Best car amplifier capacitors according to redditors
We found 20 Reddit comments discussing the best car amplifier capacitors. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 20 Reddit comments discussing the best car amplifier capacitors. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
For those of you wishing to DIY on this, but need the capacitors you have two choices:
If so, to get the caps you have two choices ;-}
Here's two kits from Amazon, but no idea of quality. That said, almost certainly OK.
https://smile.amazon.com/McIgIcM-Capacitors-Assorted-Electrolytic-Assortment/dp/B06XD6ZZWJ
https://smile.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Aluminum-Electrolytic-Capacitors-Assortment/dp/B071FBZJ11
BTW - I don't EVER do "Affiliate links".
PuterPro
great write up. there are some shortcomings in the authors system which he described quite honestly but offered little to no alternatives. let me quickly re-iterate those downsides so i can explain my solutions.
typical pv solar cells have a life cycle of only about a decade or two. lead-acid batteries have a similar life span and have the added fuckery of being nigh impossible to dispose of cleanly when they are spent. combine this with the diesel used to run backups, this personal grid is almost entirely reliant on the national grid for fuel and spare part deliveries. additionally, there are not enough trees on hawaii to rely on wood burning for warmth indefinitely. the author admits this system (including spare parts and backups) only has a life span of about 30-50 years which is a fairly long time. but if you plan on your grandkids surviving, they wont be able to benefit from this type of personal grid set up.
solutions:
atmospheric electricity can be harvested, used and stored with parts almost entirely built from scrap and it requires only 4 or 5 different parts. all this requires is an antenna that is as long as possible with as much surface area as possible as high up in the air (ideally above the treeline) as possible connected to a grounding rod that ideally goes as deep into the earth as the antenna is high with a motor/generator in between. the ionosphere of the earth itself powers the motor day AND night, rain OR shine(in fact voltage increases during storms). alls else you need is a capacitor/battery bank for energy storage. meaning the system has a lifecycle as long as your batteries/capacitors last and as long as the earth has an ionosphere which can be MUCH longer than 30-50 years if you use saltwater batteries and graphite/graphene capacitors, both of which can be easily built at home using fairly common materials.
https://ionpowergroup.com/proof-of-concept-clips/
robert murray smith has been working on simple yet powerful DIY acid-free battery/capacitor tech for years and is WELL worth looking into. he has a company that sells conductive ink which you can use to make capacitors and batteries out of paper. if you browse his youtube channel you can find out how to make conductive ink, capacitors and batteries by yourself at home
https://youtu.be/pMLcWE6NLgM
how to replace your car battery with a capacitor bank
https://youtu.be/4rjkNcKbEgg
https://www.amazon.com/Shaluoman-Farad-Capacitor-35X60MM-Protection/dp/B0162NYWUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=supercapacitor&qid=1571245722&sr=8-3#
edit: if you dont care about pollution, there will probably be a fuck ton of useless pennies everywhere after the fall which can be used with nickel washers to make battery cells as well
You're right of course, but that doesn't make much sense. Why is a 0.006F capacitor roughly the same size as a 1 or 2F capacitor? This is a 1F capacitor :
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFC1-Farad-Capacitor/dp/B0012BWMKW
Which appears to be only slightly smaller than the one in OPs picture.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-RFC1-Farad-Capacitor/dp/B0012BWMKW
I got this one on Amazon because it went well with my Rock Fosgate subs/amp. You should be fine however getting anything with 1 Farad because you're pushing 1000 watts.
low voltage 8 farad capacitors aren't that big. However a 900 volt one would be, uh, gigantic.
Here's a diagram - https://imgur.com/a/oS7iO7I
And here are the parts (doorbell not included):
I will note that the rectifier and capacitor that I have listed are likely grossly oversized, I just used what I had on hand since it was a one off project, and I didn't feel like figuring out the proper specifications for them.
I have the Sonoff flashed with Tasmota. You can set the doorbell button up as a button on GPIO 14 through the configuration menu, then set the PulseTime option to 2 (0.2 seconds) in the console, so that the bell doesn't get stuck on if someone holds the doorbell button down.
If you are not running large loads, you would not have a problem. :)
If you -are- running big loads, and powering them on causes the Pi to restart (or the LED lights to flicker) you can smoothen it out by using a 24V Capacitor. The Capacitor acts like a high speed buffer, supplying instant current to any large load that turns on so your voltage does not droop.
-----------
24V Capacitor:
https://www.amazon.com/Absolute-CAP400S-Digital-Capacitor-Silver/dp/B0090IFEH2/
I THINK this is what you need. Fairly confident. Found someone mention 50-100v tolerance on them and this one is 50v so should be fine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NTE-Electronics-89212-CAPACITOR-CERAMIC-DISC-1200PF-50V-10-RADIAL-LEAD/254012451654?epid=1902136183&hash=item3b24526b46:g:ahoAAOSwKphcBrxt
Or this, same thing.
https://www.amazon.com/CAPACITOR-CERAMIC-DISC-1200PF-RADIAL/dp/B007Z7KR4U
It seems the earlier DMG used 390pf and the later PIL ones used 1200pf.
Hardware:
Cooler Master 90 degree MB 24 adapter
EVGA RTX Link
Heat shrink / cable sleeve
Wanted to share this as I literally just found out about it. I struggled with making my MB adapter “neat” but then found the CM 90 adapter and it’s so good. I cleared about 3 inches of cable from inside my case. If you must you are able to link 2 of these together and literally move the power cable almost to the back of the case. I purchased two but because I fit a 280 cooler where it wasn’t supposed to go prevents me from fitting. [Amazon Link](Cooler Master CMA-CEMB01XXBK1-GL... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ6B6R1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
EVGA link - moves the cables from in front and away from the main glass of the case and shifts the pins to the right side of the card. [Link](EVGA PowerLink, Support All... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQ1YEYH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
The heat shrink / custom sleeve is cool and I did it at the same time. [heatshrink](100ft - 1 inch Flexo PET... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074GPHW6B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
Hope this helps you like it helped me!
The cables that came with my psu (Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650) had decently flexible cables. When I was bending the 24 pin, I was firm but not forceful. I didn't feel like it would damage the cable at all when I got it into place. That said, I did order a right angle adapter to hide the cable a bit more. Here's the adapter I ordered:
Cooler Master CMA-CEMB01XXBK1-GL 24 Pin 90 Degree Adapter (with Build-in Capacitor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HZ6B6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HRvvDbMN58DCZ
I also saw These that actually say negative on them also. But they look half the height of my current caps
Supercaps are on the market, but fairly expensive. They are voltage sensitive, and need charge balance control. 16V kit sample
50uf run caps are easy to come by. 60, 80, 100uf run caps are around, but harder to find.
Im guessing there is a common for both herm and fan. I dont see why a 40/6 wouldnt work https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Dual-Capacitor-Round-12920/dp/B00C0YRQ88
These are all pretty common size caps, you should be able to find them easily. Found some on both Amazon and Ebay, you can also go to Digikey or even your local Radio Shack.
Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Capacitor-10uf-16V-Electrolytic-USA/dp/B008GVR0VW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368981866&sr=8-1&keywords=10uf+16v+capacitor
http://www.amazon.com/220uF-High-Temp-Radial-Capacitor/dp/B0002ZP9AE/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1368982013&sr=1-1&keywords=220uf+16v+capacitor
I would not use the 1000uF as replacements for any of the caps you need.
The 850w rating is likely peak output of the amp, meaning your math is correct for the max draw, but the average current will likely be much lower. Since the amp won't pass any DC component, the average current over a small window of time (longer than the period of the lowest frequency present in the signal) can't be more than half the peak current.
Also, it turns out computer power supplies are a great source of cheap 12V power. This might work: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817822013 It will give you 40A on the +12V rail. In order to handle the 86A peaks, you can add a big capacitor. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Acoustik-PC1-5F-Digital-Capacitor/dp/B002YT84QM
I have an old car sub/amp at home that I run off a power supply I pulled from a pile of computers going to the trash. I don't have a cap on it and it works just fine.
A couple of notes on how to actually use a computer PSU: You will need all the black wires (ground) all the yellow wires (+12V) and the one green wire that is supposed to go to the motherboard. The green wire turns on the PSU when it is shorted to ground (one of the black wires). I opened up the case of mine and cut all the wires that I didn't need to keep things clean. I also added a switch between green and one of the ground wires to turn it on and off.
Good luck!
Yeah, the car audio world is a little silly sometimes. They are sold to be a bandaid for dimming lights. Really the problem is undersized alternators and connections. I have some suspicions that a cap that size actually makes things worse, and I question some of the specs on these things. https://www.amazon.com/PLCAPE50-Farad-Digital-Power-Capacitor/dp/B001Q5SMEE/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3JMTM7KAWAGBG&keywords=farad+capacitor+car+audio&qid=1549719861&s=gateway&sprefix=farad+capacitor%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-2
This one?
Sounds like you may be a true Audiophile like myself!!! If so, you also realized the factory stereo/equipment is garbage. I took the liberty of fixing that. After many hours and iterations, I finally ended up with a great stereo! You have many great questions, and there is not a single answer for all of them, as it really depends on what you are looking to spend and what you are looking to get out of it.
The stock speakers really are not super bad... but, if you shooting for a budget upgrade. I would simply replace the HU, that is the most important piece of a stereo... as it controls the quality of sound your speakers will play. The problem with this, is that the factory Amp inside the car... doesn't play nice with aftermarket stereos. It uses a wire for its low voltage out (instead of a pre out low voltage that most aftermarket stereos will use) So I would recommend getting a HU AND a small 4 channel amp.Next would be getting into the realm of subwoofers. These can make a big difference and add a lot more range in a stereo system. Especially because it means that your other speakers in the car no longer need to play lower frequencies, and can focus on the higher range frequencies (which they handle much better). A sub would require yet another amp (you can also get a single amp that powers both 4 channels and a sub if you prefer..). Then of course getting a sub(s) and the enclosure to go in, and you will need an amp wiring kit to get all the power to it.
I would start with these items, if your not happy with it... you can continue to upgrade... better speakers and bigger amps etc.. but this should get you off to a great start. Something most people forget when wanting to improve their audio, is that it is only as good as the SOURCE you are feeding it. Meaning if you have crappy slow internet speeds, and streaming a terrible bit rate from Pandora.... via bluetooth. Your quality is still going to be sub-par at best... even with all the upgrades... when comparing to playing a losslless/FLAC audio file that is directly connected and has no compression.
​
This is my setup:
HU: Alpine ILX-207
Front Speakers: Focal ES 165KX3
Rear Speakers: Focal Polyglass 100 CVX
SUB's: two JL Audio 10W6v3
4 Channel Amp: Alpine PDX F4
Sub Amp: Alpine PDX M12
Capacitor: Rockford RFC10HB
I retained the factory MIC, Backup Cam, Aux port, USB port and also ran an HDMI to the glove compartment box.
~$5300 (not included extras like wiring/dynamat/adapters/dash kits etc...)~1500 Watts (RMS)
If you have any questions regarding aftermarket stereos, let me know. I have done all the work myself and have countless hours and configurations to make it all work.
Found it, I think.. The "Dual cap tester" I'd never use it or recommend it, but here it is nonetheless.
Supco MFD10 Digital Capacitor Tester with LED Display, 0.01 to 10000mF Range, 5% Accuracy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDF97U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ktkzDbMJVV6G1
Edit: Not it as it turns out. But interesting nonetheless