Best chemical restraint gloves according to redditors

Here's a costume if anybody actually wants to dress up:

Chemsuit

Respirator

Gloves

"Meth"

All links are to Amazon.com

edit: Took out the referrals to sellers in the links.

Shoot, I could order most of that stuff right now on Amazon and get it next-day delivered...

3M 1860 N95 RESPIRATOR AND SURGICAL MASK Box of 20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S395R8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ZMQpub07HVFJC

3M TEKK Professional Chemical Splash Goggle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZXTPS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bPQpub0RQE4NA

Dupont Large Yellow Tychem Qc Chemical Protection Coveralls https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QQFHI8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_.PQpub1W063X0

Atlas 772 X-Large 26-inch Nitrile Elbow Length Chemical Resistant Gloves - Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004URYB7W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AOQpub02769FY

Not to mention industrial suppliers like Grainger or McMaster Carr that have that kind of gear and can rush deliver. There really is no excuse.

Explosive Elephant Toothpaste!! edited to correct ingredient - and update notes

My goal was big, shooting foam steams! I tried other methods and recipes - but this worked best!

What is happening in elephant toothpaste: hydrogen peroxide is made up of two hydrogen and two oxygen molecules. This is one extra oxygen molecule than water. Hydrogen peroxide is very unstable; it keeps wanting to lose that extra oxygen molecule. In this experiment, we use potassium iodide as a catalyst to knock off that extra oxygen molecule very quickly, and soap to capture those molecules of oxygen in foam.

I tried this with two different flask types: 2L Erlenmeyer flask and 2L graduated cylinder.

For each flask I needed the following:

• 250ml 35% H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide)
  
• 50ml 4 molar KI (dry, granular potassium iodide)
  
• a bit of dish soap
  
  To get (my best approximation of) 4 molar KI, I put 35 mg of nearly-pure granular KI in a small glass measuring beaker, and filled it to 50 ml with cool tap water.
  
  If you use smaller flasks, you will need to cut the ingredients by about 1/2.
  
  I was able to buy the chemicals and all the flasks online. Please be careful with the hydrogen peroxide – it will burn your skin at this concentration.
  
  The result is soapy water - but there may be some residual hydrogen peroxide. Simply rinsing the area well should be sufficient.
  
  Steps:
  
  Pre-make the KI solution, and measure out all other chemicals.
  
  USING GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION
  
  -- Put 250ml H2O2 in each flask
  -- Put ~25-30 ml of dish soap in each flask
  -- Add a few drops food coloring of color desired (complicates clean-up - be warned!)
  -- QUICKLY add 50 ml KI solution to each flask and jump back!
  
  Notes:
  
  The graduated cylinder produces a thick pillar of foam, the Erlenmeyer flask produces more of a jet.
  
  The chemicals should be added by an adult.
  
  If you film this, be sure to have the person filming stand back, and be prepared to capture an 8 to 10 foot jet coming out of the flask.
  
  Shopping list (what I used):
  
  This puts out a thick column of foam:
  213I16 Karter Scientific 2000ml Glass Graduated Cylinder, Single Metric Scale ‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006UKIBKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8OuWxbG8YRB8N‬
  
  This puts out a narrow/taller jet of foam - I now have three:
  2000ml / 2L Narrow Mouth Erlenmeyer Flask with Heavy Duty Rim ‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q34D0HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rQuWxb4708ZVJ‬
  
  Pure Health Discounts Certified 35% Hydrogen Peroxide with 1 oz Bottle Dropper - 32 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AKIGJW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YD4pzbZTGXC86
  
  Potassium Iodide, High Purity Crystals, 99.8 % min., 100 grams ‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D8161I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PTuWxb0N94SZQ‬
  
  Atlas Glove 620 Atlas Vinylove 12" Double Dipped Gloves - Small (they come in different sizes) ‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002PJ0WRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nUuWxbSQCV77N‬
  
  Learning Resources Primary Science Safety Glasses (good size for kids) ‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZLSWFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SVuWxbBKKKD9R‬
  
  Heathrow Scientific HD15909 Spatula with Flat End and Spoon End, 9" Overall Length (optional - but good for mixing the potassium iodide) ‪https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061OT1A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qSuWxbA6R27C3‬
  

Gloves here

Mostly shramps and some neons

I own aquariums and have cats and dogs (I used to have rats! RIP Margo and Lilac). I am also a nurse, so I am constantly washing my hands.

• Don't use alcohol based hand sanitizers.
  
  
• Get a moisturizing hand soap for home (I use softsoap, its pretty cheap).
  
  
• I use these gloves when I am rearranging/cleaning out my aquarium to protect my skin from the chemicals.
  
  
• This hand cream is awesome. Even if you just apply it in the morning when you wake up, and at night before bed, you will notice a difference. Its small enough that I can keep it in my scrub pockets and apply it after washing my hands every once in a while throughout the day.
  
  
• You can slather your hands in moisturizer/vaseline before bed and put on some gloves like these while you sleep. I have tried it a few times, and it makes my hands soft, but it feels weird to sleep with gloves on.
  
  
• You could try using something like New-Skin on your hangnails instead of band aids to protect them from bacteria while they heal. They are less unsightly and the rats are less likely to pick them off.
  
  Those are all the tips I can think of right now! Hopefully something in there is useful!

No problem!

Here you go :)

Ok here's the plan.

hasmat suit 7.50


Mesh tape 3.99

rubber gloves 5.99

Weapon 1.99

Total: 19.47

Suit up, mesh tape gap in gloves and over face hole. Swat at ants like my life depends on it. It's going to be a tough fight with such a constrained budget but it's the best plan I can come up with under budget. I splurged on better gloves since the low weapon budget left me with a rather short melee weapon.

A slightly higher budget would have allowed me to suit up and spread Diatomaceous earth $12.97 (replace the gloves with cheaper ones and skip the swatter) instead of resorting to melee attacks. 30 bucks would greatly increase my chances as survival as i could spread it around and just avoid the ants as best i could.

If survival isn't a win condition then

undiluted Bifen i/t $16.02

spray bottle $2.24

total: $18.26

This shit is serious stuff. Cover all the floor surfaces as wide i can. No ants will survive the room for the next few years.

Check it out... Went on Amazon and totally one-upped your stuff

The suit

The Gloves

The Mask

The hood (extra neck protection)

The centerpiece...

You can be Ebola-free for the low, low price of $70!

Get some really heavy duty PVC coated gloves and some nice wool liner gloves. Your hands will stay toasty and dry.

These are a bit bulky but they are long and get the job done for the wash portion of the job on really cold days.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

Latex gloves, facemask that protects against viruses - I believe 3M makes a mask that is N95 (n95 is good but N100 is even better or you can buy a regular gas mask and then just make sure to get NBC filters), hazmat suit, BLEACH, contractor bags for waste, plastic sheeting/tarp if you need to seal your windows/doors, duct tape!!

Edited - even better than latex gloves are these

2nd Edit - don't forget to cover your shoes! You could use contractor bags with duct tape if you don't have shoe covers.

Something you need to mention to a doc about. Mean time only thing that I could think of would be arm length gloves. (For if you want to be a mad scientist)

Here’s the ones I bought recently to replace the pair that I have been using for twenty years SHOWA Best Glove 620-XXL-11 Size... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YZO52DM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It’s not that hard to find good gloves for use with chemicals, but it is hard to find them in a size that fits me

@/u/Verchie


https://www.amazon.com/772-Nitrile-Length-Chemical-Resistant/dp/B004US9VKS


https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-21080-L/Chemical-Resistant-Gloves/Showa-Atlas-772-Chemical-Resistant-Nitrile-Gloves-Large?pricode=WB1391&gadtype=pla&id=S-21080-L&gclid=CjwKCAjw9L_tBRBXEiwAOWVVCbPb70qaAwhyO3PD4GjuONCK45Y2D6ci5VOks-gO35gHk1DDsb2xTRoCBJMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


For when they tear eventually and they will.


https://www.amazon.com/your-orders/pop?packageId=1&ref=ppx_yo2_mob_b_pop__fp_8_pp&orderId=111-7491173-4545039&lineItemId=kmrnrrjtnjpnony&shipmentId=DH37wYnwT

This is the correct answer. I got these and love them. Only $13

Showa Atlas 772 M Nitrile Elbow Length Chemical Resistant Gloves, 26", Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004US9VKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_8e80Cb1XR0JMW

Here is just the first one of the search. https://www.amazon.com/UltraSource-Unlined-Nitrile-Chemical-Resistant/dp/B00SF7PMU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=nitrile+gloves+11+mil&qid=1567527123&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Edit: alternatively you could get a nitrile coated fabric glove. They would last longer.

Here's my advice on this one:

• Use a heavy ankle length rubber apron (something like this). The vinyl ones get attacked by the oils in the food and will harden and crack after about two weeks. The long apron is important, if you get a short one the water will drip off of the apron, wick down your pants legs and pool in your boots. Stitched neck straps are more comfortable, but the stitching fails. Grommeted ones with a tied on neckstrap last much longer, but the narrow strap will saw into your neck. See below on how to mitigate this.
  
• Wear a tall rubber boot, tuck your pants in said boot. I had a pair of SFC Guardian IVs during my time in the pit. Get really thick work socks- These boots don't breathe and your feet will sweat. Get steel toed boots, a stack of sheetpans will put you in a cast.
  
• Get a collared polo-shirt made of an athletic type material. Walmart's got them in a kind of spandex/under-armor like fabric. Wear it as an undershirt for your work uniform. Wear the strap of the apron under the collar so it doesn't chew up your neck.
  
• If you want gloves get a pair of shoulder-length gloves. Make sure they have an elastic lined opening and are one piece. The ones that have a big funnel like arm will fall off, and the ones that look like Walmart dish gloves with a sleeve stitched to them leak. Look for something like this. Get the thick ones that will handle heat, some fucker is going to pull a pan right off the line and leave it at your sink with the bottom of it still at 300F.
  
• Powder your boots when you get home.
  
• Rinse the inside of the gloves in the sink sanitizer and store vertically, stand them up on big sticks (Broomhandle etc) Don't store them at the store unless you want them filled with roaches.
  
  Above was standard wargear for a 10-hour shift on the potsink at the student's mess for a large university. Good luck out there.

Sure! Get a large rubbermaid tub, a tube of silicone adhesive caulk, a couple wire coat hangers, and these gloves.

Cut holes in the tub to fit your arms, make rings from the coathangers just slightly larger than the holes. Cut the gloves the length you want them and curl the cuff around the wire. Use the caulk to glue the gloves in place in the box, and you're done!

I keep a can of clorox wipes in there to clean it out from the inside.

Gloves....just bought some new ones...lost the old ones...

try these...

Gloves with cotton lining.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BZ8K4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?qid=1425485591&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=cleaning+gloves+with+cotton+lining

UXglove Chemical Resistant Gloves,Waterproof Reusable Dishwashing Household Cleaning Protective Safety Work Heavy Duty Industrial Rubber Gloves,12.6", https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2BFYFZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2D1K3e7rlZDyr

Here's what I use. I like the longer gloves to cover some of my forearms. Around 80% consistent efficiency with no sparging and just squeezing.

Haha I like "lawnsaver!" Maybe a future reality TV show title.

Anyway, back to it...

• The herbicide you posted: Yeah, much better. Did you buy a sprayer too or are you planning on hooking this up to your hose and just going to town? Both should work, though spot spraying - in my experience, at least - is much more effective and better for your lawn. Remember, herbicides are chemicals that kill plants. If you use them at the right levels they won't kill your grass but if you make a mistake and go too hard you'll end up with dead weeds and dead grass. No bueno.
  
• Roundup: Okay, this is a big subject, but I will keep this as brief as I can: there is virtually no evidence suggesting that glyphosate causes cancer. There is a lot of evidence that shows it is less toxic to the human body than things like coffee. The recent court case you probably heard about reveals more about how juries can be swayed on emotional arguments than it does about the toxicity of this chemical, in my opinion. That said, there will be some people who beg to differ; I would look at the facts they present - if they present any at all - very carefully. What I do whenever I use any herbicide is wear PPE (personal protective equipment): long pants, long sleeves, a solid pair of gloves and a solid pair of boots. If I am spraying glypho I'll even wear a mask to appease my lady. But scientifically that is completely unnecessary. If for some reason you decide against using glyphosate there is an alternative, Natria. I have never used it myself but online reviews for it are terrible and it is incredibly expensive compared to generic glypho. It also takes far more time to work.
  
• Soil Test: No, a soil test will not tell you anything about fungus as fungus is something that takes place on the leaves of the grass and the soil test is going to tell you about the chemical makeup of, well, the soil. I am guessing your soil lacks basic nutrients but you are going to fix that in six weeks or so with your starter fertilizer. What I think you REALLY need a soil test for is knowing your pH. Once you know your pH you will know exactly how much lime to put down.
  
• Fungus: Here is a pretty good and very basic guide to lawn disease from Scotts. It won't take you more than five minutes to read through. If after reading it and examining your lawn you are sure you have a fungus issue - and not dead grass due to too much heat or too little water - than you can put down this. It is a Scotts product - and I'm not a big Scotts guy, in general, but this is an effective product - and will be available at any big box store. As mentioned in a previous reply, you will need a spreader of some sort to apply it.
  
• Basic Plan: Yeah, sounds good. Do you know what kind of grass you have? That will help you determine where your mowing height should be, but mowing high - say 4" - this time of year is a good thing, particularly if you are experiencing a lot of heat.

I used insulated rubber gloves when it was below freezing. I'd wear them when I was sponging, then swap out for thinner gloves to squeegee.


something like this works well.
https://www.amazon.com/DS-Safety-Waterproof-Comfortable-Multipurpose/dp/B07T664HCT


https://www.amazon.com/FrogWear-Insulated-Waterproof-Flexible-Resistant/dp/B0169GX7WQ

I live in NY and wash the car with regular water while wearing these gloves

I was thinking just chemical gloves like these. I'm going more "Tesla, wizard of electricity " than Frankenstein.

I've been using Venom Steel Nitrile Gloves in my shop and they are good, but not as thick as you'd like. However, Liberty Glove & Safety make some 15 mil nitrile gloves.

I'm not sure if these would be wearable in the office, but these held up through wear that shredded my arcteryx gloves in about a month. They worked for fuel caps on aircraft and writing, but I'm not completely sure I could shoot in them, but I also think I got a size too big.

The best thing you can do for warmth is getting a pair of liners. They worked without liners for my california born pansy ass working night shifts outdoors in Utah, where it got down to just below 0F at the coldest though.

http://www.amazon.com/Ansell-ActivArmr-Resistant-Chemical-Gauntlet/dp/B009EALBAA

These one's might be a bit easier on the eyes, though I don't have any personal experience.

http://www.ansell.com/en/Products/Gloves/DIY/Hyd-Tuf-52-502.aspx

There's also some driving gloves on amazon as well for dirt cheap.

Hood
Window tint for inside the hood
Suit
Gloves
Duct tape

You can't do much about the cold unless you have heated water in your buckets (perhaps even bucket heaters to keep the water warm). You just need to keep your skin dry, so you'll want long cuffed gloves. Something like these work. I don't personally have those, just been eyeing them. I bought a similar pair from a restaurant supply store (of all places lol). I'd make sure they are the right size because if they are too big, you'll lose hand dexterity.

Just buy a set of these or similar set of elbow length gloves.

What, I slow cook whole pigs and use an clean oil drum to pull the bones out....

These cheap, durable, textured, and LONG. Not incredibly heat resistant; I can reach into the mash and be Ok, but not the boil.

I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BZ8K4M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for $10. I don't think you can use them for bbq. I love how long these are as I can pretty much squeeze a 16lb bag of hot grains without burning my forearms.

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

https://www.amazon.com/NEW-GUARDIAN-MEDIUM-WEIGHT-GLOVES/dp/B07C9H3XT4/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1541639273&sr=8-6&keywords=guardian+gloves+butyl+rubber have these, made in usa and good quality, comes in a 2 pair too