Best car amplifier fuse holders according to redditors
We found 27 Reddit comments discussing the best car amplifier fuse holders. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 27 Reddit comments discussing the best car amplifier fuse holders. We ranked the 14 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
An overengineered car stereo fuse holder like this one
https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B01CT4ZJHS
Yep, inline barrel fuse. Looks like this one
Amps use the RCA wires for the sound signal so you just need an amp and a sub.
Like the other guy mentioned, the blue is just a 12v signal. When the head unit turns on it just sends 12 volts and the amp turns on.
You'll need a short amount same gauge wire as the red wire to ground the amp to the chassis. The electricity needs some way to get back to the battery. I bet if you look around under the carpet to the side you'll find the ground wire bolted somewhere to the metal under the carpet or along the side.
Like /u/cancerous_anus said, definitely check along the red power wire, probably under the hood, for a fuse. If not most definitely put one in. Get something like this. They use the old style glass fuse.
No. Do not order and use a 150A fuse with that 4 gauge CCA wire. This is the fuse holder you should use.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XYQWSG6/ref=twister_B00XYR9VE2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Your previous fuse holder likely melted because either A) It was lying against something very hot under the hood B) You had a poor connection somewhere in the chain. Poor connections cause voltage drops. In any decent amplifier with a regulated power supply, when voltage drops, current increases to give you the same wattage out.
I've never used ANL fuses, and my alternator-charging circuits are usually set up with 100A AGUs. I also strictly use manual isolator switches for my personal rigs, and at times, use both batteries and the alternator to run something big via a 4800W inverter. Never had a problem.
One reason for my choice to use AGUs is that off my aux battery, I like to use something like this, as it yields the ability to swap in a spare from the same collection to any of the places there's "big" fuses.
That said, I do like the design of ANLs, as I could forgo the fuse holder altogether, and build my own fuse panel. I just haven't had a case where that was particularly useful, and I can get AGU stuff in-town, same-day. Nothing wrong with ANLs; they're well-suited to the application. Just be sure you're fusing both ends of that interconnect wire.
It's extremely easy to DIY. I'd strongly recommend visiting YouTube. Most customization shops will likely do it, but AFAIK it's not that common of a task due to how simple it really is to do. There's videos for pretty much any popular car model.
A screw driver, some zip ties and maybe a knife or pair of wire strippers is all you'll likely need to do it right.
In case anyone is curious here's what's involved:
That's really it. All that is a detailed way of saying "thread the wire around your windshield to the fuse box then bolt the neutral to bare metal and put the positive in your fuse box tapping a non-critical fuse that's only energized when the car is on."
>What's the danger of doing something like this?
Building on a pre-made unit with a low voltage output takes away so many worries. So assuming that the ATX PSU stays in good working order..
The biggest danger comes from the fact that the unit will happily pump 100 amps into the right kind of short. As the other commenter said, there may be some short-circuit protection, but there must be some range of loads into which it will deliver that maximum power. Whatever your project was supposed to be, it is now inside-out toaster oven.
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>And is there a way to protect from shorting two different power lines?
Assuming you don't actually need hundreds of amps, I would:
There are all kinds of thermistors, PTC switches, and other options for resettable circuit breakers worth looking into, but you'll never regret having an assortment of fuses handy.
Now that you've got MOSFETs working in switching configuration, you might look into enhancing your supply with adjustable current limiting.
- Marsh
In your drawing, you want a fuse coming off the 12v DC converter on the red wire before you connect it to anything else. Ideally, you need to figure out how many amps your setup should draw and get a fuse rated for just slightly higher. Your linked power supply has an output of 10amps so no higher than that. Something like https://www.amazon.com/VOODOO-Gauge-Inline-Holder-Fuseholder/dp/B07CXK6MCR/
Also, what /u/SliceofLie said. I would have separate power supplies. One for the arduino and one for the lights. However, if you add the extra fuse the worst case is releasing some angry pixies from the arduino.
looks like it:
https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Glass-Holder-Screw-Radio/dp/B01M4R7W3S
Or this one. What size anl do I need. 1000rms or the amp itself takes 3 x 35 amp fuses so I'm thinking 120 amps. https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Gauge-Line-Waterproof-Holder/dp/B00Y17SU6O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549042329&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=knukonceptz%2Bfuse%2Bholder&dpPl=1&dpID=41oVWd0N6-L&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
Thanks man after following ur advice, I found that the trailing edge did not give any voltage feedback but the side closest to the battery did give feedback. Running a continuity test I further found out the fuse failed. Whats interesting is that the fuse looks intact from just looking at it. The fuse is a AGU 80 amp 5AG80A
Saying that I have found two problems with my installation that were the likely causes of my issues. 1)I had left the rubber inside the terminal of one end on the fuse holder. There is now a black singe mark inside the terminal. 2) The fuse is a AGU 80 amp fuse, after doing some research I have found that the recommended fuse for 4 gauge wire is 125 Amps. I have went out and bought a new inline fuse holder with a ANL 150 amp fuse.
Thanks for the advice.
Just put a similar setup in my small shed to run lights and a few other things. I put this between the battery and the items i was powering so i could add circuits as needed.
will this do? https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-Line-Fuse-Holder/dp/B01HDX3WAG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=amp+fuse&qid=1564631642&s=gateway&sr=8-5
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Gauge-Line-Waterproof-Holder/dp/B00Y17SOC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1457813448&sr=1-1&keywords=waterproof+anl+fuse+holder
you aren't getting much smaller than this i believe.
No splicing the factory harness... but it does require splicing into two of the wires that connect to the button. The connectors snap over two of the wires to the button (unless I can find a connector that matches the button connector).
Power comes via an add-a-fuse connector, the ground connection works on any screw / connection to the vehicle body, and the button wires are tapped via snap on T-Tap connectors.
An additional benefit is that only changes the startup state - the button still works to turn it on \ off if there's ever a situation where you wanted it on.
Tap a fuse - 1st fuse protects your vehicle, 2nd fuse slot protects your dash cam - allows you to tap into the fuse, and power your dash cam.
I have, here's my install: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/8943153-post48.html
My add-a-fuse: http://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OO50
I am assuming that the reason you want to hardwire the dashcam is because your cigarette lighter is live all the time, even when the ignition is off. If that is the only reason, you do not have to hardwire it, you can purchase a switched lighter adapter and keep the dashcam plugged in all the time and turn off the switch on the adapter when you leave the car.
I am just saying that because you have not indicated that you are interested in hardwiring because you want to use the dashcam in parking mode, and because you have said that you have no experience in car electronics.
However, if you want to go ahead with the hardwiring, I urge you to watch some videos on YouTube demonstrating how to hardwire. Here's one, e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I9FZL8btqc
As to the fuse to use in your car, I see that you have 3 fuses that are spare. You can use any one of those provided that it only becomes live when the car ignition is turned on. The only way you will know that is by testing it with a circuit tester.
So, along with the circuit tester you will need to buy a 'add a fuse' such as this https://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OO50/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1468810452&sr=8-9&keywords=Add+a+fuse
Make sure that the blades of the fuse are the same as what is in your car.
Be very careful when working in the fuse box that you don't short circuit anything. It could be bad news.
I'll show you my setup to see if it will work for you.
Dashcam - https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1484000259&sr=1-4&keywords=dash+cam
add-a-fuse connected to an always hot fuse under the passenger side - https://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OO50/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1484000314&sr=1-1&keywords=add+a+fuse
12 volt to 5 volt adapter cable https://www.amazon.com/WheelWitness-Hardwire-Installation-Dashboard-Charger/dp/B00TGQ1Y3Q/ref=sr_1_3?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1484000362&sr=1-3&keywords=12+volt+to+5+volt+adapter
Run that to the dashcam, add a 64GB microSD and record at 720p.
You should get around 6 hours of footage before it erases the older one. You can spend a little more to get a dashcam that will support 128gb SD cards and get 12-14 hours out of it.
If you connect it to an always hot 12v fuse, you should have no problem keeping the dashcam running 24/7.
Note: In Texas, temp near the windshield can exceed 110 degrees so make you get a capacitor based dashcam if you live somewehre that gets really hot or really cold
Ok so ill be ordering this one.
Could water have potentially gotten to the fuse and cause it to blow? I saw slightly exposed wire where the fuse connects to the wire via allen key that is now covered with electrical tape.