Best computer ups units according to redditors
We found 1,364 Reddit comments discussing the best computer ups units. We ranked the 190 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,364 Reddit comments discussing the best computer ups units. We ranked the 190 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:
Headphones| Price
:--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99
Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart
Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26
CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)
PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)
Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart
HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)
Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)
Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart
MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125
I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.
 
EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!
 
EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal
 
EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**
 
Not who you asked, but I've had an APC BackUPS XS 1300 that I purhased in 2009. It's rated for 780w and a quick check shows that I'm using ~286w right now idling on my desktop and running my low power home server (i3, 6hdd, not much else). My PSU can do 1.2kw, but it just doesn't usually -idles around 200-300w for most work.
I used to use it to run my modem and wifi, but I moved to a 1Gb fiber provided that doesn't run UPS in my building network closets, so it's moot. They go down when the power does anyway. Now it just runs a monitor, server, and desktop. Server gets the USB connection to the UPS so it shuts down gracefully if needed.
I replaced the batteries once in 2013 for $30 and it's getting to be about time for another replacement here soon.
Since mine is older and discontinued now, I think you might want either the BR1300G or the BR1500G. If you get the latter you can get an external add on battery that triples battery life and doesn't require and ghetto car battery mods.
Extra plus with UPS - it has what's basically a built in kill-a-watt if you ever want to check wattage of your attached gear.
The 1350 VA cyber power is 180 not 80.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1350PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19M
That's not a UPS. UPS is Uninterruptible Power Supply. Essentially a surge protector with a battery that, assuming it doesnt trip/blow due to an electrical surge, can keep you PC running for a few minutes so you can do a clean shutdown and clean you normal power so your components last longer.
This is the one I use. It is the cheapest SINEWAVE UPS you can get (long story short, pure sinewave is better for your components). If you just want a cheap backup, this one is also good.
As a side note before i get spammed, yes I know the one I use isn't a true sinewave, but is infact many, many rapid steps that for all intents and purposes creates a sinewave.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536372612&sr=8-1&keywords=1500pfclcd
Remember, a UPS isn't meant to be a backup power supply. It's only meant to keep your system going long enough for you to do a proper shutdown.
Unless you're doing something insane like a server board with dual CPUs or quad-SLI, this one will be more than sufficient:
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0E0kDbGYW8M3X
If I'm spending a couple grand on equipment, I'll gladly pay $100-200 to keep it from getting fried. It will also safely shut down your computer in the scenario you lose power. I went with the 1500VA/900W model. Which is waaay more than I need, but allows for adding more equipment in the future. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/
uninterrupted power supply. It's basically a battery backed up surge protector. When the power goes off the batteries kick in and your computers don't immediately shut down.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1000G-Back-UPS-Uninterruptible-Supply/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1410881214&sr=8-5&keywords=uninterruptible+power+supply
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-Battery-BGE70/dp/B00NTQYUA8?th=1 this is the kind of ups you want its designed for low power devices like routers and has two usb ports for the pis and will actually run for several hours based on my experience with them
Here is what I got going on (top to bottom, left to right):
I have my monitor and keyboard sitting on a lack side table
Then on top of my lack side table on casters (I could no longer find it on ikea for the link, not sure if they stopped selling them?) I have:
an AT&T MicroCell - which is awesome since my office (and this closet) is in the basement.
NETGEAR R6250 - which is used for guest Wi-Fi access only.
ieGeek USB LVM switch (behind the NETGEAR)
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD UPS - Which is currently supporting only my 2 R710's for battery, the rest pictured for surge protection.
Then inside the lackrack:
Cablox Mini Cord Organizers stuck to the roof for clean cable management
Dell PowerConnect 5324 - 24 Port Gigabit
Dell R710 2x Xeon L5520, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 120GB Samsung SSD, 6x2TB Seagate NAS HDD
6x2TB in RaidZ2
Dell R710 2x Xeon E5530, 32GB RAM, 8GB thumb, 6x1TB Seagate Barracuda HDD
edit: listing stuffs..
That's USPS. They're talking about uninterruptible Power Supplies
It's all about DC vs AC and how DC is converted to AC.
DC is the type of power that comes from a battery and AC is the type of power that comes from your household outlets.
DC is always positive or always negative (always flowing in one direction) but AC changes between positive and negative very rapidly. In the US we use what's called a split phase system that gives us 120v for our homes but regardless of what voltage it is it will fluctuate between +120v and -120v and in our case it will do so 60 times a second.
Pure Sine
The way the electricity changes from positive to negative can be represented mathematically and on a graph where it would appear as a wave going up and down. The shape of that wave and mathematical properties of the wave determines the name. The power provided to your home is a pure or true sine wave and is a smooth flowing transition between positive and negative, to be precise it is given this name because of the trigonometric function 'sine'.
Modified Sine
A modified or simulated sine wave makes sudden transitions to predetermined voltages until it reaches the desired voltage. This would appear on a graph like steps going up and down. Because our devices are designed for the pure sine wave in our homes, a modified sine wave is obviously less desirable. Different devices respond differently to modified sine waves, anything with an AC powered motor tends to have the toughest time and in some cases not work at all (like a ceiling fan) depending on the quality of the modified sine wave (how many steps).
DC > AC
Converting the DC from our UPS's battery to AC requires what we call an "inverter", a device that switches the power back and forth between positive and negative and also increases the voltage. A basic inverter that produces a modified sine wave will power most things but might have fewer steps between voltages to make the transition. A nicer one might have many more steps but the nicest inverters will actually fully simulate the smooth sine wave we have in out homes.
An inverter that produces a pure sine wave will be much more expensive but has a few benefits:
UPS
As far as a UPS goes, like I said, modified sine is usually fine and getting a pure sine is not usually worth the extra cost. If you loose power frequently and have a ton of money in equipment invested already, then maybe it's worth it to you.
If your new to choosing a UPS you should also know that all these UPS in this form factor will basically have the same amount of run time. They all have a ~9Ah battery in them and the only difference besides features is how much of load the inverter can take. This inverter has a very high load capacity considering its size and battery capacity and would work for almost any PC, even with multiple monitors, router and modem hooked up. The catch is that if you run this at capacity you might only get a couple minutes out of it. If you are more interested in run time you would want to get something more like this that has two batteries: https://amzn.com/B000FBK3QK
The strips may be fine but I've seen far too many reports of their UPS's catching fire to trust their engineering. Their top selling UPS on amazon has 3 pages of people saying it caught fire
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/product-reviews/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_viewopt_kywd?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=1&filterByKeyword=fire#reviews-filter-bar
I've done that exact setup.
2 of these.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-NanoStation-Dedicated-Management-NS-5ACL-US/dp/B078NN1J4K/
1 of these for within the barn
https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-GREENnet-Switching-Protection-TPE-TG82G/dp/B074PXNRFH/
1 of these for inside the house:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-PoE150S-Injector-Adapter-compliant/dp/B001PS9E5I/
If you want wifi out there you can do a LR:
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFi-UAP-AC-LR-Single-Version/dp/B01609AF22/
Cameras you can use a variety. but even at 4k resolution with h264 you're at 75 mbps with 4 cameras at 30fps.
one camera option:
https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Outdoor-Security-Surveillance-Waterproof/dp/B0776S8N8X/
edit: i also suggest a battery backup to clean power up in remote buildings. esp if they're old
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
my paranoid safety senses are tingling
i would strongly suggest investigating what is cutting your power so consistently. my first thought is about circuit breakers tripping, but you'd probably know if someone had to flip them back on all the time. tally up all devices on the problematic home circuit. look at the labels for devices that are actively pulling power at any given time and make sure the total "output current" does not exceed preferably 80% of your circuit's rated ampacity (typically 15 amps in the US). if it's a whole house outage, i'd get professional help because this could potentially become a fire hazard
if someone can back up their claims on why they think a PSU can be damaged by its power dropping, i'd be interested in hearing it. i personally don't believe so. i DO believe though that when your OS is performing a task (even if you have no idea it's going on), anything stored in system memory or CPU cache will be instantly deleted and anything it was working on will not exist anymore. if your system is acting up now, it could be that it has happened enough times to become noticeable. at this point, you may want to reinstall your OS the fully manual way (not through windows 10's "refresh this pc" option)
and as someone else has already said, buy an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) for your PC and plug it and your monitor into the battery side. it will prevent power losses from affecting your system for some minutes after the outage, so you can save and shutdown until power is restored
Enjoyed 7 days without power (and therefore Internet) after Irma, and that's why I now have one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W
For computers, I recommend either of these units (or their lower wattage siblings where appropriate):
For networking equipment, something much lower end like the APC BE600M1 would be fine.
> Bonus points: simulated sine vs true sine; marketing gimmick or worthy investment?
Depends on the use case. For nearly any modern computer, you'll want true sine wave. Stepped waved UPSes often cause issues with modern 80+ certified PSUs which use Active PFC.
For other devices that don't have Active PFC PSUs, or just aren't all that sensitive, stepped wave is fine. Things like networking equipment, phone chargers, etc are fine on stepped wave.
I have to disagree with this deal. 84VA is like nothing, even though it's only $30. In contrast, this $43 unit gives 425VA.
I have this 1 a bit pricey but going on 4 years now it's likely due for a new battery soon it's still working like a champ CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_evHzDbX6ZCYSE
Here's one on the higher end for personal computers.https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
I run two at home for my desktop and media server, and a few dozen at work for the more critical user desktops.
Their price right now is just dumb, but if you watch sales I've seen them go for $120.
How the two people below can even conceivably think that there is a variation in stability and safety for electronic devices on a UPS is just unfounded knowledge.
YES OP. You can use a UPS such as this in your situation. Obviously the "safety" regarding your electronics varies on the actual UPS-model/make just like any other product.
A UPS is supposed to regulate your power, provide backup power in case of a power outage, and also act as a surge protector. READ what your UPS can do when you're buying it, they all have different level of protection and make sure to buy accordingly.
And to add a UPS is generally used as a back-up power supply so you have time to properly shut down your devices and unless you're buying an extremely high capacity UPS; you probably won't have much time to play for hours one end like a giant generator (Conceivably, again depends on the UPS) I.E. the ups would have to power both your console and tv to "run" and generally unless you have a LED tv, they eat up alot of watts = powers out quickly.
TLDR: Yes you can use a UPS with ANY ELECTRONIC DEVICE. But remember UPS is for temporary short-term backup power, don't expect it to power your stuff for hours on end.
One thing i'm certain about is that 500W is enough. Your graphic card needs power when doing tremendous amount of calculation like in a game, but doesn't need that much in order to start.
Do you have any way to get your GPU replaced ? If you can and the problem still appears, you'll know it's not GPU related.
Edit : if you often have power outages in your area, I strongly recommend you to buy a battery backup (a UPS, for "Uninterruptible Power Supply"), like this one. It will keep your PSU and the rest of your components safe.
I've read 20-25% more than what your system uses on average. I mean you're not going to be doing Intel burn-in tests while your power is out, probably not gaming either....but you do want some overhead...a 300-500w would be enough for most computers.
something like this little 600w guy would be great for most PC's
A UPS will absolutely correct brown-outs, and a surge protector will not. However, a UPS that small will likely not be able to supply enough power for all the equipment you describe, and may shut down unexpectedly if it switches to battery mode while the system is heavily loaded. I would expect your computer tower alone to be able to pull 275-300 watts under gaming load, and a monitor is probably 25-50 watts on top of that. Speakers and peripherals won't add much more, but you're still looking at 300-350 watts.
At an absolute minimum I'd go for something like this APC, but a few bucks extra on something bigger might be wise.
If you have outages that frequently, you should use one of these. It's not good for your computer or PS4 to have those surges all the time.
FYI, Amazon has CyberPower's 1500VA PFC Sinewave UPS (CP1500PFCLCD) on sale in both USA and Canada for $119.95 US or $155.99 CAD.
Amazon.com page
Amazon.ca page
I've been tracking the Canadian price at about $270 - 299 the past few weeks, but the lowest I've seen in for is $149.99 CAD in previous Black Friday deals.
THIS,
#ALLDAY! Perhaps it's due to the fact we live in an older home, but the number of times my battery backup(s) kick on over the course of any given month is much more than I'd care to think about, or admit. My lab servers are lacking proper UPS(es), as they're mostly for testing, learning, breaking, fixing... et cetera, but I absolutely run all my crucial networking gear off one tiny APC that'll keep the optical network terminal, router and wireless access point (via PoE) going for more than 2.5 hours in the event of a power loss. Summer storms can be a real bitch and it's nice to be able to sit around, or lie in bed at night and surf on our phones, tablets, laptop, etc. while the rest of the neighborhood is dark.My daily driver desktop also gets its own APC Back-UPS Pro 1500 because I fucked up and went cheap on the PSU for this machine I built and I don't trust the rest of such a hefty investment to handle the semi-regular power fluctuations we see. 1 Blackout and 1 "Electrical Noise" (both 5 seconds each) is all that the battery has had to intervene with/for over the past ~half a year, but I sleep better at night knowing my investment is protected. I have a couple virtual machines (namely Plex & Pi-hole) that I want to keep on ticking in the event of any issues with our electricity.
/u/PriceZombie: That's not the same model that's actually on sale. Here's the right link.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192
Absolutely. A standard UPS has special types of resistors and capacitors that either shunt large spikes (like from a lightning strike) to the ground pin, or self-sacrifice (blow themselves up) to take the brunt of the same. The regular wall AC voltage and frequency is still passed straight through. These sacrificial surge protection components only work when it's a HUGE spike.
The spikes caused by the collapsing magnetic field from the motor winding are small enough and last a short enough time (literally a snap, like a spark plug in a car) that a UPS doesn't "catch" them. The only type of UPS that would eliminate them are things like a pure sine wave UPS, where it takes the AC wall voltage, puts it through an isolation transformer and/or converts it to DC, and then re-converts that DC to AC. With those, you are effectively always running off of the battery, it just so happens the wall AC is also being used to charge the battery at the same time. Very rare in consumer equipment and fairly expensive.
Quick-ish explanation of isolation transformers: a regular transformer steps up or down AC voltages by having two wraps of wire wound around each other. The amount of voltage spike/drop is proportional to the number of wraps. If you have a transformer with an input winding of one wrap, and an output winding of ten wraps, you will get a 10x step up in voltage. 120V goes in, 1200V comes out. The input winding creates a magnetic field, and the output winding winds around that magnetic field, picking it up and creating an AC voltage. The reverse is also true: put 120v into the 10x winding, and 12V would come out of the 1x winding.
An isolation transformer is just an even number of windings on either side. For example, say 20 and 20. 120V goes in, 120V comes out, but there's no physical connection between the two. The electricity gets converted to a magnetic field, then back into electricity. Think of it kind of like a bungee cord in the middle of a rope.
The tiny, high-voltage spike from the bathroom fan wouldn't be able to affect that magnetic field in the isolation transformer (or, comparatively, not able to affect it as much), kind of like pulling that rope with the bungee cable in the middle. The elastic bungee would "smooth out" any small bumps or pulls from being felt at the other end of the rope, relatively.
I also still have a touch lamp. Somewhere...
I read your title and thought, "Hey, I'm waiting on my UPS too", then I realized we weren't talking about the same UPS.
I meant my CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W, MSRP of $260, snapped up for $130 when I saw it.
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD
Edit: Linked the wrong model. I actually have the PFC model. It has saved my work and equipment from loss so many times.
I have my router and modem on it too. When the power goes out, my WiFi light shines bright.
You could just use a laptop but battery backups like this are used on almost all show critical equipment.
Some of the more high end equipment even have their own built in batteries. For example, this $75,000 lighting console has a built in UPS. If the entire venue loses power your kinda fucked since all your lights are now off but at least you dont have to worry about your console's boot time once you get power back.
A few weeks ago I did a show in the mountains and we had a brownout right at the start of show. Only lost power for 2 seconds but that was enough time for our PA, projectors and arc lights to die. Nothing control wise died thanks to our UPSes and we were back to show within 30 seconds. My video switcher takes a minimum of 5 minutes to boot. Had it shut off we would have been screwed.
I do have a friend who in the middle of a concert had his incredibly expensive sound mixer fuck up and lost everything. The band had to stop and wait 5 minutes for him to rip open one of those little rolling racks and reseat a card or something. All things considered he got the show back up and running very fast.
I picked up one of these for my DS1815+. It was the cheapest name-brand UPS I could find that had USB control. Synology control panel says that it has 6448 seconds worth of power, which is about 100x longer than it takes the Synology to shut down.
I also keep my cable modem and router on the UPS. This allows the Synology to send me notifications during a power outage.
Okay, I've read through the other comments and feel I still have something to contribute as I've just set this up for my parents and plan to run it at my place some time in the future.
Let me know if any of this didn't make sense to you.
Cheers!
Edit: additions in bold above
Smaller, 600VA model also available for $45 ($75 - $30) on Amazon
900VA model rated at 480W, while 600VA model rated at 330W
An uninterruptible power supply or uninterruptible power source (UPS) is an electrical apparatus that provides emergency power to a load when the input power source or mains power fails.
This:
APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with USB Charger, 600VA, APC Back-UPS (BE600M1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T5QTCbAZQB04C
Morning everyone!
Every once in a while I like to come in here and ask what everyone's thinking of buying.
Nice to get an idea about things that I might be interested in grabbing or something that I should get for some peace of mind.
Earlier this week, my CyberPower UPS arrived in the mail (delivered by UPS. Coincidence? I think not!) and I can rest easy now. We've had some power surges, brownouts and blackouts recently.
Amazon has it around $28 as regular price.
Running on a Pi is a good call. I'd look into a ups. You can plug you main computer and your pi into it.
Edit link: Amazon 600 VA UPS
Here is my CR-10S.
I added the Petsfang fan fang. Added this fan to the fang.
I added these Z-Axis braces. Added these LEDs to the Z-Braces.
I'm printing on a mirror tile with a sheet of PEI bonded to it.
Last week I added the TH3D EZABL and have been encouraged by the results. It creates a Z-offset map of the build plate before every print. I can see the Z-steppers move during X-Y moves so I can tell it's working. Manual bed-leveling was working OK for smaller prints, but I could never get all 4 corners to agree with the center height. I suspect my aluminum bed plate is shaped like a Pringles chip.
I really like the Marlin Firmware over the OEM version. I don't mind not having auto-resume since I plugged my printer into a UPS system.
Right now my printer is about 20 hours into a 60-hour print of a T-Rex skull. I've been really happy with this printer! It was my first and I've been having a ball with it.
I know it’s nothing special, but this is my macsetup! I work primarily on video editing projects, some Photoshopping, with some Wordpress website building sprinkled in there. But this setup is used mostly for generic browsing, YouTube/Netflix, and Plex server hosting.
So this is my setup that I’ve built over the course of 4 years.
Hard Drive Toaster - StarTech.com HDD Docking Station
Little sumo man was a gift from a friend. Custom R2-series astromech droid was purchased a trip to Disney Paris. And I name my external hard drives after characters in movies and TV shows that I enjoy.
Let me know if you have any questions!
That Gigabit Modem/Router Combo looks pretty slick
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KW9T39C
810W UPS as well : https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19M
The hard part is going to be catching the random stuff that pops up on sale as that's where the good stuff usually is.
The "leaked" stuff that they show early is generally meh.
Right now, at about 40% load, my "gaming PC" (plus primary monitor, an LG 34-inch ultrawide, my fiber modem, my router, my wifi access point and my Drobo NAS) is drawing a total of 387 watts per the control panel on my Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD UPS ($200 at Amazon).
At this level of power draw, the UPS control panel projects 14 minutes of runtime. Keep in mind that flashing the BIOS is not a CPU-intensive process and the total power draw will be even lower during that procedure.
I own two of these. One for my PC and one for my networking hardware. Barely powers my PC ( I pull ~600W while gaming ), but gives like, 5-25 minutes of battery power. Auto shutdown too.
Cyber Monday deal... CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W
Found 2 deals on pure sine wave cyberpower UPS
Newegg - Cyberpower GX1325U 1325VA 810W - $110
Amazon - CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD 1500VA 900W - $130
Edit: B&H Photo has the CP1500PFCLCD for the same price as Amazon.
I used a kill-a-watt to see what my power draw was. Then I made the calculations from the wattage draw. There are online calculators that can help. With the ups I bought I can get about 45 mins of uptime with an outage.
This is what I got.
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_uQYAR1HA6GHqI
It's anyone's guess how accurate ASUS anti-surge is, but, if you have a lot of brown/blackouts in your area, you might want to look into a UPS which can save your PSU and PC from damage. Outside of that,
>If my PSU is going bad, are there any other signs it should be showing?
your PC turning off suddenly
I could give you a longer and more detailed answer if you want one, but I'm going to start simple.
The one edxmon linked would probably be fine. Depending on your rig and monitor size and blah blah you'd likely be able to squeeze between 4 and 10 minutes of run time out of it if all you connected was the computer, the monitor, the modem, and your router. The fewer things you connect the longer it would run (so leave the modem and router off the battery if you don't care about being disconnected from the net during an outage).
I don't actually get power outages much, but I do get a lot of periods where the lights in the house dim for a few seconds and then come back up, these periods can be dangerous for computers (in some ways more dangerous than an occasional outage) so I run something with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation, some times also called Advanced Voltage Regulation) which basically ensures that my computer gets a stable and level amount of power all the time, never too much and never too little, by using capacitors built into the UPS to regulate power flow.
This is the actual model I am using right now. I have one of my monitors (the primary one), the computer itself, the router, and the modem connected to it. This means that if the power goes out I don't lose what I'm doing or my internet connection. I've never actually run it until it died but it estimates 15 to 30 minutes of runtime for me in an outage (how much time you get varies greatly with what you're doing, your computer uses much less power when you're editing a document in word than it does when you're playing a game, so the times vary).
This model is inbetween the one linked by edxmon and mine in both price and performance but it still offers AVR.
One thing a lot of people overlook is using more than one UPS. Don't plug one UPS into another one (ever!) but you can connect two to the wall outlet and plug the computer and monitor(s) into one and the modem and router into the other. So if you wanted to start buy purchasing the least expensive one and seeing if it meets your needs you can do that and if it doesn't give you enough time (or you decide you want AVR later) you can buy another and divide items up between them.
Cyberpower or APC.
You're likely going to have to spend minimum $100 and have a size of at least 500W, and for three computers depending on the consumption, more like 750w. These usually come with the ability to power down a single computer.
These are the better "budget" brands of UPS units. Hopefully the unit has a voltage regulation feature for both dips and spikes.
Your electic bill will go up a bit, no matter what you do. Some are better than others.
I bought this a week ago when it was $94.95. Seems like a pretty good unit for the price and if you're looking to buy your first UPS I'd say this is a good choice.EDIT: Wrong model, I only read the brand name and the power rating. I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I picked up this from Amazon when I built my Ryzen build.
I used Outervision to have an idea of the kind of UPS I needed.
The Desk/Workspace:
PC:
Mac: 15" MacBook Pro, Core i7 2.5 GHz, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD
Usage:
I don't have a KVM, but I simulate having one. All my peripherals - keyboard, mouse, webcam, left & right monitors, are plugged into the USB hub. In PC mode, the USB hub is plugged into the back of the Dell monitor, which is in turn plugged into the PC. In Mac mode, the USB hub is plugged directly into the MacBook Pro. I keep both a DVI cable (for the PC) and a DisplayPort cable (for the Mac) plugged into the Dell monitor, and I use the monitor controls to switch inputs when going between platforms.
I know there are software solutions for sharing keyboard/mouse between computers, but I'm generally working on one computer or the other - I'm rarely, if ever, working on both.
I use the MacBook Pro for daily work (Java/web development, Photoshop/Illustrator), and the PC for hobby work (C#/.NET) and gaming.
The MBP is thin enough that I can slide it under the keyboard to get a total of 4 screens. I generally use the MBP screen for Skype & Campfire windows.
EDIT:
T-Rex Themed Art for those interested, clockwise from the left:
If it goes out that frequently, then yes it could have some adverse effects. The main one being if it loses power during a write operation to the HDD or cloud such as saving a game. For instance if your game is trying to save and the power goes out right in the middle of it doing it, when you try to load back up your save might be corrupted and you may lose your progress in the game. You may be totally screwed and have to start over, or you may only lose some progress between when your last save was uploaded to the cloud.
Since I'm assuming there's not much you can do about the outages where you live or being able to move where the utility is more reliable, the best way to protect yourself from future headache is to get one of those UPS battery backup power supplies that they use for computers and stuff to prevent against blackouts such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484415526&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+battery+backup+%26+surge+protector
What you do is plug your entertainment center into one of those and when a blackout happens it will keep enough power to your console for a few hours to operate until the power from your utility comes back on. For example, you notice the power goes out such as your lights in your room go out, but your console and TV will still be on if plugged into one of those. You then are able to finish up whatever it is you were doing, save your game, then shut down your console properly without danger of something happening until the power comes back on. They also protect against surges. If you are a little bit more flexible with your budget, you can also look into something called a 'line conditioner.'
Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.
After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.
A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.
In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:
Heater: Eheim 25 watt.
Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.
Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.
An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:
Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.
Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.
Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.
For plants Im thinking something like this:
Fluval Anubias 12'.
Fluval Lizard Tail.
Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.
Soil - ADA Africana.
Sand - something along that color.
I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).
Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.
APC es buena marca, te recomiendo este NOBREAK APC BR1000G https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Leu5Ab1KJFH20
I run this one -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00. Got it on sale for $97. It can connect via USB to a VM running on ESXI that can send a shutdown signal to your other hosts/machines. Won't power everything for long but has some good configuration options. Overall I'm very happy with it.
BBU's are never a waste of money! There is no better feeling than seeing the lights go out and having a computer running. Also, surge protectors only work on OVER current, they will do nothing for you in the middle of a brownout. Brownouts can hurt your computer just as much as a surge. Also, $200 is too much. Check this out. I have one and I love it.
Amazon has priced matched (checked at 10:51AM EST)
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0
Cyberpower 1000VA 600W AVR UPS
Got it for free from work. This thing works very nicely and even has a power draw monitor on it as well.
A cheaper option than a UPS, if you don't care about the battery backup feature, would be this. https://www.amazon.com/APC-LE1200-Automatic-Voltage-Regulator/dp/B00009RA60/ I had one of those for over 15 years, still works fine. I only had to buy a UPS because the power company has been getting even worse, and power has been going out completely on a semi-frequent basis.
If you want a UPS to be able to keep the whole computer on during a power outage, you'll have to do some shopping around and research. Not all of them can actually keep a modern computer on, you need one that outputs a sine wave, or at least a close enough approximation, for a modern PSU to work. This is the one I use. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
I don't think the one you linked will keep a PC on, but APC is a more reliable brand. I've actually had a much older CyberPower UPS have the battery start swelling up like a balloon. I only bought the brand again because an APC UPS that outputs a sine wave was like $600, but don't know if they might have a cheaper one now.
edit: They do have a cheaper one now. https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1000G/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/
http://smile.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-Back-UPS-6-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B001985SWW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463872202&sr=1-3&keywords=APC+UPS
I have to use one because of occasional brownouts messing with my Pi/Arduino.
According to a few measurements I took on a clients 1815+ with 8 drives I recorded 29W sleeping, 58W wake/idle and around 70W during a full load. To get an hour of runtime I threw this on it https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1000G/dp/B0038ZTZ3W and at load the APC shows about 66 minutes available. I got it for around $100. If you spent closer to your $200 you could get the 1500w one and get even more time.
Just read your update. The BN600G is what we call a bottom-of-the-barrel UPS. It's just a simple switch-over UPS with surge protection. No filtering or AVR. It won't help you much at all if your house is suffering from poor-quality power. You COULD do what others have said and just try to power your PC using the UPS, but that el-cheapo UPS outputs square wave instead of sine-wave and newer PC PSUs don't like that one bit.
Step up to a better quality UPS like the Cyberpower CP850PFCLCD. You can get higher-powered models for a bit more. This series does AVR and outputs sine-wave that won't stress PC PSUs.
Holy frick that is so much cheaper than the Cyberpower one I was going to buy (two of!) from Amazon.
Thanks!
Edit: Oh, it's cheaper because, despite APC's claims of PFC compatibility, it's a stepped sinewave output. Rip. Thanks anyway!
Surge protects, like previously said, are good for like...MAYBE one little hit of bad weather. APC / UPS (they are the same thing) are designed, most of the time, with lightning strikes and really bad weather in mind.
We have them on all the computers at work, oh power went out...keep working for 10-20 mins getting everything saved that was open and then power down. Or if its just a small surge that briefly for a second kicks off power then you won't even lose power at all :)
I live in FL.... having a UPS is sooooo worth it. Doesn't even need to be crazy expensive. I have had this before and never a problem on my desktop with everything plugged in: UPS
Surge outlet for SMALL storm hits....would hopefully fry it before whatever is plugged into it : Outlet
So, let's do some math.
This is a pretty reasonable unit:
http://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Back-UPS-650/P-BE650G1
650VA / 390W @ 120V. $85/each.
Same Unit is $70 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Backup-Protector-BE650G1/dp/B005GZRUZW
So, lets call them $70/each.
$70 x 60 units == $4,200 every 2 years at random.
You probably need 100-200W per user of UPS power.
Lets split it and call it 150W.
150W x 60 users == 9,000W of UPS capacity.
Consider this large unit:
http://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-RT-15kVA-RM-208V/P-SURT15KRMXLT
APC Smart-UPS RT 15kVA / 12kW 208v in & 208v out.
$11,700 rough street price.
Add another $2,000 to install a new electrical panel.
Hardware this UPS to the panel.
Move all your users to that panel.
Drive them all off of a single UPS unit.
Yes. You just spent three times the cost.
But now you have a single large unit to monitor and maintain.
You can put new batteries in it every 2-3 years.
Thats a full on-line double-conversion UPS unit.
The users & attached devices will never see unfiltered power again.
If you want something more highly available, with greater redundancies, the Symmetra RT is the next larger hammer to drive this nail.
Having worked in a datacenter for quite a while, and with computers for some time, I've come to trust APC UPSs. The company I work for has had the Tripplites and the APCs, and it seems that the Tripplites seem to have a shorter life span. We also have all APC power systems installed in our datacenter, and they work quite well. Here's a link to the one I have for my MacMini and NAS. The [APC BE650G1] (http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE650G1-Saving-Battery-Back-UPS/dp/B005GZRUZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343073545&sr=8-1&keywords=APC+BE650G+650) will set you back $80 US, however just think about what it will save you if you had to replace that nice iMac from a lightning strike or something else. Now, how long the battery will last depends on how much you have plugged into it, I usually get about 10-15min with my rig. If you have a 5.1 home theater system, you may want to consider getting one of these for it as well. Call it peace of mind.
EDIT Added Home theater part, I have one for my expensive HT rig.
Get an inexpensive UPS (uninterruptible power supply) like this https://smile.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/?th=1. Plug in your rPis, router, and cable modem (or dsl modem). When my power goes out, I usually stay online via wi-fi because the cable modem signal is still active.
if you aren't having long outages, you could get a pretty small capacity one for less than $100. I use CyberPower, but APC is good too. Go for something like this (Amazon link)
$50 to protect a device that costs about the same or more? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
That sounds like an incredible pain in the ass.
This would probably help your situation though. $50 could solve a whole lot of headaches.
If you want to start playing, I suggest the APC 1500; https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06VY6FXMM/
Get a feel for your power requirements to run various things in the house (the UPS displays power load and run time estimate). A Kill-A-Watt is cool, but plugging your entertainment system into a UPS and then unplugging the UPS from the wall is really cool. Plug it in, yank the cord... no interruption or flicker... nothing. It just works.
Now imagine a whole house UPS like the powerwall kicking in. All is good, except the powerwall can't power everything. Your A/C for example. When we have power outages in Southern California, it's usually during very hot days where everyone is pulling from the grid for A/C. A/C is definitely something you want.
My solution was a combination of whole house backup generator, and individual UPS systems distributed to critical areas that don't prefer to see a 15-30 second outage. My lights still flicker :-(.
Now if I could get a whole house solution (UPS) that handled 100 amps for 30 seconds, I would be all set!
[Edit; heavy draw for a short period. Sounds like a job for super capacitors!]
2 600w LEDs and it doesn't exceed 850w on the whole smart plug.
power pictures
Edit: in the power pictures you can see I took extra precaution. Most everything in the tent has built in trips, but I don't trust those or my apartment. I bought these extension cords then routed every plug through one of those to my battery backup using a 1ft extension when needed. Finally, everything is going to a smart plug with energy monitoring so I can calculate what I cost the energy bill every month. This allows me to make sure I grow the value of what I spend on growing at least. So far, I'm still running about even at $40 a month.
Sure. Here's what I could pull from my orders and searching around. This is most of my gear. Not really "homelab" stuff. Have a crap ton of ethernet running around the house.
Coil Whine is typical if you have a very poor power supply or noise on your power outlets, usually due to old/poor wiring or possibly electric wiring problems.
I had coil whine on every graphics cards I've used for years until I finally bought a UPS which conditions the power to a clean 60Hz sinewave! A simple surge protector won't do a thing for this.
I bought this one and completely got rid of my coil whine issues:https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192
Also have a Seasonic X-850 power supply which a great PSU.. had some coil whine with this until I got the battery backup. It was significant worse though with my old PSU which was a Corsair 750w unit.
​
Battery backups, I have about 6. I got them for protecting my electronics but they come in handy for times like these. Plug an low watt LED bulb lamp into one of the packs for light.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_NcilDb5CJP9DP
A Swiss army knife, cause you never know.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00006IS69/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_TeilDbK97VAKG
Food that can be heated with a camp stove, I got the camp stove, a small pot, and the food from REI. Not always needed it's there for emergency and camping. A long click lighter and the long lasting candle as backup. Most important water, I have a Berkey that holds ~3.5 gallons, it's for filtering but holds enough on days the water needs to be shut off for drinking.
Kind of makes me sound like a survival nut, haha, however, life has just brought me things for separate needs, works out.
I prefer CyberPower over APC.
I have this one (http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=pd_sim_e_12?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GEVK7BJS39AB658HGJN) but it is available in a rackmount form factor as well. Super solid unit. Saved my ass more than once.
I use this cyberpower ups
I've configured my main pc to just shut down on power loss. which takes about 15 seconds. I tried to see how long it would run on battery, it ran about 40 mins. it runs my modem and router for about 2 hours. Mostly it just smooths out the power for me because the grid where I live is iffy. and it registers roughly 5-8 events per day. and Ive had it for almost a year and its still great.
Bummer. Here's another one.
The basic idea is you need a sine wave UPS to run motors, etc. There may be other ones that cost less, BTW, that was just the first one I found.
If you really want to get crazy, you can buy inverters that connect to 12v car batteries. I used to have one of these hooked up to 4 car batteries to run a small server farm. That thing would run for over a day, full load. Just be sure you get deep cycle batteries.
This is what I use and highly recommend. It's pure sine wave, cheaper than an APC and includes a super simple utility for configuring automatic shutdown. I had a simulated sine wave prior to this and although it worked my psu made a lot of awful noises when running of the battery so I'd urge you to spend the few extra bucks to get pure sine.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
The cli utility also provides lots of good info like remaining battery percentage, remaining runtime, and power draw. I found a nagios plugin for it and now I've got the data graphing in grafana so I can see how much power my server is drawing and average cost/year to run it. That part was just for fun of course but gives you an idea of how useful the utility is.
The cyberpower PFC line work pretty well, but run between $130 and $200.
Amazon Smile Link
I have the "Executive" model personally. The servers are on the bottom shelf (but I need to do something to make getting into the r510 easier since its the bottom of the two), the printer on the top, and the UPS sitting on the side in the closet in my office. Honestly, the loudest thing in the closet is a tossup between the UPS and the printer...
You definitely want to be running everything on a surge protector anyway. Even if you don't have a UPS, it's good protection in case of dumb shit like lightning strikes. That said. Something like this might be more than enough for your needs.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1300G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=pd_sbs_23_3?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=DX5G8YGTP86NACGTZ4DS&th=1
It's got surge protection, but more importantly, it also has ethernet protection. You can pass your ethernet from your router through it to protect against spikes if there's ever a storm. Depending on the type of modem you have, it could technically be a direct line for a voltage spike right into your equipment. Through the modem, then through the router, then down the ethernet cable right into your tower.
I have this UPS with two computers (pulling 400-500 watts each) and two monitors connected to the battery. last time power went out it estimated over an hour of battery life with both PCs running.
Though when I bought it on amazon it was during a sale for about ~$180, I wouldn't pay the $300 they want right now.
Coming from a guy who bought a DS713+ for exactly this purpose -- get the DS416play. Nobody wants to buy a 3 year old 2-bay Synology when you're ready to upgrade.
Then start to use an off-site backup solution like Glacier or CrashPlan (which uses roughly 1GB of RAM per 1TB of backup which a DS416play can handle much easier than a j series). DSM6 has really solid support for Glacier and Crashplan can be had from the Synocommunity fairly painlessly.
You're going to outgrow the 2 drive capacity and will realistically only ever be able to put 6TB or 8TB in there until you hit your limit. This is especially true if you start using the DS416play as a media station (for SABnzbd, Couchpotato, etc). It's almost criminal not to if you're into downloading your media automatically on a low-power always-on NAS.
Get the DS416play and put your 4TB drives in there. When you're out of space there buy two 6TB/8TB drives and then replace your old 4TB's as you have the chance to.
No sense in restricting your RAID to RAID1. SHR with BTRFS is a really good solution and can take some failures (more so with a 4-bay drive).
Buy a UPS because ~$120 is worth not having to risk it. Get something like this APC 1500 (https://www.amazon.com/BR1500G-Back-UPS-1500VA-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU). Costco has a 1500 Cyberpower (which OEM's APC) for ~$120).
/edit: clarifying everything to the DS416play model. It's much, much better.
I added up the max wattage of your stuff (guessing on the 24 switch and USG4P) and got a high value of 1000w (generous max). I would get something like these:
•This has a 7mIn runtime at 1000w, but you most likely won’t use the max wattage.
APC 1500VA Smart-UPS with SmartConnect, Pure Sine Wave UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protection (SMC1500C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y62GSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QtX7AbW4TGNXS
•APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rhX7Ab65SDWHN
The Back-UPS Pro allows for a battery expansion if needed. This one:
•APC External Battery Backup Pack for Model BR1500G (BR24BPG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047E5B90/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MnX7AbGMCVXPT
Look more at the watts and runtime then volts. You can get rack mount versions but they will be higher cost.
If I had my computer plugged into one of these, would it remove the need for the BBU, or is that for if the power between the PSU and raid card is interrupted?
CyberPower CP850PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 850VA/510W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower ($99.95), looks like lowest price ever)
Edit: Lowest ever if you forget to change your time scale from 1 month back to All.. still a decent price
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1
Something along those lines. Unfortunately, some audio equpiment can be sensitive to the artificial sine wave they produce, but I'd start with something around that price point and move up to something like this if you run into problems.
I don't have the one you linked to but I have one similar.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/ref=oh_details_o03_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's pretty awesome. I have it set up with a VM on my ESXi box to automatically shut the entire machine down in the event of a power failure. Also does email notifications. Completely silent and plenty of information available on the little screen. Probably the best investment I have made.
This is more for after you get it working, but seriously consider investing in a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) over a standard surge protector. Most UPS units have surge protection and noise filtering built in as well. Basically if the power goes out or there is a brown out (under voltage/lights dimming) it will switch over to the battery to help keep your PC on and not expose it to the under voltage situation or keep it from suddenly shutting off. Take note, when you're looking at UPS systems make sure it is a Pure Sinewave system because all modern PSUs now have Active Power Factor Correction and they don't work with simulated/stepped sine wave outputs when on battery power.
This is the unit I bought to protect my PC, and I also bought another one for my home theater system.
I bought this UPS a week ago. There are really only two players in this market; APC and CyberPower. I went with CyberPower because of price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N192?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I normally get Cyberpower PFC1500s. I have been super happy with them.
They go on sale all the time on Newegg and Amazon. You get get them for less than $180 when they are on sale.
What a coincidence. Was looking at this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00429N19W
Then my power shut off lol.
I have three of these : amazon!
and I am looking at getting one of these amazon2!
The room is on a 15 AMP circuit, and I am using about 2000 peak watts.
Actually the unit I bought is divided, half out the outputs are line active, half are wall power. I run the power to my rig via the line active socket.
I live in a region where the power dips below 100 volts regularly, so believe me, I pay attention to these things.
I imagine something like this would last a few hours if your actual load is 28W.
A relatively inexpensive UPS could run a pfsense appliance for 3 hours. Not to mention the numerous benefits of AVR besides keeping the OS stable.
UPS: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/
Appliance: https://store.netgate.com/SG-3100.aspx
i think you mean one of these m8. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497300683&sr=1-4&keywords=UPS
This isn't from personal experience, but the people I've talked to suggested cyberpower emphatically until you are into the fairly high end units.
If you're looking into high end rack mount units, or the crazy refridgerator size units, APC is good. It looks like you're looking in the $150 range, in which case everything I have heard would suggest that APC is a poor choice.
Incidentally, it looks like you're looking into the nicer version of the one that I have: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=pd_sim_e_3
Which has given me zero problems. I use it for my desktop, I intend to pick up another for my router/modem/file server in the near future. The software reckons that I have 24 minutes of battery and am currently using 186 watts.
1350AVR reporting in. I love this thing. I get 18 minutes on a 24" monitor, 6950, Phenom II X4 and 3 HDD's.
Oh yeah, it's really really heavy.
EDIT: those 18 minutes include my modem and router. If the tower / monitor is off, I get 400 minutes of wifi.
Actually many uninterruptible power supplies/surge protector combos have a co-ax in/out :)
Example
Well, it's just for the power for the devices that are plugged in to it. So when all the other lights go off and my TV stays on, it's kind of obvious. I got it because (and I don't know why) the apartment complex I live in seems to have infrequent, couple minute long, power outages. I've got my PC (alienware alpha) that I use as a Plex server and NAS plugged in it as well, so I didn't want power outages to kill my 12tb server nor did I like having to manually rebooting my Plex Server each time the power went out.
For reference, this is the one I have. It's a bit over kill for most people though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z80ICM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
edit:changed link
APC Back-UPS 550VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE550G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KnTDybTZJYSPA
That's the one I own
A line conditioner is a great thing to have in front of any electronic device you care about, but it's not enough to overcome the brownouts and power outages you describe. I agree with SD456 that a small UPS would do the trick.
The reason why you should care is because brownouts cause stress to electronic components. Never use your PS4 during a power event like a brownout or thunderstorm, unless it's hooked up to a UPS.
This is such a load of shit.
I have both my XB1 and my XB1s in a surge protector. They both work flawlessly with no issues at all. Most power supplies for PCs have built-in surge protectors, but still need an external safety net.
Word of advice for all: USE A SURGE PROTECTOR. An ACTUAL surge protector. Not those cheapo power strips you get for $20 at a Walmart.
I use this.
I found this but it only advertises 13 minutes at half draw so if you're just doing schoolwork and just need time to save it should easily be enough. It also acts as a surge protector.
I actually have this model and it starts beeping rather obnoxiously when the power goes out so you'll definitely be aware when it goes out. Just be careful not to put it near where your feet are when you're using your computer, I've accidently hit the power button on it before...
Maybe there is voltage swing in your house. Are there other electrical devices having problems? Maybe this: https://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466063819&sr=1-1&keywords=ups could solve your problems
I recommend that everyone get a UPS to protect their electronics even if it doesn't solve a problem with equipment malfunctions.
You can get something a small as this guy:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/
Not expensive (actually cheaper than most routers) and is a really good investment. I'd also like to mention that power protection devices will often provide insurance coverage for damaged equipment up to a specific dollar amount.
lol, I don't think explaining modulation is necessary for this ELI5, but do as you must.
A surge protector/power strip or uninterruptible power supply. I bought this one for my first build.
Too late to help you now, but in this day and age a battery backup is a must. They are relatively cheap and can keep things going. I have a higher end model that once let me play for an hour even though my whole block lost power.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_3/166-5241057-1660131?ie=UTF8&qid=1482417899&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+backup
One side is battery the other side is just surge. Plus these devices condition the line which helps in electrical fluctuations (shitty wiring in older buildings).
Don't connect it to your computer. Connect it directly to your modem/router via ethernet and then use a small UPS to power your modem and the MagicJack. With the minimal load of just the modem/router and the MagicJack it should last for a few hours.
Get yourself a desktop power supply - something like this one - when you get it, you can easily adjust the voltage to 13.8v.
Run it with a good sized UPS - like this one.
Now, once it's all hooked up - just replace the UPS battery with your larger, 12V SLA and rock on!
Yea, I know it's not the most efficient - but it works.
Buy a UPS
A few do have USB ports on the front for power. Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=ups&qid=1574882279&sr=8-5
Does your desktop have an efficient power supply? Most of the efficient desktop PSUs employ active PFC. If yours does, you will want a UPS that provides pure sine wave power in case of an outage.
The APC UPSs on sale do stepped sine wave approximation. It might work for efficient PSUs, I don't know. I do know that CyberPower has pure sine wave PSUs that eliminate the question, albeit at a higher price. For example: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
If money isn't an object get a UPS with two features. First, it should be line interactive which allows it to filter minor fluctuations in power quality. This would be below the level of a surge that most surge protectors would catch. Second, get a PFC compatible one (sometimes called pure sine wave or other variants). Some power supplies are picky and don't like the "simulated sine wave" seen on many cheaper UPS. Your computer might work with a non-PFC compatible one, might not. You'd only know by trying it out, I chose just not to bother with it and got the PFC compatible one.
My experience has been with Cyberpower PFC units which haven't given me any problems.
Might want to check to make sure it's really the same model. This one is a Pure Sine Wave, not simulated, the equivalent VA at Costco is a 1400va/900w for $180
On amazon this equivalent model is selling for 179.99
If you are patient, Amazon has had the 1400va/900w on sale for $140.
Either way, this is still a good deal for a great UPS.
I bought this UPS for my computer, I think it's a good idea to have one. It's actually on sale for a couple more hours for a really good price.
a cheap UPS can be under $40.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-350VA-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C
I would pay $11 more and get the bigger one personally.
I have seen them onsale for $30
for me its not the filament. that is about the cheapest part of the equation for me ($13 for pla $25 for TPU) for me its the lost TIME (8 to 30 hours typically)
Ooma with a UPS battery backup would suffice. The Ooma is a one time investment, and the battery backup should power the fiber box (router), the Ooma, you phone, and maybe the fiber jack (if they haven't implemented POE by the time you get it).
The investment would be about 175 to 200, but wouldn't require any further payments, except read the fine print of the Ooom, I believe there is some Emergency Service fee that is required yearly ($10?).
Do yourself a favor and buy a UPS.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-350VA-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1498995019&sr=8-6&keywords=ups
That way when you power goes out, your PS4 won't immediately shut off.
>I'm going to install a Raspberry Pi in my car for data logging and I want it to boot and shut down with the ignition. My car often goes for days without being used so I do not want to just leave the Pi on, I don't want there to be any chance of draining the battery. If I just power it with the ignition it will be switched off before it has properly shut down so I've come up with this circuit...
Are you trying to learn, or trying to get it to work? Because if you want to learn, this is all well and good. But if you just need a working setup, couldn't you just buy a very small, cheap UPS that sends a shutdown warning to your operating system?
A quick search yielded one for only $40:
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-350VA-Desktop/dp/B004OR0V2C/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1344474295&sr=1-7
How does that compare to the costs of your discrete components, wires, project box, and so on? (Not to mention the golden rule of "your time is money")
CyberPower CP350SLG Standby UPS 350VA 255W Compact
https://amzn.com/B004OR0V2C
Stuff:
my boyfriend and I use this
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TZTGWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
as well as these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AO9K2DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
in the event of a power outage
if your snake is small enough to fit in a 10 gallon then I say go for it, otherwise a sterilite tub, and heating pad (must be controlled with some sort of thermostat rheostat, dimmer switch, etc.) should be fine for a short period of time, just make sure to drill some holes for air/humidity
What I have is basically this, https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE425M/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=apc+modem&qid=1565154753&s=electronics&sr=1-3 I bought it when it was the year end model and is white. Apparently it is not as cool as the black one, but I paid like $30 for it, maybe $25, I am not sure. But any how it keeps my cable modem online for about 3-4 hours. Supposedly at least. I think the most I have had it tested was about 2 hours. But anyhow for $25 its well worth it for me. I have an apc on my desktop that I work from, so they kind of work in tandem.
Edit:
Oh wow I looked it up because I bought it off amazon. This is what I bought. https://i.imgur.com/nEFgdZU.png which apparently now is worth worth $100 to some people, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTQYUA8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sounds like a Raspberry Pi Zero or similar SoC computer would be right up your alley. For the 24/7, I'd recommend a little battery backup for the core of your networking infrastructure. I have a couple of these for low-draw items (in addition to conventional UPS on normal-draw items). I believe folks have used various FriendlyArm SoC computers successfully: http://www.friendlyarm.net/ Last I looked into it, the C.H.I.P. had some quirks to it's flavor of Debian that kept it from running pihole (tho I haven't looked into that for close to a year now).
Highly responsive is an odd request tho: dnsmasq / pihole (now that FTL has been released) is never going to push your load averages higher than 0.05...are you looking to run other programs on, or are you just interested in DNS requests being served quickly? If it's just the pihole, then pretty much any hardware that's newer than ~15 years old and has an Ethernet port should be able to handle a server install of Debian + pihole (and easily service a couple dozen clients without breaking a sweat).
This is the one I typically go with for office computers. Bigger is usually better, but if all you're using it for is power filtering an surge protection a cheap one will do.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
These are the minimum I put at our work desktops.
600va, will last about 20mins or so at 100w draw.
I think most of our desktops will get about 15-20mins on those. (Ryzen5 2600, gtx1050)
$58 from Amazon there.
Also USB cable and software to allow the UPS to tell the pc to shut down automatically when the battery gets low.
Word of caution: This model from Amazon looks exactly like the one you can pick up at walmart. The Walmart one does not have a replaceable battery though.
Was slightly disappointed when I had a coworker just grab one real quick one day.
There are other models. The APC brand seems to be half-decent.
The higher va you get the better runtime you will have.
Sure, I can add those...
EDIT: Here are the links:
Desk: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GVRKCWP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mouse: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071Z8RZHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LP3P834/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor (actually took a risk and went with used from Amazon and save ~$150): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MKT1W65/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
KB/Mouse pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07N3SVZCT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cable Management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GCS77TU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Laptop Tray: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FUOILAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extra Monitor Arm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHXZBYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
UPS: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=APC+UPS&qid=1564668695&s=gateway&sr=8-3
USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFPNXQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
MBP: 2018 2.6ghz i7, 32GB, 512 ssd
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "APC"
----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
I’ve had a APC UPS unit for the last two years and it’s been great. Only keeps the computer running for about 5 minutes upon loss of power, but it’s enough for a safe shutdown.
Heck, when the power went out for two days at my house we relied on that unit to charge our cellphones. Overall great $32 investment.
Here’s a similar one that looks good. It’s about double the power of mine and a little bit more expensive:
APC UPS 600VA Battery Backup & Surge Protector with USB Charging Port, APC UPS BackUPS (BE600M1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s2s7BbVABWT1R
I'm looking for a basic UPS that can handle a 918+, Verizon FiOS G1100 Gateway, Orbi, and switch.
Is this one okay? - APC Back-UPS 600VA BE600M1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU
Would it support automatic shutdown?
Something like this one will get you an hour or two of backup power if all you plug into it is the wireless modem/router and the base unit for the cameras but that should be enough in most situations.
​
edit: spelling
Heres what will fix your problems
I got this one on a sale and it's been great, $43 I believe. Currently it's about 55.
Has a UL listed charging port, a USB-A to connect to your PC to display the battery status, and then 5 power/battery + 2 power outlets. Basically when the power goes out, you have 5 power sources available on battery.
I've only needed it once so far and I didn't want to drain it any more than I needed, but basically the PC, monitor, my speakers and desktop vaporizer which are all best to not have power suddenly cut.
Also has wall mount.
Just note that not very many UPS have great battery life past 20 mins or so, and I believe not many have a ton of cycles. I believe you're meant to replace the battery after 3-5 years as well. The main thing to look out for is battery quality and build quality (the wires, solder). The main thing is that when power cuts, you have some time to save your work, shut down safely, and ignore the issues that come with a power outage, even with the protection of a surge protector.
I'd definitely recommend one if you live in a high-outage area, possibly even if you're a light user. It's just a nice assurance knowing that any game you're playing or work you have open isn't going to go bye-bye because of
fucking PG&Eunreliable coverage.I dont know anything about them. Would this be sufficient?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=twister_B07QYXBZ95?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It's like $40 on sale for a little APC 425 power-strip-style UPS; I don't understand why more people don't buy them and put then everywhere. APC Even warranties equipment connected to the UPS from voltage transients and surges, up to something crazy like $75,000.
Place a small UPS between the TP-Link HS110 and your computer. When you accidentally turn the HS110 off, your computer will shut down gracefully.
if you don't actually care about the U part of the UPS, one can be had for like $40
I can relate, a mute button was a must have for me for my home equipment. I have several of the tower style APC UPS's and they all have a mute button. Like this model for instance:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06VY6FXMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550101483&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=apc+ups+1500&dpPl=1&dpID=31PK49EYlTL&ref=plSrch
I'm hardly an expert on the subject, but I just went through the same process...
I put together a Skylake build this month and I've already had the power go out once which really got me thinking.
So basically passive surge protectors (I've had a Belkin $40 thing for 5+ years) are good but having an Active Inline filtering UPS that can run your important hardware for a few minutes is a lot better. I looked into your EVGA PSU unit to see if is has PFC but can't find concrete evidence (it will be damaged/not work unless the UPS has "Pure Sine Wave" output). I think it's safe to say you should buy one with that capability for sure. The next thing to consider is the VA rating and more importantly the Wattage. I decided to look for at least 600W for my gaming PC so worst case scenario (Gaming + monitor + console) I have a few minutes to safely shut things down on battery. I found the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD meets my needs (the lower power ones do as well but that model is currently on for $180 which is a reasonable sale price). There is also a similarly priced line by APC which is highly regarded (sorry no link)
The one I bought, for $178.98: http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00429N19W/ref=pe_386430_121528420_TE_dp_1
It's cheaper at CanadaComputers but not after shipping in my case: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/part/cyberpower-ups-cp1500pfclcd
U need 99.999% uptime! Lol luckily they aren't that expensive. Get the sine wave one tho. CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_TqVzgx2vRhEDK
Yeah it's probably too small for a gaming PC, if it does work it will be really heavily loaded.
I do have one on my system, this is the model.
Similar setup as your PC, i7-3770k, GTX 1080, 1 SSD, 3 HDD, 750W PSU. I also have my monitors on the UPS as well as my speaker system.
You would be fine with the 1000VA/600W version most likely. I only have the 1500VA because I got it on sale.
Given how much money is sitting in my PC setup I would rather have something I'm sure can handle the load well and has sinewave output.
I have this 1500VA one and it is great.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
Can you brick your PC if the power goes out?
Theoretically you can corrupt Windows if you do not shut down correctly.
​
How serious?
You could lose all your data and possibly have to reinstall windows
​
How rare?
Very rare. I wouldn't stop playing if it was storming outside.
​
How do you avoid it?
Buy a Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS)
It's like a battery backup for your PC and if you lose power, you won't even notice it! All have surge protection. Some even have software that can shut down your computer before the power on the UPS runs out. That will prevent windows from corrupting.
​
If you have a budget build, I wouldn't worry about it. If you have a nice gaming PC, I'd go for something like This CyberPower 1500VA UPS
Haha, yeah I can see how that could happen.
I have https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00429N19W&pd_rd_wg=vdYNI&pd_rd_r=M8BAXVKRT7NQW8PFBBJ1&pd_rd_w=SKPt1
Can go for about 50 minutes on my Anet A8 @60C bed, 200C head
This is what I bought a couple years ago and it says 0 Watts are being used when my Xbox One is plugged into it and in Instant On mode.
You really want two UPS's. Even if you just need to spend another $200 or so to get a small one like this just for this server, do it. And make sure it's sine wave.
I had a rack of servers with redundant PSU's go down because the large/expensive UPS died one night. Learned that lesson.
I currently have this in my amazon cart because im worried about active PFC on my PSUs in my computers... I'm also planning on using this on my ESXi box that it will be protecting
I found the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W and bought it.
Thanks so much, really glad I posted.
Personally, I use these for my PC and retro gaming set-ups.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00429N19W/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1498339635&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ups
There is a difference between surge protectors and a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply). Surge Protectors protect against excess power surge from your outlet, and a UPS will provide continuous power to your devices during outages as well as protect against surges.
For a UPS I'd recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This runs my r510, Synology DS 212j, hp 2530-24G, modem and AP (Average power consumption of 162Wh). An added bonus it works great with their free virtual appliance power management software and will safely shutdown my vm host in the event of an extended power outage.
Got it on sale for 137 5 months ago.
If I plug in straight to my wall I can replicate the "tick" when lights or anything else go on and off, just like you are experiencing. I have anything electrical I care about hooked up to these guys and it completely removes any changes or fluctuations like that.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Anyone have thoughts on this UPS?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00429N19W/ref=gbmh_mob_s-3_3da4_179e402b?m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&dealid=179e402b&pf_rd_p=6a2ae07a-6047-492d-8b7d-1765bf213da4&pf_rd_s=slot-3&pf_rd_t=35801&pf_rd_i=22&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_r=BVYQKNC8W0P4ABYBSHGD
It has great reviews outside of Amazon and the specs are great, but based on other sites, it looks like the seller jacked up the price and then put it on sale so that the savings look bigger than they are.
I have a 650W PSU and an Acer X34 - will this do the job? Might throw my network peripherals on here too.
> It will support my 1080ti 7700k rig and 27" monitor + my fiance's 1060 rig and monitor for about 10 minutes.
thats..... questionable.
as the one I got in December (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/) Gives an uptime readout of only 7 minutes on my 2600k SLI 980ti. No monitors plugged into it. nothing else plugged into it. JUST my PC
I recently purchased CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W for $80 less than what it's going for now during Black Friday, but it's been great. I have my home lab plugged into it. Basically a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter/HP 24 Port Switch/HP Proliant DL370 G6 and can get about 19mins of uptime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For one of my remote offices I installed this Cyberpower OR1500PFCRT2U which is a 2U. Had to buy an additional network card which wasn't cheap.
Found this in a review on Amazon. He says it better than me:
http://amzn.com/B00429N19W
>Line-interactive - In the consumer world, there are three major types of UPS units: standby, line-interactive, and double conversion ("online"). Standby runs wall power straight to the device with minimal filtering unless it detects a major voltage change. Then it switches to battery. Line-interactive is the same, except with a filtering transformer between the wall and the device to handle most voltage variations. In an area with dirty power, line-interactive units won't cycle to battery power as often. With clean power, there's no practical difference between the two. Double-conversion means the battery always powers the device and wall power only charges the battery. The isolation is helpful for sensitive things, but less efficient because the wall power is perpetually converted from AC to DC and back to AC. The heavy-duty inverter this type requires also tends to increase cost and noise.
>> I kind of wish crockpots had a small battery so it can recover from quick blimps in power. Damn.
You could try plugging it into a small UPS, which then if the power goes out it would switch to the battery in the UPS.
Ive not tested it with the Pi but the other one I use for travel with my phone. I charge two phones with it while plugged in over night (from a single USB charging brick) and the charge indicator does not "reset", nor does the phone vibrate like its being plugged in again. I assume this is the same for the Pi.
I keep it in a window and it seems to me on a sunny day it would sustain things for quite some time. This is on top of the 100% level the AC power leaves it at. On top of this my modem and router are running on one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004OR0V2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKzfzbBKQX9QT
Even in the even of a power outage I'm generally unaware unless I check logs on another server I'm running but that's a different can entirely.
Unfortunately its a limitation of the controller. I don't know of one that has memory state.
You could get one of those really small battery backup power strips used for cable modems/routers and put this on it.
​
Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C
Something like this would be fine for a cable modem.. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2
This thing?
This is the one I have, which is major overkill. Has an available wattage of 810 but I only use about 200.
Something like this should be sufficient. It's nothing fancy with no displays, but it comes with a USB cable and should have software that lets you manage some details like how long to run before shutting down your PC in a power outage.
Alternative Amazon link.
I’m personally a fan of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GZRUZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use one for my ONT with Verizon, and another for my router. They do a great job.
Ideally a generator would be best if you’re having a lot of outages, but I know they can be costly.
> my experience the desktop UPS batteries are typically only about $5 cheaper than buying a new UPS
Really? I have a Tripp Lite which was 160 USD when I purchased it three years ago.
Batteries finally died (we lost power about 20 times due to a bad feeder since I purchased the UPS), cost me 40 bucks to replace.
I'm going to start with the assessment that you have an existing UPS like this one. APC 800VA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q3BSPG/
You'll note that it's listed as accommodating 450W.
You've got a 750W P/S in your PC, and probably a ~100W LCD monitor (??). Note also that having a 750W P/S means that it is capable of supplying 750W, not that it necessarily does with your PC's hardware.
Your PC and monitor probably won't be much help, if your router/switch/AP/modem also reboot. So add another ~ 40W for that (not knowing anything about your home network)
Anyway, (750W + 100W + 40W ) * 1.6 == 1400VA
So, you probably want to look at something more like
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TZTGWK
But... note the the listed runtime at full load. In the case of this one, you get 2minutes. That's enough to ride out any momentarily blips, but not much time to do anything other than immediately commence a clean shutdown.
Thanks.
Thinking of picking up this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Display-Protection-SMART1500LCDT/dp/B009TZTGWK/ , i'm in FL so this would definitely help during the stormy seasons.
Only concern is how big it is and how I'd incorporate it with my set up (I don't think it'd be smart putting it on the floor).
I'm an APC fan personally, but Tripp Lite makes some really nice stuff too. This one should work for you.
I'm definitely going to get one I'm just having large amounts of trouble figuring out what would be "good enough"
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009TZTGWK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8
this is what i am considering now. funnily, i have been looking at UPS systems for the past hour. Ideally I just want something that regulates the voltage to a strict 120 and let my ISOBAR handle the rest. The power only goes out when we trip the breaker. We have 4 computers and an AC unit on one circuit
ups is good enough i believe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009TZTGWK/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1511846994&sr=1-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
that one is an example, i advise you to search for yourself another one you find likeable/affordable
I'd recommend getting a small UPS for this purpose. APC makes them for things such as routers, modems, and other low-power devices.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTQYUA8/
Couple from APC, don't have these myself but I do have a pile of other APC USP that I'm very happy with.
https://smile.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-BGE90M-Charging/dp/B00NTQYUA8/ref=sr_1_2
The USB ports on the one above are interesting. 2.5 Amp total, 1.5 top, 1.0 bottom, so it could power a lightly loaded Pi3 and a Pi0w.
For a bit more power to keep your modem, router and Pi(s) alive this isn't bad.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=psdc_764572_t1_B0019804U8?th=1
The http://www.apc.com site has full specs and manuals for these.
APC makes a UPS just for this purpose. You can buy it here on Amazon. I bought one of these just to run my modem and it lasted me through the entire time my power was out (which was over 3.5 hours) with battery left over. So I think it'll give you more run time than any other general purpose UPS out there. Mind you, it does not support anything with grounding prongs and it has a max capacity of somewhere around 70W, so don't put anything extra on it besides the modem and the RT-AC68U. The reason why it can achieve so much runtime for its size is because it was specifically designed for such low loads and has a very efficient dc to ac inverter. Another thing to note is that this thing can only output a square wave, so don't put any sensitive equipment behind it (the modem and router are most likely fine). They also have a cheaper version [here] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-BGE70-Back-UPS-3-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B00KH07WRC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479869782&sr=8-1&keywords=APC+bge70) that has a little less runtime and is probably cheaper than any normal UPS, I think this would be the best option as you're looking for just 10 mins of runtime anyway (it advertises to do 3 hours).
Yeah, I wasn't really clear on your description either.
Networking equipment can be very picky with regards to power. I would get a little UPS specifically meant for networking stuff (not because it needs to be special, more because they are low-output and cheaper) to isolate your modem/router from the other stuff.
Something like this is what I was thinking - https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-BGE90M-Charging/dp/B00NTQYUA8
For the time being though, I would think taking them off the same surge protector might help if you are unable to put them on another circuit as you suggested.
Adding the ferrite core isn't a bad thing to try either and I imagine you have some lying around (I know I do).
My dishwasher causes the world to rotate briefly when the motor to drain the water kicks on. I had luck with a small UPS BGE90M
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NTQYUA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482777975&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=network+ups&dpPl=1&dpID=31MOVJTj3aL&ref=plSrch
/u/jhulc is absolutely correct. Had 4 different U-verse customers have issues with the residential gateway. Each replaced multiple times. Finally, one tech came by and recommended a device called the APC Back-UPS Connect and it's solved the issues at all of the locations.
It's currently $25 on Amazon: https://amzn.com/B00NTQYUA8
If you could up your budget by a couple of quid, you can get a new one from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00X8QBT6M/
It will probably be a good idea IMO, as used Power Supplies are risky.
Since I'm incredibly bored, I looked into a few power supplies on Amazon. if you don't mind could you check them out and suggest which one i should get? Again, thanks for the help previously.
​
https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-VS450-450-Watt-Power-Supply/dp/B00X8QBT6M/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=power+supply&qid=1555173904&s=gateway&sr=8-4
​
https://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master-MWE-450-Watt-Supply/dp/B075F7VZG2/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=power+supply&qid=1555173904&s=gateway&sr=8-8
Purchased the 600 VA model APC Back-UPS (BE600M1) from Amazon for about $55 USD.
Not sure if anyone else encountered this, but it took a while before my 218j recognized that a UPS was connected via USB (~30 minutes).
This is what I use:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
It’s 600va and does the job fine. My ONT is two prong so this works great.
Save yourself some headache for next time.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
Get one of those - plug your essential/expensive devices into the 'battery' side. It does a better job of protecting your devices if there is too MUCH power and too LITTLE power.
I'll snap some pix this evening and post them up.
While I doubt that this is a common use case, the truth is that QNAP simply uses the standard Linux
mdadmutility for RAID. They then throw the volume into an LVM pool. If you choose encryption the specific LVM volume is then LUKS encrypted.* Depending on your use case, that may be enough to get you through.If you require high of availability for a network share (where even Amazon's next day delivery is too slow), then you need a fail-over box. Because I guarantee you that any time the NAS goes down you're going to spend 12+ hours checking the raid array for errors, and another quite a few more hours making sure my data is instact, updating my backups, and then running the extended hard drive self tests. I sure as heck wouldn't just put disks where the enclosure itself failed back into operation without at least every check I can throw at them. In addition to the possibility of the array having issues, the disks themselves could have suffered damage at the same time.
Speaking of which, the box is on a UPS right? And plugged in via USB and configured to turn itself off before the UPS battery dies right?
tl;dr: If you require that sort of uptime, then you need a full fail-over machine with the QNAP synchronizing with it fairly often.
* The caveat being that QNAP uses their own utility. To call the C
cryptfunction (based on MD5) with their own static seed. So the password you use in the GUI is different than the real LUKS password.Caveat the second is QNAP does not do this when encrypting external disks. However, the GUI silently limits you to a 16 character password.
Here you go, this should suit your needs:
router
switch
power backup and protection
I have one of these powering my routers/several Pis:
Inexpensive and awesome!
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/
So, I'm not in an office environment, but I bought one of these: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ for my 1019+.
It connects properly via USB, and the NAS estimates my time on battery at 3688 seconds. I have gotten emails when the power grid has gone shaky, and when it's come back. The DS1019+ is rated at 38.59w access and 13.32w hibernation... so very similar specs power wise.
Hope that helps.
I have this APC UPS with my DS416Play. I also run my Router and 24 port switch off of it.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU
It supports auto shutdown and gives me about 30 minutes of run time on battery.
These are the statistics if you are interested:
https://camo.githubusercontent.com/96b1991deeed76ada1c1bf23ffae4208049c8661/68747470733a2f2f692e696d6775722e636f6d2f38553556774e582e706e673f31
You might want to look up a relevant subreddit for your specific needs but something like this: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=sr_1_1?crid=JP7ZHHLLWA8D&keywords=battery+surge+protector+for+computer&qid=1559103578&s=gateway&sprefix=battery+surge+protector%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-1
I think you can have something fitted to your home that does the same thing but for whole house but you might as well check the easier/cheaper routes first. Good luck with your neighbors I hope they're nice :)
You could buy an uninterruptible power supply similar to the one below. They have an internal battery that will prevent anything connected from losing power. I can't say how long it should last, but it's one idea.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.bN6CbKHX83QF
Have you ever considered using a good battery backup and surge suppressor like an APC? APC has different sizes available as well.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU
I am about to buy this right here for that very purpose..
APC Back-UPS 600VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with USB Charging Port (BE600M1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RAGlzbZDMDX7Z
We were planning on using an uninterruptible power suppy so that the wiring would be simpler and anything could be connected to it. They are basically large rechargeable batteries that have normal sized plugs.
Here is an example one though we plan to use an older one: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1496198446&sr=1-5&keywords=ups&th=1
One of these should do the job nicely.
For anyone that might read this and have the same question:
Ended up finding a couple options.
You might want to invest in a UPS. Something like this should do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FWAZEIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495290569&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=uninterruptible+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=41FJ2xgXGEL&ref=plSrch
Yeah I second this. I had a similar problem when my t-stat trips the furnace or A/C -- UPS fixed it. You don't need anything fancy, this will likely be more than enough.
EDIT: Oh and just in case it isn't obvious, don't plug the fridge into the UPS!
I use an simple UPS from APC.
I bought this one, works fine with my DS1517+ and is inexpensive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWAZEIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have the previous gen of this on all my Eeros. Has been great when we’ve had the occasional outage.
APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, 425VA, APC Back-UPS (BE425M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KSgyDbJH4PKWD
> the outlet kept tripping so I replaced the battery back up per customer services suggestion
Could try something like this
APC Back-UPS 425VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE425M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cvqhqhXBnvRwa
Its worth the money. I recently bought one because this same crap happened to me. Had to redownload my game and that took about 10hrs. If you already have a power surge protection you can still use that + this to give you some time to log out of the game and save your ps4 from surges. It pays for itself in the long run.
Next is a charging station.
Bestand Charging Station for Playstation 4/Dualshock 4 Wireless Controller,with Dual USB HUB Charger Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRPX7E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_LBo56YWhDQHZ8
I still use it religiously and its great. It really is worth the buck.
Seems like an inexpensive UPS like this would be better suited for your needs.
I think you're missing what 3DRogue is saying. Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC236Q
It's a battery backup that will keep feeding power to your printer in the event of a power failure. Even if you have the option to resume, sometimes the results are quite disappointing. I had this exact thing happen to me and that's why I purchased the item above.
I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC236Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have the tankless water heater and my water softener plugged into it. The rechargeable battery (or capacitor) that maintains the system state on the water softener failed. Every time the power flicked off, even for a brief moment, the water softener would regenerate. It was recommended by my water softener installer that it would be much less expensive to use the UPS than to replace the system board. Since both systems are near each other, it was easy to plug both systems into the UPS.
I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC236Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's got enough juice to run the pi for an hour or two, depending on how many hard drives you also have plugged in. It also has a mode to silence the alarm until the battery is almost dead so it doesn't wake you up in the middle of the night until it's really necessary.
Do you guys mean a specific model or just any APC 1500VA unit?
For example, the 1500VA unit I mention in the OP would appear far more "enterprise-grade" (and thus hopefully more reliable) than something like this APC Back-UPS Pro (BX1500M):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY6FXMM/ref=dp_cerb_3
I use this one it has come in handy.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06VY6FXMM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549401130&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+battery+backup+%26+surge+protector
Get a pure sine wave inverter, more spendy but less likely to fry your stuff. And we have really dirty power out here with multiple power hits a day and ours work great. I use this one and this one.
This is my current go-to with my current setup, but it can be a bit more expensive than some will want to shell out:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM/
A cheaper alternative is, which also has less expensive versions as well, but they have less volt-amps, so will not power your system for as long. I tend to oversize the UPS as a just-in-case, giving my system ample time to shut down properly on its own.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC21FE/
Short Answer: Yes, safe bet, can't go wrong (but $$$)
Long Answer: ...
Not exactly as your PC (hopefully) isn't pulling more than 2/3rds of that under max. load. Also something to keep in mind is what else you are plugging into the UPS. Many people put the Monitor as well an accessory or two (like a desk lamp & wireless router/modem) on the battery backup. You can safely put stuff like printers & speakers on the surge protection plugs as they don't pull from the battery.
There is an awesome product called Kill A Watt that you can plug in the wall & see exactly how much juice stuff is using.
But I'm gonna make some assumptions here ... Let's say you want to keep stuff up for at least 15mins (in total blackout) with a monitor, light & modem, likely pushing around ~ 500+ watts , worst case in a "critical gaming session" with everything you want on.
Something like the CyberPower CP1000 or the APC BR1000G would be your best bets.
You can go with a lessor UPS (e.g. less battery power & cheaper), but this will lessen the amount of time you can keep your equipment on & put extra stain on the UPS (or too low, the UPS just won't work & kill the power). Look at a PSU & UPS like a car engine, if you redline it all the time, things will wear out & blow up fast.
Get an APC. » http://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0038ZTZ3W
Yea, this is the one I'm using for the printer and my computer.
I have a similar pump house at my place.
I used a cheap fixture like this with two of these 100W ceramic reptile heaters plugged into a thermocube that turns them on at 35*F, off at 45*f. The pumphouse is probably 8x8ft but only about 3ft tall, has a lid on top that you lift up for access. I insulated the sides with 2" of foam board, and the top with R-15 batts.
I have a generator, but you could probably use a computer UPS battery back-up to provide power for at least a little while if the power goes out. I use this APC BR1500G with the extra battery pack for backup power on my home PC, which uses about 300W, and it gives me about 70 minutes runtime. Without the additional battery pack, it would provide about 15 minutes.
Since they advertise surge protection as a selling point and guarantee $150,000 in if it fails, then yes, i'll trust that it does surge protection:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Back-BR1500G-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474730765&sr=1-5&keywords=apc+ups
And no, not all appliances have internal protection. I have 3 of these across my home setup, as well as the smaller ones. About a year ago, during an electric storm, the 1 TV I had hooked up to the wall with no surge protector got damaged during a power fluctuation. So I'll stick to my UPSs with surge protection.
You should look at getting a battery back up, most of those have coax surge protector and some even provide ethernet surge protection as well . Something like this https://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU is probably a little overkill for power but will provide you with good surge protection all around (also look at other brands this is just a good example).
They also have protection policies, so if what you have connected still gets shwacked they will pay up to a certain amount to replace it.
I have one of these no complaints yet.
If you dont need rack mounted, Ive found my APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS with the extended Battery to be very good. Current load is 130w and runtime is 178 mins.
If I turn on the desktop that is also on there, runtime drops to just over an hour with the combined ~250w load.
I have it connected to my FreeNAS whitebox via the included USB, with NUT running on FreeNAS that shuts down the rest of the applicable servers via network.
Total cost new: ~$310 USD.
Edit: N.U.T.
Please don't buy anything with the word "Monster" in it. They are a terrible company. $179 for a standard MOV surge suppressor? That's way too much. You can get a battery backup unit from APC that has full voltage regulation for that price. For a fraction of that you can get an APC surge suppressor that will do the same thing as that Monster.
For less than the cost of that power strip I would buy this:
APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JK5-yb8DJNNKP
I've got an APC 1500VA battery backup for sale that can power up to 865W, lightly used in a non-smoking household and in working condition. Idk, $70?
I've also got a Dean Edge 10a bass and an EVGA Nvidia GTX 650 ti 2GB that has only been used for gaming purposes.
hmm, maybe a little bit, but largly during a storm your trying to protect agenst lightning, wish is near to impossible to fully protect yourself from, current fluctuations that can cause to much or too little power or sudden loss of power that can cause data loss or windows errors.
That device will only somewhat protect against surges. Its better than nothing but not ideal. What you would really want is something more like this to offer piece of mind. It also has a program so if the power is out too long your computer can do a safe shutdown in addition to the things I talked about protecting above.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503203746&sr=1-3&keywords=apc+1500
yeah a good UPS is a good idea even if you didnt have problems with the breaker. I use this https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482612720&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=ups&psc=1
APC and CyberPower both make very good quality UPS's. I have this APC and It's perfect. I had brownouts a couple weeks ago and the unit safely powered my rig 9 times in an hour. Get a UPS with a little higher wattage output than your computer needs. I have a 750W power supply and the UPS is 1500 watts. This is probably overkill, but better safe than sorry. Also, the APC connects to your computer via USB and self monitors. Every month it runs an automated battery test to ensure it's still in good condition.
Would you have recommendations against this unit?
I think this covers everything I need, being:
I bought the APC equivalent because it has an expansion slot for more battery capacity. (it's an additional unit)
I picked up the UPS+Battery for ~$220 off Amazon used.
I picked up a APC BX1500G.
Hell, these go on sale quite a bit, but even the normal price is a good start if you have literally nothing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU
You won't see a bunch of uptime if power cuts, but it helps for brownouts and short outages. If/when you do upgrade off it, it's easy to move to something else in the house.
Of course it can, mine is natural gas, but not as easy for an electric one. I have a UPS hooked to mine, so I can have hot water during power outages. Mine is a standard PC UPS form APC, with a supplemental extra battery pack hooked into it for a combines 3000VA of power. Mine is US, so 120volt, and is a Rinnai RUC98i, which can heat 9.8 Gal/min. You only need power to run the igniter, and then the brain to allow it to measure and mix the heated water with fresh water in order to bring it to the temperature the unit is set to.
When the unit is on (and mixing hot with cold water) it draws more than when idle. If I leave it on 24/7 it has juice for about 2-3 days of powering just the tankless. If I unplug it when not about to use it, easily a week of power.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047E5B90/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=twister_B007UL3ZEK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get one of those ^^ Better than a surge protector.
For a UPS the cheapest I can reccommend myself is this one. Of course depending on your computer setup that model may not supply enough power. They are typically expensive for the ones with PFC sinewave technology which is required for powering sensitive electronics like your PSU/Computer.
At the least though, you can go with a typical surge protector power strip. Tripp Lite is a reputable brand. It doesn't offer the same protection from repeated brown-outs as a UPS but its a hell of a lot better than plugging it right into the wall.
These are the best bang for your buck right now.
TLDNR; Without having more info on what I described in the first paragraph. I'd say just buy a couple 10TB Easystores on sale ($180ea) and use your current SBCs and smaller server setups. After I wrote all of this I saw that you are from AUS(I think), so no clue if you can get close to $18 per TB in your area, but prices are coming down every year so sometimes better to just save $$$. It is super fun to think about a new and more powerful setup, plus buying it and putting it together, but as you can see I've done a lot of this thinking already. You are also probably feeling guilty that you have to make use of all your 2TBs, but lots of little HDDs do require more electricity to power up and cool. You need storage density and you cant get around that. Upgrade to 10TB and use the 2TB as a cold storage (backup). You are at a heck of a crossroads because the cost to go from SBCs to a "Proper" server plus buying storage isnt a cheap one. Currently there are limited stepping stones, but more powerful SBCs and Ryzen Embedded are here and on the way so wait if possible. Either way you go, you will spend more money and use up storage faster than you planned... The more powerful SBCs arent always cheap either, once you factor in cost of: memory card, power supply, case, possible heatsink/extra heat sinks, a fan, etc. Their lower price starts creeping into the middle range...
What brand, how many, and how long have the 2TBs been powered on for? It sounds like you are currently swapping out the 2TBs for others depending on what you want to watch and on which HDD it is? Do you have any projected storage numbers and what is your current and future budget? You mentioned that you have a small dedicated server? Is that another SBC or what is with that setup and how many sata ports? I'd forgo the transcoding ideas and nix buying any sort of new "Server" options. Focus on reusing what you have or going with a "Used" setup, so you can start saving that money for when 8TB or 10TB Easystores go on sale.
IMO for a true new build you'd want to price in ECC RAM, UPS, and I personally prefer a case that has hot swap access to HDDs. The Rosewill that meemo linked cant be beat for the price especially since it comes with 7 fans, but it requires extra steps to access the HDDs (internally only), which may be fine for you. There is Mediasonic (JBOD version only) that you could plug into your SBC, but that technically isnt hot swappable either, plus it is USB 3.1 to USB-C which isnt the worst but it isnt the best... I know you wanted to get away from SBCs, but if you disable transcoding there are some SBCs that use SATA to SATA connections that are very viable. Any SBC or standalone storage that uses USB is a potential risk, since USB can suffer connection issues when doing rebuilding, parity, and scrubbing maintenance (same if your power goes out, hence a need for UPS). Helios4 is a time restricted option, since they only open up orders once or twice a year (they are currently taking orders). *I saw a post saying that since the Helios4 is a 32bit processor, so it is limited to 16TB volumes. You get 2GB ECC + 4x SATA and I believe you can use any HDD size with that (double check tho), so 4 separate 10TB volumes (4x$180sale=$720+tax), not including parity... I'm not sure how the 32bit and the 16TB volume limit effect drive pooling... I gotta research more into that. I'm not familiar with the UnRaid, FreeNAS, or the other options that you mentioned, but OpenMediaVault4 has MergerFS drive pooling and Snapraid plugin, you could run 3x storage HDD and 1x parity or you could forgo parity for now. If you prefer Windows (You can also run omv4 on windows in a VM) there is Stablebit Drivepool (Not free) for pooling and then Snapraid (not completely novice friendly) for parity. Depending on the HDD type you could reuse the discarded Easystore enclosures and put your 2TB drives in there (still USB connection). If they are a different brand (non WD/HGST) I think you have to desolder something on the Easystore board? I lost the link on how to do that. You could also just keep the 2TB as cold storage backups, but that still carries a risk, but it's cheaper. You could also get 2nd Helios, but for about the same price you could use that money on a 10TB. That would replace 5x of your 2TB drives... Not too mention the extra electricity to power and cool 5x drives vs 1x drive... As you can see, storage density starts coming into play here, big time.
UPS https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/
Mediasonic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YQHWYW/
Helios4 https://shop.kobol.io/collections/frontpage/products/helios4-full-kit-2gb-ecc-3rd-batch-pre-order?variant=18881501528137
https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/as17od/helios4_batch_3_available_for_preorder/
There are other SATA SBCs that you could use and you could also do a janky setup and put the SATA SBCs inside a hot swappable case like this Silverstone one. There are other cases, but this is the only name that came to mind. This case also doesnt have any power supply or fans to cool the HDDs so there will be extra cost there, plus you'll need a power supply, PLUS a way to turn on your power supply (with a power board), since that SBC setup wont have a motherboard. You can also make your own "Dumb" JBOD HDD enclosure and connect that to your mini server. Another option to SBCs is the ASRock cpu+mobo line: J3455-ITX, J4105-ITX, annd J5005-ITX. The issue with this that it appears you are still limited to 4x SATA or other variations of these boards have a PCIe 2.0 x16 slot at x1 or x2 transfer lanes/speed instead of x8 or x16... Also you have to factor in the price of ram and a mini PICO power supply. There is a subreddit+website that focuses on used parts for cheap server setups, but you might want to verify the power consumption of those setups when they are idling. With the NAS killer option, you gotta make sure all of the parts are still available on ebay or refurb sites, plus make sure you have time to build your setup to verify everything is working plus stress test it before the return window closes to weed out any weak used parts.
Silverstone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAELTAI/
HDD enclosure option https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-5-25-Inch-3-5-Inch-Hot-swap-SATAIII/dp/B00DGZ42SM/
Power Board https://www.amazon.com/Super-Micro-Computer-Supermicro-Cse-ptjbod-cb2/dp/B008FQZHZE
J3455-ITX https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-157-728
https://www.serverbuilds.net/nas-killer-v30/
Another option if you really want transcoding and a more powerful "Server" would be a Dell Optiplex 7010, which are used business computers that are "Refurbished", but I think they just take them from that company and wipe the hard drive, nothing else. The Minitower Desktop version is roomier than the slightly cheaper SFF (SmallFormFactor) version, which might be important if you want to swap out the power supply, watch the youtube video to get an idea of what you are getting into. Since a cheap power supply is a weak point plus a potential hazard I'd recommend swapping in a new power supply, but you could risk it with its current power supply. Everything else should last for a good while. You'll also need to install a HBA card. You can get Genuine used cards that were in good working order or you could get a new knock off from China. Both options are viable, but personally I prefer the used option. Theartofserver, ebay seller, also has a youtube channel, so I purchased from him, but I have also purchased from other sellers and got good working parts (I think Ebay still has the most honest and accurate rating system out there?). Since the Optiplex doesnt have room for internal HDDs then you are left with a few options with various HBA cards (internal vs external), expander cards, and adapter setups (SFF-8087 to SFF-8088). If you want it to look "Proper" there will be a lot of wasted money on 2x adapters (1x Optiplex + 1x external HDD enclosure) and an extra SFF-8088 cable between the two. I'd just go janky with it and get a longer reverse breakout cable of 3.3feet (4x SATA to 1x SFF-8087), which should be long enough to go from your external HDDs setup into the Optiplex case and internally connected to the HBA card, like the popular 9201-8i. The janky part being that you'll have the reverse breakout cable snaking directly into each case, instead of plugging into an adapter in the back.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0GNUOG/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-Breakout-SFF-8087/dp/B018YHS9GM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-LSI-6Gbps-SAS-HBA-LSI-9201-8i-9211-8i-P20-IT-Mode-ZFS-FreeNAS-unRAID/162958581156
Single adapter https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816133055
Double adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPD9QEQ/
SFF-8080 cable https://www.amazon.com/Norco-Technologies-C-SFF8088-External-SFF-8088/dp/B003J9CZCK/
A UPS with a pure sine-wave will be just fine and protect your console (Pure sinewave is for sensitive electronics, the xbox isn't that sensitive, but I got it just for peace of mind.) I have this and it works great. I had a quick brown out the other day and everything in my apartment shut down except for everything that was plugged into the battery power.
Edit: Linked the wrong UPS! oops
Is your goal to actually run it for any period of time, or to just be able to shut down properly if you lose power? I run this thing (510W version) for my setup, backing up my R9 Fury eGPU, minor peripherals and three monitors (two 4K, 27 and 31" and one older 20 incher). Note that it provides pure sinewave output: Cheaper units do not and may cause a problem with certain electronics. I did not measure how long it should last when the power cuts out, but it it is definitely enough to shut things down cleanly, even without doing that in a massive hurry. In general, a GTX1060 doesn't consume over 150-160W of power, or 200W for higher-end OC models - Let say 220W after AC/DC conversion inefficiency. A monitor eats up around 20-40W. The Beast has a negligible power consumption. End result, you can easily use a 300W UPS unit for a clean shutdown. Just make sure to get a Pure Sinewave output one.
One of these. I have one on my desk supporting my gaming pc and my two Synology. Also have one on my wife’s desk and one on the living room entertainment system.
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1000VA/600W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N192/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-ysjDbD6GJ1CK
Might want to wait till amazon prime days one might go on sale...
Yeah my UPS is a https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192
I got this unit for the same reason and it works fine. Tomshardware has been doing teardowns of cheaper UPS systems and they're all not great in the sub-$300 range, but it's good enough to keep you running during a thunderstorm
Could be a bad outlet or possibly a failing PSU.
Are you able to try the system with the old RAM for a while? I've not heard of RAM causing that problem, but it's something to test.
If you don't already have a decent surge protector, you might also consider a UPS to clean up your power from the wall. CyberPower makes one of the most affordable and solid PFC/PSW units:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473692048&sr=8-2&keywords=cyberpower+pure+sine+wave
I'd say a UPS for your system (Line interactive). Maybe possibly a better and more efficient PSU. That PSU is actually pretty terrible and also only rated to full power at 30°C, See review here
Looking at your build I'd say it maybe pulls 350W fully stressed (you could check it with a cheap kill-a-watt meter). A UPS could, if it for some reason doesn't prevent tripping the breaker, not cause the system to shutdown while you sprint to flip it.
This is the type of UPS i'd recommend, with line-interaction and PFC compatible.
Last thing to do would be reducing any other appliances on that circuit. For instance, if your bedroom is on that circuit, change all incandescent power sucking bulbs to LED/CFL. Have you tried troubleshooting by turning off literally everything asides from the computer?
This is what I use. I also have this one but I prefer my cyberpower because it is pure sine wave, and has some better features.
Buy a pure sine-wave UPS, avoid using any Molex to SATA cables (ESPECIALLY cheap ones) and you'll be fine. The point of circuit breakers is to prevent fires, and UPSes prevent electrical issues from harming your components. The point of power supplies (at least good ones) is to prevent the rest of the components in your computer from being harmed.
Some people actually use these cheap Molex cables in their servers: https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupportgore/comments/3hy8ep/this_is_why_molex_to_sata_cables_are_bad/
https://www.reddit.com/r/techsupportgore/comments/2fgjon/every_other_month_someone_tries_to_claim_our_ssd/
Here's an example of a great pure sine-wave UPS: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192
TL;DR: Get a pure sine-wave UPS, and don't use Molex to SATA cables.
I like the CyberPower brand units..
This is the one I use.
Edit: Reviews and suggestions here.
You're welcome - keep in mind that the batteries in those won't keep things running for long if the power is out. Maybe 5 minutes so if you have a computer hooked to one, it's best to start saving your work just in case.
I've got my home stereo on an older, less powerful version of this one and if it ever craps out, I'll likely replace it with this one. I think mine is like 650VA and that's enough for the receiver, TV and cable box being on at one time but if I try to turn on the PS3 also, eventually it'll over draw and shut down everything. The 1,000VA could easily handle that....but honestly, I don't need all that on at one time so the 650 works fine.
Yeah, I ended up going with this -
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525709544&sr=1-4&keywords=cyberpower+ups
Works like a charm so far. Haven't had issues yet, but, knock on wood, all that jazz.
I got one because I get brown outs frequently thanks to old wiring and was tired of my pc crashing constantly. It's bad for computers if you are looking at restarting as soon as the brown out ends as it can damage parts stopping and restarting so fast (multiplied if it happens frequently). I got this one cyberpower 1000 and it protects my pc, monitor, lcd tv, router, and modem (uninterrupted internet FTW).
I really recommend the CyberPower back-up power supplies, I have one for my iMac and if I lose power while my iMac is sleeping, it's a good hour before the power outage reaches my computer... and that covers 99.9% of power outages. Longer than that, I'd likely be home and able to shut the computer down safely.
This cyberpower seems to be decent. I don't really know much about these though.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1350PFCLCD-1350VA-810W-Compatible/dp/B00429N19M/
What wattage does your computer peak at? Cyberpower PFC Sinewave series is going to be your best bet for something within a reasonable budget.
Here's one with an 810 Watt limit:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP850PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19M?th=1
Here's the vendor website for further specifications:
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/ups/cp1350pfclcd/
If you're operating at a full 810w on that bad boy, you'll have about 3 minutes to get your computer shut down.
It says "simulated sine wave output" so no, not pure. I think this model does though.
CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD PFC Sinewave. You want a pure sine wave UPS for PSUs with Active PFC or else you risk your PC powering down anyway when the power goes out. The amount of watts you need depends of how much the PSU actually draws from the wall (your total system watts factoring in PSU efficiency) and how long you want the system to stay on for.
Check out the newer PFC model. I picked one up about a month ago, no problems. I almost pulled the trigger on the older model but after reading the feedback, I chose this one because it works better with the newer PSUs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A decent motherboard for the 9900k that comes with the addons and whatnot I need cost north of $200, and I hear motherboards for the 3950x will be more because of the need for VRM cooling, apparently. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yE0kDb4B0P165) This little guy here protects around $8000 worth of stuff, and since there have been storms around here recently, to me, the peace of mind is worth the cost alone.
Just a note, you can get it much cheaper than the MSRP on that site.
I picked mine up retail for $209.
Do you have any recommendations for specific items to purchase?
I see a ton of options for NVR's, Hikivision cameras, switches, etc.
I do have a spare UPS I can use. Will a CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1500VA 900W be sufficient?
I bought a "CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD 1500VA GreenPower AVR LCD UPS System" back in March 2009 from Canada Computers for $260
Then, I bought "1 of Set of 2 - CyberPower RB1280X2A 12V 9Ah Compatible - Replacement Battery by UPS Battery Center" in October 2017 from Amazon for $83 shipped to replace the initial batteries.
The unit + replacement batteries are still going strong and have protected me from so many power issues!
Just to be the only one in the neighbourhood with working WiFi during a power outage, it's 100% worth it.
With only modem + router, I can last easily 4 hours (longer outages are rarer, or I'll just go to bed and wake up with power). With my NAS, modem and router, I'm looking at about 2 hours of video streaming during a power outage. With my desktop, monitor, nas, modem, and router, I still have between 5 and 15 minutes of uptime depending on what I'm doing.
Actually, one time I got 16gb of DDR4 ram for $80 when it was going for $150+ because the seller wasn't using an UPS like this, had burnt his computer in a thunderstorm, and was selling his parts for his new build to afford replacement parts instead. So I can say that others not having UPS devices actually made me richer ;)
These days I'm actually looking to buy a 2nd unit, but in the higher end CP1500PFCLCD version for my more sensitive devices (I have a korean UW monitor with mild flicker issues).
I highly recommend using an UPS on all your electronics and computers!
I have had this one for about 4 years link
I liked it so much I recently got a second one for my entertainment center.
safe to say you're mostl likely SOL. it sounds like the drive is more or less dead. but some things you can test out
while in windows got to disk manamgent (start>"diskmgmt">click "yes"and see if the drive is view-able here. if it is, it means the drive is connected and windows need to reformat it. I believe going to a Linux you should be able to recover data on it, but I can't guarantee that, if this is the case I'll try to assist you on it. if not keep reading
if you boot into the bios (generally hitting F10 when booting) and see if the drive is viasable, windows might have issue.
You double check all cables right, made sure they were in tight?
if making the cables are all the way in and it's not view able in the bios then it's safe to say the drive is dead.
I'd recommend calling in a replacement from samsung, and investing in a UPS (do this either way), I'd recomand a cyberpowe ups (or somthing like this, as they are a pure sine wave, not emulated as other UPS are.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
I've got this UPS, its great. Their Power Panel software has a Linux version, I run it on my server.
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/software/powerpanel-business-edition-for-linux/
You can usually find this particular UPS on sale for $150 shipped.. even at $200 I think its worth it.
Yea, but no.
Get one with pure sinewave output, active pfc compatibility.
Like:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
I think I have the 1000 model for my receiver. Its MORE than enough. Has 65”TV+x2300w +gaming steam machine and hits about 300w blasting Doom2016.
https://youtu.be/KysBEnZUcaw
Unless you're planning on running SLI 1080Tis and an 8 core overclocked CPU, you're fine with your PSU.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qcSrzbMYRTZ9K
I am using this CP1500PFCLCD
I got something similar to this, I can't verify if I have the same model but mine is 4 years old. I got it for $150 on sale.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cyberpower+sine+wave&qid=1569703137&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I currently have this:
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
Depending on if your psu has active PFC or not you might not need a pure sine wave psu. You might also not even need the 1500 version but this is pretty much the best bang for your buck in pure sine wave psu's I've found.
I did have a power loss without the upc once and my freenas installation started basically giving my plugins issues with their ips and I had to reinstall the plugins.
No other loss of data though.
Also others may chime in that have more experience than me.
A couple grand???
Why not just use this? http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
I have three of these. They're amazing. They work fine with the business / agent software.
This is a great investment. Living in an apartment complex, I experience several quick power cuts a month. I have my tv, receiver, game systems, modem and router hooked into this and never even notice. Internet stays on, cable stays on, gaming stays on.
I use this one for my computer.
These will keep your electronics safe.
Personally I've used CyberPower UPS units like this one for many years without issue (this particular one has an average rating of 4.5 stars with 2800 reviews [73% rate it 5 stars]). However, I think the CyberPower warranty may only cover the UPS device itself.
Another popular brand that competes with CyberPower is APC.
Everyone should get themselves one of these!
It's enough to keep my PC, monitor, modem, and router all on so even when the power goes out You can still game and your internet still works!
Lots of options but you don't need a pure sinewave, many use a simulated one and it's perfectly fine.
The issue is the pass through.. You need it to be big enough to carry the load of your rig at full power off of the battery.
I have this one and it keeps up with my high end gaming rig with a 1200watt psu..
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HGhwDbZ1PWS6Z
Battery backups aren't meant to keep your stuff running for an hour or two, they're for giving you a few minutes time in order to gracefully shut down your devices. If you want an hour or two you'll need to get a seriously overpowered UPS and at that point you're better off getting a generator. My 1500VA UPS gives me ~20 minutes with my ~225W load. Mine is a 1500VA Cyberpower UPS it's nice and I like it but it's not a rack mount, if that's what you want.
Try a UPS that has active filtering. I had that happen quite a bit and then I got something like linked below and I have no more problems. You'd be surprised at the fluctuations that can happen in your residential electrical.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK
Sorry for being noob...but what's %output THD? For example, here's the simulated sinewave cyberpower model:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486670594&sr=8-1&keywords=cyberpower+ups
They talk about how it's great for "desktop computers" but in their table they don't say it is rated for active PFC power supplies. Most of the people here (if they follow advice on BAPC) will buy an 80+ rated PSU that will always be active PFC. My impression is that it might work, but the only guaranteed ones are "pure sinewave" UPS units. I assume there is something better about the "pure sinewave" models that make them rated for PFC power supplies.
Does this %output THD have something to do with that? How do we determine it? (I didn't see anything on the product page on amazon, for example)
One decent unit is enough for most. The UPS will have two sets of ports on the back, those that have battery backup and those that only act like a regular power strip. Plug the PCs and the main monitor from each into the battery side, and the rest into the surge protection side.
How long the battery will last will depend on the actual draw from whatever is attached, the included software will let you monitor that information
I use an older version of this guy - https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK
I had two of those little guys (older more brick like form) but after a good run (5 - 7 years) one of them died outright, and the other had very little capacity left. They were cheap enough that I just replaced them with a bigger one, check out this 1500VA bad boy
It comes with a nice little PC app that lets you monitor battery status, and estimates how long it can run based on current power draw.
Right now, I have mine powering a cable modem, wi-fi router, 16 port Ethernet switch, VOIP box, a small 2 disk NAS box, raspberry pi 2, raspberry pi 3, and a Panasonic wireless phone base station.
Total draw: 27 watts, estimated uptime: 467 minutes.
We use APC at work and I have a CyberPower at home (on Amazon). Happy with both brands. I went with CyberPower for cost as it had great reviews. Have had the unit running for a few years now and it does the job.
Hmm, what about something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449274420&sr=1-1&keywords=cyberpower
Specially if your a Web Designer least you want is doing some extensive work and out of sudden all is lost due to a power shortage. :p
Any electronic over 150$ Plug it into UPS like this one.
Im guessing your outlet, and or your house has shity wiring.
i literally just bought two of these last week after having a 10 sec power outage. DS1515+ I tested and i have a good 70min before power is lost from the UPS. the 2nd UPS is hooked up to my desktop and monitor. roughly 2hr 10min before power is completely lost.
edit: adding pics
Synology UPS
Desktop UPS
This is the strip I mounted on the underside:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7O0EDQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is the UPS I'm using:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you tell me how it compares to this cyberlink model they look pretty much the same to me except price? Also what kind of usage did it see? Thanks! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_2?colid=259V432JVTPRO&coliid=I3A101U7F0OE45&vs=1
That's actually the exact same model I have! I bought it over 2 years ago. Still going strong.
It definitely earned it's price at my old apartment. Where I'm living now I've only experienced two brownouts, during one storm. While I may not really need it now, its great for those one or two times a year where it gives me reassures me my computer won't fry randomly. I think of it as insurance.
I agree with the OP though, it's not worth it to everyone. But definitely at the minimum get a well rated surge protector.
Edit: It's cheaper on Amazon
Get a UPS. I currently have this one which affords me 20 mins or so before the battery dies. I believe if you hook it up via usb it also has software you can install that will auto shutdown your PC for you in the event of a power outage.
A UPS will also combat what killed your mobo. When the voltage from the outlet fluctuates like that a good UPS will regulate the power going to your PC and keep it at a steady 120v.
I've been adding them along over time. My personal workstation has a 1325VA on it. All of networking (e.g. core switch, Google Fiber, Firewall) has a 1000VA attached.
Wife's work computer has something similar as well. They're handy if you can live with the incessant beeping when the power's out ;)
I'm using the CyperPower CP1350AVRLCD. It is compatible with my DS1512+, which is a pretty good indicator that it works on other Synology models.
If the electricity goes out a lot at your place, get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QZ3UG0/?tag=pcpapi-20
Then you will at least be able to safely shut everything down without risk to the components.
There are power supply testers out there but it may not test what you wish, you can run Prim95 on it and that will stress it out, if it dies again then you can almost be sure its the PSU. I would trash that Coolmax PSU (power supply) for a corsair 750 or more. You can also update your Nvidia driver and when on the install page select "remove old drivers" that will trash any old Nvidia drivers, also run CCleaner. If youre worried about the wall socket you can also pick up a "decent/cheap" UPS (battery backup) that will kick in and keep your computer running at proper voltage without having a brown out (under power) or a black out (no power). even this little guy will help you even if you upgrade your PSU http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412606992&sr=1-2
Nah, you need an UPS that's at the minimum higher than your computer's peak load. I imagine you'd also want to connect your monitor to it so that it's not cutting out as well. If you have a single GPU, your PC won't be over 400 watts, and you'd have to check your monitor's spec for that.
This 600 watt one would do it.
I was a long time user of Tripplite and APC, both are good, but caught a really good thanksgiving sale on some Cyberpower units with AVR. They've outlasted every Tripplite and APC I've ever owned. Basic unit, with AVR, or newer revision of what I'm using.
Make sure you get a unit with a user replaceable battery, many of the cheap models don't have that option any more, at least not without soldering and possibly breaking plastic.
Yep, I have both my cable modem and wireless router hooked into this UPS.
I combine that setup with a netbook that has an 8 hour battery, no worrying about power outages for me.
I'd go with just a simple back-up battery integrated into a powerstrip. Something like this. APC has multiple versions models in this line-up, so go with whatever suits you.
A genuine UPS will cost quite a bit more. The one I linked provides you with plenty of time to perform a graceful shutdown of all connected devices (I'm running a NAS and desktop + monitors on it, never ran out of juice before it was all down).
550va will not handle 400+ watts under full load. You really don't have to worry about that though because the odds you're computer will be under full load and actually close to that 400watt number are basically nil.
Usually you'll be under idle or near idle conditions or will be as soon as the power goes out. in which case your computer is more likely using around 100 watts or less monitor included.
I have basically the same system with an extra 6950. I use a 750va APC UPS and can last around 20 minutes under idle. The 750va UPS maxes out at 450watts. Running 3dmark ie stressing the hardware it warns me that I have less than 3 minutes of battery remaining. I would recommend at least a 750va ups for you.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE750G-10-Outlet-750VA-System/dp/B000Z80ICM/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_b
One of these suckers is what I'd recommend. Keep in mind every few years or so you'll need to replace the battery in it, but it'll screech at you when it's time.
Yes they are the shit. They protect and some companies will replace any equipment damaged.
I believe apc makes good products.
APC BE750G Back-UPS 750VA 10-outlet Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z80ICM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_EvqDwb0HNN3SX
This should keep you powered long enough to automatically shutdown.
Looks like an old APC-MGE Back-UPS ES
https://www.amazon.co.uk/APC-BE750G-Back-UPS-ES-uninterruptible/dp/B000Z80ICM
http://uk.pcmag.com/apc-back-ups-es-750/3113/review/apc-back-ups-es-750
Invest in a UPS.
I use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE750G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B000Z80ICM/ref=sr_1_12?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1452373682&sr=1-12&keywords=ups
But you might need something "better" if you're pulling more watts.
Did some investigating. I'm starting to think it's a power issue. I've been using a surge protector with a battery backup (like this one) so that if my power goes out, my PC doesn't immediately shut off. It's been having issues recently whenever I had multiple things plugged in, so today I bought a new one that I can plug everything into without issues.
When I turned my PC on after replacing the surge protector, my keyboard's RGB colors turned on (for weeks it's just been the default red with white WASD), but I couldn't type my password in. Unplugging both keyboard cords and plugging them back in brought back the default red color scheme, but I could type again.
So, I have two hypotheses:
Gonna try plugging my computer directly into the wall to see if that resolves it. If not, I'll have to figure out the wattage of my PSU.
Daily power outage? I think you need one of these babies: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8
That should keep the PS4 running for at least 13 minutes. Depending on your TV you may be able to plug it into the same unit, or you might have to get a larger one. If power comes back on in less than 13 minutes normally though you could just leave the PS4 on, just pause the game. Otherwise, 13ish minutes is plenty to save and quit. With a large TV you may only get 3 minutes though, still enough time to save and quit, or just get a larger backup battery.
APC are well known for quality UPS units for servers and the like. They make various consumer units as well. I have one similar to this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8?psc=1
It has a USB connection to the PC and can shut down the PC automatically if power to the UPS fails using their Parachute software
I have worked in IT for 12 years and we always use APC products. It is a rare occurrence to see one of them fail. I've had this one on my home computer for about 7 years now and it's still going strong.
Its junk get rid of it. I would recommend getting a back battery/surge protector similar to this.
If the house has electricity problems, you should definitely consider getting an uninterruptible power supply.
Maybe invest in something like this https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8 to keep your electronics safe.
You could certainly test your outlets to make sure they're properly grounded. Testers are very cheap at hardware stores.
Depending on what kind of machine you're using/how many outlets you need, a UPS could potentially help protect against future issues. They range from cheap, 10 minutes or so of backup power for a desktop, enough time to shut down cleanly when the power drops and go up from there.
Yeah, it's been a while since I've had any outages. I don't have any specific recommendations because the one I was using was found at my local university's surplus center for $5. I had to replace the battery, but it was fine after that. Something like this should be fine, but make sure you get one that can supply enough power for your printer to run off of it. 500W should be fine, but if you do the same upgrade I did with the additional 24V PSU, you may want to go for the 700W one. Anything should do.
Everyone who owns electronics should get a Uninterrupted Power Supply (UPS) http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/ref=lp_764572_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1417821806&sr=1-1
I was just thinking about purchasing this one, thoughts?
APC Back-UPS ES 8 Outlet 550VA 120V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_7CSFub066ETCJ
If you absolutely have to, you can use one of these on the outlet. HOWEVER, the box in the wall has to be grounded. You can test that with one of these. If it reads Open Ground then just don't do it - an electrician is a lot cheaper than replacing your stuff. A UPS is also a very smart investment.
If I were in your shoes and if I had that problem, I would spend big and kill the problem dead, dead, dead the fword dead.
I'd plug a 3000 Joule rated surge protector (like this one from Amazon) into the wall, and I'd plug a battery backed up Uninterruptable Power Supply into that (example). Then I'd connect the sensitive equipment to the UPS.
Wall_Socket <<---- beefy Surge Protector <<---- UPS <<---- Computer
Here
UPS for surge protection.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8
This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1372620408&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=backup+battery
Buy one, mount it near the modem and router, plug them into it, and it into the wall socket. That's it.
This is the one I have. It only uses about 1.8W so it'll only cost you about $2.54 annually to run it. It's fairly small, but it lasts longer that any power outage we've had since I bought it.
My main motivation when I bought it was because my alarm is IP based, not telephone or cell phone based. So in order for the alarm to work I need internet. Having WiFi in a power outage was just a happy byproduct.
I'm actually not too sure what to look for in them other than battery size and features that they list on the store pages. I asked for this one for Christmas, since it's not crazy pricey.
APC Back-UPS 550VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE550G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_SxnwybBDP27Y6
At work we use the nice like $150 ones.
You best bet is to get a small UPS like this one, get adapters for just the UPS, and run everything through the UPS.
The UPS will "clean" the power if it's dirty and if you have converter problems the UPS will blow instead of your expensive computers.
You should get a small UPS or two, set up one for your wife's computer and such and the other for the TV/Xbox
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/
Here you go sir:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1345479638&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=UPS
We are :-) Had a power outage 2 months ago that lasted about 4 hours with 20 second blips here and there. We could have lasted about an hour and a half longer by my calculations. The Tesla Power Walls that we have use integrated pure sign inverters, so the APC home UPS's https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8 work fine for us for those few lost seconds.
Edit: This was not set-up by the contractor to act in the typical Tesla Powerwall way, i.e. dis-charge during high rate hours and recharge during low rate hours daily. We pay a flat rate for our business power, so we set up our Powerwalls to cycle once per week. Perhaps our setup does not transfer as fast due to this. I am not sure.
Get a battery backup for your mining rig. Maybe something like this
I have a APC ES 550 USP, and it runs great, but for your needs and price you should look at the APC BR1300G.
What sort of horror stories have you heard? The batteries are designed to be user replaceable and (though I've never done this one) are typically very easy. Also, if you think that one is going (it will actually tell you when the battery has failed a self test on its built in web-page) you could swap the entire APC unit out with the one from your router. Even with a bad battery it should be able to keep your router up for longer than your desktop connected to an APC with a good battery.
Also no need for a surge protector. You can hook one to it, or hook it into one, and it won't hurt it though. Just take care not to draw more than the device can handle.
And it may be a little overkill to have one of these just for a fios box and one just for a router. You'll get many many times the run time on those two as your will your TV or especially your tower. Something like this would still keep those two boxes up far longer than your PC and cost a fraction.
I've got two of these and I love them. There's an app that will monitor if the battery backup is being used and you can set to to have the computer gracefully shutdown before the power runs out. nice feature
apc ups
Something like this would run the pumps for a couple hours I would assume. The one I linked I believe will run 165w for 13minutes. You can get bigger and bigger ones if you are fearful of power being out for more than an hour.
Depending on your tank size and power draw, a UPS could keep your filter / heater running for some time.
But not indefinitely.
They range from about $40 to thousands, depending on capacity.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-Back-UPS-6-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B001985SWW?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=apc%20ups&amp;qid=1465327349&amp;ref_=sr_1_4&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-4
Any "smart UPS" will automatically power off your system at low power. However, these will usually come at a premium.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5xHAbSHQ32MJ
If we're talking brownouts just buy a UPS.
I have 7 of these.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1000G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467984046&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=APC+UPS&amp;psc=1
Not a huge fan off offbrand UPS's. I have however been using this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=twister_B00EU2ZXCO?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1 for years. It's been great with bad weather and power outages where I live. (Which seem to be fairly common for some odd reason) Don't think I've ever had any issues with Cyberpower equipment, I have had issues with APC batteries dying quickly though so I don't get those anymore, but thats just a personal experience.
I use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/
Saved my ass, multiple times. First one ate at least a dozen strikes that blew quite a bit of stuff in the other rooms, before it finally died after a strike hit the cable line (which went through the UPS) and that was the end. All connected electronics were fine, though. So I bought another.
Lasted almost 5 years, best money I've spent.
i suggest a
APC BR1000G Back-UPS Pro 1000
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1000G-Back-UPS-Uninterruptible-Supply/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/
that will give you about 14 minutes of runtime for a 300w load
that is the best midrange ups on the market
but avoid the 1500 and 1300 in this series (they have an insanely noisy fan and no speed control on it and it stay on for an obscene period)
It could affect the amplifier for sure, especially if playing...Sudden power decrease can cause the protection circuit to operate strangely or cause clipping to the signal. Personally I'm just using an APC with voltage regulation, nothing fancy: http://www.amazon.ca/APC-BR1000G-Back-UPS-Uninterruptible-Supply/dp/B0038ZTZ3W
If you feel you need more AC massaging then those audiophile ones might be better.
It might not solve a direct strike, but if the grid is hit, something like this might help
https://www.amazon.com/CHSPT2ULTRA-Ultimate-Protection-Length-Height/dp/B01AQAKRSS
Into say...
https://www.amazon.com/ESP-Surge-Protector-Filter-Monitor/dp/B071P3P9XM
Power conditioner
Into say...
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK
Would keep stuff online
Before you go and buy a fancy strip with surge protection for $50+, consider investing in something like the CyberPower - CP1500AVRLCD UPS. This is not just a phenomenal surge protector, but will also keep your things running, depending on power draw, between 3 and 20 minutes realistically.
The one I have is OK haven't had any problems. I plan on getting a new one soon with larger capacity. Been looking at this one, CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS 1500VA 900W AVR Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lrjvxbDWFYNKH
heh I have a UPS, http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
Rated for 900w I pull 835 or so when running firestrike. One of the only reasons I want to upgrade is to reduce power consumption.
Thanks for posting that info. I'm not the OP but I'm building my new rig now and I often have power spikes where my lamps dim when the AC kicks on so I've worried about that. Is there any special type of UPS you'd recommend for this? I saw Amazon has this for $140 which is what I was leaning towards as its well reviewed.
Could someone explain the difference between these two CyberPower Mini Towers?
The second link is scheduled to go on sale at 2PM PST, so dont want to pull the trigger yet if it's better option
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00429N192/ref=gbps_tit_m-5_c3b6_60a45294?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_p=482d9e02-4fa5-484b-a155-d8026edfc3b6&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=14403644011&amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_r=9BN0Q69EZFWR3A45G1KB
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=gbps_tit_m-5_c3b6_27a5b1ae?pf_rd_p=482d9e02-4fa5-484b-a155-d8026edfc3b6&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=14403644011&amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_r=H137KBAT9620JWCEHD0C
So I would want this one?
It goes on sale in an hour and a bit.
Look at the comparison grid for the AVR UPS you linked (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000FBK3QK/), that differentiates it from a pure sine wave unit. The comparison grid on the page for the pure sine wave UPS compares that UPS to several much higher end units.
And one easy way to check wattage would be to make a list of your build on something like PC Part Picker and it will estimate the wattage.
Yep it's a good deal, I actually considered buying a second one today. I did have an issue where I had to get them to adjust the price over chat now that I think about it so maybe there was something buddy with the item? Definitely worth the hassle. There's actually another one without sine wave but 1500va on right now as a lightning deal for $138. CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS 1500VA 900W AVR Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qnAHxb692DZX8
Glad to be of help. For a realistic example, I suggest this unit (maybe watch for some sales?) I use this on my gaming & work pc, with 3x monitors and beefier setup I'm pulling 270 watts and looking at about 20 minutes of runtime - https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK I use a 625va on my router & switch, and can get a few hours out of that.
of course! i used these brackets first and velcro'd all the wires together to run them through. I used 3M tape for the power banks and superglue for the LED strips. I'm using 2 outlets to power everything, one of which leads to a UPS which handles a ton of the power management.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK
Select the 600VA option.. Not bad for $60. Has 8 outlets, 4 of which are backed up by the battery.
I have my rig, PS4, 360, and Monitor plugged into the backup slots. Keep in mind that it's only going to last a few minutes on battery, but it's better than a complete outage.
Do you see the same issue with this product?
http://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK?ie=UTF8&amp;keywords=cyberpower&amp;qid=1464119373&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;s=pc&amp;sr=1-1
It's this 1500VA/900 Watt UPS. I was assuming I'd be wiring in parallel.. I should also point out that this is 12 gauge AWM.
>Does that mean that I can do 400w for 7.5 minutes?
Mostly, yes, but it will probably be more like 5 minutes.
And, yes, you can plug in a power strip to support more devices.
Keep in mind that high-capacity backup units are pretty cheap so it isn't the end of the world if you have to buy another.
Fun fact, you can daisy chain them to run them longer.
Surge protectors don't always help :/ . I have something similar to this . It's expensive, but it saves you money in the long run.
For heating Im someone who gets over heated in 50°F weather (idk the celcsius conversion but essentially its cold for most people). In my case i would find a personal space heater, as the one i own already makes me sweat with one blanket on and the thing on low heat pointed at me. Idk what the power consumption is but if u just keep the van well insulated and are cozied up with a bigger electric heater than maybe you'll be fine.
As far as water goes I would just get a big 5 gallon bottle from the grocery store (unless that's just a stupid American thing idk). Often keeping one and just bringing it back to the store u can refill it for way cheaper than the original purchase.
Also for a toilet ive heard composting ones are pretty great but thats something I havent looked into yet.
When it comes to how you would power the van id say that one will be hard because I heard the UK is mostly cloudy meaning solar could work but youre not going to get much out of it and really only could charge a phone or something off it. There are giant battery packs you can buy like
this: CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gLXqDbNZ1G63C.
obviously that's american plugs so find something suitable for your power draw and for your socket type. That you would have to plug in somewhere else to charge though which could take some time #1 but it would at least be portable in a sense rather than strapping batteries down and having those external camper plugs that you would have to drive somewhere to charge up.
way to expensive.
This: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474007465&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cyberpower
Just for others who fear this, you can put one of these into your home and the heater will continue to work: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473689594&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Uninterruptible+power+supply
UPS systems have only 1-3 minutes of so of run time at maximum power. You may want a UPS with AVR (voltage regulation) if you're switching to a locally generated source. You'll need to scale your UPS by the maximum power rating: a 1500VA unit: https://smile.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK a 600VA unit: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000OTEZ5I
you can get cyberpower 1500va units for around $150. They are amazing products. this could very well be overkill but the price point is good and you have plenty of headroom for upgrades.
My neighbors are frequently confused when their power is out but they still see my lights and TV on and they hear the audio playing.
I have several of these Uninterruptible Power Supplies. Sometimes they're on sale from as low as $100-120, with their regular prices from $150-200. This cheeper one uses a modified stepped-wave inverter that will work with most electronics, but this better one has a pure sinewave inverter output that will work for even the most sensitive medical equipment. You can use the CamelCamelCamel price checker plugin app for Amazon to watch for price drops.
If you build a few PCs and get a few SmartTVs that are highly power efficient, then you can have enough backup power for Internet, phone, cable TV and LED lighting for more hours than any recent power outage. I have an ultra low power 35W TDP PC and 4K TV for under 100 watts.
These Cyberpower units claim to regulate voltage to some degree ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_ZIUDDbSHBS2SS ). They sell them at Costco also. I was using one for about four years, then it started turning off sometimes at night. I could get it back on, but a week later it would always be off again randomly. Anyway, I think it was worth the price.
I think APC sells very similar units that have the same or better AVR features.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494960743&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=cyberpower+ups
been considering this one myself
Well, a treadmill will probably run you a few thousand (5 to 10 probably), so you shouldn't have any problem spending an extra $150 on a UPS:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK
Hmm... either you've had bad experiences with yours, or I've just had really good experiences with mine (I have the 1000VA version). It took a while to tweak it and get it right, but once I did, it's been flawless. I've had the power go out at least 3 times when losing data would have been crippling, and it gave me about 5 minutes (running two monitors, my tower and my router/modem) to save everything and shut down. I was never so relieved. Plus, once I shut down the PC and shut off the monitors, it keeps the router and modem going, which means I still get Wifi on my phone for a solid hour while I wait for the power to come back on.
GET YOURSELF A UPS. THEY CAN POWER YOUR COMPUTER FOR WHEN YOUR POWER GOES OUT AND THEY MODULATE VOLTAGE OUTPUT WHICH CAN MAKE YOUR PSU LAST LONGER. AT LEAST THE ONE I LINKED DOES.
Got one of These
Never fear a power outage, surge or loss :)
thank you for the list
I am still researching
DORIand differences between cameras, but from what I gathered so far here is what I need:i7-6700something like thisONVIF,PoEcamerasthe last bit I am still looking at. I am not ready to spend several hundred dollars per camera (one of your examples is Dahua 2MP Starlight which seems to be super expensive). While I understand it might be much better than the rest, I'd like to see if I can be in a $50 to $100 dollar range per camera. Is there any such cameras you can recommend?
I can see some (
ONVIF,PoE): Hikvision 4MP, ONWOTE 5MP, ONWOTE, 4X Optical Zoom Autofocus, Amcrest ProHD, GW Security 5, JideTech PTZ, etc. but I am not sure how to gauge the quality.This one looks pretty good:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=sl1&tag=poweri04-20&linkId=07572fedcc1649adb382edd7948ff1fd
Unless its too pricey. Whats your budget?
This one has a review (with picture proof) of a cyberpower UPS catching on fire:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538419007&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cyberpower+ups
Thanks to the link to refurbups.com, for some reason I totally forgot about that site (had been aware of it before).
Is there a way for you to set up automatic periodic saving? :)
Sounds like something like that would save you a ton of trouble.
Also, how long are the power outages usually? A few seconds, to a few minutes?
I'm thinking a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) here, something like https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-1500VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?tag=hotoge-20 would at least give you a few minutes of warning before the computer shuts down.
Factory resetting the camera usually involves a reset button on the camera itself (push and hold when powering on) then just add it back to the NVR with the same password. Check the NVR system log carefully for any indications of improper shutdown or power loss. If you see these, consider putting the system on an inexpensive UPS like a Cyberpower to protect it from issues resulting from power loss. If no such entries are found in the log, consider replacing the cable running to that particular camera as you might have an intermittent power loss due to poor/damaged cabling. Good luck.
Good:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/
Better:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/
A battery backup as in a UPS. I was wondering if you were having a power delivery issue to the monitor. But you deleted your post so I don't remember if you said that you updated your display port drivers? https://www.nvidia.com/object/nv-uefi-update-x64.html
Also under after burner go to settings ---> monitoring ---> uncheck power then hit apply
My CR-10 burns about 150w while in use, and I'd assume the CR-10 S5 would use more to heat the bigger build surface. Get something with at least 600 Wh.
I have mine on something like this and it works great.
I got this one from Amazon (old version so it looks a bit different) about two years ago and it's been solid.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=twister_B00TUXM6PA?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Look into GeoVision camera and 8ch NVR. Then like the last guy said have the contractor lay down the cat5 where you want the camera to NVR.
With geovision you can have the NVR plugged directly into internet and stash it in the closet. Then you can use a mini shitty old pc, download their remote viewer called “edge recording manager”, plug the pc into the tv in the lobby, and have it broadcasting off tv in the lobby for everyone to see.
The for the mobile they have an app called GV-eye. It’s pretty good! Just make sure you have the correct ports open on your router, so everything can talk and play nicely!
NVR: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323421060448
Cameras: https://www.nothingbutsavings.com/Product/388784-GeoVision-GV-EDR2100-2F-2MP-H264-Low-Lux-WDR-IR-Mini-Fixed-Rugged-IP-Dome-783555124574?ai=1550&amp;utm_source=google&amp;utm_medium=cpc&amp;adpos=1o5&amp;scid=scplp388784&amp;sc_intid=388784&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjw_vfcBRDJARIsAJafEnHsjkdQyFEOQC-ZHK9Ir0FPrfdQd7DDv5ZUvG87HWdsfun-4F0iHtgaAvUhEALw_wcB
EXTRA BROWNIE POINTS: add a UPS and plug your router, internet modem, and NVR to have backup power in outages! CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p.UNBbW9VZVD1
I'm asking about the wall outlet voltage. If you're in the US it's 115V (well, 110).
The higher the watts, the more equipment you can put on it.
The higher the Joules the better surge protection.
Some UPS's put out a sine wave on battery, some don't. A sine wave is needed for 100% compatibility, but many machines work fine when not on a sine wave.
Here's some examples below... of course there are much more expensive options too.
This one can output 900W, 1030J suppression (and it outputs a Sine wave):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W?ref=emc_b_5_t
This one can output 900W, 1500J suppression (It does NOT output a sine wave):
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=pd_lpo_23_lp_tr_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=G3C88Q3PEAQMH1YM3QG9
This one can do 865W, 354J (probably not a sine wave):
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=pd_lpo_23_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;refRID=G3C88Q3PEAQMH1YM3QG9&amp;th=1
Also, based on your PC Part list, you could get use a 810W (1350VA) model too.
When gaming the 970 will draw about 150W (up to 300W if overclocked), your i5 will draw 80 - 120 W depending on the specific model, and including the rest of the components your tower as a whole will probably be closer to 400W than 200W. Throw in 50W for a standard LCD monitor and 15W for a router/modem, and your total power draw will be closer to 465W assuming you aren't overclocking your GPU or CPU. For a system like this I would recommend something like this.
This is what I have. It supports a PC with a 750 watt psu, two LCDs, and my MacBook pro. I think it'll power my pc and dual LCDs for 50 minutes on battery. It cleans the power source for everything I plug into it.
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS 1500VA 900W AVR Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_DnVTub1SN40J4
CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD Intelligent LCD UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 12 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L1aSDb34Y7AJF
that one and just until i can shut down everything properly.
ASUS MG248QR
Gonna be getting and ACER Predator
(Old) HP 2011x
From the other suggestions, it's most likely the outlet you are plugged into. I would suggest purchasing a UPS similar to this one so it would compensate for whatever power drop occurs from that outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520645143&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=UPS+AVR
This is what I'm currently looking at, I'm just unsure if 900w is sufficient for my desktop 650w PSU, and also my monitor and a few other things like headset/mouse etc...
But the UPS does list it as AVR, and it seems to be well received on amazon.
Seems to have expired as of 11 PM PST 12/28/2016.
Amazon seems to still have the lowered price:https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500AVRLCD-Intelligent-Mini-Tower-Features/dp/B000FBK3QK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482994821&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=cyberpower+1500avrAmazon no longer lists it at that price as of 11 AM PST, 12/29/2016.
Edit: Additional Information
I do plan on upgrading my gpu down the road. The UPS I was looking at was this one
I just got an EVGA P2 1000W PSU and I'm looking to get a UPS for my new build.
Will my PSU be fine with a simulated (square) sine UPS? Or do I need a pure sine one?
Will this work?
Or do I need this?
They have the same capacity, they just differ in the output type.
Price History
ReviewMeta: ★★★★☆ 4.2/5 from 3934 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
_
Put those prices in Checkmate.
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdzrf0b%2Fups_cyberpowerpc_pure_sine_wave_1325va810wups%2Ff8au5xl%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
That battery is 35 amp-hours vice the 28 Ah in the one I linked. Assuming comparable losses in the converter, you could expect a similar and slightly longer run time. A typical UPS for home/office use like this one has about 10-15 Ah. It would power a laptop for probably 1.5-2 hours.
I'm telling you this right here could give you the time needed to shut your stuff down and if you do it quickly, leave far more than enough to run a router/modem for a while. I know it's hard to justify the cost but suddenly shutting down your PC with the heads of the harddrive not in the resting area can cause more headaches (and be more expensive) then not having this. If it saves your harddrive one time it's more than paid for itself. A harddrive alone will be the cost of this and when you throw in the fact you will lose hours upon hours of trying to get a new harddrive, installing it, installing your OS, replacing everything you lost. You come out ahead.
Also, as a bonus, those pictures of yours that you can't replace because you never made a backup copy, won't be forever gone. Two things that every computer should have and you don't want to skimp on cost with. A battery backup and a power supply. Let a cap bust in your cheap PSU and you're replacing the whole thing. Let a power surge come through when the lights kick back in and you should grab the marshmallows and roast them over the fire and melted plastic that used to be your PC.
Holy shit those are expensive.
Looking on amazon I found this to be sutible. Looks like it has some neat features and is much more affordable.
To add to this, especially if you're protecting a desktop computer, you may want to consider an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Most have the same features as a high-end surge protector, but will also safely shut down your computer using the USB interface. I personally use this one for my main rig.
Looking to get an UPS... My roommates trip the circuit breaker at least twice a week and I really want to protect my investment
Heres my build:
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/p8tfP3
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/p8tfP3/by_merchant/
CPU: Intel - Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: MSI - Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: Kingston - HyperX Fury Black 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
Storage: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.00 @ Adorama)
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC GAMING ACX 3.0 Black Edition Video Card
Case: Fractal Design - Define S ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RM 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 8.1 OEM 64-bit
Monitor: BenQ - XL2411Z 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor
Monitor: BenQ - XL2411Z 24.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor
Keyboard: Corsair - K70 Wired Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: ROCCAT - NYTH Wired Laser Mouse
Total: $49.00
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-03 04:01 EDT-0400
LMK if the Cyberpower or the APC would be good choices. Im a bit worried since I picked up a massive PSU that I really didnt need. (My build changed over time)
Im assuming that my max power would be under 500 watts but im not sure how that changes under load. Any help would be appreciated
Nope, I am running EthOS and it's not a shutdown, the battery literally get sucked dry. It seems odd to me as I would think the battery should only be in use when the power supply is not available, but that appears to not be the case. My guess is the power draw (1500w effective) is too much for the UPS. Looking at the UPS I tried on my rig, it says 900w. Perhaps that is the issue.
Although I can't answer your question, I would definitely recommend getting a UPS. I live in the country and have relatively frequent power outages, so I got one and it's kept my desktop and NAS going for months through many blinks and brownouts. This is the one I use, which is a bit overkill in terms of how much power my setup actually uses: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/
I bought a Cyberpower 900W recently and love it. I upgraded from an APC 600W and it's remarkable how much better it is. My PC can last about 30 minutes on power now (3 minutes on my old one) and the UPS has the ability to connect via USB to the PC. It even shows a battery icon in the task bar, exactly as if it was a laptop. Solid buy for anyone needing a good UPS.
This is the one I have. It's been a little over a year that I've been using it and it works great. For my setup it gives more than enough time to save your progress and shut down. I have had times where I kept playing and the power came back on before I decided to save and shut down, granted the power was out for only a few minutes. But at least for me it gives me the piece of mind that all my gear is protected from any surges.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
What about this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=psdcmw_764572_t1_B00429N19W
They are free-standing. I believe it's these two:
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000QZ3UG0/
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/
I can't seem to find the runtime chart for this one but it is 900w. Would that last for about an hour?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Yeah I went with this one from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
It's not viable to run a refrigerator on a UPS for an appreciable amount of time. Newer refrigerators don't surge as high on startup although the defrost cycle could pose a problem. I have this UPS for my computer and it can support a 900w load which means it can support a modern refrigerator easily. This unit has 2x 9Ah batteries, that's 216Wh before inverter losses. My desktop, monitors, speakers, etc are pulling 180w right now and the UPS says it has 43 minutes of runtime.
I have a 1-year old 18cuft refrigerator in my garage and with a kill-a-watt I measured 140w starting and once it settled down it ran at 108w. That's excellent if I have to run it on a generator, but that's a heavy load for a battery. 24hrs @ 50% run cycle would require 1,300Wh. That's going to require 240Ah of 12v lead acid batteries @ 50% depth of discharge. That's ~$400 in just batteries. A UPS that size is going to cost you thousands.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=zg_bs_764572_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=S5PP6DH35PY84ZW03T7B
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00516547C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1374986466&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SL75
Check this system out. I recently installed a similar system for a client. 480 TVL is the typical entry level camera resolution. Zmodo is easy to install and there is a ton of support in forums. Of course I installed a 1tb zmodo system with 8 dome cameras. Wired is definitely the way to go. I recommend installing a battery backup as well. Youll want to make sure you have internet and a router hooked up at the house.
Here is a link to a decent cheap battery backup: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FBK3QK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1374986911&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SL75
Let me know if you have any questions ill be happy to answer any you have. Also if ya end up installing this type of system make sure to tell your insurance company they usually give you a nice discount.
I found one for you guys! [UPS] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
It feels like a case but it's a UPS
I went with this one but their are many different sizes for different needs. After doing some research I learned there are also 3 different types of UPS's and I decided that "Line-Interactive" was best for my situation.
Try this. A voltage regulator/ups will make sure your power is always clean, saving wear and tear on your expensive audio gear. The battery backup is great, you'll never lose a session.
I can not speak from experiance, but here in the U.S I have a UPS for our DVR/Cable box and Router. That way when the power goes out we can still use laptops, and get the TV on briefly. AT&T gave us this and I it works well and has an 8 Hour Battery life.
The one I have has no computer interaction, its just a battery that outputs power when the power goes out. Amazon has this, which seems to be fairly good. Has 8 outlets and computer controlls for to regulate various settings
I'm sure someone else on here can tell you more, but I hope this can give you some more foundation.
Of course, happy to help!
22K! That is insane!! I'm very jealous! I ran with ~9000 for years, now I'm at about 12,000... that must be a beast!
There is cheaper DAS units as well... I have seen a 4 drive one that doesn't do RAID's for 80-130 dollars. I think I saw a few on newegg. I say this if your looking to save some money... some people can't afford a nice NAS with nice drives etc... as it can quickly cost thousands.
Correct, a NAS would be connected through your LAN. I doubt there would be any lag if both your server and the NAS are on the same network and hardwired (ethernet). You would have incredibly fast times. Also just a helpful tip regarding speeds/throughput... most hard drives (especially the cheaper large 3.5" HD's) don't have good enough read/write speeds... People use RAID's to improve these, however typically will not get anywhere near full GB read/write speeds. It all depends on how nice of HD's you get, how many, and the RAID configuration. But don't worry about it too much, because my highest bitrate movie is only 75mbps (not even MBps)...
Correct, so if you loose your public IP or the ISP drops your internet, your local network would remain up and be fine. (Unless you have a power outage and the router turns off at your house...) But if its just the Internet outage, you can still watch all your Plex content and see it just fine locally (ethernet or wifi). The server and NAS would be able to talk to one-other without any issues as well, as the connection doesn't leave your LAN. I actually put my server on a UPS to help protect the server (more the HD's) in case of power surges and even short term power outages. I can now run my entire network and Plex server for about an hour and a half on battery backup alone. Unfortunately my TV doesn't have a UPS... so I'm limited to streaming on a laptop or phone that is charged... first world problems I guess? lol
Yes depending on how you RIP them, 12-15TB seams like it should be plenty of storage. Also if you RIP them and make them slightly smaller files (Like 20-30GB) you can easily save a TON of space. I honestly have not been able to really see a difference between my 25GB files and my 75GB files.... HEVC is another great way to insure that you save as much space as possible. Just be sure your server/clients can use it! Maybe do a few tests first?Test 1) Try doing HEVC to see that your server and clients can support it.Test 2) Try to RIP the same movie in full lossless, and another with something like 25GB HEVC etc... then watch them and see if you can really tell a difference.
Also I would keep in mind that if you RIP them in full quality (say a 75gb movie). It is streaming at 70mbps... that means if you want to watch that movie outside your home... you not only have to have very good (at least 75mbps upload) at your house, but you also must have 75mbps downloading speed wherever you are at trying to watch it. Transcoding files that big can be extremely hard on the server as well, so keep that in mind and maybe test out a few transcodes before your RIP your entire library.
This is why I have an entire movie library of smaller 1-5GB movies, and an entire 2nd movie library for my 4K UHD, HDR content. You can also use Plex's "optimize" feature to optimize a lower bitrate one for people remotely.
Yes, the NAS is perfect for the storage closet! Just throw it in, power it up and get it on the Network and forget about it. You can treat it like your personal "Cloud Storage". If money is not a concern, I would go with a NAS for sure. You likely wouldn't need to upgrade for the rest of your life... and can use it for all sorts of stuff (Computer backups, Phone backups, and of course Plex movies/music/tv shows, pictures etc...) A 6 bay might be more than what you need, but would be extremely scaleable and could easily allow for a 2 drive failure, so you wouldn't have anything to worry about.
Lastly, I would use a RAID Calculator to help determine what size drives you need. Remember that different RAID's will lose some of your overall storage available. So play around with it to see which ones allow you to have more drives failed, and which ones give you the storage you want. (typically "Less Storage" RAIDs means more drives can fail and its more redundant and faster speed/performance, "More storage" RAIDs means less drives can fail, and typically less redundant and less speed/performance)
If money is NOT a concern and your needing/wanting roughly 12-15TB of storage. I would plan to have a little extra for growing room...I would get a 6 bay NAS, with (4) 6TB Drives, configured in a RAID 6. It's not a perfect setup right now, but is laying a very solid foundation for you to grow into for many years to come.This would get you realistically around 11TB's of storage, and you would be able loose 2 Drives without any data loss. You also get 4 times the read speeds, which is fantastic for streaming out to others. I would then start ripping movies... and see where you get to... You may find you don't even use that much, but if you do... you can easily drop in 1 more 6tb drive bringing you to a total of 18tb. Then for your "wiggle room" you can drop in yet another drive bringing you to a grand total of 24TB of storage. (Same 2 disks can fail and 4 times read speed).If your buying a nice NAS (Like Synology) and using quality reputable drives (Like WD RED's), along with a very conservative RAID configuration (Like RAID 6). You will likely NEVER have any storage issues. The only thing I would do to further guarantee this, is to throw the NAS on a UPS to insure power outages don't get the best of the drives, and shut down the NAS if the UPS is going to run out of battery.... (this can be automated).
Again for a more budget build, you can simply just attach (2) 8TB external drives, mirror them and have 16TB of storage to use, with double the read speed. *Bonus, you can get 2 more to back up everything to*This would be just a few hundred dollars compared to nearly $1500 dollars for the above setup... AND you can later shuck (take apart the casing of an external drive) and add the drives to a DAS or NAS.
I just purchased and installed this UPS for my desktop. Is there anything I should know when it comes to these things? Do I just plug in my PC and that's it? I'm not sure if this thing is even worth it because CyberPower says that "true sine wave" is better for desktops and this one is simulated sine wave.
SCENARIOS:
---
Test involves TX on the Baofeng.
As you implied, the inline fuses on the radio never popped, so I know the mobile wasn't actually drawing more than 15A. So either the KAW is being interfered with, or the PSU is.
As far as the UPS blowing up - it was already drawing 325W powering my computers, so I assume that 50W on the mobile might have put it over its rating. I can't believe it didn't have some overcurrent protection (that works).
For the aerators, we bought a bunch of these Baby Bubbles aerators for bait buckets. They say they aerate up to 3 gallons, but it's more like 55, easily - great for sponge filters, too. The AA battery version lasts about 19 hours.
For everything else, CyberPower 1350VA UPS. Since we live in Pinellas, we can turn the air off and unplug the heaters to reduce load on the battery.
I really hope what I did is enough. We had to evacuate, and I'm fearing for my German blue Rams and my apisto. If it comes to it guys, eat the damn tetras!
a PS3 draws right about 200W, I would guess the TV draws about 450W but can't find a good power spec on it. So, you'd need a UPS that's got a capacity of at least 650W. Just based off which one you were looking at it seems this one is the next size up with 810W.
Assuming the total draw is within the threshold I'd just plug both PSUs into a power strip or UPS and then plug that into the Wemo. I wouldn't want to have my mining rig plugged directly into the wall anyway.
I plan on getting a UPS for this eventually but I'm pretty sure you have to get a an Active PFC UPS and an non-active PFC UPS will not work. I'm basing this on when I purchased a UPS for my media server. I bought the non-active one I linked initially and it didn't work, did more research, and had to buy the active one that I linked which did work. Newer ATX PSU's require it I believe. For the time being I'm just using a power strip to plug it in.
I have this one. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OFXKFI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It's done me well these past couple of years, enough power to keep my PC on for 30 minutes or so after an outage so I don't have to worry about rushing to save something. Also the brown outs don't bother me or my PC/Monitor/Router/Modem anymore.
I have an EVGA 750G2 PSU.
UPSs are a bit outside my wheel house. How would that compare to this one: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Thanks I am going to order this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nuvyDb5VKM0PK
It is on Synology’s website as tested by them.
Non-mobile link
I bought https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0 from MicroCenter a while ago. It should be enough to filter somewhat? I don't have the kind of money for that isolation transformer right now unfortunately as we're moving out soon and this is a temporary solution.
Edit: wrong link. Actual ups was http://www.microcenter.com/product/449053/1000VA_UPS_with_LCD_Display
Surge protectors protect against... A surge of voltage, Transient Voltage. This can be helpful in protecting your electronic equipment, but we are also dealing with a Hard Drive, and power can fluctuate higher and lower. In this case a surge protector does nothing if the voltage drops.
Now, if you use a UPS battery backup, you have a constant stead stream of electricity. On top of a surge protector, you are now covered for any dips in voltage as well.
I personally have lost too many Hard Drives when nothing out of the ordinary had happened. Since switching over to having one battery backup at my computer and one behind the entertainment center for my DVR and PS3/PS4 (since they all have hard drives), I have not had a single problem or issue.
I had an original PS3 Fat that worked up until about a year ago, when i had moved and had it in my bedroom because i bought a second PS3 slim for the living room for better energy consumption purposes. The wiring in the bedroom was faulty and tied to the bathroom, which would constantly trip the breaker. The original PS3 only lasted about a month before it just died one day. Now you could say thats just a coincidence, but I know that the power in the room was constantly tripping, and faulty, and the PS3 ended up kicking the bucket.
BTW, I use CyberPower backups... theyre not too expensive and very reliable. I have a few at work, and 2 at home, and have never had an issue. They also dont die like the crappy APC ones do, or get dead batteries after a year or two. I highly recommend for anyone concerned in protecting their HDDs on computers or Consoles with HDDs.
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404414676&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=cyberpower
I have an UPS (Uninterruptible power supply) that has a voltage readout on the front (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_lrtnDbQ9W7FFW) and it automatically levels out the line voltage.
This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.
>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&amp;hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&amp;hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/
That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.
That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.
Get a UPS with a surge protector
UPS question: what are the differences between this UPS and this one?
Which would be more 'compatible' with my g2 550w PSU?
LOL yes, that's an online version, which is why it's so expensive. A similar rated line interactive model would be closer to $110-120 or so.
Edit: Here's an example 600W CyberPower modelfor $110, and a slghtly larger 720W Tripp-Lite model for $123
http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1343969513&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=uninterruptible+power+supply
Great unit. Had it running in my home's AV closet for years without a problem. Pick the size that works for you. Ultra-reliable.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481389282&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=backup+battery+power+supply Would i be better off with this?
I'm currently using this one and I was wrong about the heaters, they're not hooked up to it. I think they would drain the battery too quickly, so I only had the powerhead hooked up. With only that, the UPS should last at least a few hours. Will need to hook up heaters and return pump to a gas generator in future!
TBH if I were you I'd just buy a battery operated air pump and connect it to an air driven sponge filter! In fact I'd prbably buy a mains driven air pump too, a T-piece and some non return valves and connect it all up together.. Have the filter running of the mains driven air pump most of the time, so when you get a power cut you have a cycled filter ready to go, just turn on the battery pump!
Very low power requirement for the air pump, will last a long time and can be a real life save in the tank!
Alternatively look into a larger UPS style set up.. They're typically more common for salt-water reef tanks as they're often a lot more complex (and orders of magnitude more expensive!), but no reason not to us it for fresh water.. This will sit plugged in to your main supply, and if/when you get a power cut it automatically switches supply over to battery backup! I'd just stick the bare essentials on UPS though, filter and possibly heater (depending on your country/ambient temperature), no need to run the lights through a powercut!
Power loss can cause data loss if you're in the middle of a write to eight different drives. As far as the power conditioning goes, I don't really know. UPSes are pretty cheap compared to NASes (I have this one and it integrates very nicely with DSM) anyway. It's also nice to plug in your router, cable modem, etc, so you can have a few minutes to an hour of internet time if your power goes.
If you just need a few minutes to shut down your machine (these will do it for you), take a look at one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000QZ3UG0?cache=2de16ccedc6df6229d48525bd8753184&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1410820519&amp;sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2
There is a 900 watt unit if 600 is not enough. The batteries are replaceable but they are not "true sine wave" output (nor do they cost an arm and a leg). This has never been a problem for me or my PC's. I own two of the 600 watt units and couldn't be happier with them.
I have one of these and haven't seen any issues yet.
Okay so I got like 2 questions regarding cable management.
I found three candidates, lemme know if there's a better one: First, Second, Third.
For the past two years I've had this one hooked up to my components and it's worked flawlessly. I haven't tested it to the limits or had an instance where it's been utilized for more than 10-20 minutes, but none of the components have shut down yet. I just basically plugged it in and put it to work. It can also be connected to your computer via USB or ethernet so you can keep track of power usage, which is a handy feature.
Components I have on backup protection are my computer (750w PSU, 6 HD's, 2600K, 2x270's), 46" LCD TV & Onkyo Receiver. All other non-essentials are just on regular surge protection and if an outtage occurs, the computer automatically gets thrown into "essentials only" mode.
Every time there's been a sudden power surge or the power goes out, and I hear the unit click on, I get a smile on my face and remember that it was completely worth the $100 I spent on it. I don't know how people can live without one any more!
Edit: Make sure you research your actual power usage and qualify it against the units available at the link I provided. You may not need as much power as the exact one I linked.
You could look through here on their different surge protectors/battery backups if you want.
I use this one though.
TIL more people need to learn what UPCs are...
Are these battery packs the UPS/Backup/Surge protector type things such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE750G/dp/B000Z80ICM
I got a UPS/surge protector for free, it was something like this one. (not exactly like that, it has an RJ45 labeled "Serial" I think). Would that be good enough or should I get a different one? (The one I have does have a serial port for remote accessing the Web UI, but it requires a special connector - RJ45 to USB, and I don't think they mean ethernet - and the port might be dead). Do I need some way for the server to shut itself down when on battery power or can I live without that? How bad would it be if the power was cut from the R710? (if the power was out for more than the battery in the UPS, even though that is extremely unlikely where I live)
Hello!
Is there anything I should know/check when buying a used UPS? This is the UPS I want to buy, but it's not really absolutely required for me to go buy a new one, because I don't absolutely need it but it's a nice to have.
Here's the UPS in question. Used ones run like < 50% of the current price.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z80ICM/
I'm looking to get a UPS, but I'm not sure which one to get.
I would only need to it run for like 5-10 minutes, Standard save and shutdown.
My questions is would it be possible to connect two computers to one UPS? Mine is the cookie-cutter 4690k/970 while my girlfriends is just a standard prebuilt dell. Would say this one,
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE750G-Saving-Battery-Back-UPS/dp/B000Z80ICM
support both computers and 4 monitors? or would I have to buy two of them.
Don't get a cheap outlet like that. You should definitely get a good surge protector, its a very good insurance. Also if you live in a place where your power goes out occasionally i would recommend an APC. This is the one I have, not only does it protect against power surges in case of a power outage my computer can stay running for several hours. Very handy if you are working on a project, document, or even that Skyrim play through.
http://www.amazon.ca/APC-Back-UPS-BE750G-10-Outlet-System/dp/B000Z80ICM
yes and might as well splurge for the 750:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE750G-Saving-Battery-Back-UPS/dp/B000Z80ICM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377720206&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=apc+battery+backup
I'm currently looking at a couple UPSs, but I'm afraid I'm too newb to understand which one is right for my PC. According to the above components, is this sufficient?
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE750G-Saving-Battery-Back-UPS/dp/B000Z80ICM/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381687264&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=UPS
I've been using one of these for a few years now: http://ark.intel.com/products/53427/Intel-Core-i3-2120T-Processor-3M-Cache-2_60-GHz ... the CPU is 35W TDP and I am usually at <5% load. I haven't measured the whole system but my UPS right now reports that it's only at 7% load while also powering some other small things like my router, so you could estimate the HTPC power from there.
You can get a UPS for about 40 bucks https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8
If you have friends, consider Tabletop Simulator. It pretty much has an infinite amount of replay-ability. I would also vouch for Rocket League.
If you're into mods there's also a lot of games on Steam and in general with lots of mod support. (Minecraft comes to mind)
Also consider getting a better mouse, or microfiber cloths to clean your PC area, or save a little bit more and buy a UPS to protect your investment.
link to goodies
A lot of folks do amazing work on reddit and rarely get the recognition. I applaud you for helping out people through the internet!
Alternatively, you could get a UPS. This saved me multiple times during college when I was working on a paper on my desktop and the power went out
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371879294&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ups+battery+backup
BAM! my dad is a electrical engineer and he buy's these for himself and any client he sets up a computer for
> APC SmartUPS
i know that the regular powerstrip taht we often use as extension cords dont really protect anything at all. But what are all the different types of surge protection devices? and how do they differ from each other?
For example, there's the simple UPS: these basically dont do anything until a spike, brownout, blackout, power surge happens right? and when it does, it basically gives you a minute or two of time to shut the devices down... so basically it kicks in when it's needed correct?
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463908645&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ups
http://www.newegg.com/UPS/SubCategory/ID-72
Then there's the kind (like the one more expensive one i linked in main mpost) that continuously convert the power and regulate it into the safest power for your devices, so it ensures that the power going to your devices are the cleanest as it can be. AND it also does everything the simple UPS does as well in case something was to happen. RIGHT?
Is there a need to protect the system this way as opposed to just using a simple UPS that protects when it is needed? For example, if i pick the UPS only route, what am i not being protect from ? What does the continuous regulation of power protect me from that's lacking in a UPS only device?
It sounds like a power problem. The only thing it sounds like you haven't tried is a UPC. Give something like this a try. If you have power but it is not clean power the UPC will filter it with the battery supplying during awkward lows and absorbing spikes. Just make sure you plug in all of the computer parts to the battery side. A surge protector won't necessarily help you clean up the power the way a UPC will.
You can plug a power strip into a battery-backed UPS port and it will still be battery-backed. Just add up all of the watts you need and buy a UPS that can provide at least that much. It's probably not going to be that much. My router closet (pfsense router, wifi access point, raspberry pi) runs off of a little APC 550VA/330W UPS. Cable modem has its own battery pack because it's a comcast voice modem. I do have a cable amp in the closet, but I don't have it or my main switch connected to backup power because it's okay if those go offline for 10-15 seconds.
I have my FreeNAS and VM servers elsewhere running off a CyberPower 1500VA/900W UPS, and my whole home theater (HTPC, Xbone, Xbox 360, TV, AVR, subwoofer) run off of two older APC 1300VA/780W units that I had kicking around and bought new batteries for. I do have the HTPC and VM server connected to the UPSes for monitoring and self-testing, but I don't have them setup to take action when on battery power because I really only need them to last for 10-15s at a time. Long enough for my standby generator to spin up and switch from mains to generator power in the event of an outage.
Depending on how old your current UPS is, you might want to consider getting a replacement battery. You're really supposed to change them out every 3-4 years, though I made it to year 5 on mine. Which reminds me, I probably need to replace the battery in my 550 soon.
http://www.amazon.com/BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible-Supply/dp/B0019804U8
It's on the compatibility list and it works fine on my DS1511+.
A UPS for a computer maybe?
UPS - Uninterruptible Power Supply. A battery backup that keeps your computer on while the power is out or having power surge/brown out.
Something like this from Amazon.
This is a ups: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0019804U8
Uninterruptible Power Supply. Basically a power strip with a battery. They also have "smart" UPS's that you can have a cable (usually serial or usb) that you can plug into your computer. You can configure software to shutdown your computer safely if you lose power.
Another advantage of UPS's -- clean power. You don't get high's and low's -- it's steady and clean. A neat trick to know if you have clean power or not? Light bulbs. If you go through a lot of light bulbs -- you have shit power and that's, usually, what's killing all your bulbs.
> I was dumbfounded, in my own little world I thought every programmer used a sort of linux OS or at least a Mac.
Nope. I know people who, initially, thought HTML was "programming". I don't mean "CSS+HTML+Javascript" -- I mean literally just HTML.
> I mean every tool I work on runs from a terminal, and if I get stuck or I literally get a crash, exception, or error I copy that shit into google without a thought and find out who had the same error either on SO or in github.
Yeah. I've had people freak out at errors because it had a lot of useless information. I had one user who called me because they got an error and couldn't figure out what was going on. "What does the error say?" -- "I don't know a lot of IT stuff" -- "Try me. Let's go line by line." -- "Device not plugged into power. Please plug into-- ohhhhhhhhh" -- yeah, I've had conversations like that. They literally didn't read the very first line of an error message before asking for help.
Or hey, here's a fun one. "My mouse isn't working." -- "Ok, is it wireless?" -- "Yes" -- "Have you replaced the batteries?" -- "Those need to be replaced?" -- "......yes."
I shit you not. People still don't know wireless stuff needs to be recharged or have batteries replaced.
Probably won't go wrong with the bestseller.
First of all, thank you very much for the help. The TP-LINK is a TL-SF1005D, which is unmanaged, so you are correct, no IP. Not sure how I came up with the IP conflict earlier.
I've updated the future network diagram here (new equipment in orange): http://imgur.com/qoyRQi4
It looks like I will need:
(1) [UBIQUITI USG] (https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Unifi-Security-Gateway-USG/dp/B00LV8YZLK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495983480&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Ubiquiti+USG)
(1) 16 PORT SWITCH
(1) [UPS] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495985064&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=apc+ups)
(3) UAP-AC-LITE
Questions:
Cost effective question:
I just got a ton of the parts for my build and just now realized i may have gotten an incorrect UPS to supply power to it.
The power supply on my build is the Corsair CRM 550. The full list of parts is below.
PC Part picker estimates that my build will use 237 Watts of power.
On top of this build, I also got a surge protector/battery since I want to keep it safe (and my old one is super old).
I got this APC UPS and found that, upon receiving it, it states "550va, 330 watts" on the box.
Will I have to return it and get something bigger if in the case that my build goes over 330 watts of usage?
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790 3.6GHz Quad-Core Processor | $304.93 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | $31.99 @ Directron
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H97M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $83.99 @ Directron
Memory | Kingston HyperX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $165.57 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.78 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 750 Ti 2GB Superclocked Video Card | $148.49 @ OutletPC
Case | Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $128.38 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair RM 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $107.99 @ Directron
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.16 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1139.28
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-11-24 20:25 EST-0500 |
Get a actual surge protector like this one to help protect your computer from fuzzy power transmission as well as voltage spikes and dips.
A UPS like this one will be a good investment to make, protecting your computer even further by allowing time for your computer to shut down safely. only $67+free shipping for both the UPS and surge protector so its definitely worth it considering how much computer hardware costs. not to mention amazon's awesome customer service when you need them.
There are surge protectors with a battery backup built-in for "uninterrupted" use.
These will run a bit more expensive; however, you'll have temporary power to either shut down your computer for example or continue some important work and have the ability to save it really quick.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414510090&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=battery+backup
Personally I'm not a big fan of just power strips because most of them don't do much to protect your PC. So it depends on how good the power is in your home and how much you're willing to spend. If you have good clean power and rarely experience brownouts/blackouts then I would recommend a decent APC surge protector like this one. If however you have had a few brownouts/blackouts and/or would like your PC to maintain power should one occur then I would recommend an APC UPS. How much you spend will be dependent on how long of a battery backup you want. This one would give you a good 5 - 10 minutes (approximately, depending on your PC) of power while this one would give you around 30 minutes.
No such thing as too paranoid when it comes to protecting your baby.....err... computer.
If that's a concern I'd recommend getting a UPS (uninterruptible power supply). The battery inside the UPS can even out voltage to your computer, protect from surges, protect from brown outs, and if the power goes out it will give you time to safely shut down your computer.
I like the APC brand personally. https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500430469&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=apc+battery
I think he was more referring to something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8
Well. Let’s see here. I first purchased this antenna and this mast holder once I made the decision this year to cut the cord. Reading this sub, I quickly realized that I could use this mast amplifier to obtain about 10 more channels and this distribution amplifier to run the signals into 7 rooms of my house.
I configured and tested my setup in the middle of the summer thunderstorm season so I installed this UPS to prevent the brownouts that were occurring all too often during this time. I still had two television sets that were analog/CRT, so I purchased this set top converter which gave me the added bonus of Broadcast DVR when I purchased this flash drive to plug into them.
I then purchased two Roku3 units to supplement my broadcast programming. I also discovered that even when using a dual band router , I was only able to obtain a reliable 18 Mbit wireless stream in my far bedrooms from my Laundry Room equipment location. While this was sufficient for managing two simultaneous streams of HD for now, I was concerned that we would need to have 3 or 4 simultaneous streams or need to upgrade for UltraHD in the next year or so. I then purchased some Cat5e cable and ran 3 separate cables to each of 7 rooms and centralized all the lines into this switch which acted as my Ethernet distribution network.
I had an idle desktop PC with an AMD FX-8350 processor which I upgraded with gigabit LAN, 8GB DDR3 RAM, and five 3TB Disk Drives. I installed Plex Media Server based on recommendations from this sub and I have been torrenting like a madman to fill a little more than half this disk space in the past 4 months. I connected the media server to my Ethernet switch via a Gigabit link and have had no issues with lag even while transcoding on the fly. I plan to purchase some more streaming devices which will probably be Roku3 or Chromecast units depending upon the price and suitability.
My next step is to look at high quality music streaming and how I might integrate some vintage (1980s) audio equipment into this setup.
Pretty old, according to my dad. He said sometime in the 50s? What kind of strip would you recommend. I've been looking up the issue and some people suggested these things.
Should I just RMA the power supply? What kind of risks are these if I keep using my computer?
This one
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE550G/dp/B0019804U8
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE550G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0019804U8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450038335&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ups this thing?
That's why you always want your essentials on one of these bad boys.
Hi, so did you end up getting this UPS? If yes, then how is it working out for you? Thanks!
Can I plug my computer with a 650W PSU into a UPS that has a 350W output?
The UPS is an APC Back-UPS 550 which says it is 550A 350W out. This is my build, which calls for 500W.
My plan was to plug the computer into a surge protector strip, and the strip into the UPS. I want the UPS to cover me so that if there's a power outage, I have enough time to safely shut down the computer. I have no intention of running the computer on battery long term.
Will the UPS let the full 650W through when there aren't any power disruptions, or will it only ever let 350W through?
Is this something that I can do, or should I not do it?
Have a nearby outlet or space for a large UPS? Philips also makes a LED strip which works with that wireless switch. Recharging the UPS would get a little annoying though so an outlet would be best.
My anti-Resetti device. Anyone with a desktop computer should definitely have one of these!
This is what i use normally for our consoles. Its enough to do your console and opto and monitors and pretty cheap. http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Outlet-550VA-120V/dp/B0019804U8
Oh my god get backup power for that :P
(just google UPS)
This. Its 50 bucks and solid.
Source: I own one.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019804U8?pc_redir=1410739809&amp;robot_redir=1
Why do some power strips and UPS's have ethernet jacks?
Looking at this one specifically, but others too
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019804U8/
Posting a follow-up in case anyone comes upon this thread later.
I purchased a UPS (APC BE550G Back-UPS 550VA 8-outlet) and waited until the next time I had this same problem. Woke up this past Monday morning to my usual problem, but at least it gave me the opportunity get everything hooked up to the UPS. So by Tuesday AM I had plugged both the router and the modem into one of the UPS battery backup outlets. Everything's been rock-solid since then, so I'm hopeful that my hunch was right about the problem being related to power outages.
I'll follow up again if I get any additional information. But no more posts in this thread means the UPS solved my problem.
He's an engineer, what type? If your budget is high enough maybe a 3D printer ($500+), otherwise maybe a UPS (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019804U8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
I'm thinking of getting this one, would this work?
UPS, not PSU. You may be able to find one used for cheap. These are good and inexpensive as well.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-UPS-System/dp/B001985SWW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398894685&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ups
The MotoMaster power box's AC inverter is rated at 600W, which is more than enough power to keep the antenna and other device running.
As for how long they will last, the battery says it can do 12v and 28Ah. That means you have a total of 336 watt-hours to work with. Assuming a worst case draw of (7 + 5) = 12 watts, that would suggest you would get about 28 hours of run-time off that unit. Unfortunately nothing is 100% efficient, but you should easily exceed the 4 hour minimum, and will probably get at least 12 hours of run-time.
If you want something like the portable power outlet, you could use an unprintable power supply like this:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-UPS-System/dp/B001985SWW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410816369&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=UPS+power
According to their data, you can get a runtime of 40+ hours for a ~12W load. Just plug it in to charge the battery fully, then unplug, strap to the tripod and plug the two power adapters in.
Ok, to sum things up, it seems like typically
Watts / VA = ~0.6 to 0.7
The linked PC's power supply outputs 150 Watts, resulting in a VA of ~215 to 250. Thus, were I in the US, an APC Back-UPS ES, 6 outlet 350VA, 120V would be sufficient. However, because I'm in Japan, I need to find something that can handle 100V. The APC ES 550 BE550G-JP is probably overkill, but the options seem fairly limited compared to what's available for 120V.
For anyone I suggest getting a battery backup, for situations like this, or even just random power outages.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE350G/dp/B001985SWW
Sure. Depends on how long you want the battery back up up last.
I have this one:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486391778&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=ups
This one gives me about a half hour with tv and console on.
This one gives me enough time to save or get to a save point:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE350G/dp/B001985SWW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486391816&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ups&amp;refinements=p_36%3A1253504011
10 minutes or so. (Had that one in the past.)
Of course if the consoles are in rest mode and tv are off, they last much longer. Sometimes an hour or more.
This is what it is. Might be bigger. Replacement batteries look to be around $20 non-OEM
Brand new drives typically carry a 3 or 5 year warranty, contact the manufacturer's support site and submit an RMA request. Just say it stopped being recognized by the computer, that you tried new SATA cables, and even a USB dock or something. Just don't mention anything about a power surge, those kinds of incidents are not covered by warranties.
Also, invest in an battery backup if the electrical in your home is that spotty.
What do you mean built in? A PS3 doesn't come from the factory with one built in. If you had one, then why would you be afraid to plug it straight into the wall? A UPS functions similar to a surge protector as well, but it's even better.
This is an example of what I use to protect all my AV equipment:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-UPS-System/dp/B001985SWW/ref=zg_bs_764572_4
It's a cheaper unit, so it's probably not the best. I have four of this exact model total. I use one for my desktop, mac, and in my bedroom to run my receiver and television. No problems on any of those units. The description reads "Waveform Type: Stepped approximation to a sinewave" and here is a link to it. I guess I need to shell out for a better unit. I also have a more expensive one I use for my main television, receiver, router, modem, and switch in my living room.
I have an 850w PSU in my computer but according to PC part picker I draw 411 watts of power. What ups wattage minimum should I be looking at? Should I be worrying about sine waves? Because there is a prime day sale on a ups that can do up to 600 watts but supposedly isn't good with sine waves or something? BTW my graphics card is a 1070 sc from EVGA and processor is a 4690k. The former I am overclocking and the latter I am not. This is my PSU. EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 80+ GOLD.
This is the ups I am looking at
APC BR1000G Back-UPS Pro 1000VA 8-outlet Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pPxHxbXS2T1H6
Here's a good sized line interactive:
This is cheaper for some reason
Cheaper still
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1000G/dp/B0038ZTZ3W?th=1&amp;psc=1
This one lasts for about an hour and is ~25 pounds. Would this work?
https://www.amazon.ca/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1000G/dp/B0038ZTZ3W
I have one of these for my computer setup. 1000Va even seems to be a bit overkill, the computer will last longer than any power outage i've experienced. Looks like it would be alot cheaper to get localized UPS instead of a backfeeding setup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/
What you listed all seems to be good. I really wish the TS440 was $300 a year ago :'(
I suggest keeping MC and CS:GO on an SSD because every second the server is loading game data / maps is extremely noticeable. You may want to get a 250gb SSD right away but 120gb might end up having enough space for everything.
From what I understand about Plex, it caches transcoded files on the drive it's installed on (SSD). If the SSD is full, Plex performance could deteriorate.
Incase you aren't familiar with running CS servers you need to setup a fastDL server on some host online. Even using free hosts would be better than having players download map data off your server.
It's just laying on the bottom of the case. Not wrapped with anything. There aren't any moving parts so a caddy isn't as important with SSD's. If I had room to mount it somewhere nicely I would but the TS140 is pretty compact. You can buy a universal 2.5 to 3.5 adapter that will let you mount it in a Lenovo caddy.
Something else to consider getting is a UPS. This is the one I got and I'm happy with it. When the weather gets really shitty the power will sometimes go out for a couple seconds or a couple hours. With a UPS the server / modem / router stay online for about 90 minutes and my server is setup to safely shutdown if the UPS is almost empty.
I am not arguing. Just making some things clear.
Note: When I say, "cheap PSU," I mean PSU like Corsair VS. I am not even considering brands like Circle or any other low quality brand.
Now it's more about choice. But a cheap PSU costs around 3-4.5K And I personally don't think spending 1-2K more on a quality PSU that is way better than the cheap PSU is a bad investment. Another thing, Cheap PSUs don't last very long. It was a different era when our P3-P4 desktops ran for decades with cheap quality PSUs.
Now let us consider two secnarios:
So, how much you saved in the worst case scenario? 10K. But how? Because you spent extra 2-3K on a quality PSU. So, you saved effectively 7-8K.
Now, if you are buying a VC that costs way more than 12K like the 1060 6GB or 1070 or the 1080(TI), it makes sense to spend even extra 5-6K on a quality PSU just to be on the safe side. A cheap PSU, whereas will slowly kill your hardware, especially VC. Now you can replace a VC. But what about HDD/SSD? My cousin brother's friend had his HDD and motherboard gone kaput just in May this year because he cheaped out on a PSU. Now his important office data is lost and cannot be recovered. But this happens rarely. Investing money in a quality PSU is like insuring your computer to be safe.
Now, I agree to your statement that you can get a cheap PSU with a quality UPS. It will work most of the time. But do you know that those cheap UPS are not reliable and are not quality UPS? We cannot see electricity, so it is normal to think that, "hey! My UPS is running fine." But how do you know?
This is a cheap (believe me it is cheap) UPS, but you have to see how much this costs:
https://www.amazon.in/APC-UPS-Model-BR1000G-Battery/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504164088&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=APC
It is overpriced here, I think, by 2K. Now This 8K UPS with 2-3K PSU is not a good combination. A better combination is a 6K PSU with a 3-4K UPS. In this regard, you are spending almost the same amount but a bit less.
8K UPS with 2-3K PSU = 10-11K
6K PSU with a 3-4K UPS = 9-10K
Note that the cost is real. A Seasonic s12II 520W will cost less than 6K. You can argue that a cheap PSU can also cost to something like 1K. But seriously brother, you want to cheap out on that that much?
Real Life example: A person who has never been in an accident will still spend money for the insurance of his bike or car. It is just like that. One cannot be like, "hey! I have neve been in an accident in my entire 30 years of life. Why bother with the insurance?" But you know how important an insurance is?
I know people can do whatever they like. They can power their computer with a potato if they can. But if you ask me, I would never suggest anyone to cheap out on the heart of a system just to save 2-3K.
Now I hope you understand what I am trying to tell you.
Very important they protect your PC from shocks of electricity I would reccomend a Battery Backup + Surge protector, this is the one I currently use Click ME but you can always get a less expensive one.
Id highly recommend a UPS. A quality APC or equivalent UPS is around $100-150 and is WELL worth it. Imagine youre in the middle of a game and the power flashes, with a UPS youre good to go. I modded a fairly large UPS with external batteries and get around 45-60min runtime with both my rig and server up. Oh and back to the original subject, a UPS also acts as a surge protecter and will cut to the battery if you get a surge.
The BR1000G would work well for most people.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1000G-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B0038ZTZ3W
>https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=mp\_s\_a\_1\_5?keywords=ups&amp;qid=1574882279&amp;sr=8-5
As nice as it is to have 2 USB ports, I really need 4. I am glad this is a trend though.
this is just for home use? get a UPS. Anything above 500VA would probably power both all night if the power went out. To be safe, get something beefier.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505343694&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=apc+ups&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-1500VA-Battery-SMC1500/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505343694&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=apc+ups
If you're looking for more plugs I like this model from Belkin. At a minimum/everything else go with these. Both have built in plug covers so little ones as well as animals and dirt will not get into the plugs.
As far as your UPS goes, that model is quite dated. That model and even new models usually do minimal surge protection. I like to have a good quality surge protector before the UPS and and then just put cheap power taps behind it. The UPS you have puts out what's known as a "square" wave while on battery. This can seriously harm audio amplifiers and newer active PFC computer power supplies. Some power supplies will just shutoff instead of accepting the battery power, others may self destruct, or it will just "seem fine" when you're actually shortening the life of the power supply...just depends upon the power supply.
As far as the life of the UPS you have, APC recommends changing batteries every 3-4 years. And the electronics are typically good for 5-8 years from what they say. However the electronics on these things can last a good bit longer. I would definitely see what the run time at your average load is with your current batteries. If it's enough for you, then I'd say stick with it till it dies...maybe put a UPS on both sides of it though in case the electronics in it go. Replacement batteries are pretty cheap if you use a 3rd party battery. If the linked above unit is the white tower model it requires battery kit RBC33.
If you decide a replacement would be better, I suggest this CyberPower model. I think it's the only thing I recommend from CyperPower. A very decent UPS for the price.
Hi r/audiophiles!
Context/Background:
I'm an FPS gamer (and plan to start streaming) and am building a new silent gaming rig! I currently have some terrific headphones and am looking to find some minimal bass 2.0 Speakers for my sit/stand desk. Parts being considered are below. Questions at end. Thank you! Also, regarding "minimal bass", that is an absolute requirement - unless it's easily adjustable. Speakers are intended for casual gameplay/music, whereas headphones are used competitively (e.g. pinpointing reloads/footsteps)
&#x200B;
Currently Using (don't plan to replace):
&#x200B;
Purchasing Plans:
&#x200B;
Questions: <in order of greatest importance to me, if you're time crunched>
Something like this should be adequate for the situation.
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F0sWCb8TXVSB9
I don't get brownouts, just power cuts and maybe a slight surge once or twice a year so I have my all my AVR equipment going through surge/power conditioners.
For my PC though, I have this which produces a sine wave and didn't break the bank.
>Even if UPS technology has improved, at what point would you justify the initial purchase cost plus energy useage to keep it running constantly?
There is very little incurred cost of having a UPS outside of the initial top off charge and then it trickle charges to keep the battery topped off.
That UPS outputs a modified sinewave which has a chance of not playing well with the power supply in OP's computer if it has active PFC (buzzing at best, refusing to work at all on UPS power at worst.)
I'd personally recommend this UPS from CyberPower which outputs an adaptive/simulated sinewave (as close to a pure sinewave as you can digitally get.) It's a few extra bucks but worth it, IMO.
As for runtime, it obviously depends on your load but my setup (4 monitors & a gaming rig) uses ~330 watts under general use (web browsing, video streaming, document editing, etc) and the UPS I linked above will run for 20 minutes before it shuts off. My server uses ~200 watts and will run for 30 minutes.
First thing I found when googling "full wave UPS" was $180. It'll be cheaper than rewiring the apartment and protect you from shit outside your control.
Be careful. The less expensive APC models provide a "stepped approximation to a sinewave". This may cause your particular hardware to reboot or not go on at all during a power failure. See this, for example: http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3514/t/19309661.aspx I have not tried it, but this looks like it could be an alternative if you find you need a pure sine wave: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Compatible-1500VA-Tower/dp/B00429N19W or http://www.jr.com/tripp-lite/pe/TRL_BC600SINE/
I'm not sure about the UPS, but mine does have a USB connection so that it can be managed on a computer (as well as notify the computer that it switched to backup power). I haven't really played with the feature yet, though.
Edit: My UPS in case you are curious: ups
The software for the UPS: ups software
It seems the software can do scheduled shutdowns and restarts, but they are not dependent on whether a site can be reached or not.
One thing you can get is a UPS! Don't run a high end build without one!
$119.95 - CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower
\https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Fantastic price on this Pure Sinewave UPS. Using this on my lab (picked it up full price) will be getting a second for my personal computer.
As far as I'm aware the only things that can cause a hard power cut are overheating, a bad psu, or a power fluctuation from the outlet. You say you're not overheating and the psu is good, could just be a coincidence that you're gaming while the power grid has a hiccup. Hard shutdown followed by immediately coming back on on its own is what I experienced due to grid fluctuations.
I'd definitely recommend everyone get a UPS with active correction and pure sine waveform output to protect the investment you made building your pc even if you're not having issues. The power grid is not at all stable in my area and my house has shitty wiring. I was having parts failures left and right before I figured out the cause and bought a UPS.
Here's the one I bought. It's cheap compared to the hardware that fried before I figured out the problem.
Over the course of 3 years I lost:
I can't say for 100% sure that all of those failures were caused by the power situation but I haven't had a single part failure since getting my UPS in 2013.
I do plan on getting a UPS in the next month or so. I'm looking at the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System...
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
&#x200B;
Yeah but if you hook the PFC series up to an oscilloscope it produces a pretty damn good sinewave.
Refer to this review: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/review/B00429N19W/R3RGWTY0YNR57C/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_rvw_3?ie=UTF8&amp;cursor=3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is the UPS I use for the same issues you're having
There's a really nice deal on Amazon currently so I just picked up the same unit you have. Can't go wrong with pure sine wave and higher VA/watts... Thanks for the recommendation!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19W
Only thing I ended up purchasing was the CyberPower 1500VA UPS for $130 with Amazon's Daily Deal. Really wanted the G900 for $75, but it was sold out by the time I saw it.
Omg...that's a ton of data lost. Were you able to get any of it back from memory of what was lost? I also suggest something like this for extra protection.
> https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C
Thank you so much!
This is what I stuffed in mine.
https://imgur.com/oGAau2H
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP350SLG-Standby-Outlets-Compact/dp/B004OR0V2C/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=small+ups&amp;qid=1556632902&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004OR0V2C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469215698&amp;sr=1-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Uninterruptible+Power+Supply&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41rTojdjzWL&amp;ref=plSrch
> Not sure what an accumulator or torch is in terms of electronics.
He's a gosh-darned brit. A Torch is the British word for flashlight. I dunno what "accumulator" means however. Maybe its a word for UPS??
EDIT: I just want to make sure everyone knows... I'm just saying the above in jest. No hard feelings I hope :-) Its often fun to poke fun at British / American slang and terminology. Them Brits can keep their chips and I'll eat my home fries.
What you're looking for is called a UPS, or Uninterruptible Power Supply. A UPS plugs into a wall outlet and provides power to whatever you connect up to it while also charging an internal battery. When the power goes out, the UPS powers the things hooked up to it with the charge in the battery, giving you time to save things before safely shutting down.
This one is reliable and cheap: https://www.amazon.com/APC-BE650G1-Back-UPS-8-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B005GZRUZW
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE600M1/dp/B005GZRUZW/
Very likely your PSU and motherboard. Does your PC plug into the wall, surge protector, or battery backup?
Edit: If you are not using a battery backup for your PC you should be:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE650G1/dp/B005GZRUZW?ref_=ast_sto_dp
To answer your surge protector wall socket question at minimum a surge protector. Best setup would be a UPS(uninterruptible power supply) not to be confused with the PSU of the computer, this has nothing to do with that. Having a battery backup UPS isn’t a necessity though, but it will allow you time to save work and shut down in the event of a power outage.
Heres one from APC: APC 650VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with Dataline Surge Protection, APC UPS Back-UPS (BE650G1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GZRUZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zDY6Ab8TQ751G
Gotcha, how would this be? It's a little cheaper than others I've seen but it seems like it would work.
The SystemOne without humidifier pulls 60W, with humidifier it's 80W (well 75 actually, I think). If I understand the math right, a fully charged desktop UPS of, say, 650VA (like this one) would last ~6 hours without humidifier attached, ~5 with. The power factor of APC UPSs seems to be about 60%, so take your UPS's VA capacity, take 60% of that, then divide by either 60 or 75 depending on whether you plan on using the humidifier or not.
Probably the CPAP doesn't always draw the full 60W/75W, so it may last longer.
Also, this is assuming you don't have anything else plugged into the UPS, or haven't since the power went out.
This is just a big ol' semi-naive SWAG, so YMMV, LTBW, IANAEE.
The extra VRAM is something that you will appreciate as games use more and more of it with every new release.
The Corsair is a better option.
Also look into a good surge protector, or even a UPS if you can afford one. They are worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Display-Protection-SMART1500LCDT/dp/B009TZTGWK/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1473271273&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=UPS
This is a really good 900W Tripp-Lite UPS for computer towers
Nice build. I'd recommend an UPS or at least a better surge protector.
Always have your expensive electronics on a backup power supply for safety.
Like this
Anyone serious about their PC should have a real UPS. Peopel will spoend thousands on a gaming rid and forget this important step.
Had a friend with a PC that would crash and crash all the time. Turns out his house wiring was flaky he bought a UPS and as soon as he hooked up the UPS it started alerting to bad line voltage conditions. Had an electrician come out and take a look and there was some corroded wiring in the wall.
You need so size it right for your system, but a decent one is still under $150.
https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Display-Protection-SMART1500LCDT/dp/B009TZTGWK
https://smile.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Battery-Outlets-ECO850LCD/dp/B00NWRMQCS
The last cyberpower I had used a shitty non standard battery and stopped working like a year later on my home PC. I wouldn't recommend them. I ended up purchasing this TrippLite ups which can also handle 500va more than the one you had linked.
I personally used Tripplite. Mainly because it was a good price point buying it from Costco. Seemed fairly solid compared to some others I've tried in the past. The Tripplite from Cosotco was a Smart1000LCD. Bought a second Tripplite from Amazon a Smart1500LCDT.
This thread also made me realize I've had these guys far longer than some of the other brands I've used in the past
I think one of them is going bad as it can't handle a brownout under any load. I can't remember if it's the older of the two or newer of the two. The older one is probably near 4 years old. Checking the warranty, the newer is just under 3 years old (1 week left on the 3 year warranty)
Some of the other brands I've tried before were cyberpower, APC and some other cheap brands. They didn't last me over a year. To be fair though, they were the cheap under $60 models, and likely couldn't handle the load from a 750w psu w/ peripherals. So you do get what you pay for.
A UPS? Absolutely. I moved to an area with a lot of thunderstorms where we'd get occasional short outages or brown outs.
Picked up this model and have been happy with it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TZTGWK
Have my PC, primary monitor, router and modem plugged into it so I don't even lose internet if there's a hiccup in the power.
Here what I got.
CyberPower BRG1500AVRLCD UPS 1500VA/900W 12 Outlets AVR LCD USB Ports Mini Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LEFYISA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_D95MxbTMS7760
$155
APC Back-UPS Connect BGE90M,120V, Network Backup with USB Charging ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTQYUA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5-5MxbJSEV0BD
$25
For the first one I went with the highest VA to have peace of mind with whatever I wanted to plug in and also because of the outlets capacity.
The small one is for connecting modem/routers and it was cheap at the time for just one of the sensors and when I charge the controllers. I've had equipment damaged before so I out these everywhere I have expensive stuff.
I use this one and it works well https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-BGE90M-Charging/dp/B00NTQYUA8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Can't speak for the NiMH model.
If you're just looking to put your modem and router on the UPS, get one designed for it. The main benefit is that since it is designed for it, it is much more efficient putting out small amounts of power. Mine lasts about 2-3x as long as another "normal" UPS with a larger battery putting out the same amount of power.
The APC BGE90M is an example, and it only costs $30.39 on Amazon right now. I've had the older one for a few years, and it'll power my modem, router (with a built in hard drive, so it sucks more power than some), and 5 port switch for about 2.5-3 hours. And that's with the original 2 year old battery. If want more run time you can hook up other batteries, but please research before doing that, or ask me, I've done it before and it's pretty awesome.
EDIT:
Link to the product on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTQYUA8/
It bothered me that Amazon didn't have the max power, so I looked it up on APC's website and its 75W/125VA. Here is a link to the battery time graph: http://www.apc.com/products/runtimegraph/runtime_graph.cfm?base_sku=BGE90M&chartSize=large
I think you're going to want to look for something that doesn't require a consistent internet connection, so FireTV and the like is probably out. Raspberry PI is not a bad choice but, you might want something a little bit simpler and more straightforward.
You want it to boot straight to Kodi and I'm guessing we won't really have a tremendous amount of use for android apps (because of lack of internet). So, I would recommend something linux based and, of course we're probably going to need something that can easily accept a USB connected hard drive. I imagine as a hospital you probably have a ton of thumbdrives that vendors have given you somewhere to act as the hard drive, if not, you should be able to get a 64GB one off amazon for under $20, type mostly doesn't matter.
For the power issue, you might want to add a small UPS system, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTQYUA8 it should power most small devices for a good long while (rated for 4.5 hours, for just a media player, it should last considerably longer). I'm guessing you might have a standard power outlet available for charging in the ambulance? The one I linked is around $40 now but, it frequently goes on sale for $20.
For the actual box, I would recommend one of these, these all run linux, boot straight to kodi and should accept a USB hard drive (update the firmware when you get them, pivos devices have a linux and an android version available, i would recommend linux):
After more research, this is what I've come up with.
If the base station unit does not store info to upload later, then keeping the base station powered but not your WIFI will not help with data retention, but it would give you visibility into the outside weather.
With this in mind, I am going to get a UPS - One of these: http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-BGE90M-Charging/dp/B00NTQYUA8/ref=sr_1_1?tag=slickdeals&amp;ascsubtag=d33a23d0a4c711e5a251ee6214610d160000&amp;s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449285342&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=B00NTQYUA8
This is a cheaper one I found, and sometimes I've seen it on sale for 19.99
This device would let you plug in your base station and your WIFI - in the event of a power outage, the base station and WIFI router / cable model would stay powered. You would get weather data on the base station, while keeping internet working as well.
Internet, depending on what kind you have, can stay working in a power outage, much like phones (landlines that is) work without power.
This is the solution I think I am going to use instead of trying to build a battery back. I would have liked to have the base station mobile, to bring it around with me, but I've found the Wunderstation App on iTunes to be very helpful and even shows indoor temp. Only for Ipad though, not Android.
You could keep it simple with a DC power supply plugged into a cheap UPS:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-BGE90M-Charging/dp/B00NTQYUA8 ($25)
That is basically what a UPS is for...
How about one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-BGE90M-Charging/dp/B00NTQYUA8
You can also look at BGE50ML on the same page.
It should get you 8+ hours for battery backup.
Ok, a 365 watt PSU is too little, so you'll need a new one (400+ Watts) , but make sure a modern psu fits with the motherboard, if not ,buy a new one that's compatible with the processor (Most 4th / 5th gen i7s & i5s have the same socket, please tell me the exact name of the cpu e.g. I7-4790 so i can know what generation it is). If this confuses you, just go to a local pc shop and ask for a motherboard there.
I dont know particularly much about if mac cpu's are different or not but someone might
And HELL YESS it will be able to play modern games ultra-high 60 fps and probably still be great for 5 years and ok for the next 10. I salvaged a bad PC and re-used the CPU, RAM and HDD. It now has a 1060 and I7-4790 and high settings give me a consistent 60fps and ultra gives around 45fps(on the best games) But most games give me ultra 60 FPS.
The HP case seems fine but i'm not sure about the motherboard fitting a modern cpu. My only problem is if you're standing it landscape as PCs are best upright.
Suggested PSU
well my overall budget is 60000, without a monitor. out of which
Rs. 25000- Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 Ti Windforce OC 6GB GDDR6 192 Bit Gaming Graphics Card (GV-N166TWF2OC-6GD)
Rs. 5880- CORSAIR CMK8GX4M1D3000C16 Desktop Ram Vengeance Lpx Series 8GB (8GBx1) DDR4 3000MHz
Rs. 6550- Msi B360M Pro-VDH Motherboard (Intel Socket 1151/9th And 8th Generation Core Series CPU/Max 64GB DDR4 2666MHz Memory)
Rs. 12599- 9th Gen Intel® Core™ i5-9400F Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 4.1GHz Without Processor Graphics LGA 1151 (Intel® 300 Series Chipset) 65W BX80684I59400F
Rs. 3100- CRUCIAL MX500 Series 250GB Internal SSD
Rs. 2600- Corsair VS450 450-Watt Power Supply
Rs. 2900 - Western Digital 1TB Blue
&#x200B;
this is my basic layout.
This is the link:
Corsair CP-9020049-UK VS Series ATX/EPS 80 PLUS Power Supply Unit, 450 W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00X8QBT6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n7ZaAbB2JK1K5
Also, would I be able to put something better in? Or which 750ti would you recommend? Thanks mate!
I searched a bit for pre-built gaming pc's available in the UK, and you mostly get a bad value for that.
An example (and one I saw a lot): Geforce GTX 750Ti graphics. It can run GTA V, but the 380 gets a much better result. Most of the time you also get an AMD processor (not one from Intel), which is not fast for todays standards. Their cores cant do a lot in a work cycle compared to Intel's offerings.
The best value one I found: This pre-built gaming pc from Scan Computers. Would cost £579.49 to buy there.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | £97.26 @ CCL Computers
Motherboard | Asus H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £49.99 @ Novatech
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | £33.14 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £39.95 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB Superclocked Video Card | £119.99 @ Amazon UK
Case | Corsair 100R ATX Mid Tower Case | £39.95 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | Corsair VS 450W ATX Power Supply | £33.14 @ Amazon UK
Optical Drive | Samsung SH-224FB/RSMS DVD/CD Writer | £15.95 @ Amazon UK
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM (64-bit) | £71.81 @ More Computers
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £501.18
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 20:13 BST+0100 |
Performance of the 950 is in the benchmark I listed above. TBH I didn't know that GTA V is so optimised for nVidia GPU's.
Essentially, you pay them £80 to let them assemble that thing and to get a 2-year warranty. If you register the products you bought at the manufacturer's websites, you get that for free. Mostly even longer lasting warranties.
Building a PC yourself is not hard. Search some Youtube videos on how to build a PC and you'll realise that it is very easy.
And yes, this the /r/buildapc side of me poking through. You gotta live with that. :P
---
If you require an OS in the budget, this is what I would build then.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £170.44 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | Asus H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £49.99 @ Novatech
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | £27.99 @ Ebuyer
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £46.79 @ Novatech
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £39.95 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB Superclocked Video Card | £119.99 @ Amazon UK
Case | Deepcool TESSERACT BF ATX Mid Tower Case | £24.99 @ Ebuyer
Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | £44.50 @ Amazon UK
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 OEM (64-bit) | £68.00 @ Amazon UK
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £592.64
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-13 20:54 BST+0100 |
Compared to the Scan Computers pre-built you get an i5 which will improve multitasking a lot (true 4 cores as opposed to the hyperthreaded dual-core i3), faster RAM which brings a measureable boost in performance, an SSD which will greatly improve daily usage and snappyness of the system, and a higher quality PSU (the Corsair VS series is meant for office and home systems, they even write it on their webpage). The key for Windows 8.1 is also accepted for a Windows 10 installation, so just download the Win10 installation files and put them on a USB stick. For most people optical drives are not needed nowadays.
Wow, this got very long lol
Getting a good quality power supply is important. Personally I've yet to have a power supply die and take out my hardware with it, but there is always that potential.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-100-W1-0430-K3-Budget-Power-Supply/dp/B01M9EX1AD/ref=sr_1_196?s=computers&amp;rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487871826&amp;sr=1-196&amp;keywords=atx+power+supply
Looks like the one he suggested is available on amazon.
I'm also going to link the Corsair VS450 because someone will undoubtedly chime in if its good or bad ;)
Switch to an i5-7400 or go to a Ryzen build.
You could get a different motherboard, I know for a fact there are cheaper B250 boards.
There are more cheaper models of the 580 but I'm assuming you like this one so dw
https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-Bronze-Power-Supply-Unit/dp/B01H3UA7XE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493632089&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=evga%2B500b&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CP-9020097-UK-VS550-Power-Supply/dp/B00X8QBT6M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493632089&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=evga%2B500b&amp;th=1
Could try those PSUs
Look at this subreddit for some deals
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsalesuk/new/
Oh... Thanks for pointing it out. And I was looking for 3 traditional display ports. :D Thanks again. I have just placed an order for processor, mobo and ram.
I have one more question about psu. I swear this is the last one.. hopefully.
There are 2 psu available on Amazon from Corsair. Corsair VS450 450-Watt @2600 rs and Corsair CX450 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply @3700 rs. The VS series has amazing ratings and it is 1100 rs cheaper on Amazon. Is there any huge difference between both of these in terms of performance and durability?
BTW I have noticed that many US gaming communities say that Corsair VS and Corsair CX is low quality and they tell people to avoid it but I have seen people here only go after Corsair. How is Antec VP550P Plus 550 Watt 80 Plus Non-Modular Gaming Power Supply compared to Corsair VS450 or Corsair CX450... in terms of performance, warranty and support.
I was thinking of getting this power supply: https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-VS450-450-Watt-Power-Supply/dp/B00X8QBT6M and this UPS : https://mdcomputers.in/numeric-600va-digital-ex.html
I am on a tight budget and want to minimize the price. i am really confused
Thanks so much I have one in my basket now, do you know which psu I should get?
Is this what I'm looking for?
Corsair CP-9020049-UK VS Series ATX/EPS 80 PLUS Power Supply Unit, 450 W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00X8QBT6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vY2GzbTTT52YX
And then there's this one which is almost half the price. . .
Silence 500W ATX PC Power Supply PSU With 12CM Silent Fan And SATA / 24 PIN / 4 PIN / MOLEX https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00P2GE38C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BZ2Gzb2STNRB6
Or this looks like a cheapest well reviewed option. . .
ACE 400W PSU with 12cm Fan and SATA 24-Pin Model - Grey https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00647L7H8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l02GzbBB6BC3Y
I would advice you should buy a ryzen instead of upgrading to a already dead platform. A ryzen 1200+b350+8gb ddr4 ram will be ideal choice. I would have waited till zen+ (March-April) next year, but since your pc is dying, it's upto you whether you can hold on.Though 8350 with 1050ti will not be a bottleneck,but may affect in your future gpu purchase. I just checked the total price came less than 300 euros. You can wait till Christmas or buy right away since there are great discounts even now. If you want more cpu performance I would advice you go with r5 1400 or r5 1600, still total price is less than 400 euros.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00J8E90I2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509699083&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Ram&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41ZAB5tT6iL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0741DN383/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509699537&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ryzen+1200
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06WW9S5BY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509699567&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=b350+motherboard&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51HfbIq-28L&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0088PUEPK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509699605&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=1+tb+hardrive&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51DmuZNyIGL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00X8QBT6M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509699642&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=450+watt+psu&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41EN4y7sk8L&amp;ref=plSrch
Is this good enough? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00X8QBT6M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE
This is the absolute cheapest build that can run games at decent settings at 900p/1080p.I wouldn't recommend going any lower than these specs.
Processor : i3 4160 / i3 4150
Motherboard : (Any lga 1150 mobo will do) [Asus h81m cs]
(https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00QIUUA56/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1TLFAZ1J3MY8O)
Ram : (Any 8 GB DDR 3) [Crucial 8gb]
(https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00AZGZFGS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1AER2OG6BI33A)
PSU : [Corsair VS450]
(https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00X8QBT6M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=AWO781LMQ8MJ4) (450 watts atleast , though you may want to upgrade. Buy only from trusted vendors like corsair even though there are cheaper options because they might not be the safest.)
Graphics Card : RX 460 or GTX 1050 (I wouldn't recommend 750 Ti or even anything lower than these two.)
HDD : (Depends on your usage) [WD Blue 1 TB]
(https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A39AYQPGRJWC45)
Totally offtopic of home theater -- but, how did you figure out what size APC to use to support your NAS, switch, and the like?
Currently have a NAS / mini-itx server / networking equipment but have no idea how to choose which one would be best. I see a lot of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2VUE3DDHWTH4Y&amp;colid=12Z7TORHW0YTP&amp;psc=1
go on sale from time to time but don't know how to figure out if it's enough.
Also I love the setup of the wiring, so clean.
Then invest in a UPS https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU
That's terrible. Get a small ups, totally worth it for the peace of mind. If you have a wineador then you likely have a large collection. I have this one (425va version)- https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU. Idk how long it would run on a total power outage but it has been fine for riding out brown outs.
\>2019
\>not using a small UPS on your PC
what are you even doing
Edit: I use this one except it's a 650, not a 600 like in the link. Works great, and I use the USB to power my SNES classic.
Just any level of APC will help. This is a small one, so you won't get any long backup power out of it, but it will rectify the output.
APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with USB Charger, 600VA, APC Back-UPS (BE600M1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1h1nDb9EWA2PV
whats the advantage of the USB port and what does it do?
If this APC UPS is typical, the USB port is for charging your cell phone (or whatever).
I've tried replacing the hdmi cable. I also had vizio replace the motherboard because they and I thought it was the issue, not the apple tv. I don't know about the ac source. I have it plugged into this ups.
Ok, I'm going to take a whack at this. Here is my full build list with everything I'll need.
CPU ($190-not sure if mobo is compatible, seems like AMD has different socket?): AMD Ryzen 5 1500x
RAM ($270): - 2x of Crucial 16GB DDR3 ECC
MOBO ($200 - includes 10 SATA 6.0GBps ports: bypass needing HBA): ASRock X370 Taichi AM4 AMD
PSU ($110) - EVGA 650W Gold
Case ($220- fit's 10x 3.5" drives and ATX to match mobo) - Lian Li PC-A76X Full Tower Desktop Case
Drives (10x 8TB reds @ $200 + 120GB SSD for OS)
Server NIC ($160) Dell x520 Intel 10GbE..says it only works on dell?
Switch ($750) NeatGear 8-port 10GbE switch
UPS ($60) APC UPS
TOTAL PRICE: $3940 with a 10Gbe switch...thinking it's worth just biting the bullet and going 10GbE if I'm already doing all this.
Couple more questions.
Red 8TB's are out of stock so I'm considering going with 12x 6 TB reds instead. This is better since I'll lose 12TB to the Raid z2 instead of the 16TB I'd lose with 8TB disks yeah? They're the same price per TB. I guess I'd just need to find a bigger case and a MOBO with 12x Sata or maybe I need to get a LCI HBA instead and a cheaper mobo with ECC. Preference? Seems nice to do it all out of mobo and let freeNas take care of the raid.
Looks like a fiber NIC is similar in price to a 10GbE switch, so maybe it makes sense to just get 10GbE? If I got a 24ch gigabit with 2 fiber for cheap, can I run fiber to 1 PC and have 10GbE speeds and run the rest of clients at 1GbE no problem? I'm wondering if the 2 fibers on the switch are input only, or if they can go either direction. It would be really great to save the money and get a switch for around $200, because only one client really needs 10GbE speeds anyways right now.
I see that on the X520 NIC adapter that there are 10GbE ports. Does this mean I can daisy chain to other clients? Or is it recommended to go direct from switch to each client?
This server will be plugged into a shared workroom. I'm a bit worried it's possible for it to somehow get unplugged...my guess is that this would be catastrophic. Are there "security boxes" that the server can be locked into so its impossible to unplug?
/r/BuildAPCSales
Watch that forum for UPS’s and see what the hive mind has to say about them. Be aware that since they are battery operated, UPS has to be replaced every few years depending on battery health.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540473562&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=ups&amp;psc=1
this is one i have for a 7700k and 1080ti set up.
Cheaper, more outlets, works fine.
The TrippLite one I'd use if I was plugging it into a $50,000 piece of sensitive electrical equipment in a controlled lab or something. But for everyday use, a nice power strip surge protector works great.
If I was going to spend close to $50 on a power solution, I'd just get a battery backup anyways.
i recently bought one myself for this exact reason.. i had 2 power outages and couldnt breathe... ive had this for 3 weeks now, and no issues, however i also havent lost power since..
https://www.amazon.ca/APC-BE600M1-Back-Uninterrupted-Electronics-Computers/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ups+600w&amp;qid=1559305463&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
easy to setup, and plugs into a USB if you need to change settings or what have you
It won't affect the PSU, but will most definitely affect files. I'd suggest getting a ups, something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NJmIzbXPKW0BV
Something like this for the POE Injector should work.
Then something comparable to this would work for the battery backup. The higher the VA the longer the runtime.
APC and Cyberpower are decent consumer brands and you can get units that have been refurbished with new batteries for a bit cheaper than new. Amazon has a better explanation of what this 600VA battery backup can do per wattage: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU
So if a 600VA unit can power up to 10W for about 4.3 hours then if your system can take up to 500W at max load it should last up to 5.16 minutes, though I'm not sure of the exact conversion rate and if other efficiency factors may be involved (IE, it may get less efficient nearer to its capacity). At that small amount of minutes you definitely want a UPS that supports USB connectivity to the computer to allow it to send a shutdown signal, which I believe this one does as part of the "PowerChute" software.
I recommend anything by APC. Good, solid kit. I have a ~$200 one under my desk now (large rig to keep powered up) and it's saved my ass so many times. Power goes down, everyone else groans, I chuckle.
They do smaller, cheaper ones. I've never used this one, but it looks like what you're after:
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=sr_1_5/144-0402611-0262120?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501704983&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=apc+ups
Same range as mine, just smaller.
I don't know how much power you need, but I have this one and it is fairly small for a UPS. I haven't had any problems with it.
https://www.apc.com/us/en/faqs/FA159690/
I have had good luck with APC
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE600M1/dp/B01FWAZEIU?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_764572_0&amp;pf_rd_p=89dfa9d0-02d8-5522-9bc4-9bd0165bb96e&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=764572&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=JXP5G5AFGHHMDDYVQHFT&amp;pf_rd_r=JXP5G5AFGHHMDDYVQHFT&amp;pf_rd_p=89dfa9d0-02d8-5522-9bc4-9bd0165bb96e
Cyberpower
but I don't know if they have the auto shutdown you need.Edit: cyberpower does too:
https://www.cyberpowersystems.com/product/software/power-panel-personal/powerpanel-for-mac/
Oh didnt know that. Is this good enough?
Something similar to this, to regulate and control the power flowing to your computer.
Excellent suggestion, thank you!
Do you think an APC 600VA UPS would be good for 2 gaming PCs plus monitors, or should we go for something bigger like a 1000VA?
EDIT - thinking we'll just go with the 1500VA/900W unit to be safe.
EDIT 2 - lots of bad reviews citing problems with those APCs so now I'm looking at other options.
I am a fan of this Asus Router with this APC backup power supply.
If you have an android phone check out how crowded your Wifi is with Wifi Analyzer. Sorry IOS does not have any Wifi Analyzer apps.
Edit: Canadian deals :)
Been using this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWAZEIU - an APC BE600M1 on my Tevo Tarantula since June and it has saved many prints from power surges and glitches.
Shopping list:
Le Pi:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/products/raspberry-pi-3-model-b/
60 Watt USB Hub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZZD870/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
1 Compac: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016CWBYJK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(Expensive from that seller, i'd suggest elsewhere)
Smaller USB hub for Pi Power: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V33RCTU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
UPS: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWAZEIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
El-Cheapo switcho: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JKMYVU4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Dat Pi stack (4 layer): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LVUVVOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
The 2Pac's were purchased direct from the guy for around $30 a pop. x5
&#x200B;
|Item|Detail|Amount Paid (Pre Tax)|
|:-|:-|:-|
|Laptop|Inspiron 13 7000; [email protected], 16GB 2400MHz RAM, 512 GB M.2 PCI-E NVMe SSD|$940.79|
|Monitors|2 of Samsung IT LC27F398FWNXZA Samsung C27F398 27-Inch Curved Monitor (Super Slim Design)|$435.98|
|Keyboard|Corsair CH-9101021-NA Gaming Mechanical Keyboard, Backlit LED|$103.99|
|Mouse|VicTsing Wireless Gaming Mouse with Unique Silent Click, Breathing Backlit, 2 Programmable Side Buttons, 2400 DPI, Ergonomic Grips, 7-Button Design- Red|$19.99|
|Dock|Dell USB 3.0 Ultra HD/4K Triple Display Docking Station (D3100)|$108|
|Laptop Stand|Vertical Laptop Stand [Adjustable Size], OMOTON Desktop Aluminum MacBook Stand with Adjustable Dock Size, Fits All MacBook, Surface, Chromebook and Gaming Laptops (up to 17.3 inch), Silver|$25.99|
|UPS|APC UPS 600VA Battery Backup & Surge Protector with USB Charging Port, APC UPS BackUPS (BE600M1)|$54.99|
|Headphones|COWIN E7 Active Noise Cancelling Headphones Bluetooth Headphones with Mic Deep Bass Wireless Headphones Over Ear, Comfortable Protein Earpads, 30H Playtime for Travel Work TV PC Cellphone - Black|$62.99|
|Back LED|Megulla Color Bias Lighting for TV and Monitor - Small (39inch), RF Remote and Dimmer -USB LED Backlight RGB Adhesive Strips for HDTV, Desktop Monitors and More -2Pack|$19.99|
|Webcam|Logitech C270 Widescreen HD Webcam and 3 MP designed for HD Video Calling and Recording|$21.99|
|Wireless Phone Charger|Seneo Wireless Charger, Qi Certified Wireless Charging Stand Compatible iPhone Xs MAX/XR/XS/X/8/8 Plus, 10W Galaxy Note 9/S9/S9 Plus/Note 8/S8, 5W All Qi-Enabled Phones(No AC Adapter)|$19.99|
|Flag|Official United States Flag, Flown over U.S. Capitol Building in 2008 (Thanks, Chuck Schumer!)|$0.00|
|Backup Harddrive|WD 2TB Black My Passport Portable External Hard Drive - USB 3.0 - WDBS4B0020BBK-WESN|$79.99|
|Total||$1,894.68|
&#x200B;
Getting a UPS would be a good idea, they are power conditioning devices which use their inbuilt battery to remove abnormalities in the power supply.
They also supply 30-90 mins (depending on model) of battery power in case of an outage, so you can safely play during a thunderstorm or windy conditions.
I've got my cable modem, wifi router, NAS, and a 4 port switch along with all my "entertainment" stuff (TV, TiVo, Roku, UHD BluRay player) on this, but this is all I need if I just wanted to protect the "entertainment" stuff. You can go even smaller if it's just a few things. You won't get a long run time, but it's mostly to avoid surges, brownouts, and rapid powercycles.
During the summer my area gets the occasional short blackout. Is this a good UPS to power my PC and monitor? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FWAZEIU
You can get an inexpensive Battery backup to plug the printer into if your home has power fluctuations that could cause the print to stop. I run an 400VA APC UPS like the one at the link below on my printers.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE425M/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=apc+ups+425&amp;qid=1570291301&amp;sprefix=apc+ups+425&amp;sr=8-3
Other than that, restart the print or measure the print and re-slice the portion that didn’t print and break out the glue.
Woah,
Looks like there are a lot more options these days than when I was gigging. And 'portable' no longer means ~25lbs.
I have 2 synology connected to this UPS. One synology has an expansion unit. It works great and supports auto shutdown. APC 1500VA Compact UPS Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY6FXMM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with AVR, 1500VA, APC Back-UPS Pro (BX1500M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VY6FXMM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_W3oEDbX9D1X17
6 hours is a stretch. But some options I like, unless you're okay with a 1U or 2U rack mounted one (can actually be cheaper).
Use this bos APC UPS 1500VA 900Watt Battery Backup & Surge Protector, APC UPS BackUPS Pro (BX1500M) price only 154 usd
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06VY6FXMM
It sounds like you already have better hardware than what you're picking up for $300. For $150 you can get a solid UPS that won't have a cheap knockoff battery. I don't think that the deal is worth it if you already have a high end desktop that could run circles around the hardware you'd be getting, and you already have a secondary machine you can use as a file server. Unless your secondary machine is such poor quality that it would be worse than the best of this hardware.
I lost some fish last year too and I was so sad, but you can get a UPS - and if you have fish you don't even need to run it all the time because water is such a good insulator, I actually got it more for my hermit crabs cause they're toast within hours if the power goes out.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06VY6FXMM/ref=asc_df_B06VY6FXMM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198138936631&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7807973172873347216&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9033027&hvtargid=pla-354035472172&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BX1500M/dp/B06VY6FXMM
This should be able to run your computer and modem for a decent amount of time, probably 10 minutes give or take
I’m not sure how you got into safe mode in the first place... did you have a power surge/outage? And so it had to rebuild the database and whatnot? Repair the external HD if you have one?
I had a lot of surges at my house, and it was constantly shutting down my PS4 which was in rest mode, and I’d always get the error message and have to rebuild (and my 8TB external which I was petrified of losing everything on it due to the dozens of times it had happened). So I just bought this APC 1500VA Surge Protector/Battery Backup for $150.
It basically has 10 total inputs for your devices — 5 of them are just a regular surge protector and 5 of them will go to battery backup immediately when there’s any power surge or outage. They’ll continue to run on the battery for as long as it has a charge (the amount of time varies based on how many devices are running and what kind of power output they demand). It has a counter on the front also to let you know how many times it’s saved your ass by keeping the internet modem/router, TV, PS4/XBOX, etc. running uninterrupted... preventing any more improper shutdowns of the PS4 and external HD. If this is something that’s been happening to you regularly, you should definitely consider one. The one I got is probably overkill... I wasn’t expecting it to be so big or heavy. If you’re just looking to protect those really instant power surges, then you don’t need one with a huge battery. But in the event of an outage, it’s nice to know that I can always power several devices for a little while.
If I had the money, I'd buy a backup power supply. Only downside, the batteries gotta be replaced every few years and the beeping to let you know the power is out is super annoying.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1000G-Back-UPS-Uninterruptible-Supply/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1375847140&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=apc+ups
I own the 1500va version of this
But then, I have much more equipment hooked to it.
Mmmk, I'll just let it tell me when it needs replacing. I'm fairly certain it will, it's a nicer/newer model.
APC makes some inexpensive UPS units. I wouldn't trust them for anything mission critical, but they should be good enough. http://smile.amazon.com/APC-BR1000G-Back-UPS-Uninterruptible-Supply/dp/B0038ZTZ3W
Using this - https://www.amazon.in/APC-UPS-Model-BR1000G-Battery/dp/B0038ZTZ3W/ref=sr_1_2?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1527507365&sr=1-2&keywords=APC+1000
It's for both my Gaming PC and PS4 pro + 4k monitor if that counts.
Battery dies every 6 months but has a warranty of 1 year. UPS itself is rock-solid and has taken me through many thunderstorms and power surges.
The only problem I have is that the Fan is a bit too loud, but if you have a Ceiling Fan on it won't bother you much. Plus the fan tends to run a long, long time after a power cut when the battery is charging.
I'm so sorry for your loss.
I have this UPS behind my Ender 3 and CR-10S. It will run one of those about 45 min to an hour, possibly longer if I turn the bed temp down.
I keep meaning to add a script in Cura to turn down the bed after the 10th layer or so. I get great adhesion and shouldn't be wasting energy anyway.
Apc uninterruptible power supply
APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8P1JAbDF0G8T6
That’ll fix your problem
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU?psc=1&amp;SubscriptionId=AKIAINYWQL7SPW7D7JCA&amp;tag=aboutcom02lifewire-20&amp;linkCode=sp1&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B003Y24DEU
APC makes by far the best UPS’s. This is what I have: APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a3ZjDb2NA0J1V
Ok this may not be cheap, but this bad boy saved my tech more times than I can count when I lived in a poorly wired apartment complex.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Back-BR1500G-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474624828&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=apc+1500
Those all in one type units that look like a fat power strip are crap. It's just their attempt to milk their good name to pick up low hanging fruit. Needless to say, quality isn't the best, I think it's made in India. I've got an BR1500G (http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU). It's great, works as it should, and it's a reputable company. Just don't buy their rack mount stuff unless you absolutely have to. It's aimed at the enterprise market which mean its just $$$$ more expensive than it should be.
Get one, never look back. I had a power outage take out 2 of my monitors. Should have bought one of these a long time ago. You can even configure it (via a USB connection and some software) to auto shut down the PC for longer power outages so it doesn't drain the battery.
If you really need longer power duration throw one of these in there as well.
EDIT: Do some research because there can be issues with compatibility depending on if the device needs pure sine waveform or can used stepped approximation.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1509824887&amp;sr=1-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=ups+battery+backup+%26+surge+protector+220v
Oh, I have a way over-sized one for what I need. Its an APC 1500 - Basically an older model of this one. Will run my wineador for hours ;)
I have two of these:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-BACK-UPS-10-Outlet-1500VA/dp/B003Y24DEU
One of them is hooked up to my PC setup, which includes gaming desktop, 2 monitors, modem and router. I can get about 20 -40 minutes of sue depending on what I am doing.
I recently got a second one, soon after I got my PS4, that is hooked up to my TV area. This area has my 48" Samsung smart TV and some gaming consoles. I can get like 40-60 minutes of use with a console and TV on.
I don't get many power outages where I live, but one stormy night caused my PC to BSOD as soon as Windows tried to boot. Luckily it was just something needed for boot that got messed up, as the Windows install/recovery disk was able to fix the issue, but it concerned me enough to get something to prevent it from happening again.
While this model might be overkill for my needs, I got it because its the same one my work uses for most of our PC's, and they work great for our somewhat consistent power issues inside the building.
My system contains 21 3.5" HDD, 2 2.5" SSD, 6700K, and 13 fans. It draws under 250 watts with all the drives spinning. Looking at it now with half of the drives spinning and the processor basically idle, it's 129 watts.
I have the APC BR1500G and while it's overkill, I get 20 minutes of runtime at load, 45 minutes at idle.
Yeah, EVGA's warranty process is what keeps me buying their stuff.
Would something like this do the trick? Its on sale at my local Costco.
My buddy (who's more techy than me and recommended it to me) and I both use this one. Sorry if you've gotten multiple replies, automoderator kept remvong my links because they contained referral codes (which I didn't realize) and it took me a couple tries to fix it.
Oh... you mean like this:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-BACK-UPS-10-Outlet-1500VA/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1SGM0W53MSMS2FYTVZQ7
Like you said these things are only for an emergency when power goes out at my house. I would like to keep my phone and tablet with power as long as possible. I would be using these things maybe 5 times a year maybe 1 maybe none. This gives me the option of using batteries I already have/need. Instead of buying a $50 backup for my phone/tablet.Although I did see a decent one for $20 on amazon I might go for.
I also have one of these which will probably keep it charged for a long time. I might be able to just get more batteries for it.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_2
I bought this one about a year ago. I've got everything hooked up to it. My ps4, xb1, 55" tv, pc, soundbar, modem, and router are all hooked up to it. Just last week the power shut off for a minute and I had both consoles and my pc turned on, and the back up handled it no problem. The display said it had about 10 minutes of power.
i understand and thanks for pointing that out. truthfully, i'm not sure i ever had it plugged directly into the UPS, and if so, it was only for testing purposes (which, now that you say that, comes up a little short). mainly what is plugged into the UPS is an AP, switch, and maybe a basic desktop running firewall.
i do plan on purchasing a new battery backup to fortify my setup though. i was thinking maybe [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487945689&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=apc+ups+1500).
You can get them from $150 - $300 each. They were more expensive when I got mine, but Amazon has them cheap:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU
Yeah, there's such a thing as a UPS Battery Backup.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1492370035&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=UPS
You could build your own system (I have) but for just one 10w light, you might want to try a UPS.
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-BACK-UPS-10-Outlet-1500VA/dp/B003Y24DEU/
should last over eight hours before needing to be recharged.
Amazon $165
The profit will vary quite a bit with the price, but at the current rates, I'm guessing it would take 1-1.5 years running continuously to break even (plan for 1.5-2 years). Furthermore, remember that the breaking even is not necessarily a good investment; the finance side of me would suggest putting the money in a retirement account or index fund where the money would be making 4-7%/yr on average.
I haven't priced anything out in the $15,000 range before. I suppose you can go with multiple 6x RX 470/780 machines at $1.5-2k apiece. I do not think that purchasing expensive CPUs makes much sense, even at this price. Consider cases that may cost more but add modular functionality.
Also, consider buying a battery backup with Automatic Voltage Regulation such as this one when dealing with expensive electronics.
I'd personally say plan ahead and go as big as you can afford. A good UPS will last you through multiple rigs.
My personal UPS is an old APC XS1200, which has been in service for almost a decade.
If I was going to buy a new one, I'd personally look at something like their BR1500G. Lots of power (865W) and the option to add on an external battery for much more runtime if you upgrade and find the stock capacity just isn't cutting it anymore.
Though you should look up your specific power supply and make sure it is compatible with a simulated sine UPS. Some power supplies don't play nice with them and require a true sine UPS.
If that's the case, you'll either need a different power supply or a different UPS. Cyberpower makes true sine UPSs that aren't much more expensive than APC.
I got that with my Pioneer SX-780, particularly with low impedance headphones. After connecting it to a UPS (this one) it went away completely.
Then again, the power at my house is so terrible that I can't use my big tube guitar amps at all, so power conditioning is very noticeable for me.
I have an APC -- hasn't failed me yet. This one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/
Oh, that is something different. That product is just an adapter that you can use to power different devices. The confusion is no fault of your own. This is the type of thing I am talking about: http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-BACK-UPS-10-Outlet-1500VA/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369444359&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=apc+ups
APC is a company that makes universal power supplies. They are top notch! Though, they are quite pricey, upwards of $100. Before we go any further, I really want to determine whether it is actually a problem with your power before you drop $100-$200 on something that won't solve your problem. Looks like you have already started in your last comment.
https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BR1500G/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=J8E0SX0MG2CNF6V2Q2N1
Agreed. This one will work well and has an expansion pack if necessary:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=psdc_764572_t1_B06VY6FXMM
Yes, they are definitely worth it. I recommend one of these (they make a 1000 watt version that I use). Drastically increases life of PSU. Also has easy replaceable batteries (should be available at best buy).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Y24DEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1465213051&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=battery+backup
I put 1000 watt version on all our PC's, and a 1500 Watt version on our home theater/entertainment system.
Also if you can, install this into your main panel, full home surge protector. Tis highly recommended and relatively cheap (takes two breakers).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CONA1OQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465213282&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=home+surge+protector
Should be available at home depot, is fairly easy to install, but because electricity I recommend paying an electrician for half hour of work to install it.
We have notoriously bad power in the area and it usually drops out at least once per month. In order to combat this all of my computing equipment is on a number of different UPS units. The one in my basement running a modem, router, switch, and 2 PoE injectors for my access points is this model: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
When the power drops it usually clocks in at just under 2 hours of uptime which is usually enough as the drops are frequent but short.
>pure sine wave
Is this a pure sine wave UPS? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=s9_al_bw_g23_i4
The 1500VA (865 Watts) is also available but for $170:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B003Y24DEU/ref=olp_f_primeEligible?ie=UTF8&amp;f_primeEligible=true
Here's the main unit and here's the secondary pack.
I use this one. I have a 1080 and 7700K 850W PSU
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Ahh, that may be the issue, I standardised on units like this one which were cheaper/bought elsewhere for less. They are over powered for the job but ensure I get at least 30 minutes runtime. They have no issues given that.
this https://kb.vmware.com/selfservice/microsites/search.do?language=en_US&amp;cmd=displayKC&amp;externalId=1007036
and this
APC Back-UPS Pro
by APC
Link: http://amzn.com/B003Y24DEU
I see you dont want to use the appliance... I still think the USB method works... however I have no tested it.
Hmm, pure sine wave rules out the models I can get locally (just simulated sine wave) so I turned to Amazon. CyberPower CP850PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 850VA 510W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower indicates having both pure sine wave and line interactive covered. What say you?
Bingo. Have personal experience with trying to chain consumer UPSs - even the cheapest ones today are still looking for noisy power, and will switch to battery if the incoming power seems noisy. A chopped sine wave is pretty damn noisy.
And by good enough, yeah they'll run the PC for a bit, but I remember reading something about the chopped sine wave output of most UPSs being particularly hard on PC power supplies a long time ago.
True sine wave UPSs are available at the consumer level now like this CyberPower, but you're going to pay a premium over a traditional UPS. I'm probably going to go with the 1000 VA version of that whenever my current 650 VA craps out, my power goes out a lot (and often comes back on juuuuust as the PC has finished hibernating).
I missed this sale but I went with this UPS
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP850PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N18S/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=UPS&psr=PDAY&qid=1563232456&s=prime-day-secondary&sr=1-2&th=1
&#x200B;
After using this calculator I found out I don't need one that large for my PC and monitors
https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/tools/ups_selector
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=twister_B007UL3ZEK?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
How big of a server do you have? You should really just buy a UPS based on max power draw and not capacity. At max power draw the UPS should last long enough to power down the server, which is really all you want.
I have no issues with my cyberpower UPS. Specifically I bought a CP850PFCLCD (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_g1yADbTHCRPJG) it's a smaller capacity at $129 but is pure sinewave.
This is the one I have. It might be a little small for your rig, though. I have it powering my server and network gear right now.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/
Pure Sine wave output works best with active-PFC high efficiency power supplies.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
&#x200B;
As far as the data you've already lost - I can't tell you how to recover it. But I would remove the drive from the computer until you have a plan.
A total of 7 separate orders. It was a bit annoying because I was mostly on my phone and the mobile apps/chrome wouldn't load properly. Also I would have preferred to bundle orders but oh well. or try to use more coupons but they only give you so many minutes in the cart and sometimes the next item that you're waiting for a deal to start is right outside that window.
I used the Visa30 coupon for above.
Spoga Mop, Broom and Sports Equipment Organizer Wall Mount - $10
I missed out on the $50 gift card because I didn't have the physical credit card with me and it asked for the full card number. I also wanted this Anker BT Speaker but it went pretty fast and everytime the waitlist message popped up on my phone the app was too laggy and I couldn't get it in the cart. oh well.
edit: bargh! just realized i needed a smaller UPS of which there was a cyberpower one on sale. d0h!
Get a UPS like https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WMW5C24PQEHMX1G35BTD It fixed my problem.
Will this UPS/APC http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N192 support my RM1000 PSU? Isn't there something about pure sine waves and PSUs that I need to worry about?
My total system draw is 450w according to PCPartpicker. (I chose the RM1000 because I wanted a quiet system and the fan doesn't kick in until about 45% load, thus making my PSU essentially fanless.)
Was also considering this
Do they have replaceable battery?
What wattage is your APC? I've got an external one 600 watts. Waiting to see what my new rack outputs.
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1000VA/600W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N192/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JZODAbAYZVKAG
That has a stepped wave pattern, it won't work.
80+-rated ATX power supplies have active power factor correction, which will flat-out reject the output from the UPS.
You'd want to look at something like the CP1000PFCLCD from CyberPower (no relation to the system integrator). This particular unit can handle 600w of output.
No. Eciggity has shipped already. Their preorders were $150, retail $170. My slot cost me $126 but I'd consider giving it up for the $150. Word is next round ships on the 8th. Ours may have already shipped.
http://www.reddit.com/r/ECRGroupBuy/comments/2fpugp/ipv_v3_group_buy_update/
Theres no way I have the cash difference but I will within a month. Too much vape crap to buy and buying but I need a laptop. I can't make any decisions till the 17th when I find out if I'm going to jail or not. I should get a stay to get my affairs in order so I can say then.
Also consider @ $120 (incl s/h) trade value: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192
Basically it will support battery backup on an Active PFC system. Typically these things are expensive as hell but this model has been reliable for a few years without more than a yearly maintance cycle in its expendature and a couple power outages that I used it to charge my cell from. It'll power a rated (600w) decent gaming rig for about 5m. I have a ~50w custom build +26w LCD and a router that it holds for just over an hour browsing during an outage
I also have a 21.5" asus 1080p 2ms I'll take $80 in trade value (paid $120). It's cheap because it's not an IPS and doesn't wall mount. Beautiful piece otherwise, well cared for no dead pixels (haven't used in a minute, will confirm before shipping). Narrow bordering (<1in). Touch countrols (no buttons), HDMI/VGA.
this one https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192
CyberPower makes a ton of UPSs. One of these would work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N192?ref=emc_b_5_t&amp;th=1
Forgot to add it to the list, but I already have one.
Can confirm. My power is very erratic, and I was not happy with how many times my electronics were being exposed to power drops. Picked up this guy and everything's been nice and protected ever since:
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS UPS 1000VA 600W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00429N192/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_tbRqvg4iDs2TV
Just fyi, the battery time depends on how loaded you have the UPS. I just purchased this one recently to upgrade an older one and with my gaming PC, 3 monitors, and PS4 connected I have a power draw of about 300 watts with regular windows use(non heavy gaming). The UPS I bought has a limit of 600w so if my power suddenly ran out I would have around 12 minutes of battery to run on. If I packed the 600w of power draw, I'd probably get a minute of charge or something less than that even. Just keep that in mind when choosing a UPS. Also, if you'll be connecting a PC. Try to get one with Pure Sinewave.
Any regular UPS would be fine for your setup, there's absolutely nothing special about what you've listed lol. Also, 400watts seems pretty high for a laptop, but if you're sure that's the rated wattage, I'd recommend getting something like the CyberPower 1000VA/600W UPS which should have ample headroom for the laptop and everything else and keep you chugging for a little while after you lose power.
I have this and love it:
CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 1000VA 600W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N192/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_clSQzb6DX29XX
awesome, thanks for the tips!
I've seen a few models that especially note they are sinewave in the description, but most of the time that data is buried.
Will my new power supply have any issues being plugged into my UPS? I was mentioned having to get the correct Sine/Sinewave for my PSU but can't find anything. Thank you.
So are VA and Watt different terms for overall power? This UPS says 1000VA/600W - https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP850PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_9?crid=2HKTXQJQTLBX2&keywords=ups%2Bcomputer%2Bbackup&qid=1554593103&refinements=p_72%3A1248879011&rnid=1248877011&s=electronics&sprefix=ups%2Bcomput%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-9&th=1
do both of these numbers matter or are they both the same thing in two different "languages"? Also will this work for atleast 10 minutes with 3 monitors and a i9/2060 rig?
You may have already ordered this one but I was thrown off by the question and answers in the listing that it's not "pure" sine wave output and devices with active power factor correction power supplies (like synology NAS) might shut down when the unit switches to UPS. I instead opted for this Cyberpower CP1000PFCLCD which is working well to support a 5 drive DS1019+ (you don't say which type of NAS you are looking to protect.)
Sorry man, UPS is your best bet. There are deals all the time on the CyberPower 1000VA for $85 at Amazon right now. It will save your butt. Just do PMS checks on the battery and you'll be good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N192/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
this is literally the only UPS you can buy, basically. you need one that is PFC compatible due to your PSU. I learned that the hard way as my power went out today and my PSU was unable to power my computer so it shut off as my UPS was not PFC compatible.
CyberPower 1000VA 600W for 125
Makerfarm Pegasus 12"
Printing from USB.
I suspect I've got a power issue. Old house, old wiring. Nothing is grounded properly and there are air conditioners running. Anyone else with similar problems find a solution? I've been upgrading the wiring in the house slowly but this is a tough leg to get to and will likely require a LOT of work to upgrade so it's not happening soon.
I'm thinking of a UPS like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N192/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
for iCUE, yes it's for corsair products. But you can do the same thing by using an UPS that has a USB connection. Like this one which is the one I personally use. I recommend EVERY pc gamer with an expensive computer get a UPS similar to that one.
Yea, at this price it isn't worth it with a fake sine wave. I got this one for $85 2 years ago that was all my system needs max load wise with real sine wave.
Nah I think I'm fine with wattage. I'm using a 1050 Ti which shouldn't consume more than 75W as there's no PCI-E connector. The CPU itself, depending on vcore and stuff, shouldn't consume more than 100W.
Toms hardware had it at 82W with Prime95
So that right there should be around 160W(estimated up). The rest of the stuff is minimal wattage. 4 case fans, 2 SSDs, 1 HDD shouldn't consume a lot. In fact, I have a CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD and it has a wattage output on the display. My PC rarely consumes more than 200W.
Based on what a lot of people are saying on this thread, it seems like a bios issue since MSI, Asrock, Asus boards seem to have similar issues.
Thanks, this is very helpful. Would the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 P2 and the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS be a good pairing? I don't mind spending a little more for the P2 over the G2 unless it doesn't really make a big difference.
Sidenote: The power always flickers when we have heavy winds. It's been an issue for years and years.
Protip for local residents: Get yourself a Sinewave UPS to protect your computer's power supply.
Thanks for posting this. I was going to purchase one this morning. I looked up my power supply's specs (Seasonic SS-760XP2); has Active PFC. Looking for an alternative, I see that the CyberPower CP1000PFCLCD isn't that much more expensive. I'm going to keep an eye on that one in future sales.
CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1350VA/810W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oGBzDbRF1N1EN
Something like this wouldn’t be enough to keep the lights going and a clip on fan or two safely?
I was going to mention this too. OP, if you ever end up using a PFC PSU you'll need sine wave power or you'll have problems. I run my workstation and NAS off the 1500VA version of this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19M/ref=twister_B007UL3ZEK?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've been extremely happy with cyberpower. The price/performance on these things is spectacular.
1350VA unit is still on sale it seems
https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19M?th=1
Haha I feel so dumb. Thanks you for pointing that out. I just ordered an 810 watt one. 810 watts should be plenty for my PC and monitor.
Have you tested your system to make sure you didn't fry anything? If a PSU suffers a violent ESD, it can smoke your motherboard, CPU, RAM, GPU, and SSDs, so you should test them all pretty thoroughly.
In the future, ALWAYS have a good surge protector or UPS. A good quality surge protector like the CyberPower CSP706T is a mere $25. Even a good quality UPS like the CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD is only $200.
Well, define "cleaned"? I have this UPS which makes some claims about cleaning up the line a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
You could pick up this UPS if you wanted alternatively as well. The other UPS is rated at 600W output, that one is rated at 800W output. Even though its a 750w PSU, really your system shouldn't be pulling anywhere near that from the wall under normal use outside maxing out the GPU and CPU at the same time.
For example I have 2 computers running off my 900W UPS and with one pulling 100-150w at idle and the other one running both of my overclocked 1080s at max with the 140w base TDP CPU thats overclocked and pulls over 200w by itself at max at a gaming load the total draw from both of those computers typically doesn't exceed 800w from the wall on the UPS. So 600w SHOULD be fine for the UPS, but you could get the 800w one if you felt like having some overhead.
After doing some research I just said fuck it got one of these : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19M?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01
1350VA version aprox. $175 New:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00429N19M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
Generally speaking, at minimum you're going to want to match or exceed the wattage of your PSU with the wattage of your UPS... something like this would fit the bill. As others have mentioned, APC and Tripp Lite are also reputable manufacturers with similar models. The larger/higher wattage you go, the more battery capacity you will have and the more time it will give you to exit out and shut down in the event of a power failure. Comes down to personal choice and budget :) in the end.
The most important component you can buy is an Uninterruptible Power Supply (battery backup). I recommend Cyberpower.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=cyberpower&qid=1563118192&s=gateway&sr=8-4
I always post this one as it's the one I'd recommend most (and use myself). http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1393656726&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=pfclcd
about 900w, nice display, a good number of battery powered ports, usb ports for chargers etc, multiple connections so you can use the software (auto shutdown etc), pure sinewave etc. I'm running my pc and 2 monitors off it and draw about 680w max (big cfl monitors, overclocked i5 and a single upper midrange gpu). This gives me a few minutes of run time when gaming if the power cuts out and a pretty significant amount of run time if the computer is sleeping (when the computer/monitors are in standby it shows less than 1-5w usage)
Depending what type of powersupply is in your HTPC and other devices, it might require a true sine wave. Here is a CyberPower that has it.
Everyone should have a Sinewave UPS System for their entertainment center. Crazy that ANYONE thinks surge protectors will last more than a single brownout.
example for the lazy: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=apc+pure+sine+wave+ups&amp;qid=1563861823&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-5
I'm wondering if the power thing is a coincidence but given your experience with using a different circuit think it should be probed
further.
What power supply and CPU are in your rig?
I would also highly reccomend you get a line interactive UPS that will smooth over fluctuations in the power for you, eliminating much of the stress on your power supply.
Yes, they are expensive but they drastically reduce the stress on connected components thus increase their lifespan.
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/900W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xn30AbXS62C8Y
You can get a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Source) cheap enough nowadays. That way you don't have to deal with concocting a deep cycle lead acid battery, trickle charger and an inverter. Or spend a little real coin and get 30 whole minutes of full-on computer use like nothing ever happened.
If you're that worried about it, run a pure since battery backup.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494768030&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pure+sine+wave+battery+backup
This is the one I use. Sorry for the link, on my phone. Anyone who works off their home computer is a bit of a ninny for not having one. A single small power surge in the area can mean a fried computer or at minimum, lost time.
I have a Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD UPS. It shows the total pull on the UPS, but not per outlet. It is nice to see though.
But yeah, it's not exactly "cheap", but then again, it's not rack mounted, so it's not obscenely expensive either.
Also, totally worth having. Especially as I purchased mine after having a friend drive into the power poll outside my apartment and damaging some hardware because of it.
I mean something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/
I'm not familiar with a torch heat attachment, but as long as it blows air hotter than a hair dryer and not a flame then it sounds like it'll work.
Cyber power UPS is great, not super enterprise grade but still great. Comes with easy to deploy OVA template for esxi to safely shutdown the machine. Also with web panel to configure shutdown parameters and calculated energy used. Tons of other stuff but those are some of my favorites. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_e-BszbWD7CF3V
I highly recommend this UPS
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System
You can get whatever capacity you need. They're rated in VA (Volt-Amps), which if you're familiar with Ohm's Law, is really a description of power. But it's important to note that that's power IN, not power out. Power out is 60% efficient on that UPS at 1500VA/900W. It's also important to note that this efficiency trade-off ONLY matters when power is being supplied from the battery of the UPS. Otherwise, power is passed through from the wall. I'm not sure if it's cleaned - I'd have to look at the UPS spec.
I've purchased two of these - one November 2016 and another November 2017. I got both of them for $120ish with holiday deals. I like getting the warranty, because these things sometimes fail. I've been really happy with the CyberPower - it's the best sine wave you'll get out of a consumer product. Mine are still running strong @ 1 & 2 years old, each.
You could get a APC UPS as a temporary power surge/power outage... generally most should work but due to conversion from AC to DC you won't get very efficient use of the battery. I personally have a Maxoak battery which is around $300 on Amazon but there are cheaper options out there... the Maxoak comes standard with 12v/15v/24v output and can go DC to DC using a single cable...rather than forcing you to buy a bulky $90 Resmed DC power brick.
For reference this is what I have my CPAP plugged into
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
If and when power ever cut out I might switch it over to my Maxoak CPAP battery as these types of units aren't good for going all night... but for temporary brief outages it suffices.
It really depends on how much power what you're plugging in uses, the UPS' battery size, and the reliability of the manufacturer.
I have a 1500VA 900W CyberPower UPS I got on Black Friday for $140. I have my media server, router, and a switch plugged into it, and it's enough to keep all of that running with no power for roughly 50 minutes.
If you're seriously considering getting an UPS, I'd first buy something like the Kill a Watt. Plug a power strip into it, with all the electronics you're considering having plugged into the UPS, and see how much power they're using combined.
The general rule of thumb is to shoot for 20-25% more power on your UPS to give a buffer and time on batteries. The more battery time you want, the more power you want.
I'm averaging between 100-180W with all my gear plugged into the UPS, but it's rated for 900W with a good battery, so I get a far longer time up on batteries than I would if I had only gotten a 250W UPS. Didn't need all that extra room, but that Black Friday deal was a complete steal, and to be honest, I'm lazy as hell and hate having to restart my server and all my scripts that run on it.
Agreed. This is good advice.
Look at something like this (or exactly this) for power backup:
CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
400 watts, not minutes! This is what I got.
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
Everything in the picture in plugged into the UPS.
This one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N19W/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apu_8CZNBbVQ72APM
you will need to look for a UPS that can support the amount of power you are utilizing. All standard UPS's come with multiple power outlets to support many things. So in theory, yes it can support what you need. Your just going to need to look for a higher wattage UPS.
I have personally been looking to pick up this UPS http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
I ended up going with this: https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=gbps_img_s-3_f594_179e402b?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_p=792638f4-503b-48ce-9fbc-ebd4daa1f594&amp;pf_rd_s=slot-3&amp;pf_rd_t=701&amp;pf_rd_i=gb_main&amp;pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;pf_rd_r=SHAR5SAD3HKJV2MMWWR5
UPS deals are live
1325VA pure sine wave: Newegg $110
1500VA pure sine wave: Amazon $130
I'm considering buying this 1500VA CyberPower UPS for my PC setup. My electronics are a Schiit Magni/Modi 2U and an SMSL SA-50. Will the power from the UPS be clean enough for my equipment?
I looked up my parts and almost my pc will take 700 so I'll buy a 900w for safety
Was looking at this https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cyberpower+ups&amp;qid=1570935967&amp;sprefix=cyberpowe&amp;sr=8-5
and buying a warranty but it says it can only stop 1030 joules isnt that bad compared to this 20$ thing that can stop 4000
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-12-Outlet-Surge-Protector-8-Foot/dp/B07GPF72BZ/ref=sxin_2_pb?keywords=surge+protector&amp;pd_rd_i=B07GPF72BZ&amp;pd_rd_r=278dc1c5-4b55-49cc-9564-869818245fe9&amp;pd_rd_w=lnpmC&amp;pd_rd_wg=SjSbl&amp;pf_rd_p=142f0711-e8a5-4008-b825-e84d92002664&amp;pf_rd_r=00VYT688Y09K271BG28W&amp;qid=1570936059&amp;sprefix=sur
That's my last question sorry for not knowing much I would be lost with out you
If you have a power supply with APFC you may need this one instead:
https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W
Pure sine wave. Also has AVR.
Yes 900 watts should do fine.
this got me curious. my mk3 pulls close to 300 when heating, <50 to maintain and 50-150 during active printing (reasonable temps, 220/60).
consumer UPS are really designed more for safety and protection rather than outright runtime, which is why you always see them rated for load/VA and battery AH is not mentioned. That said, I have a Cyberpower 1500va pfc unit which has something like 200wh of battery capacity. so, probably less than an hour for a normal 3d printer.
I love this rack and for under $100 it's a damn steal. The hardware is dirt cheap and everything fits well in the rack. I only have about 8 of the 1u spacers in the back to sort the cables.
http://www.amazon.com/b?node=764572
From what I've read, the sinewave models are better. But yes, you want to make sure you pay for enough coverage. Too little and it won't do its job.
No, you should not plug a surge protector into a UPS.
Looks pretty highly rated on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-Back-UPS-10-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B003Y24DEU
Nothing wrong with a lower end model. I sometimes use a BE650G1 for smaller jobs. Great, affordable, and reliable system.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005GZRUZW/ref=pd_aw_sims_6?pi=SL500_SS115&amp;amp;simLd=1
Edit: just realized the 650 I linked to might not power a TV and console for 15 minutes as OP specified.
At this point, I’d recommend using a wall mounted rack. If you’d like to stick with the panel, this UPS may be small enough to fit in there.
Build looks pretty good, the 1070 should be plenty to max any games you want to play at 60 fps, as long as you aren't doing 4k, multi-monitor surround etc. Even then it could do alright, just with appropraitly tweaked settings. If you're doing 1080p or 1440p @ 60 Hz then you should have no problems whatsoever.
As for the UPS:
You need to be careful shopping for one that will be used for sensitive electronics like a PC, as you'll need one with specific features. Something like this would probably suite your needs. In general though, you'll want to look for a UPS the is made to be used with computers and other sensitive electronics; not all are. Some don't regulate incoming power and don't guarantee a clean 120V AC current, since they don't do any regulation of incoming power. "Dirty" power like this can destroy PSUs and other computer components (though it should stop at the PSU if you buy a good one). If you buy an appropriate PSU, they actually offer the added benefit of protecting your system from any kind of electrical anomalies such as surges and brown outs, as well as preventing unsafe power cuts. Also, keep in mind that even high end PSUs will only have enough power to keep a system running for a handful of minutes; if you wanted extended uptime from them you'd have to expand the battery banks extensively, and that ain't cheap.
If you want to see how long your system could run off a particular PSU, they all measure their available up-time with Volt Amperes. It can be a little mind-boggling so here's some links:
http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/34745/choosing-power-supply-how-to-get-the-voltage-and-current-ratings
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/256419-28-rails-voltage-amps-explain
P.S. I'm from the U.S. so everything is 120V AC @ 60Hz. You may be running 220V? Something else to be aware of.
Kind of a meh deal. I bought a CyberPowerPC 1500VA/900W UPS last year for $142 (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000FBK3QK/)
Sadly not pure sine wave but you only really need a pure sine wave UPS for audio equipment anyway.
I have absolutely no idea, but it looks like you may want this if you want to keep you computer on it (over your budget, but currently on sale), or something like this thats more so within your budget but wont support your PC. You could also get a tool to test and get an exact-imate power draw from the wall for what you want to use and then return it and buy your UPS. For the record i simply went to amazon and typed UPS and picked the top two things.
these are just fine and 1/4 the price...
Probably not, it'll even complain if it's in rest mode and loses connectivity. I would say it's more annoying than anything.
In the event you don't have it on a good surge protector already, I would do that and maybe consider a cheap UPS like this.
That way if you're power is just literally flickering/dying momentarily you have a 4-5 minute window.