Best capacitors according to redditors
We found 138 Reddit comments discussing the best capacitors. We ranked the 93 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 138 Reddit comments discussing the best capacitors. We ranked the 93 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Well the part itself is about $15.00 but you have to be sure it’s a direct compatible replacement (I think this one is but I’d have to see all of the numbers on yours better).
But what you really paid for was:
It seems a bit high, but it’s been years since I had to have the capacitor replaced on my system. Thought it was high then too as it does seem a lot for the inexpensive part.
But then if you paid for a hotel room while you waited for the part etc etc etc.
Buy this and then Buy this other thing and you'll never need Radio Shack ever again.
Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.
I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.
If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)
Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.
Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.
Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.
If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.
And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.
It's almost definitely just the 50c relay. Look up a youtube video on "fix fridge compressor relay hard start" and you'll be able to fix it for like $15. I fixed my keezer with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and now that it has a proper relay I expect it'll last a decade. Freezers are incredibly simple devices.
Amazon has these.
https://www.amazon.com/PowerWell-Capacitor-TP-CAP-35-Condenser-Conditioner/dp/B01F7P8GJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524946720&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=35+5+440v+capacitor&dpPl=1&dpID=51MTzgfISOL&ref=plSrch
A real helluva engineer wouldn't even ask that question. I'm disappointed, but willing to offer some guidance to get you back on track.
In all likelihood, the compressor is fine, and the problem is a failed starter relay. I was able to revive a "dead" freezer I got off CL by replacing the PTC Starter Relay, like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WQFRT1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
Probably the easiest thing to do is buy a Hard Start Kit like one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-Start-Kit/dp/B008YDSH6E/ref=pd_cp_60_1/142-1528411-3970020?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008YDSH6E&pd_rd_r=9159887b-4c9d-4262-bc3d-29a057ef67c9&pd_rd_w=rgcC7&pd_rd_wg=9fJEC&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH&psc=1&refRID=M3750DQ3G24AXTZH74PH or https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Figure out the right one for your freezer; that 1st link has a place to enter your model number. You can just install this and be done, or if that gets it running, you could pull this back out and then replace the failed part, knowing that you're on the right track.
If the freezer doesn't run with the hard start kit, then cut your losses and replace the freezer. Hey GT ain't much for a sports fan lately, but they at least turn out people qualified for appliance repair.
What about this one?
BOJACK Motor and Fan Starting Round Capacitor 30 uf MFD 370V 450VAC 50/60Hz CBB65 10000AFC
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PBWT8LX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gROYDbY89F2F8
I get my parts at Jonestown Supply, but it's likely to be closed tomorrow. After paying $100 for a service technician to install a $10 part just because he had one in the truck I stocked up on spares.
My unit is not a Trane, but if this capacitor fits you can take it and drop ship me a replacement.
Hi! I built a Beavis Board about six weeks ago. Not terribly difficult to make at all. I purchased these on amazon from Joe knows...
Resistors
Capacitors
Transistors
The problem I have is that some of transistors aren't right for the layouts, the capacitors aren't film, and I couldn't find an assorted IC box.
If I had to do it all over again I would catalog all the parts needed for every project on the projects guide or see of there was a list of items the Beavis Board came with and take that to Tayda or Mammoth. It's a lot of work but will be better in the long run.
I'm definitely interested if anyone else has purchased assorted boxes and how that worked out.
Here is your part https://www.amazon.com/Genteq-c3455r-Capacitor-97F9895-97F9895BZ3/dp/B06ZY66QZ5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3PTZME3CFJRC5&keywords=45uf+5uf+370+volt+capacitor&qid=1563048896&s=gateway&sprefix=45uf+%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-3 $15 on Amazon. I agree with just about everyone else here.
Its not just the a single capacitor on the units that is prone to failure, a compressor start circuit usually contains a starting capacitor with resistor, run capacitor and a relay. Often these parts are married to an overload protection device. Last, you can have the compressor itself fail. The good news is that all of these parts can be easily obtained, and there are universal replacements that fit many different makes. Hers is a really popular one, its $12. https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO810-START-Hard-Start/dp/B00A8O0E5Y
And here's a video on how they work. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RamyqjqeLXA
I see this happen with my quads when I get voltage spikes. The caps should get rid of that.
6 pcs Panasonic FM Series Capacitors - 25V 470uf Ultra Low ESR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YQ8N55/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SpNRDbYWJ43E8
Something like this. You can solder it right onto the battery lead. A friend of mine gets a cap holder from brain 3d and it holds it next to the xt60. I've put leads on mine and ran it under the arm or somewhere convenient for the frame.
For straight ham stuff, I've used mostly Gigaparts and DX Engineering recently.
Recently I've discovered electronic parts "starter kits" like these,
that can get a ham a good start on an well-stocked lab:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E9Z0OCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007SVHFXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This.. I have really been enjoying look mum's cem 3340 tutorial:
https://www.lookmumnocomputer.com/cem-3340-diy-simple/
I would strongly suggest getting a resistor and capacitor kit off ebay or amazon.. They're like 15$-20$ each. That will get you a few of a huge range of resistors and caps:
https://www.amazon.com/Top-cofrLD-Resistors-1640pcs-resistors-Assortment/dp/B00WE1FQ8Y/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720878&sr=1-14&keywords=resistor+book
https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1541720924&sr=1-5&keywords=capacitor+kit&dpID=41%252BFAHpNRVL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
The worst part of these projects is waiting for parts. So Building up a little surplus of this kind of stuff will make your wait time much lower..
So I literally had to do the same thing to my MTN Dew with the same three caps. For caps, I used these. what I did was used a solder sucker, my iron and flux to remove what solder I could from the cap legs and removed the caps. Then just plopped in the replacement caps, cut down their legs and soldered them back.
My strategy was to remove what solder I could, but not focus on removing all of it as that was difficult. Just remove what you can and heat up the solder as needed when playing the new caps in.
If you need any assistance with the project, let me know and I'll do what I can.
I had a problem with the 5v regulator fluctuating on my gen L which caused the temps on the bed and hotend to fluctuate by about 3-5 degrees. An ultra low ESR cap connected to a 5v and ground pin fixed that.
That's probably one of the better kits I've seen.
With that being said, no matter what kit you get, get a variety/assorted pack of resistors and capacitors. For example: http://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/
Check Ebay and such to get these cheap.
Boy oh boy...that was a lot to digest.
Purchased buck converter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014Y3OT6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_CgPVzbSTDQYZY
Purchased Capacitor:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073YR6LVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MsIWhGwCefg7m
Not yet purchased LC filter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQHKIOD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.iPVzbESA190T
I had seen a video or two or more that suggested using the buck converter on the Unify Pro 5V. Another poster had mentioned that the FC should be ample enough to serve as its own buck converter, minimizing any voltage spikes. With my limited knowledge, all I can think is: "well that sounds right." But I surely don't know whether it actually does make sense to implement these additional measures.
This is a good starter CAP Kit
And in a pinch for work I needed some resistors, so I drove over and bought this KIT
for $8.
It is nice to have a range of stuff laying around, but you will never be able to stock everything you may ever need.
I dont stock many trannys (maybe 5 varieties), but I do have a few drawers of IC's.
Thanks for the quick response - I'll definitely take a look at the capacitor dimensions.
Where would I find information on the ESR of a given capacitor? I was looking at these ones: https://www.amazon.com/2200uF-16X36-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors/dp/B074LJQRVP/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506185716&sr=8-5&keywords=2200uF+capacitor+50v
Would it just be better to replace the capacitors (both of them) with 35V ones like the originals?
I just replaced those exact caps with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072SSR65V?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
Can you describe the symptoms? If it used to click before turning on, I assume it's the same problem I had with my Samsung: bad capacitors.
Basically the TV was built with poor quality caps that burst and eventually cause the TV to never turn on. Replacing the caps is pretty simple (they're all through-hole, so easy to solder even for a newbie).
If this is your issue, take a look at this repair kit. It includes all capacitors for a series of Samsung TV's, but if you know your model you can just buy the correct kit instead (should be about $9).
I have a decent soldering iron (nothing too fancy, just a $60 Weller) and all together it probably took me an hour to replace the capacitors.
its just a 470uf (or larger) 6V+ capacitor
something like this would work
https://www.amazon.com/pcs-Panasonic-FM-Capacitors-470uf/dp/B073YQ8N55
If you search for fan capacitor 12uF you'll find what you need, just match the form factor. People often double the capacitor voltage ratings so you don't blow one on a voltage spike, so 438 is probably the breakdown voltage. I've never seen one with two tolerance ratings, but I'd go with a 5% for the replacement. A lot of companies sell the CB6621, which seems to fit your needs.
Like you said its a good idea to filter the vtx power source. That's probably what the CAP port is for (there is a CAP+ and CAP- right?). Capacitors absorb voltage spikes and act as a filter. Use a high capacitance low ESR cap like this one
It's uncommon for VTX power sources to require 12v. If you use a modern vtx like this you can just run it straight off the battery without a BEC, with a cap attached in parallel ideally.
Yohii 3300uF 6.3v 105C Aluminum Radial Capacitors for The LCD TV & Monitor Repair 20pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BWCS8LT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NDOWDbZJ6AP1V
I used these to replace them it was super easy and works great now
So I should be good with this?
https://i.imgur.com/jTVQ2W1.png
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0785H6FV7/
Well, breadboards run pretty cheap... And size matters here. Sometimes a smaller board is better, but a large board gives you more room to work with. So I'd recommend getting both! A small board will be nice for smaller projects, but larger boards will be nice for more in-depth prototyping that require more room to work with. And he can always use a small area of a large board when he doesn't need it all... but a large board won't fit into a small boat or airplane if that's what he is doing... So, at a good price, both can be beneficial.
Other than that, he'll need jumpers (male/female), and maybe a ribbon cable. Ribbon cables need a T-board (or equivalent) to connect to the breadboard with, but jumpers just plug into the GPIO pins. With a small breadboard, jumpers are favorable, as they only take up as much space as one pinhole, and they come in many different colors and lengths. A larger board can accommodate a ribbon cable and T-board more readily... a T-board can take up a LOT of space on a small breadboard REALLY quickly.
Word to the wise: if you buy a ribbon cable and T-board, you are going to want to know what type of Pi he has. The original versions had fewer GPIO pins than the B+ and the A+ versions. This means that a larger ribbon cable wouldn't work with the original Pi's. If he has an A or B, a 40 pin cable/T-board wouldn't work as they're designed for the newer B+ and A+. If you need help identifying which board he has, we can help you with a photo or a description of the board...
Also, a resistor kit and a capacitor kit would be good to have, if he doesn't already have them. Most projects require that you use resistors/capacitors somewhere, and the kits usually come with several of the most used resistors/capacitors, which should tie him over for some time.
Then you should get him an LED set. LEDs are nice because they can be used as a "proof of concept" tool. Since everything into and out of the Pi is digital, all you are doing is giving an item voltage. So it doesn't matter if you're using a buzzer, motor, servo, or LED... they will all work interchangeably. He can use an LED to prove that his code and wiring works when the light comes on... then, when it all works, he can swap the LED for a buzzer or something, and everything should still work, just with sound instead of light.
You could also buy him some sort of case, but these aren't always necessary. I don't use on on my Pi, and it works just fine... I just have to make sure I'm not shorting it on anything, or breaking it in some stupid way. These vary so much in design and price, I'll let you search for them instead of providing a link... just remember, like the ribbon cable, cases will obviously depend on the model he has.
Personally, I would stay away from potentiometers and photoresistors since the Pi only has digital inputs. Both of these items would need to be attached as analog items to work properly, and that means buying extra boards for correct functionality. The Raspberry Pi can not natively read analog inputs, so these items would only be frustrating to him since he can't use them without extra parts.
This should get him started in coding and prototyping. If he's looking for motors, servos, or speakers, you can get him those too, but they're not necessary to tinker with a Pi.
There are also kits that offer these items, but they're usually more expensive than they have to be, and they may or may not have everything you're looking for. Also, there are other places to shop for these types of things, but I use Amazon because it was the quickest and easiest place to search for examples of all of these things for this post. If you're smart with your shopping, you can get all of these items for ~$100, and might be able to have them shipped before Christmas... but you're going to have to hurry.
EDIT: Added links since you said you knew "nothing" about these items. This should make searching easier since you can actually see what I'm talking about...
It's the big starting capacitor, inside the box with the fan. Something like this, but obviously get one that matches what's in there already. Mine has three contacts like the link, but some can have only two. Check around locally to see if someone has the one you need, to get it faster.
I'm trying to wrap my head around what's going on here. He's got two variable capacitors? I am not very familiar, could one use two of these set differently?
https://www.amazon.com/Joe-Knows-Electronics-Value-Capacitor/dp/B007SVHFXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465863379&sr=8-1&keywords=capacitor+joe+knows
Brand doesn't matter.
the f in uf is Farad, the measurement of capacitance, so 1u and 1uf should be the same.
Ah..perhaps this is it? This is for the part cooling fan and it is 24v . When I put the part cooling fan under 100% .. it whines so bad. This was the solution I seen, not sure why the post was using a 16v then.. I got a kit on amazon so maybe I can try a 24+ v one? does the 1st number matter? ie. 200uF ? Here is the kit I have, any suggestions? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073DWCKXF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
maybe i need to return this kit and go with this one.. and use a 220uF 25v
​
https://www.amazon.com/Tinify-312Pcs-12Values-0-47uF-Electrolytic/dp/B07JZ2LK8K/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1UNZN8X1JLP0&keywords=200uf+capacitor&qid=1565998678&s=industrial&sprefix=200uF++%2Cindustrial%2C164&sr=1-6
You need a 365pf air variable cap...buy a couple and use them over and over for years and years in many different projects.
not sure how or if it will work for what you're using it for but - you need a relay and overload to start that compressor -
this will get it going if it is from a full size refrigerator:
http://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO410-OVERLOAD-CAPACITOR-Electronics/dp/B000LDB89S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1404426639&sr=8-2&keywords=supco+rco410
if it is from a small refrigerator this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO810-START-Hard-Start/dp/B00A8O0E5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404426755&sr=8-1&keywords=rco810
Sorry about the links, I'm in the US so the prices will be in USD but that shouldn't be a problem. I really hope you find this hobby as intriguing as I do, I started a year ago making little flashlights and what-not and now I'm making motion detectors and all kinds of cool gadgets. If you'd like some guidance or help, don't think twice about PMing me! Best of luck.
> 365pF variable cap
There are a number available online.
Same thing happened to my neighbor. He said there's a resistor in the power supply that needs to be replaced if IRC. It was a cheap fix and it's on the back porch now for football season. I wanna say it was a samsung LCD 42".
Edit: maybe it was a capacitor... I just texted him and I'll try and get back
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Plasma-Capacitor-Repair-Replacement/dp/B0044J4U2W
>So I could use https://www.amazon.com/Supco-RCO810-START-Hard-Start/dp/B00A8O0E5Y
>
>and it should work just fine? Or are there different relays and I need to do more looking to find one to match my model?
Sorry to bother, wasn't sure if you saw it before! \^_\^
[Looks like this one.](New 5PCS 820uF 3V 820uF3V 3V820uf 69mm 6X9mm Solid Capacitor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYX2D7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rLf3Cb17KGAFN)
I personally would go with something more like this. As the proximity to the socket and size difference of the posted cap may cause issues (8mm x 15mm this value is from the data sheet given on the link, not the description vs 6.3mm x 9mm this is more likely than the given 6x9 as that's the only size I found on aliexpress).
NOTE: I don't know what the code on the top is, I'm assuming production code (date / line / batch kind of info).
https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Electric-CMC7010-2PK-Cylinder-Capacitor/dp/B0787YJ2C8
As a cost saving measure, if you need enclosures on the cheap you can get electrical boxes like this one for less than half the price of a Hammond box. Available online and at pretty much every big box home store anywhere. Not pretty but they'll take some abuse.
Also check out cheap cap and resistor sets on Amazon like these and these if you want to go bulk (just examples, not a specific endorsement of products - check around to see what works for you). You'll end up with odd values you don't need and probably more of some than you'll use but it's a decent way to just bulk up on a bit of everything for the first go around. Easier than hand selecting lots of individual components.
This sounds a little fishy to me. I just had my entire HVAC unit replaced because of a freon leak but I pretty much knew it before I had a tech come out to confirm it for me and I went ahead and replaced my unit. When the tech measured mine freon, it was some very low value but not 0 psi.
I have to wonder if the tech attached the gauge in the right valves to get a reading of 0 psi. I'd think the minimum would be 1 psi as that's equilibrium with the surrounding air. Also, how would he know if the leak is somewhere inside the walls in the lines? The most common points for leaks are usually in one of the coils so it's interesting for him to immediately point to the problem inside your walls. With the guy coming out to see you fashionably late, questionable usage with the gauge, refusing to do any work and making excuses, it sounds like this guy is pretty incompetent. Like you said, it was a 2 star on yelp so maybe it was well earned.
I'd suggest you get a second opinion like others have recommended. I strongly suspect that it's the motor on condenser unit as my old unit had the same thing happen a few years ago. My compressor sounds like it was still running but the fan was not moving. The problem was the run capacitor was shot and after replacing it, my fan was moving again and it bought me a few years before I went ahead and replaced the thing. The run capacitor looks something like this and should be visible on the condenser unit after you remove the panel. Pretty easy to get to and diagnose if that's the problem. Just make sure you get the appropriate capacitor for your unit and turn off your power if you plan on diagnosing it yourself.
I hate to say it bro, but you're going to hate those thing once they're full. I've already gone from a tangled mess where I can normally find resistor values in a minute or two, to spending 2-5 minutes reading the drawers trying to find the resistor.
But I've thrown these cabinets away already, the REAL solution is a resistor book! But you gotta make them yourself, so instead get a box: http://www.amazon.com/E-Projects-570-Piece-Capacitor-Values/dp/B00CQOM1IC/ref=pd_sim_indust_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0BJH45V3Y7Z375GZJSS9
https://gyazo.com/d1aabe552c0e304b32a6d46a425ea8e6
maybe this can help as well
I'm having trouble finding which capacitor I need for this unit :(
Would this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/Genteq-C3355R-Capacitor-97F9834-Z97F9834/dp/B008OJRHJG
capacitor pack
https://www.amazon.com/BOJACK-Circular-Capacitor-Condenser-Straight/dp/B07S7LJC68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Ac+50%2B+5uf&qid=1563606825&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1