatsoever...

u/danny6690 · 5 pointsr/security

I use the Wyze cam V2 from Amazon and I installed a custom firmware on it (very easy setup)

Those cameras are very cheap (26$ USD) and very reliable

Custom firmware

Edit: Amazon usa link

Pm if you need help with the custom firmware installation

u/mrmoonpie · 5 pointsr/washingtondc

This little $26 camera helped us figure out what was tunneling under our fence. Plenty of better cameras out there, but this one is good enough for occasional use.

u/nal1200 · 5 pointsr/photography

The lens is easy - get a new/used Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35mm f/1.8G

The body will be somewhat subjective. This is the first one I had, and I'd recommend it. Used is around $250-300. Nikon D5100

Edit: Instead of the 35mm lens, you can get the FX 50mm 1.8g, which is about $50 more, which will be better for portraits. The 35mm will give you more versatility. Neither will be all that great for landscape. I recommend the 35mm since it's the equivalent focal length of 53mm, which is pretty close to the 'standard' focal length.

u/wanakoworks · 5 pointsr/AskPhotography

If you want a general purpose prime on an APSC camera, 35mm is the sweet spot. I run Canon gear, but on my old 80D, I had the most satisfaction using a 35mm f/2. My brother uses a D7100 and I recommended him a 35mm. He got a 35mm f/1.8G and has been extremely happy with it and never takes it off. It's cheap and gives great image quality for the price. That will equal about 52mm on your body which is a generally wide enough FOV for environmental shots but also narrow enough for portraits, with blown out background. The most recent maybe 15-20 pics are with the 35mm, just to give you an idea.

He has a 50mm, as well, but was very unhappy with it because it was not wide enough for general use. Someone recommended him that one without taking into account the crop factor of his camera. Those "nifty fifties" are great for Full-frame/FX cameras for general use, but are actually closer to portrait lenses on APSC.

I would suggest you go to a camera store or something and try it out real quick and see if you like it before buying.

u/Hitokiri_Ace · 5 pointsr/AnimeFigures

Nikon d3200 body, and a 1.8 35mm nikkor lens.

Probably the best bang for your buck you can get. (imo) ~$350-ish total

-good platform to start learning on
-great picture quality-good all purpose focal length 35mm (50mm equivelent on the aps-c sensor)
-good low light performance with that fast prime lens

Feel free to ask any questions.

u/bobbfwed · 5 pointsr/AskPhotography

First things that come to my mind:

  1. This tripod is so absolutely fantastic, and cheap!
  2. A fast lens or two. Either a zoom at f/2.8, or my suggestion would be a prime (50mm or 85mm -- or both) at f/1.4 or f/1.8. These primes will yield incredible results, and are reasonably priced.
  3. A flash. Something that can be used off or on camera. Something you can slave/master would be best.
  4. A polarizer for your best lens(es). Polarizers make a huge difference when taking landscape photos or photos with a lot of reflections.
  5. One of these two backpacks could make being mobile so much easier! This one or this one. I have owned the first for a couple years now -- taken it all around the world, don't have a single complaint.

    Hope some of these ideas help.
u/Sether2121 · 5 pointsr/yugioh

A couple of my MTG friends use this type of camera bag for their events. Areas for deck boxes, dice bags, mats, snacks/water.

u/mull3t · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Could try updating the controller, if it was recently purchased you've got 30 days I'd return it and say it was defective. In the department of batteries [Save yourself the trouble and buy these. Bar none the best rechargables ever made.] (

u/Matty1138 · 5 pointsr/xbox360

There's a similar product with Panasonic Eneloop branding now. The price is cheaper and the charger is much better, according to the battery-reviewing guy on Amazon.

u/Im2Nelson4u · 5 pointsr/Gameboy

Eneloop is my favorite.

The standard version is cheap and performs very well (2000mah) and widely available at most stores

The XX or pro version is expensive and only last 500 charges but hold 25% more power (2500mah) which will mean an additional couple of hours

I prefer the pro version if you can get it cheap since 500 charge cycles will last you atleast 2 years of use on a portable like the gameboy. Found them on sale at my local camera store for $20 during the holidays

while I use the regular version on devices that gets charged daily like my gaming mouse

u/cosmicknight · 5 pointsr/vancouver

You can get some pretty decent binoculars to look up at the moon or even planets. But if you decide to get serious and choose to get a telescope, I recommend nothing smaller than 6" telescope. This should get you started to explore the sky.

Some info here:

u/Kate_Pansy · 5 pointsr/santashelpers

I got my space-loving ex these binoculars for stargazing and he really loves them. I also got him a print of the heart and soul nebula, if she has space (heh) for art on her walls. I think this goes with her interests and is also pretty lovey-dovey (heart and soul!). I used the hq image from NASA and got a poster made through a company in the UK (I'm sure there are other companies who do the same with good prices).

u/cougar572 · 5 pointsr/photography

Light, Stable, Cheap. Pick 2.

At that price point your gonna endanger your gear if you want something light. I don't have experience with them but the cheapest tripod I've seen recommended a lot is this Dolica

u/Snake973 · 5 pointsr/photography

I shoot with the same body and same heaviest lens. This is my tripod, works lovely, never had an issue with it, and I picked it up after having a really light/kinda cruddy amazon basics tripod for several months, until i was trying to do some landscape pictures in high wind and I could hardly get the thing to hold still.

u/spangborn · 5 pointsr/photography

I've got the last one you listed there - it's super cheap, but a quality tripod. It's pretty solid.

You can get it without the bundle on Amazon for cheaper:

u/Bulldogg658 · 5 pointsr/photography

Have you considered the Dolica? 5 segments of twist locks would make me want to shoot myself.

u/meatatarian · 5 pointsr/photography

Nikon actually makes a fantastic 35 mm 1.8 that I would recommend over the 50 mm 1.8 on the crop sensored d5100. 35mm on a crop is very close to the normal zoom and range of vision you get with your eyes, so it's more intuitive to use. Plus, it's only $200.

Check it out on Amazon. Note: It only works on DX Nikons, not FX.

u/whiskeysnowcone · 5 pointsr/photography

That's a shame. I did find some 10mm and 18mm lenses for the D5500 but the prices are just outrageous. Looks like my kit lens will have to do for wide angles. I still might invest in the 35mm prime. seems to be a good price for a great lens.

Thanks for the input!

u/SPOOFE · 5 pointsr/Nikon

D3200 and 35mm f/1.8 DX. The camera is lightweight and simple, with excellent technical image quality. Controls and build quality aren't as robust as pricier cameras, and the step-up model, the D5200, has a flip-out screen. The lens performs very well for the money, and other options start getting pricy really fast in some cases.

u/SpinningDespina · 4 pointsr/sydney

Consider getting some good binoculars if you're a beginner. Million times easier to use, cheaper, you can explore much quicker, wider field of view. I find it a much more intuitive way to explore!
I have a pair of these - which are perfect for starting out.

u/ccurzio · 4 pointsr/photography

This is my go-to budget tripod recommendation. It's quite good for the price.

u/dshafik · 4 pointsr/photography

My fiancé buys me neat (and cheap!) camera gear every year for christmas, so far I've gotten:

  • Gary Fong Puffer $18.99 (a flash diffuser)
  • Targus Battery Grip $25.98 (this is somewhat camera specific)
  • Hot shoe spirit level $5 (this is cheap as hell and really cool!)
  • Canon Monopod $34.95 (I have the Monopod 100 but it's no longer available. These are great for when a tripod is too bulky and sturdy enough to use as a light walking stick)
  • Dolica Tripod $39.99 (Great prosumer tripod, not a pro tripod though)
  • Lens cap keeper $1.91 (sticks to any lens cap and then attaches to the lens body to stop the lens cap from falling off)

    All of these things are pretty awesome for me, a serious hobbyist with a Nikon D5000 DSLR.

    Having said that, what I want for Christmas is:

  • 52mm Neutral Density Filters ($31.99) and 62mm Neutral Density Filters ($42.99), these are the same set for both my lenses, they let you do longer exposures under brighter light conditions. I want them for a shoot in early December though so will probably buy them before that myself ;)
  • A gradiated ND filter ($11.99), for the same reasons as above but only for one half of the exposure, with a gradient transition
  • Panoramic Image tripod head ($16.95) for creating seamless panoramas

    Hopefully this helps!
u/fivethirdstwo · 4 pointsr/AskPhotography

You should seriously consider picking up a 35mm DX F/1.8 instead. Thats what I did for my d3200 and it is amazing what it did for me in terms of flexibility for exposure. I recently got a hand me down 18-105mm and it just feels restrictive in comparison.

u/ForwardTwo · 4 pointsr/ReviewThis

I wrote a huge thread about buying Nikon as I am studying photography and am one of the biggest Nikon fanboys on the planet. I'll paste it all here. The D3100 and the D5100 are EXCELLENT cameras, and will blow your mind as an entry level DSLR. Do not fall into the D7000 trap, it's not worth it due to it's AF problems. I own a D300, D80, and GF1. Here's everything I had to say... It's lengthy. All about which lenses you should go for with your D3100/D5100

The 35mm f1.8: The lens is fixed at 35mm, so no zooming. However, the fact that it is f1.8 means it has AWESOME low light capabilities. I always recommend wide angles to new DSLR owners because it really introduces you to what the camera is capable of. You'll get a grip of aperture values and creative bokeh use; it is wonderful. Plus it seems like everyone loves that 'large sensor' look with beautiful background blur (bokeh) and very sharp foreground details, and wide angle lenses at very low apertures will definitely give you that. Just mind you that 35mm is kind of a short length, but you can live with it. (My GF1 only has a 20mm lens attached to it, and it is still one of my favorite lenses to date from Panasonic.) The price is to DIE FOR.

55-300mm f4.5-f5.6: While I don't exactly like variable aperture zooms, they are are fantastically priced. Don't expect ridiculous zoom levels though, but it'll still zoom pretty well; 300mm is a fairly good zoom. The reason why I don't really like variable apertures is that sometimes you completely forget about them, and if you are shooting in manual that will absolutely kill your shot if you weren't shooting in RAW.

So I'll be zoomed at 100mm, probably at f4.9, and then zoom to 280mm. Suddenly, I'm at f5.5 without changing it myself because the lens doesn't support f4.9 at that zoom. Kind of a downside, but you just have to keep it in mind and shoot in RAW.

There is another option if you don't want variable apertures however.

Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 VR II: This is the beast lens. If you want to save up money for a lens, I promise this is the one you want to do that for.

My 70-200mm VR is a lens I refuse to leave at home when going on a trip, it is simply my favorite lens EVER. This is the next version of it, but it is cheaper because of demand.

But now you see the downside to low aperture telephoto: price. $2,400 isn't exactly the most affordable lens on the planet, but that's why it is worth it to buy this a while after you have had your DSLR and have saved up some money for that killer lens. This, paired with the 35mm f1.8 I put above there, would be a killer kit. It would be fantastic for low light conditions, even with the telephoto.

I'm a loyal Nikon shooter for a reason: They are quality. While I'm a bit disappointed with how long it took them to jump into DSLR video, the quality of their cameras have always pleasantly surprised me ( Not counting the D7000 of course ;) ). The D3100 was one of those cameras that I just loved, the price is fantastic and the quality of the camera itself is mind blowing for the price.

My first camera was a D80, and I fell in love with it. That was a while ago though, and once I picked up my D300... Magic. I had never used such a powerful camera before, and it blew my mind what the D300 was capable of. While it is getting a bit old (Older Sensor, still an old 12MP with lesser low light capabilities than the newer cameras), the auto-focus points are fantastic and the overall speed and RAW processing power of the camera have never failed to make me smile.

I have a nice little savings account for a D3x or the D4 line once it is released. ;D

The D3100 is a camera that you'll probably keep for a long time. It is a quality camera, like all Nikons. It is powerful, and is considered to be one of the 'new age' DSLRs: lower price, greater power. Hopefully this camera will turn you into a life long Nikon fan. ;) Have fun with it, that's the one major rule. Don't pay attention to any of the shooting rules if you feel like you have a better idea; follow your eyes, not some other person's laws (Rule of thirds, etc.).
Good Luck! And Have Fun! :D

u/finaleclipse · 4 pointsr/photography

> How much would that set me back? How many lenses would be sufficient?

Depends on what you're buying, if you're going crazy then some lenses can set you back a lot, others not so much. And the number of sufficient lenses depends on what you're shooting. I use my 24-105 for general purpose, my 70-200 for events/getting closer to stuff, my 85mm for portraits, my 35mm for lower light events/general purpose walk-around, my 14mm for real estate, and since I rarely use my 50mm anymore I'm attempting to sell it and replace it with a 100mm macro instead.

> If I knew where I was going and what I had in mind before hand would I just bring one or two lenses?

That's what I do, usually I'll have my general-purpose EF 24-105mm f4L IS with me, and then something else that's more specialized for what I'm doing. If I'm going hiking, I'll take my 70-200mm in case I see some wildlife. If I'm doing more street stuff, I'll bring my 35mm f2 IS instead. No need for me to lug stuff around that I don't plan on using.

> Need to research the difference in those more.

Mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras are effectively just DSLRs without the mirror. Here's a simple diagram of the differences. Mirrorless tend to be smaller in size and weight, and lenses designed for them can also be smaller. The trade-off is that they lose the optical viewfinder in favor of an electronic one (if they have a viewfinder at all), and tend to have lower battery life than their DSLR counterparts so having a spare or two isn't a bad idea.

$500 can get you a good start with pretty much any system you want to start building. Also don't be afraid of buying used, especially from reputable dealers like It can save you a good chunk of money in the long run.

u/tchirman · 4 pointsr/photography

I highly recommend this lens It is sharper overall, and is a great focal length on a D5200. Also, Nikon DOES NOT accept Canon Lenses, even with an adaptor.

u/GT_GZA · 4 pointsr/xboxone

None. Don't waste your money on the proprietary battery packs and chargers. Get some good rechargeable AA batteries, preferably Eneloop, and a decent charger (multiple options there). Rechargeable AAs are cheaper, last longer, and are more versatile because can use rechargeable AA (and AAA) in many, many common devices. Search Eneloop on Amazon, and you'll find many different options with various numbers/sizes of batteries and many include a charger. The bundled Eneloop-branded charger will be adequate for most people's needs.
Just an example--4 AA Eneloops and charger for $16:

These are way better than the proprietary junk.

u/shadama · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Just remember most eneloops can be recharged 2100 times the pros are only good for 500 or so charges.

Edit: here would be my reccomendation instead and its only 20.00 bucks

u/SirEDCaLot · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Get Eneloop batteries. That's 4 batteries and the charger for $18.

Amusingly, Eneloop batteries seem to last longer in the XB1 controller than normal AAs...

u/MeestaJohnny · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I wasn't a huge fan of it and instead went with some eneloops. They were cheaper and they last quite a bit longer than the rechargeable pack (I dont know by how much). But I've had these for years and they've done me right. Cant go wrong.

Here's the link:

u/DerDaku · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Well, since the Apple Batteries are basically just rebranded Eneloops, yes, its overpriced.
Get yourself this and this. You'll pay a little bit less, have two more batteries and a nice charger for charging up to 4 batteries at a time.

u/drfoqui · 4 pointsr/wii

I'm not sure if your hate for AA batteries includes the rechargeable kind but I think the most practical solution is eneloops (or any good rechargeable AA batteries). I use these and they are great. It is cheaper than any Wii battery pack and you can use them for other devices.

u/Towdogg · 4 pointsr/amateurradio

So I wanted to build a very light weight portable antenna mast to use during public service events. Amazon covered all the parts with prime shipping on most. Here’s how I did it.


NMO to SO239

9’ mast

Take the L bracket and hammer it flat.

Drill out the center hole so it will fit over the center post on the mast

Tighten with nut

Attach adapter plus your favourite NMO antenna and some feed line...

Voila. Portable light weight 9’ mast

Also> it’s a 2 pack. You theoretically could use it to setup NVIS HF antennas. If it gets windy, you could guy wire it to some tent stakes. This came out awesome and I can’t wait to set up at our next event!

u/burner110011 · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

I use a 60x - but keep in mind, that its basically impossible to see anything with it when you hold it in your hands. I usually cut a small part of the bud of and lay it on a flat surface and but the magnifying glass above it. You can also increase the magnigication to 120x with this model

u/Applestodapples · 4 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

Thanks! A decent eyelash curler and layering two types of mascara made a huge difference in my mascara game. The lens is dis one

u/maximaLz · 4 pointsr/astrophotography


Sadly, around the 150 mark, you won't find much for widefield.

However, at this price point, your best bet is a prime 50mm f1.8 lens, the f1.8 means it will collect a lot of light, but the 50mm means you'll have a much tighter field of view. It is not a bad thing though, as you can start to capture some details on some DSOs like M42 pretty easily if you are in an okay light pollution area. You can also make panoramas, some of the best milky way shots I've seen are actually exactly that. Huge panoramas!

This is a great article about just that.

Let me know if you need more informations about that, and good luck!

EDIT : Be aware though, that at 50mm, your maximum exposure should not exceed 10s. This is not very much, especially if you go to f2.8 for better image quality. The amazing panorama stitches you see out of 50mm lenses are done with tracked mounts such as a Orion SkyAdventurer mount!

u/gingerstick · 4 pointsr/Filmmakers

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens

Called the "nifty fifty"

Super cheap and great for learning composition

u/superish64 · 4 pointsr/rawdenim

So I’m looking into buying a nicer camera. I have a buddy that’s really into photography who recommended a Canon t3i or t4i and then a 50mm lens.

I was wondering if anybody here had some suggestions on sources for explaining differences in lens types or could explain the difference between a 50mm and a “75-300mm” lens. I’ve also been comparing the t3i, t4i and t2i using this and can’t really see a reason to go for the more expensive options rather than just finding a used t2i on craigslist.

I’m also totally open to other camera/lens suggestions.

It’s worth noting that I’d mostly be using the camera to take pictures of people/what they’re wearing. My max budget is $400 and I’d prefer to find something ~$300 used off craigslist or something.


In other news, the semester's almost done (thank god) and I'm getting more excited to go to Seattle/Portland the closer it gets.

What's everyone up to?

u/StradlatersFirstName · 4 pointsr/videography

Check out the 50mm f/1.8. It's a perfect pairing for your 550D because of its wide aperture (which means more light) and low price. Just be aware that this lens has a fixed focal length which means you won't be able to zoom in or out.

u/sigmoidx · 4 pointsr/astrophotography

What do you guys think about the gear I'm planning to buy for astro?

I have a canon Rebel Sl2 unmodified camera.

Skytracker 390
(I'm considering the skyguider pro also)

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM 133

Celestron 15x70 100

GEEKOTO Tripod 200cm, Camera Tripod for DSLR 106

Rokinon 135mm f2.0 690

u/Danake · 4 pointsr/synthdiy

Someone posted what I use but deleted their comment so:



I use a hot air station:

Pcb Holder:

Microscope to find bad joints and loose solder balls:

Solder paste:

I like these to clean paste or flux

Conical Tip for small pin fixing

Beveled tip for drag soldering if needed

ST-Link-v2 (programmer)


What I do is put a glob of paste on a piece of paper and dip the syringe tip lightly to make a smaller glob hang off the tip, then place the small glob from the tip on the pad I'm doing. I know this isn't the right way but its the easiest I've done.


When the pieces are in place I set the hot air to 450ish and lower air flow so it doesn't blow pieces off the board. When the solder solidifies most the time everything gets aligned to the pads (capacitors will randomly stick straight up but is fixed by poking it with tweezers)


I start with Ic's then check under the microscope for bridges or loose solder balls. then resistors/caps. Double check again for anything wrong and if its good program it with the st-link. Once thats good I put on the pots/buttons/leds


For faceplates, I tried at first to 3d print them. Didn't look the best, made it look cheap. So I just order faceplates when I order the pcb's now. They cost a lot but I want them to look nice when done.

u/tinyplantas · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

Thanks! I used this usb microscope

u/Riley_UK · 4 pointsr/knifeclub

Fuck yeah I do, it was hella cheap.

u/bealetonplayus1 · 4 pointsr/microgrowery

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android Linux

u/wepawet1 · 4 pointsr/Autoflowers

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android Linux

u/ForeignRobot · 4 pointsr/videography

What I've been using if I need to go portable (i.e. battery powered and no other power source) and it's not a large scale production, I've been using a couple of these cheaper LED lights - - mounted on these cheap light stands - .

The lights can get quite bright, but they can also be used pretty dim, so I really like them for what they are. The colors aren't perfect, so in the past I've sometimes used actual light gels and taped them over the light (almost always using the diffusing filter). They run off AA batteries, or you could use a few different options of camera batteries.

You could use several different light stands, I just linked you to the cheap ones I bought for these lights. One downside of those particular stands is that the pole isn't completely circular, so you can't just twist it to get the light in the direction you want, you have to actually rotate the stand itself. Not always an issue, but could be a hassle in tight spaces or on uneven terrain.

u/Xaneroth · 4 pointsr/FoodPorn

Those lights are only $25 and they mount on top of a DSLR if you don't have the stands for them

u/TonyDarko · 4 pointsr/photography

That was an excellent and thoughtful gift, kudos to you. Aside from the lenses, there are a few other things that help a lot when starting out in photography (I'm just figuring this out as I'm pretty new):

  • A tripod can help if he wants to take low-light pictures and set up really long shutter times (it basically makes it so that no shaking messes up his pictures) and it can help to take pictures of you guys. I'm planning on bringing one for a trip with my girlfriend and I so we can take cool pictures where there may not be other people to help out.

  • A good bag or backpack would be great, increasingly so as the amount of gear that he has goes up. It's tough to carry around all that crap, and these bags make it pretty easy to fit.

  • a strap, pretty self explanatory. carrying around a DSLR in one hand sucks.

  • Extra memory cards and possibly an external hard drive are nice because RAW camera files take up a toooon of storage and having backups is always nice in the case that a really important picture gets corrupted.

    As for lenses:

    Nikon 35mm prime (basically allows him to take pretty nice, wide open landscape pictures at great quality)

    50mm prime widely regarded as the best starting lens (another no zoom lens that is an all-around all-star that is pretty versatile. good for portraits, landscapes, etc)
u/kilo_bravo_three · 4 pointsr/Unexpected

AmazonBasics 60-Inch Lightweight Tripod with Bag

The swaying in the beginning is indicative of image stabilization being turned on while tripod-mounted. Many cameras have a tripod mode that turns off IS.

u/uninc4life2010 · 4 pointsr/Tricking

If you're just starting out, just use your phone in conjunction with a phone clamp/mount and a tripod. You don't need anything fancy. Don't go out and spends hundreds on a DSLR or a GoPro. Once you get better at filming, invest in something a little nicer.



u/la_fortezza · 4 pointsr/longrange

I've built something similar using point-to-point Wifi gear. It kinda sucks having to align to line up two antennae but you get much better range.

I am using Ubiquiti Networks ( equipment used in
long haul Wireless ISPs. This equipment is inexpensive and uses
standard technology: Power-Over-Ethernet (POE), Wifi, so it's easy to tweak.

I'm using a 9 amp-hour battery and current draw is ~0.6 amps so that
comes out 10 hours or so. It would be trivial to tack on a Solar panel
or bigger battery. The charge controller takes POE as an input so it's
easy to recharge the battery.

Here are a couple pics:

Shows the camera side of the setup:

Shows two .30 cal shots my tripod took and kept standing. :-)

The price tag for my setup came out to $438, here is the parts list:

2 x AmazonBasics 60-Inch Lightweight Tripod with Bag

POE/Solar Dual Input 12V Battery Charge Control (TP-SCPOE-1224)

12V 9AH AGM SLA Battery (TPBAT12-9)

Power extender over ethernet for Foscam (WS-POE-5v-10w)

Foscam FI8905W Outdoor Wireless/Wired IP Camera

Ubiquiti NanoStation M2

24V 1A 24W Wall Plug Passive POE Inserter (TP-POE-24-WP)

3 x 10FT 24AWG Cat6A 500MHz STP Ethernet Bare Copper Network Cable -

MTM Ammo Can (Forest Green)

DC Inline Watt Meter and Power Analyzer, Powerpole Ends

Revo 5" Hand Grip for HDSLRs and Video Cameras (Black) - Used for mast to strap Wifi antenna to

1" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
Hardware Store

u/krunchynoodlez · 4 pointsr/Cameras

If you're just getting into it, I would consider a camera body that costs $500 USD or less. My own personal recommendation is the Sony A6000. The body and kit lens is small and compact compared to a traditional DSLR like the Canon T6i and performs just as well. It also has the option of being able to mount vintage lenses on it due to it's smaller form factor and the lens mount being closer to the sensor. This means you can get good but cheap manual lenses from back in the day for often times $100 USD or less plus a $18 USD converter mount.

If you have any questions about this camera system (i own the A6000) or in general, please feel free to ask either through comments or pm me. Shameless plug ( for example photos)

Also. It sounds like you want to take a lot of landscapes, and for that you want a lens with a low focal length. Now, the kit lens that comes with cameras is nice and all, but if you want some real stunning pictures, you'll get a better quality prime wide-angle lens. "Prime" meaning the lens can't zoom and "wide-angle" meaning you have a wider field of view. Since it doesn't need to move, there's less glass needed, and the quality of the picture is better. Something that's 12mm to 20mm should do the trick. I'll link a personal recommendation below should you choose to go with the A6000.

Again, i want to emphasize to buy used if possible. Especially on lenses. You'll get severe discounts compared to buying something brand new. Typically people take good care of their lenses, and if you can meet the person before buying, a little legwork can save you a bundle of money.

Camera with kit lens (i recommend buying used/refurb locally if possible)

Recommended wide angle lens for landscape with the A6000:

an example of a good vintage lens:

an example of a converter to convert the mount of a vintage lens to the Sony E-mount

Guy with a dedicated blog to attaching vintage lenses to the Sony E mount system (he uses a Sony A7, which is more expensive, but the A6000 uses the same mount system, so it still all applies):

u/anubisjak · 4 pointsr/Cameras

All manufacturers make a "budget" 50mm. Pentax is the best for my money, then Canon, but the Nikon one is DEFINITELY better than this, and it's not that much more expensive.

Definitely worth buying over this one - I promise. You're probably only looking at a 40 dollar difference.

u/peter__venkman · 4 pointsr/photography

They should be getting her a t3i. Or a t2i.

The difference between SDXC and SDHC cards, from what I know, is mainly how much data storage they support. SDHC, or Secure Digital Extended Capacity, can support up to 2 TB, 2.0 limits this to about 32 GB. The new 4.0 format will fix this.

SDHC, or Secure Digital High Capacity, are rated up to 32 GB, run on 2.0, and are known for their compatibility.

Is one BETTER than the other? I don't think I am qualified to say that, but I think SDHC will be a better bet for now. I am not even sure if the t3/t2i/t3i support 32 GB. But you don't have to take my word for it.

If you can afford it, buy this lens for her. Tell her to use that with her kit lens for awhile until she gets the hang of her camera.

I would also look at Kata Bags

If you be stackin' benjamins like a real pimp yo (sorry I'm really white) then get her Lightroom 3


DSLR. I just say SLR, but some people have sticks in their buttholes about terminology. (I mean shit, I corrected you, right?)

u/2013orBust · 4 pointsr/videography

Hmmm. I like to have at least one prime. The Nifty Fifty is cheap, and if you must get another zoom with that $600, you should at least get this too.

u/adivirgi · 4 pointsr/food

How do you like the 60d? I was using the 50mm for most of these shots. It's an inexpensive lens, amazing for portraits of people, and great for food and drinks. Link below to the exact lens. Highly recommend.

Also check out the Food and People sections of my photography site if you want to see more of what that lens can do. Feel free to message me if you have more questions :)

u/ErrantWhimsy · 4 pointsr/funny

Nice! This shot was taken with the Canon Rebel T3i, just the step above yours. The kit lens is just alright, if you want to get some seriously amazing shots, invest the $100 in the nifty fifty lens. The details and clarity will amaze you.

I think you have potential. Seek out more of your friends for some portrait practice! If it is a sunny day, set your camera to ISO 100, an aperture less than f8, and adjust your shutter speed until the exposure is accurate.

If you end up taking more shots, let me know how it goes!

u/naux · 4 pointsr/photography

do you know what kind of lenses she has? Do you also know what kind of Canon camera she has? There will be numbers and letters on the right side of the body if you have it facing you.

Is probably one of the most popular "cheapest" lenses for Canon.

u/Niqulaz · 4 pointsr/photography

I can give you a few of the most important pieces of advice, and answer the most common questions right away.

  1. Yes, at the moment you'll do fine with the kit lens. You have no idea about what you're doing anyway at the moment. So you don't need anything else. By all means, if you get a deal that involves an extra lens at a reduced price, then go for it. But that's just about it for now.

  2. Understanding Exposure. Buy it. Read it. It is without a doubt one of the best books you can purchase when you're starting out with photography.

  3. Now that you have a basic understanding of what the knobs and dials and buttons do, you will discover that your equipment has limitations. So yes, you do need another lens. I recommend the Canon 50mm f/1.8 , also known as the "nifty fifty" or the "plastic fantastic". That should cover all your needs in low light. You could do well with a telezoom as well. Any cheap-ass lens will do as a start, until you learn to hold your camera steady and you know what you're doing wrong. Then, and only then is it time to upgrade.

  4. After getting what I mentioned above, you need to think a bit more about what you're gonna do, and what you really need. Gear Acquisition Syndrome is a serious problem, which can end up costing you thousands. There's a good chance you will need a monopod or tripod. You will probably find yourself wanting a flash. A polarizing filter is almost a necessity if you want to take pictures of nature.

  5. DO NOT THROW AWAY THE KIT LENS. People will be lining up around the block to tell you how terrible your canon EF-S 18-55mm is, should you end up buying a rebel. DO NOT LISTEN TO THEM.
    The time to throw out the kit-lens and replace it with a better standard lens, is when you understand for yourself why you need to throw out your kit lens and replace it with something better. You will eventually get to a point where it's your equipment and not your skill that's holding back the quality of your pictures. That time wont come around this year. Quite probably not next year either.

  6. Good luck. Welcome to a hobby that will cost you a lot of money, time and frustration. Remember, the only way to become a better photographer, is to take loads of pictures. Every mistake is a learning opportunity.
u/Starborn999 · 4 pointsr/Astronomy

It kind of depends on how deep your going to get into it. If your just sniffing about astronomy for the first time, then go for it. It's 42 bucks and you can sell it at a yard sale if you don't like it, you might actually turn someone on to astronomy with it

If you think you actually might want to get into astronomy as something of a hobby, go with binoculars first, good ones are a bit pricey but you can do some excellent viewing with them, I started with and still use these

These are excellent and not to heavy so your shaking all the time, but give great views, in dark skies I've gotten all four gallelian moons and a couple of Jupiters equatorial bands

And of astronomy ends up not being for you, you have a great set of binoculars for the upcoming zombie apocalypse

Edit-hey I just promoted a celestron product, can I get a hook up ???

u/FrugalPrice · 4 pointsr/botwatch

Here's an example.

/u/frugalpricebot sony a6000 camera

u/SoCaLLbeer · 4 pointsr/xboxone

Play and charge kits are typically poor quality. Was on Xbox 360 as well. Get a good set of rechargable AAs with a good charger.. they last longer between charge and you always have a charged pair ready to go. I use these they are awesome, charger is per cell so no matching needed. .. Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/TheSwami · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:

u/MayoFetish · 4 pointsr/ProRevenge

Get a few cheap cameras and point them out windows where your dog plays. These are $25 and we have 2 of them. They works great. They just need wifi and power.

u/rsop · 4 pointsr/wyzecam

So in terms of an international distributor, they just allow Amazon to handle it?

Unfortunately, Amazon AU lets just say is fucked

Amazon US does ship to Australia, works out about $50 a unit though.

Will definitely look forward when you will be able to handle international orders or at least match your price on Amazon.

u/MeatyJonesTheRapper · 4 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin

Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)

Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.

Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose

90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow

4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer

2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"

Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM

Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller

Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply

Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable

Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)

2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow

Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter

Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan

Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil

Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer

Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)

Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!

u/akelew · 4 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL
u/redkulat · 4 pointsr/askTO
u/megluesta · 4 pointsr/Cameras

Only the lens of a (D)SLR camera will affect the aperture in any way. If the largest aperture you are achieving is 3.5, I am guessing that you are currently using the kit lens (the lens that came with the camera). To achieve a larger aperture I suggest a prime lens (a lens that only has one focal length = cannot zoom) because the tend to have much bigger maximum aperture. for the d3000 i suggest the 35mm 1:1.8G DX as it is specifically designed for dx cameras like your own, it is about at normal view, and best yet it has a great large aperture.

u/Drache · 4 pointsr/photography

Amazonbasics Camera Bag

Fairly reasonable, I really like it. Feels solid, lots of compartments. Also rather discrete so no one guesses it's a camera bag.

u/MettaWorldWarTwo · 4 pointsr/magicTCG

Amazon Basic DSLR Bags work great to carry your gear. However, I'd suggest figuring out what formats and decks you're realistically going to play and only bring what makes sense. This also limits the risk in case someone bag swipes you. I carry the linked DSLR bag with 1 EDH decks, and either my Modern or Standard deck along with associated supplies (sleeves, dice, mat). That's still ~$1200 but it's less than others I know who carry all their decks at once. Before I head out, I pull decks that I might want to play that night, narrow it down and then pack my bag. For FNM, I'll only carry a single deck. For a casual day, I'll carry 3-4 depending on the formats we might play (2 Pauper, 1-2 EDH, Modern Jank).

We have a private Discord for the people who are regulars at the LGS and I'll figure out if anyone wants to borrow a deck and I might bring one or two to loan out. Figure out what formats you're going to play before heading out and load up. Leave everything else at home.

u/Tropicalkings · 4 pointsr/EDH

As stated in other comments a cheap DSLR backpack will work well.

Another option is a part organizer:

This one can hold up to 12 double sleeved EDH decks.

Always be on the lookout, some of the best deckboxes out there are not made for cards but happen to work better than branded crap. I like to use the boxes my cellphone came in to hold whatever deck I take to FNM.

u/Moaks · 4 pointsr/photography
This is the bag I just got, it is great at storing my Canon 6D along with a lens and several filter pouches, I am not 100% sure, but I think it will have enough room for a second standard lens. Also the back is SUPER padded, feels like I'm carrying a cloud.

u/Figgle_bottom · 4 pointsr/Cameras

Well using B & H as a pricing reference, here is a filmmaking 'kit' I have compiled :

u/chrisage · 4 pointsr/cinematography
u/arachnophilia · 3 pointsr/photography

the modern nikon 50mm f/1.8g and 35mm f/1.8g DX are about the same price.

the addition of the focus motor seems to have doubled the price.

u/code_and_coffee · 3 pointsr/photography

Didn't see the filming part sorry! I'd go for a lens with whatever focal length you want that is ideally wider than f/2.8. Check this one out the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8. Wider aperture means more light and you'll get the bokeh affect when shooting. It's also relatively affordable at $220.

There's also the 35mm f/1.8 for a bit wider angle. similarly priced.

u/themadthinker · 3 pointsr/IAmA

A quick note on that lens: Nikon just put out a 35mm f/1.8 for $200 bucks, which has the nice addition of a built in AF motor. Great if you have a lower end Nikon SLR (D40, D60, D3000)

u/VIJoe · 3 pointsr/photography

Quasi-newbie myself with a similar rig (d5100):

  • One of the problems you will have the stock (kit) lens is the amount of light that you are going to be able to get indoors. I think the 35 mm 1.8 is a very fun lens for some inside experimentation.

  • My favorite books are Bryan Peterson's Understanding Exposure; Michael Freeman's The Photographer's Eye; and his The Photographer's Mind. I think the latter two are great introductions to the ideas around composition.
u/SnowHawkMike · 3 pointsr/photography

Thank you, I am glad that it's useful. I am the first to admit to people, although I learned and grew up using Nikon, my experience with their glass is limited since I no longer use their system. That's my longwinded way of saying take what I say with a grain of salt.

Having said that I find the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G to be one beautiful piece of glass. As good as the famed nifty fifty that Canon users love. Yes, you will get some light fall off with this lens, but stopped down that disappears. However who really cares, since you are most likely using it to focus in the center and not around the edges. And on a crop sensor I am guessing you are mostly using this for portraits, or similar centre focused shots.

The 35mm is just as good, if not better, seeing as how it's $50 less (MSRP), and on a crop sensor like in the D7000 it works beautifully as an all purpose lens. If you have the [cash for it]) I would say keep both in your bag, and use the 35mm for those times when you need a lens to do anything on the fly, and 50mm for more specific situations.

Another contender worth tossing into the mix, and this is what I use, is the Leica Summicron-R 50mm. It's the most used lens in my kit, and whether I am shooting film or digital I never leave the house without it. If you decide to pick one up look for the newer 3 cam version, and if you want to save some money do not buy the ROM version. Simply buy the cheapest good condition non-rom version you can, and send it to Leica to be upgraded to ROM for $325 if you really need that extra data.

If it's helpful here are links to the flickr groups for the three lenses I just talked about:

Nikkor 35mm f/1.8g

Nikkor 50mm f/1.8g

Leica Summicron-R 50mm f/2

u/DVDJunky · 3 pointsr/dvdcollection

Yeah, I've already got the lens I want... just need to save up for it.

u/_connor_ · 3 pointsr/photography

haha yeah, its kinda weird that they're making stuff now. this is mine . its not super styled but its cheap and holds everything. definitely! i only had my t4i when i bought it a few months ago then my film addiction got the best of me.

u/N1XY · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I've got one of these two, but a slightly different version. I can fit a 250, 180, taranis and bats+goggles. Can post a loaded up image.

u/KFCConspiracy · 3 pointsr/photography

Amazon Basics Backpack

It's pretty big, it fits my 60D, a 70-200 f/2.8, 11-16 2.8, 50 1.8, 30 1.4, 90 2.8, and a 17-50 2.8 plus a couple flashes... So my whole kit all in one bag (I rarely travel with my whole kit if ever). It's dirt cheap. It's protective. It looks really unobtrusive. And it's comfortable to carry for miles at a time.

u/alucardcanidae · 3 pointsr/Bowling

How about a photography backpack? They often come with velcro dividers so you can build the inside how you need it.

I have this one for my DSLR, but I‘m sure it would work for bowling stuff.

u/HappyKlutz · 3 pointsr/GiftIdeas

What about a nice backpack with camera inserts to keep his gear safe and maybe a iron on logo for one of his favourite games?

I did a simple black backpack with the fallout 4 logo on it for my then 24 yr old partner and he loved it. It wasn’t too in your face, if you weren’t a gamer you would never have realised it wasn’t just some random print.

Maybe something like this?

u/bn1979 · 3 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

I’ve got a couple of these that I have been beating the hell out of for 2-3 seasons. They have held up amazingly well.

u/rex3001 · 3 pointsr/djimavic

Reminds me of this bag I bought for my DSLR a few years ago, never even thought to try it for the mavic.

u/thekiyote · 3 pointsr/Throwers

I know that it sucks posting this expecting yoyoing critiques and getting videography criticism, but it's really hard to see the string. I really recommend these lights for filming:

u/BradManThompson · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

I have one of these:

and it works wonders. Built-in dimmer, comes with colored plastic plates to change the color temp. I imagine with just a few of these places properly, a "moonlight" look could be achieved fairly easily. With spare batteries for each, you could easily get 4 of these in your budget.

u/BLSmith2112 · 3 pointsr/teslainvestorsclub

As a TSLA long, I'd prefer they deleverage to $0 debt and outlive every other automaker that dies in the next recession. I'll wait. Dude needs a light.

u/orangesolo · 3 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

Well not tying, but generally a tripod will have a hook on the bottom that you can attach a weight too aka your backpack. Check out the hook on the bottom. At least that's what I do.

Now for tripod recommendations, what is your budget? If you don't want to spend a lot, want the tripod to take on this vacation & last a few months, then i'd just recommend the amazon basics tripod in the link above.

If price is not an issue to you (it might be considering wowair and not wanting to pay for checked baggage lol) you can get this. Same extended height as amazon's, but it is more compact when closed. Amazon closes at 25", manfrotto closes at 17".

u/FridgeworksYT · 3 pointsr/NewTubers

You'll want an iphone tripod mount, any will do but this one looks good -

Amazon basics do a cheap and cheery tripod with a spirit level -

As for lighting, look for something along the lines of this -

No idea if you're in the UK, but any version of amazon should have similar products.

u/cptdungle · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

Well, If filmmaking and video is your goal with these cameras I wouldn't recommend either.

If you're just starting and serious about video production here's a pretty effective starter kit that's just a tad over your $400 budget.

[Camera: Canon Vixia HF R400] (
This is a decent starter camera. It's got a decent range of focal lengths, optical stabilization, microphone input, progressive frame-rates and most of all designed with video in mind. You'll need a SD Card

I noticed the cameras you picked resembles DSLRs but keep in mind that these in particular are not and with fixed lenses which defeats the purpose of having DSLR for video. Trust me, learn how to be effective with a camcorder first! Then, when your skill requires more artistic control you can upgrade.

[Microphone:] (
Having clean audio is probably the most important part filmmaking! The key is to get the mic as close to your subject as possible and away from your camera. You'll need a cable. If you need to mount it to your camera use this [bracket.] ( This bracket will also help keep the camera stabilized when you go handheld.

Keep in mind this won't deliver perfect audio but it will be a MASSIVE improvement to the on board microphone and learning how to record with decent audio in mind is your first step into becoming a pro.

[Lighting:] (
Lighting is EXTREMELY important. A couple of these can lights will not only help with your image quality but put in you in the right direction for learning how to properly light your scene. You could start with daylight equivalent CFL bulbs.

[Tripod:] (
You NEED a tripod. This one is cheap and cheerful. Looping the ends of a couple rubber brands around the pan handle and the other end around your finger will help deliver some smoother pans!

Total: $425/£258

Some things to keep in mind:

  • These are far from pro tools but if all used in conjuncture you can deliver a much more effective production than just merely using a camera on a tripod.

  • Build a crew of friends. Although you can "one man band" it I don't recommend it because one of coolest things about film is that it's almost always a group effort towards an artistic goal!

  • Most importantly, the equipment are just tools. They don't tell the story; you do! Your film/video is only as powerful as the story you want to tell!

    Best of luck to you!

    edit: formatting
u/MrMakeveli · 3 pointsr/CampingandHiking

I like that these gifts are quality items and "general purpose", and by that I just mean that they are accessible to most people. Let's face it: those who want niche high end gear will be purchasing that themselves because they'll know exactly what they are looking for. This is the sort of stuff that almost anyone would be pleased with.

Here are a few random things off the top of my head I might add:
Mora Knife - $15.
Casio Pathfinder watch - $40
Light Tripod and phone mount $22 + $15 (added these because a lot of people use their phones as cameras out there
[Constellation Playing cards]( Night Sky Playing Cards - $6
Anker 10,000 mah battery pack - $26
Chill-Its Cooling Towel - $8
Nite Ize S-Biner - $4

u/SpaceImg · 3 pointsr/telescopes

Forgive me if this sounds dumb, I'm the last person to know anything about binoculars and tripods lol. The adapter will be the same thread size as the official Nikon one, correct? Also, that tripod looks perfect. Besides the height and the included monopod, could I also get away with this? Either way I'm find, I just don't think I need the added monopod. Thanks again for all your help!

u/FoodandFrenchies · 3 pointsr/Chefit

I bought a canon rebel on Amazon. Works great. I think I spent around $200. I wanted a little more than the kit lens (though it's fine) so I bought these:
They basically turn your kit lens into a macro lens. I will say though that you have to use manual focus when you use these. Can't beat the price though.

I have this tripod:

And this light:

I use a reflector too but that light comes with a decent one.

This site has a lot of great tips, I particularly like this article and it uses the light above:

Here's a photo I took with my setup tonight --

Good luck! It's fun to learn all this stuff. (Disclaimer: I'm not a chef, I just like taking nice food photos).

u/Paddy32 · 3 pointsr/france

J'avais celui la pendant 2 ans :

Il a un excellent rapport qualité prix, et rempli largement la mission. C'est mon trépied de secours.

Maintenant j'en ai un qui est plus resistant et beaucoup plus compacte ( J'en avais besoin d'une part pour avoir un trepied solide et stable où je peux poser un appareil à 3k€, d'autre part pour sa légèreté et son encombrement relativement faible. C'est pratique pour voyager, surtout quand on a un boitier pro avec des objectifs lourd, le poids est vraiment non négligeable. J'ai fait une randonnée avec tout mon matos dans la montagne, j'en ai chié mais ça valait le coup.

u/cmrs2k · 3 pointsr/daddit

I have a few of these we use in our house and have had good luck with...

u/Alpha-Leader · 3 pointsr/LosAngeles

I was at one point, but then I got a cheap Foscam for around $50 bucks on sale, and aimed it at the only door to my apt. It has all the firmware built into it to support recording and email notification.

Nightvision/2 way audio/etc. Resolution sucks, but even if I had a high HD camera I doubt I would be able to actually solve anything with catching someone, so the notification and generally being able to see who someone is works out best for me.

it is an IP camera too so I can just log in from my phone and remote around the room and see what is going on.

u/mr1337 · 3 pointsr/homedefense

Easiest setup will probably be a Dropcam

They're a little bit pricier than regular cameras, and you're paying for the convenience of simple setup.

Otherwise, most IP cameras come with software that will record the footage to your computer, like this Foscam or this D-Link

With the wireless ones, you can just plug it into an outlet without having to worry about the network cable stuff, which helps with flexibility of placement.

u/dapeche · 3 pointsr/Parenting

I am not sure if you are looking for JUST a baby monitor with a stand-alone system, but we use the Foscam 8910w wifi cameras in both rooms. They are IR cameras and can be controlled with different camera apps. We use the app called tinyCam on our tablets and phones and it allows you to view all your cameras, turn on/off audio, 2 way speaker, and pan/tilt control. You can use a browser to view them too. We also have recording set up. Foscam makes high-def cameras too but these are just fine for us.

u/Feltz- · 3 pointsr/gadgets

Foscam. Has pan/tilt, infrared, and the quality is good, not license plate reading from 20 yards good but it suits most peoples needs. There are some youtube videos of it if you want to see it in action.

u/rushesh · 3 pointsr/dogs

Foscam makes a great wireless IP cam with free viewing app, for about 75$ on amazon. i LOVE it. use it all the time, with two way audio also

u/uskre · 3 pointsr/Android

Yes. I use this IP camera:

Once I get the notification, I can see who it is. And if it is something I care to answer, I can use the Android client of the IP camera to talk through the phone. The person at the door listen to me. And the camera also has a mic, so I can listen to them.

The guide I used was this one:

u/PaperCutz · 3 pointsr/daddit

We have the Foscam 8910 which we love. I'm thinking about getting a few more for around the house. They go on sale from time to time as well. I think I paid $59 for mine. We use "tinycam" on our android phones and "baby monitor" on the iPad.

u/tgiles · 3 pointsr/qnap

Some cameras (like the Foscam FI8910W) can upload to FTP on motion alert. You can enable FTP on the qnap and setup an account. I've done it.

I'm pretty confident that none of the off-the-shelf doorbells allow for it. There's no incentive. Monthly service charges are too lucrative.

u/lassoguy · 3 pointsr/homedefense

I've got 4 of these watching just under 4,000 sq ft.

They work great. Wireless, built in Web server, motion detection, ability to send you photos to your phone when triggered, and they're cheap at less than $80/ea.

I run Evocam on a Mac mini I picked up off Craigslist for $200 and it records video from all 4 cameras in 1 hour increments. I can keep over a year's worth of video on the mini without having to delete anything on a 60 GB Drive. Evocam can also be setup to save videos to FTP, Send email/sms on motion detection, save to your drop box.

For $80 I had an electrician install two AC outlets in the eves of the house, and one about 9 feet up the wall so I could mount the cameras up high.

Less than $630 for a nice DIY system that's been running for 5 years now.

u/DemmyDemon · 3 pointsr/Vive

I have a couple of these and these.
Takes less floor space than a tripod, let's me mount the lighthouses way higher, and is way more stable. Of course, it requires your ceiling is low enough that you can brace them between floor and ceiling, but not a lot of people have a ceiling higher than 290cm (9'6"?) in their playspace.

u/wiredtobeweird · 3 pointsr/Vive
u/cpdylemma · 3 pointsr/Vive

Currently have my Vive setup in my apartment living room, which is adjacent to my bedroom with my PC. In the living room is my TV, two couches, and my Vive lighthouses.

On the two opposite corners I have these extendable spring loaded poles I purchased from Amazon.

I adjusted the tension so its a tight fit from floor to th ceiling.

On the top of those poles are my lighthouses pointing towards the middle of the living room. The lighthouses are mounted onto the pole using these attachable clamps.

They've been there stable since May of this year.

u/apfelisina · 3 pointsr/Vive

Can't say this is the best of the best, but I use these:

in combination with these (sadly no longer available):

Works like a charm for me.

u/Reasonabledwarf · 3 pointsr/Vive

It was their recommendation for the Vive DK, and it's in the manual that's available online, at the very end. There's a little clip that they use to attach the base station to it.

There's definitely similar things available for lower prices, and you don't' need a 3/4 pack, just one or two of the things. I just pointed it out as it was their specific recommendation.

u/Scholander · 3 pointsr/Vive

Unless your ceilings are absurdly tall, look into an extendable shower curtain rod and a mount that you can clamp onto it. These screwed right into the hole on the back of the lighthouse. Works great, and I have been able to easily move to different rooms or apartments as needed.

u/Wombodia · 3 pointsr/a6000

I haven't personally ever bought a camera used but I know there are a lot of good places to get a solid deal on an a6000 as it has been out for a while and one of the more popular mirrorless cameras. Sounds like you have a good eye on eBay.

I would check out /r/photomarket as you can get an a6000 for $300-400 depending on amount of shutter count, overall condition, and if it comes with the kit lens. You also might search your local Craigslist and Facebook marketplace for an a6000, might not have any luck but it is worth a shot. You also might check Adorama or B&H as they occasionally have them as well. Your best bet would probably be /r/photomarket thought.

If you want new Amazon usually has it on sale every few months around $400 for the body only. You can check the camelcamelcamel here. If you want the kit lens with it they usually go for $500, again you can check here regarding the historic prices on Amazon. Usually if it goes on sale through Amazon it will be on sale on other sites like Adorama, B&H, etc. If you can hold off I would personally go for a new one via Amazon the next time it goes down to $400.

u/bigboiahoy · 3 pointsr/DSLR

I have the Canon 80d and like it. It’s a good well rounder and my only complaint is the low light performance (however the lens could have something to do with this). However I will mention this is $1000. An option I see often (never have used myself) and is cheaper ($500-$900) is the Sony A6000 or the Sony A6300 (or a newer model). These are mirrorless and when you look at the viewfinder and make changes, that is what the image will look like. The A6300 might be more future proof with its 4K video if video is of interest. These would be good photo options from what I can tell (but again take that with a grain of salt since I’ve only used the 80d). If you are interested in more video vs photography another cheaper option would be the Panasonic G7 and is 4K. I cannot speak for Nikon, but they seem like good budget cameras, but may be lacking video wise. But overall the glass will make more of a difference than the camera! Any of these options would be a step up from your smartphone!

Camera links (Amazon)
Sony Alpha a6000

Sony Alpha a6300

Panasonic G7

Canon 77D (80D alternative)

Canon 80D

u/dhiltonp · 3 pointsr/photography

m43 shooter here.

Fuji makes great stills cameras. They have notoriously bad video. It's ok for personal use, but not usable in a professional context. Here is a short sample.

Even old fuji models get feature upgrades via firmware updates - the X-E2 is nearly identical to the X-E2S due to a firmware update. Fuji glass is all good. "Fuji’s 18-55mm is regularly viewed as the non-kit lens kit lens. People rave about it’s sharpness, the quality of its bokeh."

Sony makes computers that can take pictures and video. They probably take the best pictures for a given intro price, but I personally dislike their usability. I prefer physical controls to ones on a screen.


I know you didn't ask, but if you want the most compact option, m43 is the way to go. Yes, the sensor is smaller, but that means the lenses require less glass.

Olympus makes stills-oriented cameras that have ok video. Their newest camera is a rangefinder style as well, but it's $1200 without a lens.

Panasonic and Sony are competitors for the best video. The GX85 might be of interest. It is the first camera with in-body stabilized 4k video, which you might like.


u/sunjay140 · 3 pointsr/Android

> Honestly, man, how could you be okay with the camera being so shit in your beloved phone?

Because it's not shit and perfectly usable for 99% of smartphone use. This is from a Sony Xperia Z3+. If I want a better camera, I'll just buy a Sony Alpha A6000. I've never understood the smartphone camera craze. Who cares about how good a smartphone's camera is when most people will use it for Snapchat, Instagram and Facebook which ruins your photos anyway. The pictures from a Samsung may look worse than an Xperia after being uploaded to these websites/apps. Get a mirrorless camera is you care so much about image quality.

>Samsung, LG, and pretty much all OEMs are bad at rolling updates, and yes, Sony is good. But the update is not gonna magically let you take a good picture, change a just okay-ish display to a stunning AMOLED display, let the US users access the fingerprint reader.

I like Sony displays. Amoled also gets burn-in. I don't see any difference between an AMOLED and my Xperias. In fact, Samsung phones show the ugly sub-pixel matrix at low resolutions which is non-existent on midrange Xperia phones. I also don't care about the fingerprint scanner. I'm not American and the firmware takes one minute to change.

u/zomlies1 · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

Sony Alpha a6000 Mirrorless Digitial Camera 24.3MP SLR Camera with 3.0-Inch LCD (Black) w/16-50mm Power Zoom Lens

u/some_random_kaluna · 3 pointsr/Journalism

My college newspaper provided cameras. My --high school-- newspaper provided cameras.

$90 Sony W800 point and shoot.

$450 Sony A6000 digital SLR.

Either of these are a suitable backup in the event your cell phone gets confiscated or damaged.

u/Mr_Romo · 3 pointsr/Cameras

The Sony A6000 Hands down the best in that price range. You are going to want decent audio though so I would recommend also getting something like The Rode Video Micro.

youtube vlogging setups is also a great place to get some really good info!

u/MrMeursault · 3 pointsr/photography

I've been lusting over the A7s, it is the low light king. Not at all in your budget though. The D3200 probably isn't the best as it has troubles focusing in low light. The kit lens is a definite no no as it doesn't do well in low light. If you go DSLR go at least d5200 for $500 paired with the 35mm f/1.8 lens for $200. A refurbished d5300 can be found for $600 and would also be a great choice paired with that 35mm.

The Sony a6000 ($450 for body $600 for kit) is making a lot of noise in the mirrorless format at that pricepoint and can be paired with the 35mm f/1.8 at $400 for a total of $850, just above your budget.

u/Brettg4215 · 3 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

I have this one and it is pretty neat.

This one is a little better though and still cheap.

u/TheNomadicHermit · 3 pointsr/Autoflowers

Spend $13 to get some proper magnification. Without a clear image of the trichomes, all the bud shots in the world are worthless for predicting harvest window.

u/Tokyomaneater69 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

I got this and it didn’t break the bank. Also, it’s super fun to look at other stuff.

u/blazefalcon · 3 pointsr/photography

Just got my first DSLR- a Canon 70d with the kit 18-135 3.5-5.6 lens- and I'm very interested in getting the Canon 50mm 1.8 STM lens. My only question is, there are listings for The lens itself for $125, then there's stuff like the lens with all kinds of accessories for $125 as well, even still from Canon. Reading the reviews, the accessories are far from the best, but is there really any reason at all not to get the kit?

u/Bossman1086 · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

I have a Rebel T3i. I got my lens kit with it and was soon looking for more lenses, too. For cheap next lenses, two that I would highly recommend are the Nifty Fifty or the EF-S 24mm f/2.8.

The nifty fifty is a great lens and one that many pros even recommend. It's a good focal length to have to portraits and such and will work on even full frame cameras if she gets one in the future. The 24mm lens only works on crop sensor cameras (like the T5 your girlfriend has). But it's still a great cheap addition to her kit. I just used mine recently for a photoshoot with a model and the shots came out great. The focal length is good for portraits on a crop sensor. With the 50mm, I sometimes have to back away further than I'd like to frame the shot right. But the 24mm in the same situation doesn't limit me.

The 50mm also has the advantage of having a f/1.8. This allows some great shallow depth of field in the images she can take (blurry backgrounds) if she so chooses. It makes the subject pop more. Both are lenses I'm very happy to have in my bag. I don't think you can go wrong with either.

u/Simplyrowbear · 3 pointsr/canon

I’d say look at a Rebel t7i or 80D, and invest in some glass. You can pick up a 80D refurbished, 50mm, 24mm stm, a used Tamron 70-200 2.8 VC for under $2000 and that will be a solid base!

Refurb 80D Kit $779.20

50mm $125

24mm $149.

Tamron 70-200 used $799

$1853 Enough for some accessories

u/bfordclark81 · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

My favorite low cost investment when I started shooting live footage for underground bands was the Canon 50mm 1.8 lens (link below). By setting my shutter speed between 30 - 50 aperture at f1.8, and hopefully keeping ISO below 800. I was able to get a much better image than I was getting with my kit lens. Also, a mounted LED light will do wonders for you, as well.

Lens link:

u/aishiteru-wa · 3 pointsr/canon

Macro photography is one of my favorite things!
This setup is around $100 (50mm lens is optional and not part of this total) and a great place to start.

The extension tubes, when used on an (optional) 50mm lens, allows you to be anywhere from 21cm away from the subject, to 4.2cm depending on how you stack them :)

The lightbox kit comes with various backdrops and lighting. You can also use paper as a background if need be.

I also extremely recommend a tripod, when you're that close to the subject the depth of field becomes shallow. You may also want to set a timer that way pressing the shutter doesn't cause shake.

You'll probably eventually want an actual macro lens, as well as a better tripod for outdoor excursions, but if you're just doing this and staying in one place this is just fine :)

u/Enduer · 3 pointsr/photography

So your shutterspeed is low in dark environments? That's totally normal. The image is dark and so the camera is trying to leave the shutter open to collect more light.

You need a faster lens. Look into the nifty fifty if you'd like to take low light pictures!

Also, research the exposure triangle. I imagine it'll help you understand what's going on. Then you can compromise with your settings in manual to get a good picture.

If you don't want to do that, go into shutter priority mode on the camera (Tv), and set it to like 1/60. Your shots should stop being blurry but they may have ISO noise or be underexposed.

u/Harriv · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

Click number is probably the number of photos taken with the camera. There's some mechanics inside camera which will eventually wear (except in mirrorless cameras).

> 50mm 1.8

This is only 90$ as new, very good quality lens for the price:

Most cameras use these day CMOS sensor (as well as phones). Only color issues I can think now is chromatic aberration, caused by the optics. It can be corrected by using better lens or in post processing. Anyway, even the cheapest DSLR camera has much bigger sensor than any phone, which means better image. Modern phones do magic in the processing and of course newer sensors are better than ancient.

Here's some information:

iPhone 6 sensor is 17.3 mm², smallest DLSR format ("micro four thids") is 225 mm² and the sensor in the example Rebel t2i is 332 mm².

u/literallyanonion · 3 pointsr/canon

From what you're planning on using it for I think the t6i is probably going to be your best option. Some people seem to just be anti-Rebel, but honestly they boast a lot of features as long as you don't need a top lcd or lots of external controls. I still have my old t3i that is honestly one of my favorite cameras, especially for video. It's not the most advanced and is missing a lot of features that higher up canon dslr's have, but it's still a great camera.

I would definitely recommend putting more into your lenses than your body, and if you're considering upgrading to a FF sometime in the next couple years, it might be worth it to look for EF lenses rather than EF-S, since EF lenses are compatible with both crop sensors and full frame sensor bodies.

A favorite lens of many photographers is the 24-70mm f/2.8 L II because it has a nice range of focal lengths and is part of the canon 'L' series. However, it's priced accordingly and if it's not in your price range, that's completely understandable.

A very inexpensive lens that will give you much better results than the kit lens is the 50mm f/1.8 STM EF, which, at $120, is quite the deal. It's also featured on Ken Rockwell's Best Canon Lenses. It is a prime, meaning you can't zoom in or out, but I find 50mm to be a nice general focal length, especially for portraits and street photography. You might also consider the 24mm f/2.8 STM EF-S($150) for slightly wider angle, which can be nice on a crop sensor body. It's not compatible with FF cameras, but at $150, it's probably worth getting just for your t6i, especially if you aren't sure if you'll go FF anytime soon.

Check out Ken Rockwell's guide and maybe compare it to other guides online, there's a lot of people that have posted their favorite lenses or what they find to be the "best" lenses

Good luck!

u/zclevenger · 3 pointsr/photography

Example of mine and this. I have this lighting kit because I bought it off of a friend for $50. I also have some diffusers and white boards as needed. My camera is a Canon t3i and lens is typically this. I just can't figure out how their light on the glass and can/bottle is so soft. Or maybe a lot of it is post processing?

u/greekplaya990 · 3 pointsr/Glocks

Im looking at getting the "new nifty fifty" 50mm from cannon to maybe have a better angle for me to work with than the stock Cannon T6s with the 18-135mm Lense. Would that help me get these close shots and angles and views? Im still learning so thanks for anyone's input

u/evan1123 · 3 pointsr/personalfinance

Ah, I misunderstood it as the amount you make from photography. Gotcha.

The big gotcha with the SL1 to 6D Mark II is that the 6D Mark II can only accept EF mount lenses. Your SL1 accepts EF and EF-S mount, and I am willing to bet that all of your lenses are of the EF-S mount variety. The easy way to tell is to check the alignment dot. EF mount has a red alignment dot and EF-S has a white dot. Purchasing the 6D would require you to purchase new EF lenses as well, since the 6D is sold as body only, and EF lenses generally come at a higher price. Right now, if you want an upgrade, I would focus on purchasing EF mount lenses and using them with your SL1. One to grab if you haven't already is the 50mm fixed lens. It's EF mount, so it'll work with the pro bodies when/if you upgrade you upgrade, and around $100, so it's a cheap addition to your collection that opens up many more creative choices due to its wide aperture.

u/rhinokitty · 3 pointsr/DSLR

Double check the fit, but I use one similar to this for a T2i and it's great.

u/k3v1n8t0r · 3 pointsr/AmateurPhotography

Thank you for the detailed feedback! I never thought I'd get this much help on this sub. I follow the rule of thirds pretty closely. I use a canon t3 currently. Just got into this hobby at the beginning of summer so I'm kinda just getting started. I don't have a laptop so I do everything on my phone. I use adobe photoshop express which I am still getting a grip on. I primarily use this lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens I also use a 75-300 mm lens.

Which leads me to an age old question I've had that I can't find the answer to. What am I losing going from the 50mm lens to the 75-300 mm lens?? You'd think the lens with more zoom would be more expensive but it's not. Can you help with that answer?

u/kabbage123 · 3 pointsr/videography

When I started, I had this lens for general shooting and this prime lens for when I did interviews/beauty/lowlight type of shots. That's a good combo to get you started.

u/NorCalCanna · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

My situation was kind of like yours -- I saw the damage, but I couldn't find any bugs, poop, or bite marks on leaves so I just thought it was a weird revegging plant (which it also was). I was in like week 5/6 of flower when I finally bought a scope and identified them.

They start out on lower branches and feed on trichomes all the way up. Makes sense that you may have them in veg and not realize until you flip to flower. I also noticed that they spread slowly, but did kill everything in their wake.

My best advice for you is to keep your room clean of all plant matter and keep a light on and temps high for at least 3 weeks. Do not reuse your soil or pots and practice greenhouse biosecurity protocols.

Forbid is literally the only pesticide that works on russets. It's also awful and illegal in many states.

Quarantine all incoming plants and spray everything preventatively.

Buy a microscope (I have this one) and check your plants meticulously. Russets like buds and the junction where leaf meets petiole.

EDIT: Have a pair of shoes/boots sitting outside of your room and only and always wear those boots in.

Tyvek suits and shower caps are great when you have bug probs.

u/isujustice05 · 3 pointsr/CRH

Plugable USB 2.0 Digital Microscope with Flexible Arm Observation Stand for Windows, Mac, Linux (2 MP, 250x Magnification) This is what I use, it is easy to store has magnification capability lights up and you can even tap the end of it to capture the image to your computer. Insane how well you can see.

u/FullFrontalNoodly · 3 pointsr/knifeclub

600 relief to a UF micro should be just fine. If you are curious, one of these scopes will show you exactly what is going on:

If you want a very small micro-bevel you might want to go up to a higher finish on the relief but a mirror is completely unnecessary. If you are chipping through the micro-bevel it is already too small, though.

u/Bad_Jubies · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

This USB microscope. Not bad for $35!

u/Arcticflux · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Here you go

I cannot take credit for it's discovery. A recent post on this sub, is where I saw it. A redditor posted what it was and so I bought it immediately. Awesome product for $30.

u/l33tredrocket · 3 pointsr/coins

The same one /u/sleepyminion has other folks hooked on. It's really great, especially for the price, but I can't get gold to show up in the correct color yet. As you can see in this picture, it looks more like a nickel.

Here's the link to the microscope

u/strandedonearth74055 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Have both. 1st one much more user friendly

Check this out at
USB Microscope, Teslong Portable Multi-Function Soldering Magnifier Camera with 10-200 Magnification IP67 Waterproof for Android, Mac and Windows PC

Check this out at
Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android Linux

u/tiredbabyeyes · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

I think it’s this one but I’m not 100%. There’s a few users in this sub that have posted some pretty amazing pictures using those and it isn’t expensive either

u/bucketss420 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

u/Donkeydonkeydonk · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

Which one is that? The one I have works quite well. It's a little bit hard to take pictures with because you have to be completely still, but you can definitely see the color of your trichomes, insect poop, etc.

u/Zorbane · 3 pointsr/Astronomy

I got these a few weeks ago and they've been great.

I was able to see jupiter's moons, and even caught a very faint glimpse of M31 (Andromeda). I was finally able to check out the moon during Halloween and the detail that I could make out exceeded my expectations. While it was pretty small even through the binoculars for the first time looking at the moon actually felt like looking at a piece of land, for the lack of a better term, rather than a white ball in the sky.

Note you'll need a tripod for this because it is quite heavy (3 pounds) and there is no way you will be able to hold it steady.

u/wallyfoggle · 3 pointsr/Astronomy

I bought the Celestron SkyMaster Giant 15x70 Binoculars with Tripod Adapter for a Christmas gift to myself and the family. Although I've only used them once before wrapping them, for every star I saw with the naked eye (which is less than a dozen on a good night with all the light pollution) I saw at least two dozen more looking through these. And that was holding them with my shaky hands. They fit on a standard camera tripod.

u/Trollygag · 3 pointsr/nova

> I feel like telescopes should be one of those things people can rent for a day, like a kayak.

Well, kayaks are pretty hard to break, while telescopes are pretty fragile. Kinda like renting an iPhone for a day.

If you want a cheap entrance to the hobby, look at getting a pair of Celestron Skymaster binoculars. You can pick up for under $60 and they are great for looking at many objects. You can easily identify the moons of Jupiter with them.

u/eNonsense · 3 pointsr/askscience

Here's the thing about optics for astronomy. The reason that we can't see stuff isn't because it's very far or small, but because it's very dim. To see the most interesting things in the sky, you don't really need to zoom, but just collect more light (effectively make your pupil larger). It's also comparatively much less expensive to make a larger light collector than it is to make something with a lot of zoom. Zoom is good for looking at the moon or Jupiter. Light buckets are better for everything else, like galaxies or nebulae.

So my advice to you is to look at 2 options. 1st is a "dobsonian telescope" which is basically a big tube with a concave mirror at the bottom to direct something like 12" of light into your 1/4" pupil. $3000 is more than you need, and many people actually just build them, because the mirror to eyepiece alignment is the important part and the rest is just for making it easy to aim, adjust and transport. The 2nd thing which I recommend you can do inexpensively right now is to buy some astronomy binoculars and a basic camera tri-pod to mount them on. With these you'll be able to find tons of stuff. Most of the stuff you'll look for with 12" dob scope, but just with less definition. These are the ones that I have and they're great!

u/disgustipated · 3 pointsr/telescopes

I paid less than $70 for the Celestron 15x70's. They're worth it for the price, but you'll need a tripod to get the best out of them.

For those who use them with the included tripod adapter, you can remove the flex and make it stiffer by filling the side gaps with epoxy.

u/camopdude · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

You may want to get a good pair of binoculars first. This will allow you to see if you like it, and you can use the binoculars for other purposes.

Read more here and here. Maybe try a pair like these.

u/cbalogh · 3 pointsr/santashelpers

I'm a huge space geek myself. Here are some of the things my gf has given me as presents that I've loved: Lego Space Shuttle (it's above your price range but they do have a smaller version); Metal Art Apollo Lunar Lander (they also make a Mars Rover version); Celestron Binoculars (great for checking out the moon, stars & planets - I would also suggest a tripod to go with it). Hope those help!

u/Aegean · 3 pointsr/Astronomy

The problem with binos is that you'll never be able to hold them steady enough to study things. You'll need a tripod and mount.

Nevertheless, enjoyable viewing can be had with a good set.

Here's what I'm working.

Celestron SkyMaster 15x70 $75

70-Inch Pistol Grip Tripod with Bag $55

Total Cost ~$140 shipped

This is slightly more costly than most decent starter scopes.

Celestron 127EQ PowerSeeker Telescope ~$133

If money is of little object, get a basic scope and the binoculars I stated earlier. You'll enjoy having both capabilities and it will help you hunt down objects. Also fun for people who come with you to have something to do while you work the scope.

I will say that binoculars get uncomfortable if you're not laying down, or sitting naturally and even then it can get tiresome on the eyes and neck. Nothing beats a telescope imho. You can learn the sky and develop good habits just the same.

u/Irost · 3 pointsr/Astronomy

I have a Celestron SkyMaster
which i like very much. With the one you linked, with such high magnification, you would require som sort of pod to keep it stable, or else you'll tremble too much to see anything.

u/throwaway29173196 · 3 pointsr/space

Celestron Sky Master 15x70 about $60. Very well reviewed for purpose of amateur astronomy

u/granitehoncho · 3 pointsr/Astronomy

Get a pair of good binoculars. You can do a lot of viewing with something cheap and easy as this. Make sure you have a tripod, so you can stabilize it, since it is a heavy binocular. You can use an L-bracket to mount it to a tripod.

Join a local astronomy club and attend a viewing night. In my local club, about 10-20 people show up and bring all of their gear. You can learn a lot about telescopes, mounts, optics, etc. by viewing the constellations through different types of scopes. Also, many clubs have a telescope lending library. I borrowed a 16" Dobsonian telescope and kept it for a month. I saw pretty much all of the Messier Objects with it and didn't have to spend $2000 for a telescope.

u/Scorp63 · 3 pointsr/spaceporn

I'm new to amateur astronomy myself, and just ordered these binoculars after hearing good reviews.

Are there any ways to get long-exposure shots, or, pictures in general from using these?

Sorry if that's a stupid question, I've been interested in space all my life but am just now trying the optics out.

u/Tomallama · 3 pointsr/Astronomy

Try these if you don't want to always use a mount.

u/ItsMeEntropy · 3 pointsr/photography

> Dolica tripod

I assume you're using this one? Have you considered simply buying a new Arca-Swiss compatible tripod head and replacing the one on the Dolica?

u/znark · 3 pointsr/photography

That is a micro tripod which is made for travel and portability. The main limitations are the low max weight (4.4 lbs) and low height (55.5 in extended, ). This means that it won't be very stable, you will have to get used to bending over, and it probably won't take a larger DSLR and long lens. On the other hand, it is light (2.4 lbs) and compact (18.9 in). I would only get it if you want a small tripod that you can fit in a suitcase.

You might look at the Dolica 62-inch Proline tripod on Amazon. It is popular and well reviewed. It looks like a proper tripod in that it doesn't have braces and pan head.

u/syl1350 · 3 pointsr/photography

I have the [Dolica 62 inch Proline] ( I'm a student so cost was my first concern. I got it for $40 but right now it's $50 on Amazon. It's lightweight which can make it feel not so sturdy but I haven't had any problems with it, and if you check out the Amazon reviews, they're mostly positive. Hope it helps. I don't recommend getting tripods for any cheaper than this, they're really easy to break/topple over.

u/bigcatchicago · 3 pointsr/photography

This. I bought this tripod as a first tripod and it served me well for 2yrs. I am glad I bought this inexpensive one because it showed me what I wanted in a tripod before investing the bigger bucks. Read the reviews.

u/aybrah · 3 pointsr/photography

Would still take this over that.

For light use either will do you fine. If you intend on putting it through more regular and heavy use. Its worth spending more to get something better built

u/bolanrox · 3 pointsr/Nikon

I personally use this one The Head slides a little even after tightening, so you almost have to over aim your angle, but you get used it after a bit.

Its plenty solid for messing around, not the smallest or lightest, to the smoothest to open, but its sturdy. Plus you can always get a better head down the road for it.

u/kdingo · 3 pointsr/photography

This is what i got when someone recommended it here in this sub:

It is an excellent tripod for the price. Looks like it'll be more than enough and heavy enough for your needs, and if you're worried about a tipping you can add a backpack or something to the hook and weigh it down more. Don't worry about compatibility with your camera. All cameras will fit all tripods.

u/doubleplusunsigned · 3 pointsr/Ultralight

That's interesting that you have to check poles... I've traveled with a camera tripod in my carryon (which is essentially 3 collapsible trekking poles) and nobody batted an eye.

If you remove the rubber feet from that tripod, it exposes metal spikes for outdoor use...

Hooray for sane and consistent government regulations!

u/PlaidAvenger · 3 pointsr/photography

Not sure if you've already made a decision yet, but I recently picked up a tripod that I'm very happy with.

Dolica AX620B100 62-Inch Proline Tripod and Ball Head

I also have a T4i and the Dolica is more than sturdy enough to handle the weight of a T4i. This one has a lot of features that you usually only get from a much more expensive tripod.

If you'd like to see a video review of this tripod, and some of its features in action, you may want to watch this video...

Dolica Proline Tripod Review

*edit to update Amazon link

u/AtticusDrake58 · 3 pointsr/DSLR

First, thank you so much for the clarification on the camera body, but are you referring to something like this?

u/Hynjia · 3 pointsr/photography

This is easily one of the best lenses you can get in my opinion. The 35mm prime is great for low light with that low f-stop like your buddy mentioned. It'll mean you have to move around and be active in composing shots since you don't have the zoom, but hey, you'll be at a concert.

For the record, I shot with only that lens on a d5000 for 5-6 months before I finally got a zoom lens. It's as versatile as you are.

u/ItsToka · 3 pointsr/photography

I went with the 35mm 1.8 lens as my first after the kit lens. $166 on amazon currently.

u/pierceham · 3 pointsr/EDC

In the box:

u/KallistiEngel · 3 pointsr/photography

I'm considering the Nikon 35mm f/1.8 myself since supposedly it's closer to being the equivalent of a 50mm focal length lens for a film SLR, any idea how it stacks up?

I've read some good reviews of it, but it's hard for me to comparison shop for lenses unless the reviewer is doing a side-by-side comparison.

u/bobbybottombracket · 3 pointsr/Nikon

Ask him for the serial number..

Bro, the lens is $200 bucks, get a new one. Don't pay $175 for this...

u/wearenottheborg · 3 pointsr/amazonreviews

This was a "question" about a Nikon lens

u/gh5046 · 3 pointsr/photography

Do you mean the 35mm f/1.8? I am not seeing a 30mm f/1.8 Nikon lens. It might exist, I'm just not familiar with Nikon lenses. Just curious.

If you want to retain the mood of the environment get a fast (large aperture) lens. If you don't care about the available lighting get a good speedlite that can overpower it and just use your current lens.

In these scenarios I have found I prefer a balance of available lighting and flash.

You can buy or make your own diffuser for an external flash. I made one couple years ago and have been very happy with the results.

u/newdingodog · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

If you can afford both the 35mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.8 I would buy them both. They both go down to 1.8 which means the aperture is open very with and will let a ton of light in. These are both prime lenses so they don't zoom but that is not as important as you probably think.

I am assuming here that you don't want to spend 1500+ on a fast professional zoom lens, that would also be okay.

The 35 mm is 200 and I just bought it myself:

The 50mm can be had for 131:

You can also just go with what you have, but you will probably need to crank the ISO up pretty high.

Suggested settings:

  1. Put the camera in aperture priority (A on the dial) and set it to the lowest number it will go. (1.8 on the suggested lenses, 3.5-5.6 on the kit lenses).

  2. Take pictures of the subject, look at the shutter speed the camera is choosing.

  3. Increase the ISO until the shutter speed is around 1/200 at minimum (if the subject is moving)

  4. Take some pictures with a higher ISO to get shutter speed at 1/400 just in case 1/200 was not fast enough. (1/200 should be plenty fast if they are not running and jumping all over)

    The reason for the suggested lenses is at 1.8, your ISO can be much lower than 3.5 and this will result in less noise. One last time: shoot raw if you can since it is a tricky situation. GOOD LUCK!
u/parzivalsanorak · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

I've heard good things about the D7200. Personally, I still use a D3300 and while it has its drawbacks, those mostly concern comfort functionalities (burst speed, autofocus points, button layout, fixed screen). With regard to image quality, any halfway recent camera from one of the well-known manufacturers will do.

With a budget of 800€, what will you be able to get? Where I live, the D7200 body alone costs that much new, so no lenses, no accessories. I think it might be worthwhile to think about buying a D3xxx or a D5xxx Nikon or to consider buying used. Do note that those two series don't have an autofocus motor, so you'll only be able to autofocus with lenses that bring one (AF-S and AF-P lenses, but not AF and AI).

For street photography, the 35/1.8 DX is a popular lens. I can't recommend a specific lens for landscapes since I rarely do them, but generally, you'll want a wide-angle lens and probably a tripod. However, I'd suggest getting the camera with a kit lens first. There are few cheaper ways to get a general all-purpose lens to experiment. Maybe the new camera opens up new possibilities and you suddenly find yourself drawn to portraits or macros. You can always upgrade once you feel you can't comfortably work around the limitations of your current gear.

u/cmtrinks · 3 pointsr/photography

After wanting a DSLR for several years, I recently decided to bite the bullet and finally buy one. I picked up the D7000, and a Tamron 28-75 f/2.8. While this lens is perfect for me so far and does everything that I want while I continue to learn, eventually I'll be looking to acquire more lenses. Heres where I'm confused on what would actually be the best lenses to purchase down the road. I'm not constantly shooting portraits, or fast paced sports games; I usually just shoot whatever I want, whenever.

I'm looking to grab either a 35mm, 50mm, or a wide angle. These are what I've found so far that have my interest: 35mm f/1.8G, 50mm f/1.8G. I'm not exactly sure which would be better since I have a 28-75. I've read a ton of articles of 35mm vs 50mm, and even wide angle but I'm still confused on which to buy. I would like to take city landscape, food, and possibly portraits with whatever lens I get. Any wide angle recommendations would be appreciated.

Secondly, I want to purchase a telephoto but I'm not sure which one would suit my lifestyle more. Right now I wouldn't mind spending $5-700 for this. I was looking at this model: 70-200mm f/2.8 I would eventually upgrade to a better telephoto, but for the time being I don't necessarily want to spend $1,000+. Any suggestions on what would be a better lens to buy instead of the one I linked, and what would be a good lens to upgrade to in a few years?

I've taken a few longer exposure night time shots that have turned out very nice, but I wasn't sure about how to do daytime bright light exposures until recently learning about neutral density filters. I've heard multiple pros and cons about adjustable ND filters, so I'm unsure if I should be buying an adjustable or regular filters.

u/Words_Of_Prey · 3 pointsr/travel

I like the ones with people in them because it's something I want to get better at. My issue with shooting people is that I'm not good with focusing, so I have to stage people instead of capturing the natural moment. The variable focus on my Nikon is a bit clumsy for my liking, so I find it easier to have a fixed center focus then reframe it so that the object in focus is framed better (like this one). However, this is doesn't work very well if people move because then they're out of focus.

A lot of the evening shots in this collection would be tough to do on an old D70, though getting a better lens helped quite a bit. I now use this one and I was able to get pictures like this one. However, for every one shot like that one, I have a few that are blurry because even the motion of me pressing the shutter blurs the photo. I have to be very careful when it's darker.

u/griploner · 3 pointsr/Nikon

I own a D5300 with a prime 35mm lens and can honestly say it's a great camera for the price.

A sample shot located in Wales...

u/GenericStatement · 3 pointsr/Nikon

Under $350, you really can't do much in the way of upgrading to a better telephoto lens, so I'd stick with the 70-300.

The 18-55 is good for landscapes. What you really need is a tripod for it. You can get a great one for about $150 these days, and the monopod part would help with sports, probably. But the real trick to landscape photography is actually not about the camera or the lens, since you're usually stopping down the lens to f/8 or f/11 and so even a mediocre lens will give you good images. The trick is that it takes a lot of discipline, mainly in getting up early or staying out late, because the few hours after sunrise and the few hours before sunset give you the best light, that is, the "golden hours". There are also the "blue hours" immediately before sunrise and after sunset. The second part of the discipline, besides the timing, is the repetition. You may have an awesome shot, but then it's cloudy, or the light isn't right, or whatever. Some of the great landscape photographers visit a spot dozens of times before they get "the shot". A lens, a camera, and a tripod, and lots of discipline.

The 35/1.8 AF-S DX is a good lens to start with and you can pick one up used for around $120. You can also get a 50/1.8 AF-S for about $150 used, or $220 new, which is a great portrait lens on your camera. These lenses let in much more light (about 8x as much as your 18-55 does at 35 and 50mm) and also allow you to create more blurred backgrounds. I like the 50 much better than the 35 for portraits; for me the 35 is too wide to be flattering unless you're doing an environmental portrait and including a good deal of the room/environment around the person (and if that's the case, just use your 18-55, since you'll want more depth of field (less background blur) to include the details of the environment.)

So yeah, if it were me, I'd get a good tripod/monopod like the link above for landscapes, and the 50/1.8 AF-S for portraits. That's about $300 right there if you get the lens used; there's tons of them on eBay or if eBay scares you, KEH has them in EX+ condition for $150 too. Buying lenses new is one of the biggest wastes of money you can do in photography (and it was a lesson I didn't really learn until I'd spent thousands!)

u/phineas1134 · 3 pointsr/batteries

I just did some testing on the duracell Optimums. They are not worth the money. Your best bet is to go rechargeable and get some Eneloops. If for some crazy reason you need to see what battery will last absolutely the longest on a single use, primary lithiums like Energizer Ultimate Lithium will easily outlast any alkaline batteries.

Edit: Added some links for you.

u/empossible · 3 pointsr/DIY

This (which you can regularly get for $9) + This (Amazon's out of stock at the moment). Then you've got the added bonus of extra rechargeable batteries. Should the motor in the brush ever go bad, big deal, $9-15 (mine's been strong for over 2 years now).

u/Icebreaker808 · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I actually use Disposable Alakalines currently , since they are so cheap at Costco. But I have been researching cause I know I am killing the planet with the amount of batteries I go through using WMR.

So Based on recommendations and the fact that Costco carries them as well, Eneloop's seem to the consistently the highest rated and best performing Rechargeable on the market. The Cells are made in Japan, but the Chargers are from China, but most people I know recommend them highly.

Also there will always be 1 star reviews of anything. Just like people complain about WMR. 99% of the people could have no issues, but always going to be 1% that ends up with faulty/defective equipment, or abuse them or use it in a manner not recommended. I would not worry about it.

u/Gravesplitter · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Anytime. Let me link the thing I’m ordering

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/Sokurah · 3 pointsr/wiiu

>From what I read the Wii U Pro Controller lasts forever and can be charged by by connecting to the Wii U. Is this correct?

They say the battery life is around 80 hours, and for all I know it is, but I've never needed to use any controller that long without charging it. It does last for a long time, though, and it can be charged by connecting it to the Wii U (mini USB - cable's in the box).

As for the rechargeable batteries, I bought my brother a few pairs of these a couple Christmases ago and he swears by them:

u/broken_radio · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Battery might be a dud or on the way out. 3 out of 4 packs I bought worked for me, one died after a few months; after that I switched over to these Eneloop batteries and never looked back, they work great with the Elite controller.

u/darinclark · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Invest in some good rechargeable AA batteries. My choice is Panasonic Eneloop.

u/XboxOneisanawesome1 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Panasonic Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger with eneloop AA 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (White, Pack of 4)

u/Rycan420 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Correct about he batteries, but don’t buy a cheap charger. You’ll spend an extra $4 for the best on Amazon...

Amazon Link

If you check the reviews on Amazon there is a guy that give extensive reviews on batteries and chargers. He’s really impressed by this one and this price.

I can confirm it’s been great. Charges all brands, and doesn’t require charging 2 at a time like the cheaper chargers.

u/Narutosuns2fan · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Actually a new set of eneloops with the charger is half the price of this, although I totally get wanting to keep your controllers away from your kids.

u/thaddeusblunt · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I just got these

So far they have been great. You will always have a fully charged battery back up ready to go and you can use these for other things besides xbox controllers. I was in your same situation and the pros of the eneloops outweigh the pros of the play and charge. My play and charge kit for the 360 broke pretty fast too. Eneloops are the way to go

u/hulksmash865 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

The X will handle the games AND movies! First I've heard of the S being better at movies. Get some rechargeable batteries like this: I had been using the official play and charge kit until getting these and they last much longer! All the Xbox One controllers should work with the X. Not sure about 3rd party controllers, but the Microsoft brand will. If you can, purchase an extended warranty. But definitely the X is a great system and great timing since Red Dead Redemption 2 is coming out!

u/Darth_Firebolt · 3 pointsr/flashlight

Zebralight H52w. Goes from .01 lumens all the way up to 300 for $64. Spend an extra $17 and get some Panasonic Eneloop (or eneloop pro) batteries and an advanced charger. A tad over budget but you'll have a powerful, long lasting, neutral tint light that can run on any AA size battery, and it can easily be used as a headlamp with the included band, and it has a removable, multi-position pocket clip.

u/reapersman · 3 pointsr/Vive
u/TheGingaBread · 3 pointsr/Vive

I got this and haven't had any issues at all.
Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography

u/kweazy · 3 pointsr/oculus

These are the stands and these are the swivels on top.

u/Tural- · 3 pointsr/Vive

I have these:

9' light stands

An attachment that allows you to tilt the lighthouses to their required angle. There are cheaper versions of these, but this is the one I bought.

u/PosiedonsTrident · 3 pointsr/photography

Speedlite holders:

I own a couple of these and they are fantastic!


No need to go with the expensive Rogue set. I love these by Selens.

Lighting gear bag:

This has been put through a bit of use and has held up great so far.

Lighting stands


u/phantamines · 3 pointsr/fo4vr

I had a friend who would set up his Vive every time he played and would put the lighthouses on a table. Didn't seem to have issues.

I have mine on telescoping light stands that can be broken down easily. They work perfect. I will say that on a 970, FO4 can be a bit rough. I personally won't play it, but many people here swear that it's fine for them.

u/big_bean84 · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

You don't have to cut up your plants dude. I'm talking about one of these. They're awsome.
Carson MicroBrite Plus 60x-120x LED Lighted Pocket Microscope

u/jimbo_slice_47 · 3 pointsr/canadagrows

link it’s 15$ for one (when i bought it, they had a 2 for 20$ deal) but still well worth it. The perfect tool for telling exactly when your harvest is ready.

u/Lawnmover_Man · 3 pointsr/HerbGrow

It works reasonable well, but it isn't completely free of issues. The focus wheel is kinda janky, the focus depth could be better, but it gets the job done. When you move the material to the left, it will move in the viewer to the right. Kinda weird, but one gets used to it.

Bottom line: There are better ones, but this thing gets the job done.

(German Link)

u/Carl_Vincent_May_III · 3 pointsr/occult

Crystals aren't magical because of hocus-pocus ghost magic, but because they are a macroscopic manifestation of the microscopic interactions between chaos, order, and growth. The magic they give is fuel for creativity/curiosity (same thing,) the most powerful force in the universe. Many natural objects provide such enrichment, pretty much all, but crystals have a unique ability by virtue of being physically manifested fractals.

Rule #1 of magic: the physically mundane is the most profound, the metaphysical is the most mundane. Ghost shit is normiesville.

For the low price of $12.99 with free shipping you can purchase a Carson Microbrite Plus pocket microscope and reap all the rewards of observing the microscopic for the price of a fast food meal. But that's not all, observing the cosmos directly with a telescope, binoculars, or even the naked eye will give you incredible boons as well. Explore and observe your world on all levels and you will find limitless beauty and inspiration. Naturalism, it isn't just for nerds anymore.

Dove from Carson is so sexy. *_*

u/keiller84 · 3 pointsr/gopro

My work already had the LED light, but I think it's the same if not very similar to this one:

The light has it's own battery so needs to be charged every so often. The external mic is powered from the GoPro.

u/batman2k4k6k8k · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Thanks! It's this one (ac adapter is separate). Benefit is that it's on a dimmer. And I can move it a little and use it for webcam lighting.

u/caesareansalad · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Dream big? Well then.... a 50mm lens for portrait photography. I love photography and want to start a "real" business at some point, rather than just do a few photoshoots a year like I am now.

And also, a battery charger because I go through batteries like crazy. C'mon...gimme. :P

u/Mostly42Harmless · 3 pointsr/photography

I have a D3000 and recently found that only one 50mm f/1.8 lens worked with the camera link. By this I mean other lenses had to be manually focussed rather than focussed by the camera automatically. Just something to consider.
Edit: wait there the link is wrong; trying to find the correct one.
Edit 2: OK that's the one. Not sure if there is a 35mm suitable one though. I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will tell you.

u/COFFEE_IS_4_CLOSERS · 3 pointsr/photography

There is a way to to do center focusing, though I don't have the exact steps to do so off the top of my head. I did it for my 3a when I got it and haven't returned to that part of the camera's menu. Just letting you know that there is a way though.

To add to Fafoah's comment, looking for lenses with aperture rings is something you definitely have to keep in mind with Nikon lenses; older lenses will have them while newer ones got rid of the ring completely. Something to look out for (again, with Nikon lenses), is that anything G will NOT have the aperture ring. On the other hand, lenses denoted as D will have rings.

For example, here's the Nikon 50mm f1.8G versus the Nikon 50mm f1.8D

The obvious advantage to this is cost; D's tend to be the older models and cheaper (though there are definitely a few exceptions). Disadvantage is image quality or lens durability. Personally, I have the Nikon 50mm 1.8D, and I really like it especially because it didn't cost me an arm+leg.

Either way though, using any non-e-mount Sony lenses on the NEX will force you to manually focus which is fun especially with the NEX's peaking mode (when manually focusing, it highlights the in-focus bits) but 1) will take a while to be quick about it and 2) VERY difficult to do in the dark, especially when you become dependent on the peaking mode.

I should also add that because you can't auto-focus with other-brand lenses, this actually opens you up to much older lenses which also tend to be cheaper because they lack things like auto-focus or image stability. Because of this, I was able to pick up an old Nikon 105mm f2.5 AI-s lens for cheap. All said and done, I have 3 lenses and did not spend more than the cost of the camera.

u/adamp319 · 3 pointsr/photography

Hey /r/photography,

I'd like to buy an entry level camera, and I think I've settled on just buying a like new / refurb'd D3300 and then getting a NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G ... Is there any reason I shouldn't do this?

u/inverse_squared · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

Phones are still a good starting place unless you need the advantages of a stand-alone camera. Do you need anything that your phone photos are currently lacking?

What's your budget?

I would look into something like the Nikon D3400 with the kit zoom lens and maybe an optional 50mm f/1.8 lens for product shots.

u/anish714 · 3 pointsr/Nikon

I was in a similar position about 3 years ago. But then it was either the D3100 or the D5100. I chose the D5100. I chose it due to the higher ISO capability. I loved my decision. It was a much better camera than the 3100. I tried my buddy's 3100 and my 5100 side by side and mine outperformed 3100 significantly. The location was a dinner party at a restaurant. I was able to easily pull of images in low light he was not able to get. Also, the additional features helped me learn photography better. To me the 3100 seems like an advanced point and shoot camera with SLR capability. The 5100 gave me very good pictures, kept me interested, and kept me growing in photography for the last 3 years where the 3100 would have bored and disappointed me with photography in couple of months. Honestly, today, I am disappointed I just didn't go for a D7000. If I would have gotten the D7000, I believe I would have been satisfied for another year or two before upgrading. But it was my first DSLR and I wanted to learn how to shoot manual. I wanted to tip my toes in the water first before spending lots of $$$.

Yesterday, I just upgraded my 5100 to a D750. I was between the D7100, D610 and the D750. I figured why the heck not... I wanted something that can keep me satisfied for the next 5 years. Rather than constantly have my body go out of date then wanting to upgrade again.

To see what kind of pictures the D5100 can take, look here.
I am sure the D5300 will perform much better.

I highly recommend getting the Tamron 2.8 28-75 lens and skipping the kit lense. The Tamron 2.8 was my first lens purchase. All pictures you see above was taken with it. It will be the lense you may need for a while, unless you need a super zoom.
You can get it new for $500
or used < $400.

It is an FX lens and you can still use if if you decide to make the jump to FX later like I did. Even if you buy DX now, I suggest you still by FX lenses. I have only purchased 2 lenses over the last 3 years, but they have been very good lenses. They will serve me much longer than the bodies. If you do not want to spent that much on new lenses right now and want to get the kit lense (which I highly don't recommend), wait few months and get the 50mm prime lense. Its an excellent lense and you can use it on FX camera's as well. I am planning on this to be my next purchase after I get over the D750 sticker shock.

Edit: I also jumped from a Canon Powershot to Nikon DSLR. I have really enjoyed Nikon as they just felt better in my hands. Also D7000+ bodies has a built in motor so you can buy older lenses much cheaper.

Edit 2: Best Buy has a great deal going on now for a D7000 and a zoom lens for $800 bucks.

Edit 3: Scratch that. You may want to take a look at this...

u/alisonfd · 3 pointsr/photography

They do.

However if you have a entry level camera without a autofocus motor in the body, then an AF lens will not focus on that camera and you will need to pay for an AF-S one for autofocus.

So this one is AF, so it will not focus on the D40-90, D3000 series, D5000 Series.

Whereas this one being AF-S will focus on those bodies as it has a motor in the lens

u/beautyjunkbunny · 3 pointsr/photography

I have a canon t3i, budget is $400 and am upgrading my tech for beauty videos. I need new lights, focus remote control, new battery, sd card, 2 lenses. Zoom and wide.

I know this is a photo thread but hear me out and share input.

I never specified that I'm focusing on video. I guess I assumed it was self explanatory with the info I went on to ask about pertaining to video.


How much film time will this sd give me? Google says 2 hours, but maybe someone here knows better.

Are these lights worth it?

I currently have these

They heat up and take up too much space in my little square room and dont light enough or evenly even with my ring light in front of me.

What zoom and wide lens can I use, to zoom into face sitting 4+ feet away from tripod. I currently have the canon 50mm lens.

What wide lens can I buy? My kit lens is still too close to me even zoomed out.

Budget friendly lenses for my crop sensor.

What my videos look like now, I need to update, get a nice bokeh when zoomed into face, even lighting, and nice wide shot to use for intro and outro of videos.

Any other tips on saving money, improving my videos, etc, I'm open to learning. Thank you.

I would really like to have a nice blurry background like here for intros and outros

u/UserM16 · 3 pointsr/photography

If you don't have the means at the moment to invest in speedlites and remote triggers, I recommend continuous studio lights in umbrella or softbox form.

u/Slutty_Alice · 3 pointsr/SellerCircleStage

Ah, ok! I'm sure some other ladies will chime in, but I'd suggest something like this if you need an affordable option for something that can take decent photos and vids:

if you can do a little more:

Down the road you might want to upgrade to a camcorder or DSLR, but I think this is a good way to get started.
You also might consider an affordable light set if you don't have natural light:

u/AlishaWhite · 3 pointsr/SellerCircleStage

This is the one i have. It all collapses down to a thin bag which is easily hidden in a closet or under the bed and the bulbs are top notch

Photography Photo Portrait Studio 600W Day Light Umbrella Continuous Lighting Kit by LimoStudio, LMS103

u/TheBadGuyBelow · 3 pointsr/eBaySellerAdvice

Get yourself a box resizer and a good razor knife. Sometimes a half an ounce or less can make the difference between $5 shipping and $7+, and you will also save packaging material by not having to stuff half of a box with packing paper or bubble wrap.

Box Resizer tool On Amazon $16.99 - Free Shipping


I almost never pay more than $27 for 700ft of bubblewrap. I used to spend more than that on 250ft when I was buying it at Lowe's or Staples.

Bubblewrap on Amazon for $25.88 with free shipping

Keep an eye out for something like this at thrift stores, you can find them ALL THE TIME, usually for around $5 - $7, and they are GREAT for mounting your rolls of bubble wrap on to save space and make dispensing it easy.

Clothes rack with bar

For taking photos, I use something like this setup. I place the backdrop stand behind a dresser and drape the fabric backdrop over the top of it and tuck it into my top drawer for a seamless background that I can also lean items against since it's tucked in.

Backdrop + Stand Kit $36.90 on Amazon. Free Shipping

Photography Lighting Kit $52.10 On Amazon - Free Shipping

u/skippybosco · 3 pointsr/Jarrariums
u/HighFawks · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

I'd recommend getting a usb microscope over a jewlers loupe.
They run about $30 but are much easier to see with and take pictures.

Since i bought this one my jewlers loupe has been gathering dust:
Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android

Ps, if you check my profile the last pic i posted was taken with mine.

u/ProfessorPilz · 3 pointsr/microgrowery

This is basically what I picked up. Just a cheap Chinese-made digital microscope with decent reviews. It only came with software on a mini-disc thing and... well I don't have a cd-rom anyway (whatyearisit.jpg) but luckily it works mostly plug-and-play with the default 'camera' program on windows. It's hard to get a good placement with nothing moving, magnification set properly, etc. but I really wanted to be able to check my trichomes (and my hand lens really wasn't cutting it). Worth the $20 for sure!

u/Orangelightning77 · 3 pointsr/HerbGrow

When to harvest. So first off, get yourself something to take a really close look at the trichomes. I just ordered this usb microscope and its only $20, well worth it for all the other stuff you can zoom in on too, but now let's look at those trichomes. As they grow and start appearing they will be clear, they will then turn white over the weeks of flower and then turn amber and brown by the end of flower. Each of these colors has massive effects on the trichomes and how the high will feel. Clear/milky white will give a more alert, energetic, uppity high. While amber/brown give a more sedated, narcotic type of feel. If you want a more energetic high, harvest while they're milk white. For a more sedated high, harvest at amber. If you want a mix of both, keep an eye on them as they transition from milk white to amber and harvest when you're comfortable with them. It's not recommended to harvest with clear trichomes, or many of them at least, and by the time they get dark brown they will actually start to fall off and you DO NOT want that. Lastly, make sure you flush your plants for a week or 2 at the end of flower to get the nutrients out of those buds. And be sure to let them dry slow, this will yield the best results. I'd recommend to dry trim in order to keep the buds drying slower

u/CanIPleasePetYourDog · 3 pointsr/puppy101


I totally know where you’re coming from. we brought home our toy poodle 2 weeks ago (he’s 11 weeks today) and I am home with him during 9-5 hours while my boyfriend helps out evenings and weekends. The first week I genuinely considered returning him because I felt so overwhelmed despite doing an absurd amount of research and having had 2 other family dogs where I wasn’t the primary caretaker lol. The breeder had him potty trained and crate trained and said he was the first of his litter to run to the food bowl but the first week he came home with us he whined in his crate + playpen, pooped on the floor and became a finicky eater lol

I can say even though I’m still struggling with a few things (he’s a pretty shy pup who's not food motivated, hates his playpen, and doesn't understand kongs lol ) I’m feeling better and seeing sooo much progress in our little man since he first came home.

Here are some things that work for us:

Crate training: This will take time and will also require some patience and understanding on your end - there will likely be whining and the best thing you can do is IGNORE IT - this is of course as long as your puppies needs are met - before ever putting him into the crate make sure he’s peed and isn’t hungry/thirsty. The #1 thing you need to be aware of is that if you let him out while he’s whining he will associate whining = attention/freedom.

  • Crate games Personally, we didn’t use crate games because when I tried I felt the same frustration lol. We have a T-shirts that smell like us in his crate + his favourite (safe) toy that he can only cuddle/play with while he’s in there to make it attractive place. Our dog isn’t food motivated either but we’ve discovered dehydrated raw treats are like crack to him lol. We use a high value treat (dehydrated raw beef liver) to lure him into the crate while saying “bedtime” and then we close the door. He’ll whine during the day sometimes when he’s overtired but never at night and actually goes in willingly on his own to relax.
  • Nighttime: set alarms before he starts whining. In our case we sleep at 11pm and have alarms for 2am, 5am and 7:45am - you’ll need to monitor when he starts to whine and set your alarms for ~10-15 mins beforehand to avoid reinforcing whining. I also recommend sticking to night time crating rather than playpen to work off a dogs need for consistency.
  • Enforced naps: these are a god send. Pups need to sleep roughly 18-20 hours a day. For every 45-1 hour that your puppy is awake lure him into his crate for a 1-2 hour nap. I use a wyze camera ( to monitor any sounds/movements in his crate and make sure I get to him to let him out to pee before he has a chance to start whining on his own. (Currently typing this as he’s napping away lol). You will get some free time to do as you please + puppy will wake up refreshed and happy (note: less nipping, more attentive!)
  • Note: even if you successfully lure him into the crate he will likely still whine at times - I G N O R E. I can’t stress this enough. The sooner he learns whining = no reaction, the sooner he’ll learn to settle and nap. First week our puppy whined ~5 minutes each time, now it’s ~30 seconds max and MUCH less frequent. Consistency is key.

    Routine: Like I said our pup is awake for ~1 hour intervals throughout the day. Because pups do better with set schedules, I follow the same routine every hour and he seems to be doing better with this routine. Essentially what we do is : Wake up, pee, Train (5-10 mins max with his kibble or toys - like your ours isn’t food motivated but enjoys WORKING for his food, other times he’s more willing to work for toys so that could also be worth a try), fetch (physical exercise indoors), Train (5-10 mins max), play, leash train (indoors), play, pee, nap.

  • Physical exercise: A tired pup is a happy pup - but keep in mind there’s a fine line between proper exercise for a puppy and overstimulation - we’ve been doing 5-10 minutes of indoor fetch every hour awake and it looks like the perfect balance for us - you’ll have to play with this figure a little to see what works best but I promise the whining is bound to decrease if he’s already sleepy before crate time
  • Mental stimulation: poodles (and poodle crosses) are prone to getting bored without enough mental stimulation = excess whining. Mental stimulation includes feeder toys, puzzle games AND training. Our guy doesn’t really appreciate his kong lol but we have this ( and we bring it out once or twice a day - sometimes he won’t even eat the food in the holes but he likes figuring out the puzzle lol
  • Instilling independence: Okay so this is an area where I’ve noticed a BIG change since taking it seriously. The more you work on training commands, the more independence you’re installing in your pup. The more independent he feels, the more he can handle being alone, the outside world, scary interactions, etc. I’m not sure if you’ve done any puppy socialization classes or are looking into puppy training but I’d recommend finding a reputable one in your area and giving it a try. For training at home, we've had a lot of success with:

    Other tips:

  • Bully Sticks: these things can be a god send if you need some time to yourself. The first time we gave our puppy one he went wild for it and left us alone for an hour. The second time, he held it in his mouth and whined his face off lol. We realized our mistake was making it available to him too frequently in a short period of time. Keep high-value items like this a special occasion treat to maintain it’s value.
  • Toys: rotate toys. Have 2-3 toys out for a few days at a time, and learn which ones he gravitates to. You’ll discover which toys are high value + by rotating them he’ll get excited when his fav one from a certain batch is back in his turf. Take the high-value ones and make them crate only toys if they are safe to be played with unsupervised!
  • Kong: I wish I could give you advice here because the Kong was a god send for our other dogs. The advice that’s been given to me is teach him how to use it. Youtube is good for this but at the end of the day, some dogs just don’t like the kong. If you do want to use this or other puzzle feeders/treat toys DON’T increase the value of the treat if he’s disinterested. He’ll learn that he can ignore his kibble/low-value treats and hold out for the better stuff and you’ll end up with a finicky eater.
  • Daycare: Find a reputable one in your area bc it sounds like you need a little break and some socialization will be good for the little guy if you’re not looking into puppy classes or socialization classes.

    Hope this helps in some way shape or form, feel free to message me if you need to vent, compare puppy problems or ask any questions :)
u/WyzeCam · 3 pointsr/wyzecam

We're should be available on Amazon again now, /u/OSRgamerkid. We've included the link below but if you have any trouble viewing it or any more questions, please let us know. :)

Amazon Link:

u/sonicstates · 3 pointsr/RealEstate

Could you put one of these in:

Along with a cheap mifi Mobile hotspot?

If you got alerted with video to a break in quickly, would the cops respond?

u/100ProofSean · 3 pointsr/AskNYC

These dont have text alerts, but theyre small, discreet, cheap and work well.

u/AdamUndefined · 3 pointsr/halifax
u/amuricanjackass · 3 pointsr/Dogtraining

I was about to say the same thing. I downloaded the mobile app and can pull up the stream without any issues from my phone. Here is the link from Amazon and it's cheaper from their website. It worked great for me.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, Works with Alexa

u/TheVulkanMan · 3 pointsr/wyzecam

These are not security cams either.

They do say ...

>Wyze Cam v2 can automatically record a 10-15 second alert video when it detects motion or sound. Videos are securely uploaded to the Amazon AWS Cloud via end-to-end encryption and are accessible for 14 days – no subscription plan required.

Not sure how you missed that.

u/hankmoody_irl · 3 pointsr/Autoflowers

Not OP but this is what I'm looking at after several recommendations on here and r/microgrowery

u/Tyman98 · 3 pointsr/canadaguns
u/Erudidact · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Ahem, had a similar issue. Now I have Wyzecam pointed at the stove and on motion alert. Get it on Amazon. Cheap as hell. Excellent solution for multiple problems around the house and office. Tied to wifi so I can remote monitor whenever I wish. Enjoy!

u/Hello_Droogie · 3 pointsr/maximumfun

I think they're this.

Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision, 2-Way Audio, White

I looked at them for the price alone. There are a lot negative reviews that have to do with security and where the information is routed to, though.

u/orangetangerine · 3 pointsr/samoyeds

Separation anxiety is really tough. A big part of this is because some dogs are triggered by some stuff, but not others. Some can be managed and even fixed with a chew or a long-lasting puzzle toy, some will not take food.

My two suggestions to figuring out what flavor of sep-anx your dog has and what triggers it:

  1. Get a cheap camera. My favorite one is the Wyze cam with an SD card so you can see record motion or sound at your leisure.
  2. Take note of the "leaving routines" you and your partner do. My boyfriend and I are habit oriented (I'm ADHD so like, I have to do everything in the same order so I don't forget stuff, lol) and my dog totally picked up on our patterns. He started realizing we were leaving when my boyfriend got out of the shower and started dressing, and he started really internally panicking when he saw my boyfriend put his socks on. We tried feeding him in the morning, but because of our observations, we realized our dog would refuse to eat the moment he realized we were leaving and he saw the food as part of the "leaving routine" which made his picky eating a lot worse!

    A lot of the super-effective counterconditioning programs out there for effective behavior change will be slow - leaving your dog two minutes at a time. Sometimes dogs do better crated when they are left, some don't. Both my dogs, my Sammy and my terrier mix, have separation anxiety but completely different styles. My terrier as a puppy was much better when she was in a crate covered with a heavy blanket that made the crate into a warm cave. When she got older, we left her loose in the bedroom and she would literally make blanket caves for herself out of our comforters. My Sammy was completely inconsolable in the crate, and if his needs are met he's non-destructive, so he's much easier to keep loose in our house. He is also one of the rare dogs that benefit from having another dog with him when he's home alone (they are still separated in different rooms for completely hilarious and sad reasons), whereas my terrier doesn't. Through observing him and tweaking our setup and our leaving routines, he normally is either completely quiet or our videos show he barks for about 2 minutes and then goes to sleep and is totally ok. He's also a dog who likes to watch TV, so when his SA was at its worst we actually would put fast moving dogs on YouTube for him and noticed on our camera that it helped a bit.

    So to figure out what will fix, or at least help the issue, it's good to have some observations of your dog alone and also how he behaves around you and work to create better associations to you leaving or giving your dog some coping skills. It's always rough when you start out working on it and any fix that is effective (and puts your dog in a good place mentally and emotionally) usually takes a bit of time and some iterations to implement.
u/shortymcsteve · 3 pointsr/wyzecam

There's a better way:

OP, this is probably the cheapest they will sell them for. If it's your first time I recommend jumping on the deal if you're planning to spend more than $25 for the free shipping. But if you're unsure then I'm sure it's possible we will see a $20 deal on Amazon again.

Also, if you live near a Micro Centre you can pick up their own branded SD cards super cheap. For example, a 128gb card costs $12.99. I use their 64gb card and have several months worth of clips stored on it.

u/RabidBlackSquirrel · 3 pointsr/guns

Old ass Nikon D80 with this 50mm

u/storyportal · 3 pointsr/rawdenim

I picked up this 50mm 1.8 lens for my Nikon. I grabbed a refurbished D3200 about two months ago (college budget, whooo). It's actually kinda funny - my camera doesn't have an onboard AF motor, but to pick up a lens was $100 more expensive to buy one w/ the lens-based AF motor... so I just bought the cheaper one and have been manual-focus bumblefucking my way through life.

It's a little tricky sometimes but also kind of interesting and fun? Shrug. Photography is like a tertiary hobby for me, after clothes and writing. I've gotten better since taking the 877 pics, I promise.

u/the_philter · 3 pointsr/pics

In my opinion, it is. Even though it's not 50mm, it seems to be the most popular choice for a second lens when people are first getting into photography, just like the nifty-fifty.

There IS this bad boy, though.

u/ParkaBoi · 3 pointsr/Cameras

Good choice. I started out with a Nikon entry level camera and I think it was a good choice.

If you have funds, I'd recommend getting a bag and a spare battery (third-party batteries are usually fine). A second battery is always the first thing I get when I get a new camera; nothing is more frustrating than having to stop shooting because your only battery has died.

Once you get used to the 18-55 kit lens, you might want to pick up a 50mm prime lens They're incredible cheap (<$80 on eBay) and the quality is very good. On the D3300 it will be a good lens for portraits.

And don't bother with one of those big accessory bundles, most of the stuff is complete crap. All you need is camera, lens, memory card, 2x battery (one spare) and a battery charger.You'll get all of that - apart form the second battery - in the box you've linked.

Good luck!

u/spisska · 3 pointsr/photography

I'd take your dad's camera down to the shop and get a repair estimate -- chances are all you need is a sensor cleaning, which is pretty cheap to get done.

Photography can be an absolute money sink, so it's worth making sure it's something you like before shelling out a ton of cash.

A 6.8 MP Nikon is still a better camera than 12 MP point-and-shoot, particularly when paired with a good lens. You'll be able to get images that blow up to about 16x10 without showing artifacts.

Given that this is a new hobby, I'd try to make do with the older body and invest in a good lens or two. Although price and quality are generally linked, you can find good lenses for very reasonable prices.

Also, get some books on photography or sign up for a class.

If you learn on what you have, you'll get a much better idea about what you need to invest in to get the pictures you're after. In two years, you can expect better electronics than these models for the same price.

u/flapjack_cooker · 3 pointsr/pics

This is a great lens - although depending on the Nikon body you have it may not auto-focus. You can get them pretty cheap, and if the AF thing isn't that big a deal to you, you'll have an awesome lens. I have this one on my D5100 and use it for night shooting all the time.

u/luminaeus · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

I'm going to assume this is your first entry into digital photography.

The camera body is fine.

The 18-55mm kit lens will take a decent to good photo in most circumstances. An external flash will improve your results in low light situations.

The 70-300mm will only be useful (hand held) in bright daylight because of it's narrow apeture and lack of image stabilization. A monopod or tripod will help. I'd also recommend a remote to further minimize vibration.

I highly recommend getting a nifty-fifty. I have basically the same lens on my Canon and it takes a higher quality picture than all my other lenses, some of which cost nearly $1000.

u/Tetimi · 3 pointsr/mycology

Thanks! I use a Canon Rebel T3i with their "nifty fifty" lens. It can be annoying for anything large since it has a fixed zoom, but it's my favorite lens ever for dark forest macro shots.
I have some more fungi and moss photos on my tumblr.

u/jeffster888 · 3 pointsr/berkeley

I've got that lens too. It's a prime lens, so you can't change the focal length, i.e. zoom. 50mm is near the same as the max focal length on the stock T2i lens. In exchange for not being able to zoom, however, the aperture is wider and the lens is capable of letting in more light, allowing for less noisy/crisper shots in lower light (and also sexier bokeh). Moreover, it's a really affordable lens (assuming letrainfalldown is talking about the same Nifty Fifty Canon lens that I have.

u/kelkulus · 3 pointsr/aww

I'll assume you're referring to how the closer part of the image is blurry and not directions on how to involve a puppy :) This is known as a shallow depth of field, which is common on lenses with large apertures. As a related example, when you see a portrait with the background all blurry but the subject in focus, it's known as bokeh. This was likely taken with a "prime lens", ie. one with a fixed length, and doesn't have a zoom feature. The cheapest way to get a shot like this would be to use an SLR and such a lens. For example, Canon has a 50mm f/1.8 lens for about $100 on Amazon.

u/PontiousPilates · 3 pointsr/canon

/u/asad137 is completely right about camera choice. Go for the older model. (It has the exact same sensor in it!) And you should have money for this lens. It was the best $100 I ever spent. It's perfect for portraits of family and friends. Here are two examples. (one) (two)

u/RedneckHippie111 · 3 pointsr/DSLR

If you are just getting started and have absolutely no gear, then this would be a good way to get into DSLRs. It has everything you will need to get out and take photos and learn what you need to learn before you start throwing big money at lenses and full frame sensor cameras.

I have the same 2 kit lenses for mine, and I shoot all kinds of video and photos (for money and for fun). I also have some extra gear that I have collected for video gigs through the years, like lights, stabilizing rigs, etc that help, but, it's not always about having the best gear, it's finding a way to make what you have work. You could have a $10k camera rig, but if you have no idea how to frame a shot, set aperture/shutter speed, color balance, etc, you won't get good results.

I would recommend getting this lens as well if you have the extra money. It is a great little lens for the price.

u/ZacharyRD · 3 pointsr/AskPhotography

Honestly, that lens is not worth it, because it's a very awkward lens for most things on a 1.6x crop body, such as the 60D. 300mm on a 60d is the equivilent to >450mm on a full frame sensor, and is not really necessary. Even if it was nicer glass, it's just not a lens I'd want to own as one of my first lenses.

If you wanted a cheap lens, it's not the one I'd buy -- The "Nifty Fifty" -- is even cheaper, and I'd prefer it. As I'd also prefer the Canon 40mm fixed lens.

If you want a telephoto lens, the kit lens Canon 55-250 is a much better buy, and can be found MUCH cheaper used, because it's practically given away in many kits. Amazon has their refurbished price as within $30 of each other.

u/crappuccino · 3 pointsr/videos

You would be right -- a 5D won't take an EFS lens.

He may have been rocking an EF 50mm 1.8

u/cptsamir · 3 pointsr/photography

Wait, this lens? Cuz if its this, I am buying it right now.

u/jack_e · 3 pointsr/photography

Or get a much better value for the 50mm f/1.8.

u/docfluty · 3 pointsr/photography

I would say this is a good list for those looking to take nice pictures on a budget.

But if you were going to be a photography student or really try to make a go at it i would stay skip the older lenses and just invest in a $125 or $400 50mm prime lens from your cameras manufacturer.

I also would say not to be scared to pick up a used one from a reputable dealer on ebay for a bigger discount

The sharpness, loca, ect will be better and all of the electronics (like autofocus) will work.

u/3nvygreen · 3 pointsr/videography

Seconding the kit 18mm as probably wide enough, but if you're wanting really wide at that price range - here's a Samyang 10mm 2.8 or if you don't mind not having as fast a lens (less DoF options and need more light) a Canon 10-18.

My advice since I own the same camera - if you don't have it already get magic lantern installed. If you have trouble PM me and I'll walk you through. It gives you new options with your camera. Second, if you don't have a fast lens, get the nifty fifty - canon 50mm 1.8 and consider getting the new canon 24mm 2.8. These are fast prime lenses that will 1, challenge you to work on framing your shots since you can't just adjust the zoom, and 2, let you open up for more light, practice things like pulling focus, get some 'cinematic' shots with subject in focus and the blurry background (bokeh). Then invest in audio. At the very least a dslr shotgun mic like the Rode VMP or if you have a smartphone you can use, something like a Rode Smartlav. Better yet, spend next to nothing and make one out of a headphone/microphone combo for cell phones like this one. Tons of DIY projects on the web. Buy a really cheap cam stabilizer or make one. Same for jibs. Make a skateboard dolly shot rig.

u/Swampfoot · 3 pointsr/canon

Nifty Fifty, the 50mm f/1.8. Quite inexpensive.

Or if you wanna be Mister Big Shot, the 35mm f/1.4.

u/paynestaker · 3 pointsr/photography
  • Canon T3i $479.99
  • EF-S 24mm 2.8 Pancake $149.00
  • EF 50mm 1.8 $125.00
  • You still have $245 to get a monopod, bag, snacks, whatever!
u/RandomAlex · 3 pointsr/Filmmakers

Here ya go! This is what will really give you those beautiful, cinematic, dof heavy shots. I have this lens, but if you can swing it, it may be worth it to grab a similar lens but an f/1.4 instead. It'll give you just that much shallower of dof.

u/jseliger · 3 pointsr/photography

Given your shooting constraints, you might be better off adding the s95 if you have the cash. I have a t2i and s100, and I think of them as complements more than substitutes.

Also: what lenses do you have on your t2i? If you're not using a nifty 50, you should at least be thinking about experimenting with it.

u/Raging_Asian_Man · 3 pointsr/canon

My god. They did it! This is exactly what I'm looking for. Ready for a quantum leap from my T3i!!!


Just to be sure, can someone confirm that I can still use my Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II Camera Lens if I have the adapter?

u/d3jg · 3 pointsr/canon

I would add to this a recommendation for considering a "nifty fifty" as one of your near future lens additions. I still don't know why Canon doesn't include this as a kit lens, but hey, I guess they figure it's a great way to squeeze an extra $125 out of everybody. This is a de facto standard prime lens for all Canon users.

u/filemeaway · 3 pointsr/photography

I'd say get the Canon t2i kit with the 18-135mm and a nifty fifty.

That's $970 so far, but he'll probably want a bag that can hold the camera and extra lens. Tamrac makes great bags.

So you've got a great kit with a lot of range and a sharp prime that rocks at low light.

Additional recommended purchases would be the book Understanding Exposure and Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 4.

Edit: To be fair, maybe have him check out a Nikon DSLR (D5100 would be a comparable choice) along with a Canon to determine which one feels better. Both companies make great cameras of similar quality and performance—it really does come down to personal preference. And as a side note, I personally shoot a Nikon.

u/runMechanical · 3 pointsr/videos

i hear you, friend. i think the library is a great idea. even if you don't check anything out, it would be fun just simply browsing the stacks.

i'm really glad you mentioned you're into space. i'm a bit of a space geek myself (highly recommend /r/astrophotography). easily one of the best purchases i made last year was sky watching binoculars. i don't know anything about your budget, but they are relatively cheap for what you can see with them (described towards the end of this paragraph). these are 15x70, meaning they have 70mm lenses so they can gather a lot of light, and objects are magnified 15 times, so they appear 15 times larger in the binos. the downside to 15x magnitude is holding them by hand means the image will shake a bit - it's doable by hand, but it helps to hold them but rest the lens-end on something like a chair to hold them steady (a tripod would be best if you have one or can buy one, but i have simply laid on the ground outside and basically used my face to keep them steady while looking straight up). anyway, i can reliably see 3 to 4 of jupiter's moons with these. now, they are pinpoints of light in the image, but you can definitely see them and see how they are all in similar planes. saturn becomes oblong because of the rings, you can almost see the gap between the body and the rings. shadows in the craters at the moon's terminator are visible. depending on where you are, you can see the general shape of the gases of the orion nebula (m42, or messier number 42).

anyway, i kind of rambled here but if you're into space, 15x70 binos are an excellent place to start before diving into the telescope world. happy to provide more info if needed.

u/bdh008 · 3 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Story Here

I'm pretty excited for the lunar eclipse tonight. I live on the West Coast so it's not too late for me. But my dad has these binoculars which work awesome, and I really want to see the shadow creep across the moon. I'm excited!

u/Veteran4Peace · 3 pointsr/CampingandHiking

You need an Edmunds Astroscan. I don't think there's any other contender for this category. It's surprisingly steady and comfortable to use and you can even sit cross-legged and plop it directly in your own lap. It'll give you great views on a dark night, and the thing is so easy to use that anyone who is with you will be able to use it.

You might also consider a set of astronomy binoculars. I have a pair of Celestron Skymaster (15x70) and they're just about perfect for observing Messier class objects and planets, though looking at the full moon through them is a blinding experience. :-P

But seriously, you can't go wrong with that Astroscan.

u/Piktro · 3 pointsr/photography

The corner / wall method is your best option for minimal equipment. White walls are best, grey walls would work too. You will need a single flash or strobe with a cheap light stand / umbrella, and ideally a tripod / tethered laptop to make sure shots are consistent and ensure exposure looks good. Normally you would need a trigger for the flash, but you can use your pop-up flash as an optical trigger without affecting the exposure (covered in the video I linked below).

Cheap Stand / Umbrella ($29):

Cheap / Reliable Flash ($63):

And the following items are not 100% necessary, but you can use them for anything in your house, not just the flash - and these batteries are fantastic.

Rechargable Batteries with Charger ($18):

8-Pack Rechargable AA Batteries ($19):

Here's a video explaining single speed light portraits:
They have some similar videos too, worth checking out.

Just get your settings right with test shots, shoot raw, shoot full manual with an aperture of 5.6 or 8, ISO 100, 1/200 of a second. Your flash through umbrella will probably be at 1/4 or 1/8 power. The closer the light source is to the subject, the softer the light will be. Check your histogram to make sure you aren't blowing out any highlights. Tell people to wear basic, neutral clothes for the shoot, ideally not white, and have them all bring one alternate outfit just in case.

There is a lot that goes into it, but just watch some YouTube videos (Tony Chelsea, Gavin Hoey on Adorama), practice a bit with yourself, friends, family, and you'll be good to go.

If you have any other questions about it, feel free to PM me!

Edit: As far as lenses go, use the 50mm 1.8. It's the sharpest lens in your kit. Don't use it wide open, shoot at f5.6 or higher, and make sure your subject is about 5-6 feet from the wall behind them.

u/Gary_Burke · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Amazon has a four pack with a charger for $20. It's a great deal for the best batteries on the market. I put a pair in my controller on launch day, then proceeded to play a shit-load of battlefield. A week later I changed them while looking at Battlelog, which said I had put in 32 hours that week. 32 hours on one pair of rechargeables. Amazing.

u/Cum_Omlette · 2 pointsr/graphic_design

Just recently started getting into photography because of how influential it is in design (so please take what I say as a grain of salt). To start things off, photography in general is more equipment heavy than graphic design I will say. A lot of people will argue that you can replicate any photo style on any camera, but I typically disagree with this.

With that being said, price points can also be a be a bit subjective and relate with your experience level. A professional might consider a $1,500 lens to be cheap, while newcomers might find spending $1,000+ on a full kit to be expensive.

I might be a bit biased as it was the first camera I've ever bought, but I personally love Sony cameras! While Cannon, Nikon and Pentax have made names for themselves, Sony is quickly catching up with their market. In general, Sony's line of cameras are extremely universal, with their e-mount lenses the possibilities are endless. They've even provided lens adapters for many of the top camera companies, if you ever wanted to buy additional lenses.

My first camera was a Sony A6000, and I highly recommend it as a beginner level camera! They have a more updated Sony A6300, but it's entirely up to you and what you plan on using it for.

u/huffalump1 · 2 pointsr/photography

First search result for "a6000" on amazon ($548):

Whoever is selling you the camera for $1000 is ripping you off. There's even a bundle with the 16-50 and 55-210 for $700:

A much better bargain than the warranty is camera insurance. Here's a big thread talking about it.

u/bradtwo · 2 pointsr/Cameras

Hello fellow Michigan(area) Person.... Lake Orion, MI here.

Remember, whichever camp you go with (Sony, Nikon, Canon, Panasonic) For the most part you're going to want to stick with that, so you can move your Lenses (the true investment) among your cameras.

All of these cameras with Shoot RAW.

Canon has the T5i which is in the price range. It has all the manual options available, plus it is very forgiving. 18-55mm Kit will set you back about $650. I borrow the T3i from a friend, it has its moments (Again, I'm not usually using Canons) especially when it came to white balancing. BUT! Shoot Raw and forget about it. I'm sure the T5i has resolved that issue. :

If you want Amateur friendly, I would (strongly) suggest the Sony A6000 series for your price range. While not technically a DSLR (its a mirrorless), Above all, they are VERY compact so if you travel a lot, they are just an awesome companion. To me, I feel that it is one of the best travel cameras that are made, given what you get for the footprint. Lacking a GPS, sadly... but one day soon. I have a NEX3 (Older version) that I've shot so many amazing pictures with. Here is the A6000 This comes with a 16-50MM range :

In the other corner, on the more video side of things (being able to shoot amazing videos)

For 800 I would recommend (as a suggestion) a GH2 kit. Beyond photography, it is a killer video camera (as paraphrased by Philip Bloom). These can be obtained used for the $700 mark on Amazon all day long. This of course is also not technically a DSLR, Micro 4:3.

u/maroon23 · 2 pointsr/photography

I'm wondering if this would be a good choice for a beginner camera.

I've been looking at getting into the basics of photography and I like the features and the premise of mirrorless cameras since I would mainly be using them outside when hiking. (Don't like the weight of a dslr nor the lack of customization of a point and shoot)

Also should I get a different lens other than the one bundled?

u/xAnomaly_ · 2 pointsr/a6000

Thanks /u/Givemesomepaypalmomy for asking some great questions and /u/frippilin for providing some feedback. So some thing like this might be a good start? Also on Amazon, I saw there are a few bundles, but I am not sure about the quality, I rather spend a little more for something good.

u/ChocolateWatch · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

Sony A6000. $698 on Amazon, compact, interchangeable lenses if you want them, full manual control if you want it, great image quality. Perfect travel camera that will serve you well when you get back too.

Maybe throw in a Gorillapod Flexible Tripod for shots of the stars/landscapes/yourself. You can use it like a regular tripod or wrap it around posts, branches, whatever.

u/keanex · 2 pointsr/nfl

Yup, you can get a bundle for under $500 though. That has a zoom lens 17-50mm.

u/kare_kano · 2 pointsr/photography

> I am a leather maker and take horrible pictures of my stuff (maybe it's my skill)

It may be your skill but you're also most likely not using a good lens for it. You need a macro lens that can do 1:1 or 1:2 magnification. Here's a nice video that gives a cool introduction to macro photography and the most common gotchas.

Product photography is not hard once you got a decent lens, you can do it at home and you mostly need a white sheet of paper as background and some natural light coming in through the window. You can of course add artificial lights and all kinds of tricks as well as post-processing, but those are the basics for getting some decent shots straight out of camera.

Now the Tamron SP 90mm mentioned in the above video is a very nice macro lens but a manual focus version is about $200 and an autofocus version is more so it's not a good fit for your budget. Perhaps something to keep in mind for later on. Manual focus is fine for your needs, the leather I presume is not going anywhere so no need for autofocus. The focal length (90mm) is also not a versatile length for travel.

So for now focus on your travel needs. The Sony A6000 with a 16-50mm zoom is about $400-425 used.

The A6000 is a mirrorless camera and can easily adapt macro lenses from most other camera mounts, so it would not be a problem later to get a macro lens plus a $20 adapter and it will work fine. I recommend looking for older manual focus macro lenses because like I said you don't need autofocus, and older lenses are cheaper but just as good as long as the glass is in good condition.

u/ChallengeResponse · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

Thanks for the info. Here's the camelcamelcamel price chart showing the dip for the kit:

u/JP8_And_Coke · 2 pointsr/amateurradio

I'm loving mine:
And I can charge 1, 2, 3, or 4 at a time. Get two of the above, and you're set for a long time.

u/bushmaster2000 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I use Panasonic Enerloop batteries they're a newer generation of rechargeable and highly recommended, they're 2000mah with 2100 recharge cycle lifetime.


if you jsut want to go for raw capacity, here's some 3000mah ones

u/BrewingHeavyWeather · 2 pointsr/flashlight

> To be frank, I don't fully understand all the differences yet. Any type of battery should be fine as long as it can be recharged or replaced fairly easily (i.e. via Amazon or regular hardware stores).

There's pretty much 1xAA, 2xAA, 1xCR123, 2xCR123, and 18650 (not all 18650 flashlights take CR123s!). CR123 is, IMO, a nicer form factor, for handling, but rechargeable energy density is crap, TBH. AA gives you the most versatility. But, avoid alkalines whenever possible, for flashlights. For AA size, depending on flashlight, either go with 14500, or Japan-made Eneloops (Duracell and Amazonbasics both have rebranded versions of these at good prices).

AA NIMH have a nominal voltage range of 1.0-1.25V. 14500 fit in the same space, with 3.6-4.2V, should a single AA flashlight allow greater voltage. Often, that will give you greater max output. OTOH, you'll have to be really careful if lending the light to anyone else. Today, though, most get pretty good output on AA NIMH. Japanese Eneloops are the best rechargeables out there, and can be found under Panasonic's name, Amazonbasics', and Duracell (if buying at a B&M store, look for made in Japan on the back). I've had those, and knock-offs (like Rayovac's), and over time, with real world use, the difference is not subtle. I have not used Chinese Eneloops, myself, but largely because reports by users, and tests on them, indicated similar behavior to the knock-offs I'd had. The Japanese ones just keep on going.

18650 is a little bigger than 2xCR123, and has a nominal voltage range of 3.6-4.2V. 2xCR123 have a nominal range of around 2.5-6V. 18650 has the most R&D going into it, being the most popular size (it's what is in laptops and power tools, among other things), so you get the most energy storage for the size, weight, and money. But, it does not have a comparable primary cell to swap it with, so make sure the flashlight in question can take 2xCR123 as backup (if not stated that way, make sure it can take at least 6V input).

You can get good chargers and batteries for $15-20 total, for about any handheld sizes (make sure to get a charger that has independent bays, if going AA NIMH - example), so your $75 budget is pretty realistic, and honestly, gives you tons of options.

Also, if you keep up with your rechargeable cells, costs of Lithium primary batteries (including AAA and AA) will not be much, in the long run. A leaky alkaline AA can do a lot of damage, so I would advise against using them if there is any other option; and the actual costs over time are fairly small, when you're usually just partially discharging the rechargeable cell(s) in between top offs, 90% of the time.

Panasonic-made CR123s are the quality ones to buy, if going that route for primaries. They can be had online for around $1.50/ea., so comparable with, or slightly cheaper than, AA Lithiums. You can also buy them at not-exorbitant prices at hardware stores and outdoors stores, and probably gun shops. Surefire, Streamlight, and Duracell, are all made at the same plant, and are all good quality. Some cheaper ones, like the popular Tenergy, are known for aging poorly, and getting unbalanced quickly. If mainly using rechargeable cells for day to day use, I don't think saving money that way provides good value.

> A good mix of throw and flood seems best. I don't want something too far toward either end of the spectrum.

While I'm not a big fan of their UIs (though the Pro does seem nicer than non-Pro, IMO), I think Armytek's TIR lights have the best balanced beams for EDCs, in the $40-60 range, with a wide spot, and plenty of flood.

u/superninjaa · 2 pointsr/xbox

Yes. There's an Xbox One Play & Charge Kit that you can purchase at most stores. Another alternative which I personally use are rechargeable battery kits such as this which include four batteries, equivalent to two battery packs and it's cheaper as well.

u/BkLiveWire · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Here’s what I recommend [Panasonic Eneloop AA Batteries 4 Pack](Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/BaconStratman · 2 pointsr/Guitar

Works great for me at house parties, small venues, and churches.

I've read complaints about the clip and a weak battery door but I keep a pouch on my guitar straps that holds and protects the transmitter and my guitars well:

I also rotate rechargeable batteries so I don't worry about losing my signal mid set:

u/miggitymikeb · 2 pointsr/xbox360

Eneloops son

Don't buy a wired controller, buy this.

u/bacon_jews · 2 pointsr/oculus

I had this once, batteries completely drained within 1 day. I figured it's probably because I was setting my controllers thumbstick down and they were triggered as active, but I can't prove that. Now I set controllers trigger down and I keep my Oculus runtime turned off when not using, just in case.

For batteries just get Panasonic Eneloop. You'll have two charging and two in controllers, just swap them when needed. It will pay back in no time, also more environmentally friendly.

u/ggf31416 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

If you want a cheap AA option: Sofirn SP10A ($12) + Panasonic Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop ($18). You can get both from Amazon.
or even cheaper Sofirn SP10A + 4 Amazonbasics rechargable batteries from Amazon (you may need to buy something else to get free shipping) + a Zanflare Lii 100 ($4) single slot charger from Gearbest.

For another 18650 option A: Zanflare F1 4500-5000K from Gearbest with usb charging + get a protected battery from either Ilumn (they have a protected 3500mah MJ1 for $6.50 + shipping), IMRbatteries or liionwholesale.
For another 18650 option B: If the fog is dense I would suggest the Sofirn SF36W with a 2800mah battery from aliexpress, which it's available on 3000K warm white and should penetrate better the fog.

u/Nusent · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Eneloop is the way to go. Best purchase in a while.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger with eneloop AA New 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries, 4 Pack, White

u/reditor_1234 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)


As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :

Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**


And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :


These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.

u/OscarExplosion · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Not sure how the Xbox One Play n Charge kits are, but the Xbox 360 ones are notorious for being total garbage. You are way better off buying a pack of eneloops and a charger

u/SchmoopiePoopie · 2 pointsr/Xbox_One_X

I highly recommend rechargeable batteries, especially if you only use them for XOX controllers. I use these and they blow away the other brands I’ve used in the past. Having 4 is good because you can swap them out.

u/voneahhh · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It's right here

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4 AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries

u/Conrpnc · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Go with these and this. I'm sure there are better deals to be found, I just went for the easy links.

EDIT: Sorry, that first link should have been to just the batteries not the pack with the charger. Point is Eneloops and a good charger.

u/Kronickiller125 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

4 AA standard charger


That’s a good price then you can build up.

u/YouAreSalty · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I recommend getting something like this:

This is the minimum as you need a charger, but there are packs at Costco often on sale for $20 that has like 6 AA batteries and 2 AAA. The one great deal on Amazon today is sold out. I missed out too. :'(

u/trAnwhiz · 2 pointsr/SteamController

The white Eneloops barely discharge when not used, which is important since you will have the 2nd pair charged and ready to replace the used ones when you run out of juice. You don't wanna pop in half charged batteries every time.

There are also higher capacity (~2500 mAh) Eneloops compared to the white ones (1900 mAh) but that comes at the expense of lifespan / charge cycles. The white ones are ultra durable, about 2000 charge cycles.

u/TheBassassin · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Don't buy Nyko anything. At least my experience has been bad with that brand.

My advice would be to buy Eneloops which are rechargeable and affordable AA batteries.

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (4 pack)

u/DJManny128 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Here's the Amazon link for these Batteries

Panasonic K-KJ17MCA4BA Advanced Individual Cell Battery Charger Pack with 4AA eneloop 2100 Cycle Rechargeable Batteries (4 pack)

Edit: Here's my choice if you want OVERKILL.

Panasonic K-KJ17KHC82A eneloop pro NEW High Capacity Power Pack, 8AA, 2AAA, with "Advanced" Individual Battery Charger

u/jimbonics · 2 pointsr/xboxone
u/TheBigBadQ · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I cannot recommend these enough.

My roommate has 12 that he swaps out throughout his devices and they're all working as great today as they did 2 years ago. I've had my set of 4 for about 4 months and they've been amazing. So much better than the play and charge kit. Also, if you have other micro USB cables I would try them because back when I had an Elite, only certain ones would charge it.

u/bowlofspiders · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Use this link:
That's the one I purchased. The charger takes about 4 hours to charge the batteries if you're patient and don't want the pro charger.

u/JRhodes88 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is pretty much expected. If you are using more features that are being powered through the same 2 AA batteries, there will be more drain then not having those extra features.

I'd recommend you get some of these Sanyo Eneloops for your controllers (and other electronics in your house)

u/PastalaVista666 · 2 pointsr/betteroffbrands

I actually got one when I bought my Xbox One (tax refund, woo), but it doesn't work at all. The controllers don't seat in the charger so they don't charge. I'm leery of getting another, just because I don't want the same situation to happen.

I'm looking at these rechargeable Panasonic batteries and charger for about $15, they're not off-brand but they might save some money.

u/offdahizle · 2 pointsr/Vive

I recommend the Neewer. I bought two different pair.

The Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography

And Ravelli ALS Full 10' Air Cushioned Light Stand With Included Adaptor To Also Support 1/4" and 3/8" Photo Equipment and Heavy Duty Carry Bag

The Ravelli has a nice slow decend once the nut is loose. But it has a little play in the head. I haven't notice any jitter in VR but I suspect it might be a issue for some.

The Neewer are basic and light but sturdy and almost half the cost.

u/The_Middleman · 2 pointsr/Vive

I use these with these. The tripods are currently out of stock, but cost me around $28 for the pair when I bought them. They work great.

u/ArchiMarK · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Tripods or building support systems (combined with a clamp) seem to be the common solution to prevent drilling.

I've also mounted one of my base stations on top of a bookshelf using duct tape and this also works perfectly, though you'll need a shelf in the neighbourhood of your play area in order to be able to do this.

I wouldn't risk just taping them to a wall though. I've been contemplating to use a combination of industrial two-sided tape and nails (much thinner than a screw and it thus makes only very small holes in the wall) but decided to drill in the end, just to be safe.

u/BenKenobi88 · 2 pointsr/Vive

That's really all you need though...taller than you. Or rather, taller than anybody's who going to be playing on your system.

So if you're 5 foot nothing, a 6 foot tripod would be fine. A 9 foot tripod should cover just about anybody. I got ones like these.

u/nonsensepoem · 2 pointsr/Vive

So far I've had perfect success with this light stand and this attachment. I extend the legs completely which then take up a relatively small area, and I secure the legs with the two strong rubber bands that came with the attachments. The footprint is a triangle of about 1' (30.48 cm) per side.

u/mehidontknow1 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Tripod light stands from Amazon that you can find for around $30 a pair. That coupled with $5.00/pair adjustable ball and socket type mounts that allow the lightboxes to be titled. See below.


Neewer® Set of Two 9 feet (260CM) Photo Studio Light Stands for Video, Portrait, and Product Photography

And these:

EXMAX Tripod Mini Ball Head for DSLR Camera Camcorder Light Bracket Swivel 1/4" Screw

u/nuclear_wizard_ · 2 pointsr/Vive

Two problems I see with this setup. First, you won't get the full 7 feet of height out of those, reducing the tracked height. While you might not be 6 foot or higher, think about if you're standing and whatever game/application wants you to reach up above you. These stands have a 9 foot extendable bar and are only a couple of bucks more expensive. That ball head bracket will also work for that stand.

Another thing I was worried about is the fact that at the end of the fairly long (and fairly light) pole, the lighthouse stations spin around; so even with a stable setup if you bump it, it might tip over. I picked up a couple of tripod sandbag holders and constructed a couple of cheap 10-pound weights using sand poured into gallon sized ziplock bags duct taped up then added a couple of layers of heavy-duty trash bag with more duct tape to ensure 2-3 layers of insurance should the bag break.

u/Bigsam411 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Yeah I hope it's not an issue either. Looking at your link though that is for a single stand. You should get this one instead. Same company but two are included.

Edit: also get two of these if you do not want the pink ones linked above.

u/smidgeons · 2 pointsr/Vive

I looked into this the other day too and yes the lighthouse has a standard tripod screw underneath and comes with small wallbrackets with a swivel ball on it.

I bought and 2 of these just incase as they are cheap is the mount that comes with the Vive (bear in mind this image is very old so the included brackets will be a bit better. I did see an image the other day of the new one in an unpacking review but cant find it now, sorry)

u/Bengquanman · 2 pointsr/Vive

I would say more space is better! But,

Get this

And this

You're welcome :)

u/MEGADOR · 2 pointsr/Vive

You can mount them on the wall at home if you want. Then when you want to take them to work just unscrew the lighthouse from the base, leaving the base on the wall.

Then just pick up something like these and take them wherever!

u/aiiye · 2 pointsr/Vive

I bought some this week. Let me find what I have.


Neewer Set of Two 9 feet/260 centimeters Photo Studio Light Stands for HTC Vive VR, Video, Portrait, and Product Photography

Eggsnow 2PCS 1/4" Mini Tripod Ball Head Bracket Holder Mount Ballhead for DSLR Camera

The stands are supposed to arrive tomorrow so I'll finally do the setup. (Controllers are plugged in at my desk though.)

u/Gingaskunk · 2 pointsr/Vive

I bought THESE (they come as a pair), along with 2 of THESE (sold invidually) and they work great, super-sturdy.

I bought them back when the Vive first came out so there might be cheaper solutions out there now though.

u/TJ_VR · 2 pointsr/Vive

I got them when there were on sale for $29. They are $36 now, still not bad though.

u/Anfraxx · 2 pointsr/vive_vr

Someone has already mentioned the storage but I recommend one of these stands - It holds everything and looks good, you can still charge the wands too whilst they are resting in the stand.


If you are not confident in drilling holds in the wall and mounting the sensors you can always buy some tripods (I got a set of 2 that extend to 7ft) and they also allow for easy configuration of finding the right sensors set ups.


I have these combined with these adjustable brackets for full fluid setting up.

u/Some_guitarist · 2 pointsr/Vive

Dug through my Amazon list from last year. Here is what I got:


Head attachments:

Those worked great for me. Only downside is that the stands don't really collapse too much if you ever want to put them away.

u/flrancid · 2 pointsr/Vive

a little concerned about them being too wobbly. we'll see

u/Growmaster22 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Carson Micro Brite Plus 60X-120X LED Lighted Pocket Microscope

u/Rpash_ · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Carson Micro Brite Plus 60X-120X...

Best bang for your buck IMO

u/MySecretGardenIsDope · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

You might have already made your decision, but one of the best tools I've bought is this $13 microscope - it takes all the guesswork out for me. Great looking plant!


*Edited to include the UK link on Amazon

u/Asurian · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Im no professional but I think your to far away with the Loupe.

Personally i use this 15$ thing from amazon it has 60-120x zoom.

Edit: Ninja'd by /u/MySecretGardenIsDope

u/pnw_nerd_treeaccount · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Take a look at a bud under a microscope. If you don't have one, you can get a 120x for like $15 on Amazon

If the trichomes are amber and/or cloudy then it's harvest time, but if they're still clear then give it more time.

u/SushinWasabi · 2 pointsr/MOMpics

I use this to check out when my weed is ready to chop, you can make insane close-up picture

But it's 60-120x , maybe too much but it's so fun !

u/CannaSoul · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I use this

u/kitreia · 2 pointsr/uktrees

I recommend grabbing that dude, check your bud under a microscope. It's definitely worth doing so you don't smoke bad bud!

u/Growaway420420 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Just try to make some room for the light to reach the lower buds. Also trim some lower leaves that may not be getting any light.

Here is the jewlers loupe I use and really like it:

u/runninscared · 2 pointsr/Wet_Shavers

yea, keith is who i bought my first jnat from. hes incredibly knowledgable and alot of what i know is learned from his site. i literally learned to hone w/ jnats from a method he told me.

if you arent getting edges that are similar to what pros are giving you off a 12k then ill give you a few tips:

for starters i heard you have to lap a bit off the 4k/8k sides because they are a bit harsh to start(dont own one so im not 100% on this) but if you dont already have a good loupe or a pocket microscope get one. after you get the bevel set(this is really where it all begins. it has to cut hair along the length of the bevel) make sure you remove all scratches from your previous hone. after the 8k you should have a very polished bevel. you will need to know what to look at though so its going to take some practice. hit your 12k and do about 20~ or so x strokes, only enough weight to keep the razor on the hone. then check the bevel. if it looks rough still you needed more work on the 8k. your 12k edge needs to be highly polished with no large scratches and definitely no chips. id say if you cant get that look off your 12k within 30 x strokes, you didnt spend enough time on the 8. best of luck.

it really just takes a good bit of practice. to start with dont worry about overhoning. thats a load of shit anyway. as long as you arent doing uneven amount of strokes on each side and developing a burr then dont worry about overhoning. tbh stroke counting is kind of pointless anyway. i only say 20-30 as a general guideline it may take less it may take more. let the scratch pattern dictate where to go.

u/Bone-Juice · 2 pointsr/canadagrows

I just got this one from Amazon. It's a bit of a pain to try to do it while holding the scope in your hand but I just cut off a tiny piece of bud leaf and put it on the table which works out great.

u/Squints_Forever · 2 pointsr/GrowingMarijuana

That's some good looking flower I'd say they're close but the only way you're going to be able to tell when's the perfect time to harvest is by looking at the trichomes with a loupe. You can get one on amazon for ~$10.

I have this pocket microscope 60x is even almost too much because you get a very narrow view of the flower, I have to move it around a lot, but you can definitely clearly tell what stage the trichomes are at with it

u/mgrosvenor · 2 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

The nifty fifty is a $100 50mm prime. It probably the best bag for buck lens you can buy and an absolute must have.

If I were you, I'd put the 50mm on one camera and a zoom on the other and never change that setup.

u/Aperson3334 · 2 pointsr/photography

Besides the closer minimum focal distance, is there any reason to buy this lens over this one?

u/Griffith · 2 pointsr/Cameras

First of all I'm going to start by saying that these cameras have different sensor sizes, namely APS-C, Micro Four Thirds and 1inch sizes. There are advantages and disadvantages to either ones but In general these are the main characteristics:

APS-C sensors - medium to large-sized lenses, slightly long minimal focusing distance (around 0.5m with a normal focal range lens), shallower depth-of-field (more blurred backgrounds in pictures)

Micro Four Thirds sensors - small sized lenses, very short minimal focusing distances (20/30cm with normal focal range lenses), more depth-of-field than ASP-C (less blurred backgrounds in pictures)

(I'll talk about the 1inch sensor further below)

There are other differences that vary on a camera by camera basis but those are the most important things for you to keep in mind. I will mention for each of the examples you gave the sensor size and some of the characteristics of each camera system as briefly as I can.

> Canon 750DKIS 24MP Digital SLR Camera (with 18-55mm IS STM Lens $764


> Canon EOS 700D 18MP Digital SLR Camera (Twin IS Lens Kit) 18-55mm STM & 55-250mm STM Twin Lens K $849

APS-C sensor cameras - both of them will offer relatively similar performance. The 700D deal with two lenses is a nice one, but it's only useful if you like to shoot telephoto pictures (pictures of things that are very far away from you). I would prefer to get the 750 because the sensor is slightly better and it has wireless, so it is a bit more future-proof and better performing. For the price difference between the 750D and the 700D you could buy one of the many budget lenses for the system that offer surprisingly good results. I recommend the Canon 50mm f1.8 which will give you very beautiful results with shallow depth of field:

Olympus OM-D E-M10 MKII Compact System Camera with 14-42mm EZ Lens 764

Micro Four Thirds - a very small but well-performing camera that is just an all-round good package. It has better image stabilization than the Canon built into the body. What that means is that for most situations you practically don't need a tripod. If you want a camera that is capable of giving you very good image quality but still be small and compact enough to carry around without much hassle, this is a good option. Most of the lens options aren't as cheap as the ones for the Canon systems, however Sigma makes a few lenses that are very affordable and high quality so I recommend checking those out if you are on a tight budget.

> CameraPro FUJIFILM X-T10 Mirrorless Compact System Camera Silver Body Only $597 ($797, Cashback $200) - Do I need to buy a lens still?

APS-C sensor camera - Yes you will need to buy a lens for it. Fuji cameras tend to be slightly more expensive than other cameras that compete with theirs but in terms of "raw" specifications they fall behind in some aspects. Video recording on most Fuji cameras is very poor. Even so, people that shoot phtoos with Fuji cameras love it because they usually have great ways to operate the camera that make them very enjoyable to use and most importantly, I'd argue that they offer the best images out of all APS-C cameras without tweaking them. In the long-run I think Fuji would be the most expensive choice but it would also deliver the most pleasant results. If you want a lens recommendation to start off with I suggest the Fuji 35mm f2.0 . Although Fuji is expensive, it is the camera system I mostly appreciate at the moment, and the one I'd like to own in the future due to its lens selection which offers a lot of very high quality glass and the absolutely gorgeous image quality. Another note is that Fuji's lenses tend to be some of the smallest ones in APS-C lens systems.

Sony Cybershop RX100 or RX100 II? (599 vs 795) -

1inch sensor (the smallest, meaning more depth of field) - these cameras are very compact and actually small enough to be pocketable but they are also the most limited in terms of performance, particularly low light. When I compared an RX100 to my Olympus which has the same sensor as the E-M10 camera you linked, it didn't perform as well in low light both in terms of focusing speed and image quality but in outdoors with decent lighting you can get really excellent results. In my opinion the RX100 is the perfect "secondary camera" if you own an APS-C camera but don't always want to carry around with you, but if you end up going with a Micro Four Thirds camera you don't have as big of a need for a secondary smaller camera.

I hope this is helpful to you, I know it's a long post but I tried to make it as short as I could without entering into small minutia. Let me know if you have any further questions.

u/avlarios · 2 pointsr/Photography_Gear

This 50mm is always a good buy

It's one of the first lenses I bought when I first started. And its cheap.

A wide angle prime lens would be a good choice too, if you're looking to get more landscape in your photos while out on your hikes!

u/notsamharper · 2 pointsr/BurningMan
  • Find a used Canon T3i, T5i or something similar
  • Get a canon 50mm f/1.8 lens (doesn't zoom, so it won't suck dust into the lens). Solid quality, cheap, can take great portrait style photos if you want to get artsier.
  • Take 10 minutes to google "aperture" before you with the camera a bit.
  • Leave it in AV mode (aperture priority). Then you don't have to play with the settings but can get some killer photos.
u/OPisTheBoss · 2 pointsr/photomarket

The 50mm f1.8 is great for this. They're $125 on Amazon, but you can find the older version (still good, what I have) for less than $100.

u/apileofhobbies · 2 pointsr/boudoir

Let me know if this doesn't belong here

So I get asked what camera or gear people should get to start out.

My usual answer is this: anything. The camera itself won't help you with your rules or techniques. You have to develope your eye for that.

The main difference between an expensive camera and a cheap one is image quality and flexibility with your settings

I have a lot more on this but I'll leave it with that for now. I'm sure people will chime in below

This photo was taken with a 5ish year old crop sensor camera. And a $140 lens

Canon EOS Rebel T3i Digital SLR Camera Body Only (discontinued by manufacturer)

Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 STM Lens

u/Dotjiff · 2 pointsr/photography

First budget lens anyone should buy is the "nifty fifty" (Canon 50mm 1.8) as most people find the 50mm focal length to be the most versatile prime. It's also less than half the price of the lenses you are referring to and a great performer. I own the Canon L series 85mm and 24-70mm, which are top of the line, and the 50mm still holds its own among those in terms of performance. It is very lightweight and portable as well.

People who use multiple DSLRS love the 50mm as well as a video lens because of its price, focal length, and performance. Highly suggest you check it out.

u/perpterds · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

So, I didn't see the post I originally found, so you might need to do some google research. I can't speak to the quality of anything honestly, as I've no experience with them, myself.

Anyhow, I did also find the Amazon listings:

Body only, no lens, $999.00 US

Body + Kit lens 18mm-135mm (it's a pretty solid zoom), $1399.00 US

Canon 50mm f/1.8 STM lens
This is possibly *the* best lens you can get below $400-$500, especially in terms of sharpness. It's what I used for that photo linked above, and it's nearly the only lens I use (despite having about 4 other lenses). And it's only $125. I recommend this even higher than the 80D itself, if you get *any* Canon.

u/TheRealMattyPanda · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Using DSLRs as a example.

A Canon 6D is 20.2 megapixels.

To that you can use a Canon 50mm lens for $125 or you could use a Zeiss 50mm lens for $615, both are still going into 20.2MP sensor.

Or, that Canon 6D is $999 before you get a lens, or you could get this Canon Powershot point and shoot for $209. Both are 20.2MP, but one's definitely takes a hell of a lot better pictures than the other.

u/HollieBB · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Yup I'm using it as a webcam for streaming. I currently have this lens but I want to upgrade to one a bit better eventually. Just haven't bit the bullet yet.

My cam runs on an adapter so it's not reliant on battery life. I've done 24 hour marathon streams without issue.

u/alexanderreel · 2 pointsr/videography

Check this up my wish list amazon link canon lens

u/bastiano-precioso · 2 pointsr/photography

Okay, here is a better list, sorry for the mess:

Flash -- around $65.

Transmitter --around $35

Light stand + umbrella + flash bracket // around $30. I got this one used for $20 on Amazon. There are different ones and with different quality.

Canon 24mm f/2.8 -- around $150

Canon 50mm f/1.8 -- around $110.

Also, Yongnuo makes their version of the 50mm ($50), the 35mm ($88) and some others. I can only vouch for the 50mm, I either got a great copy or it is just great.

u/jessemaner · 2 pointsr/photography

What is the reason for price difference between these two lenses
Lens 1 & Lens 2

u/trolllante · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

O wouldn’t sell your lens kit, instead I would buy a 50mm 1.8f . Not only they are great for portrait but they work good during night.

u/kirinlemons · 2 pointsr/CameraLenses

??? I have these lens and it widens my face:

u/jbeer · 2 pointsr/flying

Just buy the Nifty Fifty - You can't afford not to own it! 1.8mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

u/n1ywb · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

that's awesome, DSLR has really come a long way. I'm impressed that the stock lens performs so well such low light but I suppose that's also saying something about the sensor. I stopped using my DSLR after the lens AF died, but now I kind of want to get a really fast lens specifically for tank shots

what would be uber cool for a small tank would be to shoot it with a light-field camera so you can refocus the image :)

u/unrealkoala · 2 pointsr/photography

Canon 77D is $750 refurbished. 50 mm f/1.8 STM is $125 brand new and you can grab that dreamy bokeh that every new photographer wants. A Tokina 11-16 f/2.8 (version 1 is fine) is probably $300, no more than $350 and that should be great for your landscapes.

u/alkaiser702 · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

I played with something similar to this for an old job. They're pretty cool but not quite as good as a regular microscope.

I was able to see all of the tiny security features on my driver's license like microscopic letters on the ridges of mountains.

u/Guns_and_Dank · 2 pointsr/microgrowery
u/jp2188 · 2 pointsr/coins

A while back a user mentioned this one and his pictures where awesome! Not sure about video though.

u/Thalenia · 2 pointsr/coins

It's a bit tough to work with, the neck makes it a bit tough to get close easily, but it is doable. I've done a bit of hacking on it and added a different base to hopefully make it a bit easier to use, but I'm still fighting with those so no real recommendations there.

u/DrHorns · 2 pointsr/Minoxbeards

Sure! here it is

u/hamburger_time86 · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

if you got 35 bucks, grab this it's fun as shit and hi res

u/LitLikeABird · 2 pointsr/trees

It's just a cheap little guy from Amazon. I love playing around with it, though. Here's a very small album of other stuff I've looked at so far:

u/nosystemsgo · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Another guy posted a macro shot of a leaf a while back, I don't remember the name of the thread, but it had a picture of a spider mite running around. He used this one. It's probably better than the ones on ebay for 10 USD.

u/wildabeast861 · 2 pointsr/coins
u/HappyGoLuckyComputer · 2 pointsr/GrowingMarijuana

I'm happy using this one. Plugs into a usb port and takes up to 200x photos and videos.
I also use it to view compost tea microbes, so I know my brew is alive and correct. Plus viewing springtails under a scope is super cool looking.

Plugable USB 2.0 Digital...

u/CubriksRube · 2 pointsr/CRH

This is the one a lot of people on Reddit tend towards. It's not perfect, but it's pretty good for the price!

u/hardonchairs · 2 pointsr/Cameras

Or this macro lens and a cheap used Canon DSLR

1:1 reproduction basically means that it can focus close enough to see something the size of the sensor at the resolution of the sensor. So say hypothetically the sensor had 10 micrometer sized pixels, with this lens you could resolve down to 10 micrometers with whatever you're shooting.

u/tarponator · 2 pointsr/Autoflowers

I have that $10 phone clip on microscope that you see a lot of on amazon. It actually works well. Shows amber. have a nice phone screen is so much better than a loupe - just need to steady your hand. its not really a digital microscope. Its just a 60x lens that you put in front of your phone cam lens and you use your phone to zoom in. it gives me the best view of trichomes out of all the devices I have, including an old lab grade ziess microscope. and the LED light does not mask out amber.

This is the one that causes me issues. going to send it back. And it has built in zoom and is a true digital scope.

u/newpatientadvisepls · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

I did some searching last week to find the answer to the same question. I used this digital microscope:

I had a little difficulty getting clear pictures at first because it was pretty much impossible to prop the camera in the right position using the provided stand - there's really nowhere to rest a plastic base like that above a plant. Also, the camera is by default in 640x480 resolution and the picture quality was crap, but when I turned it up to the max of 1600x1200 there were severe image wobble issues from any movement whatsoever due to the camera using progressive scan. I grabbed my old camera tripod (a Quantaray QSX 9002TM) and found that by unscrewing the male fitting from the detachable baseplate, I could screw the bottom of the flexible camera arm into the baseplate and have a tripod mounted digital microscope, which worked perfectly. I just brought my laptop into my grow room and used the app supplied with the camera and the "take photo" button on the back of the camera to take those pictures.

u/jb0356 · 2 pointsr/Silverbugs
u/psychokitty · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Leaf irregularities, blistering, severely stunted top growth: could be broad mites. Get one of these and scope the undersides of the leaves:

If scoping confirms that broad mites or russets are present, then spray every 3 days with horticultural oil at the rate of 2 tablespoons per gallon of water, for at least 2-3 weeks. Then monitor for resurgence for the rest of the grow.

u/Cuttt3r · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Absolutely! And thank you. :)

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android

u/FunkadelicRock · 2 pointsr/MephHeads

Same, I had a 60x joulers loupe but it never felt right, so i picked up one of these

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android

Have taken some awesome pics with it, plugs in to your phone too

u/Zee-J · 2 pointsr/macro

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android Linux

u/tourthevoid · 2 pointsr/hempflowers

$20 on Amazon. I wish the MP was higher though - I guess I can’t really complain for 20 bucks ha

u/JLoosifer · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification Endoscope, 8 LED USB 2.0 Digital Microscope, Mini Camera with OTG Adapter and Metal Stand, Compatible with Mac Window 7 8 10 Android Linux

I have it, works great.

u/rsenio · 2 pointsr/microgrowery
u/kingsleysdreams · 2 pointsr/popping

Jiusion 40 to 1000x Magnification... 1000x!

u/TThor · 2 pointsr/photography

Personally the obvious entry-level lens after the kit 18-55mm lens is to pair it with something like a 55-200mm lens. That way you will have most of your necessary range covered, all the way from 18mm ultra-wide to 200mm telephoto. These basic lenses aren't anything too special, but they are surprisingly solid for their cheap price.

-Here is a basic 55-200mm; if you want something with more reach such as for wildlife photography, here is a basic 55-300mm. If you believe that you might someday upgrade to a fullframe camera^([>$1500 at the cheapest]), and want a lens that can upgrade with you, here is an FX 70-300mm. All three of these lenses have vibration reduction, which reduces shake from say your hands.-

After a wide-angle zoom lens and a telephoto zoom lens, the next obvious choice for a budding photographer on a budget I would say is either a 35mm prime or a 50mm prime. as I said previously, both of these lenses are close to the focal range of the human eye, making them good choices for general purpose photography. And when compared to say your 18-55mm kit lens, both of these primes will be far faster and sharper at their given focal length, with a small depth of field that is very fun to play with (here is an example of what a small depth of field can look like).

-Here is a 35mm f1.8 [DX]; here is a 50mm f1.8 [FX]. Both are roughly the same price, both are roughly similar focal lengths; choose the 35mm if you prefer to get closer to your subject, choose the 50mm if you prefer to have a little more reach. (also, the 50mm is an FX and cheap, so if upgrading in the future was something you wanted, it would be the better choice. There is an FX 35mm nikon lens also, but it costs over double the price.)-

So to summarize, a solid starter set of lenses would be an 18-55mm, a 55-200mm(or something similar), and a good general purpose prime lens such as either the 35mm or the 50mm. Any lenses after that will depend widely on your given needs and desires.

u/waterlooalex · 2 pointsr/photography

Buy a fast lens like the 35mm f/1.8 lens, and shoot at f/1.8 instead f/5.3, thats a difference of 3 stops, which means you could have achieved the same shutter speed at ISO 400 instead of using ISO 3200.

u/moker · 2 pointsr/photography

I just got my 35mm f1.8 lens in the mail yesterday for my new D7000, and I have to say I love it. The narrow DOF you can get with it is pretty amazing.

I really want to get a flash next, but I am torn between buying an SB600 and saving up for an SB900. The SB700 is also in the process of being rolled out, and sounds like a nice compromise, but half way between the 600 and the 900.

I have been also considering getting a 50mm f1.8, but some of the comments here make it sound like it's not worth it.

Oh, and I really want to get a circular polarizing filter for my 18-200mm lens - I take a lot of pictures of fish in ponds/lakes/rivers, and that would be quite handy.

[edit: corrected f1.7 to f1.8]

u/thelryan · 2 pointsr/Photography101

I'd recommend you this body with this lens. Nikon D3100 is a great starter camera, I used it for years and it's where I developed myself in portraits, landscape, and video like you were hoping to.

This lens is an excellent, versatile lens that'll give you crisp focus with a shallow depth of field for nice portraits and video footage.

u/rhcpxc · 2 pointsr/photography

Nikon D5000... here is a comparison between the D3000 and D5000 in terms of technical performance:

(Note: Copy/paste the link, I don't know HTML tags to make it work in the comments)

I have the D3000 because I didn't have much money at the time, but now I wish I had gone with a camera with better ISO performance. It really doesn't take much time to read up on aperture, shutter speed, depth of field, exposure, white balance, etc. You'll be glad you got a better camera once you expand your knowledge of photography, and you won't feel like you want to upgrade so soon.

After that, I got the 35mm 1.8 lens:
It is a great walk-around lens, very sharp/fast, and can cover a variety of situations. It augments your kit lens well, and enables you to photograph in dim/poor lighting conditions.

u/badjoke33 · 2 pointsr/photography

The 35mm 1.8G + 18-200mm VR will pretty much cover 90% of most people's needs. That's my plan, at least.

u/bigdaveyj · 2 pointsr/photography

That's really good, but you don't even need that! All you need is curtains, a reflector (Could just use aluminum foil) and a camera with the kit 18-55 lens. Then you can buy a reversal ring and it can turn the kit lens into a macro lens. You can get a Nikon D40 (cheap) and get the reversal ring (this) and it should do the trick for you.

Lots of food photography is done with a macro lens and natural lighting. If you google it, you can find a lot more information for it. If you want to go a step further, you can also get this: for even more DoF

u/constipated_HELP · 2 pointsr/photography

I don't know if this link will work:

If not, search d70, go to used. There's one for $136 that's fulfilled by amazon (meaning you can use your card and it will come in 2 days for free).

That and this and you're in business.

u/Sluisifer · 2 pointsr/Cameras

Get an intro-level DSLR from Nikon (D3200) or Canon (T3) and you'll be fine. The 18-55mm kit lenses are good; you can spend more money to get a longer zoom range, but 1) most people don't need it all and 2) they're bigger and heavier. The 18-55 is perfect for general use. Seriously, these intro cameras are fantastic and you'll love them for family shooting.

I'd also recommend you get one prime (fixed focal length, i.e. not a zoom) lens for low light. For Nikon, get the 35mm f/1.8, or Canon 35mm f/2. These are small, light lenses with a focal length that's perfect for general use. Best of all, they have much faster maximum apertures (they let more light in) for use in low-light conditions. You'll really appreciate this for indoor shooting. In fact, you could use these and completely forgo the kit zoom lens if you like, though most people like the zoom.

Most importantly, you'll need to know a little about how to use them. Just google "how to use dslr" and you'll see loads of articles on that. Modern cameras are great for 'set it and forget it' exposure, so you really don't even need to know how shutter speed, aperture, and ISO work (though it really helps if you do for some shooting). Just set the camera to "P" and go to town. It's probably more important to learn how to use the autofocus system. Namely, learn how to half-depress the shutter so the camera focuses, and then fully depress it to take the shot. If you do this, there will be no 'shutter lag' and you'll have great control over your shots. Most people know this from using a point-and-shoot, but not everyone.

u/skeeterou · 2 pointsr/photography

I would go with the 35mm 1.8, the 50mm 1.8 or the 85mm 1.8 , and the 105mm 2.8 to get a nice range of semi-wide to telephoto.

u/GeoffPortnoy · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

Would getting a Nikon lens/adapter be a good idea as apposed to settling for a wider focus? This is what I'm looking at:



u/anonymoooooooose · 2 pointsr/photography
u/Maydo87 · 2 pointsr/photography

Well if it is NOT a full frame lens then you don't apply the crop factor.. in other words, if it says "DX" on it, then it IS a 35mm on your camera not a "50-55" (52.5 actually)

The (x 1.5) crop factor would only be applied if you were using a full frame lens (nikon brand full frame lenses are marked "FX")

Some quick notes each type of lens in relation to your camera:

DX lenses: fit your camera with no crop factor involved, are lighter and less expensive

FX lenses: are designed for cameras with full frame sensors therefor a crop factor of x 1.5 is applied making the effective focal length longer, generally higher quality lenses, they are also usually heavier and larger, better coatings on lenses more likely to have better weather sealing, can be used with new camera if you decide to upgrade to a full frame body.

For what you're talking about landscape and nature without switching lenses I'd say 35mm is a pretty good focal length.. you may find yourself wishing you had something just a little wider for the landscapes.. 24mm or lower would be more ideal for that in my opinion.. you could also look into getting a zoom lens if you really didn't want to switch lenses at all.

u/phooton · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

The wife did not want me to buy this camera, so it is still in hiding. I have not been able to use it that much as a result, but the pictures I have taken so far have mostly been with this lens:

Regardless of the lens, my advice is read up / google your way to being knowledgeable with photography. Stuff like depth of field, exposure & the exposure triangle, and composition are probably the most important, but keep in mind I am not a professional by any means.

I remember reading that you should not buy another lens until you have mastered the ones you currently own, so that is good advice too I think.

u/scienceblowsmymind · 2 pointsr/photography

Newbie here! I'm ready to get into photography and am probably going to get the Nikon D5300 with the standard 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 lens. I'd like a second lens and my budget is 200ish - I'm okay with used ones and I'm okay waiting to save more money to up my budget.

I want to be able to photograph the night sky and the northern lights and I've read that there are slightly different recommendations for each. (I'll also like to use the camera for travel and landscapes and whatnot.) [This page] ( has a nice table toward the bottom for night sky photography and made me consider this 35mm f/1.8 lens. And I read on Dave Morrow's site that a wide angle f/2.4-4 is preferable for the northern lights. My understanding is that the standard lens fits this suggestion. I couldn't find a prime lens within my budget that fits that range.

Should I get the lens I linked above? Should I wait until I actually get the camera and have a better sense of what things are?


u/Bester2001 · 2 pointsr/Cameras

One word Awesom. A great deal thr Nikon D7000 is one of the best DSLRs on the market even with the 7100 just out now there are benefits to the 7100 and the newer Canon 70D (most notably being improved HD Video capabilities and improved auto focus) but for a first time DSLR purchase at that price it's hard to beat. If you can afford another lenses get this a $200 35mm 1.8 apature lense : it is a Fast wide angle lens perfect for portraits and general purpose shooting esp if you want that cool blurry background look and great low light pictures. And build up from there with a good 600-800$ with VR also known as image stabilization.

u/SgtKashim · 2 pointsr/guns

Damn... my camera back is an extremely generic looking black backpack.
Maybe I need some lens panniers or something.

Good point about the backstop... I hadn't really thought about that. It holds in any public place, really, but a crowd situation is somewhat worse, just by density. That and most SD situations you'll be somewhat more alone than in a large crowd.

Anyway, if I see the cops whoopin your ass, I'll make sure to publish the photos. :F

u/XenroHachi · 2 pointsr/oculus

Right now im using one of my spare camera bags:

Took out most of the inserts and i leave the Rift connected to my PC and put the HMD inside, zip it enough so that only the cable is coming out. I got this bag for free awhile ago and there may be similar/cheaper bags.

I keep my Rift in a closed off room but the cat sometimes goes in while my GF or I are playing normal games, so at least itll protect it from dust and if the cat decides to pounce on the bag. I tried putting it in the case it came with once but i didnt like that it couldnt close with the cable coming out still.

u/Fiishman · 2 pointsr/photomarket
u/AsleepConstruction · 2 pointsr/Cameras

check out this amazon basic, I have the same bag and it worked pretty well before we moved to the peak design. I remember seeing a 3rd party one where it had an orange interior which I recommend, easier to see everything, since most camera gear is black.

u/Halo6819 · 2 pointsr/videography

Just starting out so the Amazon Basic backpack. Its less then $30 and its pretty awesome, you can adjust the compartments easily and it fits all the gear that i currently have

u/Goliath89 · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

I'll save you some time and link directly to the product in question.

I'm currently using one of these myself, and it's pretty good. If I take out all the velcro padding, I can fit all six of my Legion Hoard Plus deck boxes, but it's a pretty snug fit. With the straps, I can fit four of them, as well as two Ultra Pro Pro-Dual deckboxes. (Not a plug for those items or anything, just offering them up for scale.) It has a few side straps over a pocket on the side (meant to hold a camera tripod) that you can use for a playmat, but only if you don't plan on using one of those plastic carry tubes.

u/toin9898 · 2 pointsr/WeddingPhotography

I’ve got the one without the laptop pocket, with the black interior. It’s surprisingly really well structured and I’ve worn it to lifestyle sessions where I’ve been sprinting chasing around 5 year olds at a park and it’s still comfortable (With the cross body straps fastened)

It’s on the small side, but I’m 5’2 so that’s exactly what I need. It doesn’t feel cheap at all. I’ve paid more than triple for worse quality backpacks. I fit four lenses (35L/50 f1.4/135L primes and a small zoom), two bodies and a speedlite in there plus all the accessories that go with that.

AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR/DSLR Cameras and Accessories - Black

u/Bryanfisto · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

Professor recommends the AmazonBasics camera backpack, giving it an A rating for carrying deck boxes. I don't know how well those deck boxes will fit in that bag, but it's probably worth a shot.

u/air_indoor · 2 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

For the price, and the fact Im just starting out, you cant beat the Amazon Basics DSLR Backpack. Quality and design have held up great for me.

AmazonBasics Backpack for SLR/DSLR Cameras and Accessories - Black

u/_windfish_ · 2 pointsr/magicTCG

So for anyone looking around for a good bag to carry 10-15 deckboxes, playmat, binder, notepad, dice, other accessories. Look for a camera backpack. Often they have them at thrift stores/Goodwill for $5-10 or less. They have foam dividers and sections on the inside that are perfect for deckboxes. Look for one with a side pocket meant for a tripod - this is perfect for a playmat tube.

The one I use is a Manfrotto almost identical to their Adventure bag but I got it from Costco for $40 and I love it, but I don't think they sell it anymore.

A lot of people swear by the Amazon Basics camera backpack.

u/mt61286 · 2 pointsr/photography

I use Amazon Basic's camera backpack to store 90% of my camera gear. I usually put it in my car in the morning, just in case I need it.

I also often use a waterproof backpack with a padded insert for day hiking and stuff.

u/ronakg · 2 pointsr/photography

I keep all my equipment in AmazonBasics backpack. That's my K-5 IIs, 2 zoom and 1 prime lens, Raynox 250 macro adapter, battery charger, few SD cards and cleaning kit. I may take out some or the other item depending on the trip.

While on the move, I use Fotasy Sling Neck Strap. I find it very comfortable and convenient to use.

u/SC-Viper · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography
  • I'm probably posting a cliche photography gift here but I absolutely love mine: Lens Mug

  • Can't go wrong with a BlackRapid Strap

  • If your brother takes a lot of landscapes and doesn't already have this must have tool in his gear which he should: Camera Remote Timer

  • If he's always on the go and seems struggle w/ carrying his tripod everywhere, I recommend getting him a Gorilla Pod

  • If he doesn't already have a great backpack for travelling while he is shooting his landscapes, I recommend Amazons Backpack for holding his gear. It's essentially a generic version of Canon's basic backpack.

    You can also find some fairly cheap "like new" film cameras on Craigslist along with some film.
    Film cameras are the best and it will probably be very nostalgic to the person you are gifting it to.

    I'm making the assumption that he has a Canon DSLR but you can find most of this gear if he has something like a Nikon, Sony, etc... One thing I love to receive to as a photography gift is more batteries! I use to shoot a lot of landscapes and I could never have enough of these.

    Anyways, hopefully you find something for your brother! Good luck!
u/hazard2k · 2 pointsr/photography
u/Rogerwilco1974 · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers


I own a 600D, and I love it, so the camera is great. The kit that comes with it? Meh, it's ok. You've got the standard kit lens, so that's nothing special, and a bunch of lens cleaning bits which isn't anything special.

I doubt the wrist strap will get a lot of use. The desktop mini tripod thing? Handy if you're going to make a load of Youtube vlogs, but probably not if you want to make films seriously, like you say. You'd be better off going for a proper tripod with a nice pseudo-fluid head designed for video, not stills, so you can do smooth camera pans.

As far as the monopod goes, I've never used one, but they're more suited to stills photography, I feel. I don't think they'd be a lot more stable than just being hand-held.

The car charger is a nice idea, if you're going to be out a lot, but I bought an aftermarket battery grip from Amazon that came with 4 batteries, and lasts for ever!

The 32GB card is a great size, but is it going to be an unknown make of card that isn't fast enough to record a long video recording? I've not shot a lot of video on mine, but I've got 16GB Class 4 Sandisk cards, and I sometimes get the graphic on my monitor of the camera's internal buffer filling up, and have occasionally have recording stop on me, so you've got to have good, fast cards.

You do want a nice backpack, but it needs to be roomy enough to allow for some other lenses, and it's impossible to tell if that bag is big enough. I got one, again from Amazon, that is pretty good, and accommodates all my spare batteries, my 3 lenses (kit, 50mm & 70-300mm), my filters, mics, cleaning kit and cables and is well padded and pretty sturdy.

The filters pack might be nice, depending on what's included. It looks like a clear UV which is really only a lens front element protector, a fluorescent filter, and a neutral density filter, which is good if you're filming in bright conditions but want your iris wide open. Also, they'll only fit your kit lens. If WHEN you expand your lens collection, those won't fit it. Your best bet is a kit like this that allows you to put the same set of filters on to a range of different lenses..

What else? Oh, the telephoto lenses...Hmmm... I'd question how useful they are. It looks like those screw on to the front of your existing lens. It's my experience that those things give you a pretty soft picture. You might like that, but you'd be better off getting a proper telephoto lens.

I think that's it. Wow... I've not be very kind about that package, have I? If the price of that kit is the same as buying the camera on it's own, then you're not losing anything. You DO need a bag, a cleaning kit and spare batteries, so that's all fine.

But lenses & filters are things that you should only acquire when you realise you need them. The kit lens will be a nice start for you, if you're new to photography/filming. I VERY quickly found that I needed a zoom lens, so bought a cheapy Tamron 70-300mm for under a hundred quid that I like very much, as well as the famous Nifty Fifty mm f1.8 prime that gives me a great shallow depth of field, and is my favourite lens!

I hope this has been helpful!

u/bracomadar · 2 pointsr/photography

I have the T3 and if she is starting out on DSLRs and just want to shoot portraits in well lit areas, I'd say it's a great starter camera. You get a basic DSLR for really cheap. However, I like to shoot wildlife. While I can often take some good shots with the T3, there are times where I really wish I could pump up the ISO without a lot of noise and it had more AF points for tracking. I try to not take it above 400 ISO. If yall have kids and want to shoot sports, you might run into similar problems I have with wildlife sometime. I personally haven't tried shooting sports with it, but you might be trying to follow fast moving players (maybe at a night game) and that could cause some frustration. There's also been times when I really wish I had a flip out LCD screen.

I think what a lot of people fail to realize when buying a new camera is all the starter gear that you'll want/need. You'll want a backpack, or case to store the camera and lenses. This is the backpack I got. I really like it and it's cheap. I haven't taken it out in the field much and just use it mainly for storage at home, or in the car. She'll want a few lenses. You'll need a cleaning kit. She'll also eventually want a tripod, flashes, filters. This stuff, especially the lenses, tripod, and flashes will run you into the hundreds of dollars. It will also probably be the longer investment than the camera.

It might sound strange, but I would suggest you figure what all that other stuff will cost you and figure out how much you have left to spend on the camera body. If you're just starting out and don't have thousands of dollars to spend, the T3 is still a good camera to start out on and learn the basics. If after figuring the cost of lenses and other things and you find you have enough to spend on the T3i, or some better model, I say get her that. You don't have to necessarily get her the lenses and could just get her the T3 kit that comes with the 18-55 lens and a camera backpack just to start her out. I'm just saying that you should put some money aside so she can get a few good lenses and gear and not spend all you can afford on just a camera.

u/FoosYou · 2 pointsr/gopro
u/x5titch · 2 pointsr/photography

Hey there!

I currently have this right now.

In the main compartment I can fit my Nikon 3200 with a lens on it, as well as some spare lens (70-300, fisheye, 55-200) as well as a few spare things for my GoPro.

In the pockets on the front I have an o ring light and all the adapters for it.

There is still a zipper on the front I keep random stuff in.

And it had a Velcro spot on the side for your tripod :)

u/frappypants · 2 pointsr/SexToys

Try a camera bag. They have movable Velcro dividers, so you can organize the toys however you want, and access them all at once instead of fishing around. Plus, it blends in perfectly with any other luggage.

u/GuerrillaApe · 2 pointsr/wiiu

I don't have it yet because I just purchased it, but I will be using this AmazonBasic bag. You are able to adjust the dividers in the bag, so you can have a main section for the console/gamepad and one for controllers. You can then store the cables and games in the pockets.

u/cwcoleman · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

Okay... I think we are getting closer to helping you define your requirements...

All your camping gear will be in a separate bag.
You need a bag to carry 2 big cameras, 3 big lenses, 2 big hard drives, extra batteries, and a gopro.

What do you estimate a bag this size would be in liters? 20 liters?
What do you estimate this kit to weigh? 20 pounds?

You plan to strap this extra gear bag to your chest? Carrying in at the same time as your camping gear bag? Then switch to wearing it on your back for your day trips?

Any special features you desire? Does it need to be waterproof? What about padding?

Do you have any bags that you've researched / considered? Do you have a bag now that holds / carries all this stuff? A starting point or frame of reference would help.

Would a bag like this do the job?

u/Royalhghnss · 2 pointsr/drones
u/icefreez · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

Another recommendation is the amazon basics pack.

It has a configurable inside padding. I can fit my Taranis in it, some repair tools, 10 - 15 batteries, and a small 10" laptop, and tie my quad on the outside.

u/AcrylicStudios · 2 pointsr/cinematography

Usually if you tap in the lower left corner of the video on the YouTube logo, it’ll open YouTube. But here’s a link to the light: NEEWER 160 LED

u/kosherbacon · 2 pointsr/videography

I've been using these Neewer CN-160 LEDs recently, and they're quite impressive for the price! Runs on AA or Sony NP batteries. I have mostly used them indoors - they're probably no match for direct sunlight, but should be able to do something in the shade.

u/demb3k · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

It's not, I promise.

LED flashlight for your actor - $8
Basic bouncecard to bounce the flashlight light into your actors face - $13
LED battery powered light to illuminate your foreground or background - $44, including a battery and charger

There you go. Basic lights for a basic forest scene for $65. Add 1/2 CTB gel to your LED light to simulate some moonlight. It can absolutely be done, just get creative.

u/grandmasneighbor · 2 pointsr/videography

mine's an early kickstarter model. generally having more light gives better hi-speed results but the camera's surprisingly sensitive - some of the shots were done with a few 900lux led lights i got off amazon. not much processing for daytime shots, mostly just balancing levels to bring out details in blacks and boosting saturation, nighttime takes a bit more caressing but nothing too taxing...

u/TW0R · 2 pointsr/shootingcars

Buy one of THESE, then run around the bike doing a long exposure. It's called lightpainting.

u/micahi21 · 2 pointsr/classicalguitar

Mine just showed up today! I'm excited to try it out.

Have you considered some of those portable LED floodlamps? They only cost about $50 bucks and one of my photographer friends swears by them.

I think this is the model he uses:

u/WGeorgeCook · 2 pointsr/photography

Lighting is super important, but don't forget about sound! People are much more likely to forgive a terrible image than they are sound.

The sensor in the t3i is the same as the t2i (but not the t1i, which can only do 20fps 1080). So if you can find a t2i for cheaper, do that. For lighting, you can get some pretty cheap but highly effective LED panels (see [here] ( that will allow you to buy some decent audio equipment.

u/patchlingzoon · 2 pointsr/videography

I'd honestly still go to the pros for this one, or at least cheap ambitious student film makers. Local high schoolers even. As a working freelancer/producer, I've had inquiries for "DIY"/mobile studios for clients to setup up themselves and they've botched every single one of them.

If your clients are seriously that hellbent on saving costs and time, then I like Hybrid's suggestions for tech. On top of that, I would add an LED panel for keylighting and this handy tutorial by Realm Pictures for setup.

But honestly, from my experience, this much knowledge/tech will baffle the non-savvy so really feel your way out on this and try to steer them towards finding help. Hopefully a solution is found! GL!

u/legendofzac · 2 pointsr/videography

I would ask for gift cards, i.e. Amazon and B&H, or money. You can save these up and get nicer equipment or build your own rigs. But a nice Tripod can make a huge difference. But honestly, it all depends on what you film. Such as me, I often shoot on locations so lenses with a faster aperture do more than a set of studio lights. Here are my recommendations for basic stuff to ask for Christmas:

CN-160 LEDs - about $30 ( and of course some NP-F970 Batteries go along well for about another $22 (

Extra batteries - The off-brand batteries work well. I have two and they are great

Extra Memory Cards - I highly reccommend Lexar as my SanDisks don't work insanely well anymore.

Stabilizer Rigs - The Mantis Rig Is A Great Rig for everything (especially starting) and is only $33 ( Or if you want to get a glidecam-style I suggest the Laing P-4S stabilizer which is like $275 and includes a bag and weights (

And My Best Piece of Lighting Equipment - A Reflector which you can get for like $20. ( There's plenty of different sizes, too.

u/zo34 · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

So, just from some googling it looks like you could get some decent, dimmable panels for well within your budget.

Here, here. and here.

Search term: "dimmable battery powered LED panel".

Good shooting!

u/zicowbell · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

No problem dude.

So first off I just want to go against your thought on only using an iPhone until you can get a professional camera. I really do think that you need the DSLR step in between the iPhone and the professional camera for many factors. Even though the app that you are using is very impressive, it still cannot match a DSLR. You even said it yourself, the camera sensor is way too small to use in anything but exceptional light. Secondly being able to tell the story not just the angle you have the camera, but in the lens choice is something that is awesome to do. With a single change in a lens you can make someone who is in an ally look like they are claustrophobic and trapped, to someone being alone in a large amount of space. So using lenses are a huge help in telling the story you want and being able to know that before using a professional camera is huge. I also want to point out one of the big and main differences why someone would want a professional cinematic camera. One of the main reasons is to have the capability to shoot in RAW which allows for awesome post production. I've used RAW many times before and it is awesome to adjust almost every aspect of the shot. Here is the thing though, you almost really don't need that unless you are really going to push the camera in post, or if you are doing a movie. Even without RAW a DSLR or mirrorless camera can achieve professional looking video without breaking the bank. Here a great video on professionals comparing 8bit vs 10bit which is essentially the difference between cinema cameras and mirrorless ( ). This is a very interesting video and really shows how good mirrorless cameras are, and the small gap between the two. I know it's fun to say that you filmed a whole film on an iPhone. I've also used an iPhone and android phones to film really good looking video, but I knew what it can and can't do because I had used dslr and professional cameras. Without the knowledge I had there would've been wild problems that I couldn't fix in post, and even with all of my knowledge I had to change how I did things to get everything right. It was a great experience, but there is a time and place for everything.

Okay not that is out of the way I'll tackle the audio questions you had. So when I said that you can eliminate background noise while recording it wasn't necessarily in a software, rather in what you are doing while filming. The number one thing that you need to do is get the mic as close to the actor as possible. By doing this it eliminates most factors so you can have more flexibility in post. Secondly it is a good idea to have someone dedicated to being the audio engineer. Having to do both is exhausting and results in lukewarm audio and video. Third you need to get an app or some external device that allows for adjusting the gain. There should be multiple apps that can do this, however I would recommend a pre-amp. Here is a link to a great pre-amp . It is a great deal for what it is, but it is still pretty pricey if you don't have much money or much income at all. This is a great tool because it will allow for any audio recorder, phone, or camera to accept xlr, quater inch, and normal aux connections and even providing two. You can also adjust the volume it is putting out so you can more easily adjust on the fly. Getting the right levels is essential for getting good audio in post. The next thing you can do is have some portable sound proofing. There are audio blankets that do a great job, but they are $60 for one. Not to say it isn't worth it, but it's a bit much if it's between getting that and a new mic. So instead I recommend getting a moving blanket. It isn't perfect, but you can get a huge amount of them for cheap and they do almost as good as the audio blanket. The way can use this is to cover up whatever is making the noise if you can. If you can't you can make a wall out of the blankets with light stands, or pretty much whatever you can attach them to. This will not only reduce echos from the actor, but it will also greatly reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic is picking up. Seriously pick up some moving blankets, they are a great tool not just for audio, but you can use them to block out light, and actually move stuff. They are a really awesome tool. So by doing all of this it should reduce the amount of ambient noise that the mic picks up. Also for good shotgun mics, I am not a great resource for this but I do know a few good mics. Here are two that I know are good and that others say good things about. . If you want to know more there are a large amount of articles on good mics for cheap.

Next I just want to quickly mention that you should invest in some lights. No matter what it is a good idea to have them. Here is a link to a great budget light, . It isn't the most exiting thing to buy, but it is well worth your money.

For the acting questions, it is hard to put to words what I experience. It's more of an instinct, and is different in every situation . However I know I would not be happy with that answer, so here is a link to an article that I think has some really good points. . This isn't the guide lines for what you can do, but this is just a starting point for what you can do to direct actors better. There are many articles out there so pick and choose what you want. My only piece of advice that I could find words for is this, make your actors not act. You want them to be the character. So a good way to get this to happen is to have them write a back story for the character, it won't be incorporated in the film, but it will help them shape their decisions on how they act. It is really a great way to have the actor connect with the character. Also just tell the actor what they are doing. Don't be a dick about it, but let them know so they can change it. Don't be vague by saying "do that but happier" because no one really gets that. Instead say something like "Jim while you are saying that line could you have a bit of a smile and have a bit more hop in your step" something like that. That might've not been the best example, but you hopefully get the idea.

Okay I hope that answered all of your questions. Let me know if you have more.

u/coreytenold · 2 pointsr/postprocessing

Maybe a couple of these?

u/n00blebowl · 2 pointsr/climbing

This very well may have been my friends, as we usually extend our sessions after the sun goes down.

We have a couple of these headlamps. Cheap, and super bright. They have a zoom function so you can concentrate the light as needed:

Then we use these as floodlights. Not super durable, but very bright and cheap, and the brightness is adjustable via dial.

Two is enough to light up anything but really big problems. We combine those with the headlamps and have been able to light up things like High Plains Drifter enough to get good video in the middle of the night.

Trust me, this is what you want. Most of the people who have climbed with us end up asking me later what lights we were using so they can buy some for themselves.

u/TheMeiguoren · 2 pointsr/photography

Hi! I know nothing about photography, but my sister is learning and playing around with it, and I wanted to get her some film & accessories for Christmas. She has a Minolta x700 that used to be my mother's. Any pointers on good things to get that would go with that? Thanks!

Edit: Decided to get her an entry-level umbrella lighting kit. Figured she'll get a lot of mileage out of playing with lighting.

u/highvoltorb · 2 pointsr/Flipping

This plus a white wall in my house. Adjust the levels in photoshop.

u/IsaiahNathaniel · 2 pointsr/PrimitiveTechnology

Normal tripod + compatible phone mount.


Tripod Phone Mount

u/liuwenhao · 2 pointsr/photography

What is the best tripod I can get for ~35 USD (or under, preferably)? I had an Amazon Basics tripod that I was using for about a year but it's broken and needs to be replaced. The only requirements are that it is light and not too bulky, as I'll be carrying it around for a month while I'm on a trip.


u/MMfuryroad · 2 pointsr/hometheater

>I just order a i1display pro and the Spears & Munsil UHD benchmarks.

>I don't know why, I thought it would cost alot for the calibration tools.

Unfortunately that's not all you'll need. That disc is a physical media pattern generator not a calibration tool. You'll need software between the actual meter and the pattern generator to view and tweak the results(gamma,greyscale, color manegement).

HCFR is free to download and use but doesn't have a preset workflow that basically just makes the user a button pusher like some of the paid software like Calman does. HCFR also has a built in pattern generator that makes the Spears and Munsil disc more of a double check my results option. Also a good idea to invest in an Amazon basics camera tripod as well to mount the colorimeter to. Also get an extended female to male USB cord as the one attached to the display Pro isn't very long and you'll want it to reach your laptop's USB input from its mounted point a foot or so in front of the screen. Best to do the 2 point grayscale first without gamma and then move on to the 20 point with gamma correction considered to fine tune everything. This is to dial in the white point's luminance. Then if the TV offers access to a color mgmt system you move on to that as well. In my Sony there was no CMS so I stopped at grayscale and gamma. If you're going to pay for software Chromapure offers free point updates and lifetime support as well. No maintenance fees or the like. Actual upgrades to new redesigned software will be offered at a discounted price.

u/not_papa_emeritus · 2 pointsr/lockpicking

I'm unfamiliar with dimple locks myself so I can't help you there, although I'd love to start messing around with one. In terms of videos, if you have a tablet with a decent camera you're pretty much set. Alternatively, you can get a tripod (the Amazon Basics one is good and quite cheap); pretty much any camera that can record decent video; and an external mic, one of those earbud mics, or even one built into a laptop or camera if it's good enough.

Personally I have my camera mounted where I can see the screen to be sure I'm in focus and staying in frame. For audio I have a studio mic on a scissor boom (both super overkill but I had them around) positioned near me, which I record with Audacity. Then editing is just a matter of syncing tracks and cutting out my AV sync at the start and where I stop recording at the end.

u/Mortarbro · 2 pointsr/VisitingIceland

I have this Amazon 50 inch tripod. It's very lightweight and fits right into my jansport backpack. I'm going to iceland in march and bringing this with me. And it's only $17 for the 50 inch.

u/ThePopojijo · 2 pointsr/InsectCollections sells good collecting lights.

I use (the DC version that I have cut the end off and replaced with alligator clips and run it off a boat/car battery (I forget which but they have a handle attached for transport and use a trickle charger to recharge when not in use. If I'm using a generator In use the ac version)

If I'm using a generator this is my preferred light

For a sheet setup cheap $2.00 white bed sheets from Walmart work just fine. My quick go anywhere setup is two shepherd hooks (get ones that thick solid prongs with good welds or they will bent when going into hard ground)

Attach the sheet at all four corners so it won't flap in the wind. Then one laying on the ground in front of the upright sheet as many land on the ground and crawl up

To hold the light I use this tripod (or you can use another shepherd hook)

You will also want a mallet to help get the shepherd hooks in the ground and headlamps to see what has landed on the sheet.

If in North America this is the best Moth book (hands down/no question) and could make another awesome alternative present

u/iserane · 2 pointsr/photography

Despite what the other comment says, it is not ARCA, those plates won't fit.

For most consumer tripods, there are two plate systems that are very common. Arca-Swiss which is used by a ton of brands and has a lot of accessories, all based on a clamp from the sides design. Manfrotto uses a 200PL/RC-2 system for most of their tripods.

Basically everything else, including the one you picked up, uses it's own proprietary mounting. A lot of times it's semi-generic like with yours. This might work too, you basically need it slopped on at least two sides to fit into the hinge side as well as the locking lever size.

This is basically the Amazon branded version of what you have, or similar in Sunpak. Something like this or this would be a substantial step up.

u/darocker098 · 2 pointsr/videos

Amazon link his review is the first one.

u/randemthinking · 2 pointsr/Cameras

I bought a fairly cheap tripod ($25) my first go around and it lasted me all of a couple weeks. It didn't break but its limitations were clear (no ball head, kind of flimsy, legs only had one angle of use). As noted, starting around about $65 you can get a pretty decent one. Above that you're paying for compact size, lighter materials (e.g. carbon fiber), unique features, and general increased usability.

Note: I linked a lot of products, I am not endorsing any of them, nor suggesting they are bad, they are merely examples.

u/provideocreator · 2 pointsr/videography

Simplest will be just to get a Canon Camcorder with SD card for $233.93. That does 1080p video at 60 frames per second. The higher frame rate will make the movement smoother, especially for sports. This is not a situation where you want to use 24 or 30 frames per second like you would see for a normal video, since that causes more motion blur. You can also slow this footage down more. The camera has 32x optical zoom so that should cover you, then just experiment with it and adjust it to what you need.

You can keep the tripod cheap as well, with an Amazon Basics Tripod. The quality won't be that great, but it will how your camera stead. I just wouldn't use it for smooth motion shots or with a heavier rig, but for this it will work.

^This ^post ^contains ^affiliate ^links.

u/D_Mon_Taurus · 2 pointsr/sex
u/t1inderthr0waway · 2 pointsr/Bumble

Part of the key is natural light. Take the pictures next to an open window or door at a favorable time of day.

u/kieranc001 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I might be in the wrong place for this but I recently looked into setting up a cheap surveillance system and ended up buying a camera very much like this because it's cheaper (once you factor in a camera module etc) and much easier to set up than something Pi-based.

If you have a Pi and a webcam and some time free this might not be the case but there are other options!

u/StriveForMediocrity · 2 pointsr/homedefense

this one, for example?

It looks great from what I can tell

It looks I can talk through it too... that would be awesome! I'd love to get my dog's attention if he's doing something he's not supposed to

u/NITROX4all · 2 pointsr/daddit

Might be a bit late to the party here, but I went with a simple IPcam and set it up for network viewing. I never saw the need for a dedicated video monitor when we all have a phone of some sort already. I purchased This One and use any app you like best... Everyone can take a peek during nap times and it definitely makes the grandparents feel apart of it all despite 6 hours between us.

u/lukearens · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

The temp probe is just draped over the back in the little space between the glass and the corner walls, no thermowell bung. I am using the IR mode on a Foscam, which is cool because at a different address I can pan/tilt to make setting up easier. I then use Yawcam to stream it and record frames every 60 seconds. I'm sure I could skip the Yawcam timelapse but the Foscam interface is janky enough that I haven't dug into it too far.

Foscam link

Yawcam link

u/davidd00 · 2 pointsr/casualiama

I have mine set up so that when I leave I can press a button and they will start recording on any movement, save the video to my PC and immediately email me pictures of whats going on. I probably should set them up to upload to my dropbox, which is also simple.

This is the model I have. I got them on sale for $50-5$60 each though.

u/DarlingDestruction · 2 pointsr/BabyBumps

I was/am in the exact same boat - first kid, limited funds, starting from scratch, going through reviews and prices drove me insane. It took me probably three months to get my registry together, and, even then, I am still switching things up, lol. was invaluable while picking everything out. I highly recommend you check it out.

What we have bought ourselves that fit our tight budget:

Graco Comfy Cruiser Travel System. We had already decided to go with that car seat, given that it seems to be the top-rated budget option, and the stroller ended up being a much-needed bonus. We go on walks a lot, so it works for us. If you don't need the stroller, the seat itself is, I think, only ~$100.

The Pack N Play, which I've heard from literally everyone and their mother is almost a necessity.

Because we don't have an IKEA near us to get our hands on a swanky $99 crib, we bought this DaVinci crib. We still only ended up paying $100 for it, as we found it on sale, however, we would have paid the $200 for it, given that the reviews are good, and, when compared to some other cribs that cost $400 and up, the price isn't bad at all.

As for the rest of the registry, we have on there a Moby wrap (affordable baby wearing, yay!), nail clippers, outlet plugs, nursing pads, a wipes case, a baby tub, baby wash, assorted crib sheets, waterproof crib sheets, Pack N Play mattress, and sheets to go with, crib mattress (we actually bought this one when we found it on sale for $20, and it's just fine), receiving blankets, dirty diaper bags (because we aren't getting a diaper pail, just a small can with a seal-able lid), changing pad, and a cover to go with, pacifiers, Dr. Brown's Gia Nursing Pillow, a bottle brush, bottle warmer, thermometer, booger sucker, camera to monitor the baby, and a few other assorted things that I couldn't really find a definitive "best in class" for, so pick at your own discretion: diaper bag, swaddles (although I've read good things about the Summer Infant brand), bottles (we're going with Phillips Avent), a bouncer (we got this one), and a swing.

I agonized over this stuff for what felt like forever, lol, so I hope it helps you and saves you some hair-pulling. It's all so overwhelming!

u/djbfunk · 2 pointsr/predaddit

Yeah, note to that though, I think its law they have to "know" they are being recorded if its a babysitter. If you open a port on your router you can check it from anywhere.

LiveCams Pro (iOS) is the best most compatible app I used, but I know there is also specific baby monitor ones you can set to set off notifications at certain noise threshholds. The standard def ones come in on sale at around 65 bucks on sale, normally 75. I have both these models (use one to check on dogs), the standard is more than adequate to be honest, but I know some people just want to have HD everything.


The HD ones are nice, but a couple more bucks at around 100:

u/dmurph11 · 2 pointsr/homedefense

I have a foscam camera which can do this. There is a little config work to do, but nothing too hard. Point the camera at the door and then in the admin interface go to Device Management > Alarm Service Settings. You can set up an email alert, and image(s) upload on detection of motion.

I'm sure many IP cameras have that feature, I just happen to have the foscam.

u/hmbmelly · 2 pointsr/basset

We have this to watch our dogs. Kind of fun to watch them snoozing away the day.

u/bucki_fan · 2 pointsr/predaddit

Just go now:

Sleeper - Agree with OP, this thing is fantastic. Daughter never slept in her "real" crib until nearly 9 months old. Really pissed that they added the auto-rocker and now I'm tempted to spend $90 to replace our perfectly good one.

Swing - Get one that plugs-in. Also, the one that rocks like a ship (4mom?) and is like $300 - wife's cousin bought one because expensive = best and kid was getting sea sick.

Nosefrida or Baby Comfy Nose - this may save your sanity and the life of you, your spouse, or your child because otherwise sleepless nights are in your future.

Boppy - amazingly useful.

Extra car seat base

Don't bother:

  • Baby wipe warmer
  • Bumbo
  • Diaper Genie - they barely work and you get a compressed plastic log of unholy smell instead of a plastic bag that you can get rid of after one diaper if warranted.

    Kid Dependent:

    Bottles - we got lucky on our first try and she did great with the Tommy bottles. Don't buy a ton or at least don't open them all and be unable to exchange.

    Formula - not judging and sometimes its necessary or just a simple convenience. But some kids prefer one brand over another and/or will react differently to different brands. Also, Costco = Gerber; Target = Similac and WalMart/Sam's = Enfamil.

    Pacifier - some love them, some hate them. Most love, but ours hated the straight kind and was insisting on the flat ones within a few months.

    Humidifier - get a real one that uses heat and be smart enough to put it far enough away from the kid so they don't get burned. Ultrasonic doesn't do shit for stuffy noses or coughs.

    Good Idea, but can wait:

    Video monitor - We went with a normal Foscam and put the tinyCam app on our phones for a few bucks.

    Small food processor - as said elsewhere, don't get the baby one; or just get the cheaper Bella one from Kohl's. Making baby food isn't that hard and it's a ton cheaper. If you've got a Nutribullet or similar, you're also good to go.
u/clickwir · 2 pointsr/Ubuntu

How about just a networked webcam? This one is nice because it can be wired, wireless, picks up audio, pans, tilts, IR LED's for night viewing and can be setup to watch for motion and/or upload pics to an FTP.

Far less configuration and setup needed than any type of computer. Once it's setup, it's plug and go.

u/Beeelow · 2 pointsr/JusticePorn

They're foscam ip cameras. I like them alot. I got mine on sale for ~60 a couple years ago. I don't know the exact model number but it is the kind that pans and tilts. Setting up email notifications was a bit of a pain but after setup works perfectly. So yes, after last night I definitely recommend them.

Edit: I found them on amazon.
My model:

The new model:

u/mike413 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Get a foscam and play with it, this model is good

When you have figured out how it works and have tried different software, then you can expand your system. They have more durable fixed versions for outdoors.

u/Sackman_and_Throbbin · 2 pointsr/Parenting

Anything with video (including infrared). Personally, we use one of these plus a cheaper audio baby monitor. This will allow you to actually see them from your room without having to creep into their nursery, inadvertently make noise and wake them up.

Make sure you get something with decent resolution too. We can actually see our little girl's stomach/chest/back move from her breathing, which cuts down on the "OMFG SIDS" freakouts.

u/2slim · 2 pointsr/homedefense

I went with the Foscam FI8910W. These are admittedly pretty cheap, consumer grade products but for my application they work great. We wanted to monitor all ingress points to our home and we wanted motion detection and email alerts without having to pay a subscription fee. Regarding the full day recording, what I did was setup a local FTP server on an old laptop and have the cameras push a stream to the server when the motion detection alarm is triggered. It's not exactly 24x7 recording and you have to monitor space on the FTP server but drive space is cheap and you can configure the camera to have motion detection on 24x7 so you can get close. You can also setup remote access via dynamic DNS but I'm not interested in allowing that kind of ingress in to my home network. They aren't terrible covert, there are smaller form factors out there with better resolution but the price was usually much higher or you had to sign up for some monthly service which was a deal killer for me. If you get creative they aren't terribly hard to hide. They come with some good mounting hardware if you need to suspend them or have them at an odd angle. They do require a power outlet, no battery option on this model. The only real complaint I have about these cameras is the setup was difficult for the first one due to some firmware issues but they appear to have resolved the problem with the latest firmware patch.

I bought mine off Amazon and plan on buy at least two more:

u/omg-so-clever · 2 pointsr/homeowners

The cat might not do anything. But many cats are "mousers" and they will bring you your trophy of guts before you know there's a problem.

No, they won't get in the attic, and I would assert that mice wouldn't either. Hence squirrel.

Cats aren't good against squirrels, but I have found other uses, such as putting used cat litter around the property to deter woodchucks from nesting.

One of our cats also woke up my wife because there was a bat in the house. I prefer that to the bat waking her up.

I'd recommend a FOSCAM IP camera with IR Cut filter like this:

There are better ones out there in the same product line but that will get your job done.

u/TechFocused · 2 pointsr/funny

Its actually not a webcam in the computer / laptop sense. Its an IP cam. The one I have is here:

u/drbudro · 2 pointsr/NewParents

We got the same one for $60, and the new HD version is still only $75.

The IR/night vision is fantastic and the motor for the pan/tilt is quiet enough to not wake the baby. The app has everything we need and the whole package was easily half the cost of every "baby monitor" we saw. It also has a two way mic/speaker and comes with mounting hardware.

I highly recommend it.

u/paulutk · 2 pointsr/daddit

I use this Foscam FI8910W Pan & Tilt IP/Network Camera with Two-Way Audio and Night Vision (Black)

It works great especially with iOS devices. Much cheaper than most baby monitors too. I can check on my family when I'm at work too. Suggested it to all my family and friends as we'll and they love it too.

u/amapatzer · 2 pointsr/Vive

Well in that case if you're going to buy tripods anyway, maybe just start with those and see how well they work for you?

I have these poles:ütze-max-belastbar/dp/B001BWT2PA

And these to attach the lighthouses to the poles:

Tbh. I think they work perfectly fine for me, but I am sure you will be able to find something better. I just bought those because they were cheap and could be delivered quickly and they didn't have horrible reviews ;)

u/EvidencePlz · 2 pointsr/Vive

All instruction comes with the Vive. As a matter of fact, the leaflet iirc explains very little, but at some point you will be directed to a bunch of official online/youtube video where it tells you how to set it up step by step. you can view them right now if you want:

get a pair of either extendable support rods (like these ) or lightstands ( and a pair of clamps ( you will need them if you aren't willing to drill holes on the wall.

u/THALANDMAN · 2 pointsr/Vive

Clamp mount attaches to the lighthouse tracking stations by screwing into one end, and the other end is a clamp that attaches itself to the poles. This is the clamp I used. You need one for each lighthouse so get two.

u/destru · 2 pointsr/Vive

My playspace is going to be the living area of my apartment, so one of my lighthouses is going to be clamped to the rod which holds my curtain to the sliding door and the other is being clamped to a shower rod extended vertically. Total cost was $45. I personally like the shower rod idea because it's a smaller footprint than a tripod but a good priced one can be hard to find that's long enough. Mine extends a bit more than 8 feet.

I ordered two of these: Grifiti Nootle Quick Release Pipe Clamp with 1/4 20 Threaded Head

and one of these (unfortunally they only had the one in stock) : Tatkraft Oscar Extendable Telescopic Shower Curtain Tension Rod L140÷260 cm D 25mm

u/guitaratomik · 2 pointsr/ValveIndex

Oh yeah! Meant to mention that. I got these camera clamps ( The base stations are compatible with them and they clamp just enough to rest on the top most section of the rod.

u/mthiem · 2 pointsr/Vive

I used these stands FastCap 3rd Hand Support...

And these clamps Grifiti Nootle Quick Release...

And I couldn't be happier with the result. Very highly recommend. Way better than freestanding tripods because they press against ceiling and floor for ultimate stability, preventing loss of tracking during play, and they take up virtually no space if you set them up in the opposite corners of the room.

u/Jerrith · 2 pointsr/Vive

Clamp Mounts:


I believe I found both of these in the recommended section at the end of the Vive DK1 instructions.

u/TiKi-r · 2 pointsr/Vive

A more mobile and easy solution I'm personally going with is using floor to ceiling poles

And pole mounts,

(And if I recall, this is also what Valve recommended in the setup guide at the bottom of it all as well)

EDIT: damn someone already posted these

u/swarmster1 · 2 pointsr/Vive

For reference, it's these:


Pole mounts:

I do like the 2 points of contact. It's something I've been considering. I plan on, at least initially, taking my setup all over (my own personal 'world tour') to show people, so I've been looking for portable equipment that could also be used in my own 'permanent' setup. (One issue with the poles might be if you're somewhere with drop ceilings.)

My other thought is to get a couple GorillaPods (note re: weights, I know the lighthouses are light, but I figure the beefier the Pod, the less likely it'll move over time or allow vibration): (6lbs) (11lbs)

That way if someone has a lamp, shelf, or curtain rod, I'd be set. There might be scenarios where it wouldn't work, though.

u/King_Haxor · 2 pointsr/Vive

I use these bad boys and they're the shit.

Then use these to attach the lighthouses:

They screw in perfectly on the lighthouses. These make it extremely easy to reposition and pack up if you need to. I've taken these on vacation and you can basically set them up anywhere. In my experience, I haven't noticed any difference in tracking between using these or wall-mounting. Worth the $50-$60 for sure.

u/VRising · 2 pointsr/oculus

At home I clamp my sensors to 3 tall lamps I got from Walmart. The 4th is clamped to a cupboard handle. The reason I used clamps is so that I could easily disassembled it but it's still a pain to move and put back up especially if you are going to plan for clean wiring. I would suggest evaluating how often you plan to set up away from home to determine if it's worth it. If it's less than a couple times a year it might be better to just bring a desktop. You will end up with more value and power and a better experience for the majority of your time in VR.

The clamps.

u/Darth_Ruebezahl · 2 pointsr/Vive

This is a picture of my setup with items available from Amazon in Germany.

First of all, I used the vertical tension rods from a wardrobe. You can use the rod without the "arms", though you could possibly use the arms to hang the controllers.

Then I used a Grifiti Nootle pipe attachment for cameras to attach the lighthouses. I twisted the power cable around the tension rod (later, I will use some tape to actually attach it there) - and I was done in under half an hour (of which I probably spent 15 minutes to figure out how to assemble the tension rod).

Advantages of this setup: I didn't have to drill at all, the lighthouses are firmly in place (haven't had to redo room setup yet) and quite high up, reducing the potential for "occlusion spots". I haven't noticed any vibration either. Also, unlike tripods, the tension rods have an extremely small footprint, and they are much closer to the wall. This setup is somewhat "semi-mobile" - you could remove it in a minute and set it up again in 5 minutes. I wouldn't want to do this every day, but to give the occasional demo in other people's homes, it is useful enough. Also, I was not sure if my setup would work, as my lighthouses are now further apart than 5 meters, so I could have changed the setup easily (luckily, it did work).

Only disadvantage I can think of: That tension rod looks somewhat ugly. My wofe gave me a bit of a "WTF?" look. But you have a cable running up the wall anyway, even if you use the mounting set.

The only alternative setup that I might switch to someday is where the lighthouses are attached with the mounting set and the cables are hidden behind white covers. But so far, I am too lazy, so I recommend this tension rod setup to anyone who is equally lazy, or doesn't want to deal with the dirt and noise of drilling or doesn't have the necessary skill (or courage) for it.

u/davedontmind · 2 pointsr/Vive

They look good, but a bit expensive. I went for 2 of these which are less than a quarter of the cost, although I did need to add 2 of these to mount the lighthouse to the pole. Total cost for everything to mount 2 lighthouses: around £46.

Makes my room look a little bit like a building site, but it does mean I can move my setup between my seated gaming room & my room-scale room easily.

u/lastrogu3 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Pretty much this.

I ordered one shipment of these (comes with 2):

and I ordered two of these:

They work great and take up hardly any space at all.

If you have a pretty high ceiling or a ceiling that is angled I would not recommend this setup. I tried setting it up on an angled ceiling and caught it as it fell a minute or two after setting it up.

u/gonne · 2 pointsr/Vive

Instead of tripods, I'm using some very long shower curtain rods.

and pipe clamps:

It works like a charm, easy to set up and move if needed, and is a lot more compact than using a tripod :)

u/qryll · 2 pointsr/Vive

I got two each of this:

and this:

Not the cheapest but it meant I didn't have to drill into the wall and it will be super easy to move / adjust if I ever decide to do that. Plus delivery is pretty quick with Amazon Prime.

u/Shadaez · 2 pointsr/Vive

no, these will go from the ground to the ceiling and stay put via tension, you use clamps

or simply the included wall mounts + some pipe clamps (those cheap metal circle things )

to mount the lighthouse

u/Dumdadumdoo · 2 pointsr/rit

I have a Vive! To set up the lighthouses so that they have practically zero blueprint, buy two 3rd hands (this is a two pack) and two clamps. It's pricey overall, but if you have a Vive you probably can afford it anyways. They'll work perfectly and won't damage anything. Just stick them both in opposite corners, mount the lighthouse near the top using the clamp, and run a wire up to it. You're good to go. Takes up much less real estate than a normal tripod.

u/SeBBBB974 · 2 pointsr/Vive

here's a link of the contractor pole

As it's just a pole it can go behind my desk with no problem, I extend it from the floor to the ceiling and I set up an adapter on it

u/openglfan · 2 pointsr/Vive

For non-permanent mounting, I have had great luck with a pair of these:

and a pair of these:

Just a personal recommendation. I'm not a shill for Big Showercurtain.

u/oraclefish · 2 pointsr/Vive

In my bedroom, I've been using these carpenter poles, and they work fantastically! (Even with 10 foot ceilings)

In combination with These for mounting the lighthouses - once you lock them in place, they do not move. Great little tool!

Concerning games, the first things I show ANYONE are TheBlu, The Lab, The Plank, and TiltBrush (if they haven't tried VR before)

u/Vargrr · 2 pointsr/Vive

I use acro-props (the ones I ordered: along with quick release mounts (the ones I use:

I have had this setup since the original Vive came out and once setup, I have never had to touch them again. They are extremely solid and just work.

The system is also 100% non-destructive and can be transferred to a new place if you decide to rent elsewhere.

u/musubk · 2 pointsr/CampingandHiking

As a semi-pro photographer who owns like 6 dSLR's, I'm going to second the recommendation for a Sony NEX/a-series for a hiking camera. I had an F3 but ruined it in a crash with my drone, soon to be replaced with a NEX6, but if I was willing to spend $800 on a hiking camera it'd be the a6000 (they've dropped the NEX name in the current models). I use them with adapters so I can use my good Nikon glass but it looks like the Sony lenses aren't bad. I still carry my Nikon D610 in the pack when backpacking but it's awkward dangling around my neck.

For $500-$600, this

For $800, this

NEX/a-series main advantage is that it uses an APS-C sized sensor rather than a micro 4/3s. A bigger sensor generally has better noise and color characteristics and nicer depth of field. If you want entry or mid level dSLR quality in a compact package, these cameras will do it. My Nikon D7000 is only superior in ergonomics.

If the zoom you're talking about was 'digital zoom', it's exactly the same thing as taking a picture without zoom and cropping the image later on your computer. Don't let that be a selling point. There are optical zoom lenses for the NEX/a-series line and you can use a really wide variety of lenses with adapters since the cameras are thin enough to give the proper backfocal distance even with an adapter and the sensor is the larger size that dSLR lenses are intended to work with.

Short version, the NEX/Alpha line has good image quality, is simple enough to start with, and is expandable enough with lens adapters if you decide you need more in the future.

You will need to learn composition and exposure if you want good results no matter what you get. It's not true what people say that the camera doesn't matter, but a nice camera won't make a bad photo good.

u/bigdogxxl · 2 pointsr/iphone

Think DSLR but smaller. I highly recommend the Sony A6000 with the stock 16-50mm lens. You can pick one up less than $600 brand new on Amazon, stick in auto mode and get some fantastic shots. It's also a great camera to learn on if you do decide to keep it and want to go beyond the auto setting. Here's something I took a few months ago on auto (very lightly retouched).

The other option is something like the Sony RX100 point and shoot. Again, it's a tiny camera and on auto you will get great shots.

u/PrimordialXY · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

My top 3 picks under $600 would be:

Nikon D5600

Olympus OM-D E-M10 M3

Sony a6000

These are all excellent beginner cameras that'll last you through your entire amateur phase at minimum. The Nikon 5600 is currently on sale for $550 brand new (normally retails for $800+) and comes with a decent kit lens. I hope you found this useful!

u/myclownfishbite · 2 pointsr/AskPhotography

so something like will get me going you think? The only thing I notice is that it doesn't have image stabilization but it seems to check almost all the boxes!

u/cryptical · 2 pointsr/astrophotography

I just wanted to second the binoculars recommendation. I got a pair of these (non-affiliate link to Amazon) and use them all the time. If you have a reclining outdoor chair, you can just lay back and enjoy the view!

u/jswhitten · 2 pointsr/askastronomy

You can't go wrong with a Dobsonian in the 6"-8"-10" range. At the lower end they'll be less expensive and more portable, but at the higher end you'll be able to see more.

I have an Orion 8" Dobsonian. They also sell Intelliscope models that will assist you in finding objects. I like finding things on my own, by star-hopping, but it takes a little patience and experience. These books will help:

I recommend getting one with at least two eyepieces, or at least one eyepiece and a Barlow, so you'll have a choice of magnifications.

And whether or not you get a telescope, a pair of binoculars is a good thing to have. 7x50s are nice and easy to use without a tripod. 10x50s will show you a little more but are a little harder to hold steady. Anything larger and you'll probably want a tripod for them. I have 10x50s and am considering getting these:

u/StarkillerX42 · 2 pointsr/askastronomy

the best telescope below $100 and the upgrade from that. A cheap scope usually does more bad than good because they're frustrating and the less you know, the harder they are to use. If you want to get started, get binoculars, download Stellarium, and you can use it for most everything. If I was a millionaire and could buy anything I wanted, I'd still have a pair of 7x50s around my neck in conjunction with an expensive scope