Best car polishes & waxes according to redditors
We found 889 Reddit comments discussing the best car polishes & waxes. We ranked the 238 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 889 Reddit comments discussing the best car polishes & waxes. We ranked the 238 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.
Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.
Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.
First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.
Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.
Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.
Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.
Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.
I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.
Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.
Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.
Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!
Edit: formatting/spelling
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y
There pricing is very good, especially on gear with the return policy you receive. Part pricing is still good, especially if you make the free shipping on the smaller moto-specific items like chain lube, etc. Beats Amazon's price by several $$.
Maxima Chain Wax
Amazon - $14
RevZilla - $11.50
Not to mention I have to pay tax on items sold by Amazon which really sours the deal.
Every product you bought you returned? Every product was $50-$100 less when you bought it somewhere else? Why did you keep buying from RevZilla and keep returning their items? Why didn't you do research before you bought it?
You'll need the proper equipment. Hopefully you already have a buffer and compound?
PM me and we can dig into the details, if you aren't familiar with the polishing process.
Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.
The way I do it:
Equipment:
Washing:
Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
Sealant/wax:
After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)
TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag
/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text
I took delivery of my 3 in February of this year (also multi-coat red) and did something very similar to what you are doing. I did have full front PPF (XPEL) installed the day after I took delivery, and then I drove the car for 3 months until temps warmed up. I did the following DYI:
A friend of mine bought a White Model 3 and I did these same steps for him in July (he bought all the materials and the beer :) Both cars are looking great.
Chain brush, chain cleaner, chain lube. Basic tool kit. Stands are nice. For cleaning, I use the Honda spray cleaner/wax and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
>Wash car using 2 bucket method, wash mitt. For soap I am using Meguiars Carnuba Wash
Yep, 2 bucket method and remember to use the right ratio of soap to water. I think that soap is 1oz --> 1 Gallon. I tend to use an old laundry cup and mark the different oz on that cup so that i know i have the right ratios.
>Scrub car with Nanoskin sponge, and a soapy mitt - or should I use ONR - what ratio.
Baggy test the paint but it most cases for a newbie there paint will need a clay/decon. IronX or TriX(Tar and Iron remover) is a nice thing to have but really is a luxury. In the case with what lubrication to use while you nanoskin, I like o just use my soapy water that is at the right ratio and should be clean due to the to bucket wash keeping junk out of the wash bucket. If your using ONR as clay lube the ratio 1:64.
>Rinse car with water
Yep using the flood method. The water should just sheet off and shouldn't leave much behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc
>Dry with ONR 1:16 ratio & Dry Me a River towell - is that a good ratio?
With ONR less is more in most cases. This will leave some behind. If i used ONR as a clay lube then the 1:64 is what i would be using. If i am mixing fresh i would be going 1:128. Reminder to pre-wet your towel wring it out.
>Wax - I was going to use Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 I am not sure about this one to be honest. My car is a daily driver, so I want something that will last a long time. Is there something else I should be using? Maybe the Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax instead? https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/
The biggest thing for protection staying is the prepwork. The step alot of people tend to forget is using IPA wipedown after everything as this will give the surface the cleanest, and driest area for the protection to bond to.
The Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is also Meguiar's Sealant M21. This should get you 3-4 months depending on where the car is kept(inside vs outside 24/7)
The Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax they pushed more for a beading looking because care enthused like that. I think if you have the budget I would get Jescars Powerlock and Collinate 845 look for these on autogeek,autopia-carcare, fav detailing site as they will tend to have deals better than amazon
I would watch https://youtu.be/34GKKyrFrFI?list=PLG_BGdABDC9vWAZVwdmLNAU7J7kwNmJGH and kind of follow it but depending on the level of effort you want to put in.
If your looking to get just one protection product I would get Collinate 845
Any protection truly lasting longer then 6 months is either on a car that isn't exposed to the elements or is a coating. Protection should be reapplied at regular intervals. My daily driver is black, 3 kids and sits outside 24/7 so my interval is 3 months.
Hope this helps and enjoy your detailing path.
You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.
Here's some links
Basic steps:
You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
edit: two other tips...
If you're using the quik wax, you might as well just go get a gallon of Meguiars Synthetic Express Spray Wax. It's a great quick wax, drying aid, door jamb wipe, and you can use it on plastic and rubber without worry as well. Google some videos. I think Auto Fetish has some vids about how useful it can be for off-label uses.
Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z0Uzzb9KMWRYJ
And to your original question-yeah, spray waxes are good for a finishing shine and a bit of temporary protection.
Someone bought these polishing sheets on Amazon and posted the results. Looked good as new. I bought them also.....they are sitting on my counter.
Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mzSrybEFT4MJX
Black or silver?
You might be able to polish light scratches. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518023245&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+aluminum+polish&dpID=51bXDNFZtVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
on my stainless steel Apple Watch, and it works great! Obviously it's not a one-time thing, you'll have to polish the surface every so often, but it makes my watch sparkle like new. I polish it roughly once a week, and it takes just a few minutes.
I like automatic watches. I've also got a wife, child, and house to pay for. I also love to beat the shit out of my stuff because it just sort of happens.
Enter the SNK803. Automatic. Tough. Most importantly, easily replaced if I destroy it. But, I don't like the matte finish of the case. I DID have a dremel tool. Do I have an autozone? Yes I do. Do they carry mother's mag & aluminum polish? Every day. So I polished it up. Not mirror, a shiny satin finish. But now I need a quality strap. So I ordered a John Allen Woodward Alligator for $1,100...NO! What goes best with a satin finish and a beige face? Simple leather! This is a Ritche Genuine Leather NATO strap for a timex weekender. Happens to come in 18mm. And you know it's high quality leather. How? Says so. Genuine is right in the name. Only the best straps come WITH a tool to remove the pins.
Now I've got a watch that looks great, keeps great time, is a tiny mechanical wonder, and looks just as good at work as it does hiking. With a grand total of maybe $60 and an hour of work in it.
Yes, plenty of people including myself have done it. Purchase these and just polish them off. Your phone will end up actually looking better than new.
https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO
Be carefully to just polish the metal and not the glass. I used painters tape to mask off those areas. Also try and steer clear of getting the polish into ports and holes. This works for fine scratches like from case rubbing and being in pockets with abrasive debris etc , these will not work for deep scratches from dropping it etc.
As a professional auto detailer, this is what I do to keep the bike looking spiffy with minimal risk of swirling the paint.
First, I use a pressure washer on my bike, it's a 2000 psi washer so no real risk of damage to anything and works great for getting those bugs out of the radiator and tiny little crevices as well as a good majority of the dirt which is just less to grind into the paint when you finally hit it with the ONR (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797720&sr=1-1&keywords=onr). A hose would work also, just not as effective. (If you have the money, go buy yourself a foam cannon with some chemical guys honey dew soap and save yourself some time)
Then I grab 2 buckets with Grit Guards in each. (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-IAI503-Guard-Insert/dp/B00ABYVTZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469797070&sr=1-1&keywords=grit+guard) and fill one with ONR and the other is a rinse bucket. The washing part is pretty simple. Buy yourself a microfiber wash mitt, dip it in the bucket with ONR and scrub an area of the bike down. Rinse it off and the rinse bucket and repeat until the bike is clean. Pro tip: Do your paint first and other areas that can be easily swirled and work your way to the dirtier areas on the bottom of the bike that are more likely to have the mitt pick up dirt.
I dry the bike with a leaf blower dedicated to detailing (basically one that has never been used in reverse to suck leaves up) to get all the hard to reach places dry. You can also use a standard microfiber drying towel for this.
Once it is dry, I'll hit the chrome with a chrome polish and put a coat of wax on (collinite 845 is my go to, but any mequiers wax is plenty good) and hit the mirrors and headlight with some glass cleaner.
If you have a chain, put some wax on that bad boy since you most likely just washed it all off. I don't put any kind of vinyl or leather protection on the seat because shit is always slippery. I know wheels look nice when they are nice and shinny, but you will eat shit if you put on any kind of wheel shine.
/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him
---
do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?
for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)
leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.
for plastics I like this. a lot
leahter cleaner here
for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.
I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.
this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!
if you're like me and dont have time to clean...
once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here
I like mckees products a fair bit ;)
for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(
---
here's another one
---
TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
I clean my own jewelry with this polish and double layer cloths.
I got an heirloom platinum ring resized at Symmetry three years ago. They were honest with me about time frame and gave me a discount in the end. I would recommend them to anyone based on my experience, though I know others may not have had the same.
Gave up on wet tumbling and use dry media but ad a cap full of Nu Finish Liquid Car polish.
Brass turns out looking like brand new!
​
https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C
Here's all the stuff I use :)
Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_F6w0AbEJ739V8
I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.
great looking pens.
​
for sanding insides: wet or dry sandpaper, water, 320 grit up to 1200 grit, lots of time to stand there and sand b/c it's BORING work, and one of these-
https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Slotted-Mandrel-1-4-Shank-Body-Split-End-Head-Core-Sanding-Internal-Holes-/221323367298
​
and after that a paper towel instead of sandpaper, and plastic polish. Some of us use headlight polisher from the auto parts stores. I like the heavy cut meguiars, and then a light cut meguiars.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_vnNMDb8YZZX2C
Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.
2 buckets from Home Depot - $6
2 Grit Guards - $18
Megs Gold Class Soap - $9
Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11
einszett Cockpit Premium - $10
Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4
Chemical Guy's APC - $10
Optibond Tire Gel - $11
Grand Total of $109
There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.
A few simple ones: No eating in the car. No Drinking in the car. No smoking in the car. Empty all clutter from the car when you leave, everytime.
As far as waxing goes, it depends on the wax you use and where you live. The closer to the equator you live the more you should wax. If you live near salt water you should wash more frequently. I have have good luck with a product called Nu Finish. I apply it about every 4 months, but I live in South Florida. Also, get an orbital buffer. They are cheap and save a LOT of elbow grease when buffing.
Armor-all or another plastic protectant is a must on the interior. Rain-X is nice too but not needed for actual care.
Well clearly they didn't keep polishing it even though it was still being used. Because of that, with gradual use, it started to get more and more scuffed.
Someone tweet this at D-Bro and the game should be good until Season 1 starts.
It's not very likely that it's pewter. Pewter contains lead that leaches into food and is not used much anymore.
That said, does need a polish, as in removing scratches or is it just discoloration and dirt? Polishing would require proper polishing compounds and wheels. If you want to clean it up try "Eagle one Never Dull". It's a wadding that comes in a tin and it does a surprising good job at tarnish, mineral stains, and overall cleaning without scratching. That would probably be my first stop. It is a bit stinky but works well.
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-E301131001-Original-Nevr-Dull/dp/B000CNBI1A
Actually, this is just from a wash and Chemical Guys Blacklight
About a month ago I did a full detail which included:
All applied with a Porter Cable DA polisher and some high quality Micro Fiber towels
Wash: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Hyper-Wash-Foaming-Leaves-D11001/dp/B0006SH4IM
Clay: https://smile.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G
Decontamination: https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-x-cleaner.html
DA: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
Polish: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI
Compound: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI
Pads: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004104678/ref=twister_B00NN89SGI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Coating and Sealant: https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-uk-edition.html
1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.
2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.
3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra
4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit
5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.
6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.
Only my second time doing it, so I'm no expert.
I bought the Mequires clay kit.
Washed the car thoroughly.
Dried with a chamois.
Started with the roof because it's the hardest part, it had tree sap and would require additional work, and I'm putting a roof rack on soon.
You want to do this in the shade for many reasons, but the biggest reason is you want the panels cool so the spray solution stays on the panel longer. It's a lubricant of sorts so the clay slides easier.
Work the clay over the entire panel, spraying more solution as needed. I recommend doing small sections at a time.
Periodically wipe the section down with the supplied microfiber cloth and inspect your work. You should feel an obvious difference between a clayed area and an untouched area.
Once you've completed the job, apply wax so the paint is protected. I have always used carnauba paste waxes so I stuck with Meguiar's Gold Class. Paste is more difficult to apply but I feel I get better application than liquid.
I also mask off the edges of the plastic and trim because wax is a PITA to remove from them. And I can be a little sloppy with the application.
I'll try and get some before and after close-up pictures when I do another panel.
I do this all the time. I use Nu Finish car polish (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C) it has a polymer base that can fill in small scratches and repair scuffs for it actually fills in the space of the crack with transparent plastic. It works great on minor stuff and with a good buff wheel you can get most scratches out.
There is also heavy duty version http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-NFS-05-Scratch-Doctor/dp/B000AME50Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1 have not tried it on screens though.
You're better off buying new ones as you get fresh adhesive strips on the back, and you don't have to worry about fucking them up as you take them off. $20 each on amazon.
Here's what I did. Under $50, front and back emblems, including spray paint purchase.
These two emblems on amazon, front and back OEM:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFDH8KQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSCN9US
Scuff them up with sandpaper so the paint adheres better to the smooth surface of the emblems, then. Spray paint with flat black. 4 or 5 coats with some time in between to let each one dry. I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XG68SMM
Then put aside and let them dry.
Onto removing your current emblems:
Get some fishing line and 3M adhesive remover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W
Spray the adhesive remover on the emblem on your car, then using the fishing line, work at the adhesive using a sawing motion to cut through the layer attached to your car. Once the adhesive is all cut, and you can move the fishing line around like you're flossing, you can pull it out and the emblem will pop out. In addition to the adhesive there are 2 little plastic spikes that stick into holes on your car body. That's the popping out part. You'll have to tufg at it to remove it. Some people break them, hence buying new emblems. Then spray some more adhesive remover and remove the crud left behind with a microfiber towel. If you have a lot of crud, you can use a plastic scraper like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HLWB0BM - or even a credit card... spray with the 3M product, scrape the crud, wipe the crud off the car, repeat. Was pretty quick and painless. Once you're all done, wipe off the adhesive remover with a microfiber towel, make sure you're all nice and clean, then peel off the plastic strips on your new emblems, put it in place, and viola. 10 minutes tops, not including the spray painting.
It should be at least 55-60F temperature to apply emblems properly. They won't stick in colder weather.
Good luck. Simple and easy upgrade. 15 bhp to the wheels.
All I have to add is this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3M makes the most amazing adhesive remover I have ever used in my life. Spray it on, wait a few seconds, and it destroys any sticky glue. Life changing stuff.
Nevr-dull works great for this. Also available at local stores, like Autozone, etc.
I don't have a stake in this game. I do think it's interesting that the company directly refutes your assertion:
WD-40 and Bikes
Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.
Fact: While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is
formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients,
and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does
not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to
wipe off any excess WD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding.
For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle
maintenance needs, check out WD-40® BIKE. Developed specifically
for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care
products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike
mechanics for decades.
I also think it's weird that after saying it's fine to use on bike chains, assuming you wipe off excess, they've got something that's specifically designed for bikes - which either was marketed because it's actually better for bicycling purposes, or was released due to bike shops instructing people not to use it for this purpose.
Personally, I prefer wax-based chain products on my (motor)bike. If wax-based isn't handy, multi-use teflon'll do.
There are guys that use WD-40 on their motorcycle chains exclusively, and swear by it.
Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),
This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.
certainly.
also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.
clay bar
everything clay bar, compound, and polish
As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.
Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.
If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.
I've been pretty happy with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax
Rain X, always
A gallon of car wash soap to last you a few years: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988980&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+and+gloss
A gallon of spray wax to last you a few years:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
Gallon of leather cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D18001-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0006SH4PU
A 36-pack of microfiber towels to last you maybe a year.. depending on how many kids you're carrying (is it bad I assume you're carring kids in this daycare limosine?) , keep all towels separate for duty: https://www.amazon.com/Kirkland-Signature-Premium-Microfiber-36-Pack/dp/B00GARQKII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1509988902&sr=8-1&keywords=kirkland+microfiber
Gallon sized products are the way to go for general cleaning. Glass cleaner concentrates that dilute 10:1, Wheel cleaners (dilute), all purpose cleaners (dilute), Leather cleaners, spray waxes, etc.
Maintenance:
Buy a 5 or 10 pack of oil filters on amazon. Also funnel, oil rags, and every type of oil filter wrench.
Buy full synthetic oil at walmart or on amazon.
Install a fumoto oil drain valve for easy oil changes.
Rhino ramps to drive up on.
i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.
i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars
as well as ultimate compound
and some polish
i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.
that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.
edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.
simichrome .
Used this for years on my motorcycle chrome. Works awesome, and one tube lasts forever, as you only use a tiny bit.
I've used this stuff in the past with great results:
https://smile.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E
Not op but I’d guess mothers mag and aluminum polish. Stuff is awesome
Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KQ7rDb8SDD7MD
FWIW: I bought one of these and I love it. You could establish a new edge on the most coarse stone, and refine it with the other two. As an alternative to finer stones, use automotive-grade sandpapers to get it up to 2500-3000 grit. For putting the final edge on it, I have a strop made from an old leather belt that I cover with a small amount of Mother's Mag. Honestly, though, you could stop at the fine stone on that tri-hone and be all set.
Hope this helps!
Followed this tutorial.
Got everything from amazon. Went with this dremel since it came with the polish wheels. This add-on item polish.
And these for safety. (And to meet the minimum for the add-on item.)
With 0 dremel experience, it was still easy. Didn't even mess up the glass, but I'd already upgraded mine to sapphire so I can only speak for that.
I use Meguiar's gold class. Any Caranuba wax is high quality, but that is the one I prefer and have found to be a very good price point.
Waxing is relatively straightforward. You will need a lot of soft shammy towels to buff the wax in and remove excess. It'll say on the can something similar to this: take the pad inside the wax can and buff the wax into the car in circular motions. Take a shammy towel and buff the wax using the same circular motions and removing excess. Flip to the dry side of the shammy towel and wipe the remaining excess away. Do that one small section at a time (for instance, I do one door at a time, or half of the hood).
Happy waxing! It'll make the car like you've never seen it before.
honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.
what i use:
griot's garage clay
meguairs soap
mothers cleaner wax
nu finish
and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.
my once a year routine is as follows:
wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax
usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.
also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.
Mine were just as bad and used this stuff.
http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A
Takes about 10 minutes and I was able to get my shinny back
They are surprisingly easy to repolish.
I use this and the watch looks brand new when I'm done. Removes scuffs as well!!!
Cape Cod Polish
https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO
Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.
Used this wash and wax from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Personally I use a very very tiny amount of Honda Polish on almost all my electronics and have never seen it remove or tarnish any surface and it works great.
This crap. Going to buy it for the same purpose on my bike... after everything else is done. So, never. But yeah..
Cleaning a knife is easy. You can pretty much use any sort of solvent you've got handy, but if its too strong it may take off your blade labels. Start with water. It's actually a pretty good solvent. You'd be surprised how well it works most of the time. Afterwards make sure you dry it good and wipe the whole thing down with a good machine oil.
Or pick up a specialized metal polish. I like Simichrome. It's a great cleaner/polisher/protectant all in one step, but there are several good products on the market. A tube of something like that and a drop of oil for the pivot is really all you should ever need.
https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E
And to not leave anything blank, here is what I'm happy with that I use:
For polishing cartridge pins - [Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish](http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-5100-Aluminum-Polish-Paste/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605826&sr=8-4"She's not my mother, but I love her")
To speed up the process/ to tackle very damaged pins - my trusty [variable speed Dremel tool](http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-300-1-24-Variable-Speed-Rotary/dp/B002BAHFBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605918&sr=8-2"Don't leave home without it, unless you enjoy having friends, then don't bring that anywhere") (I use a large polishing disc with the polish, and make a huge mess, if you are going to try this - WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. You only get two eyes, it'd be a shame to ruin any of them.)
Sticker removal - [Un-Du](http://www.amazon.com/Du-Products-Adhesive-Remover-4-Ounce/dp/B002E3KMSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319606203&sr=8-1"The only thing better than this would be a product that let you punch who ever decided to put a goddamned monster sticker over the goddamned label of a copy of Duck Tales 2. If I find you, I swear I'll punch you. It'll be easy, your name is all over your carts in marker. Do you know how hard that is to take off? Do you BILLY?!?") This is made of unicorn tears, or something. You can (although I don't recommend) pour this on over your main cartridge label to pull up a sticker on the top, when it dries, the label should not show any liquid was on it, and will become sticky again (be careful, that sticker will also have it's adhesive properties return). Very good product, and if you couple it with an old gift card, you can peel up pretty much anything. I can't praise this enough.
General staples - Rubbing Alcohol (highest concentration you can find), a million or so Q-Tips, Windex, and Compressed air (try to find someone without the additive that prevents kids from using it as a drug, unless you have excellent ventilation, you'll get that taste in your mouth, and it is awful.)
Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish is great for removing surface blemishes / rust.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478636075&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+mag
I used a dremel and this stuff:
Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mother’s. All I did was use the soft polish attachment and go to town on the SS. It worked great on my skx that o had gouged trying to remove the bezel with the wrong tool. It took awhile, but t worked great.
You can wash with soap and water, APC, or even aluminum-safe wheel cleaner if its really funky. When you clean it, use a pressure washer/compressed air to blow out the fins. If there is anything built up it will reduce the performance of the intercooler.
This video is a pretty good guide on polishing bare aluminum to a mirror finish. It is time consuming and messy, but you will get good results. If there aren't any deep scratches, I usually wetsand with 400, 800, 1000; sometimes finishing with #0000 steel wool before moving to the rouges. Instead of a compound at the end, I typically use something like mothers mag and aluminum polish, and finish with a coat of wax.
0000 steel wool and mothers polish. I just cleaned my 749 Termignoni's and the 0000 steel wool didn't harm them a bit. Give it a nice soap and water clean afterward. Mothers has a residue but man does it shine nice!
Pads
Polish
Wipes
Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover has worked very well for me.
Every other Turtle Wax product I've used has been terrible but this one is actually pretty good
I don't know if it's "The Best Way", but after peeling the sticker from my car with the hair dryer trick I used some Turtle Wax Bug & Tar remover to remove the glue residue and it was very effective.
As an aside, I haven't tried it yet for anything else.
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2tZTAbNVCW14X
Seconded for 3M Adhesive Remover. I've tried a bunch of stuff and hands down this is the best.
Never-Dull
I've done everything from the exact interval as specified by the service manual, to maybe not lubing a chain for a whole year on one bike a long time ago.
My experience has been that you SHOULD keep your chain lubed, but also, a high quality chain like a DID x-ring will put up with an amazing amount of use even if you push the interval farther than suggested.
The number one most important point in this discussion, IMVHO, is that you inspect your chain (and sprockets!) frequently and with a careful eye. If you do this often, you should be able to catch any issues developing with your chain before they become a chain failure.
If you see visible rust, its time for a hardcore cleaning and re-lube. I like kerosene and a chain brush for cleaning, and a wax based spray lube for relubrication. A scottoiler is a great addition to any bike as long as you don't mind doing the install and keeping an eye on it to ensure it is dripping at the correct rate (and to refill it before it runs dry).
Wax is often a lot less messy. Maxima makes a really good one that takes about 2 seconds to apply and sets rather quickly. It smells nice too IMO.
this works wonders for the SS version but if it's aluminum you're out of luck http://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO
Hey guys, so idiot me managed to bang my watch into a table a cause it to dinged up. Luckily I found this cloth and after an hour of buffing it, the dent is almost completely gone. Really surprised it worked as I was looking at changing the bezel insert.
Thought I’d share in case anyone else has dents or scratches they’d like to remove.
Cape Cod Polish Co Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Uke1CbE1Q2PSC
IF I FITS I SITS
This one is always my favorite!!
My add-on and this
Yep. Meguiar's quik wax. There's like two different versions and I don't know what makes them different from each other but I guess they're more or less the same.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNS2/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B00P9OF00C
Spray, let it sit a moment, wipe it around the areas you regularly wax, done.
I cannot speak for how long this spray wax lasts compared to actual wax, but for me it's been very effective as a complete novice to car detailing and cosmetic maintenance.
Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!
Here's what I learned:
Buy the equipment:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html
https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)
You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)
Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO
https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG
Claybar the car:
https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS
It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).
The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.
Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.
My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.
Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.
First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/
Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.
When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.
After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/
Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.
Meguiars 205, HD Polish, McKee's 37 Fast Polish, Menzerna 3500 come to mind. And honorary mention for HD Speed (All In One or Polish + Sealant) since it's not just a polish but is soooooo good.
Yup, Ultimate Polish will work just fine, but if you're going off Amazon anyway I'd go with M205. It's basically the pro version of UP and has slightly more cut but finishes extremely well.
And yeah, you'll need to rewax after, but make sure you're using an IPA spray first to remove the oils so it bonds well! Which Youtube video watch before, btw?
Does this bike sit outside all the time without a cover? Do you ride it to work and park it in the direct sunlight all day? Those would be the first offenders. My bike is 9 years old and gets covered a lot - the seats still look brand new. Use this stuff when you clean your bike - it helps protect the plastic. I swear by it!
https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
Pro Honda Polish
I swear by it. It's the only thing I use on my Harley. Chrome/Paint/Glass. Look no further.
We got lucky, the PO used to baby this aircraft and would basically live at the hangar and wax it frequently! We try our best to keep her clean. This stuff is magical and what he used to keep the paint cleaned and protected, and It takes bugs off with ease!
My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash,
clay, Iron X treatment,Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:Products Used:
0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!
Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.
Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!
Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V7R7BbFT6WKYB this will change your life as it did mine
I also used car guys hybrid wax sealant
Yes it will work as all of those. You may also want to look into [ONRWW] (http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464230627&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) . I use both on a regular basis. I also really like [WG Uber] (http://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464230678&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wolfgang+uber) the best. ONRWW will leave protection behind. WG Uber works phenomenal, smells good, leaves a high gloss and paint very slick. Its by far my favorite one.
Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.
Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485457672&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485453717&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=last+touch
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485457691&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485455013&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=supreme+shine
I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!
Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.
An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA
And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.
To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.
For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.
Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.
Been using Meguire's Car Wash
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ioMDbSFX1D4K
and Liquid Wax
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkoMDb4XC1C4Y
Been happy with the results Consistent waxing really makes washing alot easier
If you go thru lots of ultimate quick wax, buy Megs Xpress Spray Wax by the gallon. Way cheaper, same product.
MEGUIAR'S D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax, 128. Fluid_Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HTbtDbSMXDYET
X-Press spray is a magical. Think detailer spray, but it actually does something. Dries clear, so you can use it on any surface. I usually spray my car while it's still wet after washing, then just dry it off with a microfiber. Water beads off like everything was rain-x'ed
https://www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B005JPJMI2/
It's easy to get caught up in all of the information on the internet about detailing. My advice would be to keep it simple. The goal is to keep it clean and prevent swirl marks. Go check out AMMO NYC on YouTube and watch some of Larrys videos. 90% of detailing is a simple concept, prevent dirt or grit from being rubbed again your paint. Foam cannons, 2 bucket washes, air drying, etc. the purpose for all of this is to get as much dirt off without rubbing it into your paint. I bet most of the guys on this sub could achieve great results using the cheapest Walmart products because many have a good understanding of decontamination and technique. The reason we all cringe when we see automatic washes, brushes at self serve washes, squeegees on paint is because it goes again the basic principal of don't rub shit into your paint.
Once you get this principle down you can venture into the money pit that is auto detailing products to achieve even better results.
One thing I would add to your cart is Megs D156, it has a ton of uses and works great as a drying aid.
Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_2vROybTQWAZC2
If you mean a spray wax, check out D156 by Meguiar's. Solid spray wax that smells really good, and can be used on the paint and any plastic trim. Not exactly sure what the durability is like, though.
Also if you want it for a bit of a discount, I (and others on here) have a wholesale account with Detailed Image.
This right here. But I go crazy and do 2 coats of Power Lock and 2 coats of 845. And I hit the whole car with D156 after each wash as well.
Buy this and be mindblown that you ever needed water in the first place, it's fantastic. I also like to dilute some of it and use it as a quik detail/waxer.
http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462805403&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
I use Meguiar's Gold Class for soap and in this picture I used Meguiar's Spray Wax as a drying agent.
My very first wash a few weeks ago I used HydrO2 for a longer lasting hydrophobic sealant.
Planning to wash and wax my wife's car this weekend. My plan is to use Meg'sUltimate as the wax. I've used NuFinish forEVER.
Would/Could/Should I apply NuFinish and then Meg's?
Edit: spelling
hey thanks for the advice i took into consideration what you suggested and ended with this stuff,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170694956256?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190381853105?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&amp;_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
and maybe this?
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y
Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.
Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!
Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
THANKS!!
Start with a polish instead. Always least aggressive. M205 if Amazon ships to you or maybe you can find some Meg's Ultimate Polish at an auto shop.
I've yet to use it. I have a bottle waiting to try but I've had a few ppl tell me about it. I actually used to use Meguiars D156 as a drying aide everytime I washed & it just didn't feel like it did anything. I'm sure it did, but I never got the feeling it was adding any protection or longevity to my wax job.
Maybe someone else will chime in but it seems like some ppl are using these ceramic sprays as their only form of wax/protection. So to me if that's the case then it should definitely be an added benefit to apply over top of Collinite.
Look up some vids on YouTube. There are plenty.
Yup. See if you can pick up some Meguiar's Plastx or Ultimate Compound or Ultimate Polish. Depending on the severity of the haze, you may need to start with Ultimate Compound first.
Maybe try using a very light cutting Polish or Compound and buffing it out with a Dual action buffer.
Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
Hope this helps!
I clean my bike after almost every single ride. Sounds like overkill, but I live in a rural area with a lot of bugs.
I'm a bucket and hose guy. I usually just use some generic car wash soap from walmart with a decent car wash brush/sponge thing. For stubborn bugs, I've found that those fluffy round things that girls use in the shower work pretty good and don't leave scratches. I bought a pack of quality microfiber cloths to dry it down.
I'm still experimenting with different brands and types of wax for the painted pieces, so if anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them.
Finally, I polish the chrome. I've tried a few different brands and they were okay, but then I found THE ONE. This stuff is great, and not just on chrome. It made stainless steel pieces shine like I've never seen before. If you have chrome, you need this polish, thank me later.
The first thing I would try is Simichrome polish along with a lot of elbow grease. That may well help fix some of the scratches too. If that works, follow it up with an application of Renaissance Wax.
I think that should clear up your finish.
Gonna need some Simichrome, from the looks of things.
https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E
Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_CBVFwbKVP7ZTQ
This and a brillo pad would probably do it, cover it with oil afterwards.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I7dKzbNHKJZZ1
Use an all purpose metal cleaning paste like Simichrome.
Mother's aluminum wheel polish. I know it sounds odd, but the stuff will make your headlights look like new in no time :-).
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/
>Sony PS-X500
I've used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish on TT platters but be aware it will bring it to a shiny chrome like finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068GEJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Here's a good example:
&#x200B;
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cleaned-my-vpi-scout-ii-platter.752930/
as a classic car owner, Mothers Mag and Aluminium polish
http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y
nothing comes even close to it.
I bought 00 and 0000. Only used the 0000 because I wanted to take the least metal off. You have to cut into the metal though you will see small lines that don't look good until polished. You will see the tarnish disappear.
Chrome though, I didn't even need to polish. Brushed it with the steel wool rust came off and it was shiny and perfect looking.
Wool Grades
Steel Wool first. Then i used a aluminium/mag polish called Mothers.
Idk about the bottom of the forks at least on my bike that finish is different. But all the cross members on the forks shined up right
Man... that raw aluminum makes me want to take some Mothers to it... could probably achieve a mirror finish.
Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OWsoxb449WA9N
This works perfectly for me!
You can polish the blade with mothers mag polish or somthing simular, and you can patch the handle with sugru
Use Mothers mag polish.
[Mother's Polish w/ microfiber cloth] (http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419893973&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mothers+polish) for heavy duty stuff and a Jewelry Cloth for everyday use.
Use something like this.
> For batteries, I'm using some efest IMR 18650s, do you think a different battery would make a noticeable difference?
eFests and mechs do not go well together, that being said hopefully you have one of the 20 amp rated ones, but it's still likely a poor choice for a mechanical device. Before buying the mod or at the same time you should have bought at least two of these, which currently is the cheapest price out of the three known trustworthy vendors for authentic cells.
You should read more into mechanical mods if questions like this are ones you need to ask, not meaning to be rude. Using an ohms law calculator at 4.2v you're going over 1a of what hopefully is the rating of your battery (if you have the 12a then this is actually not safe) but your mod will be pulling less with voltage drop. You should be calculating for 4.2 though to give yourself some headroom for safety. Especially if you threw an efest into a mech. I apologize if I come off condescending, it's not my goal at all, it's just with mechanical mods the battery is possibly one of the most important things to know how many amps you have to work with and you should never use rewraps in a mech. There's other batteries with lower ratings people use but honestly, I don't see any reason to when the VTC5a exists, is available, and possibly the all around best battery for vaporizers in general. In regulated devices you can sacrifice that extra cdr for some more battery life but in this situation the CDR is going to be a major determining factor in building safely and knowing what is safe and isn't as you need this for ohms law calculation.
Use the 510 pin cap for now because the more safety involved currently the better. Also if you didn't already know make sure to religiously check your battery wraps for any nicks or tears. With your mod you do have the delrin insulation I believe, but honestly if there's a tear or any damage to the wrap just rewrap it to be safe, you really don't want a short to happen and I don't want to see you on the news.
If there's any other questions that you're hesitant to ask, you may as well, because I'd rather help clear some things up or show you areas in which to read more so you know how to use what you have as safe as possible, and with efest batteries it worries me that there may be some things you may have missed.
Tldr: order these and don't use the efests. 2 of them should be fine unless you plan on using it as a main device in which 4 may be a safer bet, but 2 should be fine. Plus you're still learning some things it seems to there's no reason to use a potentially risky rewrap with false ratings when something like that is so cheap, and performs so well.
edit: I use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish for my mech mods, they're copper but I want to say that works well for brass too. Theres videos on how to properly polish if you are unsure. You want to wash it off after you use that though so you prevent potential damage to your device by leaving some of it behind. Pick up battery wraps and insulators as well, you're going to need these if you vape regardless and with mechanical mods you should have some ready to go as soon as any damage to the wrap happens. They're dirt cheap and it's easy to do, again there's youtube videos that show how to rewrap 18650s. Don't get them mixed up with other batteries though afterwards, as you don't want to throw a 15a battery into that thinking it's 25a and pulling too much power from it than the cell can handle.
Hybrid mode is more conductive but at this stage in the game I would use the topcap with the 510 pin instead. You likely won't notice a dramatic difference and it's safer for now.
Also you will probably have better luck with simple round wire builds than things like claptons simply due to ramp up time. Especially since at the moment if you continue to use that without the batteries I linked, you want to pulse it as little as possible. I am erring on the side of caution but if I am aiming for what's safest for you right now and until you learn all you should have known before buying a mech, you probably should too. Either way though, I find simple round wire builds are better in the builds I have tried compared to the fused claptons I gave a shot once. I don't like ramp up time though and even if you look at a lot of way people who are "sponsored" build you will see half the time they are still using basic round wire builds too. They just work and are simple.
Hi All!
My family owns a heating oil delivery business and we pride ourselves on having the cleanest and best looking trucks around.
To polish the tanks, we use Mother's Aluminum polish (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y) applied by hand (to avoid swirls, I'm told)
I was wondering if you guys could shed some light on a best approach to keep these looking like a mirror finish? Could a DA polisher be used? Is there a better product than the aluminum polish? Should we be waxing the tanks as well?
Here are a couple of pictures: http://imgur.com/a/IfTnb
Thanks for any tips! I know this is a little unique since it's metal instead of paint!
Depends on how bad. I've used Autosol products for aluminum oxidation with pretty good results. It's not super cheap, though. Also, some Mothers Mag Aluminum Polish works well if the surface is pretty clean.
It's hard to say without seeing the pipes, but heavy rust is usually really difficult to remove as the metal has physically changed. Feel free to send a picture of your pipes, though!
Sure, awesome find by the way.
After removing all the tubes I wiped it down a few times with just a damp cloth to get the heavy dust off. The real pain is getting rid of the sticky yellowed smoke film that most old tube gear has. The best thing I've found to get rid of it is Zep All Purpose Cleaner. It's green and can be found at Home Depot. The nice thing about it is that you apply it, wait five to ten minutes and gently wipe it off. It takes the grime with it and leaves lettering. Keep it up until the surface is clean and your rag isn't lifting up any nasty yellow anymore. You still have to be careful, if you rub too much or apply too much or leave it on too long it will lift lettering, but it's the most forgiving product I've come across in that respect. I was pretty lucky with this one as it hadn't been smoked around that much.
For the aluminum tube covers I used Mothers metal polish. They transform from dull grey to almost a mirror finish without too much effort. I went a little nuts with the Mothers and polished as much of the steel as I could, like the tuning pot cover (while trying to keep the stickers), the sides of the chassis, and the aluminum capacitor cans. This album shows a before and after.
I removed the face panel, soaked it in Zep first and then used Blue Magic Quick Shine metal polish. I also used Zep on the back but didn't do much else since there's so much lettering around all of the connections that I didn't want to remove it. I soaked the knobs in Zep, used Brasso to shine up the caps, and then used a paper towels and a small stiff brush to get all of the Brasso out of the plastic grooves. I was lucky with the dial glass, it wasn't dirty enough that it need to be removed, I just used Zep and then Windex on the front. If you do remove it, be very careful with the lettering, it comes off easily... I'd only use a damp cloth.
After I fired it up I found I had some dirty switch pots, so I squirted them with a little Deoxit and worked them back and forth. I also used a little clock oil on the pots.
I bought a kit from this guy to replace components. There are plenty of forums (I prefer audiokarma.org) with information and willing members to assist if you want to do it yourself, but the kit takes a bit of the guess work out of it. My album shows everything that was replaced. Basically, it's every capacitor that could go bad and affect the sound, modifying the de-emphasis to modern standard, lowering the voltage (These fishers run crazy hot and eat output tubes at their original voltage), and making it a little safer to operate.
I had to replace the plastic antenna straps which had crumbled from age, one of the brass knob caps that was missing, 3 out of the 4 lightbulbs, and 9 tubes.
I then put the tubes back in and brought it slowly up on a variac for about 3 or 4 hours to reform the can caps. I still have some polishing work on it, but it's pretty much done and sounds great.
Have you powered up your 500B? Is it complete? Pictures?
Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:
I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
-Pressure Washer
-Foam Cannon
-Detailing brushes
-Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
-ETC
I always keep some bug and tar cleaner w/ a microfiber towel in the trunk for inevitable bird poop. Does a pretty good job of removal even if it has been on there for a couple days.
Recommended http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII
I use this stuff - https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510849021&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nu+finish&amp;dpID=41TQElpWDtL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
But whatever you have is probably fine. I don't care for spray on, if you over-spray and get it on the floor, you are going to slip and hurt yourself. Wipe it on, let it sit for a bit, wipe excess off.
When I get my Impreza in a month and a half, I plan on giving it a coat of wax. Seems like a good idea. I've heard this wax is good...
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cSPAybN24F9GC
Not sure what else, I'm looking for recommendations too.
3M Adhesive remover
Best polish product ever
Completely removes any stains and tarnishes, and leaves a sparkling shine with absolutely zero abrasion. This container has lasted me for over a year. Just rip a little off and rub away!
http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A
You can get this stuff at Walmart/Autozone. I've been using it for 10+ years.
If you want to make it shiny as can be, you might hit the body with some Nevr-Dull.
i use never dull. they sell it at any autoparts store. it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464995628&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=never+dull
NEVR-DULL can be found in the car care section of walmart, or autoparts stores
This? http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
Eagle One E301131001 Original Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish for all Metals, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNBI1A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
It looks like the rust ate through the plating so it'll take a bit of effort to make it look like new. You could use a rust remover like whink then an all purpose metal polish like eagle one never dull to make it spiffy.
You just need to polish the frets. And change those strings. Yikes. :)
Get some Eagle One Nevr-Dull from your local auto parts store. I picked some up from PepBoys recently.
Put tape on the fretboard right up to the edge of the frets to protect the wood. Then scrub the frets with Nevr-Dull. Rinse and repeat.
Once you're done, remove the frets and wipe down the fretboard with a clean cloth and naptha. You just want to get any loose bits and gunk off.
Put some graphite in the nut and saddle slots.
Toss a little bit of mineral oil on the fretboard and restring that puppy.
Like the title says, between my final semester of college, moving and starting a new job, I haven't had the time to give my KM a good cleaning. For those interested in the process, here goes:
I started by disassembling the entire thing. The coal tray, grommets and any other removable pieces got a bath in hot water and dish soap. The stem was scrubbed with a brush soaked in the soapy water, and left to soak for a few minutes. The soap worked to loosen any built up grease and other shit inside. If you've never done this, do it, its disgusting the stuff that comes out. After the good soak, I ran water down the stem and passed some paper towels through. If you've ever cleaned a gun, its basically the same thing. The base got a good soaking in plain old hot water and was scrubbed inside with a brush and wiped clean on the outside. I don't recommend the soap on the base as its a bitch to get out.
For the actual polishing, I used Eagle One Never Dull (http://amzn.com/B000CNBI1A). Lay down a towel, grab a wad and get to work. I like to rest the bottom of the stem on my foot and spin the whole stem while I hold the wadding to it. As you work, the wadding will turn gray as it removes the tarnishing. As it gets grayer or starts falling apart, just grab some more. Once you've hit the whole thing, repeat the process but with a dry microfiber towel. At this point, you're done, or you can continue repeating the process until you're satisfied! This stuff is fairly harsh, so don't use it in a poorly vented room and I recommend washing your hands thoroughly when you're done.
Enjoy!
I have this issue on my '17 SV650, it goes away after a good cleaning.
Pick up a grunge brush and some chain wax or equivalent.
I do this after every bike wash.
Also check the chain while you have your weight on the bike.
Maxima 74920 Chain Wax - 13.5 oz. Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TZ1RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RPERDbGJEH1W8
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TZ1RU?pc_redir=1404538634&amp;robot_redir=1
Try these, just wear nitrile gloves while doing it. Once you’ve polished them to your liking, simply put the cloth back in the pouch & wipe the watch with a microfiber cloth.
Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths, I've had luck with them for minor scratches, any deep scratches would probably need to be taken to a professional. Also the cloths only work on the glossy portions of the watch, the brushed/satin portions such as the sides of the watch cannot be polished off with the cloth otherwise you'll rub off the finish, again a professional should be able to polish and resurface such areas.
Not sure if professionals work on smartwatches though as I've never tried asking, and it might cost more than it's worth considering the diminishing value of old smartwatches. ($100 - $200 for a professional's service on the upper end, and around $50 for minor jobs)
Have you tried http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017H3PIO?pc_redir=1411576924&amp;robot_redir=1
Cape Cod cleaning cloths? It's pretty easy and quick to get a decent shine on brass mods.
It's pretty much the same stuff as Ultimate Quick Wax, just in bulk packaging.
I'm a fan. I don't really think it's the best but it's very good and inexpensive. Optimum spray wax is very good as well, but it's pricier.
I use Blackfire spray wax, only because I got it in their full paint correction kit, but I bet Meguiars will have one. Its pretty unanimous that Meguiars has good products for the home detailer. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2
Hmm yea those soaps dont seem to be wax stripping.
You can do the ceramic coating yourself for $100 if you have the time, its fairly easy to do just have to follow the instructions. I myself am about to do a coating in preparation for the Northern winter.
A lot of people use C2V3 or CQuartz as their go to.
Thanks for the reply!
Is the D156 the same as this product from meguiars? Have you used that one? I only ask because I've seen that one readily available on the shelf of my local autozone, meaning I wouldn't have to wait days for it to ship before I got to try it out
Amazon has the big bottle of M205 for $18
It depends on how aggressive you were with this "magic eraser". You say it dulled the surface rather than scratched it, which indicates that the scratches are very fine and very shallow. This should be easily repairable by just polishing it out with a very fine grade polishing compound. M205 is a popular choice. You can find it on Amazon or in most hardware/auto stores. You can (and should) post in /r/autodetailing if you want more responses.
You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.
Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.
Shopping List:
Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q
Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1
Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V
Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ
Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT
Wax - Your preference
Here’s the guide:
1 – Tool Prep
Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.
2 – Wash
Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.
3 – Clay Bar
Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.
4 – Compound Buffing
Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.
5 – Inspection
Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.
6 – Polish Buffing
Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.
7 – Inspection
Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.
8 – Wax
Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.
oh boy now you are getting in detailing! what your going to need is meguiars 205 finish polish, a DA polisher. and a lake country orange cutting pad and a backing pad (theres one that comes with the harbor freight one, but its considered trash)
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC?keywords=meguairs+205&amp;qid=1536994013&amp;sr=8-1&amp;ref=sr_1_1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use Meguiar's M105 then M205 on my headlights.
50% off 32oz M205 polish on Amazon!
Yeah I got confused, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNXC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 that is what I ended up buying, so it was correct to use this right? It did not get rid of the swirls at all however, should I try M105 or something, not sure what heavy cuts is.
I've gotta say, that's less than encouraging. The only folks I know that regularly use both a rotary and 3M products are body shops or car dealers. And they are not generally known for being great detailers. 3M products actually kind of suck compared to more modern options.
As someone else mentioned, the Meguiar's M105 and M205 would both be good products (M105 is a first-step, more abrasive polish, M205 a finishing polish to take out any marring left by M105). You can get 8oz bottles on Amazon for about $10/ea. They're easier to work with, dust SIGNIFICANTLY less, and work better than the 3M products. Plus, you can get them in 8oz bottles vs. 32oz bottles.
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/
You don't rinse off glazed wax. You wipe it off with about 4 or 5 microfiber cloths and if any dried that you discovered later, some quick detailing acrylic spritz and a microfiber rag will remove it.
I used to own a 16 year old black volvo. It looked like this.
http://i.imgur.com/5gFUa.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/vV9UrIf.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ohPul7n.jpg
The trick to black cars (or really any color) is that it's not simply a matter of washing and then wiping on some wax and wiping the glazed wax off. It doesn't work that way.
It should go without saying, all of this should be done with paint that is cool to the touch. Do not do anything in direct sunlight unless it's cold outside. You do not want to be working with warm/hot paint.
Anyways, your wash mitt doesn't remove the dirt that is in the microscopic pores of the clear coat. You have to use paint cleaning claybar and a claybar lubricant spray to get that. I really like the pinnacle clay.
Once you go over the car with the clay, depending on the condition of the clearcoat (major scratches or minor swirls) you need to use an orbital buffer with the appropriate softness polishing pads and more or less gritty polishing compound. This will smooth out swirl marks and remove any oxidized rain drop marks and stuff like that.
Don't be afraid of damaging your paint/clear coat. Unless you get a heavy cutting compound for deep scratch removal, the orbital buffer and sponge pads can't damage it. If your paint is in pretty good shape (minor swirls) Meguiars ultra finish polish should be all you need and works really well and isn't super expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMJP4Q/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Once that's done, you can use either a nice caranuba wax or a polymer acrylic sealant. I really like the Werkstat Jett Acrylic because it doesn't dry all thick and cakey and hard to remove.
Also, one trick I use is to avoid the dried wax/acrylic on plastic molding and trim pieces is to use blue painters tape on the edges. Tape off the badges, logos, etc. Getting dried wax off injection molded plastic can be a pain.
Wax will typically only last about 3 months and acrylic will last 6 or more months. Keeping the car in a garage and limiting exposure to the elements can prolong this. You can apply wax first and then a coat or two of acrylic if you want.
After each wash, use something like blackfire wet diamond or sonus acrylic spritz (I've used and enjoy both) to help preserve the acrylic sealant.
One thing worth noting is that when you wash the car just before you plan to polish/wax, use dish washing liquid as it will efficiently strip off any remaining wax/sealant left on the clear coat.
This is just the tip of the iceberg and car detailing is a very deep rabbit hole but doesn't HAVE to be expensive. A good polisher like a porter cable or griot's garage random buffer is a great investment and much cheaper these days than what they used to be. If you decide to get one, the cobra cross groove pads are great and you will need about 4 of them as they will collect a lot of dirt during the process of polishing so use one per side of the car.
I use this on my bike.
Honda Spray is the shit.
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
I use meguirs nxt tech wax 2.0 and turtle wax and dry in between applications
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0
Two bucket wash with Meguiars Gold Class Soap, then a quick wax with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax. Used Invisible Glass for all glass.
The community here will tell you to throw that Turtle Wax in the trash and get something else. People seem to like this stuff for an OTC product, although I've never personally used it. Make sure you're doing your best to get everything off the paint\clear coat before you apply a wax. This means a nanoskin wash or clay bar. Personally I'd go with Collinite 845 or another sealant type. General rule of applying a wax is to work in lines, not circles (this helps reduce swirl marks). Let it dry to a haze and buff with a high pile MF towel that you precondition with a little spray wax\quick detailer to add some lubrication. Smile as you run your finger across that smooth finish and crack open a cold one :)
I use Meguiar's Nxt Generation Tech Wax. It's what I've used since ~2003.
Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387042&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=meguiars+leather
Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387140&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash
For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387101&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0
Dash protectant, I use 303.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495387193&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=303+protectant
Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.
Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.
After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.
I own these 2 waxes/sealants, which would be better for winter?
NXT 2.0 Tech Wax
Duragloss 105
This is the link to the one I got costs a lot less. Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W.vKAbHYWEWSK
And here's the exact lens cleaner spray. Set of 2 Carl Zeiss Lens Cleaning Spray 2oz - 60ml Travel Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFD6KAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bwKAbYQA3VMW
A couple things that I've read here that I want to clear up. The fresnal ridges are not on the side of the lens that you look through, they are on the other side so you're not sanding that down you're sanding down a side that is supposed to be smooth. If the scratches on your lens are not visible in the hmd then obviously you don't *need to do anything, unless you're like me and just can't stand scratches.
Proceed with caution but a pro tip - it doesn't matter. You'll be happier after the scratches are gone. Also get yourself a small thumb sized led flashlight. You can hold it in near the lenses to better see the scratches. Enjoy the clarity...
So this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E
Polishing sheets
www.amazon.com/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oJMttb14VTZ9R
Simichrome
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_jKMttb1EX6ENW
Renaissance Wax Polish 65ml
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AJWN62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RKMttb1YM5YXC
arnauba Wax
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NMMttb1MPHYVW
And if you really want it to shine, the steel wool + [simichrome] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ejWgub1RK0D7Z) . It's a metal polish and works amazing. Plus makes it for easier cleaning on the next application. A little bit goes a long way.
No, there is no one product that is going to do it all for you - Especially not over an extended period of time. Most of the time I use either FrogLube, or Ray's Gun Wax on the outside of my EDC Glocks. Sometimes, and for shorter time periods, I'll use either Break-Free, Ballistol, or pharmaceutical grade Mineral Oil. For, 'safe queens' that go untouched for extended lengths of time I like to use: FrogLube, Ray's Gun Wax, or Sentry Solutions, 'Tuf-Glide'.
I always clean my EDC Glock bores with a brush, patch, and either of these chemically identical products: Flitz Metal Polish, Simichrome Metal Polish, or Iosso Bore Cleaner. (Be careful with the last two products on the outside of a blued gun - OK!) Afterwards I'll run an isopropyl alcohol soaked patch through the bore, and then final coat it with Sentry Solutions, 'Smooth-Kote'.
On Glock's well know internal lubrication points I like to use one drop of Lucas Gun Oil which seems to have an affinity for metal and stays put very well.
Try Simichrome. I found that it works great on flat areas on silver. Use a soft cloth and the compound.
Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S2d8CbHMHRMM5
They one on the left is raw aluminum, and the two stacked up are nickel. I did a titanium that just arrived last week with the same polish as well, but it didn't seem to do much for that material, but it totally blasts out nickel and aluminum. :)
I use Semichrome polish
https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525812594&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=simichrome+polish
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=asc_df_B00068GEJM55768446/?tag=googshopuk-21&amp;creative=22110&amp;creativeASIN=B00068GEJM&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=205312686904&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=11474337088846749024&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9046811&amp;hvtargid=pla-404900476440&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
Mother's Aluminum Polish has worked wonders for my aluminum Cannondale. Just wipe some on a cloth and swab it around. The cloth will be black after awhile because it gets so much grime off.
I can polish aluminum to a mirror surface with that stuff
Mother's Mag Polish on a Dremel with the Jewelry cleaning attachments.
Mothers
Polishing Kit
I know a lot of people use a basic metal polish like this
I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.
I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.
Yup that’s exactly what i used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gb4kDbS54XQ5W
This stuff is amazing!
If this is aluminum go with this one. One of my favorite products!
They also have mag/aluminum wheel polish for almost half off. I really recommend this stuff. I have cheap aluminum american racing wheels on my jeep and this stuff makes them look real good.
http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=lp_2596858011_1_16?srs=2596858011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393773460&amp;sr=8-16
On my personal vehicle i clean them with soap and water. Then i use either a powerball or a Cotton buffing pad with Mothers mag polish. Take your time and it will look amazing.
I would give this a try
Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish works well too. I use it all the time for my mods and other assorted things.
Your mother usually does a good job cleaning my blow holes
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Wash/Decontamination
Wheels/Tires
Compounding/Polishing
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Interior/Glass Cleaners
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
They are called finger pump oil cans. Thanks for making me look that up!
First thing I did was scrub it down with some 000 steel wool and Goo Gone. I've never honestly seen anyone else use this combination but it works amazing on aluminum, steel, plated metals and tons of other stuff.
After I got all of the grim off I wiped it down with some all purpose cleaner.
Next I put a buffing ball on my drill and used some Mothers Aluminum polish. After a few pases with the mothers I cleaned off the ball, and finished out with some Blue Magic 400. The Mothers polish has a small amount of abrasive which helped smooth out what the steel wool did and the Blue Magic 400 has no abrasive and leaves a longer lasting protective coat then the Mothers. I have found you can make just about anything look new with this quick and easy method. Check out how nice it cleaned up the shocks on my bike Album.
http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382723868&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mags+aluminum+polish they sell it at walmart, it won't make it like it was out of the box but it can get it shiny again but be prepared to be at it for awhile. Imo just leave it be
When it's time to polish the metal, head to your local version of Walmart or Amazon and pick up some aluminum polish. I use Mother's. It's strong enough to work on the metals harmonicas use, but also pretty gentle. Just rub that on and if your cloth starts going black it's working. Get that elbow grease going and every few minutes wipe it off so you can see your progress. Repeat until fine scratches are gone and it's shiny new.
If you have deeper scratches, then you'll need to use sandpaper in increasingly finer grades first. 120 -> 220 -> 400 -> 1000 -> aluminum polish will take a seriously messed up cover plate to shiny new in about 15 minutes total. It's pretty easy to do.
This pack of sandpaperwill do hundreds of harps
Mother's polish
Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_T.uHzbMVDV4PZ plus a lil’ elbow grease
Ok, I was having a TON of problems with adhesion with PLA, and a fair deal of issues with PETG on the textured sheet. I tried it all: Lower Z, 99% alcohol, dish soap, increased bed temp. Everything was coming loose after a few layers, or warping (or warping worse with the higher bed temp). It would still warp with a 2cm brim.
I was seriously considering tossing the textured sheet because it was completely useless for me, so I tried a more drastic approach. I figured that acetone was risking chemically changing the surface (which is why they warn against it), so I decided instead to physically change the surface.
I got some "Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish" and softly polished one side of the textured sheet. This stuff has an extremely fine grit in it (aluminum oxide), and it scuffed/polished the top layer of the powder coat. I didn't polish too hard, I didn't want to change the look or texture of the sheet. After that, I washed the surface thoroughly with dish soap, dried it with towels, did a pass with the 99% alcohol, then heated the bet to 80c for a few min.
The difference was night and day. PLA sticks incredibly well (nozzle 200c, bed 50c), but still easily pops off with a light bend of the sheet. It didn't change the surface texture of the sheet at all, you still get that nice textured finish. I haven't tested PETG on it yet, but considering how well the PLA sticks, I'll only want to only do small test parts first until I have confidence that the bigger parts will actually pop off (I still have the reverse side of the sheet for PETG in case this polished side works too well). I've accumulated about 50h of printing on the polished textured sheet now without issue.
WARNING: Mothers contains petroleum distillates. I'm not a chemist, but I may have in the end actually chemically changed my textured sheet anyways (similar to what using acetone would have done). I don't know if there will be long term issues with this method, but in my case, I at least turned a useless textured sheet into something I can actually use for a bit.
This is the stuff I used: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y
Thank you. Is this the one?
Mother's 05101 Mag and Aluminum Polished Metal, 283 g https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CPZQCb0V7JHCW
I use mother's aluminum polish on my exhaust tips. It works great!
Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e84-AbXQ7GWW2
You can use either of these I just use the meguiars gold class because I got Collinite and didn't know what to do with the leftover carnauba wax
Rain-X Glass Treatment Trigger - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVRZ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_USbHxbVN12JFV
Meguiar's G7014J Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lTbHxbZGBRHHM
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Class-Carnauba-Premium-Paste/dp/B0009IQXCM?ref_=ast_sto_dp
I've had really good experiences with this compared to turtle wax and mothers. haven't really tried anything else!
I use Meguairs Gold Class
???
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=psdc_15718371_t3_B0009IQX6I
I just looked it up since I'm not familiar with it. I much prefer the paste type wax than liquid spray. The Car Guys Hybrid Wax description shows it's safe for windows too. A real wax should never be put on windows. If it's safe for windows, then it's not really a good barrier since it can be wiped off too easy and the protection layer is extremely thin.
Try using a real paste wax. I've personally used either Mothers or Meguires paste wax with great results. Stay away from combo pastes (cleaner wax). If your car needs a good cleaning (paint is rough when you touch it), use a clay bar before waxing.
Very basic question, but has anybody ever compared the two most common paste waxes?
Mother's California Gold Carnauba vs. Meguiar's Gold Class Carnauba Plus
I'm going to use the Mother's first, but I don't feel like buying the other until I totally use up the first can.
Looks like bird shit. Try some bug and tar remover with a microfiber cloth.
I used this and followed the directions on the bottle of leaving it on for one minute.
I'll look for the remover you linked soon and hope that works, and if not, I'll try a clay bar. Thanks for your help!
You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.
Ugh, WD40? Guess you hate your paint. You should be using a bug and tar remover that's safe for car paint.
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII
This is a must have. Every car I've debadged looks perfect after using just a little bit of this.
>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.
Yep.
I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.
I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.
Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.
yep i use a rotary buffer to buff, then [NuFinish] (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408709206&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=nu+finish) to polish. I'm sure any good polish will work, but that's what i use. and i messed up my comment above. You buff, THEN polish.
Also, if you don't have a spray gun, you can use a 2k bomb clear can not be found in stores. it's does better than a normal spray can of clear coat. a normal spray can probably wouldn't look too bad, but the 2k stuff will do better. the 2k can has a hardener that makes the lens much more UV resistant to fading. Since you seem like you are going to try this: let the clear coats sit and dry a day, then run that over with a 2k sandpaper before you buff then polish it.
Use a squirt of Nu Finish in your tumbler for each load you do. It'll help polish the brass better than just the lizard bedding will. Should be readily available at your local Wal-Mart, too.
Personally I avoid anything wax based. I refer to used the petroleum based Nu Finish because it doesn't leave residue like wax, and it goes on and comes off easy. I started using it on my airplanes and have since found it is good for cars, to, even plastic trim.
Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.
EDIT: Amazon link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=Nu+Finish&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41TQElpWDtL&amp;ref=plSrch
You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.
And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!
I've used adhesive remover spray. The black gunk melted right off without scrubbing. I think it's this stuff.
Thanks I will give that a try. I was also looking at 3M 03618 Adhesive remover. Does anyone have any experience with this or similar products? I'm mostly worried about it damaging the plastic.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W
I use 3M adhesive remover for this kind of thing. My wheels have adhesive tape from previous balancing weights. This stuff removed them fairly easily. I needed several applications and had to let it dwell for a few minutes each time. But it removes sticky stuff very well. If you use this, test on a small area first to make sure it's safe.
It's so strange you posted this question, because I have a similar problem. A brand new car I just bought has finger smear marks on the edges of the back window. Ammonia based glass cleaner had no effect. It appears to be some kind of dried adhesive, similar to super glue. I'm guessing it's what was used to glue the back window on and the idiots at the factory weren't careful. It's right around the defroster grid near the edge. If it was on the outside, I'd be able to use a razor blade. Unfortunately, the dealership I bought the car from is in another state. The service manager suggested 3M Adhesive Remover, but there are various part numbers to confuse me:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536818222&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-38983-General-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B004EBNTYK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536818222&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B0002NUO6K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536818222&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
I contacted 3M about this twice and and this was their only response:
"We’re uncertain as to what the residue Is but it will likely work. If used properly I wouldn’t expect any harm to come from trying it. Use nitrile gloves: Spray it onto a clean detailing cloth and use it to remove the adhesive.
Any of the part numbers they mention should work, these vary due to package size options and volatile organic compound restrictions."
The second part to their answer doesn't make sense to me, and I'm not sure what the qualifications were of the person who responded. I responded by asking which one was the least aggressive and didn't get a response.
3M Adhesive Remover. You want some good air circulation when using this stuff though.
I will be removing a lot of adhesive residue from a vehicle early next week. I plan on using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and I'll report back with how it works.
It's pretty simple, park the car outside on a warm day 75F or warmer then using a blow dryer on high heat up the badge and the fender near the badge until it's hot to the touch. Using dental floss or a Luxe de-badge kit the badge slowly work it off.
&#x200B;
You can easily clear the area of leftover adhesive with 3M adhesive remover, then Clean the whole area with 70% or higher rubbing alcohol. Finally use a clay bar included on the Luxe de-badge kit or can be purchased from most auto stores, this will remove any contaminants that will cause imperfections in the decal.
&#x200B;
When applying the decal you will need to follow the instructions based on the brand you purchase. Some decals have air release which will be a DRY apply, while others require an application fluid (NOT SPRY WAX!!!!) this fluid is usually proper mixture water, alcohol and a mild detergent.
&#x200B;
Hope that helps
Guy at a track day clued me into this stuff a few years back - Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish.
Removes everything without hard scrubbing, leaves a protective coating that makes it so you can wipe daily carbon buildup away with a dry rag.
Fucking amazing, all four chrome tips of my 2013 WRX are still stainless/spotless after seven years.
Pro-tip, wad the wadding up in a rag or wear gloves to apply it. The chems in that stuff will seep into your skin very easily.
Eagle One "Never Dull" and a clean terry cloth or similar rag-type article of cloth. 30 seconds and some elbow grease and it will be all gone.
Link: [https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A]
I've had good luck with Nevr-Dull: http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A
It's slightly pitted so it may never be great again. However Eagle One Never Dull, any parts store will have it, will shine it up. Rub it on and polish it up, then wipe off with clean rag. Enjoy.
http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A
I've used this on a lot of non automotive related (reason I bought it in first place) pieces before with good results.https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-E301131001-Original-Nevr-Dull/dp/B000CNBI1A
As for the upholstery part, you might need to take that to an upholstery guy, some of that stuff is rather tricky. I think once you rip the fabric off you might have hard time getting another fabric on without a specialized sewing machine.
haha I always love parking next to another GTI. Even better when I return to my car to find another one parked next to it :]
I also recommend some Nevr Dull to help keep your exhaust tips shiny https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A :P
It happens. I haven't used it myself yet, but Eagle One - Never Dull is supposed to make an easy(er) time of cleaning it up.
You should use this on all the luggage hardware.
It will make an incredible difference. I use it on old bicycles.
I pretty sure they are aluminum maybe billet but that is a stretch. I would use Eagle One Never Dull. That shit works on everything like a charm!
Thanks. I went with this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A since it said safe on all metal. Worked really well. If I know for sure it was stainless I was going to go at it with some 0000 steel wool. I read that it's a bad idea to use that on chromed metal.
Nevr-Dull works pretty good, but I agree many others, I like the patina.
Those rust spots/chips on the deadbolt, no way to get rid of those without replacing the lock.
Price isn't so important, last year I purchased this from my local bike shop for $14 after looking up reviews on it. Just make sure its a wax, so that it stays on the chain and reduces friction, not a liquid that flings off. I clean and lube my chain a ton and I still have more than half a can left after 2 summers of riding.
Try some chain wax spray, that stuff sticks to the chain very nicely.
Definitely something I've considered. But I really like the smell of the oil in a spraycan that I use....
I think upgrading my headlights to HID projectors is going to be my next project when I can scrape together the money.
Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.
List of everything I used:
Think thats everything. Enjoy!!
https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474768803&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cape+cod+polish
My Angels Birkin pins also were very tarnished. I used tiny Cape cod polishing cloth and it lightened a bit, but not perfect like my UB’s Kelly pins. Angel’s bags often have tarnished pins unfortunately.
Just this?
https://www.amazon.ca/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO
I’ll just wipe it on the clasp? Anything that can go bad with this?
If you are trying to remove smudges/scratches - pick up a high quality microfiber and I honestly use glasses lens cleaner. You need liquid for lubrication so you aren't "rubbing" the surface, but more "buffing" because the liquid is doing all the cleaning/emulsifying. Spray onto the cloth then apply to the watch
Lens cleaner works great for removing oils and such, crystal or metal doesn't seem to matter. Most lens cleaner is designed to be safe for AR coatings
&#x200B;
After that, you can use some metal polish or polishing cloths to help level the area around the scratch to "remove" the scratch.
https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO
&#x200B;
Note: that you can't really remove a scratch, but you can level the surrounding area so the scratch doesn't exist any more.
Also be very careful when you are using polishing cloths or compound - you don't want to affect any brushed areas or it will change the finish. I don't have too much issue with that personally, just need to be careful.
&#x200B;
http://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO
These will be your best friends. They're great for mostly everything but the deep deep nicks. Take off your band from the watch, turn off the watch, put on gloves scrub away, rinse. I do it about once a month and mine looks brand new each time.
It won't take it all the way off but it'll look better if you use a cape cod cloth on it.
Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqAcBbJQQBC9N
Any competent watchmaker could polish that out as well.
As far as too deep.... It all comes down to how much surrounding metal you want to loose. Usually if your fingernail catches good on it, it won't come out unless you really polish the hell out of it.
For the polished bezel - Cape Cod Polishing Cloth...
For the brushed parts, a set of 3M papers...
Nothing will 100% match a factory finish, but those are the easiest things for most people to do at home - and if you’re patient and work slowly/carefully you should get close.
Brushed area is harder to match, so make sure you work somewhere stable and with a steady hand using the 3M papers. One direction only...etc. Hardest part to “freehand” would probably be the circular brushing on the caseback.
wtc CapeCod cloth - This one? https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525727483&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cape+cod+cloth
Whoops - I purchased this guy yesterday to try it out: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0017H3PIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But if I end up liking it, I will get the full tin, as you say.
I guess what I've been doing when I polish is applying the polishing compound on the cloth disk, and giving up instantly as soon as I see that it is turning my pieces grey and cloudy. I'll give it a bit longer this time. Thanks for your reply! All the best.
If you're too lazy to even buy the Meguiar's ultimate wax, you can skip the liquid application using a foam pad and try Meguiar's ultimate quik wax. It probably wont give as great as a result as the normal liquid wax but you can apply it quickly with a MF towel.
Popping back in here, I use this stuff for wax: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2
Where does that fall in terms of longevity?
I've been using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax for the longest time. Can be found on Amazon, or at Target/Walmart. Basically, anywhere that sells car accessories/parts.
Do note that spray waxes are best applied often. They do not last anywhere near as long as traditional waxes/sealants do. The main advantage is that spray waxes are quick and easy to apply and can be done in minutes, rather than an hour (or more).
Alternatively, consider waterless wax + wax solutions. Can help you keep your car clean in between your regular washes. Especially helps to keep your front bumper and hood clean from debris you accumulate daily.
I've used Meguiar's Quik Wax on my car and even after washing it a couple times, water still beads up a bit. The bit of shine benefit is gone, and the beading isn't as strong as fresh (still WAY better than none). But it's clearly beading after a few months.
If the products are related, it's probably worth trying out.
Unless you can bang out that from the back there's no hope to straighten it with home tools. It can be done from the outside with a stud welder + puller (video) but this is something best left to pros. It's much easier to replace the door for ~$200-500 at a junk yard, search car-part.com -- thats what my insurance did for a similar issue, came out to almost a thousand bucks at the body shop when you add the paint and labor on. But if you do it yourself you might be able to just get one in the right color and not paint it.
If you just want to fix the paint, just do the touch up. Call your dealer to get a small jar in the right color. You can fix the other less deep scratches with polish (heavy cut, light cut).
Also check this channel out if you are interested in how professionals do it: https://www.youtube.com/user/tussik01/videos
Hi, I'm really new to detailing so can you explain what you did exactly? I googled your terms and got these.
http://www.detailedimage.com/Meguiars-M43/Ultra-Cut-Compound-M105-P388/32-oz-S1/
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
They are both polishes, right? Those sure are expensive..And you need a orange pad? A white pad? I see those pads in the first link I posted, detailedimage..The total cost for a newbie to do this is like around $60-70? Damn..I might have to live with the few scratches. Trying to invest in buckets and the whole newbie starter kit.
Torq22DDA: Torq22dD
Pads: ChemicalGuys orange then white for finish
Compound: Meguiar's M205
Ceramic Coat: Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light (didn’t use the exo to humid for application)
Sealant: Gtechniq C2 Liquid Crystal v3
Microfiber: Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (do not skimp out on your MF!)
Sorry, I called it the wrong name. It's Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish. My plan was to use M105 OR M205 to polish, and NXT to wax. In between those two steps I was told I could use Isopropyl Alcohol. I don't know if this is true or not but that's definitely a cheaper option, lol.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B0002UQAM0
Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.
> Wheel
Wheel soap:
Wheel cleaner:
Tire dressing:
Wheel wax:
> Paint
Paint soap:
Paint soap addition:
Leaf blower:
Clay bar:
Dual action polisher:
Backing plate:
Pad:
Compound:
Polish:
Sealant/wax:
> Interior
Carpet cleaner:
Dashboard cleaner:
Leather cleaner:
Leather conditioner:
Glass cleaner:
There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
> Other Concerns
I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.
I was looking at this stuff but I have no idea if it'll work for this type of damage.
How many passes do you do per section with your random orbital?
In my situation, I've got a car with spiderweb swirls on the paint. They cover a lot of paint but are very light scratches; they can only be seen in direct sunlight.
I have used these following products on my swirls but it seems that they did absolutely nothing to the paint or the scratches.
meguiar's buffing pad
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UQAXY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01
meguiar's m105
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMGDHI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i07
Do you have different suggestions for products or am I most likely using incorrect technique?
Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.
The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.
&#x200B;
Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.
&#x200B;
I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.
&#x200B;
Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..
&#x200B;
Thank you for any and all feedback!
Honda Pro Polish
.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
Sorry, linked the wrong one. A little goes a long way - I ride year round and only go through 2 of these full size cans:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FSEJZA/
Try this stuff https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
My mechanic uses it to clean everything off of everything.
If the paint/plastic is in good condition-
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_0.XpDbN62H181
If the clearcoat has some surface rubbing "haze" you might need to clean it up before wax.
Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbYpDbKCBNB2M
Just remember wax more often in summer heat, and dont over polish, because its basically sanding down surface to smooth out problems.
I used Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4. And thanks for the positive thoughts!
Curious, is this that what you guys are talking about? I wrench on my own cars but I’m such a noob when it comes to detailing lol
Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qxNWCb7PCWQ18
Opinion: I think this at 1/4 of the price will do almost an identical job to the ammo http://www.amazon.com/S100-13700W-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000GZQP08/
These carnauba waxes will not last long... especially in heat.
-
Instead of the gold, go with the ultimate like the other dude said, AMAZING wax for the price:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/
This stuff will last a long time. great beading.
I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.
As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.
Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.
I use Meguiar's Ultimate Wax
Reviews are good:
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=pd_sim_auto_16
Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U
Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO
And would both work while using clay for decontamination?
Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U
Is that what your talking about? Sorry if I'm sounding dumb, i really don't know anything about this kind of stuff.
Newbie here
Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.
Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?
EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.
Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?
Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant
Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax
Just purchased my 2nd grit guard today, in fact! Going to be big ballin with a three bucket system and try a rinseless wash in between actual cleanings which makes me extremely nervous, but everyone swears by it. My car's 7 years old and at 122k miles, so I'm beyond obsessing over every speck, thankfully. Definitely not doing it on a filthy car, though.
You can take paint transfer off your car with some polish and an applicator pad:
Polish: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G19220-Ultimate-Polish-fluid_ounces/dp/B004HCOE8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=meguiars%2Bpolish&qid=1556888366&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1
Applicator: https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B001GJ9JV0/ref=sr_1_3?crid=TF14W8WDIISK&keywords=polish%2Bapplicator&qid=1556888486&s=gateway&sprefix=polish%2Bappl%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-3&th=1
I've used this method before, works great. Just remember to clean the area before and after, and consider adding some wax after.
Here is the desktop version of your link
I definitely don't use machine or semiDIY washes like this. I wash with this soap and do a hand wash every week or so.
Edit: Typos.
>Best seat covers?
Get permaplate option, this will cover external and interior. Enjoy the seats without seat covers, I did put a seat cover so the baby car seat was on the cover.
>Best dash cams?
I really want this dash cam Blackvue DR590, saving up for one.
>Charging cable ok in weather?
I have been doing research on Chargepoint level 2 home charger. Its weather proof and if you install the 220v 32A version you can charge your car in 2 hours.
>Battery efficiency on the highway?
I only had my Prius Prime for a week now, hybrid works well. Drive in B mode and plan out your trips so you can charge at your destination. For example, we started to go to Target because they have a Chargepoint station. We shop for about 2 hours and by the time we get back to the car is fully charged. We can do all of our shopping using EV only.
>Toyota service centers only?
I got the extended maintenance plan so yes for me only Toyota service.
>Get that extended warranty or no?
I got the 7 year extended maintenance because I already know how much the dealer ship will charge for normal maintenance. I just want to have the peace of mind knowing everything is covered and did not want to deal is any issues. Plus if you get it during purchase I believe its at a bigger discount. Because I sign up for it the dealer ship gave me LoJack for free and 72 month financing 0 APR.
>Any reassurance that I made the right choice not waiting for the 2018?
I was thinking the something, at the moment you have a big advantage because they are trying to sell off the rest of the 2017 to make room for the 2018 models. I want to say you have more power to haggle, for example I was able to get 72 month 0 APR financing, free LoJack and $3000 off the asking price because I mention the local special and because I was prior military.
Additional accessories:
Black License Plate Frame
Auto Document Case
Neck Pillow
No Rinse Wash & Wax
Congratulation on the new car!
I use Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax. Take a bucket with two gallons of water, add a cap full of this stuff, soak 4-5 microfiber towels and wipe all the grime off. Fold each microfiber into quarters and flip through the sides once they get dirty. If its really dirty or has some caked on grime, I'll fill a spray bottle with a mixture of the stuff and pre-treat the area. Dry with a dry microfiber. Cleans great, leaves a nice layer of wax, and has high lubricity so there is a lower risk of swirling up your paint.
I agree with /u/Pinkman2012. Don't get the Eagle One stuff though. I've used it in the past, and at least for me, it was weirdly hard to remove. I REALLY like D156. That stuff is fantastic. Save some money and get the gallon. Once you use it once, you'll use it a LOT because of how great it is.
http://amzn.com/B005JPJMI2
Here it is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JPJMI2?pc_redir=1398611072&amp;amp;robot_redir=1
Yes. It's the same stuff.
D156 is the "pro" version of the ultimate spray wax.
If you like the Quik Detailer then check out their Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax. Another user on here gave me a tip to try using the X-Press in place of the QD so I'm just passing it on. Turned out to be the best last-step product I've ever used, hands down. I just spray it on and wipe off with a fresh microfiber after I dry my car and it leaves a nice wet looking mirror finish that beads water like a fresh wax. Meguiars says it renews your wax/sealant every time you use it so that makes sense. The final result is more solid and glassy (a lot like a paint sealant) instead of almost sticky or gooey like the QD can get sometimes.
A little goes a long way too. I filled up a 16oz spray bottle like 4 months ago it's probably still 3/4 full. At this rate the gallon container is going to last a few years.
Meguiar's D156 is your friend, if you want to give it a little shine once it's clean. Spray a microfiber, wipe it on, then wipe it off. Works on plastic, black trim, everything.
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
Thank me later.
I've always used this stuff
http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/tags-on-product/B000CNBI1A
to clean and polish my CPUs and heatsinks. You get the same results, and not quite as risky as sandpaper. You may want to try it out next time.
you are putting way too much or change chain lube. I am using chain wax (see here )
Also, I put the chain wax after a ride when the chain is hot. The lube penetrates deeper on the o-rings and on the plus side, you are always ready to ride next time.
Perhaps the wax you're using isn't strong enough to protect against the hard water etching. If you're using a carnauba wax, perhaps try switching to a poly wax, like Meguiar's Ultimate Wax. It has a tackier feel to it when it's cured (not slick) so I imagine it forms a thicker, stronger layer of protection over the car.
To fix lots of etching, I recommend getting a DA polisher, porter cable DA is good, here's a whole kit for under $200,: http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html?productid=poca74pofcop&amp;channelid=FROOG&amp;utm_source=CSEs&amp;utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&amp;utm_campaign=CSE&amp;gclid=CJ_twp2IncACFSsV7AodMSwAAA
though I use Meguiar's microfiber DA correction system on mine, a little more expensive but better.
You can try a number of products to "clean" etching by hand. I'd prefer a cleaner polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, a couple meguiar's foam pads, and a quality microfiber. And follow up with an oil-heavy pure polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish
Another tip is to avoid letting water dry over your car. If you have a brief shower and your car gets wet with lots of water beads, drive the car around the block, wipe it down with a huge soft microfiber, or use an electric leaf blower to blow the water off. Or get a Metropolitan Master Blaster air dryer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGSLSTaOB4