Best car electronics accessories according to redditors

We found 3,439 Reddit comments discussing the best car electronics accessories. We ranked the 843 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Radar detectors
GPS system accessories
Car audio & video installation products
Car audio & video dash mounting kits
Car audio & video accessories
Antitheft accessories
Cell phone car accessories
Installation Services

Top Reddit comments about Car Electronics Accessories:

u/SuperWoody64 · 143 pointsr/Music
u/lahimatoa · 127 pointsr/nostalgia

They have tape adapters for BLUETOOTH now. My boss has one. My mind is blown.

u/METEOS_IS_BACK · 119 pointsr/iphone

Actually I have a Bluetooth cassette adapter that's super cool. People get amazed when they see it.

EDIT: link

u/amd_kenobi · 102 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

A couple of ferrite chokes would probably fix this issue. They'll "choke" any RF coming off of the cable and stop it from fucking with wifi and bluetooth signals.

u/hawk16zz · 57 pointsr/pics
u/cdegallo · 51 pointsr/Android

Anyone looking to follow this, choose your Bluetooth adaptor carefully. I've gone through about 4 before I found one that actually had good audio quality. This is the one I settled on and it's been great, supports aptx and sound quality is great:

u/craftBK · 50 pointsr/technology

Here you go. Bluetooth to cassette. Took 1 Google search.

ION Audio Cassette Adapter Bluetooth | Bluetooth Music Receiver for Cassette Decks

u/tisboyo · 34 pointsr/techsupport

It's most likely not CB, it's probably HAM (amateur radio). Like /u/a_crazy_horse said, if you ask him, he will probably help you eliminate the interface, although he is not legally required to.

Your headphones and computer are a FCC Part 15 device, and must accept all unwanted interference by law, but that doesn't mean he's not a nice guy who likes solving problems like that.

Onto further diagnosing. Something is acting as an antenna for you, it could be the headphone wire, or any of the other numerous cables running into your computer. I'd start with ferrite chokes and see if that stops it. With the electrical wiring in your house being the longest wire that the computer is connected to, I would start with your computers power cord, then the headphones, but it won't hurt to do both.

In regards to other comments here, 4 watts is the legal maximum on CB, for amateur it is 1500 watts. Also, the police will do nothing for you. It's a waste of yours and their time to try. You can try the FCC, and they would probably tell you to talk to the neighbor first, which takes us back to the top of this comment. But ultimately, the FCC is responsible for things like this.

On a side rant, nobody ever speaks to their neighbors anymore when they have a problem, communication is wonderful.

u/Zokusho · 33 pointsr/pics

I use a bluetooth adapter that plugs into my auxiliary port that works great. It was $18 on Amazon.

u/epox999 · 30 pointsr/pics

And they make brand new ones that use Bluetooth :

u/the_resident_skeptic · 27 pointsr/Music

Not sure about the 2010, but my previous car (02 Taurus) had a tape deck. A CD player, or if you were really rich, a 6-CD changer were options. I ended up buying a bluetooth cassette adapter which worked OK.

u/sageDieu · 26 pointsr/buildapcsales

I just dealt with this issue myself by using a ground loop isolator on the headphone plug part:

This actually just arrived about an hour ago and appears to have solved the problem entirely.

My setup now is BoomPro > headphone/mic splitter, headphone plug goes to this isolator which goes to my Monoprice DAC/Amp, mic plug goes to this little USB adapter which made the mic louder and clearer.

I was dealing with some noise and volume issues in the mic, and some noise in the headphones, and these two things have fixed both of those and made the mic sound much better. The ground loop isolator cut the headphone volume by about 20% (just guessing, haven't measured anything) but I had plenty of room to turn up my amp to account for that and still am only at like 60% output volume.

u/DoubleSpoiler · 25 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

When you plug in the Switch power cord, you're going to get buzzing because of a ground loop. You'll need one of these.

u/sdoorex · 24 pointsr/iphone

Bluetooth cassettes exist or you can use this iPhone 7 car charger from Scosche that will charge the phone and provide a plug for your cassette adapter.

u/eddiesnowedin · 22 pointsr/insaneparents

I use this device! Highly recommend!

u/JohnnieTalker · 18 pointsr/Wellthatsucks

And with AUX you can also finally get bluetooth, which is totally worth it.

u/Myteus · 17 pointsr/nostalgia

Get a bluetooth one with a built in mic and boom, wireless music and hands free phone talking. It works great!

u/kestrel808 · 17 pointsr/nottheonion

I drive a early 90's toyota and picked up this bluetooth receiver for my car. Your stereo has to have 1/8in audio input(or an adapter), but it works super great and it's only like $23.

u/MetricT · 17 pointsr/nashville

I ordered this hands-free mount from Amazon and it's a good one. Thanks to voice recognition I can say "Hey Google, load the TDOT Smartway webserver" and it'll pop up. And with Bluetooth, I can take calls over my car's stereo system instead of using my hands. If you have an older car without Bluetooth, you can add it for $18 with this adapter. I have one in my older Subaru, and it's good to go there. It has a surprisingly good microphone built-in, as well as a quick charger.

u/erebusdelirium · 16 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

That is exactly what I do. However, it's VERY LIKELY you will get an annoying buzzing sound called a ground loop.

I bought a cheap Ground Loop Isolator to solve it.

u/kakanczu · 16 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I have this one and it charges extremely slowly. In fact, I use it more as a "the phone at least won't lose power while it's plugged in." It barely keeps up when using the GPS and playing music.

By the way, this one has much better/more reviews. All of these seem to be one amp but it's better than nothing.

u/deeayepee · 15 pointsr/GooglePixel

My last car didn't have Bluetooth which really sucked until I found this little guy. I'm only sharing in case you didn't know about it.

I agree that they should figure out wtf if going on with Bluetooth before removing the headphone jack. I love the option even though I have probably only plugged headphones into my pixel one time since owning it.

u/texansfan · 14 pointsr/DIY

I bought this guy and few weeks ago and I love it!

u/Hallorannn · 13 pointsr/buildapc

Most case manufactureres skimp out a bit on the front panel wiring. There are old forum posts from the Windows XP era about custom fixes, which, like you mentioned, involves foil. Rear audio panel is usually not [as] susceptible to electrical interference, though.
Edit- some ppl say that ferrite beads or a ferrite core should help reduce EMI

u/twilightpanda · 12 pointsr/gadgets

yes! I have that! hold on let me find it

is this what you're looking for?

u/ivtecdoyou · 12 pointsr/Android

I bought a bluetooth adapter that plugs into my car's aux port, and it works excellently. It has a next and previous song button and play/pause button so that I never have to pull my phone up to change anything. I love it and don't see myself ever going back to using an aux cable, Can Be Found Here

u/xXPanduhzXx · 11 pointsr/GooglePixel

Not op, but I had the BTC450. Really great quality, and adds huge convenience of Bluetooth: it has a microphone built in for phone calls; one touch support for changing songs, answering/hanging up phone calls, etc; it looks nice and has a matte black finish to it; it is super small, doesn't take up any space either.

Here's the Amazon link

u/mastert429 · 11 pointsr/pics
u/HarleleoN · 11 pointsr/Cartalk

You could use an FM transmitter that plugs into the cigarette lighter port in your car or install an aftermarket radio.

u/Dad-Sweater · 10 pointsr/GalaxyS8

I use this for Bluetooth in my car. Very cheap and works well.

u/burritosandpuppies · 10 pointsr/iphone

I did this at first as well, but it bothered me not being able to charge while in the car. So I bought this. Only downside is that it can't invoke Siri, but I don't use Siri much anyway.

u/sprrocket · 10 pointsr/Twitch

Pro tip for the "Static Computer Hum"--if you're using an analog mixer or mic plugged into your computer's line in and you hear an annoying buzz or hum on-stream, you probably have a ground loop (your mic and computer sharing the same ground wire). This is easily remedied by buying a "Ground Loop Isolator" off of Amazon for about $10:

u/Tarpit_Carnivore · 10 pointsr/Android

This is called ground loop interference. You can get a cable like this: to remove the noise. Just be aware this may reduce frequencies, like bass, but it will remove the hiss.

u/[deleted] · 9 pointsr/CarAV

You're getting got. Let's do some quick math:




160+200+27 dollars is 387. Build your own box. But if not...

44 dollars....for a grand total of 431...give or take.

I'd buy each part online...its much cheaper.

u/praetor- · 9 pointsr/CarAV

With the dual 2 ohm sub your wiring options are either a 4 ohm or 1 ohm final load. That amp can't handle a 1 ohm load and will only deliver 300w at 4 ohms. Get the dual 4 ohm version of the sub and wire the coils in parallel for a final load of 2 ohms.

Get this amp kit. The Scosche kit would probably work but there's a chance the wire isn't true 8 gauge and if that's true it might not handle the load. Also, the Knu kit is cheaper, better quality, and will carry more current.

u/DarthSnoopyFish · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Be warned. My Switch gave awful feedback when I went from headphones out to line in on my PC. I had to buy this to get rid of the feedback.

u/reverendnathan · 9 pointsr/MotoX

I'd only recommend the Hint if you've come to rely on BT ear buds. The X is very functional with "whip-right-out-of-your-pocket" functionality thanks to active display turning on and deep listening ready to go.

The car dock I bought is a U-grip for ten bucks. It's not perfect, but it certainly holds my device in place with absolutely no slippage, and the rotation ball on the dock is adjustable which is nice. Easy to remove.

If I can upsell you on car crap, the Kinivo bluetooth car unit in particular supports AptX as do Moto products! No quality compromise versus AUX IN... ditch the wires in your car! I mounted the controller low and can pause and skip in a very comfortable position where the unit is hidden-- honestly, don't know how I went so long with something so dang convenient.

If you are splurging, the turbo charger is cool. For when you've got no plugs, a powerbank is nice. Other than power and cord management, this phone takes away a lot of necessity for accessories.

u/mtndewaddict · 9 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

For $20 you can get a bluetooth version. I love mine.

u/scubascratch · 9 pointsr/iphone

Get yourself one of these car Bluetooth adaptors for $20, zero effort to connect disconnect. Turn car on, automatic connect. Turn car off, automatic disconnect. No mess, no fuss.

I used to be major frustrated with the previous car Bluetooth device I was using that required me to press buttons to connect disconnect, but now I'm super happy with the SB360.

u/blackjakals · 8 pointsr/battlestations

That depends on if your studio monitors start buzzing when you plug them in. If so, getting an audio interface with balanced cables may help. If there is no buzzing, then you should be fine just plugging them into your motherboards audio port using a dual XLR or dual TS (or TRS) to 3.5mm cable. If you get buzzing, you could also buy a ground loop isolator. That is what I did and it worked wonders. Here is the link for the isolator if needed:

u/jmattick · 8 pointsr/videos

You need to install a Ground Loop Isolator

That's what is causing the squeal you hear. That's one of many available.

u/blackblacktsr · 8 pointsr/iphone

For your problem - I couldn't recommend these enough;

u/VA7EEX · 8 pointsr/amateurradio

This is a fairly common thing. You can attach ferrite beads to your headphones to mitigate this fairly easily.

Typically you would see a single bead installed at the base of the cable near the plug, but you may need to either install more further up or loop the wire through the same bead multiple times if it doesn't stop the music the first time. It also can't hurt to attach ferrite beads to all your cables on your computer/tv as well. Heck I ferrited my network cables (not that that helped me in my situation).

u/sanels · 8 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Be aware that in a lot of situations you may hear a humming/buzzing noise caused by ground loop issue. You can fix this(as i have) by getting a ground isolator like this one:

u/Neobim · 7 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

This doesn't seem to be an uncommon problem. It's likely a ground loop issue related to less-than-optimal shielding. Some guy got his replaced and it came back fixed, however this tends to be a rather common issue with such thin devices, so I wouldn't get my hopes too high on a replacement being much better. I also have this problem, but got one of these and it fixed it wonderfully. While it would be nice to not need an external filter to carry around (though it's quite small), I'm perfectly happy with this solution. I've also found that turning on the 'lower headphone output' option in system settings makes it a lot less audible.

u/general_0408 · 7 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

You can buy a ground loop isolator to get rid of the buzzing caused by EMI.

u/GuinnessDraught · 7 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

There are a lot of these, and many better than this one specifically for car usage. Having to charge it every 24 hours? Get out of town.

I have this one in my car, costs a bit more at $40 but is smaller and easily mounted to the dash, no charging required, and also doubles as a USB power plug.

u/eleqtriq · 7 pointsr/iphone

Ion Audio Cassette Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver for Cassette Decks

u/sharkamino · 7 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

If you are spending $500 on a subwoofer, it's time for a new receiver with an RCA sub out connection and subwoofer bass management.

Best value, DENON AVR-X1500H 7.2-Ch $599 $299. 4K HDR HDMI, Audyssey MultEQ XT room correction EQ speaker setup, HEOs WiFi networking and streaming, smartphone app remote and Amazon Alexa voice control.

If you really have to temporarily continue using an outdated home theater in a box receiver, Kicker KISLOC Speaker Cable to RCA Adapter with Line Out Converter $20.

u/WhatWasWhatAbout · 7 pointsr/GooglePixel

This one by SoundBot.

The radio I have installed has an aux input, and USB port conveniently next to each other (but obviously no BT capabilities). So this was perfect!

u/The_Geoff · 7 pointsr/BlackPeopleTwitter
u/taiguy · 7 pointsr/GooglePixel

that sounds like a ground loop within your car.

go pick up an isolator and see if that fixes it.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/Alimoose · 7 pointsr/Android

Highly recommend this bluetooth car kit by Kinivo. It plugs into your AUX jack and gives your car bluetooth capabilities. Bought it for one of my cars and it works great.

u/Teknik987 · 7 pointsr/technology

I use the Kinivo-BTC450 which works perfectly for my needs. Automatically connects, aptx streaming, no batteries, siri button, microphone for phone calls and music controls. For a reasonable price, been using mine now for a couple years.

u/3raser · 7 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I have this one and it's easily the best thing I've ever bought for my car.

It works perfectly

u/firebirdude · 6 pointsr/CarAV

You're not going to be able to keep the cassette player. I'm sorry to break it to you, but for the same reasons you can't buy an 8-track player, you can no longer buy a cassette player. As pdb1795 said, you can always get a new stereo with CD/AUX, then use a walkman plugged into the AUX to play your tapes. But I suggest converting all your tapes to MP3 ASAP so they'll stop losing sound quality everytime you play them. Plus you'll be able to play those MP3s without a walkman on your new stereo.

New stereo (all harnesses and brackets included for free)



Front Speakers

Subwoofer depends on how much bass you want and how much trunk space you're willing to sacrifice. It also sounds like you're getting it all installed professionally, which is a smart idea. So figure at least $250 for labor, likely more like $300.

u/pr0grammer · 6 pointsr/MotoX

I only have an aux jack and didn't want to shell out for an entirely new head unit, so I use this. It's quite cheap and works great; the audio quality is indistinguishable from regular aux, it has skip and play/pause buttons, and the calling function and mic work exactly as you'd expect.

u/edrinshrike · 6 pointsr/whatisthisthing
u/_SerialShitter · 6 pointsr/Nexus5

I have this one, and it works great for music. I don't talk on the phone much, so I haven't bothered setting it up to take calls.

u/digitaldavis · 6 pointsr/OP1users

I believe it has more to do with the impedance of the OP-1's output and the impedance of the other device's input. For an example - listen to the the OP-1 with cheap, low impedance headphones and you'll hear a ton of noise. Now listen to the OP-1 using a pair of quality high impedance headphones and you won't hear any noise.

There can me some hum/noise from the output when you have the USB connected, but there is a simple fix for that - a ground loop isolator.

This devices solves alot of the OP-1 noise problems.

u/devinepope · 6 pointsr/gadgets

I did this in my '08 Chevy impala. Use this:

All you have to do is plug in the cigarette lighter the and the aux plug. Read the instructions. It's fairly simple and useful. Also it can answer calls so you don't have to switch between stuff.

For extra win you can grab an NFC tag and you can program it to connect your phone and any other phone to it automatically so your friends and use their music if you want.

Source: my setup

If you have any questions whatsoever feel free to ask!! :-)

u/StereoSage · 6 pointsr/Android

Like what /r/jcpb said, try a ground loop isolator in your aux jack. Worked wonders when I got engine noise in my music!

u/SeriousZebra · 6 pointsr/4Runner

I had the same problem in my 06 sr5, I ordered a ground loop isolator and it made a huge difference. This is the one I used.

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included

u/SlendyTheMan · 6 pointsr/iphone

I solved this by buying a Bluetooth to aux for my car. It plugs into my USB charger on my car (I have a car charger to 2 USB port that comes with the device) and I plug the aux from the Bluetooth into the car. My phone auto connects and I can still charge my device. There is no delay, no sound quality loss, it's pretty good!!

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

It was only 20 bucks too!!

With this, I also bought a recommended item in the reviews I read - a ground noise insulator. It goes for 9 bucks too. For my case, I didn't see a difference but you plug the Bluetooth AUX into this, then this into the car.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

(PS: I recently got a new car with carplay and still have both of these items. If you'd like, I could ship you these two items I talked about actually! I have no use for them now.)

u/im_from_detroit · 6 pointsr/ProtectAndServe

Ford decided to have the prompt in my car display "Phone disconnected" to mean that there is not Bluetooth module. I did have an Aux port, so I just worked with that.

I have this , and was genuinely surprised by the quality. You do need USB for power, as well.

u/alientity · 6 pointsr/audible

Most vehicles have an AUX input (older vehicles usually have a CD Changer option, which in many cases, can be converted to an AUX input using an adapter), so even a cheap AUX->BlueTooth adapter would address this (and it's just nice to have if you're a smartphone user).

There are so many of these devices on the market, you can find them at your local WalMart, Target, Best Buy, etc., or Amazon (example).

Another option is to find a really cheap (even used) SmartPhone, and download the content via Audible while on your WiFi network at home (or a public hotspot if you don't have access at home).

Even BlackBerry has one of these (and works really well).

u/HeWhoPunsOften · 6 pointsr/GooglePixel

This is what I use

It starts when my car starts and also has 2 more USB ports for charging other devices. Hope this helps!

u/loopasfunk · 6 pointsr/synthesizers

Maybe some grounding issues. I have a similar problem with my op-1 and this does the job Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)
I bought a boss noise suppressor as well but it mostly compresses it but it does the job well for $50

u/letsplaywar · 5 pointsr/iphone

Cassette bluetooth adapter

Problem solved for the cassette adapter issue.

u/willwinter · 5 pointsr/iphone

Get one of these:
I have a 1999 Toyota and this gave the radio new life!

u/MiniMatt85 · 5 pointsr/MINI

I got for my R56. It has been working great for over a year now. I can use my steering wheel controls and it shows the song info on the lcd display.

u/No_Manners · 5 pointsr/Android

I've had the soundbot bluetooth to 3.5mm for a couple years now and can't recommend it enough.

u/stretch_muffler · 5 pointsr/cars

Does her car have a headphone jack, often called an AUX? If so you can buy one of these thingys and stick it on the dash. Unlike your #2 solution, it's always charged. Downside is she has to flip the radio to aux to hear.

u/eneka · 5 pointsr/cars

I've been using this one for a while now and have been pretty satisfied.

u/TheBearOfBadNews · 5 pointsr/Android

I've been using [this one](AUKEY Bluetooth Receiver with 3-Port USB Car Charger and Magnetic Base, Bluetooth 4.1 Hands-free Car Kit for iPhone, Samsung, Android Phones and More since last August. Doesn't have the cigarette charger integrated so I can connect it to the low power USB port that's built in to my car which frees up my cigarette outlet for my higher output dual port charger. Powers on and off automatically which makes using Bluetooth in my car pretty seamless.

u/elevatedstations · 5 pointsr/OP1users

Do get one of these:

Mine was super noisey.. to the point where I was thinking about getting rid of it, but that cleared it right up.

u/RxBrad · 5 pointsr/Nexus6P

You need to buy a ground loop isolator to plug it in. Something like this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/torgis30 · 5 pointsr/headphones

Does this happen when the laptop is plugged in, on battery, or both?

I have this pretty bad with my desktop rig with my noise canceling headphones, I found that using a ground loop isolator does wonders to eliminate hiss and buzz.

u/serosis · 5 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Check to see if the Line In and Mic inputs are muted. If not, mute them.

If that doesn't work try a ground loop isolator.

u/rjungemann · 5 pointsr/LGG3

My G3 works through my car with a ground-loop isolator cable.

An added plus is that it reduces noise for any phone that is playing through the car stereo while charging.

u/Mozgus · 5 pointsr/vitahacks

Just tried the plug-in. Works pretty well. Some minor black frame flickers once in a while on highest resolution with darkest dungeon. Will try other games and settings later. Also you can buy these cheap noise filter adaptors. I used this one in my last car to cure the AUX noise, and it did the trick to cure the audio here as well. Wow.

Edit: No black flicker once I limited the fps to 30 fps in the filter controls via PotPlayer. Smooth experience, since Darkest Dungeon runs 30 most of the time when overclocked. 60 fps in town menus but I can live without that.

I ordered some ferrite beads to attach to the cables to see if they work just as well.

Edit 2: ferrite beads have no effect on either cable. The ground loop isolator box is what people need.

u/Bene123 · 5 pointsr/nexus4

I had this issue as well. I purchased a ground loop isolator, and that fixed the problem right up.

I believe This is the one I bought.

You don't need to tear apart your car, just plug the 3.5mm male end into your auxiliary, and plug another male-male aux cable from your phone to the female end.

u/catmandont · 5 pointsr/nexus4

Check this out on AMZN:

Belkin Bluetooth Car Hands-Free Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version

u/imprl59 · 5 pointsr/Advice

The 08 Toyota has an aux port. Just get a bluetooth module that connects to that. If you want a newer car then work this summer and save your money then you'll have a decent down payment to buy one for yourself. The better your down payment the lower the interest rate for someone young without much credit history.

u/BossmanR · 5 pointsr/CarAV

I would go for 2 of These Subs with This Amp and This Wiring Kit.

u/out18law18 · 5 pointsr/CarAV

Here ya go....Sundown E series 15 $165

Pioneer amp $170

box $150

wiring kit $ 60

Around $550 for everything, but you could easily knock off $100 of that just by building your own box. or still save some by finding someone on craigslist that builds boxes(every craigslist has 1 or 2)

u/noeatnosleep · 5 pointsr/gadgets

Yeah, I have one in my car. It was expensive, though.

It also allows me to play music over the car speakers, too.

edit: that may not be the one I have, but I think that would work. If not, you should be able to find similar setups on Amazon fairly easily.

u/PartyDannyTanner · 5 pointsr/iphone

Or you could get a Bluetooth adapter that plugs into your Aux port.

Been rocking that for 2 years now.

u/Don_Drapper · 5 pointsr/iphone

I personally have been using the Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth to Aux, and I cannot complain about sound quality, hands-free operation of this with the many, many phones I had in the last three years. My major complain would be that the 12V and aux cable are both really short.

u/gfxlonghorn · 5 pointsr/GooglePixel

This adapator is awesome and works really well with aux in.

u/motoridersd · 5 pointsr/GooglePixel

You can connect your phone to multiple devices that handle different features. My BF's Maxima only has phone support, but he uses a Kinivo Bluetooth Receiver plugged into the aux port for A2DP audio. Phone calls still go through the car's handsfree system. I recommend you look for a bluetooth receiver that supports Apt X to get better audio quality. This is the one we use


u/artaru · 5 pointsr/technology

I couldn't find it quickly but it was something like this.

Most of these things also have mics built in so you can talk or use Siri hands free.

u/joelaro · 5 pointsr/OP1users

Ground loop isolator helps. Like this one:
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/cobrataco · 5 pointsr/ZReviews
u/leftweet · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I use the 3.5mm jack on my Elite and I also get white noise when plugging in a headphone directly. I got a ground loop isolator (specifically this one) and it fixed the white noise issue. It does seem to make the audio output quieter though and may affect some of the headphones' range, but I'm no audiophile so I haven't noticed anything myself.

u/yannage · 5 pointsr/OPZuser

I noticed that if I have the gain on the OP-1 from line in anything above 0, it gives feedback noise. I also have been using a noise isolator since I got my OP-Z. I noticed even when plugging into my computer via line-in it buzzes a bit. This has helped a lot.


u/DuranFanWI · 5 pointsr/PSVR

Just pick this up and you'll probably still be able to use your external HDD without any signal interference issues:

u/akran47 · 5 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You might get a buzzing noise (ground loop hum) but you can eliminate that with a ground loop noise isolater.

I run the 3.5mm through one of those and into my PC's line-in so I don't have to move plugs around or change headsets, and I haven't had any issues.

u/El-Grunto · 5 pointsr/MINI

Not without an adapter. Some Minis don't have the package that allows for music streaming.

u/lucidyan · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

A lot of noise here. I recommend this thing, that I found in a bunch of reddit threads and it helps me a lot with my OP-1 noise reduction, when I record it directly to my soundcard

u/oj_with_toothpaste · 4 pointsr/buildapc

So my new motherboard has some electrical interference in the rear audio ports only. It’s minor and it happens when I move mouse and the windows around.

Anyway I already went through hours of troubleshooting, I was wondering if something like this would help.

If not, is the “creative sound blaster audigy FX” a decent sound card? It’s a bit more than I want to spend but I just want to make sure this’ll do the job for music, gaming, movies etc.

I have sennheiser hd 280 pro if it matters.

u/Sergster1 · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/masonoli · 4 pointsr/Nexus6P

I've had this issue with my phone as well as a bluetooth device I bought (the one in my car died). What you need is a ground loop noise isolator. This is the one I got and it removed the noise for my bluetooth device and phone. Hope it helps!

u/triscious · 4 pointsr/Cadillac

I've got a 2009 AWD. I don't think there's a way of adding an in dash backup camera shy of adding an aftermarket unit, but the parking sensors have always worked great for me.

Bluetooth is for hands free calling only and not music. I've used this for over a year now and it's been great. It's all stored in my center console.

Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP)

u/ryan770 · 4 pointsr/iphone

I bought this and I’m super happy with it.

Only thing is Siri is really muffled for some reason, but music is extremely clear, and I’m picky.

Since it stays plugged in, it doesn’t need charging. My phone pairs with it right when I turn my car on, and I say “hey Siri, resume podcast” and don’t have to touch anything. It’s nice.

u/LippySteve · 4 pointsr/samsung

Bluetooth is what you're looking for. I tried the same options as you and this is what works.

That's what I use. Plug in the aux and the USB. Connect your phone to the Bluetooth and now you have all your music and calls through the car's speakers with a microphone for calls or Google assistant / Alexa. Also you can hide the wires and stick the controller to the dash for a more permanent set up.

u/idevxy · 4 pointsr/Android

Get one of these and one of these to connect to the tape adapter and you're all set. No charging anything or dealing with FM broadcasting.

I know it's a crazy hack, but I used that setup for years with my old car that had a tape deck and no AUX jack and it worked great.

I still prefer this setup even though my phone has a headphone jack (5T) because I can just get in my car and hit play. Don't even need to take my phone out of my pocket if I don't want to, though I usually use a magnetic dock.

u/GothamCountySheriff · 4 pointsr/vinyl

If you don't want to constantly be reaching behind the monitors to adjust the level knob, you will need a passive volume control (attenuator) like this:

u/JohnBooty · 4 pointsr/diysound

If you have the space for it a 5.1/7.1 home theater receiver will actually provided the easiest, cheapest, and best subwoofer integration since it's guaranteed to implement a proper crossover that high-passes the C-Notes (improving their power handling and clarity about the xover point) and low-passes the subwoofer. Accessories4Less is reliable and has great refurb deals. They'll also put out more clean power than your typical compact Class D amp.

Of course, there's not always space for something like that.

Compact amps with subwoofer out are annoyingly hard to find. The SMSL AD18 and Q5Pro have subwoofer output, but are a bit pricy. They don't get super super loud, but should be plenty loud enough for practice or as monitors I guess! Keep in mind that their sub outs aren't high-passed so the C-Notes will still play full-range.

Alternately you could choose any old amp, and simply control the volume upstream from the amp. Then you won't need a subwoofer out on the amp.

(RCA splitter) --> (inline volume control) --> (piano)

The amp would go into one set of RCA outputs and the sub into another.

You could of course skip the inline volume control if you can simply do it on the piano!

> Main goal is to get distortion free power that won't starve the speakers, so I'm thinking it should probably put out 40 watts per channel at a minimum? I could be wrong there, parts express has the cnotes rated at 60 watts RMS.

If you're going with a class D amps in the $100 range, look for amps rated at around 100W per channel -- typically based on the TDA7498E like the SMSL SA98 and Topping PA3. That "100W" rating is at 10% distortion. However, they'll do 50W at nice low distortion levels, giving the C-Notes about as much clean power as they can take.

However, if you're just using these for practice from a distance of several feet you don't need to go that big. A "50W" class D amp will give you around 25W of actual clean power, which is pretty damn loud at close range and is only ~3dB less than a 50W amp and 6dB less than a 100W monster.

u/adayinalife · 4 pointsr/vinyl

Look for a passive volume controller. They can be as cheap as around $10 if you do not care for aesthetics or Schiit SYS if you want something nicer.

u/cvr24 · 4 pointsr/CarAV

The tone knob has to be the most useless adjustment in the history of electronics. No matter where you turn it, the music still sounds like crap.

The closest thing available today would be a bass knob, which some subwoofer users prefer to adjust bass levels on the fly. A bass knob is mounted on the dash of the vehicle separate from the head unit.

Honestly, a properly designed and tuned system and clean audio sources will be far more enjoyable than constantly fiddling with settings.

u/PM_ME_YOUR_MANDOLINS · 4 pointsr/diyaudio

Could be a ground loop. There are commercially available ground loop breakers that use transformers. Eg.

Could be the integrated soundcard. Guaranteed that a decent USB DAC will sound better, and it will probably negate the need for the above noise isolator. There are countless USB DAC's Eg:

u/44ml · 4 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

This is the correct answer. I got this one from Amazon for $12. Sounds much better now.

u/robertsyrett · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

For what it's worth, I haven't had such an issue with my 0-Coast, you might try out different power sources to see if you have a defective unit. If it's just ground hum you might consider getting a filter as they are not expensive.

u/spartan2100 · 4 pointsr/iphone

I had a similar issue, but mine was a constant buzzing noise. I ended up getting a ground loop isolator from the manufacturer of my car adapter (Kensington), but I believe you can pick them up from electronic stores (i.e. Radio Shack in the US) as well.

u/disillusionedJack · 4 pointsr/gadgets

Better Amazon link

I'm not sure if yours was a mobile link, or it's just my browser, just trying to help people out, hope I didn't offend.

u/Bwdzxc · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Fellow teenager that listens to ignorant rap music, I am here for you. Your best bet would probably be [these] ( for subs. No box building, good brand, and they get loud. [Here] ( is the amp that will power them. Hifonics Brutus are a great budget amp and will do rated power, and they don't look to bad either. Then you will also need a [wiring kit] ( to connect everything. The last question I have to ask you is, do you have a aftermarket head unit?

u/lpbman · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Pioneer Hu

Front speakers

Rear speakers

5 channel amp


Sub box

Bettah cheapah fastah strongah

Edit: Amp kit No Walmart boss crap, that amplifier wants up to 80 amps.

u/epsys · 4 pointsr/tasker

hm, that's complicated

get a better bluetooth audio receiver, mine automatically connects to me when it receives power. (which happens when I turn the key in the ignition to or past ACC as the console-between-seats cig-lighter is tied to the ACCessories line.

which causes phone to start playing when connected (music player feature)

which starts my podcasts

my stereo has auto-volume adjust based on speed integrated

this saves me on the GPS battery eating.

I integrated an always-on Qi Wireless pad in the CD tray on the dash with rubber grippy thingies that prevent the phone from sliding around during my race-car driving. Also, both this, or bluetooth audio connection, set DT2W (double tap to wake) so I don't have to hit the power button to wake the screen.

I can't figure out how to do the lock screen disabling, that gives me serious problems regularly necessitating disabling Tasker, rebooting, and disabling the states/scripts that touch the lockscreen, rebooting, and re-enabling tasker...I suppose I'll get around to it one day but the lockscreen has shorcuts on it so I guess it's a feature.

Also, I have not and will never so much as google for this "Android L" or "Lollipop 5.0" business. My keyboard shivers even so much as typing those letters in sequence...

the instant bluetooth is really the greatest laziness-enabler I've ever come across. I just get into the car, leaving phone in pocket, and music starts playing. all too easy...

u/Mark_is_on_his_droid · 4 pointsr/mildlyinfuriating

this would work

I get that's not ideal, but when you're using a technology that's nearly 50 years old (cassettes went into car stereos in 1968) you can't be that disappointed a tech company wouldn't be thinking of your needs.

Edit: fixed link

u/sainisaab · 4 pointsr/nostalgia
u/JustCallMeMittens · 4 pointsr/E90

I recently started using a Tune2Air and a phone mount with wireless charging that automatically grabs your phone (this one). It’s a fantastic combo. My phone connects in seconds and from there it’s exactly the same as having an iPod plugged in. Steering wheel controls even work!
It’ll run you about $130 for the two, but it’s worth every penny.

u/iams3b · 4 pointsr/ShittyLifeProTips

If you have an aux port, I have this in my mazda3

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

It works perfectly, no annoyances. Just plug it into your aux port and connect your phone to it via Bluetooth

u/iamnotcreativeDET · 4 pointsr/cars

Your Sentra lacks support for something called A2DP.

Fun fact, bluetooth back in the day, was really only designed for very VERY low bandwidth, I'm talking like 768Kbits/sec, as a result it wasn't very good for streaming music through it, it also never was designed for stereo audio support, this was like early 2000/late 90s.

There never was a demand for it other than low bandwidth. Fast forward to smart phones and it was seen as a very useful technology for single channel audio (bluetooth headsets and such).

When it was implemented in cars back in the 2007+ model years, even smart phones really didn't use it for Stereo bluetooth yet, but the hardware was there for it to be supposed, and car manufacturers are usually about 3 years into development of a new model, so they can't simply stop the production line to put 1 new feature into the car, it would be a giant mess.

TL;DR, your car doesn't support stereo bluetooth. But you can buy an aftermarket radio that will replace the factory system if you want. probably will cost about $100+ or you can continue to just use an AUX cable. OR you can do this which will plug into the factory AUX jack and convert it to a bluetooth connection.

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Its electrical noise from the alternator.

They make 'noise cancelling' inline USB power filters and in some cases what you need is what's called a ground loop isolator on the 3.5mm stereo aux input.

u/Bezzle59 · 4 pointsr/CarAV





Slightly over your budget (~$280), but a pretty good combo at that price. You can switch the sub to get the cost down a little more. But, that Alpine will pull the full 500w from that amp whereas this Kenwood sub will only pull 300w.

Edit: Didn't notice you already have a Knukonceptz wiring kit. In that case, this is right at your budget.

u/Tec_ · 4 pointsr/CarAV

Gonna be a tight stretch at that price point. If you could shake loose another $100 you could get into one of the subreddits most recommend set ups.



Power wire

Then you just need a sheet of MDF for a box and any other install accessories you may need.

u/jefferios · 4 pointsr/GooglePixel

Forget all of the expensive USB C splitters, this is what you want:
Its a bluetooth adapter that plugs into your AUX in. The power plug has a USB pass through that will charge your device at medium speeds with any Type A to USB C cable.

I have had mine for years. My Nexus 6P and Pixel 2XL both remember it so when I get it in the car it connects automatically. It's really slick.

u/Fazulka · 4 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

I have had this over a year. Sounds quality is better than many built in Bluetooth systems. It connects without fail as soon as I start the car. Highly recommend.

u/Rayjin1 · 4 pointsr/galaxynote4

This has been perfect for me. It plugs into the cigarette lighter, It auto syncs to my phone when I get in the car. Ive had it for 4 months now. Sound quality is great, no problems with range, or static.

u/Emiliak · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Your subwoofer is 4 ohms and can handle 300W RMS, so you need an amp that can put out 300W RMS @ 4 ohms. I own the Alpine MRP-M500 and it runs like a champ. That matches your spec exactly. Don't cheap out with something from Boss or Pyle, they lie about their specs. Power it with a KnuKonceptz 4AWG kit and you'll have gauge to spare if you decide to upgrade in the future.

u/cronson · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Like /u/effin_dead_again said, please return that Boss amp. It is probably the worst brand out there for audio. A lot of people on here recommend this Pioneer amp if you want something cheap.

Here is a KnuKonceptz 8 gauge kit. I like their wires. I've heard good things about the NVX wires too.

u/Last_name_Lemon · 3 pointsr/CarAV

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

u/BigSherv · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.


Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier


4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W


You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter


You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure


|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|


That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.


You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.


You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.


I hope this info helps.

Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

u/insanemilkshake · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I know you asked about an amp kit from Sonic, but I would highly recommend getting this kit from Amazon.

Some of the low end brands on Sonic that sell amp kits won't give you wire that's as thick as they actually it is (i.e. some '4 gauge' cables will have thicker sheathes and less wire than others). Knu Konceptz over-sizes their wires plus this kit is made with oxygen-free copper instead of cheaper copper clad aluminum, which would provide better current flow and OFC doesn't corrode as easily. It's a great deal for the price.

u/ckeeler11 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I would do something with Sundown E or Soundqubed. Amp I would do Rockford. Wiring Kit OFC.

For the box it is best to make or buy a custom ported. Sheet of plywood is $40 with glue and some screws you are lookig at $50 and an afternoon.

u/UnsexySex · 3 pointsr/AskMen

I have an old Alpine MRP-M350 in my car. Paired with SWS-12D4.

First you have to pick your amp. But it also helps to know how many Amps your Alternator puts out. My alt puts out 150 amps, which is uncommonly high for a sedan. The reason for knowing your alternator is because if you have a weak alt, you will get headlight dimming very easily. No one likes headlight dimming.

After you know how many amps you have to work with off your alt. Then you get an amp. Something like this is pretty middle of the road:

After you have you amp, you need a sub. Pick any dual voice coil sub. Dual four is good. When wired in parallel it makes it 2ohms.

Now you have sub and amp. TIme for wiring. You need a wiring kit.

You will want Oxygen Free Copper, not Copper Clad Aluminum. Pure copper is what you are after. Anything else is junk.

Now you have your parts. Amp. Sub. Fat ass wire (4 gauge).

Run the power wire from the battery to where ever you want your amp, most people put it in the trunk. Make sure you have the inline fuse holder close the battery, within 12 inches.

Next, from the back if your stereo, you are going to run two wires. A remote wire that leads to the amp. And pair of RCA cables also to the amp. Next you are going to run a ground to the amp. The ground is simple because most people just find a bare metal in the trunk and use that.

Then you hook the power wire to the power terminal on the amp. Then the remote wire to the remote terminal on the amp. Then plug in the RCAs into the amp also. Power wire gives the amp power, remote wire turns the amp on and off with your car so you dont drain the battery because its always on. The RCAS give the amp an audio signal. Lastly, you go back and install the fuse, in the in line fuse box near the battery. And now you have a complete circuit, and thus, a working amp.

u/cjk813 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

This is what I'd do on that budget.

Sub: Dayton Titanic 12 $190

Box $57

Amp $166

Wiring Kit $50

Total: $463

With the little extra remaining I'd get a sound deadening kit for your trunk. You could also save money on the wiring if you never plan to upgrade in the future, but I typically like to go overkill on my amp and wiring the first time so future upgrades are a simple plug and play without having to run new wiring.

u/Chris260999 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

amp | wiring | woofer

This sub is arguably SQ oriented. You will need to fab a box. I've installed these a couple of times, they deliver. This is the lowest I would go.

u/athauglas · 3 pointsr/saab

> It's currently in the center armrest, but I would really like to place it elsewhere.

> Also, while I'm at it, would it be possible to add a single USB port in that same general area, for charging a phone? Is there any advice or logic for that?

It sounds like you're playing something off your phone and charging it at the same time, and you have no easy way to change the music. Right?

I'm about to blow your mind. Boom.

integrated USB charger, minijack input, easy bluetooth pairing, high quality audio, hands-free calling with noise cancellation, and play/pause/skip/seek.

u/pqgbd · 3 pointsr/india

Not really overlooked, but I love the convenience of a magnetic mobile car dock (the one I have was extendable, and doesn't seem available anymore).

If your car is old and doesn't have built in bluetooth but does have an aux port - this is a great bluetooth receiver with built in mic (I got mine for INR 1747)

u/drmickhead · 3 pointsr/prius

This adapter has a microphone that's separate from the aux plug. It comes with a 3M sticker that lets you place it on the exterior of the center console, and it picks up my voice rather well.

u/ProximaC · 3 pointsr/nexus6

That's the one I use in my truck. It plugs in to the cigarette port. I have one in my truck that's switched, so it's only on when the key is on.

u/bicyclemom · 3 pointsr/Android
  • I like the Moto Power Pack Micro. Handy to have a keychain battery pack, which can also act as a phone finder and trusted device.

  • Also have to give props to the Hula case that my phone came with. Makes it nice and grippy.

  • The Kinivo BTC 450 car bluetooth adapter is great if you have an old car that lacks built-in bluetooth.
u/Djs3634 · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I bought it, it seemed great but the problem I had with it was that you had to manually turn it on and off. I wanted something that turned on and off with the car. I bought this instead, who knows if it's BIFL or not with that said I'm very happy with it.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX by Kinivo

u/CorpseMunging · 3 pointsr/BmwTech

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - Supports AptX

u/CorinthianLeatherMan · 3 pointsr/gadgets

I have this one and love it!

It has buttons on it to pair, pause/play, and volume control. I have it in my center console compartment with my aux port, never touch it really, I use my phone mounted on the dash. 99% of the time it connects automatically when I turn my Bluetooth on, the other one percent I have to open the console and just tap the main button real quick and it pairs.

Another nice thing is the cigarette charger for the power has an aux converter built in as well. Can't speak highly enough about the unit, I researched a few and they're all around this price range too.

Here's some more!

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I think he meant a headphone amp/dac, which often have preouts to control the volume of your speakers. Schitt Fulla 2 is one example.

This things $10 and should work fine, albeit being a bit small.

u/Sytek_ · 3 pointsr/CarAV

PAC LC-1 Remote Knob - $10.84

Works with every amplifier, possibly the best purchase I've made in my setup. Simply controls the signal running from the head unit to the amplifier, therefore controlling the volume of the amp.

Conventional "bass" knobs could possibly blow your subs like my sister did. She had a system installed and the installers mounted the "bass" (gain) knob on the dash and told her to control it for how much bass she wanted. She blew them within a year to the point the one seized and I couldn't punch it free...

u/ChrisRK · 3 pointsr/CarAV

You could get something like the Alpine Power Pack and an universal bass knob that has RCA cables in and out to use as volume control. Then use an RCA to AUX cable for your phone/tablet.

u/MyNameIsRay · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Just use a RCA Level Controller on the Sub RCA's. and you effectively have sub remote on any amp you want.

u/goot449 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Sounds like you're looking for PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller

I had one in my old car and keep meaning to buy it for my new setup.

u/jimmt42 · 3 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Some put it on the front of the cab below the control deck. You will have to find a way to mount it so it stays. I put a shelf in mine. Doing that you could easily set it on the shelf as a way to mount it.

Another option is to do the volume mod and use the existing volume control to do mute/low/high ( *I'm posting how to do this with ODROID/Retro Arena soon.

Finally, what I'm doing is I ordered this: PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller and either going to replace the volume switch with this or put it under the control deck.

Hope this helps :)

u/TactFully · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You almost definitely don't need an external DAC. If the one built-in to your PC or laptop doesn't have audible noise or other issues, it's essentially a waste of money. And cheap integrated DACs, as long as the implementation isn't screwed up, can be transparent to big dollar ones... it's the absolute last place to spend money when trying to improve audio quality - far behind speakers, room treatments, and source file quality.

I personally am wary of the LSR 308s. Noaudiophile (/u/strategicdeceiver) is working on their review and has mentioned many times now that the large enclosure is too paper-thin and makes it sound worse than the 305s.

You could spend the extra money on an analog potentiometer for proper and convenient volume control. Something like this, or an Emotiva control freak, or Schiit sys.

u/EmLeingod · 3 pointsr/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

u/kethera__ · 3 pointsr/vintageaudio

I had to ground everything to everything:

Alternatively, you can isolate the phono with one of these transformers:

u/swervicus_rex · 3 pointsr/ProAudiovisual

Seems to make sense to me, just make sure whatever you are tapping your speakers can be supported by your amp. (I typically give it a 2.0 Safety Factor for power.) Try to avoid sharing outlets of your audio system with anything else (like PC or other appliances.) If you do, you may need one (or more) ground loop isolators

Good luck, building a speaker setup, like a PC is a great learning experience!

u/troublesville · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I have a 1993 MR2 that I've installed a (somewhat period correct) Nakamichi MB-75 in. I got it NIB off eBay because I always wanted one. I'll probably upgrade to something more modern soon, but it looks awesome in the dash. It sounds great when the car is in accessory mode, but...


Onto my moronic questions: The power steering pump is electric on the MR2 and the HU makes a significant whurring noise as a result. Things I've tried:

  • It's definitely the power steering pump as I disconnected its power and the noise stopped.
  • I've isolated the noise to the HU -- if I run RCAs directly to the frunk (front trunk) mounted amps (ACM-4.300 and ACM-1.300), they don't have any noise.
  • I've tried grounding everything to the frame (ground wire, chassis, antenna) and different grounding points. It has no effect.
  • I ran power directly from the battery to check that with no effect.

    I ordered some of these noise isolators to try as they are cheap:


    Any other ideas? Would a DSP take that noise out? I am ready to stab my eyeballs out with this project.
u/DarkMain · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Are the speakers powered? (have their own power that plugs into the wall)

Without actually hearing the sound I'm just guessing but you might be suffering from a ground loop.

A simple ground loop isolator may fix the problem.

(this is just an example, not a recommendation as it's the first that popped up in search).

u/crackhyeyeon · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Like this:

It was the only thing that stopped random feedback noises on my older car.

u/mazdapi · 3 pointsr/mazda3

I have a 2008 Mazda3 too. I'm an engineer with audio experience, so hopefully you find this helpful.

If you're using the stock sound system, this device will work fine; it's a ground loop isolator. With the stock sound system, the frequency cutoff is hardly noticeable - even if you are using the AUX IN with a high grade, insulated cable and lossless audio.


If you're going to upgrade the audio system, chances are that the installer will properly ground the audio components, mitigating the issue.

I used the GLI on my stock sound system for 7 years. When I upgraded the tweeters, speakers, and head-unit, I no longer experienced the electrical noise.

u/shortyjacobs · 3 pointsr/nexus6

That's a ground loop issue. I'm assuming you are sending audio to your radio with an AUX jack.

The charger will be referencing one ground, which will become the "ground" for the audio signal. The radio ground will be at a slightly different potential, though, because the radio ground could be from a slightly different part of the car than the cig lighter ground.

Because of the mismatch, the radio "reference" of ground is thrown off, and you get a whine.

If you really care about it, this sucker, or similar, works wonders. I use one of these between my HTPC and stereo for the same reason at home.

It takes up space in the car, but usually you can tuck it out of the way. It's the size half an altoids tin, so not huge. I actually went into my panel and installed it between the aux jack and stereo in my car for a "cleaner" look.

u/nolimitsoldier · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

That is a ground loop and normal.


u/PaulMezz · 3 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

I had a similar issue and got one of these. Worked perfect. Not as much macgyver of course...

u/stonehands_on_reddit · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Sounds like a ground loop; I had a similar issue daisy-chaining some Astro Mixamps. Put something like this between your 3.5mm cable and your PC: PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator

Best of luck -- unwanted noise is terrible!

u/Trevmizer · 3 pointsr/nexus6
u/spaceminions · 3 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

Yes, but you can buy a "ground loop isolator" for $10 that is made to eliminate that sort of problem.

u/Cockur · 3 pointsr/synthesizers

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

u/joshq68 · 3 pointsr/GalaxyS7

I bought this guy off of amazon Ground Loop Noise Isolator I use it for my sirius player and phone aux cord, and it silences the hiss for me.

u/TacticalBacon00 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

A ground loop isolator should solve your problem. I stream video games on twitch and I have 3 of these in my setup. It clears up electrical interference from un-grounded electrical equipment, which is why your speakers don't have the sound and your headphones do.

u/Scalla1384 · 3 pointsr/SoundBlasterOfficial

Both g6 and astro need to be hooked up via usb. Then run your headset to the g6. Then an aux cord from the g6 line out (might be line in, I forget) to a ground loop like this

Then connect the male end of that ground loop into the astro tr headset jack (where your headphones used to plug in) and that's it. Should have no issues controlling audio mix while having the benefits of the G6 for in game sound, music and movies.

u/smithdorm · 3 pointsr/Nexus5

I have a Flexsmart in my car, since I have no aux-in and I installed a Belkin in my wife's since she does have an aux port. They both work well, however the Belkin does sound better and seems to connect more reliably than the Flexsmart.

u/miatamanreturns · 3 pointsr/mazda3

I used this guy for that and it was great. I stuck the little puck over the cigarette lighter hole and ran the wiring under the console and up into the storage compartment to connect to the 12V and aux there. You'll need a ground loop isolator as well otherwise as you RWC you'll hear alternator whine, something like

u/WillsMyth · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Get this. I've had it for over a year in my Cadillac and it works perfectly. Whenever you hop in just push the button and it's ready. The built in mic makes the speaker phone flawless too.

Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version

u/YoderinLanc · 3 pointsr/lancaster

I just did this a couple months ago in my girlfriends car. She just bought a 2007 Honda Accord which did not have an input, so I installed one for her birthday. It's super easy. Note: The 2003 is the same setup as the 2007.

u/klevenisms204 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

i think you can get a better subwoofer, but thats just my opinion..

but in answering your question of what wires... may as well just go with that knukonceptz 4 ga kit ...

u/HungryhippoSalad · 3 pointsr/headphones

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.


I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.


I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

u/servedconserved · 3 pointsr/intelnuc

You can get an inexpensive audio noise isolation transformer, like this one, I had noise from my laptop to my stereo and the audio isolation transformer eliminated all of it. It's a classic ground loop issue that causes the noise.

u/warinthestars · 3 pointsr/audio

You, my friend, have a ground loop problem. When you touch the connector, you are grounding the signal.

Have a look at this

u/EdmanFTW · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Because the Switch is technically charging while docked, and you have an auxiliary coming out if it, you will get that buzzing sound. Notice that when you undock it, the buzzing sound goes away.

It's the same thing that some people go through when charging their phones in a car at the same time they have an aux plugged in, they get the buzzing sound(only in certain cars).

Your best bet, if you don't mind paying, is to get a Ground Loop Noise Islolator. Here is one that I found. Unfortunately, your speaker needs to have an aux input or this will be useless to you :/. I'm looking to buy this later this week, as my monitor doesn't have speakers, but I do have speakers on my desk that have an aux input. Good Luck!!!

u/deftdrummer · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

Yep, I have an idea if you're willing to spend $8 to rule it out.

You need to purchase a Ground Loop Noise Isolator which you can then try with each of your various devices.

If none of them exhibit static at that point, then you've determined that indeed there is some faulty grounding or shielding in the components of the phone. At that point it's time for a return to Google if you can under warranty.

If you don't have static with the one pair of headphones that tells me the components are solid in that pair. The other components may be the weak link but you need to rule out the phone first.

The ground loop noise isolator also has self evident uses wherever else you may have this problem. I use one in my car for example.

Good luck.

u/rhinofinger · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I tried all kinds of things recommended here and in the wiki. Could never get USB audio to work properly or finding settings that made the onboard audio bearable.

Ultimately ended up buying this $8 in-line ground loop noise isolator and I couldn't be happier. It works - no more noise! And no config files to dig through :)

u/Jeritens · 3 pointsr/piano

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable and then set up audio playback in your sound settings

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

u/anyones_ghost27 · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

Yep, I have a nifty $20 Bluetooth adapter for my old car and it works very very well. My phone always connects as soon as I turn on the car. I do recommend getting the anti-feedback ground loop noise isolator thingy if you're using an aux port, though.

u/dpirmann · 3 pointsr/audiorepair

Im pretty sure ground loop isolation is going to be the right answer. EDIT - especially since you say it works fine with headphones


Here's another one that works well and is cheap:

u/silvab · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You have a ground loop problem, get a $10 isolator.

Here's the one I have:

People telling you this makes no sense don't realize ("why not just use docked hdmi audio...") that you might prefer undocked play in your living room + big sound, even more so when zelda makes me feel like i'm going deaf while using headphones

u/MutatedSpleen · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Ground loop isolator.

That's the exact one I picked up for a similar situation. Works pretty well.

u/rich-creamery-butter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

What kind of noise are you hearing? Is it only present when you have your charger plugged in?

Switch-mode power supplies almost always switch at frequencies far above audible, though there could be lower harmonics in the audible range. Are you listening to music over Bluetooth or with an aux cable/cassette adapter? In the latter case there might be some weird ground loop going on that causes noise.

In any case the first thing I'd try is a different USB charger to see if the problem persists. For phone purposes a linear charger would dissipate something like 7 Watts for 1A charging, double for 2A. That's quite a lot of heat. The "usual" figure of 500mA would give 3.5 Watts which is manageable.

Have you pulled the charger apart? Have any pictures or a link to your specific charger?

If you suspect the charger as a source of noise you could try adding a ferrite bead to the charge cable.

u/pretzelpup · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

Try adding a ferrite toroid to the power cable. I had to do this in my car. Cleared the signal right up.

It’s caused by signal noise from the power line to camera interfering with the radio frequency.

u/RichestMangInBabylon · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I've been using one of these for broadcasting bluetooth audio from my switch. It works pretty well. If you do that and get some persistent buzzing get a ground loop isolator.

It would be ideal if the Switch just had bluetooth audio to begin with, but this has been an okay solution for me so far.

u/dapperkitty · 3 pointsr/smashbros

Depends on the type of headset you have.

For example: I have a logitech g933. It is a wireless one that uses a usb bluetooth dongle. On the top of the bluetooth dongle is an aux port, and there's an aux port on my monitor that I put smash on. Now in order to get audio for me, all I have to do is use an aux cable, plug it into my dongle, and then into my monitor, however you will hear a low buzz or hum.
In order to remove this, you need to plug your aux cable into a Ground Loop Isolator
That will remove the buzz and hum, and will make it so the audio you get from your monitor (the one you are playing smash on) is clear and clean.

That's just my headset though. Someone else did a handy guide on how they set it up, with pictures.

Hope this helps

u/redheadwes · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Piling on to agree. I play mostly docked through a monitor with no audio output, so I've always got headphones in while docked. Definitely got some buzzing/feedback, but solved it with this isolator and have had no problems since.

u/Dart06 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Important to note that if you DO do this method you might have some crackle from the Switch. That's because Nintendo is incompetent and doesn't use high quality parts for their headphone connector.

If you do have that crackle/static, you can get around it by using one of these.

u/ADubs62 · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

I would take a look at this.

With a USB-A<--> C cable you can charge your phone, then connect via bluetooth to the adapter which will push the audio through the aux jack of your car. Should work way better than any Audio-->Radio transmitter.

u/Soccers56 · 3 pointsr/iphone

Something like this is what I have:

Mpow Bluetooth Receiver Car, Hands-Free Car Kits/Bluetooth AUX Car Adapter 3 in 1 Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP)

Powered by USB though a standard car DC port

u/Drayzen · 3 pointsr/Android

Buy this.

Your call will have bluetooth. You will get serviceable handsfree calling, as well as the ability to play music when you enter your car w/o wires on your phone.

u/CMDR_Smotheryzorf · 3 pointsr/Wrangler

If you don't want to do a whole receiver install. I bought this about a year ago. Plugs into the auxiliary port, then you Bluetooth your phone it. It's also got an extra slot for charging.

TaoTronics Bluetooth Car Kit, Bluetooth Receiver, Bluetooth 4.2 Hands-Free Audio Adapter (Built-in Microphone, CVC 6.0 Noise Cancellation, 3M Magnetic Base, Air Vent Clip, Dual 2.1A USB Car Charger)

u/abezzilla99 · 3 pointsr/oneplus

You can either use a usb-c to 3.5mm adapter and go back to using an the aux cord or you could use something like I've linked below. Adds bluetooth functionality to your aux port. I personally use an fm transmitter (roav brand has been the best in my experience) but I know static can be an issue like you said.


u/testingapril · 3 pointsr/mazdaspeed3

My 09 ms3 GT does not have bluetooth from the factory, but it does have an aux jack, so I used something like this to add it

u/FunMonkeyDisease · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

FM adapters have pretty crappy audio quality, especially if your car has an aux port already.

Something like would be a much better option.

u/Jonec429 · 3 pointsr/Android

They have Bluetooth adapters for cars. I use one and honestly it works well.

This isn't the one I use a it same concept.

TaoTronics Bluetooth Car Kit, Bluetooth Receiver, Bluetooth 4.2 Hands-Free Audio Adapter (Built-in Microphone, CVC 6.0 Noise Cancellation, 3M Magnetic Base, Air Vent Clip, Dual 2.1A USB Car Charger)

u/divbyzero_ · 3 pointsr/Miata

Or the cheapest, simplest solution: a Bluetooth to FM radio adapter that plugs into the cigarette lighter. They cost under $20 and work surprisingly well for both phone calls and music/audiobooks. Here's mine:

u/Fxank · 3 pointsr/iphone

I’ve been using this Bluetooth transmitter since April and it hasn’t given me any issues since

u/MkVsTheWorld · 3 pointsr/tasker

Does your car have an auxiliary input (3.5mm jack)? If it does, then you can get something like this adapter to use it for Smart Lock and for calls or to stream music wirelessly.

u/z6joker9 · 3 pointsr/apple

Actually I have a Pontiac but it's just a factory radio with an AUX input. I tried a few aftermarket stereos over the years trying to find the right level of iPhone integration, but finally settled on the Kinivo BTC450 and it works great and should be somewhat futureproof. I ran the wires so it's reasonably integrated looking.

In case anyone is trying to figure it out, I added an extra 12v accessory behind the dash to hide the plug, then added a usb extension so the USB port in the plug isn't wasted (the extension pops up beside my seat). I did need the Ground Loop Isolator that so many mention in the reviews.

Edit: I also forgot to mention that Siri was difficult to hear until I changed a setting that made her not speak unless over Bluetooth. For some reason that made her speak over bluetooth at a higher volume. Almost remember you can adjust her volume while she's speaking using the volume keys.

u/tman2damax11 · 3 pointsr/iphone

I just got a dedicated Bluetooth cassette tape:

It's awesome that you don't even know it's there and the battery lasts like 1.5 months.

u/elizle · 3 pointsr/technology
Works great, just gotta keep noise going through it if you're in a ford or it will start auto-seeking.

u/Uzrathixius · 3 pointsr/cars

FM transmistters are garbage. However, I swear by this; a bluetooth casette adapter.

You could always use a wired one; but I've had little luck with those.

u/OrcusTG · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Then i wouldnt worry about it, occasionally some cars come with a stock sub on the roof of the trunk. heres the link also are you doing it yourself? It might be a hassle but i did it myself too just watch a lot of videos.

u/kstrike155 · 3 pointsr/Audi

Take a look at XCarLink. People on Audizine have used it.

You can easily get bluetooth streaming with your factory head unit using a CoolStream or Tune2Air 1000 (if you have the factory iPod cable) or Tune2Air 3000 (if you don't).

u/Barrenhammer · 3 pointsr/Audi

Yes you need a vcds cable to get to the hidden menu. I don't know about activating Bluetooth through that, but here is what I use.

ViseeO Bovee WMA3000A Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (AMI/MDI connector)

u/mccak · 3 pointsr/MINI

I used to use aux for playing music and recently I bought this bluetooth device which is special for MINI and BMW. It's bit pricey but very useful. I don't have to plug any cables to my phone except if I want to charge it. Also, you can use the bluetooth on your car for phone calls and this device for music at the same time. It also displays song info on the cars radio, if you have an iphone.

Edit: I use a cig. lighter usb charger to charge my phone since the usb on the car is very weak for charging.

u/maximum1001 · 3 pointsr/prius

I have a 2010 as well and it has an aux input port in the center console between the two front seats. It's towards the back. I got this for mine and it works great:

Or you can just use an aux cable.

u/TheDanMonster · 3 pointsr/Android

I have this. It works unbelievably well.

u/Albort · 3 pointsr/iphone

i have one of these. they will route your phone calls to the speakers and the receiver is a mic. If u dont like the brand, there are a ton out there.

u/AeroJammin · 3 pointsr/MINI

First thing you need is an OEM aux input

aux input

Then I picked up a Bluetooth module off Amazon and I have been enjoying Bluetooth audio in my '06

Aukey Bluetooth connection
Amazon link

I like this Bluetooth device because it turns off and on with the car and automatically connects to the phone. Plus it came with a 3port USB charger (one port is quick charge)

u/Bakenators · 3 pointsr/letsplay

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

u/jmc0889 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

This fixed my mic buzzing issue when I had my remote plugged in so maybe it could help you. So long as your headset is a 3.5mm one of course.

u/See-Phor · 3 pointsr/battlestations

They are the Eris E5 and they don't have a hiss problem. They used to buzz when I plugged them straight into my motherboard with a RCA to 3.5mm cable without a ground loop isolator. Now I have them go into a schiit modi 2 and have no problems. If you want to use your motherboard, I recommend using a group loop isolator like this:

u/kevster0522 · 3 pointsr/Saturn_Cars

It's called a ground loop and happens on many vehicles. Easiest fix is to use a ground loop isolator like this one.

u/thisdude415 · 2 pointsr/gaybros

It was a dick joke... I've got a stock Honda Accord, and I added this nifty little bluetooth adapter to give myself bluetooth capability.

u/JFreaks25 · 2 pointsr/Android

I had the same problem, somebody recommended this and its awesome

u/Kirbybajerby · 2 pointsr/IAmA

If auto makers no longer installed FM radios in new cars, do you think FM radio will die?

BTW I use this bluetooth adapter to my car stereo and it's awesome!

u/bobzor · 2 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I just bought this one and I really love it. But you likely will need to purchase a ground loop noise isolater to prevent that high-pitched wheeze you get when you plug something into your car.

u/trippingchilly · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Anyone have experience using bluetooth cassette adapters for the car?

Wondering if it would be better than an aux tape adapter.

u/Captain_Alaska · 2 pointsr/Android

>They do however have a cassette deck for which I can buy a cheap adapter that I permanently keep in the deck.

Now you're just trying to inconvenience yourself. You can buy a aux to whatever adapter and leave it on the end of the cassette adapter or leave it in the glove box. You can buy a bluetooth cassette tape. You can buy a bluetooth to aux adapter and throw it on the end of the cassette adapter and not have to plug anything at all in, plus get the bonus of being able to change tracks without digging into the phone and answer calls without touching the phone.

Or, considering it's old enough for cassette it's probably a DIN or Double DIN slot, so save up a bit of coin and for your/her birthday and splurge on a nice relitevely cheap CarPlay/AA radio and get a whole load of benifits like Navigation.

u/Redditors_Cat · 2 pointsr/Showerthoughts

Oh I misread. I thought he was talking about those cassette tapes that bring Bluetooth to a regular tape deck, similar to the ones that have an aux cord built in.

Edit: this is what I thought he was referring to.

u/procupine14 · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

They have ones now that let you stream over bluetooth

Behold the glory!

u/hab136 · 2 pointsr/iphone

> Is there a Bluetooth to cassette deck adapter?


But seriously, if your car radio is so old that it doesn't even have Bluetooth, you should buy a new car radio instead of a new phone.

u/JimCuda · 2 pointsr/pics

Bluetooth tape adapter. I use it in my Jeep and works surprisingly well.

u/Hazza42 · 2 pointsr/apple

If you've got an old fashioned tape deck then this witchcraft should have you covered. Has a built in microphone for calls too apparently.

I'm actually interested what kind of sound quality you can get out of one of these.

u/jetsonian · 2 pointsr/technews

This is the other way. This plays tapes and transmits the audio over Bluetooth. What you need is one of these. I used to have a pair that I would swap out when the battery got low. The sound quality is great and it turns on when the tape head touches it so it doesn’t have to be turned on and off.

u/sop1232 · 2 pointsr/cars

if your car has a tape player you can get a bluetooth cassette like this

u/deeteeohbee · 2 pointsr/changemyview

Can you link me to the one you got him? The one I saw had the micro-usb port on the front side of the tape as opposed to one of the ends so you couldn't really charge it in while it was in the deck. If I could it charge while it stayed in the deck I would be over the moon.


Actually this one has the plug on the end:

I worry that the actual plug itself will not let the tape lower into operating position once it has been pushed into the deck... I'll have to read some reviews, thanks for the heads up!

edit again

I think I'll be able to take the thing apart and wire up an external charging cable. It's got to be better than the wired tape adapter I'm suffering with now.

u/loki1887 · 2 pointsr/Music

They got them all built in one now.

u/ReeceChambersIV · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Besides the usual safety things like a jack or window smasher I would get a cassette to Bluetooth insert like this or a cassette to aux like this the radio isn’t much fun and you can then play your own music. I think a name that kinda comes naturally will end up being more meaningful than a forced one from the internet.

u/EnviousXylophone · 2 pointsr/JUSTNOMIL

You can, actually! There's a microphone in the adapter that you can pull out and it will dangle from the tape deck. It's pretty cool:

u/willmusto · 2 pointsr/Android

I just use a regular cassette tape auxiliary adapter right now.

These are supposed to be pretty nice, though:

u/Brandicus · 2 pointsr/CarAV

got this for my wife for xmas and she loves it, cheap elegant solution that adds no wires anywhere:

do recommend you get two after awhile so you can have one ready and charged with less hassle. Remember to remove the film from the roller/reader thing before using for improved sound quality. Cheers!

u/Satanbakesale · 2 pointsr/KGATLW

Yo! ION Audio Cassette Adapter Bluetooth | Bluetooth Music Receiver for Cassette Decks

I've had one for more than a year and it work perfectly! Wayyy better than a fm transmitter

u/AccountNo43 · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles
u/funk_your_face · 2 pointsr/iphone

I got this one. I've only had it for about a week but the sound quality is good.

u/faerygrrrl22 · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles

This is what I use. You just have to remember to charge it.

u/bbsqrl · 2 pointsr/BMWE36

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

u/ShtDaHllUpMarguerite · 2 pointsr/civic

You have the option to use one of these:
You can daisy chain from your rear speakers or splice into the speaker wire. This device will convert that rear speaker line into an RCA line so you can run an amp. They work really well, the downside is that your sub woofer controls will be affected by any changes you make to the rear speakers. But if you play with the amp, I'm sure you'll be happy with the result. And yes, your rear speakers will work as normal.

u/the_blue_wizard · 2 pointsr/audio

If the Technics Amp does not have PRE-AMP output, then this gets difficult. It can probably be done, but it is unclear how well it will work.

There are Speaker Level to Line Level (RCA) converters that are meant of car stereos. But they might work for you.

Though search AMAZON for "speaker level to line level converter" though be aware that it doesn't always return the correct products. But you will see some similar to those above.

If you are willing to seek alternatives, then give us a working budget for those alternatives.

Also important, what is the source of your sound? TV? Turntable? Computer? CD Player? Network Streaming? Other? All of the above? None of the above?

I'm guessing absolute minimum for an alternative solutions is going to be in the $50 to $100 range. But to make those suggestions we need to know what is going into the system in terms of sources of sound. And we need a clear declaration of your working budget.

u/1_64493406685 · 2 pointsr/FiestaST

I think it all depends on what your goal for the vehicle is? Do you plan on tracking it? or just to make it a bit faster around town? Do you want it to look a little modified or stock?

Anyways, I'll link a bunch of stuff I personally prefer and in the order I would install them...


u/bigblackcouch · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Cool, that helps a lot thanks, I was hesitant about finding straight adapter cables for it. :) I do use my headphone port so I was looking to have something in the backside, I ordered this little booger after checking out a few different ones, the next best one recommended was $100 more, so...I'll try this first.

If it blows the speakers, well that would suck but I guess that's just how it goes.

u/PioneerStandard · 2 pointsr/audiophile

What you are saying is that you have only an amplified subwoofer out on your amplifier that drives a passive unit only? Your subwoofer does not have speaker level inputs?

Well you can purchase a line level converter and adjust it according for a high impedance low signal input amplified subwoofer unit.

Like this

In your case just use one half of the stereo converter and ignore the other side. There are many versions available in all price ranges.

u/treonetre · 2 pointsr/Audi

I bought one of these and it's been working well:

The only problem is it's an either-or situation, you can't answer phone calls on the MMI bluetooth if you're currently using the adapter.

u/pap3rw8 · 2 pointsr/Audi

I use an adapter called Tune2Air and it plugs right in to the AMI. It works great for me with both android and iPhone (with wifi off). The track info shows on the dash and skip buttons work even with Google Play Music on my iPhone. It works more reliably than a Lightning cable, and the occasional hiccup can be solved by reconnecting.

I got it in amazon, it was under $65.
Here: ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000A Bluetooth Adapter

I can pretty much guarantee that a normal USB dongle wouldn't work at all.

u/PntBtrHtr · 2 pointsr/Audi

This has worked great in my 09 A4
ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000A Bluetooth Adapter

u/p94 · 2 pointsr/Audi

Get a Tune2Air. Will allow 2 connections to phone, one for calling and one for music. I have it and it works great.

As to why it allows one but not the other, there are different protocols for calling and streaming with bluetooth - unfortunately your Audi only came with the options for the calling protocol.

u/the_JCru · 2 pointsr/Audi

I’ve got this Bluetooth adapter in my 2011 Q5! I love it! It allows the MMI to still control the music and works seamlessly!

[](Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector)

u/edrawwrr · 2 pointsr/cars

Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector)

I would actually recommend this one

u/thataverageguymike · 2 pointsr/BMW

OP - Here's a link to this on Amazon in case you are having trouble finding it. This is the only product that I've seen that accomplishes what you're going for.

I opted for a $5 version that doesn't support steering wheel controls or song display and will upgrade my head unit in the future.

u/Hyperbole13 · 2 pointsr/MINI

I bought this ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000B Bluetooth Adapter to stream music as mine lacked Bluetooth streaming. You can stream Spotify or iTunes and works really great.

u/My_feedbackWork · 2 pointsr/BMW

Haven't tried it personally, but heard good things about this.

u/mini6284 · 2 pointsr/MINI

I feel your pain with the 2009 nav unit, you are right that installing another din will leave it blank along with limited options for all the other stuff that is displayed, error messages, trip computer etc. after a lot of research, found it is easier to leave it in.

I don't have one, but for stearing wheel controls everyone seems to like (this)[]

on my newer r56 without nav, I gave up on steering wheel controls use the phone mounted to the cd slot via (magnet)[] and a cheaper bluetooth aux with microphone. call quality seems to be better, and as it is a lot quicker for most tasks than the brake / idrive controls, even the steering wheel can't change aps and songs as quick with phone mounted right on the cd player slot.

u/LtCmdrBuzzKillington · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I bought one of these for my 2013 Mini

Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for BMW and Mini Coopers - Android and iPhone Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000B USB / AUX connector)

The steering wheel controls and title text display are pretty buggy, but the audio always works!

If you find something better I’d love to know about it.

u/Phombus · 2 pointsr/MINI

I had a gen 2 mini with only the 30pin radio cable. This allowed my iphone to connect via bluetooth and then could access the music via ipod controls in the radio...

u/edgemaster191 · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I have this SoundBot in my car, it works great with my Pixel.

u/Quaternions_FTW · 2 pointsr/tasker

Well, I'm not sure if this will help you, but I'll share my setup. I use the SoundBot SB360 which is like $16.00.

It plugs into auxiliary jack, so you could definitely use the tape deck with a female-female 3.5mm collar.

I only have a cd player (no cassette/auxiliary/rca) so I found a guide where I soldered the wires into the cd audio out and play a "silent cd".

My 12v power (cigarette lighter) is always powered on, so for a while, I would just hit the button on the SB360 (turn it on) and it would connect to my phone and launch my tasks.

I recently looked up the specs on my car and found there was a power wire that only comes on when you start the car, so I wired into that.

When my phone connects to the Bluetooth it launches "car mode".

"Car mode" changes "car_mode" variable to "1", stores current volume in a variable, stores current screen brightness in a variable, turns wifi off, turns volume to max, dismisses dangerous audio levels warning, turns screen brightness to max, launches linkme: Torque, Car DashDroid, CaroO Pro (Dashcam & OBD), Waze, Podcast & Radio Addict. Then it plays the podcast.

Not sure if any of this is relevant, I just wanted to share :)

u/NoMugshots · 2 pointsr/Lexus

I own a 1999 RX300 and it too only has a cassette slot. All i did was get a cassette AUX adapter, a female to female 3.5mm coupler, and a Bluetooth AUX adapter. Now I can play my music through my cassette via bluetooth.

I currently use: SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

I honestly can not tell a difference between using the AUX directly compared to using bluetooth. Hope this helps.

u/Joeskyyy · 2 pointsr/iphone

I've got a 2000 Wranger TJ that I absolutely refuse to make any modifications to the "look" of the head unit, however I do have a modified head unit with an AUX input that has been adapted into it.

Found this today:

Seems like it'll do the trick for me (:

u/bengineered · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

Yes, it would require power. Some receivers have batteries that need to be recharged, others just need to be plugged in via USB (which is NBD for me, since I always have a car charger for my phone anyways).

I've been using the SB360 for the last couple years and I've been quite happy with it, as have the other people who I've recommended it to.

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

u/totesmadoge · 2 pointsr/hondafit

Bluetooth phone kit (I've got this one in my '09) or plug straight into aux.

u/horrorslice · 2 pointsr/oneplus

It's powered by DC to USB. Sorry I was clear about it before. It uses a low power port, and still leaves room for the QC.

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

u/Scoobs93 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I've been using the SoundBot SB 360

I use Jaybird's walking to my car (I park 15 minutes off campus to avoid paying) and as soon as I start the engine my music resumes through the car. Connects very quickly, a little clunky when changing devices when a friend wants to connect though. But I think this will fit your criteria.

u/ziggo0 · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I've got an old headunit that I can't let go of. It does have an AUX but it gets annoying dealing with unplugging/replugging in. I use these at work and finally bought one for my car - simple and amazing device. Hands free even works great for phone calls. Just take care on it's mounting location and you cannot go wrong.

u/Thetechguru_net · 2 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

I have tried many Bluetooth to 3.5mm adapters, some cheap, some very expensive. All have been fine for playing music, but the only one that has had a microphone as good as my Motorola Roadster BT speaker is this one. SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0

u/munn3y · 2 pointsr/veloster

I have a ‘15 and I honestly haven’t been able to find a good Bluetooth adapter. I’ve tried FM ones, a little soundbot one, and nothing sounds as good as just straight aux cord so that’s what I’ve settled on. My girlfriend has this one and I tried it in my car but there’s static almost always.

u/Firehed · 2 pointsr/MINI

Nice. I have one of these which works well but it's the same as using the AUX jack (sound only, no steering wheel playback control). Might be worth an upgrade, despite the price.

u/jaxbotme · 2 pointsr/leaf

As others have said, the S model does not allow bluetooth music streaming. That being said, you can use something like this to turn the aux port into a bluetooth streaming listener and get the same effect, just with a little more hardware and cables.

u/Auspicion · 2 pointsr/Acura

It plugs into the aux port and runs off a battery. You'll have to manually hold the button for about 2-3 sec to turn it on, but it'll automatically turn off so you won't waste power. I'd recommend it for cars that don't have Bluetooth connectivity. However, I'd stick with the stock Bluetooth that comes with your car, despite the audio lag imo.

If you prefer that it automatically turns on with your car, you can check this model out.

u/-TheDoctor · 2 pointsr/mazda

I have this one in my 08 Mazda 3 i Sport and it turns on and off with the car. It works great, with good sound as far as bluetooth goes.

u/solbrothers · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

it wouldn't be an FM transmitter if it plugged into the aux jack. It'd be a blutooth receiver.

I have this one and I love it. Works perfect in my 2007 Honda Fit with stock headunit.

u/SodlidDesu · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I have one of these and have had it for about a year now. It works pretty damn well if I do say. It only really controls forward, backward and hang up on calls and I would recommend a ground loop isolator as well.

No, you won't get audiophile sound or full steering wheel controls but it's a damn nice upgrade for $20-30.

u/tvtoo · 2 pointsr/tmobile

Have you considered Bluetooth? If your car has an AUX (3.5mm, headphone) input but no built-in Bluetooth....

Here's a well-rated very small $22 Aukey Bluetooth-to-3.5mm device that would let you control Siri and music (skip song, repeat song) from a small paddle:

If you don't care about the Siri button or repeat/skip song, here are some cheap Bluetooth-to-3.5mm that work fine for streaming music for $2-$5, from US sellers on ebay.

And here's a fantastic Bose $70 one:

u/Teknofiliak · 2 pointsr/CarAV

If you have a 3.5mm jack, I bought this for my wife and it works very well.

u/HarryMonster · 2 pointsr/apple

I use this at the moment. Works great!

u/BigBuffalo757 · 2 pointsr/Moto_Z

This is what I have in my car. Have had it for 6 months and I've had 0 issues. 4.3 stars on Amazon. Pretty straight forward.

Plug in the power source into the USB adapter and then plug the 3.5mm jack into your AUX port. Whenever the car will power on it will turn on this receiver and search to pair with your phone. As long as your phone's bluetooth is on it will pair in the amount of time it takes for you to put on your seatbelt and get settled.

u/the_flying_pussyfoot · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

You can try using a Ground Loop Noise Isolator but YMMV.

It sounds like some sort of interference during calls through the aux cable when in calls.

Here's one for an example. It's fairly cheap

u/PerplexVisionz · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You want a ground loop isolator plugged into the switch, then run your cable from it to the PC.

That will get rid of the interference.

u/dj_soo · 2 pointsr/Beatmatch

you could also try a ground loop isolator for your cable.

u/goodhur · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

It is a ground loop that causes that. Unfortunately most dual power USB chargers will do this, you also will find it on Battery powered Bluetooth speakers where you use the charging port to power a Chromecast audio.

You'll need something like this

Edit: I have not personally tried the Kensington one. I couldn't find the one that I have on the Amazon UK site.
You may find it on eBay. Here it is:

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

First, you probably don't need the gain set to 10 on the monitors. Try reducing it to 0, set the PC to 100% and then slowly increase the gain on the monitors to about as loud as you would ever want it. This helps attenuate any noise induced into the signal picked up along the way.

Next, try plugging the monitors into the same power strip as the PC to reduce any ground potential between the devices.

Finally, if the above did not help enough you will want to isolate the ground between the two devices. The cheapest way to do this safely is with a line level isolator like this. They however have been known to affect the sound quality a bit since they add a cheap transformer in the signal path to block any DC on the line.

u/Azimalicous · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I believe you need feedback loop isolation. I had to use this in my car with a USB powered 3.5 Bluetooth audio dongle to enable wireless music in my car. I was getting alternator whine through my speakers until i used this device.

I would also try to plug in the USB on the speakers to a USB ac outlet and see if you get the same feedback. It would be a good way to know wihtout having to buy something (assuming you already have an AC USB adapter).

u/Yggsdrazl · 2 pointsr/WhitePeopleTwitter

> get a high pitched noise from interference


u/NachosConCarne · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

A ground loop isolator should be able to fix that for you. Just plug it in between the aux connection and your PC.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/TimeRocker · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You could try using a ground loop maybe. I had a weird static sound with my previous audio setup and this fixed it for me -

u/hofnbricl · 2 pointsr/Moto_Z

Hey, I've had the same problem with this phone and others. If I use the aux out on the dock without power I get fine sound, but when I plug it in the quality drops. If I charge with the port on the phone the audio is better. Apparently, a ground loop isolater can fix the issue, but I haven't tried. If you use the dock a lot, it might be worth it to try the isolater.

u/Monkeyfeng · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

Get this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

I got it for my car to get rid of the static

u/delightfulmistake · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Analog jacks almost always have some noise, especially if the gain (master volume) is turned all the way up on the computer. Try some USB or Bluetooth headphones, you'll never go back.

If you have to stick with analog headphones, you might consider a ground loop isolator.

u/mr_mooses · 2 pointsr/MINI


2005 cooper s, r53, 70k miles.
Replaced my oem aux cable, with another oem (through from ebay) because my original one developed a short and would cut left audio out completely, super annoying.

I unplugged the old, plugged in the new and it showed up just fine. Tested it with music and all good. Put everything back together and drove to cumbys and it worked. Next morning, start navigation and music all good, then go to plug my phone into power and the aux disconnects. I almost always have my phone plugged in when in the car, so the aux connection was really almost never on. searched around on nam, or asked fbook forum and discovered someone else who had similar problem with the aux magically disappearing.

Something with the ground for the radio and the cig lighter being on the same circuit, or idk. But i tested it again knowing what to look for and yeah, everytime i plugged my phone into power (not just the cig lighter, but the plug into my phone) the aux would disappear from the radio options.

adding a ground loop isolator to the aux cable completely fixed it for me.

u/Preclude · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these.
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these:
Also this:
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA:

u/budders894 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

like this?

I have L,R coming out of the amp, into a female 3.5mm jack.. Then I have Male 3.5mm to L,R Male going into the cable box.. Where would this plug in with my setup?

also, what about this? Any other cheap things like that around?

Found these two as well: not sure witch one i should go with though :/

u/applevinegar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Any headphone amp can do the job if you have one. Otherwise the Schiit sys has nice aesthetics: but a passive volume control such as this will work:

Sound quality with monitors is going to be leaps and bounds better than the other two, even if they're close together.

u/BreakfastHarvey · 2 pointsr/malelivingspace

I think one of the issues I ran into was when I had speakers connected to the subwoofer - I had no way to control the volume. besides the tiny knob on the back - which is very annoying to have to reach for every time the mood strike. It does not seem like I have an option for one of these either. Would one of these fix that? Would this control the sub and any speakers running through the sub?

The way it is now - when i turn down the volume on the receive all the speakers turn down with it - but the sub is on its own control

I wish I could use something this somehow?

u/thesneakywalrus · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Looks cheap because it is. It'll work just fine.

u/asindragon · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I bought this to do volume control PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller I actually attached it to the back so my kids wouldn't mess with the volume but it's great i turned it to the max then adjusted the amp to a level I thought was the threshold of loudness.

u/Flubberding · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

What you're looking for is an audio interface. Like /u/ANeedForUsername said, the 2i2 is very popular. I use a 2i4 myself to drive my JBL LSR305's and the sound is amazing. The scarlett has a high quality DAC, so it will deliver a better sound to both your headphones, as the JBL's.
It also enables you to use balanced cables for your 305P's, which should eliminate electrical interference. Highly recommended but it can be expensive.

If this is too expensive right now, you could go with a simple inline control for the volume control of your monitors and any 3.5mm extension cable for your headphones, plugged into the audio output of the back of your computer and attached to your desk/whatever suits you. But you'll have to switch between manually between output on your computer. This is what I did to connect my headphones before I got my Focusrite.

EDIT: The Behringer U-Phoria UMC202HD Could also be a cheap alternative, although it will be of a noticeable worse quality compared to the Focus rite.

u/magnites · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You have several options:

  1. Easy, cheapest, move on with your life
    Buy the cable sociojeje linked (or whatever one you want as long as it goes from one 3.5mm to dual mono 1/4 inch). Plug 3.5mm into soundcard/onboard audio and 1/4 inch into the inputs on each speaker. Since you want to leave the volume control on the back of the monitors in one position and never touch it again, with this setup you will be using your PC for volume control, which usually sucks.

    2)I want to control volume outside of windows approach
    Get an inline volume control ( is the cheapest one I can find). You get a 3.5mm to dual rca cable from your pc to the input on the volume control, then two rca to 1/4" from the control to the monitors. Leave windows at like 75-100% volume (you are going to have to experiment) and use the volume knob on the inline to control volume. This is also the ideal solution if you have an external DAC or buy one at some point (which you should)

    3)I want all the things, but dont want to spend a lot of money
    Buy this:

    This an external DAC AND headphone amplifier in one. What makes this one special, is that you can switch between headphone out and line out (speaker) with the toggle switch at the front. This will replace your soundcard once its plugged in by USB and will also serve as your volume control. If you have headphones, it would be plugged into this as well. Cable wise, it would be USB from PC to the Dac (included with unit), then two RCA to 1/4" mono cables from the dac/headphone amp to the speakers
u/itcrackerjack · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

In my garage, I run a chromecast hooked up to this guy running a pair of 8" speakers from the 80s. : It's 20w and powers them just fine for the whole 2-car garage. I'm not recommending that for high volume, but it does the job. A used receiver would work really well too, they're just much larger.


You can get a pretty simple RCA pot volume control knob on amazon that you could use for the sub.

u/metafizikal · 2 pointsr/audiophile

You'll need a headphone amp with preouts, a more traditional preamp, or a level controller. Schiit Magni 2 Uber or Audioengine D1, for the former. Control Freak or something like this for the latter. Or the Schiit Sys.

u/I3igAl · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

If you are missing an optical optical cable those can be had for like 6$

RCA Volume control:
(made to be mounted under desk or car dash, lable upside down on top of desk)
If talking purely SPDIF/Optical vs USB, optical cannot have noise caused by electrical interference of other circuits. However the DAC chip used and the circuit design on the DAC plays a factor as well. If a device has poor circuit design the power delivery could be degrading, or interference between its own left and right channels could happen.

I have no experience or knowledge of the Fiio D3, it would work but I can't tell you how well, but I would say I personally would put more down on something that feeds into a pair of 305.
A Micca Origen+ would work but its just the same as a DAC X6 basically.

u/e60deluxe · 2 pointsr/hometheater

so between the denon and the emotiva

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The simplest way is to get a passive volume control, like this one, or a higher end one, like the mackie big knob passive. I have that one and like it a lot.

A better way is a dac/amp combo like the fiio k3, schiit fulla 2, etc.

You plug the speakers into the dac output using the correct cable, set the physical volume on your speakers (I usually go around 75%) and use the volume knob on the dac/amp to adjust while listening. And being that you're using the dac instead of onboard sound, you'll probably get less noise and interference.

u/Pandalizer · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Get an inline rca controller like this one : PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller

u/cthulhubert · 2 pointsr/funny

(Man, this turned out a long longer than I thought it would, for relatively little content. I guess I just have a lot of feelings about audio equipment.)

I'd really recommend reading a bunch of reviews and auditioning what you can (I know that's not always practical, I sure bought mine without listening to many alternatives).

I really like the guy's reviews, though I know there are people that disagree with some of his conclusions and methods.

/r/Zeos also has a shortlist and some mini-reviews of both powered monitors and bookshelf speakers + amps, and where our experience overlaps I agree with them, so I imagine my advice in that price range would match theirs. (Though after a quick look, it seems some of them are a little out of date, with links to discontinued equipment.)

If you're willing to spend that much, I can't recommend enough making sure your speakers are properly positioned with stands (you don't have to spend much though: the noaudiophile guy uses soup cans to prop up speakers he reviews at his computer!). You may also consider rubber isolation mats.

I personally use—and very much enjoy—the JBL LSR305s, which I got for 280$ a pair, but they're usually 300$ (typically sold by the each at 150$). When I searched for that price, I found out they've just been replaced with the "305p MkII", but changes are minor and all improvements.

Studio monitors are popular for audiophile grade computer speakers because they're designed for near-field, critical listening, unlike typical bookshelf speakers.

On the other hand, they're designed for a very linear, uncolored sound. Speakers can essentially be thought of as a musical instrument, and while there are plenty of wrong ways to make them, there's no one right way. Precision is just one basis for judgment (though the one I find most soothing to go by, since it's easiest to measure).

The LSR305s specifically have been very popular on /r/audiophile, but there's also a lot of praise for the ~400$/pair Yamaha HS5s and AudioEngine A5s. I personally wouldn't bet a lot of money that I'd be able to tell a big difference between my speakers and those higher priced ones.


The rest of this post is just advice for if you do get a Studio Monitor. Many (including the JBLs and the Yamahas I mentioned) aren't terribly user friendly. I ran into some stumbling blocks, so I'll mention them here. They're designed to be stand-alone, giving flexibility to your recording engineer, so to run them in stereo, you'll need a way to control the volume of them together (not to mention some unusual cables/adapters, and space to plug in two things on your power strip).

Zeos recommends this line level control, which is only 10$. There's also a "passive preamp" by Nobsound on Amazon for 40$. I don't think you can do too much to mess up a stereo potentiometer with modern manufacturing, so the extra money for the nobsound one is probably just for the nice box and connectors (admittedly, I built my own passive pre-amp and spent probably too much on a stepped attenuator for it).

Obviously, you could instead control volume directly from your computer's volume control, but there's a hidden hazard there, so this is secretly the more expensive option. On nearly every computer, the built in digital-to-analog-converter (DAC) is 16-bits; turning down the volume digitally fundamentally means cutting the audio resolution your computer outputs. The way around this is a 24-bit DAC: almost all audio is recorded/produced at 16-bit resolution (it's the CD standard; but also, about the limit of detail a human can hear), so you can go to .25% volume on the computer before you touch the real data. My recommendation is the Objective Labs DAC (99$).

Some people recommend a dedicated, high quality DAC anyways for a sound system around a price point like 500$. I do own the ODAC (predecessor to the OL DAC), but for me it's almost just for peace of mind.

As a cable example: if you get JBLs and a volume control, you'll need this for computer to volume control and a pair of these for control to speakers. (Not recommendations, just top results on amazon for those types.)

PS: One thing you
don't* have to worry about at all is "balanced". Most studio monitors can be run balanced, but they'll also run unbalanced just fine. You'd need a very expensive balanced DAC to make use of it, and assuming your home is not the maelstrom of EM interference a recording studio is, it just isn't necessary (it's not even "overkill", if you don't need it, balanced equipment just adds more components that could produce interference).

^(edited to correct first cable link)

u/tendinosis · 2 pointsr/WranglerYJ


Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] ( using these housings

the switches got to [relays] ( that are powered [by this fuse box] ( that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.

Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?

Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.

u/splxx · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Will adding this level adjuster after my phono preamp and in front of my powered speakers affect quality? I plan on adding it to my chain because each powered speaker (KRK Rokits) have their own volume control on the back of each unit which is a nuisance.


u/mawnck · 2 pointsr/vinyl

Something like this, link courtesy of another poster upthread a ways. Put it after the preamp.

A kludgey solution for a bad situation ... I suspect those speakers are only intended for use with that DVD player which did have a volume control (and Coby stuff, sorry to say, is all crap).

u/soggyburrito · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You could try something like this:


But, if that doesn't work, you're probably gonna need an electrician to install a grounded outlet.

u/dGlitch · 2 pointsr/audioengineering

Had the same issue. Bought a 10 bucks ground loop isolator and the humming was gone.

u/egamble · 2 pointsr/audiophile

There is no such device that takes an optical signal and turns it into USB to connect to your Schiit Fulla. When connecting over USB, it requires drivers and your operating system to interface with the DAC.

You could try something like this: to see if it will help for fairly cheap but unfortunately you may need to replace your dac with one that takes optical natively, or the scarlett 2i2 and try TRS to XLR cables.

u/Bobmaloogalooga · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

If you use Amazon Prime this is under $10 and works well:

u/bellsy · 2 pointsr/prius

Had this issue with our 09. Bought a ground loop filter off Amazon and that took care of it.

This is the one I bought (or so says my amazing order history):

I'm sure others like it would work.

u/SorryNotKarlMarx · 2 pointsr/thinkpad

This is the one I have. Supposedly they can reduce audio quality, some brands worse than others, but I haven't noticed any problems with that.

u/Claclink · 2 pointsr/Android

no, but i know how audio systems work. ive built tube amplifiers, installed multiple stereo systems in cars before, and i'm an engineer that deals with signal processing. for what you are saying to be true, it would imply your amp in your car has more distortion than the tiny inexpensive amp in your phone. which i guess is possible if you have the shittiest amp/deck ever made. read the first sentence of the link below.

the hissing noise is a separate problem. usually due to a grounding issue. this will probably fix it.

u/clupean · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Standard PC speakers often don't include white noise cancellation. A cheap way to kill the interference is to add a ground loop isolator.

u/siscorskiy · 2 pointsr/LGG3

get one of these

u/kindbutterfly · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

you guessed right, it is electrical interference. you probably already have it caused by your car's electronics and the usb cable is just a next source.

i have this one and it works great. i actually have it plugged into a bluetooth dealy since my car doesn't have bluetooth.

reviews exaggerate sound quality issues like quieter or low bass. i mean, turn it up or turn up your bass.

u/FrighteningEdge · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

The way I did my setup was to run a 3.5mm aux cable from my gaming pc’s green stereo drive port on the back of the motherboard into a grounded loop noise isolator like this one to help the popping and static when transitioning from digital to analog,

Then I ran the 3.5mm end of the ground loop into the red microphone port on the back of my streaming pc. That way I could go into my Sound Settings and look at my recording devices and there should be a new input there from your gaming computer. Go into the properties and there should be a tick box for your streaming pc to always listen to your gaming pc and output it through your streaming pc.

That way I only had one set of speakers listening to both PCs, and I could use the new recording device as a sound input in Elgato Sound Control in OBS to stream the sound from my gaming pc and listen to it at the same time.

It might sound confusing but the cables and everything are relatively cheap.

I’m at work but if you need more help I’ll draw a layout for you later if you want.

u/gahd95 · 2 pointsr/headphones

Like this?

Should i add it between the mic and the PC or the audio jack and the PC?

u/DJPhil · 2 pointsr/audiorepair

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

u/ixShadow · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS7

Also here to say I'm having the same issue when using the aux cable in my car and Galaxy S7. (Just purchased 3/20)

I get static when using Maps, Google Music, and making calls (barely audible with all the static).

I have searched and come across some users recommending to go to Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects > [With an auxillary cable/headphone plugged in], switch UHQ upscaler from off > on. This surprisingly did the trick after I restarted I think. But now it is back to static and it's beginning to get annoying.

If you find a fix please update!

Update: Just wanted to drop by and say that I was able to fix the issue (as it stands anyhow). Taking the advice of a fellow redditor in this thread, I purchased this device and the static has ceased. Should I/you have to purchase something like this to make our brand new $600+ phone function normally? Probably not, but so far this has fixed my issue and I hope it can help someone else out there experiencing similar issues.

u/KD7DMP · 2 pointsr/podcasting

I helped set up a studio about 5 years back for a local community radio station and interfacing the phone line to their system was a pain.
They had a unit called a Phone hybrid, which is a unit that has an audio in(so the caller can hear you) and an Audio out(so you can hear the caller) and a connection for a landline phone. So you hook that up to your board and away you go, at least that is how it's done in radio. Here is a link to hybrids:

For your cell phone you could get a mic/headphone splitter to do the same job as the Hybrid.
(Like this one:

The only issue is there is voltage on the mic side(to power the mic in a headset) that you need to isolate or it will damage your board.(You can use something like this to do that job.

So you would need to hook the Mic side, via your isolator, To your aux output on your board so the caller can hear the final mix audio. Then hook the headphone port to an aux/line input(the One that uses RCA or 1/4" jacks,) so that the caller can be recorded.
One other bit that I learned while setting up the radio station is you need a way to mute the caller's audio on the aux output so the caller doesn't hear them self.(It comes out as a very trippy delayed audio to the caller) Many boards have way to select what line go to your aux output, so you will just need to RTFM on that.

Anyway, I hope that input was helpful and gets you a better setup for callers.

u/jamminwithtrees · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yup sounds like the other headset prob didn't use a common ground for the mic and headphones. It's def a ground loop though, I knew as soon as you described the noise :) Ground loop isolaters sometimes work, but it depends on the difference in potential - you can end up with some other issues if it's bad enough. You can def give one of these a try though - put it inline on your headphone connection to the dac/amp -

Otherwise not much you can do short of rewiring the headset.

u/cyclonesworld · 2 pointsr/electrical

For sure sounds like a ground loop issue then if it's happening when they're running tools. I'm not sure how to handle this for residential, I've only dealt with it in car audio.

I did have a similar issue when I used to DJ. I had a USB controller, and when I had it hooked up to my PC via USB, then connected through RCA to my receiver, I'd get a high pitched whine from it. It's because it was grounding through my PC, and my AMP, which were both grounded to each other. Some kind of weird deal, I never did figure out a good solution.

For car audio though, they make a ground loop isolator that filters out the high pitched whines. I don't see why it wouldn't work on the PC though, since it's a passive device that doesn't require external power. This is the one I have. Might be worth a shot.

u/gargolito · 2 pointsr/prius

This works great on my 2007 and meets my requirements: are it and forget it, fast connectivity, no batteries. It's been solid for me:

HomeSpot NFC-enabled Bluetooth Audio Receiver for Car Audio

And to avoid ground noise:

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others

Tips: don't max out your phone's volume or will cause distortion. I keep mine at 80-90% of volume. I can still use the phone with the car. I have an android phone. I connect Bluetooth phone top cast and media streaming to the adapter.

u/camcabbit · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like (no pun intended) a ground loop issue. You'll need something called a "Ground Loop Isolator".

Also, check that all the devices connected to your computer that are powered from the wall are grounded. It's possible that the monitor might have a bad (or no!) grounding pin.

In order to possibly solve this, I would recommend using something like this between your monitor's audio out and your computer's line in jack.

I know this because my sister's computer had the exact same problem.

u/purebishop · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like a ground loop problem to me. Depending on how recently you've purchased the laptop, get it replaced/repaired under warranty. Otherwise, you could use a ground loop isolator to fix this.

u/gunder_bc · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

At work I have a headset mic plugged in to both my phone and PC, and plug the phone into the PC to charge. That created a ground loop and I had to buy a group-loop isolator to remove the hiss that caused.

u/mage2k · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

One of these takes care of that problem nicely.

u/wickedzeus · 2 pointsr/mazda3

if you're going to do this, don't forget to pick up a ground loop noise isolator it will get rid of the whirring/static noise you'll inevitably get as you drive. That's the one I used, so I can vouch for it, but there are many other ones out there. I had it paired with this on my 07 (placed it on the front of the center console a few inches under the lip) and it worked well until I switched cars

u/mrandish · 2 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

It was probably a ground loop being introduced from that power brick.

This can usually be resolved by changing the grounding of your power configuration. Sometimes swapping power strips, using two different wall outlets which are on different circuits or changing out audio cables (you may have a cable with a disconnected ground shield). To be clear, your problem is not "from" the power cable. The problem is a ground connection that is traveling through power lines and audio lines.

One time I had a problem with hooking up two different computers to the same amplified monitor speakers in a complex system, couldn't solve it and had to resort to getting this $10 ground loop isolator which fixed the problem completely.

u/mouf32 · 2 pointsr/lgg6

I picked up the ground loop isolator mentioned on the G5 post and it fixed all of my issues. Supposedly it's a software issue that can be fixed.

u/Chaosphere_ · 2 pointsr/windowsphone

I don't know about any car stereos as I just use my stock unit but I do use this car kit from Belkin and it works great.

u/quietcore · 2 pointsr/Android

Belkin Bluetooth Car Adapter works great.

When i'm not in my car i use a rocketfish bluetooth headset

u/lumberjack_dan · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

$120 Pionner shallow sub This is a highly sensitive sub so its should sound great for your truck.
$100 Pioneer amp This is a 2 channel amp, Use this amp in bridged mode to get the full 450 watts for your sub.
$27 4 gauge amp kit

If you have aftermarket head unit with amp pre out the installation will be easier. Hope this helps

u/BKlaczak · 2 pointsr/Wake

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

u/marsrover001 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

According to this subreddit, you don't want the link posted above/below this. Oxygen free copper is the only wire to ever think of using. CarAV approved wiring harness

Also, never buy from wallmart.

u/Cheedweed · 2 pointsr/CarAV

No, BOSS is not a brand you want to spend money on. They tend to make low quality products.

This kit is a little more, but it is worlds better than the Boss one:

Also, this kit comes with an 80A fuse. You will want to buy one that is around 40A. You can get one at a local auto parts store, or wherever really. They are abundant.

u/Troniar24 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Here buy this:

Make sure the power wire from the positive battery is fused within a foot or two of the battery. Secondly, make sure the ground or negative is to a bolt that has the paint sanded off. With the car running, check the voltage between the two points and make sure it reads around 14.3 volts to be sure you have a decent connection. Finally the thing that stores power is called a capacitor. It has it's place in certain areas of car audio, but you don't have to worry about it at this point and would advise against spending the money on one. Youtube has plenty of videos on how to properly crimp/solder your wire, as well as hook up amps, subs, etc.

u/derpotologist · 2 pointsr/CarAV

That alternator is almost certainly an 80amp, which is good for something like 800 watts RMS (1100watts minus whatever your car uses). I have a car, same make, similar year.. I've got 2 12s and the front components are amped, something like 1000 watts RMS, the lights dim when I bump it hard but it's enough to rattle the trunk, vibrate the rear-view mirror and host a smallish beach party (50 people maybe?)

If you want to go full on SPL you'll need at least $500 for a new alternator... but with what you have, you could focus on sound quality, have something that sounds great and still gets loud enough to blow your eardrums out without breaking the bank

What I did:

Hand-me-down amps and subs. I'm running probably 400 watts RMS or so on the 2 subs.. yeah, really low, but you can really feel it and it shakes the hell out of the trunk. I have hearing damage from a previous system so not-insanely-loud works well for me

Per the recommendation of this sub, I skipped out on rear speakers and spent the budget on the fronts and sound deadening. This is the way to go. I bought the Morel Maximos... after reading a ton they seem like the best sounding speaker you can get under $300... and they only cost $150 for the pair. Look at the recommendations on the wiki for a good budget amp to power them. I've got ~100watts RMS to them, and they get fucking loud (and clear!)

Spend some money on sound deadening.. you'll need it. Road noise brings the signal-to-noise ratio way down, making it harder to hear your music, harder to hear details, and harder on your ears. I bought the Noico 80 mil on Amazon, $60 was enough to do both front door panels and probably will be enough for the rear too. This video gets posted a lot and will give you an idea of what you need to do. I didn't go as far as he did, but followed the concepts and it made a massive difference. Eventually I'd like to add some MLV for more sound-proofing

I come from a pro audio / studio engineering background as well.. you know the saying, spend 1/2 the budget on room treatment, that's probably about right in the car world too.

So for final budget:

$150 for Morel Maximo you'll appreciate this thread, it's an audio engineer's review of the Maximo vs several other components, this is what sold me and I love mine

$60 for Noico 80 mil sound deadener

$?? for MLV.. maybe $100?

$?? - Look on the wiki for a budget 5 channel amp... I'm running 2 amps, takes more connectors, more wire, more cost, but I already had the 2 amps. There seems to be some great amps out there now that are budget friendly, but I'm not familiar with them. Consult the wiki. You could run the components off the head unit but it wouldn't be much more to amplify them properly and it'll make a massive difference in output quality

$30 - Depending on the length of your cable run and your power requirements, you'll probably need a 4 gauge wire kit (do calculate this before buying), get the one from KnuKonceptz they're a great bang-for-buck and the cheapest wire that's actually rated for what it is. (for instance, Boss wire is thick but it's all insulation and not copper)

And for bonus, get a DSP so you can flatten out the EQ in your car.. cars are a lot harder to EQ than rooms because they have so many different nodes. Dayton is about to release theirs for $150, and if you have a calibration mic you're set, if not NADY's CM-100 is a $60 calibration mic and you'll take the car to the next level. You could keep it and re-tune on your next car. My car sounds lovely without DSP but I plan on adding it when I get some more funds... this is easy to upgrade and add later on, just pop it in the signal chain

And one last pro tip: Run your RCAs away from all power sources so you don't pick up that annoying alternator whine. I ran mine through the center of the car, but you should be able to run it on one side of the car and the amp wires on the other

Hope this helps. I'm just a musician/engineer who knows a little bit about car audio, been dipping my feet in a bit more lately, but by far an expert. There's a lot of professional car audio guys around here that can help out more if you have any more questions


u/Myrtal · 2 pointsr/CarAV

You want an amp that can deliver 500W RMS of power at 2 ohms. Like this Rockford Fosgate R500X1D.

And here's a good 4 gauge wiring kit.

u/dooshbox · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Knuconceptz Wiring Better than stinger and costs less.
AudioTechnix Sound Deadener

u/Kadori · 2 pointsr/CarAV

allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit

u/ballinoutdagym · 2 pointsr/CarAV
u/illuxion · 2 pointsr/CarAV

KCA is Knu's code for copper clad aluminum which is aluminum wire with a thin copper coating. Kolossus Flex is OFC, oxygen free copper, and is good for 150A at 4ga. Pure copper is a MUCH better conductor than aluminum.

u/DrGabooboo · 2 pointsr/BuildaCarAVForMe

I have a 2012 accord, and the 08-12 have the same body style, so I know what you need and some potential problems you might run into.

You should replace the radio because it'll make a dramatic difference in the sound quality, same with adding an amp. Also, if you want to put quality speakers in, you'll need an amp or you'll risk blowing your speakers.

Problems you'll run into:

  • With a new head unit, you'll lose the function of the screen on top, but I think it's a good trade off for the sound quality

  • You can't have speakers in the front doors that are too deep because it'll hit the window, but there are good shallow mount speakers to put there.

  • The back deck WILL rattle, even you you put a good amount of deadener on it, deadener will still help a good amount though. To solve this problem, deaden it, put weather stripping along the back of the deck where it meets the window (I doubled it up where the brake light is back there), and I drilled two small holes from inside the trunk and zip-tied it down around the metal frame under the deck. This worked great for me and I have two 13" subs in a ported box. If you're looking for one 10", it'll definitely work. It might look a little janky, but that's the only way for it to not rattle.

  • To have someone install everything, run the wires, and deaden what you need deadened (which is, at minimum, the front doors and front door panels, rear deck, trunk, trunk lid, and probably the the pillars in the back), you're probably looking at around $300-$600 for about 4-6 hours of work, depending on where you take it to. And some charge more for installing if you didn't buy the parts from them.

    In your other post on /r/CarAV, you said you have a couple grand to spend, so I'm going to put a complete SQ system together that you'll be able to keep for a long time and move from car to car.

  • KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit - $50 (they have a cheaper 4 gauge amp kit, but it doesn't have a big enough fuse on it)

  • 100' KnuKonceptz speaker wire - $20

  • RCA cables (need 2 more pairs) - $10 x 2

  • Dash kit - $50

  • Wiring harness - $12
  • Antenna adapter - $10

  • Steering wheel control interface - $80

  • Kenwood excelon headunit - $260

  • 6.5" Focal component speakers for the front - $250

  • 6.5" JL coax speakers for the back deck - $140

  • Baffles for the speakers on back deck - $8 (you need these if you want to hear these speakers because of noise cancelation from the sub)

  • 10" pioneer sub - $300

  • Crappy pre-fab sub box - $60

  • Custom box for your car - $120 + $15 if you want a grill (They will build it to the specs of the sub, which is 1 cu.ft. sealed if you go with the pioneer)

  • Kenwood excelon 5 channel amp - $500

  • 25ft^2 of sound deadener - $55

  • $1815-1890 + $300-$600 installation + your tax rate

    You probably can find some of this stuff cheaper on amazon, but they're not a registered dealer so you're SOL if something goes bad.

    I'd go in to the store, get two quotes, 1) just to install all of this stuff you bought online and 2) what it would cost to buy everything from them with installation and see which is cheaper. The cost for dealers on door speakers and subwoofers is literally half of what they sell for, not head units though, they have very little mark up. Chances are the store might end up being cheaper if you tell them exactly what you're looking at online and how much you're planning to spend on it. Win-Win for you and the dealer, he get's business and you get a better price and similar quality products if they can compete with the online prices. Plus you'd be supporting a local business, unless you were planning on going to best buy, car toys, or something like that (don't do that, go to a local place). And if you buy all this stuff from a dealer and have it installed there, if anything goes wrong you can take it back and have them deal with it.

u/infinity526 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

You can do a (not perfect, but good enough) circle cut with a pencil, string, and jigsaw

Yes, it'd be fine on your stock electrical. I forgot to mention to get some good OFC power wire

u/TheDullard · 2 pointsr/CarAV

You want to get a d2 sub. That means it's dual voicecoil, 2ohms per coil. coils would be wired parallel for a 1 ohm final load. A 4 gauge amp wiring kit will be fine. I would spend the few extra dollars for a nice OFC (oxygen free copper) kit over a kit that uses CCA(copper clad aluminum) Here is a really good choice, has all you need

u/mestapho · 2 pointsr/CarAV

The amp and subs I’m on board with for this budget but I wouldn’t get that wiring kit. It’s CCA power/ground

Spend a little more and get this

Build your own box but use proper glue not silicon. Titebond 2 is pretty much universally used by enclosure makers. Glued correctly you don’t even need screws - the glue is stronger than the screws, esp in MDF.

u/theworstghost · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Here's another 4ga option that has speaker wire.

u/whoocares · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I use this one with the pixel, zero issues.

u/Mersues · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8
u/Jesse_berger · 2 pointsr/uberdrivers

A nice feature to have is bluetooth, for me it makes driving way easier and the few times it have crapped out on me or I accidentally send the call to my phone has been crappy. Though you can get this.

I have a Hyundai Elantra Limited. A little smaller than the Sonata that was suggested but is overall a good car with decent gas mileage. A lot of people here will suggest non cloth seats but be careful for the seats with the holes in it like this pain in the ass to clean, and when someone throws up in your car it's sucks when it gets in those holes.

Leather seats, spacious, and good MPG is all you really need in a car. Anything else like bluetooth you can buy separate.

u/MK12Mod0SuperSoaker · 2 pointsr/funny

I can't fix the other stuff, but this might be helpful for your car.

Also ouch, dem dowvotes doe.

u/clawesome · 2 pointsr/MINI

You could do aux in, and then use a bluetooth kit like this one. I used this same one in my R56 and had stuck it just behind the steering wheel so it was in a short reach.

u/WuddaWaste · 2 pointsr/Android

I had an external Bluetooth adapter that I REALLY liked. It worked better than either of the BT car stereos I have (Pioneer and Clarion) and cost a fraction of what they did. It plugs into the aux port and to USB for power. I had it two years ago and really loved it. It has buttons just like the cord you showed. There might be something better on the market these days, but I can certainly vouch for the clarity and ease of use of this little bugger. In fact, writing this makes me miss it right now.

u/calipilot227 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I've got one of these (similar situation, jumped ship to Android about 4 months ago), and it's quite good.

Plugs right into the Aux jack, and draws power from the cigarette lighter.

u/D_Bat · 2 pointsr/Audi

You can do what I'm doing. I bought a cheap bluetooth adapter linked below. It plugs into an AUX port and is powered be 12v/cigarette lighter. What I'll be doing is cutting off those plugs and wiring it behind the dash directly into the AUX input wires behind the plug. This way I can still plug things into the AUX for anything but still do the bluetooth device into it. This device auto connects and is for both iPhones and Androids. Music quality is great. I'm no audiophile though and my 2008 Tundra speakers aren't super duper or anything.

If you want to go 100% wireless which is great then get the link below too if your phone supports wireless charging. I love car docks because they are a million times safer than putting your phone down in your center console. They keep your eyes on the road while still being able to see the phone. Also it's super useful with the WAZE app and GPS.

To power that device I bought the product below. It's a 12v to 5v convertor to power a USB port with 3amps of power. This will be behind the dash and I'll be wiring it to the other product below to add a USB port to my A-pillar. This way I'll have a very short wire going from my A-Pillar to my car-dock so that there are no wires really visible in the vehicle interior. :)

u/Citizen_of_Atlantis · 2 pointsr/LGG3

I have an hour commute so I've relied on the AUX in my car for years. G3 is the first phone that I've had significant issues with when it comes to the AUX connection. When I first experienced it it was almost a dealbreaker and I thought about returning the phone for a second. I have no solution for the AUX issue so I'm just going to pick up a bluetooth-to-AUX device like this Kinivo to play my music and TuneIn stations. Just waiting on my next paycheck.

u/themaincop · 2 pointsr/apple

I'm not the same guy but I have this one and have been happy with it for a couple years:

u/caelroth · 2 pointsr/spotify

I bought this one, it turns off an on with my car and have voice commands. Plugs into your cigarette lighter slot and has single usb slot for charging.

u/untitled-1 · 2 pointsr/Audi

If your car has aux in you can use something like this. It has a mic built in and can play music and call through your speakers. I have an older junker version of this from Belkin, it's great nonetheless. Surprisingly great sound quality.

Edit: it needs a cigarette lighter jack so be ready for that. My A4 has the aux in and power port in the arm rest compartment so it was perfect.

u/Brodzki · 2 pointsr/saab

I use this for bluetooth and this to hold my phone. Obviously this doesn't have apply car play but it mirrors navi, handles calls and plays my music. I also have my phone setup to read out my texts and ask if I would like to reply.

u/mapin · 2 pointsr/androidaudio

I got this for my car, supports Apt-X if your phone supports it, works great.

u/CatFlier · 2 pointsr/iphone

I've used this Kinivo since my 6S Plus days and it's worked really well. It also has close to 6,000 reviews and 4 1/4 stars.

u/chrisms150 · 2 pointsr/Android

Ah, no, I wasn't going for an FM transmitter (I had one of those years ago - they suck terribly in my car, too much interference) - but a bluetooth dongle that plugs into the aux cord like this one:

But yes, if one of those had a USB port for charging the phone it would work - however, again, it's stupid that phones lose functionality.

u/eastmandoc · 2 pointsr/prius

Get this one if you go that route.

It's the one I have, and the sound quality, and sync speed when you get in the car is super fast.

u/fliptrik · 2 pointsr/AndroidQuestions

Check this puppy out. I use it every day and it's amazing. You can get any radio you want. Just needs a front facing aux port, but a back would would work if you wire it in ahead of time. The power for it comes from the car port and still has a USB port for your phone.

It plays music just fine and has controls on the little puck to control the music. It also has a speaker so you can use speaker phone through your car speakers. It's really handy for it's price.

u/pdxiowa · 2 pointsr/MINI

You can get a bluetooth receiver with an aux cord - I'd recommend just getting one that will plug into an available USB so that you don't need to repeatedly charge it. Once your phone is paired, it will automatically pair with your phone every time you turn the car on.

Something like this Kinivo ($35) or this MPOW ($24) would fulfill that purpose.

u/PrinceXizor · 2 pointsr/Volvo

That's awesome. The guy I'm buying it from said many of the same things. I also didn't realize until your comment that the bluetooth didn't work with music. I bought this for my current car and it's been great, especially since it has an aux input and cigarette lighter hidden in the console. Hopefully it will continue to work.

I'm coming from an impreza so it'll be some nice power and torque. Also lucked out and this one that came up is the 6 speed. Could you tell when the AWD kicks in in the snow? I'm pretty sure it's FWD until it detects traction loss and it'll send power to the rear. The impreza has always been great in the snow so I hope I don't lose much there.

Does yours have the black and white leather interior?

[Swedespeed has some good guides to exhaust systems if you haven't seen them.] ( Long term I'd love to do full exhaust, lowering springs, maybe FMIC and a bigger turbo, and a tune. Make a really great sleeper wagon.

u/SteepNDeep · 2 pointsr/CarAV

[I have two of these, and they both work flawlessly. They even have a pass-thru USB charger so they don't steal your 12V outlet. For $35 you can't go wrong.](

u/aliparoya · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I used this Kinivo Bluetooth Car Kit for the last year and it definitely served my purpose. You can route and hide wires to get a very clean look without spending too much money.

u/jimbolla · 2 pointsr/tech

I've had the Kinivo BTC450 for over 2 years and am pretty happy with it.

u/webheaded · 2 pointsr/Android

You can get a bluetooth adapter for your car that uses the lighter plugin and the 3.5mm input from your car to accept bluetooth from your phone. The one I got even does AptX. It's good enough that I don't feel like I HAVE to plug in when I'm in the car (though I could since I have a Pixel 1 and don't have to put up with that bullshit).

u/jtking51 · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

You want the USB and optical cable from the mixamp to go to your Xbox. Configure the mixamp first with the mixamp plugged in via USB to the PC and make it so the stream port only outputs the party chat.

Once configure plug the USB back into the Xbox. Then you want a cable going from the headphone or out audio port on your PC into the aux port on the mixamp.

This will give you Xbox audio and party chat output to your capture card while also allowing you to hear PC audio.

You may have to get a ground loop isolator for the aux cable though as you may get a humming noise Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator...

u/carlmmii · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You either need a ground loop isolator, or a way to capture the audio from the HDMI feed.

u/neverwhere616 · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I have 3 boutiques on a hub, I use these to eliminate noise. They work perfectly.

u/crispy91 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I used this one so it'll all fit in the center consol.

u/Lumbergo · 2 pointsr/orlando

Car Charger, Maxboost 4.8A/24W 2 USB Smart Port Charger [Black] $7.99

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) $9.69

Bluetooth Adapter Receiver,URANT Car Kit Mini USB Wireless Audio Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver & Adapter Home/Car Phone iPhone Stereo Speakers Headphones Car (AUX in) Music Sound System $10.97


had this set up for years until I got a car that had a bluetooth stereo. quality was pretty good all things considered - the ground loop Isolator helped tremendously.

u/Roppmaster · 2 pointsr/headphones

>So, it should look like this?


>My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

The speakers should mute when the line out is used.

>Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

You shouldn't need that.

u/thewatermellon · 2 pointsr/headphones

You might be able to get a cheap ground loop isolator on Amazon that would fix the issue, like this

u/ThePandaGalaxy · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

If there is an amount of static being picked up, I would recommend buying a ground loop isolator. This is what I have for my setup:

u/KnightMichael · 2 pointsr/audio

>Shouldn't wireless audio be noise free? I figure that it should be immune to noise since the audio is digital.

No! You might wanna google that... TL;DR: Wireless=Interference=Noise

And no, you don't need a mixer board. Since i'm assuming you're using a pc/mac, an external sound card will do.
You might wanna troubleshoot first before making any kind of purchase. You can start by plugin the monitors in different sockets around the house, or taking the monitors to a friends house and see if the noise persists. If it does, this might help:

My recommendation would be an external soundcard with balanced outputs (~$150-$200)

u/Nixflyn · 2 pointsr/Android

We're pretty close to AptX HD car adapters being a reality, so I'd say wait a bit. If you must have one now, there are quite a few regular AptX ones on the market. Just look for one that has a USB type A plug rather than a built in car charger plug. Much better to use your own charger in the car to get fast charge, more than 1 slot, etc.

Something like this. This specific ones comes with a 3 slot charger, which I guess is cool if you don't care about fast charging. My car has 2 power plugs so it'd be great for me and leave room to hook up a dashcam using one of the other slots on the charger, and use my other plug for my phone fast charger.

But still, always get a ground loop isolator. They're usually under $10 and completely eliminate electronic whine. Like this.

u/Gawlf85 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Sounds like bad ground isolation. You either need a better 3.5 cable, or an isolator like this one:

u/Russ916 · 2 pointsr/Lyft

If your playing music through an aux cord while having the AMP charging it will make a hissing static noise. I've had that whenever I charged my phone and had my aux cord in at the same time I solved that issue a while back by buying a ground loop noise isolator off Amazon. Here's a link to the one I bought Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable.

u/mrkhiggz · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I had a similar issue when connecting my Nintendo Switch to my PC monitor where there was an odd static/buzzing noise. I used a ground loop isolator which fixed it. You may also try using the Line-In audio port of your PC if it has one as well and see if that fixes anything.

u/Peejaye · 2 pointsr/headphones

Did you try getting a ground loop isolator?

I use one of these and I've never had any issues with noise. it will lower the volume a bit though.

u/Descartesboard · 2 pointsr/OP1users
u/wantonexplosion · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/Plasmacubed · 2 pointsr/OP1users
u/Copernican · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

I run the exact same setup. For some reason an amp causes a lot of static on the mic.

Something like this can help. Have it connected between your cans and your amp. It will reduce the volume output, but helps solve the static issue.

u/Dingusbartlenut · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch Others have suggested this one in another thread. I also get that darn humming as well, but it's only when my switch is charging.

u/yaboiauggieg · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/stacker55 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

ground loop buzz. usually this will solve it

u/OverlookeDEnT · 2 pointsr/AverMedia

no worries. I will say that this "issue" made me rethink my approach and I ended up routing all my outputs (via 3.5mm outs and 1 optical audio out) with voicemeeter and hooked them up to the streaming PC individually and was able to assign all audio as separate sources (discord, game & my mic) and it made for easier on the fly adjustments on streamlabs.

Good luck! if you do need the noise loop isolator, I bought 2 of these and they worked flawlessly. I'd try without it first as maybe you'll get lucky and your line-in to line-out (pc to pc) might not have any noise issues.

u/evilgeniustodd · 2 pointsr/audiophile

I look forward to your update :D Skookum as frig mate!

u/UCrazyKid · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Get some ferrite cores for the cable ends.
eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black

u/Tychosis · 2 pointsr/Whatisthis

/u/wackyvorlon mentioned to the OP that ferrite beads on the power and signal inputs to the monitor might help, something like these:

They're made to prevent high frequency noise from coupling into the power or signal cables coming into your monitor/TV. You might want to see if you have any on the cables coming into your TV, and if you don't, snap some on there. It might help alleviate the problem, but with EMI nothing is really guaranteed.

u/jamvanderloeff · 2 pointsr/crtgaming

Cool beans :)

Might be able to improve results with the third party supply by wrapping the cable a few times through a big clip on ferrite like this

u/albatroopa · 2 pointsr/civic

You can get bulbs that fit. They have an LED driver that the wiring harness plugs into. As far as brands, I've got no advice. I bought mine for cheap from some local guy that runs his business out of his house and I can't remember the brand.

Once your install is finished, you're going to want to check the beam alignment and height. You're also probably going to want to put ferrite cores around the wires as close to the LED drivers as feasible, or you'll get electromagnetic interference and your radio will play mostly static.

If you do your turn signals, you're going to need a load resistor (8 ohm, I think) in parallel with your lights so that you don't get a rapid blink.

Example of ferrite cores:

u/TheThirdStrike · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

You could try clipping a ferrite core to the ends of the cable, it should help remove excess RF interference.

Although, you'd probably have better luck switching to Composite A/V cables (if possible).

u/dwarmstr · 2 pointsr/RTLSDR

This looks like very strong switching power supply noise. It could be coupled into the SDR via the USB cable or received directly via the antenna. Where and what is the antenna in your scenario? Try turning off any number of electronics in the vicinity to see if it is a particular power supply. I use a USB cable with a built-in ferrite choke on it, and use extensions to get the SDR away from the PC. Getting the antenna away from the SDR will also help if the problem is coming via the USB cable. For lots of other wires like keyboard, mice, monitors, etc. I bought

u/HowSR · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Finally on PC...

So here is what i Use:
Ground Loop Isolator

u/kodack10 · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Welcome to noisy grounds, hissing and spitting since 1969.

Buy an RCA or 1/4" TRS ground loop isolator, run it between your sound device and the input of the monitors. Problem solved.


They are about $15. It breaks the ground over the RCA connection which will instantly stop the noise from your computer and DAC. Switching USB ports, and using USB filters are not the best solution and might not even resolve it. Isolation is a common thing to do when running 2vRCA between any 2 pieces of equipment (or using xlr)

The ground the speakers amplifiers have, the ground on the audio cable connected to that amp, the ground of your audio device whether USB DAC or pc, all of these grounds are different, they carry different stray currents and noise, and since they are not a common ground, they act like an antenna rather than a noise blocker.

By isolating the ground over the speaker cables you break the antenna in half and remove the noise.

You've actually just ran into the real reason why XLR connections are preferred in pro-audio. Because the out of phase wiring, allows a signal wire summation that cancels out the noise. RCA and TR don't do that though. TRS (can) do that as it's 3 conductor just like XLR, but it would need to be 3 conductor TRS on both sides of the cable. I know the 305's are TRS, but what you're plugging into probably isn't unless it's a mixing deck.

u/chickenmaster04 · 2 pointsr/MINI

You can buy it here it’s like $40. You can get dual lightning or a lightning and aux like mine. Also if you charge from the car you may need one of these to keep the signal noise from the charger from going to the head unit. All in all it cost me like $150 with the mount and cables and in my opinion it’s worth it.

u/Thepopshop · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I went and bought a ground loop isolator for 15 on Amazon and it works perfectly fine. Here is what I bought

Edit: It gets a lot worse if you are using the 3.5mm as an input into a pc through line it. That's why I needed the ground loop isolator.

u/Link1092 · 2 pointsr/Switch

You can also do it through your PC. That way you don't have to use the xbox controller. I have it set up so the HDMI is connected from my switch to the display, then I use this ground loop noise isolator and an aux cord to run the sound through my PC into my wireless headphones.

u/PotatoDynamics · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Pick you up some ground loop noise isolators for your 3.5mm connections. I had the same issue and these completely solved my issue.

u/mrbill · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Keep in mind that you might have electrical/ignition-noise related whine. If so, this will take care of it, putting it inline with the aux jack:

I use the Anker bluetooth-to-aux adapter and had to get one of these to get rid of the whine in the background when I hit the gas, etc.

u/danbo1221 · 2 pointsr/mazda3

I purchased a similar cable harness online for my 2006 3 hatchback, and it works really well. However, old 3's and 6's produce a lot of EM feedback, so you're going to need a ground loop isolator with 3.5mm jacks like this on Amazon. . Otherwise, if you're charging a phone or accelerating hard, the noise will be beyond irritating! I got one with a long cable so the people in the back seat can connect their devices.

u/dragonx254 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You need a ground loop isolator, like this one

u/PowerSamurai · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

The lack of proper social features and the fact that the switch is so liable to electrical noise when docked and using headphones.

To elaborate on the last point. When docked (this is an issue for ME, I don't know whether is a general issue or not) and with the charger plugged into a noisy socket (could potentially be grounding issues for example), and then using headpones through the switch's jackport, i will hear a lot of noise. If I change the socket I use to one that is not a part of my extension cord, I will have a much more quiet experience (the sound will not be entirely gone though, but can be depending on the socket). The problem for me is that I cannot use any other socket with my current setup so I will have to opt in to buy one of these:
They are said to remove all this noise by some other switch users that suffers from this issue too.

u/iTzinmyblood · 2 pointsr/computer_help

Maybe a grounding issue? Every time I've had buzzing issues it was fixed by a Ground Loop Noise Isolator. They sell them on amazon for like 10$


EDIT: I have this one Ground Loop Noise Isolator

u/a1brit · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

yeah, I use this one: works great. I haven't had the need for the grounding block but worth having jic.

u/reechasan · 2 pointsr/BmwTech

I got this cheap option, works well. Will auto connect to phone on car startup, press play on it and will start playing audio. Has controls for next and prev. Also has a mic, but I don’t use that so can’t comment.

Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP)

u/andreah_r · 2 pointsr/iphone

Yeah you can charge and listen because it’s Bluetooth so it’s wireless! This is the one I got:

u/live_life_love · 2 pointsr/iphone

I have not used the mophie wireless charging car vent mount, so I cannot comment on that product, though it does look pretty neat if it works well. In case others comment and share a negative experience about that product, I wanted to share my setup for a few ideas.

I have an iPhone XS Max, so no headphone jack, and an older car, so no built-in bluetooth.

I use the iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder to mount my phone to the windshield.

(I noticed you mentioned a vent mount, there are plenty of options available for that type of mount as well.)

Then, I use the Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kit - this allows me to play my music on my phone via bluetooth by connecting an audio cable into the Aux jack in my car and I can charge my phone using a lightning cable. I chose this model since it is powered via the car charger instead having to deal with rechargeable bluetooth adapters.

It may seem a little clunky, but it works well until I purchase a new car (I'm currently at 185,000 miles).

Products Mentioned:

iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder for iPhone X 8/8 Plus 7 7 Plus 6s Plus 6s 6 SE Samsung Galaxy S9 S9 Plus S8 Plus S8 Edge S7 S6 Note 8 5 -

Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) -


u/safetyguaranteed · 2 pointsr/NewedgeMustang

Here's what I installed on my factory unit on my Mach to play tunes via my iPhone X + Spotify:

iSimple PXDX universal aux input + iSimple PXHFD3 harness for Ford + Mpow Bluetooth receiver/adapter + CD Player Phone Mount

I did upgrade the cig adapter from the Mpow unit to a double Anker unit so I can charge my phone at the same time.

All of this was super simple to install.

For some reason peripherals plugged into my cig adapter will stay powered on even if the ignition is off, so I have to plug/unplug the socket. I have to plug the lightning cable to keep my phone charged anyways, so this works seamlessly for me. Just hop in, plug in and my phone automatically connects to Bluetooth + my phone is right above my shifter for easy access/swiping.

u/RJB919 · 2 pointsr/mazda3

For my 2008 Mazda 3 HB, I bought this Bluetooth receiver from Taotronics (Link ). So far it has worked out well and been more than usable. I would recommend it as it’s easy to install and use, and the sound quality is more than acceptable.

u/localhostrulez · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Get one of these:

I have an Anker Soundsync (similar but discontinued) and it's great, I can toggle songs without looking at anything. Only downside is it's a pain in the ass if your friends want to connect.

u/ra3ndy · 2 pointsr/Subaru_Outback

I had the same problem in my 2010. I found it to be bad even when it WAS working. I don’t have a fix, because I don’t believe one exists, but I can share my workaround.

I bought something similar to this this, and mounted the controls on the dash beside the stereo, and ran the cords along the trim and into the center console where it gets power and connects to aux.

It’s mostly unobtrusive, and far more advanced Bluetooth tech than was available 10 years ago. Biggest downside is you can’t make or receive calls unless the stereo is set to AUX (fine for me as I never really listen to radio or CDs when I can stream from my phone.)

The buttons on the puck replace the steering wheel buttons and can summon Siri to replace the clunky Subaru voice command interface.

Not perfect, but a far more useful form of imperfect than before, in my opinion.

u/DirteeCanuck · 2 pointsr/G35

I used the aux kit and added a bluetooth amp for 50 bucks.

Car connects when it turns on and can play music just fine without some bullshit FM transmitter. Cost $100.

All wireless and the voice works as well.

You wire everything into the armrest and I drilled holes for the transmitter placed just below the stick shift. Barely noticeable and I can switch songs very quickly;.

I thought I would be buying a double din setup down the road but I am very impressed with this setup so far. My phone can stay in my pocket all the music and calls work seamlessly.

I think if I did my speakers I would just add a 4 channel amp in the trunk and bybass a headunit all together.

Before I bought the bluetooth dongle I just plugged phone directly into the aux kit using it's 3.5mm. I thought the dongle would drop quality over the phones built in amp but I have noticed no difference and now it's fully wireless and has a built in mic for calls.

Here's my setup:

Aux Kit

The amp- This one works great turns on and off with car.

u/saltcreep_ · 2 pointsr/googlehome

I really like the buttons on my Bluetooth adapter, if they would have added those to this device it would have been perfect.

u/Alechilles · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I ended up ordering this for my car:

I'm not sure what I'll do for normal use with earbuds, but that's not quite as high of a concern for the moment. I don't listen to music on my phone much.

u/saltyfreshwaterman · 2 pointsr/fordranger

This is the one I bought mainly because it doesn't stick out to far.

u/DopeMan93 · 2 pointsr/nba




You can use any one, but just make sure it has Bluetooth 5.0

u/Sam_the_Engineer · 2 pointsr/LandRover

Pro tip... try a bluetooth to FM transmitter. I had one a while ago, and they are very convenient. The one below isn't the one I have experience with... just a generic one that popped up on amazon when I searched for it.

Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, QC3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player Car Kit with Hands Free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Flash Drive

u/TexturedSoyProtein · 2 pointsr/essential

There are a bunch of FM transmitters that are only a little bit bigger than a regular car charger, and have different higher powered USB ports on them that may work for you.


This one is from Anker, it doesn't have any specific quick charge standard, but it does have "intelligent" USB ports. Usually these do a good job of keeping things topped up.



There are some other random ones with 2 USB ports and at least 1 of them is QC3.0:



And this one, the FM transmitter controls are on a gooseneck thing, but the second non-QC3.0 USB port is 2.4A, if you care about such things.


u/bkmorse · 2 pointsr/Albany

If you can not fix the aux port, this might be worth looking into:

u/Superrocks · 2 pointsr/whatcarshouldIbuy

Edit: linked my charger for the car that has Bluetooth built in.... Oops

This thing works far better and is less intrusive to the cab, while offering fast charging

My girlfriend has a Kia Soul and I wouldn't recommend it for camping honestly. It doesn't really work well for the poles and such that he will have.

u/thfc11189 · 2 pointsr/Toyota

Just get one of these. I have it on my my own 05 Camry

u/DrStuttgart · 2 pointsr/Miata

Do you have a cigarette lighter?
Check these out!


I got this one for my car and it works well. It does have the occasional static while playing music which can be a bit annoying but it doesn't happen 100% of the time. Just a thought!

u/um_ognob · 2 pointsr/pics

Do you have a cigarette lighter? Here's a bluetooth device thats works as an FM wires. Also doubles as a charger and you can skip tracks directly on the plug-in.


u/WJMack · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/TheOSC · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you are still having this problem I can not recommend getting a Ground Loop isolator enough.


Amazon Link


It creates an isolation point which breaks ground loops (the cause of the interference) this thing is pretty much a $10 get out of jail free card for tons of audio quirks.

u/Schwein_ · 1 pointr/techsupport

I had a pretty simlair problem with my speakers. I don't know if this will help you but the solution for me was to buy a 'Noise Isolator'.

u/EmceeSpike · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yeah it's coming from the speakers. I didn't turn the car on, i just had the radio on. I'd turn up the volume without any songs playing and it makes this loud frequency noise, then when I play the music I can still hear it faintly.

It sounds like this :

You think using something like this would help?

u/ElTurbo · 1 pointr/prius

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/Riebeckite · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Interesting... looks like that may be my problem. From what I read briefly it seems like I can fix this with a ground lift or a ground loop isolator. Any thoughts between the two?

u/PhantomJulien · 1 pointr/audiophile

Do I just need to buy a group loop isolator to resolve the issue? like this?

So my external monitor (LG monitor), I plan on using it with an Apple TV (which is a black box) and unfortunately there’s no sound coming out anywhere as my monitor has no internal speakers. Therefore I’d have to plug in my apple tv via hdmi to my monitor, then use speakers to the monitor.

I plug my speakers into the wall as well so I’m not sure if that somewhat breaks the loop

EDIT: link

u/l0n3wanderer · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, I think I got this.


  1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
  2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
  3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
  4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
  5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.

    So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

    Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?
u/Megatf · 1 pointr/Twitch

Some ways to troubleshoot audio issues is ensure that your Focusrite and your streaming PC are plugged into the same power source (Differing power sources can cause line noise), your XLR cable could be shitty, your audio device could be failing, the gain on your Focusrite Scarlett could be too high, the audio device settings could be crappy.


One last thing it could be is to go into SLOBS, then right click your microphone setting, then see if there is a GAIN filter that is applied. Once I accidentally added a GAIN filter while messing around to my microphone in SLOBS and it was causing issues. The only filters your microphone should have is a Noise Suppression and a Noise Gate Filter (Or Alternatively a VST filter if you're really savvy).


If it's a wiring issue then:

Ground Loop Isolator should solve your problem. It's likely your motherboard audio device causing issues. A 3.5mm input into your PC is getting line noise. Ground Loop Isolators are super cheap, you can order them on Amazon or go to a local audio store and pick one up for <$10.

This is what I use for the inputs into my streaming PC that have this noise you're referring too (Has many ways it can be caused), it eliminates it without any noticeable reduction in audio quality.

u/LordXemnasXIII · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yes I ended up purchasing this and it cleared everything up.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator...

u/MUSAFFA1 · 1 pointr/audio

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

u/ilikecorn500 · 1 pointr/prius

I have a 2008 Prius with the same issue, I bought this one and it works wonders.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/71678910 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Try a ground loop isolator between your aux device and the aux port. It can help in a lot of cases. Worked to eliminate a high pitch hum in my line.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/audioengineering

You can probably use a ground loop isolator to keep the DC voltage away from your guitar.

Ordinarily, a computer microphone is not designed for a guitar, but can be used with one. Hope this works for you.

u/DarkS29 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Do you have something similar laying around? Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/gameboy2k · 1 pointr/headphones

My HiFime ES9023 DAC has a slight hiss when I put my volume above 60%. Does anyone have any experiences with a ground loop isolator like this or have any other solutions?

u/4eyescreative · 1 pointr/ZReviews
u/JustTryin2H3lp · 1 pointr/PUBGConsole

I use the a50s with built in mix amp and it works fine. You will want to invest 10$ into a ground loop isolator to remove interference.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/SteggyB · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

You hear a loud buzz in the recordings? Sounds like a simple ground loop issue. PS4 is not grounded, PCs are. When you connect an analog cable in between them, it causes a ground loop which causes buzzing.


If I'm correct in my assumptions, there are 2 solutions to this:

  1. If your aux cable is connected to your PS4 controller, make sure it's wireless. If the PS4 controller is plugged into the PS4 via USB it will pass through the ground loop.
  2. If wireless controller isn't an option, or the aux cable is plugged into the PS4 itself using some sort of HDMI audio extractor, you'd simply need a ground loop isolator - they're 10 bucks:
u/GiftyMayne · 1 pointr/pocketoperators

I'm not going to pretend I know more of the science behind why these work, but usually if I have a noisy signal, I will throw a ground loop isolator into the mix and it usually clears it up. I originally bought this thing because the headphone out from my monitor spits out NOISY ass audio with my nintnedo switch, this thing cleared up all the noise. Don't know if it will work for this case, but could be worth a shot:

I use mine when I sample to my po33 to be safe

u/LlamaInATux · 1 pointr/ManjaroLinux

Get a ground loop isolator. I use one in my car, makes a huge difference.

u/TurtlePrius · 1 pointr/prius

It’s very likely this. Mine did the same thing until I bought an isolator on Amazon:

u/BlckJesus · 1 pointr/CarAV

You mean like this? From what I’ve found, it seems that’s for use with aux cables. My head unit takes in audio over Bluetooth and sends it out directly over soldered wires connected to my harness. Would this still work the same way?

u/Sinpure · 1 pointr/Twitch

Thanks awwsyn. Noise Isolators? Like Ground Hum Eliminators? Did your experience present a similar sound? My incredibly limited experience indicated to me that the ground hum sound (which those helped with) were 50/60hz, based on where you are located. Again, VERY limited experience.

EDIT: these things? Might have to check it out, hadn't seen these ones at my local audio shop.

u/numbrmunchr · 1 pointr/essential

I went with these components Bluetooth aux adapter.[Adapter](BlueStream Paplio Bluetooth Handsfree Adapter - Bluetooth Receiver with 3.5mm AUX for High Quality Music / Navigation Streaming and Microphone for Calls (Black) [Ground Loop Isolator](Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) and a normal quick charger for the phone.

u/BriarRabbit · 1 pointr/DestinyTechSupport

Try picking up a ground loop isolator from amazon. I use this one and it works great Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/part_time_fun · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Get a ground loop isolator from Amazon.

I got this one and this exact problem went away. $9 well spent.

u/Aspirant_Fool · 1 pointr/techsupport

>powered subwoofer

Almost certainly ground loop noise. Something like this between the computer and the receiver should work.

u/Crab-Battle · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm no expert but here's a few things you could try.

  • If your volume is set high on your speakers and sub try turning it down a bit and using the laptops volume controls instead.

  • try using a different 3.5mm cable or an RCA to 3.5mm cable

  • try connecting it to a phone or another device and see if it still buzzes

  • try plugging it into a different power outlet

  • try a [ground loop isolator] (

u/ArkAngel06 · 1 pointr/Android

I recommend one of these. They work great and let you control the music tracks, podcasts, audiobooks from the controller.

And you might need of these if you get a little bit of feedback like me.

u/JBTownsend · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ground loop noise. Can be fixed with ground loop isolator.

u/Erosis · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

You might want to try this isolator or [this one] ( You definitely have some sort of interference, but without looking at every single connection, it is really hard to tell. My motherboard was the culprit and my Asus Xonar external couldn't even deal with it. I ended up getting a completely separate DAC and amp and using optical. However, this isolator will most likely do the job if you don't plan on spending lots on hi-fi equipment in the future.

u/herbuser · 1 pointr/Zeos
u/5py0n · 1 pointr/headphones

I do hear a difference between PC and AMP/DAC. Not a massive one, but still. Bigger issue is volume. Even at max volume levels everywhere X2's still sound pretty quiet for me.


I'm not sure what is this good for exactly, but what about this thing called Ground Loop Noise Isolator?

Is this something that can help here?

u/killimaze · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

You might be getting some feedback from an aux input, I had a similar problem when I was running a dual card setup to record and stream at the same time on xbox. Im on PC now and I still use this, it works great!

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It sounds like a ground loop. Does the buzzing/whine get louder as you turn up the volume?

If so, there are a few solutions:

  1. Make sure the PC is properly grounded to the outlet. If you are using a surge protector, make sure the "GROUNDED" light is on (or the "NOT GROUNDED" light is off, depending on the model of surge protector).
  2. Make sure the outlet is properly grounded. There are two ways to determine this. If you have a multimeter, just set the multimeter for 120V read, stick the black probe into the actual prong for the outlet and the red into the ground on the outlet. If the multimeter reads 120V, you're grounded. The other way involves removing the actual outlet from the wall and I won't give the directions for that since I'm not an electrician and I don't want you to die if you screw up.
  3. Make sure the motherboard is properly grounded. Since you built the PC yourself, double check to see that you only installed the necessary standoffs and that you didn't miss any or add any extra ones.

    If none of the above options worked, you'll need to purchase a Ground Loop Isolator. Cheap and they work extremely well.
u/bbtehbuild · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Here's what I currently have:

2 JBL 308P MkII - Powered 8" Two-Way Studio Monitors

1 UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord

1 Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable

1 Google Chromecast Audio (Black)



The red dots symbolize want I do not have yet. I'm working on eventually getting:

1 JBL LSR310S 10" Powered Studio Subwoofer

1 Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Second Generation (2nd Gen) 2-in, 2-out USB Audio Interface


Note: I have all that I need right now, but know that I may eventually buy a subwoofer for my studio monitors, which would make the setup more complicated. I only need help with adding the subwoofer. How will I do it? Will I need more cords and another ground loop isolator? Do I need an audio interface to add a subwoofer? How will I connect my 2 studio monitors and future subwoofer to my Chromecast Audio, my future audio interface, and a ground loop isolator?

u/msimon7 · 1 pointr/hometheater

good point, was planning on getting some thing like this if that is the case to help defuse.

always open for other suggestions tho... :)

u/GloriousEggroll · 1 pointr/linux_gaming

generally you want to use the ac97 audio for the vm, which still has the occasional crackle (not bad, useable/playable), but a better solution is to get a cheap usb sound card, pass it to the vm, and use a 3.5mm audio cable to send the signal from it to the audio line-in(usually colored blue) on your system, then listen to the line-in via loopback on pulseaudio. you may also need a ground loop isolator:

another note when using the ac97 audio is youll have to install the drivers in compatibility mode as win10 does not have drivers for it

u/DaemonSire · 1 pointr/headphones

Why not try a ground loop isolator? Like this:

Might fix the ground loop problem.

But you should still get sound even if you have ground loop.

u/Turbosack · 1 pointr/headphones

You could try one of these things to fix the buzz:

u/SykinDB · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I used this one and it worked pretty fine iirc:

u/LegendaryMood · 1 pointr/Twitch

That mixer was actually the first mixer I bought, too. It started my long, expensive journey into audio hardware specifically for 2 PC streaming setups. I tried many mixers, got frustrated and tried to downscale to just an interface, got frustrated with that and tried Voicemeeter but hated that.

If you're budget is around 200-400$ for the mixer, you can go with a ZED 10 FX. This was a popular mixer, with streamers like Lirik and Waffle using it. Waffle might even still use it. It has the ability to essentially produce 2 output mixes using a technique called mix minus. The mixer as a master mix output and an AUX/FX output. The mixer also has the ability to send inputs to master output or FX output or both - this is what enables this mixer to do the mix minus technique. You're basically abusing the FX output.

Going the mixer route like above will result in needing a lot of cables, "buzz boxes", etc. The ZED is also pretty big and takes up a lot of desk space. It gets messy, but it's all true-analog if that's your goal.

If you don't care about hearing the audio from your stream PC, you can easily just buy a line splitter and split your mic line - one to gaming PC the other to streaming PC. But, I imagine you want to hear the audio from your stream PC, too. You could just use a standard 3.5mm cable from stream PC back to gaming PC and then use software like Voicemeeter to mix them into your headphones. I did this for a bit, but I'm not a fan of Voicemeeter because it kept randomly not working for me.

You could always go the Voicemeeter VBAN route, and just pipe everything over your LAN using their VBAN feature. But for me this seemed to break a lot and just annoyed me. It's neat though and requires no cables or mixing hardware.

In the end, the best thing that I've found and settled on and currently use is just a higher end audio interface that comes with some really great mixing software. The interface I use is the Babyface Pro. Alone, this is just a glorified audio interface, but I also use a Digiface USB which is a digital audio interface. I found these through Lirik, who uses this now.

So, in the end, my setup is as so ...

  1. Babyface Pro plugged into my gaming PC
  2. Digiface USB plugged into streaming PC
  3. Headphones plugged into Babyface Pro

    With this setup, which is essentially just 2 audio interfaces, you can isolate basically any audio device into a recording channel and send it to and from the Digiface / Babyface. I've got channels that only I can hear, channels my stream can hear, mixes of channels, etc. I have my game console on its own channel, etc. It all "just works" and you can have MANY output channels instead of struggling to achieve only two. For example, the Digiface that I use has 66 channels.

    I do also have a Cloudlifter in my chain, but the Babyface Pro is good enough to give gain to my mic (sm7b). I'm tempted to take the Cloudlifter out and free up even more desk space.

    Audio is by far the biggest annoyance when moving to a two PC setup. Hope this helps.
u/Dinotective · 1 pointr/Twitch

Oh! Then you're ready to roll! The set should've come with some set up instructions. The setup should look like this:

Xbox USB and Optical go into the mixamp

Headset connects to mixamp

Stream/aux out goes from the mixamp to your PC's 3.5 audio-in port. You'll be able to add that audio as a source in OBS.

But before you do all this, install the Astro software on your PC so you can program the mixamp. I recommend setting it up so that ONLY chat audio goes through the 3.5 port, not the game audio (game audio will be better quality if you just use the audio from the HDMI/elgato).

Tweaking your sound levels will take some time because (as far as I know) you don't really have a way of monitoring/listening to what your viewers will hear as your streaming. What I did was record myself playing a quick game , joining chat and trying to talk as much as possible, then going back and listening to the recording. Based on what you hear, you tweak your game audio, chat audio and mic audio levels. I had to do this several times before I found a balance I was content with.

One last thing is that if you hear some high pitch interference coming from the 3.5 audio, you'll need a loop ground noise isolator. Here's the one I use:

u/Obi-Shinobi · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Is it like on old AM radio in cars you hear the engine noise in the radio? If so try this,

I had a lot of noise in my PC setup and that fixed it for me.

u/pepcfreak · 1 pointr/Twitch

I ended up getting two of these after some internet searching.

They did the job extremely well.

u/Mullematsch · 1 pointr/Twitch

Follow up to all of this, maybe someone stumbles across this thread eventually.

So the FX send output works, I connected it to my PC with a cable and a buzz box.

It is not mix minus, meaning I have the mic separately and the other output is everything I hear (PC audio + microphone).

Surprising to me was that the FX nob functions as gain for the FX send output. Meaning if I have it at 10 the signal is all distorted and if I have it a 1, I still get a clear output just more quiet.

Currently I have it at 3, that way its the same level as my voice using the stereo output.

This did fix my discord problem which is great.

u/Schlongathon · 1 pointr/audiophile


I recently bought the Micca PB42x and am having some problems that perhaps could be fixed. The speaker which contains the internal amp is making a whisling/whining sound whenever it is on. It doesn't matter if I have audio playing, nor does the volume of the audio affect it. I have it connected via the 3.5mm cable that came with it and the two speakers are joined via the speaker wire that came with it.

My current set-up is not ideal (I will take and upload pictures after work). I think that I might be getting some noise or perhaps there is a ground loop somewhere. I purchased this but I did not notice any noticeable difference, not even a little bit. Maybe the ground loop isolator I bought is faulty or I attempted to fix something that wasn't the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

u/Nerosephiroth · 1 pointr/techsupport

Like all wires, they are susceptible to ground loop interference. The best way to accommodate for this interference is a ground loop isolator. Headphone Ground Loop Isolator

This is to keep buzzing noises from reacting badly with devices that also draw power from your laptop, sound system, or when your Desktop is not properly grounded and you get a similar buzzing. I notice this primarily when I am in my car and hear a horrible buzzing when I plug my phone into the car 12v charge port, but also have the aux cable plugged in. Similar situations can occur when a headphone is placed into an onboard audio jack with the laptop plugged into wall mains.

As per usual this is a simple solution to a specific problem. Your problem may be with a break in the insulation in the headphone cable, inspect for damage, and move devices that generate RF or electrical interference from your headphone cable in general.

u/I_Am_The_Shazbot · 1 pointr/audio Its pretty cheap but from what I have read online all ground loop noise isolaters will reduce audio quality.

u/5eth · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you want to use in game voice chat with your stream hearing all of the audio, you will need a few things:

Splitter - This splitter is the only one I found that correctly splits the Mic line from the Headset line. This will plug directly into the Switch, then you'll plug your headset into the jack with the mic, and the other jack will be a 3.5mm line going into the Elgato.

Ground Loop Isolator - The splitter is going to create an audio loop buzzing noise, you'll need this to isolate that and keep the audio clean. This will go between the splitter and the Elgato.

3.5mm Cable - If you don't already have one, you'll need one of these to link the Switch to the Elgato.


That is the only way I was able to use in game voice chat while streaming. Currently I just use Discord to chat through the PC, and send the Switch audio to the PC as well so it all goes to the stream. However, if you want to use in game voice chat you'll need to do the above.


u/ev3rm0r3 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

[Oak Wood 8' x1"x6" 30$]
[4" Midwoofer 1 Dayton Audio TCP115-4 4" 12$] (
[3" Full Range 2 Dayton Audio PC83-4 3" 20$] (
[1" Softdome Tweeter 2 Dayton Audio ND25FA-4 1" 40$] (
[3" Passive Radiator 2 830878 3-1/2" Passive Radiator 20$] (
[Crossovers 2 uxcell 2 Pcs 130W 2-Way 15$] (
[2.1 100x1 50x2 Amplifer 1 AIYIMA TPA3116D2 25$] (
[26650 Rechargable Cells 6 26650 Litokala 5000mah 25$] (
[BMS 24V 1 6S 15A 24V PCB BMS Protection Board 2$] (
[Bluetooth Board 1 Bluetooth w/ mp3 tf fm + controls 4$] (
[Boost Controller step-up-down 1 Regulated Step-up-Down Boost controller 3$] (
[dc-dc 1w converter 5v 1 1w 5v dc-dc converter for bluetooth module 1$] (
[dc power jack 1 dc power jack 1$] (
[3.5mm sound isolator 1 3.5mm sound isolater (filters out ground noise on line in) 10$] (
[power button 1 Lit power button 8$] (
[Battery Holders 6 Battery Holders 10$] (

u/olorin_istar · 1 pointr/infiniti

This is the bluetooth unit
You will also need one of these because when you are powering the bluetooth dongle with that rear cig lighter it will add a ton of static to the sound unless you have this installed.

Ill look for pics on my phone

u/jdegraff89 · 1 pointr/e39

You need to get a Ground Loop Noise Isolator.

Thats exactly the one I used in my car when I installed an AUX and found it wouldn't work when the phone was charging. It also kept the stereo in AUX mode when the ignition was shut instead of having to switch back to it everytime.

u/majorjxp · 1 pointr/Lexus

You will want a ground loop isolator.

It will eliminate the car noise.

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/oneplussupport

def sounds like a grounding issue then! I had the same problem with my ceiling speakers.

You can buy devices that kill and solve this grounding feedback problem. This device worked perfectly for me. You place it between your phone and the car stereo system and it should solve your problem.

hope this helps!

u/rjames24000 · 1 pointr/PS4

I have been able to do it and would be happy to share my experience with you to save you the pain of my research...

I am using this sound card that comes with cronusmax which I plug into my ps4

I have this trss audio splitter plugged into said sound card

There was a ton of ground loop feed back... so i had to get 2 of these plugged into the split mic and headphone ports

then plug one end into your computers microphone (ps4 audio out goes into pc mic in)

and the other end.. (ps4 audio in) goes into your pc's audio out...

for control of the audio im using voice meeter and voice mod... My headset is a wireless ps4 platinum headset with the usb plugged into the computer.. and I use a normal physical microphone rather than the platinum headset mic .. I havean old launchpad midi controller used for muting and various audio effects.

u/chhopsky · 1 pointr/Twitch

I recommend NOT using GameCapture to stream. As usual, the tier list goes:

I'm Just Getting Started: OBS Studio
I Want To Do Better: XSplit Personal
Time To Get Serious: Gameshow
Professional: XSplit Premium, Wirecast

XSplit will let you choose to play the audio from the xbox through your PC's main audio output.

Of course, the best way to do this is to route the audio output from your Xbox through the Aux input of an Astro Mixamp, remembering that if they're connected to the same power source you should use a $10 Ground Loop Isolator to avoid a mild buzzing sound. But don't worry, that's just for you and it doesn't come through to the stream.

I'm going to do a 2016 wrapup article detailing all this soon.

u/pegamixels · 1 pointr/wow

I had the same exact problem. The speakers plugged into my sound card would produce this awful coil whine that was terrible while playing WoW or Marvel Heroes. I built a new PC and the sound stopped whenever I used the front headphones jack, but the back still produced this issue.

I bought this:

I no longer have the coil whine coming out of my speakers/headphones. Pretty sure any ground loop isolator would work.

u/Colek1Rewson · 1 pointr/bose

I actually do this in a nice little way. I have my headphones connected to the PC via bluetooth, and use a male to male audio cord to connect my Switch to the line-in port on the motherboard. This allows my PC to read and project the Switch audio as well as Discord simultaneously through the headset.

You may have to tweak some settings on your PC for this to work, and for me I needed a noise isolator as well to get rid of any static background noise.
This is what I use:

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/Zeos

You might. The shared ground cable on the boompro means when there are two different units connected it may hum. You would need an isolator box like this on the headphone end.

u/jm090 · 1 pointr/headphones

I had to buy this item below for my tube amp:


this fixed it instantly. I cannot hear the noise from any of my other amps. Mine seemed to be specifically related to my video card though, and also my house does not have any true grounds, its pretty old.

u/tmwrnj · 1 pointr/Guitar

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

u/iRacerJJ · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

So just to update a solution

  1. Get the base station away from your rig
  2. Ground your rig/servo motor
  3. Use Ferrites on all valve Index connectors and Servo connectors

    eBoot 20 Pieces Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable, Black
u/thisgameissoreal · 1 pointr/techsupport

you could try throwing some ferrite beads on your line. If it got any better you'd know it was interference.

u/MDavidP · 1 pointr/xboxone

I picked up one these to run the USB from my Astro mixamp to my Xbox. I was having the same issue and this fixed it. They're plug and play too, no drivers. It is 50 bucks though so maybe not the most economical solution.

Look in to ferrite cores too. I have these wrapped around almost every cord I own.

Audio Quest Jitterbug

Ferrite Core

u/topcat81 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Just thought of something else... What about Bluetooth? Have you paired your Echo with something that could be transmitting to it? Could someone else have paired with it who is nearby when you hear the voice(s)?

Going back to potential RFI, I'm with /u/moronmonday526. Put a ferrite or two on the power cord and see if it helps. Also, try a different outlet in a different room.

If you have a battery base, you could just, of course, unplug the AC adapter and confirm/rule out that as a source (basically acting as an antenna).

FWIW, I haven't had any RFI with either the Echo or Google Home when I transmit (I'm one of the ham radio guys moronmonday mentioned). That said, we hams tend to be good at tracking down RFI and most hams are willing to lend a hand to help out a neighbor. Have any around you could call on? I doubt his/her radio is getting into your Echo from your description, but they can lend a hand in sniffing out the offending source if it is RFI.

Edit: fix link

u/Heatedcathode · 1 pointr/amateurradio
u/tominabox1 · 1 pointr/vinyl

culprit is likely the cable/wire that feeds into your powered speakers. keep this very short. If that doesn't help, pick up these and clip to the wires as close to the speaker inputs as possible. Helps even more if yu can loop the wire through the beads like this:

u/Sariden · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I've been struggling from audio noise/pops as well. I recently decided I wanted to build an all-in-one console out of a lunch box, the 7" official screen, this battery bank as well as these speakers and this amp to run off GPIO pins. After some struggle I finally got it to work; however, the crackling and noisy audio was still present like using the headphone jack. I tried doing the additions to the config.txt file for dither and pwm modes but they didn't do anything. I also can't seem to do sudo rpi-update from the console.

Today I have some snap on ferrite cores coming in so i'm going to see if that helps. If that fails I'm either going to give a USB adapter or the in-line ground loop linked by rhinofinger a chance.

u/illGATESmusic · 1 pointr/audioengineering

You need an AuKey ground loop hum remover. They are real cheap and will totally handle this problem.

Recent USB stuff causes this issue a LOT.

All my synths with USB connections cause it. I had to get one for each synth before it stopped.

It works tho!

This lil fella: AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator...

u/TessellatedGuy · 1 pointr/SwitchHacks

I have one from [Aukey] (

Edit: apparently the 14.50 dollar isolator from Kript is better at handling bass according to the top review, but it's also more expensive.

u/SgtBobIE · 1 pointr/steelseries

You might want to look at a ground loop isolator, I had to get one when doing the same as you. Without it, there was bad static, You plug the aux cable into it then into the aux in on the transmitter.


This is what I have used, I also use one to run sound From one PC to the Line-In on another PC.


u/socalproxyplayers · 1 pointr/Dell

you need an audio filter. I run one of these with all my docks. it's because of a lack of EMF shielding or electromagnetic field shielding. see, when electricity runs through a circuit it inherently 'leaks' an EMF field. This field is then absorbed by other components (if they're unshielded) and those components absorb the field and this creates what's called 'noise' on the channel. this noise can manifest itself as hissing, cracking, or popping when heard by human ears.

most EMF noise is harmlessly absorbed and accounted for by components when doing day to day operations. but audio chips and ethernet cables are most impact by this. that's why ethernet cables are shielded. but cheap audio chips aren't unfortunately. getting a 'filter' will remove the 'noise' off of the audio 'line'. can't recommend them enough.

There's hundreds of these on Amazon but you could start here:

u/rufus40444 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I actually think this is a common issue.
You need something like this:

EDIT: yeah, we posted the same product. lol

u/gladiator0607 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I ran a 3.5 mm cable from the headphone port of my Switch to the audio in on my motherboard with a ground loop noise isolator in between the two. You don't need the ground loop noise isolator if the Switch is in handheld mode but if it's docked, you'll get some wicked buzzing and potentially mess up your motherboard if you don't have the isolator. Works like a charm but I'm not sure how you'd accomplish that with the PS4.

u/Yolo_Swagginson · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I had a similar problem going from the line out of my Fiio E10k into a power amp. Put this in the 3.5mm run and it fixed it.

u/ShadowBoogers · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Assuming the cable hasn't been damaged, plug it into the motherboard (not the case, those cables are poorly shielded) and use one of these:

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Stereo Systems and Home Audio Systems, 3.5mm Audio Cable Included

u/mdcio · 1 pointr/MINI

This happens to me too, but only when I’m plugged into aux and charging at the same time. You could try a ground loop isolator, which supposedly solves this problem but I haven’t confirmed myself.

u/ChaosandTerror · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

That's because it isn't grounded properly and you need an aux cable that specifically grounds the signal.

u/Maltosier · 1 pointr/letsplay

Yes. I've had this problem.

You may need to buy a specific device to solve this issue.

Here is more info:

I bought the cable it recommends and it solved the problem entirely. :)

u/jmickelonis · 1 pointr/steelseries

Are you using the line in on your PC? You need a ground loop isolator. It'll do this with any headset you try.

u/ZippZappZopp · 1 pointr/audio

Looks like the guy in this post was having the same problem, and he fixed it with one of these.

Last thing you could try is plugging the switch and PC into the same outlet/power bar.

If that doesn't work, and there's no 3.5mm output on your TV, that noise isolator would probably be the easiest solution.

u/EliteMist · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Yes I do have a cartridge copy but I am sure it is the 3.5mm cord since it only happens when I use that (I have tried a few cords) thinking about trying this

u/sageredwood · 1 pointr/preppers

I have had very good luck with this.

So, if you are going to use headphones, like at all I would suggest getting this.

Handy for any headphone application. I carry one in my edc.

u/brentnotbret · 1 pointr/Moto_Z

Ran into the same problem when the Note 9 went on sale and I jumped ship, but this mount and this Bluetooth adapter saved the day for me.

u/ncl_fit42 · 1 pointr/chevycolorado

This was my first thought after getting my WT. But scrap that idea. Go pick up this thing (link below) and save yourself some money. It works wonders in my WT!

u/neongasoline · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I absolutely love this one

it works pretty good and looks really nice in my car, small and unobtrusive

there sometimes it doesn't auto connect but you just have to click the button and it only takes a couple seconds to connect

u/jinsaku · 1 pointr/CarAV

This looks great. Does it auto-start your music as well as soon as it reconnects? (assuming it's only been a few minutes or so)

(EDIT: That looks like it's possible a knockoff? No labeling. This looks like the same Mpow one and only $5 more)

u/andyooo · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

There are many, look on Amazon. Personally I liked the Sony RM-X7BT, but they have discontinued it in the US and probably other markets. Look for something like this These type of adapters don't have a battery, they're designed for cars, so they can turn on and off with the ignition (if your car turns on/off the 12V sockets; mine doesn't). This particular set comes with a ground loop isolator, which you may not need, you'll only need it if you hear static or whirring (from the engine).

Bear in mind that these cheap ones will likely sound like butt with calls due to not prioritizing mic quality, and using the old BT narrowband standard. Since the BT Hands-free Profile 1.6 (circa 2011), BT has been able to do wideband or "HD Voice" quality, but not all manufacturers use it, and good luck finding one that advertises it.

I liked the Sony one because the BT receiver/mic was separate from the controls so you could position it better. The control unit is completely wireless and battery powered, and IR so it needs line of sight, but on the upside the battery lasts very long, and unlike BT remotes, it doesn't need to go to sleep, it just always instantly works, like a regular TV remote. The mic quality was also excellent and noise reduction top notch, I tested it by recording directly on my computer connected to Hangouts and going for a drive. I went that far. It also has HFP 1.6 with wideband, as all modern Sony BT devices, and even has an external mic input. If you can find it and the price is not too expensive for you, I recommend it.

u/mellofello808 · 1 pointr/Android

If you have aux in this is what you want


Try to avoid fm transmitters at all costs. I had a similar one to this and it worked great.

u/goldberg1303 · 1 pointr/Android



Personally, I'd splurge for teh $26 unit since it has the ground loop isolator, and hands free calling, but the cheaper one offers less clutter.

Like I said, whether you have a headphone jack or not, I'd definitely consider either of those a good investment. And it has the bonus of making the lack of a headphone jack in your car an afterthought.

u/cardfire · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto


1. BT-->Aux car kit adapter, with a big button that, when held, gives voice assistant prompt. also handy for pause/resume without reaching for stereo deck.

2. Physical Mic-button on my Pioneer stereo unit.

3. Eventually finding and troubleshooting why my Android phone won't listen to mic for ambient "OK GOOGLE" requests when screen is locked/asleep. I'm not there yet.

Option 1.

Before I bought my new stereo for my new-old-car, I bought a highly-recommended MPOW BT-->AUX car kit from Amazon after scouring reviews.

I hated it.

It directly led to me shelling out almost $500 for a new head unit, steering control adapter and enough cabling to wire a space shuttle prepping to go into orbit.

BUT I haven't yet returned it to Amazon, and after admiring its One Big Button on the face of the thing (and the elegant magnet mount) I figured "what the hell."

My Android phone still paired with it automatically, even while also paired to the head unit simultaneously.

I pushed the button and it paused my music.

I booped the button again and it unpaused.

I pressed it firmly for FOUR OR FIVE FREAKING SECONDS and it promped me with the Google Assistant cue. Success.

Option 2.
I checked the PDF manuals online (pg's 26/27) and found the following Pioneer AVH-series head units have essentially the same instructions for "Voice Recognition (for iPhone)" which appears to have the correct equivalent behavior for Android devices (and I'm assuming the other NEX series models have the same button):

AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400NEX

[AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400]

That fat little bumblebee logo on my stereo was actually an obvious Mic emblem the whole while. This is technically a physical button that will consistently prompt my Google Assistant, even if the button is smallish and doesn't really lend itself to pressing without looking (I'll orient my hands against the 'Eject' button seated to the ride of it).

Option 3.
I think the holy grail would be if I could figure out why the menu for (Android P) Settings-->Assist App (Settings)-->"Voice Match" grays out "Access with Voice Match" in order to access Assistant any time even if screen is off.

If anybody has experience with this, I'd love to hear about it.

u/Engibineer · 1 pointr/vwgolf

I have one of these Bluetooth adapters in my Mazda. It plugs in to the aux input and it has physical buttons and a microphone on a small unit with a magnetic release that you put somewhere convenient. You could connect either your Android or your iPhone to it and then the other phone to your car's Bluetooth. It's a kludge but maybe it will accomplish what you need.

I was told that my 2017 Alltrack would accept two simultaneous Bluetooth connections, but that appears to be incorrect. Interestingly, the instructions for that Bluetooth adapter also say that two simultaneous connections are possible, but I haven't been able to get it to work either. Bluetooth is just bad.

u/Artificial_Cinnamon · 1 pointr/CrappyDesign

I'm not discounting the problem at all. I completely agree.

Have you looked at the car Bluetooth adapters?

I don't endorse that one specifically, but I've been using one for years in my car. Automatically connects when I get in, they're pretty excellent.

u/Pizza2kbitchslut · 1 pointr/Android

Maybe you could get an updated Bluetooth dongle thing for the cars aux? Like this one?

u/whisperedecho · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

You can use something like this to get Bluetooth, it's what I use.

TaoTronics Bluetooth Car Kit, Bluetooth Receiver, Bluetooth 4.2 Hands-Free Audio Adapter (Built-in Microphone, CVC 6.0 Noise Cancellation, 3M Magnetic Base, Air Vent Clip, Dual 2.1A USB Car Charger)

u/Mikep976 · 1 pointr/AppleWatch

I’m not sure it works with cars that have built in Bluetooth, but I bought this Bluetooth adapter of Amazon. Plugs into my Aux port. Then it shows up in the Bluetooth settings on the Watch itself. Pair to it, then I was able to start pairing. If you car has built in Bluetooth I would start there and try, but I can’t speak to any results.

u/ReallyLongUserName01 · 1 pointr/illinois

Here's my setup:

u/primo_pastafarian · 1 pointr/Android

Get this.

You can run the wires behind the dashboard to keep the cables out of the way. Personally, I put a car power adapter back up there too. The only thing that is visible is the control interface.

This shit's amazing. Added benefit, you won't get charging frequencies / noise / static feedback playing back on audio while you're charging.

u/ledzep7 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

You'll want something like this then

Option 1

Option 2

u/elroes · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I'm in a similar situation, but I have an adapter that I have to press a button to pair to the phone. So I start the car, phone connects to car Bluetooth, then I press the adapter and it connects to it. Somehow audio goes through the adapter and calls automatically go to my car. I didn't do anything special, it's been that way since day one. Can't find my specific adapter but it's similar to this one.

u/Seanshadow · 1 pointr/audible

Like others have said bluetooth fm transmitters are the way to go. Here’s what I have in both my cars

u/Mostlydave · 1 pointr/audible

I would think about a radio transmitter like this:

[](Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, QC3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player Car Kit with Hands Free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Flash Drive

As long as your radio works

u/Ferrari-559 · 1 pointr/cars

I have recently bought this and it works perfectly.
Also, if you are in the US, use this website to find the best station in your area

u/deWaardt · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

What you could do, it's not the most recommended solution, but you could buy one of these Bluetooth to FM transmitter. One like this.

Basically, you connect your phone to it using bluetooth, and the device then creates an FM signal you can tune in to with your radio. They're not the best probably, but they're cheap and will work in every car that has a cigarette lighter and an FM radio.


I bought one for my Mazda 6 since the radio I have is not compatible with the AUX mod and it works great.

The only real problem is that it's pretty prone to interference. If you're playing on frequency 99.90, but there's another channel on or near that frequency as well you're gonna have interference.

I just put mine to the lowest frequency it would go, noone broadcasts there over there so sound quality is great.

u/torokunai · 1 pointr/leaf

on my 2015 S I ended up using a BT --> FM adapter for my podcasts.

something like:

it mostly worked fine (music sounded like ass)

u/theyre_whores_im_in · 1 pointr/deals

direct u/mnluxury11 spam-bypassing link

Please report this post and user u/mnluxury11 to the mods for breaking the rules for personal profit.

u/LocationBot · 1 pointr/legaladvice


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Author: /u/ohNole

Title: I purchased a phone charger off of Amazon and it broke my phone.

Original Post:

> The charger in question is here. I plugged my phone in and it went black after a few minutes, then went into this cycle of showing the Apple screen then going black again - over and over until it died. Tried the phone this morning and to no avail - same thing. My phone's battery is shot, the home button/finger scanner is not functioning due to lack of power (can't do hard reset), and the phone won't turn on.
> At the least I want Amazon to cover the price of the replacement battery (if that's the solution), but what happens if the phone is shot? Is amazon liable? The page even specifically says, "Smart output current pairs all cellphone and tablet, safely charging to your device without damage to the battery."

LocationBot 4.6319918 & 17/64ths | Report Issues

u/kspdrgn · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yes, avoid +db on any part of your signal path, be it a head unit setting or bass boost knob.

Set gains to maximize clean output, then use something like an RCA cable volume knob to dial down your sub to taste.

u/Brocktar · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I have the 793II, headphones and powered monitors and one thing you will want to have is a line level controller like this [one] ( as the 793II has a line out not a pre out. This way you don't have to change your computer's volume when you want to change your powered monitors volume.
I am still an audio Padawan, but the SMSL Sanskrit DAC with a FiiO K5 AMP seem to fit what you need, others will have to comment on sound quality as I don't have any experience with them.

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 1 pointr/hometheater

you need gain control.

between the player and the amp.


you can add attention between the amp and the speakers too.

u/DavidBernheart · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

My powerful yet stealthy touch screen sound system for about $500: An Amazon kindle running the Pandora app sits in a kitchen cabinet. Plugged into the audio out is a headphone to RCA adapter. That's plugged into a passive volume control mounted beneath the cabinet. The output drops down to the basement, where I have a signal detecting power amplifier. That amp drives four Polk in-ceiling speakers mounted in our open concept first floor.

u/somethinguni · 1 pointr/amateurradio

That does seem like quite a mismatch! I'm hoping that's what the problem is. Do you reckon something like this would effectively attenuate the signal for what I'm trying to do?

u/ShagNasticator_ · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/sampsans-ape-spray · 1 pointr/vinyl

That turntable has a pre-amp. Why did you buy a separate one?

For controlling volume, I think you would need an inline volume control in between your pre-amp and the amp. Something like this:

However, note that those can only REDUCE the if the amp isn't loud enough to begin with, I'm not sure what your options are.

u/shoturtle · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

sorry miss read. thought you I read r1850db.

It is a bit complicated. What you need to do is split the input signal that you are getting form the RCA, One set to the R1280DB master, and one set will go to the sub. If you want simpler volume control for the sub. Get a RCA gain knob, and put it inline to the sub.

But this will not work for optical. With optical. You have the issue of stereo bass. You would run the speaker cable to the a sub that has high level input. The run the speaker wire form the high level output to the slave speaker. But you wont get bass in stereo. Only bass form the slave will be played.

u/alone-on-earth · 1 pointr/Guitar

cool, thanks for the link!.. That appears to be the only thing of its kind available on the web.. Do you know what would be the appropriate configuration (mono/stereo, pot value) for something like the Kemper? And is that knob not the same thing as, say, this?

u/billybombill · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I have one of these for an old subwoofer setup, something like this should work well for your needs :)

u/EndEndian · 1 pointr/audiophile

If you don't have measuring equipment or some resistors handy, an easy way to confirm too much output signal is by putting the Kenwood (or another pre-amp or pre-amp section of an integrated amplifier) between the new pre-amp and the computer, via the Kenwood's line-in instead of its phono in.

Or borrow a passive volume knob (or "bass control knob" in car audio) such as:

u/redditfromwork · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yes, any decent amp should come with the remote gain knob (shitty amps come with bass boost knob, which you absolutely do not want to use), if it doesn't just pick up a PAC-LC1 for $10-15. Lots of people running very high end gear run those, it's especially helpful for controlling multiple amps at once since it attenuates the input signal.

u/Sayne86 · 1 pointr/audio

That looks good, but what about this for a budget solution?

PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller

u/Apatinop · 1 pointr/CarAV

I'll probably have to get them to install a new one anyways guess I'll have to drive without bass for little while. :/ This is the knob itself

u/Phlat_Dog · 1 pointr/audiophile

Ooh even better! Would something dirt cheap like this little guy or this tiny thing be alright? I'm a broke college kid with JBL LSR305s and a cheap JBL sub. I would get two: one for the 305s and one for the sub.

u/SmittyJonz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Nah, you just split your rcas or 3.5mm but then you have to rely on pc volume control OR add a line level controller.

Can do Cheapo like

u/IronMonkeyButt · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I believe the green rimmed ones are at Amazon for the same price:

If I can recommend, get a line level controller so you can turn the volume up and down independent of your computer (

u/bigbura · 1 pointr/audiophile

OP didn't respond yet so I'll help out with my setup. Scarlett 2i4 as interface between PC and speakers. Looks like OP is using a PAC LC-2 to merge the sub with the powered speakers.

Set speaker volumes to 6.5 to cut some of the hiss as this is a very near-field setup for me. Others have had success at different volumes on the speakers but most do turn them down from wide open...

u/BigTerminator · 1 pointr/audiophile

Fellow Airmotiv user, why no Sys or Control Freak?

The Schiit Magni 2 Uber can be used as a headphone amp and passive preamp for speakers.

Otherwise there is not that much on the market for cheap. You would be looking at something like this

u/3meta5u · 1 pointr/Chromecast

Worst case you can go old school and patch in a line level attenuator. Both fixed and variable are available. Here is a variable one

u/L10ydchristmas1 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Thank you for the comments. The second one shows the installation of a potentiometer using one of the speaker leads, which seems to be a good way to externally mount the Pandora Box 6 volume control (instead of having to open the cabinet to adjust the wheel on the actual device). However, I think the leads to the potentiometer would need to be extended to allow it to cleanly mount to the outside of the cabinet.

The first video shows a solution designed to work with something more customizable, like a Raspberry Pi. I just like how professional it looks. The downside is that you have to drill the holes perfectly since at least two of the holes won't be covered by any trim (the amp controls go right through the holes).

The fact that the speaker and power switch can connect directly to the Pandora's Box were big pluses for me. However, from what I read, it seems like different games have different volume levels so I do think having an external volume control is a good idea. The more I read, the more I think I may go with a Raspberry Pi according to ETA Prime's tutorial, deal with the script edits necessary to get the power button to work semi-correctly (seems to just allow the RP to shut down but the amp stays on) and use some of the ideas from the first video I posted. It just seems to allow for the cleanest design with most flexibility going forward.

I guess the ideal solution would be Raspberry Pi + a cheap amp that has a clean externally mounted volume control. Maybe something like this ?

u/ynanyang · 1 pointr/ECE
u/LostReaction · 1 pointr/ZReviews

So when I bought mine I ordered one of these amplifier controller thingies. I have it connected between my DAC and the 305's. It works well enough but I've found it more convenient just to adjust the volume in Windows. I have the actual volume on the back of each monitor set to "5" to prevent me from easily maxing out the volume in windows. With the volume at 5 these are plenty loud enough for a desk.

You had the right idea with the line level controller. I personally don't hear a difference between in sound quality with using the line level controller and having it disconnected but I know some people are much more critical than I am.

Good luck with your setup!

u/BeardedAlbatross · 1 pointr/ZReviews

There are a bunch that look like this. MCM Electronics also sells a version on their site for under $40 that has an IR remote, so you can add it to any living room setup no matter if they are powered monitors, integrated amp, power amp, anything.

u/SgtPainguin · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Something like this would work

u/upinthecloudz · 1 pointr/audiophile

Ahh, hum is quite different. That's likely grounding noise, and would be less common on higher end equipment, but you'd be surprised where this kind of issue rears it's ugly head :/ You can confirm this is the problem by turning up the volume on the amp when the source cables are not connected to another device. If it's grounding noise, you won't hear the hum unless the cables are plugged into a source that is also plugged into the wall.

You aren't too worried about extreme details of sound quality with this system, so a ground-isolation transformer is probably the best way to fix the hum and improve the experience of using the system.

Assuming your sub is not producing a distracting hum, the best place to install an isolation transformer is between the sub and the amp, as these are the devices most likely to be creating a ground loop. The cheapest option I found on a quick Amazon search:

u/SandFate · 1 pointr/CarAV

So, here are some common ways to remove "static" from your system.

  1. Upgrade your ground wires. (for your car battery, stereo, Alternator, and your amplifier negative connection) Make sure your amp's ground wire is connected to a CLEAN piece of metal on the body, no paint!

  2. Connect a ground wire to the negative side of the RCA plugs going into the amplifier.

  3. Double check how your RCA's are run through the car.
    If you have your main power wire for your amp running on the left side of the car, then you want to have your RCA's and Speaker wires running on the opposite side of the car.

  4. Use "Ground Loop Isolators" on every pair of RCA's going into the amplifier.

  5. Make sure your positive and negative connections to the amp is clean and solid, not loose or damaged looking.

  6. Make sure you have a nice tight connection on the battery and that the battery connections are tight. Also check both sides of the fuse on the amp's power wire near the battery. Make sure the connections are clean and inserted completely.

    Try those. If you still have a noise issue, then we can do a real diagnostic from there.
u/ThePookums · 1 pointr/buildapc

I had similar issues with a car audio setup, where I wasn't able to properly ground my amplifier due to it being a cheap Japanese car with no solid metal anywhere near the trunk. I bought an inline ground loop isolator and it really made a big difference. Something like this:

u/rambler429 · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's either noise on the power line which would need a power noise filter or its in the ground loop and needs a ground loop isolator.

Some amps pick up noise.

u/sheffy55 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

That said there is a constant whine when the car isn't running and the amp is on as well

I've tried this and my next item is this

u/Carlobv · 1 pointr/buildapc

For anyone that's having a similar issue, I bought this:

and the problem is gone.

u/bpsuxballz · 1 pointr/audioengineering

a ground loop isolator should do the trick. i had a similar problem when i bought my HS5's. something cheap like this should do the trick.

u/Choppin_Broccoli_ · 1 pointr/mazda3

Basically it's a filter that goes on the power line going from the car into the head unit. In my case I cut the large yellow and black wires in the adapter harness and wired in the filter (this will at least involve crimping or soldering).

If you're not comfortable cutting wires you can always try traditional RCA ground loop isolators like this. I tried these as well and while I did notice a decrease in the noise it was still present. These don't require cutting, just plug the RCA plugs on the harness adapter into the isolators, then plug the RCA plugs on the isolators into the radio.

u/franco90 · 1 pointr/htcone

This or this may be worth a try.

u/djkrugger · 1 pointr/CarAV

The problem is a ground loop, you need an isolator but in the audio line not in the charger, something like this.

u/ProtonTrev · 1 pointr/battlefield_4

> if you are on a laptop there isnt much you can do unless you want to spend a lot of money on an external DAC

A ground loop isolator should do the trick:

But it sounds like the OP's computer isn't grounded. Resolving that would eliminate the buzz sound.

u/nicelander · 1 pointr/microbrute

It might be ground loop feedback. You can get a special cable to remedy that.

Not sure if this is the problem but it might be.

u/style26062 · 1 pointr/amateurradio

I had issues with a hum on the audio out of my Kenwood TS-940 into my PC. Turned out to be a ground loop issue. I bought an audio isolation transformer and that fixed it.

Something Similar to this.

u/TSGS · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Get one of these:
Ground Loop Isolator

Ugly, but it works. I use it all the time in my '06 Sienna.

u/xitech · 1 pointr/razer

Something like this might help. Some other fixes are cleaning your contacts, using shorter wires, keeping audio wires away from other wires, getting away from RF sources, etc.

Feedback is a pain to troubleshoot. The product I posted may or may not work. Good luck.

EDIT: note that the one I linked has reversed plug genders for what you'd want on your pc, but there are others around for around the same price so you don't have to stack a bunch of adapters on it.

u/aneren · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

I had the same problem with static in the car. I bought this ground loop noise isolator for $9 on Amazon and it fixed the problem for me. It might be worth a shot.

u/Zaii · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

If you get noise while using the 3.5mm cable in your car while charging your phone i would invest in a ground loop isolator

this fixed my problem

u/castillar · 1 pointr/Volvo

The static noise might be due to poor isolation between the power and audio lines in the Bluetooth unit--I had the same issue with mine. The solution was to buy a grounding unit like this one that sits inline on the audio cable. Worked like a champ, and the cable on it is long enough that I can put the whole thing out of sight.

u/talones · 1 pointr/iphone

Are you using a noise isolator in your car? My iPhone 6s sounds perfect over Bluetooth since I added this...

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others

u/PieRhett · 1 pointr/vinyl

I'm getting a lot of static coming from my speakers. Too much to enjoy any music.

It's only happening when my preamp (Music Hall Mini) is plugged in (and turned on).

I'm using a U-Turn Orbit Plus as my record player.

Does anyone have any suggestion for how to eliminate the static?

I tried plugging in an Aux>RCA cable in to a ground loop isolator that I have, but the only thing it did was reduce the gain/maximum volume level. It did not help reduce the static.

The basic setup I'm working with is Turntable>RCA/RCA>Preamp>RCA/RCA>Speakers

I have no idea what I'm doing so any suggestions would be much appreciated - thanks!!

u/PabloEdvardo · 1 pointr/techsupport

Use it inbetween the ipod and the adapter.

Here's another one that might make more sense.

u/AchillePomeroy · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yeah. You'll want to get one of these cables, and go from your headphone port to either channel 5/6 or channel 7/8. Red goes in Right, black in left.
You will also probably need a ground loop isolater. Something like this one. Otherwise you may hear some static over the wires.

u/glenbot · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

I don’t know much about console because I’m mostly a PC gamer but I would try the following things:

  1. Get a high quality HDMI cable or just a different one and see if you still have issues.

  2. Use the headphone jack on the console and split the audio — one to your PC and one to your headphones. If you use this method you might need a DAC to amplify the signal before the split. I’ve also found the line splitter sometimes cause noise so you can get a ground loop eliminator.

    I would have suggested you switch from on board sound or update your sound drivers but your on a console.

    Here’s the splitters, cables, and ground loop eliminator I use:

    Splitter - KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black)

    3.5 to 3.5 - KabelDirekt Pro Series 10 feet ...

    GL Eliminator - PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop...

    This setup works for me because I use a sound blaster AE5 and the headphone jack already has an amp in it.

    You might try something like this:

    Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier

    So hook up from headphone console output to 4 channel stereo amp input. Then. One out cable to headphone and the other cable to LINE IN on PC and then separate the audio from elgato in OBS

  • good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I’m not a super expert but was able to self resolve most of my audio issues. In my case the skipping was because my PC built in audio sucked and once I switched to a sound blast AE-5 my issues started to disappear. I know that’s not possible on console :/
u/GaussCaptain · 1 pointr/GalaxyS7

Before I found the UHQ Upscaler (which solved the problem for me) I ordered this [ground loop isolator] ( from amazon for about $10. It fixed all that background noise as well.

u/thayerpdx · 1 pointr/Justrolledintotheshop

Sometimes you can clean that up with a magnet around the aux plug, but your best bet is a ground loop isolator.

u/GloriousPudding · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Whine is caused by the unfiltered impulse charger .. You need something based on a voltage regulator, these are rare (usually cheap chinese chargers) but it's easy to build one yourself. Docking station won't solve your problems if it's still using impulse charger (most likely). Alternatively you could use DC/DC converter ie. AimTec AM3N-0505S

Edit: just found dedicated car ground loop isolators: worth a try if you don't mind this hanging from your AUX port ;)

u/sudo999 · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

Yeah, my transmitter will tune between stations, trouble is the radio won't. I live in a dense suburban area and the bands are crowded.

a tip to get rid of the whine or at least reduce it is to buy a ground loop isolator. they're about $10 (linked one is about $11, I linked it because it's the one I own, you might be able to find cheaper).

u/GPasswatch · 1 pointr/DadsGaming

Sorry, it's a ground loop isolator. It's actually a piece of hardware to minimize buzz, etc. It's actually primarily for radios, ipods, etc. You put it in the line for your headset, audio recording/capture device to minimize/remove unwanted buzz, etc.

Here's the one I got:

u/kryptoniterazor · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Sounds like a ground loop. Very common when you have 2 devices taking output from the same place and sending input to the same place. What happens is a literal loop is formed by the continuous circuit and acts as an antenna to pick up EM static. You may find that you can fix it by only using one input at a time or switching one of your devices to a different power supply (e.g. if you're using USB power on the Xenyx, try using a DC plug instead). Failing that, you can use a ground loop isolator to tamp down the noise.

u/advocat3 · 1 pointr/Miata
u/pnknp · 1 pointr/headphones

Something like this?


Would I plug this in before the Y-Adapter then the Y-adapter into the ports? Or would I plug this into one of the ends from the Y-Adapter?

Do you know why it's happening with my microphone? Is this a common issue with them?


u/gtbsbr · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ground loop.With so many variables its hard to pin down.Make sure all components have a common ground.Try a seperate circuit.Do you have a cable box plugged into same outlet as the laptop If you unplug cable from cablebox,if the noise disapears it is the cable box causing problem.One of these would eliminate the noise,but wont fix the underlying problem.

u/havetolovemusic · 1 pointr/Android

I've read some comments that there is often a 'humming' noise, and many people recommend getting a ground loop isolator. This may not be with this specific device either. Can you comment on this? Thanks!

u/shoWt1mE · 1 pointr/headphones

I might've already found one which I would've tried if it came to it.

Basically repeating this.

But please let me know if it works for you! :)

u/unamusedpenguin · 1 pointr/applehelp

Shit I forgot to give an update. Update: I ordered this one off of amazon and it works perfectly, I had my concerns because it was only 10 bucks, but it works. Crystal clear music. Now let's just see how far it's going to last.

u/TheStealth · 1 pointr/BMW

So I have been running into something similar with my E46. I found that when my iPhone isn't plugged in to power, it works fine. But when I have my phone plugged in it will work, then it will fail switching back to radio after sometime and act as if the AUX doesn't exist when trying to select the mode (just goes between Radio and CD).

I found this online, again, not your car but could be of assistance BMW CCA, basically what I believe I am experiencing is a Ground Loop fault. I will be ordering this part Ground Loop Noise Isolator once I finish testing with the phone plugged in and then unplugged replicating the issue to be sure. But after searching many different forums, finding the same symptoms pointing to this same issue, I am really thinking this is the issue I am having, I will test again with the device before installing it... I just don't know how I am going to hide that bulky thing in the dash.

I hope that helps! Post back with any findings!

u/APhamX · 1 pointr/audiophile

Well, that fixed it.. Although I don't want to run this giant extension cable, so maybe get something like this ?

u/backlumchaam · 1 pointr/headphones

To fix a ground loop, you can do it the hard way by actually fixing the ground (at the cigarette lighter socket most likely, but car audio guys might have better insight) or the easy way with a ground loop isolator.

Unfortunately, your issue sounds more severe. The ground loops in cars I've heard tend to be a high, mechanical sounding noise floor/hiss with maybe a high pitched whine. Not a whole channel cutting out.

In a car, I'd suspect corrosion on the aux cable connectors (anywhere between the radio and the device). I'd spray some Dexoit around, maybe change out the cable.

But I'm not a car audio guy, so you might find someone that knows the specific issues in that realm better.

u/Lurkingnerd · 1 pointr/headphones

as /u/pocketspoon has mentioned this subreddit is more headphone equipment.

However what you may want to look into a filter for your modmic. You could pick up something like an audio interface or a mixer to help assist with controlling gain and reducing electronic feed back but that can be fairly expensive.

I would a try a ground filter like this first.

u/maz-o · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Sounds like a grounding problem. It picks up noise from the car electronics.

Usually it happens when you plug in a charger to your phone/ipod at the same time as the AUX. Did you do that?

Try this cheap fix, "Ground Loop Isolator".

Goes between your aux input and your phone/ipod/etc.

u/jakgal04 · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

You can actually pick up a ground loop isolator and just tuck it away under the dash or something. I have one on my car and it works great. Heres one from Amazon for $9 with Prime.

u/C0mpass · 1 pointr/techsupport

More than likely you are having a ground loop problem. This happens a lot in car stereos also. A simple isolator would solve the problem. Due to your headphones not having a dedicated power supply there is no ground loop, while your speakers do have a dedicated power source, thus forming a ground loop.

I personally have this isolator in my car and it works great by removing all of the "static and hissing" noise.

u/Mixtapz · 1 pointr/Twitch

Same issue. Just bought 2 of these off Amazon.

One for my stream port one for my AUX port. Audio is crystal clear.

u/tehkhop · 1 pointr/headphones

Just bought one. Short answer: it works. Long answer: It works really well. I have my mic jack plugged directly into my computer and my headphone jack plugged into my DAC. No buzz. In-fact I'd say the audio is a tiny bit cleaner in general. Buy it:

u/_kemot · 1 pointr/techsupport

amazon? ebay?

link link

I'm not sure this will solve it 100% but it's worth a try. If not return it or go to a shop near you and ask for this and if its possible to test it out and return it.

u/mrbubbles916 · 1 pointr/flying
u/rextos · 1 pointr/audiophile

happy to say it fixed my issue :D thank you very much...though I am going to return this and buy one from amazon because this filter + 2 trs adapters cost 30 bucks (each adapter was 7$)

i can get this from amazon for 8 bucks and not even need any adapters cus it has 3.5mm female which i can put my dual 1/4 to 3.5mm in :)

should this also work?

u/Parax0 · 1 pointr/letsplay

That's what I'm asking here for :P I just bought this thing and it didn't help, so I'm a little hesitant to immediately spend money on another thing that might not work. That's why I want to hear what other peoples' experiences have been with 3DS recording.

edit: I'm gonna add some extra info to the OP.

u/dodoburd · 1 pointr/Android

Yeah it should.

One problem I have in my car is that if the phone is charging and playing music through the headphones at the same time, there is a little humming noise that increases with revs of the engine. If you get this issue, you'll need a Ground Loop Isolator.

u/harmburger · 1 pointr/Miata

There's a product called a ground loop isolator, I use it in my Miata(NC) that has a custom-made aux-in with the stock headunit. I didn't install it without using the ground loop isolator, but I head conflicting reports of some people getting it, some not. I purchased one and installed it at the same time. It's hidden in the dash, so it's still only a 3.5mm cable coming out of the glovebox. Works great, no interference issues. Here's the one I use:

u/physicalgoose · 1 pointr/synthesizers

Aww damn, I've also heard people have had a lot of success with these using the OP-1

They're small and don't require additional power but still kind of annoying to have to have an extra piece of equipment in the chain.

u/SherlockCmbs · 1 pointr/buildapc

There is an isolator cable you can buy on amazon. I just upgraded to a yeti though.

PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Works with iPod/Zune/iRiver and Others

u/t3abagger · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

Sure thing! It's a "ground loop noise isolator" and the price has dropped!

u/manderso7 · 1 pointr/prius

I got a Ground Loop Noise Isolator from Amazon and it does the trick.

u/Anarchaotic · 1 pointr/apple

Heads up I have this thing. You'll need a grounding cable like this -

Otherwise you're just going to hear a really annoying hissing noise. Also your sound quality is going to be a lot less dynamic than an aux cable. It's perfect for calls (volume needs to be turned up) but I never use it for listening to music.

u/LtRoyalShrimp · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

For anyone in the US - I have about 3 of these and work really well!

Amazon US -

u/djellicon · 1 pointr/OPZuser

To deal with the noise I use a ground loop isolator on both OP devices when recording to DAW, removes most of the noise, I bought this one (out of stock now) but I'm sure others will work just as well;


u/-RicFlair · 1 pointr/audiophile

It means you likely have multiple grounds in your system so you need to buy an isolator or two depending on your setup to remove all but one ground

I plug this into my computer to help my hum

u/deniroit · 1 pointr/audiophile

nope, that didnt help either :(. What do you think about an externally connected USB sound card ?. Would that canel the interference from the AC adapter?
Or how about a RCA filter ? like this one

u/DirkDiglier · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

Isolate the problem like Torturedpath suggest or circumvent. Here's a cheap-o DI box that will isolate your signal paths if the problem is in fact electrical and not mechanical.
e* - that particular model has RCA outputs, but you get the idea.

u/Rasalom · 1 pointr/techsupport

You said it in your original post: "you may lose a little freq range." Yes, I did notice this. The ground loop isolator "solves" signal distortions by simply cutting off the highs and lows of a signal. It muffles the sound so you won't hear the chittering electric signal, but you won't hear a true signal, either. Bad solution!

And dear god, don't go to Best Buy. Go buy one off Amazon so you can return it after puking at how tinny it makes music sound. Here are some more honest reviews of these products.

u/needs_help_badly · 1 pointr/ipod

It's from the grounding. Something like this in line from your iPod to headphones should get rid of that.

u/shadybill · 1 pointr/MINI

It's most likely a ground loop. One of these or similar should fix the issue.

u/jorji · 1 pointr/cars

It's fun as hell do drive, especially in town. I love that it was designed by engineers who were aware that horsepower is not a be all end all. I live in Pittsburgh and can accellerate onto the parkway and up hills as fast as my lead-foot desires, and it's really a joy to throw into a curve.

Before picking the two, I test drove a Fiesta, a Fit, a Soul, and an SX4. I'd have added the Chevy Cruze to the mix, but I wanted a hatchback and wasn't willing to wait for the 2012s to become available. The Fit and Soul were both roomy, but under-powered. The Fiesta had a numb shifter, the SX4 had a too-lightly sprung accelerator, and the Soul's shifter was placed so closely to the seat that I found myself banging my elbow against the seat every time I changed gears.

My only complaints with the Mazda2 are that the gap between 1st and 2nd gear is big, and it is less than desirable for tall people, which is actually not my problem: I'm 5'11, but most of that is leg, and the Mazda2 has great leg room for its size. Also, they managed to put speed-sensitive volume adjustment, 2 trip computers, a fuel economy computer, and an ambient temperature display in it, but no bluetooth. I ended up buying one of these.

u/syth9 · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals
u/BarkusSnarkus · 1 pointr/LGG3
u/cranktheguy · 1 pointr/Android

I actually have the receiver from the ajsnoopy's link, and it comes with a wall plug. This one is from the same brand and is made for cars (it plugs into cig power adapter and handles phone audio- unlike ajsnoopy's).

u/mrbrown2195 · 1 pointr/prius

Prior to a time when I replaced my head unit, I used a Belkin device that seems to meet most of the specifications you are seeking. Tracks are controlled by hitting the button a specific number of times (once to start and stop, twice to move forward, I don't remember for going back):

Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for All Versions of iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, iPod, iPod nano, iPod touch and Android Smartphones

u/oomatter · 1 pointr/GalaxyNexus

I've been using this

It works pretty well but I plan to get a nfc tag for my car mount to automatically turn on bt when it's mounted to streamline the process.

u/Axeavius · 1 pointr/htcone

My car is weird about bluetooth (it only does phone calls), so I've strongly considered getting that HTC Bluetooth Clip thingy. But, to be honest, I'd probably go with something like this Belkin Bluetooth Car Kit (currently $44.79 on Amazon). It hooks up to your aux input and you transmit your music to it via bluetooth. The only downside is that you wouldn't get track information like you would with connecting directly to your stereo via bluetooth.

On a side note, I do have the Belkin Bluetooth Music Receiver (currently $20.09 on Amazon). It's the same concept but for home use. I have it hooked up to one of the inputs on my receiver, and any of my bluetooth-enabled devices (HTC One, iPhone, MacBook Air) can connect to it. It's super convenient!

u/marcsupial · 1 pointr/iphone

I was in your same shoes about a year ago. The market for these devices has evolved considerably since then.

I personally own and use this one from Belkin:
Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version

Like I said, I purchased that a year ago tho.

Recently I purchased this one for a friend:
Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX

Its a little nicer in that it has navigation controls on top. The Belkin one requires multiple taps of a button for navigation and I have found it is hit or miss.

Here is one that is a little more discrete but doesn't have the USB port the others do that allow you to charge your phone:
Griffin Technology BlueTrip AUX for iPhone and Smartphones

Hope this helps!

u/jasopen · 1 pointr/iphone

Just an FYI, the 30 pin to lightning adapter from Apple actually contains a Digital to Analog converter chip, as analog audio is not available on the lightning port. That's one reason why it seems overpriced.

What I did was actually get one of these:

The audio goes Bluetooth to the device and the to the aux port of the radio. The main benefit is that for short trips I can play a song or two without even taking the phone out of my pocket.

u/Kralizec555 · 1 pointr/nexus4

As others have suggested, if it's a slightly older model it is possible that the built-in bluetooth will only support phone calls and not media. If that is the case, you will need to seek another route.

Just my two cents, if your car has an auxiliary audio in jack (looks like a headphone jack), then you can use a bluetooth adapter to wirelessly stream audio rather than plugging in every time. I use this model in my car and it works beautifully.

u/skagmire · 1 pointr/prius

I've got a 2008 Prius that I've added bluetooth with out replacing the stock stereo. I bought this Belkin hands free kit purchase link and I was able to attach the button portion to the center of my stereo below the CD slot and then route the cables to AC vent then down underneath the carpet and into the center console where there is a AUX port and a power adapter. I'm not sure if the AUX port is standard in that year range. The setup works really well for me, its as simple as double tapping the button after you start the car. You can also control the music a bit with the button itself. The audio quality is decent but a noise isolator is basically a requirement for using the AUX port in a Prius. It probably took me an hour or so and I only needed a screw driver. Only the part of the dash with the vent had to be removed and a little bit of fiddling with the center console (I put the cables under the carpet).

u/delorean623 · 1 pointr/S7Edge

Do you have it plugged in to a charger? My 08 Chevy 1500 would do what you're describing if I was charging the phone. I fixed it by getting this Bluetooth adapter

Edit: missed you saying it was while charging the first time around. It's not the phones fault, it's due to the way your car is wired.

u/hooch · 1 pointr/MINI

Same here, 08 Mini with no A2DP support. Buy one of these. Works flawlessly with my android and accomplishes the same thing as having A2DP support.

u/iSandwich · 1 pointr/gadgets
u/buffalobagpiper · 1 pointr/MotoX

Her car does not have bluetooth, however I got her this. I didn't realize it had that ability built right in thats awesome! She's not against using voice commands so hopefully I can teach her how to reply handsfree.

u/thebiglachovsky · 1 pointr/Android
u/azrael13666 · 1 pointr/Android

i bought this and it works great

u/rougetoxicity · 1 pointr/CarAV

Something like this 4Ga Would be more than enough. I bet you could get away with 8Ga too.

u/NishkaMishka · 1 pointr/CarAV

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

u/rdwtoker · 1 pointr/CarAV

Having your subs at one ohm is the preferred configuration for pushing your system to the limit. You don't want to change it. You will just need an amp that is one ohm stable.

As for an amp, if you want something cheaper than go for this Hifonics. If you are willing to drop some more coin then I suggest this rockford fosgate.

To wire the amp get this kit.

u/mikesmith0890 · 1 pointr/CarAV

speaker adapter rings $12 pair x2

speaker wiring adapters pair $6 x2

radio harness with amp bypass $35

JBL P660c 6.5" component set for font doors $130

rockford punch coaxial for rear fill $60

knu konceptz 4awg amp kit $35
usually i wouldn't recommend copper clad aluminum but in your case it'll be fine

dash kit $40

sony headunit $110
several options for this, but this is a decent unit.

precision power sub amp $110

soundqubed hds210 10" sub dual 4ohm $105

belva .77cuft sealed 10" prefab enclosure $37

I am over budget here, but this was quick and dirty. there are a couple areas to save money. biggest being buying a sub and amp use on craigslist. if that is possible and gets you under budget, id recommend just about everything else as is.

u/Dchandler50 · 1 pointr/CarAV

My vote for wires:

KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit

I've ordered this kit about 4 times and it's never failed to satisfy.

u/massacreman3000 · 1 pointr/CarAV

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.