Best car amplifier interconnect cables according to redditors

In my experience, there are two schools of thought on wiring in accessories. The first and most common approach is to tap into the vehicle's existing wiring to power all your stuff off the main battery. This is a terrible thing to do, though, especially with modern vehicles as they can be very sensitive to voltage drops and changes. Plus, it introduces the potential for countless gremlins that will ruin a trip, and may cause your vehicle to not function.

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The second and better school of thought is to design a secondary electrical system from scratch, that is connected only once to the main vehicle and that is at the battery OR the alternator (Battery is easier and way more common). The second way gives you a lot more freedom to build your system, because it all comes down to math. First, start with your power source -- how are you going to power your stuff?

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If you are going to do a second battery, then that's your answer. Find a place to put it that is near the chassis (as in, keep the weight low) and make sure you can secure it so it does not become a projectile. Connect it to your main battery using a DC to DC Charger (CTEK is good, Redarc is great and priced to match, Renogy is good but cheaper and not as widely tested). Then, install a fuse block near the second battery and run your accessories to that. If you want to run everything off the main battery, then instead of finding a place to install a second battery, just do the Fuse Block.

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The Fuse Block then becomes what you wire everything extra to -- literally everything that didn't come with the car should go through this fuse block. It's only connected to the main battery by two wires. By starting with this principle, if there are any problems at all with your accessories, your vehicle should still run without any electrical gremlins causing your rig to sit down, and if you need to totally isolate the system, 5 minutes to disconnect those two wires is all it takes.

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As far as the accessories themselves, the rest then becomes pretty easy -- figure out the energy required to run the accessory (quality manufacturers will supply this info), figure out where you are going to physically install the accessory, and how long the run of wire will be to power it. Select a wire that will be appropriate for the current, and you are good to go.. If you have many accessories in one place -- lets say you want to have a dash panel with 4 switches in it -- then I recommend getting multi-strand cables, like this:

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https://www.amazon.ca/Metra-MC918-20-20-Feet-Nine-Conductor-Multi-Use/dp/B004H1KAMQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=vehicle+wiring+multi+conductor&qid=1563898763&s=gateway&sr=8-2

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This allows you to route one "Master" Cable to your switch block rather than running 10 individual wires. Obviously you'll need to buy the right gauge wire for your application.

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A few other pointers:

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• Grommets anywhere the cables pass through any hard surface.
  
• Shield cables as much as you can from wear and tear so that they don't short out.
  
• Put fuses in so that if you do have a short, power is killed immediately. I usually put fuses as close to the power source as I can. For instance, if I put a fuse 6" from my battery, and run that cable to my rear bumper, it doesn't matter where in the length of the vehicle I get a short -- the fuse will blow at the battery. If I were to put the same fuse at the bumper end, I could have a short anywhere along the length of that cable which could start fires.
  
• Make friends with dielectric grease and use it on every connector you see -- stock and accessories. Exposure to moisture (and the corrosion that comes with it) is the enemy of good electrical systems so this helps prevent that.
  
• Make sure you only use multi-strand automotive grade wire. Some folks I know have wired up things using household wiring, which is usually insulated solid core wire. That works fine in stationary applications but in a vehicle, the wire will move and bend and the multi-strand wire has way more flexibility.
  
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  We are hoping to use the ARB Linx system in our new rig to limit the number of wires we have to run. It's a fairly new option though so not a lot of people are familiar with it -- it might be worth a look though as it could save you some work.

If you are spending $500 on a subwoofer, it's time for a new receiver with an RCA sub out connection and subwoofer bass management.

Best value, DENON AVR-X1500H 7.2-Ch $599 $299. 4K HDR HDMI, Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.

If you really have to temporarily continue using an outdated home theater in a box receiver, Kicker KISLOC Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter $20.

Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99

[4 AWG amp kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RWK4CU-Copper-Complete-Installation/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550159767&sr=8-6&keywords=4+awg+amp+kit) - $49.95

9 wire - $24.95

Additional RCAs - $19.99

4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio

RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.

Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90

Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70

= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350

If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.

I added this to my cocktail cabinet for that exact purpose:

XXONE USB Mount Cable –2 Ports Dual USB 3.0 Extension Flush, Dash, Panel Mount Cable, for Car, Boat, Motorcycle Dashboard Panel - 6ft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJTFSSP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RB2vCbDBT2BY6

USB Ports

You can make that existing wiring work for a 4 or 5 channel amp. You would just need to run the outputs back up to the radio harness or to each door. This makes it easy: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H1KAMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uP6rDb766M3Y5


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8KKR6X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VS6rDbY2JVNC1
I just used this for a budget build recently. It would work with your speaker choices. At a 400$ budget you could do it and the 4 speakers and the speed wire. It will be loud. But you'll want to add a sub to it at some point for the low end that youll be missing

Then i wouldnt worry about it, occasionally some cars come with a stock sub on the roof of the trunk. heres the link https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3VY4QP19C1I95&keywords=high+to+low+level+converter+car+audio&qid=1555692943&s=gateway&sprefix=high+to+low+le%2Caps%2C351&sr=8-4 also are you doing it yourself? It might be a hassle but i did it myself too just watch a lot of videos.

well the line driver is an amplifier too, thus if you turn it up too much it will distort & before you hear it hard distort there will be details lost.

but i've got a set (lighter case of hd400 for home use) & i get into the monochromatics in the air with 'em.

the rca cord you use can really have an impact. i've gone from junk rca cables to better ones more than once in my 30+ years of interest.

clip the blue tabs off if you are serious: https://www.amazon.com/Stinger-Foot-HPM-Professional-Interconnects/dp/B001H1FXLM/ref=sr_1_41?keywords=20ft+rca+cord&qid=1557148375&s=gateway&sr=8-41

Cool, that helps a lot thanks, I was hesitant about finding straight adapter cables for it. :) I do use my headphone port so I was looking to have something in the backside, I ordered this little booger after checking out a few different ones, the next best one recommended was $100 more, so...I'll try this first.

If it blows the speakers, well that would suck but I guess that's just how it goes.

What you are saying is that you have only an amplified subwoofer out on your amplifier that drives a passive unit only? Your subwoofer does not have speaker level inputs?

Well you can purchase a line level converter and adjust it according for a high impedance low signal input amplified subwoofer unit.

Like this

In your case just use one half of the stereo converter and ignore the other side. There are many versions available in all price ranges.

I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?

Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...

Accessories:

• Ford ST Heavy Duty Floor Mats (I live in a snowy climate)
  
• Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12in Subwoofer (600w RMS) w/ Rockford Fosgate Prime Amplifier(Class-D 1200w) + Speaker to RCA converter
  
• no-pistons Dead Pedal, Battery Tie Down and Gas Pedal Spacer (not sure if still available but I have access to a water jet and a machine shop so I might make my own)
  
• Rally Armour Mud Flaps (helps with the salt and grit from plow trucks in the winter)
  
• Tow Hitch + Cobb Exhaust Hanger Kit
  
  Step 1:
  
  
• Cobb AP with Stratified tune
  
• Green drop-in filter
  
  Step 2:
  
  
• Cp-e RMM
  
• Boomba Transmission Adapter Plate (short-shift)
  
• Boomba Transmission Cable Bracket Bushings
  
  Step 3:
  
  
• Cp-e Front Mount Intercooler w/ Stratified tune
  
• Bilstein B14 PSS Coilovers
  
  Step 4: (all maybes)
  
  
• Turbo-back Exhast (not sure which yet)
  
• Cp-e Ram Air Box
  
• Velossatech Ram Air Intake
  

Are you amplifying the door speakers also? Or just the subwoofers? Buy an amplifier that can accept speaker level inputs, or buy a line output converter.

If the Technics Amp does not have PRE-AMP output, then this gets difficult. It can probably be done, but it is unclear how well it will work.

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/sa-103.shtml

There are Speaker Level to Line Level (RCA) converters that are meant of car stereos. But they might work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-RFHLC-Speaker-Signal-Adapter/dp/B009VTDVMU/

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

Though search AMAZON for "speaker level to line level converter" though be aware that it doesn't always return the correct products. But you will see some similar to those above.

If you are willing to seek alternatives, then give us a working budget for those alternatives.

Also important, what is the source of your sound? TV? Turntable? Computer? CD Player? Network Streaming? Other? All of the above? None of the above?

I'm guessing absolute minimum for an alternative solutions is going to be in the $50 to $100 range. But to make those suggestions we need to know what is going into the system in terms of sources of sound. And we need a clear declaration of your working budget.

Then I would use one of these;

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526374993&sr=1-1&keywords=kicker+line+output+converter

With one of these;

https://www.amazon.com/Subwoofer-Amplifier-Receiver-Integrated-Audio/dp/B07942M4MC/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526375058&sr=1-2&keywords=mono+amplifier+home

Probably better to get a real sub down the road, as this is just a "get by" sort of setup. But it will give you some cheap thump if you've got a passive sub laying around.

You have the option to use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uBHaAb3Y593VX
You can daisy chain from your rear speakers or splice into the speaker wire. This device will convert that rear speaker line into an RCA line so you can run an amp. They work really well, the downside is that your sub woofer controls will be affected by any changes you make to the rear speakers. But if you play with the amp, I'm sure you'll be happy with the result. And yes, your rear speakers will work as normal.

There are cheaper alternatives, I've just put a Bluetooth solution into mine this past week.

AMI aux cable $11.99 https://www.amazon.com/OCR-3-5mm-Adaptor-Connecting-Cellphone/dp/B0186YISLO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ami+aux&qid=1565599204&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Bluetooth receiver $19.99 https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Streaming-Hands-Free/dp/B07NXP8BST/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

I wired mine into the centre console and plug it into the 12v socket.

I changed my Bluetooth audio settings on my phone to instantly play music once connected.

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

See that's the problem. That's a single RCA plug.

You basically need to find an output of the amp that is variable with the amp volume. The only output that is this is the speaker outputs.

Your subwoofer doesn't have speker-level inputs, so you need to convert them with these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KCQSW3E/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

You plug the kicker into the L+R channel speaker tabs (along with your speakers) and then plug the Y-Cable into it. Then plug the single end of the y cable into the sub. Adjust the sub gain to your liking.

I am using a powered USB 2.0 hub connected to the USB 2.0 port. You gain 4 powered 2.0 ports with this configuration, which does help out since the Odroid Doesn’t give too much power. Things I hook up here are like all my WiFi and Bluetooth dongles. I do use USB 3.0 extenders on the front of the cabinet to hook up other accessories without having to get in the cabinet.

AmazonBasics 7 Port USB 2.0 Hub with 5V/4A Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQFGJR4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8er5BbDT6HMG4

USB 3.0 Mount Cable –USB Extension Flush, Dash, Panel Mount Cable, for Car, Boat, Motorcycle and More (6.6FT/2M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079LGRQQD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gir5Bb74AS0F3

as far as the behind-the-unit USB port, most people get a male-to-female usb cable and route it to somewhere that the user can plug in the usb cable - there are even widgets specifically for this on amazon. Link for reference:

https://www.amazon.com/Mount-Cable-Extension-Motorcycle-xxone-s-1/dp/B07CJT92NN/ref=sspa_dk_typ_pt_comp_2/134-5995405-7739809?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CJT92NN&pd_rd_r=f5e03f27-b9dd-46cd-beba-07c8b735ef9a&pd_rd_w=TwnYx&pd_rd_wg=QWJEA&pf_rd_p=0412d930-f756-4db1-84d7-01dbac4fd9bd&pf_rd_r=GTZH1VC75C9B14RZZX89&psc=1&refRID=GTZH1VC75C9B14RZZX89&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExUVRSWkRINDc5MUgwJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzgzMzQ0Mk5WMzgyV0lIQlYwNSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTY5NzgxT1NXMUpZTTkyN083JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfdHlwX3BlcmNvbGF0ZSZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

My idea is to attach this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_aBWVCbATTANSN, to the B channel of the Insignia receiver to attach to my AVR in the basement.

Try something like this.

Buy it online

A bag of 1000 is about the cost of 30 at the local hardware store. By the third radio you install, you're saving money.

Will do! I want to make sure im doing this right, I would take the RCA outputs and ford head and feed those into the amp, and then use this wire to connect the amp output to the cars factory wiring to feed the 4 cabin speakers?

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-MC918-20-20-Feet-Nine-Conductor-Multi-Use/dp/B004H1KAMQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542597755&sr=8-3&keywords=9+wire+speaker+wire

Or should I wire the 4 speaker outputs from the ford head into the amp, and then have it amplified, and feed the output of the amp back into the speaker side of the harness?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_113DDX374B/Kenwood-DDX374BT.html?tp=20217&omnews=14403470

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XLXHVVE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H1KAMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The stock radio doesn't have a sub out so you'll need to buy a converter and splice it into the wires to the two front woofers. Here's one I would recommend: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_50mvDb2307B0E

Or do I need the version with pre-out? https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=pd_sim_107_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HEGESS0GF1Z6Z3B9PS40

That's right, derp. I'm going to go ahead and say that's just not the right sub for that setup.

You're right though some variant of this will work, biwiring to both the device and the speakers. I doubt Sonic will be fine with that though, so like I said it's not the right sub for his setup.

its the kicker line out convert off of amazon

So basically the line out converter comes with 5 wires, 2 right wires, 2 left wires and 1 ground wire.

so essentially, if youre connecting to your rear speakers then you connect to the 2 right wires to the right rear speaker and 2 left wires to the rear left speaker. this requires you to cut the rear speaker wire though.

if your car comes with a stock sub, then you can simply connect the lineout to the stock sub and then to your amp. that way u can control the sub level from your headunit.

You can do something cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487621231&sr=8-2&keywords=line+out+converter

or expensive with adjustment:

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487621231&sr=8-4&keywords=line+out+converter

Hi Guys, I am new to this Vinyl world. I recently just bought a Pro Ject Debut Carbon with Pro Ject Phono MM...

I also just recently got my ELAC B5 Bookshelf speakers. The problem is that my speakers only take Speaker Wires and does not take RCA. Whilst my Phono Box MM only takes RCA and not Speaker Wires. I am new to this thing. Any help? Should I buy a Speaker Wire to RCA adapter?

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497481576&sr=8-4&keywords=wire+to+rca

Something like this?

Any help would be appreciated

Thank you. That's basically what I needed to know - that such a thing existed. I've purchased a couple of these on Amazon for $8.33 each:

Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter

I'm sure this is getting to the point where we're starting to toss practicality out the window and I should just get a reciever with a pre out, but would it work to get one of these line to RCA adapters designed for stock car head units and plug that into something like the Dayton wireless adapter? Even I'm cringing, so I'm guessing it isn't advisable.

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC

Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!