Best car engine cooling & climate parts according to redditors

It's called an accumulator tank, here is an example for an RV. https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B000N9VF6Q

Cheapest best: Spectra CU1193 (Autozone A1193)

Best: Mopar 52080104AC

Do not listen to ebay 3-row all-aluminum marketing wank. The Mopar is the best design.

The radiator / transmission cooler on these rust internally, mixing the fluids into a transmission destroying “pink milkshake”.

I’d recommend using this external transmission cooler and block off the old transmission cooler fittings to avoid losing your coolant if / when the radiator rusts out.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL10680-Radiator-Fin-Comb/dp/B006K8GKBO

They also have hideaway plates that attach to the underside of your front end. I forget the prices, like $50 for the regular option. $150-ish for the motorized, remote controlled mount.

http://www.hidetheplates.com

You can also get four pack of tiny suction cups for $4 to attach the plate to the inside of your windshield. Just make sure it's not obscured or tucked into anything, must be readily and easily visible. I always kept mine just high enough so that it appeared directly above my resting wiper blade.

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA

Then I just stopped rocking a front plate all together. No problems in two years. <3 you Texas.

Beautiful car, and great photos!

Clear side markers are available here, and install in minutes.

Also, if you need to temporarily attach a front license plate when parking (e.g. street parking in VA cities), these work well.

Enjoy your new ride, and I hope the break-in period goes quickly!

You oil and beat to get your motor off? Ok that did not sound right lol but anyways, I would suggest that you invest in a wheel puller.

https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Wheel-Puller-Original-Version/dp/B001CGFQDW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1PF6TH183QH2Z&keywords=hvac+wheel+puller&qid=1565732781&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+wheel%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-3

I use one all the time and I never have any troubles. It is like God blesses me every time I have to pull a motor off.

Stock replacement recommended by others on this sub:

https://www.amazon.com/TYC-2268-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPQPC/

Almost all the well known Miata performance places offer upgrades. The very short answer is if you're car isn't overheating then the one above is fine.

Flyin Miata is well-regarded for all the things.

I like Gates for both belt and pump, personally. Amazon sells that brand. Get the belt in a kit that includes the replacement pulleys, gasket, etc. The Gates pump has a cast impeller rather than spot-welded, which some think is the better way to go for a water pump.

BTW, here's a worklist you can use for this job: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1eEStLWP0Vp9YlvqrPNLA67S31Iz0FZd0Q-2waNV_UFg/edit#gid=0 (if you have updates on any of it, let me know!)

I'm not Big Al, but here's my two cents.

• Every team should have a Battery Beak. I think the first one any of my teams bought was in 2815 in 2013, then I showed it to 1293 who historically stayed past the peak of the adoption curve for financial reasons. They went out and bought one, it's that good at preventing bad batteries from going out and that easy to use.
  
• Inspect your battery. Dents? It's shot. Inside these batteries are glass plates that divide each cell. When the glass breaks, it loses voltage. When the glass breaks only a little, it will lose voltage when it heats up (say, when a robot is drawing 100A from it). Which means it fails on the field.
  
• Did you ever see someone lift it by the cables? It's shot. There's no strain relief on those metal tabs, just a straight connection to those glass plates.
  
• For deeper testing, lots of people like the CBA IV for load testing batteries down to a certain voltage since it'll keep a constant load. You could do a poor-man's version with a car heater or two and watching the driver station logs. (200W is 16A, or about six CIMs spinning at free speed with nothing attached. You want a good solid discharge for this, so the battery chemistry will warm up. Two heaters would absolutely do the trick.) Any sudden voltage drops indicate bad cells, and it should be recycled.
  
• For most teams, you're only going to get 1-2 good seasons out of a battery before it needs to be demoted to practice and demo duty. Be sure to mark when a battery first goes into service.

we use this one to pump from my dads rv to my septic tank in the summer :http://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000-Waste-Water-Pump/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=pd_sbs_auto_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HXR7XPZC8NYFC23N5W4

150' of 1" line, 6 foot rise give or take. takes about 10 min to drain and flush his tanks.

Mine is currently broken at 13k miles. Since I've still got warranty I'll get it replaced by the dealer, but I've been looking around for a better replacement since I'm sure it'll go out again. This Dorman one was mentioned in another thread, can anyone confirm whether its sturdier or not?
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

Since it's not leaking, and there's no overheating problem, no. If you don't like the way it looks, buy a set of radiator fin combs and straighten them out. https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL10680-Radiator-Fin-Comb/dp/B006K8GKBO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1494344226&sr=8-7&keywords=Radiator+tool

Check out Kat's. They sell several different types of oil and block heaters, including a magnetic one that you just pop onto your oil pan. I've read about people using them on air-cooled cars with good results. Kudos to you for driving a Ghia through the winter!

Edit: They also have glue-on pads like this, which are basically the same type of heaters we use on the aircraft engines I build.

B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIGE9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jIA2DbDHCNM3R

That looks to be the exact one I have, its uses 3/8 barb fittings for the feed and return hoses which is what Lexus uses so it works perfect. It comes with 3/8 hosing as well but I got some extra just in case but I don't believe you have too as what they give you should be enough. I don't have any pictures but I used the brackets that come with it and just some basic nuts/bolts/washers to kinda secure it in place along with some zip ties. I have it mounted off to the lower passenger side in front of the radiator with the fittings facing towards the passenger side. I run the hoses up through a hole between the frame and the bottom passenger side of the radiator and then wrapped some fabric around the hoses so they dont rub against the frame where they pass through that hole. I can walk you through the install if you want. It really wasn't hard. The hard lines for the feed and return are just behind the radiator so that made it SUPER easy to just run the hoses up through the hole and to the cooler. Just make sure you have the return hose fitted to the bottom fitting of the cooler so gravity helps insure you always have oil returning. You can get a bigger cooler too if you want but having a 3/8 barbed fitting on the cooler makes the install painless. My set up isnt pretty, I'm sure you could make it look good if you tried but I care how it works more than how looks.

I actually just saw this one today. Since your in oregon I would say the one plus is that he replaced the top. Another is the reasonably low miles. As for the negatives as stated before the radiator will need to be replaced very soon as it is very brown. You can get this one as it a OEM replacement but for very cheap. It is koyo brand so it is a reputable brand and you get it for 90.00 shipped. While doing that I would suggest doing the main coolant hoses as well which will be around another 100.00. I would suggest taking the stock rims and using that money towards a good set of wheels that arent 17s. With that you would be at 3000 with around 200.00 of parts to replace right away so I would ask 2700 once you take the car for a spin and go up from there because you can negotiate knowing there are things needing to replaced already. Unless there are any other noticeable things that you see wrong with it once you take a test drive 2700-2800 would be a fair price in my eyes. Also be sure he has replaced the timing belt and water pump as this is the mileage where it should have been done pretty recently.

When they get brown and get kind of a spider webby look to them, they plastic is decaying and becoming brittle. It will crack any time, probably while you're out on a long drive and get the car really warmed up.

New OEM Koyo (Koyo made the factory radiator and are also a good aftermarket manufacturer) are only about $100 currently $75 from Amazon. Super simple DIY repair.

http://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427331153&sr=8-1&keywords=koyo+miata+radiator

It says TYC but many many Miata owners have ordered that one and it comes in a Koyo box, has Koyo marking on the part, and is exactly like the OEM radiator in every way... except not brown...

Awesome!

As a pro-tip, some people complain that the lowest setting on the HMW is still too intense for them. There are two common methods of dealing with this.

The first is simply to drape a washcloth over your clitoris to act as a mechanical damper. You'd likely want to use something soft, fairly thick, and I'd recommend wetting it with warm water, which will both make it a more efficient mechanical damper and serve to relax the muscles surrounding your pubic area.

The second is to use a voltage controller, commonly a fan-speed controller like this one, to vary the voltage reaching the HMW. While some users have advocated this method, I've looked into the theory along with other users, and it was inconclusive whether the motor used in the HMW can be safely or effectively regulated through voltage modulation. Be aware that if you attempt this, you definitely run the risk of potentially burning out the motor of your HMW, and if left unattended, it could even potentially cause a fire.

If you want to be particularly adventuresome, there are also a number of aftermarket (third-party) heads that are sold as attachments for the HMW. Certainly worth looking into if you think you might be the kind of girl that prefers vaginal stimulation to clitoral stimulation.

Best of luck to you!

Ninja-Edit: Definitely thought I was posting this to /r/sex based on the subject matter. If you have any questions, success stories, etc., I would highly recommend posting them over there. It's an absolutely amazing, knowledgeable, supportive, and accepting community where you can seek advice or merely share in the knowledge that there are lots of people in the same boat as you. Following that sub changed my sex life, and arguably my life as a whole.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPQPC?cache=4c29131d98b0cef7c9aae9d1357a4a81&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412786867&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 This one is a koyo. Make sure you get it from Amazon though.

Lol supercharged 4.0 with stock Cherokee radiator

I don’t own this beautiful car yet, but from what I gathered they are using this they suctioned it to the windshield, don’t think it would scratch anything.

They make [suction cups for the front window] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UkqGAbB4P6RE4), if that's your worry.

Its not too bad at all, don't forget to move over the vibration isolators to the new radiator. My Cheap radiator recommendation I used it and so does tons of others no issues no overheating at all.

http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I've ragged out that one. Now I use--- https://www.amazon.com/Sensible-Products-Ultimate-Blower-Puller/dp/B001CGFQDW

I've been sent back on too many other tech call backs because they shook the blower wheel off the shaft and ruined its balance.

I've used a super ambi lowel kit for years (as a mobile shooter) and they are great lights, if you know how to use them. I shot 4 spots for a major tech company last week and used my 6 light kit to great effect. You can get some gel frames for these lights and use basic diffusion instead of the umbrellas. Grab a couple of these and use them as dimmers: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394512495&sr=8-2&keywords=router+control

I've never seen the SewerSolution until now, but it looks to me like it serves a bit of a different purpose then the Flush King. It looks like the SewerSolution is meant to run a little longer distance (like using it at home where you can't get your RV close enough to and outside inlet to your sewer).

Just looking at it, I'd be a little leery. I can see that there's a jet that blasts a stream going out the hose, but if you get enough TP or other solids in that little hose, is that jet going to be enough to push it though? If it does happen to get jammed, you're in for a bit of a mess when you close your black water tank and disconnect this hose. Remember, the shut off for the black water tank is generally located right up at the tank, there is going to be 4 to 5 feet of PVC full of stuff between the shut off and the disconnect, and it's all going to come out. If you want to go this route, take a look at the flojet, I have a friend who has one, and they are happy with it. It's obviously more money, but it actually grinds up the solids and actually pumps stuff out the hose.

http://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000-Waste-Water-Pump/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1397960442&sr=1-2&keywords=flojet


The flush king is more for keeping your tanks clean and free of dried up solids. You hook it up to the outlet on the RV, then hook the slinky hose up to the flush king. First you drain your tank as normal, then you use close the flush king and turn on the hose, this pushes water back up into your tanks to create a rinse. then you open again and let everything drain back out. Repeat as necessary. As time permits, I'll sometimes do it 3 to 4 times during a dumping.

http://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G

Hundred bucks for the cooler, hose, and clamps. Really wondering where in the hell that extra tree fiddy came from.

I usually keep water in my tank over the summer. I'll drain and refill before trips. I like to travel with some water in the fresh tank, even if I'm camping at a cg with water hookup in case I need to use the sink en route or at the cg before I hook up the city water.

I'll usually leave a little water in the black tank between trips. If it's completely dry, whatever is left in the tank will dry to sides of the tank and become like poo concrete.

I have a poop cannon (flojet waste pump) so I can dump at home. Between trips after I dump, I will fill the back tank, let it sit for a couple days and dump again.

Flojet 18555000A 18555-000A Portable RV Waste Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HKZHIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Q3BnDb39C6ZVZ

well, if you have a traditional vent, there is the fan insert that is about $45 on Amazon. A PWM speed controller is about $8. Comes w reverse.

will look up the parts.

as far as 'rain proof', install a vent cover.

The Fantastic series has a rain sensor model that will close the vent. About $300+

https://www.amazon.com/Hengs-90043-CR-Replacement-Vortex-Fan/dp/B002N1J5IM

https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible-reversing/dp/B01H1W79S0

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-40421-RV-Aero-flo-Roof-Vent-Cover-White/29764356

so, $45+8+22, or $300+

I forgot to link you the part.
https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Control-Solenoid-Volkswagen-1K0820803E/dp/B073WP1QC1

Get a hide away plate frame that attaches to your under belly

http://www.pfyc.com/GN1046.html

or these little suction cups (this is what I use) to attach the plate to the inside of you windshield.

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA

I bought and modified one of these 50 gallon water tanks that sits in the back of our truck. With a macerator I am able to pump out our tanks in a more or less liquid solution and fill up the tank. Yes, 50 gallons x 8 pounds per gallon is a lot of weight, but not to an unloaded truck. Then we go to the dump station and hook up the standard stinky slinky hose and pull the [valve] (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T40-Spigot-Valve-Assembly/dp/B00594AZRU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487151353&sr=8-12&keywords=valterra+waste+valve) open. After emptying the tank rinse it out and occasionally put some soap in it to keep it somewhat clean. It works.
EDIT: Early morning cannot type....

Putting in an accumulator in the system is probably necessary, it keeps the pump from cycling on and off incessantly.

https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-182-200-Pre-Pressurized-Accumulator-Tank/dp/B000N9VF6Q for example.

They make oil block heaters that are big stickers that attach to the oil pan with a plug that you can run out the front of the vehicle so you can plug it in. A friend of mine did that with his and had no issues. He may have attached an additional one to his transmission pan as well. I would suggest looking on Amazon, but it may be better to look locally with Amazon shipping being what it is to Alaska. Here is an example for what I was talking about, it looks like they have some that screw into the block somewhere so that may be an option as well.

No that's the problem, once the lunge starts it can't be fixed without rebuild (and still then it can come back)

The best things to do it change the trans fluid and filter. I've done mine every 50k since 80,000 and it's worked out pretty good, just did it at 230k and it was nice and pink (small amount of metal shavings on the magnet attached to the pan but nothing abnormal).

I've never power flushed it because everyone I've ever talked to says against it, but I did add a transmission fluid cooler to keep the fluid temp down. The #1 killer of auto trans are heat and overheating. I installed it though the rubber lines the lead to the radiator and it's worked out good as well. At the point your at its all about keeping it healthy and operating

Get a radiator fin comb, take your time and get them straightened out.

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062

I have 1600W in an 8x4 tent cooled with a single 440 CFM inline fan - so yes, it should be quite sufficient for a single 600W. You may want to also get the suggested router speed controller, since 440 CFM may be overkill on full power.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/

They sell the same controller at Harbor Freight for $20.

Specifically this one - B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIIDZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WUCkybESWYETA

I run my 430cfm for my 4x4 tent at the high/medium line using a speedster stepless controller

I have read into them a bit. I think a gallon of diesel lasts about 8 hours. all exhaust is routed outside of the cabin (obviously) but the unit goes inside so you would need to cut holes in the camper.

https://www.amazon.com/Caravan-Motor-Homes-Thermostat-Monitor-Silencer/dp/B07JB7QZWZ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=diesel+heater&qid=1555515826&s=gateway&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPNC8?pc_redir=1407139270&robot_redir=1#

I know it's not all aluminum, but what do you think?

So here's the deal. The 2003 Accord is known for its rather weak automatic transmission. From what I've heard, it has a lot to do with heat buildup. My girlfriend's car has 210,000 miles and most likely needs to push another 50,000. The transmission shifts fine and I want to keep it that way. So, I added another larger oil cooler to the system, along with a spin-on filter to hopefully catch some particulates. I know the transmission has a filter, but they say its not serviceable and I feel like the extra surface area of the larger filter could help with cooling as well. I decided to put the oil filter between the two coolers so that the filter could catch the crap that may be stuck up in the existing cooler.

Hopefully this spurs an idea in someone else's head, it really wasn't all the difficult and (i hope) will save me thousands in the long run

SUPPLIES:

Spin-on filter and mount

Extra hose

Aftermarket cooler kit

Genuine Honda ATF

Extra spin on nice filter

I did the same a long time ago, got some hate on the cherokeeforum from some crusty ole bastards for making it potentially "too cold". Pshhhhhh.

Afaic, it's a must do mod. It takes away heat from the main radiator, and it eliminates the terrible barb fittings that always leak (I just hose clamped the things). I got mine for $65 on amazon a long time ago - not really sure why the price jumped so much since, but I'm sure there's similar ones for cheaper.

I run a Flojet to an accumulator to supply water to my Profitec 700 during coffee popups. Total cost for those two was $160. Add in a few more bucks for the hoses and connectors. The accumulator supplies a steady 30psi ~2bar of line pressure.

Flojet, Accumulator

As someone who lived in Ohio for a few years and doesn't like that ugly license plate on the front of the car, try some of these. I got the OK from a cop for having my front plate mounted visibly at the top of my windshield, but I was up in Chardon so who knows. Great looking car!

Ed: had a few guys chime in to say they've been pulled over for having the front plate in the windshield. Best solution I have is to move to a state that respects cars.

Voltage controller

No affiliate or anything here's there heater: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JB7QZWZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The most complicated part was cutting the hole and routing the exhaust. Ya gotta be really careful with the exhaust in that it can't be any longer than what comes with it.. unless you want to swap to a larger diameter pipe. Those things are pretty sensitive to back pressure.

I just replaced mine this fall with this one of amazon and it's worked great so far. Fit right in no hassles at all. Engine temp stays a solid 5-10 degrees cooler now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S062/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks good. I ordered the same, went for the Phidget and a controller.

Only thing I wish I had done was loctite all the screws the FIRST time I did them instead of adding loctite piecemeal now.

My old-battery car takes some finger-crossing to start at -10, and is practically un-startable at -20... unless I have had my oil pan heater on for about 2 to 4 hours. Otherwise, the oil's just too thick to let the engine turn over effectively.

Hmm. Amazon is telling me those won't fit my car. Which model did you get?

This: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-2268-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPQPC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-2&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

or this?: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-1&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

Amazon says these are built for the automatic gearbox models.

Get one of these - they are cheap and totally worth it.

I had a TD-100 (100 CFM) that wasn't powerful enough to really pull through my 200 CFM-rated Phresh carbon can.

Also, the TD-100, even on high setting, would barely turn on unless the fan speed controller was dialed almost to maximum speed.

I replaced the TD-100 with a TD-150 (300 CFM, 6", big brother). That thing works GREAT with the speed control.

I suspect your TD-125 will be fine with the speed control, esp. if you rewire it to the faster setting internally.

Worth the $20 or so, hands down.

Any idea what the difference between that and this other TYC radiator is? They've got different part numbers and about $20 difference, but comments seem to indicate they both fit the same cars (they're almost all for NB, but one guy says it fit in a 1996 M - are the radiators interchangeable or not?).

Buy this, and you’ll likely be golden. These fail every few years on these cars. AC Compressor Control Solenoid Valve Fits Volkswagen Jetta Sanden PXE16 PXE14 1K0820803E - VW GTI, Golf, Passat, Tiguan, Jetta TDI and more - Audi A3 - Control Valve, Compressor Pressure Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073WP1QC1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_8wvhDbKJ72FVK

Odd, I just looked back to my orders the WP was $28 when I ordered, another $40 or so for the TB+pullied and the gaskets for the camshafts and crankshaft were probably $30 tops all together. [Here's my wp. ](Gates 42134 Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2W91E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sXKXAb7NFEBRH) and [TB](Gates TCK179 Timing Belt Component Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2YDNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6YKXAbCPXBPEQ)

Blend door actuator. Get it replaced under warranty and do it again later or buy the Dorman unit. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

I don't think your needs are great. I would generally look for a laptop with the following specs:

- Quad core 8th gen "U" model CPU like the Core i5-8250u. Less powerful than the "H" model CPUs like the i5-8300h or i5-9300h, which can sustain higher clock speeds, but generate more heat and consume more power. These "H" CPUs are generally not used in thin & light laptops, with the exception of some thin and light gaming laptops

- 16GB of RAM. Probably a bit overkill, but lots of Chrome tabs can eat a lot of RAM.

- A SSD of any size you wish to have. I generally recommend at least 256GB.

- With regards to being able withstand "baking in a car"; I generally recommend a laptop that has passed the Dept of Defense's MIL-Spec requirements for electronics operating under harsh environments. Dell Latitudes and Lenovo ThinkPad T and X series would be at the forefront with ThinkPads ahead of Latitudes. If you plan on leaving the laptop in the car for an extend period of time when you are not driving, then I recommend you purchase a car window ventilator so that hot air does not build up in the car. An example is linked below. The laptop would need to be in the passenger cabin for this to work;, not the trunk or glove compartment. Stow the laptop under the driver or front passenger seat to keep it out of sight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9F38P5/ref=psdc_15725361_t1_B07BPV59BP

I bought suction cups for my license plate so it's suctioned to my front windshield. I got rear ended not too long ago and it didn't move at all. Just my $0.02

Edit: These. They cost $2 and they work really good.

https://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1/138-0897253-5765706?ie=UTF8&qid=1495958756&sr=8-1&keywords=suction+cup+for+license+plate

You can use a macerator pump connected to the dump valve

https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-18555-000A-Portable-Macerator-Carrying/dp/B001HKZHIW

Then just pump it into a 55 gallon drum or something in your vehicle and then go dump it somewhere where you can dump into the sewer.

With 3 people using the toilet, expect to need it pumped out every week to 10 days. Average size is 30 gallons for each black and grey tank.

The grey water will fill up even faster, with dishes, showers, etc.

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV5PLFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

and this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

in the corner of my windshield. Might be an alternative for you.

I'm in California by the way.

I added Sumosprings to mine combined with a 6k wdh.
Mine has factory tow package.
Avg 10-12 mpg on hilly terrain.
Under 65 mph hwy.

Here is fan
Heng's 90043-CR Replacement Vortex I Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N1J5IM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_G8q0BbHRYQ15J
The frequently bought together link shows PWM speed control. Read fan reviews for how to.

Fridge fan was an ebay kit I found for $20ish.
12v computer fan and wiring with switch.
Mounted fan with zip ties on inside of top vent to pull hot air out.

Had room for 2nd battery alongside first on tongue. Bought battery from Costco, cables and battery box on Amazon.

Starcraft screen is a roll up style that retracts.
Keeps bugs out, more natural light and nice cross breeze.

Have considered ramp door as a potential deck, but with little ones and no railings like bigger models I passed.

Yours have roof or side A/C?
If roof, then the odd counter space above fridge makes a great place for a 3 drawer Sterlite plastic shelf. We put one up there when onsite.
Without much storage it helps for longer getaways.

Enjoy!

At some point in life, you'll eventually learn that cutting corners costs more in the long run. Buy quality gear so it won't have to be replaced again.

https://www.amazon.com/Shurflo-2088-554-144-Fresh-Gallons-Minute/dp/B00C1M6B1C/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N9VF6Q/

Make sure you get the Dorman brand ones or you will be replacing them again. This is a stronger part that fixed the issues with the OE ones. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

I got one of these to put in my sunroof. I will take it out while driving.
Heng's 90043-CR Replacement Vortex I Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N1J5IM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_SiPvzb19T5VKR

Car Heater,CHELIYA Portable 12V 200W 2 in 1 Auto Car Heater Cooling Fan Defroster Defrost Windscreen Window Demister https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J26MSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_54sMDb94258DW

Or window cooling fans? A better version of this would push air out through the vents.

Cruiser Accessories 78410 Suction Cups, Clear, 4 pack – approx. 1” each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vG3Hzb2CWADSZ


They fit perfectly in the Model S front plate plastic holder, not sure if it works on other cars.

Thanks! Is it one like this? https://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G/ref=sr_1_1

The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.

It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).

The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)

I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).

Water pumps aren't known to fail. You got pretty unlucky, but waterpumps are meant to be replaced to avoid catastrophic failure.

One time, a coolant hose leaked, and I lost all my coolant in a plume of steam. My temperature gauge needle was slammed right at "H" My '97 Miata died on the freeway exit ramp, and it wouldn't start up. I pushed it to a parking spot, and I let the engine cool down. I added coolant to the radiator, and topped off the oil. Miraculously, she started up, and I drove home and fixed the leaking hose. She still runs great a 2000 miles later.

I don't know how badly you overheated your engine, but there's a chance the engine is still alive. Top off the coolant and oil, then see if you can start up the engine and drive around. You will only have a couple of minutes before overheating again if your water pump is broken, so I'd get a tow to your home.

You can then look into replacing the waterpump yourself for much less.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-42134-Water-Pump/dp/B000C2W91E.

Got any links? This was the cheapest I could find.

A few hours with a fin comb, it'll be good as new. Warning only for those with OCD.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL10680-Radiator-Fin-Comb/dp/B006K8GKBO

as it turns out, the intake and exhaust housing funnel lots and lots of air into and around the motor. would this compensate for heat buildup?


i found this on amazon but i'm not sure if it's what you were talking about. is it considered a variable frequency drive?

I put suction cups on a plate holder. I pull this out only when using metered parking (which is fortunately only a few times a month).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00032KBEA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CV5PLFM

Sometimes I dry camp in the middle of nowhere so I need to dump when I get home. I have a macerator pump unit that hooks up to a garden hose (I only use the hose for this) and then I stick the far end of the hose into my sewer cleanout and dump it all in there. This also allows me to do a really deep cleaning on my tanks to keep my sensors clean since I can flush a ton of water through my tanks.

Pump I have is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HKZHIW/ and I'd recommend it as it works very well.

The top eighth or so of the fins on my condenser coil are flattened. I don't believe either my wife or I did it. Assuming that's the case, the Ockham in me thinks the fan blows hard enough to flatten them while the misanthrope in me thinks the HVAC guy flattened them when he cleaned them out as part of our spring tune-up.

In any case, our A/C performance this summer has been less than stellar. I just ordered one of these in the hopes that I'll be able to straighten them out.

I bought a Acdelco from the dealer and it was more expensive than at AutoZone. Are you talking about this part?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-2011-2015-Chevrolet-2012-2015-2013-2015/dp/B078GKKS9P/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=Engine+Coolant+Thermostat+Housing+with+Sensor+Gasket+for+2011-2015+Chevy+Cruze+2012-2018+Chevy+Sonic+Replaces+%23+25192228+15-81816&qid=1568560342&sr=8-4

Agreed. Audis look stupid with front plates -- haven't used one for 10 years. But you can't park on the street in DC without a meter maid waddling by and seeing an easy ticket. On the rare occasions I have to, this sticks my plate in the window.

either bar end weights or perhaps a throttlemeister type cruise control. can you use the bolt that came out to put the mirror on? if not, try using a socket the same size as the handlebar and threading the bolt through that to use it like a puller