Best car audio & video according to redditors
We found 3,085 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video. We ranked the 1,152 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 3,085 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video. We ranked the 1,152 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Which is why I said "and a decent DAC". There is a market for higher-grade portable audio, as evidenced by dedicated external portable DACs and IEMs. Such a device could also serve those of us that want to keep all of their music on them.
> Macbooks already dominate the musician/DJ portable device market
Surely you see the distinction between a MacBook and an iPod for portable audio listening.
I couldn't find an affordable buttkicker brand package but I did find a great amp and transducer on amazon for 2/3 the price of the Gamer 2 (cheapest buttkicker) at just about $100. It works fantastically! I'll post links to the products if you care to see them.
Edit:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter
It's an e10, as far as I can tell it's out of production and replaced with e10k which doesn't have that issue.
Here's the amazon review I mentioned.
Desk handmade by local cabinetmaker. Monitor section can be flipped and dropped 3"
13" Macbook Pro with Retina
32" 1080p LG LCD (Haven't decided what to replace with yet)
Mackie 402-VLZ3 mixer (being replaced by Denon Pro receiver)
Yamaha MSP5 powered monitors (yeah, yeah, I need to get stands. These are getting replaced by Genelec 8030s)
Wacom Intuos 3 graphics tablet
Late 2009 Mac Mini
FiiO DAC
First gen Xbox 360 to not have RROD
Logitech Bluetooth receiver
Cable raceway
TrendNet broadband router
Managed Switch
Short computer power cable
Short "Mickey Mouse" power cable
Short micro USB cable (for Chromecast)
Buy some of these, you slobs
20W amp
Qi wireless charger, didn't work well with my Nexus 4.
UniFi WAP
Flat-head power strip, behind my bed
Ikea MALM bed and nightstands.
Go for all BOSS BOSS audio master race. You get like 4000w for $20. Bump so hard that shit cray
Edit: On a less troll note, you might try something like this
It's the nicest head unit I've owned, but it still feels slightly dated. Weird shit, like there are two USB ports on the back and one is for iOS devices, and one is for Android, so if you want both you need to run two cables out from behind the dash. Even stock Chevrolet radios these days seem to support both out of a single USB. The interface is "meh", I don't love it but I don't hate it. The biggest thing I miss is a physical volume knob, but I would have had to get a smaller screen and I didn't want that.
Honestly the reason I got it is because of The Wirecutter's Review. If I weren't looking for CarPlay/Android Auto, I probably would have gotten a different one, but I love having Spotify & Google Maps in my car.
you should certainly have an amp/dac to get the best out of those.
you don't even have space for something like the fiio e07k?
i use the modi/magni stack (about $180) for my HD650s
I'm not an expert but Rockford fosgate amps have work well for me. Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eZIZDbPG15DB6
500watts for about 130 USD
The major factor will be the quality of your other components—but with the B&W and the Rotels, if your ears are good you should be able to tell.
Recommendations:
I currently listen to the nuForce uDAC-II, with both headphones and studio monitors, and I like it very much. As I said above, it beats my (first-revision) Fubar II mainly in the stereo imaging and musicality departments, especially when used as a desktop DAC with the line outs. The Fubar was accurate as anything, but was a little flat to listen to for my taste. The Mk 2 may have improved things and in any case it's a very good DAC for desktop use. The others I have not listened to, but I hear very good things about the HRT MusicStreamer, and the Creative X-Fi product is bound to sound great, barring any difficulties you might have with installation.
Any of those DACs I am confident will give you an improvement in sound. Listen in the details; the tightness of the bass, the smoothness of voice, the sparkle of the treble, the placement of sound in the stereo image; all of those will be clearly and (hopefully) obviously improved with a good DAC if you're comparing from a default line-out. The first time you hear the difference it'll sorta knock your socks off...
Then again, if you don't hear a difference with your Apogee Duet II... perhaps it won't be that big a deal, and you can save yourself the investment. Also, is there a reason you can't use the Apogee with the PC or do you just want a dedicated connection for it? Another factor will be the source material, so make sure you're putting through CDs or lossless audio files, or at the minimum very high quality mp3's. Low bit-rate mp3's will sound pretty much the same regardless of the DAC you put them through...
tl;dr: In my experience a good DAC makes a huge difference, there are lots in your price range, make sure you'll be able to hear the difference in the investment, good luck, let us know how it turns out :)
(P.S: if it's ok to say so I'd be happy to sell you (or anyone else ;) my Fubar II (original version) for US$100. PM me if you want it!)
Fiio E10 DAC/amp ($75) and Beyerdynamic DT770 ($178)
I originally did this install back in the day when these were first popping up and down, major credit goes to /u/zedix as I'm pretty sure he was the first one on Nasioc to start this whole trend for Subarus.
My first installation used a head unit that was tucked away behind everything. However the weak pre-amp, and the constant loss of settings (disconnecting battery), and lack on Steering Wheel controls really got annoying. So I set out on this Version 2 project.
*96svx.dc - David was an amazing resource with getting the required harnesses for an 08+, as my car came with a 24pin + 12pin adapter (premium nav) it was very hard to find 2 reverse harnesses that would make this install doable.**
I created a double din sized Acrylic box from 1/4" sheets cut to size by a local shop... Here are the outer dimensions if you are interested in making a similar box to hold all of this.
Hardest part out of the whole install was coming up with the wiring scheme, as all of this is fed off of 12v ignition. The tablet needed to be able to charge, and the USB hub needed to receive power separate from the OTG y-splitter. I simply spliced into the cheap-o USB hubs and made my own DIY 5v USB hubs.
I'd definitely opt for the T440s over the T440p. The T440p is quite a fat system, at 1.3" thick. I mean maybe you're into thick stuff, but I find the T440s' 0.80" to be much more attractive. It's also half a pound lighter (or about the same weight when you config it with the 6-cell rear battery). Here's how I'd config one:
Price: $1,164.60 when you sign in via the Barnes & Noble gold discount site (which you can create for free here: www.lenovo.com/barnesnoblegold)
The only downside is the video performance would not be as good as the T440p with a discrete graphics card inside. The HD4400 will run Skyrim, but not very well. Here's a list of games and how they perform with the HD4400 and here's the GT730M for comparison. That's the trade-off really. There do exist systems that could game, somewhat portably, but I just don't think the GT 730m in the T440p is worth having to deal with such a heftier system. I think the durability, portability, and redongculous 14 and a half hour battery life (as tested by Laptop Magazine) outweigh some casual gaming. As far as audio quality goes, most laptops have the same internal sound cards. Fortunately there's some decent portable USB DACs on the market (like the Fiio E07K), if you're looking to upgrade your sound performance.
Also keep in mind that the Lenovo Y40 is just around the corner (probably May?) if you're looking for something with some more gaming prowess that'll be in your sweetspot of portability. It won't have quite the durability of a ThinkPad, nor battery life, but its keyboard isn't far off from the ThinkPad's, and its gaming performance would be far more significant than anything a ThinkPad could offer.
What about the Monoprice DAC/amp? Not sure if it's available out there but it's not a bad unit with pre and lineout
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/
To play it like a regular bluetooth aux you need:
Front: Polk DB6501 $113.69
Rear: Polk DB651 $60.36
Mids/highs amp: Alpine MRV-F300 $138.69
Sub: Sundown SA-12 $194.99
Sub Amp: Hifonics BRX-1100.1 D $179.95
Total: $689 Rounded up, before taxes, box, and wiring.
polk db6501
I also own a pair of the SR80is as well as a NuForce Icon uDAC-2 Black Digital Audio Converter. I would say it's the best investments that I've made for my laptop.
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX Does both Android Auto and AppleCarplay. Has native OBDII integration + other native apps. It's the bees knees. I'm getting it very soon. It's expensive, but god damn, it's the best thing out there right now for head units. Also it's has super easy pop-out ant-theft screen, for easily removing it for when you park. (Parts of downtown St. Louis are really ghetto/risky to park)
Non shitty referral link
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/
$500 nets you an entry level system, even less if you're not installing yourself. My suggestion is to get a new radio + sub + amp. A new single din radio with usb option runs $80-130 depending on the brand (pioneer and kenwood are my favorites). A new radio with EQ adjustment should allow you to tune your stock system to where the highs arent nearly as harsh. The next thing is a subwoofer (plus the enclosure) and the amp (plus the wiring). Lets start small with an 8" sub in a ported box. An alpine type r 8" is around $100 and a ported box to go with it like this is $70. An amp to power the sub adequately could be a rockford prime monoblock which runs close to $130. An an amp kit to wrap it all up could be the Soundqubed CCA 1/0 amp kit for $60.
Total so far is $490 on equipment, and that isn't including the dash kit and wire harness for your car (which im completely guessing is anywhere from $60-100).
You'll need:
Only downside is that you can't change the songs via the car audio controls, just volume. Which is why I use a cell phone mount (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01D0UXIFU) and use my phone as the media centre.
Bluetooth audio is supported by the 2013 and up BUT you can inexpensively get around it by tucking one of these in your center console.
http://www.amazon.com/Coodio-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speaker-Iphone/dp/B00HT07QXI#Ask
On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE
I put one of these under the back seat along with a small amp. Made a night and day difference.
https://www.amazon.ca/PIONEER-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
That amp isn't really going to give you the transient response with a passive sub with it's wattage output, especially if running all four outputs.
You'd probably be best off with the BIC. If you have the skills needed, you could possibly build a DIY with a decent/budget bare sub and something like a Rockville RPA9 bridged and using the 150hz crossover.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-W12K6D4-V2-Subwoofer-Compliant/dp/B07BMMS1LJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642739&sr=8-1&keywords=rockville%2Bsubwoofer%2Bcea%2Bcompliant%2Bk9&th=1
with this;
https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RPA9-Channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B06XDRZD3D/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642824&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rockville+rpa9&psc=1
And this;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=twister_B01MQQB9D9?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
would give you a hell of a lot of bass for around $300.
But that's ultimately up to you.
This is just my opinion, I only have a basic understanding of CarAv stuff, but for 500 you could buy a whole new sub and amp. I dont know who and how much it is to repair a sub tho, so maybe its a better deal. But from my experience, my MTX Terminators are great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2?pc_redir=1408200639&robot_redir=1
Add a decent amp (250-300) , and theres your 500. Chuck a wiring kit in there too, set aside a full day to set it up and your good!
Just finished installing a 4 channel amp with a ton of help today, took alllll day. And dont rush yourself if you do install it. There are tons of helpful youtube videos out there.
Just my two cents!
EDIT: Heres an ok amp, under 200.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJF4V9G/ref=pd_aw_sims_7/188-5557484-9874164?pi=SS115&simLd=1
And my amp I use on my Terminators
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wb4A0iVTrjr/p_236T4250D/MTX-Thunder4250D.html
Hope this helped!
On a budget, I would probably opt for the NuForce Icon. It's a USB DAC and has RCA outputs you can use to connect to your receiver.
Certainly. One could also buy this and this and get SUBSTANTALLY better audio for half the price of Beats (but at the expense of that single red cord). Keep in mind these are open so there is a lot of sound leakage but for listener experience I think these hit the sweet spot as far as price and performance are concerned. Beats don't sound BAD but they are a fashion accessory in the same way Air Jordans aren't bad basketball shoes but they cost so much for name alone.
Yup, something like this Fiio E10 would be a really good option, especially for headphones.
http://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459290714&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+db6501 ..I've had these myself for 7 years and I love them. I have them and the db691 (3way 6x9) in my rear deck. The sound they produce is amazing, more so with an amp.
I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.
If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.
These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.
If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.
Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)
If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.
The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.
As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.
Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.
7506 @ $70 is a wonderful price. I say keep them and enjoy them until they're noticeably getting older. If you're new to headphones you will not be disappointed.
I will suggest investing in a udac to improve the sound quality from your computer. These honestly do make a huge difference. I've heard good things about the nuforce udac2.
The one for $285 should be the O2 AMP/ODAC Combo. If that's too much you could go with something like the Fiio E10. A little cheaper and a solid little amp/dac combo. I've had mine for about 6 months now and have been really happy with it, plus is shouldn't have any problem powering your HD558s.
Although, I would LOVE to get a O2/ODAC but I have a really hard time justifying the price...lol...but that's the audio game for ya.
I recently bought a pair of DT 770 80 ohm's with a Fiio e10 amp and an antlion modmic for right around that budget. I love the whole setup
The DT 770's are VERY comfortable, I could wear them for basically the whole day without any fatigue.
I am not personally familiar with your music, but after a quick sampling I think the DT 770's would serve it well being a bass and treble centric headphone.
DT 770 pro 80's for 149.99
Fiio e10 for $59.99
Antlion Modmic for $32.95 + shipping comes out to be like $50
This has you WELL inside of your $300 budget. This is the setup that I personally use, I play MOBA and FPS games and listen to a wide variety of music from metal --> electronic --> rap. Voices in teamspeak are clear, and the antlion modmic is SUPER clear (and more than capable of voice detection use).
I would recommend getting an amp, while I can power the DT770's off just my motherboard, they do sound much better when being powered off the amp and when you feel like turning them up having the ability to go a bit louder is nice. I was not aware however this setup will be MORE than able to go into "do serious damage to your ears levels" so be careful
Hi Zeos,
Which combination would you recommend?
Headphones:
DAC/AMP:
I will use the setup at work, hence isolation and comfort are important. Nevertheless I'm not competent enough to decide myself if there's enough power for 80ohm headphones from each DAC/AMP
Thanks!
[Sony XAV-AX100](Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TmRzybWFCMVG9) would be my suggestion. Recently swapped my App Radio 4 for this and couldn't be happier. It's only crashed on me once, and when it did it restarted CarPlay itself unlike my app radio which would need the car to be restarted for it to work agin.
Sony XAV-AX100
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SYXTAb8EPE0QR
I've bought 3 of these so far I love it. It has Android Auto & Apple Carplay for those people who refuse to switch to android. It makes my shitty stock speakers sound really good.
Ok so if you own these than you know that the earbuds meet at a hub. From bud to this hub the cords appear to be rubber and very flexible. Below that meeting hub the cord appears braided. The braided portion is relatively stiff and there are some users who report that it frays and/or kinks if repeatedly wound tightly.
I suggest you use the supplied carrying case and don't tightly bend the braided portion.
Now while these absolutely do not require any headphone amp to drive these things (a cellphone will easily drive these), I just for giggles paired them with my FiiO E17K that I use for my DT 990s and Sennheiser HD650s and they open up VERY well if not driven too hard.
This is my go to track to test any new headphones and earbuds I buy and the 1More Triples pass with flying colors.
This is a no brainer purchase if you are looking for sub $100 buds as long as you are careful with the cord.
Ever consider a powered sub? Like the infinity basslink or Rockford Fosgate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZFBvzbVWXXRFW
They add lows without adding them to the car next to you.
I have hd558s and use a creative soundblasterz sound card, and I am happy with the quality. But would something like a FiiO E07K be much better?
like mentioned by /u/milan616 you could just use that cable. if you can still return the e09k, consider getting the monoprice desktop dac/amp for pretty much the same price. it has the usb input youre looking for
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
You'd be better off getting a pair of micca mb42x and a cheap amp like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520822446&sr=8-2&keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews
I've heard good things about the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or P300-12. They aren't a tube per say, but a samll-ish sub box with a 300 watt amp built in. The 12 runs $250. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=p300-12&qid=1563151399&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Here's two options:
A.)
sub and amp.
box.
Total: $166.03
B.)
amp and sub
wiring kit
Total: $209.79
You'll have to be thrifty @ $500, but I think you can put something together that sounds good.
I have a 5-channel amp in my truck with 4x 75w (only using two channels here) and 1x 350 w for the sub. It's plenty loud. The 5 channel is nice for simplicity, but doesn't leave any room to grow if you decide you need a bigger sub or something.
People talk about powered subwoofers on here once in a while, you'll find recommendations if you search. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/
You might need to play with the sub position to get it to sound good in teh van (might resonate at some frequency in the back corner but sound better a few feet forward, etc. TBD. If you give it a few feet of cord, you can move it to the back fo the van when you''re listening to music ouside the back doors.
These are affordable and sound good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/
https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65
I think you might need to spend at least another $100. My daughter has this and it’s pretty awesome as far as powered subs go.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B007AQ2W6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520480494&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+punch+300&dpPl=1&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&ref=plSrch
It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.
Headunit - DEH-150mp
(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)
keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.
You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.
Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.
But you are wanting to hack / mod your stock radio to add aux in? Adding a new after market radio is a no brainier.
They will have everything you need at walmart or best buy. If you buy from crutchfield they will include everything you need.
edit: here is what you need: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Radio-Stereo-CD-Player-Dash-Install-Mounting-Trim-Bezel-Panel-Kit-Harness-/390708327192?fits=Year%3A2000%7CModel%3AAltima&hash=item5af807f318:g:37oAAOSwl8NVVOEU&vxp=mtr
Plus what ever stereo of your choice, here is a good cheap one I just put in my moms honda cr-v: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463521607&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+stereo
I would recommend getting a bluetooth one though: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-X4800BT-Single-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01463VLLI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1463521607&sr=8-11&keywords=pioneer+stereo
The cheapest setup would be to get a basic headunit like this for $55.
If you want a subwoofer your options vary depending on what will fit behind the seat, but the rear outputs from the headunit can be used to power a 2 ohm subwoofer with 70 watts (according to Pioneer) so you can get by without an external amp. If you choose to go this route you'll have to run all 4 stock speakers from the front two channels, though.
The HD598 is good, but I'd also look into the AD900X if you liked your old headphones. The bass and treble extension should be much better, and the soundstage will remain very nice and open.
A good amp/dac to consider is the FiiO E07K which has EQ settings for bass and treble, so you can flavor your music even more to your tastes.
I'd recommend the Mad Dogs for $300, and spend $90 further on a Fiio E07K if you want to get the best out of them. One of the best-value high-end closed headphones around.
I would recommend you buy a fiio andes.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
It is powerful enough and you won't really be missing out on anything.
At any rate, you are always better off buying better headphones and getting a good enough amp than buying ok headphones and getting an all-star amp.
For those who are interested, the cans are V-Moda Crossfade LPs that can be picked up on Amazon for half price from retail (my particular pair are Gunmetal, but they come in other colors). The ear shields on the sides are interchangeable and can be custom ordered and laser engraved from the official V-Moda website in various colors, and this is the image I used for engraving... cost around $50 for the custom etching if memory serves correctly.
On the nerdier side of audio, the headphone amp/DAC (digital audio converter) combo sitting on the left is a portable FiiO e07k Andes, all being played from a Google Nexus 10.
Out of the box, the LPs are a bit bassy (or "muddy" as some people call it), but using an amp really cleans everything up, in my personal opinion, and pushes the cans to their potential. For those who don't really consider themselves "audiophiles" or whatever you want to call it, headphone amps make a pretty big difference on mid - high range audiogear... near night and day in my opinion.
Hope this answers any questions about the set up! :D
Well, the HD 558's are actually fairly easy to drive to adequate volume levels, but they benefit from a headphone output or amplifier with low output impedance - from the reading I did, it seems like the output impedance of the Xonar DG is fairly high.
If you're upgrading, you could go for something external with a DAC, like the Fiio E07K.
That said, expect the differences between the DAC and your sound card to be fairly subtle - at most you can expect bass that is a bit tighter and tidier. The HD 558's are fine headphones, but aren't in any way what I would consider high end.
(Also: Your question would probably have been better in /r/headphones)
Sounds a lot like how I use my closed VModa M100s. They're a bit bassy though and at $300 I really can't justify suggesting you stretch the budget. It's not really worth the $50 on top unless you get a lot of utility from the fact they collapse so small for easy transport, the super hardcase you get, detachable cables, etc. Sound alone you can do the same for less.
Such as the Beyerdynamic Custom One. They can be bassy if you want, less so than the VModas, but have adjustable ports to move towards the "open" side of headphone world. Which might be nice for later nights in the office when you're not so worried about sound leaking in. Also the Beyer DT770, which is the earlier forerunner to the Custom. They are both super comfortable for long periods (so is the VModa).
The Custom One has a detachable cable while the DT770 has a typical studio long-as-heck cable. Those are bits to keep in mind if you're going to, say, roll from the office to public transit to the home office. You don't want a 12' cord with you.
Speaking of 12' cords, the ATh-M50 will of course get mentioned. Also very comfortable. More bassy than it should be for a monitoring headphone but I've noticed that changes with dacs/amps. Taking the M50 right out of my Macbook there's a lot of difference between it and the VModa also running out of the macbook. put a Fiio E07K in the signal path and the differences get cut down a bunch. Not entirely sure why as I just noticed this over the week. But wanted to put that FYI out there.
If you stay with these choices, and/or other 32 ohm and less models, you don't need an AMP or a DAC/AMP, but they can make a solid amount of difference. But perhaps not in the sense of "I can't believe I used to listen straight from my headphone jack." These headphones will themselves make the biggest impact with regard to quality difference in the sound. The amp or amp/dac will do more of the Quality Control side.
To me, especially if I'm seated in an office for a long period doing computer work uninterrupted, getting quality full sound out will keep me from putting the volume up too high to compensate for any SQ shortcomings derived from the computer, power requirements which change the power going to the headphone out, etc. Plus, I can EQ some bass away if the closed office headphones necessitated by the isolation requirement remain too boomy for the music de jour.
Things like the Fiio E07K or E17 are great and cheap, so is the Schiit Magni/Modi stack or the o2/odac. While the E07K is probably the only bit that would fit with headphone at a combo price in your budget, they are all interesting $100 bits to add to the setup later to up the sound quality (from the sound card). Not a ton of difference between them all so I would just go on price/feature basis. Or just collect them all. I have a Fiio stuck in my bag for mobile and a schiit magni now at the office, which is easy to connect to the Fiio as a DAC. Probably will grab the modi at some point because stringing cables to the Fiio isn't always "office friendly" in appearance for days where it shouldn't look like I was soldering at my desk, but I am really happy with the setup and work flow it creates. YMMV but hope that paints a complete picture which perhaps can help you judge other recommendations relative to your planned usage.
Here you go, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_zvZ.tb0TXQNX6
8 ohm is not so much special as it is uncommon in car audio. your home speakers are going to be around 8ohm but most car audio subs are 2ohm or 4ohm. so here is a very cheap but good car audio amp: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1406508052&sr=1-4
this amp will do 300W at 4 ohm or 500W at 2 ohm. at your 8 ohm speaker this amp will do around the 150W range at best. so your sub is rated at up to 500W. this amp will run this sub for now and if you ever want to upgrade in the future you will have 500W at 2ohm to play with.
if an amp can produce 1,000W on a 1ohm speaker if you hook a 2ohm speaker to it that amp will then produce around 500W. if you attach a 4ohm speaker to it that amp can then produce 250W of power to that sub. if you hook your 8ohm sub to it that same 1KW amp can dish out around 125W of power to that sub. roughly
I believe you can get better quality for not much more. Look at a Dayton audio or image dynamics 12” sub something in the $100 range that has dual 4 ohm voice coil.
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss315ho-44-12-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-467
Possibly a pioneer or Rockford amp. Maybe: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SkF0AbH0KCQBR
Then get a prefab sealed box. Sonic has them for about $40 and then an amp install kit from knuconceptz or piece your own together using welding cable for the power and ground.
Should run you under $350 and last longer, take less space and outperform that system you asked about.
Oh. You are going to need a line level converter in order to tie into your stock system.
I don’t know why you are down voted. You asked an honest question...
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vlp1CbJTXJETX
Rockford Fosgate Prime 750 Watt Class D 1 channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T166L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7lp1CbQXKYYXD
My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.
This is a great amp for the price, then if you want to get another sub in the future you will have the extra power on hand
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495122194&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=300x2+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51m3QK2fvWL&ref=plSrch
It's a P3D4-10 hooked up to a R500X1D. I was on the fence about getting an LC7i and getting a full new system but went with just the sub and everything else factory. I installed it using the high-level signal and it sound is amazing. Non-fender stock system is fine it just needed a little bit of a bass and a 10" sub in a sealed enclosure did the trick. Also saves on space.
This is what I use and it works very well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G57CWZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You could take apart one of these and use it. Just have to figure out how to supply it with USB power (5v I think)...
Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps
As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)
Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.
I’d look into upgrading the front speakers and giving them more power. You could get a four channel amplifier and power a set of component speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amplifier to run a 10” subwoofer (rear door speakers would run off of the factory radio). Pioneer makes a 10” pre-loaded down-firing shallow subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take up a ton of space and you can easily load things on top of it.
Not sure what your budget or car audio installation skills are, but here’s an example of what I’d do with your CX-5 for under $500:
Component Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_091ISS165/Focal-Integration-ISS-165.html?tp=106
4-Channel Amplifier:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_130GMD8604/Pioneer-GM-D8604.html?tp=35782
Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qy-EAb0AA96Y7
Mannn, you're gonna send me down a rabbit hole aren't you. That sounds very interesting. As an alternative I found this custom build: https://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/509-Another-Sub-Installation/page2
And I've had this in my Amazon wish list forever as something that should fit under the load floor without removing the spare: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC
in that case since you have a small car I'd suggest a shallow 10", something along these lines would probably work well, although I'd get a regular box.
With subs the box is key so a bigger box would give you more bass but if space is an issue then I think this would be ok
Either way, any subwoofer will make a huge difference! Cannot recommend crutchfield enough either, they have a ton of guides as well if you want to install it yourself, which isn't that difficult - just takes a while.
This page is showing up on google results now :] Thanks for your detailed response!
Here are some answers I've found:
--
Subs will not fit in the 6x9 punchouts in the package deck. If I want a perfect fit sub, I need to make the housing myself. The Slimline by pioneer looks like it would fit well: Here (this is the 10", they make an 8" which is approximately the size of the speaker.
It's just the Custom One Pro Plus, not two variants.
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In my opinion I prefer the Custom One Studio/DT770/80ohm with any cheap dac/amp to fully power them such as this or this.
With the second one, you have to have an optical out on your pc, and you have to buy an optical cable.
Save up a bit and get the monoprice dac/amp combo: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
This may be due to your on-board sound. Before spending, I would test out the headphones on a different PC/source. Make sure it isn't just the headphones themselves.
Then, when you are ready to buy, get an external dac/amp, basically an external sound card. Check out the Micca Origen($100), Fiio E10k($76), Monoprice Dac/Amp($80), and SMSL SD793-II($63).
Fiio E10k is the popular under-$100 choice (and deservedly so) but if you can find the Micca Origen on sale for less than $100 like it is right now on Amazon, it's good too. For a desktop amp, the Monoprice Desktop DAC/amp is decent for that price range.
Is it worth upgrading to this amp if I have this one already? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
I have the HD600s.
It really depends on your budget.
You can get a decent DAC like this one on a budget http://www.amazon.com/SMSL-M2-Portable-headphone-amplifier/dp/B00KL3SACQ/ref=sr_1_18?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427350827&sr=1-18
But I'd recommend the the monoprice AMP/DAC brick http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350898&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+amp+dac
For the money, it's got everything you'll probably ever need and is actually pretty damn good.
The most expensive "desktop" DAC I'd recommend is JDS Labs ODAC http://www.jdslabs.com/products/46/standalone-odac/
It's basically as good as a DAC can get before you start getting into the receiver world.
As for what standalone DAC/AMPs actually "do," the best way to sum it up is that a good DAC will eliminate any sort of noise being generated by your PC and accurately translate your digital signal to an analog one. Better DACs will give you a more accurate signal to work with but there's only so much you can do before you're just wasting money.
AMPs on the other hand, vary wildly in what they do. Some amps, specifically tube amps, will "color" the signal to be warmer. Some people like this as it takes the "digital edge" off of music, but they're really nothing a good EQ couldn't replicate on a neutral AMP/DAC combo. Bad AMPs introduce tons of noise and distortion into your signal, good AMPs don't. Good amps also offer better separation between the left and right channels. The sky is really the limit on AMPs when it comes to price to performance but the bulk of that performance is going to be in raw power rather than in quality.
A good standalone AMP would be the Schiit Magni 2 http://schiit.com/products/magni-2
Their DAC the Modi 2 is also REALLY good, especially for the money. I have the Modi v1 on my desk right now and short of buying an ODAC, I don't think I could be happier with my setup.
Hope this helps!
First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.
These.
Received wisdom is that something like a Fiio E7 is the best way to go.
It provides a very good DAC and headphone amp, away from the "noisy" interior of the PC.
I've been thinking about doing this for a while, just because I want to be able to display some custom gauges. You'd need a good touch screen + an install kit + a wiring adapter at the very least. For me, I'd also get something like this since the audio output quality from a Rpi has received mixed reviews at best. Then you'd need to figure out the best software to use, which I'm not very familiar with yet.
If you don't want to get into anything custom, a Pioneer Appradio would be much easier and probably cheaper too: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/Car/ch.AppRadio.Compare
Fiio makes some pretty nice budget and portable amps.
What are you looking for? For a introductory tube amp, I would reccomend the Vali + Modi amp/dac combo. They are made by Schiit, and their products are really good for their price.
You should definitely get an amp for those. Something like the Fiio E11? (I'm sure others can chime in with better suggestions).
Also, don't forget to let them burn in.
In terms of gaming, you want an open headphone since they give wider soundstage.
If you need a mic, Modmics are popular or you can get a desktop mic.
With all that being said, DT770s are definitely an upgrade over most if not all gaming headsets so enjoy!
Tek Syndicate also have videos relating to this topic
If you have 100$ to drop on a headphone amp, get something like a Magni or an E11 and simulate the effects of that thing with an equalizer. You'll get the same results and much better sound, and the effect isn't literally baked into the hardware if you ever want to get rid of it and just have a nice amp.
Sennheiser HD449.
If you really want an ear orgasm, combine them with any of FiiO's amazing headphone amps.
My combo: FiiO E11 + HD449 = ear bliss.
Detailed specs and frequency response chart:
http://www.headphone.com/headphones/sennheiser-hd-449.php
Example purchase links:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1348252469&sr=1-1&keywords=fiio+e11
http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-449-Headphones-Black/dp/B005SNPV8K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348252455&sr=8-1&keywords=sennheiser+hd449
You can buy something cheap like this or more expensive like this. Both of them will work.
One is a sound card, may have a different EQ and perhaps a very small AMP included. The other is a Digital to Analog Converter plus an Amplifier.
Hope this helps.
iPhone 6S.
I do have an external USB DAC I could try.
I also have the Audio Technicas. Are they good enough?
I would recommend this one:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
It does not have a mic though.
Yep Schhiit dac and amp are fantastic and the HE400 is as well. Can't go wrong with that combo!Schitt ModiHifiman HE-400
Getting into magnetic planar speakers will get you into a whole other class of audio.
Magnetic planar speakers love power so a Magni wouldn't be bad either but that's over the $500 mark but it's not really required. Also the modi have rca outputs so you'll need something like this http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Y-Cable-6-Inch/dp/B000I23TTEEDIT:Skip the modi and just get a Fiio E10 Sorry screwed up on the dac deal but the HE-400 is still worthy by and the Fiio E10 will perform as a good dac and amp.
I agree with pagonda, I'd return them.
Someone lit the TSR signal, and thus I am here :P
I bought the Aura bass shakers and a Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier. My Bass shaker is rated for 50W, where the Lepai amp only comes with a 3A PSU, so I picked up a 6A PSU on the recommendation of someone in this subreddit, and it's been working fine (hasn't burned up or anything). I'm currently attaching it to a ford cobra seat, but just from the limited test use I've done so far, it works great. Definitely shakes my entire apartment when I turn it up.
The entire kit came out to about $90 after shipping, which I figured was a great price. I've seen someone recommend getting 4 amps and 4 transducers and mounting them on the corners of my seat, then running SimVibe to simulate each wheel independently, but I haven't tried that personally. Nor have I tried the actual brandname buttkicker, so I can't say how this solution compares. But I will say it adds a huge amount of immersion to Assetto Corsa.
EDIT: Oops, forgot the parts list:
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer by Aura Sound - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_VjzVtb1MV70BA
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output by Lepai - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=asc_df_B0070Z87YO3169620?smid=A385A0XNQBW8HY&tag=pgmp-401-100-20&linkCode=df0&creative=395109&creativeASIN=B0070Z87YO
12v 6a Adapter Power Supply for LCD Monitor with Power Cord by LCD AC Power Adapter - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TUMDWG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_tlzVtb1TKD73K?tag=viglink20241-20
Basically, there's two components to think about. An amplifier takes power and audio input (as stereo RCA plugs or a 1/8th inch jack) and outputs amplified audio (almost always as binding posts or clamps for speaker wire). Speakers take amplified audio as input (again, as binding posts/clamps for speaker wire) and make noise.
Active or powered speakers just means that you're buying the amp and the speakers integrated as one unit. M-Audio AV40s are a good example of this. Scroll down and you can see a picture of the back of one speaker. Power cord, RCA inputs, and speaker wire output to the other speaker.
Passive/unpowered speakers mean you're just buying the speakers, and you need to buy an amp separately. A good example of this is the Micca MB42x and Lepai LP-2020. Again, look at the back of each one to get an idea of how they're connected.
If you want simplicity, go for a pair of powered studio monitors. However, what you trade off with that is upgradeability - because monitors are integrated all-in-one, you can't easily add to them later on.
If you want to go the component route, I'd recommend a 2.1 amp (meaning it has outputs for 2 speakers plus a subwoofer) such as the Lepai 168HA. Add in some unpowered bookshelf speakers like those Micca MB42x, and you've got a great system for less than half your budget. Depending on how much room you have on the floor near your desk, you can also add a subwoofer, either now or at some point down the road. The Dayton Audio SUB-800 for example is small enough to fit under a desk pretty easily, and would still be within your budget.
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2.1+lepai&qid=1564026642&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Here's that same amp but cheaper.
Even with that amp or any similar amp it's not going to power the sub, but it can connect to it. A sub will have it's own amplification. A 2.1 amp like that will allow you to connect a sub that doesn't have high level outputs, like the MartinLogan Dynamo 300 for reference (has high level inputs but no outputs)
On the sub you linked, assuming you go with the Micca's and the Lepy LP-2020A:
Speaker wire from the amplifier to the subwoofer "high level input", then speaker wire from the "high level output" to the speakers. That sub allows you to connect it with pretty much any existing stereo setup.
Couple ideas for you:
Pyle
Lepai
Belkin Splitter
I went ahead and preemptively ordered this DAC/AMP, mostly because it's fairly cheap and has good reviews. I feel like I'm entering the audiophile rabbit hole from which there may be no coming back.
Here is the Best Buy model
Here is the Amazon model
Both, from what I can tell are the same thing. Best Buy price matches Amazon under the conditions that they are "Fulfilled by Amazon, and are the same exact model"
The new practice for most B&M stores is to get the manufacturer to give them a "custom model" so they can get around the price match against Amazon. (Hence the 4200 vs 4201).
I'm technical, but have no experience taking apart my dashboard to get to the radio. I'm under the gun now, my girlfriends lease is up this month, and my car is never used, but she wants a backup camera, and for 700 bucks, it saves us 300 bucks a month.
Most mid-upper level head units have the ability to plug in a backup camera. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a unit with Android Auto without a backup camera plug. Also, if it has Android Auto, you're guaranteed to have a USB port, as it's required, and all head units with the above mentioned features will most certainly have an aux input as well.
Also, I hear Crutchfield's customer service is top-notch. You should be able to give them a call with more specific questions.
Here are a few well-reviewed units I'm considering for my WRX with all of the features you listed:
Pioneer AVH-4200NEX
Kenwood DDX9903s
Sony XAV-AX100
150 for an HD650 is a good deal and a properly amped HD650 is taking a huge dump on the HD598CS. But using the HD650 portable is not possible, due to its open back build and the poor isolation and high sound leakage that comes with it.
The HD650 is a headphone for desktop use only and using it with a portable amp does not make much sense.
If you really need a portable DAC/Amp and want to amp an HD650 the logical choice would be
___
Don't understand me wrong. The Fulla 2 will most likely work with everything you throw at it. But don't expect it to drive the HD650 while listening to Clair de lune with a track gain of +19dB
It's a Sony XAV-AX100 You'll need this Metra Kit to fit the new stereo. If you have a Bose system you'll either need to bypass the Amp or get a line level converter. I started with the line level converter, the sound is better than the stock system but still not great. I plan on getting a new amp and speakers eventually. I just wanted bluetooth and Android Auto to start.
https://www.wickedcas.com/370z-corner-stage1-package---stereo-system-jl-audio-.html
That's what I bought. And for the head unit I got this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-FgGAbFTXTGM8
I have a pair of Sennheiser HD 650's and a FiiO E17K Aspen 2 portable DAC.
Those two combined with the proper EQ settings for the headphones = fucking Nirvana.
That setup plus the FLACs from HDtracks is going to be my experience for the new album.
Buy a new a headunit. I did that for my 2008 civic. They range from 200 over 1k USD. I bought this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
I just upgraded my 15 STi (w/ Harmon speakers) with the Pioneer 4200NEX. Its on sale for $200 off. I was able to retain my steering wheel controls with another component. Probably your best bet for seeing Android Auto in a WRX until 2020. I've not aware of any OEM updating existing systems to add Android Auto / Apply Carplay after release.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483974741&sr=8-1&keywords=4200nex
Not a PCIe sound card, but I have a FiiO E17K DAC/AMP for sale at £75.
There's some more info in the thread I made a few days ago.
Never dropped below £94.99 new on Amazon.
I'm rolling on a 2017 STI base and from all the research I did when I was looking into making my sound system not sound like garbage in my car, seems the general consensus has been that these cars all have terrible head units, the stock speakers actually aren't bad (the head unit is just that bad that it makes them sound bad), and that the subaru kicker speakers are far too much money for what they deliver.
Oem audio plus even keeps the stock speakers in their solution. They do replace the tweeters though and obviously add a sub.
A simple under seat subwoofer seems a far better value to get bass into the system. You can even get a kicker for $200.
I'd ultimately suggest replacing the head unit along with getting a simple under seat subwoofer for an more even and overall solution.
I went with the Pioneer 4200NEX and a Cerwin-Vega under seat subwoofer.
Sounds pretty damn good and I now have android auto (and apple carplay if you're into that).
there are ones that do Android Auto, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/
This is a cheaper model than what I have. I have the 8200 nex and the one I linked is the 4200.
This is what it looks like. There is a gap, but it's not too bad honestly. It's almost impossible to find one that fits fully. I don't think any reputable brands make it in the size we need in the USA. Anything is better than the shit stock one. I hated that fucking thing lol.
HU: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51eUfp1qb2L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Bypass: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Automatic-Interface-AVH-4100NEX-AVH-4200NEX/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520966717&sr=8-2&keywords=pioneer+4200&dpID=51x1VlAngzL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
pioneer makes the best ones IMO
they all now have car play and what not -
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480721485&sr=8-8&keywords=pioneer+AVH
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
this is what i got and I love it. Works great with the iphone and I hear it workswell with android too.
There are three types of "Android" headunits:
You can't customize how it looks or behave, and you can only use the apps that are allowed to run by Google.
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ti5gzbYGHPH7W
Like I said love the looks but white backlight buttons kill it for me so either tint them orange
Plus for 400 you should be able to get 7" with nav and carplay etc in a pioneer Nex or kenwood
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QSVszb3541RSY
Oh goodie, so that's basically the easiest possible combination. (I was asking about steering wheel controls and subwoofers because you'd need even more adapters for those. And auto climate control makes the din kit a pain in the ass, you gotta import it from Japan. But yours looks like a base model without any of that.)
So you're going to need:
Crutchfield also has some good resources. The only thing is that the aux port under the palm rest won't work anymore, unless you can find a way to adapt it to the new stereo. Many new stereos don't even support aux anymore. Also the Sony I mentioned (probably amongst others) has a USB port hanging off the back, so you'll need to get a USB extension and run it to somewhere in the car. Like drill a hole somewhere in the center console and run the cable up.
And here's a guide for actually removing the stereo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIyQGdXUxS4
Get this instead.
At $200 you don't have a lot of options for Spotify capable DAPs as you surmised. An AMP/DAC would probably be the way to go if you're looking to put a little more juice into your current IEMs. FiiO is definitely well regarded in the price range you are looking at. I think the next best portable amp I see recommended regularly is the Oppo ha-2 at around $300 new. Like I said, I had buzzing with the my E18, but /u/AV3Nguyen didn't. I've seen others [claim to have this issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/5386ko/fiio_e18k_gsm_interference/ too, suggesting that it has to do with GSM networks, so it might not matter to you either way. Otherwise the E17K is a perfectly fine option. You'd even have the option to upgrade to the docking unit if you wanted. Your mileage may vary with all of this, of course, since a lot of IEMs aren't very power hungry. You might not notice much more than a bump in your potential volume, but it will future proof you should you want to pick up something that needs a bit more oomph.
The third option would be to put the money towards a slightly better phone with the features you want, unless there's a reason you'd prefer to have your music on a separate unit. The LG v10 and v20(not yet out) have good DAC/Amps, so those might be options if your carrier allows, though I don't know how much you were going to spend on the phone.
That's why I use one of these to listen to music at work.
good morning. i'm no expert, but would it be a problem driving 250ohm headphones with a 600ohm amp?
also, i would suggest considering a more portable headphone amp. if you're going to spend on some nice headphones, there's no reason to limit their use to at home because you've only got a clunky headphone amp that is designed to sit on a desk.
​
Fiio is well known in the headphone amp market, and they definitely have more pocketable products.
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/
​
don't know if the amp you're looking at has particular features you want.
> good alternatives to these headphones with good bang for my buck
I got a chance to demo those Sonys. Can't say enough good things about them.
Also worth looking into Audio-Technica AT-M70X ($223). AT's new flagship monitor headphone with an amazing sound. Definitely gives the Sonys a run for their money, especially with such a competitive price. I might even like them better.
I'm also quite fond of NAD Viso HP50 ($249). Just an incredible closed-back can.
>amp designed for headphone listening, that I can plug into my Macbook pro and that is hopefully less than $100.
Nothing really worth looking at under $100. Maybe Creative E3 ($99) or Topping TP30 ($99).
However, if you save money on headphones by going with the AT-M70X or the Sennheiser Momentum 2.0 (which are on sale for like $149), you could put the money you saved towards a better amp/DAC.
So if we assume a budget of, say, $200 for an amp/DAC, you can step up to something like Creative E5 ($189), Fiio E17 ($139) (it's even portable!), or Topping TP32EX ($159). Fiio probably makes the best offering in this range.
I've got the FiiO E17K which can currently be found at $100 @ amazon.
It's great for my needs. I mostly use it with the desktop at work and with my Asus Transformer everywhere else. With the Transformer I usually deactivate the charging function so the DAC won't drain the laptop battery. As for headphones, I have the ATH-MSR7.
I don't really like using it with my phone as I find it quite uncomfortable to carry around both the phone and the DAC/AMP. And this is regardless of the size of it, it's just having two things with me... Meh, don't like. And the phone output from my Nexus 5 is more than decent (that's also because my headphones are very easy to drive, only 35ohm).
What I really like about this DAC/AMP is that it has a small equalization thingie (not like most of the devices which usually just have a bass boost switch). It provides +/- 10db of bass and treble in steps of 2db. For some reason, tweaking the EQ from the DAC instead of the PC player sounds better (maybe I'm just bad at EQ-ing). It also has two gain steps +6db and +12db. The overall build quality is great in my opinion. Only the volume scroll feels strange sometimes but I don't really use it much anyway.
Now, you didn't say much about your needs so I don't know if this fits your headphones requirements but it's an option. I also don't say you should buy this. Read around, see what's available and if you have the chance go somewhere and test some devices. You might like something else about a portable DAC/AMP.
Yes, you just need an amp capable. The cheap 2 channel ones arent going to have a sub output usually. That requires a price jump.
But something like this combo will blow the pants off that logitech set
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU
https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-DTA-1-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B001PNOH2I/ref=pd_sim_23_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001PNOH2I&pd_rd_r=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE&pd_rd_w=u1mFH&pd_rd_wg=GZfhZ&psc=1&refRID=HVF5NKWDYNW6JPNRBSEE
this is a cheapy amp with sub out
https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1520822446&sr=8-2&keywords=Lepai+amp#customerReviews
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518544998&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=lepai+168ha&dpPl=1&dpID=41HAXZahetL&ref=plSrch
Would this be a better amp for the price?
I heard the subpac was good too, as was the buttkicker. But the subpac is expensive and the buttkicker was sold out lol so I bought the budget tactile feedback rig (Recommended by another /r/oculus member.) which included these three things. It also took a few wires and some tweaking but after mounting it to a chair, I love it
Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EubfAbY7QGTG2
So I have a 15" Soundqubed 1200W RMS subwoofer being powered with a soundqubed 1200w amp. The sub and box are so heavy in my trunk, and I honestly don't really want to listen to it loud because it hurts my hearing.
I am wanting to go with a smaller and more light weight set up. I am torn between getting an under the seat Rockford Fosgate subwoofer, this one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PS-8-Underseat-Subwoofer/dp/B00Y3WKUX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712591&sr=8-1&keywords=underseat+subwoofer+rockford+fosgate&dpID=51c8j4HS70L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
But then I am worried it might not be enough bass, and so I was thinking about getting a loaded enclosure and either 10" or 12", something like this https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712633&sr=8-2&keywords=rockford+fosgate+loaded+enclosure&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Right now I have 2 kicker tweeters up from, and a 6.5" kicker 2-way speaker 60W rms each in each door. They are powered by an amp and sound really good, I just need some bass to compliment them.
Any advice on the under the seat sub? Should I get a loaded 10 or 12 inch over it, and if so...the 10 or 12? Thanks.
This will be much better for your budget you just need a amp kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0xPAub0K3B7YD
What you want to look for is a single din head unit.
Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvMHybMT2RYV9
Now depending on what else was ripped out of the car you may need a new wiring harness
Metra 70-1721 Wiring Harness for 1998-2005 Acura/Suzuki/Honda Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BF09S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_twMHybX5GZZK1
And a radio antenna adapter... I couldn't find this alone on Amazon. Here's a bundle with the wiring harness, antenna adapter and dash kit
HONDA ACCORD 1998 - 2002 DASH KIT + WIRE HARNESS + RADIO ANTENNA ADAPTER https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBF71DM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TxMHyb1RKAN9K
Hope this helped out.. any single din head unit will work I just took the first one I saw to show you.
Yea I'll get you links to everything. It was under that price for everything I bought. Just give me a few minutes to look it all up.
[Bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008AGQMQC/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_bwq8_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_r=6QBRES82RMG68N7ARNJA&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=cb8ba3ed-c555-5ae7-994c-0c95004dcc84&pf_rd_i=226184)
[cd player] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0091V0A9U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483408419&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Car+cd+player&dpPl=1&dpID=41lZUWt96qL&ref=plSrch)
[install kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Install-Accord-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL113O)
If you end up installing this stuff, I recommend buying one of these It sorta covers up the stock radio. Mpow CD Slot Car Mount, Universal Cell Phone Holder with Three Side Grips for iPhone 7/6s/6 plus, Android Smartphones, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC29ETE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-tWAybPGDNZKQ
For a beginner setup, not bad. I started with nearly the same quality, as for the deck. I wish you would stay away.
What I would keep if I were you:
What I would get rid of:
Why would I get rid of that? Well, for starters. That Boss HU will freeze up, constantly. You have to cut power every single time it freezes up. Buddy of mine had a Boss HU and it froze constantly. As for the subs, I would knock those out simply because that amp will most likely cook them, it's not a bad amp, but those subs will not tolerate any clipping from that amp, they'll blow.
As for the HU: [This] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-KD-R450-Headunit-Receiver-Control/dp/B00IEK4I6A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654851&sr=8-3&keywords=JVC+head+unit) or [this.] (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654888&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+head+unit)
As for the subs: [These will handle your power] (https://www.amazon.com/Cerwin-Vega-HS124D-Shallow-Subwoofer-4ohm/dp/B00ZDVJTS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474654929&sr=8-1&keywords=cerwin+vega+subwoofer+12%22)
You won't be happy with the Boss HU or the Boss subs.
There are better options out there, but I see you're on a budget. I have ran the newer Cerwin-Vega woofers and they won't disappoint. I seen you have shallow mount enclosures, and had to jump on those. Good price, and they work DAMN well, very efficient woofers with decent SQ.
As for the price, just a little more than what you were willing to spend for a hell of a lot better quality.
Just one more thing. You most likely won't need dynomat for a system like this, but it helps. If you already have bad road noise, then get some. If it were me, I would just spend the extra money on the deck and subs I listed. As for the enclosure, I don't know the specs, but those subs I listed work nicely in most of whatever you're going to throw them in.
edit: grammar + some more sentences.
ok, so looking into it they aren't necessarily audiophile features, but they are still completley unnecessary for someone who just wants something to give them a few modern conveniences (like an AUX jack and bluetooth for example) and not much else (for example, GPS navigation, or a touch screen, both not necessary whatsoever for a good quality head unit)
in fact, looking at amazon now, even around $80 seems to be a bit on the high side for a decent head unit, as i'm seeing pretty good quality ones for around $50-$60 on amazon
like this pioneer for example: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_4?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-4&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
or if you don't care about CD playback, this boss unit is on sale from it's usual price of $66 to now about $30
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-3&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
and it has a few more options (not including CD) over the pioneer, as not only does it have aux, but it also has USB, SD Card, and bluetooth if you happen to have a phone without a headphone jack
FM modulator will let them use the stock radio and get an aux in. They'll use it the same as a transmitter (turn to the station it's set to, flip a switch if it's needed, play away).
Generally gonna run around $100-160 (depending on brand), with installation included, at best buy.
I'd say a simple radio would be something like the Pioneer DEH-150MP or Kenwood KDC-155. Those'll give them an aux in and CD player while keeping it pretty simple since there's no bells and whistles. The pioneer is $60, at best buy, not including parts and labor.
Metra FM Modulator Wire Version (you'll need an RCA to 3.5 cable)
http://amzn.com/B0049MV1VM
Or
NEW ISIMPLE IS77 IPOD FM MODULATOR KIT (12 VOLT-CAR STEREO ACCESS)
http://amzn.com/B004UCSGE6
Pioneer DEH-150MP Single DIN Car Stereo With MP3 Playback
http://amzn.com/B0091V0A9U
Kenwood KDC155U Car Cd Player
http://amzn.com/B00AM5JTB4
[Fiio E07k amp/dac] (http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6)
and
ATH-M50x
or you can go for the slightly older version
ATH-M50
Yeah, they're probably fine. Check the seller's ratings to make sure that they've been positive. I don't know if you'll want the very cheapest one, but maybe a rechargeable one or something. For example, the Tiger one that is rechargeable, it's seller has a positive feedback of 100% of 963 customers. That's really fucking good. You'll want to look for at least 95% or above, and hopefully more than 100 customers minimum.
Also, if you want to use one of these, that's fine and all, but it's just an amp, not a DAC. Most of the time, you're really going to want both of those things. Seriously, look at this one. I have it, it works well.
http://www.amazon.com/E07K-Andes-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370971156&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+e07k
I need to adjust my exemptions, I've owed the last two years and probably will this year.
However, if I can give you some unsolicited advice, don't get Beats headphones. To be blunt, they're overpriced garbage. Sure, they sound good, but you're primarily paying for the brand, not quality. Personally, I'd rather pay for quality than the brand.
If you're looking for headphones, you can't do better than the AudioTechnica M50X headphones for the money. If you're looking for earbuds, I highly recommend the Shure SE215 earbuds. Both of them sound amazing, though if you really want to hear how good they sound, a headphone amp like the FiiO E07K "Andes" will really bring out what the headphones can do. Creative makes some great portable headphone amps as well, though I found that the FiiO (which is surprisingly hard to find now, was easy a year ago) gets digital audio from my iDevices, which is fantastic.
I see. You will need to get an extra amp if you decide on getting an external dac, but why is that not the case if you buy an internal sound card? Also is this a good choise for a noob audiophile like me, or are there better combos for under 100$? Thank you for the excellent explanation btw.
my HD-25's sound pretty crisp with this fiio. check it out sometime if you're looking to up the sound quality. get the line-out dock cable with it.
I have the Fiio E07k. I really like it. Nice and small, fits in my pocket, great battery life.
600 watt RMS amplifiers aren't as common, so they're usually a bit more expensive. The sweet spot for amplifiers in term of prices is 500 watts RMS (for entry level systems), so you'll be able to use your system at its loudest without worrying about frying your subwoofers, but your amplifier will run hot, since it will be at full power most of the time. Usually reputable amplifiers will be able to handle it though.
Here are two suggestions for 500 watts RMS:
Alpine MRV-M500
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D
Most people would rather overcompensate when it comes to the amplifier, so alternatively you could step down the power of the subs and go with two of these, and run your amplifier much cooler with the gain turned down a bit, which will prolong its life.
Basically it comes down these 3 options:
Personally, I had the WXv2 subwoofers for 4 years, and they worked great. Plus, they're meant for sealed enclosures, and the W0v3s are meant for ported enclosures. Ultimately, it's your choice though! Hope I was of some help, and enjoy the system!
So quick question, I'm still learning all the math behind car audio and want to make sure I understand what amp I need to get. If I got an amp like this and wired it according to Rockfords website, on the 4Ohm P3 it would get 500W?
Lets talk some talk.
Good
Better
Best
Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.
The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3
An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv
The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d
A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60
A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i
So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.
You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.
Lets calculate installation.
Labor is going to be around $264
Labor + Parts = $705
I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
$700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
$500 or under will be nearly impossible for a system with a headunit with built in navigation unless you go with used gear.
This is what I'd go with on a budget of $1,000.
Headunit $650
Box $135
Sub $73
Amp $115
Total is $973. It should end up a little over $1,000 after you buy your wiring harness and wiring kit, and I'm not sure if you need an expensive dash kit for that car. The new headunit should improve the sound of your stock speakers by giving you a lot more eq options so you can shape the sound to your liking. I added the sub because bass is usually what causes distortion in stock speakers, so with a sub you can change your crossovers on your headunit so your speakers only play your mids and highs and the sub handles your lows, which should also help to clean up the sound.
If you're not set on navigation though I'd suggest you get a different headunit. You can get a unit with comparable features minus navigation for half the price. I normally listen to my music from my phone with bluetooth and google maps just plays through the speakers telling me where to turn. Works really well for me since my unit doesn't have nav.
If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc
amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit
This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these
I have these Rockfords, with this amp. I love it, no complaints.
Thanks for the advice it was helpful. These are my speakers, my 4 channel amp, my one channel amp, and I'm going to install a 12" kicker subwoofer in a factory box.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00YQ674D0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1ZCHPV8EK9A6VJT7C757
Would probably also do the job
here ya go!
You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.
And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.
https://lmgtfy.com/?q=bluetooth+receiver+that+turns+on+automatically
In all seriousness though, it does seem like the top two results will do what you want:
one
two
This works great on my 2007 and meets my requirements: are it and forget it, fast connectivity, no batteries. It's been solid for me:
HomeSpot NFC-enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_S4eNwbEM1KEQH
And to avoid ground noise:
PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_Y6eNwb2BSE5ZD
Tips: don't max out your phone's volume or will cause distortion. I keep mine at 80-90% of volume. I can still use the phone with the car. I have an android phone. I connect Bluetooth phone top cast and media streaming to the adapter.
I use this adapter in my CTS4.
https://www.amazon.com/Coodio-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speaker-Iphone/dp/B00HT07QXI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505421058&sr=8-4&keywords=aux+usb+bluetooth
$8.00 and all you need is a usb power in.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HT07QXI
Works just dandy. It's plugged into my 4 port USB charger (for power) and a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable plugs into my AUX input. It's not for calls, etc, just for audio out.
Not sure about LOC advice, seems like a splitter could work.
What size sub is "small" for you and is shape/depth an issue?
If you're looking into a powered sub I'd suggest building something like this for ~ $100 & getting a small amp for maybe another $100 + connection gear. This is just an example, but there are plenty of prefab boxes in the $25-50 range and plenty of subs in the $30-80 range which will stomp all over a plastic mini powered sub and don't need a big sub amp.
If you need a really small sub I'd recommend a Pioneer 10" or 12" prefab like these with a small (~300 - 500w) sub amp.
> Even a lower end audiophile DAC changes the game.
I don't know how "audiophile" my Monoprice DAC is but yes, it's been a world of difference since I got mine vs on board sound.
edit: to the guy who deleted his comment, this one
to use the SA60 you could combine it with something like Monoprice desktop amp: usb/aux input, with both fixed and variable lineouts to send signal to SA60...this might be somewhat more expensive but would give you a better speaker amp as well as a higher powered headphone amp when compared to the all-in-one VX1
That would work, though it's probably overkill. If you're also using it to power speakers when not listening to headphones that could be cool. But, you might want to consider something with USB.
I use a monoprice headphone amp with my HD600 and it works phenomenally. https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Gotcha! http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Solid amp. Plenty of RCAs (ins and outs) and a nice volume knob.
Do you already have a headphone amp or happen to have a stereo amp or receiver with a headphone jack?
Lowest decent entry level Audio-Technica AT-LP60XHP $129 has a headphone jack for easy to drive headphones.
Or a better Teac TN-300SE Black or Walnut $150 with Coupon code SPIN in the shopping cart click "Have a promo code" above the subtotal on top. The Teac also has a built in phono stage preamp.
Then add a $100 headphone amp: [z]GUIDE[s] \\\ SEPARATE DAC & AMP & TUBE-AMP
Or under $100:
Or look for a better used turntable, often vintage 70s and budget in a stylus replacement $30 to $50 if it does not have a new one.
If it does not have a built in phono stage preamp, you will need to add one before the headphone amp, or use a basic entry level combo preamp and headphone amp, Nobsound T12 Phono Preamp Headphone Amplifier $35 or Depusheng PP500 $25.
Appreciate all this. Helpful to hear from someone who went through the same thing.
What about this amp for an even more budget minded person, though?
I have a similar setup. Buy these:
http://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-PREMIUM-6-Feet-Stereo-Plated/dp/B001VIYYCK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448947514&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+cable
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Have fun good sir, should be plug and play.
> http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Should be [$20 cheaper via Jet with the promo "NEWTOJET"] (https://jet.com/product/Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier-11567/f9210e741f7a4f4ab44cdd35e1e83aa0).
Edit: "NEWTOJET" may be expired. If so, "20NOW" should still work for $15 off, I believe.
I think a DAC would be useful over your motherboard audio. What you need is one with a line out connection to run to your amp. I would recommend the Monoprice headphone amp/dac: Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IAZzwb2V4C040
Honestly the mix amp and the fiio e10k most likely wouldn't output enough power to power anything over 64 ohm. Your best bet would be to get this monoprice amp that's $10 more then the fiio but is rated to power 16 to 600 ohm headphones with a gain selection. This would at least help future proof you for any headphones you get in the future. I hope this helps.
Monoprice desktop amp:
Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g0LQCbY27BTDN
Nothing was Prime Day sale or anything, but I got these beautiful bastards and I'll be driving them with this. I could do a lot better with amps and DACs but I was already $500 deep so I'll settle with this for now and upgrade that stuff later. The wait until Tuesday night is going to be painful. Haven't upgraded in like 4 years.
> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best
I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.
But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.
OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.
This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.
In my opinion, you made a mistake with those speakers. Those are some of the more harsh speakers on the market.
Not to mention that they don't even have a legit Crossover, they are basically coaxial speakers not attached together. for another 20$ you could have gotten the extremely acceptable Polk-DB6501 component set which has nice mellow tweeters, as well as a crossover that gives you three tweeter level options.
I know i'm not helping much by telling you that you got bad speakers, but thats what i suspect.
But, one other possibility is that you have some funky wiring going on... did you use the stock wiring? I'm not sure what the situation is with that car, but if if came with a separate tweeter/woofer component set stock, they may have some sort of crossover built into the wiring. You might try running some new wire and making sure they are wired correctly.
I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.
I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233218&sr=1-1&keywords=pdx-v9
Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:
https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233136&sr=1-1&keywords=JL+TW3
The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.
Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.
Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.
Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.
Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!
That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.
Edit: Link
This one is decent.
Item | Price
:--|:--
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557
That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.
Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.
$150 prebuilt subwoofer box
$55 amplifier
$15 wiring kit
$9 optional converter
The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.
I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.
Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.
From my personal experience, I jumped from the Behringer UCA202 to an Audioengine D1 now, since I bought a set of Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro's.
I played around with a friend's setup, and he really loved the Fiio E7 at ~$60
Portable, good looking and can handle your cans without breaking a sweat.
I have a Fiio E7- works perfectly with Linux (pulseaudio under Fedora, Mint and Ubuntu) via USB (no drivers required) and has dual outputs and is portable. Sounds is great and works fine with all headphones as well. I paid $69 for it.
Micro USB Host OTG Cable with Micro USB Power
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXAC1ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_fNeaub0DNF2KH
FiiO E7 USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amplifier (Black)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FOeaub1EY7PQ2
I'm using these
With this
And I've owned everything from TB x41s, to the this headset and even astro a40/50, but my current setup (which I got for $170) is by far the best I've owned.
I'm a huge fan of Fiio for this
http://www.fiio.net/en
(EDIT: looks like their website sucks, but Amazon carries a ton of them http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4 for example...)
I think you should consider getting a USB DAC along with the speakers. Even something simple like this would add a lot to your enjoyment of those speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC-2-Black-Headphone-24bit/dp/B003Y5FRNS
Edit:
These will absolutely crush those Audioengine speakers - i'm using these in my office system and with a good source they make for an EXCELLENT hifi solution. Until you start getting into $2-3k active monitors you can't find much that will keep up with these QUADs.
http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrmoni&1314806562&/QUAD-11L
edit again: Looking again, those aren't the active variant of those speakers, so they won't really work for you unless you get an amp setup. If you can find some 11L-Active speakers and a decent DAC, though, you'd be set.
I second the external USB sound card/device. Depending on how high quality you want to go and what kind of amplification you want, there are lots of options.
Turtle Beach makes one for slightly cheaper that looks decent.
The soundblaster above is probably a pretty good bet.
There are a whole bunch of off-brand USB sticks for around $15 that probably won't cut it.
There are external boxes, like the Creative Labs X-Fi soundblaster box, in the $60-80 range but probably better.
And for real good fidelity, you start getting into the USB DAC range. Highly recommended if you have good ears/headphones. These can range from $100 to over $500 depending on what you want... a few recommendations:
If that's in your price range then you'll enjoy the sound out of any of them, but check reviews and shop around, see what people think. I have the nuForce uDAC and really enjoy listening to it, so I can definitely recommend that based on experience.
Best of luck!
Yes I just upgraded, I will give an update when my audio setup comes in. I'm going with Cerwin Vega VE-5M's, Audiosource Amp 100, Nuforce Headphone amp to go with my M50's and Bose AE2's, and I'll stay classy with a vintage Pioneer SG-505 from 1985. Don't worry, it's being upgraded ;)
As /u/xTHANATOPSISX said, because you have a dual 2 ohm sub, you'll want to wire it to 1 ohm for the least money.
I would highly recommend the Rockford R1200X1D mono amp. Unfortunately, it's a little over your budget, but can be found for around $250.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?
Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...
Accessories:
Step 1:
Step 2:
Step 3:
Step 4: (all maybes)
It could be and hopefully is in protect mode. Didn't know that existed. I have two RF Punch P3D4 12"'s running at 4OHMs off of the amp. The wiring kit is 8 gauge.
[Amp](Rockford Fosgate Prime 1,200-Watt Class-D 1-Channel Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_kmEHub1A5FR89).
I may have gotten the bass knob that sits in the front of my car wet, and the light for it wasn't blue like it normally was, but instead just off. The subs actually worked for a second while I was going down the road before I realized the subs weren't working. They kicked in and then I realized that they weren't working and quickly turned the radio off, but couldn't disconnect the wire because I was on the way to work. I drove the car again later during work to get food with the radio off again, and after work I disconnected the power cable. I haven't tried the amp again since then, and that was Saturday afternoon.
What should I do to troubleshoot this? I don't want to turn it on again for fear that I ruin the subs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch
I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.
For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch
The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.
Hit me up with any questions
Compare to the FiiO E11 alone on many popular sites for $59.99 - The extra battery and charger are almost free if you're looking to get a portable amp for your audiophile headphones. Honestly, these make a difference for the standard headphones too - they just benefit the audiophile builds further. http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES
The Sennheiser HD598 DrAquafresh linked is a great pair of headphones. Super clear, very comfortable, with that nice Sennheiser warm sound. Two problems though: they benefit from an amp, which is difficult for making them truly portable, and they're open, meaning they let a lot of sound in and out.
So, if you can afford a cheap portable amp like this FiiO, and aren't in loud areas, they're definitely the best option for you.
If you need noise isolation, I highly recommend IEMs. They will isolate sound much better than any "noise cancelling" headphones, while actually producing high quality sound. I have to say: avoid Bose if at all possible. There are much better options for the same price. See this buying guide to find a pair of IEMs for you.
If you don't like the idea of IEMs, most closed headphones will be pretty good at noise isolation. That buyers guide has a bunch of options.
The answer to that question is kind of technical so I'll do my best. First off your phone and your laptop both have an internal DAC (Digital Analog Converter) and a basic amp so why do you need another one?..
Using hifi headphones require more "juice" (learn about impedance) than the phone and laptop can provide. There's also a considerable interference that comes from the internal workings of the phone/laptop that's not shielded. The interference effects the sound noticeably. If you're running a lot of processes on your device while listening to music you'll hear a hiss.
A DAC/Amp like the one I listed above gives the juice your hifi headphones want + shields the craziness happening inside the device from effecting your tunes. That one is designed for desktop use and I use it primarily at my desk at work with my laptop. You can also consider a portable DAC/Amp like the Fiio E11 if you plan on using your headphones with your phone and want portability. In hindsight, I would've bought one of these Fiio E12 models which offers the same sound quality as the desktop model but as a portable.
I have a pair brainwavz b2 and I think they sound great. I use a e11 amp with them, but they sound pretty good out of the box as well. Also the cable looks cool
FiiO E11 Portable Headphone Amplifier ($64) and HRT Music Streamer II High Resolution USB D/A Converter ($149). Reviews here, here and here.
You're better off getting it from Amazon. I would never buy from eBay. Seems so unnecessarily sketchy.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/
Anything under $40 probably won't be enough for the 250 ohm version, but this one isn't too far above your budget and should be powerful enough
Personally, I don't bother with high-quality music on the go, but Fiio makes some affordable headphone amps that are the same size as a phone like this.
Schiit is an American company that makes excellent headphone amps and DACs but will be primarily for desktop use due to size.
Just so you know, a headphone amplifier is only necessary for phones that have a high impedance (the sum of resistance in the headphone's circuitry). From my own experience, my Sennheiser HD598 with an impedance of around 50 ohms does not require a headphone amp (one does help a little bit but it's not night and day), while the higher level Sennheiser HD650 (300 ohm impedance) definitely requires an amp to sound "good".
I don't really know much about IEM or Closed Headphones (my HD598 is an open-end design) which is what you would probably want for listening on the go.
Well the higher the impedance the harder to drive the headphones, thats the basics of it. In DT990s case the 600ohm is the best sounding one, but not by much. The DT990 250ohm premium is almost as good. The DT990 32ohms is also pretty good. You will only be able to tell the differences when listening to all three of them at the same time. But i think the one you were considering must have been the Pro 250ohm model, which is quite a bit different compared to its premium counterparts. It is more uncomfortable, has a smaller soundstage with muddier bass. It is also the cheapest at 200$. If I were you I'd go with the Premium 250ohm or 32ohm models. They both cost around 300$ new and run around 200$-250$ used(on Amazon via Amazon warehouse). If you get the 32ohm model you CAN skip getting an amp, as it wont be necessary, it will certainly improve the sound but wont be necessary. With the 250ohm premium an amp becomes a necessity. If you're going with a brand new 250Ohm premium then just get that along with a AMP+DAC like the E17 or if you want to go cheaper get the E11(it is the same amp as the E17 but without a DAC). You can skip getting a E9 as it wont give as much benefits and would unnecessarily push you overbudget. This should cost you about 440$ if you buy from Amazon(New DT990 Premium 250ohm + Fiio E17 or E11, with the E11 you'll be in budget but will loose on getting a DAC. Or you can get a used DT990 Premium 250 ohm(check out the 4th listing that lists it as like new, if Amazon says it is like new it means it will impossible to differentiate it from a brand new one) with a E17 to stay within budget
The M50s are fairly easy to drive, but ~$40 is a bit of a low budget for an amp, you could find a portable fiio amp used (like the e11) for about $40. As a matter fact, it is selling for $40 here.
However, I'd honestly recommend saving up some extra cash and keeping an eye out for something like the Schiit Magni used on Amazon or Head-Fi. I've seen them go for around $70 used, it has much more power output than the FiiO and it will be able to handle higher end headphones if you decide to upgrade later.
FiiO E10 would be a perfect solution to your troubles
Hola! Sí, es mini USB la entrada.
Es [este] (https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6) por si querés verlo.
Estoy en Colegiales/Chacarita.
Amazon is a pretty reliable source: http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B005VO7LG6
When the Nexus is installed, I'll be using this for my sound.
Here is what I'm basing my stuff off of.
Budget for the sub and amp is <$300 preferably.
Yeah I think the dt880 pros as well as a Fiio E10
my previous post was wrong, sorry. it appears to NOT be the same as the k702.
various places say it comes with an adapter from 1/4 to 3.5 (which is what you need). for example, expand the Q&A section - dig down to http://www.amazon.com/this-laptop-accessory-need-Thanks/forum/Fx2DFM1I2D6PFWZ/Tx312LIISGRN9SD/1/ref=cm_cd_ql_tlc_al?_encoding=UTF8&amp;asin=B000EBBJ6Y the adapter will look like this http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-3-5mm-Stereo-6-35mm-Adaptor/dp/B003R70OA4 (but a bit prettier).
those adapters are large, a nuisance, and can put a strain on sockets. you're better off with one of these - http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-MHE100-5-Headphone-Adapter-Extension/dp/B000068O6B - or similar, which has a flexible cable in the middle.
ps amazon currently have the k702 cheaper than the k701 by the looks of things. they're the same headphone, basically, but black (arguably not as nice looking), and the cable is the other way round - a small plug with an adapter to make it larger - which makes a lot more sense.
pps on the amp... these headphones are not very sensitive, so tend to need amplification. but it depends on taste and your computer and may not be necessary. so you might want to start without one and see how you like it. anyway, there are many to choose from. search for "headphone usb dac" (these actually include a dac, which converts from digitial to analogue, and so replace the sound card in your computer, as well as being an amplifier). i own an audioengine d1 and am pretty happy with it, but amazon don't seem to have that. here's an example of what i found on amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
if you search here for "headphone dac" or "headphone amp" you'll find lots of discussion, i suspect.
A digital to analogue converter (DAC) is anything that converts a digital signal to analogue, such as a 3.5mm port to put your headphones in a computer, ipod, phone, etc.
In the context of this subreddit however, we buy these to get better, cleaner sound than what an everyday laptop can achieve. We also get them because they usually double as headphone amplifiers that far exceed the volume and distortion capacity most devices have. You buy them when you have a good set of headphones or when their impedance is very high, mostly above 32 ohms. Here's a budget example, these things are pretty good for a start.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
This is the one I use : http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
And these are my favorite headphones : http://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-HD-558-Headphones/dp/B004FEEY9A
It depends, what are you gaming on?
If you're on PC, you won't have any trouble but to get the best you need an amp or dac. You can find that for cheaper at other places, it's just one that I had on the top of my mind since I know it's a good one.
I actually use an expensive (For me) Sony pair of headphones and a clip-on Zalman Mic (Recommended to me).
Yeah, sorry about sounding condescending. It's kinda hard not to when talking about something related to a product that one bought.
Most connect through USB, some take optical audio or coaxial in.
The Schiit Modi is a popular budget DAC for $99. Others also have a headphone amp, such as the $80 (or less) Fiio E10.
Actually most of what I listen to is classical. I <3 Mahler.
They definitely sound better than the SR-60 headphones. Do they sound $250 better? Of course not, but it's diminishing returns, and you really have to admit that any headphones over $100 are a luxury item. I'm very happy with them.
I'll admit that I didn't try any other headphones over $200, but I was so happy with the SR-60 (especially compared to any other comparably-priced model) that I trusted Grado there. I probably should have tried some comparable Sennheisers (like the HD-600), though, and I agree that Audio-Technica makes some great cans too.
Yes, I am using an amp, but if you have a good audio source you don't need one with these. However, in this case, my computer is the source of the music, and since it's a Dell workstation with cheap onboard audio, the sound quality isn't great, so I needed an external DAC and amp. I bought the FiiO E10. Aside from my original SR-60 headphones, it's probably the best $70 I've ever spent on audio equipment. It's a USB DAC with built-in amplifier, and it has excellent sound quality.
As /u/MasterBettyFTW pointed out, you might want to take a look at a Headphone Amplifier. A relatively inexpensive amplifier that you can hook up to your PC would be the Fiio E10. I'm no expert, but this is only one of the few that I've personally tried out and was pretty happy with. I'm sure the other veterans here will have better suggestions.
Goodluck!
I'm not sure what you mean. A receiver is a tuner (radio) stuck in a box together with a pre-amplifier - for turntables and other weak signals -and an amplifier (which is what really makes sound louder). What you may actually want is a DAC (specialized digital audio converter if you are using a digital source, i.e. computer or ipod) and a specialized headphone amplifier. Here is a link to one example, there are lots more.
You could also find a used receiver or integrated amplifier (which is basically a receiver without a tuner/radio) that will accept your signal source (i.e. music player) and that you can plug the headphones into, but I doubt that's necessary.
You could get the 598's, a cheap USB DAC like the Fiio e10, and use Razer Surround for 7.1.
Alternatively you could get the Asus Xonar U3 and use the Dolby on there. It will be about the same.
Q701 and FiiO e10.
Get the cans used and the e10 new for a total of around 260ish, probably even less if you ebay it or just buy used on amazon, I think the cheapest I saw both together was 230ish. For what it's worth, I bought both of my FiiO amps from amazon, used, and they both came essentially fresh out of the box. My e17 had a small nick on the back corner, but I never notice it. Other than that, check your local craigslist. I've heard of people finding Senn 598 for less than 100. (Mind you, those headphones are a different sound signature than the XB500 or Q701, I just used them as an example.)
Your first step should be to get off onboard sound. The two easiest routes here would either getting a dedicated sound card or a USB DAC/amp combo.
If you decide on upgrading your sound card, something like the Asus DG/DGX will do fine to start with; they'll clean up the sound nicely and will be good enough to drive an efficient set of headphones. Later when you upgrade your headphones, you can then upgrade to the ST/STX and get yourself a proper amp like the Matrix M-stage or 02. That would imo be the better option in the long run.
The USB DAC/amp combo like the Fiio E10 will be a better option if you plan on getting slightly harder to drive headphones from the get go, e.g. Senns, Beyer...
That leaves you with around $250-$300 for the headphones. For your uses(movies and rock), an open pair of headphones like the AD900 would be a great all rounder; great comfort and very efficient. Also have a look at the Beyer DT880, also a good choice within your budget. These would have a wide soundstage perfect for movies and be versatile enough for most music. An open set will generally sound more natural than a closed one.
If you really need closed, the Brainwavz HM5 would be a good choice and way under your budget, enough left over to get yourself a set of Grado SR80. Grados are known as the hardest rocking headphones around, with a fast energetic and upfront sound that goes great with rock/alternative/metal/anything fast paced.
As some others mentioned, the Beyer DT770 are a nice set but a bit too bassy for my liking. I much prefer the DT250-80, which have a great smooth midrange.
I use just a basic [Behringer UCA2020] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KW2YEI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B000KW2YEI&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=wwwpuresimula-20). And haven't had a single problem with it. I don't use headphones so I have no idea on how good that part is.
The next step up would be the offerings by FiiO with the FiiO E10 being USB powered and having a better headphone amp.
Totally.
Did it, a couple times, just to avoid bending all the way to the floor on the front of the box.
The Fiio E10 is my favorite, but I wouldn't call it cheap.
I'd suggest some velcro or double-sided foam tape to keep the thing in place.
I have a pair of 558's, and I use the Fiio E10. It's a beautiful combo.
Amazon page of the E10: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VO7LG6/ref=redir_mdp_mobile
Depending on the features you want, you could go with a simple amp.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404996566&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.1+amplifier
You could obviously spend a LOT more, but that would get you started. Of course, this depends on the connections the speakers use. That amp uses normal speaker wire for both the speaker and the amp. That would let you plug in anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack using something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-3-5mm-Male-2-Male-Adapter/dp/B004YEBK66/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404996848&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=RCA+to+3.5
I personally would rather use the RCA inputs in the back, but you could use the 3.5mm aux jack in the from if you wanted.
Depending on your setup, you might also like using a mixer. I have a behringer Xynex802, this lets me mix my laptop, phone, and desktop microphone into my speakers, headphones, and laptop's input.
Best you can do is something like this: http://smile.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=lepai&amp;qid=1465334470&amp;ref_=sr_1_5&amp;sr=8-5
It's a short term solution. At some point you are going to have to purchase a real receiver.
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409635171&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=2.1+lepai
This is what you're looking for
I would not get that device. You don't need the led and its overpriced for what it is. I have a lapei 2020 that works great but it wouldn't work with the sub.
This version has a sub output and will be all that you need.
Here are some thoughts.
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6qmgzbWC487DC amp to power the speakers and easy to transport. https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-air-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-with-amt-tweeter-pair--300-651?utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;utm_campaign=pla affordable speakers that punch above their price. Polk Audio PSW10 10-Inch Powered Subwoofer (Single, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5rmgzbW2A60XF and an affordable subwoofer. Run speaker wire to connect speakers to amp. Not sure what your media source is though.
I don't know if this is the cheapest or simplest option, but you could have chromecast audios at the receiver, TV, and PC ($35 x 3 = $105). This would allow you to turn on/off media for the three systems from any device with chromecast support, and you could set up a Plex server if you want to use your own library of content in addition to streaming sources.
Issues:
Can you give the model numbers for the TV, receiver, soundbar, and PC speakers? That would probably be easier than listing their inputs and features individually.
How do you connect the TV to the soundbar? If it doesn't accept multiple inputs, you'll have to go through the TV, which could be a problem.
For the PC speakers, you'll probably need a y-splitter to combine the PC and chromecast inputs so you don't have to switch between them.
The two-zone receiver is trickier, because I don't know how you could control A/B/A+B from your phone or PC. If that level of control is a deal-breaker, then it might be easier to get something like this for the second zone, which requires another chromecast as well ($105 + $35 + $25 = $165).
I've been thinking about doing something similar (3 amp+speaker systems in different rooms), and this is the simplest solution I've been able to find.
Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.
Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.
Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:
Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468928854&amp;sr=8-48&amp;keywords=3+channel+amplifier
Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929161&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=sundown+e12+d2
Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929607&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box
Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929435&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=2+channel+amplifier
Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929479&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5
You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468929693&amp;sr=8-12&amp;keywords=amplifier+kit
Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.
The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.
Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.
Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.
Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line
Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.
For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.
A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.
A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.
I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.
Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.
Thinking on getting either infinity or polk or one of these in the search
Oh really? this is the setup I got
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
Edit I also have the speaker harness
I see. Do you know of any speakers closer to the $100 mark? Checked my bank I got $390 to spend.
Edit: What would you say about these?http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
I found them on the suggested FAQ
You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?
Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497924801&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=POlk+DB+6501
Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.
I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.
ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497925174&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier
So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.
Im open to it. Honestly I was think these Polks in the front at the most. Like I said, theres no reason to go full audiophile since its just a truck.
These look pretty good: JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANI3LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6jHzbECF9SVW
For a few bucks more, I've also heard good things about these: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r8jHzbT4S09VR
I have had these for years and just love them, would recommend every time!!
Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?
Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?
Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..
They are 6.5 and I found these recommended in a thread with a few upvotes: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
Does that seem like a good deal?
A few reviews I looked at indicated that some kind of spacing is needed such as a mdf ring. Is this what is needed in the car?
Polk audio man. These cost a bit extra but would definitely be worth it.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369987553&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Polk+audio+db
I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.
So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&amp;ref=plSrch
Update- I picked up this system: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ill let everyone know how it is.
Question: Does anyone know where the hell the front most Bose speaker is? It is 3.5 inch but I legit have no idea where it is
Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.
Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)
Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier
Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component
Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial
Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT
These fit in an 04 WRX with a spacer so look for speakers this size. Decent speaker too though a little trebly.
To be honest, that is a horrific setup, avoid at all costs. That amp can and will never do "800w", try 200w max. Also, never pay attention to max ratings, those can be whatever the manufacturer wants, look for an RMS rating. If you think the terminators are bad, those are about 10x worse.
Go with O_HAI_2_U's suggestion, it will be infinitely better with one smaller quality setup, rather than two underperforming 12's. Here's a prefab box that would fit the type-r:
http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_bxgy_e_img_c
It's a prefab. This one. https://www.amazon.com/E12SV-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486184286&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Atrend+bbox+12. Would you suggest I find someone local to build me a custom box rather than a new amp? I primarily listen to rap. Thank you.
The second option is closest to recommended specs
I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.
I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.
Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.
Would this be a good enclosure
I can't seem to find the 1.5 cubic feet box. Would this one work?
Also, which would be better: Alpine SWS-12D2 or Alpine SWS-12D4
And what size of amp should I get?
Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.
http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM
So basically my setup will be that box,
Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001
Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS
Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105
Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU
Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N0UEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 this is the box I have. I know it's not best to use prefabs but I don't have the means to build a box currently and anything bigger will not work in my situation in my car right now
anything else I could do to improve?
Oh duh, it was coming up for me since i was logged in, here ill give you my account info.
Login:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Password:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UEE/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Kidding thats the sub and box respectively. Sorry dude!
Youll have $15 left to hit up a Taco Bell
http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/item/ev3-series
is this what you mean by e series?
Also, can you recommend me speakers for my car? I only see wiring/head unit/amp/Subs
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_1294866011_t2_B00J8SV72A?th=1
4.5 rating with 1000 reviews, #1 best seller, 2 12inch w/box, good or no???
https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1216-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier-1200-Watt/dp/B00T3VMUD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485393252&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hifonics+amp
Looks good ?
Did you get this?
If so, you only need 400w rms, so you can get the pioneer gm-d8601. No line out adapter required, as it accept high level input. 500w at 2 ohm, enough, and a bit of headroom.
Just trust me on this one you will absolutely love it SUBWOOFER
My Item much thanks
Great place to start. If you wanna go a little cheaper, this was my first setup
This vs. This
I would rather custom build, but if I can save $$ from a kit I'll go with that.
The alphasonik kit is pretty impressive - two 12's in a box with an 800 watt amp (1600 max) for $177. I had some alphasonik subs back in the day and they hit surprisingly hard. Any opinions?
Thank you! Appreciate the suggestions greatly. I was able to find 2 12"s for $150 and from what I've heard these are pretty dang good. Would they work with that amp you've suggested?
MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zd5RCb37NTMWF
By the looks of your post, you're focusing on adding a subwoofer to your car, and the most important piece of advice I can give is:
BUY ONLINE!
I have 2 JL W3v3's powered by a JL 500/1 series amp. I made my own box after finding the suggested dimensions online. Total cost was right around $550 about 3 years ago. You can get a really good setup for much less than that online Installation is fairly simple and there are plenty of How-To guides on the internet if you're unsure.
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-Series-TNE212D-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=pd_cp_e_2
I just helped a good friend of mine set that up and it sounds pretty damn good for the price.
One question, are you looking for sound production, or sound quality?
Thanks for the input. I got the sub for $45, nowhere near the pricetag from the site but as I said it was used and the other one from the set blew in my friend's system.
That's great to know about the box too, I'll definitely be making some type of upgrade in the near future.
I'd prefer Amazon as I have a good amount left from a gift card. Do you think one of these options would be a good upgrade?
http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp
Description: Dual 12-inch, Terminator-loaded sealed enclosure
Impedance: 2 ohms
Frequency response (+/- 3 dB): 41 to 150 Hz
RMS power (watts): 400
or
http://www.amazon.com/Dual-BP1204-1100-Watt-Illumination-Subwoofer/dp/B000UTMDOC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top (I'm iffy on the "Dual" brand, Amazon has mostly good reviews but I've found some very negative reviews elsewhere. I think the Amazon crowd was just "wowed" by the lights)
and finally, this one looks like my best option considering the amp's power but again I'm not sure of the Rockford brand
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1L-2X12-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B001P86T74/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1367392434&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=ported+box+12
Woofer Impedance: (2) 4-Ohm SVC
Internally wired in parallel to create a 2-Ohm amplifier load
Power Handling: 300 Watts RMS
600 Watts Max
---------
The other options are keeping the sub I have and buying a single 12" ported box (maybe something like this), or finally a double 12" ported box and two appropriate 12" subs for the amp. Sorry to just slap a bunch of links and questions in here, I'm really confused after looking around at the options.
Well here's the thing. I'm not an audiophile I just want the bass to rattle and be loud.
I found this MTX mentioned around the sub and was curious. I don't care about distinctive bass notes.
Is there any decent amps + wiring for $100?
I would probably say $200 max for the sub(s), amp, and box.
I listen to mostly EDM, and some rap, so would like a decent bit of bass boost, as its going into an 05 grand am that only has 4x6 and 6x9 speakers stock.
What about these ones, they're on prime sale for $120, which would leave me $80 for an amp.
Awesome- thanks for the write-up. Here's the list I had assembled that everyone shit on in /r/carAV:
amp
front speakers
subs
rear speakers
wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQWK?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_image_5&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BF0DE?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Didn't pick out a head unit yet. Are these choices as bad as carAV said?
http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=7551285&amp;amp;pid=1218851199236 that's the amp
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2 those are the subs
It's the FiiO E7 USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amplifier.
links for the lazy
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B0006NL5SM
http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B003N0XDT4
This is what I have. A lower end model would probably achieve the same effect but I can't say for certain. However using thay with a micro usb on the go cable works great!
This one and that one are a good place to start if you want a dac/amp
FiiO E7. It will let you take it with you as well, for when you want to use your headphones away from the computer.
If your'e looking at portable amps I recommend this.
Edit: Forgot that it was a two piece set, this is the portable that goes a long with it, they work perfectly hand in hand.
That's still for a computer, though. Looks too big to fit in your pocket. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1344016364&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Fiio+e7) however would be good if you really wanted to take your huge ass audiophile headphones on the go and have them sound good. More than anything, I find that my headphones (Sennheiser HD 380s) are just too big to walk around with.
But if the device used to play is a computer, then Arve ,your comment looks pretty awesome.
In that price range the only things I can think of is the FiiO E7 or E10. Those are both a DAC and an amp though, so either will more or less replace the E11, although you could bypass the amp in either and run a line to your E11 if you really wanted too.
Alternatively, you could buy the ODAC from JDS Labs for $150, which would be your best option. It doesn't include an amp so you'll have to run it to your E11.
You could probably also pick up an internal pci soundcard (I see the ASUS Xonar thrown around a lot but I know nothing about it) for much cheaper. But I'm an external kind of guy, and usually internal sound cards aren't recommended (due to potential noise issues similar to what you are currently experiencing).
This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.
I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.
As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.
/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.
Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out
>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.
In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.
You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.
All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.
I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.
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^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.
I don't think ANY motherboard has a good enough sound card for headphones because you can hear every background noise that poor insulation involves (and most motherboards have that problem). The problem with dedicated sound cards is that they're most of the time geared towards pros and very expensive and packed with features you won't need, I think you should get a USB DAC if you're not bothered by the fact that you're going to have something outside of the computer's case, the advantage is that you can use it on every computer you own while it still works. The FiiO E7 is a popular choice because it's portable and cheap for what it does (DAC + amplifier), you can get it on Amazon or elsewhere. If you want to go for a dedicated sound card, browse head-fi.org, I cannot really help you with that, I've never found them that interesting.
EDIT: btw, to answer your question about headphones, try the Sennheiser HD-25s if you want to get good isolation (so that you can use it in public and not bother anyone and not be bothered too much), they're excellent monitoring headphones for the price and nobody complains too much about the sound AFAIK, the main problem is the clamp, they can hurt after a few hours and over-the-ear headphones are more comfortable by design. If you're really on a budget or want to expand your possibilities, get Koss Porta Pros, they're cheap and they're really good for the price (less than 30$ IIRC), or Sennheiser PX-100, these are both smaller and more portable open headphones. Good luck anyway, and don't make the bet of not trying any headphones live before buying, I never regretted getting my HD-25s, but I wasn't aware that the clamp might hurt that much.
Here's a possible solution. Relatively expensive, though.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4
Sounds like you need an external amplifier instead - something like the FiiO E7 should work: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003N0XDT4
Or maybe the FiiO E5: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P9EQH8
Thx for the fast answer. I took a look at the schiit magni it appears to be a very good amp for little money. The problem is I live in Europe (sorry for not being specific in my question) so the amp+shipping would cost me around 150 $.
So I took a look at some over amps and amp/DAC's . What do you think about the FiiO E7 Amp/DAC
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-USB-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B003N0XDT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382207136&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Fiio+E7
If you want an amp, the Fiio E7/E9 Combo is really nice.
I have a pretty cheap portable amp (Fiio E7) that I use when playing music from my phone. Works surprisingly well.
I dont remember the impedence on 598 but if it is low enough, which I believe it is, I would only get http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003N0XDT4/ref=redir_mdp_mobile I run this for my akg401s if however you ever upgraded to something higher impedance say sen650+ you could simply get the amp that that dac plugs into later down the road (have listens to this setup on 650s and it's beautiful). Amp I'm referring to http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004M172FY/ref=aw_1st_sims_2?pi=SL500_SS115 .
Two great dac/amps:
The uDac by NuForce for $130
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC-2-Black-Headphone-24bit/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1323796239&amp;sr=8-1
And for an extremely tight budget, The HiFiMan HM101
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066AHES4/ref=oh_o02_s00_i00_details
Thanks, that does look like a good option. How would this NuForce compare? It seems to have the save 24bit/96kHz spec and I like the fact that it has a headphone jack.
In the near future of buying some pc stuff and other peripherals, i came across a thought of "which DAC for my dream speakers should i use?" So I plan on getting these sweet puppies:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004H0MQYW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&amp;coliid=I5C4DPHEWA9D4
But obviously to get the best sound, I'll need a DAC or an amplifier.
Here's some I have in mind:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&amp;coliid=I1S7F043SU6CQK
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=17VDCKL4LO5IJ&amp;coliid=I1FYZ24Y1G14AO
Help me choose? i want to get a good DAC but I really want to get the cheaper option. HEALP
EDIT: Here's the original thread for better formatting.
http://www.amazon.com/NuForce-uDAC2-Digital-Audio-Converter/dp/B003Y5FRNS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1341804959
This is good for $119. But if you're willing to spend a little more, go for the Audioengine D1. It's a sexy beast. Neither of these are gonna be going very far though. You could transport them with you when you're traveling but not when you're on a plane.
http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-D1-Premium-24-Bit-DAC/dp/B006IPH5H2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1341804881
I'm dying for that D1 and a pair of Audioengine A2s. It's between the A2s and the M10s. I can't decide.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LmE6xbKXHW2GV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IvE6xbV8VMN6B
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3VMT42/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VwE6xb45EYG7S
Thanks for the advice. Would it be better to get a better amp?
My friend suggested the https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522975277&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+prime
or
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M1200-Monoblock-Watts-Amplifier/dp/B01K8F1168/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522975317&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=alpine+mrv-1200
I'm not sure if the m500 is sufficient
So here are the ones I've found in order from more likely to buy to less likely to buy, looking for opinions on them, if I should go with one over the other, etc. (Yes I will be open to rewiring to 1 ohm)
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8601/Pioneer-GM-D8601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R7501D/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R750-1D.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD9601/Pioneer-GM-D9601.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=car&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536015841&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=car+amplifier&amp;refinements=p_36%3A-30000%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_six_browse-bin%3A7933260011
r/https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTR1001/JBL-GTR-1001.html?tp=35834
r/https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LMCZMY/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I recommend the Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D. Underrated 1200 watts (closer to 1400 watts) for $260.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-200-Watt-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T0YAMG
RF 1200.1
Wolfram W-1500.1
Kicker 1200
Soundqubed 1250
Of these my choice would be the Wolfram.
Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40
Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.
And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html
I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.
I had it professionally installed but they had it done pretty fast and didn't complain too much about the install. As far as how hard does it hit, I have a RF 800x1 amp (at 2 ohms) running to it and it hits really nicely down into I'd say 50hz or a little lower. About half the time I run it by itself and half the time I throw in a RF 12" in bandpass that is ported realllly low and that hits really nice down into the 30hz range or lower (and the amp does about 1200w into this 1 ohm load). I think it really depends on the type of music you listen to. If you listen to a lot of rock or jazz or 4-4 edm like trance or house the 10" JL is great by itself. If you are really a bass head and listen to a lot of dnb or hip hop or old school "bass" music like I do and really want to pound, it might not quite be low enough or loud enough. But I do think it's probably the loudest single 10 on the market, or close, and the advantage of the single 10 in the front is the back seats can fold down for camping. If you put enough watts to it it really is an insane amount of bass for so little airspace. But yea, half the time I augment it with a 12" in a bandpass with one of the two ports blocked so it's tuned lower (as weird as all of this sounds) to really fill in that rumble.
edit: PS for the element I ended up installing 6.5" RF separates with the tweeters surface mounted. This pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IB8RD0/ very loud and the tweeters can be angle mounted. I'll post a pic of the angle mounted tweeters when I get a chance, one of the best setups I've heard in a vehicle.
edit2: Rockford fosgate tweeter surface mount in Honda Element https://i.imgur.com/Zc7ejwt.jpg
Thanks for the reply. I'm just going to swap my amp out for this one and wire down to 1 ohm.
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/skv2-1500-1d
I like Skar audio so that's my first choice.
http://www.down4soundshop.com/sae-1000-v2/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502736001&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=fosgate+amp
https://www.ctsounds.com/collections/t-series-amplifiers/products/t-1500-1d
I'll add more in a minute.
Twisted sounds capable of 1200wrms
https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/content/twisted-sounds-ts1k-1000w-monoblock-bass-amplifier
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_40252_NVX-JAD1200.1.html
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_63975_Pioneer-GM-D9601.html
Can't find a link but Digital Designs has an amp that's in that price range and does around 1500rms
I know I'm missing some but your have MANY great choices.
Ahhh m30. I'm using the m50s but I had the same problem. I don't mean a big thing like that reciever, I mean a headphone amp with a bass booster function. This is what I use:
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395606163&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fiio+headphone+amp
You should definitely look into those two:
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO
Audio-Technica ATH-M50
I have the ones from Audio-Technica and am fully satisfied. Back when I wanted to buy some good headphones I originally planned on buying the DT 770 PRO from Beyerdynamics but before I could order them a friend told me that the Audio-Technica ATH-M50 were currently discounted - so I went with them.
You'll most likley need a portable headphone amplifier like this one if you want to use the Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO with your smartphone.
You would want to use the composite cables that came with ps3.
http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-40645-Stereo-Adapter/dp/B000J1H4VI/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095739&amp;sr=8-9&amp;keywords=rca+to+3.5mm
using that you can get the audio to a 3.5mm jack
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E5-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B001P9EQH8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095704&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Fiio+amp
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372095704&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=Fiio+amp
get yourself and amplifier so you can control volume.
plug the RCA->3.5mm into the amplifier input and plug anything you want as the output be it speakers or headphones.
This is what i use to get my HD650s working with my ps3 :D. It works quite nicely
Would the
Beyerdynamic DT 770 PRO, 250 ohms (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NL5SM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1M3AMBGK3OIPO&amp;coliid=I3JEXU45VJLNNF) be good to walk to and from classes in college with the FiiO E11 (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=1M3AMBGK3OIPO&amp;coliid=IZLOCH1VXRN7N) or is it awkward?
This is what i have. Has an amp to boost the volume, as well as the ability to adjust gain and an equalizer.
Im using Sennheiser 280 pros with this and its able to get very loud without distorting.
Edit:switched to amazon link
I did buy it a long time ago so there is probably a new version.
Actually, I just read a review over on Head-Fi and was shocked to find they say it sounds better than the more expensive e7!!! My man, I think you just picked out my next purchase. Thanks again! :D
Edit: I must admit, for an extra $30 the e11 is looking mighty tempting, too.
Not sure if you're onboard will be able to drive them to their potential.
The FiiO E11 will certainly drive your 50ohm headphones.
If you're looking for something a little more robust looking and desktop oriented, the FiiO E9 will drive most any headphone out there.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES
is what I would suggest as something cheap-ish and basic, i'm currently running a E17 with MDR 7506's. Even if your phone has the capacity to properly power lower ohms headphones it's worth it to invest in a good amp.
That E11 is only a amp though, the E17 is a DAC and Amp, I use the E17 as my soundcard wherever I go, it's awesome.
Budget - About $200 can go a little higher if there is a real increase in quality.
Source - An amp ( The Amp ) and hten into my phone or computer. I will buy a desktop amp in the future.
Requirements for Isolation - They are for use at home at my computer mostly there is no real isolation requirement.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Full sized.
Preferred tonal balance - I like my sound to sound crisp and defined. I also like good bass that you can feel. I really hate it when songs sound almost muffled. My EQ's usually end up being a parabola shaped (u shaped). I hate it when the good bass sound comes at the cost of the rest of the audio quality. I also hate it when bass just ends up being a constant rumble (like what happens sometimes with the bass guitar) instead of sounding like punches if that makes any sense, but then again that may just be the songs themselves and not the equipment. I also like my guitars to great so when a crunchy guitar riff comes on I'm able to hear it well. Lastly I like vocals too. A well balanced sound with emphasis on the bass if it does not come at the cost of the quality of the other areas is what I'm looking for.
Past headphones - Siberia v2: Admittedly I did not buy these for music, they really suck in that department even with my portable amp they do not get loud enough and they have far too little bass and while they play the music nothing really stands out as good about them.
Sennheiser HD 7 DJ: I bought these last week somewhat an impulse purchase and I am not exactly happy with the sound, while it's better than anything else I own currently (I own Razer Hammerhead Pro's, Sennheise cx-300's and the siberia v2) I still don't think it sounds great. My car has pretty good sounding speakers. When I play a song in my car I can get both defined sounding guitar and great bass but with these headphones some songs guitar and/or vocals (most commonly guitar though) sounds like absolute crap. No matter what I do with the EQ I can't get it to sound right. I have 3 more weeks to return these if I choose to do so.
Preferred Music - I listen to a lot of different stuff, Most commonly metal, rock, rap and pop. I however also listen to trance, electronic, jazz, and folk from time to time. I'll post a few examples below.
Metal
Metal
Rock
Rock
Rap/Hip-Hop
Rap/Hip-Hop
try these
Ok I got one more question for you, to get the most out of them would you recommend buying the amplifier? http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=pd_luc_bxgy_01_01_t_lh
I don't even use the base because the battery pack gets in the way.
So I can't find the 32hom version anywhere but I did find some deals for the 80 ohm, cheap enough that I could get a portable amp, such as this.
The prices I found were:
usedrefurb
used a few times - - looks like 250ohm, better?
wholesale from China
Any you recommend trusting or not trusting? Any other places you would recommend?
For the headphones, I would recommend the Klipsch X10. Here is a review from Head-Fi. These headphones have a pretty good seal so you get excellent isolation and virtually no leakage.
As for the amp, I'd go with the FiiO E11. Solid build construction, and it packs quite a punch. It only has a 10 hour battery life though, which can get annoying if you listen to music a lot.
These two products combined cost about $182 on amazon, though I'm sure you can find a better deal if you look hard enough.
The FiiO E11 portable amp should be a perfectly acceptable device to drive your DT-770's at 80 ohms. This is because 80 Ohms is not necessarily a high impedance so you don't need to spend tons of money on the actual amp itself.
Here's a link to the actual product: http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/ref=sr_ob_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375633942&amp;sr=8-1
I also recently purchased a DT 770 80 Ohm, it should arrive in 2 days, although I picked up an FiiO E07k AMP/DAC combo to go with it, thats about 90 bucks.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E11-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0053KWDES/
I've heard anything over 200 ohms will greatly benefit from an amp. Those headphones have even been bundled together with a fiio amp like this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0053KWDES?cache=5a525fc4f6e55beafe1dd0fde8e1e62d&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1410361843&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1
I was using a Fiio E11.
So you can see why I was having issues. Lesson learned, though; Don't cop out on an amp when you're buying $400 headphones.
I've heard people use this amp with the re400s and said the bass boost option helps. Can't speak on their behalf but it works for them.
So I’m sort of new to the audio setup thing, but I recently bought the AKG 7xx on Massdrop:
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/akg-k7xx-massdrop-first-edition-headphones
And I also bought the Fiio E11 (that I can return):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053KWDES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And I was wondering, should I get a better amplifier? The 7xx came with a large jack that looks like it goes into a guitar amplifier, while the E11 only has 3.5mm jacks ins/outs. I like the 7xx’s form factor and it’s very comfortable so I want to keep it, but I am not attached to the E11 at all and was wondering if I should replace it. Portability doesn't mean much to me, since I will use it mainly as an amp on my desk when I'm using my desktop.
Also, should I get a sound card for my desktop? Or is just plugging into 3.5mm jacks on my tower good enough for the most part? My budget is flexible but I want something that will do my current set of headphones justice.
Hey guys,
The DAC and amp guide here seems a bit old and I'm a bit of a newbie so I figured I'd ask here.
Here is my current equipment at my work desk:
These are currently connected using a simple 1/8th to 1/8th audio cable, but the end result sounds awful and looks ugly as well since the 1/8th cable has to be plugged in to the front.
I would like to hook up the laptop to send audio to the speakers, I don't usually use headphones. The speakers use RCA and 1/8th as input, but I'd like to use RCA because those inputs are behind the speaker and won't clutter my desk. In an effort to accomplish this AND improve the sound quality a bit, should I get a DAC? And should I consider switching speakers or do you guys think these are ok?
Ideally, I'm looking for the DAC to run off of AC/USB power since I intend to leave it plugged in 95% of the time. A rotary volume dial would be ideal but isn't strictly necessary. Do I need something like these? And if yes, which one would you recommend?
PS - Could something like this Fiio D3 work maybe? Not sure what kind of adapter would be needed, but it seems unlikely.
Yeah, i wouldn't bother placing the sub another place if you're happy with it now.
As I said over, I'm a bit in the same situation as you. Neighbor(Not old thogh) and thin walls. I figured I just go for the cheap speaker set, since I can't get the advantage of a more expensive one and I'm kind of broke these days. So I use my MH50s to listen to music and games.
Works ok, but I find that my computer can't power the headset properly and adjusting the volume in W7 is a niughtmare. Next on my list is one of these
/r/audiophile is a great resource.
If you want to keep the price low, I bought an Asus Xonar DG, which has a headphone amp built in. Huge improvement in sound quality over the built-in audio on my mobo. Obviously this is only for desktops.
If you have a laptop, you would get an external unit, like the Fiio E10, which is a combination DAC and headphone amp.
These are both low priced options that are pretty great for the money. As I'm sure you're aware, the sky's the limit for how much you want to spend on audio gear.
one more nod for Fiio, e10 is my choice as well. best sound I've ever heard for such a small, cheap little gadget!
Yeah, I think a DAC/amp combo might be the best for right now. I was looking at the Fiio E10. And I'll definitely go with spotify premium, I've been considering the upgrade anyway. Thanks for the advice.
INSANITY
The worst thing I've ever heard play sound was a pair of $4 speakers I had to use before I got anything half way decent. As for the next giveaway, I think a fiio e10 would be kind of nice.
You own some? I am looking at this dac/amp as well as some others 2 3 4 5 and if you have any insight I would love to hear it before I burn another hole in my tight budget.
If you want the best sound for your money (within your requirements) you should check out the MrSpeakers Mad Dog and Fiio E10. You will get sound from plugging it into the iPad Mini, which would be fine for listening to YouTube videos but not really for listening to music; you're Macbook Pro will drive them quite easily but you will get much improved sound quality using an amp. They isolate well but are really too big to wear out and about - they would be perfect if you shared a dorm room or for studio use. They are super comfortable with huge ear-pads, and have a great clean neutral sound.
If you want to be able to use these on the go the Sennheiser Momentum is a good choice. They are more consumer-grade headphones, but you would get way more out of these with the iPad and the Macbook. They are not as comfortable to my ears, but they are much lighter. They are quite neutral with a slight bass emphasis to my ears.
I've recently purchased a pair of JBL LSR305, I've been using it with my Fiio E10. Since the sound card on my motherboard stopped working. I've read that using powered speakers with an amp can damage those speakers. Also is there a way to increase the maximum audio output from these speakers without damaging them?
Im currently in the market for a new desktop amp or dac im new to the whole audio game and would like ot learn. i currently have the beyerdynamic dt 770 pro 80 i know these dont need an amp but at the moment they soudn really low to me. im looking at a price range from $100 - $200
Ones i've been looking at:
https://schiit.com/products/magni-2
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
awesome. I didn't know much about them but just did a little research and that sounds like a pretty good idea. Do you know what the difference would be between using a DAC compared to just the sound card?
EDIT: I was looking around reading forum posts and reviews and came across this. Any good?
keep the speakers, your xonar is not an AMP, its a sound card, you need a new sound card (also called a DAC). get a £60 Fiio e10 USB DAC and use the line out on the back. it should be will be better than the xonar and you can keep the money for something more important.
I use a FiiO e10 Olympus for my DT770 250ohm and it's wonderful. Relatively cheap, quite well-built, and nice looking.
I listen to EDM all day long with these (I found em for $170 CAN)
http://www.amazon.com/Beyerdynamic-770-PRO-250-ohms/dp/B0006NL5SM
and this (amp required to power the 250ohm cans, $60)
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6
the E10 has a bass boost which kicks ass with EDM.
These also absolutely destroy my $350 open ear Sennheiser PC 360's!!!
Need a bit of advice guys. Got like £150 - £200 to spend on my first headphones.
I was thinking about the Audio-Technica ATH-M50s or the Sennheiser HD25-1 II or perhaps even the Grado SI80i and a Fiio E10.
Is that a good starting point? Do I need the Fiio DAC?
Many thanks.
Budget - £150 to £200.
Source - Onboard motherboard sound (HD audio connection, not AC97).
Requirements for Isolation - I'll mostly be in a quiet room at home.
Preferred Type of Headphone - Anything but IEMs. These are for home listening.
Preferred tonal balance - No idea (sorry)
Past headphones - Apple iPhone headphones (lol)
Preferred Music - Wide range from Bruce Springsteen, Radiohead, Johnny Cash, Pink Floyd, some blues, some classical.
Location - UK
If you want good sound people here have nailed it pretty good. Sansa Clip sounds pretty good even out of the box.
Cowon are known for having good sound as well. I would recommend at some point if you want something that sounds really good - look at getting a DAC or DAC/AMP combo - these things really enhance MP3s - they will make you say "oh wow..." especially if you are using good headphones. I have 3 DACs and I recently just heard the FiiO E17 and was really impressed with it - particularly for 100 bucks.
Get the sansa and look later into a DAC/AMP combo. Even with the DAC you are under 200 bucks. :)
FiiO E17 - 121.99 http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW
Also look at FiiO E10 - I have one of these, very happy with it.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1373074173&amp;sr=1-10&amp;keywords=FiiO
Check the obvious and make sure the inline volume and windows volume are turned up. If that's not the problem I would suggest an external amp or USB amp/DAC combo like the FiiO A1 or E10 over a new soundcard.
Can you post some info on your integrated audio or just the motherboard make and model? You should be able to drive them reasonably loud without more after market gear.
Not interested in Crysis 3. What games do you have on Steam?
do you happen to have a USB DAC similar to something like this?: http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B005VO7LG6
Or maybe extra mousepads? Keycaps for cherry mx brown switches? Those are the only things I can think of right now, unfortunately.
An engineering friend of mine suggested buying a powered USB DAC (digital to analogue converter) for any computer when you are using it as an analogue source, as the built in ones for sound cards are almost always poor. This is an example of a more expensive one: http://www.amazon.com/electronics/dp/B005VO7LG6
/r/headphones
/r/audiophile
That said, I use a pair of AKG K240 Studio headphones with a Fiio E10 DAC/Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1348679800&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=fiio+usb
Is this a model you might recommend?
Check out the Fiio E10 - I love it!
Wait. Just re-read your question.
Try this
That is bad isolation in the motherboard/power/EMI. No real way around it accept buying an addon soundcard or the better option of moving everything external with a USB DAC+AMP.
Cheapest option is this.. Behringer UCA202 but the headphone amp isn't spectacular.
If headphones are your main listening source this FiiO E10 or FiiO E7
I made a separate post for this first before a kind user pointed me here so bear with me if you already saw this.
I've been hovering on the edge of deciding whether to invest in good headphones for awhile now and I need the final word in whether or not to do it. I own a pretty powerful desktop and do a lot of gaming; I also have hundereds of gigs of music and enjoy listening to all kinds daily. Quality is pretty important to me and I love it when a song can fully immerse me. I listen to many different genres ranging from alternative/rock to electronic/ambient. I currently own a pair of Grado SR 60i's right now and they do the trick for casual listening but I feel like I could be getting more. I did some reading and based on some reviews I picked out some new headphones along with some peripherals to enhance my listening experience. I would really appreciate it if you fellas would weigh in on my choices and let me know if I am making the right decision with my purchase.
Headphones- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042A8CW2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Sound card- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TMZ1BK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Amp/DAC- http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VO7LG6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A13BNE3P7C8THK
Is there anything I am missing? Something I am skimping on? Will the headphones suit my needs(in a head-fi article I read that 598's were great for gaming as well)?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VO7LG6
which model do you have? I was looking at getting the Fiio E10.
actually, you don't use a subwoofer. That's for your ears. A buttkicker is for your chair to increase immersion. Take the audio from the game and send it to an amp that powers a device that turns the low frequencies into vibration rather than sound.
Budget version: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002ZPTBI/ref=pd_cp_0_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJXA2YJ27WEMSPYSWB7S
and the amp:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_cp_0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BJXA2YJ27WEMSPYSWB7S
If you have the money, this also works and they have an even better one for a lot more money.
https://www.amazon.com/ButtKicker-Mini-Subwoofer-Home-Theater/dp/B0052AXFKK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469580568&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=buttkicker
Don't forget that this one also needs an amp.
Now getting the audio from the game to the kicker can be a problem depending on your system. If you run into problems, you'll want the audio software called VoiceMeeter. Free(donateware -it's worth it).
I have a simple cheap setup that i use for VR flight and racing sims. It provides a nice rumble, granted it's not as precise as something like simvibe but it gets the job done.
i have the following hardware:
Then i just use voicemeeter banana to sort out the audio. - https://www.vb-audio.com/Voicemeeter/banana.htm
I take the headphone/soundcard audio + VR HMD audio and route it to the voicemeeter virtual VAIO device, and make that the default audio device in windows. Also, I limit the bass frequencies on the output that goes to the amp/shakers using Voicemeeter EQ.
Hey, that's what I've got! It sounds great. Perfect for an apartment. Lepai makes an amp with a 68 watt subwoofer ouput. Get that and a passive subwoofer and you've got a pretty bangin custom 2.1 setup.
http://www.amazon.com/ANV-515-Passived-Sub-Woofer-Speaker-Silver/dp/B005CKN00U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_e_7?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0HC0W7NCWY0AQB7RQVDW
Hi, I need help to power my new headphones (ath m50x's). I have the Lepai LP-168HA amp ( https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO ) for my speakers and have that connected to another sub woofer amp. I was wondering if there was a cord that would go from the speaker out that the amp has to an female aux cord. If more details are needed. Ask away, can also provide pictures if need be. Thanks!
No idea what you just asked me to do lmao.
I take the subwoofer audio out that's supposed to go into the computer and plug in splitters instead of a cable?
What do I do with the cable? How do I use that with an amp? :S
EDIT: Using this amp btw, http://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO
I was going to use something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-168HA-40-Watt-Amplifier-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523319607&amp;sr=8-21&amp;keywords=two+channel+sub+amp
That should work, right?
What are you going to be connecting them to? A PC? TV?
You definitely need an amplifier/receiver, but what kind of equipment you use will depend on the audio outputs available on the device you'll be connecting them to. These are probably about the cheapest amplifiers that will support two speakers and a subwoofer, and they work well as long as you don't crank the volume up past 70-80%, but you'll need to be able to provide the audio signal through either a 3.5mm TRS (headphone) plug, or red and white RCA plugs. If you want audio from an HDMI source, you'll have to spend more (probably ~$100 minimum) for an AV receiver.
Several options.
You can buy a regular stereo amplifier and a subwoofer plate amplifier. Most sub plate amps have high frequency pass-thoughts so you put it between the stereo and the speakers to extract the lows.
You can buy a 2.1 plate amp. This way you can skip the amp on your desk for a cleaner look. They tend to be much more expensive for the wattage though.
Or if you want to try something more DIY you can try a 2.1 desk amp. Just pick the transformer/ power supply, a box, knobs, power and audio plugs. 1 2
You can also just buy premade 2.1 desk amps but I can't speak for the quality of chinese made amps. 1 2 3
I suggest just buying the Lepai LP-168HA
I'm getting ready to order a set of Micca MB42x and for the sake of future proofing for a sub was planning on using this amp. Most of these subs appear to be powered though, what does the setup look like when using powered and non powered components? Would I set the speakers up as usual then set up the sub separately?
How about this one? Looks like it's 40w x 2.
http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417038573&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=amplifier
I'm hoping to spend absolutely as little as possible to get the speakers working.
Wow thanks for the quick reply much appreciated! Yeah Elite is one of the main reasons for getting this. I already have a DK2 and HOTAS so this is kind of the cherry on top for immersion lol. I don't know a whole lot about sound but I am above average with computers and quite handy with tools so I'm sure I will get it all going nicely. Thanks again for your advice I think it has pointed me in the right direction. A couple more questions though;
How important is the crossover? I'm looking at this one here http://www.amazon.ca/Lepai-2x40W-Amplifier-1x68W-Output/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417740400&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Lepai+LP-168HA it's a little more but has a built in crossover, and some extra power, worth it?
My soundcard driver panel has an LFE crossover frequency thing outlined here http://www.manualslib.com/manual/414988/Asus-Xonar-Dsx.html?page=40 maybe this is enough and I don't need to spend the extra money on the other amp? Not that the few extra bucks will make or break it for me. Thoughts?
I have the Xonar DGX soundcard and I only use Headphones if that makes any difference in what to get or how to set it up.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU
My favorite ddin until the current excelon stuff.
To drive headphones you'll need a USB DAC and a headphone amp. For $100 you're probably looking at a combination unit. The Schiit Fulla 2 fits into your budget.
You could also consider the Fiio E17K.
If you sit far from your console you'll also need a long cable!
I had been looking at this [Sony](http://www.Sony.com/ XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sqJEAbGVBM331) unit on Amazon until I heard the new kenwood and jvc models will support wireless Android auto. Those were announced at CES last month.
I actually ended up going with a $15 phone mount :p definitely still considering upgrading in the future though
My eyes are still set on this slick little number here.
I saw this on sale today, apparently works great with carplay, check it out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_0nuvzb86JX9GK
Android Auto/Apple CarPlay headunits are out there. yeah, it does suck to have to consider buying one to replace Toyota's Headunit right out of the gate. But hey at least you have the option.
Sony makes a really good one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nutTybC5BGJBD
But it clocks in at $500.
Really wish Toyota would throw their bullshit entune system out. Unless you are Porsche, all infotainment systems I've seen are ugly, slow and looks like it was programmed in the early days of the internet.
i am having the Sony delivered today:
https://smile.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501081891&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sony+android+auto
I'm digging the interface on the Sony units. Anyone have any experience with them? Looking at this one particularly: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500478091&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=sony+head+unit
Hey guys, I recently got my first pair of "nice" headphones (Sennheiser 598 Cs) and was looking into getting a DAC/amp for them to use with my PC. I know this isn't specifically about headphones, but are there any good DAC/amp combos you would recommend?
Budget is ~$100, but any suggestions are welcome. My only caveat is it needs to have an AUX In port so I can route my mic through for reference audio. I've been looking at this one, but I have no experience in this area.
I started with this
Sony XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HfZNBb13XS1Q1
Then bought this (in black)
http://www.jassperformance.com/shop/2DIN_Adapter_Stainless
And finally got these, so I can put it back to stock after:
https://www.carid.com/american-international/aftermarket-radio-wiring-harness-with-oem-plug-mpn-mwh856.html?singleid=16758971&amp;url=78706468
Put that all together and you have a modern looking and sounding navigation system in your NA I don’t know about you, but I had been using a cassette adapter, and this is a big upgrade. All it takes it a little soldering and stuffing wires away.
huh. that sounds so much simpler than my Taurus was lol.
I'm probably going to be replacing the stock radio at some point anyway with this: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ which probably also won't have a trip computer lol.
But in the meantime, It'd be nice to have. Maybe I can just buy a stock radio with the trip computer already active and slip it in.
$110, so dead on budget. But, unsurprisingly for a portable, it only has line out and headphone out. So same features as e.g. the $67 SMSL SD793-II. I really want a usable volume knob -I'm unfortunately using an Alessis RA-100 and, as I'm sure you can imagine, having a knob for each channel is a huge pain in the arse outside of a studio environment.
I have a Fiio Alpen 2 that is supposed to work on OTG for digital transfer of the music to the DAC/AMP (which is how I use in on my PC) but I've never got that function to work. It comes with a short headphone jumper cable though. Has plenty of power for my ATH-M50x's which are 38 ohms, the Crushers appear to be 32 so it would work well.
My best use of it has been with a tablet so my wife and I can watch a movie on planes with a splitter cable. The battery is good for 10+ hours on a charge.
That would work perfectly. That way you aren't running the signal through two amp circuits.
Another option would be to go with a Fiio E17K, which has a 3.5mm line out which you could hook up to your speakers. It's smaller and more geared towards being portable, but I use the original E17 and it sounds great.
So, the install parts you listed in your initial response are standard for any vehicle and any stereo? I looked at Crutchfield, but their stereos seemed to be much more than Amazon's, although they may have included the install components. I'll have to look into that. Thank you for that very important heads up!
I found the perfect stereo, although it's quite a bit more than I'd prefer to spend: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
So, I went to Crutchfield and utilized their tool to input the things most important to me, and this is what I came up w/:
I've never heard of Axxera before. Frankly, just looking at these units, I'm more likely to go w/ the Kenwood or the Pioneer that we were talking about earlier, although I do like the idea that the Axxera's have detachable face-plates.
Budget is 100$. Headphones are ATH-M50xWH. Looking for a USB DAC for my Galaxy S5. Any help is greatly appreciated. I've been looking at these which are a little over the budget but I might be able to swing it. I love bass but I don't want it to distort or silence/quiet any treble.
I went a seperate route.
Once I got my speakers (w/ receiver), I bought a Fiio E17k AMP/DAC and a bluetooth adapter.
I plug the bluetooth adapter into the input on my AMP/DAC, and connect my receiver to the output from my AMP/DAC. Works great for playing music from any bluetooth device. I also have the AMP/DAC plugged into my PC via USB to use as a soundcard, and just have to hit the input button on the AMP/DAC to switch from AUX(bluetooth) to USB(computer).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GPV7AH4/ref=s9_dcbhz_bw_d0_g23_i1_sh
This is a super basic amp and portable. You may also want a DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) as well assuming it's for a desktop computer setup.
This should be a decent intro level DAC/Amp combo: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A2QLPJM/ref=s9_hps_bw_g23_i2
I went with a Creative Sound Blaster. It replaced my broken headphone jack and improved audio. Just don't use the software. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004275EO4/ref=s9_hps_bw_g147_i16
And I also have this Fiio for using my Sennheiser HD280s at work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RPD7KP8?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
I'm not sure where you are getting 27 CAD. On Amazon.ca it's $178 CAD... https://www.amazon.ca/FiiO-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8. Anyways if you can get it for that price why not go for that?
Should I get the Fiio E17k DAC/Headphone amp or would I be better off going with something else? I'm looking for a dac with a headphone amp for no more than $100. I would like it to be portable and have an aux in. Is this my best option or should I go with something else?
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481228769&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=e17k
As far as quality brands go, the only detachable touchscreen I can think of is the 4200nex at quite the premium. Not sure if any cheaper ones with a detachable face are out there. If you remove that requirement you can easily pick one up for less than $200.
Keep in mind you'll also need this, this, and this. You'll also lose steering wheel controls if you have them, so you'll need something like this just to keep them.
Looking for something more portable so the E09k might not work but through the Amazon questions I came across the Fiio E17K ALPEN 2 USB DAC Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RPD7KP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xcNHzbAVTGQE2
Might try this option.
For the head unit I used a Pioneer 4200nex (this head unit is pretty much the same as the 8200nex(which is the top of the line head unit) but without the navigation. There really isn't a need for that feature since this head unit supports Android Auto and Apple Car Play, they both use their own maps)
For the dash kit I used the ADS MUS1 Radio Installation Kit (if you decide to go with this kit, the wire harness is already included inside the box)
Then I used the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR module so they would all communicate with each other, that also took care of the A/C, steering wheel controls and will also connect to the ODB2.
I did not install this myself, but the installer told me that it wasn't too difficult, and it was his first time installing this kit/radio into a mustang.
I love it!!! It was worth the all the money I spent!
edit: if you have anymore questions, feel free to ask :)
What about the Pioneer AVH4200NEX? You gotta remember, I'm a computer guy, so I know nothing about car parts.
I ended up getting the AVH-4200NEX and using the extra cash to install and wire up a backup camera. Enjoy your gold!
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-4200NEX-Multimedia-Receiver-Touchscreen/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
> 4200nex
is this the one you got?
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH4200NEX-Receiver-Motorized-Bluetooth/dp/B01D6HPMZQ
Sup Fam,
I currently own this amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17K-ALPEN-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00RPD7KP8
Is there a way to use this such that I can connect it to a CRT and get in game sound?
If you got the Schiit Magni 2 you definitely need an amp because it only has RCA input. Most people get the Schiit Modi 2 with it, hence why they call it a Schiit stack. The Schiit combo isn't very mobile at all.
If you are looking for something to also use with a phone as well as on the laptop I would suggest the Fiio E17k or if you just want a laptop setup (for like working in an office) you could consider the Schiit Fulla 2.
I wouldn't worry too much about trying to find the "perfect" amp because most $100+ amps will be more than enough to power most headphones. Your computer
is technically enough to power them though it would sound much better through an amp/DAC combo (either as a single unit or separate amp and DAC units).
Hi there,
from personal experience I'd recommend the Sennheiser ie80 ($200 USD) with the Fiio E17K ($100 USD). :)
Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.
This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:
Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T
AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF
Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP
Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ
StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X
This was what I was running before I purchased a receiver: LP2020A+ Amp and Dayton Audio B652
This is only 2.0, but it sounded great and it was less than $100.
You would most likely need something like this if you plan on getting a passive subwoofer, or this if you plan on running a powered subwoofer.
I highly recommend anyone new to home audio head over to /r/zeos and then /r/hometheater
Cool, so it's nice that you have both types of input. The "line in" jack and the four coax guys can be used independently. Therefore if you liked the small amp form factor you could get something like this, or go scrounge a thrift store for a larger unit.
I was in the market for a new computer speaker setup, and rather than go with a pre-built kit like the ProMedia 2.1 I decided to buy piece by piece.
I picked up a pair of the Micca MB42X's and this amp.
My question is... 1)How's the amp I picked and 2) How will it sound without a subwoofer? I plan on buying one but wanted to wait until I have more funds.
Also if anyone can recommend a decent lower priced sub to go with this I would really appreciate it!
Yes. Oops. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z87YO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478404297&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX280_SY350_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=2.1+amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41HAXZahetL&amp;ref=plSrch
What information are you looking for? I run four of these hooked up to this. I'm getting ready to hit the sack but if you can provide me with specific questions I can try my best to answer in the morning!
You need an amplifier. I use an Aura bass shaker with a cheap amplifier. Just match the watt ratings approximately.
Edit: also look at Voicemeeter if you want to duplicate an audio signal to two different outputs.
This setup is amazingly cheap ($80 to $90) and powerful...
http://amzn.com/B0002ZPTBI
http://amzn.com/B0070Z87YO
http://amzn.com/B003TUMDWG
All it takes is one to make a huge difference. Great with headphones on.
Where I found the stereo lacked in my 12 WRX hatch, was the bass.
I put a 12 inch Rockford Fosgate in the trunk, and let the speakers only run mids and highs. It has improved the stereos sound greatly and didn't break the bank too badly.
The only thing I don't "like" about my MKVII is that it didn't come with a sub. How was your experience? Did you do it yourself or have a shop do it? What sub unit did you put in? I'm 99.9% sold on This one
but I was going to have a local car audio place install it because I hate the idea of screwing something up or having loose, rattling panels (from being removed and reinstalled) in my brand new car.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518320964&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rockford+powered+sub
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518321247&amp;sr=8-13&amp;keywords=ofc+amp+kit
There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.
Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.
Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.
What do I need to buy to make this subwoofer work with my mixer?
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1563244767&refinements=p_89%3ARockford%2BFosgate&s=car&sr=1-1&th=1
I own this already but it's in my car & I might be able to salvage the cables used I don't think that's all I'll need?
edit: I see that it has an amp built in so I've got that covered but I still need a way to power it.
edit 2: I successfully removed all the cables from my car (what a fucking task that was). So I've got all that.
I ordered a P300 by Rockford Fosgate about a year ago. It's a powered enclosure and not a separate amp + subwoofer.
I had it installed at a local Radio Active and they tapped into the factory amp. It hits well enough honestly. I find I don't need a crazy amount of bass for small hatchbacks. I probably should have mounted it to the side because it does take up quite a bit of trunk space.
If you are considering the OEM Kicker setup, I'd look at the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt instead.
Rockford fosgate 12 in powered sub
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462394225&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+12+in+powered+sub
Also I replaced the front speakers with the same brand. Kept everything else stock
Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV
Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha
Yes, everything still applies. I did not cover power and ground installation of the actual amp wiring kit, just the proper way to get your audip signal to your amp an sub. I'm using a powered subwoofer as well, a Rockford Fosgate P300-12.
While not necessary, its always s good practive to run your amps main power line from the battery down one side of the car, and the audio signal from your radio down the other side. This helps to eliminate the possibility of introducing DC frequency noise into your audio signal.
Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure
So if I purchased it on Amazon do they normally come with everything needed to install it? Or do they just normally assume that you have all of the wires/adapters already?
100 has Android Auto AND Apple CarPlay. Also has a 6.4" screen versus 6.2". The 1000 can have Sat Radio added. The 100 cannot. If you've got an iPhone and want the USB up front, then go for the 1000.
And even though your budget doesn't include the head unit, I'd still recommend that Key amplifier. Start with that. Head unit and amp. See how you like it. If you decide you want more bass after that, we can talk amp and sub. Maybe something like this?
youll need around $100 for install so youre looking more at around $200 for the rest.
check Craigslist first and see if you can find a sub and amp. check the sidebar for recommended brands and stay away from cheap stuff like Boss, Pyramid, Pyle, Rockville etc..
another option is to buy sub+amp sets. like this Rockford Fosgate. something like this wont rattle the block but itll sound good in your car.
i have this sub in a 98 extended cab. takes up quite a bit of space. i can post pictures if you would like.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=twister_B00A8F4TAY?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Do you not have the phone slot in the middle arm rest to stick your phone?
As for the sound system, I added a 12" powered Rockford Fostgate sub and it's night and day. Cost around $200 total and it sounds waaaaay better and has a quick release harness to easily pop the box out if I want the trunk room back.
I won't ever go back to not having an amp and sub. It really adds so much depth that the stock stereo lacked. It really makes everything sound better, podcasts, country, EDM.
This is the sub I bought.
I've never had a sub in my car, but I never knew what I was missing either. If you can afford the trunk space and like your music loud, I recommend it.
Thanks for all the responses guys. Definitely loving this subreddit, great community to be a part of. So I decided on a two-way speaker set up with a sub/amp enclosure for the trunk, and eventually in place of the soft top with a little fabrication. Speakers, sub, plus some speaker baffles and 8 gauge wire kit for the sub. I'll make sure to post a follow up, once everything's fine tuned.
edit - words
I decided to go with these speakers and this sub
I would just get an fm modulator or swap for aftermarket. A decent radio is less than $75.
You're gonna get a lot of hate for the brands you have there. You really get what you pay for with car audio and that amplifier is more likely to set your car on fire than it is to power those subs. As far as that head unit go with something like this instead.
I don’t suggest an FM transmitter. I used one for the past 2 years and you lose a lot of quality and sometimes they cut in/out, get static, etc.
Just get a new stereo. Here is an example of a unit under $50. Go through crutchfield.com and get the wiring harness and dash kit for free or discounted (it was free for my car)
If you can follow simple instructions (sent from crutchfield for your exact car) and you know how to match colors together you can install it yourself.
what about this one? Amazon Link
Edit: So yes/no all I need to do is decide on a receiver and I'm all set?
You could also look at swapping out the stereo deck in your car. Of course, it is easier and more straightforward with some makes/models than others.
example deck
I can't recommend getting a new head unit enough. I drove an '02 GP for about four years, popped a new head unit in and it worked great. You don't even need a chime module.
https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526319558&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=head+unit
Apparently I was wrong...In my cart it says Pioneer is selling it but on the actual page it says Audio Watt Store is selling it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091V0A9U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
DAC: Schiit Modi
Crossover/DSP: Mini DSP 2x4
Powered Speakers: Emotiva Airmotiv 6S
Subwoofer: Polk PSW10
Headphones, open/inside: Sennheiser HD650
Headphones, bassy/portable: V-Moda M100
Headphones, IEM: Echobox Finder X1
Portable headphone amp: Fiio E07K
Bedroom speakers: Emotiva Airmotiv 4S (6S was the upgrade for the main setup)
If you're wondering what a DAC is, it's the processor that converts the digital music to waveform before it gets to the amp. Your sound card usually does this job, but you can spend $30-2300 on getting better sound - Behringer UCA202 for improvement over on-board sound to Schiit Yggdrasil for deep pockets.
Edit: Car: Audison bit.ten, Alpine PDX amps, Hertz HSK 165XL component speakers (4x100w), Image Dynamics IDMax12 subwoofer(1x1200w)
Fiio E10K at $75 or the E07K at $89
Both offer excellent performance.
If you want something decent to go with your headphones, get a FiiO DAC/Amp combo. I have the E07K and it's great with my old FA's and my new DT 770s
I've been thinking about buying a pair of semi quality headphones for a while now. The DT770 seems like the best choice for it's price but I'm very new to all of this so I don't really understand most of this stuff.
Budget: Around 250€, but for a good reason I can up it a bit.
Source: PC only. Probably.
Isolation: I'll use them solely at home so not too necessary. Though it would be great if it blocked out my roommates voice(from the next room) if we're in the same voice chat.
Type: Full-size.
Balance: A bit of bass is alright but I'd like them balanced.
Past headphones: Some cheap <50€ stuff..
Preferred Music: Any and everything.
So unless you guys have so brilliant ideas I think I'm going with the DT770, but I'd need some advice with the amplifiers. A friend of mine suggested the FiiO E07K but since I'll almost definitely will use it only on my desktop would something like E09K be a better choice? Like I said, I'm fucking clueless when it comes down to these so all help is appreciated.
Links for clarity:
E07K
E09K
Or both?
Thanks in advance.
This USB DAC Amp has worked wonders for me.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
A DAC/AMP combo will make a huge difference. I have almost the same headphones as you at work, and love my Aune T1 http://i.imgur.com/O9cVWal.jpg . I listen about 4 hours a day so it was a worth while investment for me at $200. I put a better Genalex Gold Lyon tube in it for $35 too. Sounds incredible, can't belive what I was missing.
A Fiio EO7K would be about half that at $89. Portable, pretty good sound but you really got to crank it with my DT990s.
Aune T1 - http://www.amazon.com/Aune-T1-Generation-Amplifier-Decoder/dp/B00A2QJMRY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411543816&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Aune+t1
Fiio EO7K -http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1411543301&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=E07k
Oops, I meant E07k, which is a DAC&AMP, not the E09K. But anyway..
Pe 50€ non esiste nulla di decente nuovo. Se quello è il tuo budget prova a orientarti sull'usato: personalmnte consiglio delle soundistick II/III. In seguito valuta anche l'acquisto di una scheda audio esterna come questa
I received them 2 hours ago. The HFI 780s are uncomfortable as fuck. I usually wear my headphones 8 hours a day so even if I liked them, I would not keep them. However, I don't like the way they sound. They are too "neutral" and not as punchy as the DT 770 Pros. The 770 Pros are so comfortable, you almost forget you are wearing them.
I have a 5 year old mainboard and the soundcard is probably bad. I have been listening to a lot of songs and they aren't loud enough.
People recommend the Fiio E07K for them. What's your opinion on this?
Mostly just a question at the end. Asked and got advice on the topic before.
Budget: $300 +- 50
Source: PC, Sometimes HTC One M8
Requirements for isolation: None
Preferred Types of Headphones: Fully over the ear.
Preferred Tonal Balance: No clue really
Past Headphones: Bose qc15
Preferred Music: Listen to mostly alternative rock, some trap.
Location: US
QUESTION: So i found HD650s on ebay all around the price of 350 used. It is a little out of my budget but my last headphones lasted me 3 years so i dont mind the price. First question is do NEED an amp to use them, or can i just use my computer/phones output. Second question: is that price ok and do i have anything to worry about, should i just buy new HD598s? If i do need an amp or some other equipment what should i look up so i know what im doing/getting into. I have no clue what amps or anything else do/are. Saw this 2-1 on the reccomended page plus it looks like something i could carry around if i did want to bring them places :http://www.amazon.com/E07K-Andes-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6 , is this all i would need if i got the HD650's?
Edit: also are the HD598's outdated? I remember seeing them when i was looking at my bose qc15s
Edit2: Ok just looked up what Amps and DACs are and feel fine getting one, is the one linked above ok for now? Also do amps and dacs require an input that i would need prior knowlege too or are the settings easy to figure out
I got the black because those are the ones I wanted for the longest time and they match my setup nicely, but the ones you got do look pretty sweet. Right now I'm torn, between which DAC/Amp to get that fits within my price range. Right now, I'm looking at the Audioquest Dragonfly USB DAC or the Fiio E07K Andes USB DAC and Portable Headphone Amp.
USB OTG works for my setup.
.
Nexus 5 (Stock/Rooted) > USB OTG to USB Adapter > USB Type A to Type B Mini Cable
> Fiio E07K Andes USB DAC Headphone Amp > Audio-Technica ATH-M50x.
There's always this:
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
Is this the E07K + E09K combo? (http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417724915&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=fiio+e7 + http://www.amazon.com/E09K-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=pd_sim_e_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0H50ZT2069A3FRNX3AXW ?)
If so... Do they come with original packaging? I'm assuming 8-9/10 cosmetic condition and 10/10 functionality?
Thanks for the reply :D I currently have a Creative Sound Blaster Z in my PC at the moment. I didn't know a huge amount about sound cards or how they improve audio quality when I bought it, just that it did improve sound and that I loved (and desperately needed) the audio control panel and how easy it is to switch between speakers/headphones. So I guess I have that going for me. And when I say $60, I mean that's what I have in my pocket at the moment that I'd feel comfortable spending, not my be-all end-all budget. Now that I think about it, I'd much rather wait and save up instead of getting something that I'll inevitably replace with something better. I've learned and learned and learned not to cheap out on audio equipment. Do you imagine I'd see enough improvement with the E07 and my phone to be worth it, or do you think I should eventually get a dedicated music player as well? I plan to get a desktop amp later on, I just feel like my mobile music rig could be greatly improved. :)
Looking for a dac/amp for the HD598's, currently looking at the Fiio E10K or Fiio E07K
Budget - Under £100
Source - PC, maybe a Galaxy Tab but for now looking for something for home use
Location - UK/England
I'm fairly new to this stuff and just trying to get the most out of my current headphones
Something like this might fit your bill, but I can't guarantee it'll work with the Nex5X.
I'm new to headphones, dacs, and amps and I had a couple of questions. Can I use something like this headset adapter to combine my headphones and modmic into 1 audio cable going to this dac&amp? I'm trying to reduce the amount of cables I have to run to my computer which is in a closet in my home theater room where I play a few games, stream videos, and watch blu rays. Also, can I add a USB 3.0 hub before the dac&amp? The hub would be helpful if I want to get away from my wireless keyboard and mouse. My plan is for this to all go into an armrest space in my recliner and just have one USB cable going to my desktop about 8 feet away. I'm completely open to other ideas to accomplish this if this sounds terrible.
I have 2 cards. I have a portable usb amp/dac, i just select it as output in mate, and good to go. My fiio usb/amp/dac works to drive a more power hungry headphones and has no laptop noise.
Plus with it being USB, it just shows up as an audio card in linux and works with my phone line in when I'm traveling also.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/
I have an older one that cost a tad more, but newer models came down in price.
I recommend this guy. Low noise floor, and also can be used as an amp. Just plug it into your usb port and you're good to go! But, this could be something for the future because it's at least an extra 70 bucks depending on the current price.
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
Oppo-PM3 vs Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro 80 ohm?>
http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6
And would this amp be enough?
Which would be better for listening to hip hop and punk?
The Oppo-PM3 is retail (400) and I can get the DT 770 off Amazon for $150.
Fiio E10k is another good option, or their portable E07K.
Coming up a little bit, you can get the Dragonfly also.
EDIT: Sorry, updated to amazon UK instead of US.
Nice sound setup. I have a pair of ATH-A700X's and I just ordered the Fiio E07k yesterday. I'm new to the audiophile world, so I have been using my motherboard sound card for months with these cans, which is apparently not a good idea. Can't wait to try them out on something that will actually make them worth while.
What about this:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Andes-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=pd_cp_ce_1
It's the new E7. Only 7 pounds more than E10.
About the loudness, I can order them from Amazon, try them, if the sound isn't vastly improved, I will just return them.
Budget - Flexible ~$175. Not going for something high-end
Source - Laptop - Gigabyte P34Gv2. I don't have an amp, but would be open to suggestions alongside headphones (separate budget for amp - ~$90 looking at the Fiio E07k portable)
Requirements for Isolation - Not too much leakage - I live in a dorm
Preferred Type of Headphone - Over-ear
Preferred tonal balance - Bass is the main focus, but still somewhat balanced
Past headphones - AT M40x
Preferred Music - Mainly electronic (dubstep, DnB, trap) but also some Alternative
I've been interested in getting the 598's, but I've read that they may not have the best bass (and are open headphones).
Also looked at the DT770's, but
I would suggest you pickup a FiiO E07K. It's a great DAC and you can pick one up on Amazon for $89 here: http://www.amazon.com/E07K-Andes-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1368643467&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fiio+e07k
This is what I use to power my headphones. It will have plenty of power for those ATH-M50s.
There's currently a Fiio E07K going on amazon for £50, I'd grab that asap if I were you, direct link here, or search ebay. DACs are a difficult thing to get right under £50 because, generally, you have to start looking at unknown brands or models. If head-fi doesn't have a thread on it, I'm always wary :P
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: this
|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Germany|amazon.de|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
This is the most expensive e-series, but I think they're 15 in? So maybe I should go with the 12 inch one here? and for the amp you think I should get this?
Final thoughts on everything? I'll be putting them in a 1998 camry and presumably paying you to design me a box
I've read about that auto leveling, it didn't seem to save the stock sub lol. (Though I think it blew when I was in an accident and got hit right in the driver-side rear.. they told me it was because I had the punch maxed out) Also, I don't really need it to go loud, so the stock sub was never a problem; I barely put it over 20-25 and it's loud enough for me and the wife.
I was looking at amps and it seems like they are around $150-250, but I would have no clue which one to get, that wouldn't blow all the speakers/be enough to power the sub. Any suggestions? I have wire schematics for taking apart the connectors going to the stock amp, so I wouldn't be opposed to just doing an in-place upgrade if I can for this price range.
And, looking at cheaper amps just for the sub, couldn't I get one of these two? Again, I know nothing, but I feel like I could use the existing wiring from the head to the amp by cutting the sub wires out of the connectors on the stock amp and connecting them to the output wires that run to the sub. Then I can cut the connector off in the trunk, put those 4 wires into a high level connector for whichever amp, and then run power separately. Then, with the sub amp in the trunk, I can run wires from it to the sub in whatever form necessary (IE, the BOSS one below gives 600w when bridged, so I would literally wire it as I am now)
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512081314&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-R1002-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNKI/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512081314&amp;sr=1-16&amp;keywords=subwoofer%2Bamplifier&amp;th=1
Is my thought process in the right direction, or am I way out in left field?
EDIT: Also, couldn't I use an LC2iB in the trunk to hook up another amp to the pre-existing wiring without bypassing the stock amp? They seem to be about $90, and if I can get an amp specifically for the sub for $50-60, I'd be okay with the $150 range
I haven't actually bought a LOC yet, going to in the next couple days, just pulling some of the wire into the vehicle, and mounting the amp. Still wanting on the sub to arrive.
Also, I'd prefer not to have to pull the head unit either, becomes much more of a pain in the ass. If I can just tap off one, or 2 rear speakers that would be ideal. I just don't know much about it.
EDIT: Another reason i had not bought a LOC yet, is my Amp has a jack where you can input High Level Inputs from my speakers. Although someone had suggested getting a LOC.. Is that really necessary, if one is basically built in?
Heres the amp
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=pe_386430_195257150_TE_dp_1
No experience with their speakers, but I like their head units. Better sound quality than Pioneer and Kenwood at their respective price points, just without some of the stupid useless features (looking at you, Pioneer). Their amplifiers are good as well, but they're a bit overpriced (Rockford Fosgate is my go-to brand for amps).
Rockford Fosgate offers a 500 watt (RMS, not peak) Class-D amp for under $150 on Amazon. I push a sealed 12 with it in my Explorer. Plenty of bass, for me at least. And it's clean. Link
I don't advise you use either of those amps. If you can spend ~150, get the Rockford R500x1d. I have the R500-1D and it is one of the better amps I've had. Also, the Boss amp being a Class A/B, would do all typesof wonders on your electrical
I thought I had hyperlinked the equip names to amazon links in the OP i missed the RF amp I guess. I think my plan is gonna be rather than build the p2 a ported box, since I already have someone waiting to buy it, i'll go ahead and either sell it with the RF amp and just get to work on figuring out this whole new "ported" thing (i've built 5 or 6 sealed boxes for myself and others, never looked into the science of building ported boxes much. i know I've got some reading to do) start on the new box and rewiring, buy the dayton (from what you wrote and what've i've found comparing them I can't justify the price difference with the IDQ12) and something like that NVX after I look around a bit more at amps.
The other option is selling him the p2 in the box, and using the R500X1D to drive the dayton - the driver is rated at 700rms and the birth sheet on this amp said 684 watts so I'm sure it can push it well enough until I can put aside enough play money for a bigger amp.
Actual Power output is one. That Boss says 1100 watts on it, but I remember someone (Steve Meade?) put it on the amp dyno and it really only put out ~250 watts. Boss over-inflates their numbers.
Sure you can get the kicker set you linked, they are some of kickers lower line, each sub only rated for 250 watts RMS. For two 15s in a box, you get what you pay for.
For those kickers, I would recommend this amp https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524364575&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+r500x1d
Its a bit more in price than the boss, but relativity cheap when it comes to good, reputable amps.
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416351284&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+500+watt+amp
Go D-series. Sound quality/range is worth the price. I just upgraded from an 1100 Boss Monoblock to this Rockford Fosgate amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539818799&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=rockford+fosgate+d+amp and couldn't be happier. I'm only powering one 10" sub, but unless you're trying to wake up the neighbors it should suffice.
Edit: If you aren't planning to shell out for a nicer amp, just keep the one you have. I ran my Boss 1100 for about a year powering 2 Kicker 10" subs (same setup you have there) with no issues, and it could go LOUD. Run it, see how it sounds.
Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0
is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP
these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY
And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR
Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4
I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me
I'm so sorry for bugging you but should I send back the fosgate amp for the one you linked? Or will it not matter much or at all with those daytons. Just wondering since the fosgate was 30 dollars more than the one you linked, what the difference would be between the amps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_D7vnzbTTEKNZR
Don’t listen to him.... save an extra $50 and get a Rockford Prime amp.
It’ll do rated power and won’t start a fire.
For your sub amp, I recommend a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D or something similar in the 500 watt RMS range. You could go a little bigger for the amp but those subs are only rated at 250 watts each. The 1200 watt rating is a marketing ploy.
Are you only looking to upgrade your mids and not highs? I strongly recommend going with a component set like the Morel Maximo 6's. I'm assuming you want a set of mids for the back doors? If so you could get the coax version of those Morel Speakers for the rear doors.
As far as headunits go, pick something from a big name brand (Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood etc.) that fits your connectivity requirements(bluetooth? CDs? USB?) and has RCA outputs for at least 4 channels(front and sub) preferably 6(front, rear, and sub).
Do you have your wiring figured out? If not, make sure you factor the cost of wiring into your budget. Looking at about $100 - $150 for wiring depending on brands/size.
Edit: Keep in mind that while purchasing products from Amazon is cheaper, it will not usually get you a warranty so if stuff breaks or doesn't work out of the box, Rockford Fosgate or whoever the Manufacturer is most likely won't cover it or fix it.
Find an amp that does 300 watts at 4 ohms and you're good. A few examples: Rockford Alpine Rockville
So the amp will be seeing 2 ohms?
This will work well.
What's the RMS power of the JL sub? I would recommend this for the speakers and this for the sub. Rockford tends to underrate their amps so you would be getting quite a bit more power than what they're rated at and you can't beat it for the money.
Yep, if you want to stick to Rockford try this.
I got the Prime 500x1 and it’s pretty solid. Good sound and the spec sheet say it’s pushing over 600 watts. Seems like a good value for about $130...
Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NgG3Db1MM47Y2
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE
This the one?
I agree with the other commenter, don't go with that one. The good amps are CEA-2006 rated for the power they advertise. Other amps may say they can put out a certain power but it may not be true.
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This link is for a Rockford Fosgate (name brand) amp that puts out 300W+ RMS at 4 ohms. I have a RF 1200 watt amp and its birth sheet said it really is capable of 1250W of clean RMS power. If you get this one, it will have something similar, it may be certified for 520W (@ 2 ohms) or something, which would be over 300W RMS for 4 ohms.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67758_Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-R500X1D.html
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=car+audio+amplifier&qid=1555008509&s=gateway&sr=8-6
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This amp is Alpine, good brand, I've owned one in the past, but allows speaker level inputs if you need to do that.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_76304_Alpine-MRV-M500.html
This one is a Kenwood amp that also puts out 300W RMS, but it costs more than the RF and Alpine ones above
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_69691_Kenwood-KAC-5001PS.html
Hmmm...
Yea I was considering my options and I could get a single 600W RMS P3 12" (with nice ported box) for $179. Or I could get two P1 12" that are rated at 500W total RMS for $220-ish.
The first sub I'd never really be able to push to it's full potential with the amp I want. The Fosgate R500X1D is a sweet little amp for $120 bucks. It's rated at 500W RMS, but the certification sheet that comes with most of them is bench-rating them at 620-640 RMS. Now, I'd never want to push it more than 520W both for my cars sake, and for the amps sake, so the first single 600W sub option would never really be used to it's full potential.
The dual P1's I could probably make better use of that 520W was my thinking. 80W might make all the difference on that P3... I wish I could test both XD
The subs are 220 for a pair. The box is 140 or so. That's only 360. Two of these amps by Fosgate would be bad ass.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HYDE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462890345&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=Rockford+mono&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51LDCoHZllL&amp;ref=plSrch.
they are 125 each on amazon. That's only 510. Go to knukonceptz. Buy 4 gauge and rca cables and everything you need for install. Can't be more than 100 even with the best shit. That's 620 for something that will literally shut down anyone under 1000 bucks. Have fun
I wanted to give an update.
(http://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker-cs65-6-1-2-coaxial-speakers-with-polypropylene-woofer-cones-pair-black/7708042.p?skuId=7708042)
I'll be running the stock radio so I'm assuming everything installation related should be pretty self explanatory.
Am I missing anything?
hey, quick question. I'm looking at buying this subwoofer and amp. Would it work?
Parts list:
Woofa
Amp
ANL Fuse Holder
Ground Terminal
8AWG wire
Carpet
Combined with some wire I had on hand for the speaker and 12v connections - I like southwire for price/performance.
All connections crimped, soldered, and marine heatshrinked.
I tapped into an open KOEO fuse on the trunk's fusebox for the amp remote line. Unfortunately this means the sub turns on and off with the key, not the headunit, but I'm fine with that.
Wired the voice coils in parallel to end up with a 2ohm load.
Box internal volume is 10.5"x12"x18" - about 1.3 cubic feet. Image Dynamics recommends 1 cu. ft. in a sealed box, but 1.8 cu.ft. for "audiophiles" in a sealed box. I'm assuming that the audiophile in this case just means if we're going for only sq and not spl? I split the difference to end up with 1.3 cu. ft.
Running at 500w RMS it's pretty dang solid. Actually got off my butt and set the gain with a meter and 50Hz tone and not just by ear like I usually do.
My big challenge is that I need to figure out how to adjust or bypass the stock sub crossover from the OEM headunit/gateway. It's way too low, and I have a big ~40Hz hole in my bass. If anyone has insight as to how that works on the w211 Harmon Kardon system I'll be in your debt. Haven't dug into it yet.
Found one, turns on automatically with power from USB or cigaretter lighter from car ignition.
UK and US Amazon links:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GWGD26A/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Wireless-Bluetooth-Auto-Reconnect/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484852288&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=homespot
This isn’t a solution necessarily, but it may fix your speakerphone problem. I used to use AUX in my car before I found this little Bluetooth-AUX receiver. Plugs into both a cig lighter and your AUX, then every time you turn your car on your phone automatically connects to Bluetooth. Pretty handy, and works like a charm.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vsGIDbCXA7R6Z
I’d recommend also picking this up if you’re interested - it silences the weird static noise the BT receiver produces through the car speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4tGIDbQDWD06Q
I have used This one for about 2 years with no real issues. I have it connected to USB so it automatically turns on when the car turns on and for the most part my phone will automatically connect to it if Bluetooth is on. While playing the audio is great. If it's on and I have I connected and I'm not playing anything and my car audio is up kinda high, you can hear a little electromagnetic interference like a slight buzz and tick but that may be dirty power from my car so your mileage may vary, but it's fine, once you start playing something it totally goes away. My cigarette lighter is in the arm rest in between the 2 front seats so it stays hidden away.
I own both the mpow one and this one: https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-NFC-enabled-Wireless-Bluetooth-Auto-Reconnect/dp/B00G57CWZ8
This one is drastically better for me, but it's unfortunate that you lose the play/pause functionality.
I use this in my 2011 Outback. Works great. Unlike most the ones on Amazon it powers off with the car and doesn't have an internal battery, so it always connects back up automatically without fail. Only time I've had problems is if I toggle airplane mode on my phone, then I have to unplug it and plug it back in.
Edit: and the 2011 Outback has the same center console layout, so I just leave it plugged into DC and aux in the center and don't think about it.
HomeSpot NFC-enabled Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio with Bluetooth Auto-Reconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lnclzb257HXDY
I use basically this Homespot Bluetooth Audio receiver (car version)
It has nfc, auto-connect, etc and although some vehicles need a ground loop isolator mine doesn't because It's an oldish jeep and I'm playing through a cassette adapter. The avantree thing sounds nice.
Bought this about four years ago, paired it, put it in my center console and forgot it was there until a few weeks ago when the power cord stopped working.
For a second, I thought it was my cars Bluetooth that stopped working, and then I realized my car doesn't have Bluetooth.
Spend a couple of extra bucks and you'll appreciate the convenience.
LG Tone HBS 730
HomeSpot NFC-enabled Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver
Bluetooth Receiver BlueFit R1 Wireless Bluetooth 4.1
I don't like FM transmitters, but if you just need bluetooth and have a spare usb port in the car somewhere (even cigarette port adapter), something as simple as this works great.
https://www.amazon.com/Coodio-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speaker-Iphone/dp/B00HT07QXI/ref=sr_1_26?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484154135&amp;sr=1-26&amp;keywords=usb+aux+bluetooth+adapter
My car doesn't have bluetooth but it had a usb and aux port right next to one another in the arm rest and this way is hidden from sight in my case.
So I get your point, its frustrating when stuff doesn't work right. But have you tried the cable they are telling you that you need? If they tell you thats what it is, then tell them to get one and test it out before you pay for it. Seems pretty straight forward right?
For what its worth, I find these factory stereos to be so useless with tech. I had a VW that constantly froze on the Navigation screen if I had a phone call come in, and a Jeep that liked to randomly reject my phone too. For my Mini, I just bought a $10 Bluetooth adaptor off of Amazon, it plugs into the USB and a 3.5mm cord that's like 2 inches long from it plugs into the 3.5 port beside the USB. Bam, I put my phone in a cradle that is on the dash and I have instant Nav/Google Play/Android Auto/Music/ whatever without the bullshit or cords. Its like a nav screen, only I didnt have to pay like $2 grand for it. I get in my car and it instantly connects, every time.
Also just so you know, you might as well go out in your backyard and set your money on fire if you want to go the lawyer route. Again I get where you are coming from, and yes it should work, but they'll just blame it on the phone and theres no way you can prove its not the phones fault. If you read the fine print in your manual I bet it has language thats something along the lines of, "...will work with compatible smartphones," or something to that effect. All they have to do is say they dont guarantee compatibility with every phone and you are up shit creek.
Sorry for the response that's the length of a novel.
Edit: here's the link to the adaptor I bought. It took a month to get here, and youll have instant Bluetooth, won't even need the USB cord for the iPhone.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HT07QXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_SHwhAb1TX21YE
iphone and the iBooks app. Bluetooth headphones is a must. I can work out forever listening to a book. I listened to tom clancy red rabbit this morning for a 40 minute gym session.
I understand you don't like to bring your phone to the gym, but for me it's all about the convenience of one device. I don't even use my point and shoot camera anymore for the same reason, too many devices is too troublesome. Then you have to charge all the separate devices too. Same with my old trusty mp3 player, in college it was great but the phone does it all and more. Then when I get in my car, the phone connects to my cheapo bluetooth adapter and my phone keeps playing the same book. And believe me, if my phone had wireless earphones somehow, you bet I'd stop using the other one I have in a heartbeat.
> If it matches your battery, and the receiver works directly from the battery, you may have all you need.
I don´t have a Battery yet, that´s the main problem. I´m not sure what type of source I should get, or what I need.
> The charger should do that. If not, it's broken.
Well, the description of the charger Board I already ordered weeks ago isn´t saying anything about a protection. the title says only "Protection" without any context, so I don´t know. But I´ll probably order a Powerbank PCB, perhaps even with LCD Screen to be able to see the power usage, for this.
> If we bought the same one, yes. But we probably didn't, so do your own testing.
Well, I don´t actually think all these receivers are that different. I ordered one similar to this one .
https://www.amazon.com/Coodio-Bluetooth-Receiver-Speaker-Iphone/dp/B00HT07QXI
This, an off the shelf USB lighter adaptor and a cassette adapter make any car with a cassette player bluetooth capable for under $15. I don't have any regrets.
Without iDrive there is no audio over Bluetooth. You'll need a Bluetooth adapter. That particular one is powered by USB and then plugs in the AUX jack under the armrest. Just set your head unit to AUX and you're good to go. I've been using one since October of '17 and it works great.
You won't have steering wheel controls but in order to get that functionality you'd have to shell out close to $100 for a different model that's made specifically for BMWs.
here's (what looks like the same one) for 4.50
Order this. Less than $5 and it will give your car bluetooth. It turns on and off with the car, super slick.
There's a link on my blog page, but here it is.
If you're using a 12 V line you'll have to regulate it down to 5V, which isn't a huge deal except if you hunt around on the stereo board you're bound to find a 5V line somewhere to tap into. Godspeed!
Amazon has these that's usb powered. I have one for my older Kenwood head unit, it has a usb slot right next to the aux port, so it's perfect.
So the only caveat is that it doesn't route phone calls to the aux port from my HTC M8, just media audio.
No problem. The amp and sub are still around on amazon.
Subwoofer
Amplifier They have upped the wattage on the amp to 1600 now, be careful, that is close to the limit the sub can handle.
So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?
I had someone install it for me but it didn't take them more than 40 minutes or an hour. The guy placed it in the trunk on the bottom right and mounted the amp on the back of my rear seat. I haven't had any major rattling problems. Here's the sub and amp I used
BOSS Audio AR1500M Car Amplifier – 1500 Watts Max Power, 2/4 Ohm Stable, Class A/B, Monoblock, MOSFET Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S55ES6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ESDLBb74C7KN0
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUDLBb74CJYAE
My doors and radio are stock but I plan on getting different speakers in a year or so
Hope this helps a little
http://www.visions.ca/catalogue/category/Details.aspx?categoryId=54&amp;productId=21471&amp;sku=GMD8601
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=YQM6GA30AQPL&amp;coliid=I34PLZRDN6DOH0
Ok so 0 guage can be used for any wattage im assuming?
And what is your opinion on the sub i chose and this one?
I'm looking at a 2014 Mazda 6 Sport which has this dash. Looking to use this Pioneer head unit with this Metra dash kit. There's adapters so that I can keep the factory usb port and steering wheel controls. I'll probably spend the extra money buying the head unit from crutchfield for their customer support in case I need it. For speakers, I'm thinking Infinity Kappa's. I might fiberglass some tweeter pods for the sails, but if I'm feeling lazy, I'll just surface mount them to the stock sails. Gonna ignore the dash corners entirely (pretty bad speaker placement really, you can make it work with a dsp, but I don't want to spend that much....yet). I might go for a 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure and am thinking about this pre-made box, but I also have access to a wood shop, so I might build my own sub enclosure. I haven't decided on amps on yet, but Rockford has a promotion where you buy a dual amp wiring kit and get 25% off an amp on crutchfield. Haven't done the math yet to know if I'd actually be saving money versus just buying from Amazon though.
Limited budget. Would it be recommended to go with the JBL speakers in the cheap proposed systems or with the Micca ones plus a ~$100 subwoofer (found https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&amp;AID=11051853&amp;PID=7112509&amp;ref=cj&amp;utm_source=cj&amp;utm_medium=11051853&amp;utm_term=Skimlinks-2617611 and https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502901197&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=slim+subwoofer
were recommended)
For some background, they are for a fairly small bedroom and I have diverse music tastes but am particularly into hip-hop and electronic music. Specifically, bass heavy music so I want those low frequencies coming in pretty strong/clear. Thanks for any advice!
I replaced all the speakers in mine and it was seriously lacking bass until I put in a shallow sub. Got this sub and an amp off Craigslist. Did the trick. Gotta go for a shallow mount sub. Trunk space is limited for one in a hatch.
Trying to understand all the differences. Would this sub work?
I'm assuming I'll use 2 out of 4 channels to power it.
Jbl is always one of the top review for underseat subwoofer. What about this one, well its not really an underseat: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC
If space is an issue you should look at the 10 inch pioneer shallow mounted sub.
You can get it with a box for a reasonable price and it will take a good amount of power.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQTU3QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1485881674&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=TSSWX2502
Do you mean this? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
or this one?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4VJNR4/ref=psdc_10980761_t1_B00KVVX2QW
also https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1472741816&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+headphone+amplifier
Hello, all. I'm planning on stepping my audio set up by a notch. Currently I have a pair of Pioneer SP-BS22-LR bookshelf speakers (https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS22-LR-Designed-Bookshelf-Loudspeakers/dp/B008NCD2LG) with a subwoofer from a cheap Insignia 2.1 combo powered by the Lepai LP-2020A+ Amp(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049P6OTI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). And the headphones I have is the Sennheiser RS 170 Wireless Headphones.
Components I want to upgrade: Headphones, sub woofer, a DAC and an amp to drive the new headphones.
I see the Massdrop HD6XX for $200 and am interested, then I also see the DT990 Pro 250 ohm for $125 from Newegg and now I'm hesitating which one I should get. As for the Dac/amp it could be a combo or separate devices, but I'm wondering if therw's a way for me to connect both headphone amp and my speaker amp to the same DAC output(Could the Monoprice 111567 Desktop Headphone Amplifier be the solution to this? https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW). Finally I want to get a decent sub woofer to go with the bookshelf speakers.
Ah yea sorry I didn't notice that you only wanted closed lol. Well the best DAC/Amp (that is also cheap) I can think of is the Monoprice one.
> https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469992339&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=monoprice+dac+amp
The reason this thing is better than most cheap dac amps is because it's not USB powered. So it might not be the best solution for a semi-portable set up, but I think it's good if you really need a DAC/Amp.
Grab the Monoprice amp from Newegg. $100ish. Great sound for price, mine died fast, but I'm in the minority there.
Grab a Modmic. $60ish. Absolutely fantastic.
And, the headphones themselves..... HD 599s. Decent price, good sound, absolutely atrocious looks. And a removeable cable.
You can upgrade all of this (except the modmic, that's basically perfect) for even better, but there's a good start.
I'm currently working on sourcing and testing all the "external sound cards" I can get my hands on (i.e., DAC/AMP with mic pass-through) but I don't have full data there yet.
Like this guy?
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
I'm wondering if I need something in between as far as features go, as I'm realizing that I'd really like to be able to run a basic microphone input through the device as well. Just a 1/8" or 1/4" type connection, nothing fancy like the XLR connections. Wouldn't ever be used for anything more than online voice communications.
Okay, found some mix-and match pieces that will do the same thing for less:
This headphone amp has multiple inputs and pre outputs for your speakers:
https://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/
https://smile.amazon.com/D03K-Digital-Analog-Audio-Converter/dp/B009346RSS/
You'll need cables: a toslink cable from the TV to the D03, an RCA-3.5mm cable from the D03 to the 111567. A USB A to USB B (large) (also known as a USB printer or device cable) from your PC to the 111567. Maybe a 3.5mm adapter for your headphones. Whatever cables your speakers use to connect to RCA jacks.
I've found two other options over the stack you're using and the Audioengine D1 I mentioned:
Sometime last year, I bought a used monoprice amp and an used smsl a50, I recently noticed when my speakers are at low volume it creates a quiet static sound. What causes this and how can I fix it?
Speaking strictly functionality, that is what I want... but it's hideous. Lol. Thank you for the recommendation.
I think I'm leaning towards something along these lines but I still have to plug and unplug the headphones. At least it would be on top of the desk.
Currently I have this amp and I'm getting interference through the AUX cables and not the usb side. Is there a different amp that has multiple USB channels?
So this amp is what you're recommending? Will it be good for gaming and such? Thank you!
Like people have said vinyl is a for those who love to tinker, and to hunt for that new record or upgraded component. If you just want to be able to listen to great sounding music and not worry about the stuff in the middle, download some FLAC files, buy a nice USB DA converter and enjoy, there is noting wrong with digital audio. If you still want to see what its all about, surf the craigslist list, get a turn table. then get a $30 pre-amp from Amazon, and a small headphone amp. the one i linked to actually has a built in USB DA converter so you can get your good sound card too. That will be the cheapest way to get in to vinyl, for just over $200 if you end up having to pay a high price for the turntable on craigslist list. those components i linked to with a decent vintage turntable and your nice headphones will sound great.
Pre-amp: http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-PP400-BEHRINGER-MICROPHONO/dp/B000H2BC4E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422075043&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=phono+preamp
headphone amp: http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW/ref=sr_1_23?s=audio-video-accessories&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422075678&amp;sr=1-23&amp;keywords=headphone+amplifier
Hmm, I'm not sure I'm really recommending it as much as letting you know that it exists. :) There are a few reviews of it on the net, including a rambling one from ZReview. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TUFQgodxyNk
Here it is at Amazon.
Nice! was looking for either the monoprice one a friend told me it was great for the price, or the O2 from massdrop.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-111567-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00KVVX2QW
Thanks for the response! What are your thoughts on the HD650 compared to HIFIMAN HE-400I - currently at $250.
Also, I'm not very familiar with amps, so would an extra $100 investment be worth it, or would the ones you recommended (I think these) be just fine?
How cheap and what is the impedance of your headphones? If $100 is reasonable then I recommend these two units.
$100 - Micca OriGen
$105 - Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier.
E10K is what I'd recommend, because it should have the power to drive any headphones you get, since some models have a 600-ohm impedance which need a load of power to use. The E10K can drive any future headphones you get just fine. The alternative to that is the Monoprice version which has even more power but can cost a little more.
The E12 is designed for portable use so I can;t guarantee it'll every headphone you get.
Hmmmm, looking at the Fiio E10K on Amazon after I made my last post and saw that instead of the normal $74.99 it sells for, it's now listing at $99. (I am hoping this is a temporary price jump).
The Monoproce Dac/Amp combo is $79.00 and gets some good love. It Might be worth a look.
Okay so I think that instead of the SD 793ii (ill return it) I'm getting the monoprice DAC and headphone amp, It seems like it would solve all of my problems, but I just cant seem to find the smsl-50 in a black finish anywhere....anyone have suggestions for something other then the SMSL at around the same price point in black finish? Or I could just get a cheap stand alone DAC for the signal coming out of my computer and buy This headphone amp. I will be listening to both my Turn table and Mac Pro Tower through the system.
Edit: words and stuff
Instead of getting a sound card just get a DAC.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVVX2QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Much much much better sound and analog volume controls.
not sure I got this one and I like it https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KVVX2QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Would it be a good idea to pick up something along the lines of the Monoprice Desktop Headphone Amplifier for the HE400i?
First, replace the head unit. You can do this for less than $100. Example: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X6800BS/Pioneer-DEH-X6800BS.html?tp=5684&amp;avf=Y order this and you'll get the dash kit and wiring harness for free.
Next, add some bass. Get this subwoofer/amp combo, it's the best you'll get on a budget. With a new head unit, you'll get RCA outputs for the sub.
http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1367690517&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=Fiio
If you wanna go cheaper, I've heard great things about the Rockford Fosgate Punch 500w and plan to get it. For $120 it seems pretty great. The 750w version was clamped and did over 1000w, I've heard these are usually birthed around 650w.
I use this:
HomeSpot NFC-enabled Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio with Bluetooth Auto-Reconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Connect it to your USB port and AUX line in. After you've paired with it once, when you turn your car on it will power up and auto-connect to your phone.
I've had it for nearly a year and I haven't had a single problem with it.
Additionally, I use this to have media (and assistant) controls on my steering wheel:
Satechi Bluetooth Button Series (Media Button) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RM75NL0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Don't wait! Get a cheap used Android phone and a phone holder and make sure you get this gadget:
Wireless Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio with Bluetooth Auto-Reconnect
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G57CWZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It is the only one that reconnects automatically to your phone without the need to turn on manually; it requires a USB port and aux jack.
I was planning to sell my 2013 Fiat 500, but this gadget convinced me not to. Thousands of dollars saved.
Caveat - I do have a pay as you go chip on this android phone so that it refreshes traffic and selects the best route, but will work as a great Spotify deck if you park garage has a good wifi signal that allows the phone to download music.
BTW the receiver also works with my iPhone, so you can stream music from it.
Thanks
Im still new to brands, havnt been in this hobby for that long to absorb all the reviews. What are the cheap/unreliable brands that i should stay away from? Im tempted to buy cheap but dont want it to blow up and smoke lol i want something stable.
I was thinking something like this for subs -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B06XDHP82F?th=1
And slap on some kinda amp like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S4XKYC/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B00T3QBLYG?th=1
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Here's three that are dedicated DACs and Amps. I own the e10 and it sounds great, and not just for its price.
Also, they didn't say that the dedicated amp would be able to drive high impedance headphones well. Keep in mind that they're targeting Beats headphones which have low impedance.
Here is another Amazon suggestion. Any experiences with the NuForce uDAC2?
I've heard great stuff about the NuForce from a friend who has it.
I can't comment much on small monitor speakers, but I can tell you what I think of my Sennheiser HD280 headphones. I think they sound fairly good, but the padding is inadequate and after a few hours one of my ears hurts where it is touching a hard part of the headphone. If I was buying again now, I'd have a long hard look at the ATH-M50.
Oh wise audiophiles,
Forgive me in advance for any ignorance, this is going to be my entry-level purchase into the hifi world. This is not necessarily a 'puchasing advice' inquiry, but more of a knowledge inquiry on what I need to power my setup. I'm looking at buying KRK Rokit 5 G3s and the Beyerdynamic DT770 250 ohms purely for near-field music listening (no producing, mixing, DJing, etc.) at my PC. I was recently gifted the Xonar DX 7.1 PCI sound card for my rig which I believe is a sufficient DAC for Rokit 5s (correct me if I'm wrong), but I'm unsure if I'm losing some quality by hooking my monitors in with an unbalanced line via an XLR or 1/4" TRS to 1/8" TRS. Further to that, the Xonar DX does not split to mono inputs so I would need an adapter to plugin directly to my soundcard. I do enjoy having an external interface to control my sound devices and a friend suggested I buy a mixer such as the Behringer XNYEX502 as another possibility.
First question: is it worth buying an external DAC/mixer for my Rokit 5s compared to using only a Xonar DX soundcard?
I also understand that they DT770s need an amplifier to be properly used. The recommendations I've researched typically consist of the fiio portable headphone amplifier series or the O2/ODAC JDS Labs combo. I do not need a portable amplifier as these headphones will live at my station and I have separate headphones for portability. The O2/ODAC combo sounds like a great piece of hardware, but at $279, they greatly exceed the price of my DT770s.
Second question: Are there other solutions that I can look into that aren't portable or expensive?
If the O2/ODAC combo is recommended and is worth the price in combination with the DT770s, then I'm perfectly fine making the purchase. Just want to be sure it's not overkill.
Now for the (longshot) third question: Since I'm potentially looking into both a DAC and a headphone amplifier, is there a piece of hardware that can satisfy both in one tool? Seems like I could find a way of mitigating the cost by purchasing a device that could be both a DAC/mixer for my Rokit 5s and a headphone amplifier for my DT770s. If not, is there a stack I could purchase that have similar designs that would look aesthetically pleasing on my station (I'm a fan of clean looking and matching hardware)?
Again, sorry for any groans I may have caused and thank you in advance for your expertise.
First let me say that I don't know anything. I was looking at these headphones and using this"amp"
EDIT: It appears that this is a better option with the headphones I linked. But again, I do not know anything. Seriously.
Hi,
several sets of supposed gaming headsets(5.1+7.1) have let me down, both with terrible positioning audio and just general quality. So considering replacing them and i stumbled into virtual barbershop and then a few more audiophilish videos. Bit of research and generally looking around have left me with this as a short list.
Zalman ZMMIC1 Lapel Microphone,
Sennheiser HD 518 Open Circumaural Headphones with E.A.R. Technology
FiiO Olympus E10 USB Decoder Headphone Amplifier (3.5 mm Stereo Jack, Black)
as far as I am aware (blissfully unaware) these 3 are compatible? and pretty decent quality for the cash (£200max)? and just plugging them straight in the back of my pc via USB will work beautifully?
and on a gamming related, do most games now have positional stereo enabled ala virtual barber shop or am i going to end up without any positional from this setup?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Zalman-ZM-MIC1-ZMMIC1-Lapel-Microphone/dp/B00029MTMQ/ref=pd_sim_recht_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0XH5A8P6Z9R4JGS2MG2D
http://en-uk.sennheiser.com/audio-headphones-stereo-hifi-tv-hd-518
http://www.amazon.co.uk/FiiO-Olympus-E10-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B005VO7LG6/ref=pd_sim_computers_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=02T1N4VCS5H08BNWSD6J