Best camera remote shutter release according to redditors
We found 217 Reddit comments discussing the best camera remote shutter release. We ranked the 94 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
12. Remote Shutter Release Cord for Canon EOS 5D, 50D, 40D, 20D, & 10D Digital SLR Cameras
4 mentions
Sony Imaging Edge Mobile can be used for remote control of the camera.
I'd recommend grabbing one of these for when Wifi doesn't work.
https://smile.amazon.com/SHOOT-DSC-RX100M3-DSC-RX100M2-DSC-RX100II-DSC-RX100III/dp/B00ME7N6P8/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=sony+remote+camera+release+a7ii&qid=1564210281&s=gateway&sr=8-7
Here are some examples of a light painting experiment we did in my dining room http://imgur.com/a/vN4ko
I use a Canon but here's my "for dummies"/quickstart guide to light painting:
TIP: if you're working alone, set the self timer to 2 seconds so that you have time to move in front of the lens before the exposure starts*
*TIP: if you set the shutter speed to BULB then it will keep it open for as long as the shutter button is held down. Most remote-shutter releases have a LOCK or HOLD position that is very useful. You can buy a remote for under $10 on amazon. (You don't need to go name brand for this, it's just a button)
TIP If you want to use BULB mode but down have a remote, you can
"hack" it by using tape to keep the button down*
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4
Try those. Buy yourself a couple spares and they'll be as reliable as you need.
My two cents is that it's not really worth it. Yes, TTL can be convenient if all you will ever do is to shoot with on-camera flash, and leave your camera in auto all the time, and with an advanced wireless setup with multiple flashes, it's somewhat convenient to be able to adjust the ratios from the camera itself, rather than having to go to each flash in a different setup.
That said, in terms of advanced lightning and overall versatility, you are going to have a much better time with a wireless setup and multiple flashes.
However, for the price of the one SB-700, you can have:
Total: $268, that leaves you with enough to add a softbox or some lightning modifiers.
Here's the thing: A manual flash, and compensating for it, even if you occasionally mount it on your camera becomes second nature after just a week or two, and the sheer convenience of being able to (let's say you're photographing a party), being able to just put two flashes in the room, set them both to something reasonable, point them at the ceiling, and shoot away handily beats out TTL, and avoids the harsh light on-camera flash gives you.
Since you're giving prices in euros, you may want to check amazon.fr, amazon.co.uk or amazon.de - whichever of these is more local to you - the Yongnuo gear is usually available there, and light stands to the Cowboystudio are usually also available, and shipping may be cheaper.
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1. Note there are two different Nikon models, the N1 or the N3 - you'd need to check which model you need.
It's a shutter release button. Something to screw into where the shutter release cord normally goes. The range from cheap plastic 5 dollar options to 50 dollar nice engraved versions.
https://www.amazon.com/VKO-Shutter-Release-Compatible-Fujifilm-x/dp/B01M2COLAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543218427&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shutter+release+button&dpPl=1&dpID=41bYgYVbfmL&ref=plSrch
Personally it makes it easier for me to hit the button smoothly since I have sort of shaky hands. This plus the hot shoe thumb attachment is really helpful for shaky hands.
I went down a deep Nikon rabbit hole asking this same question and here's where I landed:
First: the camera will shut off every 30 minutes like /u/bgpawesome said. This is sort of a sensor issue but it's equally (if not more) a tax issue. I found one workaround for using your Nikon longer than 30 minutes and it comes down to recording. I have a D5600 so I'm not sure if all of this will transfer to the D5300 but if you start recording on your Nikon then stop it it resets the shut off timer. I bought a cheap remote shutter release cord and in the settings changed the remote settings from "release shutter" to "record video". It works but sometimes it tries to focus so you might want to set it to manual focus.
Second: The Elgtao is incredibly limiting on Mac. You have to use Elgato's software and I found it lacking so I went with the Black Magic Ultra Studio Mini Recorder. In fact, I bought two (one for my DSLR/GoPro and one for my Xbox One or a second camera). Now I can use OBS which I found way more customizable than Elgato.
Third: To be perfectly honest, after a month of research and trial and error, I use a Logictech c920 for my "main" camera. If I'm doing a music performance or something that I want to look nicer I use the Nikon but for every day streaming the c920 has been more than adequate.
Hope this helps. Happy to answer anymore questions if you have them.
Bare minimum, you'll need some extension tubes. Kenko's are always my top recommendation, but Vello's are almost as good for a much lower price. Both have electrical contacts for autofocus and work identically. Extension tubes are just empty barrels, so image quality will not be affected.
Extension tube magnification depends on the focal length of the lens being used. Since both of your lenses are 50mm, an FD to EF adapter will not give you ay benefit over using your EF lens.
If you're interested in buying a macro lens, it's actually quite difficult to go wrong, as almost all EF macro lenses are very good. Having said that, extension tubes are more than enough to get started with macro, so no need to jump the gun.
Macro lens recommendations:
Do not get:
Since higher magnifications require more light, a flash is highly recommended. Any flash will do, but you'll want to be able to trigger it when it's not on the camera. Something like a Yongnuo RF-603 is a very cheap way to do that.
You'll also want some modifiers for your flash. You can buy some (diffusers, snoots, etc.) or make your own.
The most important thing, I feel, is a good guide for starting in macro. Macrophotography by LordV is pretty much the holy grail, and has a few tips on building your own modifier, if that's something you're into.
What camera? You don't need one at all if you can install magic lantern, it's built into the software (what I use) - otherwise the cheap Amazon knockoffs (http://www.amazon.com/Shutter-Release-Timer-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394018085&sr=1-5&keywords=canon+cable+release) work as well as the canon $100 ones (what I used before ML).
edit: ah, i see your have a nikon. maybe this one: http://www.amazon.com/GTMax-Digital-Shutter-Release-Control/dp/B00463ERCY/
It appears that your T3i has Live View, and that's effectively the same thing as using mirror lock-up. At that point, the only shake will come from the shutter.
If you're looking for wireless shutter release capabilities, you could use something like the Yongnuo 603 II which lets you use radio transmission to fire the shutter (huge range and doesn't require line-of-sight like IR does). I use mine mostly for that purpose, but they're also capable of firing flashes too if you decide to expand into that at a later time.
I have a Nikon D7000, and I just use a little wired shutter release that duplicates the two-stage shutter button on the camera exactly, with the added feature of locking down to trigger the "bulb" mode for as long as I want.
The Cannon Magic Lantern solution is one option, but personally I use the wired remote anyway for any longish tripod photography because it doesn't shake the camera when I press the button. Mup mode + off camera trigger = no shake even with the longest lenses.
However, as /u/zeFinn pointed out elsewhere, it's a good idea to stack photos for long exposures instead of just taking one long picture; it helps cut down on noise from the camera sensor heat as well as normal noise because it can be filtered out in the stacking process. I only got away with this because it was about 20°F out, if it had been warmer the picture would have hot pixels everywhere. (if you look at that image in full resolution, the hot pixels are really obvious. That was nearly 20 minutes in t-shirt weather, so it turned out really badly.)
I think it's worth getting a cheap cable release for your D5300. You can find them for under $10.
https://www.amazon.com/SHOOT-Release-Shutter-Trigger-Digital/dp/B00MCA191K/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1ZSU953HZ1EVU&keywords=nikon+d5300+remote+shutter+release&qid=1567601416&s=gateway&sprefix=nikon+d5300+%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-8
What triggers are you using? I was looking at either the Yongnuo 560-TX or the RF-603 II
Usually you would use a remote shutter which basically holds the shutter for you until you release its button.
wait! I have one of those! This one: (https://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497150913&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=cam.in+remote+a6000) which I have never used and it's still sealed. Same I should have researched beforehand.
There's cheapo ones that have intervalometers and bulb timers too. Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M
I personally love it, especially the design. It's almost completely metal so it's fairly heavy. There are some neat features, like a switch which lets you crank the shutter lever whilst not advancing the film for double exposures etc. Aperture and shutter priority (only works with camera supported lenses) allow for automatic exposure based on chosen aperture/shutter and the metering of the scene of course. I'm not a big fan of the empty screw shutter button so I recommend buying a screw on button like these: https://www.amazon.com/Shutter-Release-Fujifilm-Concave-Surface/dp/B01M2COLAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503680051&sr=8-3&keywords=shutter+button :) There is stop down metering mode which allows you to use non native lenses and still have the camera choose the shutter automatically. If you have any more questions just ask.
I don't know if it has an intervalomter function built in (I'm a Canon guy), but just get one of these and take all of five minutes to read the manual. Super easy to use. Then take all of your images and throw 'em in to your favorite video editing software and go to town. Fairly simple, honestly.
Attach one of these radio triggers to the hotshoe mount on your camera and the other the hotshoe mount of your SB-600.
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508589&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+603
Then place the radio trigger and your flash onto this and fire away
http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Studio-Umbrellas-Fancierstudio-UB1/dp/B004HR0M4Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508670&sr=8-4&keywords=light+stand+umbrella
> Does the camera body have a built in wireless trigger that SB-600-700-800-910 respond to?
Yes, kind of. The main on the camera does a few special preflashes that the other ones can pick up. It's kind of like if I used a flashlight to send you a message in morse code -- except they do it much, much faster.
> Or do I have to mount a flash on the camera shoe, and use a wireless transmitter built into that flash to trigger a wireless receiver in another flash?
That's an option but not necessary on the newest models. However, I still often opt to buy cheap radio triggers because it's nice not having to deal with line of sight.
> Is the Nikon wireless system in SB-XXX capable with regards to range, i.e. 100meter range or more,
No, I wouldn't say so. Maybe in a pitch black environment. The range is very dependent on how bright it is since in a bright environment the bursts of light from your camera are harder to "see."
> and is it line of sight limited, or should I buy the $39 wireless radio trigger kits from eBay?
It is line of sight limited.. kind of. In a dark place if it bounces off a wall it will still trigger your flashes. It's hit or miss and depends, again, how much ambient light there is.
> Or does Nikon sell a wireless trigger kit/CLS that takes better advantage of integrated features (i-TTL via wireless triggers)?
Nikon might, but in this case the most common thing would be to buy something like Pocket Wizards. However then you're shelling out around $150-250 per transceiver which is over $300 just for one camera/flash pair. You can easily drop a thousand dollars just getting your flashes to be wireless.. which really sucks.
> What do I miss out on with cheap eBay remote flashes?
They have very long ranges and are quite reliable so you mostly only miss out on the TTL aspect. If you're fine with setting flashes manually they're very useful. I have a set of RF-602's by Yongnuo (cheap Chinese) but you'd now want to purchase the updated RF-603. They will probably be ever so slightly less reliable than a pocket wizard set, but by less reliable I mean you may miss one shot every 200-500 photos.
On the cheap I strongly recommend the yongnuo unit. Also works as a wireless shutter release, and very well reviewed for the price.
If you've got the coin, the pocketwizards are worth it, but for just starting out the yongnuo's are a steal.
extra battery is a must have.
remote for easy remote shutter
external usb powered battery charger
any anker battery pack is nice too, hook this up to your camera directly or to the charger above.
for bags/straps i'm a huge fan of peak design. they're expensive but damn good quality. https://www.peakdesign.com
OP could also buy these triggers for which the YN560 has a receiver built in:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YW79F4
As a pair they can trigger any manual flash, but as long as you have a YN flash you only need one trigger. Saves one more piece of equipment to keep track of and carry batteries for.
Hey, I have the same camera and intend on doing the same thing, only on Tuesday (8/14) night. I'll miss peak by one night... :/
I've never shot a meteor shower, though.
Anyway, I use the camera more with my refractor, but I do wide-angle shots sometimes, including one of the ISS I keep meaning to post (and hope to remember to do when I get home today). Here's things I've learned in my short time in astrophotography; remember, this is general stuff, as I've never shot a meteor shower:
All right, I feel like I'm missing some things. It's late, I'm working the night shift, and I don't have my notes with me. Also, I might be rambling. I really like the D5100, though, and I feel like there's a lot of tricks to learn. That's half the fun, though, right? :D
You should check out these: http://amzn.com/B004YW79F4
Or alternatively just stick a piece of white card, like a business card in front of the on camera flash to bounce the light away from the subject. Also turn down the power of the flash manually. Doing both of these will prevent the on camera flash affecting the exposure, but will allow the slaves to pick up the flash. No delay is needed.
I used the same technique before I bought the triggers listed above, while they are manual control only they are a great starter trigger.
Hope that helps.
(First time poster long time lurker, made account to answer your query!)
I use Yongnuo radio triggers with my d5100. They are about $30 for a pair and have worked well for me. They'll let you remotely trigger the shutter, but you can also used them to sync off-camera flashes (manual only, no TTL).
If you buy two or more pair, you can both trigger the shutter and off-camera flashes.
My only complaint is that when syncing flashes, there seems to be a little delay. That little delay means the flashes don't go off soon enough and I sometimes see black bars at my sync speed (1/200th). I have to set my shutter a bit slower, at 1/160th to eliminate the black bars. But for $30 a pair, that's a minor thing.
Something to keep in mind when using it as both a shutter remote and flash sync: You can trigger your shutter just by plugging one into your camera with the short shutter cable. It doesn't need to be in the hot shoe for that. You can then put a flash in your hot shoe and use TTL. However, you can't remotely trigger flashes that way. To sync off-camera flashes, you have to have one trigger in your camera's hot shoe. You can then stack a flash on top of the trigger, but you'll lose TTL for that flash. The trigger in your hot shoe can also have the shutter cable attached, serving both as the receiver for the shutter button in your hand and also as the flash sync master transmitter.
The reason the flash sync requires one in the hot shoe is because even though it knows when you press the remote shutter button, it can't know how long it takes your camera to activate the shutter. If it were to guess wrong, the flash would go off at the wrong time and the light would fall on a closed shutter. The trigger in your hand activates the one plugged into your shutter release. The camera starts the process of taking a picture. Some (very short) time later, the camera sends a signal to the hot shoe. The trigger in the hot shoe (probably the same one that's plugged into your shutter release) senses that signal and only then transmits to the other triggers to fire the off-camera flashes, ensuring that the flashes go off at the correct time.
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405975513&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+radio+trigger
You need an intervalometer. Nikon doesn't make an official one for your camera, so you need to get a third party one. I would not spend more than ~$30 on one.
I just got the cheapest one I could find and its worked fine for me. There are several other models on amazon like this one or this one that have slightly better ratings.
Yognuo makes some incredible flashes for the price - fully compatible with Canon, Nikon, etc. This is a superb flash, and this is the accompanying trigger for Canon 450D. There's a receiver built into the 560, but I don't think you can buy just one trigger.
This would be a great add-on.
my favorite dinosaur is a Velociraptor. Those things are bitch'n.
From my list that would be THIS
Yongnuo RF-603 triggers work great for me. Although, they wont be very useful if you use your speedlites in TTL mode. It only supports speedlites in manual mode.
Get an external flash. If I'd bought one of those I likely wouldn't have had a strong urge to upgrade my two kit lenses as fast as I did. This plus these and you're set. I recommend buying rechargeable batteries, you'll need 4 AA for the flash, and 2 AAA per wireless transmitter.
How important is TTL when using a single OCF?
Basically, I'm learning to use my SB700 but don't like having the sync cable attached to my camera. I'm considering a few wireless options:
Yongnuo
or
Pocket Wizard
The key question here is that I'm still figuring things out and don't know how often I'll need/want to use my flash. If I go the cheaper route, I'm limited to only using the flash in manual mode (versus the industry standard pocket wizards). So, is flash in manual mode a disadvantage for a beginner and I should go with the pricier, but more versatile PWs? Or is TTL not crucial for beginner/intermediate work?
Thanks!
Well, depending on his interest: starscapes vs telezoom celestial bodies, I would buy him a good prime lens (50mm or 85mm) that is used. Look for f/1.8 or less (the 1.8 is way more affordable). The other great thing about these two lenses are they're very versatile. He can use them just about anywhere that he goes and they are excellent in low light situations. He will definitely, more so than the lens, need a tripod. You cannot get a good shot without something to hold the camera still.
He'll need a good remote release cord so that he'll be able to keep the shutter open and get that great shot.
Again, I don't know much about the telescoping zoom lenses but this one happens to be in your price range. You could do this and the remote release but he'll still need a tripod of some kind. Do you know if he has one?
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4
I was very happy with my a6000 for landscapes and astrophotography. I don't think the newer models would be worth the cost unless you want much better action/video. I'd recommend the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm/2.0 for wide shots sample.
You will need some kind of wireless remote, I recommend this style for $10.
I just got this simple one off of amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458139992&sr=8-1&keywords=a6000+remote
It's their #1 best seller and has great reviews. It's cheap and does exactly what I need it to do.
Ah yes, I do have a PC connector Amazon link of Yongnuo 603n. I was much too tired yesterday night to even think of that!
I'll give it a shot. Wouldn't be the worst thing in the world if it works.
The pro Canons use a different connector from the axial plug of the low-end models.
https://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Remote-Shutter-Release-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y34AK6 or
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B005LT7CE2/
I use this intervalometer with my D3200, it works pretty well. I can use it either as a remote shutter release (just press the button), or I can set it up as if I were doing a time lapse to take a series of photos without having to press the button each time. If you have the gear for it, you can also use it to take very long exposures - an equatorial mount with tracking for AP, or something like a stack of ND filters for daytime photography. You'd just set the camera on bulb mode, and set the intervalometer for something like a five minute exposure (30s is the longest my camera can do alone).
The best system for you is probably Nikon DSLRs. They have the best low light performance for your money in the DSLR world, and being a camera manufacturer pretty much exclusively, they have looooots of lenses.
My recommendation:
Refurb D7000 - $519. 1/320 flash sync speed, plenty good in low light, pro ergonomics, works with nikon's newer and older lenses.
Lens: 50mm f1.8G. You said portraits only, so here is your best bang for your buck lens for that. $215.
Lighting: Check out the strobist 101 lighting kit. $100ish.
Flash: YN 565 + radio triggers. $150ish.
With a memory card and whatnot, that comes to around $1000 and you have a great portrait setup. But, you're limited to one focal length (albeit a very useful one). Here are some tips if you wanna push it into the $1000-2000 range:
Nikon 80-200 f2.8D - crazy bang for your buck.
Sigma 18-35 f1.8 - the best wide/normal zoom lens for aps-c cameras. The quality out of it is nothing short of astounding.
85mm f1.8G. You want shallow depth of field? You've got it.
Canon makes a pretty nice IR remote that clips neatly to the neck strap. I believe it works on all rebels but double check.
If that doesn't work, these should: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-RF-603-II-C3-Transceiver/dp/B00HO0BYQS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418225101&sr=8-1&keywords=yongnuo+603II
They are for flashes but have remote shutter capability too.
I've played with an SB800 and an SB900 with the camera (D7100) in commander mode. They work fine in a room where the light will reflect a bit, and they're ok behind white umbrellas, but I wouldn't push the issue much further than that.
For a mid-level solution, check out [These Guys.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4) They work on RF so you don't have to rely on line-of-sight. They're also pretty cheap, and as an added bonus can work as a wireless shutter release. I'm waiting to get paid, and then I'm gonna order a pair of them to play with, eventually I'd like 2 pair (you need 3 to trigger 2 flash heads, and one extra never hurt anyone.) But I want to make sure they're going to work properly first. The only downside to these is that they don't do TTL, so you have to dial the flash power in manually, which doesn't matter to most people anyway.
I find wired shutter releases like these much more reliable than IR. www.amazon.com/dp/B005TCJJ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_VA5Xub0DX47BM
I have had nothing but problems with using IR remotes. With IR you will have to sometimes dance around while pressing it to get it to work. A wired or RF release will work MUCH more consistently
New with a DSLR, I'm going to buy a remote wired shutter release to help me with long exposure shots (startrails, etc), for my Nikon D7100
I see an inexpensive one for $7.50, is that good enough? Is there anything more I should be looking for? The one I'm looking at.
Didn't realize the IV had a radio transmitter in the first place. Might just go with the 560 III, and I actually wanted to use a manual flash, not TLL. Are there any wireless triggers I could buy for the flash? I saw a few but didn't know if I should drop on any of them or not, specifically this one Thanks for the help! Is there anything else you recommend or have an input on before I go off and purchase it?
Indeed, with the Yongnuo Wireless Shutter Release Transceiver Kit . Inexpensive and reliable.
Are you using these? I don't see how a bracket doesn't have room for them.
> require the hotshoe to plug directly into the mount.
As opposed to where? I don't exactly understand.
Personally I use one of these because you can screw the foot into a tripod (standard 1/4 inch) or stand it up on a table by itself. I use an SB-28 with those triggers with no problem.
I'm going to Hong Kong on the 18-26th, then Taipei from the 26-30th! I am doing some major soul-searching and giving a break from my daily routine :) Lots of hiking and pictures! Might look into a tripod + this for some awesome selfies!
you can buy an intervalometer from amazon for $15 and use your t6i for time-lapse shots. they both share the same 24mp sensor, so image quality will be identical. If it was me, i would get the t6i, because of the higher focus points, but that's because I only take stills and 9 point is too low when you are taking stills.
Recently bought a few knick knacks for mine.
I haven't used it for long periods of time, but I haven't experienced any of this with my X-T2 or signs of it with the X100F so far. Could just be the buttons you're using? I bought these for mine:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2COLAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I work in the software industry. There's no such thing as a "super straight forward" feature on a high end consumer electronic device like the A7. Every feature gets a design doc, project plan, quality assurance cycle, and user testing. Documentation has to be written; both for the user manual and the in-camera guide. That documentation has to be professionally translated into at least half a dozen languages
Programming is often a trivial part of adding a feature.
With an unsupported 3rd party add-on, doing something like that is no big deal. Support what languages you want. If it sucks or it's broken, release an update. It's not going to create black marks on your camera review.
And as far as it goes, you can use a cheap intervalometer do do what you're asking. Set the camera to 3 shot bracket burst (or whatever you want). Set the release to whatever schedule you like, in bulb mode with an exposure long enough to take 3 shots. This $30 unit will do the trick: http://amzn.com/B017GY5KWA
I shoot macro photography and the A7R3 actually loses the 3rd party app to create focus stacks. So, I have more reason than you to be annoyed with Sony.
Thanks! Like connorirw said, a tripod and long shutter speed is a necessity. That image in particular was taken over a 4 hour period to track the star movement. It's possible to get an effect like this with an exposure close to that length in bulb mode, but I find it's better to make a composite with several images stacked. This reduces noise and allows for the removal of any bad frames(like planes flying through the shot, etc).
So I focused on the stars and used f3.5, ISO 500, with 30sec exposures being taken over and over for the 4 hours. There are modes on most(all?) DSLRs for continuous shooting, but I used an intervalometer to set it up. At Sunrise I took another image with the lake in focus at a narrower aperture to add after creating the startrails.
Then I began the processing. I used an application called Starstax to create the composite image, which I exported to photoshop to blend the foreground in. I set the foreground layer mode to lighten and played around with a gradient filter to ensure the trails stayed bright.
This was my first attempt blending a brighter foreground layer with startrails in this way. It was trickier than I initially thought, and I'm not completely happy with the result. I typically light paint the specific foreground subject I want to focus on, which makes the editing much easier.
Sorry for the long post, hope it helped.
If you have a mac and a camera, just plug it in and have the Image Capture utility auto shoot every x number of seconds.
If not, either get a camera that has this ability built in, or get a timelapse specific attachment for your camera such as this one.
Once you have all the shots taken (I recommend 1 shot every 1 or 2 minutes) put them into a video editor (imovie works well but others should be fine) and set the frames to say .1 seconds each. Export that resulting series of frames as a movie and voila!
I made this timelapse using this technique.
OR
Get a smartphone timelapse app and just set your phone up to shoot the shots. Downside to this is that you wont have a phone for the duration of the print :( but it'll take care of almost everything else including exporting a video for you :)
Why so ghetto? Just get a cable release, they cost like $5 :)
Oh man, that's a nice camera! You're going to have tons of fun with that.
You do probably want to use the bulb setting, although you don't have to. I think the a6000 will do up to a 30" exposure without a remote. I use this timer because it lets you totally customize and automate your picture-taking. For example, you can do a nighttime time-lapse movie by taking, say, a 30 second exposure every 2 minutes for 6 hours, and you can program that all into the remote so that it will work while you sleep. Definitely a worthwhile investment if you want to get into any kind of photography.
Really? Would this not work? Because I used one with my d3200 and never had an issue
Neewer Digital Timer Remote Shutter Release Trigger(Replacement for MC-DC2)for Nikon D90 D5000 D5200 D7100 D4 Digital Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NFwtDbYPK5GFF
TTL can be nice in certain situations depending on what he's shooting, but yeah, a ~$30 price drop per transceiver for losing TTL is significant.
Hey OP: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/
I use a $10 Foto&Tech remote off Amazon, it worked on my a6000 and works now it works on my a7rii
https://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510695460&sr=8-4&keywords=sony+camera+wireless+remote
I would recommend buying this. it has a mini jack that connects to the camera and a head unit. this will allow you to use the wireless remote even though a T5 doesn’t have an RF sensor. quality will be very similar if not exact to canon, a little plasticy but not terribly.
Or is it [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZB5FYR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2AJdAbG5J23EN?th=1&psc=1)
I want to get a lighting set up for a home studio. I was going to get some youngnuo flashes from amazon. However, how do I find a set of 1 trigger and 3 receivers for a 3 point light set up?
In this amazon pckg it looks like I only have one set. are they all synced to the same frequency?
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z
Any tutorials good tutorials for these flashes? I been looking but wound up with 1hr vids where the photogapher talks 90% about how cool he is and 10% of how to use the product.
I have a speedlite and just gave up trying to use it last summer, because it was so hard to use. The power was so strong. I tried one of those caps to diffuse but it seemed futile
60mm micro - $200
d7000 kit - $700 (look for a kit so you get extra lenses for other lifestyle work)
Yonguno Flash - $75
Wireless kit - $35.
You're $10 over your limit but you'll probably make that up with a smart purchase on the 60mm or d7000 kit.
just this but at a much cheaper price
EDIT- I failed at bulleting
I have* a Neewer remote that does pretty close to what you want, and I use it to do this.
It's a corded remote, so set the delay to however long it'll take you to get in the shot.
Leave the bulb alone - instead set exposure on your camera.
Leave interval at 1 (as low as it goes), and it'll take a picture every one second. Not quite burst, but close.
Set the number to however many photos you want to take.
Leave the sound on, and if you have good ears, you'll hear when it's done from where you are.
I got the Fotasy grip which helps with handling and protects it a little from falls.
If you use a tripod grab an old school cable release. I love how Fuji adds these screw mounts in the shutter release however it would be nice to quickly override it in case it's not working.
also got some soft shutter buttons- which do fall off.
and a screen protector- but I'm clumsy so that's up to you.
I've got about 6 batteries. I got the double charger but it's pricey.
https://www.amazon.com/SHOOT-Shutter-Release-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00MCA191K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472691250&sr=8-2&keywords=nikon+d3300+shutter+release+remote
It doesn't need to be expensive. The cheaper the better haha. The best thing about DSLRs is that it is cheap to screw up. Take ton's of shots. Take shots you know won't work and learn from them in post. I would recommend the adobe creative cloud lightroom/photoshop subscription if you haven't already. It's $9.99 a month for both products and you can learn how to recover a lot of the raw files.
Is this a good intervelometer for my d3200? does anyone have any better suggestions
OP might have a wired remote (like this) but should still plug and play.
Isn't it worth spending $32 for the peace of mind on something like this
I bought this for my 7D (works for 5d), it has been trucking on for years. Never had a problem, however I wouldn't use the onboard backlight for illuminating the screen when it's dark because it drains the battery, which actually has lasted forever. However I just bought this a few weeks ago before the kickstarter fund ended. It's just about the best intervalometer that's going to be on the market. It can do bramping for sunsets and sunrises, plus the creator is planning on making it open source for more features to be added (controlling your camera via bluetooth with your ipad or iphone for example).
The general concept is really easy. Maybe it's just the times I've tried it, but I would have expected the moon to track a little more.
Most cameras should be able to let you do up to 30s of exposure. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but Canons don't have the functionality to go beyond that, while Nikon does (don't ask me about any others). Because it has a million different names, let's just say that if you own a Canon, you may have to get a doohickey to allow for > 30 seconds.
To start, I wouldn't even worry about filters. Just try out different times and aperture settings. If you want lights to have a more starburst type effect, you need to make sure you shutter smaller (larger f/#) and go for a longer time.
Here are some of my others:
https://i.imgur.com/wzt6fit.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/o7wpcxj.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Y1bw0SF.jpg
There are a bunch of different ones but what I think you want is one like this where you can lock that shutter button. Ideally if you can get one that’s JUST the shutter release so you’re not fiddling with other settings....
Edit: this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LZxBCb5PBM1ZZ
This may not be the exact one you need, check the compatibility.
I also have a D3100. To keep the shutter open for an arbitrary amount of time, you need to use the Bulb shutter setting. Go into Manual mode and "slow" the shutter speed to the setting past 30" (30 seconds). In Bulb setting, the shutter stays open as long as the shutter release button is depressed. If you want to do long exposures without camera shake, you're going to need to buy a shutter release cable. I use the Nikon MC-DC2, and I think that's the only one that works with the D3100.
As for seeing Live View (or the viewfinder) while the camera is at ground level, there are accessories you can buy, like this expensive one. I don't know of any others off the top of my head. I'm sure you'll be able to find something with a bit of searching, though.
That's not what wifi means; it has nothing to do with a data plan. You can communicate between your camera and your phone by wifi.
You don't need infrared--most cameras don't have that. You can also use a radio remote, like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-TW-283-S2-Wireless-Shutter/dp/B017GY5KWA
I had that same issue! I bought a cheap remote on Amazon and it is amazing, fixed all of the issues, and honestly, I prefer it. It’s wireless and has a physical shutter button instead of a display with no feedback, plus it doesn’t make any changes to your settings because it basically acts like a normal trigger
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GY5KWA
Yup, you need an intervalometer. Here's a cheap one that I have:
>Neewer Digital Timer Remote Shutter Release Trigger(Replacement for MC-DC2)for Nikon D90 D5000 D5200 D7100 D4 Digital Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA
Oh okay. The one i'm looking at on Amazon has a shutter lock and unlock as well. I'm guessing that would just allow me to lock the button so the shutter doesn't open?
https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-Mcable-Mechanical-Photography-Exposures/dp/B008OD1BNK/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1500140212&sr=8-19&keywords=cable+release+shutter
I use these
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aputure-Control-compatible-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y34AK6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417525971&sr=8-3&keywords=intervalometer+canon
That’s the one I’m using (or a different branded version of it). Very happy with it, does the job, no problems. Bought it 5 years back or so, still with the original battery.
This and when you finally go off-camera get this.
Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Digital-Shutter-Release-Trigger/dp/B005LTH7QA
I use it all the time and love it. It will allow you to set a pre-timer so that you can get into your car and then you can set the long exposure time through it also. I use it primarily for timelapse photography. Worth every penny.
If you bought a wireless remote it not going to work on the D3100. You need a wired one to work correctly. This one will work and give you more options than the oem nikon one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y2YTEE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AGZPub1PB96F6
Hey!
I got a little issue regarding my DSLR camera (Canon 4000D) (I know it doesn´t have a good reputation, but I just got started in photography and didn´t wanna spend too much money on my first camera)... So, the problem is, that I recently bought an intervalometer for my Canon 4000D to get started in taking time-lapses, but soon after I bought it, I realized that there is no port at my camera to connect the intervalometer with it. Also, the adapter cables I got from the package with the intervalometer do not fit.
The only 2 ports that my camera has are HDMI and (I think) mini USB b type. Do you know if there is any possible way to connect the regular jack connection from the intervalometer with my camera? Or connect an intervalometer with the camera in general.
This is the intervalometer I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M/ref=sr_1_4?crid=34LO8ERMFRZWR&keywords=intervalometer+canon&qid=1555961227&s=gateway&sprefix=intervalometer+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-4
I just can´t find any solution online and really wanna start doing time-lapses...
The app does have bulb mode too. You just can't set it. So you set it to bulb mode, and then manually open and close shutter.
https://www.amazon.com/JJC-Control-DSC-RX100-DSC-RX10-DCS-HX400V/dp/B06XBYPJYB
$24, a bargain.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBYPJYB
Would this work?
If lenses are out, then what about light?
Get a flash and some radio triggers, it'll change the way you do things.
I tried a similar thing with two sets of Cactus triggers - it didn't work. Dealing with the poor quality cheapo triggers got to be a pain, especially if one part of a set died.
I ended up buying these transceivers, which are freaking awesome. I get ~100yd range out of them, and they also work as a remote cable release.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CIRTH4/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details
is what i have now, and
http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_b
is what i was gonna look into getting. but someone below said he uses something that is almost as just as cheap so maybe these might work? what do you think?
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1334613115&sr=8-4
Sorry, not sure if its worth selling them separately, the trigger are only $25 on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/RF-603-Wireless-Transceiver-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0099SGFZI )
I admire your ingenuity but dude.
:-)
Can you connect some kind of remote to the camera? The connector looks something like a headphone jack, but it would probably be easiest to just search for name_of_camera remote on amazon - it should look similar to this and would allow you to expose however long you wish, for a set length or in an interval.
Although just having a longer exposure isn't actually as helpful as you might think - the trails just start overlapping (this is 92s) and at some point the pictures just kind of all look the same - having control of exactly when the exposure starts and ends is very nice.
I found them on Amazon. $30 is a fine price, but I'm getting 2 pieces, so that's my camera and one flash, correct? If I pick up a second flash (SB-28 or another recommendation), I'd need another set-of-two RF-603's, correct?
What justifies the high cost of the Manfrotto tripods? The legs cost ~$150 and the Ball head is another $100 or so. Also, would a fisheye lens be suitable for astrophotography?
Comment: The D3100 does not have an IR receiver, thus a cord release is necessary:
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-MC-DC2-Release-Digital-Cameras/dp/B001F6TXME/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346031587&sr=1-4&keywords=nikon+remote
I don't really know whether ones better than the other. I owned a D40 but I've never used a D70 nor really looked at them.
You can do a quick comparison here - http://snapsort.com/compare/Nikon_D40-vs-Nikon_D70
But either way, you are better investing in lenses rather than the body. So I would say get whatever one is cheapest so you have more money for a good lens.
I'm not really sure what to recommend in terms of continuous lighting as everything cheap I've used has always sucked but you could pick up a Yongnuo flash. The set up with a flash would probably be about £75 (There iwll be cheapest places for some of this stuff).
This might be a bit over kill to begin with but some links anyway just in case:
flash and triggers:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN-560-II-ELECTRONIC-SPEEDLIGHT/dp/B009APY9TO/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/
Stand, bracket and umbrella:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Photography-Light-professional-studio-photolamps/dp/B0011363NS/ref=pd_bxgy_ph_img_z
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flash-Shoe-Umbrella-Light-Stand-Holder-Bracket-Mount-B-/390442523341?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item5ae8301acd
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33-Studio-Flash-Translucent-White-Diffuser-Umbrella-/190507468777?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item2c5b2147e9
If you're solid about the $100 point, I'd recommend a YongNuo 560III for $60ish, Yongnuo YN603 wireless triggers for $30, and a CowboyStudio Speedlite Umbrella Kit for another $30.
All in all, $120. You could do sub-$100 with a Neewer TT560 flash, or a Neewer C180 monolight, which are decent, I use them all the time. Or if you can stretch I got plenty of recommendations. Cheap lighting is my thing.
The lens is reviewed here, and I used a el cheapo intervalometer that works perfectly.
The Yongnuo RF-603 (sold in pairs) is a dual mode transceiver that you can also use as a remote flash trigger. It's cheaper than the official Nikon remote solution, more flexible and I use mine a couple of times a month.
When you're using it in remote trigger mode, the setup looks something like this - and the button on the transceiver not connected to the camera will fire the shutter (it's dual-mode, so a half-press will focus just like your camera's shutter button, but you probably want to focus first.)
Note that there are several different retail packages of the RF-603 that include different cables for different lines of cameras. Some kits are for cameras with the port on the side vs 10-pin connector on the front - although the transceivers themselves are identical.
If you want to go really fancy, there are inexpensive laser triggers that can help you catch really fast-moving targets, but I have no experience using or setting up one of those.
I use daylight normally, no flash. And I use THIS wireless remote control.
Mine is no longer available but this one is similar and quotes up to 100 hr exposure right in the specs
This should be a better option for 4 triggers. You might need to check D3300's compatibility with these triggers. But I don't see why they wouldn't work for you. I got a D3100 and these work perfect on it.
Watch the video review, it is worth it.
Is this a mechanical intervalometer?
If not, would you be able to help at all?
First do as others have suggested and make sure you understand how it is supposed to work to focus, if you find it is not always working right the switch in your camera could be broken. You can get one of these to test it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G9TYHE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If that works all the time your button is broken, I picked up a used 5D and had similar weird intermittent problems then it totally stopped working, I took it apart and found the first piece of metal in the two stage switch had broken, it can be fixed but it requires taking basically the whole camera apart, my camera works great now.
That's great info, thanks very, very much. This is starting to take some (admittedly amorphous) shape in my brain.
Would these Yongnuo YN-622N Transceivers suffer from the radio limitation you describe (RF I presume)?
Or were you referring to the less expensive kind such as these?
Yeah it was. I think it turned out well alright, though if I had enough equipment I would have set up a t2i or t3i and plugged in an intervalometer. I did a timelapse of it with my Canon 7D while I was in Chicago on youtube and can be seen here. http://youtu.be/uCNi22wqjqg.
I like this option because you have higher ppi to make a better quality image and more control with the image style.