Best car amplifier power & ground cables according to redditors

We found 89 Reddit comments discussing the best car amplifier power & ground cables. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Car Amplifier Power & Ground Cable:

u/Carlifex · 5 pointsr/microgrowery

Dein Username prüft übrigens aus.

The Light Units

The Chips x4: 98.6$

The Driver x1: 74.9$

CPU Cooler
x4: 55.96$

Thermal Adhesive Paste x1: 7.9$

4way pin for the coolers x1: 9$

Lights Total: 246.36$

Framing and stuff
Most guys build their framing out of aluminium profiles. I bought mine here from the %%% section:

Every country has its own manufacturers for these. Mine cost about 30$.

You also need cables. The veros are pretty flimsy. so take pretinned gauge x1: 9,95$

In order to screw the frame you might wanna cut holes swith a thread. This will do x1: 8.43$

Be careful these drills suck and break easily.

Screws x1: 12.98$

Wago Connectors
x1: 6.35;$

Were at about 315$.

Lets see what we can do with it.

  1. Glue the COBs to the CPU cooler.
  2. Drill the holes into the frame. You should plan that very carefully. Where to hang the frame, where you place the COBs...
  3. Assemble and screw the frame. It should be a nice and tight framing.
    my frame is build with 6 L-Profiles in which the COBs just lay around and one center piece: Link to Pic
  4. screw on the driver and check the cable lengths.
  5. measure your needed cable lengths.
  6. cut the cables, strip them and connect them to the veros. Watch this video, if you need any help. I wired mine in row, because i chose this particular driver.
  7. Connect the driver output to a Wallplug using three of the wagos. PLEASE BE CAREFUL WITH THE CONNECTIONS!. I had one of these lying around. Everyone should have a cold device cable lying around somewhere.....
  8. Connect the COBs to the driver. Please refrain from plugging in the driver while doing this :)
  9. for testing, place the COBs in your direction on the floor and plug in the driver. U might need sunglasses, im not joking, its bright as hell. literal hell.
  10. Connect the CPU coolers 4way y-cable to a sufficient power supply. Any Smartphone loader should do the trick. You need a few more wagos here.
  11. In my case, i just placed the COBs losely on the frame, and connected the cooling units.
  12. Plug in wall and grow weed.

    You might additional hangers, cold device cables and another power source for the cooling fans. If you decide to buy the MeanWell HLG-320H-2100B you will need to connect a 10kOhm potentiometer to the Driver. This is to dim the light and safe money in vegphase. The HLG-320H-2100A has a build in dimmer which you can access via a screwdriver. I would recommend A, since its easier to operate. You can also regulate the fans of the cooler via a 150Ohm poti. If you dont like the sound, you can run them at 1/3 to 1/2 speed.

    have fun!
u/lpbman · 4 pointsr/CarAV

$140 subs

$95 Box

$115 amp

$60 amp kit

You didn't give a budget, so I went with something middle of the road, high value setup. Walmart is an authorized retailer of Pioneer, so you get a warranty. Cranked up, it will drown out your stock speakers... but you can turn it down to suit your situation.

If you are looking for something that will blend in with a stock system and have no plans on upgrading everything else.... swap the subs, amp, and wire kit out like so.

u/Triskite · 4 pointsr/electricians

The Boss one certainly is, you think the one on the right is garbage? Can you recommend something better (it needs to be very flexible for a DC offgrid application).

u/Bezzle59 · 4 pointsr/CarAV





Slightly over your budget (~$280), but a pretty good combo at that price. You can switch the sub to get the cost down a little more. But, that Alpine will pull the full 500w from that amp whereas this Kenwood sub will only pull 300w.

Edit: Didn't notice you already have a Knukonceptz wiring kit. In that case, this is right at your budget.

u/The_Wikipedia_Vandal · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99

[4 AWG amp kit] ( - $49.95

9 wire - $24.95

Additional RCAs - $19.99

4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio

RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.

Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90

Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70

= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350

If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.

u/burrheadjr · 3 pointsr/DIY

Sure, I will try to list everything here, most of what I got was from Amazon.

$107 HQST 100 Watt,12 Volt Solar Panel

$20 Charge Controller from Amazon

$90 1000W Power Inverter I went overkill for most on this, but I wanted to power a chainsaw if needed, otherwise you would only need to put in $37 for something really good

$11 Battery to inverter cables

$64 35AH 12V Deep Cycle Battery

$14 12V LED lights

$5 light wiring

$6 Switch

$38 Solar Panel Wires

$13 Battery Cables

$16 Conduit Pipe

$17 Unistrut

$13 For the Satellite Mount on eBay

Then figure $20 for various nuts an bolts.

So for me it came out to about $434, but considering that I paid high for my inverter, and over paid on cables/wire (you can use cheaper cables, but I went with the pre-set ones for convenience), you could do it for just over $350.

u/Last_name_Lemon · 3 pointsr/CarAV

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

u/turnoffable · 3 pointsr/4x4

It's not that big of a deal.. BUT, I don't know how much wiring experience you have..

Going on the assumption that it's a 300 watt LED bar... That's 25 amps or less of draw.

You need big enough wire to handle the current draw (25 amp+) and a fuse or circuit breaker and a relay. The 300 watt light will pull 25 amps at 12v so using 30 amp relay/fuse/breaker should be enough...

You will also need a switch BUT the switch is only going to be used to power on the relay and the relay will then "switch" the high current from the battery to the lights.

In simplest terms, you can wire it this way....

  • Get a 40 amp Relay (30 amp should work too, but I like the 40 amp relay better). You can get them with a wire harness so you don't have to run the wires right "to" the relay. 40 amp relay / Relay harness
  • 30 amp fuse/breaker near the battery. That wire runs through the fuse to pin 30 on the relay and this will be the source power line for the lights. Here is a 30 amp breaker you can find at your local auto parts store.. It is self resetting. [self resetting circuit breaker] (
  • Pin 87 on the relay is the output of that power line above and you run it to the red wire on the LED bar (Don't forget to run the black wire on the LED to vehicle ground)
  • pin 85 on the relay is run to ground on the vehicle.
  • Pin 86 on the relay is the "trigger" wire for the relay. This wire is what will turn on the light when it gets power.

    The Easiest way to do this is tap into the fuse box (under the dash) and pull 12v from something that is "switched power". That means it has power when the key is on. Now, run that tapped wire to a switch and from the switch to the Pin 86.

    With that simple wiring above, when the key is in the on position, you have power going to the switch, when you flip the light switch the energizes the relay which takes the power from the battery and send it on the the light...

    Now, you need to use big enough wire. I'm going to assume you are going to need to run less than 10 feet of wire for the high power (the one on the big fuse). If so, 12 gauge will be fine. You can use 14 or even 16 gauge for the "switch" wire and the ground to the relay to save some money..

    hopefully all that made sense.. If you want, we can make the "switch" wiring fancier so you can have lights with the switch and/or with the high beams..
u/IwasDerp · 3 pointsr/headphones

From reading your other comment, it looks like we do have the same issue.

This was the cheapest ground loop isolator I could find on

Although it's a 4 channel ground loop isolator, it was the cheapest one I could find but for the mains conditioner, I couldn't find a cheap one. Do you mind linking me to one? You original comment had the isolator as the mains conditioner link as well.

Thanks for your help.

Edit: It's in frequently bought together section but I can't seem to find a North American one. Do you think just the isolator will do?

u/cronson · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Like /u/effin_dead_again said, please return that Boss amp. It is probably the worst brand out there for audio. A lot of people on here recommend this Pioneer amp if you want something cheap.

Here is a KnuKonceptz 8 gauge kit. I like their wires. I've heard good things about the NVX wires too.

u/87jj · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Don’t get those garbage kits. The Rockford is a really good enclosure but it’s quiet, won’t get you the hard hitting bass. These will help with that a little

Subs: 2 Alpine type S

Amp: DD audio DM1000a

Box: either get it custom built or get a good prefab like this one which is well over recommended space for the Alpine’s. Measure your trunk first.

Wiring kit:

u/ballinoutdagym · 2 pointsr/CarAV
u/HierEncore · 2 pointsr/SolarDIY

Doesn't seem to take long to top them off either.. maybe 1 or 2 hours driving?
This is what I use:
battery switch I run off the main battery:

and I've got a bunch of these on every battery connection and on the inverter connection:

and heavy gauge wire all around:

bigger alternator isn't necessary unless you're looking for fast charging or if the batteries arent enough

u/Kadori · 2 pointsr/CarAV

allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit

u/ssjhayes · 2 pointsr/steroids

If you're spending that much for a brake bleed kit, get an electric vacuum pump for ease. under $50 USD

vacuum pump

12v adapter


I threw this together with the first 12v adapter I could find on amazon. If you want the run to pump better with more vacuum, get an adapter that pushes more than 2 amps. I have a 5 amp adapter and the pump runs like a top.

u/Econolife-350 · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).

Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.

For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.

For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.

Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.

Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.

You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.

u/ollee · 2 pointsr/Twitch

I started with this guy which goes for around 60 bucks. Add in this mic though you can find much more budget mics, I got that used for 35 bucks at a Guitar Center. Some balanced XLR cables, probably 20 bucks of RCA cables and 8 dollars of RCA-f to TS-m plugs from ebay and one of these to eliminate the ground loop on my mixer since my house is old and has poor grounding, it gets rid of that hum. I spent around 150 bucks for rather boss audio. I have since upgraded to an audio interface and a bigger mixer, but the 802 was a wonderful buy.

u/nofmxc · 2 pointsr/Miata

First of all, more PICTURES!

So I saw a couple of other posts and got inspired. Mainly this one and this one.

I used wire and LEDs from amazon. 3 LEDs on each side.

And visor plugs and screws from ebay.

I wired the lights up to the switch as shown in the 2 other posts, which was really easy to do.

Then I wired the lights up through the trim.

I drilled holes in the plugs to fit the lights and put it all back together.

The pictures show some before and after, but I didn't have any pictures from night. The difference is huge, I can actually see in my car at night.

u/Linker3000 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

These are a godsend when working with laptops and other mains-powered portable devices (like phones, iPods/MP3 players etc plugged into noisy chargers) - I keep about 6 in my stage audio cabling kit.

Ground loop isolation transformers. Example on Amazon:

u/Vox_Atomic · 2 pointsr/edmproduction

I had the exact same issue with my monitors and it turned out to be a ground loop problem. Bought myself one of these and it completely fixed the issue.

u/dooshbox · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Knuconceptz Wiring Better than stinger and costs less.
AudioTechnix Sound Deadener

u/abductee92 · 2 pointsr/cars

Item | Price
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557

That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.

u/Tec_ · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Car Audio Fabrication and sonicelectronix have great how to car audio videos. But I won't bull shit you, a 4ch amp install is a lot of work.

I'll do my best to explain what's involved though and I'm gonna use some pictures to try and better get my point across because sometimes I don't even understand what im typeing.

So if you have a non factory amplified set up it will look something like this. The radio will have a plug in it that has a pair of wires for each speaker, a positive and a negative. A factory amplified system will look something like this. The set of speaker wires running out of the factory radio will run into the factory amp and then on out to each speaker. An aftermarket amp can be installed in both situations but the install will differ slightly.

One of the first things you'll need is an amp hook up kit. It has the power wire, fuse holder, ground wire, and a set of RCAs you can use to set up your amp. If you plan on adding a second amp for a sub at a later point you may want to consider buying a bigger power wire (smaller number = bigger) and run it back to a distrabution block so you won't have to do a second run later. You'll run the power wire with a fuse on it from the positive terminal of your battery through your firewall back to where you'll place your amp. Sometimes you'll be able to find a existing grommet to run the wire through and other times you may have to drill your own hole. For the ground you'll find a nice solid chunk of the car to clean the paint off and then using a bolt or screws attach the ground wire to the car.

Next thing to consider will be how to get a signal form your factory radio into your aftermarket amp. Aftermarket radios use RCA outputs but factory radio don't have them. So you'll need a line output converter (LOC). They come in all kinds of flavor from basic that will just drop the speaker level signal to something the amp wants to see to advanced that will give you some added control over your audio signal. What you'll do is cut the speaker outputs from your radio and run them into the corresponding inputs on the LOC. This can get tricky because the factory colors for the speaker wires are not standard to aftermarket color codes. You'll have to do some homework to find out what colors are what wires for your factory radio. While you're behind the radio you'll also grab the switch to 12 V signal that turns on your factory radio to run to the turn on of the aftermarket amplifier so it only turns on when your key is on and it shuts off when you shut the car off.

Once you've got those connections made you'll use RCA cables to run the signal from the LOC back to the amp. Now that you've got a signal into the amp you've got to get the speakers hooked up to the amp. The easiest way to do that is with Multi conductor / speedwire bundle hooked up to the amp outputs and run back up to behind the factory radio to reattach to the wires that were cut that run out to the speakers. All done it will look something like this. The major difference in the situation that you have a factory amp will be that that instead of connecting the speed wire from the amp outputs to the wires you cut coming out of the factory radio you will go to the wires coming out of the factory amp, like this.

Once the connections have been made it's time to set the gain on the amp so that you only provide clean power to the speakers. Sonic has a good series of videos on the many methods to set gains. There is also a guide in the sidebar.

Damn that's a wall of text but hopefully it gives you an idea of what's involved. If you don't feel up to it just call around or head in to some local shops and get some quotes for what the labor and parts costs will be and go with the shop you'd feel comfortable with working on your car.

u/Im-Growing-Crazy · 1 pointr/microgrowery

Something more along the lines of these?

Or these ones?

u/ckeeler11 · 1 pointr/CarAV

American Bass


Enclosure will require you to glue and screw.

Wiring Kit

$236 total. I would not go any cheaper.

u/thelegendofsam · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/Bwdzxc · 1 pointr/CarAV

[Subs] (

[Amp] (


If you have Prime all this will be under $300. If you don't I have no idea what it will be as I don't see the normal Amazon price. But this will provide very nice strong low end. Good starting base.

u/ElJefe10 · 1 pointr/CarAV

You'll need a sub, box, amp, and wiring kit for the install. You already have an aftermarket radio, so you don't need an LOC. Unless you get a loaded enclosure, I don't see this getting bought and installed all for $300. Labor at Best Buy is going to be $150, maybe cheaper if you buy the junk they have on sale. Here are some suggestions anyways:

PPI monoblock - $100

Rockford p2d4 - $80

10" sealed box - $30

Knukonceptz 8awg ofc wire kit - $36

Total: $246 shipped to your door

u/ForteShadesOfJay · 1 pointr/CarAV

The price difference is mostly quality and sometimes name. Also some are underrated so while it looks like they can handle about the same some can be pushed to double without issue. If all you want is loud the square 15 inch L7 is a really good sub since the cone design gives it more area (15x15=225 in^2 ) compared to a even a 15 inch round sub (3.14(7.5)^2 =176 in^2 ). That's 22% more cone. The only problem is they are harder to find from reputable dealers since it is a few years old. If you deal with CL or ebay there are plenty of used or even new stock out there.

Watts=Volts X Amps

Your alt should be charging at 14.4 but once you go under load it will drop so not great to use that for calculations. I used 12.5 to be on the safe side as if you build it to match you'll rarely get that low. If you're running a 270 amp alt you'll want to leave a good chunk of that for the rest of the car. Most people say 100 amps but every car is different. If you're running a second battery you'll be fine with leaving 70amps. Also keep in mind HD alternators aren't putting out 270amps at idle so if you're sitting at the light you'll mainly be pulling from your batteries. I'm sure whoever you buy from will give you some idea on how much output it has based on RPM. So basically

270 amp alt
-70 for "car stuff"
xWatts =12.5V X 200A

Solve for x we get 2500. That's a safe wattage to push. You can go as high as 3500W on the same setup (3500W=14V X 250A) but you can see that only leaves 20 amps to run the rest of your car (unrealistic) and assumes voltage will stay over 14v (also unrealistic). So while it will work you're on borrowed time. I'm a huge alpine fan. My old single type r @500 watts in a ported box (1.7 ft^3) would shame most 2 sub setups running at "twice" the wattage. 1k is enough to rattle the wipers off the windshield (my 500watt setup can do this). At 1500-1600 you're flexing the roof. 2k+ is an absurd amount of wattage.

The resistance thing you more or less have to match. Most amps are 1ohm or 2 ohm stable. You can always push higher in fact a subs resistance will increase as it's in use due to heat and air resistance when moving the cone (google impedance rise for more info). The only draw back to pushing it higher resistance means you're losing output. Take this RF amp for example it's rated at 1200w @1 ohm but it's rated at 400w @4 ohms and 800w @2 ohms. Now the amp is drawing the same amount of energy from your electrical system for all of those outputs but your output is all being lost to resistance. Alpine's amps are mostly 2 ohm stable. Most class d amp makers can do 1ohm stable. .5 stable amps are virtually unheard of. 99% of .5ohm setups are 1ohm stable amps being pushed to their breaking point. Guaranteed to void warranty (although not sure how they would prove you ran it at .5). Most people running them are banking on the impedance rise I mentioned earlier but it's hard to calculate how much impedance rise you can consistently achieve so many of these systems go up in smoke. Amps will tell you if they are 1 or 2 ohm stable. Most subs come in dual 2 or dual 4 setups so you can get to 1/2 ohms with whatever sub you chose. I'd stick to 1 or 2 ohm setup until you're ready to fry some equipment.

Here is how I would do it.

High cap alt= ??? 300
Battery = ??? 300-400
SoundQubed HDS315 (dual 4 ohm)
2 = $340
Alpine MRX-M110 *2 = $508 (if you can find a MRX-M240 you can run a single amp but you'll need to switch those subs to 2ohm which isn't an issue)
0 AWG going to your second battery -115 Note you can run 4AWG from the sec battery to the amps.

10 ft^3 box. Will more than likely need to be custom made. = ~150 for materials/carpeting

You're looking at 1700 on the low end. If you already have the alt or batteries just subtract what you already have and you'll have a good idea of what you need. If you scavenge CL you can find a better system for the money as most people sell their systems at a loss. Depends if you're willing to risk buying used.

u/myfrstbkt · 1 pointr/SpaceBuckets

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

  • 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  • A big roll of black duct tape. This
  • A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  • A couple of space blankets. This
  • A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  • 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  • 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  • Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  • Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  • A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  • An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  • Some airstones. [This] (
  • A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  • Some air lines. This, Or This
  • A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  • A water dripper system. [This] (
  • Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  • Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (
  • A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.

    Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
u/Daamus · 1 pointr/audiophile

Is this kind of wire okay to wire up some speakers to an amp?

u/Dolfan058 · 1 pointr/CarAV

For the sub I'm running the Kicker DXA250.1 at 125w due to the sub being wired at 4 ohms, and my future plan is to pick up either the Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D or the JL JX400/4D for the door speakers. Chances are I'd realistically run under 500 watts with how I expect the door speakers to be configured (75w RMS x 4).

Naive question - I already purchased the KnuKonceptz Kolossus 8 gauge amp kit - should I just pick up a 4 or even 2 gauge power wire and a distribution block, or should I return that amp install kit and pick up the 4 or 2 gauge?

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/CarAV


^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

u/CWill77 · 1 pointr/CarAV

One more question, could I use this kit for the big 3?( ) it says that it's OFC and it looks like it has everything that I need.

u/elixin77 · 1 pointr/airsoft

Day old post, don't care.

I bought some Revision Desert Locust goggles off ebay for ~$30. Spent another $20 for a 25mm fan (, some 20ga wire (, and some on/off switches (

I placed the fan to one side of the goggles (currently held in place with hot glue, but might "upgrade" to zip ties instead), ran the wires on top of the goggles (held in place with zip ties) to the on/off switch on the other side. Then ran wires to the back where I have a spare rechargeable battery held in place with velcro. Covering the battery up with the cover that came with the goggles.

That fan puts out 2.8 CFM with not a hole lot of noise, and at only 25mm, that's an astonishing amount of air!!! I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I will be this weekend. The on/off switch is to keep what little noise the fan puts out down, as with these goggles, I do not forsee needing the fan constantly on.

u/Ds1018 · 1 pointr/DIY

I added a 6v battery and whenever the button is held down a relay switches from the stock 12v to the 12v + 6v in series.

5 pin relay:

5 pin relay harness:

I believe the switch is a Normally Open Momentary Switch I got from Radioshack but there's no shortage of them available online.

Here's a good diagram on how the relay works:

Here's a decent diagram on one way to wire it up:

A few quick photos I grabbed this morning on my way out.

u/xTHANATOPSISX · 1 pointr/CarAV

There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.

Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.

Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.

u/spacepenguine · 1 pointr/AskEngineers

You probably need some 2 conductor wire and a soldering iron. I would use a pretty thin gauge (high number) since the MQ172-3SA-CV(30) connector looks like it has really small tabs to connect to. If the insulation is too thick, you can try to trim the outside with an xacto knife. Of course, you want to keep insulation between the 2 conductors.

For example, 20 awg 2 conductor hookup wire. You can probably also find it at your local auto parts or hardware store.

u/illuxion · 1 pointr/CarAV

My old kicker ZX460 was strange, even bridged it didn't have enough headroom with the input signal with 2 channel input even though it claimed you only needed 2 in the manual. I had to give it 4 inputs to get enough input to not have gain hiss. I just used a pair of splitters like these. With that amp you actually don't need locs, you can give it high inputs. If you look at the manual here it shows how to tie in any high level inputs just using male RCA connectors. You could just get a cheap 2 channel RCA cable, cut it in half. You'll now have 4 cables, tie the + and - of those of those together, run one pair to one rear speaker, and the other pair to the other rear speaker. You now have 4 high level inputs that plug into the amp, no need for a loc, no need for RCA splitters, and you can afford to buy decent power cable for the amp.

As far as gauge of power cable, 60A is nothing to scoff at, if you're going to use a walmart kit, I'd go for 4 gauge. Personally I'd use a Knu OFC 8ga which has the 60A fuse that the manual suggest. CCA(copper clad aluminum) which most walmart install kits are, isn't enough for 60A. Some of the best CCA around, the Knu KCA, only suggest 50A for long runs. Though the CX manual wants a 60A external fuse, that amp won't pull anywhere near that much power, so you might be ok using a walmart kit, is it worth risking though?

The only reason to use 2 locs would be to maintain fader control on the amp, since you are using it to power subs, you don't need it. Either 1 lock and a pair of splitters, or the cutting the RCA cable method I mentioned above.

u/Snatch_Trap · 1 pointr/diydrones

This brand is what I always use: BNTECHGO 10/12/14/16/18 Gauge Silicone Wire 600V 30 feet(3ft Black and 3ft Red: 10 AWG,12 AWG,14 AWG,16 AWG and 18 AWG) Flexible High Temperature Resistant Electric Wire Strands of Tinned Copper Wire

u/BlackSER · 1 pointr/Ring

It's not hard at all. Just grab a two colored wiring harness and I believe the ring's plug harness has both a white and white grey stripe. Cut about 4" from the plug and from the base station input Match it up to your new two colored harness and away you go. Super simple! Something like this below>>>>>>>

u/FreeSammiches · 1 pointr/vinyl

All you need is one of these. You don't have to remove any cable. It goes between your current cables and your receiver.

Or one of these. - Same thing, different store.

I personally use this one, but it requires you to also buy some of these adapters.

All of these solutions are the same thing, but through different stores.

u/bananastand · 1 pointr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

Do you recommend a DI Box over a ground-loop isolator? From my understanding, they'll both do the same function in different manners. Feel free to correct me.

Also: Another strange problem I'm having is that whenever I play videos (even on mute), a weird (oscillating?) noise comes out of the speakers for a bit. It eventually disappears, but I'd like to avoid it.

u/stuntman2128 · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/TheDrummingPC · 1 pointr/Twitch

That looks like it'll fix the problem! Wondering if it's just a basic Isolator Transformer, or if it has some additional stuff (filtering/processing) to handle other noises. Was considering getting something like this: which looks to be just the basic isolator.

Looks like I have some options to try now, thanks!

u/nachos12367 · 1 pointr/CarAV

The first link would be the better option. That Planet Audio amp is super cheap in more ways than just price. You'll be better off with the MTX system. Add another $50ish for a wiring kit and you will be set. When shopping for wiring you will want 100% copper (referred to as OFC; Oxygen Free Copper). What you typically see in cheaper kits is CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) which is cheaper to produce but will not be as conductive as OFC.

This would be a good option.

You will not have any issues with getting low bass out of those subs. A different kind of enclosure will achieve different results. A sealed box like you have linked will be very punchy and tight. If you want something with more boom and perceived loudness you will need to be looking at a ported/vented enclosure.

u/deplorable-d00d · 1 pointr/audio

Ideally, use balanced cables (with a balanced source)

But barring that, just buy a ground loop isolator for your unbalanced system.

u/MyGamingReddit · 1 pointr/microgrowery

I am really sorry about bothering you this much, but I was going to order my 18awg wires and a lot of them say they are rated for under 300v. Would that be an issue?

I did see this wire set that is rated up to 600v would that be safe:

I looked into the HLG-320H-C2100 driver more. I think I am going to go with the A version with the dimmer screw. It seems like it would be easier and safer then hooking up the dimmer dial on a B version. Would you recommend getting a light meter or somekind of way of checking to see if I am giving the plants enough light at every stage?

Thank you.

u/bzzking · 1 pointr/audiophile

If I cant use my RCA cable, how is this wire? HobbyUnlimited 16-Gauge Silicone Wire 20 Feet [10ft Black and 10ft Red] 16 AWG Soft and Flexible Silicone Wire - 252-Strand Copper Wire

u/HowSR · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Try this or get different cables to use this, because that works fine for me.

u/shard13 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more:

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: or if you just need power for the sub then

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses:

u/bradenlikestoreddit · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.

So updated setup -
Wiring Kit -

Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine

Amp -

Same speakers and subs.

You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?

u/firebirdude · 1 pointr/CarAV

Decent quality dependable brand. All-in-one setup that allows the quick/easy removal/install. Fits your budget. Combine that with this wiring kit and you're right at $300.

Switch the seller to Rockford Fosgate and shipped by Amazon and you'll get a 30 Day trial with no questions return. I'm betting you'll be happy with it, but free returns if not.