Best car exhaust parts & accessories according to redditors

That's the rear PCV valve, linked here:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47057-HELP-PCV-Elbow/dp/B000JZI1U2/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=45NCW8ZC6C1VSN98P8WT

If you are swapping both, I'd recommend the grommet as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-42344-Valve-Grommet/dp/B000C5I49C/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W5XYJ6P61B3R65MDZT6N

My first actual ""real" job was when I worked in an Automotive shop in High School. Welding exhausts was part of the job.

Tips n' tricks I learned:

Exhaust pipe can be a trick to get find a good ground on and hangers aren't always easy to clamp onto. Take an old truck battery cable, strip off the insulation and make a neat braid out of the copper. Now you have a pony tail ground! To use it, just wrap/loop the bare copper braid around the exhaust pipe and clamp your normal welding ground clamp to it.

Always leak check your work! When you're done welding up the pipe, have an assistant hold a rag or old welding glove over the exhaust outlet to bump up the backpressure while you look/listen/feel for leaks.

Most steel exhaust pipe has "aluminizing" which is just a thin coating of aluminum on the steel. It welds a lot nicer if you strip off the aluminizing with a die grinder flap wheel. Also if the pipe that you're joining to is used and has a lot of carbon/oil residue on the inside, try your best to clean that up too before welding. If you try welding to a pipe with a lot of built up carbon on the inside it'll offgas which can cause problems with the bead wanting to "volcano" and give a nasty looking weld. Clean pipe welds nicest and a little prep goes a long way.

Get the lightest and flexiest MIG whip you can because welding exhaust on the vehicle can require some tricky contortion at times. Also if you can get a Bernard gun with the rotatable head, that helps for tight areas.

Most exhaust pipe is only 16 gauge, so .025" wire is all ya need.

Some semi-specialized tools you may want to get:

These if you don't own a pair already. They work a lot easier than the old standby of using Channellocks and penetrating oil to slip off rubber isolaters.

A can of high temp silver spray paint. Putting a quick coat of high temp paint over where you've welded and/or stripped the aluminizing off the pipe is considered a nice touch. Only takes a couple minutes and 50 cents worth of spraypaint and customers don't like seeing rust on an exhaust they just had replaced a few weeks ago.

"Stud grip" Channellocks or Knipex Cobra pliers because you'll be "cherrying up" a lot of really crusty 3/8", 8mm, and 10mm studs with a torch and you need something that can get a good bite on them to turn them out.

An air cut-off wheel to hack off all the old hangers and hardware that you can't salvage and won't be reusing. I use a crappy old IR 3" , but if you can afford an extended reach model This one is the bomb

Mine is not built up completely yet, but I'll give you my parts list for everything I have and what I'll be getting as well. :) These prices are close to what I paid for at the time.

What I have:

24" Front LED Bar -$75

36" Roof LED Bar -$180

Rally Armor Universal Basic Mud Flaps -$16

N1 4" Muffler -$40

Curt Roof Rack -$120

Primitive Racing Skid Plates (Front, Transmission (thanks /u/Pizza_The_Hutt), and Rear -$450

5" PA Speaker -$12

K40 CB Antenna (mine came damaged) -$30

Less battle oriented mods:

Nexus 7 16GB (2012)- $199

Sound System- $950

What I'm getting next in order:

SJR 2" Lift Kit -$300

5 General Grabber AT2s -$560

Tube Bumper -$300-$400

That's pretty much everything. So just including off-road related mods, I have spent $923 so far and when I'm done will have spent about $2133.

I hope this helps. :)

What about something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Aluminized-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 or https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-14130-Sided-Thermo-Retardant/dp/B001GFW5Q0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3 ?

Front: Dorman 47079 HELP! PCV Elbow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JZIXIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5LlEXbGrGSf92

Rear: Dorman 47057 HELP! PCV Elbow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JZI1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_5RXB6fuUAgRwJ

Grommets: Dorman HELP! 42344 PCV Valve Grommet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5I49C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2GMSYLIlDpfEr

I removed both muffler and resonator like OP, but I switched the stock resonator for a Vibrant 1792 bottle type. It's loud without any rasp and gets some nice pops and loud DSG shifts with absolutely no drone. I kept the stock tips and it cost me around $250 total for parts and labor.

Exhaust hanger removal tool.

amazon.com/dp/B0012S9A5U/

I have the exact same config. If you wanna tighten up that gap, use 1 of these on each side...

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Vehicles-Muffler-Exhaust-Bushing/dp/B00N3VHKCO/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=uxcell+exhaust+hanger&qid=1554223330&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Hey,

Welcome to the VQ Family

First things first, the best thing I could recommend to you (and all the new peeps around here) is to check G35Driver.com out. It's a gold mine when it comes to information and tutorials. You could probably find your dream wheels there.

LOOL I just checked your video out and it turns out that it's my car ^^
It's a custom Straight Piped exhaust and it's pretty easy to build yourself.
You need to hit an exhaust shop who can build it for you.

You will need a Magnaflow X Pipe and Exhaust Tips.
The rest is straight pipes. The Magnaflow Muffler is going to muffle the sound down and give you a deeper note while reducing rasp and drone. Here's a picture from under my car: http://imgur.com/D2oIcuP. It's going to cost you around $7-800 but I got hooked up by my shop since I recommended tons of people to him and I have been a long time customer since I had my 350z. I have seen people getting quoted as much as $2000.

For your wheels, check GetYourWheels. Personally, I like 5 Spoke Wheels like Avant Garde M550, Vossen CV3 or Stance SC5. If you want to go through a lot of G35s to see different wheel combinations, take a look at our car club, the National G Club ;)

Let me know if you have any question ;)

I wouldn’t say it ALWAYS cracks pipes. Cheaply made pipes wrapped can crack or rust under the wrap when the pipes get wet, and aren’t dried immediately by running the bike. Both my bikes have wrapped pipes, and I haven’t ever had an issue with the pipes failing.

I use this wrap on my bikes: Design Engineering 010127 Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap with LR Technology, 2" x 50' Roll https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002R4U72I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gs6hDb2DE47FH

The color doesn’t fade, like the black wrap I’ve tried in the past.

Not me, I just found it looking at mufflers.

https://www.amazon.com/hz/reviews-render/mobile-media-feed/B007ISYE1I/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_crsl_img_0?ie=UTF8&physicalId=515vGHq4i4L&imageExtension=jpg&reviewId=R2UKXK754YTT03

Sounds like the purge based on your description. It's a plug and play part, takes five minutes. The lifespan of these things are only 30-40k miles. Already replaced mine a few times.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007QB8JA4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Disclaimer, I've never tracked a ST but I have tracked a WRX and when I was battling high outside temperatures I did a couple of things. First was running distilled water with waterwetter instead of a 50/50 mixture for coolant. I found it did a better job at keeping temps a little lower (monitoring using an Accessport) and just did a coolant flush after every track day to put the Ethylene glycol stuff back in.

Second I upgraded everything I could related to cooling. Radiator, hoses, intercooler, heat wrap, turbo wrap, oil cooler, etc. Anything I found that claimed it could help lower temps I tried. I even drove with the heater on full blast for a session just to see what it did.

Third was just being aware of temps while I was on the track and adjusting my driving if things got too hot. While cooling down my car I would really focus on hitting all my points and not worrying about getting the most speed out of a corner.

P0455 is technically a 'Gross EVAP leak or No EVAP flow.' P0401 is low EGR flow, which on this car is measured through the pressure differential between exhaust pressure and manifold pressure. P2187 is lean bank 1.

What these codes tell us, is either you have multiple issues or you have one issue that the computer can't quite put its finger on. Most likely, the Purge Valve (under the hood, not the Canister Vent Valve, by the tank), is leaking. It should normally be closed but is sticking open.

This is probably what you need. To verify, find it under the hood. Unplug it, and the vacuum lines from it and blow through it. If you can, its faulty. Alternatively disconnect just the line that runs back to the firewall, start the car, and see if you can feel suction at the valve with it running.

It depends entirely on the exhaust you buy. Some may require additional or replacement mounts. I strongly recommend buying a set of exhaust hanger removal pliers like these. When I did the catback on my car, I spent the most time fighting with the damn hangers. If you don't have a set of removal pliers, they're a real pain in the ass. It's also helpful to have a spray-on lubricant (silicone works well) so the rubber hangers slide on and off easier. Aside from that, and assuming your stock exhaust comes off without too much of an issue, it should be fairly trivial.

Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3frMBbCHHJP47

Oddly my Amazon is showing it as unavailable but that is the way to go, if you still have issues after that then check your fuel pressure at the rail.

You're saying you're missing the hose that runs to the airbox?

Photos would help

Also, good catch on the heat being an issue.

Mine had a crack from heat, and I noticed dirt/oil under the area it covers. Also had petcock problems, so in trying to seal up the bike completely (decel popping from slip/stock header as well) I patched it up with Permatex Ultra Black, then put some high heat reflective tape over the bottom of it, then used a bit more Permatex to cover up the silver tape for good measure/cosmetics.

The oil return tank (technical microfiche name) began to split at the seam from the heat it appears. It also had pitting/slight perforation from what had to be heat on the rounded part that is immediately above the exhaust.

http://i.imgur.com/j3nccBp.jpg

Here's the tape I mention, and there are dozens of similar products out there.

http://www.amazon.com/DEI-010408-1-375-Cool-Tape/dp/B000E283S0/ref=pd_ybh_10

Felpro makes a really great replacement gasket that’s reusable and never leaks. The 4.0 has a ccv rather than a pcv system and I always replace both vents and grommets (and the little tube connecting the rear vent) along with the gasket when I get another Jeep (I have 6 right now).
Rear crankcase orifice vent is dorman# 47057: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JZI1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o1AQBb8PJSXPA

Grommets are both dorman# 42344: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XS8XYHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K2AQBbMPJ1Z33

The front vent is available in different heights depending on year/model but I think yours is a doorman 47079. In a pinch you can always buy 2 of the orifice ones and drill out the restrictor.

I have this too. Not too loud but noticeable over stock. Deeper tone. Lowest price I found was on Amazon BORLA 140595 S-Type Cat-Back Exhaust System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UMZIWEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rl5NBb60WDBSK

These are the ones I got for my 2018 ScatPack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ISYE1I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pNmKDbAX48GJ5

They sound awesome

had mine cut out and this put in its place https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1792-Bottle-Style-Resonator/dp/B000E3VHVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525899765&sr=8-1&keywords=vibrant+1792

Try to loosen the s, mid and front pipe a little, sliding the mufflers on the OG hangers and if you can't get it how you want, try these. Each notch is about 1cm maybe a little more. You can tell mine hangs a bit lower now but from a standing position they look perfect.

As was mentioned it's the Crank case Vent and tube. Here's the parts:

Vent: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZIXIW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Grommet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5I49C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tube: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000630HOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They might be a little different as they're from my '94 Grand Cherokee, but it's the same engine. You'll want to get all three as the valve is likely to break when you try to remove the tube, and the grommet will probably need to be cut out of the valve cover to replace the vent.

Mom's car is the 1.8. Goto local auto parts shop. Have them read the codes. Print out codes.

​

Purge valve for 1.8 was $16.92

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004JBI5EE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Snorkle was $18.29

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y2VDGM1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those two parts took me about 30 minutes total to replace. Youtube has a ton of videos on the Sonic....

I had that same problem with mine. Replaced these bastards, the oil cap and the back pcv valve and hose and it stopped. Those seals wear out an start seeping oil from the top of the valve cover which coats and preserves the engine.

This is the one I purchased.

It has the expanders on it like the TJs do to prevent cracking, and is a very reasonable price. Had mine a few years with no issues.

Found this solution over at the BRZ forums. I ordered it and will give it a shot.

Vibrant Ultra Quiet Resonator

This was the case with mine as well. My car always had a ticking since I bought it (which is indeed normal), but one day the ticking got noticeably louder. Even people on the sidewalk could hear the ticking over the engine. After replacing the purge valve , thing quieted down again.

Thanks, man. It's deep and burbly 90% of the time, then it's a raspy hellfire when I gun it. Think resonators would kill the sound? I was looking at these here.

Replace the evap canister purge valve. It's a $30 $18 part on Amazon. Sits on top of the engine near the back. Takes just a few minutes to swap out. The parts are slightly different between the 1.8L and 1.4L turbo engines.

|Engine Size|GM Part No|Amazon Item|
|:-|:-|:-|
|1.4L (turbo)|55573017|https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQSHWG2/|
|1.8L (n/a)|55567453|https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/|

Pro tip: do not "top off" when filling up. This creates additional back pressure in the tank that over time causes the failure of the purge valve.

Still pretty sure it's this http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47079-HELP-PCV-Elbow/dp/B000JZIXIW/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Dodge|40&Model=Durango|303&Year=1999|1999&carId=003&n=15684181&s=automotive

On the Speed either your gas cap is loose or your purge valve solenoid is starting to fail. The solenoids are known to go bad on 1st gen Speeds. It's an easy fix, takes less than 10 minutes to change and the part cost $20.

On the 6 it's probably a dirty throttle body. They get gummed up over time from pcv blow by and EGR valve gases. With enough build up they can get stuck I've seen it first hand. Removing and cleaning is not as hard as you would think. Will take around 30 minutes and all you need is a 10mm socket, ratchet and some rags. You might want to also check your air filter and spark plugs while you're at it.

Purchased 50 feet of 2 inch wide heat insulation from amazon. Installed it pretty quick and easy. Be careful though, it's like fiberglass and gets itchy.

I had the same code and it turned out to be heat soak. The intake manifold sits right above the exhaust manifold, so on very hot days the hotter air in the intake was causing fuel to partially vaporize in the fuel rail before it could get to the injectors. Fuel can't atomize properly which means its not combusting as completely which can trigger P0455 even with the vapor return line is doing its job properly.

Check all your lines, tighten your gas cap, and buy a $20 code reader so you can reset your check engine code(s) yourself. If the code doesn't come back within a day or so then heat soak could be your cause. I bought and installed this kit and that solved my problem for good.

Hmmm...I really dont' want to use the flex joint because I can't weld and I don't think it'll be flexible enough for what I have in mind.

My application is as follows: I have a backup generator on my property and want to enclose it in a shed. I still need to vent the exhaust gasses though, so for that I have a separate pipe with its own support structure to do so.

However I need a way to connect the generator's exhaust with that extension exhaust...and due to massive vibrations I'm looking for a flexible connection.

I hope that made sense.

So in all honesty, I'm still looking for a fabric-like alternative...just something I can wrap around the connections of the two pipes...and flexible enough so that the vibrations don't damage the shed/pipe/generator itself. The seal doesn't have to be a 100%, just so taht most of the gas does get vented.

What are your thoughts about something like this or perhaps even this

reviews on Amazon are solid too https://www.amazon.com/140595-S-Type-Cat-Back-Exhaust-System/dp/B00UMZIWEY/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=WRX%20STI%7C22929&Year=2018%7C2018&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

​

ACDelco 214-2317 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KZrQBbZ4R8P75

i use the factory beaver barf foregrip, and i stuffed the inside of it with i number of layers of this:

https://www.amazon.com/010127-Titanium-Exhaust-Heat-Technology/dp/B002R4U72I

works beautifully.

You could also just gut the muffler you have now, though that requires a bit of work and you may not have the tools.

Another option is to put in a fake / straight / pass-through "muffler" that does nothing whatsoever. $30 from Amazon: https://amazon.com/TOTALFLOW-31224-Straight-Through-Performance/dp/B07F3YS95Y

Note: I don't know if that particular one fits, but you get the idea. I'm sure there are other options that just slide over the exhaust pipe and are even less useful in terms of sound reduction.

https://amazon.com/Dynomax-24250-Race-Bullet-Muffler/dp/B007ISYE1I

https://amazon.com/Muffler-AUTOSAVER88-Universal-Stainless-Exhaust/dp/B07BHMP1Z8

https://amazon.com/Muffler-AUTOSAVER88-Universal-Stainless-Exhaust/dp/B07BHKVG74

This header wrap:
https://www.amazon.com/010127-Titanium-Exhaust-Heat-Technology/dp/B002R4U72I

I can't comment on the consequences, other than suggesting it's not a great idea to drive it hard in this condition.

You can get an aftermarket valve on Amazon quickly for cheap. PLEASE VERIFY this is the right part, but I'm pretty sure it is.

Dorman 911-702 Mazda 6 Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004AIHBR8/

MagnaFlow 11386 Exhaust Muffler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XQJZ34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wRWUDbXYFCE1T

I was thinking this one for the middle and then maybe straight piped for the cat back

I went with the Generic 12 hole from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/TOHUU-0280156161-Upgrade-Injector-1999-2004/dp/B07KWWQXL4/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_4?crid=32B7CIJNN1XON&keywords=2000+jeep+cherokee+fuel+injectors+12+hole&qid=1554903065&replacementKeywords=fuel+injectors+12+hole&s=gateway&sprefix=12+Hole+fuel+injectors+%2Caps%2C582&sr=8-4-fkmrnull&vehicle=2000-42-347------------&vehicleName=2000+Jeep+Cherokee

But you can go with any from other Suppliers too. all are about the same quality. Definitely a difference in pickup, but fuel economy depends on driving style. Don't forget to replace the fuel rail shield while you have the fuel rail off. https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=2000+jeep+cherokee+fuel+rail+shield&qid=1554903190&replacementKeywords=fuel+rail+shield&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull&vehicle=2000-42-347------------&vehicleName=2000+Jeep+Cherokee.

Otherwise, A Cold Air intake with K&N filter and a Throttle body spacer will be some of the first (and least work intensive) performance enhancing things you can do. There is a trade off between pick up power, low end torque and economy that you should watch. A Jeep is not a dragster (not built for it, though the project would be fun) and you don't want the wheels breaking loose when you are on a pile of boulders. Stopping at every gas station you pass is also not a desirable feature....

Have fun!

Mine don't stick out quite that much

3.5" Staggered double wall. I did by these bushings but I don't know why that would help really.

I used VHT flameproof flat black coating on pipes i cleaned with scotch brite and a similar looking, but more stiff wheel thingy for my drill. i wrapped them with this wrap and used these locking ties to keep it together

Get a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ISYE1I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They will mellow out the rasp normally experienced with a muffler delete.

All of them will crack eventually. It's just the nature of the design.

I got this manifold back in August and so far I am very happy with it.

I think a full open airbox with some heat shielding on the bottom of the inner air box would be the way to go. Once I do my 12 engine swap I plan to line the frame and under side of the inner air box with heat shielding to help keep heat off the fuel and keeper the intake air temp cooler, like this.Lucky for the R is the only bike with the ecu in the front of the bike, some riders of the X and the S have had heat issues with the ECU as it sits under the seat. The right side of the frame can get really fucking hot if you have not noticed it yet. I got this and this off amazon.

The first thing you should do is change fluids, then fix the heat soak problem if you have a 4.0 and it hasn't been taken care of. I bought a kit from Amazon that's supposed to be an adequate fix for about 60 bucks which can be found here :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015NOKWQY/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After that, I'd focus on the rust problem. There's a good thread here:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/taking-care-of-frame-rust.328/
This is another good resource for questions that you may have:
www.wranglerforum.com

Also, Epstein didn't kill himself.

I bet a vibrant ultra would kill the drone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001806YE2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525816847&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=vibrant+ultra+quiet+resonator+3&dpPl=1&dpID=312mynVifCL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY#customerReviews

That's it, I've only heard good stuff about it. But I would do more research on it as a just in case measure to make sure your money is being spent well.

The long start on hot 4.0 engines is often caused by a heat soak issue that affects the injectors/fuel rail. There is supposed to be a heat shield on top of the intake manifold that keeps heat of the injectors but it’s flimsy and often gets trashed/torn out during repairs. On some 4.0s there are TSBs issued that also call for the injector to be wrapped in individual shields. They make kits for it. I don’t know about your fuel pump issue, but just something to note regarding hot engine starting issues.
Design Engineering 010378 Fuel Rail and Injector Cover Kit for Jeep (1997-2004, 4.0L Engine) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XXEwDb1PVADX9

Yeah it has a bit of a raspy sound, I think I'm going to go with the Dynomax Race Bullet Mini's, they have great reviews and I saw another thread saying that they sound good.

A while back, I noticed (with your help) the PCV Elbow was broken on my 99 Dodge Durango SLT. I ordered the part, as well as a new breather tube and grommet.

However it seems as if the bottom part of the PCV Elbow does not fit into what I imagine the crankcase is?
(And to be fair I had to break the old one further to get it out)

It looks to me like I'm going to have to take the top of the crankcase off and put the PCV Elbow in the through the bottom, then put the grommet on and connect the breather hose?

Does this seem right? If so, is it an easy job?

What are the risks involved? In other words, what could I fuck up?
Do I need a sealant for when I put it back together or anything other than a socket wrench to pull it off?

Any advice would be helpful.

Thanks!

• TL;DR: Do I need to take apart the crankcase to insert the PCV elbow & can a novice pull it off?
  
  (EDIT: Bonus Question: Although I've tried to avoid using the vehicle until it's repaired, in the cases I have had to use it I've noticed the thing is DEVOURING gasoline now. Does the fact that the breather tube isn't hooked up at the moment have something to do with that?)

There is n n1 muffler that sells for like 30 bucks..it sounds pretty low and rumbly if that's what you're looking for..ill find the link in a bit


http://www.amazon.com/ONESTOPSHOPS-Muffler-Universal-Removable-Silencer/dp/B0043AV4NK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8

Thermo-Tec 13575 12" X 24" Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_My2Dzb5GHPG0C

This might help. Saw a review where somebody actually used it on a miata.

I put this on the oil pan, works great:

Thermo-Tec 13575 Adhesive Backed Aluminized Heat Barrier, 12" x 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8lECCb4G1XBP2

Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZKl0Bb2F0NPJQ

https://www.amazon.com/MegaBrand-Burnt-Muffler-Exhaust-Universal/dp/B0043AV4NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539911166&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=n1+exhaust&dpPl=1&dpID=41HkYs7aGIL&ref=plSrch

I have a soft sided cooler with a removable hard insert. It's not the best at keeping ice frozen even with the lid shut. Could some kind of tape like this help keep the summer heat out?

https://www.amazon.com/010408-Cool-Tape-Self-Adhesive-Heat-Reflective/dp/B000E283S0?tag=operasport-20

The plan would be wrap the hard insert with this.

Just to be certain, this is the part right,

ACDelco 214-2317 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister Purge Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JBI5EE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kYIYCb9CSATW0

I'd buy a heat barrier and a hose clamp or two. A safe and simpler solution would be to keep the car outside and run the extension cord under the garage door. I have a 1.5KW inverter that lasted me about 7 hours on a full battery (gen1). My power went out for a full day in the winter but I was able to run a small heater and charge my phone.

It's cool that DEI has a kit specific for the 4.0L engines but to be honest you can do the same thing for a little less than their cost.

DEI 010403 0.75" Aluminized Sleeving Heat Sheath

DEI 010408 1.5" Cool Tape

Does your XJ already have the heat shield installed? If not you can get it here. CBXCB060 SHIELD-EXHAUST MANIFOLD

IMO hood vents are the last thing you should be doing to address heat issues. It's a band-aid instead of finding/fixing whatever the problem is that's causing the heat issues (whether it's heat soak, overheating, etc).

No drone for my ears but not loud enough for down shifts. I went with rev9 stainless. This is my set up just like I wanted my exhaust to sound..

https://shop.redline360.com/products/rev9-catback-exhaust-ford-focus-st-2013-2018-cb-210a?variant=21254593871952&currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_absBRD1ARIsAO4_D3vZaqheXPNlISp-cgSE6_AtRX016CxHpnCGMWmbRTzmBNmq8vHIFLAaAqOIEALw_wcB

Vibrant 1142 3" Ultra Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001806YE2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This while set up still under $600

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrant-1792-Bottle-Style-Resonator/dp/B000E3VHVO

Either this or one of the “Quiet” ones. Other people with GTIs have used this one with good results.

Pro Tie 33529 SAE Size 48 Heavy Duty All Stainless Hose Clamp (Pack of 4), 2-9/16" to 3-1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W6MBQIK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LEDAUT 2" x 50' Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap Roll for Motorcycle Fiberglass Heat Shield Tape with Stainless Ties https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B99B0I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

looks great, maybe some DEI heat tape in either silver or gold for your air box? It will reflect the heat from your engine bay from heat soaking your air filter as fast. I use it for my supercharged camaro.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2416797

I use the silver just because of color preference, I hear the gold works a little better.

silver
https://www.amazon.com/DEI-010408-1-5-Cool-Tape/dp/B000E283S0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478118525&sr=8-1&keywords=dei+tape

gold
https://www.amazon.com/010396-Reflect-GOLD-Tape-Roll/dp/B0039Z5TYU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478118525&sr=8-2&keywords=dei+tape

This is a good kit

https://www.amazon.com/Design-Engineering-010378-Engine-Injecter/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=asc_df_B015NOKWQY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6194809803259040541&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030815&hvtargid=pla-570207636650&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60983009663&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312684231807&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6194809803259040541&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030815&hvtargid=pla-570207636650

Might be a good time to do the fuel injector upgrade. Look it up there is a ton of info on this upgrade. Replacing the spark plugs would be good preventative maintenance. If you can maybe run a compression test before you reinstall the spark plugs. I do that to all my new cars to get an idea of engine performance and wear-down.

I love my TurboXS. Only complaint was that it was a tad loud (especially at freeway cruise speed), but after installing one of these, it's perfect.

Installing a new heat shield worked for me when I was having multiple misfires. I was having this issue because of heat soak like a previous commenter said. P303 came back though, so I got a new cylinder head coming this summer.

Try this:
Design Engineering 010378 Engine Fuel Rail and Injecter Cover (Jeep, 4.0L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015NOKWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1TedBbG7THY43

I found just the larger heat shield for like $20 on eBay but if you want to go all out there is this one.

Something like this, an adhesive backed, shiny aluminum material: https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DWQ4K8B4HVE5ZCPAMM2N


Noico sound deadener is butyl backed and shiny, it might work just as well but be cheaper. It's just like dynamat (butyl), pretty sure muscle car guys use that on the floor to reduce heat from the exhaust. But it will work best if you can face the shiny side towards the heat source, and leave the shiny side uncovered and clean and shiny.

I don't understand what I'm looking at. What do you mean by "header"? I see the manifold (orange) and it attaches to the engine. What "header" do you mean?

I was thinking about this model because it has the flex joints:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BMZU90I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> The car feels very slow to drive and at idle the rpms go up and down which causes it to shake and vibrate.

I experienced this twice. Both times it was the purge valve, which is a plug-and-play part. 20-30 bucks on Amazon, and about 5 minutes to replace. Also, check your valve cover for hissing. If it's not, its most likely purge.

If you have issues after getting fuel, then it's 100% the purge valve.

Sorry I completely missed this comment man. Here is the link to the one i purchased. Just so you know, its not a direct fit. You actually have to cut the resonators off the replica and weld the xpipe in its place. I remember paying around $80 i think for them to cut the resonators and weld the xpipe. I did think about getting different kind of tips down the like but i'm currently trying to sell the car so all the projects for it are on hold. Sorry for the late response, hope i'm not too late. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XQJZ34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just did the install on my 2019 WRX Premium. No additional parts needed. The hardest part of the install was getting the old exhaust off - those spring bolts by the cat were so rusted (after only 1 year).

I bought it from here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UMZIWEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I recommend buying all this for the job: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FPL2CWI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5I49C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZI1U2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZIXIW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cruising 60-70 mph there is no drone, just road noise. Now if you pass someone you will hear the exhaust but it is nowhere near a deafening tone.

If you are interested, you can check some of the other reviews on Amazon

Will this do the trick ya think?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermo-Tec-13575-Adhesive-Backed-Barrier/dp/B00029KC2K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523970088&sr=8-3&keywords=exhaust+shield