Best car electronics speaker installation according to redditors

Nice! I just picked up an 06' Sedan 6 speed. These cars are pretty fucking quick haha.

Mine has 247k though. She is rust free and the previous owner took fantastic care of it.

You can swap the rear speakers for something a bit better and it takes 10 minutes. I threw in some Alpine Type S 6x9's and the system sounds fantastic. Literally all you need is the speakers and the below adapters. I love music, so this was the easiest way to add some clarity to the existing system.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEPJY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Build quality on this gen (7.5) is very hard to beat, Honda kinda of went cheap on the 8th and newer gens from what I gather. I am more than pleased with my 1/4 million mile baby.

Have fun!

for the rear I switched it out withthese.
for the front
and
these adapters are great if you don't want to slice the cables.

also. you will need a spacer for the Rockford.

I would recommend the Polk Audio over the Rockford.

Edit: and they work with the stock head unit without an Amp. I am an amateur so I didn't want to replace the stock radio/dash .
and too lazy to add an amp.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CSZAYF0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_qgaCCb792MQ21

$16.00 plus shipping
Your done ✅

What baffles?

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Door treatments will greatly improve the performance. Even if you do some CLD tiles and Foam rings.

You can get a 3.5m to dual rca male cable or 3.5mm to rca socket for easier splitting but need a rca male to male. Keep in mind to set your realtek driver to max power (differs for different drivers/software). Also a good motherboard is recommended like the modern alc1220 or even alc892-897). Ideally a high snr board (some low end boards are good like the msi tomahawk[except b450 ughh dont know why msi dumdbed it down:(] or mortar with high output for the codec they implemented by implementing good amps). You also need speaker wire or 2 premade speaker cable for sturdier and easier connection process

Then get [this harness] (http://www.uneeksupply.com/Pioneer-AVH-P2300DVD-Wire-Harness-Cord-Plug_p_21764.html) or if you have [prime] (http://www.amazon.com/Harness-speaker-Select-Pioneer-Stereo/dp/B005DV8R24)

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

reciever

and

speakers

wire

$470ish and an amazing deal on the ELACs right now.
to be honest you could cheap out and not get a receiver, but this would allow you to add a sub and 7.1 surround down the line for less than $500

Looks like a pretty straight forward swap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmJwXa9Bkgc

A quick google search and I found the adapters needed to it's plug and play, but do you own verification.
Speaker Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Mosuch-Plastic-Speaker-Adapter-Highlander/dp/B007ZQGZWO
Wire harness: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-8104-Speaker-Connector-Vehicles/dp/B0002BBP7Y

As for pro installers. I used to work for CarSpa like 15 years ago in Arlington. They were good back then, not sure about now. They used to do almost all the dealership installs around the area. The boss was a bit of a douche, Yelp agrees apparently.

You have to remove the panel to access the speaker no matter what. A Phillips screwdriver is all you need. Don't forget to buy the speaker mounting adapter and the wire harness adapter!

$300 Front

$0 rear- keep current pioneers

$235 Sub and box

$220 5 channel amp

$60 wire kit

$160 sound deadening


If you look around hard enough, you could save some money buying welding wire vs a amplifier kit, but probably not much after inline fuses and spade connectors and such.

Front components are a plus, yes.

Rear, leave alone unless there is something wrong with the ones you have

A million ways to go on amps, but I went for simplicity with a single amplifier doing everything. I would bridge channels 1-4 into your front components and run the rears off the deck.

Dayton UM is my fav metal sub of all time! Diggs really deep for a sealed sub, and never sounds sloppy.

Dynamat is a big yes, it's really the only way to get that tight mid-bass out of a leaky door "speaker box", floors cut road noise, rear deck can help out midbass for the rear. Trunk kills rattle, etc.

Hey, no problems. Those are what I purchased, yes. Along with this wiring adapter (which is easier than easy to install and should be included with the purchase on Crutchfield).

Speakers from Amazon

Wiring adapter from Amazon

It all comes out to about the same price (about $5 cheaper on Amazon), but Amazon's got Prime shipping, so that's why I'd recommend going there.

Also it's worth noting that I had to send them back in because one of the speakers started to crackle, so watch out for that within the first couple weeks. I'll be buying them again though soon, since they sounded pretty good for the price.

Hope this helps.

Just buy a wiring harness adapter and replace it with whatever tweeter you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-7800-Connector-Harnesses-Vehicles/dp/B0002BEPJY/ref=asc_df_B0002BEPJY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807586683&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=402812035962977768&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007783&hvtargid=pla-434101762016&psc=1

Yeah, sure. Here is some acoustic insulation and here is the cheapest sound deadener I can recommend. Apply the deadener to the metal and the noise barrier on top it, then secure down the top panel. How are you thinking of bolting it down?

For those who may be interested, this is the female part and this is the male part in the picture. The male part is called a banana plug, and I really like how this one holds the wire with set-screws. I don't know what the female part is generally called. This is installed in my 2015 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium.

Buy that with This if you want to be safe. If you don't use the brackets then return them.

Ok so I'm thinking of buying these [subs](Pair of SA-12 D4 REV.3- Sundown Audio 12" 750W Dual 4-Ohm SA Series Subwoofer SA12V3D4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BLQSK3G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RpATybP5JNV03) with this [enclosure](Q Power QBOMB12VL Dual 12-Inch SPL Vented Speaker Box with Durable Bed Liner Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NG38NZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5pATybTY3V2HT)

Does this look like a good setup and would it need an alternator or no?

(((post is also for Zack V, who is building a system right now in his truck)))

​

I want to focus mainly on the upper front speakers, let's say you've got 3.5's up in the dash.

But first lets get a recommendation out of the way for the 6x9's: Run them on an amp.

On the amp for the 6x9's, likely wire 4-channel amp mounted somewhere under the glovebox where it won't get kicked by someone's feet.

Then a set of speaker wires from the dash head unit and back up to the head unit to splice into the wiring harness adapter that was purchased for the head unit, this will feed the speakers their power instead of the head units own speaker output without having to run any new wiring to each speaker, which should be just fine if you are not going over 300 watts peak (or over 50 watts RMS per channel, 200 watts RMS total, or 450 watts max, peak is usually 50% over RMS, MAX is usually 200% to 250% over RMS).   So you can safely go up to a 450-watt amp easily as long as you're not running it at max full volume 100% all the time, which you won't because you'll go deaf in no time. Most newer vehicles stock wiring (although thinner) is of high enough quality to handle this with no problems (50-Watts RMS).

The amp will have to have a "high-level input" for this to work (just don't use the RCA connectors for this task unless the stock radio has the low output option for them, which isn't likely). You will likely only find the less expensive amplifiers with this option, as most setups replace the head unit first (aftermarket head units provide the low level RCA outputs designed for use with amplifiers).

As for the 3 1/2 speakers in the dash, this is going to be the hardest thing to understand but they are actually full range and set the "sound stage" for the vocal part of the music.  Putting in tweeters only (without full or mid-range) will kill your sound stage entirely and make your vocals sound very flat, especially if your 6x9's are lower in the doors by the feet.

Most importantly is to match them to the head unit, meaning you want to get the highest clean volume with the minimum wattage, for example: (and I just researched this) the best pair on the market without an amp will be something like the Infinity Reference 3022cfx 3.5" and here's why:  you get 91db of "pure, clean sound" (due to low end Bass Blocker built in so you don't blow out such a small speaker) but all that sound comes from only 25-watts of power!  (Can handle up to 75 peak if the head unit puts that much out or you want to add a second 2-channel amp) but that combined with a very high signal to noise ratio will give plenty of volume without needing an amp, and this is one of the only component speakers of this size that comes in a 3-ohm configuration which will give it some added oomf due to higher power draw at lower volumes (meant to compensate for the other speakers running on an amp). If you check out all the other offerings on the market, you'll see a lower sensitivity, higher RMS power requirement, narrower frequency range, much higher price, and in some cases ALL of these factors at once!

Others like the JL Audio C2-350x, JBL GTO329, and Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 all have very limiting factors such as high power requirements, needing a second 2-channel amp, or low signal to noise ratio, needing a second amp, or specifically the JL's may sound flat due to a limited higher frequency range (like tweeters only),  the JBL's will be drowned out by the sheer volume of the 6x9's with the 3.5" JBL's having such a high RMS power requirement they will literally sound "quiet" compared to the 6x9's without their own amp, and the Rockford Fosgate 3.5's have both a lower sensitivity and flatter frequency response. I know it's only a few hertz (85 to 120) but that to me makes all the difference on the vocal sound stage when there's a low male voice singing such as Eddie Vedder, Johnny Cash, Jim Morrison, etc... (at least to me I hear a difference, it could be psychological but that's a whole other category of postings).

Keep in mind you can spend OVER $1000 (without buying an amp) on 3 & 1/2 inch speakers & Signal Processor & Shipping chasing top quality, but this isn't the goal here today, for right now you want your price range of the whole speaker system around $500.

Of course if you're only streaming Pandora or Spotify don't bother for highest quality as the high ranges all get garbled to audio compression so there's no point, just go with whatever cheapest speakers won't give distortion at moderately high volumes.

Don't forget the wiring adapters! This was my favorite part for not having to cut the factory speaker connectors and they're usually under $3 each Example: Speaker Harness for $5.62 / pair.

I hope this helps you make a decision. Personally I like the vocals in music the most so I may sound a little passionate on the topic of setting the sound stage.

i got my wire and plugs from amazon and they work great.

wire
https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-100ft-Speaker-Touch/dp/B01CSZAYF0

plugs
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant-Gold-Plated/dp/B00JFC9BJU

got all of my subwoofer cables from Amazon as well. cheap and easy. Cable Matters and Amazon basics brand sub cables.

other than that, R/L/C should be a simple straight forward process. have all of your sources going into your receiver and HDMI out from your receiver to your TV.

This is my box. It's tuned to 35Hz with 2.25ft3 each side.

Eleac cinema 5 speaker package originally retailed for 400.00 now sells for $199

https://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/onktxsr383/onkyo-tx-sr383-7.2-ch-x-80-watts-bluetooth-a/v-receiver/1.html

https://www.amazon.com/Impact-Mounts-Universal-Surround-Satellite/dp/B07RLY5TV5

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Gauge-100ft-Speaker-Touch/dp/B01CSZAYF0

So all the speakers in the Ranger are easy. Youtube has DIY for everything. The size is 5x8 all around for the ex cab and a total of 4 speakers. I suggest getting the Ford harness I link and soldering the connection to the speakers and then plugging them in to keep a stock look and the solder will help with the door speakers and the door being opened and closed. There is not much wire to work with door side so keep the stock plugs if you can. https://www.amazon.com/Custom-Install-Parts-Aftermarket-1999-2010/dp/B008CPUGMW/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=Ford+speaker+plug&qid=1555364754&s=gateway&sr=8-18

I don't know too much about wires, but I bought this and I think it's of excellent quality. Nice and thick. Has a heavy feel to it yet very flexible. Plus, I don't know about that tool. I used the Klein stripper and it's very nice. That doesn't seem like the best tool imo, but I'm no an expert.

I got this wire, should I trash it and buy some 12 guage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSZUSLA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A cheap way to get results is the look into improving the sound from your speakers.

You can add F.a.s.t rings on your speakers and/or add sound deadening mat in your door.

These should really improve the mid bass from your speakers for 30-100$.


F.a.s.t rings : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MM4DJV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WOwZDb4JT6K0D

You mean like this?

I usually use the wire that comes with the battery pack --- if I need more or longer runs... I have a spool of this

Also if you don't want to splice the cable harness, this works as a plug and play harness

This is my build which I posted on Facebook a few days ago, before I add subwoofer, so far less than $500, I'm still building it ..

--

Tonight's window-shopping shopping cart for my first audio upgrade from 2016 WRX base OEM audio. Includes amp, speakers, and noise suppression. This seems like a really good starter build for less than $500. Looking for feedback.

DS18 SLC1800.4 DS18 Select SLC-1800.4 1,800 Watts Four (4) Channels Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDI0D3K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IDI0D3K&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=TLRSTER62FWVZ4YI

• affordable clean wattage
  
• 80 watts per channel matches customer recommendations for the Alpine speakers
  
  Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0059AK2T0&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=PXNDF7S6RPBZPEKP
  
  Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012BYOSK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012BYOSK&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=2GAGDGGKMRWMHURO
  
  Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=as_li_tl…
  
  50 Sq Ft Noico Self-adhesive Foil & Butyl Mat 50 Mil Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URR4O5I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00URR4O5I&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=Q7FJEOPI6QOBHJKL
  
  Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B015WJH4ZW&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=WNEQ67NXUPTXMY4T
  
  BAFX Products® - Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader - W/ Battery
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCZWWI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ECCZWWI&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=UV3UKNSI24GV7E3Q
  
  
• to measure the noise levels before and after installing the Noico mat
  
  Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for iPhone, iPad Tablet and Android
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ADR2B84&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=XCRDPQNFVK6NFAAN
  
  
• to calibrate the HU EQ after the amp and speakers are installed

speaker adapter rings $12 pair x2

speaker wiring adapters pair $6 x2

radio harness with amp bypass $35

JBL P660c 6.5" component set for font doors $130

rockford punch coaxial for rear fill $60

knu konceptz 4awg amp kit $35
usually i wouldn't recommend copper clad aluminum but in your case it'll be fine

dash kit $40

sony headunit $110
several options for this, but this is a decent unit.

precision power sub amp $110

soundqubed hds210 10" sub dual 4ohm $105

belva .77cuft sealed 10" prefab enclosure $37

I am over budget here, but this was quick and dirty. there are a couple areas to save money. biggest being buying a sub and amp use on craigslist. if that is possible and gets you under budget, id recommend just about everything else as is.

Here you go

You just need 4 new speakers.

If you intend to use the factory radio, or even just a cheap upgraded headhunt for smartphone connectivity at any point in the future, these JVC speakers will easily fit the bill, $27 for the pair and can handle a little bit more wattage than the factory radio. For ease of connectivity get yourself two sets of these speaker adapters too, cheap and keeps you from having to cut and crimp any wires in the doors.

If you want to modernize your truck a bit, Boss sells a decent bluetooth and USB enabled head unit that will let you connect your smart phone like any modern car, it won't tell you much on the head unit's screen but it will give you a more powerful amplifier than the Ford factory unit for all of $24.

If you end up doing an upgraded head unit, get yourself a wiring harness adapter, unless you are color blind any body can easily install a new radio with one of these and no hacking/cutting required.

Obligatory required Ford radio removal tool

This worked for my 2001

Metra 72-6514 Speaker Harness for Select Chrysler/Dodge Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WTEVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VKfGDbM0283Z5

Alternatively you could try these which you don't have to worry about water https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Plastic-Adapter-Spacer-Speakers/dp/B00CROVY02

1. You'll need more than 5' of wire as you'll have to get some for both side and 5' is really not that much even if that it comes in a pair. Get something like this speaker wire spool $10
   
2. I think you're fine with that amp as long as you're using analog sources. If not you'll need to add in a DAC. What are you sources going to be? I also like an amp with some tone controls.

Those are pretty cool, but fairly expensive. For seated experiences, a decent bass shaker and amp can be installed into most chairs for around $100.

This is everything I bought for my setup, and it's great for Driveclub, Eve, and Rigs:


Lepai LP-168HA 2.1 2 x 40-Watt Amplifier and 1x68W Sub Output https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0070Z87YO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p2hvyb1DQKT6T

AuraSound AST-2B-4 Pro Bass Shaker Tactile Transducer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ZPTBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2hvybK1X2MTF

Pyle PSC1250 12-Gauge, 50 feet Spool of High Quality Speaker Zip Wire https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZX8N44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G3hvyb889SGZP

Belkin Speaker and Headphone Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067RC4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b4hvybN63W7CQ

StarTech.com MU15MMS 15 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G3WCNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z4hvyb7PS049X

The cheapest way to go would be to run this cable from the headphone jack on your PC to this amp. From there, run this wire to this subwoofer. Then use more speaker wire to connect the Hi-Level Output on the subwoofer to these bookshelves.

It will sound pretty good, and fit your budget pretty much exactly. It's stereo, but I don't know of a good 5.1 setup that would fit your budget.

Be warned: you WILL eventually want to upgrade every piece of this. But for your budget, for right now, this will sound good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005AJUFWY?cache=b975d913375b42a4c3bb8a98a5e482df&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1406608708&sr=8-8#ref=mp_s_a_1_8

I think mine looks like the bottom one (new one)

I just purchased this as a backup

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DV8R24/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1

amp

Amp has been working with the sub, it powers the sub just fine.

I have tested the speaker directly to the door harness it still sounds low in volume and small buzzing sound.

Crossover does not tough the amp, its connected by this harness

I think it power the sub okay have no idea how to test it.

Speaker channel 1/2 sub bridged 3/4

Front speaker works quite tweeter just buzz

Both speaker and tweeter work fine when radio powers it.

Two pairs one for each channel from amp. To front L/R and SW

> a carpet that's supposed to fit the entire floor space

I haven't used anything like that before. Maybe someone on here knows. Check out this site. Their method is sort of the best case scenario for deadening, but I think if you went with just some of this, you'd still block a tremendous amount of road noise. And if installed around and behind those front speakers, they should play louder and cleaner.

Check out 4 inch components for your fronts. You'd have to find a spot for the tweeters (as they're separate) but even the cheapest components usually sound much better than coaxial speakers.