Best car audio & video wiring harnesses according to redditors
We found 225 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video wiring harnesses. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 225 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video wiring harnesses. We ranked the 88 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.
After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.
Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:
Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?
A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)
Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?
A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).
Q: How do you control the volume?
A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.
Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?
A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.
Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?
A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.
Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?
A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.
Q: Can you make phone calls with it?
A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.
Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?
A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.
Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?
A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.
Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?
A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..
Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?
A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!
I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.
Breakdown of Parts:
Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305
TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.
Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.
EDIT #1: Formatting.
EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.
So, I have the 2019, but these speakers are compatible with anything that supports a 3.5" speaker on the dashboard.
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That said, the stock tweeters are shite. I got a pair of JBL CLUB 3020 to fill in some of the missing mid-high. It's like a night and day difference.
The stock speakers accepts a proprietary audio plug that's a white box with 4 cables going back into the dash. The new JBLs are just bare connectors because they are universal. I didn't want to cut the wires, so I found an adapter here.
It was very easy to install:
Took about 10 minutes each speaker.
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I intend to rip off the doors are replace those 6.5" speakers with 4 JBL CLUB 6520 speakers.
Even without an amp the better quality speaker makes a world of difference.
I will probably add an amp and a sub at some point, but that's down the road. I'll post again when I replace the door speakers and I'd be happy to assist if you are doing the same with a 2019.
If you aren't afraid of some wiring it's really not bad to replace a head unit and you can save yourself a bunch. If you want to have someone do it you can go to bestbuy or another store that does installs. Its a lot of wires so it looks intimidating but all you need is the head unit of your choice, the bezel or surround if you still have a factory unit and optional but I do recommend is the adapter kit to plug into the stock harness. Putting it together is as easy as matching colors and soldering or just using butt connectors. It is a fairly simple process and if you mess it up the worst that can happen is it just won't turn on.
You pick a single din head unit and these are the items you need. You can do a double din but if I remember right you need a special adapter that is a it harder to find and pricier. Or you need I think one of the Japanese tombstones.
This will surround the radio and give it a cradle so you don't have blank spaces.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BEYIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301353&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit+93&dpPl=1&dpID=41meO9lqHtL&ref=plSrch
This will plug directly into the stock plug and then you just connect the wires to the radio you pick out.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002BETW2/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483301254&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=miata+radio+install+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41byl99kQ8L&ref=plSrch
I have a 2009 Vibe, which is virtually the same as your Matrix. Apply e-brake, shift into N, then pull up on the dash bezel from the bottom, just below the hvac controls, to remove. Get the Scosche dash kit https://www.scosche.com/2009-toyota-matrix-pontiac-vibe and any double-DIN fits in there just fine. When screwing the radio in, push up on the radio and alignment will be better. You'll need a standard Toyota wiring harness to splice into the harness that comes with your new radio, then it's plug and play. If you have steering wheel controls, you'll also need a steering wheel interface.
Order everything from Crutchfield and they will include all those extra parts with your order. Here's a pic of my install: http://forums.genvibe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=45247#p513922
You probably should have considered this before buying the stereo.
The nice thing is, a '98 Corolla is one of the easier installs. It has a standard "single-DIN" (2" x 7") radio, and any aftermarket head unit will have existing holes on the sides of the deck to screw directly onto Toyota radio brackets.
If the new stereo you bought is "double-DIN" (i.e. about 4" tall instead of about 2" tall) it will not easily fit in your car. Sell or return it and get a single-DIN.
If you bought the stereo from a major stereo retailer like Crutchfield they would have included instructions and a jumper wiring harness that would have made this a no-brainer. If you don't have a jumper wiring harness you'll have to make one. The stereo comes with its male side of the harness; you'll need the correct female plug for your car to complete it. To put the two together, solder or butt-splice the matching wire colors. Do not attempt to cut and splice the car's own wires! For a normal stereo install there is no need.
Metra 70-7901 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BETW2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.
Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.
Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.
So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:
And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.
With the JBL + NAV you need something like the PAC RadioPro 4 https://www.amazon.com/PAC-RP4-2-TY11-Radiopro4-Ty11/dp/B01B63G6ES
I don't know what would cause that to pop up every few seconds but I've installed a couple of pioneer head units with a bypass module that allows video in motion. I'm guessing it would get rid of that message.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L6Z1WYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_naBDDbQ133A4Z
Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.
[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)
[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)
The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.
One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.
I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.
Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.
$5 would have saved you a massive amount of headache and potentially money. Did you leave enough length on the harness to reconnect it? If you still have it?
Chances are quite high you blew fuses when cut the factory harness. It’s also quite possible you aren’t on the right wire or your connections aren’t as good as you think. Having chopped the factory harness you may be looking at more in labor as far as correcting your issue goes because now who ever will be working on it isn’t just doing a normal install they will be doing a hardwired install.
You can get a chinese radio for $30 but if you plan to keep using your car for some time it would be better to go up one notch and put something like the Pioneer FH-X720BT, i know CDs are in extinction but for a little price difference you still have the option.
You need to get the mounting kit, and the wiring harness. Installing it is not that hard, if you can splice some wires you're set, the wires in the radio harness and in the adapter are color coded so you just need to match them.
I've replaced a couple NA Miata radios so I feel like I can comment. Whatever you do, buy the Metra wiring harness for your car. You splice it (using wire nuts) to the wiring coming out of your new head unit, and it plugs into your factory wiring connector. No cutting of your car's wires. It's the proper way to do it and you will be very thankful if you ever replace that radio again.
That out of the way, one thing to remember in a convertible is readability in direct sunlight. Most modern head units have LED displays that completely wash out in bright light. I have my eye on this mechless unit that has an LCD display: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07717WCVN
And finally - fitment. If you have a factory radio right now, chances are the size is not the standard "single DIN" or even standard "double DIN" because...I don't know. But if you buy the above mentioned unit, there will be a gaping hole below it and the size is odd. Moss Miata to the rescue! They sell a little cubby designed to properly fill the hole. It's stupid priced for a plastic box but it is a very specifically sized plastic box. Here's how it looks in my car below my weirdly mounted old head unit.
You should be able to mount your new head unit into the "rack" that your current radio is mounted to. It's fairly straightforward after you get things apart. That unit is lightweight too, so should be simpler to mount.
FINALLY - to get your old unit out you have to remove the center console and then the "tombstone" - which means you have to pop out your two eyeball vents. It's a harrowing thing on old plastic and there have been a few reports of broken trim. I've always been OK but I don't think I'd do it during really cold weather when the plastic is most brittle. To pop my vents I used a bit of paracord with a loop at the end. A bent piece of wire was used to fish the loop out of the opposite side of the vent, then a quick yank and out they pop. There are screws above the vents to remove the trim. You can look this all up online (miata.net).
Hope this helps.
P.S. if you have a power antenna, you likely will lose independent control of it. It will go up when you power up the radio, and go down when you turn it off.
Yes. I have a pioneer w4400nex in my 2018 wrx base model. Great headunit with wireless CarPlay. It’s relatively plug and play with a harness from autoharnesshouse. Here are all the links:
AutoHarnessHouse Aftermarket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GD8627K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Direct wire harness for Pioneer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GBDRVX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Maestro ADS-MSW Universal Analog Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4W10XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Jg22Db6PFF6R1
Need this to connect FM radio to new Headunit:
Aftermarket Radio Antenna Adapter by Vehicle Aerial Stereo Converter Cable, DIN (Motorola Type) to Antenna Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNL9QQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7l22DbVWFF1K2
Need this if you want to retain factory USB port:
Metra Electronics AX-SUBUSB Multicolored Subaru 2011 & Up 4-Pin USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JYTLW14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_do22DbN1SNNSH
This is the dash kit to make the headunit fit properly:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SU2031B/Scosche-SU2031B-Dash-Kit-Gloss-Black.html
Those are all the harnesses/wires you’ll need to make it plug and play. The USB adapter might not work if your car has 2 USB ports in the center console. This shouldn’t be a problem anyways since CarPlay is wireless. The USB ports will still charge your phone regardless. If you have the base wrx, it’ll be fine. On YouTube there are plenty of install vids if you ever feel confused.
Edit: the guy from autoharnesshouse (Brian) is also very friendly if you have any questions about the harness, just email him.
Kenwood KMM-BT315U.
Its a media receiver meaning it doesn't play CD's.
Amazon right now for $77.
Wiring Harness Metra 70-1761 $5
Dash Kit Scosche $12
$94 before taxes.
Watch This; if you're not comfortable doing that please get it professionally installed (shop around, $80 max for labor on an install like this).
You can find Pioneer BT receivers for less also, I just like the way Kenwood looks.
The dash kit I listed will only fit a single din radio, for double din you'll need the metra kit.
I upgraded to a Pioneer Nav unit in the fall and I believe that this USB Retention Harness Is what I have to retain the USB in the armrest. Unfortunately, Android Auto didn't work between the Pioneer unit and the S7 for some reason but the USB does work.
Side note: The OEM backup camera also works with using the Axxess AX-SUB28SWC but I recall the wiring was changed in the 2017 so it wasn't color for color as original wiring diagrams went.
Personally I'd spend a few more bucks and do this:
I just figure if you're pulling your stock head unit out you might as well have bluetooth and other modern functions in it.
Heck, you'll probably see a good change in sound just switching the speakers out. If they are the stock speakers in there they are cheap 16 year old cones. To make the speaker install a snap, just use these:
http://amzn.com/B001OAB6BW
What you want to look for is a single din head unit.
Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvMHybMT2RYV9
Now depending on what else was ripped out of the car you may need a new wiring harness
Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness for 1998-2005 Acura/Suzuki/Honda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_twMHybX5GZZK1
And a radio antenna adapter... I couldn't find this alone on Amazon. Here's a bundle with the wiring harness, antenna adapter and dash kit
HONDA ACCORD 1998 - 2002 DASH KIT + WIRE HARNESS + RADIO ANTENNA ADAPTER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBF71DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxMHyb1RKAN9K
Hope this helped out.. any single din head unit will work I just took the first one I saw to show you.
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Harness-1986-1997-speaker-connector/dp/B0003NFJKA
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Metra-Radio-Install-Kit-for-85-and-Up-Ford-Mercury-Jeep/21015883?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=299&adid=22222222227015208742&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=53852898191&wl4=aud-273067695102:pla-88029148631&wl5=9011349&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=111830355&wl11=online&wl12=21015883&wl13=&veh=sem
wire new radio wiring harness to the scochse one, plug and play
This. Mkv is fine on the nex. To play on motion you'll need a toggle switch or just buy a bypass for like 7 bucks.... they're all the same no reason to buy the "micro bypass" that's like 20+ bucks.... this is what I use but anything similar will work or you can build you own toggle... it's pretty simple too if you want to go that route... just ask if you care to go that route.
Alright so what you do, is buy [this.] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8) What this allows you do to is connect your aftermarket headunit to the factory system without damaging factory wiring. It will connect to your aftermarket radio harness via soldering (perfer) or butt connectors then will just plug right into factory plug. You will have some wires left over on the Metra harness like remote turn on, unless you have a aftermarket amp, the power atenna wire, and sometimes the dimmer wire. So don't worry about that.
There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.
Radio Antenna harness
Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)
USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)
Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.
I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).
You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.
I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.
Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.
Picture of it installed:
http://i.imgur.com/f4fUSR2.jpg
you want these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT3NZK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GNHZHK2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Optional, if you are buying the 4100NEX)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4PJC9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Optional, if you want steering wheel controls to work)
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-HD11-2009-Up-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B003E3MLB6/ (Optional, if you want to listen to the radio)
I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.
Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.
Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.
Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.
Buy a single DIN aftermarket radio of your liking.
Buy a single DIN faceplate adapter like this.
Buy a wire harness that will plug into the factory radio connector like this. This will prevent you from hacking the factory wiring to connect it to the aftermarket radio harness.
It may require you to buy this adapter for the factory attenna connect into the aftermarket radio.
Install is pretty easy, search google for walkthroughs if you get stuck.
Does your car have steering wheel controls? If so, you'll lose that feature, there's ways to make it work but they're pricey.
For general functionality of the head unit you just need Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is what i use in my 2014 brz and the metra usb adapter. I had the pac from a prewired harness from crutchfield but it was annoying.
You need a microbypass.
afaik, this will do the trick for you
Really easy to install, just a few taps to make at the back of the headunit, and done.
99-9011
RP4-VW11
EU-56
these will probably be your best bet man in my honest opinion, those VW signal sensing systems can be a nightmare. I'd rather not chance it on an off brand interface harness and various other parts.
No offence but if you don't understand the wiring diagram maybe you should get someone to do it for you?
If you're determined to do it yourself maybe you just need a wiring harness kit like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-NN03B-Harness-1995-07-Standard/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494895498&sr=8-2&keywords=nissan+350z+wiring+harness
It all depends on your setup. I don't know what plugs Joying comes with and whether or not you have a bose system in your car etc.
Metra 70-7303 (wiring harness)
Metra 40-KI11 (AM/FM radio adapter)
Axxess ASWC-1 (steering wheel control)
Yes it will work.
You will need this harness:
https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Subaru-Headunit-Harness-Steering/dp/B01D9K3L44
and this adapter box:
https://www.amazon.com/Axxess-ASWC-1-Universal-Steering-Interface/dp/B00B4PJC9K/
If you get the Metra 70-7552 wiring harness (what crutchfield.com recommends), you won't have the steering wheel control wires and you'd have to tap in to your factory wires.
It depends on the car. Most cars made before 2015 or so use a standard Double Din Slot radio (With Double Din being the size of the radio) while cars older than 2000's might have a single din slot radio. All of these radio's are interchangeable and can be swapped out (Sometimes with an adapter kit). The slightly trickier part if you want to do this yourself is wiring up a harness that connects your cars electrical system (speakers/power/USB/FM radio) to the radio you want to install. You will need to find an electrical manual or a guide online to tell you which wires are for what and connect them to the corresponding wire on the new radio.
Source: Replaced the shitty radio in my old Subaru
The tires can only be slightly different in width and depth, not actual rim size. For example, you can't put a tire that's 185/55/14 on a 185/55/15 wheel. You can slightly vary the width and depth by putting say a 195/55/14 on a 185/45/14 wheel. Obviously not recommended though.
Next as far as your radio goes, any radio will fit. You just need the correct installation kit. Want a 7 inch touchscreen navigation unit? Buy a double din installation kit and radio wiring harness. If you want your standard run of the mill small aftermarket stereo, get a single din kit. Amazon is your friend.
Metra 70-1858 Radio Wiring Harness For GM 88-05 Harness https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEX8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3-LOub00TY0AV
Metra 99-4544 Dash Kit For GM Multikitwith Eq Opt 82-04 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000281X60/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DaMOub0ETARQM
Edit: looks like the 92 century only has a single din hole. So scratch the double din idea.
I just replaced mine in my 06 without the Bose system. The removal and reinstallation is pretty straight forward. I do want to go back with some sound deadening material or a foam baffel to see if there is any better bass response.
I went with these "Rockford R168X2 Prime 6 x 8 Inches Full Range Coaxial Speaker, Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_bCSfTbRya1zVA "
I also used these so I wouldn't have to cut the stock harness
" Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OAB6BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_HhPhN5qVTdyWy "
You will need to crimp on new connectors for the speakers as the POS and neg are on the wrong sides.
Over all the speakers are on par with stock imo. They are a 50 rms speaker and the stock ones are 25 rms.
I'm sorry I worded the question wrong, could I get a GM interface without Onstar? Like would everything else work fine except Onstar? I don't really need it. Say, something like this or this?
I don’t know about this specific situation but I’m putting in a new stereo in my 2006. (No JBL)All my research suggests you need something like this to keep the steering wheel controls.
This also works with the JBL stuff. I think the JBL amp is digital so most stereos need something to change the signal from analog.
I’m not an expert but maybe that helps.
https://www.amazon.com/PAC-RP4-2-TY11-Radiopro4-Ty11/dp/B01B63G6ES
HU: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51eUfp1qb2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Bypass: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Automatic-Interface-AVH-4100NEX-AVH-4200NEX/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51x1VlAngzL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Metra Electronics 70-5520 Wiring Harness for Select 2003-Up Ford Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WTF34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_q7U3DbGQ7M4ZV
im using this one.
Hey! If you have a cassette player, you're gonna need an adapter which can be found here if not you dont need this! Make sure the measurements of the radio match up, it should fit most single/double din radios.
After that make sure to buy a wiring harness
And then get your radio!
Also this would help a bunch, be sure you have a 8mm socket ready.
Use something like this or you could do a switch going from parking brake to ground and you'll just have to flip it a couple times to watch video.
Mine was a Bose as well. I'd highly encourage you to do the swap - modern radio features are pretty neat, and you can even put in something like this if you're feeling adventurous.
According to miata.net's audio page, the head units are all pretty similar - it seems the biggest difference is determining if you need to buy either this wiring harness or this one.
Both the head unit and the harness come with instructions on which wire carries which signal, so soldering them is simply connecting A to A. Honestly, the most difficult part of the swap I found was installing the mounting sleeve in my console - the unfinished metal edges dealt me more than a few cuts due to my stubborn refusal to protect my hands.
I spent a bit of time kicking myself for not photodocumenting the head unit installation, but ah well. There's no shortage of people willing to advise on the subject.
I have had amazing luck with the Sony XAV-AX100. It is a very stable head unit running AA and sounds way better than the stock stereo. It also looks like it could be stock as opposed to the obnoxious ones that have a million green blinky lights. It doesn't support wireless but you can retain steering wheel controls and center console USB, just by using this custom wiring harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9K3L44/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used this thread for install questions.
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2815667
I had the same problem with a pioneer unit and the toyota harness - the ebrake signal isn't compatible. I ended up getting a $10 override chip from amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/) and putting that inline.
You can, in theory, hack something up with a relay or by running it to other signals under the dash (check the manuals and google). I didn't feel like pulling my dash apart more so I was happy to shim it out with the chip.
I got all my harnesses from David at ae64.com. I emailed him with the details of what I was planning to do and he responded with everything I needed. It was nice to get them all from one place.
I paired his harnesses with a Maestro RR to retain the backup cam and steering wheel controls.
Remember, if you email David, he will give you a list customized to your application, but here is what I used:
Ordered from ae64.com
Ordered from Amazon:
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ)
Ordered from eBay:
Hope this helps
It's super simple actually. I would recommend looking at a video or two and see how its done. here the stuff I used for mine if you're interested in at least looking it up. It's nice to be able to do it yourself and save on crazy install fees.
Pioneer AVH-2300NEX Multimedia DVD Receiver
Metra 70-1730 Receiver Wiring Harness
Metra 40-HD10 Antenna Adapter
iDatalink Maestro ADS-MSW Steering Wheel Control Adapter
APPS2Car Parking Brake Bypass
Duttek USB 3.0 Flush Mount Cable
Sorry about that, I just picked something on amazon that resembled the stuff I used. This is the exact listing for the tape I used, it's just in a box so you can't really see it. It didn't say anywhere on the box about heating it to set it. And I wanted to use a crimping heat shrink, but the adapter looks like This if you see, only one side has wires exposed, the other side is all plugged into this adapter that I plug into the car (and where the original radio was plugged in to). I could not slip the crimping thing down onto it because the other side was already soldered on.
That plug is for USB, you can use this adapter to plug that into your new head unit's USB port.
The rearview camera is part of the 28-pin adapter, pins 11-13 (I think), check out the thread here. You can use this 28-pin adapter which includes the 12v to 6v converter to plug in the rear-view camera to an aftermarket head unit instead of buying the add-on unit.
Scosche makes a wiring harness adapter.
Here's a link to Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007KPS0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525792990&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=scosche+xterra+radio+wiring+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=41rDjw%2BkK2L&ref=plSrch
I don't have a V, rather a Gen3 2013. I had a JVC KWAV61BT put in. Purchased on Amazon for $200 a year ago. Also got from Amazon: Steering Wheel Control Wire, Dash Kit, and Wiring Harness. Had a local shop install it for $100. I probably could have done it myself, but wanted it to look professional. Total cost of the stereo and parts was $275. Looks like Amazon has the DDX-372 for under $300.
Are you using some kind of interface box? For example when I installed the XAV-AX100 into my car I needed one of these. If you are using a box like this, maybe it needs a firmware update or is defective?
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-8113-Amplifier-Integration-2000-2004/dp/B0007WRQQ2/ref=asc_df_B0007WRQQ2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312152566480&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=452740500094546377&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017563&hvtargid=pla-493281881983&psc=1
Here is the harness adapter I used on my '05. Should work on your '03.
I also got this deck. I don't really need a CD player, or anything other than AM/FM, and an aux-in. I've been very pleased with it.
5 ch amp
Front Speakers
Subwoofer
Head Unit
Sub Box
HU Interface
Antenna adapter
Dash Kit
Amp install kit
This assumes you don't have bose or onstar, and if any of this is confusing I'd give Sonic Electronix or Crutchfield a call to make sure you get the right stuff for your head unit. I would bridge channels 1-4 into just your front speakers, leave the rear stock and powered by the hu for now.
The above is ~500. The next dollars I would spend would be for this
Subwoofer box is 10 inches high 12 inches deep so check for clearance
I'm really only looking for the Bluetooth/AUX connections. Will this work for that? Or is there a better solution?
A wiring harnesss like this? I didn't realize you had to wire each connection up to an after market stereo. Meh, shouldn't be that bad.
Am I better off just getting something like this?
This harness is what allows integration with the system. You can also use this harness instead, but this one can be a little weird. If you follow all the instructions included with them, you shouldn't have an issue. Most people that have issues with these didn't allow it to initialize. With these data interfaces, once you plug everything into the vehicle you have to turn the key on and let it initialize for like 30 seconds or so before you turn the key off. If you don't it will work intermittently.
Yes. It's android autos google maps based off your phone. They make google maps and spotify driver safe. But still both work fine for the basics. I come from the same background as you and I love this device. Play around with the MHL stuff too. And absolutely 100% get this
I installed this in my 01 Corolla a couple weeks ago. It fits in the stock mounting bracket and has AUX, BT and USB. All you will need to install it is this wiring harness, a set of crimp caps and a wire stripper/crimp tool.
The hardest part is wiring the new head unit to the wiring harness. The actual installation should take 10 minutes.
I have this for my '03 Celica GTS with the JBL kit. It looks like a direct fit for yours too.
I never tried to play music with an SD card. I do have a bypass installed. I know with the 4200 there is a different bypass module that you need. Did you make sure you got the right one?
Edit. This is the one I have MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer AVH-4100NEX AVH-4200NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6IlgAbHPR7ZVZ
Edit : nevermind didn't see that you already linked it lol
Which cables have you tried? Did you use any on the list on the pioneer website? Have you tried enabling USB debugging like some forums say?
http://priuschat.com/threads/stealth-install-an-aftermarket-stereo-in-prius.38700/
This provides all the info needed for the most part. I ordered the stereo from Crutchfield and it came with the OEM to aftermarket wiring harness needed, but I also needed to buy an additional harness to avoid the dreaded red triangle resulting from some installs. There is a way to fix this with a resistor but the harness seems to be more reliable.
Stereo: JVC KD-R950BT
Wiring Harnesses: Metra 70-1761:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398123517&sr=8-1&keywords=Metra+70-1761
Best Kits BHO1761 OEM Radio Wire Harness:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088TNGRE/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1
OK. So here is where I am. I have decided to first work on installing an aftermarket DOUBLE-DIN head unit with Bluetooth wireless speakerphone, Aux-in, etc. (and I will do the amp + subwoofer in the next phase).
So far I've purchased:
Now (I believe) the only thing left for me to purchase is a double-din aftermarket head unit. Do you happen to know of any that would be compatible with this setup? Or am I pretty much able to use any head unit I want because I've installed a dash kit?
Thank you so, so, so much. I can't tell you how much your help means.
Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.
> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.
>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.
>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.
>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:
> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
> Amp kit. ~ $33
>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.
and
>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.
>Here is some that fit your truck;
>Head Unit
>Door SPeakers
>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.
>Total of about $220.
I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?
Kit
Harness
Steering wheel controls, if you want it.
2 screws below radio, and one behind the hazard (whole piece between vents comes out) then the whole panel comes off.
Will I need to do the wiring myself? I was under the impression the harness would connect the systems without anything like that.
MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer Model AVH-4100NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lvQCxbNCTX540
To my knowledge, most of them are almost the same length so they can mount with the dash kit. And since you're on crutchfield, it says it comes with the installation gear which I hope is everything. If not, the harness is this if you don't have Bose, and the dash kit. It's pretty simple to wire the harness to the existing wires. They're all color coded and some you won't need.
https://www.amazon.com/20-pin-Subaru-Headunit-Harness-Steering/dp/B01D9K3L44
This is what I used to be able to use all features regardless if I’m parked or not.
Bypass Module
This worked for me.
May not be compatible with your unit so do some research
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65
https://www.amazon.com/ACOUSTIK-CP-650-Bluetooth-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B0792R4D4N/
$169 gets you the cheapest CarPlay I can find. $252 gets you into JVC and Pioneer brands.
2000 model year is before they did retained accessory power, OnStar and other stuff, so your wiring harness is dead simple and cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1858-Radio-Wiring-Harness/dp/B0002BEX8W/ - $6.48 (never cut the factory harness. Always wire the aftermarket radio's harness to a connector that works with the factory.)
and the dash kit to fit either into the space - $15.39
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-99-4644-Multi-Kit-Shelf-Black/dp/B0007WTFAM/
Add about an hour in the driveway (30 to wire, 30 to install, going slow) and this problem goes away. It's pretty easy. Total:
The other way to solve this is with a hard-wired FM transmitter, that plugs the FM signal between your antenna and the radio. https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ - $26.95 and the same 30 minutes in the driveway installing, and you'd have aux-in back. They do make a bluetooth version of this, but some people say the bluetooth one doesn't sound very good, and adds pairing issues.
I've installed CarPlay about 10 times (I keep putting different ones in my car, I've had Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer primarily. A Pioneer with wireless CarPlay is going in next.) There's no magic to it, and it does make the experience a lot better, for me.
Then for the receiver:
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-X4800BT-In-Dash-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01463VLLI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
and finally the harness:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
All set?
EDIT: You also mentioned deadening. What would you recommend?
Also at the back of my car under the rear window is two speaker panels. I imagine those are the subs?
I've already wired the head unit to the amp using the Metra amp interface harness. (Metra 70-8113 Amplifier Integration Harness for Select 2000-2004 Toyota Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WRQQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hQJRyb2N0J5NS). I'm not too sure I wanna replace the amp, but if it comes down to it I will, it's just the rear deck speakers are not working too well. And yeah, that's what I've been able to dig up. Would I have to get a harness when I get the speaker?
So basically the headunit came with an adapter and I had to buy the metra adapter specific to the car. I had to solder these two together. The wires are the same color so it’s very easy. Some people splice the wires right on the car, but I didn’t want to modify anything.
adapter I purchased
House?
Car- 2017 Toyota 86
HU - https://www.pioneer.com.au/shop/car/avh-zl5150bt/
Harness- Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BEQJ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Wow small world...what subs do you have in it? I'm putting 1 sundown sa12 in. Your subs will give me indication of how bad my rattle might be.
Random questions when you installed: Does our car have a stock amplifier?
What wiring harness did you use for your radio? https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-7303-Harness-Hyundai-Infinity/dp/B001JT02PO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499915423&sr=8-2&keywords=kia+forte+wiring+harness I bought this one but I'm unsure if it is the right one.
XSVI-9003Nav
Yes I got an adapter that allows me to use the center consoles USB port. Axxess AX-SUBUSB2 USB Retention... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJ4KVQ6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Is this the harness adapter you're referring to? Sorry I'm new to all of this (I paid bestbuy to have all of my stuff put in originally) so I have a couple more questions.
Will that mini amplifier power all 4 speakers? I only see a L and R so my assumption is that it'll only work for 2 speakers. Also, how do I power the amp? Is that what the remaining wires coming out of the adapter that aren't for the speakers are for? Lastly, is attaching the wires to the amp as easy as stripping the wire and twisting it around the pins? Thank you again for your help.
If you want it to be easy as possible, you can use one of these (and you'll need to pick up a maestro sw or rr):
https://www.amazon.com/AutoHarnessHouse-Aftermarket-Installation-compatible-2016-2019/dp/B07GD8627K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=autoharnesshouse+brz&qid=1573219865&sr=8-1
​
That covers the steering wheel controls and camera, antenna amp, and factory amp. You'll need to add a pin and wire on the harness (it's included) to power up the factory amp and door speakers. Also, ignore the instructions included on the two 5-pin connectors - just connect the two on the harness together if it's not shipped as such. If you want to try to keep costs down and make your own, you'll need to wire in a voltage converter for the camera power feed.
You'll also need the standard Toyota harness for the rest of the speakers. You can use one of AutoHarnessHouse direct connect Pioneer ones, or just make your own a little cheaper. I believe this is the part, but please double check - I don't have the part number handy right now (You can actually get these at Best Buy, it's in their computer system):
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=344R0OVLJ7ACT&keywords=metra+toyota+harness&qid=1573220037&sprefix=metra+toyo%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1
​
For the 4500, I also recommend either wiring up their GPS antenna, or just using an adapter for the OEM one (I went this route just to keep things clean). This pack contains the correct adapter (it's the one with the bright green end, maybe you can find it standalone cheaper):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
If you don't hook up the GPS antenna, the head unit will throw up an error message every time you start up a navigation app in AndroidAuto (it'll still work, it's just annoying).
Lastly, don't forget an antenna adapter and (optionally the OEM USB port adapter cable). I opted not to use the USB port since I have a high speed charger that uses a 12v socket. Same as above, please double check this to make sure it is the right one, but here's what the antenna adapter looks like:
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adaptor-Select/dp/B00JYHSDKO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=toyota+antenna+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00JYHSDKO&pd_rd_r=aae8b955-0220-497c-bcd6-480183748bd8&pd_rd_w=bmQ4P&pd_rd_wg=7ZU9O&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=F20PSH58JCQN60PP1T5G&qid=1573220626
You'll need to wire in the blue wire to power the antenna amp. Don't hook it up to a constant 12v feed (yello), either use a switched feed, or wire it to the matching blue feed on the back of the harness (it's the one that feeds out of the two pins jumped together by a blue wire).
​
Sorry I can't be 100% on the last couple of adapters - if you have trouble confirming feel free to DM me and I will be happy to check when I get home from work, I kept the packaging for later reference, and again, Best Buy does have these in their computer, so even if your local one doesn't carry them, they should at least be able to give you the part number.
Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what to buy, but I'll take a stab...
Electronics:
Speakers:
There are 2 directions you can go here, active front stage, or passive with rear fill. I'm going to give you an active front stage setup with no rear speakers. Door drivers for this car are difficult due to the shallow mounting depth so I stuck with speakers that are less than 2.5" deep
Subwoofer:
Accessories:
Grand total: $1,200
I don't have RDS, but I do have the JBL Synthesis system, that looks like this.
That said, I have some confusion with the wiring harness...
Thanks
yea maybe.... Next time buy the wire harness for your car...They are like 3 bucks
Example
Grounding was a common workaround for head units with nav systems that required the car to be in park to enter an address or generally be useful. The manufacturers caught on to people just permanently grounding the parking brake wire to trick the head unit so they got a little smarter by checking to see if the parking brake toggles when the car is started.
There are specialized parking brake bypasses that simulate the parking brake toggle, here's one listed for the 4100-NEX. If OP tried grounding or the wire isn't hooked up in the first place this might be the ticket.
Do yourself a favor and get a reverse harness set from something like Metra. It'll break out the connections into bare wires in fairly standard color coding. Yellow is hot +12V, Red is switched +12V, Black is Ground, Blue is amp +12V, etc.
Metra Harness Set
Antenna Adapter
I am going to assume that u have a double din. The cheapest option would be the Pioneer AVH-290BT and you will need to buy radio wiring harness (my car needed this). I installed a 3.5mm audio cable too only to realize after that it has bluetooth
Um...that's exactly what I'm doing but you still need to connect the stereo harness with the adaptor harness since stereos have different input configurations.
This is what I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=psdc_10981131_t1_B0007KK2G0
These worked for me. nice plug and play
RED WOLF Car Front Door Pro Tweeter Audio Speaker Wiring Harness for 2010-2019 Toyota Corolla, 2008-2013 Toyota Highlander Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector 1 Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2HkTDb29AXJEX
20-pin Subaru/Nissan Headunit/Radio Wiring Harness with Steering Wheel Switch wires
This is the thread:
​
https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-camry-5th-6th-gen-2002-2006-2007-2011-2nd-gen-solara-2004-2008/1567626-diy-gen5-headunit-upgrade.html
​
tl:dr you need:
​
Metra 70-8113
https://smile.amazon.com/Metra-70-8113-Amplifier-Integration-2000-2004/dp/B0007WRQQ2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Metra+70-8113&qid=1554440893&s=gateway&sr=8-1
​
Metra 99-8231 (if single din radio)
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https://smile.amazon.com/Metra-99-8231-Single-Installation-2002-2006/dp/B00BAO15UE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Metra+99-8231&qid=1554440976&s=gateway&sr=8-1
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It most certainly does work with your vehicle. However it's going to be overkill. Without steering wheel controls, just use the Axxess GMRC-01. WAYY cheaper. It doesn't give you all the OBD outputs that you'd use to connect a double din touch-screen, like parking brake, reverse signal for back up cam, etc. So if you're just installing a basic stereo, the GMRC is the way to go.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001XOBU4C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509800672&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gmrc-01&dpPl=1&dpID=31KLBpZMsCL&ref=plSrch
meh, i broke down after remembering i like the radio when cleaning the car and got this one instead- https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002B5G4RA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
$40 more, and for the sake of doing it right, i caved right in.
i have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi, thank you for the tutorial. I would like change speaker but I can't find adapter in amazon Italy. They have specific technical name because in your amazon link I didn't found?
2 steps:
I have a parking brake bypass installed that connects to blue-white (Remote), Ground (black) and Left Rear Speaker (Green).
I am suspicious that the bypass is grounding the remote signal causing the woofer to not turn on.
Will remove the bypass and try again.
For nice bare metal, should I just sand the paint off in a small area and ground it to the metal with a self-tapping screw? Will watch some videos to get that done correctly.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s
This is a great thread! I'm ordering parts and preparing for my own install into a 2013 Subaru Crosstrek and I've been concerned with the issues people are reporting with steering wheel controls. It sounds like bypassing the ASWC unit and going directly into the head unit and programming the buttons there did the trick for you though? Does MODE button work to change modes? Does the VOICE button work for activating Siri? Would you mind sharing which parts you used to build your custom cable?
The harness I purchased actually includes the SWC wires compared to most harnesses that don't, so maybe this puts me in a good spot for being able to make this work correctly? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D9K3L44/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT02PO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Best of luck! I'm not sure about '06s, but mine required these adapters. Ford used some kind of plug for the factory speakers, and I needed that in order to avoid cutting the door harness.
This is what I used