Best computer networking switches according to redditors

We found 2,837 Reddit comments discussing the best computer networking switches. We ranked the 551 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Computer Networking Switches:

u/Calijor · 78 pointsr/worldnews



I appreciate the importance of network security but... Just get an old PC and install a wifi card and use a network switch for ethernet ports. You'll save at least $100 if not more, at the cost of only a bit of space, and can use the same software.

u/ThrowinAwayTheDay · 63 pointsr/gadgets


What $400 could get you instead:

u/dan4334 · 60 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

Tell your Dad to just spend $12 and get a switch that has 10 times the bandwidth, and doesn't have collision problems a hub has.

u/srhavoc · 25 pointsr/networking
u/pfsensebox · 23 pointsr/netsec

I use one of these running VMware ESXi with a pfSense VM that is the only VM that is bound to the WAN interface, the other port is a trunk port for multiple VLANs.

Initially I used this simple Netgear ProSafe switch that supports VLANs:

My network is much more complex now but thats a good start.

Disclaimer: Everything is backdoored now that the government can place gag orders on companies and force them to comply for "security." Is VMware backdoored or has tons of 0-days? Absolutely. Is that shuttle system? Absolutely. Is pfSense? Probably. Are the VMs running on it? Definitely because VMware is. Is that switch? Probably.

Security online no longer exists as long as governments are forcing companies to make vulnerable software and hardware.

u/mrmcweird · 22 pointsr/techsupport

Like others said, I'd just look for another provider. If not, the following could work if you really want that one provider.

It isn't a simple answer, but it's still possible:

This may break your neighbor's terms with their ISP, but if you have a line-of-site, you could always set up a point-to-point connection. If you're worried about being on the same network, get a cheap managed switch and set up a VLAN of your own. Then pay your neighbor for part of their bill.

u/rmg22893 · 18 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you get all those devices in one box, they're going to all be inferior to discrete solutions. And if one breaks, you're throwing away several perfectly functioning devices.

Edgerouter Lite 3-port: $95

Unifi AC-Lite: $86

TP-Link Gigabit Switch: $25

If you want to do cheap NAS, you might as well just share a drive on a desktop over the network.

u/nibbles_and_bits · 18 pointsr/techsupport

The IT department has their own DHCP server which assigns internal IP address for the devices on their network. The router also has a DHCP server, and it was probably configured. The problem here is that devices will connect to the router, get a valid IP from the router only, and not see school's network. It's a big problem.

The router can be configured (I believe) to forward on DHCP requests, but I think it's better that you get a simple 5-port switch. They might be able to provide such a thing (maybe not, given their unwillingness to help so far), or you could buy one for cheap.

So, I'd remove the router, tell them that you need a switch since you only have one port in the office and have x many devices that need to be connected. If they can't give you that, maybe just buy it.

u/Onlythefinestwilldo · 16 pointsr/homelab

Now that you mention it, I'd be curious too. I'll tally it up and get back to you all.

Edit: here it is!

Thing |Price | Quantity
Belkin Power Strip | 30 | 1
Raspberry Pi 3 B+ | 38.30 | 2
Miuzei Raspberry Pi Cooling Case Kit | 25.99 | 2
Netgear 8 Port Gigabit Switch | 17.99 | 1
WD 2 TB External Hard Drive | 59.99 | 4
KingDian 8GB SSD | 10 | 1
Mitac PD12TI CC Mini-ITX Motherboard w/ Intel Atom D2500 CPU | 149.99 | 1
Mini-Box picoPSU-80 80w 12v PSU | 28.95 | 1
Sabrent 12v AC power supply | 10.98 | 1

Total: $616.45

I was doing pretty good until I got to the damn WD hard drives. I suspect I paid way too much for how good they are. Probably could have saved some money by making an enclosure and using real hard drives or something

u/MoistSquid · 15 pointsr/softwaregore

Not OP, but we've deployed Ubiquiti products in a few of our enterprise customers and it is running great. I am not sure how much you already know about networking, but I'll explain for anyone else reading.

First, some background to fully understand what it is you are trying to do. The thing that most consumers call "routers" are really three things: a router, a switch, and an access point. TLDR the router portion is the thing that actually moves traffic between machines, the switch extends how many physical ethernet ports you have, and the access point gives you wifi.

The Ubiquiti Access Points (UAP) are just access points. You will still need a router to route traffic, and your consumer one will work just fine for most people. If you are looking to get something more SOHO, Ubiquiti also makes their own router/firewall (check out USG, or ideally EdgeRouter). For all intents and purposes, it is a pretty good idea to separate the roles of your network (physical appliances for the router, firewall, wireless, etc...), and you can have as many UAP's as you'd like for wireless. The UAP's run off of Ubiquiti's 24V Power-over-Ethernet (POE), which can be provided via a POE injector or with a Ubiquiti Switch (either Unifi or EdgeMax). So for a basic network, you'll disable the wireless functionality on your consumer router, and plug a UAP into a port (obviously you'll need to pass it through the POE injector first). Rinse and repeat for however many UAP's you want, maybe another one on the other side of the house for example.

The UAP is pretty useless on its own, though. It needs a piece of software called the Unifi Controller. The software is free, and you can run it on Windows, Linux, or with Ubiquiti's appliance called the Cloud Key. Within Unifi Controller, you'll setup the UAP's; e.g. setting the visible wifi name (SSID), security, channels, etc... It isn't too complicated, the interface is really intutive and anyone who is even slightly technical could figure it out. The controller also serves another really important feature, which is zero-handoff. As long as the controller is running, your device will connect to the access point with the best signal. This is the seamless switching you asked about.

Ubiquiti also is focused on mesh networking, although we are generally pretty against that for businesses for reliability reasons. Of course, the exception to that is Cisco Meraki, which is a hybrid that will self-heal. If you lie and say you are an IT professional, you can get a free Meraki with a 3 year license. Just make sure that you follow the rules.

As a note, I would stick to the UAP AC's. They are the newer version and run great. For consumers, the UAP-AC-LITE is going to work fine. Obviously there is more to networking and wireless solutions than what I went over here, but this is the general gist of it.

u/omgmrj · 14 pointsr/battlestations

Desk handmade by local cabinetmaker. Monitor section can be flipped and dropped 3"

13" Macbook Pro with Retina

32" 1080p LG LCD (Haven't decided what to replace with yet)

Mackie 402-VLZ3 mixer (being replaced by Denon Pro receiver)

Yamaha MSP5 powered monitors (yeah, yeah, I need to get stands. These are getting replaced by Genelec 8030s)

Wacom Intuos 3 graphics tablet

Late 2009 Mac Mini


First gen Xbox 360 to not have RROD

Logitech Bluetooth receiver

Cable raceway

TrendNet broadband router

Managed Switch

Short computer power cable

Short "Mickey Mouse" power cable

Short micro USB cable (for Chromecast)

Buy some of these, you slobs

20W amp

Qi wireless charger, didn't work well with my Nexus 4.


Flat-head power strip, behind my bed

Ikea MALM bed and nightstands.

u/harrynyce · 14 pointsr/pihole

The most difficult part is planning out which devices go where and how to best segment services from one another. Some folks with extensive labs and equipment get quite granular with their approach, potentially having separate VLANs for everything from storage (NFS, SMB, etc.) traffic to networking devices and servers. I'm FAR from an expert, so my goal was to start simply and begin by getting this IoT traffic separated. Using (redundant) Pi-hole(s) it's quite easy to see how much traffic is generated from a single Roku device, we're seeing 10+ thousand requests daily for various Roku logging servers, plus additional Google traffic related to various smart home speakers (Google Home Mini x4) and on and on it goes.

I'd also encourage you to redirect DNS traffic for devices (such as the Google Home Minis), as they come with hard-coded DNS servers which will work around your Piholes, or other DNS blacklisting efforts. That's a separate project which can be implemented on your router with some sNAT & dNAT rules which will invisibly redirect traffic to your chosen DNS servers, be it locally or upstream. I'm achieving these things by running Unbound with Pi-hole, as my own little in-house, recursive DNS servers, rather than using the typical upstream DNS, provided by either your ISP, or Cloudflare ( &, Google ( & or Quad9 ( & but that's up to you to decide what's best for your own network.

Here's a great video to hopefully get you started. I can't seem to find the blog post I was thinking of, but I learned a lot from this video, then you just have to translate specifics to your type of router and networking gear:


Hope this helps. Please let us know how you make out, or if I was unclear in my ramblings above. I'm still learning too, so please keep in mind that I'm anything of an expert, but I enjoy tinkering and am trying to take our data privacy seriously. It's a constant trade-off to be able to utilize much of today's technology. We want to be able to continue controlling lights, locks and things remotely and/or with our voice, so the least I could do was try and restrict the en masse data collection.

EDIT: What type of router are you using? Not sure who mentioned having a Meraki device. I'm using an Edgerouter 12 with UniFi wireless access point (UAP-AC-LR) and a Cisco SG300-20 small business switch, but the ER12 also had its own 8-port built in switch, and I've also got an ultra cheap TP-Link 8-port switch (TL-SG108E), as it was the absolute cheapest way for me to get a budget Gbps switch that supported advanced features that a truly managed switch would have, such as QoS, VLANs, port mirroring, LAG groups and such.

u/KingdaToro · 13 pointsr/HomeNetworking

All you need:

1x UniFi Security Gateway

2x UniFi AP AC Pro

Optional: 1x UniFi Switch 8-60w. You will need some sort of switch as the USG only has one LAN port. You can use an ordinary unmanaged switch, which will be much cheaper, but then you'll need to use the PoE injectors to power the APs (they're included with the APs). This switch will power them on its own.

Optional: 1x UniFi Cloud Key. This is just a dedicated device for running the UniFi Controller, which is what you use to configure and manage all UniFi devices. You can run it on a PC instead if you want.

But since you're doing a total gut renovation, you should take the opportunity to do your network right. Your goal shouldn't be to put everything on Wi-Fi, it should be to put as many things as possible on Ethernet, and just use Wi-Fi where Ethernet isn't an option. Anything that stays put, i.e. TVs, desktop computers, streaming media players, game consoles, even printers should always use Ethernet if they support it. The more things you get off the Wi-Fi, the faster it'll be for the things that need it.

First, figure out where your network hub will be, all your lines will run to it. It's where you'll have your modem, router, and main switch. The best location is a basement, but if you don't have one, use a utility closet/room. Make sure the location is ventilated and not too hot.

Next figure out how many Ethernet lines you need. Minimum is one to every location where you'll have a TV or desk, but this is likely to necessitate additional switches. Ideally, you should run five to the location of your main entertainment center and two to every other TV and desk location. You'll also need one for each AP, these will run to the spots on the ceiling where you'll put the APs. You'll also want to run a coaxial cable to each TV location. Once you know how many Ethernet lines you need, you need to get at least that many punch-down keystone jacks (minus two, as the AP lines won't need them), a punch-down patch panel with at least that many ports, and a gigabit switch with at least this many ports (plus one for the router). Make sure your patch panel and jacks match the category rating of your cable, i.e. Cat5e or Cat6. You'll also need a few RJ45 plugs (get ones made for solid-conductor cable) and punch-down and crimping tools.

For the cable, you'll want solid conductor, pure copper cable. Don't get stranded cable, and don't get cable made of copper clad aluminum (CCA). Make sure it's riser rated, but don't get plenum rated cable. Cat5e is all you need for gigabit, and it's cheaper and easier to terminate. Get Cat6 if you want to future-proof for 10 gigabit. Get a 1000 foot bulk spool, Monoprice is a good place to get it.

You'll also need a bunch of pre-made Ethernet patch cables. You can make your own, but it's tricky to get right and time-consuming. You'll first need one for connecting each patch panel port to a switch port. These should be as short as possible, 1-3 feet. Two more for connecting the switch to the router and the router to the modem. Two more if you'll be using the PoE injectors to power the APs. All of these should still be as short as possible. Then you'll need one for connecting each Ethernet-using device to one of the wall jacks that you'll be installing, these should be 6 feet or longer if necessary.

When you do the install, first mount the patch panel at your network hub location. Run each line from the patch panel to a keystone jack, which will go in a keystone wall plate which mounts to a low-voltage bracket. The AP lines won't get keystone jacks, these (and only these) will get RJ45 plugs to connect directly to the APs. Once all the lines are installed, set up the main switch. Connect each port of the patch panel to a switch port. If you're using PoE injectors to power the APs, connect the PoE port of each injector to an AP port on the patch panel and the LAN port to the switch. Finally, connect the router's LAN port to the switch and the router's WAN/Internet port to the modem/ONT.

u/superdude905 · 13 pointsr/techsupport

Just get a switch you can plug your one cable into it and get 4 outputs to use with multiple devices at the same time they are very inexpensive

u/vanguard_anon · 12 pointsr/buildapc

What you want is an unmanaged gigabit switch. There is a chance that a 100Mb switch will slow you down at school so you don't want that.

Just about all unmanaged gigabit switches are the same speed and super reliable so you can get a cheap one. This should work:

u/bothunter · 12 pointsr/techsupport

What kind of speeds are you talking about? In my dorm, we had super fast (at the time 100Mbit). If you plugged in a crappy $40 router from the store, the WAN port was only 10Mbit. If, however we bought a $40 switch, all the ports were 100mbit(or, if you splurged, 1000Mbit)

It's very likely that you simply are plugged in to a gigabit network and don't need a router at all. What happens if you plug your computer straight into the network port on the wall? Do you get the super fast speeds? If so, go buy a network switch and not a router. Something like this might fix it:

If you're really feeling adventurous, try finding something that supports jumbo packets and enabling that on your computer.

Basically, your dorm just has a very large local network. You only need a home router if you are only assigned one IP address. It's very likely they'll give you as many dedicated IP addresses as you need, so the overhead of mapping multiple devices to one IP address is unnecessary.

u/CBRjack · 11 pointsr/wireless

Don't go with repeaters. What you should get is a wireless bridge. This will act just like a wire, allowing you to install an access point in the Hall with the same SSID and password (for roaming).

Repeaters cut the speed in half. Having several in succession means there will be nothing left at the other end.

Have a look at Ubiquiti Nanobeam AC. These will act just like if it was a long wire. You will be able to get a very good connection and the speed won't suffer. They are rated up to 15km, so 450 ft is nothing for them.

Install one on the church, one on the hall, and then get a nice access point for the hall, like the Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite.

They aren't too expensive and should fit well in your budget. has them for $90 each. For the AP, has them for $82. If the hall is large, you could get a switch and 2-3 APs to get a good coverage.

Total cost for 2 nanobeam and an AP : $262
Total cost for 2 nanobeam, a switch and 3 APs : $454

u/DaNPrS · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Return those shitty routers and get some proper networking equipment. There are no Apple switches if that's what you want. Any switch works just like any proper router works. It'd be a sad day if Apple made yet another Apple only protocol.

Switch, and WAP.

You can use what you have if you really want to. Just consider the fact that no professionals do.

u/dweezil22 · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

To add some details for OP. All they need is a simple cheap unmanaged switch. They should be able to get that for under $25. Here's one at Amazon for $20:

At my house I have the following at the moment:

  • Fios ONT

  • Ubiquiti Edgerouter-X, connecting to the following things via Cat5e cable:

  1. UAC LR (to cover most of my house)

  2. UAC Lite (on a cable run up to the top floor of my house to cover the upstairs)

  3. Google Voice VOIP box

  4. 12 port unmanaged switch to go to all the other ethernet jacks around my house

    Now some of those ethernet jacks are in locations where I have multiple wired devices (like my office or home entertainment center). In each of those places I have a second $20 unmanaged switch that I use to turn that single jack into multiple wired spots.

    Unmanaged switches are cheap, incredibly easy to setup (literally just plug them in) and high performance, you can basically use them as an ethernet splitter. You do NOT want to use a router in place of them for no reason, as the router's going to bring a bunch of network complexity and isolation that you neither need nor want.

    TL;DR Unmanaged switches are neat
u/BlueEyesLotus · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can't use an "Ethernet splitter" but you can buy a small home switch.

You can get them for under 30$ at your local electronics store or on amazon.

I'd suggest a model like this one.

u/wanderingbilby · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

There are APs that have some switch capability, but most of them are enterprise level. You can put a router into AP mode and it may also switch locally, or you can install an open source OS on a router and set it up that way - but it's going to have more poor performance than a stand-alone switch or AP.

u/Kv603 · 10 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Go with a "name brand", and look for the best warranty, highest rated total throughput (per port, and "switch fabric").

I'm using a TRENDnet 8-port under my TV, has worked well for me for nearly a decade, quiet (fanless) and simple; their metal-enclosed network switches have a limited lifetime warranty.

u/6roybatty6 · 9 pointsr/eero

There's no such thing as an ethernet splitter, or at least not which does what you want it to do. There are, however, very small ethernet switches:

I'd suggest that.

u/ICThat · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You want an unmanaged switch.

Personally I use and like this one.

u/nsweaves · 8 pointsr/eero

Here's what I have at home. Works great:
TP-Link TL-SG1008D 8-Port Unmanaged Gigabit Network Switch

u/NauticalBustard · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Unmanaged switches just connect devices.

Managed switches can do more; like monitor performance (via SNMP), create VLANs, aggregate multiple ports into a bonded interface, provide electricity to run other devices (power over Ethernet, or PoE) prioritise traffic via QoS, etc.

The managed version of your switch would be something like the GS108E, GS108T [can trunk/aggregate ports] or GS108PE [can provide PoE].

If you don't need any of the managed functions, an unmanaged switch is fine.

u/Chrisagu28 · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Picked up this 8 port unmanaged switch from TP-Link for 14.99 instead of the normal 39.99.

u/ssps · 8 pointsr/synology

Any unmanaged switch from fairly well known brands will be fine. I recommend Netgear — the metal ones, like this one:

I had issues with TPLink and DLink and older plastic Netgear ones (actively avoid those— they like to hang under certain conditions)— even though you might think that switch technology should have been polished by now.. turns out it isn’t.

u/fonoop · 8 pointsr/cordcutters

An ethernet switch will do what you need. It looks like a router but it's specifically for instances where you need to share a single ethernet cable from a router with two or more devices. They are pretty cheap.

Just plug all three cables in and the switch will take care of the rest.

u/SirEDCaLot · 7 pointsr/homedefense

Honestly- my best advice for you is DON'T go to Costco. You can do much better than anything they have there. All the Costco stuff is Swann/Lorex/etc which is mostly rebadged Hikvision/Dahua stuff.

If you don't have a price limit, do it right.

I'd suggest the easiest 'good' camera to go with is Ubiquiti. Ubiquiti is largely a networking company, but they have a solid surveillance system as well.

Start with the Cloud Key Gen2+ ($191). That's the NVR, and the core of all things Ubiquiti.
Then get the US-8-150W PoE switch. It's an 8 port powered switch, good for up to 6 cameras- that's 6 cameras, the cloud key, and the uplink to your router.
Finally the cameras- try the UVC-G3-Pro. It's one of their higher end cameras at $263 each. But it has a zoom lens so you can customize the field of view, good night vision, and good quality.
If you want the lower end cameras, try the UVC-G3-Flex (about $80) or the UVC-G3-Dome (about $135). Flex is a pretty good camera but night vision isn't as good. Dome is similar quality to the G3 Pro, maybe a little less, but without the zoom lens and also not waterproof (so it can be outside, but only under an overhang).

Now run Cat6 cable from each camera location to a central spot, where you plug in all this stuff.

This is going to cost more than your average Costco camera-in-a-box thing, especially if you use Pro cameras. But the quality and functionality will be a LOT better.

And if you want to upgrade your home network, maybe swap out the 8 port switch for a bigger switch like a US-24-250w (24 ports, $400) and a UniFi Security Gateway ($150ish). Then add some UAP-AC-Pros (about $120) and you'll have amazing WiFi.

u/Lagotta · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

How many more ports do you need? (Now, and say for the next year or two, looking ahead?)

Five ports: (leaves your four ports to work with, since one port is used to connect to your router)



8 ports (leaves you seven to use for your devices)



Another five port, all metal case, lifetime warranty (not a big deal)




u/XGuntank02X · 7 pointsr/xboxone

I'd personally remove the DECA and put one of these in place.

u/Robots_Never_Die · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want a affordable gigabit setup with Ubiquiti just run this setup.

  • USG $110
  • Unifi AP AC Lite $80
  • TP-Link 8 Port Unmanaged Switch $25
  • 1000' cat 5e $85
  • 24 port patch panel $19

    If you don't have a gigabit connection you can swap out the USG for an ER-X which will knock off $50 but if you have the $50 to spend I would suggest staying with the USG so all your managed products are on the Unifi admin interface. You can also save some money by going with 500' of cat 5e if you don't need the full 1k foot spool.
u/LordZelgadis · 7 pointsr/homelab

You don't have to do top tier everything for a homelab.

Most people will never need managed switches, much less Cisco branded stuff. TP-Link makes competent and reasonably priced dumb switches.

For the router, I used to run pfSense on a custom PC build (~$300 about 6 years ago) but I'm already familiar with enterprise router settings and found all the features I could want in a consumer grade Asus router. At the end of the day, port forwarding, WiFi and OpenVPN are everything I'd ever want it to do. I can offload any heavy lifting or advanced features to my server.

If you're not looking to be super fancy, here's a simple homelab setup:

  • Asus AC86U Router: $170.14
  • 24 port TP-Link Switch: $89.99
  • 8 port TP-Link Switch: $19.99
  • 2 Bay Synology Diskstation: $166.87
  • Dell PowerEdge R710 Server: $209.95

    You can swap up or down based on needs but the router does all the basic stuff most people will need it to do. The 24 port switch should be more than enough as the primary switch for most people. The 8 port switch is great for secondary locations. The diskstation can handle your backups and cloud storage and is a nice balance of convenience and price. The R710 server can handle Plex, NAS duties and probably some light duty VMs.

    The big add-on expense will be the hard drives, of course. You could probably get by shucking the 10TB easystore drives to save a bit.

    I use a custom built server (Xeon E3-1231 v3 @ 3.4GHz, 16 GB RAM, built around 2012 and upgraded the CPU a few years ago) and have never owned a R710 myself, so I can't say much on the actual limits of what you can do with it. That said, I'm suddenly really tempted to grab a R710 to use as network storage because I've reached the limit of my current server. The biggest weakness I see in the R710 is the CPU isn't too beefy but its still decent given the sheer number of (8)cores/(16)threads. Plex and less demanding game servers are probably the limit of what it can handle but it should easily handle a number of less demanding VMs.

    Anyways, as a starter setup, this should more than satisfy most people.
u/spectre234 · 7 pointsr/solar

Get this:

or the cheaper 5 port option if money is an issue. You do not want a hub, you want an unmanaged gigabit switch. Run a cable from your router to the switch and then you can run multiple LAN connections off this switch and your router will give out IP's just like it being plugged into the router.

u/MouSe05 · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

TRENDnet 8-Port Unmanaged Gigabit GREENnet Desktop Metal Housing Switch, TEG-S82g - $15 at checkout

u/RossIV · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Looks like the top module with the yellow cables is a patch panel of sorts. I think I see RJ45 Jacks facing down there. You would need a network switch with enough ports (example) to connect each of those ports, then one to your router. Once that side is done, you should be able to connect wired devices to the other end of any of those ports.

The blue cables at the bottom are wired for telephone, not data. The master line from the phone company goes in, then all of the other cables are connected to it in a hub fashion.

u/pogidaga · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

u/onenerdyguy · 6 pointsr/homelab

Eh, without knowing the router, I can't tell you that. The quickest and easiest, plus best performance, would be to just slap in a Gig switch, plug that into the actiontec, and plug your clients into the switch. Then the wired clients get Gig lan amongst themselves, and only drop to 10/100 when going wired-to-wireless or wired-to-internet.

Something like this would be fine for you

u/Berzerker7 · 6 pointsr/googlefiber

>What quality of router is the Google Fiber Network Box equivalent to?

A potato.

Seriously though, if you wanted a user-friendly router/AP combo, you can put anything behind a switch with proper VLAN tags.

Get one of these and follow the instructions here.

Then you can put any router you want behind it. I recommend the AC86u.

u/source4man · 6 pointsr/lightingdesign

What console are you using? Generally in a situation like this you want a small unmanaged network switch so that your router isn’t a single point of failure for show data. Netgear 5 port gigabit switches are like $30-40 and worth it.

So your map would be a wheel with three spokes: console, router, and node, all directly connected to your network switch.

And though it isn’t a big deal with a small network like this, it’s good to limit the number of choke points in your system. If you’re running everything directly through your router, you have to count on it to successfully and quickly relay all of that show data, and it might not be very good at that, many routers only have 100/mb/s network ports. Also if someone unplugs the router, your show will go down.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Lifetime Protection

u/ReallyObvious · 6 pointsr/techsupport

Dude. Go for the ethernet through power lines adapter first(btw this is more commonly called a powerline adapter).

This one has 500 mbps, which is considerably higher bandwidth than wifi. It will also give you lower latency, and a generally more stable connection. Take it from me, I have had some TERRIBLE experiences with wifi repeaters. Powerline ftw.

Or you could go all out and get the best of both worlds. Buy one of these, another router, and a powerline adapter. Then what you do is you set it up downstairs (where you normally have your router), and have it go, modem -> ethernet switch -> old router. Then plug one end of the powerline adapter into the switch.

Then plug in the powerline adapter into the wall upstairs where you want wifi. Plug in your new router to it. Set the SSID (the wifi name of your router), as the same name as the router you have downstairs. BAM. You now have STRONG wifi anywhere in the house. Devices will automatically connect to the router with the stronger signal. It will only appear as one wifi network on phones, tablets, etc.

u/MiracleWhippit · 6 pointsr/techsupport

You've got two real options:

First is a switch like this for like ten bucks

This technically puts you on whatever network the campus' router is putting you on. They could keep everything isolated on a per port basis... or they could have you networked to internal resources... or even to the entire dorm. You could probably tell by opening up network places and seeing if anything pops up.

Second is a router. I'd say get a wireless one and then you'd be able to share your own wireless SSID to your phones/tablets/laptops or whatever. For 30$ you can get this Asus one. I like Asus because it's pretty easy to configure their stuff and you're able to use it as an AP, Repeater, Router or a plain old switch if you want to.

I'd suggest a router so you'll have your own firewall and you'll be able to setup your own wireless network in your dorm.

u/ilikefastinternet · 6 pointsr/Stadia

TP-Link TL-SG1005D 10/100/1000Mbps Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Capacity, Plug and Play, Up to 70% Power Saving

Mods sorry if I can't post links like that.

u/dpeters11 · 6 pointsr/eero

The Netgears are rock solid.

I've got a 16 port plugged into my gateway eero, no issues whatsoever with anything plugged into it.

u/arychj · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I like Netgear's ProSafe stuff ( I've been using them for over five years, not a single problem.

u/ChOOsetheBLUEs · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Cheap 8-port netgear switch & 5-port.

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS308)

$17 - 5 port:

u/SoonAfterThen · 6 pointsr/udub

I don't know how to help with your contacting for one from the University, but if you do follow through with purchasing one from Amazon, I highly recommend this Netgear Switch. TP-Link makes a cheaper one, but if you don't mind $5 Netgear is a good safe bet. Metal housing is sturdy, you'll have this sucker for life.

Link here.

u/drydorn · 6 pointsr/techsupport

You need a small switch like this

u/EricGRIT09 · 6 pointsr/pcgaming

I'll backup the fact that you should get a switch, but make sure it is a gigabit switch. Something like this would work:

Make sure people know to bring Ethernet cables, or go to and get some cables.

People will undoubtedly forget to download some games/files/etc. before coming over and you really don't want 7 people downloading games and updates over that 50mbps connection when you just want to game. Either setup a share on your computer or if you have a second, spare, PC you can share files from that. I just use an FTP server but you can use Windows file sharing or something as well - those gigabit speeds via a new switch will come in handy here. Forget about using WiFi for anything related to this LAN, if at all possible.

Have fun!

u/Lickingmonitors · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Sorry for the stupid question. Whats the difference between the Edgerouter and a typical switch?

u/Dmelvin · 6 pointsr/homelab
u/braxxytaxi · 5 pointsr/techsupport

You might want to check if you can run multiple devices off your connection as they may only provide you with one IP address (similar to a normal home service from an ISP).

In this case you will need a router to connect up all your devices. Any standard home router will do the trick. I use an ASUS RT N66U - 4 wired gigabit ports, 802.11n Wi-Fi and it's nice and speedy with my 100mbit WAN connection. $129.99 @ Amazon.

However if your uni/college allows for multiple devices per room (ie, they provide you with multiple IP addresses) you will be able to get away with using an ethernet switch. As mentioned in other comments, opt a model with faster Gigabit ports as nowadays there is really no big price difference and the extra bandwidth could come in handy one day. A basic 5-port TP-Link Gigabit switch is $19.99 @ Amazon (or you can get an 8-port model for $24.99 @ Amazon).

Don't get a hub. I honestly haven't seen one on sale for years anyway, good luck trying to track one down!

u/imlose444 · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Just buy an unmanaged switch, you can find perfectly sufficient ones for home use for like 20$.

like this

u/IT_Guy_In_TN · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

My small setup has a WRT1900AC and an 8 Port Gigabit Unmanaged Switch.

Although not my perfect dream setup, this works amazingly well and I haven't had an issue yet. I've had this setup for around 6 months or so now. The switch isn't really necessary, but it's got everything plugged up that my TV uses - Apple TV, Fire TV (not sure why I have both lol), a 'fancy' blu-ray player that uses apps (that is rarely used), a media tower for all of my movies and tv shows that are, of course, legitimately obtained, and I also plug my laptop up to it when I want to play games online. It seems to work better than WiFi.

u/Cheech47 · 5 pointsr/qnap

First off, you linked to a switch and not a hub. There is a difference. Second, the only way you will see increased bandwidth due to connection aggregation is if you use LACP (802.3ad, or Dynamic Link Aggregation), which requires a managed switch to set up the port bundle on the other side so both sides can negotiate a LACP bond. The Netgear switch ain't it, you're after something like this. All other modes of port-trunking on the QNAP are meant for fault tolerance or load balancing, they will not aggregate bandwidth.

Understand, however, that port-trunking (QNAP's description for network aggregation) tends to break some other things like Linux Station. Plus, if all you're concerned about is increased throughput to your laptop, unless you're doing the same thing on your laptop all that extra bandwidth is going to be wasted anyway. There's something to be said if multiple devices are hitting it at once, but your description didn't specify that.

u/tosuzu · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you have a lot of port to spare why not consider this. Its a 8 port PoE injector that can convert 8 of your port to PoE.

u/gusgizmo · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

You could do 3 sets of these to throw data around the park, for 6 units total. 3 would be mounted on your main building:

Then 4 of these, 1 in the main building, 3 in the corners of the park:

If you still have dead spots to fill in, you would add in more Unifi Mesh AP's, and use the wireless uplink mode. If you do that I'd suggest swapping in a Mesh Pro to improve capacity for that cell.

The idea is to avoid using the Unifi wireless uplink mode as it cuts down the capacity of that cell. Uplinking multiple times really hurts a lot, especially with many hungry clients. Start with a solid foundation, and stretch out the installation only where necessary.

I'd top it all off with a USG and a cheap 8 port switch

You'll also want a cloudkey to manage the Unifi computers, or consider loading the controller software on a PC. And don't forget to buy 6 gigabit 24v PoE injectors for the nanostations, or 3 of these and a 4 port 24v gigabit midspan injector:

u/rainmakerraw · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Assuming you don't need PoE (as you didn't mention it), the two 'best' for your situation are likely the TP-Link SG108 or Netgear ProSafe GS108UK. Both are unmanaged 8 port gigabit switches with metal enclosures (for longevity and passive heat transfer).

They perform similarly - that is, very well with full 8x 2Gbps = 16Gbps backplane. Personally, although I do have the TP-Link due to a special offer I took advantage of, I'd actually recommend the Netgear.

The TP-Link has cheap no-name capacitors on its board, which will give up sooner rather than later (all caps dry out eventually). Amazingly the Netgear has no caps at all. Literally there's nothing to go wrong on the thing; by rights it should last practically forever. I'll be replacing my TP-Links with them when the time comes.

u/deebeeoh · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Uhm, none of the above? Yeah none of the above. It looks like you are looking to spend around $200-230 for your networking gear, which is fine, we can work with that!

  • Router: Ubiquiti Edgerouter X normally $50 but appears to be $60 right now. Get fucked I guess.
  • Switch: TP-Link switch $25
  • Access Point: Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Pro $130

    Total is around $210

    Now here is the thing with this setup. You will mount your access point on the ceiling as close to the center of your home as you can. It will give you much better coverage than the netgear setups, as well as a far more mature and stable access point. If in the future you decide you need better coverage still you can just buy a second one and hook it up, make sure to wire it back into the switch as well. The access point comes with a PoE injector so you only need to run a single line to it.

    You are buying gear for your business, buy business grade gear :) Especially because it costs you the same anyway.

u/pleasebantalon · 5 pointsr/UCI


Its $10 and its a plug and play. Dont waste your money on buying another router

u/mtciii · 5 pointsr/eero

I bought this and it works well (although I'm sure just about any switch would work well!).

There's also an 8-port version if you need the extra ports. I didn't. 🙂

u/aydiosmio · 5 pointsr/AskNetsec

> No, you can't drop it because you're passively monitoring it.

That's not true. The IPS can send RST packets to both endpoints and cause the connection to prematurely terminate, or ICMP unreachable for UDP.

You can also just use an older hub, but here are some affordable devices which support mirroring:

u/VonSwoopington · 5 pointsr/PFSENSE

Have you looked through this guide: ?

Replace AirVPN with your VPN provider. This guide assumes you also have a switch that is capable managing vlans. Add every device you want connected to VPN on a separate vlan.

If you don't have a vlan capable switch you can get a cheap tp-link one for $30 on amazon:

I have a quad port NIC on my pfsense box and it only has two physical connections: WAN and LAN. WAN is connected to my ISP and LAN is connected to my vlan capable switch. pfsense manages all the routing.

Also the guide talks about mitigating dnsleaks so follow the instructions very carefully.

u/windrip · 5 pointsr/skycoin

I recently built a four-board Orange PI DIY Skyminer in order to share a way to create a miner without the need to do any of the electrical wiring or flashing OpenWRT to a router. Hopefully this provides the community with some ideas on ways to easily setup a miner!

Here are the supplies used:

Orange PI Prime Boards

Using the Orange PI Prime boards makes sense for beginners since most of the community is using these boards and thus there are a lot of community members who can assist with issues when installing the software on Linux. Additionally, the Skycoin team will be releasing an image with the software preinstalled that can be easily flashed onto Orange PI boards.

Power Adapter (US Version)

Power Adapter (EU Version)

Micro SD Cards

You will want to use fast Class 10 Micro SD cards. 16 GB is what the official miners come with.

LAN Cables

You can use any short Cat 6 Ethernet cables. I used these from the parts list that has floated around and got some in both 15cm and 25cm lengths.


Any Orange PI cases would work but these are the ones I used.


This cheap switch can handle up to 7 devices, not including the incoming connection from the router. If you might expand to 8 boards in your Skyminer, use a 8+1 port switch like the one referenced in other parts lists.

Power-Adapter-Compatible Surge Protector

This surge protector can support up to 6 bulky power adapters at a time plus additional standard plugs.

GL-MT300N-V2 Mini Router (300 Mbps) with OpenWRT Preinstalled

This mini-router is limited to 300 Mbps but comes with OpenWRT preinstalled and is likely sufficient for home users in many parts of the world where bandwidth is capped at low speeds. In the long term, this bandwidth would not be sufficient for running a Skyminer attached to an antenna, but it gives you time to flash OpenWRT on a gigabit router while still participating in the Testnet via an OpenWRT router.

Power Adapter for Router

The MT300N requires a 5V/1A power supply, so most USB adapters should work.


Another reason to consider getting individual cases and power adapters is that FPGA miners and official miners with more than 8 boards are being worked on, and when they are released, a lot of the first-gen equipment will not be as useful for running Skywire. When that happens, I will probably use this initial equipment for other purposes or give some boards to friends/family for them to use for various purposes, and everything is in place from the start to make that transition very easy.

One downside to using the Orange PI boards is that they are in high demand due to the Skywire rollout, so backorders are common and it might be a month or more before you receive the boards. Personally, I feel there are several benefits to using the Orange PIs which I mentioned above, but you would probably receive other boards such as Raspberry PIs quicker. Other users have put together guides for those boards as well, such as this thread on Skywug, so you do have several options.

I hope this simple DIY setup helps the community!

u/CarterIV27 · 5 pointsr/homelab

I just use a very simple and cheap 8 port unmanaged gigabit netgear switch in my living room for this exact situation. I can’t see bandwidth being a problem considering you probably don’t use more than game console at once.

Edit: link

u/Irrat8ed · 5 pointsr/xboxone

This is what I have:

NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS108) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Li...

u/ske4za · 5 pointsr/homelab

Absolutely. I'm partial to metal Netgears like this one although I admit I only have experience with the 5 port versions.

u/Camote · 5 pointsr/regina

I'll save you the trouble. First, get yourself something like this.

When you set it up, use the port based VLAN area in the setup, and put Port 1 as VLAN ID 1000, tagged. Make Port 2 the same, then make a third port untagged with VLAN 1000. Then, connect Port 1 to your ONT Fibre box (the white thing), Port 2 to your Actiontec router, and Port 3 to your own router. Reset everything to grab IPs, and voila. The Max TV traffic will be routed through your Actiontec as normal, but internet traffic will go through your own router, get it's own IP, etc. If you don't have Max TV, you can skip the Actiontec steps altogether.

The big BUT here is that if you have any sort of TV or Internet issues Sasktel will not be able to help you unless you hook everything back up the way it was.

u/IbyFoReal · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I personally really like and enjoy the Ubiquiti 8 port switch:

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

u/c010rb1indusa · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You have a few options here.

  1. Put the Google Wifi system into bridge mode and let the Verizon gateway be the router. That would resolve the double NAT issue and put your wired and wireless devices on the same network. Your Verizon Gateway will still be your router/firewall, but your Google Wifi/Router will be used for WiFi. Also turn off WiFi radios on the Verizon Gateway so they don't interfere with each other. Note putting Google WiFi in bridge mode disables the Mesh features and turns the wireless APs into old school relays (which sucks), so if you are using multiple mesh APs you'll want to go with the next option. If you are just using a single unit, NBD.

  2. Use the Google Wifi as the primary router, directly connected from the ONT. Google Mesh Wifi APs have one switch port, but you can just plug in a cheap switch to expand it with this Simple & well-built Netgear Switch and plug in all your wired devices. However, the Verizon router is needed for Fios TV channel info and on-demand services, but it doesn't need to be your primary router, it just needs internet to feed info to the settop boxes over coax. Just plug the WAN port from the Verizon gateway into the switch, and just make sure that the Verizon gateway and the google WiFi system aren't using the same IP range (i.e both using 192.168.x.x) either change the IP range in Google Wifi or change it on the Verizon router, make one of them 10.x.x.x or 172.16.x.x, and there will be no conflicts with double NAT and your Fios settop boxes will work normally. Also disable the WiFi radios on the Verizon gateway. (Note if you use the Fios app for live TV and remote DVR, you can't do this with Google Wifi, you'll need to use Verizons gateway as your primary router unless you buy different hardware)
u/qupada42 · 4 pointsr/networking

Ubiquiti access point(s) and their "Cloud Key" controller for management/captive portal springs to mind.

Optionally, depending on how point-and-click you want the management for this deployment to be, also their "USG" router, and a US-8-60W PoE switch to complete the UniFi hardware set.

Amusingly, on (used as an example to get EU pricing), those four items together come to €499.34 (UAP-AC-Pro, US-8-60W, USG, UC-CK). How's that for ever so slightly under-budget?

It would need a small amount of work customising the captive portal if you want to do social media logins - I've never done that personally, but someone might know the details. Their forums would be a good place to start if you want to look for someone who has done that, or general advice.

The gateway is definitely optional, and any cheap PoE switch would be fine (or non-PoE, as the AP will also ship with a PoE injector). The controller software can be run on any old PC or VM with 1-2GB of RAM (although I personally like the cloud key for convenience), so you could get the cost down as low as just the AP if you've got a switch and a spare computer.

It also gives you a nice ability to expand with another AP in future if this takes off and you need extra capacity, and a nice management interface which is optionally accessible over the internet without being on-site, which might be nice if you have to help troubleshoot this remotely.

u/Reygle · 4 pointsr/techsupport

Simple. What you want is something like a 5-port Switch.


Edit: accidentally linked a 10/100Mb switch first time. You'll want Gigabit.

u/TheOtherSide5840 · 4 pointsr/computers

You need to purchase a small ethernet switch like this:

Plug all the cables (Roku, PC, connection to router) into the switch and you will be good to go.

u/havaloc · 4 pointsr/eero

I have a Netgear GS105 and it works fine. Amazon

u/wildcarde815 · 4 pointsr/Drexel

Get yourself a little switch like this. At least when I was there, they didn't care if you had a switch / hub inplace, they just got angry with routers. 1gpbs may be overkill if drexel isn't offering 1gb to the room, you can save 10 bucks or so with the 10/100 switch.

u/ixforres · 4 pointsr/AskUK

If you're over 3 floors you won't be able to do it wirelessly with a single AP.

What you can do is run a cable to the first floor, put a switch or access point with a switch integrated there, run a cable from that to the second floor, switch there, same again on the third floor. Switches aren't mind-blowingly expensive for okayish ones.

If I were you I'd at the very least run a cable to the second floor and put a second access point in. Something like this. I'd throw some switches in - if you want absolute cheap as chips and aren't doing >100Mbps, this will do fine.

Wires are the right way to do things. If you can avoid wireless, do so. Wireless is for phones and other highly mobile devices. Laptops at desks, desktops, consoles etc should all be connected by wires.

u/robotsneedhugs2 · 4 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Get a switch. Plug ethernet from basement into switch. Get two new ethernet cables and plug each into PC and Xbox.

u/rockker60 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

As a test, connect the computer straight to the line you ran just to verify you get 100 Mbps.

Once verified as 100Mbps, as others say you really need a switch. Plug all into the switch. You want WiFi - so assign the TP-Link router an ip, turn off DHCP, plug an ethernet wire from the switch to one of the yellow ports on the router.

This switch should work. This is the right way to do it and doesn't cost alot.

u/lunarsunrise · 4 pointsr/networking

USB hubs do something entirely different than Ethernet hubs do. There are no easy ways to use a USB hub to network computers.

Perhaps what you're looking for is an Ethernet switch instead?

It might be important, depending on how literally you meant "have the same packets sent out each port", to note that while hubs do literally do that, switches (as normally set up) do not.

A hub waits for one of the devices plugged into it to start transmitting; then it repeats exactly what it receives on each other port. For this reason, hubs are always half-duplex (data can only move in one direction at a time, from one source to every other device). (This causes some performance issues related related to collisions, sort of like when you and somebody else keep trying to talk and then stopping when you hear the other person.)

Switches, on the other hand, do something called MAC learning; when traffic arrives, they look at the sender (sort of like glancing at the upper-left corner of an envelope) and remember which of their ports that sender is connected to. Then, when they see traffic being sent to that device, they only have to send it out the one port. This process of receiving a packet and sending it only towards its destination is called forwarding.

You'll notice that there's a chicken-and-egg problem here: what do they do with a message (packet) if they haven't seen the destination address before? Well, they fall back to doing what hubs do: they send the packet out each other port, which is called flooding (as opposed to forwarding).

If you really need this behavior, there are nicer switches (on the order of $200 or $300) that would let you either disable MAC learning (thus always flooding every packet, similar to what a hub would do).

If you can be more specific about exactly what you're trying to achieve, maybe we can be more helpful!

u/dieselfrog · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

Great. Now detail how you built the dashboard - GitHub links are welcomed. :)

I would also recommend this for people that want a cleaner look and can use POE over plain ol' CAT6 in the wall:

EDIT: Oops, i meant this link instead:

The other one is one that ended up not using.

u/piranhas_really · 4 pointsr/PS4

My solution to the PS4's lackluster wireless card is one of these and about 100ft of Cat6 cable.

u/michrech · 4 pointsr/homelab

This is the one I'm using -- works great. :)

u/Tesla56 · 4 pointsr/homelab

Thanks! It's a TP-Link TL-SG108 unmamaged 8 port gigabit switch ( ) it's a fairly good cheap gigabit switch. I have a few unmanaged gigabit switches from different companies and I've found them to all be fairly similar I usually just go for whatever recognisable brand is the cheapest on Amazon at the time

u/bonoboho · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

a lot of /u/mz-s s information is incorrect.

first, 5e will do gigabit all day, every day. though price isnt a significant factor between 6a and 5e, 5e is going to be less expensive and easier to terminate. 6a is primarily used for 10GigE in datacenters, and you are unlikely to see any benefit from it in your home.

second, to set up multiple devices you need one run for gigabit (over 5e) to all of them. set up a cheap gigabit switch that /u/arizonalad suggests (should be <40$, ex: in your media center and you can provide data to basically as many devices as youd like.

none of the devices you mentioned require anything more than gigabit (most of them would be perfectly happy with 100mbit).

one of OPs points is right - dont run only what you need. run at least one more, with an accompanying string if possible. youre not likely to need it, but youd rather have it than not.

u/rowdyllama · 4 pointsr/homelab

This switch:

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG108)

u/clocks212 · 4 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

Please just buy one of these for $18 and avoid the hassle

My system is

Modem -> Google Wifi -> switch - > (multiple computers/tv/game systems) -> switch -> (more computers) -> Google Wifi puck #2

And this works great

u/mcez322 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE Desktop Switch with 4-PoE Ports (TL-SG1008P)

Been sitting up in my attic (yeesh) for over a year powering 4 cameras and also 3 drops with no problems at all. Unmanaged, though.

u/mercenary_sysadmin · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd go Orbi if I were going mesh... but if you have wired backhaul, you should consider saving yourself some money and just deploying wired access points instead.

Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lite have been the industry mainstay for quite some time, and they work great. However, you really need to deploy a software controller (Unifi) to manage them properly, and that needs to be backed up regularly (or you'll lose control of them and have to paperclip reset them and set them up from scratch).

If that's more than you want to deal with, TP-Link's EAP-225 is both less expensive than the UAP-AC-Lite and fully-featured without need for a controller. If you want a controller, TP-Link also offers one - called Omada - which is free as in beer and works very well, but you don't have to; if you just want to set each AP up individually in a simple web browser, you can.

A pair of EAP-225s will run you around $115 or so total.

The thing you will be missing if you go with EAP-225s (or Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lite) is the wired connection for local devices, but that's really not a big deal - the answer there, since you have a wired connection for the AP in the first place, is just to run a cheap desktop switch behind the AP. You can get an 8-port gigabit unmanaged switch for well under $50 (under $20, if you're shopping online). Plug the switch into the wall, plug the AP and your devices into the switch, done. If you want to spend a touch more money, consider a PoE switch instead; for $60 you can get an 8-port switch with power over ethernet, which will save you from needing to use a power supply for your access point - it'll get its power directly over the ethernet cable itself, coming from that switch.

u/chazchaz101 · 4 pointsr/networking

That switch probably doesn't support VLANs, but if you're looking for something small with basic VLAN support these are decent:

u/ItsAFineWorld · 4 pointsr/PFSENSE

Get one of these. 30 bucks and does basic vlan and some other nifty things. Definitely not "enterprise" features, more like SOHO, but enough to get you started setting up a more robust network.

u/kakeyi · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Taking into account the $5 discount and If you have Amazon Prime or Newegg Premier, the metal case version of this switch is "on sale" for $29.99, so only $5 more than this one.
Amazon GS308
Newegg GS308

u/sc302 · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

honestly you have a 5506 and you don't have a switch to attach to it? What is an unmanaged switch going to cost you that would have the same amount of ports that the 5506 is going to provide you, $25? What is 25 bux when you have already invested 400 or so into a firewall, you time researching and configuring will be worth more than that $25 switch. can't do etherchannel unless you have a switch/device on the other end that also supports etherchannel/lacp.

u/cosmicosmo4 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Don't worry about the number of ports on the router. You should get a switch to provide the ethernet ports that you need. A perfectly good 8-port gigabit switch is like $20. example

For the router and APs, in your budget, you could get a Unifi security gateway ($140) and 2 Unifi UAP-AC-Lites ($70 each). That would be a super capable and very easy to manage set up. It's possible to go cheaper on the router, like using a EdgeRouter-X ($60) instead of the USG, which is perfectly capable for home use, but not as smooth to configure as the Unifi line.

u/wolffstarr · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is going to be very dependent on how deep into the weeds you want to be getting with your setup. We've got one key, being "needs to do gigabit internet". Another is you seem to be looking for gigabit/AC wireless. You also mention needing an AP on the far side of the house.

Do you expect that the router will have wifi capabilities on it's own? Some of the options that I know will handle gigabit throughput don't have built-in wireless.

The "easy" answer - meaning, if you just want good stuff that works well enough and don't want to learn all there is to know about networking before you get your LAN running - is to go with Ubiquiti gear. An EdgeRouter Lite will do gigabit for your router (as long as you don't get fancy, like trying to do QoS/rate shaping) for about $90.

You would then need at least one AP to handle the wireless, for which a UAP-AC-Lite would probably work okay - that's about $80.

For getting the ball rolling, just about any 8 port "dumb" switch would do, but you can get a TP-Link TL-SG108 gigabit switch for $30 on Amazon right now. You'd almost certainly want to replace that eventually, but it won't be useless and it's a good price.

Eventually you could look at getting a 16 port Ubiquiti switch and another AP or two if you have a large area to cover, and there's options for unified configuration setups I believe.

If you really want to get snazzy, spring for the Unifi Security Gateway which is the same hardware as the EdgeRouter Lite, but works with the Unifi controller software. Get that, as many APs as you need, and a Unifi switch and you can (eventually) run a VM for your Unifi controller to configure all of it through one, locally controlled web page.

u/Curtofthehorde · 3 pointsr/Langamers

A switch and some cheap color coded cables! Made network setup a breeze.

Folding tables/chairs make setup and breakdown easy. Set up an extra for snacks/drinks.

Put a small cheap waste basket at each table to keep tables clean and clear.

Velcro Strips keep cables tidy at the lan or the battlestation as well as keeping them from tangling in your bag.

u/ToughConversation · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

A switch is basically a port splitter. A decent dumb switch can be had for between $10-30 for 5 port options (depending on what you're looking for and if you get a good deal) and 15-35 for an 8 port version.

8 ports for 22 if you don't want to search. It won't do PoE but you might not need that.

At a high level, plug any free port on the ERX into the switch and the switch will then "give" the ERX more ports - though two devices, both attached to the switch don't necessarily need to push (most of their) data to the router since there'd be a direct path.

u/Zahne1977 · 3 pointsr/SmartThings

Nope! They use Zigbee. You can find one of the threads with handlers and pairing instructions here. Although poke around a bit to make sure it's the most current, it's been a while since I loaded my handlers.

In several months I haven't seen any of my Xiaomi door sensors or motion detectors drop. I have seen 1 of my 2 Magic Cube's drop, however I think that may have been during a SmartThings outage and/or my doing.

If you get them connected and you do experience dropping, there's a good chance you may need to extend your Zigbee network with a repeater. The Iris Smart Plug works really well.

Also, you can add more LAN ports to your Google WiFi. Just purchase a 10/100/1000 Gigabit Switch and connect any port to any of the LAN ports on your Google WiFi. Move your Hue, ST or Energenie over to the switch and you'll have extra space.

Here is an example of a small cheap switch that would work well.

u/lyoko37 · 3 pointsr/eero

I'd recommend getting an unmanaged switch because you still want the eero to be the brains.

This one works great:

u/captain_dylan_hunt · 3 pointsr/Ring

I have about 20 of these scattered over 3 offices in 3 states. no issues

Tplink 8port-4 port POE 1gig switch

u/concussion962 · 3 pointsr/homelab

There is a 16 port Netgear "Managed Plus" with POE going for ~45% off that supports 802.3af and up to 15 watts/port that I was tempted by (but out of my personal blow money limit for the month), and a TP-Link 8 Port w/ 4 POE Unmanaged that is going on sale at 10:45 that I am very tempted by due to the plans to upgrade the network to Ubiquiti AC Pros.

Of course, the $59.93 price is only like $10 more than the 5 port w/ 4 POE switches are regularly...

u/tatanka01 · 3 pointsr/BlueIris

If you can plug both the PC and the camera into the router, that would be ideal. PoE injector will work for the power, or ideally, get a PoE switch to provide the power and connect both (PC and cam) to the switch, then switch to router. Example of cheap PoE switch. I run everything off PoE switches here - it just works.

u/quimby15 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/Thorus08 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You need a switch. A "dumb" one will do. Feed the switch from that one port on the wall. Plug your devices into the switch. Just make sure whatever is on the other end of that wall port is still connected to a modem/router/switch.

Something like this:(sorry for the long link)

u/d3photo · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

Use this in the middle:

Cheap, durable, programmable (I believe I grabbed the right on). I usually use the GS-108P and GS-110TP so the smaller ones without power are pretty foreign to me.

u/SteveLeo-Pard · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

Pretty much any entry level managed switch will do.

TPlink, netgear, and trendnet all have entry level web managed switches that do VLANs for around ~30.

u/kevank · 3 pointsr/AskTechnology

The way I would solve this is with a POE powered switch. Something like this one:

And a POE injector like this one:

You can use the switch where ever you like and use the POE injector to power it from one of the cables on the "remote" end where it is located near a power source.

If you need more information, let me know.

u/CollateralFortune · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is the one people usually recommend for cheap if just basic 802.1q is needed.

u/ryeseisi · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

So, your hardware looks good. As to your intended usage:

Don't bridge NICs to create a switch. The switching will be done in CPU instead of on an ASIC and is not a great idea (though it is *possible*). Get yourself a managed or smart switch and call it a day. You can pick up a TP-Link SG-108E for about $40. Make sure whatever switch you choose supports 802.1q VLANs. This necessarily implies a smart or managed switch.

WiFi support on pfSense is abysmal, because FreeBSD's driver support for WiFi chipsets is abysmal. This is not going to change any time soon. You could go out of your way to find a chipset that is supported, or you could spend the $80 on a UAP-AC-Lite, be done with it, and not worry about it any more for years to come. A separate AP is going to outperform onboard WiFi all day long and is much less of a headache.

You're on the right track and everything you want to do with regards to VLANs, ACLs, etc. that box can do for years to come. But you should really split off switching and wireless to dedicated devices, just for the sake of less headache and more performance.

EDIT: Here is a thread from just a couple months ago that implies that the onboard WiFi chipset on your chosen board is not (yet) supported on FreeBSD. The FreeBSD iwm module manpage shows previous versions of this chipset *are* supported, so support for your chipset may come in the future. But that could be months or years away.

u/IanPPK · 3 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

That depends. I have a TP-Link managed home switch that is so particular that it requires the computer accessing the management console to be on the same subnet and gateway block as the device. Mind you that you can change the subnet and gateway address on the switch using the windows application without accessing the management console directly, so it would make sense to be able to be able to access the console without having to meet those requirements. Once I can actually access the console, though, the options are quite nice, ranging from loop protection and QoS to MTU vLANs.

u/icanrememberthisone · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

Perfect. That's actually the one I meant to link, but forgot. I am thinking the 8 port version.

Looks like TP-Link could save me a few bucks.

u/dakoellis · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

/u/Qui_Gon_Gin listen to this guy. I have my network setup exactly like this. You'll have to learn about VLANS to do it, but you can get a managed switch like this, or you could get a more robust one like this or like this.

u/EvolvedBacteria · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ah, I see, but still there is managed version for just $7 more.

u/washu_k · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> Are you saying that I need a piece of hardware called a switch that connects to that box ?

Yes. A switch connects multiple Ethernet devices together in one network.

> Sorry man lol can you ELI5? Any online tutorials?

For a basic switch there really isn't much to explain, they are literally plug and play. You connect all your Ethernet cables, connect the power cable and that's it. As long as one of the cables connects to your router it will work. Undamaged or "dumb" switches have no configuration.

Here is an example: You can get more or less ports as you need depending on how many cables you have.

The potential issue is not the switch but if your cables are connected properly. Often network cables are wired for phone lines which will not work without fixing them. If you can post a picture of your box in the basement we can tell you if they are connected correctly.

u/bobadad23 · 3 pointsr/homelab

K.I.S.S. Is my motto. If you dont need anything more than basic switch functionality your best bet is a plug and play non-managed switch. You can get a nice Netgear 8-port off Amazon for $19.99.


u/sebweyn · 3 pointsr/Hue

Bluetooth is likely less reliable and slower than WiFi. I don’t know how apps would work but they’re probably more limited as well (e.g. no automations).

If it’s about the Ethernet port you should probably get an Ethernet switch. This one isn’t the cheapest but I know it works well.

u/omeganon · 3 pointsr/xboxone

This guy gave terrible advice. You're already behind a router and adding another is going to mess up your NAT. If the UNI allows you to have multiple devices on the network then you just need to buy a cheap switch. I highly recommend

u/Iiaeze · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can add more switches. Get a unnmanaged gigabit switch and that's basically all you need. This is what I have running at my friend's place and I set it up about 2 years ago with no complaints since.

I'm not sure how cheap you can really go with these, I see under 20 options on Amazon - maybe someone else can chime in?

u/talones · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Dont get a powerline adapter, just go from the Router into the wall, then patch that line into a 5 port gigabit switch, like a netgear or something. Then you can patch the rest of the wall RJ-45's to the switch.

edit: This is what you want... Netgear

u/Mighty72 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Just pull a network cabel from your router to your counter. Buy a small 5 port switch and plug that cable and the two cables from that computer and CCmachine into that switch. Your cable can be up to 300ft long.

u/longjohnsilver30 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yea you got it. The modem gives internet and that connects to the USG which is a firewall/router. From there you connect the switch into the USG. Then the switch into the AC Pro. And if you have other wired devices they connect to the switch.

Modem --> USG --> Switch --> AC Pro

I would recommend you get an unmanaged switch since it seems you may not need the extra options of a managed switch

u/imadethis2014 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

CAT5e splitters will only link two devices as 10/100Mbps

If your computer is set, or trying to negotiate at 1000Mbps, it will not work - you can try to force it to 100Mbps in the settings.

Better than a CAT5e splitter is to buy a cheap switch...
This is the correct way to get more Ethernet ports out of one run...

"I'm about ready to cry, jack off, cry, and go to sleep" ...well that's might be fun, but it's not going to help the situation any.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/techsupport

This is product I would recommend. Plug your Ethernet cable into the working wall jack, and then the other end into port 1 on the switch. You can now connect 4 more devices to the remaining ports on the switch.

u/yoshi_bro · 3 pointsr/emu

Yes. I haven't heard of many problems with stealing. In terms of bringing your own router, depending on how you set up your room you might not need one. I bought an Ethernet switch for 10 bucks and could connect to 4 things (mine was set up to my roku, ps3, ps4, and computer). That way is cheaper than a router and it gets the job done. The internet is pretty dang good actually.

The one I got is $9.95 on Amazon

TP-Link 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D)

u/a_magic_wizard · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/tajwk · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

Pick up a cheap network switch and you only need to run one long cable

u/Chelsea182 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Power line adapters and a switch. You would not have to run any cables through your house. The power line adapter uses your existing electrical wiring to transfer data. You then use a switch to plug all your devices into.

Edit spelling

u/Aytrx · 3 pointsr/CoDCompetitive

An ethernet desktop switch. I have this one, so you could buy 2 of those or buy one bigger one.(16 port one). The 8 port switch wouldn't work because there would be 8 players but one of the ports must be used for the internet connection from your router or modem. LAN stand for Local Area Network, so that means you all need to be connected to the same ip.

u/cexshun · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I don't have a pic, but there are several like mine.

3d printed Pi stack

3d printed Anker stack(compatible with above stack)

Tiny switch 5V

Anker USB power brick

Then just a handful of 1ft ethernet cables and 1ft USB cables. You can buy the USB to Barrel power cable for the switch, or if you are comfortable with a soldering iron, make one yourself.

u/chubbysumo · 3 pointsr/PleX

> I see there are very high priced switches and some for 50 dollars.

depends on how many wired devices you have. If you only have 5 wired devices, here is a 5 port switch for $15. if you have more than 4 devices, get an 8 port. if you have more than 7 devices, get a 16 port, ect.

>What should I look for my usage ?

a gigabit switch is a gigabit switch. What you are looking to do is remove the switching duty from your router, and let your router be a router and wifi access point only.

>Also how should i setup the wiring between the router, modem and switch ?

Leave the modem and router as you have them, and then just run a lan cable to the switch, and plug everything that is plugged into the router(except the modem) into the switch. It should go Modem>router>switch. This way, traffic from your server will stay on the switch, and will not clog up the routers processor.

u/jbourne0129 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Fuck I did not realize that either. The thing says 300mb/s and no gigabit ports and here I am thinking "well I definitely don't need 1000gb/s"

So instead of buying a new $100 router with gigabit ports, can I just get something like this to go between my modem and router so I can still get over 100mb/s wired to my computer and wifi everywhere else. Like Modem>gigabit switch/hub > router with my computer plugged into the switch/hub ?

u/ccobb123 · 3 pointsr/wireless

I really hope you're joking.

If you're not, buy this.

TP-LINK TL-SG1005D 10/100/1000Mbps 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Capacity

u/drakofrost · 3 pointsr/xboxone
u/steppingstone01 · 3 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

I wouldn't bother trying to reconfigure an old router. That could cause you more problems than you need. This is the switch that I got. They aren't very expensive.

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D)

u/ndboost · 3 pointsr/freenas

Literally, $20... here. Or for managed $29.99 here. TP-Link software is shit, but it works fine for the money. I run an 8 port managed variant in my home-office with VLANs and trunks and everything.

u/tielknight · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

And a Gigabit 5-port switch is $5.25 as well

u/lemskroob · 3 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

If you want to hardwire multiple devices to the puck, you just need a simple gigabit switch. Cheap, under $20. like this one.

Its basically like a USB Hub, if you remember those.

u/SKRUZO · 3 pointsr/homelab

Something like this sounds like it'd fit your needs based on your other comments.

Plug the long white Ethernet cable you ran to your room into that, and then plug all of your other devices into the other ports.

u/sushifishpirate · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Just buy an inexpensive 5 port switch like this Netgear to get yourself going. You still need to use the poe injector for the AP.

u/42_youre_welcome · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you can't run a line from the Ethernet cable in the basement to your game room, a separate router would be the best bet. Any dual band ac router will work. You can pick one up for about $60.

If you can, the best solution would be to use a mini switch to connect to the line in the basement and then run a line to the game room.

u/QuadTechy88 · 3 pointsr/htpc

Might I suggest a more prosummer solution.

Look at ubiquiti gear. It’s what I run at my home and we deploy there access points and switches at over 200 customers. They are excellent for the price

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG)

8 port Poe switch
Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

Access point
Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US)

These products will allow you to make sure your wireless network is on something with the least interference, you can also band steer clients to use the less congested 5ghz band all on the same wireless network. Instead of having to make a separate one 2.4 and 5. Which is what most all in one home devices do.

This will over all be a much more flexible system as well. Find an area that doesn’t have good WiFi coverage. Run a cable and add an AP there, or they can even mesh and do it with out a cable.

u/phys_teacher · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

The USG does not operate like a switch - LAN 1 and 2 are treated as completely separate networks, so devices on each will not be able to see each other without some fancy firewall rules. I would recommend some sort of switch instead, not necessarily one from Ubiquiti. The benefit of the Unifi switch is that it is managed (can be programmed) with power to 4 devices. A regular switch will be fine too, as long as you use the PoE injectors that come with the APs.

Here's the switch I have:

Any of these would work - some provide power, and I'd recommend a 1000 Gbps switch:

A controller is only needed if you want to make any changes to your network, such as the WiFi name or passwords, or if you want to view some of the network statistics. It is also used to run the guest networking portal.

You can use the free controller download if you only plan on making the initial configuration and don't want anything else. If you plan on a guest network, statistics, or make changes often, a cloud key would be good to have.

u/n_nick · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 |
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 |
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 |
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 |
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 |
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 |
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 |
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 |
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 |
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 |
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 |
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 |
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 |
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 |
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 |
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 |
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 |
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 |
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 |
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 |
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 |
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 |
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 |
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 |
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 |
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 |
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 |
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 |
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 |
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 |
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 |
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 |
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 |
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 |
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 |
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 |
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 |
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 |
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 |
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 |
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 |
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 |
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 |
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 |
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 |
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 |
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 |
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 |
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 |
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 |
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 |
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 |
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |

u/Bilbo_Fraggins · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

If all those devices are on the same network, ERL and a $20 gig switch will do you. Bridging also disables offload, so in fact you'd need a separate switch. In the ERL all ports are for different networks.

Edit: If your wireless router is close by and has gig switch ports, you can probably even just use that as your switch. Disable DHCP server on the wireless router and plug from ERL to any LAN port, and wireless router is an AP/switch. More detailed directions.

u/heisenbergerwcheese · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

here a $15 5-port gig switch...i have around a dozen of these running strong for 8+ years...plug the current cable into this, and run 2 new ones to your PC & PS4

u/damacu · 3 pointsr/googlefiber

There's a lot to unravel here. I'm on mobile at the moment so I'll edit this later and give you a proper response. In brief, however, a wired connection is preferable to WiFi.

*edit: The 100mbit connection is likely in regards to passing the network signal over coax. As in, Ethernet From the Network Box (gigabit) to the Storage Box. Then the Storage Box outputs a LAN (multicast) signal over the coaxial connection and into the existing coax "network" in you home. Your various TV boxes pick up this signal and pull an IP. This leave the ethernet port on the back of the TV Box free to use as a switched bridge.

The 100mbps limitation is due to the the coaxial signal being relatively weak. The engineers behind this design probably know what they're doing when tuning the coax signal in such a way to guarantee a 100mbps handshake.

If for instance you had an ethernet (Cat5e or Cat6) cable running from the Network Box to the TV Box, you'd be delivering 1000mbps (1gbps) to the TV Box, which is really a waste. 100mbps is more than sufficient for live video transmission. The problem here is that it would tie up the ethernet on that TV Box and you wouldn't be able to connect to it. This model is also not as common, because fewer people have a fully networked home.

The best solution is to have an ethernet cable run from you Network Box to your TV Box. Then you put in your own small gigabit switch and run network cables into your TV Box and then into your gaming console.

u/bremen44 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have one of these

and it works great. Just plug a cable into one of the port from your router and you're done.

u/jpwinkis · 3 pointsr/lanparty 8 port Gig router for about $30 would be good to get. If your at 8 people and have internet you will need another switch and someone can't be on gig.

u/nurban512 · 3 pointsr/homelab

Copying files like movies and vhds around my network through a 100mbps switch I was getting like 8-9MB/s. Replaced my switch with a cheap full gigabit one and now I get around 80-90MB/s. To move a 5GB movie that's the difference between 1 minute and 10 minutes. In my case it was worth it but I guess if you are only streaming Netflix and surfing the web you won't saturate the 100mbps link.

u/gengas · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I ran CAT5e to the three bedrooms and to the entertainment center wall. One drop in the two small bedrooms, two drops to the master bedroom, and two drops to the entertainment center.

I terminated the rooms to Cable Matters keystones.
I'm using an Asus RT-N56U wireless router and a Trendnet TEG-S80g 8port gigabit switch with an Intellinet 12 port patch panel.
It's patched together with cable matters 3ft patch cables.
I have fiber internet service(no modem needed).

I had anticipated another cable run for a Ubiquity WAP, but after I tested the signal coverage from the Asus router it was not needed(full coverage everywhere in the house).

u/v-_-v · 3 pointsr/techsupport

This is a better solution

I say that because it is a gigabit switch instead of a fast ethernet, meaning it is 10 times faster, so data transfer will be quicker.

With like ~$7 bucks more you get 3 more ports, each one gig speed. This should hold you over for years to come.

If your router has enough "switch" ports, then you can use it just fine, and no need to hook it up to the internet. Be careful that normally on Routers 1 port is labeled WAN, and you should not connect any computer to that port (it is used for the internet modem, if a pc is hooked into that, it will not communicate with your other comps).

A stand alone switch is generally recommended because it is cheap, and you won't need to disconnect your router and lose internet connectivity.

Lastly, utterly disregard what Turpix said about what a switch does, and about a rack server with a network domain, as it is simply not needed.

u/ImASpaceEngineer · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I know you're probably looking for an unmanaged switch, but... just in case... I love my GS108T

(The "Managed Pro" version has a web-interface and CLI, which I prefer. As opposed to the "Managed Plus" which can only be configured via GUI client running on your PC)

It comes in a steel enclosure, fanless, I have 5 and have not had any die over several years of operation.

u/needanacc0unt · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Most likely just the blue/white blue pair will be connected if you only have one phone line(it could be anything, but I think the blue pair is most common). You can replace the wall plates with a keystone plate and punch a cat 5 block onto the existing cable.

On the other end you will need to have something connected to it, but you could get creative if you don't want to have the router/modem in the closet near the existing box.

What I mean is you can plug the router into any of those ports in any room, and then terminate all of those lines in the box with an RJ45 plug and add a switch in the box.

But wait? There's no power in there! Precisely! You can get a TP link PoE injector (router side) and a Netgear switch with a "PD" port which will be powered by the 12v PoE voltage.

u/ZCPM3 · 3 pointsr/synology

I like the Netgear GS-108Tv2 for this. $77, 8 ports, lifetime warranty and even capable of being powered by PoE.

What's on the other end of your Syno that you're testing throughput to? Unless both sides can do LACP there won't be an appreciable difference.

u/redbaron78 · 3 pointsr/networking

I've had one of these in my home lab for quite a while and it gets the job done. It supports LACP.

u/ragingcomputer · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I'm a really big fan of Hikvision cameras. They feel really solid for the price and image quality is very good. I'm looking pretty hard at an Amcrest for my next cam. They're getting decent reviews for the price too.

If you do get a Hikvision, look closely at whether the seller is an authorized distributor. I've gotten a grey-market camera and it was ok, but for a few $ more you can also get support and english firmware updates.

For myself, I have one of these in my garage

I have one of these on my front porch.

I have one of these powering them both NETGEAR ProSAFE FS108PNA

An unfinished basement and vinyl siding makes mounting exterior cams more tolerable.

For setup / testing, I keep one of these around TP-LINK Gigabit PoE Injector TL-PoE150S

I've also installed many more cameras for friends and family.

One 16 cam setup used a dedicated Hikvision DVR unit, DS-7716NI-SP/16-2TB. It has the PoE switch built in. Setup was pretty quick and he's still really happy with it. Runtime on a 1500VA UPS is pretty respectable too.

  • 1x DS-2CD2132F-I-4MM
  • 10x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM
  • 1x DS-2CD2232-I5-4MM
  • 4x DS-2CD2112F-I-2.8MM

    I've got a buddy with 8x DS-2CD2032-I-4MM powered by a Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector. He's having pretty good luck with that setup.

    At work we install mostly Axis cameras, but we're trying 24 Avigilon cameras for one section of student housing. They seem pretty well built too. This is a mostly positive post, the only cameras I HATE are made by Arecont Vision.

    If you haven't decided on software, I've got an opinion on that too.

    I'm running Milestone XProtect Go on a spare PC. It's free for up to 8 cameras, up to 5 days of retention, no charge for the clients. I am familiar since I manage an XProtect Enterprise install at work, but it can be a pain to set up at first.

    I've also played with Blue Iris and ZoneMinder. I think Blue Iris is the way to go for most folk.
u/agoia · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

We use TP-Link metal cased switches for our smaller stuff and they work just fine and are pretty cheap.

u/PythonTech · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Kudos on thinking ahead on this kind of stuff.

It's a more "advanced" router / firewall but the Mikrotik equipment is very powerful, especially for how much it costs. It's not a router common in a home setting, but lots of ISP's use the higher end models for the backbone of their networks.

This will outperform any off the shelf router you can buy at the stores:

Since you have a month before the event this would give you time to get familiar with the router and make any changes you need.

The router doesn't have wireless, but my suggestion is to always use a separate AP for wireless anyways. Get a Unifi AP::

Now your thinking "I said there's going to be 6-8 people, and that router only has 4 lan ports!" Correct, you should use a switch:

The main benefit of running all these things separate from each other is you don't have to have them central to your gaming. The router can stay with the modem and just 1 cable has to run out to the switch.

Now if you are going to do this more often or want higher end gear, let me know and i'll offer up a different set of suggestions.

u/SumoSizeIt · 3 pointsr/applehelp

I agree with getting a gigabit one (it used to be a premium option, but these days it's so cheap to get so you might as well spend an extra pound or two). That said, that particular netgear is kind of costly for what you get. You could just as well get this 8 port gigabit netgear for 21 GBP or this 8 port gigabit TP-Link model for 22 (18 if you get the plastic version).

u/stealer0517 · 3 pointsr/homelab

if you just need more ports just get this.

full gigabit (vs 10/100 on the 3560s), 8 ports which is plenty for what most people do, doesn't use a fuck load of power, and it's like ~23 after shipping

u/b1g_bake · 3 pointsr/homeassistant

that is spot on your issue, two different subnets. You need to let one or the other device be "master" for simpler terms.


see if you can put the ISP modem/router combo into something called bridge mode. google your ISP and the model number of the unit along with "bridge mode" to get more detailed instructions. This will basically neuter the routing and DHCP that the ISP unit it trying to do right now. It should only get a WAN IP address from your ISP and pass that on to your Asus router. Now you just make sure that your Asus router is set to DHCP for the WAN. Now all clients will get their addresses from the Asus and will be on the same subnet.


You may need to unplug any devices from the ISP device and plug them into the Asus for them to work. If you don't have enough ports just pick up a cheap 8 port switch to take care of your wired clients.

u/_Beet · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Agree with u/RedSyringe, the powerline adaptors will be the bottleneck. If you want the best setup for gaming replace the powerline adaptors with cable if possible.


u/ILikePokemonGo101 · 2 pointsr/eero

Is it unstable? Or is just a bit lower than before. Also having it go through the modem from Fios may add latency, especially only about 4-6 miliseconds. Cheap switches work wonders. The CEO recommended this here. I also read that it may take up to 24-48 hours to learn its surroundings best.


I'd honestly recommend replacing the Fios solution entirely if possible. Hooking up directly to a ONT and see if that yields the performance you were looking for? I'd honestly call Eero. One of the best support lines out there with tons of knowledge about everything networking and wifi.

u/Goofmobber · 2 pointsr/lanparty

Honestly, I would just go gigabit. If you're going to be transferring stuff between computers (think Steam backups) 100mbps converts to about 12 mb/s, whereas Gigabit (1000mbps) is about 10 times faster.

A few other people have linked various switches in this thread, haven't seen this one mentioned yet though.

u/BrownAndCony · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Hmmm that's good to know. I just use a regular switch from Amazon:

TP-Link TL-SG1008D 10/100/1000Mbps 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Switching Capacity

Any idea of what I might need to do to use my Philips hue on this switch?

u/MagnusRune · 2 pointsr/gaming

these are the ones i have.

with one of these as well (the 8 port v6 one)

so my PC, xbone, 360, PS4, TV, laptop have ethernet cables going into the multi-ethernet device, it then has 1 cable into the power plug, then in living room there is the other one, which has 1 cable to the main hub. both power things are in power extension blocks as well.. i think the one in my room is on a block, powered from a block, then the wall..

u/tatiwtr · 2 pointsr/SBU

If you already have one, great, otherwise I would recommend a 1gbps switch for extended usefulness.

u/Mk19mod3 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You may need a small switch if you don’t have any free ports or don’t have easy access to your wireless router.

If you are going to use RDP you can just leave the ‘B’ machine in another room.

Under $20 switch - TRENDnet 5-Port Unmanaged Gigabit GREENnet Desktop Metal Housing Switch, 10 Gbps Switching Fabric, Lifetime Protection, TEG-S50g

u/NRX7 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

TRENDnet Green series; I prefer the all metal cases. I have several and they have been running for 5+ years without issue.

u/GTR128 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Here are a few options. Any basic gigabit switch should be fine. I am not sure how many ports you want, but all of the options come in different versions with different number of ports.

u/NA_Raptortilla · 2 pointsr/gaming

I'd tell you to deactivate DHCP on one of the two, that's what causing your problem. Even better would be to replace it with an unmanaged switch.

u/Slyfox12 · 2 pointsr/eero

I use TrendNet GREENnet 8 port gigabit switch. Found it on sale for under $20 recently. Had it’s 5 port version earlier.. both are solid buys.

u/BJWTech · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

1 - Yes

2 - I would use two lite's.

3 - Yes, but like a smart switch supporting vlans and multiple SSIDS

4 - This.

5 - Yes. They are documented well.

u/leonmich · 2 pointsr/synology

I use an Asus RT-AC66U for router. If you want a managed switch for LAG use a NetGear GS108T; that's what I'm using and it works great.

u/spychipper · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

As stated elsewhere you will need a managed switch.

If you are on a budget my go-to for over a decade has been various revisions of the Netgear GS-108t

If you want ease of use these days I would go with Ubiquiti. for home use. The linked switch is 2x the cost of the Netgear, but provides Power Over Ethernet (PoE) which allows you to use Ubiquiti's matching Access Points at some point in the future, both of which can be managed from the same interface. Note that the AP linked to is an example, they make different models for different use cases. The management interface shines if you are not a networking pro.

u/asarap · 2 pointsr/homelab

ah thanks for the info. I will probably return the one I have and probably pick this one up. GS108Tv2 What do you think about this one?

u/MaIakai · 2 pointsr/homelab

Gotches that can happen with anything.

  • Lack of Firmware/Software updates
  • Ports locked out because of Licensing
  • Lack of features because of serial/Licensing
  • Loud Fans
  • High power Draw

    Best overall deal for a 48xGigabit+2x10GB switch is a Quanta LB4M, they can be had under $100 on ebay. CLI only and they don't do Layer 3, but insane deal.

    Need more 10GB? Quanta LB6M Steps it up at 24x10GBe and 6x Gigabit. $350-500 now.

    Other great options can be found here.

    Skip Cisco unless you're actively learning or studying Cisco. Dell, HP are good options.

    Forget POE switches unless you need Active POE, it greatly adds power draw on the switch and finding one with greater than 1GB is just expensive. If you're using Cameras and phones then just get something like this. Do note that many 802.3at (Active POE) devices actually have autosensing for Passive POE. meaning the item below works for them too. I use this item with my Ubiquiti UAP AC-Pro's

u/manarius5 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>Do they make unmanaged POE switches? Probably not because (I am assuming) that you would have to turn the power on the specific port that you want.

Yes. here

You could also get a PoE injector.

u/legendtuner · 2 pointsr/homedefense

Technically a POE injector is what is needed. I just wanted to clarify as there are POE injectors and POE splitters.

You can get single injectors but once you start buying a couple they add the same price as this guy and that gives you room to add more cameras down the road

u/ethernaut85 · 2 pointsr/cableporn

The netgear is a JGS524 V2. The small switch is tp-link 8port gigabit switch from Amazon. I can't remember the model but it was a cheap one. The POE injector is from Wi-Fi Texas

WS-POE-8-48v60w Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector for 8 IP Cameras, VOIP Phones or Access Points, 48 volts, 60 Watts Total Power

It's running two hikvision cameras fed to a Lenovo TS140 running Ubuntu server with a VM running Blue Iris on Windows 8.1.

u/ionceheardthat · 2 pointsr/homedefense

Nope! My injector will do 8 ports, but it does have a maximum wattage rating. You likely wouldn't be able to run 8 cisco APs off of the injector I got. This is the exact injector I have:

u/dxm765 · 2 pointsr/pihole

Why not get a 8 port switch [like this DLink](TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SG108) that would give you more ports and possibly take stuff off wifi that doesn't need to be

u/mikeee404 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Another user posted a 5-port,bbut i would recommend an 8-port since you lose a port to the cable linking back to your router and you don't want to daisy chain a bunch of these if you run out of ports again

u/Exfiltrate · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You want to use normal cables. You won't be using any crossover cables.

Do yourself a favor and dispose of that 10/100 switch. You cannot run multiple cables from your router to your switch to increase bandwidth. It doesn't work that way.

Get a cheap gigabit switch to start out. Here is a cheap unmanaged one:

Ensure your ASUS router is in AP mode, so that it won't be doing routing.

u/huntforwifi · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Got it - thanks.

Would something as simple as this TP-Link Gigabit Unmanaged Switch connected to the main WiFi router work just fine without causing any latency or lag for any of the other WiFi points? Or does it matter what kind of switch we get?

u/dabron314 · 2 pointsr/OnHub

I bought this switch to go along with my OnHub:

I have the Hue bridge plugged into it as well as some other Ethernet devices. Works great.

u/koolpenguinklub · 2 pointsr/hardwareswap

hey, the gigabit switch is currently brand new going for $25 bucks on amazon.

good luck!

u/JR_Bosshog · 2 pointsr/PokkenGame

You all need to get an ethernet switch. Most of you play near your computer or in a place where a computer is and "complain" about there not being any additional connections available. Now "switch" your fucking attitude and get a ethernet switch.

One Switch

Two Switch

Black Switch

White Switch

PS. I hate you all

u/TheRufmeisterGeneral · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

It's possible not all 8 of the wires are making proper contact.

Networks try and be resilient: if there's a blockade, try and route around it, if there's a network cable problem, try and use what you do have left.

Cat 5e has 8 wires. To get full 1000mbit/s speeds, you need all 8 of those intact and working to spec. If you're missing one or several, the speed will fall down to 100mbit/s or slower.

A simple cable tester like this only costs a few bucks and is absolutely vital when running your own network cable.

More than once, I've dealt with contractors (I'm a sysadmin) who check to make sure that a network drop is working simply by plugging a laptop into one end and a switch (which is usually already present) on the other, and see if it connects. More than once, I've given them a simple cable tester like that, after showing them that the local network only supported 100mbit/s (instead of 1000mbit/s) because e.g. only 7 of the 8 wires were making proper contact.

Alternatively, it's possible that the "bridged router" (whatever the fuck that is) has issues. Why not just get a simple gigabit switch (like this) if you want to connect the cables?

By the way, if you're worried about the cable being too long (100m is the absolute hard limit, according to the spec), just put a simple switch halfway, that'll reset that limit, in this case giving you e.g. a 40m cable and a 60m cable, either of which are fine.

If there are no problems with your cables, you should have zero packet loss. If you're staying within spec (no cables longer than 100m) and your cable isn't broken anyway and the plugs are connected properly, you should have zero packet loss. Especially when staying on your own network (e.g. pinging the router or another (wired) computer in the same house.

u/MTCyberSec · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Like u/washu_k mentioned, a patch panel would be the best solution so the cables don't get damaged from moving things around. If you do decide to crimp this ends into RJ-45 connectors you can use this image to determine how the wires should be placed. You'll also need to buy a crimping tool. They're fairly easy to use but you may want to practice on a small patch cable first.



If you're only goes to have a few devices connected to the switch a small 8 port switch would work. They're only slightly more than a 5 port switch and gives you 3 more ports for future expansion. Assuming you just want to connect all computers to the same network, an unmanaged switch is a good choice. The one below should be a good choice for simple home use.



u/c0LdFir3 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

This. It's not glamorous and won't show you pretty stats in your unifi controller, but the price is right and it's bulletproof.

NETGEAR GS105NA Prosafe 5-Port Gigabit Switch

u/boxsterguy · 2 pointsr/freenas

I'd splurge a bit and get a Netgear, but otherwise, yeah, not that expensive and worth it.

u/FlyingPenguins900 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

So, when you connect to the internet you get a single IP address. This means that in theory you can only have one computer connected to the internet.

A router works by combining all the in/out data to one simulated "computer" then separating it all out to each computer, that is why each router seems to be on a separate network. What you need is one router and then one "switch" or "Hub" or "dumb router".

Here is the one I use

Basically you hook one cable from the router to the 5th port and you turned a 4port router into a 7port router. The down side is that the 4 computers on the switch will have a limited total speed of 1000Mbps (unless you use a 100Mbps cable).

u/ca1ibos · 2 pointsr/OculusGo

Assuming I am understanding you correctly, what you actually need to maximise the available wired and WIFI bandwidth of everything is a 4/5 port gigabit network switch (about $30) to share the single ethernet cable coming from your router in the kitchen (which I presume has gigabit capable ethernet ports) between your laptop, PS4 and Xbox (they're all in the same room at the other end of that ethernet cable coming from the Kitchen right??). Then If you have Windows 10 installed on the laptop with the laptop connected to the network switch you can create a wireless Hotspot with the WIFI chipset inside your laptop that will transmit direct to your GO in the same room eliminating all the signal degradation caused by the walls/floors between your GO and WIFI router in the kitchen. In other words, this gives your laptop, PS4 and Xbox wired gigabit network access and free's up the WIFI chipset in the laptop to broadcast a direct rock steady high-speed WIFI hotspot to the GO. The reason you started getting VD hiccups is that with the laptop communicating with the router in the kitchen via WIFI instead of wired last night, it was now battling with the GO for WIFI bandwidth from the kitchen router nevermind also battling the same signal degradation issues as the GO caused by the walls/floors between GO, Laptop and Router. My suggested solution eliminates all those issues and the only purchase needed is a $30 4/5 port gigabit network switch.

I've done something similar as my Router is in the kitchen 2 floors below. My bedroom VR PC is on a wired gigabit connection that goes through my houses 24port gigabit switch and then on to the router in the kitchen below. The difference is my Desktop VR PC had no built in WIFI chipset so I bought one of those USB3 WIFI AC dongles that plugs into my VRPC and broadcasts the Hotspot for my GO that I use from my bed at the other end of the room. You shouldn't need to buy one of those however because your laptop already has a WIFI chipset built into it. Even if you don't have Windows 10, there are free apps afaik that will allow you to create a mobile hotspot from your laptop. I didn't deeply research those because I didn't need to so you'll have to use your own Google-Fu for that. I'm getting a rock steady 400mbps between my PC WIFI Hotspot and GO and the only reason I'm not getting 800mbps+ over 5ghz AC is that the drivers for my USB AC Dongle doesn't expose channel settings when it's used in hotspot mode. If it were, I'd be able to switch it from 20mhz wide channels to 40mhz wide channels and thus likely get 800mbps or more. However, the 400mbps is more than enough already. Put It this way, I'm streaming 6k video from SLR (ahem, cough) to my GO without issue.

Google Windows 10 mobile hotspot setup for instructions. 2 things not mentioned in the instructions that I had to do was I right clicked on the Mobile Hotspot entry in Network and Sharing and went to properties and changed a setting to WIFI AC only which meant the hotspot only broadcast a 5ghz network because My GO is in the same room so didn't want my GO reconnecting via the slower 2.4ghz band at any time. I also went to the power management tab and unclicked the 'Allow Windows to power down this device' setting.

I'm in work atm so cant go into exact detail or give detailed instructions but if you have any problems just ask here and I'll try and help out.

u/S3venteen38 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

That's the thing, it's rated for that. The amazon page for the router, seen here, says specifically "Gigabit wired - Ideal for HD gaming & video". Even so, would an Ethernet hub solve the issue? This, for example?

u/drnick5 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ok I get what you're saying now.

If everything is working fine in the theater, I don't think you gain much by moving the cable modem behind there.

One other option, instead or unning a cable, is to use something like these Moca Boxes. This would allow you to create a network connection using your homes Coax cable. (if you've ever used a powerline ethernet box, its a similar idea, you put one box downstairs, and plug into coax, put another box upstairs and hook into coax. both boxes also have a network port and will link together). So in your case, put a moca box near the theater TV, put another upstairs, hook network cable from moca into router/switch downstairs. Upstairs, hook that moca box into the ubiquiti injector, and then hook the injector into the access point. You could try this route first, if it doesn't work, send the MOCA boxes back and then run a cable.

The only time this doesn't work is if you have cable or direct TV, and use a "whole home DVR" which also uses a MOCA connection, as they will likely interfere with each other. (although some have been able to get it to work)

As far as switches, you don't need to spend a lot, I really like the Netgear switches for the price. Something like this should work fine.

u/alexslife · 2 pointsr/eero

It’s a dumb. Netgear gs105

3,100 amazon reviews at 4.5

Very well known stable switch. It’s even the newer v3

u/Jackarino · 2 pointsr/eero

Get the Netgear metal 5-port switch. Affordable and reliable.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA) - Desktop, and ProSAFE Limited Lifetime Protection

u/usmcjoey7245 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I install these for clients ALL THE TIME

NetGear Unmanaged Switch

u/LUCIOP · 2 pointsr/UCDavis

Splitters dont work! I found that out and we fixed it by buying a network switch instead and connecting it to the port, now we all have wired connection here!

We bought this switch

u/RealityMan_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.

The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):

I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping. Patch cables are super cheap, are certified for the speed, and in most cases save you time and money vs crimping your own.

Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.

Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

u/GizTehCookieFox · 2 pointsr/pcgamingtechsupport

This is a nice cheap switch. It requires no setup, you simply plug all three computers into it and plug in the power supply for the switch.

Nice and easy :D

u/Ebdain · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Netgear or Linksys would be my choice.

This Netgear is only 10/100, but it's $20.

This Linksys is only 10/100, but it's a few bucks cheaper.

If you want gigabit, you could get yourself this Netgear 10/100/1000 for $35. There's also an 8 port option on that page for $50.

Any of those should work great for what you're doing.

u/SixStringSomebody · 2 pointsr/Assistance

One like is what you are looking for.

We use these at work and they work pretty well.

EDIT - Changed the built in blind link to the full amazon link so you would know its safe to click on.

u/mynameisdave · 2 pointsr/wireless

Better to get a cheap switch to split the wired connection and then hang a cheap access point off of it. Or just run the router upstairs/mount it to the ceiling. Something.

u/Hesslr · 2 pointsr/techsupport

What you need is a network switch like this:
Plug cable from other room, laptop, and desktop in to this.

u/rabidfurball · 2 pointsr/Hue

This is one I use for a few smart devices. Works great:
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch, (GS105NA)

u/soggybiscuit93 · 2 pointsr/computers

Just buy a roll of this and run it to the room you would like to use it in.

To make it pretty, I would run the 100ft cable to the back of this

Get two more smaller Ethernet cables, run one from the outlet into this switch (any port on it) if you want more ports in the other room, and then the other short cable from the switch to your PC.

This would be the best, most professional way of getting Ethernet into your room. It'll be much more stable and provide better performance than a WiFi dongle.

u/CJSteves · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

You could get a small 4 port gigabit switch for fairly cheap ($20-30 maybe?). Plug in a ptach cord to your jack, then connect your desktop and router and you're all set.

Here's a fairly cheap one on Amazon

You can get a cheap wifi router for probably the same cost as well, you don't need the highest quality since it's just going to be for the echo's connection.

u/wk4327 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Specifically for your application, you may or may not see any difference. You will however see a huge difference in scenarios when you are moving large chunks of data, such as: backup library over network. 10/100 is very, very, annoyingly slow. It does make sense to invest in gigabit switch. You can get these for pretty cheap these days:

imho, gigabit is not only worth it, it's minimum level

u/Kaizmuth · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Get either a 5 port or 8 port Netgear Gigabit switch depending on how many devices you need. If you have 5 devices, get the 8 port because one of the ports will be used by the connection to the wall.

Don't get a super cheap one. They don't last.

5 port:

8 port:

Not the cheapest, but they'll last and won't give you any problems. Make sure you get network cables to go along with them. Buy them on Amazon, not the local super store. They'll be 1/10th the price on Amazon as they will be at Best Buy or whatever.

u/cderring · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I've had the Netgear switches and love them. You could just get the 5 port one that would give you a total of 8 free ports between it and your current router or spend a little bit more for the 8 port version giving you plenty of room for future expansion. I own both and my 5 port GS105 has been running pretty much non-stop for 10 years.

u/jimbonics · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I recommend this little dude.

u/TheBlackNarwhal · 2 pointsr/computers

Honestly I don't really understand what you try to do but if you want to have ethernet cables go from your router to you pc and Xbox over the same cable I would suggest you get a switch, it basically turns 1 cable into multiple cables, that way you'll have internet access on both your pc and xbox and they can also communicate over your local network.

Something like this:
(I'm on mobile so I can't make the text the link xD)

Edit: actually now I just realized you probably want your pc that is on WiFi to share its connection with your Xbox over a cable, if that is the case why not just use the WiFi from the Xbox? As it is the same thing (maybe even faster) as using your pc as a repeater.

u/TheRoyalBunghole · 2 pointsr/homelab

So when you configure pfsense you configure dhcp leases and you configure it to tell all the client's that get leases to use the ip of your pihole as the dns also you might need a cheap switch for all the devices this is a real good one TP-Link 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SG105) but if your on a tight budget this works too TP-Link 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D)

u/thisisjustmyworkacco · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I bought this one and I haven't seen any connection problems or lag.

u/Otamotz · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Ah, I see. If you're on the fence about getting a router because you don't need a Wi-FI network an easy solution would be to order an Ethernet switch like this one. It's really cheap and it should speed up your xbox's connection too.

u/SnappyCrunch · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Conventional wisdom seems to say that a phone cord of longer than about 15 feet can be pretty bad for DSL speed and reliability. I never understood that, because a phone cord might travel for an additional hundred feet or so inside the walls before it hits your exterior telephone network utility box, but there seems to be plenty of anecdotal evidence to support the idea, so ::shrug::

At any rate, a Cat5 or Cat6 cable can be run 300 feet with few ill effects, and you can put a small network switch in there to repeat the signal if you can't find a single cable long enough to fit your needs or if you need to run a cable longer than 300 feet.

u/JackMeofVIII · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/Setitimer · 2 pointsr/networking

No. You need a hub or switch. Then you could connect both machines to the hub, and connect the hub to the ethernet port, and use both machines at the same time. You can get a cheap switch for under $10 that will get the job done.

u/Saffx · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

This is more related to networking than hardware, but if I were to buy a Network Switch like this and plug it directly into one powerline adapter downstairs (my router is upstairs) would it still work?

Basically I have the router and one powerline adapter upstairs and want to connect a powerline adapter and a network switch downstairs.

u/lindseyxsims · 2 pointsr/PS4

Came to say this, I use this one! I highly recommend it!

u/pinumbernumber · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Okay, you have a few options here. The simplest would be a wireless repeater- something similar to this- placed mid-way between your rooms and refreshing the signal to provide strong wi-fi to your room. However, going through two layers of wireless will impact speed. There's a better way.

A quick note- do not just connect another router to the cable running to your roommate's router. This will usually work, but without special configuration, it will put you in a state called "double NAT", which is a headache. Especially if you game.

In your place, I would buy a separate switch and Access Point.

  • The long cable from your roomate plugs into the switch.
  • You will need a short cable to go from the switch to your PC.
  • A second short cable is needed to connect the AP to the switch.
  • Both the switch and AP need to be plugged in to power.

    Now, your PC's access is going:
    and your phone is going:

    You can configure a network name, password, etc for your Access Point, entirely separate from whatever wifi your roommate has.

    You can likely find a single product that can do both of these functions (a correctly reconfigured router can do the job), meaning fewer devices/wires and probably less cost. But if I had to buy a setup that I knew would work with a minimum of fuss and configuration, those are what I would buy.
u/khangduong_ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If you don't have many outlets by your PC (like me) i'd suggest buying a surge protecting outlet to plug everything onto it. I'll also link a 5 port ethernet connection that works well with the powerline adapter if youre planning on connecting more ethernets towards any other devices u might have in your room (PS4,Wii, Xbox, Smart tv).

^^ thats the surge protector outlet i use. I'm using about 9/12 atm and using the powerline adapter in my bottom wall outlet.

If you watch tech youtubers alot, you can check out this video that explains the powerline adapter since you aren't used to what theyre for.

u/duck_oil · 2 pointsr/hardware

The USB port on the other router can be used to share printers or share hard drives. Not every router with USB ports have the same features though.

The more expensive router also has gigabit ethernet, not sure if that's important to you or not.

Your setup looks good to me. Just so you know, you can buy a switch
which will give you more Ethernet ports to work with if you need them in the future. You can also plug a wireless router into your existing modem, but that would take some network configuration skills

u/SheeEttin · 2 pointsr/unrealengine

I assume that would work, but that's a big assumption. The guide you linked should work, but you can stop after step 6. You don't need the workgroup.

I would definitely test it before trying to use it live. If it doesn't work, you can get a cheap switch, plug them both in with normal Ethernet, configure static IPs, and it should work fine.

u/Buelldozer · 2 pointsr/tablotv

You use a network switch like this one:

You take the network cable from the wall into the switch, then you take a network cable from the switch to the Tablo and another network cable to the Amazon Fire.

That's it. Nothing to configure or fuss with and both things are functional at the same time.

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

A small unmanaged switch merely splits the potential bandwidth to any device plugged in.

So you could share your internet without the need for any kind of programs or software bridging.

u/fokusfocus · 2 pointsr/OnHub

This is what I ended up getting

Should be ok right?

u/redditgoogle · 2 pointsr/GTAV

Oh definitely, be sure to get a network switch to go with it if you're using multiple devices. I bought this switch to go with my adapter and again, works fine.

u/TaedusPrime · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If your modem has 4 available Ethernet ports then it's probably a modem/router combo. A normal modem only has one port.

If you don't wanna move anything you can buy a cheap 4-5 port network switch and plug it into one of your router ports to expand it and use one of the ports on that switch for the adapter.

I prefer just using the PowerLine kits to get a good wired source to where you need it then plugging a access point into that. Wireless extenders are only as good as your existing wireless signal which in your case seem poor in that area.

Here's an idea of parts to get a reliable wireless signal to another side of house.

5 port switch to your router, from the switch to the PowerLine adapter. From the other powerline adapter in your target room/area to the access point. Then setup the access point and name it "Other side of house wifi" lol

This should give you a great full bar wifi source without uprooting your existing setup.

u/zyberwoof · 2 pointsr/halo

If using wireless, then just use the wireless router.

If you want it to be hardwired, then you need 4 open Ethernet ports, 4 Ethernet cables, and something assigning IP addresses. In most cases, your wireless router at home is already assigning IP addresses via DHCP. Don't worry, this won't get any more technical.

Your router likely has Ethernet ports. 1 for the modem. This one is likely on the side, and my be a different color. Leave this one alone. Next, you likely have 4 other ports. If all of these are empty, or you can unplug something, then all you need are 4 Ethernet cables that are long enough and you are good to go.

If your router doesn't have 4 open ports, then you'd want an Ethernet switch with 5 or more ports. A 10/100 switch is plenty fast. Getting a Gigabit or 10/100/1000 switch would be overkill, but perfectly fine. Here is an example of a cheap switch. Now, you'll want 5 Ethernet cables. 1 to go from the wireless router to the switch, and 4 to go to the Xboxes. The length of each depends on your setup.

u/OSPFv3 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You can use a regular ethernet switch.

It shouldn't influence performance unless you've saturated the line by doing something intensive on both systems.

What speeds is your internet package? (Upload & Download)

If it doesn't exceed 80mbps you should be safe with a cheap 10/100 switch.

Here are my suggestions. Cheap, but should be fine. High quality & supports gigabit.

u/GIDAMIEN · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

all you need is a cheap switch, just plug everything in that looks like it should be plugged in and you'll probably be ok.

u/Lurk-Threadwalker · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What kind of "splitter" did you use?
You will need something like this.

Do you have a router in your network?

u/andrewthenetworkguy · 2 pointsr/networking

Just get a ethernet Switch like TP-Link Switch and share the ethernet port. This will be the cheapest and easiest way.

u/RBeck · 2 pointsr/cableadvice

So it's an ethernet switch, got it. If you cant find the power adapter you can just get a cheap new one.

edit: For UK...

Gigabit or 10/100

u/subuserdo · 2 pointsr/homelab

OK. Your diagram is pretty much identical to my current setup, which was build piece by piece over ~6 months. Cheap and functions well, but don't expect too much.

I run a PfSense box as a firewall, using this board and cheap processor, 4gb ram (overkill), small case, second NIC.

This is my switch, currently the shittiest part of my lab. it's cheap, but I want something nice to mess around with. Behind the switch I have an old wireless router that gives wifi, a NAS and a desktop, when I have some more money I hope to add an ESX host.

What kind of server do you want? If you want to run more than a few VMs/services you'll need something with enough ram and cores, which is expensive... Depending on how complicated you want your server to be, you can go with a hypervisor or a full OS.

I like PfSense a lot, but you need to read up on it and decide if you want to mess with it right now. You'll be fine without a firewall if you're careful with your outbound ports.

u/neogohan · 2 pointsr/PS4

>I see ones that go up to 100mbps and some that go up to 1000mbps but don't know what those numbers mean.

These are the maximum speed these switches can support. 100Mbps is roughly equal to 10 megabytes per second, while 1000Mbps (or gigabit) is equal to 100 megabytes per second. If you aren't copying a bunch of data between your home computers, then 100Mbps will work just fine. Though if your router is gigabit, you might as well drop the extra couple bucks to get a gigabit switch.

Any one will do. Desktop switches, while not 'dumb' hardware, are much less complex than routers. A cheap router will give you issues, most likely, but a cheap desktop switch will typically perform every bit as good as a pricey one. My recommendation is the metal case version of this model simply because it's cheap and sturdy.

u/noahhuotari · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Like others have said you are going to need a Switch. The 4 extra ports on your router are a built in switch. It's your LAN. The router separates your LAN from the Internet. Just connect a switch to a port on the router and connect the other devices. I have drawn you a diagram for the wiring.

u/dirk150 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Edgerouter X should be good enough, the Edgerouter 10X is the same machine with more RAM, more storage, and more ports. If you need the console and USB ports, get the ER10X. If you don't, get the ERX and add cheap unmanaged network switches to expand your wired capacity.

u/t1n0m3n · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This is how I have my setup.

Difficulty: Requires a managed switch.

GPON plugs into switch on VLAN10, router outside plugs into switch on VLAN10.

Router inside plugs into VLAN20, all other wired clients plug into VLAN20.

If you have a managed switch, just make sure that the outside has a different VLAN as the inside.


If you have a non managed switch:

Option 1: Coupler

Get an ethernet coupler and eliminate the switch for the WAN side altogether.

Search: Cat6 ethernet coupler

(I searched for illustrative purposes only, there maybe cheaper ones available)


Option 2: Buy another (cheap) switch

Get an unmanaged switch and use it ONLY for your WAN connection.

I like and use this one in my house for various purposes...

u/red286 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

That one should be fine. Personally, I'd spend the extra $10 to get the gigabit version, but that's just me, it's not really essential, especially since it will only increase bandwidth between devices connected to the switch.

u/iosephulus · 2 pointsr/UCONN

A switch is the way to go. Wireless IMO isn't nearly as reliable as a wired connection. It's also theoretically a bit more secure too. A 5-port switch is useful at home, the dorm, or just about anywhere else. Here's a great example

>ethernet chords
>ethernet cords

u/_Kai · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Correct. Something in the $10-20 range will be good, like this. There's even an online manual for it here.

u/creeront · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Is there a reason why you can't just get a switch?

Also, is your desktop connected directly to a modem, or is there a router?

u/clymin · 2 pointsr/wireless
u/SarcasticOptimist · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What is your current router? Unless it accompanies an upgrade to AC, getting a $20 switch makes more sense.

u/APerfidiousDane · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Use MoCA if you have coaxial to support it. I decided to spend the money on 3 adapters (2 action-tec and 1 motorola) and pair them with 2 4-port switches and couldn't be happier. Now I'm able to get a full 100+Mbps on my gaming PC, TV, XBO, PS4, second PC and, if necessary, my SteamLink.

May want to use a coax tester prior to dropping the money though to make sure you have decent connections everywhere.

u/DickInTheDryer · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/Subpoena_Coladas · 2 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

I've been using this one (as well as a smaller 4 port version) and has handled my gigabit service well.

u/MonKAYonPC · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Asuming you are in the USA.

Something like this will help.

u/DonPoppito666 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Like this one?

I plug my main line into slot 1 and it goes across the others?

u/xDARKFiRE · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Those adapters exist however they are for connecting to a computer USB port to allow computers without ethernet jacks the ability to be wired into a network, the computer itself would have a driver installed so it can understand what device is plugged in and what to do with the data its given.

A network switch would not lose you any speed at all, especially a gigabit one such as this from amazon

quite literally plug a cable from the switch to the routers ethernet port, then all your other wired devices go into the switch

as a side note 7ms ping is 7 milliseconds, it's something that isn't noticable unless you need a really low ping(competitive gaming, some voip usage etc)

u/Philmatic84 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That guy is just trying to upsell you. Switches are designed exactly for that scenario, three switches are not too many. I have six and I have NEVER had an issue.

However, I would say that it is infinitely easier and cheaper to run lines before the drywall goes up. Run lines and ports to places you MAY think you want a port. In your case, I would put one on each end of each bedroom, two in the living room, and two in the lower level, then put the central wiring in your master closet. That's where it typically goes so you can hide the wiring in something like this and it will looks nice and tidy.

That's 10 ports, which may seem like a lot, but nothing is forcing you to connect them all at once. An 8 Port Switch like this one is extremely cheap and will keep everything nice and tidy.

u/cheesecakemelody · 2 pointsr/Hue

If you need ethernet port space just get this. Bluetooth is 100% not intended to replace the hub. Bluetooth only has a certain range between you and the bulbs. When you use the hub the bulbs act as zigbee repeaters and create a mesh so they all keep working.

u/jtvjan · 2 pointsr/furry_irl
u/boof_tongue · 2 pointsr/BitcoinMining

I have 5 machines all running simultaneously. Do you have a network switch? You'll need a network switch. This is the ONE I use.

u/rtechie1 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What kind of router do you have (name and brand)?

Your router probably doesn't support PoE. In that case, you will need to use an PoE injector for the camera. If you need to support multiple PoE devices, get a PoE switch.

u/KeavesSharpi · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

It's noname Chinese gear, so as long as you're not expecting much. I'd go with a better switch though, like this one:

Also, cat 6. Nobody uses 5e anymore.

u/Superiorwitt · 2 pointsr/homedefense

So as an update, these are the two options that I think we're going to go with. Well one of the two, any feedback on why the IP cam setup would be beneficial over the Analog?

Cameras: 4 Hikvision DS-2CD2142FWD-I 4MP WDR

u/diabetic_debate · 2 pointsr/synology

> 4 are outdoor and PoE using this switch:

Just a heads up for anyonelooking for this switch, this is a fast ethernet switch. That is, it only goes up to 100Mbps and not gigabit.

This may be important if you are looking for an all-in-one switch for your home network as well as your cameras.

There is a newer version of the above switch that supports PoE and gigabit:

u/atvar8 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I've got a Trendnet TEG-s82g that works pretty well. It's cheap, it's tough, it's reliable, and it's easy to set up.

10/10 would recommend.

u/schwiing · 2 pointsr/homelabsales

The Free lan cable is nice, so I may be overstepping, but it's the same price, new, on amazon:

u/OEMBob · 2 pointsr/htpc

I don't think your choices should really be mutually exclusive. A cheap unmanaged gigabit switch would cost you @ $25. I've got 2 of these (older model though) running at home without an issue. Been that way for 2 years or so.

But I would definitely look into upgrading that CPU. That would work fine for a simple storage node running some simple software like Sonarr, SickBeard, CouchPotato, and the like. But any heavy lifting like transcoding and streaming is going to beat up that processor pretty hard.

Upgrading to something in the mid-range like an i5 2500 (same socket) would probably double your performance or even better.

For around $200 to $250 for both CPU and switch you would probably be in decent shape. Not sure how well it'll handle 4k though since I haven't really delved into that realm myself.

Edit: I'm seeing you are running everything through the switch but only actually using 3 connections + the router. I am assuming you are using the switch because the router is in an inconvenient spot for running network cable? Otherwise I would ditch the switch and run everything through the router.

Also, ditch the coupler on the run to the NAS. Either get a long CAT6 cable or make your own. Every connection you make is the chance for something to not be quite right.

u/Mac-Do845 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
WAN Ports<br />
    1 x 10/100M WAN; 4 x 10/100M LAN<br />

All wired interface run for a maximum of 100Mbps. But you can add a cheap switch for 1000Mbps for your LAN.

For the WAN the link between you and your ISP you can't do anything but 100bps is not that bad if your ISP give you under 100Mbps already.

u/jwBTC · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I guess I just question the need for VLANs. Its not like VLANS magically make things faster. 1Gbps is 1Gbps!

Switches already only send data to the port intended, so I would just go with this:

u/exps35 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I'm a big fan of netgear's GS105E for access switches. There's no PoE, but at $24 after rebate just buy an injector with what you save. The web management interface is sleek and doesn't have too large of a learning curve. Completely silent (fanless) and very small. Stick it in a corner and forget about it.
Edit: obviously you can scale up to 108E etc if you need more ports.

u/phishook · 2 pointsr/homelab

As others have said, using a switch that supports port mirroring would be better.

This switch for $30 supports port mirroring.

Your modem and router would be connected to the switch, but you would designate a port as your tap and set up port mirroring. Then you set your sniffer computers NIC in promiscuous mode and connect it to the port you set up as the mirror destination.

Here is how it works in detail:

u/matt10489 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

FYI, as other mentioned prevent creating a loop, these netgear switches have a loop prevention option that works good enough for a home setting.

u/kWV0XhdO · 2 pointsr/networking

Use a very inexpensive switch with port mirror function?

You'd plug the receiver into the "mirror" port, and the sender into any other port.

Any traffic generated by the receiver will probably be dropped by the switch. You'd need to test to be sure.

edit: In one of your comments you said something about secure/insecure. If this is a security boundary, then don't use one of those switches. There's no reason to trust that it won't allow (re)configuration from either end

u/flippy3 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

If you want to stay with Pi - VLANs. There is a 5 port Netgear switch which will support VLANs - I've used this to run a firewall on a Pi.
The Banana Pi mentioned below looks interesting - I'll be taking a closer look at it. Or there's this - This, or something very similar, was convered in an Ars Technica article on building your own router.

u/AKGeek · 2 pointsr/lanparty

That is not the case all the time.

Note: this is no where near what I am looking for but still powered by POE

u/eegras · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/ginbot86 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This switch should fit the bill. It is 802.3af/at powered, has 5 Gigabit Ethernet ports, and if you really wanted to, it can pass along a small amount of power to two of its downstream ports.

u/my_cat_is_a_jerk · 2 pointsr/CommercialAV
u/not_dan_today · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

Here you go.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Smart Managed Plus Switch, PD Powered, Pass-through, ProSAFE Lifetime Protection (GS105PE)

u/Churn · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

How about this one, then? It accepts a POE cable to power itself, so there's no power cord involved. Just the uplink cable and the cables for the other devices, which you have in any case.

u/SScorpio · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

TP-Link sells an 8 port for $30. Not sure of its performance verse the Netgear. It's rated at 16gbps for switching so all 8 ports switching full duplex at the full 1gbps all at once.

u/Justinsaccount · 2 pointsr/networking

I use a;amp;psc=1 at home. Needs to be initially configured using a shitty windows tool, but otherwise just works.

u/Ingenium13 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You could install pfsense on the laptop and then use 2 vlans on the single ethernet port, one for LAN and one for WAN. However you would need a vlan capable switch. This is the cheapest that I've found (I hate the name, calling it "unmanaged pro" implies it doesn't do vlans).

That switch does have a non-intuitive vlan interface though. If you end up getting it and need help, let me know and I can walk you through it.

u/dereksalem · 2 pointsr/PleX

That is **way** too complicated for most people, and completely unnecessary. You can get a cheap ($25-$35) TP-Link switch and just connect everything without doing all of that software magic. I removed the Gateway from my setup 8-10 months ago and anytime I've had to turn off/restart pfSense all I do is get the Gateway out of the closet, plug it in, wait till the light turns green, then plug in pfSense in its place.


Get a TP-Link TL-SG108E switch (currently $33), set ports 1 and 2 to VLAN1 (and the rest to something else). Set your router to use the MAC address of your Gateway (get it from the Gateway broadband page). Plug the ONT into port 1, Gateway into port 2. Once green, unplug Gateway and plug in your router. Done.


The entire process, even for someone that doesn't know much about networking, should take 5 minutes or less, and you can leave it running like that for as long as you need.

u/r1ght0n · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Also wanna add about the steam link, the ubiquiti has 3 different wireless networks per say, so you can isolate the steam to its own to keep the traffic down and keep the connection steady. But I don’t think you need to do that, but you can get TP-Link network switches to handle the wired connections link to ones I use

Also if you want you can always add a MoCA adapter, that’s assuming you already have coaxial cable ran threw the house. You would only need once since FiOS modem/router supports them, I’m in the process of getting one myself to hardwire my TV/fire stick since I will be cutting the cord completely as well :)

u/envious_1 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I just bought this tp-link 8 port switch that has loop prevention on sale for $25. I don't really need it though, but it was cheaper than their standard of unmanaged 8 port switch so I got that instead.

u/WhosListening · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That switch doesn't appear to support VLANs.

This one does, and it's cheaper -&gt;;amp;qid=1453166594&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=tp-link+sg108e

It has an easy to use config tool that should make your life easier.

If you're using the FIOS router as a Wifi router, then you may need another wifi router. Depends on how you set it up. I'd suggest getting a switch that supports VLANs, and then experimenting with setting it up. You may find that you don't need another wifi router.

u/sec_me_free · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

you're the man.

So Modem to this &gt;

Then from the router to &gt;

One port on that switch to an AP right next to it

another port on that switch to the wire going upstairs hooked up to the other AP.

The AP's I'm looking to get.

let me know how that setup looks. let me know if you think I should go for cat6 cable or whatever. at this point that'd just be a drop in the bucket. Last thing to note. This small home network has a ton of wireless devices. chromecasts out the ass, evryone has a mobile phone and tablet, and laptop. Talking like 40-50 devices going to be on the network. think the router will handle that or should I upgrade it.

u/minnesnowta · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want a solution that will work with any router, you can read through this thread over at DSL reports.

The summary is to put a smart switch that allows vlan tagging between your ONT and router with the proper tagging.

Here's a switch for $29.99 that someone in that thread mentions they got it to work. The switch the OP mentions is now $54.99 on amazon. You might be able to find one cheaper - especially try to get a smaller one since you really only will be using 2 ports on it.

u/nihr43 · 2 pointsr/homelab
u/actually_just_idiot · 2 pointsr/Buttcoin

&gt;Oh I would make a handful of Untangle Firewalls. While I don't expect them to be fast anyway, usb to ethernet would probably not be reliable.

Oh, definitely. That would be slow as shit. I didn't understand what you were going for.

PS: I've never seen this firewall software before. I might try this instead of tomato. Thanks :)

&gt;Basically I would make these boxes with Untangle then go put them in at relatives homes. Then I wouldn't have to worry about them downloading bullshit and expecting me to fix it.

As an alternative to a computer with multiple Ethernet ports, you could try setting up two vlans and getting a switch with vlan support, like this one. The idea is that the firewall would connect to both vlans over a single cable, and pass traffic between the two. The downside is that it's a lot more complicated, and Untangle might not play nice with it.

u/Parasol747 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

get a network switch like this

u/shamo316 · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

Since your using psfense router it's essy. Been working great for me for a couple years now.

You can bypass the AT&amp;T gateway completely. Been working great for me for a couple months.

You'll need this also TP-Link 8 Port switch.On the TpLink you have to use 802.1Q tagging. I left 3 default for ont, gateway and pfsense. then tagged the others to vlan 3.

read all the stuff here

u/Termiux · 2 pointsr/level1techs

&gt; ow bad your current wireless TP-Link is

Daaaamn dude, how do I say this... THANK YOU this was very informative and complete like really thanks for taking the time.

I guess I'll be looking in betweek the HP 1810 and the Netgear although I had an eye on the managed ones, like the TP Link TL-SG108E;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

You mention noise, it is an issue, I'll probably have the switch just behind my tv, there are no many places to hide it in here.

About the switch unmanaged and managed I wanted to tinker with it, always wanted to learn a bit more of networking.

As for the WiFi it's ok, but just ok. I live in an apartment and is crowded AF with wifi signals, I check to see the congestion every few months to change the channel and it helps a bit, but I would like to use 5Ghz instead.

Again thanks for the advice and the links I'll be taking a look, thank you!

u/StammesOpfer · 2 pointsr/homelab

If you need just simple features (vlans, port mirror, etc) hard to beat $30

u/re5i5tor · 2 pointsr/eero
u/689430944 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

&gt; landline

&gt; im older


anyways, what you want is an ethernet switch. (with Gigabit speed preferably) you don't necessarily need new RJ45 cables unless your existing ones are damaged or you don't have enough. it might be worth the cost to get a crimping toolkit and spend the time to make 1 cable into 4 shorter cables that go to a switch, so you don't have to buy more cable for each device.

here's a listing for an 8 port gigabit switch that should work

existing combo modem/router/switch/AP boxes can be configured as a wireless access point/switch.

information on how to use a second router as an access point/switch

here's that crimping kit I was talking about

u/SphericalRedundancy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Put your ISP provided modem/router in bridge mode and get a UBNT ERX, they're like 50 bucks on amazon.

And if you need a switch just look for any 5 or 8 port unmanaged/desktop switch from net gear or TP-Link like this one.

If you need a wireless AP also get something from UBNT, they're amazing for the price.

u/Volcomm · 2 pointsr/lanparty

I've got this switch, it hasn't failed me yet, just wondering if there's something better I should be using

u/TheBigGame117 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I mean, don't unmanaged ports literally run off like 12V DC? can you just find a different plug for it that'll convert 240VAC to 12VDC? Nothing with 8 ports is going to have a C13/14

Then get a different adapter for it? Eh?;amp;gdfms=3911580D2AF64F7E9F9D8DA1401FB3B3&amp;amp;gclid=CjwKCAiAt8TUBRAKEiwAOI9pAEwbffy65JZVipI6zhab6xB8xX33EeadnmLVKAB0_EDMEJzO87GgLRoCQ1IQAvD_BwE

(I guess this cord says 125VAC, but come on, it won't struggle with 6W being pulled through it)

So you got yourself a C14 plug (that's what the PDU you link has) to a 5-15R plug (meh) and then an adapter that is good for 240V (hell, the one that comes with it might even say 240VAC on the side of it, I'll check mine when I get home later)

This was 5 minutes of Google, if you go this route do your own homework and buy only what you feel comfortable using

u/chronop · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

For starters I would get a basic tester just to test the cable drops and make sure all is well, if it's really been about 15 years there is a decent chance of some breaks / cabling issues. Sounds like a simple Unmanaged 8-port Gigabit Switch can be installed in the attic with all of the Ethernet cables plugged into it.

u/JTswift · 2 pointsr/eero

I know it has already been answered, but I'll double down and say, YES! Just to expand on the point:

I have a few devices that are wired-only, and the ports on the eeros allowed me to get rid of my Powerline Ethernet adapters. This freed up a power plug at my "main" area that has my modem, gateway eero, tv, and numerous other devices.

I have an OTA box (SimpleTV) that is ethernet-only, and it's in a completely different room, attached (now) to a leaf eero. Getting that thing off of powerline ethernet vastly increased the speed/quality when streaming from the SimpleTV.

Also, you're not limited to just two ports on the eero. You can get an ethernet switch/hub and expand it that way. Something like this, for example.

I have an 8-port on my gateway eero that has: TV, PS4, Xbox One, NAS, FireTV...and it works just fine.

u/tre_c · 2 pointsr/sonos

My sonus connect in my living room is connected to my netgear gs108 and it has been working for years without a problem. It comes on 5,8 &amp; 16 port version and the rackmount ones go to 24 ports.

I have two of these in my system and the server with all my music is in my office connected to one switch and the sonus in in the living room connected to the other.

There may be better ones but I have had no problems with these at all.

u/nexusheli · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Nothing handy (I'm at work). I have an open shelf above a closet in my living room where I installed a 4-gang box with ac, speaker connectors, keystone and a pass-through for the ethernet cables. I installed this tiny patch panel vertically to the left of the gang-box. I color coded keystones from each room to the patch panel, and used the keystones in the gang box for cable, HDMI, IR, subwoofer connection and have my cable box, receiver, cable modem, router, and switch all up there.

u/starwars0808 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Also - A generic unmanaged switch won’t screw anything up as the router up line manages all the routing and IP assignment.

Put this switch in your detached garage.
NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Sturdy Metal, Desktop, Plug-and-Play, ProSAFE Lifetime Protection (GS108)

Run a cat line to the ceiling (from the switch) AP -

Or down the wall to one of these

And then with the other 6 ports on the switch run direct lines to everything that can be hardwired. Get a bigger switch if you have more than 6 devices.

u/Synux · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Intuit says QuickBooks is not to be run over a wireless network. Anyone that accesses the QBW needs to be physically connected or they need to RDP to the workstation/server hosting the QBW.

If you're interested in controlling your network edge (you should be) then find a router like a SonicWALL TZ500 or better that offers a comprehensive gateway protection (AV/IPS/content filtering/etc.) If that isn't in the cards maybe a Ubiquity router is a solid plan B.

You're not doing anything that would make me push you to some kind of special Ethernet. Honestly, CAT5E is fine. CAT6 is better, but better in ways you're not going to experience at this scale. That said the cost delta is little so do whatever and you'll be fine there.

You'll need a gigabit switch. It can be simple for now.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1478050211&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=gigabit+switch&amp;amp;refinements=p_n_intended_use_browse-bin%3A9647498011

u/AndroidDev01 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Do you know if it has a built in router if so disable that. Oh and you should get a switch to connect to your router then connect to your 2 computers. Connecting directly to modem can cause lots of problems particularly with people trying to access your network.

Here's a link to a good small switch

u/NitroKoS · 2 pointsr/beermoney

I ran into the same issue, I now have 85+ devices on my network with zero problems. Your best bet is to scrap/sell your current network gear and build yourself a solid setup. I recommend the following (get as many switches and APs as needed, I am using 3 APs currently):

Cable Modem:



Unmanaged Switches:

Software: Unifi Controller - this is free -

u/sknick_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

So shouldn't the ethernet cable coming from outside be plugged into the WAN port on your router? Then the wall jack cables would all be plugged in to the switch you buy - or for now the LAN ports on the router.

Here's an 8 port gigabit switch for &lt; $30 after rebate.

Guess it just depends on how many rooms you have wired. One port would be the uplink to the router, leaves 7 ports for 7 rooms.

Here's a 16 port gigabit switch for $65 after rebate

u/Rogue__Jedi · 2 pointsr/homelab

Suggestions for something half that price(or less)? I just recently started my lab and have no use for that many ports..yet..

Also form factor doesn't matter.

Edit: this is what I've been considering

u/drakontas · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

For an inexpensive-but-good option, pick up a TP-Link SG3210 for &lt;$100. -- Note that this allows management via a decent web UI, a physical serial console, SSH, or telnet.

For a "cheap, ugly, but functional" solution, look at TPLink's "Easy Smart" line of switches. For instance, the $26 SG105E. -- Note that this requires their Windows-only configuration tool; there is no web interface, physical console, or SSH.

u/srdjanrosic · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

google wifi will use 2.4/5/wired ethernet as needed for backhaul, it will do pppoe but not vlan tagging.

if you have an old gigabit router lying around (e.g. tl-wr1043nd / e3000 / wrt610n /...) you can use dd-wrt/openwrt on them to turn them into a vlan capable switch so you can control the tagging (no wifi - no routing on them), or you can get a cheap switch RB260GS or TL-SG105E, or you can get a proper switch with lots of ports that you'll most likely need anyway, and spare 2 ports on it for vlan201, or you can get a router that supports vlans and pppoe out of the box (usg / rb750gr3 / ...)

u/predskid29 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Any thoughts on the TP-Link 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Easy Smart Switch? I just got Gigabit Ethernet in my house and I wanna be able to connect a few more things. Also, what's the difference between Desktop unmanaged and Desktop Web Managed and is it worth the difference?

u/beebMeUp · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

I use these at home for separating out my kids' traffic.

u/jonisradical17 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

With Uverse I have to use their router/modem. And in my experience, they're trash and I can't ever figure out how to do what I want. I guess I could always get a router and wire their modem into it, and have the router connected to the access points. I don't know how that works, would each access point give it's own signal that's not controlled?

Also, 5 port switch like this?;amp;qid=1524744877&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=5+port+switch

And are there any good ones that receive a wireless signal and have data output connections?


u/Theyellowtoaster · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Something like this:
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305) - Desktop, Sturdy Metal Fanless Housing

And something like this:
TP-Link EAP245 V3 Wireless AC1750 MU-MIMO Gigabit Ceiling Mount Access Point, seamless roaming, Supports 802.3af PoE and Passive PoE(Injector Included)

You can go cheaper on this for sure but that would let devices take most advantage of the speed if you have new devices and fast wifi

But yeah, just a router in AP mode would work too.

u/zakabog · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Buy a 5 port switch, plug your router into it and then your PC and your console, and anything else you want to have internet access.

u/cdp1337 · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

Aye, probably something to do with the 100mbps connection speed. Try picking up a cheap 1Gbps switch and try that.;amp;qid=1549168737&amp;amp;sr=8-6&amp;amp;keywords=netgear+gig+switch for example, it's a cheapy, but at $15 and prime, it may be worth a shot. Also check that your builtin NIC is gig capable. lshw -C network will show your network card's capabilities.

u/tsdguy · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Depends - can you run Ethernet cable (Cat 5e or 6 - NOT Cat 5) discretely or inside your wall? If so then you would set up at your ISDN modem (where your phone jack is) and an Ethernet switch - like this one.

You plug your modem into the switch and also your long Ethernet cable as well as your Dell desktop (3 ports total). You run that downstairs and plug it into your wireless router (whatever one you have - you didn't say) and any of your devices that have Ethernet.

Now you have wireless Ethernet and wired Ethernet downstairs and wired Ethernet upstairs.

If you can't or don't want to run a long Ethernet cable then you can replace the long wire with a Powerline adapter kit. This is an adapter kit that uses AC power lines to run networking. If you get a good one you can run 1 gb Networking on the AC wiring.

Here's a good Powerline kit (AV2 - up to 1gb networking) - This kit has 2 adapters - you plug one into the wall near your switch upstairs and connect it via Ethernet. Plug the other in an AC outlet downstairs and plug it into your wireless router. $50

u/ShrimpsForLunch · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Yeah just get a small desktop switch. Wall to switch and then two Ethernet cables from the switch to your devices. You wouldn’t see any noticeable difference in performance. Something like this would do

u/DarthPneumono · 2 pointsr/Hue

Going somewhat off u/TimKatt's response, but here's what you should be doing:

u/jpayne97 · 2 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

I highly recommend putting both those on a switch. I did that and never had any more mount problems. That way router resets didn't affect them.
NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Desktop, Internet Splitter, Sturdy Metal, Fanless, Plug-and-Play (GS305)

u/manoncod · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Thanks for the help. The switch I went with was from some others that I talked to they said it would would very well for what I need it for.

u/V0RT3XXX · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Just get whichever is the cheapest switch you can find at the local PC store. These are really simple devices and hardly ever break so don't need to get the fancy stuff.

u/rootkode · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Desktop, Internet Splitter, Sturdy Metal, Fanless, Plug-and-Play (GS305)


TP-Link 5 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Life Time Warranty| Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG105)

Netgears do have good reputation, I have that same model I believe, that runs 24/7 and has been for the past couple of years, 3 maybe

Sorry I didn’t see where you needed an 8 porter. But nonetheless, these are great switches that I’m sure you can find in 5,8,10,24 ports

u/carouselz · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Thanks so much for the details! So you're saying I can just grab this for now to start with? Or do I also need a separate AP for wifi devices? Love the idea of everything being separate so I can build up the system over time.

u/MalfeasantMarmot · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The unifi APs will handle all of the roaming. They don't need the controller up and going to do it. They'll operate on different channels and leave it up to the devices as to which one to use at any given time. I have two and often don't have the controller running and my devices switch back and forth without issue.

I'd consider getting one of the unifi switches as well. Then you have the manageability that comes with that. It might make things run a little smoother, but it isn't required. This one is a good way to go to start with, it will also power your APs. This is the one I started with, though it is a little more expensive.

I like having the ability to manage VLANs through the switch itself, especially if you're running a server.

u/navy2x · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The best thing to do is separate everything out so you can future proof your setup. What if down the line you want to extend your wifi or need more wired ports? When you separate everything out (security gateway/firewall, switch and wifi access points) its much easier to upgrade and troubleshoot. Your typical consumer grade all in one routers have all three of those things in one package and none of them are particularly great.

Ubiquiti is the current leader at this for the home user. They have SOHO grade equipment (small office home office) which is basically enterprise grade equipment but at consumer grade prices.

If I were you, here's what I'd do:
Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG) - this will be the brains of your system and allow port forwarding, QoS, deep packet inspection, etc.

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W) - this gives you 8 ports, all of which can be enabled for power over ethernet which can easily power your security cameras and access points. If you don't need this then you can get the cheaper non-PoE switch Ubiquiti US-8 Unifi Switch

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) - This is a great access point to give you fast wifi at a great range. This plugs directly into your switch via ethernet cable. If you need to extend you wifi then you can get a second one and plug it in. These can be powered by PoE which is really nice.

Total cost: $461

I guarantee you would end up spending more upgrading an all in one router over the next few years. This will easily last you 10+ years if not more and be enterprise grade equipment.

u/gbdavidx · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking;qid=1554757555&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1 can do vlans. You would ideally have all your smart home accessories on 1 vlan, guest vlan, and private vlan (desktops/laptops) that you wouldn't want to have touching your smart home stuff

u/anboas · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you want to stay in the same ecosystem, here’s my recommendation for Ubiquity. You may need more than 1 AP depending on the layout of the house, walls and placement.

Modem: ARRIS SURFboard Gigabit Docsis 3.1 Cable Modem, 10 Gbps Max Speed, Approved for Cox, Spectrum and Xfinity, (SB8200 Frustration Free)

Router: Unifi Security Gateway Pro 4-Port

Switch for non PoE gear: Ubiquiti US-24 Unifi Switch

Switch for PoE gear: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

Access Point(s): Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US)

u/bigbonelessjerk · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I need to build a whole new network because the cable modem is only the Spectrum bare bones with nothing but a wired connection. If I'm seeing this correctly, I would need the EdgerouterX plus the Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Long Range plus a [switch] (;amp;pd_rd_i=B01MU3WUX1&amp;amp;pd_rd_r=441ae487-d265-4bf9-bee1-32808368ecd6&amp;amp;pd_rd_w=m61Fs&amp;amp;pd_rd_wg=RryX3&amp;amp;pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&amp;amp;pf_rd_r=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V&amp;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;refRID=RWYB945JJK6S08X1HX3V)for the wired LAN computer to connect to in the back of the house.

I could then plug the Unifi AP into either the EdgerouterX or the switch where my main computer is plugged in with Cat5. If necessary, I could get another Unifi AP and have them plugged in at both ends of the house in a wireless mesh.

u/DEKEBLUE4 · 2 pointsr/homelab

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

You're talking about something like this?

u/beersykins · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The Ubiquiti US-60W isn't too horrendous.

You could pick up a used Nortel 5520 or something for $20 but they're pretty noisy and less convenient.

Do you need any specific features other than maybe VLAN?

u/Shrappy · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

You'll want some Ubiquiti equipment for this functionality and price point. Ubiquiti wifi AP's can broadcast multiple SSIDs, each on their own VLAN. Back that with a ubiquiti switch which also supports vlans, and you should be good to go.

Swtich here, AP here, and I'd recommend a new router so you know the vlan segregation extends all the way to the firewall, so here's the USG.

Granted, VLAN's are not a security tool and it is relatively easy to bypass them, but this should do for home use.

u/robin_flikkema · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

You're talking about the PoE hat?

Get a switch that has at least 4 ports of 802.3af and a rating of at least 50-60W (calculated by 5V 2,5A 4 RPi's).
You don't need to worry about voltages and amperages of the switch as long as it supports 802.3af and has a total wattage of at least 50-60.

The USW-8-60W would probably work or a TP-Link SG1005P or a Netgear GS305, haven't tried these personally with 4 RPi's but it should work

u/0xBADB17E · 2 pointsr/cybersecurity

Offhand I don't have any solid recommendations. I think this Ubiquiti switch has port mirroring. The spec sheet mentions it but doesn't get into details. Cisco has it on many of their devices but refer to it as 'SPAN'.

A network tap would be a superior option, but they get expensive if you need anything over 10/100baseT.

You can also pick up used gear from craigslist. I've used an old Cisco ASA5505 for years since my internet never breaks 100 Mb/s.

u/jabbyknob · 2 pointsr/TeslaModel3

Don’t use that netgear garbage. Ubiquiti makes really nice enterprise class network equipment which is super simple to set up and manage. At a minimum, all you need is cat5-e (cat 6 fine too) distributed around the house and a couple access points connected to the hard lines:

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US)

(2 access points cover my 2500 sqft house and a third covers my detached garage and back yard)

You can optionally buy a PoE switch (power over Ethernet) to connect to the access points so that the power is transmitted through the network cable and you don’t have to plug them in to a wall outlet. This will work if you choose this route (you will have to configure this switch to turn on PoE on ports connected to access points).

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

Any one of these progressive options is a valid stopping point, but I recommend buying the secure router/gateway and then the cloud key. These allow you to do advanced network management (main + guest Wi-Fi networks, custom qos throttling):

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG)

Ubiquiti UniFi Cloud Key (UC-CK)

The guest network is worth the price of admission for added security. Put all your random wireless devices (i.e. the internet of things) on this network to isolate them from your major devices (PCs and phones). Reason being the IoT devices are frequently hacked and used to access your home network.

u/macbalance · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have one of these:;psc=1

Which connects to one of these:;psc=1

The Switch connect to the FiOS Gateway. I wouldn't mind adding a second (or even 3rd) AP, but money is always an issue. The Switch and the other Gateway interaces have several other devices on it:

  • 2 Desktops (One is the 'server' I mentioned)
  • Home NAS
  • Work Special Access Point
  • 'Lab' Router

    The AP has a pass-through which connects to a no-name switch (that I need to replace) that provides connectivity to the entertainment center stuff (AppleTV, TiVo, game consoles, etc.)

    I'm pretty minimal by many people's standards. If I move I'd like to switch to using one of Ubiquiti's USG Firewall/routers and a dedicated controller so I can do wireless guest access better.
u/wabbit02 · 2 pointsr/ubiquity

I would check pricing of buying from another supplier as well (UK based so no idea on US options). For Home you dons't 100&amp;#37; need the cloud key, its nice, I have one but the controller SW doesn't need to be running 24/7 unless you want a portal (auth)/ stats etc (as far as I am aware)

You also need to change the switch to this 60w POE (or above), the one you have selected has POE pass though (e.g. you use another switch to power it and it can then power another device) These are really neat for a "behind the TV" replacement but wont work to power the Cloud key and UAP

You should also consider the new nanohd - $30 more but has MU-MIMO - that said I haven't really seen the reviews on it.

u/naf_andrewson · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

As an update I own these two switches - right now my setup under cable is modem - router/wifi/switch - NAS/5-Port Switch/8-Port Switch/Free (I think, I cannot recall, I do not think I have a 4th device hooked into it).

So their modem - pfsense - I am assuming this EdgerRouterPOE/8PortSwitch/5Port Switch/Ubiqiti AP

Am I missing something?

u/unnamed_demannu · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm an MSP which deploys hundreds of these.

I live in Florida, the lightning strike capital and these are the most rugged I've been able to find reliably without the extreme markup.

u/sell_me_on_it · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It costs a little more than some of the other options listed but I'm a fan of the GS108 from Netgear. It's a really great little switch.

u/eskimozach · 1 pointr/cableadvice

I like pmarinel's suggestion and I'm just going to piggy back on his response.

Since Xfinity is your provider, you can use an Arris Surfboard modem to give internet to your router to distribute to your house and through that you can save on not having to pay monthly rental fee's to Xfinity to use their modem.

I would find the coax cable that is most central to your apt (and also has one of the network ports in the wall near it), plug my surfboard modem into that coax, plug my surfboard modem into the WAN/Internet of my router, and then have one of the LAN ports of my router plugged into the wall network port leading to the box you have in the photo, and then plug ports 1, 2, 3, 4 of that black patch box into an unmanaged switch such as this that you can leave in there. Doing all of that would mean your WiFi network would be distributing throughout your apartment from a central location (even coverage), and all network ports in your house would be wired to that same network, and best of all you don't have to waste money paying for Xfinity's monthly equipment rental fees.

If you want suggestions for WiFi routers, let me know and send you a few recommendations. If you apartment is large and you're worried about WiFi from a single device not covering your home well enough, I heard Google Mesh networks are pretty good for that.

u/jimcevlee · 1 pointr/homelab

Would you like the NETGEAR GS108 ? I have bought two from Amazon that worked fine.

u/shahmeers · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Just get a 3 way (or more) ethernet switch. (the 5 port option)

u/blank_dota2 · 1 pointr/level1techs

&gt; Is it worth it to get an AP and connect it to the switch? instead of using the integrated with the router (the one I have)

It depends how bad your current wireless TP-Link is. Is the wireless signal flaky (does it drop randomly or disconnect your laptop randomly)? Any issues? Signal problems? Random shutoffs?

If so, then replace it, if not then you could try using it as an AP.

In my experience TP-Link gear is a good value if you don't need reliability. I had bad luck with my TP-Link DSL modem frequently overheating and/or being unresponsive on the web gui.

Is it worth it to get an AP and connect it to the switch? instead of using the integrated with the router (the one I have)

Definitely eBay. You can get a UAP-AC-Lite for $60ish on eBay, and that leaves $40 for a switch which is more than enough.

Is noise a problem? As the noisier switches tend to be dirt cheap. Foundry FLS648 is $49 used or less, sometimes as low as $20. It's noisy though.

If you need a quiet switch it's more expensive, but you could always get a Netgear switch if your okay with it sort of flaking out every day or two randomly, those are around $20 new on amazon.

A friend of mine once said if you avoid getting the Netgear switches with a web gui, and instead get the dumb/unmanaged L2 only version of the ProSafe line, that it's not bad.

Personally though this is what I use and recommend:

The seller would probably accept $49, but if not here is another cheap L2-only switch:

It's the HP 1810, it's ok. Not as reliable as the FLS648, some people have had them fail on /r/homenetworking and /r/homelab, but a lot of people have had great luck with them, and they are dirt cheap ($25-$35). You could always buy one every year in case one fails :D.

Another option is:

HP's 1910 is much more reliable than their older 1810 model, and has some L3 capabilities.

Here's an old pic of the FLS648 in action.

u/exoclipse · 1 pointr/techhelp

Ok. I'm not a network engineer - just a humble help desk guy - but there are a couple things going on here that worry me.

1.) You have two wireless access points (the two routers) interfering with each other. Any communication on the same channel is going to cause a problem. They need to either be set so that the wireless networks they create are on separate channels that don't cross over (typically 1, 6, and 11), OR turn the Wifi off on the XyZel.

2.) The Nighthawk is an incredibly fast router. The XyZel is no slouch either. But bad things happen when you connect a router to a router without doing some configuration. I've never done such a thing, nor would I ever have a reason to, so I don't know how to configure a dual-router environment. It's my thought that this may contribute to your slow speed.

3.) From the way you described, it sounds like you guys just needed more ethernet ports? You don't want a router for that. You want a switch instead. No config needed - just plug it into any avail. ethernet port on your router and you've got 8 extra ports.

My recommendation: Disconnect either the XyZel OR the Nighthawk from your network. The Nighthawk is faster, and should work fine with minimal configuration if you connect it to the modem. Then get a switch and plug it in if you need more ethernet ports than you have.

The only environments I've seen which have had multiple routers in the same network were universally large, enterprise networks with multiple subnets and redundant circuits.

u/ClassH · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

The erl setup is a little more involved, need to hit the IP directly in a web browser. For a switch i just use a dumb switch to keep everything simple and fast.;amp;qid=1479318855&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=netgear+gigabit

u/anamznazn · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

What they're offering is the "Legrand 1054" router/switch if I do their package. Anything special about this one?

Couldn't I just use this Netgear Router/Switch instead?;amp;psc=1

u/itswhateveryo · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I assume you want a cheap, easy managed switch so I would recommend this one. It's nothing great but the fact that it is managed and under $30, it's a good deal. If you need something larger than 5 ports, it has an 8 port option as well.

If you want something a little better, look at the Ubiquiti line.

u/evonb · 1 pointr/homelab

Isn't that just the E model?

u/Try_Sometimes_I_Dont · 1 pointr/techsupport

Its...basically a switch but I would call it a completely retarded switch lol. No settings or anything.

One of the reviews had a smart idea:

&gt;Best to start with no power to switch or modem; do ALL your connecting; turn on the power to switch and modem; restart your computer. It will take a few minutes for it to "learn". And if you add anything after that point be sure to restart the switch power again.

As dumb as it is, it might not do well with devices being connected while its on. Have you tried that?

If you want a better but cheap $30 switch (a real switch) this would work:

A better option for a bit more would be this one:

Either one should work but the netgear one is better than the tp link one. As is generally the case between those two companies.


If it was me, I'd go with this one. By far the best in the $50 ish price-range:

u/caiuscorvus · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I would try to either run sufficient cables (with or without smurf tube) to the various locations or get managed switches. This will let you pass/trunk multiple vlans to each location to better control your network setup.

You can get managed switches from $26 for 5 ports.this one is actually unmanaged. Whoops.

From $50 for 5 ports, $60 for 8 ports.

If you want to over-achieve look at the MikroTik line and run 10Gbps to each floor.

u/samwheat90 · 1 pointr/PFSENSE
u/TakeHerToFrance · 1 pointr/techsupport

It's unmanaged -;amp;th=1

The link light is not on. The other lights are on, and wifi is working, so the router is working.

u/410th · 1 pointr/AskNetsec

You can pick up an inexpensive 'Managed' switch to mirror (or SPAN) traffic from one or more ports to a different port. This should take care of your needs if you are only trying to analyze your Internet traffic. If you're doing LAN and or LAN and Internet and the traffic approaches the full 1Gbps you'll probably going to need a more powerful switch to see all the traffic.

I picked this one some time back for about $15 on sale (now $25):

u/Gergi_247 · 1 pointr/sysadmin

I have a TP-Link Archer C5 AC1200 Router, so I decided to go with this switch (TL-SG105E):;psc=1

It supposedly has VLAN support, so I'll give it a go.

u/Nemock · 1 pointr/DDWRT

I had this same problem. The thing is, for whatever reason, certain routers don't play nice enough with the Centurylink ONT. I had to purchase a cheap managed switch to add the VLAN tagging.



Setup (snipit, I believe this thread was trying to use the same router as you):

"Yes that's pretty much it and the C9 will do PPPoE.

switch port 1 -&gt; ONT

switch port 2 -&gt; C9

Port 1: Tagged member vlan 201 (only) + PVID 201

Port 2: Untagged member vlan 201 (only) + PVID 201

If using the other switch ports for your local network just make sure they never become members of 201 "

Note: if you do end up buying this model switch, make sure you choose the option to reboot it and save config. Regular saving never held the setting for me.

u/dwdunning · 1 pointr/XboxOneHelp

If your PC is a desktop, you can buy an HDMI-to-whatever input your monitor has adapter and switch the cable out to play X-box. If it's a Laptop (no video input) or you just don't like that option, there are a few choices.

  1. With multiple LAN adapters on the PC (WiFi and wired) you should be able to
    a) connect the PC to the internet via WiFi
    b) connect the PC to the Xbox via cable (I highly recommend getting an inexpensive Ethernet switch here to plug in between the two)
    c) from network and sharing center choose "change adapter settings" right click the WiFi adapter and choose properties, then the "sharing" tab and select "allow other other network users to connect through this computer's internet connection" this should allow the Xbox to go through to the internet.

  1. if there's a wired connection to the network that has the internet you can spend a few more dollars and buy a managed switch (, which would allow you to plug the PC and the Xbox both in to the switch, connect it to the internet plug and program it so that the xbox and the PC can talk to each other and the internet, but not allow other traffic into either.

  2. If it's a wired connection you could also buy a wireless access point or wireless router set to access point mode, and set up a mini WiFi network that only you have access to.

  3. Get a Wifi Range extender (, connect it to the WiFi internet source, connect the PC and the Xbox to it, either with Wireless (should have it's own SID) or with available Ethernet ports.

    Most of these will take a little configuration effort, you'll want to make sure both the PC and the Xbox are getting their IP addresses from the same place (not one from the school and one from your router) and you want to make your little Local network is isolated from the rest so you don't go assigning IP addresses to other students, but with hardware available these days it should be pretty simple and straight forward. I have not tested and do not endorse any of the products I have linked here, just chose them as examples of the type of device to look for and to show that there are inexpensive options out there.

    Good luck!
u/janre75 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

thanks, guess I'm ordering more cable (used it to run the first line) and a switch. thanks for the help

u/Virtualization_Freak · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

5 port. $20 shipped. New.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch in Metal Case - Essentials Edition (GS305-100PAS)

u/Tesseract91 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

If you aren't on a tight budget you might want to go prosumer and you could look into separating the router into it's components parts rather than an all in one. For example:

  • Ubiquiti ER-X
  • Ubiquiti Unifi NanoHD
  • Any dumb multiport switch


    The NanoHD is totally overkill for an apartment but once it's setup you'd likely never have wifi issues ever again. You can check out the Lite and Pro models as cheaper options but the NanoHD is the newest. Setup isn't as trivial as your run of the mill router but you don't need to be a sysadmin either. I've seen the ER-X go down to $50 at memory express before and it's an excellent router.
u/PriceKnight · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Price History

u/mohajaf · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks a lot for your help so far.
My cable modem/wireless router is Netgear C6220.
I am planning on buying a NETGEAR Wi-Fi Range Extender EX3700.
Also, a NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305)
Would you call that the right gear.
It'd be amazing if I could figure out the way to have a single SSID and password across the house.

E: I already saw on Amazon comments that EX3700 isn't a mesh mode AP and thus can't be used with the same SSID. Will continue searching for a better alternative and appreciate recommendations (I know about Google WiFi but I'll rather something from Netgear , Linksys, etc.)

u/onastyinc · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

yeah. def!

or these if you prefer metal casing.

TP-Link TL-SG105


u/gokufire · 1 pointr/PleX

I have these cables on my network:;me=



This switch NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS305). This router Google. This modem NETGEAR Gigabit Cable Modem (32x8) DOCSIS 3.1 (CM1000-1AZNAS)

u/5UpMoto · 1 pointr/Windows10

Spend the $20 and do it the right way man. If your pc is connected over wifi and you bridge it to Ethernet and plug it into your Xbox you’ll get the same or worse speed/latency than if you connected the Xbox via wifi. Get a small switch and a couple patch cables and do it the right way.

u/grumpieroldman · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That doesn't make it "impossible" it makes it easy.
Buy a couple of Netgear switches.


One thing to possibly consider is getting a wifi access-point and use that for the 4/5-port switch and extend the wifi to upstairs.

u/alopexc0de · 1 pointr/networking

You could get by with something like this. Doesn't have a fan, and thus the only place it can make a noise would be the power brick. Those sometimes (but pretty rarely) have a slight hum to them.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Desktop, Internet Splitter, Sturdy Metal, Fanless, Plug-and-Play (GS305)

u/njgreenwood · 1 pointr/gadgets

Little late to the party on this but maybe a dumb switch would work for you. If you don't need or want to setup a different VLAN or anything. You can get a pretty cheap switch at Best Buy or on Amazon. It just gives you more ports to work with, your router still handles dishing out all the IP addresses and such.

u/datanut · 1 pointr/lanparty

I recommend a real switch. No telling how a real switch will compare to a home router. Switches are cheap, fast, and handy to have around!

u/orbitsjupiter · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I think you're just trying to get two computers physically connected to one Ethernet port, correct? You don't need VLAN support for that.

Is this Ethernet port on your modem?

If it is on your modem, you need to buy a router. Most consumer routers have more than 1 port on them so that should be all you need.

If the port is not on your modem, you need to buy a switch. This Netgear switch is the highest rated one on Amazon and it (or something similar) would be enough to get you the extra ports you need.

u/Saales0706 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I ended up going with this. It is a Gigabit switch, so that's good! Most of the time it'll probably be one PC or the other in use. My secondary is going to be primarily used by my girlfriend for school work (which she usually gets done while I'm at work), and occasionally by my friends to join me in games like League of Legends and Overwatch.

I appreciate your responses! Have a great day!

u/Paroxysm_Rancor · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

If ease of use is your thing then get the USG, 8 port UniFi switch, and an AP-AC-LR, The AP-AC-LR's have both 2.4/5Ghz bands.

You can get two AP-AC-LR's and UPLINK the second from the first one if you are unable to run Ethernet.

No need to add a router off the switch as it will segregate the networks. I.E. Create two networks. And it's rather pointless.

Just buy a second access point.

What sq ft are you trying to cover? 1 AP-AC-LR can relatively cover a 1500 sqft 1 story wood/plaster home.




u/hatran2 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Could you look over these parts and let me know if I'm missing anything? Would I just be monitoring this stuff at my desktop that's wired in or would I need something else to control all this? I'm not sure on which switch I need.

Fiber connection&gt;Gateway/Router&gt; Switch 1 or Switch 2 &gt; ethernet &gt; AP

I am being pushed towards the in wall AP cause the fiance doesn't like things poking out from our ceiling and I was told wall mounting them doesn't work as well. From looking on their forums the UAP-AC-IW-PRO beta testers have said they are getting surprisingly good signal from their in wall AP since they have better antennas. But if I was able to go the UAP-AC-PRO route ceiling mounted how many and where would you suggest I place them?

So this is my home layout. I assumed these were the best places to put them. The red arrows show which direction the AP will be facing from the wall and the blue box is where everything terminates and I'm assuming that's where the gateway and switches will be. The ethernet drops in the living room and game room are higher up then the rest. I can have an updated picture of where all the ethernet drops are around my house if that would help.

The bedrooms near the front of the house aren't currently being used so I'm not to focused on them but I could always go back and add another AP later in that area right?

This seems like it's going to blow through my $500 budget but I'm assuming it's worth it over getting something like the Eero 2nd generation?

u/MoistDinoDung · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti
u/visionik · 1 pointr/computing

Yes as you said below, you really don't want a "mesh" network. That means something totally different.

You just want PoE access points that can do hand-of, which UniFI can do for sure. I use UniFI at my house and it's 100% worth it. Either of these will work:

but the first one (the NanoHD) is newer and supports 802.11ac wave2.

With unifi you really should go all-in with unifi equipment. That's when the system works best. I'd recommend this PoE switch:

You get 8 ports of PoE ethernet and two SFP ports. You can turn the SFP ports into two more RJ45 gigabit ethernet ports (without PoE) with these:

Alternatively, if you need many more ports or want something rack-moutable, I'd use this switch:

You'll also need a computer that's always on somewhere in your house to run the UniFI controller software. The controller is how you configure and track everything. It's really light-weight, so it can just run in the background on a desktop or some old Mac or PC.

Alternatively you can just plug a "UniFI Cloud Key" controller into one of your PoE ports:

One caveat, if you use the cloud key make sure you back up your unifi database (on the controller) often. I've had them fail on me more than I like.

Finally, if you don't like any of those you can use a hosted instance of the cloud controller but it's $199 a year:

u/tacol00t · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

I have an 8 port ubiquiti one that's the full 8 port 150w one if you're interested.

Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W)

That one to be exact. I think I have the OEM box as well but I could be wrong, feel free to PM

u/bayates826 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Which Ubiquiti cameras are you using? The dome cameras support both standard PoE and 24V while the G3 series only support 24V.

This Ubiquiti switch does both.

I realise you are trying to save money, but not a lot of switches do the 24V option if that is what you will need. Have you considered just using PoE injectors? That would be the cheapest way IMO.

u/devianteng · 1 pointr/homelab

I use UniFi cameras. Got a couple UVC-Micro's, and recently bought 2 of the new UVC-G3's that I haven't gotten around to using yet. I really like the software.

The Micro's are wireless, so no need for PoE.
UVC-G3 only works with 24V Passive PoE (injector included), but the UVC-G3-DOMEalso supports 802.3af PoE (or 24V Passive). Not sure why the UVC-G3 can't do 802.3af, but either way, injectors are included or you can get one of the 24/48 port switches that support PoE, or their Switch 8. If you're only looking at 1-3 cameras, I'd just use the injectors and keep them close to your switch (i.e., in your rack or whatever you have).

No idea what the IR range is with the UVC-G3, but they do have a range extender (UVC-G3-LED) that is rated for up to 82ft. Ring is kinda pricy, IMO. Most of my Micro's are indoors, but I do have one on the porch that does pretty decent at night, but will soon be replaced with a UVC-G3.

Overall I'm happy with them. I have several Ubiquiti products, and never really had any showstopper issues with any of them.

u/majorchamp · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

So how can I do this without spending $180 for a poe switch?

u/Fitz9099Mon · 1 pointr/homelab

Unifi US-8-150 switch may fit your quest - 8 gbe and 2 sfp ports with all the 8 ports supporting POE. But you need an UniFi Controller to manage it.
And it is worth looking into Mikrotik, they make some fanless switches that are inexpensive.

u/ilikedamoney · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
u/kur1j · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Excuse the ignorance but what is the advantage of this switch over something like TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit PoE Web Managed Easy Smart Switch with 4-PoE Ports (TL-SG108PE)

In addition what is the difference once this switch compared to another one of ubiquitis switches? Ubiquiti Networks 8-Port UniFi Switch, Managed PoE+ Gigabit Switch with SFP, 150W (US-8-150W)

u/Wadeace · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

first off, don't rent a router from your ISP. you will need to use a modem or gateway depending on the type of internet you are getting. if you are using cable or dsl i would also suggest to buy your own modem as well. it's a modern version of renting a rotary phone from the company and a racket.

you can get a router and wifi combo that is new and good for about $150 or more for faster or more advanced features.

as far as game plan for your home here is my suggestions
to start you off since you just moved in and are already renting it for now just use the provided router from to fiber provider so you can get connected and plan the rest of this build out.

depending on the layout and size of your home (cinder block construction is terrible for wifi and other rf signals) you may need multiple access points. my suggestion is to look into a brand of networking equipment called ubiquity.

they are relatively new to the market and have really shaken up the price and feature packs. set up is mainly through a web and mobile app and is very easy for a relatively new person to IT. there is also a huge community here on reddit and youtube showing off features and giving how to's.

here is my goto suggestion if you are willing to invest in an infrastructure more than a single router.

the fiber will come into your property and go through a modem and gateway provided by the isp you would then plug it into a router:;amp;qid=1526552321&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=unifi

This is a smaller model that is a router and firewall combo by ubiquity, its about 110 at amazon

Then you plug the router into a switch:;amp;qid=1526552321&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=unifi

This is a sort of backbone device that you would use to send the internet to other devices and for other devices to comunicate with each other. this one is a poe switch which means it can send power to some devices like access points over the one cat 5 cable. this one has 8 ports so that means 7 outboard devices can be connected to the network because one is needed for the router. they make larger ones with more ports for more devices. this model is currently 194 on amazon

you will then need access points:;amp;qid=1526552321&amp;amp;sr=8-5&amp;amp;keywords=unifi

these are radios that broadcast wifi to your wireless devises these connect to the switch with cat 5 cables and are best placed near where you are going to use wifi devises the average home would benefit from two or three of these one to cover the living room kitchen great room area and one to cover the bedroom hallway are and possibly one for the backyard pool area (that might be important because of your external walls). this model is currently 80 on amazon.

if you deploy this list you will also need a cloud key:;amp;qid=1526553343&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=cloud+key

this is a devise that manages the network and stores configuration files locally. it's like a mini server. this is about 78 on amazon.

you will also need cat 5/6/7 cables of various lengths and a power strip for about 500 you can get a really great network that can cover your whole house and that can easily be upgraded incrementally as technology improves. My suggestion would be to get all this mounted in a closet somewhere and get cat5/6/7 run to all the things that you can and place the access point in the house so you get the best coverage possible for the IOT devises in your house. as your network grows and you need more wired ports you can add a switch or replace the one with a 24 or 46 port one. when wifi tech improves past ag you can just replace the access points without affecting the rest of the network.another big thing is to run cable to anything you can this will help with keeping your wifi fast since there are less devices on the wifi.

If there are two main points they would be:

  1. wire everything you can so that way the devises that need to be wireless can be faster
  2. Don't rent non-proprietary equipment from your ISP
u/AlmondNut · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Did you get anywhere with this? I have a mesh Google WiFi setup running now with cable Internet and want to switch over to CenturyLink fiber. Need to do the VLAN tagging with a switch in between the ONT and router of the main Google WiFi device. I have the Ubiquiti UniFi switch below. How do I set this up?;amp;psc=1

u/andro7star · 1 pointr/networking
u/Insanereindeer · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

From my experience, cheap POE switches are just frustrating. They lock up and have to be restarted frequently. You get what you pay for. I bought a Zxyell GS1910-24HP for $50 off ebay that I've had zero issues with. If you want new, I recommend you just match the company you have equipment from. Buying a 10/100 switch in 2019 is just ridiculous.


u/Glynnryan · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

TL/DR: a bit of background and personal experience ultimately suggesting that you run some network cable, and look into a full Ubiquiti setup with USG router, PoE switch &amp; NanoHD Wi-Fi AP’s for around $400 including cabling, provided you’re not planning on upgrading your internet to faster than 1Gbps soon.

I’m not familiar with coax cable internet, but assume you can get some sort of Ethernet handoff from your modem?

Either way, make the effort and run some CAT6 cabling for Wi-Fi AP’s, and key devices too if possible.

My network setup in my 1150 square foot apartment, works perfectly on my 200Mbps fibre connection and would cost you around $483 for the following:

u/estrangedpulse · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

So does this 150w accepts simpler ethernet connection from my router? Anyways, this is 200$ solution. Seems so expensive just for a switch. I was thinking I will get away with something cheaper. If I use 60w 8 port switch with 4 PoE, like this (, can i plug in my non-PoE router in it? I could get 3 cams + cloud key 2 then.

u/magibeg · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

In the event I take the Ubiquity route I just wanted to make sure I knew what I was jumping into. So as I see it I just require the following pieces:



Then download the controller and i'm good to go I think with a little bit of wiring and mounting.

u/projxit · 1 pointr/homelab

Its called the Unifi Dream Machine, but looks like its only "Early Access" at the moment, which basically means you'd be Beta testing, but I've only heard positive things, with people saying its a lot more powerful than the USG (specifically for using things such as the IPS).

But to answer you questions:

  1. Correct, these are Layer-2 only, you need the USG/PFSense for the routing. Why do you need POE? The Unifi AP's come with a POE-Injector. Also, be aware the 16 Port switches have fans, which can generate noise, so you will probably want to stash it away (in a cupboard or garage etc).

    Personally, I do use POE, but I use their 8 Port Swich with 4 POE ports (their cheap-cheap version), along with this, I have their standard 8 port switch, see below:

    8 Port, with 4 POE:

    8 Port, None POE:


    Cloud Key Controller:

    You don't need the last one, but I find it useful, as it gives you a physical device and it saves having to spin up a seperate VM or Rasperberry Pi for it.. And its pre-baked, you plug it in and go!

  1. Yes. You could actually even do this with 1 NIC... Thats is what I do, I just put WAN onto a seperate VLAN... After all, its just another "security zone", just like each of you internal VLANs, the reason you use VLANs, is to control routing between them.. My Virgin Hub, plugs into a port, which is Untagged on VLAN-1000, has no other VLANs assigned, the only other place that has this VLAN is my Firewall VM.

    Some people will cry "danger", and they have a point, if you are not 100% confident in what you are doing, its better to use separate NICs for LAN and WAN. This also has another issue, if you've only got 1Gb NICs, and its carrying both LAN and WAN, you've got a bottleneck (On my servers, I use 10Gbe, so I don't have that issue).
u/JCandle · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yes correct. If you have a little more wiggle room on your budget I’d add a POE switch to power the AP and give you more Ethernet ports.

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

u/_munchbutt · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Ahh, since I do have an ac1750 in possession, would it be good enough to just skip the ac1900 instead? That way, I would have a bigger budget when I do plan on switching to the Ubiquiti APs.

Planning to get the USG, switch, and one or two APs. What else will I need?

u/certifiedintelligent · 1 pointr/networking

So, by all rights I would heavily recommend getting a professional to do this for you, they will be available to help with any issues that crop up down the line. That saaaaiiidddd... you could also do this.


u/GreenChileEnchiladas · 1 pointr/techsupport

I am running Unifi 8port Switch (with the Security Gateway, et al).

Though, currently I don't have the AP connected. Turns out I never really needed wireless access.

Also, now that I consider it. The Security Gateway is the Router in this situation. I just looked closer and it does have a WAN 2 / LAN 2 port.

EDIT: Rereading my statement I didn't make it clear that the Security Gateway and the Switch were two different devices. 8 Port Switch and Security Gateway.

u/-RYknow · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I'm on my mobile right now, and navigating the ubiquiti site is kind of a pain. Will the ubiquiti 8 60w switch work with the nanobeams?


EDIT: Scratch that, I see that switch doesn't support 24v poe.

u/Hutchisonac · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So if I get the following:

Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway (USG)

Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

Ubiquiti Networks Unifi 802.11ac Dual-Radio PRO Access Point (UAP-AC-PRO-US) x2

This should be sufficient, or am I missing something?

As someone who isn't network savy, is this relatively plug and play? I can mount the access points on the ceiling and plug into the cat 6 cables. The router would then plug into my modem in the smart panel, and be connected to the switch and my 4 Ethernet lines? (2 to the access points, 1 to living room and 1 to the den/office)

u/trich101 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It would work. I personally would spend the extra 60 ($109 total) and get a 8 port switch, including 4 PoE+ ports vs $30 for 1 injector. Just a better investment for powering additional devices in the future. Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

u/automate_the_things · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It would, but you'd never be able to use it with anything else in the future, since pretty much nothing is passive 24v PoE, just legacy Ubnt gear. Even Ubnt is moving to all active PoE.

I'd get this one:

It's configurable, so it'll do both passive and active PoE, so it's future-proof.

And yes, if you have a PoE switch, you just plug the Cat5e into the switch and then into the AP and the AP is powered.

If you buy the AC-AP-LITE in 1-packs, they come with a PoE injector (single port), so aside from clogging up a few outlets and taking up space, you don't technically need a PoE switch for a couple of APs, unless you want one (tho I think the PoE switch will be lower electricity usage, but only barely).

u/ManiacFoSho · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

This would give you a few extra PoE ports to work with in the future: Ubiquiti UniFi Switch 8 60W (US-8-60W)

Keep in mind that it’s just a switch, not a router. If you need a router as well and want to stick with Unifi, you get either get an EdgeRouter (a bit daunting for beginners); otherwise you could add the Unifi Security Gateway.

If you really want to go all in, add a CloudKey so you can control your network away from home.

u/Tommy1024 · 1 pointr/homelab this one has the eight poe ports. And is able to deliver poe without poe in.

u/blackice85 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Yeah, even the US-8-60W ( wouldn't do it without the converters I linked earlier, as that can't do 24v.

Good news is that UBNT is moving away from the proprietary 24v moving forward, but in the meantime you need either a 150w+ switch, injectors, or a higher end AP like AP AC Pro, which takes the 802.3af/at standard.

So for your situation I'd consider whether you think you'll need to expand in the future and might want a bigger switch, or if you'd rather stick to a lower budget.

u/clickwir · 1 pointr/Longmont

I've got NextLight and here's what I use.

From NextLight, go into a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite, from that into a switch.

In the switch it all my wired devices, laptop, desktop, Roku, and a Ubiquiti UAP-AC-PRO for WiFi.

It all works great, very fast and my devices are the bottleneck, not my network.

It's not as simple and compact as an all in one wifi router job. But those are a jack of all types, master of none. The Ubiquiti router, switch and AP combo is far superior for performance and reliability.

u/VileBooey · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Would be nice to have a separate network for the Guest House since it might turn into a rental down the line. Here is what I am looking at to order from Amazon:

2x Nanostations

1x Ubiquiti Switch

1x Ap-AC Lite Wireless Access Point

Or keep the Nighthawk Modem/Router and eliminate the switch and access point.

u/fitness213 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So something like this Netgear switch paired with this TP-Link AP? I'd like to spend less on the switch since I only need two ports if possible.

u/misteryub · 1 pointr/OSU

So, depending on how technical you are, I'd go with this plan:

Buy a couple of these suckers: Ubiquti Unifi AC Pro These are semi-enterprise grade wireless access points: convert wired Ethernet to Wi-Fi only. One might be enough, or you might need two or three, depending on how well the signal travels.

To use this, you'll need a couple things, some you might have, some you might not:

Cat6 cable and connectors: the Ethernet cable to connect these APs. This link is for bulk cable, to make your own cabling. Keep in mind you'll want to mount these APs to a wall or ceiling. I have mine taped on the wall in the middle of my house.

Router: just use a router you already have, just turn off the Wi-Fi broadcasting on the router. Leave the Wi-Fi to the APs. The box WOW gives you will either be a modem only or a gateway (modem + router). If that's a gateway, you can use that, otherwise, just use an old router, or buy a cheap one if you don't.

Switch: if your router doesn't have enough LAN Ethernet ports to send to the APs, connect the switch to the router via one Ethernet line, and plug the APs to the switch. This is a 5 port gigabit switch, so you'd have room for 4 APs or devices. Make sure you buy Gigabit Ethernet or 10/100/1000. Don't buy Fast Ethernet or 10/100: at these speeds, you'd be limited to 100Mb/s, instead of 1000Mb/s (this WOW plan is 600Mb/s, faster than the Fast Ethernet spec).

u/zenova360 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

up to 100mbps

up to 1gbps

I personally have that Netgear one and it's been online for months without getting switched off. Rock solid.

u/icbike · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You could actually make that run with Ethernet no problem. I believe the max run for cat6 is something like 330 feet. You can even buy shielded cable and run it through conduit. Mesh systems are awesome (I have an Orbi), but they wouldn’t work well in long horizontal runs, such as this. Check out Blue Jeans Cable and they can build exactly what you need and confirm your setup would be ok. I’d buy a 5 port switch to put in your office- you’ll have all the connectivity you need.

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch, Sturdy Metal, Desktop, Plug-and-Play, ProSAFE Lifetime Protection (GS105NA)

u/Grisby5000 · 1 pointr/Network

Sounds like your cabling to the jacks supports gig. I agree with the previous posts and you should bite the bullet and run new drops.

If you want to be cheap, get some cheap unmanaged gig switches and put at each drop where you need more than one device. Get something like this Netgear switch.

u/Unrealtechno · 1 pointr/apple

My apologies, let me use an analogy: roads.

The road coming into your home can allow 15 trucks per second to bring goods into your home. These trucks could be netflix, email, porn, you name it. Anything that you view, is a car driving into your home. With that said, the road going out of your home is a like a single lane dirt road. Only 1 truck per second can bring goods out of your home. Examples are video calls or files you upload to Dropbox. Think of these two roads as North/South on a turnpike.

Imagine, once inside your home, that the roads are huge. They can accommodate 1,300 trucks per minute, but those trucks have to be from at least 2013, otherwise you can only get about 300-600 per minute. 300-600 per minute is still a lot of trucks considering that only 15 per minute can enter the home and only 1 per minute can leave it.

Where am I going with this? Realize that you don't need to get hung up on speed with routers because in your situation they will be the fastest part of the setup. The bottleneck will be the shitty TW connection :-(

The biggest benefit to you, that I can see, is the range. If you have have a big apartment or will move into on within the next year or two, get an Extreme (hell I'd get one anyway for 129, even a previous generation extreme can be found for $40-$50). If you're price sensitive, an express will serve you well, just be sure that you get a splitter which is referred to as a switch. I prefer Netgear switches, and have had the big brother to this one for about 5 years.;amp;amp;qid=1409928689&amp;amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;amp;keywords=5+port+netgear+gigabit+switch

I just realized one thing, TW usually rents out a combination modem/router. Are you getting one of those or are you buying a separate modem and router instead?

u/9gPgEpW82IUTRbCzC5qr · 1 pointr/gaming

thats correct except for the terminology. A switch will route traffic to the appropriate destination, a hub will send all traffic to all connected destinations. Hubs are outdated, you do not want to buy a hub

I have something like this in my attic:;amp;psc=1

you can connect your devices to any port, the switch will figure it out.

edit: to make it look official, you can get the right plates from home depot

wall plate:

which fits a jack like this:

u/allmen · 1 pointr/techsupport

"My question is, is there a way to take that one Ethernet connection that is going straight to the PC and put it into a splitter or something that allows me to have multiple Ethernet ports so I could hook up one to the desktop"

You can get a Switch. Yes like the person below stated. Think of it this way, if you want more then ONE computer to that area, why not have this person run 4 lines and then get a 4 Gang Wall Plate to the end of it.

So :

MODEM in room to &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; Switch 4 port &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; CABLE LINES RUN TO ROOM TO &gt;&gt;&gt;&gt;&gt; $ Gang Wall Plate and 4 rj45 ends.

Also use for Cat 6 cable.

Best of both worlds, since most ISP router modems have like 4 ports in the back for multiple connections. Also if you hire this CABLE LAYER, tell him you will buy the cable (like the one above) and save yourself a surcharge. U bet you'd pay 150$ a box or more if they come in with it.

u/IF_THEY_DONT_DANCE · 1 pointr/Comcast

Something like this would work (its what i use). A gigabit switch wont slow you down at all and should be pretty future proof. You just run one cable from your modem to the switch (input 1) and then plug your PCs into the other inputs. I would recommend running 2 cables though, if you're already running one, putting a back up cable in isnt much more trouble and will save you a lot of time if your primary cable gets cut or chewed up or anything like that, your backup would already be installed.

u/krypt_o · 1 pointr/Network

Get something like this. Plug router A into that, then plug that into router B for WiFi and your PC and w/e else you have that can be hard wired.

u/niceflipflop · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yes, that's what Gilly was suggesting. If you're going to go down the ERX path, you need to get a switch, or you won't have enough ports to work with.

But even if you get an all-in-one, a switch is a simple way to get more ports.

In fact, that's all a switch is (in simple setups like yours). It's nothing more than a cheap little device that gives your router more ports to work with.

Here's a perfectly fine one:;amp;qid=1491598413&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=5+port+switch

u/tomrb08 · 1 pointr/techsupport

You can split using a 5-port gigabit unmanaged switch to split the connection somewhere before the two rooms. Something like this Netgear

u/crackills · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

&gt;Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1459347764&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=5+port+gigabit

Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.

&gt;The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1459347852&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

Thanks! swapped for monoprice

&gt;I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.

ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.

&gt;Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1459348192&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?

So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?

&gt;Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

nice rack (giggity)

u/lefooey · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I’ve had one of these in service for the better part of 7 years with no issues whatsoever.

u/bartturner · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

I now use cheap gigabit switches. I tend to use whatever I can find on sale.

So for the remote ones I get 5 port ones that are made out of metal and get for $20 - $25 each on sale.

Down the basement and in the computer room I use 24 port switches that were more expensive but not home and do NOT remember the brand.

But I look at switches as a commodity and brand means little. Kind of the polar opposite for mesh.

The five porters look like

But I do NOT believe they are actually Netgear. But this does look exactly like them.

I usually buy a couple when I find them on sale and keep extras in the closet so we have when needed. BF is the best time to stock up for the year.

u/Evernight2021 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Something like this or this should do the job pretty easily.

u/GonthorianDX · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

&gt; I was wondering if there was an ethernet cable that splits in 2

You could always connect one end to a 5-port mini switch for roughly 25$ or even a wireless router for that matter.

u/tubezninja · 1 pointr/homeowners

&gt;The black panel (patch panel?) connects to all Ethernet ports in the house

FWIW: If you have broadband internet service, and a router with ethernet jacks, plugging an ethernet cable from the router into each of those jacks will "turn on" the ports in each of the labeled rooms, letting you plug in computers and get internet without having to use WiFi.

If your router doesn't have enough ports, you can add an ethernet switch, plugging one end of an ethernet cable into a port on your router, the other end to any port on the switch. It'll act as a "splitter" and the other empty ports on the switch will now act as additional ports coming from your router.

u/acrispytatertot · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/tuxify · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You do not need the Edgerouter-x if you are also using the Netgear AC2600 Wireless router. Only one router is needed per LAN. You will run into issues if you introduce a second router without very specific configurations.

If you are using the Netgear AC2600 as your router, you will need (instead of the Edgerouter-x) an inexpensive unmanaged Gigabit switch. Netgear also makes reliable switches ( Keep in mind that one of the Ethernet ports will have to be connected to the Netgear wireless router, so if you buy the 5 port switch, you will only be able to connect 4 devices. I recommend getting the 8 port switch (7 devices attached), as it's not much more expensive, and you'll have extra ports in case you add devices in the future.

The modem you linked should be more than enough for your internet connection. Double check with your ISP to make sure that they allow you to provide your own modem (Charter/Spectrum, Comcast/Xfinity, and most other cable ISP should allow you to bring your own modem)

u/Cyber_Rider · 1 pointr/techsupport

Here's a good switch that I use for my computer setup in my room. They are pretty inexpensive and easy to setup!

u/sparks88 · 1 pointr/Artemis

Has anyone told you that you are a badass lately? Because they really should. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this stuff.

Does the switch need to be managed? My first thought was this, but I wasn't sure if that meant I can't setup a VLAN on it.

u/Dealj0bber · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I bought a gigabit switch, so hopefully that takes my modem out of the equation if that's the roadblock. I just use my cable modem which has 4 ports on it currently.

u/jongery · 1 pointr/computers

Nothing will beat a wired connection. And you will never get that download speed on wifi... You have no access to your basement or attic to run ethernet? 100 feet is cheap.... Pair it with a 5 port gb switch for your desk would be a nice upgrade if needed...

With ~40 feet of distance, and everything in between like walls and doors, even with the best USB or PCI adapter, there will be signal loss.

A good way to test and see connectivity is to use your cell phone where your PC is located... in your web browser, or the Speed Test Ookla app... Also, I know on android, you can see the properties of the access point you are connected to and see the current speed you care connected at, ( n130, dual band n300, ac900~ish)

The Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I you linked would be a decent choice, especially being it has a better positionable antenna... Anything PCI and that type of antenna would be better than usb.

TP Link could work as well

u/DracoAzule · 1 pointr/buildapc;amp;qid=1345950806&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=netgear+switch

That's what I'm using. It came with our AT&amp;T U-Verse set up. With U-Verse TV, you're basically streaming all your TV over the same network connection, but separate from your internet plan. But this little thing handles near countless hours of HD TV streaming, torrent downloading on my laptop, and Xbox LIVE. Been switched on and going almost non stop for half a year now.

u/Crimsonseer · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks! So to make sure I understand, I'd buy something like this:

The router in my living room would then plug into one of the CAT5E wall jacks, which I'd then patch to the switch in the connection panel. Then all of the rooms I want active will also plug into the switch. Is that right?

u/birdman3131 · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

There has to be a switch or hub somewhere. ethernet can't split into multiples without one. (Technically there is a way to split into 2 but nobody actually does that.)

Is there an attic? You might try looking around where the modem goes into the wall/ceiling.

And by switch I mean one of these not a light switch.

u/Antishock · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'm just trying to say, that you don't want to use two completely different power over ethernet devices in your house.

This would be a switch:

This is a power over ethernet adapter:

u/Dark_24 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Gigabit Switch


If you want something that WILL let you configure things for gaming (like QoS to keep say videos Netflix from undermining your gaming Overwatch traffic then you want a managed Switch) but they are much more expensive..

Check this out..

u/echoskope · 1 pointr/Twitch

You need a network switch, like this one:

NETGEAR 5-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch (GS105NA)

I have a few of them that I use around the house, and so far have had really good luck with them. You can find cheaper network switches that are 10/100mpbs that would likely work just as well if you are just trying to split your internet connection.

u/nicolerork · 1 pointr/techsupport

How are you connecting right now? Through WiFi or an ethernet cable? Plug the cable directly in to your computer and test the speed. Pick up a gigabit switch and hardwire your devices.;amp;camp=1789&amp;amp;creative=390957&amp;amp;creativeASIN=B0000BVYT3&amp;amp;linkCode=as2&amp;amp;tag=httpwwwnico01-20

u/ShadowFXD · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

sorry, i put the wrong switch, it's this one that i got. By acting up i mean, some of my devices no longer see the ip cams, like my phone and one PC after I added the switch.

u/ifits2loudyoure2old · 1 pointr/homedefense

I understand the feeling of being overwhelmed. There's a lot of terminology and acronyms that can trip someone up.

It may be helpful to look up network diagrams that simplify what goes where. Here is a decent diagram.

This one is a bit less beginner-friendly.

Here is one more that also has a guide.

Basically, you have Modem -&gt; Router -&gt; Client (printer, computer, etc) and often wifi clients like smartphones. I'd recommend getting an unmanaged switch to give you more spots to hardwire cat6 devices.

u/samtheboo · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Depends on the amount of ports on the modem. A network switch will let you plug a lot of them, however the more computers that use the internet on that one modem the slower the connection will get. While possibilities are infinite, most people can't use more than 50 in their house.

u/anewprotagonist · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Will this Netgear switch be okay?

Also, since I plan to connect my MBP through my AC's wifi when it's finally setup, where should I be connecting my PS4 Pro? Should it connect through the switch as well? Or through the eth2 port? I just don't want to lose out on speed/be throttled. Thank you for your help!

u/floydfan · 1 pointr/k12sysadmin

I have this Netgear switch that has worked well in both cold and hot weather. It's in a metal cabinet mounted on a pole near our maintenance building.

One trick I've learned is that if you're concerned about cold weather, put the equipment in a small cabinet and install an incandescent lightbulb in the cabinet. This will radiate enough heat to keep everything warm enough. A guy I know uses this trick to keep his plants alive in his garage over the winter.

I also just got through installing these babies to get connectivity to our bus garage and offices. The run is just over 1/10 of a mile, and I set them up as bridged so that equipment on the remote end still finds the main building's DHCP server. I could not be happier with their performance so far.

u/Erasus · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you can, always use cat6 cable. Just pull it outside through a pvc pipe or something to protect it. Then plug in a switch (ex and plug in your devices into that + an access point for wireless. ( or

I use powerline for my desktop. These:

Depends on the wiring inside your house no no way to tell your throughput until you try it. Easy to set up, plugin both in the same room first, hit the encryption button and wait for them to pair. Then place them where you want. Do not plug into a power strip.

I get better thoughput than 802.11N wireless. Have not done any LAN tests but the utility says 300mpbs. I can stream video via Universal Media Server/DLNA to a PS3, that was impossible over wireless.

u/hab136 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

How would you find what? Ethernet cable? Amazon, Monoprice, etc. Even your local Home Depot and Lowe's would have them; they'll also have bulk cable (for making your own Ethernet cables). They also have jacks for your wall so you could go through walls cleanly. As this is an apartment, you probably don't want to make anything so permanent, but if your landlord is cool he could allow it, or he could even set it up for you.

Anyways, all that's really necessary is to get a long cable, plug one end of the cable into your router/modem combo, and then other end in your computer. That's it. You can run it along the wall, using raceway that just stick to the wall, or duct tape, or a staple gun (be sure not to pierce the cable), or however you like. Don't make the bends around corners too sharp.

If your modem/router combo only has one Ethernet port and it's in use, spend $10 on a switch and get another short Ethernet cable to connect it to your router/modem combo. If $10 is a lot of money, you could probably use your unused router as a switch by going into its settings and changing the IP so it doesn't interfere with the modem/router combo, then turning off DHCP on the unused router. Leave the "WAN" port alone and use the "LAN" ports as a switch.

u/slash_32 · 1 pointr/networking

Try getting a cheap shitty 4 port switch somewhere. But avoid anything that's called a hub instead of switch.;amp;qid=1485498323&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=4+port+switch

Your school/dorm might limit the amount of mac addresses they allow per port (dorm room) or only hand out one IP address per port(dorm room)... so if the switch option doesn't work out, try using a shitty router from best buy, craigslist, etc.

Also, study technology while in school. You'll be happy you did

u/ctarbet · 1 pointr/techsupport

You need a network switch on your desk so both computers can share the single wire. $10 fix.

u/TheCraftingKid · 1 pointr/buildapc

Some questions about wifi related things with a PC.

  1. If I want to use Ethernet, but my router is stored in another place of my house, can I use something like this to connect the Ethernet cable to? Will it be the same thing as connecting it to my router?

  2. What are wireless network adapters? I've seen the lil PCI-E ones that just connect right to the motherboard, but I don't know what they do. Do they just give you better WiFi, or what?

    Sorry for stupid questions
u/bleeps__ · 1 pointr/gtaonline
u/iTzzKoLT · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I recommend considering TP-Link switches. This 5 port gigabit switch by TP-Link;amp;qid=1465861792&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=tp+link+switch may suit your home network if you have fast internet and or send large files between boxes, even if you don't this may be the best.

I picked up my first switch from TP-Link which was a 5 port 10/100 switch until I upgraded to an 8 port gigabit switch(same design as the one I mentioned). Alternatively, you can consider;amp;qid=1465861946&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=tp+link+switchthis for a more housey kind of look with different features - just choose between Fast Ethernet or Gigabit to suit your needs.

u/dontgetaddicted · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I would put a standard gigabit switch in your bedroom, not a router. You can pick up a 4 port Netgear at Walmart for like $25. Here's on for $17 on Amazon TP-Link 5 Port Fast Ethernet Switch | Desktop Ethernet Splitter | Ethernet Hub | Plug and Play | Fanless Quite | Unmanaged (TL-SF1005D)

As far as an AP this Netgear appears decent
NETGEAR AC1200 Dual Band Wireless Access Point (WAC104)

Really you could just drop that AP in, it has a built in gigabit switch. But I prefer single use devices.

u/Lobanium · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

With a switch.

I assume your router is very far away or on a different floor from all your devices, otherwise why get these MoCA adapters.

Here's a cheap 5 port switch. You can get switches with A LOT more ports than that if you need more.

TP-Link 5 Port Fast Ethernet Switch | Desktop Ethernet Splitter | Ethernet Hub | Plug and Play | Fanless Quite | Unmanaged (TL-SF1005D)

u/makar1 · 1 pointr/DJs

You need an Ethernet Switch, as well as either a Thunderbolt-Ethernet or USB-Ethernet adapter for your laptop.

u/BitcoinAllBot · 1 pointr/BitcoinAll

Here is the post for archival purposes:

Author: Svecistan


&gt;Me and a buddy are about to buy five L3+'s within the next couple of days. We are just figuring out how to run everything at our house. We are going to buy the power supplies from bitmain for each of the miners and I'm not 100% sure how I am going to provide power to all 5 PSU's.

&gt;We are going to be setting them up in the basement with winter coming it will be quite cold down there, and there is also the circuit breaker down there. There are only a couple outlets and I'm not sure how many machines I can run off a single outlet. Is there a way to provide steady power without having problems?

&gt;The second smaller issue is getting an internet connection to all five devices. The router and modem in the house are on the top floor. I have a good internet connection averaging 100mb/s down, and a strong router which still provides decent connection in the basement. Would it be easier to set them up on a wifi connection with something like this? And then a wifi adapter going into one of the ports. I may be able to get an ethernet connection down there. If that is possible, what should I then use to connect all the miners?

u/vigneshrk · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
  1. i have an imac

  2. network switch: TP-LINK 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D)ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
u/isthattrulyneeded · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

Yep, here's the US version at 100mbps -;amp;qid=1463685994&amp;amp;sr=8-1-ac&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+hub

You can do this yourself and you don't need your ISP. Find the switch, plug in all the cables

(ISP Router)--&gt;(hub),


(hub)--&gt;(steam link)

u/jpaek1 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Then there's not really a way to do what you are asking without purchasing or acquiring an additional piece of equipment such as a router or switch/hub.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1463160785&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=4+port+ethernet+switch

Plug this device into your modem, then plug the computers into it as well.

Here's where you may run into a problem though. The modem you purchased is a straight up modem and has no DHCP or firewall/router capabilities listed. This is a security concern. Not only that, but unless your ISP will allow you to pull down multiple IP addresses only one computer will ever connect at a time.

But the setup is possible and you'd have to use Internet Connection Sharing in Windows. It is just not advisable.

What you would want to get is an actual router, something like this:;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1463160785&amp;amp;sr=1-1&amp;amp;keywords=4+port+ethernet+switch

However, that model I listed is only a 100mb so if you have really faster internet, this might bottleneck your connection and you might need to get a 1000mb (1gig) router. You would want something that handles DHCP.

What you need to specify for a better answer:

Can you spend any money and if so, what is the budget?

What is your internet speed?

u/Rickles360 · 1 pointr/PS4

I spent $10 on amazon for a 100Mb switch. If I need a nice switch I can upgrade and only be out of ten bucks. I could have spent 5 times as much and had a future proof gigabit switch with a bunch of ports but for the ps4s usage the experience would be identical. I'm not using ps4 for gigabit speed anything... So far it works great.;amp;qid=1393777552&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=Ethernet+switch

u/iCommentSomtimes · 1 pointr/techsupport

Awesome, thanks. Out of curiosity, do you know what kind of speed I will need with/in the switch to not slow me down too much?

I get something like 24Mb/s. Would a cheap splitter cause a bottleneck? Or will they all cover that?

I was looking at something like this:;amp;qid=1412096871&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+switch

u/wagon153 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

In which case, you'd want a Switch.

u/Im1ToThe337 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'm looking at one on amazon

So the switch and the router don't have to be connected at all? Or do I have to connect them in some way? The switch I've linked is quite cheap compared to a router. Does that mean there are downsides to using a switch vs. a router? Thanks for answering my questions too, by the way. I appreciate it.

u/HittmanLevi · 1 pointr/techsupport

Could I run just 1 cable and use something like this?

u/Sudzy1225 · 1 pointr/computer_help

Yes! you just need a "Switch" - here

Hopefully this is what you wanted. Where is the modem located?

EDIT: Sorry. I Re-read what you said. I get it now lol

EDIT 2: rethinking this - it would depend on if the cable coming through the wall is a straight through, or a crossover cable. A crossover isn't "Ideal" but IN MY EXPERIENCE works just fine.

u/jamielfc1994 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Would this do the job? TP-LINK TL-SF1005D Five Port 10/100 Mbps Unmanaged Desktop Switch

u/xyzzzzy · 1 pointr/Internet

Points for creativity but you're making this way too hard. Buy a cheap Ethernet switch and call it a day TP-LINK 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D)

If you don't have an Ethernet port in the laptop Cable Matters 202023 USB 2.0 to 10/100 Fast Ethernet Network Adapter (Black)

u/Frenesy · 1 pointr/italy

Quale sarebbe la differenza tra Switch e prolunga? Perché è differente scegliere tra Switch e Cavo?

Non posso cambiarlo perché l'ho comprato di 12 metri 2 mesi fa pagandolo 20+euro e ora non voglio pagare altri 20+ euro per un cavo di 13 metri. SONO VERY MAD PER LA MIA POCA LUNGIMIRANZA.

u/gunzor · 1 pointr/techsupport

A good 5-port, 10/100 switch for under $10 is the TP-Link TL-SF1005D.

Under $20 is the TL-SG105, which is 10/100/1000.

u/fukitol- · 1 pointr/networking

Don't use a splitter (basically a non-switched hub). This will introduce tons of network latency. You can get this switch for $10

u/TheMoronWhisperer · 1 pointr/computers

&gt; While you can technically split an Ethernet connection, a switch is a cleaner solution.

I know nothing about switches, so I googled it. It turns out I meant a switch, not a splitter. Here's an example:;amp;qid=1499784992&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+splitter+1+to+4

&gt;For WiFi just look for devices with 5Ghz and support for things like band steering and MIMO (multiple input/multiple output streams, basically improving speeds).

So, if I look for at least those minimum specs, it shouldn't matter what I get then? I'm not a power user and I don't upload much beyond consumer level stuff. I'm just trying to update my router so I don't have drops and I won't have reset it regularly.

u/PM_ME_UR_SCOOTER · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Don't bother with 2 ports, just get a 5 port. I own two of these gigabit switches but if you want to cheap out with a 100mbit switch, here's the one,

Make sure to get 2 more Ethernet cables when you order.

u/LolFishFail · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That's so weird, I was editing my post about switches as you left your comment.

I will need about 5 ports on a switch, for a PC and other bits and bobs, even games consoles possibly for downtime gaming.

So these are the ones I'm looking at: and

Could you rundown the step by step process to set this up? Also, what's your solution when it comes to the possibility of a power surge in bad weather etc...

Are there special surge protectors for that sort of thing, since a cable will be trailed outdoors.

Thank you for replying! I appreciate it.

u/tilldrop · 1 pointr/DJs

The (expensive) hardware solution with Serato: Get a Rane SL 2,3 or 4 interface. That will allow you use the CDJ2000s like some bigger sized DDJ platters/controllers with Serato.

The (free, but maybe time intensive) software solution with Rekordbox: Download Rekordbox, reorganize your library in Rekordbox (this might help) and either

u/felixpeitsche · 1 pointr/xbox

You just need to connect the xboxes with a LAN cable. U may need an adapter since you want to connect 3 consoles. I'm not sure if you can play online when consoles are connected by LAN.



u/entropylaser · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

Cheers for the reply. Assuming you're referencing this one?

u/bujuhh · 1 pointr/smashbros

hmm.. interesting then. So with a network switch such as this I could just plug it in through my 1 ethernet port in my room and then just plug in my switch/pc from that? Or does this switch need to connect directly to the router? Because the router is in the living room at my apartment and cant exactly move it to my room

u/Actor117 · 1 pointr/techsupport

A switch will allow everything connected to it to connect to the internet at the same time. Each device will receive its own IP address from the DHCP service in your router.

That device you mentioned sounds like it might be a switch? Most basic switches can be purchased for around $20 and will have 4 ports total. One coming in from the router and 3 available to other LAN devices/equipment.

Edit: here's an example of a cheap switch for $10;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1496466613&amp;amp;sr=1-4&amp;amp;keywords=switch

u/Mobscenee · 1 pointr/buildapc

Was looking at this (;amp;qid=1457406541&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=tp+link+switch) Still thinking of buying a 100ft Ethernet cable and running it as it could be better than a switch. Most people recommend the switch though. I have TP Link repeater and used a ethernet cable connected from it and it was still lagging.

u/s0m3f00l · 1 pointr/fireTV

buy a 10 dollar unmanged switch like this one

plug one cable into the LAN or the conection going to the WIFI ROUTER/internet. one cable into the server. one cable into the FIRETV.


u/Got_ist_tots · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks! I will switch to a switch. Anything particular to look for? Something simple like this: switch
Anything I need to do to set things up? Thanks again!

u/Bbrown43 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yeah, MoCA would definitely be the best option but I don't think it would be that plausible with the location of my coaxial outlets. The Orbi is pushing the budget a little bit, but at the end of the day, I think I'll bite the bullet and try this out, and if it ends up sucking Amazon has a great return policy.

Now I know you mentioned how Google WiFi is just managed extenders above, so I assume that means you think I'd be better off going with the Orbi? They're both close to $300, so I want to make sure I'm going with the best choice here. If it makes any difference, these networks are pretty much gonna be only used for Hue, Google Home, and Alexa, and Phones and tablets and maybe the occasional laptop, never really for gaming or VoIP. Gaming and VoIP will be through the powerlines.

And when it comes to the powerline adapters I have setup currently, should I just keep using those, upgrade them, or move to wireless? I have one of the powerlines hooked up to a TP-Link Switch, and I don't know if that's a no-no either, or a bottleneck on my speeds. I know they aren't optimal, but I think its the best option I have for stability. And when I upgrade, should I leave those plugged into the modem, or to the new APs?

Thanks so much once again!

u/augustinecpu · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Ooh boy

As a jr network engineer I got a slight chub reading this.

You need, like you said, an ethernet hub.

But now they aren't called hubs, they're called switches. And technically they serve the same function as a hub, but in a complete different and more efficient way.

Long story short, buy something like this.

You may want to buy the "gigabit" version if you are paying for faster speeds.

u/GGImBatman · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thanks, do you mean something like this?

u/Terribl3Tim · 1 pointr/PS4

I use a powerline adapter which then goes to a switch and everything in my entertainment centre is connected to the switch.

I use cheap powerline adapters and a £6 TP-Link switch I got of Amazon. All wired up with dirt cheap cat5 cable I took from work.

The switch isn't necessary for you but worth considering as it gives you expansion options.

If anyone comes on here suggesting you use Cat 6 or 7 and need to buy expensive adapters then tell them to fuck off. I'm a 32 year old senior IT technician with 10+ years of experience and when it comes to home networking you don't need anything fancy to get a good setup.

EDIT: these TP-Link 600 Mbps Nano Powerline Adapter Starter Kit, No Configuration Required, UK Plug (TL-PA4010KIT V1.20) - Pack of 2

And this: TP-LINK TL-SF1005D 5-Port 10/100 Mbps Unmanaged Desktop Switch - White

u/nab_illion · 1 pointr/PS4

just get a switch and long ethernet cables. Speeds on wifi are never stable even with expensive gaming router

u/karybdus · 1 pointr/ASU

So sorry! Yesterday got really busy. I got this in the five port switch

u/Gawd129 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Looks like I was mistaken. I was reading reviews for this TP-Link 5-Port Fast Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SF1005D) and one said it was only half, but now I see they were wrong.

Though I do have another similar question. I suspect it's worth the extra few bucks to get a 1000Mb switch over a 100. Any compelling reason I might be wrong about that?

u/rtey31 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Then go with something cheap like this one. It's kind of like a power splitter for ethernet. You can also go with the gigabit ethernet version if you have a very fast connection, though I doubt that your dorm does.

u/Puptentjoe · 1 pointr/gtaonline

All my stuff is hard wired, not a fan of wireless, so everything near my tv is routed through a switch. You can disconnect the wire that connects the switch to the router and that will kick you out of your session into one with just you.

Here's a cheap switch if you want one.

u/sew3521 · 1 pointr/Hue

Here you go;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1450904836&amp;amp;sr=1-2

The Hue comes with an Ethernet cord. You will need an extra one to go from the router to the switch though. So buy one of those, unless you have an extra at home.

u/JamieOnUbuntu · 1 pointr/BitcoinMining

A single S5 is going to be much more power efficient than running three S3s. If you have free/very cheap power then go with the S3s, otherwise get an S5.

Two 750w power supplies should work fine, just make sure that you have enough PCI-E ports, and that you don't connect the same blade to two separate power supplies.

You can run them off one Ethernet port from your router if you get a basic network switch like this or this.

Hope this helped!

u/xomm · 1 pointr/bladeandsoul

&gt; I cannot use an ethernet cable because the only cable left is used by my family member.

10 bucks fixes this problem

u/xAragon_ · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Thanks a lot!

My switch is 802.3x so I guess I can't use it to power the Pi if I get the PoE HAT :/

u/snorkelbagel · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You got gigabit lan ports on the modem. You don’t need a full router unless you want to extend your wifi or something.

You need this for $10- TP-Link 5 Port Fast Ethernet Switch | Desktop Ethernet Splitter | Ethernet Hub | Plug and Play | Fanless Quite | Unmanaged (TL-SF1005D)

This is only 100 Megabit ports, the Gigabit port models are around $20. But with the way ADSL speeds drop off, and unless you do a lot of internal file moving, the cheaper option will probably be fine.

Find a rj45 (ethernet) socket in whatever room the modem is in, should be in the wall, run a cable from wall to one of the LAN ports on the modem/router unit, then run a cable upstairs from wall to switch, and then a cable to your computer, xbox, whatever.

u/xXblain_the_monoXx · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

TP-Link 5 Port Fast Ethernet Switch | Desktop Ethernet Splitter | Ethernet Hub | Plug and Play | Fanless Quite | Unmanaged (TL-SF1005D)

u/ensum · 1 pointr/techsupport

If you have Ethernet going to the room, you might be able to use the modem as a switch. Try plugging Ethernet from your Nighthawk into the Modem switch ports and plug another device into the modem and see if that device is able to connect. It may or may not work, but it's worth a shot. Otherwise you can pickup a 10/100 switch for like 10 bucks probably.;amp;qid=1501633027&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=10%2F100+switch

Local link speed maxes out at 100mbps though.;amp;qid=1501633027&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=10%2F100%2Bswitch&amp;amp;th=1

Gig switches are a little more but imo probably worth it in the long run.

u/ClpReddit · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
u/aschwan41 · 1 pointr/CarletonU

Another thing that you can use is a Network Switch. This is the one that I use. As far as I am aware, it is like a router, but without the wifi.

u/billdanski · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Not sure , but it seems like the problem is with the Connectify software. I would suggest just getting a switch

u/mareksoon · 1 pointr/Hubitat

I'm pleased to report back all delays I saw have ceased!

In case others have similar issues ... here's my LAN hardware.

None of my switches are managed, so unfortunately, I can't check port status or force them to 100/full.

Dropped pings and random Alexa timeouts only happen when Hubitat is connected to a switch port on my wireless router, a Buffalo WZR-1750DHP. With this device, I have no control over LAN port speed or duplex (from GUI or CLI); only WAN. I can't even see LAN port current status.

Everything is fine when Hubitat is connected to either one of the cheap-o switches I have connected to the WZR-1750DHP. For the record, those are:

TP-Link TL-SG1005D 5-Port Gigabit Switch

TP-Link TL-SF1005D 5-Port Fast Ethernet Switch

Thanks again for your guidance! I came from a first-gen Wink hub, giving up on them after all the recent outages. I'm loving all I'm able to do with Hubitat so far. The only thing left on Wink is my Quirky Power Pivot, which is headed to the curb along with the Wink hub once I get new smart switched outlets in place.

u/ghoulsnest · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I have the same Problem and this thing fixed it.

Its as simple as it can get

u/sageofshadow · 1 pointr/Cinema4D

&gt; Mod Answer

I had to remove this as this question is more of a /r/hardware or /r/buildapc kinda question (or any of those other PC focused subs) and not really a /r/cinema4d question - as what it's really asking is:

"how do I network 2 computers together"

..... But I know alot of those big tech subs can be a bit noob-question hate-y so I'll still help you out. You'll still get my messages in here, this thread just wont be in the subreddit.

&gt; Fellow-Redditor Answer

.... I think you're confusing internet(global network) and ethernet(local network). either way...this question hurts my brain a little. I'm trying to figure out what kind of setup you would have that would allow one machine to be connected to the internet, and the other not even to your ethernet (network)... so by extension I can figure out what to recommend to you O.o

The only thing I can see is that you have a desktop connected directly to an old ISP provided router that does not support wifi or have additional ethernet ports. like this.


You live in a dorm room. and thus, only have the wall mounted ethernet port to get onto your university network.


I can give you a long answer explaining everything so you understand - or I can give you a short answer......but either way more information on what your gear is and whats available to you and where this question is coming from would really help in giving you a better recommendation.

But immediate Short answer?

Buy this. or better yet This

connect them with Cat5e or Cat6 ethernet cables.

I can give you the long answer too, or probably a better recommendation if you explain the situation a little more.


u/mtbrdr99 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Yeah, it sounds like you need a Ethernet hub. This usually does the trick, though there can be some issues with ip addresses...

u/Jeffbx · 1 pointr/techsupport

Few more details -

Are you just trying to connect 2 machines together? If so, you need a crossover ethernet cable.

Are you trying to add a 2nd computer to the same network that your primary machine is on? If so, you need a switch &amp; a couple more cables.

u/greensparten · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/stevenw84 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So those cat5 splitters online won’t work for hooking up multiple devices?

Would something like this be good enough? I assume go from modem to this, then 4 out.;amp;qid=1511819815&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+splitter&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=31MyMUZYhhL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

u/Mthrboard · 1 pointr/perktv

I use this one

u/AtheistCreationist · 1 pointr/news

i have this if i remember correctly if i was say streaming on laptop and on a console gaming wont the ping of the game be hindered by the laptop?

as both are going down the same cable?

u/Infranix · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi


In my opinion, you should try getting a good LAN switch device with multiple ports. This switch from TP-Link is common and should be just fine. You should choose one with enough ports for your project if you need more, as the one linked only has 5 ports.

You should be alright with any decent LAN switch you can find online!

Good luck with your project! :)

u/A_AzianBubbleTea_C · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Here is the product page on Amazon

u/RedBehrend · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Not sure if serious or a troll, just put it on a switch?

Also Ubiquiti can cover that 500mbs easy for the same price and give you better wifi.

u/p_sweezy · 1 pointr/BitcoinMining

You'll need a router one way or another to connect multiple devices to a single internet connection, so no, you can't directly connect it to your PC.

I don't know what kind of setup you have, but here's mine in case it helps. I have a wifi router that I use for my home network. My miners connect to from the garage wirelessly, using a TP-Link N300 travel router (;amp;psc=1) in bridge mode connected to a TP-Link 5 port switch (;amp;psc=1). If you have a wireless router and a single miner that is out of wired range, you can connect the N300 directly to the miner with an ethernet cable and put it in bridge mode to get the miner on the network wirelessly. If it's within wired range you'd just connect it directly to the router.

My setup was pretty much plug and play with DHCP, but YMMV.

u/TheSkyAndTheCosmos · 1 pointr/networking

Hi. I have a very basic/beginner question about a networking problem I am having at home.

My house is hardwired and I am using two ethernet switches to feed the cables through my house. My modem and router are in my living room. From there, they feed up to the closet in my bedroom to the first ethernet switch. That ethernet switch connects to the other rooms in the house. The second ethernet switch is in my office.

I am supposed to be receiving 100mbps downloand and 10 mbps upload. For years, we have gotten 60 and 10. The last time I inquired about this, the technician said it was because of my ethernet switches. I was using these and today I upgraded to these, thinking that the higher speed on the port capacity would allow me to get better speeds.

Clearly I am not educated enough in this area and I am missing something, because my speeds did not change at all. Can anyone help point me in the right direction? Am I looking at the wrong things to fix the issue?

u/ImLuckyOrUsuck · 1 pointr/computers

This is what I used, cheap and seems to do the trick.

u/opeth10657 · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

buy a cheap unmanaged switch

Just plug one of the cables from the router into it, then plug another from the switch to your PCs

u/Jremy2001 · 1 pointr/OnHub

Here's my device I ordered.

u/thatgermanperson · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Do you mean ethernet routers/switches? That's definitely preferable to wireless network. Pretty much any would do, make sure it's (at least) matching your motherboard's ethernet speed. This is an example.

u/anthrax704 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Get a 4 port switch from tp link or similar. Plug in the feed from the powerline and your 2 PC's

This one will work

u/Basicly_It · 1 pointr/techsupport

Unless your downloading something important like an update and you make sure to press-down the tab on the plug of your cable before you unplug it then your PS4, Ethernet cable, and PC should all be fine.

EDIT: here's a decent no-hassle Ethernet switch (;amp;qid=1518680831&amp;amp;sr=8-4 ) and some extra cat 7e cables to make life easier (;amp;psc=1 )

u/TyroneTheWhiteWIzard · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ok if you need this build now then what I suggested will do very good, the only reason to spend more time would be to drop the price by a few dollars, but you can get away with this one.

[Here is the switch I used] (;amp;qid=1404190845&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+switch+10%2F100%2F1000)

And [Here is an alright 100 ft cord] (;amp;qid=1404190880&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+cord+100ft)

And I am guessing you really don't need 100 ft, so [here is a good 50ft one for less] (;amp;qid=1404190921&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+cord+50ft)

Also you need ethernet cords to connect to your PC so here is [A 7ft cord, overkill, but just in case] (;amp;qid=1404190985&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=ethernet+cable+5ft)

Cheapest route = $25

Expensive Route= $30

This will provide much faster internet speeds, and after you set it up, much less trouble keeping it running.

Internet speed decreases the further it goes in wireless, and it decreases even more when it goes through objects, like walls and furniture.

Also, if there is a microwave in the way, like there is for me, it decreases much more when the microwave is on, as the microwaves mess with the signal.

Wired, it decreases slightly for longer cords, so get it as short as possible, but it still keeps most of it's strength.

My computer in my gaming room wireless can't connect to the internet most of the time, and when it can, the download speed is in the kilobytes.

When it is 10ft from my modem wireless, it gets 25mbs download.

When it is connected via ethernet, it gets around 55 to 65mbs download, it is much faster...

u/voidsource · 1 pointr/lanparty

ISP Bandwidth does not matter on LAN. Are you playing over wireless? If so you may see some slight intermittentcy depending on what type of access point/router that you have. You may want to look into a small switch. Here is an example of a small switch that you could use for a wired lan.

u/Dstanding · 1 pointr/buildapcsales
u/alliedSpaceSubmarine · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

What would you suggest??

I was looking at these because they seemed good enough and cheap

u/TheFrin · 1 pointr/networking

you seen to know what you're talking about ;p

I hope this will do the job

u/catmandont · 1 pointr/apple

TP-LINK TL-SG1005D 10/100/1000Mbps 5-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Capacity

Plug it into the LAN port to share a connection, only works with router when it comes to internet.

u/14141414141414 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Thanks for reply,

Router is in loft, not going to run another cable.

I could move one PC to another room that has a router - cable run already...but not convenient.

I looked again at that switch - and if my maths is correct, 10/100mbps
would be at max speed only 12.5MB/s
My hard drive speeds internally max at around 125MB/s so it would be very very slow

So I guess if I go switch route, I'd have to get a gigabit switch (all cables are cat6 and both network ports are gigabit)
Again if my maths is working gigabit would give me 125 MB/s which would roughly max out my backing up.

Not sure on cost of gigabit switch? will look.

If a simple physical "splitter" would do the job for less than a pound, that would be preferable.

£13 gigabit switch

Hrm, that's getting close in cost to a PCI 802.11ac adapter, which would be future proof for SSD backups, as it's 850 MB/s in theory.

This is just me spouting stuff so I know where I'm going with this :)

PC1 does have 2 hotswap caddies, but that whole system is 7years old, so not going to be the one in use.
Can't transfer the caddies over to the new system, as its a tiny node304 m-itx build.

Looking for the simplest/cheapest way to achieve backups, without having the platter drives constantly on or connected to main PC.
esata dock is too expensive £35+ ish and when I tried one it was slow and killed one of my old drives.


  • £1 splitter - but will it work?
  • £13 Gigabit switch - works but needs power cable etc and only just reaches 125MB/s
  • £32 - PCI .ac ouch, and not really sure you can connect two wireless ac adapters together adhoc without going through an ac router????

  • £some other option. (switch-able Harddrives so I can keep them in PC2 and only spin them up during a backup - for virus and noise/power limitation) Thinking I could just wire in a switch to the +12 V
u/doghousedean · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

Is the TP link just acting as a Switch?

Disable DHCP and any NAT or firewall functions on the TP link.

Or buy a small switch, TP Link or netgear etc if all it needs to do is connect your desktop to your router

The least complex the better and usually cheaper :)

Edit: first result on google TP-LINK TL-SG1005D 5-Port Gigabit Unmanaged Desktop Switch

u/Randyd718 · 1 pointr/PleX

I have Plex Media Server running on my PC. I can't get 4k HDR mkv files to play on my OLED B6 TV without buffering.

I have an Xbox One X with the Plex app that I have tried. This doesn't appear to support HDR, and repeatedly stops to buffer. I also tried the Xplay app that is native to the LG TV. HDR works (and looks much better than the Xbox app) but still stops to buffer. My TV, Xbox, and PC are all connected via ethernet.

What can I do?

Edit: This is my motherboard, router, and switch so I don't see a network bottleneck, but apparently there is one?

u/CbcITGuy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

What I'm aiming at with this question is, you're looking at 5 of those 10$ switches (Which are actually 4 port switches), so roughly 50$, and they're TP-Link, so they're already cheap, why not spring the extra 30$ or so, go full gig in your network and purchase four of these (you said 15 to 20). And then daisy chain ONE of these together. The more you daisy chain the worse your network will degrade.

u/Shoap13 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

no problem. something like this will do just fine for you

u/itsmeduhdoi · 1 pointr/homelab

well frankly, i need a better switch first than this one;amp;qid=1549650495&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=tp%2Blink%2Blan%2Bhub&amp;amp;th=1

especially since its full anyway,

what i want is a managed switch that i could use to separate out my smart home things and some of the things around the house that don't need more than a connection to a network, but i'm a little wary of dropping a bunch of cash with knowing what i'm doing haha

u/iChopPryde · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

Would this one work?

Edit: that was the wrong link here’s the right one:

u/Christiancicerone · 1 pointr/lanparty

I would send back the switch &amp; get something that is full Gigabit. That switch is only 100Mbps. This is the gigabit version of yours.

1000Mbps = 125MB/s

100Mbps = 12.5MB/s

u/gam3v3t3r3n · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Currently my router is upstairs and I have 1 ethernet cable running through the floor to my desktop. I would rather not use Wi-Fi on my switch. Could I use something like this to split my cable, or would something like this be better?

Secondly for the cable should I purchase the official Nintendo connector or would this cheaper one work?

u/JustCallMeBen · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Under 4 ports you don't need a switch.

2 ports: get an extender. You literally just pass the signal from one cable to the other, you don't need switching logic.

3 ports: a hub will do, performance will not degrade because of it.

But. With the price of 5 port switches though, you might as well get that one: if you later decide you wanna hook up for example a Raspberry pi, you have unused ports on the switch, and it won't degrade performance. I myself have 3 cheap unmanaged 5-port switches from TP-Link. They achieve Gigabit so I'm happy with them.

Edit: oh, looked at your diagram, when you say '2 ports', you mean three :p The 'input' port counts as just another port. So, just get such a 5 port switch: the top switch in your diagram will use 4 out of 5 ports, you're not wasting anything there. You could save a few bucks for the 3 port model by getting a hub, but imo it's not worth the savings if you ask me: just get another 5 port switch (usually 5 ports is the minimum you'll see).

u/Do_You_Feel_That · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Those are great options, thank you. If i keep the injectors and get two non-PoE switches, can I choose any cheapo switch [such as this one by TP-link] (

u/TurbulentFlow · 1 pointr/hometheater

I had this exact same situation! My theater is in the basement, directly below the living room where my cable modem and wireless router sit. I initially ran two ethernet cables down to the basement, one for the PS3 and one for the PC, but when I wanted to add another device I ended up buying a switch, this one on Amazon. Gigabit so I get full speed downstairs, there's enough bandwidth available for several devices to saturate my 150Mb internet. The switch itself is invisible to the devices, they negotiate their IP address with the router as if they were directly connected.

u/CitizenNewell · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Only one Ethernet port?

time to buy a switch and some long cables, my friend!

Here's one for about $17;amp;qid=1417755663&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=gigabit+switch

Long lengths of Ethernet cable are cheap too, these days:

Why, yes...I'm the kind of person who has cables running through my hallway...why do you ask?

u/ftoomch · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking
  • Switch wise, any gigabit port is fine - try this, or this which is what i have. They're unmanaged so no config is needed, just plug and play. Try to ensure your PC is using a gigabit port if possible. a card is only a tenner or so if not, and its worth the upgrade from 100meg.
  • For the storage system, a good bet is a NAS (Network Attached Storage) device. You can make one from a spare PC and using software like FreeNAS (I do), or you can buy a dedicate one (something like this )
  • Does your telly support upnp? if so, that might be all you need. If not you might want to buy a low power tiny PC like this, and install Kodi on it. Its a Linux OS thats based around an old Xbox media player, and its excellent. Failing that, you could buy a chromecast to stream from your PC to your telly.
u/Stompedyourhousewith · 1 pointr/technology
u/Lakerfanalways · 1 pointr/xboxone

Do you recommend this one?;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1481837142&amp;amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;amp;keywords=gigabit%2Bswitch&amp;amp;th=1

Since I already would use one port for the ethernet cable I already have running through my TWC router, I would have 7 ports left..there is also a 5 gigabit switch from the same company
There is also this one;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1481837142&amp;amp;sr=1-6&amp;amp;keywords=gigabit+switch
Now as far as the ethernet cables I will need to get for the TV/ Cat 6 recommended right now I only have super old ones

u/Ardakilic · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I did use a tp-link gbit unmanaged switch ( this one ) from my 100 mbit, ancient modem/router ( zyxel p660 hw t1-v2 ) until last year. After connecting all devices to the switch with cat6 cables, I got local gigabit speed between machines thanks to that switch. So if your question is regarding the local gigabit speed, it may as well be yes.

u/Ace_Entity · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

here i found it on amazon you were right. is it hard for a beginner to use a router as an access point? i don't have much experience at all. are there any advantages or disadvantages to using each?

u/railerswim · 1 pointr/xboxone

&gt; Router is about 25 feet away from the xbox and PC.

You don't even have to crimp a cable for that run, you can buy a 30-35ft cable for that job.

35ft from Cat6 Cable from Cable Matters:

5 port Gigabit Switch from TP Link: Amazon

Then just get a small patch (ethernet) cable (make sure it is cat6) for your pc and set the switch up there and then get another cable to long enough for your xbox to reach the switch. Trust me, this is the best way.

And then buy a shitty mat/rug from walmart or make sure you run the ethernet cable along the wall from the router to the PC. (You might need a longer cable, and even 50ft cables are really cheap now).

Edit: forgot, you already have an ethernet cable between your xbox and pc so that should work for your xbox to the switch.

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc

&gt; I even have the option of choosing the plex server as an input on the TV, but they are all laggy and buffer all the time (guess my internet kind of sucks here in canada).

If I understand correctly, this isn't the internet. Aren't you just streaming locally from your PC to your TV inside the same home?

If your LAN is slow and you can't get a wired ethernet cable, use powerline adapters. And if you need to plug different things and not just your TV, add a switch.

u/willwhitworth · 1 pointr/ATT
u/DurtybOttLe · 1 pointr/techsupport

I actually own a switch, (this one right here) but I wasn't quite sure how it works.

Do I plug the wall connection into the 5th port, and the router and my own pc should be fine connnected into the other ports?

Will it slow anyone else down?

Will plugging it in disrupt any configurations that might have been set up? I don't want to mess up the router downstairs and leave them without wifi while i try to figure this out... Especially if it causes a headache for our IT guy because I know the system we're running is pretty complex.

Sorry if these are dumb questions or something you can't answer.

u/slamthatstembro · 1 pointr/lanparty

What I've been doing is getting to everyone I can before the lan and setting up all the games for them before the lan. Sometimes you can't get to everyone, in that case send them a flash drive with all the files they need and ask that they bring it back to the lan. Setup takes at least 2 hours if not prepared! DON'T use wifi! Run ethernet cables to every station. When purchasing cables, make sure they support gigabit! I really like multiple multiple 5-8 port hubs, one for each table. Take a look at these, it's worth the purchase!;amp;psc=1;amp;psc=1;amp;psc=1

u/tallport2 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking


It is working with the switch. Seems like the 25' cable was just a little finicky.

u/TimmyP7 · 1 pointr/smashbros

Get yourself one of these

u/FawnWig · 1 pointr/VirginMedia

No problem. One last thing, if you need a good gigabit switch, I'd recommend this:

I've had three of these, around my house, for years and they work a treat, and decent speeds (80-90MByte/s).

u/atticus1212 · 1 pointr/techsupport

I had the sort of situation now I use my single long cable into this and shorter cables to my tv and pc.

u/PDXPayback · 1 pointr/lanparty

Here's a half-decent 8 port:
And a better 16 port:

Pretty much anything will work, just remember you'll need one port for each computer, then one to link the switch to the next higher device (another switch or the router).

Just do some searching for extension cables on amazon or someplace similar, or hit your local hardware store. Look for 14AWG or better, at whatever length you need.

u/Lorddark462 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I disagree with WiFi. Always run things wired when you can. You can get switches cheap, This one on amazon for example:

TP-LINK TL-SG1008D 10/100/1000Mbps 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch, 10Gbps Switching Capacity

Yes I know the pis are only 100 and this is gigabit but 100 switches are only a little cheaper or even more expensive. And this way you can always use the switch in the future. I have 3 switches in my little home network.

As for cabling you can get flat cat6 cable very cheap on amazon as well.

SF Cable, 6 ft Premium UltraFlat CAT6 550 MHZ Flat Patch Cable Black

They make various lengths and none are more then about $10, choose the option that has you pay for shipping its a little cheaper. All if my cables with the exception of one is these flat cat 6 cables, by going with cat 6 you once again future proof yourself. (The cable that isn't is a shielded cat 7 cable that goes outside, out one window and down a floor and in another) I love the fact that its flat and can be easily tucked into carpet edges and even go through doors when taped down and still be able to close the door with no issues.

u/ninjamoomoo98 · 1 pointr/lanparty

1.I will do my own research into this!

2.The computer count just dropped to 6 could i use this one that /u/PDXPayback said i could?

3.The router-Ethernet Thing shouldn't be a problem as the router is
on top of one of the pc's (Im^holding^It^Now)

4.My dad is an electrician so ill ask him about where are the breakers so i can not trip the power

and finally THANK YOU!

u/Megamoz · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Or this: TP-Link TL-SG1008D 8-Port Unmanaged Gigabit Network Switch

u/MegaHz · 1 pointr/lanparty

For the extra $6, go with this one. It's the 8 port version of that switch. I've been using one for years with no issues, and that way when you want to add a 5th, 6th or 7th seat, there's no extra headache.

u/mrchaotica · 1 pointr/gaming

&gt; Why metal chassis?

Aside from the fact that you don't have to worry about this yellowing issue, you mean?

Well, there's also the fact that, because it's a pain in the ass to work with, electronic devices with metal chassis tend to be more similar to rectangular prisms, which is better industrial design because then you can stack things on top of them. Compare this metal ethernet switch to the equivalent plastic one, for example. (I would have preferred to use a router as an example instead of a switch because there's even more gratuitous bullshit, including ones you can't even wall-mount or put flat against a surface(!!!), but it's too hard to find a metal-chassis one to compare against.)

Not to mention, it's often the case that I just like the aesthetic of metal better (e.g. in the case of electronics, metal is often more professional/industrial looking). And not just for electronics: I'm also generally a fan of mid-century-modern design, and since most kinds of plastics hadn't been developed commercially yet (except for Bakelite), most products back then were metal. Because design is subject to the limitations (and advantages) of the medium, today's plastic products would have a hard time replicating that look/feel even if they tried.

Consider a Radio Flyer stamped-steel wagon, for instance: the rolled edge of the body was easy to grip tightly for a kid riding in it (or an adult picking it up), the steel made a satisfying clang when you dumped rocks into it, and it had a strongly-horizontal, lithe look. In comparison, a plastic wagon has convex sides that are probably easier to manufacture but harder to grip, surely makes a dull thud when stuff is dumped in it, and just looks thick and bulky compared to the metal version. (Note: I suspect that the difference in noise is not only due to the material properties of steel vs. plastic, but also the geometric fact that stamped steel uses embossing or corrugation to increase the strength of panels, while injection-molded plastic uses ribs instead: the varying thickness of the latter probably deadens the reverb more.) Moreover, the versatility of plastic tempted the designer to add a bunch of extraneous bullshit like a big depression/footwell in the middle, fold-down seat backs, and even fucking cupholders (which you can see in this photo)! The result is that the horizontalness is destroyed and it just looks like a bulbous mess.

Granted, that plastic wagon is probably objectively superior to the classic steel design, in the sense that it won't rust (give or take the axles) when left out in the rain and appears safer and more comfortable for kids to sit in. But even then, the steel design is better because it's worse! The fact that the steel design affords not only the ability to grip the edge, but the need to as well because the sides are low and you're riding more on top of it than in it, creates the opportunity for experiences that the plastic design precludes. If I were a kid planning to ride one down a hill, I know which design I'd pick! In short, if all wagons were plastic, this would not exist.

Finally, I don't know why -- maybe its survivor bias, maybe it's the fact that steel has more heft than plastic, or maybe it's (as you mentioned) simply because it costs more -- but I feel like most products seem more high-quality if they're made out of metal. I guess it's probably mostly the latter reason, because the same phenomenon applies to e.g. hardwood floors in houses: they seem upscale now in comparison to cheap nylon carpet or vinyl laminate, but the reason oak strip flooring is so common in old houses is because it was the cheapest flooring available at the time. Heck, maybe it isn't even the higher-cost itself, but merely the signal that picking a higher-cost material conveys: implying that the designer is optimizing for quality instead of cheapness.

u/UsernamesAreHard26 · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

Yeah. Just make sure it's an unmanaged switch. I use this and I haven't had any issues.

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG1008D)

u/Defiant001 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

At that point just spend a few more dollars and get a different switch if you are worried.

I have 3 of those and two of the 5 port versions in service without any issue. They are cool to the touch even under massive transfers.

u/Sunsparc · 1 pointr/techsupport


My shop sells this one, it works pretty well.

u/hops_on_hops · 1 pointr/DIY

Cat5e should be plenty fast for home use.

Like the other guy said, you really need to get power here and a switch. If you want to do it right, you could terminate all the wiring into a patch panel, then attach those ports to your switch. That gives you a nice setup to centralize network equipment.




Thinking more, if you absolutely can't get power in there you could probably do a PoE (power over ethernet) powered switch here, with a PoE power injector on another line.

Something like this in the closet:

Then the port on there for power would need to lead to something like this in another room:;amp;qid=1572793212&amp;amp;sprefix=poe+i&amp;amp;sr=8-3

u/milan616 · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

I'm using this guy right here, inexpensive and well reviewed with a little room for expansion for you.

u/alex-mayorga · 1 pointr/cordcutters

Thanks! Guess we'll pickup to "future proof" =)

u/gearcontrol · 1 pointr/homelab

I asked because I don't know if this will make much difference:

TP-Link TL-SG1008D

10Gbps Switching Capacity

15K Jumbo Frame

TRENDnet 16-port TEG-S16DG

32Gbps Switching Capacity

10KB Jumbo Frame

u/Space_Cowby · 1 pointr/VirginMedia

You need a small switch to between between the superhub and your router. Something like this should work

u/AaronCompNetSys · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

For reference, I put this switch on the opposite side of my house of my router and all my equipment around my TV is plugged into it. I still get full gigabit speeds even though it was freaking cheap.

Nowadays, you can plug any device into any other device. It's built into the gigabit spec.

u/MrDoh · 1 pointr/eero

Using a more living-area friendly model, that also works flawlessly:;psc=1

u/laird_dave · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you have the opportunity to go wired, use it. WiFi extenders usually decrease performance for everybody because air is a shared medium.

Imagine a guy screaming in your direction. If you shut up and listen, you can repeat what he said in the direction of another guy. The other guy will have to wait for you to stop yelling, then answer, you'll have to wait and yell at the first guy.

Sounds pretty inefficient? That's a WiFi extender for you.

Use MoCa to get signal to your bedroom. Put a switch there if you want to use more than one device. Put an AP there if you want wireless.

MoCa adapter $169.00

Dumb switch $15.99

Access point $75.88

So, you'll have to shell out $260.87 for a setup that'll be orders of magnitude better than your WiFi extender stuff.

u/brianf408 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I've had great luck with TRENDnet switches. Something like this ought to do the job for you.

u/chineseman26 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

This switch is just as good if not better and cheaper.

u/GaryJS3 · 1 pointr/nvidiashieldtv

What do you mean by "splitter". The only way to split ethernet is with a Network switch like this one:

u/1new_username · 1 pointr/techsupport

Sorry this got really long. I thought I would try to be as detailed as possible in case you wanted to go this route. Also, I assumed cost wasn't an issue, so I went with the best (within reason) options. If the cost it too high, you could change the access points, not get the extra HP switch linked at the bottom or do a few other things to save money. If you have more questions, post back and I'll help if I can.

I have done a bunch of wireless networks and I found it to be the easiest setup for getting multiple access points to all work together on one network.

If you have ever configured the wireless settings on a router before, you should be fine. If not, it still won't be too hard.

A few things to know about wireless you might not:

  • A SSID is the same as a wireless network name
  • WPA2 encryption is generally the way to go for most people
  • In the US, although there are 11 wireless channels, only 3 don't overlap/interfere with each other: 1, 6, 11
  • If you setup multiple access points, you want them to have different channels, but the same SSID, password, and encryption type. This should allow most devices to switch automatically to the nearest access point without the user having to do anything.

    Depending on the construction and size of the house, you likely can get away with just 1 AP per floor. If you need to add more later, you always can. Each AP should be able to handle about 30-40 devices well, more if it has too. I would set it up like this:

    Buy 1 of these switches:

    and 3 Ubquiti Pros (there are 3 in this one box, so you would need 1 of the link here):

    On the switch above, there are 8 ports, 4 have a thing called PoE, 4 are "regular" (ports 1-4 are PoE, 5-8 are not). Run 1 network cable from one of the 4 yellow network ports on your N900 router to one of the non-PoE ports on the TRENDNet switch (say port 8). Then using the patch panel and cables already run in the house, run a network cable from ports 1,2, and 3 in the TRENDNet switch, to the ports on the patch panel that go to the wall ports nearest where you want the access points to go (shoot for the middle of each floor for best coverage).

    If the patch panel isn't labeled, or you don't know what goes where, you will have to test them out. You can do this with trial and error, or buy a cable tester like this:

    With that cable tester, you take one side and run a cable from one half f the tester to the wall port you want to use for the access point, then plug the other side in the patch panel, trying different locations until it lights up. When it does, you know you have the right one.

    Ok, so now you have the N900 connected by 1 cable to the TRENDnet switch, then PoE ports 1,2, and 3 hooked to patch panel in the places that go to the wall jacks where you want your access points. Now you will take another network cable and run it from that wall jack into the "main" network port on the access point. That TRENDnet will supply the power, so you don't have to plug it in to a wall outlet for power (that is what PoE is, Power over Ethernet).

    Give the access point a bit (maybe a minute or two at the most) and it should start blinking/glowing blue. The access points are made to be mounted to a wall or ceiling, which will get you the best coverage, but if you can't put holes in the wall or don't feel comfortable doing it, you could even just set them on a tall book case or something (that will reduce your range though).

    Now, go here: and download the UniFi Controller software for PC or Mac (whichever you have). Run it and install it.

    Here is a guide that likely explains better than I could (with pictures) the next steps from there (start at page 3):

    Honestly, the initial setup should be enough, more likely than not. If you or someone has an android phone, install Wifi Analyzer:

    and walk around the house looking at signal strength after the install is done. If you have I'd say -75dbi or lower (lower numbers mean stronger signal) everywhere you go, then you are done. If somewhere the signal is a lot weaker than that (or doesn't show up), you can just buy another access point, use port 4 on your TRENDNet, hook it up in the weak spot, go into the UniFi software and add it into your network.

    That should pretty much be it. There are a lot of really advanced settings you can mess with in the UniFi software, but for a home-type setting, you probably won't need it.

    As one other suggestion, consider replacing your current switch with something like this (this is a 24 port, don't know how many ports you need):

    You would then run 1 cable from your N900 to that switch, and then plug the rest of your non-access point ports in your patch panel into it. Encourage anyone that has a wired connection in their room/desk and that has a desktop or even a laptop to plug into the wired when at all possible. If needs be, even split out 1 cable run to their rooms using a switch like this:

    to get as many people off of wireless as possible. The reason being, think of it like this:

    Each access point has 1 Gigabit connection (1000 Mpbs speed for simplicity). That 1000 speed connection is being shared by as many as 30-40 devices (maybe more), so each device gets at best 1000/40 = 25 Mbps.

    When someone uses their own cable run and doesn't use the wireless, they get their own 1000 Mbps connection, instead of having to share one with a bunch of other people.

u/ArthropodOfDoom · 1 pointr/udub

/u/SoonAfterThen's recommendation is good, but I've started using TRENDnet stuff (see this one) and I've had zero problems. Not that Netgear's bad, necessarily, but it is cheaper and just as good. They'reTRENDnet is a more enterprise-focused company, so their small cheap stuff is a little more no-frills.

u/birdmanbs · 1 pointr/wireless

Perfect. Many variables that I didn't know of!

By the way, I was checking NETGEAR GS105 reviews on Amazon. It seems that some people have issues with them:

&gt; Netgear is supposed to have a 5 year warranty (2 on the power supply). I had one of these for about 18 months. Over the last months it's been increasingly flaky, every week or two it just hangs and needs to be unplugged and started again. It doesn't matter how much it's in use (it's done it when we've been on vacation with minimal network traffic).

&gt;I called Netgear to get it replaced, but they told me that it's not meant to be plugged in all day, so they won't fix it. Unless you actually unplug all your network equipement when you are not actively using it (I didn't think so), then I highly recommend avoiding Netgear products.

I looked up for replacements: this TRENDnet TEG-S50g - although cheaper - has a better review history. Any thoughts about it?

I was wondering if a WiFi router working as an AP for AP 2 wouldn't be a better option. It would work as a switch (giving me ability to plug 2 computers), and provide WiFi. Do you know any 10/100/1000 router to suits my needs?

If not, I'll try switch + UniFi AP. :)

u/tehFeetus · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yeah, I've had a number of routers that have bad or failing ports and eventually die. It's just one of those things with cheap, consumer grade routers.

What I'm doing at the moment with my computers and stuff is just using a switch between them and the router. This little TRENDnet switch was $20US on Amazon and allows me to hook up several devices to the router that came with my ISP. You might be able to do the same thing if you're needing more connections but don't really need the router's capabilities (most people don't need additional routers beyond what they get from their ISP).

There aren't any ports to be opened because nothing is connecting in to you. You're connecting out to the Twitch ingest servers.

Just make sure that in OBS you're not putting your "Max bitrate" too high. Most people will recommend 2000kbps (2mbps) or lower for unpartnered streamers so that more people are able to view your stream (you won't have transcoding to give them high/medium/low/mobile options). You can do up to 4mbps per twitch's rules, but there is that trade off in accessibility to your stream as you push that bitrate higher.

u/Uf-Dah · 1 pointr/wireless

Personally, I prefer using a purpose built device for my needs. When I want Wifi, I prefer to use a Ubiquiti Unifi AP. It's built for wireless and that's it's primary (and almost) exclusive use.

Short(er) range
Long(ish) range

The Verizon router will handle your wired devices and routing/firewall just fine. I might suggest a Gigabit switch to expand your available wired ports as-needed.

So far you've listed Wii U, Playstation, Xbox and Computer... there's 4 ports, but you'd need another port for the wifi ap if you go with my preferred solution.

I'd probably go with a green dlink 8 port gigabit switch to give you enough room for all of your listed devices and still have 2-3 left over ports for what ever you decide to expand to down the road.

Hope this helps!

u/noc007 · 1 pointr/homelab

I have used a couple of these unmanaged TP-Link at home with great success:

Though mine have given me no issues for several years, I'll probably replace them with 8-16 port L2 switches.

u/BearOfTheMonth · 1 pointr/networking

You might consider going with 3 8 port switches, as it might be a little cheaper, but you will be giving up 3 ports to connect them to the router. Here's a link to one that costs $30. Most 24 gigabit switches are over $100. And when you buy a gigabit switch, remember that some of them will say they are gigabit simply because they have a couple of gigabit ports.

u/flint246 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Its going to be around $10 from my ZIP to NYC. I screwed up, sorry. Apparently USPS First Class has a 13 oz weight limit and this dosen't pass that requirement. So I would say for you its going to be $20 shipped. These go on Amazon for around $30 plus shipping and taxes. I would say that this is a worst case scenario since I'm shipping clear across the country, so hopefully rates will be less if anybody else is interested.

u/9sW9SZ189uXySHfzFVFt · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

As you said in another comment, your Hills Home Hub is a patch panel. There should be five ethernet wires connected from it to the 8 port Dlink switch (one for each of the Home Office PC, Lounge 8 port Dlink switch, Theatre Room 16 port Dlink switch, Nighthawk WIFI repeater, and TV).

Your setup is similar to mine so it should work okay. Make sure all of your switches are Gigabit switches. If they're not then replace them with Gigabit switches (put cheap unmanaged Gigabit switches like this in the Lounge and Theater room and consider using a managed switch for the 8 port Dlink switch). I use all Unifi equipment (router, access points, managed switches; I have some non-Unifi dumb switches) so I'm not sure about your router/repeater.

u/hak8or · 1 pointr/nyc

Going even deeper, almost all consumer routers these days are not actually just routers, they are a switch and router and WAP (wireless access point) in one. Heck, your modem is actually a modem and router under the hood too. So you can actually just have a modem and WAP (which is all most people need anyways).

Most routers come with 1 WAN port and 4 LAN ports and one or more antennas. But what if you have more than 4 wired devices? Well, you can just buy a switch instead of an expensive 6 or 8 port router! Like this guy has 8 ports, so you just plug one Ethernet cable from your router to the switch, and then you get 3 + 8 total wired ports to use!

What I did is returned the modem (because it was an old as shit model that for some reason they didn't want to upgrade, and at the time it was a $5 fee) and got this modem instead. Then for a router I got got some Linksys thing and called it a day.

If I were you, and if you want to go fancy (not /r/homelab levels), then go for a WAP like this and call it a day. If TWC don't want to give you a modem for free, check if it will make fiscal sense for you to just buy a modem instead of dealing with the fee.

u/RmJack · 1 pointr/lanparty

Do you have a router? If so, you can use the remaining ports on that router and maybe one of these;amp;qid=1377833383&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=gigabit+switch, most devices ISP's rent these days, are modem/router combos. Also ask your friends, maybe they have spare switches and what not, my friends always did, as well as I.

u/synthetase · 1 pointr/applehelp

Yeah. They don't have Gigabit ports. Inexpensive gigabit switches are harder to find. I paid $20 for the one I have. I bought it on Amazon (US).

Their price has gone up since then.;amp;qid=1369506079&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;keywords=gigabit+switch

u/codylc · 1 pointr/lanparty

I'm pretty much going to echo /u/ilumos, but you have too many chiefs and not enough indians.

Your router is the boss of the network. What makes a router different from your switch is that it builds the network. Using DHCP, it hands out IP addresses to all of your connected devices and defines what belongs in the local network.

A switch is like a power strip for a network. You can take one port on your router and make it 8 (or 16, or 32, etc). It doesn't really perform any tasks other than extend the size of your network.

When you throw more than one router into same network, you start creating DHCP server conflicts. Essentially, you've created two networks on the same wires and the computers have a 50/50 chance of joining one over the other. In your case, some PCs were joining the router with an internet connection and others were getting stuck with the router that didn't have an internet connection.

The internet drops your one friend experienced were likely caused by IP Address conflicts, which were probably happening all over your network.

This is all really, really bad...but it's really easy to fix. Pick one router and set aside the other. If you need to connect more devices to the network, be sure to take up all 4 ports on the back of your router/modem and then all the ports on your switch. Need more? Invest in another switch. I highly recommend looking into getting a few of these TrendNet switches. They go on sale ALL THE TIME! Watch SlickDeals and you should be able to grab one for around $20.

Right now there's a great 8 port Netgear gigabit switch on sale for $20 [Edit: And this ZyXEL switch just went on sale for $15!]. Grab a couple of those, plug them into your router and all your problems will go away. Hopefully. =D

u/_Iridium · 1 pointr/techsupport

Even beyond the CAT6s ability to physically handle the load, are smaller switches more "efficient" as far as managing all that traffic compared to larger switches? I curently have a TRENDnet 8-port GREENnet switch and am pretty happy with it. Especially the unmanaged part, total plug and play which is awesome!

u/kwiltse123 · 1 pointr/networking

I feel it would be acceptable to use the switch you specified and the AP I mentioned, assuming this is just for casual use. What I mean by that is, I assume the PC and the wireless users are just browsing the web randomly, sending a few emails, doing tweets, browsing Facebook, watching occasional YouTube, etc. If that's the expected usage, it should be fine. If this is an important business operation point (bulk email distribution, hosting of a church web site, live streaming of weekly services, etc.) then you may want to consider a better switch to ensure that it will provide rock solid reliability.

Note that the switch is only 5 ports, and right away you'll be using 3 ports (PC, WAP, connection to main router). For roughly the same price, I have used this model in the past (;amp;psc=1), and it has 8 ports, so if you ever add another PC or network-enabled-TV in the future, you'll have a few spare ports.

For SSID, yes you want to make it the same properties as what already exists (name, password, authentication type, etc.). The idea would be that people who are connected would automatically connect to the stronger AP when they move around. Understand that the topic of AP selection by the device is a complex topic. Generally speaking it works, but there are subtleties that make it a little finicky. The only thing that should be different on the APs is the channel (the frequency of the wireless transmitter). They want to be different channels, and they each want to be a channel that is not used by a neighbor. See the comments by /u/OfensiveBias.

For IP addresses, this can get deep but I'll keep it brief. There is a public IP address that your router uses to communicate with your internet provider (Cablevision, TimeWarner, Verizon, AT&amp;T, etc.). That address is assigned by the provider, and it will remain as it is. But the network inside the building, like the PC and the WAP, has an IP address in a different range called "private". It will be something like 192.168.x.x or 10.x.x.x. These addresses are assigned by you (or managed by the router). So the idea is, let's say your router is currently, and your PC is, and any wireless users are assigned in the range - You could configure the AP as for example. It will come with a default address, and you need to configure your PC to something in the same range in order to initially connect to it, but then you can change it to match what your church inside network is already using. Once that's done, any wireless devices will simply pass through the access point on their way to the router to the internet.

I didn't intend to provide this much detail, so hope this helps rather than confuses.

u/PM_ME_DARK_MATTER · 1 pointr/homelab

To piggyback on to this comment, you could also use something like DD-WRT on your Wifi router to create different virtual subnets/VLANS for you wireless clients as well.

Your next project should be disabling all routing functions in your Wifi router, turning it into a simple AP, and getting a proper firewall/router at your edge. OP, I highly recommend a pfSense firewall. To get you started, you c just simply take and old computer, slide a dual NIC card and get going with that. If you decided you like it, you can then invest in proper firewall hardware.

As for a managed switch, this is a good cheap starting point. I have several more proper HP/Cisco managed switches now, but I still use my lil Netgear, cuz its so simple to use.

u/Warm_Soup · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have and use a NetGear ProSafe GS108T

Power it from my Cisco 3750X, works great!

u/LivingBillNye · 1 pointr/cybersecurity

What do you think of this.;amp;psc=1

It seems to have all the functions i would need, although in the diagram they mention it should be connected to a vpn firewall, so im guessing it doesnt have a configurable firewall?
Thats something I was hoping would be included in the switch.

u/eldorel · 1 pointr/Artemis

To setup vlans, you would need a managed or at least a "smart" switch that supports port based vlan. (otherwise your AP needs to support the VLAN, or you need to configure the clients with vlan settings, which you do NOT want to deal with...)

That GS105 5pt is OK, but the 8pt version (GS108) is more reliable and has less issues with heat. (and will last longer).

We use GS108T smart switches for a few small areas at work.
They're pretty reliable and they also support LAG/LACP port bonding. (so multiple gigabit ports going to the server or between switches, that act as a single cable with more available bandwidth. )

That's getting to be overkill for what you're doing, but they're only $50. The extra $20 might be worth the flexibility.

u/Tomfoolery23 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I guess. For cheap I bought a Netgear switch (GS108T, like this one and placed it between the ONT and a ERL3.

No configuration to do apart of setting up DiffServ and VLANS.

u/303onrepeat · 1 pointr/homelab
u/Inhumanskills · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Sorry one last dumb question. I know you said any unmanaged switch should be fine. Do you know if the Netgear 108tv2 (Managed Switch) will be any good for this? Thanks!

u/marklyon · 1 pointr/CommercialAV

It doesn't do passthrough, but has a few more ports if you need it. Some clown decided my conference room tables only needed one drop, so I've used some of these to add ports so that people can connect.

u/IamNotWrong- · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Don't get TP-Link. I have 3 of them and had to replace it with a netgear because I was having issues. Even Amazon reviews state that after they replaced it with something else, many issues went away.

This is the one I have:;amp;redirect=true&amp;amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

u/37tr3n5k · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

hoe-lee shit I wish I would have known that. Thanks alot for clarifying that.

So, question then-- this the router I was using. Everything seems to be working fine as of now, however I am only using (2) 4mp 1080p cameras due to my processor only being an i3. I am building a new computer with an i5 processor with 32GB of ram. However, I would sure as hell like to head off another bottleneck issue before it happens. I am using this passive switch and this POE switch. Would you expect problems with the POE switch and just change to a multiport passive POE injector like this one. If you could share your opinion, I would sure be thankful.

u/dc_gov_monkey · 1 pointr/homedefense

The HikVision 3MP cameras are great and have wonderful reviews.

Yes, you will also want to get a PoE switch (or a power injector like this: This allows the camera to just use a single ethernet cable to provide power and data.

I'm not 100% sure if the Hikvision cameras come with a free DVR software, but a lot of people including myself run BlueIris as their Server. This allows you to use a PC as your DVR. I know there is a bunch of info on their website and it only costs $49.99 for a full version. has a lot of discussion on how to use / configure it.

u/apexian · 1 pointr/homedefense

You probably need to take a step back and reconsider what you are hoping to accomplish, and re-calibrate your expectations.

If you simply want to see what kind of wildlife is tipping over your garbage bins, something like a game camera might do the job:

With that said, if you really want a video surveillance system, the first step is determining the bare minimum number of cameras you need. You can always start out with a couple of cameras, and expand your system later.

A $200 budget can probably get you into a one or maybe a two-camera system, if you are resourceful and computer-savvy.

For example:

Camera ($90):

PoE injector ($40):

Blue Iris software ($59) or iSpy ($0)

In addition to the above, you'll need an Ethernet switch, Ethernet cables, and a PC to run Blue Iris or iSpy.

There are other camera options out there - this is just one that I have some personal experience with and can recommend. But $70 - $90 is pretty much the low-end when it comes to decent outdoor IP security cameras with low-light capabilities.

u/tashedmesticles · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

How many POE ports do you need? The Linksys product you linked above has 12. If you are using IP cameras and need a limited number of ports currently, you could save a lot of money by going with a 24-port un/managed switch without POE, and then buying a separate POE injector. One switch I have that I recommend is this one: Then you could buy a separate 8-port POE injector for approx. $40:

u/djdementia · 1 pointr/networking

If you need ~20 PoE devices (or to plan for it in the future) you might be better off buying a PoE injector hub. This will inject just the power into the cable so you still need a switch.

Most 24 port PoE switches just FYI can't handle 24 ports of PoE in use. Most are designed for maybe 12 ports of PoE in use while the other 12 ports in use but non powered.;amp;qid=1410988584&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;keywords=poe+injectors

u/sir-draknor · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Make sure you know what type of POE you need. Some devices (usually wifi APs) want 24V POE, and others need 802.3af/at (which is 48v). Since you already have a POE switch that is 802.3af/at compliant, I assume your IP cameras are also 802.3af/at compliant, so you should be good.

It's preferably to have one switch rather than two (better performance, less devices / points-of-failure), but it also comes down to preferences &amp; budget. I recently picked up a used Nortel Baystack 5520 for dirt cheap (&lt;$50), which is a datacenter-class 48 port gigabit ethernet switch. But it's also super loud (compared to consumer gear), and pretty power hungry. So - depends on your priorities!

(I'm not using the Nortel as my main networking switch - it's just something I'm using to learn layer 3 networking).

Another option would be a non-POE switch, but then pick up a POE midspan. We used these at work for our POE phones before we switched providers (the new provider leases us Cisco SG200 POE switches instead).

u/ineedascreenname · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use this for poe.

WS-POE-8-48v60w Passive 10/100 Power over Ethernet PoE Injector for 8 IP Cameras, VOIP Phones or Access Points, 48 volts, 60 Watts Total Power

u/xedeon · 1 pointr/centurylink

The two ports on the CALIX ONTs serve different purposes. Only one is for data/internet (ETH 1) the other is for TV service (ETH 2).

Since you're just powering WiFi webcams via micro USB. Just buy a PoE injector like this one and save some $$$. PoE switches are expensive.

POE-8-48v60w | 8 Port Passive 10/100 Power Over Ethernet Midspan Injector for IP Cameras

u/Tensoneu · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

This is one of the setups I have configured with BlueIris Software:

7x 4MP POE Outdoor Cameras | 15fps (Around $80-$100/ea. on ebay)

4x 1MP Wireless Foscam IP Cameras (Indoor)| 15fps

1x POE passive Injector [WS-POE-8-48v60w Link

1x 16 port gigabit unmanaged D-Link Switch

1x Alienware Alpa (with an i7-4790T's actually overkill). According to Blue Iris it's using around 25% CPU. For your setup you can actually use an i5 or even an i3 1st generation without issues.

1x 6TB WD Purple External Drive via USB3.0

I don't have 24/7 recording, but motion sensing recording. 6 Months of motion sensing recording used up around 1.5TB of storage.

  • I have the recordings save onto the internal SSD (Samsung Pro 850 256GB) of the PC and have BlueIris move the files to the external drive.

  • Indoor cameras gets plugged in when leaving the house for an extended period of time. Because if someone manages to break into the house you'd want a clear shot of the person.

    If space is an issue I recommend splitting up which cameras must have 24/7 recording and the others just motion sensing.

u/mflagler · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have three of the DS-2CD2032 bullet cams on my house. They're running 30fps to my Milestone XProtect Go server running on a desktop in my house for recording. Nelly's Security has them, and you can get them on Amazon, but be sure to get the USA models (make sure they say that and not multi-language or Chinese model, as the USA models are hard to find and some sellers say they are USA, but they're really not).

Nelly's Security has the newer model with SD slot (mine are older without it) here:

They have a 2MP model without SD card that still does full 1080p that's cheaper too:

Just look for the 2CD2xxx models as they are all Hikvision. They have WiFi models as well, but you still need power. The domes aren't as adjustable as the bullet cameras are either (you're restricted on tilting up/down to a certain range, plus they take up more room) The bullet cameras are fully adjustable, and are still outdoor rated IP66.

Nelly's Security is great too. I bought 2 of my cameras through them and when I bricked one doing a firmware downgrade (I don't recommend trying this), I sent it to them, they tried reviving it, and when they couldn't, they just sent me a new camera. Their online chat is very helpful as well.

Edit: If you need a PoE injector, I bought one of these and it's worked perfectly:

u/killborn475 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace;amp;cm_re=switches-_-12K-008X-00026-_-Product

Should do fine, and comes with lifetime warranty.;amp;qid=1485343901&amp;amp;sr=8-4&amp;amp;keywords=switches

For a more economical route.

Switches are pretty simple devices that you can pick up for a decent price. I wouldn't really say their are any bad switches.

u/nobearclaw · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Ah gotcha...So you can get 200ft Ethernet on Amazon for $15, and any switch like this TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Desktop Switch (TL-SG108) if you don't need vlans

u/SupermanKal718 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I had 4 Xbox ones(day 1 Xbox, Halo 5 Xbox, and Xbox Scorpio edition, and my fathers old Xbox one) my brother brought his Xbox one and so did my father.

So 6 xbox, 6 tv, 6 eithernet cords and [a network switch]( 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG108) you can buy one with less ports or more depending on how many systems you hooking up.

Connect Ethernet cables from each system to that switch and that's it.

u/crazyk4952 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Switches have more than one port. I would still recommend a switch even if most of your devices are wireless.

This is the one that I have. It's $19.99 from amazon.;amp;keywords=switch&amp;amp;qid=1465416816&amp;amp;ref_=sr_1_4&amp;amp;sr=8-4

u/AceBlade258 · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm a fan of the GS108E of the TP-LINK of the same never had problems with either.

TP-LINK of the 308

u/Sneeko · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You can get an TP-Link 8 port unmanaged gigabit switch for all of $20 on Amazon right now. And if you want a dedicated wifi AP to go with it, here's a TP-Link Access Point for all of $30.

This will give you your own wifi and 6 usable ethernet ports after 1 is used for uplink to router, and 1 used for AP for all of $50+tax out the door, solving any and all router issues at the same time.

u/K1TSUNE9 · 1 pointr/Twitch

I see. You could always buy a mini switch to carry of the connection. This way you won't lose the signal and be able to plug in more devices. Also if you're a 100ft from the modem/router you will definitely have a weak signal and frame drops.

This one would do:

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG108)

u/TIFUbyResponding · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Can't go wrong for $18. I have one of these downstairs, and one of the Netgear Prosafe GS108 upstairs. Both work great.

u/ma47152 · 1 pointr/timesplitters

Also get 6 copies of ts2

You need 6 ps2's just make sure theres a ethernet port in the back of them heres a picture example:

You also need 6 long ethernet cords:

You need to use a ethernet splitter so you can connect all the consoles together to play with one or another:;tag=blazlist-20&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;camp=2025&amp;creative=165953&amp;creativeASIN=B00A121WN6&amp;th=1

u/macphone411 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Get a cable tester first! Verify which cable goes to reach room and then verify the integrity of the cable/connection.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1511375085&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=cat+cable+tester

Then get a gigabit switch to plug all of those Ethernet cables into.;amp;ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1511375121&amp;amp;sr=1-3&amp;amp;keywords=gigabit+switch (Unless you want to use VLANs you dont need a managed switch. Check how many ports you need too.)

From there plug one of the ports from the switch into your ISP router and voila!

u/YosarianiLives · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I kinda do have a switch on both ends... The modem/router has a built in 5 port switch. Then I have this switch upstairs. My file server/general purpose server is upstairs, but I'd like if there was a 2 Gb connection to it downstairs when I have lans at my house. The problem I'm running in to is that if I connect both ports to my router downstairs and my switch upstairs my computer, which is only using 1 port on the switch upstairs can't access the network at all. I can't access the internet and I can't see any of the other pcs on my network. Is this a problem with my router or switch? Is it something I can fix without spending much money?

u/Duke_of_Pillows · 1 pointr/kodi

I have no idea if it will fix the problem, but you should definitely upgrade your switch to something like a TL-SG108 considering how cheap it is, and if you have a SHIELD you can definitely afford it.

Beyond this, I would check your windows machine and see if it there is some kind of firewall or networking issue on that machine causing this.

u/STLgeek · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

These are cheap and decent. Or for $16 more get a 48 port switch.

Regarding your hub, it sounds broken. But, as stated, you should not have a hub on your network in 2018. They essentially have a "fabric" of 100Mbps, and good lord the collisions...

The only somewhat reasonable use for a hub at this point is for poor man's port mirroring or maybe a very expensive ethernet coupler.

u/tsmartin123 · 1 pointr/eero

I use this $20 8 port switch with my Eero and have 0 issues:

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG108)

u/NotBillNyeScienceGuy · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Something like this:

TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Steel Desktop Switch (TL-SG108)

u/nubgrub · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So as others have said, 1000 Mbps is 125 MBps (realistically less, around 105 MBps). 100Mbps switches can only transfer a little over 10MBps which isn't much and can be exceeded by large 1080p files (not evening mentioning large 4K). If you are streaming files and plex files I would recommend 1000 Mbps. Even if a single item isn't saturating it, if you have more than one device or are streaming a 1080p while gaming or moving a file, downloading from the web, etc, you are screwed. Also your internet might be faster than 100 Mbps. Another reality check: a 10GB file (lets say a medium grade 1080p movie rip) would take over 16 minutes with 100 Mbps while it would take 1000 Mbps less than 2 minutes.


I see a lot of recommendations here for good grade, managed switches but unless you are needing a managed switch, you can get small, cheap gigabit switches for $15-40 for 5-8 port. Here's a well rated TP Link for $16. TP Link and other brands also has a soft managed switches for cheap if you need a couple of managed features (not sure of the specifics but a few features like VLAN).

u/RedToby · 1 pointr/techsupport

One switch, three Ethernet cables. One from wall to switch (sometimes there is a dedicated and labeled “uplink” port, usually any port will do.), and one each from the switch to the tv and the computer.

This one is decent and is overkill with 8 ports, but is cheaper than the 5 port version right now.

u/nps-ca · 1 pointr/eero

Trendnet one /u/wiburgess suggested is good; I'm using these as I have two locations that have my house wiring

u/CircleFissure · 1 pointr/hometheater

The HDMI extender will likely use one of the cat6 cables. It may have terminals for 1 cat6 (8 conductors) cable on a terminal strip, or it may have an 8p8c socket to receive an RJ-45 connector.

If it has an RJ-45 socket, terminate one of the cat6 cables using an RJ-45 connector on each end appropriate to the conductor type (stranded like speaker wire vs. solid like Romex). The conductor type will be written on the cable jacket, or will be visible if you strip a bit of insulator from one of the eight conductors inside. You'll need a crimping tool. Using the wrong type of RJ-45 connector (solid vs stranded) may lead to reliability issues.

The order of the solid/striped coloured conductors matters. You'll probably want to terminate the cable as a straight through ethernet cable (pick one of the two standards, T-568A or T-568B and stick with it), but check the extender's manual to see if it expects something odd, like a cross-over cable. If the extender did not come with a printed manual, Google the model number for a manual for configuration and other details.

One of the two parts of the extender might be labelled as needing to be connected to the HDMI source (your receiver in the closet), even though HDMI is supposed to be bi-directional. The extender ends will likely also need power.

In your closet, connect the receiver to the transmitting end of the extender using an HDMI cable of the required specifications. Behind your TV, connect the TV to the receiving end of the extender using another HDMI cable.

The other cat6 cable will be to deliver Internet access to your TV via ethernet to your wired home network. Terminate each end using an RJ-45 connector as above, as a straight through ethernet cable. Connect the TV end to the TV, and the other end to your broadband router, DSL/cable modem, or network switch. The broadband router might be located in a different area of your home (through some in-wall cat6). There may be a network switch in your closet which also distributes Internet access to your receiver, Xbox, etc. If your TV has Wi-Fi and your signal is strong, you may not need to use this second ethernet cable for smart TV functions, but a wired connection tends to be more reliable than a wireless connection.

u/bsddork · 1 pointr/Network

The post from /u/dcwrite has a link to BestBuy for a switch.

When buying a switch, get anything, just look for something that says "gigabit" or "10/100/1000". Count the number of connections you have in the closet and get a switch that has the same number or greater ports.

Here is one on amazon for a nice price -&gt;

&gt; an ethernet cable running from the router to the wall

Is that the only cable connected to your router? What make/model is your router?

u/swagbitcoinmoney · 1 pointr/homelab

Get an HP NC364T and install it in the server for more ports, and/or get a switch like this one and connect it to your server to convert one LAN port into 7 (you can get a used larger/rackmount switch from eBay for cheap if you need even more ports)

u/EntropyVoid · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

About the switch, it does seem to not be supposed to last long. I found this comparison but I'm not sure how trustworthy it is, the guy seems to know what he's talking about he recommends the TP-Link SG108 over the GS108 for home use, and says the design of the GS308 will probably make the capacitors break pretty fast. This is the one he recommends [] and it's well reviewed and cheaper than the 308. What do you think? The AP was plugged into the edgerouter because I wanted to set up a guest wifi (still password protected of course) on a vlan, but i'm not going to get a managed switch with vlans. How much impact do you think it could have? I read somewhere, and it may be completely wrong, that the ER-X is a switch with routing added rather than a router with a switch added, which is why it's so cheap for its performance.

u/Qui_Gon_Gin · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

modem, router, both which I have purchased. Switch I have not purchased yet. I am not 100% sure on the capabilities of them all.

u/nomofica · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You don't need another router, what you need is a switch. Get an 8-port unmanaged switch, they go for less than half of that router..

u/skookum_qq · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm using this as a switch and this as an AP. Yeah the modem is connected to the WAN/Internet port of the router. And for Twitch streaming, I use an application called OBS Studio that lets me see frames lost during a stream. Sometimes it will be 5-10% frames dropped, sometimes more. It also shows me the bitrate during the stream and I have it set to 3500 bitrate right now, but sometimes it drops to 1000-2000 and has either really bad quality or drops frames.

u/zcr9999 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

u/grrcracker · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Good find. They also have a 8 port gigabit switch for $20. Had to pick one up at that price.

u/sh_ip_int_breif · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

As the others are saying, get a pic of the terminations and ensure that they are all RJ45 if they are smaller, they are RJ11 (phone).

Once that is validated, you can get something like this;amp;psc=1 to connect all your cables and 1 port remaining for you to use as "uplink " to your ISP.

u/mcb2890 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | Ethernet Splitter | Sturdy Metal w/ Shielded Ports | Plug-and-Play | Traffic Optimization | Unmanaged (TL-SG108)

u/cam51037 · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Fair enough. If you can't wait until then you should be able to find a good Gigabit switch for around $20. Here's a switch similar to the one I'm using.

u/phillip_u · 1 pointr/sonos

You mention occasionally losing zones. I have over a dozen speakers and I almost never lose a speaker. Like maybe once a year, one speaker will stop responding and drop off of the network necessitating a power cycle. Like you, I have a single Playbar hard wired with the rest all running in SonosNet/Boost mode (I don't actually have a Boost, it's just what they call it now.) Because of the number of speakers I've got, I think I've got a pretty good mesh going on which might explain the relative stability I experience.

I'm thinking you may want to consider using the Boost but placing it somewhere central to the device(s) that drop and the Playbar, if possible.

Also, if your router is out of ports, you can just add an unmanaged switch to add more. They're fairly inexpensive.

u/dmercer · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Why is that switch so expensive compared to, say, ?

u/jacle2210 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

well that is another problem you probably don't want to get into either (re: double natting).

A simple Ethernet Switch is what you want, but somehow you managed to get a "pro" unmanaged/managed switch.

This other model from TP-Link would be just fine:

and it's only $20 on Amazon;keywords=8+port+gigabit+switch&amp;qid=1555474439&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=8+port%2Caps%2C322&amp;sr=8-3

u/Amphor · 1 pointr/DIY

Nope, the other orientation is just too short.
It's sounds stupid but I think that needs to be the course of action. I'm just worried about the overheating when I stack them on top
Also, I wouldn't worry about tv cables, come to think of it, as tv comes over the network anyway for me.

So my shopping list is something like that:;qid=1556370092&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

2 x;qid=1556370937&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3

plus some mounting equipment. I would assume something U-shape like this |____| where two switches fit inside of the sides and on top of eachother sideways

u/siamonsez · 1 pointr/buildapc

I don't know if you got the response I made because it was filtered because I used short URLs:

&gt; I have a XB6 modem from Comcast. I haven't been able to find specs on it, but there's no external power brick and it says on the bottom 115v ~ 1.1A

&gt;TP Link Archer C9 and 8 Port Switch

&gt;It'd be nice to be able to get at least 2-3 hours with wifi on just so it would work without having to go and turn off the wifi, but the main thing is keeping the modem up so the phone works, so it depends how much battery time the wifi uses. If it's unrealistic to get that kind of run time with wifi on then I'd only use it to back-up the modem.

I was just looking for a ballpark, like 600VA, 900, 1500, more?

u/vinceskahan · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I used this one - same thing, similar vendor, more ports. You always need one more port than you have.;amp;psc=1

u/PhoenixReborn · 1 pointr/techsupport

OP needs one that passes ethernet as well for his desktop. Alternatively you could connect a switch to the wall and then both the desktop and wireless AP to the switch.

EDIT: His first link doubles as a wired AP so that's also a solution. Tagging /u/theyra54 so you see

u/nrprad · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I think we will try doing a setup similar to this one. Our house is a way more spread out single floor house, with a room above the garage. As much as I want to do a plug and play consumer "router", I think this will honestly work out better for us in the long run as far as coverage goes. I thought the AP AC Pro would be better though for throughput on the AC band, according to their site.
What are your thoughts on that?

Also, this is the switch I was looking at: [Switch] (;amp;psc=1&amp;amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

Edit: We have gotten as far as running Cat6 to all the walls that will have need for Ethernet. It is [pure copper cable] (;amp;psc=1).
Also, when you said not to put RJ45 plugs in them, you were talking about going into a coupler in the wall? We were planning on keystone jacks already, just didn't know what you meant by that part. :D

u/Volagime · 1 pointr/techsupport

This one:

This doesn't have an upload, so any 1-8 is fine I'm guessing.

u/bcantana · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

In my case, I have the main AT&amp;T Modem plugged into my OnHub (or GWifi puck in your case) to one of these:;amp;psc=1

This switch feeds all the machines in my office.

I also have another one connected to the farthest OnHub (in your case GWifi puck) in my bonus room to connect my Smart 4K TV, my XBox 360 S, PS3, etc.

Unfortunately I don't have the pre-wired "hardware points" to leverage the ethernet backhaul, but it still will let me get 250/300mbps speeds just via the mesh network to anything connected to the switch in the bonus room.

u/poc9k · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

The 8 port is on sale for $16 when you click the little coupon thing. Might just grab one for the heck of it.;amp;psc=1

u/jarusnajar · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Great, thanks!

What is the point of the 5 dangling coax cables in the panel?


So, I'm thinking of.. having one of the coax cables run into a modem.

And the ethernet from the modem goes to this router:

And from that router, I have wires that connect to each of those black ethernet plugs (refer to panel in original post) corresponding to the outlets in each of the different rooms I have.

Then, from the living room media center room, I can have a switch from that port:

Which will then connect to all my devices and a wireless access point.


Would that work? The router and switch part is a bit confusing to me, so I might be thinking of this totally wrong.

u/tekson_ · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So as an update, my USG came in, and I ran to the local store and bought the following 8 port gigabit switch:;amp;qid=1493831549&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=tp+link+8+port+gigabit+switch&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=41bzptIAXoL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch

At this point over Ethernet I'm getting ~650mbps down and ~900mbps up.

~250 down / ~300 up over wifi in close proximity

The up seems fine over Ethernet but the down seems low. Assuming it's probably configuration somewhere, any suggestions on steps to troubleshoot ?

u/Marty_Mac_Fly · 1 pointr/eero

I am using this switch as a central point in my smart box for all the ethernet connections. It should be gigabit.

The ATT modem is wired directly to the switch and sits in the smart box. The Gateway Eero is connected to the switch but in another room using the Cat5e wire the builders used.

Like I said in OP the Eero app is reporting 700-800Mbps internet speeds but it seems like the eero itself isn't pushing that out.

My next test is to completely remove Eero from the network and test wired performance around the house.

u/fuckflyingpigs · 1 pointr/pcgaming

Need a 8 port switch since my router doesn't have enough ports. Will I have any problems with this?

u/Cesar_Shibes · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I was looking into the linked switch for that, I believe it provides POE.

It doesn't specifically say it acts as a POE injector though. I need to power 4 cameras and would prefer to power them with only one POE injector. Sort of confused here.

u/Sharkeybtm · 1 pointr/homelab

TP-Link 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet PoE Desktop Switch with 4-PoE Ports (TL-SG1008P)

Edit: or you can just use a cheap injector with gigabit capabilities.
WT-GPOE-4 gigabit Poe injector for 802.3af devices - 4 Port Power over Ethernet wall mount with shielded RJ45 - power supplies available separately

u/culb77 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks for your input. I went with a TP Link AP system.

  • Router
  • Switch
  • AP

    It was much less than the Ubiquiti system($180 total), and has a single, good UI. The switch allowed me to hardwire 5 devices, which would have been expensive with Ubiquiti. It met my needs very nicely. Thanks again!
u/pic2022 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

hmmm I was looking at TP Link 8-Port PoE Switch but you brought up a great point about just using the same interface, so I'm all for that actually. Can you save the day one more time and either recommending the Switch 8 or the Switch 8-60W I know the only difference is the PoE port but, hey man, you helped me out so much so far, I might as well pick your brain. Oh yeah hahaha I'm so sorry about all this.... since I decided to get a switch... I went back to the USG..... good decision? hahaha

u/w00tiSecurity_weenie · 1 pointr/homelab

i already impulsively bought this and that router isnt gigabit :(;amp;psc=1

u/Kitten-Mittons · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Switch is a TP-Link PoE gigabit switch

It's actually an AC68P, sorry, but I don't even see a QoS option in there (possibly because it's in AP mode?) Here's a screenshot

I have this problem even if I plug the device directly into the fios router too, if that makes a difference

u/0110010001100010 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

&gt;Should I just plant a couple hundred dollars of gear up there?

Unless it's hardened gear (nothing on your parts list is) I wouldn't. High heat + consumer grade electronics = failure.

&gt;My solution is to have the gear sitting in an office closet that will stay cool and run the cable line to the modem there.

This would work fine, as long as you can keep the runs under 100m (gigabit spec on CAT5e). Also make sure you terminate everything properly.

Another option that comes to mind is stick a hardened switch in the attic then drop a single gigabit run from that down to your Linysys router in the office closet.

Something else to keep in mind is that for roughly the same $200 you are spending on that router you could get an EdgeRouter and AP and have better performance all the way around. There are also cheaper switch options.

u/sivartk · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm looking to upgrade my network when it cools off and I can get in the attic without losing 20lbs and TP-Link 16 or 24 port switch is at the top of my list. I have a cheap trendnet 8 port switch that has been running 24/7 since 2008 and I've had no problems with it.

u/adreamofironice · 1 pointr/homelab

I'm not sure what you mean by "controllable"...but if you are content with your current router's options and just need additional ports you could just go with a basic 8 port gigabit non-managed switch for like ~$20.

Here is one for cheap.

u/jryanishere · 1 pointr/homeautomation

IF it is wired correctly for cat5e and not just phone, you need a Router (which I wouldn't keep inside that metal box.)

And a switch to distribute it to the rest of the jack.

u/csd1722 · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

Yeh it can, but for that you can most likely just get a smaller switch and this is designed for rackmounting.

For my LAN needs I use;amp;qid=1426346212&amp;amp;sr=8-3&amp;amp;keywords=trendnet+switch which can connect 7 machines up to the same link.

u/DestinysLostSoul · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Sorry to hijack the post, but if I used a switch I already had with the R6300v2 on stock firmware as the AP, the switch would be the best way to route all my wired connections for the best speeds? Or should I go from modem to router to switch and connect all the wired connections then? I was also hoping to implement Pi-hole. Thoughts?

u/_Abobo · 1 pointr/PFSENSE
u/cmilkosk · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

Yeah, I was thinking about doing the same. There’s a cheap Netgear managed switch that looks like it would do the trick, but for the same reason as you mentioned, I won’t be able to trace what device it’s coming from.

Do you do anything else to help trace activity and log the urls or domains visited by device? I don’t know if a WiFi sniffing solution is overkill/overcomplicated.

u/jimphreak · 1 pointr/homelab

You can get a really cheap "smart" switch that can at least pass VLAN tags provided that your pfSense box is where they are defined. For example I have a few of these cheap Netgear switches on my network that can pass VLAN tags and thus you can assign different ports to different VLANs.


u/cmacmahon-netgate · 1 pointr/PFSENSE

SG-3100 and 4 to 8 port managed switch is still cheaper than this obsolete hardware.


5 port managed switch on amazon:

A rack shelf:;amp;i=electronics&amp;amp;ref=nb_sb_noss_1

Still cheaper, and you further the pfSense project with your purchase of the SG-3100

u/UnFukWit4ble · 1 pointr/sonos

Google Wifi Mesh and Netgear ethernet switch. I don’t have ethernet wires running across the ceiling/walls.

I hide my Wifi Hub and Switch under/behind the sofa.

Google Wifi

Netgear Ethernet Switch

Cat 7

You can even do it on a budget by buying some old AC router and installing Tomato USB on it and turning it into a wireless ethernet bridge.

u/grog189 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

\^This. Unless you are hanging a L2 switch off one port of the router and everything plugged into that switch will be on the same vlan then you will need a managed switch that you can tag the vlans properly. You would then essentially need to make the port between the router and the switch a trunk/have multiple vlans.

This looks like it would help you configure vlans for your router.


Here is a couple L2 Managed switches that would probably work just fine.





Alternatively a L3 switch would probably work too as it should route.

u/acarruth · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Do you know which Ubiquiti router would accomplish this? Would the Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway be the cheapest option?

Would this managed switch work as well? It seems to be quite a bit cheaper than the USG.

Also, by this does it mean it's not possible with my current setup?


u/bastian74 · 1 pointr/wireshark;amp;psc=1

This switch will let you tap 1000mb ethernet.
You will get other players IPs (at least in some games) but it may be difficult to determine who's is who's.

u/Schlossi144 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking