Best car audio & video installation products according to redditors

We found 1,584 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video installation products. We ranked the 366 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page


Car audio & video wiring harnesses
Car electronics speaker installation
Car amplifier installation products

Top Reddit comments about Car Audio & Video Installation Products:

u/amd_kenobi · 102 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

A couple of ferrite chokes would probably fix this issue. They'll "choke" any RF coming off of the cable and stop it from fucking with wifi and bluetooth signals.

u/asilluron · 81 pointsr/legaladvice

I use multiple YI Dashcams hardwired using this:


Also, for the memory cards, make sure you get the "high endurance" kind. I use 2x128gb SD Cards... records for about 3 days.


I also have a cheap UBB distro that has switches coming from the "hardwire kit" that lets me turn off cams in case I'm in a safe spot or I'm backed against a wall, etc.

u/tisboyo · 34 pointsr/techsupport

It's most likely not CB, it's probably HAM (amateur radio). Like /u/a_crazy_horse said, if you ask him, he will probably help you eliminate the interface, although he is not legally required to.

Your headphones and computer are a FCC Part 15 device, and must accept all unwanted interference by law, but that doesn't mean he's not a nice guy who likes solving problems like that.

Onto further diagnosing. Something is acting as an antenna for you, it could be the headphone wire, or any of the other numerous cables running into your computer. I'd start with ferrite chokes and see if that stops it. With the electrical wiring in your house being the longest wire that the computer is connected to, I would start with your computers power cord, then the headphones, but it won't hurt to do both.

In regards to other comments here, 4 watts is the legal maximum on CB, for amateur it is 1500 watts. Also, the police will do nothing for you. It's a waste of yours and their time to try. You can try the FCC, and they would probably tell you to talk to the neighbor first, which takes us back to the top of this comment. But ultimately, the FCC is responsible for things like this.

On a side rant, nobody ever speaks to their neighbors anymore when they have a problem, communication is wonderful.

u/sageDieu · 26 pointsr/buildapcsales

I just dealt with this issue myself by using a ground loop isolator on the headphone plug part:

This actually just arrived about an hour ago and appears to have solved the problem entirely.

My setup now is BoomPro > headphone/mic splitter, headphone plug goes to this isolator which goes to my Monoprice DAC/Amp, mic plug goes to this little USB adapter which made the mic louder and clearer.

I was dealing with some noise and volume issues in the mic, and some noise in the headphones, and these two things have fixed both of those and made the mic sound much better. The ground loop isolator cut the headphone volume by about 20% (just guessing, haven't measured anything) but I had plenty of room to turn up my amp to account for that and still am only at like 60% output volume.

u/DoubleSpoiler · 25 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

When you plug in the Switch power cord, you're going to get buzzing because of a ground loop. You'll need one of these.

u/erebusdelirium · 16 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

That is exactly what I do. However, it's VERY LIKELY you will get an annoying buzzing sound called a ground loop.

I bought a cheap Ground Loop Isolator to solve it.

u/ExplosiveBacon · 15 pointsr/buildapcsales

This will get rid of the GPU hiss. It doesn't help with the slight amp hiss that's a common problem with these speakers. But it does eliminate the loud hissing when your computer is under load/playing games.

u/Hallorannn · 13 pointsr/buildapc

Most case manufactureres skimp out a bit on the front panel wiring. There are old forum posts from the Windows XP era about custom fixes, which, like you mentioned, involves foil. Rear audio panel is usually not [as] susceptible to electrical interference, though.
Edit- some ppl say that ferrite beads or a ferrite core should help reduce EMI

u/ccai · 12 pointsr/rav4club

Haven't gotten my Rav4 yet, but have cleanly installed dash cams and rear reverse cameras on half a dozen cars already.

For a clean install, [get a wiring kit like this.] (

Run the USB line properly above the edge of the headliner to position the dash cam, run the line down the A-pilar trim, and route into the drivers side footwell, hiding the wire from sight. You will need to pull the fuse for cigarette lighters in the fuse box located in the driverside footwell, typically a yellow 20 amp, see diagram on the lid. Then you plug this in its place and add a fuse into the provided slot to keep all the cigarette lighters functional. That will provide you with the (+) line and just loosen a nut or bolt that's attached to anything metal in the foot well and wrap the black wire with the end stripped, around the bolt and tighten it in place, that should provide it with (-) to complete the circuit.

Zip tie up the loose wires and use larger zip ties to keep all the parts in place. Enjoy your clean installation. If that's too difficult, get a ~10ft USB cable that matches your dash cam's and run it under the headliner, A-pillar and run it though the trim and route around as best as you can to the nearest cigarette lighter with adapter or USB port and plug it. This method might work better running down the passengers side, but is the uglier messier method.

u/sprrocket · 10 pointsr/Twitch

Pro tip for the "Static Computer Hum"--if you're using an analog mixer or mic plugged into your computer's line in and you hear an annoying buzz or hum on-stream, you probably have a ground loop (your mic and computer sharing the same ground wire). This is easily remedied by buying a "Ground Loop Isolator" off of Amazon for about $10:

u/Tarpit_Carnivore · 10 pointsr/Android

This is called ground loop interference. You can get a cable like this: to remove the noise. Just be aware this may reduce frequencies, like bass, but it will remove the hiss.

u/[deleted] · 9 pointsr/CarAV

You're getting got. Let's do some quick math:




160+200+27 dollars is 387. Build your own box. But if not...

44 dollars....for a grand total of 431...give or take.

I'd buy each part online...its much cheaper.

u/praetor- · 9 pointsr/CarAV

With the dual 2 ohm sub your wiring options are either a 4 ohm or 1 ohm final load. That amp can't handle a 1 ohm load and will only deliver 300w at 4 ohms. Get the dual 4 ohm version of the sub and wire the coils in parallel for a final load of 2 ohms.

Get this amp kit. The Scosche kit would probably work but there's a chance the wire isn't true 8 gauge and if that's true it might not handle the load. Also, the Knu kit is cheaper, better quality, and will carry more current.

u/DarthSnoopyFish · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Be warned. My Switch gave awful feedback when I went from headphones out to line in on my PC. I had to buy this to get rid of the feedback.

u/VA7EEX · 8 pointsr/amateurradio

This is a fairly common thing. You can attach ferrite beads to your headphones to mitigate this fairly easily.

Typically you would see a single bead installed at the base of the cable near the plug, but you may need to either install more further up or loop the wire through the same bead multiple times if it doesn't stop the music the first time. It also can't hurt to attach ferrite beads to all your cables on your computer/tv as well. Heck I ferrited my network cables (not that that helped me in my situation).

u/sanels · 8 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Be aware that in a lot of situations you may hear a humming/buzzing noise caused by ground loop issue. You can fix this(as i have) by getting a ground isolator like this one:

u/jmattick · 8 pointsr/videos

You need to install a Ground Loop Isolator

That's what is causing the squeal you hear. That's one of many available.

u/blackjakals · 8 pointsr/battlestations

That depends on if your studio monitors start buzzing when you plug them in. If so, getting an audio interface with balanced cables may help. If there is no buzzing, then you should be fine just plugging them into your motherboards audio port using a dual XLR or dual TS (or TRS) to 3.5mm cable. If you get buzzing, you could also buy a ground loop isolator. That is what I did and it worked wonders. Here is the link for the isolator if needed:

u/sharkamino · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you are spending $500 on a subwoofer, it's time for a new receiver with an RCA sub out connection and subwoofer bass management.

Best value, DENON AVR-X1500H 7.2-Ch $599 $299. 4K HDR HDMI, Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.

If you really have to temporarily continue using an outdated home theater in a box receiver, Kicker KISLOC Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter $20.

u/taiguy · 7 pointsr/GooglePixel

that sounds like a ground loop within your car.

go pick up an isolator and see if that fixes it.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/Neobim · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This doesn't seem to be an uncommon problem. It's likely a ground loop issue related to less-than-optimal shielding. Some guy got his replaced and it came back fixed, however this tends to be a rather common issue with such thin devices, so I wouldn't get my hopes too high on a replacement being much better. I also have this problem, but got one of these and it fixed it wonderfully. While it would be nice to not need an external filter to carry around (though it's quite small), I'm perfectly happy with this solution. I've also found that turning on the 'lower headphone output' option in system settings makes it a lot less audible.

u/Spectre_II · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You should try a ground loop isolator.

u/general_0408 · 7 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

You can buy a ground loop isolator to get rid of the buzzing caused by EMI.

u/digitaldavis · 6 pointsr/OP1users

I believe it has more to do with the impedance of the OP-1's output and the impedance of the other device's input. For an example - listen to the the OP-1 with cheap, low impedance headphones and you'll hear a ton of noise. Now listen to the OP-1 using a pair of quality high impedance headphones and you won't hear any noise.

There can me some hum/noise from the output when you have the USB connected, but there is a simple fix for that - a ground loop isolator.

This devices solves alot of the OP-1 noise problems.

u/firebirdude · 6 pointsr/CarAV

You're not going to be able to keep the cassette player. I'm sorry to break it to you, but for the same reasons you can't buy an 8-track player, you can no longer buy a cassette player. As pdb1795 said, you can always get a new stereo with CD/AUX, then use a walkman plugged into the AUX to play your tapes. But I suggest converting all your tapes to MP3 ASAP so they'll stop losing sound quality everytime you play them. Plus you'll be able to play those MP3s without a walkman on your new stereo.

New stereo (all harnesses and brackets included for free)



Front Speakers

Subwoofer depends on how much bass you want and how much trunk space you're willing to sacrifice. It also sounds like you're getting it all installed professionally, which is a smart idea. So figure at least $250 for labor, likely more like $300.

u/wyatt1209 · 6 pointsr/headphones

This is probably caused by poor shielding. Grab something like this from Amazon (just make sure you get the right size) and that might help. No guarantee though.

u/loopasfunk · 6 pointsr/synthesizers

Maybe some grounding issues. I have a similar problem with my op-1 and this does the job Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)
I bought a boss noise suppressor as well but it mostly compresses it but it does the job well for $50

u/SlendyTheMan · 6 pointsr/iphone

I solved this by buying a Bluetooth to aux for my car. It plugs into my USB charger on my car (I have a car charger to 2 USB port that comes with the device) and I plug the aux from the Bluetooth into the car. My phone auto connects and I can still charge my device. There is no delay, no sound quality loss, it's pretty good!!

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

It was only 20 bucks too!!

With this, I also bought a recommended item in the reviews I read - a ground noise insulator. It goes for 9 bucks too. For my case, I didn't see a difference but you plug the Bluetooth AUX into this, then this into the car.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

(PS: I recently got a new car with carplay and still have both of these items. If you'd like, I could ship you these two items I talked about actually! I have no use for them now.)

u/StereoSage · 6 pointsr/Android

Like what /r/jcpb said, try a ground loop isolator in your aux jack. Worked wonders when I got engine noise in my music!

u/SeriousZebra · 6 pointsr/4Runner

I had the same problem in my 06 sr5, I ordered a ground loop isolator and it made a huge difference. This is the one I used.

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included

u/joelaro · 5 pointsr/OP1users

Ground loop isolator helps. Like this one:
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/cobrataco · 5 pointsr/ZReviews
u/leftweet · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I use the 3.5mm jack on my Elite and I also get white noise when plugging in a headphone directly. I got a ground loop isolator (specifically this one) and it fixed the white noise issue. It does seem to make the audio output quieter though and may affect some of the headphones' range, but I'm no audiophile so I haven't noticed anything myself.

u/yannage · 5 pointsr/OPZuser

I noticed that if I have the gain on the OP-1 from line in anything above 0, it gives feedback noise. I also have been using a noise isolator since I got my OP-Z. I noticed even when plugging into my computer via line-in it buzzes a bit. This has helped a lot.


u/DuranFanWI · 5 pointsr/PSVR

Just pick this up and you'll probably still be able to use your external HDD without any signal interference issues:

u/akran47 · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You might get a buzzing noise (ground loop hum) but you can eliminate that with a ground loop noise isolater.

I run the 3.5mm through one of those and into my PC's line-in so I don't have to move plugs around or change headsets, and I haven't had any issues.

u/serosis · 5 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Check to see if the Line In and Mic inputs are muted. If not, mute them.

If that doesn't work try a ground loop isolator.

u/rjungemann · 5 pointsr/LGG3

My G3 works through my car with a ground-loop isolator cable.

An added plus is that it reduces noise for any phone that is playing through the car stereo while charging.

u/Mozgus · 5 pointsr/vitahacks

Just tried the plug-in. Works pretty well. Some minor black frame flickers once in a while on highest resolution with darkest dungeon. Will try other games and settings later. Also you can buy these cheap noise filter adaptors. I used this one in my last car to cure the AUX noise, and it did the trick to cure the audio here as well. Wow.

Edit: No black flicker once I limited the fps to 30 fps in the filter controls via PotPlayer. Smooth experience, since Darkest Dungeon runs 30 most of the time when overclocked. 60 fps in town menus but I can live without that.

I ordered some ferrite beads to attach to the cables to see if they work just as well.

Edit 2: ferrite beads have no effect on either cable. The ground loop isolator box is what people need.

u/Bene123 · 5 pointsr/nexus4

I had this issue as well. I purchased a ground loop isolator, and that fixed the problem right up.

I believe This is the one I bought.

You don't need to tear apart your car, just plug the 3.5mm male end into your auxiliary, and plug another male-male aux cable from your phone to the female end.

u/BossmanR · 5 pointsr/CarAV

I would go for 2 of These Subs with This Amp and This Wiring Kit.

u/out18law18 · 5 pointsr/CarAV

Here ya go....Sundown E series 15 $165

Pioneer amp $170

box $150

wiring kit $ 60

Around $550 for everything, but you could easily knock off $100 of that just by building your own box. or still save some by finding someone on craigslist that builds boxes(every craigslist has 1 or 2)

u/10nix · 5 pointsr/amateurradio

You should first try clipping something like these onto both ends of the USB cable. It might be all you need.

u/elevatedstations · 5 pointsr/OP1users

Do get one of these:

Mine was super noisey.. to the point where I was thinking about getting rid of it, but that cleared it right up.

u/RxBrad · 5 pointsr/Nexus6P

You need to buy a ground loop isolator to plug it in. Something like this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/torgis30 · 5 pointsr/headphones

Does this happen when the laptop is plugged in, on battery, or both?

I have this pretty bad with my desktop rig with my noise canceling headphones, I found that using a ground loop isolator does wonders to eliminate hiss and buzz.

u/Bezzle59 · 4 pointsr/CarAV





Slightly over your budget (~$280), but a pretty good combo at that price. You can switch the sub to get the cost down a little more. But, that Alpine will pull the full 500w from that amp whereas this Kenwood sub will only pull 300w.

Edit: Didn't notice you already have a Knukonceptz wiring kit. In that case, this is right at your budget.

u/lpbman · 4 pointsr/CarAV

$140 subs

$95 Box

$115 amp

$60 amp kit

You didn't give a budget, so I went with something middle of the road, high value setup. Walmart is an authorized retailer of Pioneer, so you get a warranty. Cranked up, it will drown out your stock speakers... but you can turn it down to suit your situation.

If you are looking for something that will blend in with a stock system and have no plans on upgrading everything else.... swap the subs, amp, and wire kit out like so.

u/Tec_ · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Gonna be a tight stretch at that price point. If you could shake loose another $100 you could get into one of the subreddits most recommend set ups.



Power wire

Then you just need a sheet of MDF for a box and any other install accessories you may need.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Its electrical noise from the alternator.

They make 'noise cancelling' inline USB power filters and in some cases what you need is what's called a ground loop isolator on the 3.5mm stereo aux input.

u/lucidyan · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

A lot of noise here. I recommend this thing, that I found in a bunch of reddit threads and it helps me a lot with my OP-1 noise reduction, when I record it directly to my soundcard

u/oj_with_toothpaste · 4 pointsr/buildapc

So my new motherboard has some electrical interference in the rear audio ports only. It’s minor and it happens when I move mouse and the windows around.

Anyway I already went through hours of troubleshooting, I was wondering if something like this would help.

If not, is the “creative sound blaster audigy FX” a decent sound card? It’s a bit more than I want to spend but I just want to make sure this’ll do the job for music, gaming, movies etc.

I have sennheiser hd 280 pro if it matters.

u/Sergster1 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/masonoli · 4 pointsr/Nexus6P

I've had this issue with my phone as well as a bluetooth device I bought (the one in my car died). What you need is a ground loop noise isolator. This is the one I got and it removed the noise for my bluetooth device and phone. Hope it helps!

u/deplorable-d00d · 4 pointsr/hometheater

Analog is the cheapest, fastest, and easiest.

Get a 3.5mm to RCA (stereo) Y adapter in the length you need:

Problem is, you may get buzzing from poor grounding, in which case you'll need to "lift" (isolate) the ground loop -

Plug something like this in-line, after the Y adapter, before the stereo AUX RCA inputs -

or a newer type (plug this into the computer first, then that Y adapter):

u/tropho23 · 4 pointsr/crankshaft

I had the same issue in my car and solved it by using an inline ground loop isolater, as others have mentioned. Here's the one I purchased for $6.99 USD through Amazon: This completely removed any audio interference from the engine.

u/stylezLP · 4 pointsr/HRV

I have this

and tied it into the fuse box with this


Looks great as its design is more flush with the windshield. I have it mounted just to the left of the rear-mirror mount and it still leaves room for the mirror to angle for the driver. Very easy to install and the wires fit into the mouldings just fine.

Have a look at the quality it produces from one of my vids here
It has a refresh rate faster than my LEDs (which is why my LEDs are flickering in the reflection).

u/cvr24 · 4 pointsr/CarAV

I have a 2009 Vibe, which is virtually the same as your Matrix. Apply e-brake, shift into N, then pull up on the dash bezel from the bottom, just below the hvac controls, to remove. Get the Scosche dash kit and any double-DIN fits in there just fine. When screwing the radio in, push up on the radio and alignment will be better. You'll need a standard Toyota wiring harness to splice into the harness that comes with your new radio, then it's plug and play. If you have steering wheel controls, you'll also need a steering wheel interface.
Order everything from Crutchfield and they will include all those extra parts with your order. Here's a pic of my install:

u/AKADriver · 4 pointsr/cars

You probably should have considered this before buying the stereo.

The nice thing is, a '98 Corolla is one of the easier installs. It has a standard "single-DIN" (2" x 7") radio, and any aftermarket head unit will have existing holes on the sides of the deck to screw directly onto Toyota radio brackets.

If the new stereo you bought is "double-DIN" (i.e. about 4" tall instead of about 2" tall) it will not easily fit in your car. Sell or return it and get a single-DIN.

If you bought the stereo from a major stereo retailer like Crutchfield they would have included instructions and a jumper wiring harness that would have made this a no-brainer. If you don't have a jumper wiring harness you'll have to make one. The stereo comes with its male side of the harness; you'll need the correct female plug for your car to complete it. To put the two together, solder or butt-splice the matching wire colors. Do not attempt to cut and splice the car's own wires! For a normal stereo install there is no need.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_MANDOLINS · 4 pointsr/diyaudio

Could be a ground loop. There are commercially available ground loop breakers that use transformers. Eg.

Could be the integrated soundcard. Guaranteed that a decent USB DAC will sound better, and it will probably negate the need for the above noise isolator. There are countless USB DAC's Eg:

u/44ml · 4 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

This is the correct answer. I got this one from Amazon for $12. Sounds much better now.

u/robertsyrett · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

For what it's worth, I haven't had such an issue with my 0-Coast, you might try out different power sources to see if you have a defective unit. If it's just ground hum you might consider getting a filter as they are not expensive.

u/spartan2100 · 4 pointsr/iphone

I had a similar issue, but mine was a constant buzzing noise. I ended up getting a ground loop isolator from the manufacturer of my car adapter (Kensington), but I believe you can pick them up from electronic stores (i.e. Radio Shack in the US) as well.

u/Bwdzxc · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Fellow teenager that listens to ignorant rap music, I am here for you. Your best bet would probably be [these] ( for subs. No box building, good brand, and they get loud. [Here] ( is the amp that will power them. Hifonics Brutus are a great budget amp and will do rated power, and they don't look to bad either. Then you will also need a [wiring kit] ( to connect everything. The last question I have to ask you is, do you have a aftermarket head unit?

u/chll3r · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Kenwood KMM-BT315U.

Its a media receiver meaning it doesn't play CD's.
Amazon right now for $77.

Wiring Harness Metra 70-1761 $5

Dash Kit Scosche $12

$94 before taxes.

Watch This; if you're not comfortable doing that please get it professionally installed (shop around, $80 max for labor on an install like this).

You can find Pioneer BT receivers for less also, I just like the way Kenwood looks.

The dash kit I listed will only fit a single din radio, for double din you'll need the metra kit.

u/djkrugger · 3 pointsr/CarAV

You can get a chinese radio for $30 but if you plan to keep using your car for some time it would be better to go up one notch and put something like the Pioneer FH-X720BT, i know CDs are in extinction but for a little price difference you still have the option.
You need to get the mounting kit, and the wiring harness. Installing it is not that hard, if you can splice some wires you're set, the wires in the radio harness and in the adapter are color coded so you just need to match them.

u/SparXFTW · 3 pointsr/FiestaST

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

u/kethera__ · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

I had to ground everything to everything:

Alternatively, you can isolate the phono with one of these transformers:

u/swervicus_rex · 3 pointsr/ProAudiovisual

Seems to make sense to me, just make sure whatever you are tapping your speakers can be supported by your amp. (I typically give it a 2.0 Safety Factor for power.) Try to avoid sharing outlets of your audio system with anything else (like PC or other appliances.) If you do, you may need one (or more) ground loop isolators

Good luck, building a speaker setup, like a PC is a great learning experience!

u/troublesville · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I have a 1993 MR2 that I've installed a (somewhat period correct) Nakamichi MB-75 in. I got it NIB off eBay because I always wanted one. I'll probably upgrade to something more modern soon, but it looks awesome in the dash. It sounds great when the car is in accessory mode, but...


Onto my moronic questions: The power steering pump is electric on the MR2 and the HU makes a significant whurring noise as a result. Things I've tried:

  • It's definitely the power steering pump as I disconnected its power and the noise stopped.
  • I've isolated the noise to the HU -- if I run RCAs directly to the frunk (front trunk) mounted amps (ACM-4.300 and ACM-1.300), they don't have any noise.
  • I've tried grounding everything to the frame (ground wire, chassis, antenna) and different grounding points. It has no effect.
  • I ran power directly from the battery to check that with no effect.

    I ordered some of these noise isolators to try as they are cheap:


    Any other ideas? Would a DSP take that noise out? I am ready to stab my eyeballs out with this project.
u/DarkMain · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Are the speakers powered? (have their own power that plugs into the wall)

Without actually hearing the sound I'm just guessing but you might be suffering from a ground loop.

A simple ground loop isolator may fix the problem.

(this is just an example, not a recommendation as it's the first that popped up in search).

u/crackhyeyeon · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Like this:

It was the only thing that stopped random feedback noises on my older car.

u/mazdapi · 3 pointsr/mazda3

I have a 2008 Mazda3 too. I'm an engineer with audio experience, so hopefully you find this helpful.

If you're using the stock sound system, this device will work fine; it's a ground loop isolator. With the stock sound system, the frequency cutoff is hardly noticeable - even if you are using the AUX IN with a high grade, insulated cable and lossless audio.


If you're going to upgrade the audio system, chances are that the installer will properly ground the audio components, mitigating the issue.

I used the GLI on my stock sound system for 7 years. When I upgraded the tweeters, speakers, and head-unit, I no longer experienced the electrical noise.

u/shortyjacobs · 3 pointsr/nexus6

That's a ground loop issue. I'm assuming you are sending audio to your radio with an AUX jack.

The charger will be referencing one ground, which will become the "ground" for the audio signal. The radio ground will be at a slightly different potential, though, because the radio ground could be from a slightly different part of the car than the cig lighter ground.

Because of the mismatch, the radio "reference" of ground is thrown off, and you get a whine.

If you really care about it, this sucker, or similar, works wonders. I use one of these between my HTPC and stereo for the same reason at home.

It takes up space in the car, but usually you can tuck it out of the way. It's the size half an altoids tin, so not huge. I actually went into my panel and installed it between the aux jack and stereo in my car for a "cleaner" look.

u/nolimitsoldier · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

That is a ground loop and normal.


u/PaulMezz · 3 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

I had a similar issue and got one of these. Worked perfect. Not as much macgyver of course...

u/stonehands_on_reddit · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Sounds like a ground loop; I had a similar issue daisy-chaining some Astro Mixamps. Put something like this between your 3.5mm cable and your PC: PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator

Best of luck -- unwanted noise is terrible!

u/Trevmizer · 3 pointsr/nexus6
u/spaceminions · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Yes, but you can buy a "ground loop isolator" for $10 that is made to eliminate that sort of problem.

u/Cockur · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

u/joshq68 · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

I bought this guy off of amazon Ground Loop Noise Isolator I use it for my sirius player and phone aux cord, and it silences the hiss for me.

u/TacticalBacon00 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

A ground loop isolator should solve your problem. I stream video games on twitch and I have 3 of these in my setup. It clears up electrical interference from un-grounded electrical equipment, which is why your speakers don't have the sound and your headphones do.

u/Scalla1384 · 3 pointsr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Both g6 and astro need to be hooked up via usb. Then run your headset to the g6. Then an aux cord from the g6 line out (might be line in, I forget) to a ground loop like this

Then connect the male end of that ground loop into the astro tr headset jack (where your headphones used to plug in) and that's it. Should have no issues controlling audio mix while having the benefits of the G6 for in game sound, music and movies.

u/klevenisms204 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

i think you can get a better subwoofer, but thats just my opinion..

but in answering your question of what wires... may as well just go with that knukonceptz 4 ga kit ...

u/Emiliak · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Your subwoofer is 4 ohms and can handle 300W RMS, so you need an amp that can put out 300W RMS @ 4 ohms. I own the Alpine MRP-M500 and it runs like a champ. That matches your spec exactly. Don't cheap out with something from Boss or Pyle, they lie about their specs. Power it with a KnuKonceptz 4AWG kit and you'll have gauge to spare if you decide to upgrade in the future.

u/cronson · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Like /u/effin_dead_again said, please return that Boss amp. It is probably the worst brand out there for audio. A lot of people on here recommend this Pioneer amp if you want something cheap.

Here is a KnuKonceptz 8 gauge kit. I like their wires. I've heard good things about the NVX wires too.

u/Last_name_Lemon · 3 pointsr/CarAV

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

u/BigSherv · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.


Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier


4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W


You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter


You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure


|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|


That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.


You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.


You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.


I hope this info helps.

Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

u/insanemilkshake · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I know you asked about an amp kit from Sonic, but I would highly recommend getting this kit from Amazon.

Some of the low end brands on Sonic that sell amp kits won't give you wire that's as thick as they actually it is (i.e. some '4 gauge' cables will have thicker sheathes and less wire than others). Knu Konceptz over-sizes their wires plus this kit is made with oxygen-free copper instead of cheaper copper clad aluminum, which would provide better current flow and OFC doesn't corrode as easily. It's a great deal for the price.

u/ckeeler11 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I would do something with Sundown E or Soundqubed. Amp I would do Rockford. Wiring Kit OFC.

For the box it is best to make or buy a custom ported. Sheet of plywood is $40 with glue and some screws you are lookig at $50 and an afternoon.

u/UnsexySex · 3 pointsr/AskMen

I have an old Alpine MRP-M350 in my car. Paired with SWS-12D4.

First you have to pick your amp. But it also helps to know how many Amps your Alternator puts out. My alt puts out 150 amps, which is uncommonly high for a sedan. The reason for knowing your alternator is because if you have a weak alt, you will get headlight dimming very easily. No one likes headlight dimming.

After you know how many amps you have to work with off your alt. Then you get an amp. Something like this is pretty middle of the road:

After you have you amp, you need a sub. Pick any dual voice coil sub. Dual four is good. When wired in parallel it makes it 2ohms.

Now you have sub and amp. TIme for wiring. You need a wiring kit.

You will want Oxygen Free Copper, not Copper Clad Aluminum. Pure copper is what you are after. Anything else is junk.

Now you have your parts. Amp. Sub. Fat ass wire (4 gauge).

Run the power wire from the battery to where ever you want your amp, most people put it in the trunk. Make sure you have the inline fuse holder close the battery, within 12 inches.

Next, from the back if your stereo, you are going to run two wires. A remote wire that leads to the amp. And pair of RCA cables also to the amp. Next you are going to run a ground to the amp. The ground is simple because most people just find a bare metal in the trunk and use that.

Then you hook the power wire to the power terminal on the amp. Then the remote wire to the remote terminal on the amp. Then plug in the RCAs into the amp also. Power wire gives the amp power, remote wire turns the amp on and off with your car so you dont drain the battery because its always on. The RCAS give the amp an audio signal. Lastly, you go back and install the fuse, in the in line fuse box near the battery. And now you have a complete circuit, and thus, a working amp.

u/cjk813 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

This is what I'd do on that budget.

Sub: Dayton Titanic 12 $190

Box $57

Amp $166

Wiring Kit $50

Total: $463

With the little extra remaining I'd get a sound deadening kit for your trunk. You could also save money on the wiring if you never plan to upgrade in the future, but I typically like to go overkill on my amp and wiring the first time so future upgrades are a simple plug and play without having to run new wiring.

u/Chris260999 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

amp | wiring | woofer

This sub is arguably SQ oriented. You will need to fab a box. I've installed these a couple of times, they deliver. This is the lowest I would go.

u/rdwtoker · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Here's two options:


sub and amp.


Total: $166.03


amp and sub

wiring kit

Total: $209.79

u/OrcusTG · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Then i wouldnt worry about it, occasionally some cars come with a stock sub on the roof of the trunk. heres the link also are you doing it yourself? It might be a hassle but i did it myself too just watch a lot of videos.

u/countrykev · 3 pointsr/madisonwi

Couple things you can try.

  1. Try coiling any excess length of your speaker wire. The wire is basically an antenna that’s receiving the AM signal and your speaker isn’t shielded enough so it is amplified and you hear it. Shortening the length of the wire can help.

  2. You can try a ferrite and clamp one or two along the wire.
u/MrAkai · 3 pointsr/PS4

Try getting a USB cable with Ferrite beads (sometimes called "Chokes") and see if that helps.

You can also just buy the chokes and put them on your own cables

u/jamvanderloeff · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Probably a ground loop issue. Check that you've got a good ground connection on both the audio lead and the power connections. If possible, have the amp and PC connected to the same power bar or double socket. If that doesn't help, isolate the systems by using digital audio out if your amp has that, or use an optical ADC powered off a separate supply, or use an audio isolation transformer

u/oakwooden · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Just gonna leave a link here to the one I got to solve this problem a while back in case anyone needs it. $8.50 and no more noise.

u/Bakenators · 3 pointsr/letsplay

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

u/jmc0889 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

This fixed my mic buzzing issue when I had my remote plugged in so maybe it could help you. So long as your headset is a 3.5mm one of course.

u/See-Phor · 3 pointsr/battlestations

They are the Eris E5 and they don't have a hiss problem. They used to buzz when I plugged them straight into my motherboard with a RCA to 3.5mm cable without a ground loop isolator. Now I have them go into a schiit modi 2 and have no problems. If you want to use your motherboard, I recommend using a group loop isolator like this:

u/kevster0522 · 3 pointsr/Saturn_Cars

It's called a ground loop and happens on many vehicles. Easiest fix is to use a ground loop isolator like this one.

u/miatamanreturns · 3 pointsr/mazda3

I used this guy for that and it was great. I stuck the little puck over the cigarette lighter hole and ran the wiring under the console and up into the storage compartment to connect to the 12V and aux there. You'll need a ground loop isolator as well otherwise as you RWC you'll hear alternator whine, something like

u/HungryhippoSalad · 3 pointsr/headphones

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.


I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.


I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

u/servedconserved · 3 pointsr/intelnuc

You can get an inexpensive audio noise isolation transformer, like this one, I had noise from my laptop to my stereo and the audio isolation transformer eliminated all of it. It's a classic ground loop issue that causes the noise.

u/warinthestars · 3 pointsr/audio

You, my friend, have a ground loop problem. When you touch the connector, you are grounding the signal.

Have a look at this

u/EdmanFTW · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Because the Switch is technically charging while docked, and you have an auxiliary coming out if it, you will get that buzzing sound. Notice that when you undock it, the buzzing sound goes away.

It's the same thing that some people go through when charging their phones in a car at the same time they have an aux plugged in, they get the buzzing sound(only in certain cars).

Your best bet, if you don't mind paying, is to get a Ground Loop Noise Islolator. Here is one that I found. Unfortunately, your speaker needs to have an aux input or this will be useless to you :/. I'm looking to buy this later this week, as my monitor doesn't have speakers, but I do have speakers on my desk that have an aux input. Good Luck!!!

u/deftdrummer · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

Yep, I have an idea if you're willing to spend $8 to rule it out.

You need to purchase a Ground Loop Noise Isolator which you can then try with each of your various devices.

If none of them exhibit static at that point, then you've determined that indeed there is some faulty grounding or shielding in the components of the phone. At that point it's time for a return to Google if you can under warranty.

If you don't have static with the one pair of headphones that tells me the components are solid in that pair. The other components may be the weak link but you need to rule out the phone first.

The ground loop noise isolator also has self evident uses wherever else you may have this problem. I use one in my car for example.

Good luck.

u/rhinofinger · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I tried all kinds of things recommended here and in the wiki. Could never get USB audio to work properly or finding settings that made the onboard audio bearable.

Ultimately ended up buying this $8 in-line ground loop noise isolator and I couldn't be happier. It works - no more noise! And no config files to dig through :)

u/Jeritens · 3 pointsr/piano

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable and then set up audio playback in your sound settings

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

u/anyones_ghost27 · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

Yep, I have a nifty $20 Bluetooth adapter for my old car and it works very very well. My phone always connects as soon as I turn on the car. I do recommend getting the anti-feedback ground loop noise isolator thingy if you're using an aux port, though.

u/dpirmann · 3 pointsr/audiorepair

Im pretty sure ground loop isolation is going to be the right answer. EDIT - especially since you say it works fine with headphones


Here's another one that works well and is cheap:

u/silvab · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You have a ground loop problem, get a $10 isolator.

Here's the one I have:

People telling you this makes no sense don't realize ("why not just use docked hdmi audio...") that you might prefer undocked play in your living room + big sound, even more so when zelda makes me feel like i'm going deaf while using headphones

u/MutatedSpleen · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Ground loop isolator.

That's the exact one I picked up for a similar situation. Works pretty well.

u/rich-creamery-butter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

What kind of noise are you hearing? Is it only present when you have your charger plugged in?

Switch-mode power supplies almost always switch at frequencies far above audible, though there could be lower harmonics in the audible range. Are you listening to music over Bluetooth or with an aux cable/cassette adapter? In the latter case there might be some weird ground loop going on that causes noise.

In any case the first thing I'd try is a different USB charger to see if the problem persists. For phone purposes a linear charger would dissipate something like 7 Watts for 1A charging, double for 2A. That's quite a lot of heat. The "usual" figure of 500mA would give 3.5 Watts which is manageable.

Have you pulled the charger apart? Have any pictures or a link to your specific charger?

If you suspect the charger as a source of noise you could try adding a ferrite bead to the charge cable.

u/pretzelpup · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

Try adding a ferrite toroid to the power cable. I had to do this in my car. Cleared the signal right up.

It’s caused by signal noise from the power line to camera interfering with the radio frequency.

u/Gizmoed · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Just completely swap the connector to anything.

They make these in various sizes and you could replace it again if it ever breaks.

u/RichestMangInBabylon · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've been using one of these for broadcasting bluetooth audio from my switch. It works pretty well. If you do that and get some persistent buzzing get a ground loop isolator.

It would be ideal if the Switch just had bluetooth audio to begin with, but this has been an okay solution for me so far.

u/dapperkitty · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Depends on the type of headset you have.

For example: I have a logitech g933. It is a wireless one that uses a usb bluetooth dongle. On the top of the bluetooth dongle is an aux port, and there's an aux port on my monitor that I put smash on. Now in order to get audio for me, all I have to do is use an aux cable, plug it into my dongle, and then into my monitor, however you will hear a low buzz or hum.
In order to remove this, you need to plug your aux cable into a Ground Loop Isolator
That will remove the buzz and hum, and will make it so the audio you get from your monitor (the one you are playing smash on) is clear and clean.

That's just my headset though. Someone else did a handy guide on how they set it up, with pictures.

Hope this helps

u/redheadwes · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Piling on to agree. I play mostly docked through a monitor with no audio output, so I've always got headphones in while docked. Definitely got some buzzing/feedback, but solved it with this isolator and have had no problems since.

u/Dart06 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Important to note that if you DO do this method you might have some crackle from the Switch. That's because Nintendo is incompetent and doesn't use high quality parts for their headphone connector.

If you do have that crackle/static, you can get around it by using one of these.

u/kidwgm · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I use a ground loop isolator like this:

Works perfectly.

u/Lumbergo · 2 pointsr/orlando

Car Charger, Maxboost 4.8A/24W 2 USB Smart Port Charger [Black] $7.99

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) $9.69

Bluetooth Adapter Receiver,URANT Car Kit Mini USB Wireless Audio Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver & Adapter Home/Car Phone iPhone Stereo Speakers Headphones Car (AUX in) Music Sound System $10.97


had this set up for years until I got a car that had a bluetooth stereo. quality was pretty good all things considered - the ground loop Isolator helped tremendously.

u/Roppmaster · 2 pointsr/headphones

>So, it should look like this?


>My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

The speakers should mute when the line out is used.

>Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

You shouldn't need that.

u/thewatermellon · 2 pointsr/headphones

You might be able to get a cheap ground loop isolator on Amazon that would fix the issue, like this

u/ThePandaGalaxy · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

If there is an amount of static being picked up, I would recommend buying a ground loop isolator. This is what I have for my setup:

u/KnightMichael · 2 pointsr/audio

>Shouldn't wireless audio be noise free? I figure that it should be immune to noise since the audio is digital.

No! You might wanna google that... TL;DR: Wireless=Interference=Noise

And no, you don't need a mixer board. Since i'm assuming you're using a pc/mac, an external sound card will do.
You might wanna troubleshoot first before making any kind of purchase. You can start by plugin the monitors in different sockets around the house, or taking the monitors to a friends house and see if the noise persists. If it does, this might help:

My recommendation would be an external soundcard with balanced outputs (~$150-$200)

u/Nixflyn · 2 pointsr/Android

We're pretty close to AptX HD car adapters being a reality, so I'd say wait a bit. If you must have one now, there are quite a few regular AptX ones on the market. Just look for one that has a USB type A plug rather than a built in car charger plug. Much better to use your own charger in the car to get fast charge, more than 1 slot, etc.

Something like this. This specific ones comes with a 3 slot charger, which I guess is cool if you don't care about fast charging. My car has 2 power plugs so it'd be great for me and leave room to hook up a dashcam using one of the other slots on the charger, and use my other plug for my phone fast charger.

But still, always get a ground loop isolator. They're usually under $10 and completely eliminate electronic whine. Like this.

u/Gawlf85 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Sounds like bad ground isolation. You either need a better 3.5 cable, or an isolator like this one:

u/Russ916 · 2 pointsr/Lyft

If your playing music through an aux cord while having the AMP charging it will make a hissing static noise. I've had that whenever I charged my phone and had my aux cord in at the same time I solved that issue a while back by buying a ground loop noise isolator off Amazon. Here's a link to the one I bought Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable.

u/mrkhiggz · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I had a similar issue when connecting my Nintendo Switch to my PC monitor where there was an odd static/buzzing noise. I used a ground loop isolator which fixed it. You may also try using the Line-In audio port of your PC if it has one as well and see if that fixes anything.

u/goodhur · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I just used this with a raspberry pi zero w

I chose to not use it. It was a cool idea to have airplay, bluetooth was thinking adding a Logitech media server and player would be cooler. My problem with it was the on board wifi and Bluetooth didn't play well together stuttering and connectivity issues. Using a edimax dongle an disabling internal wifi made it work fine. However it also required USB sound or dac hat for audio out. I considered using my pi 3 but this was getting too large for where I wanted to put it. I ended up picking up a USB Bluetooth audio reciever instead called an ec502 (no internal battery)

The devs work is great and I will box the zero up to use in the house. BTW I highly recommend making an IMG of the SD card after you get it up and running. SD cards can fail or corrupt if simply turned off with the ignition.

Edit also you if you get engine whine for either the pi or a Bluetooth recieved get one of these

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/Peejaye · 2 pointsr/headphones

Did you try getting a ground loop isolator?

I use one of these and I've never had any issues with noise. it will lower the volume a bit though.

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You would plug it in between the switch and PC. theyre really simple.

u/Descartesboard · 2 pointsr/OP1users
u/wantonexplosion · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/Plasmacubed · 2 pointsr/OP1users
u/Copernican · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

I run the exact same setup. For some reason an amp causes a lot of static on the mic.

Something like this can help. Have it connected between your cans and your amp. It will reduce the volume output, but helps solve the static issue.

u/Dingusbartlenut · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch Others have suggested this one in another thread. I also get that darn humming as well, but it's only when my switch is charging.

u/yaboiauggieg · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/stacker55 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

ground loop buzz. usually this will solve it

u/OverlookeDEnT · 2 pointsr/AverMedia

no worries. I will say that this "issue" made me rethink my approach and I ended up routing all my outputs (via 3.5mm outs and 1 optical audio out) with voicemeeter and hooked them up to the streaming PC individually and was able to assign all audio as separate sources (discord, game & my mic) and it made for easier on the fly adjustments on streamlabs.

Good luck! if you do need the noise loop isolator, I bought 2 of these and they worked flawlessly. I'd try without it first as maybe you'll get lucky and your line-in to line-out (pc to pc) might not have any noise issues.

u/evilgeniustodd · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I look forward to your update :D Skookum as frig mate!

u/UCrazyKid · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Get some ferrite cores for the cable ends.
eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black

u/Tychosis · 2 pointsr/Whatisthis

/u/wackyvorlon mentioned to the OP that ferrite beads on the power and signal inputs to the monitor might help, something like these:

They're made to prevent high frequency noise from coupling into the power or signal cables coming into your monitor/TV. You might want to see if you have any on the cables coming into your TV, and if you don't, snap some on there. It might help alleviate the problem, but with EMI nothing is really guaranteed.

u/albatroopa · 2 pointsr/civic

You can get bulbs that fit. They have an LED driver that the wiring harness plugs into. As far as brands, I've got no advice. I bought mine for cheap from some local guy that runs his business out of his house and I can't remember the brand.

Once your install is finished, you're going to want to check the beam alignment and height. You're also probably going to want to put ferrite cores around the wires as close to the LED drivers as feasible, or you'll get electromagnetic interference and your radio will play mostly static.

If you do your turn signals, you're going to need a load resistor (8 ohm, I think) in parallel with your lights so that you don't get a rapid blink.

Example of ferrite cores:

u/TheThirdStrike · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

You could try clipping a ferrite core to the ends of the cable, it should help remove excess RF interference.

Although, you'd probably have better luck switching to Composite A/V cables (if possible).

u/dwarmstr · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

This looks like very strong switching power supply noise. It could be coupled into the SDR via the USB cable or received directly via the antenna. Where and what is the antenna in your scenario? Try turning off any number of electronics in the vicinity to see if it is a particular power supply. I use a USB cable with a built-in ferrite choke on it, and use extensions to get the SDR away from the PC. Getting the antenna away from the SDR will also help if the problem is coming via the USB cable. For lots of other wires like keyboard, mice, monitors, etc. I bought

u/PuterPro · 2 pointsr/CR10


I also use it on the UPPER part of the heatbreak (the tube that goes into the cooling block), helps transfer heat from the tube to the aluminum fins.

NEVER on the lower part that goes into the nozzle, the idea is to prevent heat creep UP the tube, adding some there would be bad, very bad. :-0

JST connectors - I don't think that they will handle the current requirements of the heater. Fine for fan & thermistor, but the heater needs a heavier plug.

I went a little overboard since I had some but this is what I used for the heater (I smoothed the sharp corners & edges):


u/Kirby420_ · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Buy some real 14 AWG silicone jacket wire, (this is what I'm using) and a set of quality XT60 connectors like these.

Ideally you want crimped ring terminals for all power leads that connect to screw terminals, putting bare wire into them isn't how they're meant to be used.

The 14 AWG has enough area so you can solder them to both positive and negative pads on the heatbed respectively, and terminate those with 1 XT60 connector. A word of advice - dismount your heatbed, flip it upside down and put it on something that can take some heat for a bit like corkboard. Heat it up to 60-80C, turn it off, then remove the stock connector and solder the wires. Otherwise you'll get nowhere trying to solder to a room temp heatsink.

The matching XT60 connector uses the same 14AWG to crimped ring terminals, going to the MOSFET board. For reference, here's one I'm using on my printer.

I only removed the power pins from my bed, I pre-cut the connector so I could leave the middle pins and connector shell for the temp sensor attached to the bed, then I could still use that to disconnect those wires. Works great because the little retaining mechanism is in the middle of the connector over the sensor wires.

Pre-tin the XT60 wire cups and the wire itself before you try to solder them together unless you've got both a beefy soldering iron and good soldering skills, otherwise your connector will end up with a faulty solder connection.

Now it's easy to disconnect the heatbed.

u/mandreko · 2 pointsr/Multicopter

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

u/cameronabab · 2 pointsr/airsoft

This is where things get a bit weird for the Type 97. The official battery for them is wonky as fuck and requires the removal of the entire lower grip to install.

I, on the other hand, did some measuring and found these particular batteries. They fit perfectly in the grip, I'm not even kidding. Did some measurements with my calipers and these are the only batteries with the perfect proportions where you can slide the buttplate off the grip (normally reserved for the tool kit that comes with the gun) and slip it in there. However, as I'm sure you notice, you'll need to convert your gun to XT60. Not a difficult conversion, but it does require some patience, a soldering iron, and some connectors. I picked up this pack and it does me just fine

u/Saik0Shinigami · 2 pointsr/lgv20

ah hah... No I'm just a shitty american. We get weak 120/60hz.

What I can tell you though, in my car I get a feedback loop. I have to use a ground noise isolated to filter out the crap. But this should only occur when you have the phone and speakers powered by the same power source. I doubt it will work in your case since your headphones aren't powered, but it's worth a look I suppose But if it's not changing with volume then I would think that it is a floating ground more than it's some sort of short in your phone.

u/spline9 · 2 pointsr/nexus5x

Is your phone plugged in for recharging? In my car, I'll get buzzing through my speakers if my phone is plugged in the aux port while charging off the car's power. A ground loop noise isolator (less than $10 on amazon) resolves this issue. This may help your problem, too.

u/AlexJohnsonWrites · 2 pointsr/podcasts

I've been having a similar problem. Some research lead me to 'ground loops'. It can be a static-y hum often times. Try a Ground Loop Isolator of some kind. I have xlr and this sorta worked for me. A cheap way to test an otherwise expensive issue. If you're not using xlr, you can try more common methods for cars. There's also cutting it off at the source by using an ac jack isolator. Or if you can't afford that, try using noise reduction plug ins from other DAWs. I use isotope to remove my noise now. It's pricey, sure, but it's 10000% worth its price. A beautiful piece of software that's perfect for my processing when I'm not using Reaper or Audacity.

u/Lawaleeth010101 · 2 pointsr/Xenoblade_Chronicles

If you're talking about that weird static noise, you can solve it by picking up a ground loop isolator, which gets rid of the noise.

u/HowSR · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Finally on PC...

So here is what i Use:
Ground Loop Isolator

u/kodack10 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Welcome to noisy grounds, hissing and spitting since 1969.

Buy an RCA or 1/4" TRS ground loop isolator, run it between your sound device and the input of the monitors. Problem solved.


They are about $15. It breaks the ground over the RCA connection which will instantly stop the noise from your computer and DAC. Switching USB ports, and using USB filters are not the best solution and might not even resolve it. Isolation is a common thing to do when running 2vRCA between any 2 pieces of equipment (or using xlr)

The ground the speakers amplifiers have, the ground on the audio cable connected to that amp, the ground of your audio device whether USB DAC or pc, all of these grounds are different, they carry different stray currents and noise, and since they are not a common ground, they act like an antenna rather than a noise blocker.

By isolating the ground over the speaker cables you break the antenna in half and remove the noise.

You've actually just ran into the real reason why XLR connections are preferred in pro-audio. Because the out of phase wiring, allows a signal wire summation that cancels out the noise. RCA and TR don't do that though. TRS (can) do that as it's 3 conductor just like XLR, but it would need to be 3 conductor TRS on both sides of the cable. I know the 305's are TRS, but what you're plugging into probably isn't unless it's a mixing deck.

u/chickenmaster04 · 2 pointsr/MINI

You can buy it here it’s like $40. You can get dual lightning or a lightning and aux like mine. Also if you charge from the car you may need one of these to keep the signal noise from the charger from going to the head unit. All in all it cost me like $150 with the mount and cables and in my opinion it’s worth it.

u/Thepopshop · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I went and bought a ground loop isolator for 15 on Amazon and it works perfectly fine. Here is what I bought

Edit: It gets a lot worse if you are using the 3.5mm as an input into a pc through line it. That's why I needed the ground loop isolator.

u/Link1092 · 2 pointsr/Switch

You can also do it through your PC. That way you don't have to use the xbox controller. I have it set up so the HDMI is connected from my switch to the display, then I use this ground loop noise isolator and an aux cord to run the sound through my PC into my wireless headphones.

u/PotatoDynamics · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Pick you up some ground loop noise isolators for your 3.5mm connections. I had the same issue and these completely solved my issue.

u/mrbill · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Keep in mind that you might have electrical/ignition-noise related whine. If so, this will take care of it, putting it inline with the aux jack:

I use the Anker bluetooth-to-aux adapter and had to get one of these to get rid of the whine in the background when I hit the gas, etc.

u/danbo1221 · 2 pointsr/mazda3

I purchased a similar cable harness online for my 2006 3 hatchback, and it works really well. However, old 3's and 6's produce a lot of EM feedback, so you're going to need a ground loop isolator with 3.5mm jacks like this on Amazon. . Otherwise, if you're charging a phone or accelerating hard, the noise will be beyond irritating! I got one with a long cable so the people in the back seat can connect their devices.

u/dragonx254 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You need a ground loop isolator, like this one

u/PowerSamurai · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The lack of proper social features and the fact that the switch is so liable to electrical noise when docked and using headphones.

To elaborate on the last point. When docked (this is an issue for ME, I don't know whether is a general issue or not) and with the charger plugged into a noisy socket (could potentially be grounding issues for example), and then using headpones through the switch's jackport, i will hear a lot of noise. If I change the socket I use to one that is not a part of my extension cord, I will have a much more quiet experience (the sound will not be entirely gone though, but can be depending on the socket). The problem for me is that I cannot use any other socket with my current setup so I will have to opt in to buy one of these:
They are said to remove all this noise by some other switch users that suffers from this issue too.

u/iTzinmyblood · 2 pointsr/computer_help

Maybe a grounding issue? Every time I've had buzzing issues it was fixed by a Ground Loop Noise Isolator. They sell them on amazon for like 10$


EDIT: I have this one Ground Loop Noise Isolator

u/clips9000 · 2 pointsr/Trucks

The only way you'll get it to auto on/off is if you hardwire it in. Which is super easy.

Is what I used. It's good little camera for the price. The quality is pretty good for watching on your phone..but I found it you try to take the video on to the computer it gets worse.

Just made me chuckle when I saw the little gray box while looking your truck over. Very nice man.

u/caileadar · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

I don't know why you bought such expensive kit and why such problem. Here is what I used to hook up my aukey dashcam. I got mine done in under 1 hour.

u/iPhantasy · 2 pointsr/ft86

There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.

Radio Antenna harness

Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)

USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)

Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.

I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).

You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.

I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.

Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.

u/SherlockCmbs · 2 pointsr/ft86

For general functionality of the head unit you just need Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring... this is what i use in my 2014 brz and the metra usb adapter. I had the pac from a prewired harness from crutchfield but it was annoying.

u/Theguywithouttheface · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

It depends on the car. Most cars made before 2015 or so use a standard Double Din Slot radio (With Double Din being the size of the radio) while cars older than 2000's might have a single din slot radio. All of these radio's are interchangeable and can be swapped out (Sometimes with an adapter kit). The slightly trickier part if you want to do this yourself is wiring up a harness that connects your cars electrical system (speakers/power/USB/FM radio) to the radio you want to install. You will need to find an electrical manual or a guide online to tell you which wires are for what and connect them to the corresponding wire on the new radio.

Source: Replaced the shitty radio in my old Subaru

u/swordstool · 2 pointsr/prius

I don't have a V, rather a Gen3 2013. I had a JVC KWAV61BT put in. Purchased on Amazon for $200 a year ago. Also got from Amazon: Steering Wheel Control Wire, Dash Kit, and Wiring Harness. Had a local shop install it for $100. I probably could have done it myself, but wanted it to look professional. Total cost of the stereo and parts was $275. Looks like Amazon has the DDX-372 for under $300.

u/hncthename · 2 pointsr/CarAV

What you want to look for is a single din head unit.

Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback

Now depending on what else was ripped out of the car you may need a new wiring harness

Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness for 1998-2005 Acura/Suzuki/Honda Vehicles

And a radio antenna adapter... I couldn't find this alone on Amazon. Here's a bundle with the wiring harness, antenna adapter and dash kit


Hope this helped out.. any single din head unit will work I just took the first one I saw to show you.

u/EvilTerabite · 2 pointsr/Acura_RSX

Hey! If you have a cassette player, you're gonna need an adapter which can be found here if not you dont need this! Make sure the measurements of the radio match up, it should fit most single/double din radios.

After that make sure to buy a wiring harness

And then get your radio!

Also this would help a bunch, be sure you have a 8mm socket ready.

u/hfmutlu · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

u/xXDrnknPirateXx · 2 pointsr/CherokeeXJ

If you stick with the 8" (and get a good one with some nice power behind it) I personally think an 8" would do just fine.

I went through amazon, and found everything I used:

  • Sub

  • Amp

  • Wiring Kit

  • Grille

  • Box Felt

    Like I've said elsewhere, I wish I would have taken a picture of the box I built. It wasn't vented, and was about ~25% too small, but it still sounds great.

    Edit: It was roughly this shape: Not to scale
u/onick8 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I bought and installed the 10" version of this model last week in my Sonata with Kenwood DMX905S. the sub didn't come with any cables, other than the harness to connect to the sub. I ordered this kit and used rca output from the head unit. the hardest part for me was to route power wire from battery to trunk through the firewall. overall I'm very happy with the overall volume and quality of bass.

u/soggyburrito · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could try something like this:


But, if that doesn't work, you're probably gonna need an electrician to install a grounded outlet.

u/dGlitch · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Had the same issue. Bought a 10 bucks ground loop isolator and the humming was gone.

u/egamble · 2 pointsr/audiophile

There is no such device that takes an optical signal and turns it into USB to connect to your Schiit Fulla. When connecting over USB, it requires drivers and your operating system to interface with the DAC.

You could try something like this: to see if it will help for fairly cheap but unfortunately you may need to replace your dac with one that takes optical natively, or the scarlett 2i2 and try TRS to XLR cables.

u/Bobmaloogalooga · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

If you use Amazon Prime this is under $10 and works well:

u/bellsy · 2 pointsr/prius

Had this issue with our 09. Bought a ground loop filter off Amazon and that took care of it.

This is the one I bought (or so says my amazing order history):

I'm sure others like it would work.

u/SorryNotKarlMarx · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

This is the one I have. Supposedly they can reduce audio quality, some brands worse than others, but I haven't noticed any problems with that.

u/Teknik987 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.

u/Claclink · 2 pointsr/Android

no, but i know how audio systems work. ive built tube amplifiers, installed multiple stereo systems in cars before, and i'm an engineer that deals with signal processing. for what you are saying to be true, it would imply your amp in your car has more distortion than the tiny inexpensive amp in your phone. which i guess is possible if you have the shittiest amp/deck ever made. read the first sentence of the link below.

the hissing noise is a separate problem. usually due to a grounding issue. this will probably fix it.

u/clupean · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Standard PC speakers often don't include white noise cancellation. A cheap way to kill the interference is to add a ground loop isolator.

u/siscorskiy · 2 pointsr/LGG3

get one of these

u/kindbutterfly · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

you guessed right, it is electrical interference. you probably already have it caused by your car's electronics and the usb cable is just a next source.

i have this one and it works great. i actually have it plugged into a bluetooth dealy since my car doesn't have bluetooth.

reviews exaggerate sound quality issues like quieter or low bass. i mean, turn it up or turn up your bass.

u/FrighteningEdge · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

The way I did my setup was to run a 3.5mm aux cable from my gaming pc’s green stereo drive port on the back of the motherboard into a grounded loop noise isolator like this one to help the popping and static when transitioning from digital to analog,

Then I ran the 3.5mm end of the ground loop into the red microphone port on the back of my streaming pc. That way I could go into my Sound Settings and look at my recording devices and there should be a new input there from your gaming computer. Go into the properties and there should be a tick box for your streaming pc to always listen to your gaming pc and output it through your streaming pc.

That way I only had one set of speakers listening to both PCs, and I could use the new recording device as a sound input in Elgato Sound Control in OBS to stream the sound from my gaming pc and listen to it at the same time.

It might sound confusing but the cables and everything are relatively cheap.

I’m at work but if you need more help I’ll draw a layout for you later if you want.

u/gahd95 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Like this?

Should i add it between the mic and the PC or the audio jack and the PC?

u/DJPhil · 2 pointsr/audiorepair

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

u/ixShadow · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Also here to say I'm having the same issue when using the aux cable in my car and Galaxy S7. (Just purchased 3/20)

I get static when using Maps, Google Music, and making calls (barely audible with all the static).

I have searched and come across some users recommending to go to Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects > [With an auxillary cable/headphone plugged in], switch UHQ upscaler from off > on. This surprisingly did the trick after I restarted I think. But now it is back to static and it's beginning to get annoying.

If you find a fix please update!

Update: Just wanted to drop by and say that I was able to fix the issue (as it stands anyhow). Taking the advice of a fellow redditor in this thread, I purchased this device and the static has ceased. Should I/you have to purchase something like this to make our brand new $600+ phone function normally? Probably not, but so far this has fixed my issue and I hope it can help someone else out there experiencing similar issues.

u/KD7DMP · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I helped set up a studio about 5 years back for a local community radio station and interfacing the phone line to their system was a pain.
They had a unit called a Phone hybrid, which is a unit that has an audio in(so the caller can hear you) and an Audio out(so you can hear the caller) and a connection for a landline phone. So you hook that up to your board and away you go, at least that is how it's done in radio. Here is a link to hybrids:

For your cell phone you could get a mic/headphone splitter to do the same job as the Hybrid.
(Like this one:

The only issue is there is voltage on the mic side(to power the mic in a headset) that you need to isolate or it will damage your board.(You can use something like this to do that job.

So you would need to hook the Mic side, via your isolator, To your aux output on your board so the caller can hear the final mix audio. Then hook the headphone port to an aux/line input(the One that uses RCA or 1/4" jacks,) so that the caller can be recorded.
One other bit that I learned while setting up the radio station is you need a way to mute the caller's audio on the aux output so the caller doesn't hear them self.(It comes out as a very trippy delayed audio to the caller) Many boards have way to select what line go to your aux output, so you will just need to RTFM on that.

Anyway, I hope that input was helpful and gets you a better setup for callers.

u/jamminwithtrees · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yup sounds like the other headset prob didn't use a common ground for the mic and headphones. It's def a ground loop though, I knew as soon as you described the noise :) Ground loop isolaters sometimes work, but it depends on the difference in potential - you can end up with some other issues if it's bad enough. You can def give one of these a try though - put it inline on your headphone connection to the dac/amp -

Otherwise not much you can do short of rewiring the headset.

u/cyclonesworld · 2 pointsr/electrical

For sure sounds like a ground loop issue then if it's happening when they're running tools. I'm not sure how to handle this for residential, I've only dealt with it in car audio.

I did have a similar issue when I used to DJ. I had a USB controller, and when I had it hooked up to my PC via USB, then connected through RCA to my receiver, I'd get a high pitched whine from it. It's because it was grounding through my PC, and my AMP, which were both grounded to each other. Some kind of weird deal, I never did figure out a good solution.

For car audio though, they make a ground loop isolator that filters out the high pitched whines. I don't see why it wouldn't work on the PC though, since it's a passive device that doesn't require external power. This is the one I have. Might be worth a shot.

u/gargolito · 2 pointsr/prius

This works great on my 2007 and meets my requirements: are it and forget it, fast connectivity, no batteries. It's been solid for me:

HomeSpot NFC-enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio

And to avoid ground noise:

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others

Tips: don't max out your phone's volume or will cause distortion. I keep mine at 80-90% of volume. I can still use the phone with the car. I have an android phone. I connect Bluetooth phone top cast and media streaming to the adapter.

u/camcabbit · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like (no pun intended) a ground loop issue. You'll need something called a "Ground Loop Isolator".

Also, check that all the devices connected to your computer that are powered from the wall are grounded. It's possible that the monitor might have a bad (or no!) grounding pin.

In order to possibly solve this, I would recommend using something like this between your monitor's audio out and your computer's line in jack.

I know this because my sister's computer had the exact same problem.

u/purebishop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like a ground loop problem to me. Depending on how recently you've purchased the laptop, get it replaced/repaired under warranty. Otherwise, you could use a ground loop isolator to fix this.

u/gunder_bc · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

At work I have a headset mic plugged in to both my phone and PC, and plug the phone into the PC to charge. That created a ground loop and I had to buy a group-loop isolator to remove the hiss that caused.

u/mage2k · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

One of these takes care of that problem nicely.

u/wickedzeus · 2 pointsr/mazda3

if you're going to do this, don't forget to pick up a ground loop noise isolator it will get rid of the whirring/static noise you'll inevitably get as you drive. That's the one I used, so I can vouch for it, but there are many other ones out there. I had it paired with this on my 07 (placed it on the front of the center console a few inches under the lip) and it worked well until I switched cars

u/mrandish · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It was probably a ground loop being introduced from that power brick.

This can usually be resolved by changing the grounding of your power configuration. Sometimes swapping power strips, using two different wall outlets which are on different circuits or changing out audio cables (you may have a cable with a disconnected ground shield). To be clear, your problem is not "from" the power cable. The problem is a ground connection that is traveling through power lines and audio lines.

One time I had a problem with hooking up two different computers to the same amplified monitor speakers in a complex system, couldn't solve it and had to resort to getting this $10 ground loop isolator which fixed the problem completely.

u/mouf32 · 2 pointsr/lgg6

I picked up the ground loop isolator mentioned on the G5 post and it fixed all of my issues. Supposedly it's a software issue that can be fixed.

u/bobzor · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I just bought this one and I really love it. But you likely will need to purchase a ground loop noise isolater to prevent that high-pitched wheeze you get when you plug something into your car.

u/lumberjack_dan · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

$120 Pionner shallow sub This is a highly sensitive sub so its should sound great for your truck.
$100 Pioneer amp This is a 2 channel amp, Use this amp in bridged mode to get the full 450 watts for your sub.
$27 4 gauge amp kit

If you have aftermarket head unit with amp pre out the installation will be easier. Hope this helps

u/BKlaczak · 2 pointsr/Wake

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

u/marsrover001 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

According to this subreddit, you don't want the link posted above/below this. Oxygen free copper is the only wire to ever think of using. CarAV approved wiring harness

Also, never buy from wallmart.

u/Cheedweed · 2 pointsr/CarAV

No, BOSS is not a brand you want to spend money on. They tend to make low quality products.

This kit is a little more, but it is worlds better than the Boss one:

Also, this kit comes with an 80A fuse. You will want to buy one that is around 40A. You can get one at a local auto parts store, or wherever really. They are abundant.

u/Troniar24 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Here buy this:

Make sure the power wire from the positive battery is fused within a foot or two of the battery. Secondly, make sure the ground or negative is to a bolt that has the paint sanded off. With the car running, check the voltage between the two points and make sure it reads around 14.3 volts to be sure you have a decent connection. Finally the thing that stores power is called a capacitor. It has it's place in certain areas of car audio, but you don't have to worry about it at this point and would advise against spending the money on one. Youtube has plenty of videos on how to properly crimp/solder your wire, as well as hook up amps, subs, etc.

u/derpotologist · 2 pointsr/CarAV

That alternator is almost certainly an 80amp, which is good for something like 800 watts RMS (1100watts minus whatever your car uses). I have a car, same make, similar year.. I've got 2 12s and the front components are amped, something like 1000 watts RMS, the lights dim when I bump it hard but it's enough to rattle the trunk, vibrate the rear-view mirror and host a smallish beach party (50 people maybe?)

If you want to go full on SPL you'll need at least $500 for a new alternator... but with what you have, you could focus on sound quality, have something that sounds great and still gets loud enough to blow your eardrums out without breaking the bank

What I did:

Hand-me-down amps and subs. I'm running probably 400 watts RMS or so on the 2 subs.. yeah, really low, but you can really feel it and it shakes the hell out of the trunk. I have hearing damage from a previous system so not-insanely-loud works well for me

Per the recommendation of this sub, I skipped out on rear speakers and spent the budget on the fronts and sound deadening. This is the way to go. I bought the Morel Maximos... after reading a ton they seem like the best sounding speaker you can get under $300... and they only cost $150 for the pair. Look at the recommendations on the wiki for a good budget amp to power them. I've got ~100watts RMS to them, and they get fucking loud (and clear!)

Spend some money on sound deadening.. you'll need it. Road noise brings the signal-to-noise ratio way down, making it harder to hear your music, harder to hear details, and harder on your ears. I bought the Noico 80 mil on Amazon, $60 was enough to do both front door panels and probably will be enough for the rear too. This video gets posted a lot and will give you an idea of what you need to do. I didn't go as far as he did, but followed the concepts and it made a massive difference. Eventually I'd like to add some MLV for more sound-proofing

I come from a pro audio / studio engineering background as well.. you know the saying, spend 1/2 the budget on room treatment, that's probably about right in the car world too.

So for final budget:

$150 for Morel Maximo you'll appreciate this thread, it's an audio engineer's review of the Maximo vs several other components, this is what sold me and I love mine

$60 for Noico 80 mil sound deadener

$?? for MLV.. maybe $100?

$?? - Look on the wiki for a budget 5 channel amp... I'm running 2 amps, takes more connectors, more wire, more cost, but I already had the 2 amps. There seems to be some great amps out there now that are budget friendly, but I'm not familiar with them. Consult the wiki. You could run the components off the head unit but it wouldn't be much more to amplify them properly and it'll make a massive difference in output quality

$30 - Depending on the length of your cable run and your power requirements, you'll probably need a 4 gauge wire kit (do calculate this before buying), get the one from KnuKonceptz they're a great bang-for-buck and the cheapest wire that's actually rated for what it is. (for instance, Boss wire is thick but it's all insulation and not copper)

And for bonus, get a DSP so you can flatten out the EQ in your car.. cars are a lot harder to EQ than rooms because they have so many different nodes. Dayton is about to release theirs for $150, and if you have a calibration mic you're set, if not NADY's CM-100 is a $60 calibration mic and you'll take the car to the next level. You could keep it and re-tune on your next car. My car sounds lovely without DSP but I plan on adding it when I get some more funds... this is easy to upgrade and add later on, just pop it in the signal chain

And one last pro tip: Run your RCAs away from all power sources so you don't pick up that annoying alternator whine. I ran mine through the center of the car, but you should be able to run it on one side of the car and the amp wires on the other

Hope this helps. I'm just a musician/engineer who knows a little bit about car audio, been dipping my feet in a bit more lately, but by far an expert. There's a lot of professional car audio guys around here that can help out more if you have any more questions


u/Myrtal · 2 pointsr/CarAV

You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.

And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.

u/dooshbox · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Knuconceptz Wiring Better than stinger and costs less.
AudioTechnix Sound Deadener

u/Kadori · 2 pointsr/CarAV

allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit

u/ballinoutdagym · 2 pointsr/CarAV
u/illuxion · 2 pointsr/CarAV

KCA is Knu's code for copper clad aluminum which is aluminum wire with a thin copper coating. Kolossus Flex is OFC, oxygen free copper, and is good for 150A at 4ga. Pure copper is a MUCH better conductor than aluminum.

u/DrGabooboo · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

I have a 2012 accord, and the 08-12 have the same body style, so I know what you need and some potential problems you might run into.

You should replace the radio because it'll make a dramatic difference in the sound quality, same with adding an amp. Also, if you want to put quality speakers in, you'll need an amp or you'll risk blowing your speakers.

Problems you'll run into:

  • With a new head unit, you'll lose the function of the screen on top, but I think it's a good trade off for the sound quality

  • You can't have speakers in the front doors that are too deep because it'll hit the window, but there are good shallow mount speakers to put there.

  • The back deck WILL rattle, even you you put a good amount of deadener on it, deadener will still help a good amount though. To solve this problem, deaden it, put weather stripping along the back of the deck where it meets the window (I doubled it up where the brake light is back there), and I drilled two small holes from inside the trunk and zip-tied it down around the metal frame under the deck. This worked great for me and I have two 13" subs in a ported box. If you're looking for one 10", it'll definitely work. It might look a little janky, but that's the only way for it to not rattle.

  • To have someone install everything, run the wires, and deaden what you need deadened (which is, at minimum, the front doors and front door panels, rear deck, trunk, trunk lid, and probably the the pillars in the back), you're probably looking at around $300-$600 for about 4-6 hours of work, depending on where you take it to. And some charge more for installing if you didn't buy the parts from them.

    In your other post on /r/CarAV, you said you have a couple grand to spend, so I'm going to put a complete SQ system together that you'll be able to keep for a long time and move from car to car.

  • KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit - $50 (they have a cheaper 4 gauge amp kit, but it doesn't have a big enough fuse on it)

  • 100' KnuKonceptz speaker wire - $20

  • RCA cables (need 2 more pairs) - $10 x 2

  • Dash kit - $50

  • Wiring harness - $12
  • Antenna adapter - $10

  • Steering wheel control interface - $80

  • Kenwood excelon headunit - $260

  • 6.5" Focal component speakers for the front - $250

  • 6.5" JL coax speakers for the back deck - $140

  • Baffles for the speakers on back deck - $8 (you need these if you want to hear these speakers because of noise cancelation from the sub)

  • 10" pioneer sub - $300

  • Crappy pre-fab sub box - $60

  • Custom box for your car - $120 + $15 if you want a grill (They will build it to the specs of the sub, which is 1 cu.ft. sealed if you go with the pioneer)

  • Kenwood excelon 5 channel amp - $500

  • 25ft^2 of sound deadener - $55

  • $1815-1890 + $300-$600 installation + your tax rate

    You probably can find some of this stuff cheaper on amazon, but they're not a registered dealer so you're SOL if something goes bad.

    I'd go in to the store, get two quotes, 1) just to install all of this stuff you bought online and 2) what it would cost to buy everything from them with installation and see which is cheaper. The cost for dealers on door speakers and subwoofers is literally half of what they sell for, not head units though, they have very little mark up. Chances are the store might end up being cheaper if you tell them exactly what you're looking at online and how much you're planning to spend on it. Win-Win for you and the dealer, he get's business and you get a better price and similar quality products if they can compete with the online prices. Plus you'd be supporting a local business, unless you were planning on going to best buy, car toys, or something like that (don't do that, go to a local place). And if you buy all this stuff from a dealer and have it installed there, if anything goes wrong you can take it back and have them deal with it.

u/infinity526 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

You can do a (not perfect, but good enough) circle cut with a pencil, string, and jigsaw

Yes, it'd be fine on your stock electrical. I forgot to mention to get some good OFC power wire

u/TheDullard · 2 pointsr/CarAV

You want to get a d2 sub. That means it's dual voicecoil, 2ohms per coil. coils would be wired parallel for a 1 ohm final load. A 4 gauge amp wiring kit will be fine. I would spend the few extra dollars for a nice OFC (oxygen free copper) kit over a kit that uses CCA(copper clad aluminum) Here is a really good choice, has all you need

u/mestapho · 2 pointsr/CarAV

The amp and subs I’m on board with for this budget but I wouldn’t get that wiring kit. It’s CCA power/ground

Spend a little more and get this

Build your own box but use proper glue not silicon. Titebond 2 is pretty much universally used by enclosure makers. Glued correctly you don’t even need screws - the glue is stronger than the screws, esp in MDF.

u/theworstghost · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Here's another 4ga option that has speaker wire.

u/Pandalizer · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer

Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier

KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit

$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!

Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)

u/bbsqrl · 2 pointsr/BMWE36

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

u/ShtDaHllUpMarguerite · 2 pointsr/civic

You have the option to use one of these:
You can daisy chain from your rear speakers or splice into the speaker wire. This device will convert that rear speaker line into an RCA line so you can run an amp. They work really well, the downside is that your sub woofer controls will be affected by any changes you make to the rear speakers. But if you play with the amp, I'm sure you'll be happy with the result. And yes, your rear speakers will work as normal.

u/the_blue_wizard · 2 pointsr/audio

If the Technics Amp does not have PRE-AMP output, then this gets difficult. It can probably be done, but it is unclear how well it will work.

There are Speaker Level to Line Level (RCA) converters that are meant of car stereos. But they might work for you.

Though search AMAZON for "speaker level to line level converter" though be aware that it doesn't always return the correct products. But you will see some similar to those above.

If you are willing to seek alternatives, then give us a working budget for those alternatives.

Also important, what is the source of your sound? TV? Turntable? Computer? CD Player? Network Streaming? Other? All of the above? None of the above?

I'm guessing absolute minimum for an alternative solutions is going to be in the $50 to $100 range. But to make those suggestions we need to know what is going into the system in terms of sources of sound. And we need a clear declaration of your working budget.

u/1_64493406685 · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?

Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...


u/bigblackcouch · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Cool, that helps a lot thanks, I was hesitant about finding straight adapter cables for it. :) I do use my headphone port so I was looking to have something in the backside, I ordered this little booger after checking out a few different ones, the next best one recommended was $100 more, so...I'll try this first.

If it blows the speakers, well that would suck but I guess that's just how it goes.

u/PioneerStandard · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What you are saying is that you have only an amplified subwoofer out on your amplifier that drives a passive unit only? Your subwoofer does not have speaker level inputs?

Well you can purchase a line level converter and adjust it according for a high impedance low signal input amplified subwoofer unit.

Like this

In your case just use one half of the stereo converter and ignore the other side. There are many versions available in all price ranges.

u/dragorn-kismet · 2 pointsr/AndroidAuto

I had the same problem with a pioneer unit and the toyota harness - the ebrake signal isn't compatible. I ended up getting a $10 override chip from amazon ( and putting that inline.

You can, in theory, hack something up with a relay or by running it to other signals under the dash (check the manuals and google). I didn't feel like pulling my dash apart more so I was happy to shim it out with the chip.

u/potatosentry · 2 pointsr/subaru

I got all my harnesses from David at I emailed him with the details of what I was planning to do and he responded with everything I needed. It was nice to get them all from one place.

I paired his harnesses with a Maestro RR to retain the backup cam and steering wheel controls.

Remember, if you email David, he will give you a list customized to your application, but here is what I used:

Ordered from

  • 10 & 6 pin "forward" harness with plain speaker wires
  • 28-pin aux retention harness with 3 plain SWC wires & VSS & reverse gear & parking brake leads
  • Add male RCA and 6V power lead to 28-pin harness (to retain OEM rear camera)
  • Alternate AM/FM+XM antenna feeder cord (to retain shark fin antenna)

    Ordered from Amazon:

  • [MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch]
  • SiriusXM SXV300v1

    Ordered from eBay:

  • Maestro RR

    Hope this helps
u/janitory · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You can get these at local stores for acoustics and electronic stores like RadioShack.

I guess you are from the US since you didn't mention another country - so, here is a link to some.

Newegg also has them.

If you are infact from Europe, visit .

Hope this helps! And keep on using Mumble! :)

u/Fritts336 · 2 pointsr/PS4

This is the proper fix for anyone else looking!

Ferrite beads prevent interference in two directions: from a device or to a device.[1] A conductive cable acts as an antenna – if the device produces radio frequency energy, this can be transmitted through the cable, which acts as an unintentional radiator. In this case the bead is required for regulatory compliance, to reduce EMI. Conversely, if there are other sources of EMI, such as household appliances, the bead prevents the cable from acting as an antenna and receiving interference from these other devices. This is particularly common on data cables and on medical equipment.

Source wikipedia. Plus ive used many of these.

u/smushkan · 2 pointsr/videography

All a shielded cable is is effectively foil or another dielectric wrapped around the cord. It's pretty cheap, so as long as you buy one from a reputable dealer the chances are you're getting the real deal.

Another thing that could be tried is attaching a ferrite core to the cable. They soak up any RFI and EMI noise being inducted on the cable to a certain extent. Not a substitute for shielding, but they can help in some cases.

I have had a very similar issue before with some microphones when being fed plug-in or phantom power when the microphones didn't need it or at the incorrect voltage. I'd imagine that the G7 is putting plug-in power out the microphone input. Some cameras do let you disable that in the settings menu so worth a try if you can.

It could just be the G7 itself with internal noise issues. I havn't heard anyone complain that the G7 has such issues though, so that would be a first for me, though that sort of 'digital noise' is very common in complicated devices like PC sound cards where there's a lot of activity on the board around the preamps.

Not sure if the G7 has either of these, but if the camera does have wi-fi or bluetooth make sure those are switched off too.

u/fiah84 · 2 pointsr/Miata

I don't know, IIRC you can pretty much just hook up a plug straight to your radio with no further electronics or anything because your older radio supports that, but you'll probably still want one of these

u/Vortax_Wyvern · 2 pointsr/hotas

It can either be two things:

1- a ground loop issue, which should be fixed with a ground loop isolator, like this one

2- an internal interference to your sound card caused by electro static interference when plugin the HOTAS. If so, maybe you'll need an external DAC to avoid such interference. Does maters where you plug your HOTAS (any USB port, through a USB hub, etc)?

Edit: please, have in mind that ground loop isolator can have an impact in audio quality, although, if you are using skullcandy headphones, you would probably not notice it too much.

u/the_flying_pussyfoot · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

You can try using a Ground Loop Noise Isolator but YMMV.

It sounds like some sort of interference during calls through the aux cable when in calls.

Here's one for an example. It's fairly cheap

u/PerplexVisionz · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/dj_soo · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

you could also try a ground loop isolator for your cable.

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

First, you probably don't need the gain set to 10 on the monitors. Try reducing it to 0, set the PC to 100% and then slowly increase the gain on the monitors to about as loud as you would ever want it. This helps attenuate any noise induced into the signal picked up along the way.

Next, try plugging the monitors into the same power strip as the PC to reduce any ground potential between the devices.

Finally, if the above did not help enough you will want to isolate the ground between the two devices. The cheapest way to do this safely is with a line level isolator like this. They however have been known to affect the sound quality a bit since they add a cheap transformer in the signal path to block any DC on the line.

u/Azimalicous · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I believe you need feedback loop isolation. I had to use this in my car with a USB powered 3.5 Bluetooth audio dongle to enable wireless music in my car. I was getting alternator whine through my speakers until i used this device.

I would also try to plug in the USB on the speakers to a USB ac outlet and see if you get the same feedback. It would be a good way to know wihtout having to buy something (assuming you already have an AC USB adapter).

u/Yggsdrazl · 2 pointsr/WhitePeopleTwitter

> get a high pitched noise from interference


u/NachosConCarne · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

A ground loop isolator should be able to fix that for you. Just plug it in between the aux connection and your PC.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/TimeRocker · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You could try using a ground loop maybe. I had a weird static sound with my previous audio setup and this fixed it for me -

u/hofnbricl · 2 pointsr/Moto_Z

Hey, I've had the same problem with this phone and others. If I use the aux out on the dock without power I get fine sound, but when I plug it in the quality drops. If I charge with the port on the phone the audio is better. Apparently, a ground loop isolater can fix the issue, but I haven't tried. If you use the dock a lot, it might be worth it to try the isolater.

u/Monkeyfeng · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

Get this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

I got it for my car to get rid of the static

u/delightfulmistake · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Analog jacks almost always have some noise, especially if the gain (master volume) is turned all the way up on the computer. Try some USB or Bluetooth headphones, you'll never go back.

If you have to stick with analog headphones, you might consider a ground loop isolator.

u/mr_mooses · 2 pointsr/MINI


2005 cooper s, r53, 70k miles.
Replaced my oem aux cable, with another oem (through from ebay) because my original one developed a short and would cut left audio out completely, super annoying.

I unplugged the old, plugged in the new and it showed up just fine. Tested it with music and all good. Put everything back together and drove to cumbys and it worked. Next morning, start navigation and music all good, then go to plug my phone into power and the aux disconnects. I almost always have my phone plugged in when in the car, so the aux connection was really almost never on. searched around on nam, or asked fbook forum and discovered someone else who had similar problem with the aux magically disappearing.

Something with the ground for the radio and the cig lighter being on the same circuit, or idk. But i tested it again knowing what to look for and yeah, everytime i plugged my phone into power (not just the cig lighter, but the plug into my phone) the aux would disappear from the radio options.

adding a ground loop isolator to the aux cable completely fixed it for me.

u/jtking51 · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

You want the USB and optical cable from the mixamp to go to your Xbox. Configure the mixamp first with the mixamp plugged in via USB to the PC and make it so the stream port only outputs the party chat.

Once configure plug the USB back into the Xbox. Then you want a cable going from the headphone or out audio port on your PC into the aux port on the mixamp.

This will give you Xbox audio and party chat output to your capture card while also allowing you to hear PC audio.

You may have to get a ground loop isolator for the aux cable though as you may get a humming noise Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator...

u/carlmmii · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You either need a ground loop isolator, or a way to capture the audio from the HDMI feed.

u/neverwhere616 · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I have 3 boutiques on a hub, I use these to eliminate noise. They work perfectly.

u/crispy91 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I used this one so it'll all fit in the center consol.

u/asdfirl22 · 1 pointr/CarAV

Edit: Updated with LOC, OFC cabling and enclosure

u/ElJefe10 · 1 pointr/CarAV

For $1200 you can get a decent set of component speakers, 5 channel amp, and a pair of custom made enclosures for subs.

Pioneer 5 channel - 279 shipped

Wire kit - $60 shipped+ $20 extra for a 4-channel set of rca's

Pioneer TS components - $90 shipped

LCI7 line out converter - $114 shipped

We're at roughly $570 shipped without the sub+box+install. Do you want overwhelming bass for the low end, or something subtle to blend in with the mids and highs? A mix of both perhaps? Also, did you REALLY want that vehicle specific box for the extra trunk space? A shop could fabricate a fiberglass form fitting enclosure for typically $350.

To answer your initial question: No, an 8" sub and form fitting box is NOT worth $800 extra. In fact, the $1200 package is a rip off equipment wise since you only get tweeters + dsp/amp + 8" sub/box. What you're paying for is ease of use and pre-processed sound. You may want to go to the dealership and try to listen to a car with this set up anyways.

u/Yeeeeeeeeeooooooooo · 1 pointr/CarAV

You won’t be able to see voltage drops normally, the amp may be getting voltage but not enough amps. Check continuity on the amp wire and make sure there’s not added resistance in the wire. Should be damn near nothing.

And I’ve always had good luck with the kicker kits and I’ve hear good things about the knukonceptz kits.

Normally when a client comes in to us and says that they have a amp cutting out and going into protect mode, we swap it with our shop test amp and sub, which is a kicker cxa 600.1 and kicker comp r 12” and we crank the shit out of it and see, if it cuts out with that system then we swap the wires and all is good, if it doesn’t we sell them an amp and sub.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

Kicker PK4 4 Gauge OFC Power Amplifier Installation Kit

u/carbon_x · 1 pointr/CarAV



Wiring kit:

If you want a ported box, build it. Prefab boxes are 98% junk when it comes to meeting the specs of the woofer. Sealed prefab boxes aren't the best, but you don't need to match port size and all that, as long as the cubic footage is there it will be alright. Sealed isn't as loud as ported, though.

If anyone has other suggestions, feel free to tell me my selection was shit. I'm still soaking up knowledge.

u/codename_rondo · 1 pointr/CarAV

Sure. Not the most knowledgable when it comes to wiring, so if I'm wrong hopefully someone will correct me... But I think a 4 gauge OFC kit will do you just fine, and KnuConceptz seems to be the undisputed king of wiring around these parts.

u/ION-8 · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

I’ll be the guy to give you some advise seeing there has been no post in 13 hours, I’m no professional.

$35 copper 6ga amp wire kit Walmart - Locally

$50 KnuKoncepts 4ga OFC amp kit Amazon

Only use OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) Wire

$127 Audio Controls LC6i LineOut Converter Amazon

This let’s you keep your stock radio and add the two amps

$140 Alpine MRV-F300 SonicElectronix

Power your new door speakers for increase loudness and clarity

$80/pair NVX 6.5” Component Kit SonicElectronix

Two sets would cover your doors, they are a high enough rms where the amp will not blow them as long as you have it tuned properly and it’s not turned all the way up! Distortion kills speakers! I would disconnect your rear deck center speaker.

$101 2X Alpine W12S4 12” Single 4ohm Subs SonicElectronix

$90 Ported Subwoofer Box- almost optimal size. SonicElectronix

check your trunk measurements you might have to go with a smaller sealed box*

$150 Alpine MRV-M500 Subwoofer amp SonicElectronix

You will be slightly over budget. Self install or nothing. Many areas to improve in the future. Goodluck

u/UMDSmith · 1 pointr/CarAV

Let us assume that you are truly pushing 1000w. If we divide that by 12V (really 13+ with car running), your wiring will need to support 83amps at most.

Consulting the wiring chart (, depending on distance you will need 6 or 4 ga. wiring.

Given these specs and that I always over engineer, I'd go with this kit

which is $50 on Amazon.

u/MyFishIsGold · 1 pointr/CarAV

Car Audio Newb

I bought a used Skar ZVX-8 dual 2 ohm 900 rms sub in a box and its currently wired to 1 ohm. I plan on getting an Audiopipe APCL-1001D as my amp (getting a good deal in it). Specs say it should do 1000 watt rms at 1 ohm, or 600 rms at 2 ohm.

My questions are, should I run it at 1 ohm or rewire the sub for 2 ohms? And as far as an amp wiring kit, would this be a good option, or should I just build my own kit with welding cable? Trying to be as cost efficient as possible.

u/K9b1ack · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Does this budget include an amp? How about the enclosure?

If you're trying to do all of this for $150 (NEW) then something like this RF powered, loaded enclosure would probably be the best you can do. Wiring will be extra.

u/Random_Burger · 1 pointr/CarAV

I know the amp isn't very good but I am going to deal with it. I just need to know what kind of wiring I need to hook it up to two subs and my receiver.

I was thinking this wiring kit may be able to work but I am unsure.

u/apanthropy · 1 pointr/CarAV

I don't usually recommend PowerBass because they're a budget brand, but you have a budget and that's exactly what budget brands are perfect for - these will be pretty good for the money . May as well get the matching coaxials to round out your other pair.

this is an excellent 4-channel amp - and it has balanced inputs & signal sensing auto-engage so you don't need that line out converter thing. Even has a summed line out to drive your future subwoofer.

Then of course, an amp kit for power ... that gets you in under bucks with fairly good equipment.

u/but_y_tho_0 · 1 pointr/FordFocus

The stock radio doesn't have a sub out so you'll need to buy a converter and splice it into the wires to the two front woofers. Here's one I would recommend:

u/BeardedAlbatross · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

That's right, derp. I'm going to go ahead and say that's just not the right sub for that setup.

You're right though some variant of this will work, biwiring to both the device and the speakers. I doubt Sonic will be fine with that though, so like I said it's not the right sub for his setup.

u/WarriorMMA · 1 pointr/civic

its the kicker line out convert off of amazon

So basically the line out converter comes with 5 wires, 2 right wires, 2 left wires and 1 ground wire.

so essentially, if youre connecting to your rear speakers then you connect to the 2 right wires to the right rear speaker and 2 left wires to the rear left speaker. this requires you to cut the rear speaker wire though.

if your car comes with a stock sub, then you can simply connect the lineout to the stock sub and then to your amp. that way u can control the sub level from your headunit.

u/binnn9661 · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hi Guys, I am new to this Vinyl world. I recently just bought a Pro Ject Debut Carbon with Pro Ject Phono MM...

I also just recently got my ELAC B5 Bookshelf speakers. The problem is that my speakers only take Speaker Wires and does not take RCA. Whilst my Phono Box MM only takes RCA and not Speaker Wires. I am new to this thing. Any help? Should I buy a Speaker Wire to RCA adapter?

Something like this?

Any help would be appreciated

u/sotimting · 1 pointr/hometheater

Thank you. That's basically what I needed to know - that such a thing existed. I've purchased a couple of these on Amazon for $8.33 each:

Kicker KISLOC 2-Channel K-Series Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter

u/leisy123 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm sure this is getting to the point where we're starting to toss practicality out the window and I should just get a reciever with a pre out, but would it work to get one of these line to RCA adapters designed for stock car head units and plug that into something like the Dayton wireless adapter? Even I'm cringing, so I'm guessing it isn't advisable.

u/nholmstrom705 · 1 pointr/subwoofer

Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!

u/G3N3Parmesan · 1 pointr/hometheater

My idea is to attach this,, to the B channel of the Insignia receiver to attach to my AVR in the basement.

u/ocinn · 1 pointr/audiophile

See that's the problem. That's a single RCA plug.

You basically need to find an output of the amp that is variable with the amp volume. The only output that is this is the speaker outputs.

Your subwoofer doesn't have speker-level inputs, so you need to convert them with these:

You plug the kicker into the L+R channel speaker tabs (along with your speakers) and then plug the Y-Cable into it. Then plug the single end of the y cable into the sub. Adjust the sub gain to your liking.

u/Wizkid37 · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yes. It's android autos google maps based off your phone. They make google maps and spotify driver safe. But still both work fine for the basics. I come from the same background as you and I love this device. Play around with the MHL stuff too. And absolutely 100% get this

u/the-truth- · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto

I never tried to play music with an SD card. I do have a bypass installed. I know with the 4200 there is a different bypass module that you need. Did you make sure you got the right one?

Edit. This is the one I have MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer AVH-4100NEX AVH-4200NEX

Edit : nevermind didn't see that you already linked it lol

Which cables have you tried? Did you use any on the list on the pioneer website? Have you tried enabling USB debugging like some forums say?

u/abyde · 1 pointr/CarAV

MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer Model AVH-4100NEX

u/mautorepair · 1 pointr/XTerra

This worked for me.

May not be compatible with your unit so do some research

u/plastrd · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto

Grounding was a common workaround for head units with nav systems that required the car to be in park to enter an address or generally be useful. The manufacturers caught on to people just permanently grounding the parking brake wire to trick the head unit so they got a little smarter by checking to see if the parking brake toggles when the car is started.
There are specialized parking brake bypasses that simulate the parking brake toggle, here's one listed for the 4100-NEX. If OP tried grounding or the wire isn't hooked up in the first place this might be the ticket.

u/twoheadphones · 1 pointr/CarAV

2 steps:

  1. before turning ignition, I check voltage (+) and Remote wire. Verified 12V
  2. After turning ignition, checked (+) and Remote, and the voltage is 0.

    I have a parking brake bypass installed that connects to blue-white (Remote), Ground (black) and Left Rear Speaker (Green).

    I am suspicious that the bypass is grounding the remote signal causing the woofer to not turn on.

    Will remove the bypass and try again.

    For nice bare metal, should I just sand the paint off in a small area and ground it to the metal with a self-tapping screw? Will watch some videos to get that done correctly.
u/I_hate_kids_too · 1 pointr/snes

>S-Video consists of two video components, luma and chroma. The checkerboard pattern you often see with poorly-built cabling is caused by the chroma component not being fully separated from the luma component and causing interference. Sounds like your thinner cable is better than your thicker one.

So is this caused by a lack of shielding or the lack of a ferrite bead?

If it's the lack of a ferrite bead, would something like this fix the problem?

> Incidentally, the yellow wire is not needed for S-Video and is frequently omitted entirely from S-Video cables. You should probably leave it disconnected.

Yeah I was wondering about that... Good to know.

u/spoils__princess · 1 pointr/audiophile

Try picking up some ferrite clamps to put on the cable to see if it will help the cable effectively reject the interference.


Such as these:

u/magnetoencefalografy · 1 pointr/skeptic

That's good, at least.

Think you could get away with looping each ear's cable round a ferrite ring a couple of times and showing her something like this, with some pretty graphs showing how they can reduce EMF, and hope she misses the fact the EMF is generated in the buds themselves?

u/Intellektual01 · 1 pointr/DJs

How are your power cords arranged? Is there anything overlapping? Sounds like some sort of interference. Not other turntables to test with?

Before sending it back for another out of warranty repair, you may want to try a ferrite ring or two. Amazon has them pretty cheap.

u/ItsBail · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Do you live in Lithuania?

Your neighbor is a ham radio operator. In one of the recordings he is sending TEST (contest) and his call sign.

I can give you his name if you need to narrow it down. I'd suggest talking to him and let him know his signal is getting into you stuff

You can fix this on your end as well with snap on chokes

If it's too strong.. ehhhhh not sure about your local laws

u/MrCaptain23 · 1 pointr/mazda3

thank you! Do you think this will help btw if I can't find any ones that prevent radio static?

u/Forty44Four · 1 pointr/headphones

I used a ground loop isolator*when I had issues with my headset and microphone and it fixed them.

u/JReich_TV · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Could be hardware issues in your setup. Higher end motherboards usually account for this, but some lower end models have the audio power on the same loop as the rest of the motherboard (from the 20/24 pin). If you don't have a high rated PSU, you could be getting "dirty power" which is known for giving whining sounds or buzzing sounds. A very simple fix is to feed a ground loop isolator, they're like 5 dollars or so I'll link you one, they basically just are low end filters for that unstable power coming out of a headphone jack.

Basically plug the included cable into your motherboard audio out port and one end of the isolator. Plug the Sennheisers into the ground loop isolators other port and it's like having a lil filter. Hoping this cheap solution helps, it helped my brothers problem when I build his PC from my old parts.

u/gsbloodstains · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I have the ground loop isolator connected between my switch and microphone jack on my laptop

u/beyondthetech · 1 pointr/tmobile

I love my SyncUP DRIVE because it is able to add a whole dimension to our SUV.

I don't know what it is about FM radio in cars, but the last couple vehicles, the signal and audio quality has been absolutely atrocious. Unless you have that HD Radio feature built-in on your car's entertainment system, it's so staticky and low quality that it's not even worth listening to.

So, I grabbed a second-gen Amazon Echo Dot on sale for $30 and plugged it in my car, with a 1A micro-USB charger and an audio cable (plus a ground loop noise isolator to remove the humming/hissing noise), and now my wife and I are able to stream our favorite FM radio stations via iHeartRadio and TuneIn, not to mention Amazon Music, Pandora, and Spotify. Granted, Amazon streams their audio through an encrypted network connection (akin to a VPN connection), so T-Mobile is not able to downsample it and therefore is not Music Freedom-eligible, so that streaming counts against my monthly data allotment.

We've got the grandfathered Mobile Internet 6GB plan with Binge On and Music Freedom for $40, with a $10 discount for having phone lines, and $5 discount for AutoPay, ultimately bringing it to $25 per month. Surprisingly, there's also another 6GB plan for $25, but T-Force says the discounts are already applied to that, and the plan is tweaked, but not for the better: throttling on these new plans specifically state that they're forced down to 2G speeds, whereas my grandfathered plan says it's just "slowed down." I've never broken the 6GB barrier in a single month, as I use up 4-5GB per month with encrypted music streaming, so I don't know what the speeds are after that. I also have 4G LTE tethering, but I hardly use that as well.

In addition, I also grabbed an Amazon Fire TV Stick for $30 and plugged it into the Rear Entertainment System's HDMI port (and USB port for power), so the kids can watch Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Video, and even the SlingPlayer app back to my Slingbox connected to my TiVo at home, so they can watch their recorded shows and live TV. All those streams are zero-rated for Binge On, so they can watch all they want to their hearts' content. No more swapping DVDs and Blu-rays, it's all on demand.

All that, plus vehicle monitoring/tracking/logging, diagnostics, and included Roadside Assistance, this is probably the coolest thing to have on my T-Mobile account.

u/zenthursdays · 1 pointr/splatoon

For my setup I use a male to male 3.5mm cable to plug my Switch into my PC's line in port. That way you get both the game audio and Discord audio through the same headset. Also had to use a ground loop isolator to get rid of some noise, but now it works beautifully.

These are the the ones I bought, but there are a million to choose from:

u/goRockets · 1 pointr/mazda3

I added an aux port to my 2006 not too long ago. A ground loop isolator is a must otherwise you'll get a lot of background noise during acceleration and when you charge your device.

I got these parts:

Goliton aux cable for Mazda

3.5mm feed-thru panel mount jack

ground loop isolator

The combination works perfectly. I drilled a hole in the center between the cigarette lighter and the passenger airbag light. There is plenty of space behind it and the part is pretty cheap (less than $20) to buy used on ebay if I must return the car to stock configuration.

u/wizoatk · 1 pointr/amateurradio

If wrapping the cable around a ferrite choke (cheaper) doesn't reduce the noise to an acceptable level, the next step up would be a transformer based ground isolation which almost certainly would. Amazon (and other places) sell simple plugin versions:

u/TheArmman1995 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Forgot to mention that I use this too.
I had a ton of interference in the monitors.

u/rimboslice · 1 pointr/hometheater

I took the sub around with the RCA to AUX plugged into my phone to test. The sub will hum in the bedroom even when nothing else is connected to the outlet. I have this MPOW GLI connected to the TV and the speakers plugged into it. I thought this would correct the hum I was dealing with as everything was pointing to a ground loop, but the hum persists.

u/AspergillusTicor · 1 pointr/OP1users

If it's a short run to the mixer you can get away with unbalanced connection, but at least grab one of these to eliminate the ground loop. Also, no charging while playing!

u/glimmer_ · 1 pointr/Twitch

I use this simple one. Plug the line out from the mixer into the isolator and then the isolator plugs into your pc

u/BlackdogRazor1 · 1 pointr/AstroGaming

I have a Gen1 (maybe gen2, idk) A40 and Mixamp that Ive had since 2013.

I had the humming in my headset for a while and I tried many different configurations to get rid of the hum to no avail.

Several years ago, I built a Y-cable that went from my mixamp (miniB end) to my PC for data only (USB A end), and another USB A end for power only to plug into the wall. The trick here is that the ground must still go to all three connectors. If you don't connect the ground on the data to PC end, the PC will do some very weird stuff and not recognize the Mixamp, or it will drop out and come back up, and give USB errors.

The Y-cable I built stopped all noise. Solder splicing USB wires is very tedious due to the very small wire gauge, and using heat shrink wasn't easy since the outer insulation on the cables I bought to cut up and modify melted fairly easily, even on low heat setting on my heat gun.

I built a new system at the end of 2017, namely with a new motherboard (old motherboard was GA-Z87X-UD4H), and I moved to another home shortly afterwards. In the move, I ended up losing the Y-Cable I built. So I decided to use the Astro USB cable it comes with til I could locate the cable I built.

Come to find out that there was no buzzing in the headset with the Astro cable connected to my new system's motherboard (ASRock Fatality X399 Gaming). So I just never ended up looking for my custom cable.

I recently discovered that now there is a slight buzzing/humming in the mic output. I can't hear it, but when I've played with others online, they say they can hear it. I made a recording using OBS so I can hear the severity of the noise. When playing it back, I can hear it very clearly. Its not very loud, but it is definitely noticeable, and Id be irritated having to hear it from someone else over my speakers or headset.

Im thinking of trying an inline ground loop noise isolator for the 3.5mm to the headset that I saw on Amazon, which also has some questions and good reviews about using it with the Astro Headsets and Mixamps.

If this doesnt work, then I will try a more expensive USB noise filter next.

u/eXDee · 1 pointr/Android

The Wirecutter has a good round up of bluetooth car kits. Saves heaps of research.

My criteria:

  • Uses USB for power, not a cigarette lighter hard wired (allows for dual/tri usb chargers)
  • Supports APT-X and AAC if possible
  • Play/Pause and Skip
  • Can trigger Google Now
  • Clear audio for handsfree phone calls
  • Practical/well designed/not too large.

    I got the Himbox HB-01, while it doesn't support APT-X the new one does, and the stock stereo is probably the limiting factor in sound quality. To get google now working, i installed an app "BT Gnow". The New HB-01+ i believe would resolve both apt-x and google now out of the box.

    Note when you have a device such a phone or bluetooth car kit connected to both aux and usb, you may get noise in some vehicles. It varies by device and by vehicle. While in my car the noise is minimal, I still use a ground loop isolator to eliminate it entirely. You'll notice that the wirecutter mentions the newer HB-01+ has a whine, i'd wager that this may be eliminated with a ground loop isolator.
u/Kasendou · 1 pointr/xboxone

If you can't find suitable speakers that have an Optical Input, then you can use the Astro Mixamp Pro TR $130 (it has a STREAM port on the back).


With a ground loop noise isolator to get rid of any whining noises...


Then any typical 3.5mm jack speakers will work. I use this setup on my PS4 with a set of Logitech speakers on my desk and swap between this and my Sennheiser Game One headset.

u/TheSacredWaffle · 1 pointr/AstroGaming

This is what I bought

There is also a Western Digital My Book external drive plugged into my Xbox via usb

So far the isolator has completely suppressed the buzz on my mic. After a few tests there is a quiet buzz that’s now in the background of the recordings. (Not in my headset like it used to)

I’m trying to fiddle with it but the main problem is solved with that thing I bought

EDIT: in my computer settings I turned down the mic volume to 70 and that was enough to get rid of the buzz on the recordings. I think it’s all good now

u/GingerHero · 1 pointr/buildapc

It depends on which connector you’re using. If it’s just the 3.5mm jack then the mpow one will be just fine:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/mobyhead1 · 1 pointr/audio

Perhaps you need a ground loop isolator like this.

You might also want to test whether your computer is actually connected to ground.

u/chipmunk1135 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch
u/dextersgenius · 1 pointr/LineageOS

This has nothing to do with LineageOS. I've had this issue in all ROMs, even going back to the OG Nexus 7 running the ROM that started it all, the one and only Timur ROM.

Basically it's a power issue, and when your DAC doesn't work it can be a combination of several issues so without actually looking at your setup and testing its hard to guess where the problem can lie. I could write an entire article about this but this is not the proper place for this discussion. Anyways I'd first look at getting a USB Isolator if you don't have one already, but depending on your setup you may need to add a capacitor between the DAC and the power supply or maybe even get a separate power supply if your DAC has a tendency to draw too much power. Some people have had success with using a USB Decrapifier like the one made by Schiit.

Bear in mind that a LOT of issues arise out of using a poor quality car charger and/or cable. Most no-brand OTG Y cables are of poor quality (insufficient thickness). I had to shorten my OTG cable by a few inches to make up for the power losses.

Anyways I'm no electrical engineer so I can't give you accurate advice sorry especially without knowing your exact setup, but I suggest asking at the Hydrogen Audio forums, there's plenty of similar posts there already.

Personally I've given up on using DACs in the car because tbh in the end it wasn't worth it especially since when driving I couldn't actually tell the difference between the DAC and playing the audio directly. What did make a significant difference though was getting a good head unit and a ground loop noise isolator. Delivering clean power to your tablet and then filtering the noise further using an isolator makes all the difference.

u/ReverendEntity · 1 pointr/audio

Ah-ha. I was going to suggest buying a ground loop isolator and plugging it in between your PC and headset. If the problem turns up again, something for you to consider.

u/Shaggy_One · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Thanks for the extra suggestions. I also have the X2s and agree they are incredible sounding headphones. If OP has the money to burn then these take the spot of the SHP9500 easy.

For the mic, I prefer the boom mic since I had issues with my keyboard getting picked up on my Blue Snowball while I had it. I even tried putting dampers on my MX Brown keyboard to get rid of the clack. GREAT sound quality, but it picked up literally everything.

As for ground loop hums I've never had a problem with that but something like the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator is a great solution. Using one in my car as it is an incredibly noisy environment for EMI.

u/DaddysLootz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor or using a Ground Loop Isolator

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.


Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

u/XmentalX · 1 pointr/techsupport

It's one of these guys

Here is how they work

If you pick one up off amazon to try and it doesn't work their return policy is great for these purposes.

u/manero64 · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Oh yeah, I also use a pair of these to isolate the audio in and out, it seems to help:

u/BrannigansLuv · 1 pointr/mazda6

You need these things and to remove the radio real quick which is not hard (find a YouTube video)


Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Car Kit (Hands-Free Car Adapter, Bluetooth to 3.5mm Aux Adapter,Apt-X)

Aux cord kit

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long)

Ground Loop Isolator (also is female to female so you can plug the BT kit into the aux which are both male plugs)

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/dtxmax · 1 pointr/sffpc

Connected to the aux on the motherboard.

3400G, 16GB 3200mhz ram, pico 160XT.

Zero whine from anything. Speakers are dead silent when not playing anything.

There are ground loop isolators you can buy to go between the motherboard and speakers if you’re that concerned.


Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/ShowMeTheMonee · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I had also tried different outlets on my wall and I still had horrible interference. In the end, I speculate that the interference might have been coming from something in my computer, like the graphics card? But I dont know this for sure - I just know that the ground loop isolator fixed it straight off.

For what it's worth, I used something similar to this one - an inline isolator. I think mine is a different brand, but it's the same idea.

u/AlphaBella_ · 1 pointr/u_AlphaBella_
u/peanut_butter_lover4 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Static is probably a grounding issue with the front headphone jack. The front headphone jack is typically part of the case that gets plugged into the motherboard. There is a high chance of it being of low quality.

Use a USB audio source (like a USB headset or a DAC) or use the rear headphone jack (which is part of the motherboard).

If you want to use the front headphone jack, this will most likely solve the problem (I used US Amazon since I couldn't find a similar product on the Netherlands Amazon website).

u/Dark_24 · 1 pointr/buildapc

How are the Speakers Powered? You might have a floating ground issue?

You could try something like this between the AUX port and the AUX cable:

Or a bad AUX cable?

u/SocialistNixon · 1 pointr/CarAV

It may not be the same issue as I had in my old car, but try one of these.

It’s a ground loop interrupter and it got rid of the buzzing I used to have when using the aux. Like night and day difference.

u/readwiteandblu · 1 pointr/audio

Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.

Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).

So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.

Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.

Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.

Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/swiftcashew · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Sounds like you need a ground loop isolator, I had to get one of these to fix the static noise in my line-in jack

u/Aspirant_Fool · 1 pointr/techsupport

Probably is interference, unlikely to be any way to eliminate it without replacing the GPU, but when I've had similar issues in the past these things have always worked for me.

u/Perry7609 · 1 pointr/Android

I use this in my Kia at the moment. Works great! Wish it has a forward/rewind part at times, but it plays pretty well otherwise.

Also get a noise isolator in case you want to charge things at the same time.

u/3sleeves · 1 pointr/OP1users

That can be prevented with a ground loop isolator on the OP-1 output.

I've had laptops and cell phones make that noise while charging as well, but the OP-1 does have a pretty loud whine.

u/ekimnella · 1 pointr/amazonecho

If you are using an audio cable to connect to an external speaker you might need something like this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/Astrobound · 1 pointr/ios

This isn’t a solution necessarily, but it may fix your speakerphone problem. I used to use AUX in my car before I found this little Bluetooth-AUX receiver. Plugs into both a cig lighter and your AUX, then every time you turn your car on your phone automatically connects to Bluetooth. Pretty handy, and works like a charm.

I’d recommend also picking this up if you’re interested - it silences the weird static noise the BT receiver produces through the car speakers.

u/DdCno1 · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

I had the exact same issue. A PC and a few consoles, constantly having to plug headphones between them, it got annoying. I solved this issue with a simple sound mixer (less than 30 bucks on Amazon Germany, couldn't find it on Amazon US, but here's the exact model on Ebay). Four different devices just plug into the mixer and one output goes to my speaker, which in turn has my headphones and my bass cushion (it's a thing and it's amazing) plugged into it. Note that I had to use various adapters and converters, since this particular sound mixer uses 6.35mm mono audio jacks (two of them for each device), which I converted to RCA (use mono, not stereo adapters). PS2 and PS3 just connect directly via RCA with their analog cables, my Xbox One uses an HDMI audio extractor (powered by one of the console's USB ports) and a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and my PC the same kind of adapter, without the converter, of course.

The big advantage of this is that I don't have to switch between anything. All sound ends up in my headphones, without me having to do anything after the initial ten minute setup (which really just consisted of plugging everything in).

It is worth mentioning that with cheap sound mixers like the one I'm using there's likely going to be some humming and other noises, which my speakers thankfully filter out entirely before they reach my headphones. You may need an additional filter, which are however rather cheap. With my headphone directly plugged into the mixer, which I did just for testing, I also noticed that the general sound level was very low, which once again wasn't an issue anymore once I had plugged my speaker in between mixer and headphones.

u/LawlessCoffeh · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Funny you should mention that, I think all Z5's DO share the issue, because I bought the first set from Best Buy, returned them because they wouldn't price match, got the same speakers from amazon, and am now just praying that the ones suggested work, because oh my god returning stuff is a pain in the ass. Heck I wonder if one of these might help lol.

Also, it's sudden volume changes you say?

u/eliminate1337 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Could be a ground loop. Does your power strip have proper grounding? Try plugging your speakers into different outlets (i.e. not through the power strip that also contains your PC).

How high is the gain on your speakers? You should max out your PC's software volume control and lower the gain on your speakers.

If none of that works, you could try a ground loop isolator

u/Rommsey · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

MPow does make a Noise filter. I use it and it does work well for the problem of noise. In terms of battery, I turn mine off each time I leave the car (occasionally forget) alas for extended use I just plug the power cable in.

I hear what you're saying though. Since I have the newer one I don't think the issues with it are as extensive as the prior generation ones.

u/4eyescreative · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Get yourself one of these to kill that nasty ground loop and enjoy!

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/mongoose0330 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

You may need a ground loop isolator. I bought this one and it fixed the issue for me.

u/jellymaster2 · 1 pointr/Twitch

You have a ground loop, you need a noise reducing 3.5mm cable. Here's an adapter that'll do it that's prime on Amazon. This is a common problem for cars when using a charger+your aux jack to your stereo.

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/Zeos

The Micca Origen MIGHT solve your issue but if your power hum extends to your USB it will pass over. I ended up using a Ground Loop Isolator to fix my issues but that can mess with the frequency response.

u/Beanna · 1 pointr/Zeos

Ah yes I forgot about the mic... So I guess I'll go for the X1s anyway and plug the mic into my motherboard with a jack extension cable and hope for the best.

Just to double check, if that causes a gound loop, a noise isolator like the Mpow one plugged between the X1s and the X2 would work fine right?

Thanks again for being so available, it's greatly appreciated.

u/robbierob89 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I have 2013 Cruze with Bluetooth phone support but no audio. I use a dongle similar to this one along with this (cuts out humming noise). Setup works great, music runs through the adapter and phone calls come in through the car's built in Bluetooth. My OG XL Pixel auto connects to both when I start my car.

u/WJMack · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/TheOSC · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you are still having this problem I can not recommend getting a Ground Loop isolator enough.


Amazon Link


It creates an isolation point which breaks ground loops (the cause of the interference) this thing is pretty much a $10 get out of jail free card for tons of audio quirks.

u/Schwein_ · 1 pointr/techsupport

I had a pretty simlair problem with my speakers. I don't know if this will help you but the solution for me was to buy a 'Noise Isolator'.

u/EmceeSpike · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yeah it's coming from the speakers. I didn't turn the car on, i just had the radio on. I'd turn up the volume without any songs playing and it makes this loud frequency noise, then when I play the music I can still hear it faintly.

It sounds like this :

You think using something like this would help?

u/ElTurbo · 1 pointr/prius

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/Riebeckite · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Interesting... looks like that may be my problem. From what I read briefly it seems like I can fix this with a ground lift or a ground loop isolator. Any thoughts between the two?

u/PhantomJulien · 1 pointr/audiophile

Do I just need to buy a group loop isolator to resolve the issue? like this?

So my external monitor (LG monitor), I plan on using it with an Apple TV (which is a black box) and unfortunately there’s no sound coming out anywhere as my monitor has no internal speakers. Therefore I’d have to plug in my apple tv via hdmi to my monitor, then use speakers to the monitor.

I plug my speakers into the wall as well so I’m not sure if that somewhat breaks the loop

EDIT: link

u/l0n3wanderer · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, I think I got this.


  1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
  2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
  3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
  4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
  5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.

    So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

    Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?
u/Megatf · 1 pointr/Twitch

Some ways to troubleshoot audio issues is ensure that your Focusrite and your streaming PC are plugged into the same power source (Differing power sources can cause line noise), your XLR cable could be shitty, your audio device could be failing, the gain on your Focusrite Scarlett could be too high, the audio device settings could be crappy.


One last thing it could be is to go into SLOBS, then right click your microphone setting, then see if there is a GAIN filter that is applied. Once I accidentally added a GAIN filter while messing around to my microphone in SLOBS and it was causing issues. The only filters your microphone should have is a Noise Suppression and a Noise Gate Filter (Or Alternatively a VST filter if you're really savvy).


If it's a wiring issue then:

Ground Loop Isolator should solve your problem. It's likely your motherboard audio device causing issues. A 3.5mm input into your PC is getting line noise. Ground Loop Isolators are super cheap, you can order them on Amazon or go to a local audio store and pick one up for <$10.

This is what I use for the inputs into my streaming PC that have this noise you're referring too (Has many ways it can be caused), it eliminates it without any noticeable reduction in audio quality.

u/LordXemnasXIII · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yes I ended up purchasing this and it cleared everything up.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator...

u/localhostrulez · 1 pointr/gadgets

Yeah, these things. You plug one end into the source, and the other into the car’s input.

I would start without one, but if you start getting a hum from the stereo, add one.

u/MUSAFFA1 · 1 pointr/audio

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

u/71678910 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Try a ground loop isolator between your aux device and the aux port. It can help in a lot of cases. Worked to eliminate a high pitch hum in my line.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/audioengineering

You can probably use a ground loop isolator to keep the DC voltage away from your guitar.

Ordinarily, a computer microphone is not designed for a guitar, but can be used with one. Hope this works for you.

u/DarkS29 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Do you have something similar laying around? Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/gameboy2k · 1 pointr/headphones

My HiFime ES9023 DAC has a slight hiss when I put my volume above 60%. Does anyone have any experiences with a ground loop isolator like this or have any other solutions?

u/JustTryin2H3lp · 1 pointr/PUBGConsole

I use the a50s with built in mix amp and it works fine. You will want to invest 10$ into a ground loop isolator to remove interference.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/SteggyB · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

You hear a loud buzz in the recordings? Sounds like a simple ground loop issue. PS4 is not grounded, PCs are. When you connect an analog cable in between them, it causes a ground loop which causes buzzing.


If I'm correct in my assumptions, there are 2 solutions to this:

  1. If your aux cable is connected to your PS4 controller, make sure it's wireless. If the PS4 controller is plugged into the PS4 via USB it will pass through the ground loop.
  2. If wireless controller isn't an option, or the aux cable is plugged into the PS4 itself using some sort of HDMI audio extractor, you'd simply need a ground loop isolator - they're 10 bucks:
u/GiftyMayne · 1 pointr/pocketoperators

I'm not going to pretend I know more of the science behind why these work, but usually if I have a noisy signal, I will throw a ground loop isolator into the mix and it usually clears it up. I originally bought this thing because the headphone out from my monitor spits out NOISY ass audio with my nintnedo switch, this thing cleared up all the noise. Don't know if it will work for this case, but could be worth a shot:

I use mine when I sample to my po33 to be safe

u/LlamaInATux · 1 pointr/ManjaroLinux

Get a ground loop isolator. I use one in my car, makes a huge difference.

u/TurtlePrius · 1 pointr/prius

It’s very likely this. Mine did the same thing until I bought an isolator on Amazon:

u/BlckJesus · 1 pointr/CarAV

You mean like this? From what I’ve found, it seems that’s for use with aux cables. My head unit takes in audio over Bluetooth and sends it out directly over soldered wires connected to my harness. Would this still work the same way?

u/Sinpure · 1 pointr/Twitch

Thanks awwsyn. Noise Isolators? Like Ground Hum Eliminators? Did your experience present a similar sound? My incredibly limited experience indicated to me that the ground hum sound (which those helped with) were 50/60hz, based on where you are located. Again, VERY limited experience.

EDIT: these things? Might have to check it out, hadn't seen these ones at my local audio shop.

u/numbrmunchr · 1 pointr/essential

I went with these components Bluetooth aux adapter.[Adapter](BlueStream Paplio Bluetooth Handsfree Adapter - Bluetooth Receiver with 3.5mm AUX for High Quality Music / Navigation Streaming and Microphone for Calls (Black) [Ground Loop Isolator](Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) and a normal quick charger for the phone.

u/BriarRabbit · 1 pointr/DestinyTechSupport

Try picking up a ground loop isolator from amazon. I use this one and it works great Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/part_time_fun · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Get a ground loop isolator from Amazon.

I got this one and this exact problem went away. $9 well spent.

u/Crab-Battle · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm no expert but here's a few things you could try.

  • If your volume is set high on your speakers and sub try turning it down a bit and using the laptops volume controls instead.

  • try using a different 3.5mm cable or an RCA to 3.5mm cable

  • try connecting it to a phone or another device and see if it still buzzes

  • try plugging it into a different power outlet

  • try a [ground loop isolator] (

u/ArkAngel06 · 1 pointr/Android

I recommend one of these. They work great and let you control the music tracks, podcasts, audiobooks from the controller.

And you might need of these if you get a little bit of feedback like me.

u/JBTownsend · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ground loop noise. Can be fixed with ground loop isolator.

u/Erosis · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

You might want to try this isolator or [this one] ( You definitely have some sort of interference, but without looking at every single connection, it is really hard to tell. My motherboard was the culprit and my Asus Xonar external couldn't even deal with it. I ended up getting a completely separate DAC and amp and using optical. However, this isolator will most likely do the job if you don't plan on spending lots on hi-fi equipment in the future.

u/herbuser · 1 pointr/Zeos
u/5py0n · 1 pointr/headphones

I do hear a difference between PC and AMP/DAC. Not a massive one, but still. Bigger issue is volume. Even at max volume levels everywhere X2's still sound pretty quiet for me.


I'm not sure what is this good for exactly, but what about this thing called Ground Loop Noise Isolator?

Is this something that can help here?

u/killimaze · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

You might be getting some feedback from an aux input, I had a similar problem when I was running a dual card setup to record and stream at the same time on xbox. Im on PC now and I still use this, it works great!

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It sounds like a ground loop. Does the buzzing/whine get louder as you turn up the volume?

If so, there are a few solutions:

  1. Make sure the PC is properly grounded to the outlet. If you are using a surge protector, make sure the "GROUNDED" light is on (or the "NOT GROUNDED" light is off, depending on the model of surge protector).
  2. Make sure the outlet is properly grounded. There are two ways to determine this. If you have a multimeter, just set the multimeter for 120V read, stick the black probe into the actual prong for the outlet and the red into the ground on the outlet. If the multimeter reads 120V, you're grounded. The other way involves removing the actual outlet from the wall and I won't give the directions for that since I'm not an electrician and I don't want you to die if you screw up.
  3. Make sure the motherboard is properly grounded. Since you built the PC yourself, double check to see that you only installed the necessary standoffs and that you didn't miss any or add any extra ones.

    If none of the above options worked, you'll need to purchase a Ground Loop Isolator. Cheap and they work extremely well.
u/bbtehbuild · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Here's what I currently have:

2 JBL 308P MkII - Powered 8" Two-Way Studio Monitors

1 UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord

1 Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable

1 Google Chromecast Audio (Black)



The red dots symbolize want I do not have yet. I'm working on eventually getting:

1 JBL LSR310S 10" Powered Studio Subwoofer

1 Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Second Generation (2nd Gen) 2-in, 2-out USB Audio Interface


Note: I have all that I need right now, but know that I may eventually buy a subwoofer for my studio monitors, which would make the setup more complicated. I only need help with adding the subwoofer. How will I do it? Will I need more cords and another ground loop isolator? Do I need an audio interface to add a subwoofer? How will I connect my 2 studio monitors and future subwoofer to my Chromecast Audio, my future audio interface, and a ground loop isolator?

u/msimon7 · 1 pointr/hometheater

good point, was planning on getting some thing like this if that is the case to help defuse.

always open for other suggestions tho... :)

u/GloriousEggroll · 1 pointr/linux_gaming

generally you want to use the ac97 audio for the vm, which still has the occasional crackle (not bad, useable/playable), but a better solution is to get a cheap usb sound card, pass it to the vm, and use a 3.5mm audio cable to send the signal from it to the audio line-in(usually colored blue) on your system, then listen to the line-in via loopback on pulseaudio. you may also need a ground loop isolator:

another note when using the ac97 audio is youll have to install the drivers in compatibility mode as win10 does not have drivers for it

u/DaemonSire · 1 pointr/headphones

Why not try a ground loop isolator? Like this:

Might fix the ground loop problem.

But you should still get sound even if you have ground loop.

u/Turbosack · 1 pointr/headphones

You could try one of these things to fix the buzz:

u/SykinDB · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I used this one and it worked pretty fine iirc:

u/LegendaryMood · 1 pointr/Twitch

That mixer was actually the first mixer I bought, too. It started my long, expensive journey into audio hardware specifically for 2 PC streaming setups. I tried many mixers, got frustrated and tried to downscale to just an interface, got frustrated with that and tried Voicemeeter but hated that.

If you're budget is around 200-400$ for the mixer, you can go with a ZED 10 FX. This was a popular mixer, with streamers like Lirik and Waffle using it. Waffle might even still use it. It has the ability to essentially produce 2 output mixes using a technique called mix minus. The mixer as a master mix output and an AUX/FX output. The mixer also has the ability to send inputs to master output or FX output or both - this is what enables this mixer to do the mix minus technique. You're basically abusing the FX output.

Going the mixer route like above will result in needing a lot of cables, "buzz boxes", etc. The ZED is also pretty big and takes up a lot of desk space. It gets messy, but it's all true-analog if that's your goal.

If you don't care about hearing the audio from your stream PC, you can easily just buy a line splitter and split your mic line - one to gaming PC the other to streaming PC. But, I imagine you want to hear the audio from your stream PC, too. You could just use a standard 3.5mm cable from stream PC back to gaming PC and then use software like Voicemeeter to mix them into your headphones. I did this for a bit, but I'm not a fan of Voicemeeter because it kept randomly not working for me.

You could always go the Voicemeeter VBAN route, and just pipe everything over your LAN using their VBAN feature. But for me this seemed to break a lot and just annoyed me. It's neat though and requires no cables or mixing hardware.

In the end, the best thing that I've found and settled on and currently use is just a higher end audio interface that comes with some really great mixing software. The interface I use is the Babyface Pro. Alone, this is just a glorified audio interface, but I also use a Digiface USB which is a digital audio interface. I found these through Lirik, who uses this now.

So, in the end, my setup is as so ...

  1. Babyface Pro plugged into my gaming PC
  2. Digiface USB plugged into streaming PC
  3. Headphones plugged into Babyface Pro

    With this setup, which is essentially just 2 audio interfaces, you can isolate basically any audio device into a recording channel and send it to and from the Digiface / Babyface. I've got channels that only I can hear, channels my stream can hear, mixes of channels, etc. I have my game console on its own channel, etc. It all "just works" and you can have MANY output channels instead of struggling to achieve only two. For example, the Digiface that I use has 66 channels.

    I do also have a Cloudlifter in my chain, but the Babyface Pro is good enough to give gain to my mic (sm7b). I'm tempted to take the Cloudlifter out and free up even more desk space.

    Audio is by far the biggest annoyance when moving to a two PC setup. Hope this helps.
u/Dinotective · 1 pointr/Twitch

Oh! Then you're ready to roll! The set should've come with some set up instructions. The setup should look like this:

Xbox USB and Optical go into the mixamp

Headset connects to mixamp

Stream/aux out goes from the mixamp to your PC's 3.5 audio-in port. You'll be able to add that audio as a source in OBS.

But before you do all this, install the Astro software on your PC so you can program the mixamp. I recommend setting it up so that ONLY chat audio goes through the 3.5 port, not the game audio (game audio will be better quality if you just use the audio from the HDMI/elgato).

Tweaking your sound levels will take some time because (as far as I know) you don't really have a way of monitoring/listening to what your viewers will hear as your streaming. What I did was record myself playing a quick game , joining chat and trying to talk as much as possible, then going back and listening to the recording. Based on what you hear, you tweak your game audio, chat audio and mic audio levels. I had to do this several times before I found a balance I was content with.

One last thing is that if you hear some high pitch interference coming from the 3.5 audio, you'll need a loop ground noise isolator. Here's the one I use:

u/Obi-Shinobi · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Is it like on old AM radio in cars you hear the engine noise in the radio? If so try this,

I had a lot of noise in my PC setup and that fixed it for me.

u/pepcfreak · 1 pointr/Twitch

I ended up getting two of these after some internet searching.

They did the job extremely well.

u/Mullematsch · 1 pointr/Twitch

Follow up to all of this, maybe someone stumbles across this thread eventually.

So the FX send output works, I connected it to my PC with a cable and a buzz box.

It is not mix minus, meaning I have the mic separately and the other output is everything I hear (PC audio + microphone).

Surprising to me was that the FX nob functions as gain for the FX send output. Meaning if I have it at 10 the signal is all distorted and if I have it a 1, I still get a clear output just more quiet.

Currently I have it at 3, that way its the same level as my voice using the stereo output.

This did fix my discord problem which is great.

u/Schlongathon · 1 pointr/audiophile


I recently bought the Micca PB42x and am having some problems that perhaps could be fixed. The speaker which contains the internal amp is making a whisling/whining sound whenever it is on. It doesn't matter if I have audio playing, nor does the volume of the audio affect it. I have it connected via the 3.5mm cable that came with it and the two speakers are joined via the speaker wire that came with it.

My current set-up is not ideal (I will take and upload pictures after work). I think that I might be getting some noise or perhaps there is a ground loop somewhere. I purchased this but I did not notice any noticeable difference, not even a little bit. Maybe the ground loop isolator I bought is faulty or I attempted to fix something that wasn't the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

u/Nerosephiroth · 1 pointr/techsupport

Like all wires, they are susceptible to ground loop interference. The best way to accommodate for this interference is a ground loop isolator. Headphone Ground Loop Isolator

This is to keep buzzing noises from reacting badly with devices that also draw power from your laptop, sound system, or when your Desktop is not properly grounded and you get a similar buzzing. I notice this primarily when I am in my car and hear a horrible buzzing when I plug my phone into the car 12v charge port, but also have the aux cable plugged in. Similar situations can occur when a headphone is placed into an onboard audio jack with the laptop plugged into wall mains.

As per usual this is a simple solution to a specific problem. Your problem may be with a break in the insulation in the headphone cable, inspect for damage, and move devices that generate RF or electrical interference from your headphone cable in general.

u/I_Am_The_Shazbot · 1 pointr/audio Its pretty cheap but from what I have read online all ground loop noise isolaters will reduce audio quality.

u/5eth · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you want to use in game voice chat with your stream hearing all of the audio, you will need a few things:

Splitter - This splitter is the only one I found that correctly splits the Mic line from the Headset line. This will plug directly into the Switch, then you'll plug your headset into the jack with the mic, and the other jack will be a 3.5mm line going into the Elgato.

Ground Loop Isolator - The splitter is going to create an audio loop buzzing noise, you'll need this to isolate that and keep the audio clean. This will go between the splitter and the Elgato.

3.5mm Cable - If you don't already have one, you'll need one of these to link the Switch to the Elgato.


That is the only way I was able to use in game voice chat while streaming. Currently I just use Discord to chat through the PC, and send the Switch audio to the PC as well so it all goes to the stream. However, if you want to use in game voice chat you'll need to do the above.


u/ev3rm0r3 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

[Oak Wood 8' x1"x6" 30$]
[4" Midwoofer 1 Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" 12$] (
[3" Full Range 2 Dayton Audio PC83-4 3" 20$] (
[1" Softdome Tweeter 2 Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1" 40$] (
[3" Passive Radiator 2 830878 3-1/2" Passive Radiator 20$] (
[Crossovers 2 uxcell 2 Pcs 130W 2-Way 15$] (
[2.1 100x1 50x2 Amplifer 1 AIYIMA TPA3116D2 25$] (
[26650 Rechargable Cells 6 26650 Litokala 5000mah 25$] (
[BMS 24V 1 6S 15A 24V PCB BMS Protection Board 2$] (
[Bluetooth Board 1 Bluetooth w/ mp3 tf fm + controls 4$] (
[Boost Controller step-up-down 1 Regulated Step-up-Down Boost controller 3$] (
[dc-dc 1w converter 5v 1 1w 5v dc-dc converter for bluetooth module 1$] (
[dc power jack 1 dc power jack 1$] (
[3.5mm sound isolator 1 3.5mm sound isolater (filters out ground noise on line in) 10$] (
[power button 1 Lit power button 8$] (
[Battery Holders 6 Battery Holders 10$] (

u/olorin_istar · 1 pointr/infiniti

This is the bluetooth unit
You will also need one of these because when you are powering the bluetooth dongle with that rear cig lighter it will add a ton of static to the sound unless you have this installed.

Ill look for pics on my phone

u/jdegraff89 · 1 pointr/e39

You need to get a Ground Loop Noise Isolator.

Thats exactly the one I used in my car when I installed an AUX and found it wouldn't work when the phone was charging. It also kept the stereo in AUX mode when the ignition was shut instead of having to switch back to it everytime.

u/majorjxp · 1 pointr/Lexus

You will want a ground loop isolator.

It will eliminate the car noise.

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/oneplussupport

def sounds like a grounding issue then! I had the same problem with my ceiling speakers.

You can buy devices that kill and solve this grounding feedback problem. This device worked perfectly for me. You place it between your phone and the car stereo system and it should solve your problem.

hope this helps!

u/rjames24000 · 1 pointr/PS4

I have been able to do it and would be happy to share my experience with you to save you the pain of my research...

I am using this sound card that comes with cronusmax which I plug into my ps4

I have this trss audio splitter plugged into said sound card

There was a ton of ground loop feed back... so i had to get 2 of these plugged into the split mic and headphone ports

then plug one end into your computers microphone (ps4 audio out goes into pc mic in)

and the other end.. (ps4 audio in) goes into your pc's audio out...

for control of the audio im using voice meeter and voice mod... My headset is a wireless ps4 platinum headset with the usb plugged into the computer.. and I use a normal physical microphone rather than the platinum headset mic .. I havean old launchpad midi controller used for muting and various audio effects.

u/chhopsky · 1 pointr/Twitch

I recommend NOT using GameCapture to stream. As usual, the tier list goes:

I'm Just Getting Started: OBS Studio
I Want To Do Better: XSplit Personal
Time To Get Serious: Gameshow
Professional: XSplit Premium, Wirecast

XSplit will let you choose to play the audio from the xbox through your PC's main audio output.

Of course, the best way to do this is to route the audio output from your Xbox through the Aux input of an Astro Mixamp, remembering that if they're connected to the same power source you should use a $10 Ground Loop Isolator to avoid a mild buzzing sound. But don't worry, that's just for you and it doesn't come through to the stream.

I'm going to do a 2016 wrapup article detailing all this soon.

u/pegamixels · 1 pointr/wow

I had the same exact problem. The speakers plugged into my sound card would produce this awful coil whine that was terrible while playing WoW or Marvel Heroes. I built a new PC and the sound stopped whenever I used the front headphones jack, but the back still produced this issue.

I bought this:

I no longer have the coil whine coming out of my speakers/headphones. Pretty sure any ground loop isolator would work.

u/Colek1Rewson · 1 pointr/bose

I actually do this in a nice little way. I have my headphones connected to the PC via bluetooth, and use a male to male audio cord to connect my Switch to the line-in port on the motherboard. This allows my PC to read and project the Switch audio as well as Discord simultaneously through the headset.

You may have to tweak some settings on your PC for this to work, and for me I needed a noise isolator as well to get rid of any static background noise.
This is what I use:

u/jm090 · 1 pointr/headphones

I had to buy this item below for my tube amp:


this fixed it instantly. I cannot hear the noise from any of my other amps. Mine seemed to be specifically related to my video card though, and also my house does not have any true grounds, its pretty old.

u/tmwrnj · 1 pointr/Guitar

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

u/iRacerJJ · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

So just to update a solution

  1. Get the base station away from your rig
  2. Ground your rig/servo motor
  3. Use Ferrites on all valve Index connectors and Servo connectors

    eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black
u/thisgameissoreal · 1 pointr/techsupport

you could try throwing some ferrite beads on your line. If it got any better you'd know it was interference.

u/MDavidP · 1 pointr/xboxone

I picked up one these to run the USB from my Astro mixamp to my Xbox. I was having the same issue and this fixed it. They're plug and play too, no drivers. It is 50 bucks though so maybe not the most economical solution.

Look in to ferrite cores too. I have these wrapped around almost every cord I own.

Audio Quest Jitterbug

Ferrite Core

u/topcat81 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Just thought of something else... What about Bluetooth? Have you paired your Echo with something that could be transmitting to it? Could someone else have paired with it who is nearby when you hear the voice(s)?

Going back to potential RFI, I'm with /u/moronmonday526. Put a ferrite or two on the power cord and see if it helps. Also, try a different outlet in a different room.

If you have a battery base, you could just, of course, unplug the AC adapter and confirm/rule out that as a source (basically acting as an antenna).

FWIW, I haven't had any RFI with either the Echo or Google Home when I transmit (I'm one of the ham radio guys moronmonday mentioned). That said, we hams tend to be good at tracking down RFI and most hams are willing to lend a hand to help out a neighbor. Have any around you could call on? I doubt his/her radio is getting into your Echo from your description, but they can lend a hand in sniffing out the offending source if it is RFI.

Edit: fix link

u/Heatedcathode · 1 pointr/amateurradio
u/tominabox1 · 1 pointr/vinyl

culprit is likely the cable/wire that feeds into your powered speakers. keep this very short. If that doesn't help, pick up these and clip to the wires as close to the speaker inputs as possible. Helps even more if yu can loop the wire through the beads like this:

u/Sariden · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I've been struggling from audio noise/pops as well. I recently decided I wanted to build an all-in-one console out of a lunch box, the 7" official screen, this battery bank as well as these speakers and this amp to run off GPIO pins. After some struggle I finally got it to work; however, the crackling and noisy audio was still present like using the headphone jack. I tried doing the additions to the config.txt file for dither and pwm modes but they didn't do anything. I also can't seem to do sudo rpi-update from the console.

Today I have some snap on ferrite cores coming in so i'm going to see if that helps. If that fails I'm either going to give a USB adapter or the in-line ground loop linked by rhinofinger a chance.

u/FuryRosewood · 1 pointr/rccars

While you are at it, replace the lossy Tamiya connector there. wire both ends and you wont need to adapt anymore.

u/BrutalGT · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The only video I could find of the MOSFET board installation was very long and somewhat unclear to a newbie. It looks like he mounts it under the printer rather than the control box and overall just seemed really difficult.

I just went ahead and pushed the button on my order from Amazon that includes the XT60 Connectors w/ Heat Shrink and the 6-1 Soldering Kit I would have preferred the MOSFET but in hopes of not getting over my head, it was a total of about 30$ and seems doable.

u/barnacledoor · 1 pointr/Multicopter

so i'm looking at buying these bulbs, these connectors and this wire. altogether it'll be around $20, but i'll only need some of this stuff for each.

i'm trying to decide if it is worth buying the extra connectors and wire or if i should just buy this pair of connectors with wire already soldered on and the bulbs and save myself $10.

u/The_Backwoods_Nerfer · 1 pointr/Nerf

These are the ones. It says "finware" not sure if its the manufacturer or the distributor..... The item has 114 reviews and the rating is 5 out of 5.....

u/Who_GNU · 1 pointr/flying

Was your phone connected to a charger? (or anything that is electrically connected to the aircraft in any way) If so, you'll need a ground isolator to get rid of the buzz.

u/jedcred · 1 pointr/amazonecho

You can also get something like this:

I actually spent a fair amount of time looking for a grounded USB charger like the one you linked, but didn't come across it. Thanks for linking it; I'll give it a shot with another Dot and speaker combo.

u/DavidBernheart · 1 pointr/htpc

Connecting all of your devices to the same circuit may eliminate or lessen the problem. A ground loop isolator may solve the problem. Connecting your devices optically if possible is a pretty fool-proof way of solving the issue. Here's a good video to help you understand what's happening.

u/PUNtastic77 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Thanks for the detailed response! I have the headset powered through the TV which has a USB port. The controller is plugged into the Xbox. I have tried plugging in the headset through different power sources, USB, my laptop, the wall, etc. There is still a humming that comes from the headset being plugged into the controller. I am going to purchase this. Do you think it will help?

u/EpisodeOneWasGreat · 1 pointr/audiophile

If you're convinced that the cable is introducing noise, consider an opto-isolator, close to the receiver/amplifier end if possible:

It's also possible that your different cables have different pinouts and TRS spacings.

u/Left_ctrl · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yeah, essentialy you'd use headphone or line out to a cable like this. Then use another cable like that from the mixer to the PC. You might need a ground loop isolator like this to eliminate any hum coming from the PCs.

I realize now this may have been what you were talking about before. I was up super late and my reading comprehension may have been suffering. For some reason I thought you were going to run both PCs into a splitter and then into the mixer. TL;DR I'm dumb.

u/Quipinside · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Do you get any noise when using that setup? I've been plugging my switch into my computer sound card input line and had buzzing until I bought a ground loop noise isolator for it.

This one, it elminates the buzzing but makes the overall sound quieter.

u/f4f4f4f4f4f4f4f4 · 1 pointr/vitahacks

There are audio filters (mostly made for cars) that electrically isolate the input and output at a small loss of fidelity. Example:

u/illGATESmusic · 1 pointr/audioengineering

You need an AuKey ground loop hum remover. They are real cheap and will totally handle this problem.

Recent USB stuff causes this issue a LOT.

All my synths with USB connections cause it. I had to get one for each synth before it stopped.

It works tho!

This lil fella: AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator...

u/TessellatedGuy · 1 pointr/SwitchHacks

I have one from [Aukey] (

Edit: apparently the 14.50 dollar isolator from Kript is better at handling bass according to the top review, but it's also more expensive.

u/SgtBobIE · 1 pointr/steelseries

You might want to look at a ground loop isolator, I had to get one when doing the same as you. Without it, there was bad static, You plug the aux cable into it then into the aux in on the transmitter.


This is what I have used, I also use one to run sound From one PC to the Line-In on another PC.


u/socalproxyplayers · 1 pointr/Dell

you need an audio filter. I run one of these with all my docks. it's because of a lack of EMF shielding or electromagnetic field shielding. see, when electricity runs through a circuit it inherently 'leaks' an EMF field. This field is then absorbed by other components (if they're unshielded) and those components absorb the field and this creates what's called 'noise' on the channel. this noise can manifest itself as hissing, cracking, or popping when heard by human ears.

most EMF noise is harmlessly absorbed and accounted for by components when doing day to day operations. but audio chips and ethernet cables are most impact by this. that's why ethernet cables are shielded. but cheap audio chips aren't unfortunately. getting a 'filter' will remove the 'noise' off of the audio 'line'. can't recommend them enough.

There's hundreds of these on Amazon but you could start here:

u/rufus40444 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I actually think this is a common issue.
You need something like this:

EDIT: yeah, we posted the same product. lol

u/gladiator0607 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I ran a 3.5 mm cable from the headphone port of my Switch to the audio in on my motherboard with a ground loop noise isolator in between the two. You don't need the ground loop noise isolator if the Switch is in handheld mode but if it's docked, you'll get some wicked buzzing and potentially mess up your motherboard if you don't have the isolator. Works like a charm but I'm not sure how you'd accomplish that with the PS4.

u/Yolo_Swagginson · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I had a similar problem going from the line out of my Fiio E10k into a power amp. Put this in the 3.5mm run and it fixed it.

u/ShadowBoogers · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Assuming the cable hasn't been damaged, plug it into the motherboard (not the case, those cables are poorly shielded) and use one of these:

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included

u/mdcio · 1 pointr/MINI

This happens to me too, but only when I’m plugged into aux and charging at the same time. You could try a ground loop isolator, which supposedly solves this problem but I haven’t confirmed myself.

u/ChaosandTerror · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

That's because it isn't grounded properly and you need an aux cable that specifically grounds the signal.

u/Maltosier · 1 pointr/letsplay

Yes. I've had this problem.

You may need to buy a specific device to solve this issue.

Here is more info:

I bought the cable it recommends and it solved the problem entirely. :)

u/jmickelonis · 1 pointr/steelseries

Are you using the line in on your PC? You need a ground loop isolator. It'll do this with any headset you try.

u/ZippZappZopp · 1 pointr/audio

Looks like the guy in this post was having the same problem, and he fixed it with one of these.

Last thing you could try is plugging the switch and PC into the same outlet/power bar.

If that doesn't work, and there's no 3.5mm output on your TV, that noise isolator would probably be the easiest solution.

u/EliteMist · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Yes I do have a cartridge copy but I am sure it is the 3.5mm cord since it only happens when I use that (I have tried a few cords) thinking about trying this

u/sageredwood · 1 pointr/preppers

I have had very good luck with this.

So, if you are going to use headphones, like at all I would suggest getting this.

Handy for any headphone application. I carry one in my edc.

u/zaylivinglive · 1 pointr/techsupport

You don't need to but a new set of headphones at all, you can buy an extension like this and plug it up to the back
Or you could try something like this which would allow you to stay connected in the front. It works by removing the ground which is causing all of the static.

u/LaCafedora · 1 pointr/techsupport

Googling the Arctis Pro headset suggests to me that this is a wired headset. If it is wireless, then I've got no idea what's going on.

It sounds like your particular problem is a common one called ground loop noise, that occurs when source and destination use the same power supply or are connected to a common ground. My knowledge of electronics is limited, but I know about sound so I was able to research this enough to have a clue what might be going on. The fact that reducing the volume makes it go away is consistent with ground loop noise; lower volume means lower power and lower interference.

This could be an equipment defect, especially if this headset advertises clear 5x5 performance, though in my experience the advantages of a wired headset focus on ear comfort and constant uptime (no dependence on battery life). RF interference is an inevitable consequence of using a wire.

I suspect this noise may not exist until the signal reaches the computer, so using an inline filter won't remove it. It seems like a cheap part, though, so you could try it with minimal investment.

Alternatively, you could plug your headset into a tiny USB sound adapter. A dedicated sound adapter may be smart enough to take measures to prevent this from occurring by simply isolating the power feeds or filtering the interference. The price range on that is larger, and I don't know if a cheap one will be crap and not actually fix your problem. This one looks good to me:

OR... you could remove the noise with a software filter. I don't currently have this problem on any of my own equipment, so I can't test any of these, but something like NoiseGator may work.

That's all I've got. I hope this helps, or at least gives you a starting point to understand your problem better and find a solution.

u/rasamson · 1 pointr/Workers_And_Resources

What kind of connection to your PC do you have?

I'd try looking into a ground loop noise isolator and researching ground loops in general as it sounds like that's what's going on.

This might work for you:

u/evanbagnell · 1 pointr/amazonecho

BESIGN Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable

u/Jariners · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

I used this:

15ft MicroUSB & MiniUSB Dash Cam Hardwire Kit with Mini/LP Mini/ATO/Micro2 Fuse, Micro to Mini (and Type-C) Port Adapters and Battery Drain Protection System

Looks possible:

u/MikeDawg · 1 pointr/dashcams

Sure, I use this nunet model as an example, because it is almost universally compatible with different USB inputs, and I literally just finished installing it in my car:

It, and similar other models sell (US) for ~$15

Edit: added piece

u/zorroww · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I am using the Viofo A129, and using this hardwire kit.

It feels like metal.

u/fltsht · 1 pointr/cars

I installed this in my 01 Corolla a couple weeks ago. It fits in the stock mounting bracket and has AUX, BT and USB. All you will need to install it is this wiring harness, a set of crimp caps and a wire stripper/crimp tool.

The hardest part is wiring the new head unit to the wiring harness. The actual installation should take 10 minutes.

u/Itsfreezing · 1 pointr/prius

This provides all the info needed for the most part. I ordered the stereo from Crutchfield and it came with the OEM to aftermarket wiring harness needed, but I also needed to buy an additional harness to avoid the dreaded red triangle resulting from some installs. There is a way to fix this with a resistor but the harness seems to be more reliable.

Stereo: JVC KD-R950BT

Wiring Harnesses: Metra 70-1761:

Best Kits BHO1761 OEM Radio Wire Harness:

u/FlawedButFly · 1 pointr/CarAV

OK. So here is where I am. I have decided to first work on installing an aftermarket DOUBLE-DIN head unit with Bluetooth wireless speakerphone, Aux-in, etc. (and I will do the amp + subwoofer in the next phase).

So far I've purchased:

  1. Dash Kit which is apparently appropriate for my 1999 Lexus LS400: Scosche LS2085B
  2. Wire Harness Kit which someone on Amazon reported worked flawlessly for an aftermarket stereo in their 1998 Lexus LS400: [Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness] (

    Now (I believe) the only thing left for me to purchase is a double-din aftermarket head unit. Do you happen to know of any that would be compatible with this setup? Or am I pretty much able to use any head unit I want because I've installed a dash kit?

    Thank you so, so, so much. I can't tell you how much your help means.
u/Herp_in_my_Derp · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/MagicJello · 1 pointr/CarAV


Car- 2017 Toyota 86

HU -

Harness- Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring...

u/AOLFreeTrial · 1 pointr/ft86

If you want it to be easy as possible, you can use one of these (and you'll need to pick up a maestro sw or rr):


That covers the steering wheel controls and camera, antenna amp, and factory amp. You'll need to add a pin and wire on the harness (it's included) to power up the factory amp and door speakers. Also, ignore the instructions included on the two 5-pin connectors - just connect the two on the harness together if it's not shipped as such. If you want to try to keep costs down and make your own, you'll need to wire in a voltage converter for the camera power feed.

You'll also need the standard Toyota harness for the rest of the speakers. You can use one of AutoHarnessHouse direct connect Pioneer ones, or just make your own a little cheaper. I believe this is the part, but please double check - I don't have the part number handy right now (You can actually get these at Best Buy, it's in their computer system):


For the 4500, I also recommend either wiring up their GPS antenna, or just using an adapter for the OEM one (I went this route just to keep things clean). This pack contains the correct adapter (it's the one with the bright green end, maybe you can find it standalone cheaper):


If you don't hook up the GPS antenna, the head unit will throw up an error message every time you start up a navigation app in AndroidAuto (it'll still work, it's just annoying).

Lastly, don't forget an antenna adapter and (optionally the OEM USB port adapter cable). I opted not to use the USB port since I have a high speed charger that uses a 12v socket. Same as above, please double check this to make sure it is the right one, but here's what the antenna adapter looks like:

You'll need to wire in the blue wire to power the antenna amp. Don't hook it up to a constant 12v feed (yello), either use a switched feed, or wire it to the matching blue feed on the back of the harness (it's the one that feeds out of the two pins jumped together by a blue wire).


Sorry I can't be 100% on the last couple of adapters - if you have trouble confirming feel free to DM me and I will be happy to check when I get home from work, I kept the packaging for later reference, and again, Best Buy does have these in their computer, so even if your local one doesn't carry them, they should at least be able to give you the part number.

u/Herrowgayboi · 1 pointr/4Runner

I don't have RDS, but I do have the JBL Synthesis system, that looks like this.

That said, I have some confusion with the wiring harness...

  1. Do I NEED to pick up a JBL wiring harness just so that I can use the factory amp/sub?
  2. Can I use the regular wiring harness like this one, or will I need to pick up another one?


u/narib687 · 1 pointr/DIY

yea maybe.... Next time buy the wire harness for your car...They are like 3 bucks


u/LowBatteryLife · 1 pointr/ft86

Do yourself a favor and get a reverse harness set from something like Metra. It'll break out the connections into bare wires in fairly standard color coding. Yellow is hot +12V, Red is switched +12V, Black is Ground, Blue is amp +12V, etc.

Metra Harness Set

Antenna Adapter

u/TheRawCarnage · 1 pointr/WRX this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention

then the speaker harness.

and lastly the antenna harness

these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons

the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s

u/SonOfShem · 1 pointr/CarAV

I'm really only looking for the Bluetooth/AUX connections. Will this work for that? Or is there a better solution?

A wiring harnesss like this? I didn't realize you had to wire each connection up to an after market stereo. Meh, shouldn't be that bad.

Am I better off just getting something like this?

u/In_Dying_Arms · 1 pointr/CarAV



Steering wheel controls, if you want it.

2 screws below radio, and one behind the hazard (whole piece between vents comes out) then the whole panel comes off.

u/Xavdidtheshadow · 1 pointr/CarAV

Will I need to do the wiring myself? I was under the impression the harness would connect the systems without anything like that.

u/vamp1r3 · 1 pointr/CarAV

Is this the harness adapter you're referring to? Sorry I'm new to all of this (I paid bestbuy to have all of my stuff put in originally) so I have a couple more questions.

Will that mini amplifier power all 4 speakers? I only see a L and R so my assumption is that it'll only work for 2 speakers. Also, how do I power the amp? Is that what the remaining wires coming out of the adapter that aren't for the speakers are for? Lastly, is attaching the wires to the amp as easy as stripping the wire and twisting it around the pins? Thank you again for your help.

u/effin_dead_again · 1 pointr/CarAV

Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what to buy, but I'll take a stab...


u/UniquelyUnunique · 1 pointr/houston

Um...that's exactly what I'm doing but you still need to connect the stereo harness with the adaptor harness since stereos have different input configurations.

This is what I have:

u/TheBeesSteeze · 1 pointr/mazda3

I have this one

And used this install kit

It's cheap, has an integrated amp, has it's own enclosure, and kicks hard (get lots of compliments, even at 1/3 power).

Additionally, I like the fact I can remove it fairly easily by using disconnects on my wires. I have a hatch, so whenever I need the space I can get it out in 20 seconds.

u/sheffy55 · 1 pointr/CarAV

[This](BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit – A Car Amplifier Wiring Kit Helps You Make Connections and Brings Power To Your Radio, Subwoofers and Speakers might be the exact kit I used

u/Kingofthepartybox · 1 pointr/subwoofer

You need to run an 8 gauge wire kit with a fuse matching that of the amp directly from the battery. Separate from that you can run a little 18 gauge or 16 from the 12v socket. This is a single wire and only connects to the "remote" terminal. You wire it there so it turns on and off with the ignition

Sample kit

u/K33pYaHeadHigh · 1 pointr/CarAV

I found something pretty inexpensive like this? BOSS Audio KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit

u/upinthecloudz · 1 pointr/audiophile

Ahh, hum is quite different. That's likely grounding noise, and would be less common on higher end equipment, but you'd be surprised where this kind of issue rears it's ugly head :/ You can confirm this is the problem by turning up the volume on the amp when the source cables are not connected to another device. If it's grounding noise, you won't hear the hum unless the cables are plugged into a source that is also plugged into the wall.

You aren't too worried about extreme details of sound quality with this system, so a ground-isolation transformer is probably the best way to fix the hum and improve the experience of using the system.

Assuming your sub is not producing a distracting hum, the best place to install an isolation transformer is between the sub and the amp, as these are the devices most likely to be creating a ground loop. The cheapest option I found on a quick Amazon search:

u/SandFate · 1 pointr/CarAV

So, here are some common ways to remove "static" from your system.

  1. Upgrade your ground wires. (for your car battery, stereo, Alternator, and your amplifier negative connection) Make sure your amp's ground wire is connected to a CLEAN piece of metal on the body, no paint!

  2. Connect a ground wire to the negative side of the RCA plugs going into the amplifier.

  3. Double check how your RCA's are run through the car.
    If you have your main power wire for your amp running on the left side of the car, then you want to have your RCA's and Speaker wires running on the opposite side of the car.

  4. Use "Ground Loop Isolators" on every pair of RCA's going into the amplifier.

  5. Make sure your positive and negative connections to the amp is clean and solid, not loose or damaged looking.

  6. Make sure you have a nice tight connection on the battery and that the battery connections are tight. Also check both sides of the fuse on the amp's power wire near the battery. Make sure the connections are clean and inserted completely.

    Try those. If you still have a noise issue, then we can do a real diagnostic from there.
u/ThePookums · 1 pointr/buildapc

I had similar issues with a car audio setup, where I wasn't able to properly ground my amplifier due to it being a cheap Japanese car with no solid metal anywhere near the trunk. I bought an inline ground loop isolator and it really made a big difference. Something like this:

u/rambler429 · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's either noise on the power line which would need a power noise filter or its in the ground loop and needs a ground loop isolator.

Some amps pick up noise.

u/Carlobv · 1 pointr/buildapc

For anyone that's having a similar issue, I bought this:

and the problem is gone.

u/bpsuxballz · 1 pointr/audioengineering

a ground loop isolator should do the trick. i had a similar problem when i bought my HS5's. something cheap like this should do the trick.

u/Choppin_Broccoli_ · 1 pointr/mazda3

Basically it's a filter that goes on the power line going from the car into the head unit. In my case I cut the large yellow and black wires in the adapter harness and wired in the filter (this will at least involve crimping or soldering).

If you're not comfortable cutting wires you can always try traditional RCA ground loop isolators like this. I tried these as well and while I did notice a decrease in the noise it was still present. These don't require cutting, just plug the RCA plugs on the harness adapter into the isolators, then plug the RCA plugs on the isolators into the radio.

u/franco90 · 1 pointr/htcone

This or this may be worth a try.

u/ProtonTrev · 1 pointr/battlefield_4

> if you are on a laptop there isnt much you can do unless you want to spend a lot of money on an external DAC

A ground loop isolator should do the trick:

But it sounds like the OP's computer isn't grounded. Resolving that would eliminate the buzz sound.

u/nicelander · 1 pointr/microbrute

It might be ground loop feedback. You can get a special cable to remedy that.

Not sure if this is the problem but it might be.

u/style26062 · 1 pointr/amateurradio

I had issues with a hum on the audio out of my Kenwood TS-940 into my PC. Turned out to be a ground loop issue. I bought an audio isolation transformer and that fixed it.

Something Similar to this.

u/TSGS · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Get one of these:
Ground Loop Isolator

Ugly, but it works. I use it all the time in my '06 Sienna.

u/xitech · 1 pointr/razer

Something like this might help. Some other fixes are cleaning your contacts, using shorter wires, keeping audio wires away from other wires, getting away from RF sources, etc.

Feedback is a pain to troubleshoot. The product I posted may or may not work. Good luck.

EDIT: note that the one I linked has reversed plug genders for what you'd want on your pc, but there are others around for around the same price so you don't have to stack a bunch of adapters on it.

u/aneren · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

I had the same problem with static in the car. I bought this ground loop noise isolator for $9 on Amazon and it fixed the problem for me. It might be worth a shot.

u/Zaii · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

If you get noise while using the 3.5mm cable in your car while charging your phone i would invest in a ground loop isolator

this fixed my problem

u/castillar · 1 pointr/Volvo

The static noise might be due to poor isolation between the power and audio lines in the Bluetooth unit--I had the same issue with mine. The solution was to buy a grounding unit like this one that sits inline on the audio cable. Worked like a champ, and the cable on it is long enough that I can put the whole thing out of sight.

u/ChrisRK · 1 pointr/CarAV

A friend of mine talked to me about noise filters today. I honestly don't know if it works for a microphone but if you are willing to sacrifice a few dollars for a hopefully working fix then this little thing might help removing the noise from the microphone.

A shop that installs audio professionally will probably know more about electrical noise than a regular auto shop or mechanic by the way so if the shop who installed your radio doesn't know see if you can find a car audio shop in your area and ask them.

u/talones · 1 pointr/iphone

Are you using a noise isolator in your car? My iPhone 6s sounds perfect over Bluetooth since I added this...

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others

u/PieRhett · 1 pointr/vinyl

I'm getting a lot of static coming from my speakers. Too much to enjoy any music.

It's only happening when my preamp (Music Hall Mini) is plugged in (and turned on).

I'm using a U-Turn Orbit Plus as my record player.

Does anyone have any suggestion for how to eliminate the static?

I tried plugging in an Aux>RCA cable in to a ground loop isolator that I have, but the only thing it did was reduce the gain/maximum volume level. It did not help reduce the static.

The basic setup I'm working with is Turntable>RCA/RCA>Preamp>RCA/RCA>Speakers

I have no idea what I'm doing so any suggestions would be much appreciated - thanks!!

u/PabloEdvardo · 1 pointr/techsupport

Use it inbetween the ipod and the adapter.

Here's another one that might make more sense.

u/AchillePomeroy · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yeah. You'll want to get one of these cables, and go from your headphone port to either channel 5/6 or channel 7/8. Red goes in Right, black in left.
You will also probably need a ground loop isolater. Something like this one. Otherwise you may hear some static over the wires.

u/glenbot · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

I don’t know much about console because I’m mostly a PC gamer but I would try the following things:

  1. Get a high quality HDMI cable or just a different one and see if you still have issues.

  2. Use the headphone jack on the console and split the audio — one to your PC and one to your headphones. If you use this method you might need a DAC to amplify the signal before the split. I’ve also found the line splitter sometimes cause noise so you can get a ground loop eliminator.

    I would have suggested you switch from on board sound or update your sound drivers but your on a console.

    Here’s the splitters, cables, and ground loop eliminator I use:

    Splitter - KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black)

    3.5 to 3.5 - KabelDirekt Pro Series 10 feet ...

    GL Eliminator - PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop...

    This setup works for me because I use a sound blaster AE5 and the headphone jack already has an amp in it.

    You might try something like this:

    Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier

    So hook up from headphone console output to 4 channel stereo amp input. Then. One out cable to headphone and the other cable to LINE IN on PC and then separate the audio from elgato in OBS

  • good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I’m not a super expert but was able to self resolve most of my audio issues. In my case the skipping was because my PC built in audio sucked and once I switched to a sound blast AE-5 my issues started to disappear. I know that’s not possible on console :/
u/GaussCaptain · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

Before I found the UHQ Upscaler (which solved the problem for me) I ordered this [ground loop isolator] ( from amazon for about $10. It fixed all that background noise as well.

u/thayerpdx · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Sometimes you can clean that up with a magnet around the aux plug, but your best bet is a ground loop isolator.

u/GloriousPudding · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Whine is caused by the unfiltered impulse charger .. You need something based on a voltage regulator, these are rare (usually cheap chinese chargers) but it's easy to build one yourself. Docking station won't solve your problems if it's still using impulse charger (most likely). Alternatively you could use DC/DC converter ie. AimTec AM3N-0505S

Edit: just found dedicated car ground loop isolators: worth a try if you don't mind this hanging from your AUX port ;)

u/sudo999 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Yeah, my transmitter will tune between stations, trouble is the radio won't. I live in a dense suburban area and the bands are crowded.

a tip to get rid of the whine or at least reduce it is to buy a ground loop isolator. they're about $10 (linked one is about $11, I linked it because it's the one I own, you might be able to find cheaper).

u/GPasswatch · 1 pointr/DadsGaming

Sorry, it's a ground loop isolator. It's actually a piece of hardware to minimize buzz, etc. It's actually primarily for radios, ipods, etc. You put it in the line for your headset, audio recording/capture device to minimize/remove unwanted buzz, etc.

Here's the one I got:

u/kryptoniterazor · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Sounds like a ground loop. Very common when you have 2 devices taking output from the same place and sending input to the same place. What happens is a literal loop is formed by the continuous circuit and acts as an antenna to pick up EM static. You may find that you can fix it by only using one input at a time or switching one of your devices to a different power supply (e.g. if you're using USB power on the Xenyx, try using a DC plug instead). Failing that, you can use a ground loop isolator to tamp down the noise.

u/advocat3 · 1 pointr/Miata
u/pnknp · 1 pointr/headphones

Something like this?


Would I plug this in before the Y-Adapter then the Y-adapter into the ports? Or would I plug this into one of the ends from the Y-Adapter?

Do you know why it's happening with my microphone? Is this a common issue with them?


u/gtbsbr · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ground loop.With so many variables its hard to pin down.Make sure all components have a common ground.Try a seperate circuit.Do you have a cable box plugged into same outlet as the laptop If you unplug cable from cablebox,if the noise disapears it is the cable box causing problem.One of these would eliminate the noise,but wont fix the underlying problem.

u/havetolovemusic · 1 pointr/Android

I've read some comments that there is often a 'humming' noise, and many people recommend getting a ground loop isolator. This may not be with this specific device either. Can you comment on this? Thanks!

u/shoWt1mE · 1 pointr/headphones

I might've already found one which I would've tried if it came to it.

Basically repeating this.

But please let me know if it works for you! :)

u/unamusedpenguin · 1 pointr/applehelp

Shit I forgot to give an update. Update: I ordered this one off of amazon and it works perfectly, I had my concerns because it was only 10 bucks, but it works. Crystal clear music. Now let's just see how far it's going to last.

u/TheStealth · 1 pointr/BMW

So I have been running into something similar with my E46. I found that when my iPhone isn't plugged in to power, it works fine. But when I have my phone plugged in it will work, then it will fail switching back to radio after sometime and act as if the AUX doesn't exist when trying to select the mode (just goes between Radio and CD).

I found this online, again, not your car but could be of assistance BMW CCA, basically what I believe I am experiencing is a Ground Loop fault. I will be ordering this part Ground Loop Noise Isolator once I finish testing with the phone plugged in and then unplugged replicating the issue to be sure. But after searching many different forums, finding the same symptoms pointing to this same issue, I am really thinking this is the issue I am having, I will test again with the device before installing it... I just don't know how I am going to hide that bulky thing in the dash.

I hope that helps! Post back with any findings!

u/APhamX · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well, that fixed it.. Although I don't want to run this giant extension cable, so maybe get something like this ?

u/backlumchaam · 1 pointr/headphones

To fix a ground loop, you can do it the hard way by actually fixing the ground (at the cigarette lighter socket most likely, but car audio guys might have better insight) or the easy way with a ground loop isolator.

Unfortunately, your issue sounds more severe. The ground loops in cars I've heard tend to be a high, mechanical sounding noise floor/hiss with maybe a high pitched whine. Not a whole channel cutting out.

In a car, I'd suspect corrosion on the aux cable connectors (anywhere between the radio and the device). I'd spray some Dexoit around, maybe change out the cable.

But I'm not a car audio guy, so you might find someone that knows the specific issues in that realm better.

u/Lurkingnerd · 1 pointr/headphones

as /u/pocketspoon has mentioned this subreddit is more headphone equipment.

However what you may want to look into a filter for your modmic. You could pick up something like an audio interface or a mixer to help assist with controlling gain and reducing electronic feed back but that can be fairly expensive.

I would a try a ground filter like this first.

u/maz-o · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Sounds like a grounding problem. It picks up noise from the car electronics.

Usually it happens when you plug in a charger to your phone/ipod at the same time as the AUX. Did you do that?

Try this cheap fix, "Ground Loop Isolator".

Goes between your aux input and your phone/ipod/etc.

u/jakgal04 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You can actually pick up a ground loop isolator and just tuck it away under the dash or something. I have one on my car and it works great. Heres one from Amazon for $9 with Prime.

u/C0mpass · 1 pointr/techsupport

More than likely you are having a ground loop problem. This happens a lot in car stereos also. A simple isolator would solve the problem. Due to your headphones not having a dedicated power supply there is no ground loop, while your speakers do have a dedicated power source, thus forming a ground loop.

I personally have this isolator in my car and it works great by removing all of the "static and hissing" noise.

u/Mixtapz · 1 pointr/Twitch

Same issue. Just bought 2 of these off Amazon.

One for my stream port one for my AUX port. Audio is crystal clear.

u/tehkhop · 1 pointr/headphones

Just bought one. Short answer: it works. Long answer: It works really well. I have my mic jack plugged directly into my computer and my headphone jack plugged into my DAC. No buzz. In-fact I'd say the audio is a tiny bit cleaner in general. Buy it:

u/_kemot · 1 pointr/techsupport

amazon? ebay?

link link

I'm not sure this will solve it 100% but it's worth a try. If not return it or go to a shop near you and ask for this and if its possible to test it out and return it.

u/mrbubbles916 · 1 pointr/flying
u/rextos · 1 pointr/audiophile

happy to say it fixed my issue :D thank you very much...though I am going to return this and buy one from amazon because this filter + 2 trs adapters cost 30 bucks (each adapter was 7$)

i can get this from amazon for 8 bucks and not even need any adapters cus it has 3.5mm female which i can put my dual 1/4 to 3.5mm in :)

should this also work?

u/Parax0 · 1 pointr/letsplay

That's what I'm asking here for :P I just bought this thing and it didn't help, so I'm a little hesitant to immediately spend money on another thing that might not work. That's why I want to hear what other peoples' experiences have been with 3DS recording.

edit: I'm gonna add some extra info to the OP.

u/dodoburd · 1 pointr/Android

Yeah it should.

One problem I have in my car is that if the phone is charging and playing music through the headphones at the same time, there is a little humming noise that increases with revs of the engine. If you get this issue, you'll need a Ground Loop Isolator.

u/harmburger · 1 pointr/Miata

There's a product called a ground loop isolator, I use it in my Miata(NC) that has a custom-made aux-in with the stock headunit. I didn't install it without using the ground loop isolator, but I head conflicting reports of some people getting it, some not. I purchased one and installed it at the same time. It's hidden in the dash, so it's still only a 3.5mm cable coming out of the glovebox. Works great, no interference issues. Here's the one I use:

u/physicalgoose · 1 pointr/synthesizers

Aww damn, I've also heard people have had a lot of success with these using the OP-1

They're small and don't require additional power but still kind of annoying to have to have an extra piece of equipment in the chain.

u/t3abagger · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

Sure thing! It's a "ground loop noise isolator" and the price has dropped!

u/manderso7 · 1 pointr/prius

I got a Ground Loop Noise Isolator from Amazon and it does the trick.

u/Anarchaotic · 1 pointr/apple

Heads up I have this thing. You'll need a grounding cable like this -

Otherwise you're just going to hear a really annoying hissing noise. Also your sound quality is going to be a lot less dynamic than an aux cable. It's perfect for calls (volume needs to be turned up) but I never use it for listening to music.

u/LtRoyalShrimp · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

For anyone in the US - I have about 3 of these and work really well!

Amazon US -

u/djellicon · 1 pointr/OPZuser

To deal with the noise I use a ground loop isolator on both OP devices when recording to DAW, removes most of the noise, I bought this one (out of stock now) but I'm sure others will work just as well;


u/-RicFlair · 1 pointr/audiophile

It means you likely have multiple grounds in your system so you need to buy an isolator or two depending on your setup to remove all but one ground

I plug this into my computer to help my hum

u/deniroit · 1 pointr/audiophile

nope, that didnt help either :(. What do you think about an externally connected USB sound card ?. Would that canel the interference from the AC adapter?
Or how about a RCA filter ? like this one

u/DirkDiglier · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

Isolate the problem like Torturedpath suggest or circumvent. Here's a cheap-o DI box that will isolate your signal paths if the problem is in fact electrical and not mechanical.
e* - that particular model has RCA outputs, but you get the idea.

u/Rasalom · 1 pointr/techsupport

You said it in your original post: "you may lose a little freq range." Yes, I did notice this. The ground loop isolator "solves" signal distortions by simply cutting off the highs and lows of a signal. It muffles the sound so you won't hear the chittering electric signal, but you won't hear a true signal, either. Bad solution!

And dear god, don't go to Best Buy. Go buy one off Amazon so you can return it after puking at how tinny it makes music sound. Here are some more honest reviews of these products.

u/needs_help_badly · 1 pointr/ipod

It's from the grounding. Something like this in line from your iPod to headphones should get rid of that.

u/shadybill · 1 pointr/MINI

It's most likely a ground loop. One of these or similar should fix the issue.

u/rougetoxicity · 1 pointr/CarAV

Something like this 4Ga Would be more than enough. I bet you could get away with 8Ga too.

u/NishkaMishka · 1 pointr/CarAV

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

u/mikesmith0890 · 1 pointr/CarAV

speaker adapter rings $12 pair x2

speaker wiring adapters pair $6 x2

radio harness with amp bypass $35

JBL P660c 6.5" component set for font doors $130

rockford punch coaxial for rear fill $60

knu konceptz 4awg amp kit $35
usually i wouldn't recommend copper clad aluminum but in your case it'll be fine

dash kit $40

sony headunit $110
several options for this, but this is a decent unit.

precision power sub amp $110

soundqubed hds210 10" sub dual 4ohm $105

belva .77cuft sealed 10" prefab enclosure $37

I am over budget here, but this was quick and dirty. there are a couple areas to save money. biggest being buying a sub and amp use on craigslist. if that is possible and gets you under budget, id recommend just about everything else as is.

u/Dchandler50 · 1 pointr/CarAV

My vote for wires:

KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit

I've ordered this kit about 4 times and it's never failed to satisfy.

u/massacreman3000 · 1 pointr/CarAV

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

u/AMQ1280 · 1 pointr/CarAV

No these are 6 1/2" component speakers. Im not really sure on the price range. Im new to car audio so I dont know what they typically cost. I would prefer to keep it under $150 if possible.

Also, I picked up a KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit for my sub amp. Will I need another one of these to install the speaker amp?

u/Gamersteve · 1 pointr/CarAV

This one? I can go ahead and order it today. I just worry it wont have everything, or be compatible with my stereo unit since it's a cheap Dual Brand stereo. I've linked all the stuff I'm using in the original post.

u/TenPythons · 1 pointr/CarAV

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp?

is this a good sub for the amp?

these wires?

And is this box good? Single 12"

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

u/kultureisrandy · 1 pointr/CarAV


Obsidian Audio Subs


I'm not the best on amps but for a budget like that, this should be good enough. The best thing for a box is either to build it yourself because you won't get the sound you want from a prefab. Try to find someone in the area (Car shop, Car Audio place, Audio place) that can make you a box.

u/eim1213 · 1 pointr/CarAV

So I've decided to go with your recommendations of the E12 and the Fosgate R500X1D. I was wondering if I could save a few dollars on the wiring kit though, as it seems a bit pricey. I found a Belva kit here that's half the price. I've heard bad things about their amps+subs but this wiring kit has good reviews.

I also found this kit by KnuKonceptz that's similarly priced to the Belva kit. Does the kit you linked include something that makes it worth twice as much?

Also, would you be so kind as to recommend a good Line Out Converter?

EDIT: I see that the R500X1D has speaker level inputs. Does that mean I don't need to get a LOC? Do you have any input, /u/dangercdv ?

u/Ken_Mcnutt · 1 pointr/CarAV

Alright, this looks good? Also, Will the speakers have all the necessary harnesses to properly connect?

u/xblacklabel91 · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's no where near 1000w rms, but I second the 4 awg as a minimum.

This kit be perfect for your needs. Knu has true gauge wire (if not oversized) and their prices are great.

u/BumpinSpeaks · 1 pointr/CarAV

Just to clearly.. bridging is just connecting two outputs into one input? And yes, here's the box amp [kit] (

u/vanquish421 · 1 pointr/CarAV

I think I'm going to go with the P3D4-12 you linked me to and this box, and either this amp or this amp (which would you recommend?) with this wiring. My question is, is there a bass control knob that pairs specifically with the amp? Also, would you recommend running it at 2 ohms or 4 ohms? This looks like a good sub-amp combo, but I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right before purchasing.

u/BigManBuddha · 1 pointr/CarAV

Thanks! I did a quick Google search and came across this kit, is this kit the same? Sorry, fairly new to the technical stuff.

u/Jeearr · 1 pointr/CarAV

So this is the build I'm thinking of...
AMP: Pioneer GM-D8601
SUB: Kicker L7 12"
WIRING: KnuKonceptz 4GA Kit
BOX: ACS sealed

Thoughts? What kind of LOC would you suggest? (OR is a LOC a LOC?)

u/therus · 1 pointr/CarAV

i did a bit of research last night, and i think ive found a suitable replacement. I dont really want to build my own box, so im going to buy a fully built one. heres what i found last night:

Sub Amp


Amp wiring kit

Is this stuff better/going to work? im thinking ill bridge the subs and then connect it to the monoblock. is that amp bridgable though? or does that not matter if i just bridge the subs? sorry for all of the questions but im just getting into all of this stuff

u/PM_Me_Halloween_Pics · 1 pointr/CarAV

OP, help out your future self and do this all at once. Replace your speakers, wire in your amplifier all in the same weekend. Make sure to use 4gauge for your power wire in case you want to add a sub in the future. Your budget is a little tight, don't ignore the cost of good quality cables (I just installed these this past weekend).

u/Connorb21 · 1 pointr/BuildaCarAVForMe

Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398

Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233

Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26

Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.

And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you

I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.

u/FeedUsMcFetus · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's true, I just picked this one up Knu Konceptz

u/xTHANATOPSISX · 1 pointr/CarAV

There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.

Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.

Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.

u/Dolfan058 · 1 pointr/CarAV

For the sub I'm running the Kicker DXA250.1 at 125w due to the sub being wired at 4 ohms, and my future plan is to pick up either the Rockford Fosgate Prime R400-4D or the JL JX400/4D for the door speakers. Chances are I'd realistically run under 500 watts with how I expect the door speakers to be configured (75w RMS x 4).

Naive question - I already purchased the KnuKonceptz Kolossus 8 gauge amp kit - should I just pick up a 4 or even 2 gauge power wire and a distribution block, or should I return that amp install kit and pick up the 4 or 2 gauge?

u/shard13 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more:

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: or if you just need power for the sub then

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses:

u/bradenlikestoreddit · 1 pointr/diyaudio

Thank you! So the wiring kit you posted is good to go if I switch to that? I'll look into the head unit. And, yea I think I really just need to power the subs. I plan to wire the other speakers just from the head unit.

So updated setup -
Wiring Kit -

Headunit either Pioneer or Alpine

Amp -

Same speakers and subs.

You think that's will provide a decent quality audio experience?

u/EzTargut · 0 pointsr/DIY

Step 1:
Buy dash kit and wiring kit

Step 2:
Buy your deck

Step 3:
Buy or borrow some stereo removal keys for the jeep.
It might not need them. My mazda used them to prevent having to take apart the dash... might do some research on this.

Step 4:
Buy compatible wiring harness.
I prefer to buy these from local car stereo stores as i once fucked up ther order on amazon.
Just go in and ask them for one for your rig.

Step 5:
Once you have your deck and wiring harness solder the wiring harness for your car and the wiring harness that came with the deck together. The colors of the wires should match each other. Most will say what they go to on the side of the wire or package/instructions.
If you don't have a soldering iron you can use crimps or wire nuts... i just prefer soldering cuz its fucking awesome.

ALSO you must connect the AMP ON wire to the harness and run it through your dash to the amp.

Step 6:
While your dash is apart/ old stereo is out, you should run the rca cables through the dash and plug them into the back of your deck. Naturally the other ends will go to wherever you place your amp.

Plug everything in the back into your new deck and re assemble the dash.

Step 7:
Disconnect the negative terminal until done.
Run the large cable that was in the amp kit through and opening in the firewall in your car. Usually there will be rubber seals with cables going through them already that you can poke your wire through.... Attach the fuse and connect it to the positive terminal.

Plug large wire into the + one your amp.

Now choose a spot near your amp that is bare metal and attach your ground wire to it with a screw or something. Plug it into the negative ground terminal on the amp.

Now connect your amp on wire.

plug in the speakers to the speakers spot on the amp.

step 8:
reconnect ground.

step :9
knock womens clothing off.

u/pkillian · 0 pointsr/MINI

Either your amp connections or you need a ground loop noise isolator if these issues are only occurring when you're playing music through the aux input.

u/freealitee · 0 pointsr/GooglePixel

Get a Bluetooth adapter for the aforementioned aux port.
This is one that supports aptx, works well, has pass through cig lighter cord with USB port built in so you don't need to worry about battery. Might want to get this as well, depending on how well your stereo is grounded. I experienced weird buzzing but my aux jack is soldered (by me) to my tape input, so I'm not surprised there was issues.

Anyway that's like $40 to turn your car stereo into fancy and not have to fuck with the aux cables again (which for me were always wearing out anyway.)

u/AxletheRed · 0 pointsr/Twitch

It must be the ground loop isolator I got. I am using audacity to record, and playing it back to test it out. Not streaming yet.
Before I installed ground loop isolator it was in stereo, and after I installed it is mono. This is what I am using:
I need a ground loop isolator. See this video if you want:

u/miniminimummum · 0 pointsr/PS4

Maybe try this? ground loop isolator

u/wwwatchamacallit · 0 pointsr/PS4

Product descriptionPackage included: 20 * cable clips (with 5 different size included) for cord with 3/ 5/ 7/ 9/ 13 mm inner diameter

Helps reduce EMI on AC power lines. Black plastic enclosed ferrite core for 5 mm AC power cords. **Great for cutting noise on USB, firewire, phone, power cord, coaxial, audio, video cables, etc.**This rectangle ferrite Bead can be widely used in a variety of Data cables, USB cable, telephone line, network line to **shield external electromagnetic interference.**Easy to install with double snap clips; Reduce electro-magnetic interference and improve signal integrity. Easy structure and convenient installation. Just clip it on and you will get clearer signal and faster data transmission.

u/CrashXCC · 0 pointsr/ottawa
u/zachthehobo · 0 pointsr/CarAV

This is gonna be the best decent setup you can buy.

  • Amp

  • [Wiring Kit] (

  • [Subs] (

    Which will still leave you with about $140 for a custom built box.

    There's a couple good things about this setup.The amp is made by Alpine. It will do rated power and will last awhile. And the subs are actually built somewhat well, considering the price.

    This setup will sound better and hit much lower than those terminators, as long as you get the right box for them. 4-5 ft^3 and tuned to 30 hz. There is a reason half your budget is going towards a proper enclosure. The box will make or break your whole system. There's many people online that will design a box for you, if you're willing to build it yourself. If not, a local shop may do it, but expect to be paying around 200 bucks.

u/METL_Master · 0 pointsr/xboxone

Put this in between the 3.5mm from your controller to the headset