Best ceiling fans & lights according to redditors

We found 450 Reddit comments discussing the best ceiling fans & lights. We ranked the 152 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Ceiling fan accessories
Ceiling fan light kits
Ceiling fans

Top Reddit comments about Ceiling Fans & Lights:

u/AmbushParty · 455 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

$6.93 on Amazon. for those of you who rarely walk into a Home Depot.

u/brock_lee · 123 pointsr/whatisthisthing

It's been there. It's a stick-on balancing weight. It just decided to come off now, I suppose.

u/cleansweep9 · 58 pointsr/homeautomation

I like automation for the sake of automation as next as the next guy. But if anyone wants a more straight-forward approach, you can buy a stand-alone switch with built-in humidity sensor for $20-40. I've had one in my bathroom for almost 5 years now, and it has worked great.

u/redirdamon · 26 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

One pack $7.99
Two pack $29.94

Yeah. I'll take two one packs.

u/Summerie · 18 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

Here you go folks. $8.99 on Amazon.

u/Qkachef · 16 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

I was just shopping for these. The same/similar ones are on Amazon

Ceiling Fan Pull Chain Set

u/timcsi10 · 15 pointsr/HomeKit

Correct me if I’m wrong, but I’m afraid that’s not the case, but there is a product for retrofit fans by Hunter:

The product you linked just adds wireless communication to a Casablanca wall switch or remote.

However, if you look at the reviews of their SimpleConnect app and how difficult it is to get it work with HomeKit or Alexa, maybe you should search for another option

u/oosickness · 12 pointsr/DIY

No that will not work, it would for a normal electrical outlet but not to support a ceiling fan, youlll need one of these or something similar at the local home depot or Lowes
Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans

u/amphetamachine · 11 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

Some advertiser is making money off this link and that's generally frowned upon. Remove referral (ref=...) from the link and I'll restore it.

Edit: Sigh.

u/DemmyDemon · 10 pointsr/Vive

I have two of these:
And two of these:

Less of a footprint than a tripod, and more stable.

u/ragingcomputer · 10 pointsr/homeautomation

I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.

I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery

Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too

I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible

This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working

Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090

2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White)

MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge

GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch

GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit

I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.

I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker

Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply

A few scenarios might help with inspiration.

I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.

If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness

I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely

My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced

u/belly917 · 9 pointsr/homeautomation

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

  • expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)

  • Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.

  • A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.

    I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.
u/notimeforwork · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

In the spirit of LED related advice: replacing your ceiling fan bulbs with 60w LED equivalents makes a world of difference in lighting quality in the room. But so far the only candelabra LEDS I've found that don't have interference issues are the Philips bulbs. Best upgrade I did was to put Philips LEDs and the Lutron Maestro controller on all our fans. Separate control of lights and fan, and the Philips LEDs dim fairly well.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White

Philips 458687 60W Equivalent Dimmable B12 Decorative Candle LED Light Bulb with Warm Glow Effect (4-Pack)

Note: I tried the LOHAS bulbs and their brightness and color temp choices are excellent, but horrible interference. Couldn't operate the Lutron switches if a LOHAS bulb was switched on. If you don't have any devices where interference might matter, check out the LOHAS bulbs.

u/IamSoUnique · 6 pointsr/Vive

UK peeps: Clamp & Black Pole

u/Ironzey · 6 pointsr/homeautomation

GE switches are what I recommend.
They have switches, On/Off.
They have dimmers, On/Off and dim brighten (hold up to brighten or hold down to dim not too hard)
They have fan controller. Four speeds, low, medium, high and off. (sorry, no reverse)

You might want to reconsider the double triple tap option. It nice to be able to control something unrelated using a "secret switch". Triple tap to restart a computer by chance. Triple tap to turn off all the light in your place.

I only have one of the homeseer switches and don't regret the purchase. My switch control the lights in our loft (on/off/dim/brighten), double tap controls lights that are connected to a plugin module. Triple tap is used to play a test sound that I use to test the volume of house alerts.

It's great that you are thinking of other folks who will be using the system. Not everyone wants to pull out a phone to turn on a light.

I prefer dimmers to on/off switches. The light ramps up gracefully. Now, I find the on/off to be very jarring.

Motion sensors, I've found the monoprice units to be just fine. They've been reliable and include a temperature sensor. I've had a few of these for years and have yet to replace a battery. The best price I've found on theses.

u/1-800-CUM-SHOT · 6 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

Looks like part of this set. It's a pretty cute way to easily tell the difference between the hanging chain controlling the fan vs. the light.

u/parksddd · 5 pointsr/amazonecho

This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.

I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.

u/CathyTheGreatsHorse · 5 pointsr/SmartThings

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

u/Alwayssunnyinarizona · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

GE: [zwave] ( or [zwave+] ( and a [slave switch] (

Edit: where were you planning on putting the motion sensor? GE/Jasco has combined motion sensing switches that work quite well out. 26931 and 26933 are the product numbers.

u/johnastew · 5 pointsr/googlehome

New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14287

u/slugbutter · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You can change any household light fixture for any other. The only issue is the footprint of the fixture. You may have to do a spackle repair or paint the area that was once covered by the fixture but no longer is. You may also have to install an appropriate mounting box depending on how the flouresenct was installed; Flourescent fixtures are typically not mounted on a box whereas flush mount fixtures are. You won't have to damage the ceiling to switch from one to the other. If it's gonna be an actual chandelier, you'll want a box that's made to handle more weight, like this:
This box can be installed from below through a hole which is the same size as the box itself.

u/siamonsez · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If I understand correctly, you have a 3-way switch setup controlling the light/fan, where there's two switches that control the same fixture. This shouldn't be an issue if you swapped the light for the fan wiring it the same way.

Did you change anything at the switch? Have you flipped both switches to make sure it's on?(had to ask)

I'd check there's still power getting to the red wire in the ceiling box, you can get a non-contact voltage tester, or a multimeter for <$20.

If you still have power controlled by the switches, I'd try bypassing the controller for the remote. There should be 4 wires going into it, ground(bare or green), neutral(white), fan power(black), and light power(blue). Tie the black and blue wires together with the red in the box, and the rest normally.

If you are not super comfortable with electricity and wiring, and there's power getting to the red wire in the ceiling, just return the fan for a new one, as that's what you'd have to do anyway if the controller is bad.

Side note: Always turn off the breaker when working on your wiring, and you should switch the ceiling box for one that's meant to support a fan. Depending on where the original box is in relation to the joists, you want one like this or this. The plastic ones that are nailed to the side of the joist offer to much movement. Not only will it wear the bearings in the motor prematurely, but you risk it falling.

u/Knoxie_89 · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

My preference is smart switches. $34 on amazon. Bulbs go bad, lamps change. A switch will last longer and is universal. You could also go with a outlet for similar price. Plus with a bulb the device needs power all the time, so if the switch gets turned off your routine wont work properly.

u/ramk13 · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

If you google "zwave switch" (not dimmer) you'll find tons. Not to sound mean, but did you try searching?

u/skwolf522 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You shouldn't need to cut the ceiling. I installed a fan in my living room by moving the old can light out of the way and using a screw type fan box. And I have no attic access above my living room.



You should be able to do it all through that hole.

u/Jessie_James · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement
  1. You don't mount fans to light boxes. You mount them to fan braces like this. They are SUPER easy to install.

  2. When you do this, install a wireless remote control or a basic wall switch with remote (I use these) or a crazy voice-activated one like this. You have to do this BEFORE you mount the fan to the ceiling.
u/mistersausage · 3 pointsr/homeowners

You can still get light and fan control without a pull cord if they only ran a single hot. Just buy a fan with a remote, or add one of these:

u/Siltuz · 3 pointsr/Vive

I have had success previously using the below, over a year with no issues. I did however add velcro to the top as they did not work so well with sloped ceilings before, but they worked perfectly with flat ceilings.

Wolfcraft Poles

Mounty Thingies

u/AviateX14 · 3 pointsr/Vive

I'd suggest getting some ceiling supports instead and a camera clamp, they take up far less space. I got two of these supports and two of these mounts. They take up about as much floor space as your phone would, and they're very very stable. Plus they only take a minute to set up.

u/briankwest · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

This is what I use:

With a standard ceiling fan, I set the fan on high at its switch/pull chain and this can make it high/med/low


u/Chochonut83 · 3 pointsr/googlehome
u/animedj · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

How about if you use a smart switch ( ? You can use as many regular bulbs you want, and to configure you would be configuring only 1 device (the switch) instead of each bulb

u/mrjoey35 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

A couple of simple Zwave switches will fit there no problem. I've been slowing replacing all the
switches in my house with them

u/jam905 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

FYI, the paddle-style GE/Jasco binary switches also have an air-gap. So, pulling it out is another way to reset the switch and is probably easier than flipping a breaker.

u/dfcHeadChair · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm still not sure why you would just replace the existing light switches with Z-Wave smart switches. You would be able to use whatever bulbs you wanted. Any time a bulb went bad you wouldn't have to spring for $30-$50 for a single bulb.

And if the owner didn't like the smart lighting, you could leave in the existing switches, or worst case replacement them with dumb switches just as you planned.

Maybe I'm not understanding something. Could you help explain why you went with all of the bulbs over the switches? I'm not seeing any advantage in doing so.

u/5GallonsOfMayonaise · 3 pointsr/DIY


You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this

but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like

So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well

u/saunjay1 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.

u/traCkready · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Might I ask what is keeping you from using an entire switch replacement? Not sure what country your in, but there are plenty available on Amazon.

Installation isn't hard per say, but if you don't feel comfortable its certainly not worth electrocuting yourself or having a fire hazard. It mostly involves cutting power off at the breaker, confirming power is off at the switch, removing the 3 wires from the existing switch and moving them over to their appropriate location. Now, many z-wave switches require a neutral wire, depending on the age of your residence this may or may not be an issue. If you do have a neutral wire it won't be connected to the existing switch, you will likely have to unbundle it from the back of the receptacle box.

This is a on/off zwave switch, it sounds like you are using phillips hue bulbs in the receptacles. In this case you don't want a dimmer, the dimming is done internally on the bulbs circuitry

This is a dimmer zwave switch, this would be good for incandescent bulbs, some dimmable cfl and LED bulbs will work but you will likely need to look at compatibility. Some dimmable cfl/led don't play well with certain switches, you might get inconsistent dimming performance, buzzing or flickering as most common side effects of a poorly matched bulb.

Edit: Adding a few Amazon links for example w/ explaination

u/phil_g · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

u/KashEsq · 3 pointsr/googlehome

There are no SmartThings branded switches. SmartThings is a central hub that is capable of controlling a vast array of third-party smart home devices. When you link it with Google Home, voice commands to the Home will be sent to the SmartThings hub, which will then trigger the smart home device based on how you set it up in the SmartThings app.

For example, you have a smart light switch installed in your kitchen that is labeled "Kitchen Lights" in the SmartThings app. When you say "Hey Google, turn off Kitchen Lights" the SmartThings hub will trigger the smart light switch to the "off" position. No need for smart bulbs, just swap out your current "dumb" light switch for a smart one and you'll be able to control your light fixture.

I personally have several GE 12722 Z-Wave Switches installed in my apartment, which are controlled by SmartThings and Google Home. The light fixtures have regular, run-of-the-mill LED bulbs in them. I issue voice commands like "Turn on/off Kitchen Lights" or "Turn on/off Bedroom Lights" and the switches activate near-instantly. Delay can be measured in milliseconds. Much better than the laggy IFTTT.

Check out the Works with SmartThings page to see the vast multitude of smart home devices that can be controlled by the hub.

u/timekillerjay · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

It's not a cheap, or easy solution, but here is what I did for my ceiling fan. First off, I am using Insteon smart devices. I don't see a lot of discussion about Insteon here, but I love it. I've pretty much replaced every switch in my house with Insteon. They sell their own smart hub, but I have an ISY994i from Universal Devices because is works with my security system.

So, on the the fan/light control. I bought/installed an Insteon fanlinc. which installs into the housing of the ceiling fan. With the FanLinc and a Smart hub you can control the fan speed and light with program logic, or your cell phone. But to control it from the wall, I installed an Insteon 6 button keypad dimmer and FanLinc button kit. The end result is a smart fan/light I can control with my phone and programming logic, but also has a nice keypad on the wall for setting the fan speed, etc.

Again, this is not a cheap option (especially if you have to buy the smart hub), but it works great!

u/ltloopy · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

came here to say the same thing. I have two of these installed in my house. I did however wire it a little bit different than the way it was stated in the manual. I wired the light directly to the 6 button dimmer and then linked the 4 middle buttons to off/low/med/high with the fanlinc

Fanlinc box wired to the ceiling fan


keypad insert for the fan speeds

another option i considered but didnt actually pursue is the Aeotec micro dimmer that could be paired with a their wall swipe switch whenever it comes out.

u/kperkins1982 · 3 pointsr/smarthome

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287

I have two of these controlling ceiling fans. They work great.

u/sonic30101 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287

To my knowledge you aren't supposed to use a dimmer on a fan

u/Anabeer · 2 pointsr/DIY

There is a fan bracket available for this very thing.

You slip this tube up into the void and extend it from joist to joist by screwing it out (like a shower tension rod) and the ends are pronged to grab the joists.

Then the box screws into this bar.

I'd toss the plastic boxes and replace with fan rated just the same.

u/rcrracer · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Hope that the wire(s) that goes to the existing recess light are long enough to reach the new junction box. All junction boxes have to be accessible. NEC Article 100 def. Accessible (as applied to wiring methods). Capable of
being removed or exposed without damaging the building
structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building. NEC 314.29 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, and Handhole Enclosures
to Be Accessible. Boxes, conduit bodies, and handhole
enclosures shall be installed so that the wiring contained
in them can be rendered accessible without removing
any part of the building or structure, or, in underground
circuits, without excavating sidewalks, paving, earth, or
other substance that is to be used to establish the finished

You may need to place the new box to the side a few inches from where you want to, so the wires will reach. You could abandon the recess up in the attic. Another box no one has suggested using is a ceiling fan box. This will put zero load on any sheet rock patch. You might be able to come up with a way to attach the sheet rock patch to the box bar.

u/HBK008 · 2 pointsr/electronics

These look like the kind of things you might be looking for:

Leviton RTF01-10W Decora Illumatech Quiet Fan Speed Control

Leviton RTD01-10W IllumaTech 1.5A 300W Rotary Combo Fan Speed Dimmer Control

Though you would need them to be 220VAC and correct amperage/wattage rated.

u/Scruffyshaggy · 2 pointsr/IKEA

No, it isn't safe to use a light dimmer on a fan. I'm picturing a ceiling fan not a portable, for that you need something like this Sorry if the link is screwy, I'm on mobile.

u/1_plastics_ave · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/mbeachcontrol · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

No. That is just my personal usage.

There are other options. Probably a good choice GE Switches.
If you don't want added automation, I believe the GE Remote should be able to join and group the switches and then work as remote.

u/amapatzer · 2 pointsr/Vive

Well in that case if you're going to buy tripods anyway, maybe just start with those and see how well they work for you?

I have these poles:ütze-max-belastbar/dp/B001BWT2PA

And these to attach the lighthouses to the poles:

Tbh. I think they work perfectly fine for me, but I am sure you will be able to find something better. I just bought those because they were cheap and could be delivered quickly and they didn't have horrible reviews ;)

u/daveyouremywifenow · 2 pointsr/Vive

Careful with lighting stands, the lighthouses have motors in them which can cause a wobble on lighting stands even more than on tripods. It's very slight, but very annoying when you notice it.

Tension rods, like this(with these), are sturdier and have a much smaller footprint too, so you can have a bigger playspace.

u/davedontmind · 2 pointsr/Vive

They look good, but a bit expensive. I went for 2 of these which are less than a quarter of the cost, although I did need to add 2 of these to mount the lighthouse to the pole. Total cost for everything to mount 2 lighthouses: around £46.

Makes my room look a little bit like a building site, but it does mean I can move my setup between my seated gaming room & my room-scale room easily.

u/ArizonaLad · 2 pointsr/DIY

Redwood: your idea is great for the light. If anyone here also wanted to control the fan speeds as well, this kit is reasonably priced:

u/mikeytown2 · 2 pointsr/electricians
u/nuke3ae · 2 pointsr/fixit

What about a universal wireless remote?
Universal Ceiling Fan Remote Control Kit

u/c1arkbar · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722

[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724

Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc

u/A1cntrler · 2 pointsr/smarthome

Your best solution is to replace the in wall switch you're using with a Z-Wave one. This way you can still operate the lamp from the switch AND still control it through the app/Alexa. If you wanted to get fancy, there's a version of this switch that has a dimmer built in as well.

u/theoxfordcomma · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

u/AviN456 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I use these, and they work perfectly.

u/Leftychill · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.


u/hunterstee · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

/u/Alwayssunnyinarizona raises a lot of good points as usual. I would also add that if you ever outgrow ST, you can always integrate it with Home Assistant and keep ST as the basic device manager.

Lights (dimming):

Lights (non-dimming):


All three of those work with ST, but do indeed require neutral wires.

u/Broadsid3 · 2 pointsr/homeassistant

Do you have a model switch you recommend? I was looking at these but they seem pretty pricey

u/Nate1n22 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If you have a neutral wire I recommend these:

I doubt leaving the lights on is skyrocketing your electricity bill though. Another option would be LED bulbs.

u/RelevantJesse · 2 pointsr/electricians

Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.

It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.

One of these -

And two add on switches -

So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.

Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.

So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.

Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3

u/censor_this · 2 pointsr/SmartThings
  1. As long as it says "zwave enabled" or something of that nature it will connect to smartthings. All of the companies you listed above I have at least one of in my house all connected to my hub. Just look for the zwave logo.

  2. Everything you've listed can be placed with my go-to switch:
    they're pretty inexpesive and reliable. There are cheaper, but I've had issues with some of them so I've decided to just go with these when I change out switches.

    If you have 3-way switches (though you didn't list any) you need the companion switch and some rewiring of the boxes. If you're handy it's not too bad. If you don't know the difference between the white wire and black wire, I'd spend some time on youtube before get too far into pulling the boxes apart.

    Another important thing to mention on the wiring front: If you have an older house, you need to make sure that you have a neutral wire in all the boxes that you want to put a smart switch in. Newer houses will have them because the electrical code was updated to require them - that wasn't in place (or followed) until 20-25 years ago.
u/ekzoo85 · 2 pointsr/winkhub

First off, welcome -- it's a fun ride!

Re: Dimmers/Plugs/Etc
Caseta is nice, I have a couple of switches and they work great. Especially if you want to create 3-way switches without wiring. What I mean is that you can just replace one hard-wired switch with a smart switch and then use the Caseta Pico for the secondary location (which just adheres to the wall).

Just some thought starters as you explore further -- for hardwired switches, in addition to Lutron, I have had a ton of success with the GE/Jasco Z-Wave switches.

I have the generic on/off switch, dimmer switch and fan switch by them (more on the dimmer function later).

For my plug-in switches, currently I have a couple different ones I use for Christmas lights, and a couple of lamps and a floor fan.

My favorite is this random one I found by Inovelli or Show Home (not sure -- looks like Inovelli is a distributor or something):

I like it because you can control two outlets individually vs just one like all the other ones and it's around the same price too.

I also own a Leviton plug-in which works great too, but only controls one outlet -- still no complaints:

Ok, now on to your question about blog/forum/guide, etc...
Here's a good place to start:

I also enjoy reading the Wink Group comments on Facebook -- I can't remember the name of the group, but if you just search for Wink Home Automation, I think it shows up. That group has been awesome for learning new things. It's a fairly large group too.

Lastly, I think I understand what you're asking, but if not, I apologize. How the GE Dimmers work (and I'm assuming the other ones too) is that you can use the switch manually like any dimmer switch -- hold up and it gets brighter, hold down and it gets dimmer, tap the up button and the light turns on to the last setting you left it at, tap the bottom button and the light turns off.

You can also set the percentage (or approximate, I don't recall it having actual numbers -- it's more a sliding scale) you'd like it to go to from within the Wink app (ex: have your light come on to around 75% at 8pm, then dim to 50% at 10pm).

Make sense?

Hope this helps.

u/robmcguinness · 2 pointsr/Abode

I kept forgetting to turn on/off my porch lights so I installed GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch, In-Wall, 12722 and enabled two IFTTT recipes If sunrise, then turn off Porch Lights switch and Turn on lights at sunset. It's fantastic.

u/valkyrieamber · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

The device in your picture is called a 3-gang plate.

My solution when I needed to do this in my home was to get a Samsung Smartthings hub. It's compatible with Alexa plus a ton of other stuff so it's a sensible purchase. I highly recommend it.

Once you have Smartthings, you can get any z-wave or zigbee devices and they can be controlled either through the Smartthings app or through Alexa.

GE Z-Wave switches:

3-Gang Paddle plate:

u/callmejeremy · 2 pointsr/smarthome

Personally, I wouldn't recommend a smart IoT ceiling fan. Just in case you switch it out later.
I'll be going with an insteon hub and this, it controls both the light and the fan
Insteon 2475F FanLinc Insteon Dual-Band Ceiling Fan and Light Controller

u/nileo2005 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

A universal kit will do that for you.

Another option is a smart switch.

u/Astramancer_ · 2 pointsr/LifeProTips
u/sirbeast · 2 pointsr/pics
u/barnacledoor · 2 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

right here on amazon is where i got mine. i like them. they have a nice weight to them.

u/TheAmazingAaron · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

They make fans that sense moisture and turn off after the room/vent/ducts are dry.

Humidity sensing fans on Amazon.

Those are mostly over $100, but here's a switch that senses moisture and automatically turns on the exhaust. Pretty cool, I didn't know this existed until you asked! Now I'm totally getting one.

u/NinjaCoder · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Here is a wall switch that also senses humidity.

u/Twasnow · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Just to make sure you aren't trying to reinvent the wheel. Well this work for your purposes

u/Cuicos · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Humidistat for exhaust fans
or you could put your exhaust on a timer. Or if you can work those Arduino/Raspberry Pi things I'm sure you can make something work, but I can't help with that.

u/KerNil · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Just a thought... Have you considered using a fan that employs both a humidity sensor and motion sensor simultaneously (e.g.)?

Alternatively, you could use a standard exhaust fan, combined with a humidity-sensing switch (e.g.). The switch contains an on/off button, so you can still control the fan manually.

u/Mgk645 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I added a fan to our bathroom (5x6), I went with a Panasonic 80CFM. It works great. I mounted it outside the tub/shower area in the middle of the bathroom. The fan keeps the condensation off the window and the mirror, although, some does build up directly above the showerhead. We have an older house and the ceiling in the shower is lower than the rest of the bathroom.

Also, grab one of these -

There's no point of installing a fan if you dont turn it on...

Edit - get the Panasonic, super quiet.

u/Crajo · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

The closest out of the box solution I've seen is the Hunter SIMPLEconnect but it's bluetooth and not WiFi or Echo enabled.

u/flashlightgiggles · 2 pointsr/HomeKit

99107 is a weird component.

99107 receives BT from the simpleconnect wifi app, then relays RF to a 99199 receiver.

99158 and 99198 are RF controls that communicate directly with a 99199 receiver.

hunter still has 2 simpleconnect apps. simpleconnect wifi and simpleconnect.

u/Kisele0n · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

That's just an on/off switch - full fan control with speeds is not supported by the caseta line.

Edit: for example, this GE z-wave fan switch:

u/jamesguitar3 · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

/u/BreakfastBeerz is correct. Get a "fan control" z-wave switch so you can better control the fan since the speed is determined by voltage to the motor so this specific "fan control" is needed.

u/thelatekof · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

This is what I used. It is a dimmer switch that has preset settings at like 33, 66, 100 % power or something like that to trigger the speed threshold settings of a fans low medium and high. I used it with a smarthings hub and echo.

u/eternal_peril · 2 pointsr/smarthome


If you have a switch for the fan and a switch for the light, you are better off with 2 zwave switches, like these:


That would give you much better control over everything. For me and all my fans, I have exactly one control. So I need this to control fan/lights unless I want to run a secondary wire back (which I don't)

u/devicenull · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I'm confused, because if there was a ceiling fan there before, the box should already be in the ceiling? Did someone remove the fan and the box?

This is what you'd normally use for a fan:

If you just want a box to mount there, you can use something like this:

(Note: there are much cheaper versions of the second one available from hardware stores)

u/wazzymodo45 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Ditch the plastic box, it's not meant for a fan. Depending on the setup, you can use this without ripping down drywall or going into the attic. I've used three of these in my house:

Westinghouse Lighting 0110000 Saf-T-Brace for Ceiling Fans, 3 Teeth, Twist and Lock

u/flavor8 · 1 pointr/homeowners

The easiest brace to install has two arms that twist to lock in position:

u/DeFex · 1 pointr/WTF

You can stick little weights on the blades to de-wobblify it. I believe there is even a kit you can buy.

Yes there is

u/letsgoflyers81 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

There's also this one for only $37. But a lot of reviews talk about interference and issues with LEDs. That's too bad, otherwise it'd be perfect.

u/0110010001100010 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is the one I'm using: Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White

u/grnhays · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I just added this switch. I think its 2hat your describing.

Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Maestro Fan Control and Dimmer Kit, White

u/laydros · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Caseta has non-dimming switches that work with HomeKit. The more reasonably priced one requires neutral but the hard to find one doesn't. (For some reason it's on Amazon for $58 instead of $70+ as I write this)

These can be used to turn a fan on and off, but not control the fan speed.

I wish there was a Caseta version of this combined controller (for a reasonable price) that can work with one wire to the canopy.

u/ehoch76 · 1 pointr/Hue

I put in these switches when i rewired mine.

You can control them independently and even dim and change fan speed. Quite nice.

u/Nouniard · 1 pointr/HomeKit

I'm in the same predicament. The main area lights in my rooms are integrated into ceiling fans.

I sent a message to Lutron about the lack of fan/light controls in their Caséta lineup, pointing out that they already have a perfect product for this in their Maestro line (Lutron MA-LFQHW-WH Fan Control and Dimmer Kit). All that thing needs is to be integrated into Caséta and then it's perfect for HomeKit.

I'm hoping they'll address this early next year for CES or something.

u/tomgabriele · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Any fan with an AC motor will generally be compatible with any fan switch, smart or dumb. You might have to ignore some instructions if the fan is set up to work with a remote or a single pair of wires.

How many conductors do you have going to the wall box? You'd need three plus ground if you want independent control of light dimming and fan speed, unless you get this specific Maestro switch that comes with a relay that goes in the canopy:

That switch is definitely compatible with the fan you linked.

u/Smaskifa · 1 pointr/Hue

I have 3 ceiling fans, 2 with Hue lights in them. I use this Lutron switch for all 3 ceiling fans. The description says it's meant for halogen bulbs and won't work with LED/CFL, but it works with mine. Only downside is that if you use the switch to turn on/off the light they flicker a LOT as they're turning on/off. Like a full on strobe effect for a couple of seconds.

It comes with a canopy module that you install in the junction box above the ceiling fan, which means you have to uninstall the ceiling fan to get this to work. There may be better solutions for this available now.

u/ez617 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon
u/TonyWrocks · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This is what I use when I don't have two switchable hot wires for a ceiling fan. Also, make sure the box is braced while you have it down.

u/MikeyLew32 · 1 pointr/homeowners

Have you considered using one of these?

I have a few fans in my house that replaced lights, and I was not about to fish romex up walls and across ceilings through joists, etc. I got a few of these, and they work awesome.

u/DStoo · 1 pointr/homeautomation

In the world of tablets a used iPad or bare bones Android would cost less than a real remote and do other things like angry bird on the toilet.

Plus I just found this GE remote

u/TinyEpicUsername · 1 pointr/Vive

The walls are made of drywall, so not as strong as a shower. I wonder if a shorter version of this type of pole would work horizontally. This one has a minimum of over a metre in length, while the gap is only 87cm

u/pookage · 1 pointr/Vive

Don't worry - you really may be overthinking it; at home I have both lighthouses on opposite sides of the same wall because I don't have any space on the opposing side - it works fine for anything other than when my body is blocking both sensors from the controllers.

When I'm doing a seated game I just rotate one to point at me and it works grand.

Just imagine them like eyes - as long as at least one can see what you're trying to track at any given moment in time; it'll work. The advice is to put them high so that they're less likely to have their line-of-sight blocked by something.

TL;DR - your setup will work fine.


P.S - I use these floor-to ceiling poles with these clamps to mount the lighthouses onto

u/Horn2DFoliage · 1 pointr/Vive

I know you said tripods, but why lose the space from the legs when these work brilliantly. With some handlebar camera mounts for the lighthouses you are all set to go.

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Good solution for mounting the lighthouse? by madcolster

I found these two things on the Amazons just now. I think they will solve my problem of mounting them in a rather small room. I didn't want to use tripods as they wouldn't fit conveniently anywhere. Have any of you used this as a solution and, more importantly, does it work?

Appreciate any help here.

(FYI, I did pre-order a Rift, but I gave up after the immensely disasterous release....)




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u/Whirlmeister · 1 pointr/Vive

Yes, it comes with controllers.

I found some over-ear headphones were uncomfortable because of the headstrap for some people, but the majority of people I've demoed for have had no problems. On-ear headphones may be a better option, and if its just for you the supplied ear buds are actually surprisingly good.

Depending on your room and whether you are happy to screw the lighthouse sensors to the wall you may need some sort of mount.

I was happy to screw the sensor mounts to the wall at home but I picked up

A couple of these

and a couple of these

So I could bring the Vive places with me and demo (without having to screw anything to the wall).

Alternatively if you want to attach the sensors to a bookshelf or similar these are great:

I also ended up getting a 3m HMDI extention and a 3m USB extension because my play area is a few meters from my PC and out of the box you only get 1m cables to the breakout box.

u/eras · 1 pointr/Games

These are the shit, use much less space than tripods: - at least if you don't have the ceiling very high. Also, mount them upside down and you need some adapter for mounting the actual lighthouses.

u/kirby2000 · 1 pointr/Vive

I've got these for my UK setup.

They work great and are easy to put up and take down, so if you want to take it over to a friends house, you don't need to spend ages disassembling things.

u/Arioch53 · 1 pointr/Vive

Not games but, I bought some contractor poles to mount the lighthouses. I make better use of my available space due to better and more reliable coverage than just putting the lighthouses on shelves and stuff. I didn't have to drill holes or damage anything to put them up. My setup is portable if I want to move it elsewhere.

I picked these, but there's lots of other options such as tripods, etc.

Wolfcraft Telescopic Support
MyArmor Universial Quick Release Pipe Clamp Mounts

u/Glowbeast · 1 pointr/Vive

I've got a GTX 1070, running 3 monitors and a Vive without any issues.

Have my lighthouses on lighting stands at the moment but thinking of getting a pair of these for the smaller footprint (hoping they can be mounted on the window sill) and higher angle:

u/lWerdnal · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I used the supports and clamps . Look to be a bit cheaper than the ones above and they work perfectly. Great as a portable option too.

u/nexiusevaro · 1 pointr/PSVR

i vote cardboard.

I am pretty tall and found tacking it way up on the wall on a piece of cardboard let me aim it down slightly and get pretty good arm length coverage in the camera's view. Adjustable a few ways that was as well. There are a few post up right now about various ways to hook it to the wall that are somewhat in jest but can give you a few ideas about how to wall fix it.

If i were to do it again I would get the extendable tubes that have a camera mount on them rather than the 2 tripods I got for the vive rig's base stations. The tripods transmit and enhance vibration to the point to where I had to put in shock pads at their bases. I got a pair of the fovitec tripods. Great, but at the height I have them they really pick up floor vibration without the pads. If that's not a potential issue for you, they were nice for the price.

Something like this is what I would do if I did it over:
much smaller footprint this way too!
down towards the middle of the page you can see a couple mount types that would fit it as well


u/Super_Scooper · 1 pointr/Vive

On phone so apologies for horrible formatting of the links. I bought this stand
Along with this bracket

It's not completely ideal as I'm effectively using the stands upside-down as the extension bit is to thin for the bracket to fit around. The brackets themselves are also a little flimsy but seem to hold fine. Means you can get the recommended setup angle and have them completely up in the corner of rooms maximising your vertical height and minimising chance of occlusion.
For me it works well as I didn't want to drill holes in the walls and I wanted a quick method of moving it around for demoing to people.

u/Simpanra · 1 pointr/Vive

Nice idea, but way more expensive than necessary on the poles, save 30 quid and get these instead;

u/haworld · 1 pointr/homeautomation

There aren't any exact z-wave replacements for a single gang, dual load lighting/fan speed controller like that. You do have a couple options though...

  1. Leviton VRCS2 is a dual load single gang switch that can control 2 loads via on/off relay only, no dimming.

  2. In a two gang box, install any zwave dimmer or relay for the light kit, and one of two ceiling fan speed controllers for the second switch - either a GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01. You could also just install an on/off relay for the ceiling fan, if you don't want speed control.

    Hope that helps!
u/A5HRAJ · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You'll have to connect separate switches for the motor and the light. This may require installation of a larger wall switch electrical box (e.g. if you have a 1-Gang box, replace it with a 2-Gang box) and/or
running additional electrical wire to the fan from the wall box.

I've only seen two options for controlling fan motors: the GE 12730 or the Leviton VRF01-1LZ. There are a bunch of options for the light, but the HomeSeer HS-WD100+ seems to be the current favorite.

u/i_am_j11 · 1 pointr/smarthome

Technically you can. But this is also assuming that you have a separate wire for the fan control to your wall switch. This way, you can have a separate ZWave switch to control just your fan.

Alternatively, if you dont have that separate wire for the fan control in your wall switch, I would just get a universal remote control for your fan and call it a day. (

u/Captriker · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I think the OP's solution helps with fans that are also lights if I'm not mistaken. It looks like a hack to control one of those universal fan remotes using the Arduino and SmartThings.

I'd love to do something similar as I have five fans in the house that I'd like to control separate from the attached lights. I can add these ( but that doesn't get me z-wave.

u/gethungry · 1 pointr/electricians


vs Wall Switch

what do you suggest?

u/LNMagic · 1 pointr/funny

I don't know. I grew up in the US, where every fan has a chain. I'm not against running wire, but it's a bit inconvenient. There's also another solution, though.

u/hobbykitjr · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I just did all 3 bedrooms in my house with this:

Its half the price, light dimmer, built in thermostat and better light timer...

oh well. each room gets its own thermostat this way.

u/CaptJordi · 1 pointr/fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu

Very very much so! Our bedroom light came with one and I freaking love that thing. You can get the conversion kit on amazon actually. We have the same remote, and the thermostat part is great for night!

u/CynicallySane · 1 pointr/smarthome

You will need two things primarily.

One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.

Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.

edit: words and stuff

u/relativityboy · 1 pointr/smarthome

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

u/good1dave · 1 pointr/SmartThings

After buying some 'smart' bulbs early on in my home automation project, I've decided the batter way to go is smart SWITCHES. I'm using several flavors of these:

u/suckfail · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I'm not 100% sure what you're asking, but I use these GE Z-Wave light switches in my house and they work flawlessly. They are 'rocker' style so it can't be 'off' when it's 'on' if you know what I mean.

u/earnstaf · 1 pointr/firstworldproblems

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
> Switches:
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way):
> Dimmer:
> Fan:
> SmartThings:
> Door Locks:
> Thermostat:
> Echo (for voice control):

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

u/uckfoo · 1 pointr/smarthome

Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.

Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.

u/PearsonFlyer · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Yes, something like this:

u/artel · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have had great luck with these. Your electrician will be able to install them without problem and they will work well with just about all the home automation hubs.

Just as a disclaimer, I haven't spent much time with centralized solutions. How does the cost compare to smart-switches? I imagine the entire solution would cost quite a bit more.

u/___le · 1 pointr/homeassistant

A truly internet independent switch would be from devices with Z-Wave, RF, ZigBee, X11. And the more current switches would be the network connected ones from Belkin, TP-Link, etc (pretty much anything with HomeKit, Alexa logo on the box).

The best thing about Home Assistant is that is in completely platform agnostic, so you can mix and match as need. I personally prefer z-wave switches for physical light switches. Ones from GE and Linear have really good build quality. I also use GE for some mains as well. These GE are good. The 3-way switches that pair with these are also dead simple to install as well.

Beyond that, its reasonably safe to use Wifi switches as well. Most switches can be remain within your local network. You can firewall those devices from sending out. Or if you want remote control, you can also always put your home automation on a separate subnet.

u/BustedKnuckleGarage · 1 pointr/homeautomation

depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch

easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load

I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.

GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish

with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck

direct load good for 20amps

GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall

Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor

u/gurumitts · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Hello, I use home assistant with a Z-Stick. The following ge switch works really well. Instant updates on the hass ui. I hope to this helps.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722

u/HtownTexans · 1 pointr/ringdoorbell

I have a Wink Hub 2 and a Ge Z-Wave Switch and set up a rule that if Ring detects motion to turn on porch lights.

u/Crunchy005 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You could use one of these, they are z-wave and work with SmartThings.

It is just a paddle switch that triggers a relay and works with a mains load. I have several hooked up to my kitchen lights and dining room fan/light, both are 120v loads. The switch does require a Neutral wire (white wire) in order to stay powered for the transceiver, but it would be a drop in replacement rather than an attached actuator.

u/RedToby · 1 pointr/SmartThings

So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).

Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.

u/theITdad2 · 1 pointr/smarthome

This depends on if you currently have a Smart Hub yet or not. If you do, a simple and easy to use switch, would be the GE line of Z-wave switches:

However, if you don't have Wink, or Smartthings, and want homekit support, then the Lutron Caseta is probably your best bet. It isn't really complicated, it just looks that way at a glance. But its really just a dimmer switch.

u/chad182 · 1 pointr/winkhub

I just replaced my dumb wall switches with this:

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Light Switch, On/Off Paddle, In-Wall, White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater & Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 12722

Sometimes the robot for my garage lights when the door opens after sunset is a bit slow, but I think that’s more to do with wink and not the switch.

u/Bishma · 1 pointr/zwave

It's definitely a switch and not a dimmer (specifically this one, leaving the light in didn't help, and the light works (comes on instantly) since I put the original switch back in place.

u/zeta_cartel_CFO · 1 pointr/SmartThings

The biggest issue that I kept running into while trying to think this through - how do I keep power going to the hue or cree bulbs if the switch is in off position? The only workaround was to install a zwave on/off switch that would first trigger to ON and then enable the smart bulb. But then I realized that would double the cost of the setup. Another option was to use a z-wave inline switch that continuously provides power to the bulbs and also lets you toggle the switch. But then I would be tripling the cost. So finally I decided that I would go with just a set of zwave switches with dimmable LED bulbs.

If you want dimming capability - GE has zwave switches specifically marked as 'Dimmers'. They have several models. Fan Control, Dimmers, 3-way, 3-way add-on and also a simple ON/OFF switch.

u/jeffAA · 1 pointr/SmartThings

>one or two pieces get out of sync. It's easily fixed but annoys my wife.

What's the easy fix?

Also I recommend these switches from GE. You can choose the different types of styles right there on the Amazon page.

u/AnAffableRobot · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I've used GE smart switches all around my house and been happy with the result. This is the basic type, but the whole product line works with SmartThings.

I don't have an alarm/siren, but the list of officially supported devices includes a couple of different options for sirens.

u/ChaosCreator · 1 pointr/homeautomation

The newer ones are Z-Wave+, the older ones are just Z-Wave. I run the Leviton Decoras (Z-Wave+) for switches & dimmers. I've added a few of the new GE Fan Controllers, but those have had a rough time being detected correctly by OZCP / HASS.

u/canikony · 1 pointr/Abode

When you say triggered, do you mean like when someone breaks into your house?

I have it currently setup so that when I get home, the garage door opens ( and my interior lights turn on.

To get the lights to work, I have GE Z wave switches ( and some GE Link LED bulbs (

I don't have any Hue products (yet) but I believe they require a hub to allow them to communicate to abode (not sure though)

u/Immatix · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

There are some screw-in Z-Wave devices like that, but some of them have issues depending on what type of bulb you're using.

If the light is controlled by a switch and you have relatively modern wiring with neutral wires present in the switch box, you could also potentially use a Z-Wave switch like this.

u/norsurfit · 1 pointr/electricians

Ah thanks! Now just to be clear, I am replacing the existing switches with a zwave switch like this:

Which has specific slots on the back labeled "line" and "load" (see pic).

Do I have to match up the correct wires here (line to slot labeled "line", load wire to "load" slot) or does it not matter?

u/Fluorinated · 1 pointr/Abode

For dusk to dawn you can buy a $8 sensor from Lowes. I know it's fun to have everything on the Abode hub, but if all you're going to do is dusk to dawn, the sensor is easy. I have these on all exterior lights.

Or you could change the light switch that controls the outside lights to a Zwave switch four about $38 and control it that way.

u/Mortimer452 · 1 pointr/winkhub

The GE 12722 is a normal on/off switch, will work with a fan or light, on/off only. They work great, although there is about a half-second delay between when you tap the switch and the light turns on/off, along with an audible click, which is kind of annoying.

The GE 14294 is a dimmer control, works with dimmable bulbs only, cannot be used with a ceiling fan except to control the lights. Press and hold up or down to change the light level. They work well, but I get some weird buzzing from dimmable LED's when they're set to lower levels like 10-20%.

The GE 14287 is the only one compatible with ceiling fans to control the fan speed. Low, Medium, and High settings, which are described as anything between 0-33% being Low, 33-66% is Medium, and 66%+ being High. Also press and hold to increase/decrease speed. I've had no issues with these, they work great in my bedroom to control the fan speed.

u/Yeahnotquite · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Yeah, you need all three to voice control your fireplace through that switch-

You need - echo, hub and switch for a total of close to $300. 200 if you got an echo dot.

Not worth it when you can get actual fireplace remote for $75.

The extra $60 I talked about was to upgrade my non-Alexa compatible insteon hub, to the latest Alexa compatible version.

u/unknownmichael · 1 pointr/googlehome

Smartthings is a great, simple way to do this, but it will require buying the hub. Instead of a light bulb, I'd just buy a light switch like this one from GE.

This will allow an easy setup for "Turn on at Sunset and off at sunrise" and will also integrate with Google Home pretty painlessly. May not be the cheapest way to go about it, but it's certainly easy, and it will allow for adding whatever other smart-switches, security sensors, etc. in the future.

u/short_y · 1 pointr/googlehome

I've been thinking I may just buy a switch like this GE Z-Wave Wireless Switch and call it a day

u/idoitforbeer · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Not, wifi as I wasn't thrilled with some of the options. So, I'm about to go down the Z-Wave route:
USB controller
and Light switch.

I'll be basing my setup off a Raspberry PI.

u/andrewtheandrew · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I'm confused what you want. The GE z-wave switches work as a relay regardless if the light is on or off. It is a toggle panel so it is never "up" or "down". If you want to use the manually just click the top for on, or the bottom for off. All z-wave switches are pretty much like that. They click either up or down and then return to center. They don't disappear from the network just because the light is off. Are you saying you don't want the switch to turn the light off? Surely I am missing something here.

Why bother having a switch at all if you don't want it to control power to the light? That is what a switch does. It controls power to the circuit it is installed on. What else would it be useful for if it doesn't turn a circuit on or off?


u/KD2JAG · 1 pointr/smarthome

That's probably the route I'm going to take.

and for context, I am 24 and the "apartment" in this case is my room at my folks house as I still live at home. No lease violations to worry about.

Now, if I purchase something with Z-Wave like this (, will I also have to buy a controller?

I'd prefer it to just work over WiFi which I know the WeMo switch will do but the GE one is a bit cheaper.

u/yoderdave · 1 pointr/smarthome

I have 4 bulbs in lamps that aren't on a switch and these work well because you just leave the lamp turned on. I have one switch that controls a smart bulb and I am considering changing to a smart switch like this as it too easy for someone to turn off my bulb. I don't believe that the power drain is huge leaving the switch on at all times but don't have any equipment to measure the power usage.

u/laboye · 1 pointr/homeautomation

The best I've come up with for this scenario is to either:

  • Like /u/Alwayssunnyinarizona mentioned, expand the gang box so you can add both a Z-Wave dimmer & a Z-Wave fan controller (like the GE 12730) side by side. Since you already have the separate fan and light wiring, this isn't too bad. You would need a drywall saw to expand the hole (or a small saw), [optional] tin snips to cut the old box out, a new 3-gang box and wallplate, and patience.

  • If you have the spare cash, Insteon makes the Fanlinc, which you can hide in the canopy. You could then add an Insteon KeypadLinc. Of course, the gadgets themselves are expensive, and you'd need to add an Insteon modem to your HA setup if you don't already have one. That said, it's as elegant as you'll get without modifying that box.

  • Finally, you could hide a micro dimmer and fan controller in the canopy and use an in-wall scene controller to make your HA hub command them. Not as elegant and more points of failure, but it'll get the job done.
u/BakanoKami · 1 pointr/winkhub

There's a z-wave module to control a ceiling fan that doesn't come with a remote, but the Hampton Bay one is cheaper too. I always wanted to pick up the zwave one, but it didn't look like anyone ever tried one with a Wink.

Side note, one of my ceiling fans is the type that has all the buttons on the wall switch. Anyone know if there's a Wink replacement for that?

u/ohhhUmad · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Insteon makes a product for just this. Pair it with a 6 button controller and you’ll have separate control and speeds.

Insteon 2475F FanLinc Insteon Dual-Band Ceiling Fan and Light Controller

Keypad Dimmer Switch (Dual-Band),

u/Ashe_Faelsdon · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

well, I just learned which did which, but maybe this is a more modern facet of ceiling fans... but I guarantee this isn't all ceiling fans... (also, I like the new ones that have a lightbulb and fan toggle at the bottom of the chains... like these:

u/xXAndrew28Xx · 1 pointr/QMEE

Amazon Page 8c * 6 (48c)

u/krogg62 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You might think about a humidity switch like the one below. I have a couple, and they work great. Comes on when the humidity in the bathroom increases. You can turn them on manually, too, when the “issue” isn’t humidity.

Leviton IPHS5-1LW Decora In-Wall Humidity Sensor & Fan Control , 3A, Single Pole, White

u/Z5qZCUDE9 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

is this the kind of humidistat you were referring to?

u/73IRS · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I used these for all motion sensor switches and these for the humidity sensor fan switches.

u/TheTacoPete · 1 pointr/arduino

I'm all for DIY and in most cases even prefer it over when something is available in retail but I think in this case something like this just seems much more sensible

u/Amuseph · 1 pointr/SmartThings

Nabbed this:

They're right that they can be a little finicky but I don't have any issues with the 2 that I bought. We have rocker switches next to them so they fit nicely in the covers we got

u/Kittamaru · 1 pointr/DIY

Hm... that sounds like a good idea. I'd presume it just runs off the 110v line?

What I'd need to figure out is how to turn it on with the main fan.

Here is the one I have

From the switch to the fan, is a trio of wires, one of which is, I believe the controller signal... I'd probably have to tap the controller on the fan to have it directly controlled...

Alternatively, I guess I could run a patch off the other switch that only controls the lights over the sink... have it run from that?

Or, take it a step further, and use a humidistat with a timer to control the inline fan... something like this Leviton model maybe (though it has questionable reviews...)

u/chrisbrl88 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

The amount of air it'll move is honestly more important than a humidity sensor. If you want that functionality, just install a humidity sensing switch in the wall instead of a toggle. A sensor integral to the fan is just one more part to fail, and a switch is cheaper to replace than a whole fan. You want a fan that will move 1 cubic foot of air per minute per square foot of floor space at a minimum. If you've got a 7x10 bathroom, you want a 70 CFM or better fan.

u/ThrowmeawayAKisCold · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

Own your very own from Amazon or Lowe's. There are also other decorative items, such as soccer balls or a fish or fake diamonds/crystals that I have seen there in the past.

u/Terra99 · 1 pointr/smarthome

So I'm looking at this fan control and this light switch. That should do it?

u/bhrnd · 1 pointr/smarthome

Not sure how long they’ve been around (I just bought them last month), but these are ones I have: GE Z-wave fan switch

u/NavySub · 1 pointr/smarthome

Here’s what I used with Alexa/ST. New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14287

New Model : GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14294

u/syntax021 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

If it's just a normal dual gang box then I'd just put two switches in. Also note that there's a specific switch for fan control. I have the same setup with one dimmer switch and one fan control in the same box.

Edit: See this topic about the fan control for a better explanation than what I could give.

u/autohome123 · 1 pointr/homeassistant

thanks for the reply.
couple questions. I do have the GE fan controller on a Gen 1 hub but they show up in my Wink as a dimmer (GE brand but no model number, just 'Dimmer'), not a fan.

  1. Do you suggest I remove these devices and add them again (hoping they get added a fan now?)?

    If I take this route how do i add this so it's identified as a fan? I see options to add a GE switch (no GE fan or GE dimmer), and there is no option for GE fan switch under the fans section.
    I believe i added my fans like this back in the day but they show as switches. What changed that would cause these to now get added as fans? Is it possible Wink had an update which now identifies these as fans rather than dimmers?

    Is it not possible to force HA to identify these as fans (like i do in HomeBridge)? something like:

    "fan_ids": [
u/SirEDCaLot · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Okay let's start from the beginning- each of your devices needs to be machine-controllable.

Lights- you can use smart bulbs (Hue etc) or you can use lighting controllers (smart light switches, plug-in dimmer modules, etc). Either way you'll either need a network like Z-Wave or Zigbee or Insteon to control them, which will require a USB RF interface. You could use all WiFi devices but I don't recommend this.

TV- that probably means infrared. Some TVs you can control by serial port, other TVs you can control with network traffic. 99% chance infrared is your best bet though.

Fan- if this is a plug-in fan you can use a plug-in switch module. What kind of fan is it?

Xbox- probably via IR.

Voice control- Alexa or Google Home.

Hub- Home Assistant works, HomeSeer costs money but might be easier to set up.

So to break this down, you need to find a way to interface all these devices with your hub. Let's assume you're using HA.

For the lights, you need a primary control technology, that'll be Z-Wave, Zigbee, Insteon, etc. I suggest Z-Wave as it's got better support in both Home Assistant and HomeSeer. That unfortunately rules out Hue bulbs, but it means you can instead get nice Z-Wave smart light switches and use your existing bulbs. Here's a popular one. If you want super controllability check out the HomeSeer branded switches- they'll work fine with Home Assistant, they have several LEDs that you can program to do whatever, you can decouple the switch (so pushing the button doesn't turn on the light but rather sends a Z-Wave command), program double/triple/quadruple tap actions, etc.

Note that if you really really want Hue lights, Home Assistant and HomeSeer both (somewhat) support ZigBee. You can also buy a Hue Bridge, which is basically an Ethernet-Zigbee interface that's Hue-proprietary, and link that to HA or HomeSeer.

Fan- if it's a plug in fan you need a plug-in appliance/switch module. Here's one. If you have a ceiling fan type thing you'll need a ceiling fan switch. Here's one of those (HomeSeer makes one too).

IR (TV, Xbox, etc)- probably BroadLink devices or Global Cache iTach. Note that if you try HomeSeer, Global Cache works, Broadlink I think does not.

Voice commands- How to integrate Alexa and Home Assistant.

u/mverley11 · 1 pointr/Hue

I have the Broadlink RM-3 mini and I'll be honest, if I had spent more than the $15-ish that I did, I'd be really upset with myself. Granted, I used it to control other devices (a TV, surround sound, and split AC), but it was very... Touchy.

In my bedroom, however, I used this:

It'll eliminate the need for the IR blaster, and will allow you to control the lights separate of the fan--and vice versa (although, if the fan is "off" and you turn it "on," the lights come on too, so you then have to turn those off via your [Alexa, Siri, Google] if you don't want them on). Fairly easy to install; took me less than 20 minutes.

If that's too much, maybe the Harmony Logitech remote? I've heard good things about them, and they seem to work with everything.

u/Szath01 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I am legitimately curious. This is my setup. I bought a basic fan/light combo and hooked it up to one of these for fan control.

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287

Then I hooked up the light to the matching zwave on/off. I can control both phone phone, wall or Alexa via smartthings. This was my test run before I set up the entire house like this. If there is a better way I am open to it.

u/redroab · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Sorry, by fan controller I mean basically a switch that would require a hub. For example you could get this z-wave switch:

And a smartthings hub (or rpi with home assistant). Like I said, I recommend this approach in particular if you want to get more into home automation.

u/ritchie70 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

GE has a fan control switch/dimmer.

u/asupernothing · 1 pointr/Hue

There's not a lot of options that will support the switch/ fan combo. If you are running hue bulbs, you can just remove the light switch completely. Then use this:
New Model: GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Works with Amazon Alexa (Hub Required), 14287

It will require a z- wave hub, but if you have one already, it will give you smart control of the fan, and with the lights in the always on position you will just use your smart controls for those as well.

u/glass__jaw · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I use these for two fans in my house. They work fine and never had an issue. I do wish they had some display LEDs so you could see what setting (low led high) you were on. Other than that they work great.

u/mrmackster · 1 pointr/HomeKit

I am following along with:

HomeAssistent added native HomeKit support, and fan support has been merged, but it can't do speeds yet. And I will probably eventually pair it with this:

This of course depends on the eventual price of the iDevices switch. I also don't like fans with lights so I don't need one that does both (the GE only does fans)

u/DeathFromMAGIC · 1 pointr/homeautomation

The switched I used to control fan is below and have had no issues since installing. Again this is just for the fan though as all my fan fixtures in my home were wired to have lights and fan on a separate switches

GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Controls Fan Speed ONLY, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287

u/cpverne · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I have the same thing. I logged into the SmartThings IDE and noticed that the Fan Dimmer that shows up correctly is listed as:

>GE In-Wall Smart Fan Control
>MSR: 0063-4944-3034
>manufacturer: Jasco Products


However, the one that Google Home shows as a Light is listed as:

>GE In-Wall Smart Dimmer
>MSR: 0063-4944-3131
>manufacturer: Jasco Products


Both of them were purchased from Amazon:

Chris Jackson's z-wave database shows the 3131 model as:

>Manufacturer: Jasco Products
>Manufacturer ID: 0063
>Name: ZW4002 Device
>Description: In-Wall Smart Fan Control
>Category: HVAC
>References (Type:Id) 4944:3131

My guess is that SmartThings is reporting it incorrectly.

u/Apple2T4ch · 1 pointr/smarthome

Since you already have SmartThings, why don’t you just get a zwave switch? Such as this one here
Honeywell Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Dimmer Switch, In-Wall Paddle, Interchangeable White & Almond | Built-In Repeater & Range Extender | ZWave Hub Required - SmartThings, Wink, Alexa Compatible, 39351

Zwave is far more reliable than Wi-Fi, I haven’t tested Lutron but I assume Lutron uses wi-if. Z-wave is a low power frequency making the device smoother.

And if you want extra functionality choose this:

HomeSeer HS-WD200+ Z-Wave Plus Scene-Capable Smart Dimmer Switch w/RGB LED indicators | Built-in Repeater Range Extender | Works with Alexa, Google Home & IFTTT (Hub Required) | Works With SmartThings

This switch can use of its leds to show the status of a door, light, garage door, lock etc.

u/dredgehayt · 1 pointr/homeautomation

using this one

Looks like yes they do

u/Rocketman574 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If the GE switches are unavailable or too expensive, there's a Honeywell branded version of the exact same switch. I ordered 5 of these yesterday:

u/andythetwig · 0 pointsr/Vive

I bought two of these because they are a bit more solid than the ones I saw at B&Q. The problem isn't that they will fall down because of the weight, but tiny vibrations which are exaggerated when the lighthouses are mounted on brackets.

I also bought these brackets, but they are a bit fiddly and there are simpler ones - there are some designed for mounting gopros onto bikes that look pretty good.

u/jryanishere · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

Depends. Do you want to start automating your home? Or do you just want a solution to solve this particular problem?

Universal Thermostatic Ceiling Fan and Light Remote Control Conversion Kit

I have that in my guest bedroom and it works OK. You key in a setpoint. It will start to slow the fan down as it gets closer to the setpoint eventually turning it off when it reaches the desired temp.

If you want to start automating your home, what would you rate your technical skills like?