Best computer networking transceivers according to redditors

We found 481 Reddit comments discussing the best computer networking transceivers. We ranked the 150 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Computer Networking Transceivers:

u/TheChrisLick · 25 pointsr/electronics

More Pics

Over the past several weeks, I've installed some LED strips throughout my Kitchen Cabinets.

I used ESP8266's and diyHue to control WS2812B LED Strips in my Kitchen...

Missing a few capacitors at the moment.. Will install soon!

Onto the bathrooms next with much smaller PSUs...

​

For those wandering..


Here is a general list of what was used here:

  • Raspberry Pi 3 B+
    • You might be able to use variants of the Pi.. Not sure which others work. This is what I used.
    • You will need to plug the Pi directly into the router that you intended to use with your lights and ESP8266's.
  • diyHue installed on Pi
  • Philips Hue App
  • ESP8266
    • This is a breakout board - you can use a smaller module if preferred.
    • At the current point, you need one per strip. Others have said otherwise - although I haven't looked into it yet.
  • 5v WS2812B LED Strip
  • 5v Power Supply
    • You can use smaller power supplies. I just chose to run all wires back to one location with a bigger supply.
      • Every 50 LEDs uses about 3 amps (5v LEDs only in this case.. amperage would change with different voltages).
  • 18 Gauge Wire
    • You only need 18/3 wire if you intend to use a larger amount of amps. Check ampacity tables to see what type of wire you would need for how many LEDs you plan to run in sequence (after calculating amperage). I used 18/4 to have an extra wire pulled for future uses.
    • Doesn't have to be solid - although it is recommended if you use the clips.
  • 10-22 Gauge Terminal Block
    • not needed, but these make it easier to connect data and power to a line that runs to the strip
  • Capacitors
    • Not needed but highly recommended to protect LEDs.
    • Placed between line and ground of each "To-Strip" line. I put them at the terminal block.
    • If you aren't familiar with capacitors, make sure to locate and use the ground line properly.. I've seen a lot of people use them backwards - which fries the capacitors. Ground lines are generally longer, or have a marking indicating its side of the capacitor.
  • Wire-to-Strip Clips
    • Not needed. Just helps by avoiding soldering. Installations might look cleaner soldering...
    • I recommend Solid Core wire for these clips. Stranded wire can (and likely will) cause crosses between lines.

      ​

      I have used 330ohm resistors in the data line, in the past, with other WS2812B installations. They seemed to mess up the signal flow when using them with the ESP8266's, but I could have gotten a bad batch of them.
      Using resistors in lighting data lines has always been recommended.. Resistors in lighting data lines generally "terminate" the line.. They can drown-out and prevent feedback, essentially.
u/PCGamerJim · 15 pointsr/PFSENSE

More pics.

Some info: I used an old IBM server with an Intel Xeon Quad-core CPU @ 2.4GHz & 16GB of RAM. I think the specs may be overkill for what I'm doing, but it's what I had on hand.

I installed a dual port Converged Network Adapter into the computer and then two 850nm MultiMode Fiber transceivers. For those who are unfamiliar, the transceivers plug into the square holes on the Converged Network Adapter. (The square holes are called "SFP+ ports".)

I then connected one side to the the switch from my ISP and the other side to the fiber switch for my home LAN.

I'd be happy to answer any questions, but if you have time, take a look at this article I wrote about my setup. The article has a lot more pictures and a video.

Edit: Also, if there are any logs I can share, or benchmarks I can run, let me know. I'd be happy to do whatever with this thing if it could provide meaningful information to the community.

Edit2: fixed link for network adapter

u/KingdaToro · 11 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Take off all the crap at the end. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/

u/EODdoUbleU · 10 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Only the 48 and XG have 10G SFP (SFP+) ports. You could link both ports and aggregate them, but I'm not sure it's worth the extra cost and effort.

That being said, the 10GTek ones on Amazon have worked fine for me.

Edit: Added link.

u/Prygon · 9 pointsr/headphones

Fuck that company. Never again. The "IEM" I bought that was shilled on head-fi was an earbud with weird housing and it sounded like shit.

Here is the Fake IEM: https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Beta-Noise-Isolating-Headphones/product-reviews/B005IF3CE8/

u/ssl-3 · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Oh.

Yeah, you're fucked.

How about optical isolation? https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT

Two of those and a duplex LC multimode fiber patch cord make for lovely isolation.

Put your modem on one side, and your router on the other. Put some physical distance (a few feet is plenty) between them.

u/Lee_Ars · 7 pointsr/homelab

Thanks :)

No cloudkey—I'm hosting the unifi controller in an LXC container on the SYS-5028D-TN4T server at frame right. I've considered switching to a cloudkey and probably will at some point, but keeping things in the LXC container has some advantages (especially with backups, since I can take advantage of LXC + ZFS and do snapshot replication).

Transceivers are Ubiquiti-branded ones off of Amazon—seemed the safest choice.

The DACs are all 10Gtek (the ubiquiti-compatible ones). I would have preferred to stick with DACs for everything, but those two ports connect to a couple of Windows PCs on the other side of the room and it was simpler and easier to get fiber over to them.

u/happycamp2000 · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Not sure how long you need. But have you thought about using a Direct Attached Copper (DAC)?

I bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA

And used it to connect my Ubiquti EdgeSwitch-8 to a Mikrotik switch. Worked just fine and is running at 1Gbit/sec as the switches only support SFP.

u/g2g079 · 5 pointsr/esp8266

I originally had my garage Controller using an Uno that spoke to an esp8266. I found working with the ESPs AT firmware over serial a royal pain in the ass. I have since switched to just using an esp32 (esp8266 would work just the same) instead of the Uno. The esp boards are much more powerful micros and can still be programmed via Uno. Also I didn't need a logic level convertor between the two. I would seriously consider getting One of these for $9 and cut out the uno completely. What took me days to get working on the Uno/esp combo took an hour with the esp alone.

u/CyanBlob · 5 pointsr/arduino

Inspired by /u/commanderkull's post here, I turned an LED-matrix into a performance monitoring tool for my Linux PC. In the gif I am stopping+restarting a Windows VM to show what it looks like when the load changes (of course Windows blue screens, right?)
I wrote a small server to grab the current CPU, memory, and swap usage of my system when the ESP8266 requests it. The ESP8266 then parses the the string and lights the LEDs as necessary.
I have CPU usage displayed in blue LEDs, memory in green, and swap in red. The three colors are added together when displayed (i.e., all the LEDs turn right if each of the above are at 100%)
The code can be found on my GitHub. It's quick and likely dirty, but it gets the job done. The server doesn't cleanly handle the client disconnected+reconnecting right now, but I might add that in the future. As I hinted above, the server only works on Linux right now. Feel free to fork my repo to add Windows support if you like.
This is my first project that I'd consider more or less complete, but it could stand to look a bit nicer. If anyone has any suggestions for that, I'm all ears.

Compnents used:
NodeMCU ESP8266
LED Matrix
Misc. jumper wires

u/locutusofborg780 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Typically these are for connecting switches together without using up one of the regular copper switch ports. Potentially over longer distances than 1GbaseT can support (>100M)

They're basically like any other switch port, however they will require compatible optics or for short runs, a DAC cable like this one can be used.

u/Ipecactus · 5 pointsr/Ubiquiti

And replace www with smile.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/

:)

u/porkchopnet · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I would bury fiber in that PEX tube of yours.

When you're using something galvanic (like cat5/cat6) to connect two different buildings with two different grounds, you have the potential (heh) to run into trouble with something called a ground loop. I'm not sure I currently have the eloquence to explain it, but best case it would reduce your reliability, worst case it'll cause a fire. This is why national fire code requires sub panels to be grounded to the main panel, NOT to its own ground rod.

Fiber optics don't carry electricity, just pulses of light, so this isn't a concern.

As far as what to get, at 125ft, you can just get a 60M multimode fiber patch cable to run through the PEX like this one: https://www.amazon.com/FiberCablesDirect-Multimode-196-85ft-0-5M-300M-100gbase/dp/B01I2EJO98
...and on each end get a multimode gigabit converter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT

The important bit is both transceivers should have the same wavelength (850nm, in this case), the same speed (gigabit), and a connector type that matches the fiber patch cable (LC).

Other words you'll see...
Core size (62.5/125 vs 50/125) doesn't matter if you're just using one cable (but 50/125 is newer/better).
OM1/OM2/OM3/etc... doesn't matter at 1gbit, but bigger numbers will give you future potential of 100gbit... which you will never ever need.
Plenum is the cladding type. When a plenum cable burns it doesn't outgas harmful chemicals.
Duplex means two fibers next to each other, one send one receive. You want this.

Why not wireless? Because this is cheaper and 10x more reliable.

u/rageaccount373733 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

With regards to the 500ft distance, him wanting bulletproof. Go look at fiber. You can get some gigabit fiber bridges for a few hundred bucks.

Example:
TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000M Multi-Mode SC Fiber (MC200CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVRLZI/

u/karmaths · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000M Multi-Mode SC Fiber (MC200CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVRLZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uC7RDb98XQ22G

Two of those can also do the job.

u/Iarduino · 4 pointsr/arduino

Wemos and NodeMCU are popular breakout boards for the esp8266. Basically they take the esp8266 and make it easier to work with. You can program them in a variety of ways including the arduino IDE. The downside is there is only 1 analog pin. Since you are intending on using photoresistors you'll have to decide on a workaround since you will need multiple pins. This should be easier to do (and cheaper) than getting wifi up and running on an arduino. In my opinion using an arduino for a wifi project is not worth doing.


I've used the following NodeMCU: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486494246&sr=1-2&keywords=nodemcu


Took me about 10 minutes to get an mqtt connection up and running with the arduino IDE.


I would stay away from starter kits since you have a specific project in mind and just buy a variety pack of resistors, some capacitors, leds, and then whatever you would need for your project. You'll just spend more money on a starter kit and you'll likely need to buy additional parts down the line.

u/mdwski · 4 pointsr/ethtrader

You'll need one of these https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495988236&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=ESP+duino

It's a wifi enabled Arduino which you can curl http requests to coinmarketcaps api or any other site to get the ticker value of ETH


I couldn't find the exact display listed here but you should be able to use the digital I/O do drive this https://www.amazon.com/Diymall-Serial-128x64-Display-Arduino/dp/B01HHOETIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495988337&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+mini+display

There are loads of tutorials floating around for arduinos and the display will likely have a public module avail. You can of course use any display.

u/schorhr · 4 pointsr/arduino

Hello :-)

What components do you have? Do you have a RC transmitter and RC receiver? Or built-in to some cheap RC car?

Basically he used a multimeter to figure out where each signal "ends up" and an Arduino + optocouplers (to detect the signal without frying the 5v inputs).

If you have a "real" RC receiver, you can read the PWM output (1 2)

If you want to control a car via your computer, consider the ESP8266. It's a micro-controller with built-in wifi. You can get it as a complete board (d1 mini, nodemcu) for under $3 in China or under $10 in the US. Hook up a H-Bridge or motor ESC ($5-$10) and you can skip hacking the existing remote & receiver.

u/dddlllooowww · 4 pointsr/Ubiquiti
u/scott-42 · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.

Equipment:

u/rubs_tshirts · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Not really... switch / gbic module / fiber (very superficial amazon search)

u/sycho · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

LTP: Bell Fibe uses a Standard (but whitelisted) SFP module in the Modem. VLAN 35 is your internet with PPPoE login, VLAN 36 is your IPTV with DHCP.

I took mine out of the modem, shoved it in this thing:

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518306025&sr=1-2&keywords=sfp+to+ethernet&dpID=41QXjapF-WL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And then I configured my EdgeRouter using the following guide

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/Edgerouter-Lite-Getting-rid-of-Bell-Canada-s-Homehub2000/td-p/1462027


A few notes. It took about an hour or so to troubleshoot why I wasn't getting TV. My area uses a different Static Route than the posters area did. Basically just use the gateway of whatever VLAN 36 gets as a IP Address as the static route. Haven't had an issue since.
You should be able to set it up in most routers that support VLANS and static routes.

u/Exfiltrate · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Where are you going to be running this? It this going to be buried outdoors? If so, you definitely do not want ethernet. When it gets hit by lightning you will have big problems, as the electricity will go through the cable into your devices. You should do fiber if this is the case. If you're worried about the cable being too fragile, or if it won't be running through conduit, get direct burial fiber.

2x https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Supporting-MC220L/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492989996&sr=8-1&keywords=MC220L

2x https://www.amazon.com/TL-SM311LM-Multi-mode-MiniGBIC-interface-distance/dp/B003CFATYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492989996&sr=8-2&keywords=MC220L

1x https://www.amazon.com/Multimode-Duplex-Gigabit-Fiber-Optic/dp/B006KSXHC4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492990156&sr=8-3&keywords=100m+multimode+fiber

Total: $219.85

u/WilliamTM · 3 pointsr/technology

First off - no idea where you live, so you'll want to check out Ubiquiti's distributor list for where to buy all this. They do have an online store but it's US only - I'll hazard a guess you're in the US so I'll link to US stores.

I'll also explain each option in more detail for you...mostly because I've got nothing better to do right now. :D

So if your main objective is price, 900MHz or 2.4GHz WiFi will be cheaper than fiber. 900MHz is supposed to be great through trees, but depending on how thick they are, for such a short distance, 2.4GHz might work. Obviously we're talking branches and leaves here, if you have a line of 100 tree trunks to go through...pretty sure nothing will work!

  • NanoStation Loco M900: https://store.ubnt.com/products/900-mhz-loco
  • NanoStation M2: https://store.ubnt.com/collections/wireless/products/nanostation2
  • NanoStation M2 Loco (cheaper, but seems to be sold out everywhere): https://store.ubnt.com/collections/wireless/products/2-4-ghz-loco

    Obviously you'll need one on each end (and of the same model!) - then you just run a single ethernet cable inside, into a PoE injector (which usually comes with them - it's a little box that you plug your local network into as well as power. It combines the two and sends it over the single ethernet cable to the NanoStation so you don't need to run power to it). You do need to set them up (ideally in the same room before you install them), but once set up and in place you should be all set.

    The fact that they work over PoE is actually somewhat useful - Ethernet's max distance is around 100 meters. To be on the safe side, I'd generally stick to a max run of 75 meters. So, you can run Ethernet from each building to either bring the APs closer, or to find a better line of sight option through your trees (eg, if they thin out a little in certain spots). As long as you mount them above head height, and your terrain is flat, you can pretty much stuck the APs anywhere as they're weatherproof.

    The main problem with WiFi is the speed. On 900MHz I believe the total capacity (tx/rx) in ideal situations is around 76Mbit, and on 2.4GHz I think that improves a little to around 105Mbit. Still not ideal. You'll max out your DSL, but file transfers and stuff like that will be slow. If you can find a way of having them see each other without trees in the way, the 5GHz AC gear is faster, but be warned it's a lot more susceptible to interference, so only do this if you can physically see the AP at each end with a bit of space around it.

    Now, onto my prefered option - fibre. This will cost quite a bit more, but you'll have a much more reliable setup, with no maintenance and potentially speeds of up to 10 or even 100Gbit down the line if you upgrade the equipment on each end.

    Fibre is pretty simple (sortof) - you've got two options:

  • Cheap: 2x Gigabit Ethernet to SFP converters, 2x SFP modules, and 1x single mode fibre with LC connectors.
  • Expensive: 2x SFP switches, 2x SFP modules, and 1x single mode fibre with LC connectors.

    So, for the "cheap" option, you'll want:

  1. 2x of these TP-Link boxes - $25 each
  2. 2x of the UF-SM-1G-S (1-Pair) SFP modules - $22 pair
  3. 1x single-mode LC-connector fibre cable (more on that later) - $varies

    For the "expensive" option, you can replace the ethernet to SFP converter boxes with an actual ethernet switch. This is my preferred way of doing it but it's a lot more expensive. You'll want:

  4. 2x SFP switches on each end, such as the $199 ES-8-150W. If you have or are thinking of going for a UniFi setup at any point (eg for their excellent WiFi APs for home/office use), I'd go for the $199 US-8-150W instead, though keep in mind you'll need a UniFi Controller to operate it (either a CloudKey or the controller software running on a local computer or Amazon AWS instance or similar). The EdgeSwitch is standalone so will work without the controller.
  5. 2x SFP modules on each end - again, same as above, the UF-SM-1G-S (1-Pair) - $22 for the pair.
  6. 1x single-mode LC-connector fibre cable - $varies

    So, for the fibre cable - this is a little trickier. You can get patch cables (pre-terminated) just like with ethernet, but - also like with ethernet - they're usually short lengths. Ubiquiti's longest pre-terminated offering is 300 feet. So, you can either terminate it yourself if you have the skill and the ^^^^very ^^^^expensive equipment, or order some pre-terminated cable from a local company - there are plenty of places that'll do this, so have a Google or alternatively, ask on /r/Ubiquiti as I'm sure the folks over there will have some recommendations. The key thing is, you want one strand of single mode fibre with LC connectors on each end. If you send them a link to the SFP module you're using, they'll be able to give you the right cable.

    Finally, you'll need to choose what type of cable you want - armoured or unarmoured. Armoured cable is more expensive, but a lot more durable. If you're burying it without a conduit to run it though, you absolutely must go for armoured cable. If you can run a conduit, ideally, I'd still stick an armoured cable in it for peace of mind, but you should be able to get away with unarmoured cable if not. Also, be careful with it - unlike with ethernet, bends must be gentle - so no sharp right angles.

    The unarmoured cable is around $1/m-ish - armoured will be more than that.

    PS: Sorry, that got way too long and detailed, but...everything you'd ever want to know is there so good luck. :P
u/tangobravoyankee · 3 pointsr/homelab

Definitely go fiber between structures to keep them electrically isolated. If your switches have SFP ports, you can eBay the modules for a couple bucks each. Otherwise a media converter for 1Gbe costs under $30, plus the SFP.

http://www.amazon.com/MC220L-Converter-1000Mbps-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0

Monoprice has 50m LC/LC cables for $50. On eBay you can find 100m cables for not much more. With pre-terminated cables you don't need any special tools or expertise, just be careful of extreme bends.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10237&cs_id=1023704&p_id=11809&seq=1&format=2

u/dlangille · 3 pointsr/homelab

The cable is fiber optic.

The two things are transceivers. Take a signal and convert it to light (and vice versa).

In short, I'm adding fiber to my homelab for no reason whatsoever.

I'll take the patch cable from my ISP's modem/bridge, and attach it to a TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter. One of those transceivers will go into that media converter.

The other transceiver will go into my switch.

The fiber then links the two transceivers and complete the electrical isolation between my gear and my ISP.

This will be the second such electrical isolation... because I have Verizon FiOS, which is fiber.

u/drtwist · 3 pointsr/amateurradio

As others have stated, use fiber. cat5 is hard to ground, it's unsafe, and it's against building code in many places. At work we just connected up our new shop to the old one using fiber and it was way cheaper than I thought it was going to be.

We used these media converters with this SFP to convert Gb ethernet to multimode fiber. we ran conduit out to the new shop for the new cable and blew twine through the conduit to get a near exact length for the fiber run. we bought a 310 foot custom, pre-terminated cable with a pulling eye on it from Fiber Cables Direct. Pulling it was easy (use lube!) ans painless.

u/KungFuTortilla · 3 pointsr/arduino

How is the servo motor related to the power setting on the fan? Maybe you have a system where it does the switching, but anyway I just amazon searched "arduino wireless" and this is what I got:

I actually bought these, haven't used em yet.

Wifi Sheild

Bluetooth

I think it should be formatted right. For me, ardiuno has so much stuff, equipment is the easy stuff, programming gets tough lol.

u/vnangia · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

SFP (1G) and SFP+ (10G) are not necessarily interchangeable so I would get the SFP modules for that switch. I have these 10Gtek modules and they work flawlessly. Mod /u/mrjester has recently recommended looking at FiberStore but unless you're buying in bulk, the shipping cost may upset your math.

u/Avernar · 3 pointsr/homelab

Since you just want 1Gbps just use this one: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-GE-T-1000Base-T-Transceiver-connector/dp/B00U77IJ2M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

I have it in the one of the ports of the same NIC you have.

u/WessideMD · 3 pointsr/arduino

>I just used the screen listed above, and this:
>
>https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK
>
>. The animations, and graphical assets were stored in memory using this method:
>
>http://www.rinkydinkelectronics.com/t\_imageconverter565.php

Additionally, I used the PxMatrix library to control the LEDs https://github.com/2dom/PxMatrix

u/cleansweep9 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

If you're willing to fire up the Arduino IDE, you could use just about any ESP8266 product to do this. Here's a NodeMCU board I've been using for projects for less than $10. It's been easier to work with than I expected.

u/mac_question · 3 pointsr/BackYardChickens

Hey I work in IoT & I'm currently working on some related stuff, but which is totally unrelated to chickens ;)

I have an Rpi around somewhere, but my work is mostly on ESP8266's like the NodeMCU which you can program right in the Arduino IDE.

What are you specifically trying to do? If it's just a webcam... honestly, the off-the-shelf wireless cams are so cheap now that they are certainly a tempting alternative. Also many have motion detection etc.

Not to dissuade you from this project, just sayin ;)

Temp / humidity / light levels are also an option, maybe could get fancy with a methane sensor to determine if the coop needs to be cleaned... scales to weigh the chickens... egg detectors...

u/Cloudedskate · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

Hands down, this is the most useful thing I have created in my time brewing.

I set up a ESP8266 chip with DS18B20 temperature probes. I use the MQTT protocol, which allows for internet connected devices to communicate with each other, to send temperature data to a RPi that is running an Apache server which displays a graph of the temperature over time. I can access this data any time on my local network.

I had done basic Arduino projects up until this point but I had very little trouble setting it up. You can wire up multiple temp sensors in parallel if you have multiple fermentations going on. I use stainless steel thermowells to get the temp inside the vessel. I also use this set up while I am mashing to monitor my temps from a different room.

Here's some of the links I found useful while researching all this.

A basic wiring guide

Basics of setting up MQTT

Displaying the data in a graph

I can provide you with my code if you do decide to go down this route.

Here's what one of my graphs looks like for a mash. The temperature jumps around due to me moving the probe and stirring.

There are definitely a lot of improvements I could make. For one thing, the RPi doesn't save a history of the temperatures it receives, so it will only display data while I have the page up. I have some ideas about how to save this data, just haven't attempted anything yet.

u/atreyuroc · 3 pointsr/electronics

Don't think Im dogging you, because I'm not. I think what you did was awesome. But this is a bit over kill. Take a look at something a bit more compact like.

This board is an arduino with built in wifi

u/ErebusBat · 3 pointsr/arduino

I have had very good luck with the HiLetgo boards from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES

Even though a few have released their magic smoke and no longer work.... let's just say that I was conducting "endurance" testing on them... ya, endurance testing... that was it.

u/hwillis · 3 pointsr/robotics

If you want to build a quadcopter, /r/Multicopter and /r/multicopterbuilds are great. They have lots of build guides and advice.

I would just buy one. Focus on one thing at a time. Whatever you do, resist the temptation to get something bigger than a dinner plate. You will underestimate how insanely loud these things are indoors. Smaller quads will also be more resistant to wind and prop backwash. Here's one for $40.

Here's a very good quad for $125 with a very nice camera. The flight controller can be loaded with betaflight, so you can modify the firmware to do whatever you want. Jacking into SPI might be a little hairy.

If you want to build the DWM1001 into the quad, you'll need to be writing C firmware. If you haven't flashed an IC before, then that's kind of jumping right into the deep end. It would be way easier to pull 3.3 V from something and use an ESP8266 or similar. That way you can use Arduino libraries and your life will be way easier.

I've also got a suggestion if you want a longer term goal: SLAM with DSO. Stream video over wifi with websockets to a laptop, do DSO or one of the newer algorithms there, and send instructions back to the quad. From there you can do all sorts of interesting stuff since you're basically generating dense 3d models (point clouds) of real spaces. Vision is huge and full of interesting problems.

u/VanGoFuckYourself · 3 pointsr/Kombucha
u/DarkbunnySC · 3 pointsr/amazonecho

The shades are probably over built, after the first set of steppers I tried didn't have enough torque I just said screw out and bought planetary geared steppers, which are a bit pricey.


Nema 17 Geared Stepper Motor Gear Ratio 5:1 3D Printer Extruder Motor DIY CNC Robotics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QA5WSDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yFTKzbHPVBPDE


SMAKN® TB6600 Upgraded Version 32 Segments 4A 40V 57/86 Stepper Motor Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016ZJS1FA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uGTKzbJ5XCMGK


HiLetgo New Version NodeMCU LUA WiFi Internet ESP8266 Development https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9GTKzbEZ1TQSP


Outdoor Roller Sun Shade, 6-Feet by 6-Feet, Cabo Sand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU5O2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lITKzbW1VKMNA



Here's the post for the pool control stuff:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/6efion/i_built_a_cell_phone_pool_controller_interface/


http://imgur.com/a/qvrCE

u/theJooj · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I've built a few of these using this version of the DHT22 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SMNBJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's more expensive because it comes with the resistors and everything already built in, no need for a breadboard.

I've built a few different versions of this, some using the Pi. The Pi is definitely overkill but if you have a B+ laying around then it's no cost to you and you may as well use it. If you want to get something smaller that also works, I am currently running mine off of these NodeMCU ESP8266 boards.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/danpage617 · 3 pointsr/homelab
u/mircolino · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Use DACs: they are cheaper, have lower latency, and (mine) need a < 2.5" clearance from the switch faceplate.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ

I have them on SFP+ ports but people in the (Amazon) comment section are mentioning they are SFP backward compatible and working fine with Ubiquiti switches.

u/d3rkrox · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Thanks is that the only way or would this cable work?
10G SFP+ Cable 0.5-Meter Passive Direct Attach Copper Twinax Cable (DAC) for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU0.5M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, ZTE https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e96SDb9PZAA07

u/kevvok · 2 pointsr/networking

I found this one for only 40, which seems pretty affordable. You'll definitely want somewhere with a good return policy because there can occasionally be issues mixing vendors with these guys, so you'll want to try them out with your switches. Usually, the prices can be similar since the major cost is in the optical transceiver. I recommend going with GBICs if you can afford it because my experience has been that they require less maintenance than external boxes. For reference, we replaced our 100 megabit converters with GBICs as part of a backbone upgrade last year and found that they virtually dropped our fiber maintenance time to zero.

edit just realized the reseller is Amazon, so you should have good luck there.

u/gusgizmo · 2 pointsr/networking

Options:

u/Sparkyy21 · 2 pointsr/homelab

If you are looking to protect your network from a strike from the cable line, take a look at this instead.

https://www.amazon.com/MC220L-Converter-1000Mbps-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0

It's much, much cheaper and I have been using mine for over a year now. I have mine set as ISP modem --> TP-Link converter --> HP Switch --> Astaro UTM.

My HP switch converts it from SFP back to RJ45 on it's on VLAN and only needed a 1m fiber line.

u/yyzsam · 2 pointsr/homelab

There is no effective way of doing that with the HH3k. It's just a basic residential gateway.

You can get the same card off of Ebay like I did for $60-$90. I bought the DA2.

Previous to that I used a media converter to bypass the HH3000.

But you are still stuck 1gbps.


TP-Link MC220L Gigabit Media Converter, 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000Mbps SFP Slot Supporting MiniGBIC modules, Chassis mountable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zEmsDb74KKVGJ

If you are looking at making a custom driver for an SFP+ NIC you need to get specific cards. Read here for more info. https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r32230041-Internet-Bypassing-the-HH3K-up-to-2-5Gbps-using-a-BCM57810S-NIC~start=360#end

I'm tempted to get the Ubiquiti US16XG($800) or wait until Bell rolls out 5gbps service and upgrade their ONT to SFP+.

u/minnesnowta · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I did a quick search on amazon and found this: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-4-Port-Gigabit-Switch-TEG-S51SFP/dp/B019IHWSF0/

Or this (converts SFP to ethernet - basically a 1 port switch): https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Supporting-MC220L/dp/B003CFATL0

u/datascope11 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I’m in Ontario and have removed the HH3000 out of network the first day I got it. Tech showed up and installed, 5 mins after he left it was back in its box where it’s sat for many months collecting dust.

Easiest way to do this without buying a router or switch is to just get an SFP>RJ45 Media converter. You can remove the module from the HH3000 and put it into the converter. Feed your router WAN port with RJ45 from the converter. Then, you must setup your router with PPPoE credentials for Bell and tag VLAN 35 on the WAN port.

This is the converter I am using.

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0

If you have a router that accepts SFP, you may be able to do this without the converter. I say “may” because I’ve read it works with a USG Pro, but I can’t get it to work on my UDM Pro. It’s still in beta, so I’m hopeful.

Edit: this all assumes you don’t need/have Bell TV service or home phone. That gets more complex.

u/BroadStreet_Bully5 · 2 pointsr/networking

This is the one we got.

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, Up to 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000Mbps SFP Slot Supporting MiniGBIC Modules (MC220L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rqEyCbBVG9VGR

u/zim2411 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Back in the day in my Cisco networking classes, they made a big deal about not using copper wiring underground for signal cables because of the risk of lightning strikes increases since you're tying into multiple buildings now. I don't know how frequent that really is, but fiber optic lines were the go-to solution. This may also be covered by your local building code. Celerity makes a fiber optic HDMI cable for around $250. For networking, you can get a pair of these adapters which I guess you need SFP adapters for to match the type of fiber line you get.

u/Jkolorz · 2 pointsr/ontario

Here is the Media converter you need

In some reviews on this page , people mention "VLAN 37" on the fibre side. The other side ends up being ethernet to your router.

Again, you need your PPPoe credentisls from Bell.

When you're calling them for it...don't tell them what you're doing. Tell them you're putting a secondary router downstream from the home hub 3000.'

Also; Don't be a dumbass. If your internet goes down and you need to troubleshoot...or a bell tech is visiting your home and they need to troubleshoot ...recconect your home hub 3000. They're obviously not going to support you if you're doing your own thing.

u/MustangGT089 · 2 pointsr/homelab

Just bought supplies last night to implement this.

TP Link MC220L + SFP + fiber cable + Intel 1000 MF card.

I think everything together was around $80. Fiber NIC is compatible with pfSense. I found a Dell OEM card for $20 on eBay. Card shouldn't be a fake Intel.

I bought the multimode fiber SFP so both that and NIC have LC connections.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CFATL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465823649&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mc220l&dpPl=1&dpID=41QXjapF-WL&ref=plSrch

http://m.ebay.com/itm/201577163022

u/strolls · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

IMO you're best off just getting a wireless bridge - if you want to go all posh and name-brand then there's a 4-port Linksys for $50 on Amazon, but I'm seeing no-name single-port port ones for half that, or less, on eBay.

EDIT: in fact, here is a semi-reputable brand 4-port for $25 from Amazon.

u/Scooter214 · 2 pointsr/BitcoinMining

You just need a wireless bridge. This one is pretty nice: http://amzn.com/B0056VP0KS

u/nyda · 2 pointsr/headphones

Don't buy headsets if you want quality products. Especially not Turtle Beach, they're the worst out there.

Looks to me like you're looking for something around $100. Here's what you could have that would best everything at that price range:

Headphones: Sennheiser 518

Microphone: Zalman Mic

Headset buddy to put them together to work on consoles.

Total: $96.50-

If you don't have the funds right now and don't want to wait to get them... well get something as cheap as possible (like these IEM/mic: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IF3CE8/) and wait until you do have the money to buy the above.

u/keanex · 2 pointsr/headphones

These are the Beta. When I reviewed them and added them to the guide, there was another Beta which have been discontinued. I wouldn't buy the Beta for $30 (even though they're worth at least $50) only because they go on sale for $13 regularly.

I'm finally purchasing some Monoprice 8320 though to see what the deal is, will be back in a month or so with a full review.

u/kinalis · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

I don't want to sound harsh, but skull candies come in a reasonably nice package but their average buds with meh audio. Heavy on the bass, but muddy over all. You can have s4i's (still muddy but more comfortable) for about 30, If you can find some MH1c's on sale you are getting amazing phones! Priced at 30 bucks they are a steal, at 40 I still don't see better phones for the price, or even 10 or 20 bucks more.

But! You can still get Skullcandies for 10-20 bucks. If that is your price range then check out Brainwavz Beta v2. These used to be a pretty good deal when they cost $40 bucks. Amazon has them for 11.50, cheaper than most skullcandies and there sound quality is excellent and there noise isolation is pretty good too. If your in the market buy these!

u/OmegaMaker · 2 pointsr/oculus

I don't know how many Hobby Electronics people we have in here but typically speaking when you develop a product you use someone else's transition tech. They make it super easy to integrate into electronics. You can do any of this with an Arduino now if you want to see how easy it is. And there are tons of options out there and just a super quick search on amazon shows they carry quite a few. Bellow is a few links to some kits you can buy off amazon right now. These kits let you link over Bluetooth or RF or even Wi-fi. So I don't really think valve would waist the time to make a completely new method of wireless communication for their hardware when so much is readily available that is reliable. Also when it comes to wireless transmission you only have a certain band of radio waves you can use commercially and they are all already used. I took apart a wireless Wi-Mote and it had one of these chips soldered right into the board. You can also see these chips soldering into the sixense as well. It is super common to do this. Also I think everyone here knows the PS3 and PS4 both use Bluetooth for their controller, you can even pair them with the Gear VR. So it is highly unlikely that valve has anything special here.

Low Power Bluetooth

RF-Transmitter

Normal Bluetooth

Wi-Fi connection


So In Short;
I don't think valve would waist their time making a custom wireless system. I would think they want this to be as universal as possible.

u/genr8 · 2 pointsr/homelab

On the off chance you're paying for more than 1 gigabit,
I found this page detailing what a 2 gigabit fiber install looks like from Comcast

https://medium.com/@Gtwy/comcasts-2000mbit-fiber-to-the-home-f106d64d5f51

They ran 2 regular multi-mode fibers (MMF, like in a datacenter), and he's using high-end Juniper and Ubiquity switches with 10GbE SFP+ ports.
https://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-Networks-US-16-XG-16-Port-Aggregation/dp/B01N5QOK0K

(the SFP are the little rectangular ports, these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWD0318/ )

This is all standard gear for pro-networking, but this is the first time I've heard of this for a residential install. So I guess I learned something.
That said, I would let the ISP handle the initial setup, and if its standard pro-gear, you can pick your choice.

u/elShabazz · 2 pointsr/networking

You can use any plain old SPF like this, and connect using a cat6 cable, or get any twinax cable as long as it's passive SFP. Since the switches are right next to each other, you won't need the added distance (and cost) of active cables, and some devices don't like active cables.

u/AllTheNomms · 2 pointsr/homelab

Thanks. I may grab some SFP+ stuff off of Amazon to try it out with your info on crush resistance.

Lot Of 2 Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-Epress x 8 10GBe Ethernet Network Server Adapter Interface Card MNPA19-XTR In Bulk Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016OYD0D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BS4FDb316SB36

Total Cable Solutions OM3 10Gb 50/125 Multimode Duplex Fiber Optic Patch Cable, LC to LC (25 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DP8D7JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8S4FDbJABVY4G

10 Gigabit SFP+ LC Multi-mode Transceiver, 10GBASE-SR Module for Cisco SFP-10G-SR, Ubiquiti UF-MM-10G, Mikrotik S+85DLC03D, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, TP-Link, Broadcom, Linksys (850nm, DDM, 300m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qT4FDbCXDTHTM

u/theupmost · 2 pointsr/homelab

It is a 10 Gigabit Fiber switch. I assume that's what's throwing you off. In each port, instead of a standard copper Ethernet cable, you install Fiber SFP Transceiver modules and connect to other devices using fiber patch cables.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

10G SFP+ DAC Cable - 10GBASE-CU Passive Direct Attach Copper Twinax SFP Cable for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU1M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, Open Switch Devices, 1m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHS3NCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kA5wDb9AKVB5X

u/idontmeanmaybe · 2 pointsr/freenas

Get a couple Mellanox ConnectX-3 cards. You should be able to get them on ebay for $35 or less each. A lot of people use x-2 cards, which you can get for much less, but they are no longer supported (by Mellanox and the mlx4 drivers). The x-3 cards are still fully supported and you can still get firmware updates. I'm using MCX311A-XCAT cards between freenas and linux and I have no problem maxing them out. That model has SFP+ connectors so you can connect them using a DAC cable. I use a cable I got on Amazon.

EDIT: Another thing to be aware of when buying used cards is the bracket height. A lot of them come with SFF (short) brackets. You may need a tall bracket instead.

u/IronGut73 · 2 pointsr/homelab

I setup a peer-to-peer 10Gb network between my 3 servers (R410, R510 & R710) using the Chelsio dual-port cards (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1M9UOA/) and these cables (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA/). Works like a friggin' champ. I already have a GB switch for the LAN and those three boxes are the only ones that would truly benefit from 10GB so I didn't see the need for a 10GB switch at this point. I'm pondering moving my office to the basement in a room next to my server room and if I do, I'll throw a card in my desktop and add it to the peer-to-peer network.

u/infazz · 2 pointsr/learnpython

Absolutely.

This are the Arduino modules I'm using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZIGvCbDVXRRNP
But if you want to write the data to a CSV you will need to use a Raspberry Pi module. You will need dupont wires to go along with this. Look for female to female wires. (But the sensor below comes with wires)

Use the dht22 sensor found here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F472JL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lLGvCbR9G2PT5

Then follow this guide
https://www.losant.com/blog/getting-started-with-the-esp8266-and-dht22-sensor

u/Starcruiser1229 · 2 pointsr/BdsmDIY

Cool project idea, and definitely a lot of room for learning here. I’ll try to give you some ideas on how I’d do it, but keep in mind that I’m not an expert and doing wiring on anything that connects to a person can be dangerous, so this is very much an at your own risk situation.

Instead of starting with the UI, I’d start by figuring out how to connect the device to a computer and the computer to the internet, then you can build a UI on top.

Instead of a RaspberryPi I’d look into an ‘esp8266’ which is basically an arduino with WiFi. You can get one here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK I like these because they’re cheap, easy to connect to the internet (WiFi!) and relatively simple.

To connect that to the device, you’ll probably want to open it up and find where the buttons connect to the circuit board and solder on wires (each button should have 2 connections, and so each will be 2 wires). Run the two wires from the button to a relay - like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDJ8T4G

A relay is basically a switch that can be controlled electrically. In this case, you connect the ground on the relay to ground, the power to one of the pins on the 8266, and the two outputs to the wires from one switch (order doesn’t matter). Then when the 8266 sends power to that pin it will tell the relay to push the button.

You can power the 8266 from any USB, but note that if you’re going to use a USB adapter that plugs into the wall instead of a battery bank you need to use a good quality one (like an apple branded iPad charger) because cheap ones can be unsafe, and you’re going to have a lot of wiring in close proximity to stuff you’re connecting to your body.

I’d use the ‘arest’ library on your 8266 to make things easy - there’s directions here https://openhomeautomation.net/control-relay-anywhere-esp8266 note that you don’t need to pay for their cloud thing, but it might make it easier. If you don’t want to, you can get a ‘dynamic dns’ service and forward a port on the router to the 8266. You’ll probably want some extra code to make the relay turn off shortly after it turns on so it presses the button instead of holding it down.

If I was going to do this, here’s how I’d approach it:

  1. if you’ve never soldered, get a decent quality soldering iron, some thin rosin core solder, and a couple learn to solder kits to practice on. You don’t need to be a master, but you’ll want to be able to make a learn to solder kit work before moving on to stuff you design yourself.

  2. get the micro controller, figure out how to connect it to your computer, get the drivers and arduino IDE installed. Get to the point where it can blink an LED.

  3. install ‘arest’, get it setup. Use the example code in the link, get it connected to your WiFi, get to the point you can turn an LED on and off by pasting a link in your browser using local up address.

  4. get the relays wired up. Connect an LED on one of the relays, turn that on and off using the same code as in step 3

  5. extend the code so it’s aware of all the pins you want to use to control relays, and any time it turns a pin on it turns it back off after a short delay (250 ms?). Verify this works with Leds

  6. open the device you want to control, attach the wires to the button connections. Turn it on and make sure that touching the two wires for a button together ‘presses’ the button.

  7. connect the button wires to the relays, test!

  8. figure out network setup for out of home control (static ips, dynamic dns, port forwards)

  9. make some kind of UI


    Hope this helps get you started. If (when) you get stuck I’d be happy to help if I can!
u/Triskite · 2 pointsr/flashlight

bluetooth for what kind of control?

i'm not sure what the exact uses would be of integrating an esp8266 in a light would be, but battery life notifications on my phone when my edc light is low would be cool, and is the first thing that comes to mind

others could be remotely activating your light if lost in a dark room/place, schedules for default modes (always go to moonlight between 2-5AM, for example)

the aux led could glow green/red when you get certain notifications (or with wifi status), step counter/fitbit features would be easy (for those that carry their light on-person)

i'm getting some wacky ideas gonna stop here

u/firemogle · 2 pointsr/esp8266

I have a NodeMCU that will run a few hours or a few days between resetting and I have been searching for a couple weeks for solutions and based on the reset report the best I can find is power supply issue. My power supply is an older computer ATX 5V line that I am using as a bench, and it has also been powered straight from the USB on my computer. I have put filter caps on the 5-0 line as well as on the 3.3-0 pins with no changes.

The two questions I have are, is there any information on where to troubleshoot next? I am considering the board may be bad and replacing it, but really don't know. Second, should this board reboot after this event? An occasional crash is not wanted but can be tolerated if the board reboots, but right now it hangs and I can't figure out which pins to trip to force a reboot, or even if this is possible.

Exception (9):
epc1=0x40213a4a epc2=0x00000000 epc3=0x00000000 excvaddr=0x02018206 depc=0x00000000

ctx: cont
sp: 3fff0880 end: 3fff0bb0 offset: 01a0

>>>stack>>>
3fff0a20: 3fff0fd0 00000000 00000000 4021a8f3
3fff0a30: 3fff2084 00000000 3fff2084 40213a8e
3fff0a40: 3fff0fd0 00013389 3fff2084 40213def
3fff0a50: 00000001 3fff28a8 00000001 402141a4
3fff0a60: 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
3fff0a70: 3ffeed70 3ffef8dc 3ffefb90 00009a4c
3fff0a80: 3fff1d48 00000000 3fff2724 4021420c
3fff0a90: 40201842 00001388 00001388 402050d8
3fff0aa0: 3fff1d48 00000000 3fff2724 4020539e
3fff0ab0: f101a8c0 40204cc4 3fff0b10 4020b2b1
3fff0ac0: 3fff1dec 00000012 3ffefac4 3fff0b10
3fff0ad0: 3ffe9230 3fff1c74 3fff1d48 40204299
3fff0ae0: 3ffe9230 f101a8c0 3fff0b10 40100690
3fff0af0: 3ffe8ff4 3ffefac4 00000014 3ffef85c
3fff0b00: 00000012 3ffef850 3ffef850 40207dc7
3fff0b10: 3fff2294 0000001f 00000012 40207e1e
3fff0b20: 3fff1c74 40204160 3ffef3b8 3ffefb84
3fff0b30: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffef3b8 3ffefb84
3fff0b40: 3fffdad0 00000000 00000001 40207e96
3fff0b50: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffefb7d 402082d8
3fff0b60: 3ffef60c 3ffef608 3ffefb7d 402036fc
3fff0b70: 3ffef5fc feefeffe feefeffe feefeffe
3fff0b80: 00000000 00000000 00000001 3ffefb84
3fff0b90: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffefb7d 4020bbb0
3fff0ba0: feefeffe feefeffe 3ffefb90 40100710
<<<stack<<<

ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:2, boot mode:(1,6)


ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:4, boot mode:(1,6)

wdt reset

Thanks for any help

u/spaok · 2 pointsr/cigars

you can use an ESP8266 to provide wifi access to the sensor. That's my plan, I would use a raspberrypi to connect to the ESP.

u/flametex · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Nice! Now do it very low power using an arudino! An ESP8266 can connect to a lot of IOT services and can practically run on a battery for months if you code it right. https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500735601&sr=1-3&keywords=esp8266

u/CommanderCuntPunt · 2 pointsr/ProgrammerHumor

The hardware limitations are difficult, but I'm really enjoying the challenge. I've been running mongoose-os on an esp8266 which is great for programming in c or c++. You could pick up a node mcu which is a fantastic low cost development board for the esp8266 and be building your own firmware within a couple days.

u/LORD_OF_THE_FUPA · 2 pointsr/futurama

There are three types of places that you'll commonly work for.

Microsoft shops - IIS, .NET, SQL, Microsoft MVC, ASPX, Ajax

Java shops - Whatever the latest and greatest frameworks and servers are, every place is different. Basically a nightmare to setup if you aren't familiar with it.

Other - Python, Ruby on Rails, Perl, PHP

I've worked for all 3 and would recommend a Microsoft shop. If you are trying to stand up something to show off your skills or practice, I'd say do a full end-to-end implementation of this http://mean.io/ to show off your skills to potential interviewers. It uses, for the most part, the latest and greatest technologies all the way from the DB to the frontend.

The most important part of being a Web dev is having a very good understanding of how it all works from the browser down to the back end. JavaScript runs in browsers and manipulates the html based DOM of the page served by the hosting software. The HTML served is very rarely static, and data is fed and received through the HTTP protocol. Understanding REST-fulness and the stateless nature of the web is key to good development.

If that's not your thing though all you need is a page that hosts a portfolio of your other projects. You could be doing stuff with NodeMCU (Lua, Node.js), Arduinos (C / Assembly), Raspberry Pis (PHP, Python, C) and as long as you post good logs of your projects with source code, interviewers will eat it up seriously. Most of the candidates I interview are not passionate like that, and coming at us with a diverse range of skills and a proven track record of self-motivated projects would get you immediately hired.

You can buy NodeMCUs for like $9 and immediately start coding in Lua or C for a WiFi-enabled microcontroller. The possibilities with this thing are endless and it's the state of the art platform for home based tinkering projects right now.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES

http://www.nodemcu.com/index_en.html

u/d6stringer · 2 pointsr/esp8266

what about using a NodeMCU to control a dual relay board?

u/its_bananas · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

The esp8266 is perfect for remote sensors. You're going to want the nodeMCU dev board like this one on Amazon.

You can also get them much cheaper ($4 ) on AliExpress if you're willing to wait 3-4 weeks for them to ship from China.

There are two different firmwares that you can flash them with. NodeMCU is allows you to program it using Lua but MicroPython is also available and uses a subset of Python.

u/CaDaMac · 2 pointsr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

ESP8266 sounds like the best fit. Raspberry Pi needs an extra board to get Analog Input. Arduino needs an extra board for wifi (or an expensive board with wifi built in).
And ESP8266 is easy to use if you have Arduino experience, since the ESP8266 controller uses the Arduino Software. This is a good board to start with.

u/iloveflayerhusks · 2 pointsr/arduino

This is way way cheaper than that arduino shield.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

You can connect up to 5 of them within their own network, with one as a server, or connect them to a router wifi connection. You just add it as a board in Arduino.

u/NotAnNSASpySatellite · 2 pointsr/homelab

Pick up a SFP+ 10Gb Base T module? Such as this off amazon , I am sure you can find it much cheaper.

u/johnkiddjr · 2 pointsr/homelab

10GTek is who I normally get my cheap modules from, all work with my MikroTik switches no problem:

10G: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KFBFL16

1G: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Compatible-SFP-GE-T-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B01L6PQ6I2

u/KZ72 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I've used a bunch of different DACs including this one.

What I'd say is that compatibility has improved, and most DACs at 1m are working. it's when you get above 1m where you get into trouble.

I also have a bunch of ConnectX-2 Mellanox and also Chelsio NICs working fine with cheap Finsivar transceivers i got for like $7 each off ebay.

Also got a 1Gbit transceiver working on it fine as a uplink to my gigabit switch. The trick with getting 1Gbit transceivers to work is to manually set the link to 1Gbit.

I got the switch in beta and it's working great. Only thing buggy is that only two of the 4 BASE-T copper ports work well for me, but that's fine for me, I got it for the SFP+ ports anyways. Super cheap Connect-X2 NICs available.

u/IrisaNolan88 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Something like these?

https://i.imgur.com/LZCmXcS.png

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Ubiquiti-UF-RJ45-1G-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sfp+ubiquiti&qid=1556912526&s=electronics&sr=1-3

if i use that on the XG could i just plug the other end of the RJ45 into a RJ45 port on the US-8-150w instead of paying another $21 for a 2nd transceiver?

u/ManyInterests · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Personally, I would just get an RJ45 module, like this one.

u/lehighkid · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Yes, I have a similar setup and use these specifically for my UniFi switches

U Fiber Multi-Mode SFP 1G

and StarTech.com 1m Fiber Optic Cable - Multimode Duplex 62.5/125 - LSZH

It’s a little expensive to connect but does open up additional ports and can be managed similarly.

u/CygnusTM · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I have a similar setup with an ER-X SFP and an ES 24 Lite, except I'm using a DAC cable like this. On the ER-X main screen, you should have a switch0. Go into the config for that and make sure eth5 is checked. For speed, I have the port on the ER-X set to "Auto negotiation" and the port on the ES set to "Auto-detect", and they negotiate to 1Gb.

u/tbell83 · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I have a UDM-pro that will be connected to a US-16-150W via this DAC:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHF7JSG/

BUT per ubiquiti neither auto-negotiation works nor does it respect manually setting the link speed on the UDM end:

https://community.ui.com/questions/DAC-not-recognized-on-UDM-Pro/7e9d495e-f7a5-4f92-941d-6c22763a03b7#answer/ba29de99-4b4e-4c70-91e1-b24ad9dabc3c

>Link speed selection doesn't work on UDM Pro yet and auto mode sets 10G for DAC. That's why it doesn't work with the switch which has 1G enforced

u/mxitup2 · 2 pointsr/homelab

It could just be me but I hate Netgear, anytime I see their stuff I just want to throw it out a window and run it over.

​

You can go with this MikroTik switch for waaaaayyyy less money, get the same number of ports and then just pick up a few 10Gb copper SFPs for pretty cheap and use those. For 20x of those copper sfps and that switch it'll come to about $1,500 USD. You also have the added "future-proofing" bonus of having an SFP-based switch so if you ever want to do 10Gb fiber later down the road and 2x 40Gb QSFP+ ports for fast uplink.

u/Badabinski · 2 pointsr/networking

Behold, the horror!

There are 10Gbase-T SFP+ modules, but they're not fully up to the spec and are generally considered to be evil snakes.

u/JacqylFrost · 2 pointsr/homelab

SFP+ card, I suggest a Mellanox ConnectX-2 or 3, they're cheap and abundant on eBay, and work great with Windows (Not FreeBSD, as I discovered, but I imagine Linux has decent support) and a 10GbE module, I personally have two of these linking rooms together: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQBFHNL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It honestly might be slightly cheaper to get a pair of ConnectX-2 or 3 cards and get a DAC (Direct Attach Copper) cable as tracernz said below. DAC cables max out around 5 meters or so, and get a lot more expensive as they get longer. But unless they're at opposite ends of a large rack, that shouldn't be an issue.

u/Digital-Nomad · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You don't need converters with SFP modules. Converters with built in optics like this one will work in this case. Or you can get one with an SFP incuded.

The ones with built in optic usually use SC connectors, that are a bit bigger than LC. So if you need to thread a patch cable through small opening, through a wall for example, LC connectors might be a better option.


You also need to keep in mind if you are using single mode or multi mode optics, as they will need different types of cable. Multi Mode is typically cheaper (although the difference is not that big for 1Gbit optics) but has a shorter range. the range for MM is ~500 meters, so it is good enough in this case.

u/_elementist2 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If they provide you an SFP/SFP+ plug they've probably whitelisted it on their end.

You can get this: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=sfp+to+rj45&qid=1558976154&s=electronics&sr=1-8

and convert that to a 1gb copper cable if you already have your own router. If not, getting one with an SFP port would be your best bet.

u/l0ckd0wn · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I disagree on the complexity issue, because he could use something as simple as a fiber-to-copper media converter on both sides to switches on both sides; no fancy switches or NICs.

​

I have no idea how reliable the quality is for this particular product, but it come with it's own SFP and is only $40:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KKRXAXD5CG72T9PEEH0D

u/Centrodin · 1 pointr/homelab

StarTech.com PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Fiber Network Card w/Open SFP - PCIe GbE SFP Network Card Adapter NIC - Fiber Optic SFP Adapter (PEX1000SFP2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPRRJFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iGT3DbXJAA01G


And something like this, depending on what type of fiber termination you use.

TRENDnet Gigabit SFP LC Module, TEG-MGBSX, Multi-Mode, Mini-GBIC, Up to 550 M (1800 ft), Compatible w/Standard SFP Slots, Hot Pluggable, Compliant w/IEEE 802.3z Gigabit Ethernet, Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JR5SM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9GT3Db4459ENE

u/statikuz · 1 pointr/sysadmin

> Bonus Question: what is the point of a combo sfp slot?

That means that SFP port is paired with one of the ethernet ports. If you put a SFP in that slot it will disable one of the ethernet ports.

If you actually mean "what's the point of an SFP slot" - you can put a SFP, something like this in that slot to convert to fiber. Useful for making a long run to another building or something like that.

u/hombre_sabio · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Sure. Here are links to an example of all the components you need on Amazon.

Run fiber optic cable through some Innnerduct between houses. Install a multi-mode SC connector on the fiber ends and connect to a fiber to Ethernet media converters. Connect Ethernet patch cables between the media converter an the ISP router on on end and an Ethernet switch on the other end.


router--->ethernet--->media converter--->fiber run--->media converter--->ethernet--->switch

u/ProfessionalHobbyist · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

My guess is that you'll need to do some sort of modulation, but I'm not an expert. I wonder if you could apply software defined radio tools to this problem. I found a few laser-related SDR posts, which were also research related.

https://www.rtl-sdr.com/tag/laser/

I also wonder if you could hack up existing copper<->fiber Ethernet media converter hardware to accomplish this task. Not sure if that would be useful to you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVRLZI

Just remember not to look at the fiber/laser with your last remaining good eye!

u/mrsolo · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If degradation worries you that much, with extra spending you can do fiber optic. You need two of those plus the cable.

However, they are a bit fragile than ethernet cable. I am not sure fiber can take frat house abuses..

u/ntrlsur · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That's exactly right. An adapter like this will work... https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Multi-Mode-MC200CM/dp/B003AVRLZI/ref=pd_sbs_469_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3QGNXVWWAB3M05R1MEWW

There are cheaper ones and more expensive ones. Just make sure you match up fiber to adapter. Either single or multimode and make sure the fiber and adapter are the same sc or lc.

u/snowblindswans · 1 pointr/audioengineering

What about something that can take that optical cable in and convert it to gigabit ethernet - and using an ethernet to thunderbolt adapter - i do already own the ethernet adapter.

Edit: I might use the mono headphone jack suggestion - that went over my head. i didn't realize i could send audio in with the TRRS connector - most stuff I was seeing was that the audio in was gone on the new Retina's.

u/TehEpicSaudiGuy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yeah, I don't need to change the box. I do need to change the router though. As far as I've been able to tell, it uses an SC connector to connect to the white box. Anything I've been able to find uses 2 connectors vs 1.

Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Multi-Mode-MC200CM/dp/B003AVRLZI

u/vono360 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

So continuing on with our conversation...


TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, Up to 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000Mbps SFP Slot Supporting MiniGBIC Modules (MC220L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PP7pDbM5HVMHK


That was the device they placed between the fiber line coming in and the "modem". If I have sfp available on my er-4 why do need this "modem"?

Thanks for the help!

u/rudekoffenris · 1 pointr/bell

It will work, but you will be using double nat, which is never ideal.

Without knowing what your bandwidth is, and not having tested this for speed, consider using a media converter something like this https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=media+converter&qid=1556988645&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (I am NOT endorsing this particular product just putting it out there as an example) and then using the RBK50 and losing the HH3000 all together.

For me, in Ontario, I need to set up a VLAN on the WAN side (35). If you use Bell provided TV or Voice phone from the HH3000 then it becomes very non trivial.

There is some interesting information over at DSL Reports http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31118482-Yes-you-CAN-bypass-the-HomeHub-3000 it's a long ass thread but there is lots of good information. I think that Atlantic Canada does not use the same authentication, but they will know more over there.

If you want to do that you have to take the SFP out of the HH3000 which seems scary at first but if you have good fingernails or a jewelers screwdriver there's a little tab that you have to shift a bit to get the SFP transceiver out of the connector.

There has been limited success with this on speeds > 1Gb, so once again it vary's depending on your speed and expectations.

u/ryao · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

It would be major news if your ISP gave you what you describe. Which ISP is this? What is their router's manufacturer name and model number? What is the SFP module's manufacturer name and model number? Are you sure it is GPON and not EPON? If this is really GPON, how did you get your ISP to give you a router with a SFP module?

If you really have what you claim to have, then all you should need is a gigabit SFP to RJ-45 media converter, plus information on whether the ISP router uses DHCP or PPPoE. If it uses PPPoE, you would need the PPPoE credentials so that you can configure your router with them. As for the media converter, something like this could work:

https://www.amazon.com/MC220L-Converter-1000Mbps-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0

u/Pommedks · 1 pointr/PFSENSE

You need a media converter like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=TP-Link+MC220L&qid=1556187347&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

My setup is: Bell fiber -> Media Converter -> PFsense . By removing the HH3K, I did loose on download speed a bit (about 80 Mbps of my gigagit) but retained my upload speed at 750 MBps.

​

Hope this will help.

u/hiroo916 · 1 pointr/applehelp

You get points for MacGyver-ing together working solutions, but are you here are some better and "more proper" ways of doing it:

  1. Best case, if you can run in a single Ethernet cable from your bedroom out the living room, then get another wireless router and place that into the living room. Connect the two routers together lan (not wan) port to lan port. On the second router in the living room, going to the menus and turn off DHCP so that IP addresses will only be issued by the router in the bedroom. Boom you're done and everything will run fast and smooth.

  2. if you can't run the ethernet cable, you can also replace the ethernet cable with power line networking boxes to use your electrical wiring to create virtual ethernet cable to connect the two routers as described in number one. This will cost a bit more then the cable and its performance depends on the type of wiring and stuff in your house, but you can work really well.

  3. you can also get power line networking devices that have wireless or additional wired ethernet ports on the receiver box. For example, this one has a receiver box with four ethernet outputs that could accommodate your equipment in the living room without an additional router needed.

  4. if you still want to go the wireless route, you can get a wireless bridge unit that will connect to the wireless signal coming from your main router and then distribute that to the additional wired devices in your living room.
u/mymuse100 · 1 pointr/PS4

What you need to do is a bridge connection.

  • Connect your PS4 to the laptop via ethernet, connect the laptop to the internet via wifi.
  • Open Network and Sharing Center
  • Click Change Adapter Settings on the left
  • Select the WIFI adapter and LAN adapter together
  • Right click on either and select "Bridge Connection.

    If im correct your PS4 should be able to see the internet and get the IP address.

    https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/2noqi8/help_using_laptop_as_ethernet_hub/

    I have Windows 8.1, not 7. But I did all that, and they seem to have bridged successfully, but it's still saying it's not obtaining an IP address. :/ Any idea if I need to do something else? I turned off ICS because it said I had to do the bridging.

    _______________________________________________________________________________________________________

    ​

    it seems windows 8/10 has a problem with doing this thou...

    Windows 10 has a (mobile hotspot button) click that it allows you to create a "wifi bridge" with the network you have.

    Example I steal wifi from the hotel comcast behind me, connected via wifi it sucks.. like 500kbps if im lucky. and my internal wifi on my laptop tops at like 10mpbs with an extrenal card it goes up to 25mpbs

    Using windows 10 "wifi hotspot" and an alfa/ethernal wifi adapter for even better range. I then get really nice speeds on my laptop... I then create a wifi hotspot with my own name and password and bam. Decent ps4 wifi speeds :)

    You can also use something like a wes610n or a buffalo airstation to create a wired bridge. and have it connect to 4 Ethernet devices.

    https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WES610N-4-Port-Dual-Band-Entertainment/dp/B0056VP0KS
u/Simcom · 1 pointr/Comcast

>So I've been trying to ask whether this means that they won't put the cable modem in one room, and the HD DVR in a different room. If this is the case, then the installation offer won't solve my needs. I have a hardwired network printer that requires that it be physically plugged in to the Ethernet hub, and this is in a different room than the TV.

You just need to buy a wireless bridge, and place it near whatever devices need to be physically plugged in. The bridge will communicate with your modem/router (wirelessly) and allow whatever is connected to it to communicate with the interent.

This is an example of a bridge.

u/RTKUAV · 1 pointr/Multicopter

> You can use that 5V pad - that's what it's there for. Although, because you are using opto ESCs, none of your ESC 5V pads will be in use anyways.

I am not soldering direct to the board, just in case I want to put the miniAPM back in again, so they are kind of in use with the 3 wire ESC plugs.

> When you mention the BAT port - which board are you referring to? NAZE or the AIO?

Naze

> Satellite - yes power to the 3V pad, ground to whatever ground is convincing, and signal to one of your UART Rx pads. This is part of why I suggested a more modern board - most have dedicated Spektrum plugs :).

So I think I got this, sat ground to the 1st pad from the top with no marking, sat +3v to that 3v pad, sat signal to 3rd from the top marked 1.

I have an Arduino blue tooth adapter also in my parts collection, can I use this at the same time as also having an minimOSD connected (also in my parts collection)?

LEDs, I see the naze32 can control upto 32 LEDs, I want to put 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom of each arm, so 36 total. However I want each arm, top and bottom, to just be the same, so lets say LED 1 top, mirrors 1 bottom, and so on. Would it work if I wired them like this http://i.imgur.com/q5KUMv5.png, so that say the top would just stop, but the bottom would continue on to the next arm? If this would work, I would have effectively 18 LEDs, leaving me room for 14 more addressable for things like brake likes, and forward lights.

Thanks for all the help so far!

u/To_the_moon__ · 1 pointr/arduino

Okay so I have

Bluetooth USB

Bluetooth arduino module

In my amazon cart. This would be all I need to make a serial connection between my laptop and arduino right?

u/Tibyon · 1 pointr/tasker

What kind of robot? You can absolutely make what you want work by simple bluetooth serial connection, but you'll have to have your Arduino setup to accept serial input and interpret that input to the desired effect. I'm not saying AutoArduino won't do what you want; I just get the feeling it might not be the best way. Do you have an bluetooth shield already or what is your setup?

Like a said, I have setup arduino programs to use this adapter to recieve and interpret serial commands from Tasker. (I believe you will still need a interstitial app but I know there's one that works seamlessly with tasker). So for instance, if you have a robot with three axis, you could send the serial message "xAxis,yAxis,zAxis" and have the arduino interpret that serial command to run your motors too those axis. It's really quite simple once you get your head around it. Feel free to PM me if you want some personalized help. I'd really love if you sent me your existing sketch for you robot and I can tell you how I would make it flow.

u/PintoTheBurninator · 1 pointr/arduino

These guys are very easy to use and only require 4 connections - 5v, GND, tx, rcv.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093XAV4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a HC-06 which means you don't have to jump through hoops to run AT commands - just connect it to a USB-serial converter and open up a terminal (like Tera Term) then run the AT commands to set the BAUD rate.


If you can find the HC-05 they are more flexible and configurable but you have to hook them up to an arduino and connect the KEY/WAKE/EN pin to 3.3v and load the serialloop sketch to run AT commands to set the BAUD rate.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JP05S6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There are tutorials about how to use the HC-05 to make your own Bluetooth shield. You can't really use the HC-06 to make a true Bloetooth shield as there is no way to have it auto-reset the arduino when you upload a sketch but you can alway push the reset button to upload. In your case, you probably don't want the board to reset every time you connect anyway so just use the HC-06.

u/duke8804 · 1 pointr/homelab

So I have tried these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016YK9CPI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWD0318/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the same issue with both. It basically turns the port off on the NIC.

I have cisco 1gb sfp modules that work perfect.

I just dont understand why the modules i have tried fail.

u/sameparallel · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I've used
10Gtek Cisco Compatible GLC-T/ SFP-GE-T Gigabit RJ45 Copper SFP Transceiver Module, 1000Base-T https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U77IJ2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JAVDyb0G4F8VX

u/MoralDoes · 1 pointr/Cisco

Sorry let me explain exactly what i've done so far i set up the wlc through cli then configured ot throught the setup wizard and the ip does ping, now I'm trying to take the cisco wlc 4404 connect the service port to a switch so it has connectivity and then connect a laptop to a guest lan i setup on one of the sfp ports that has an sfp to ethernt connection

Something like this, but all i get is connected no internet connection avaliable

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Compatible-SFP-GE-T-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B00U77IJ2M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=sfp+to+ethernet&qid=1563137810&s=gateway&sr=8-3


I ran ip config before and after the setup.

Before there was no info present after

Details of the computer were present like mac address but no ip and it still said

connected no internet connection avaliable

u/coolcool23 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Looking pretty darn good if it has basic diagnostics like the ones I don't see with these (Just "?" for temperature, etc...) when I hover over: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Compatible-SFP-GE-T-Transceiver-1000Base-T/dp/B00U77IJ2M

u/clifford641 · 1 pointr/homelab
u/L4rgo117 · 1 pointr/DataHosting
u/pablohoney102 · 1 pointr/meraki
u/ssps · 1 pointr/synology

> Edit: Looks like LAN1 is doing all the lifting and LAN2 is pretty much idling even though they're both connected.

This is normal. To saturate both lan adapters at the same time you would either need an MPIO iSCSI setup or have multiple clients transferring data concurrently (which will likely be bottlenecked by the disk performance on this unit, so MPIO or MCS iSCSI with dual LAN on client side is the only viable usecase and will only help sequential io).

That said if you do want faster than gigabit speed - don’t mess with iSCSI and multipass — instead upgrade to 10G networking when you are ready. It’s got pretty cheap these days — you can get connectivity between nas and pc for under $250 - including lan adapters, SFP+ switch (mikrotik has 5-port one for $150), multimode fiber cable and SFP+ to optics transiecers. Or just go with Direct-attached like this and save even more.

But that’s a big detour into offtopic..

u/GoldenDreamcast · 1 pointr/linuxquestions
u/jasonbrown23 · 1 pointr/meraki

10 Gigabit SFP+ LC Multi-Mode Transceiver, 10GBASE-SR Module for Cisco SFP-10G-SR, Meraki MA-SFP-10GB-SR, Ubiquiti UF-MM-10G, Mikrotik, D-Link, Supermicro, (850nm, DDM, 300m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_fDi3Db0N3SF3M

u/Keeloi79 · 1 pointr/homelab

What is even better is buying brand new Mikrotik/LB4M/LB6M compatible optics with next day shipping from amazon for less than $20 each. Used these in my LB4m and moved them right over to my crs226-24g-2s+rm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U8Q7946/

u/GeneralDumpling · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Yes that’d work fine. I believe there is an issue now with the UDM Pro not being able to autonegotiate a 1Gb connection so at the moment you’ll need to specifically change that port to 1GB but it should be something a future firmware will fix.

I am using this SFP DAC cable from my NAS to the USW24 Pro and can confirm it works great as well, and is available in many different lengths:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHS3NCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MfEXDbT7ZSHZE

u/seizedengine · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I have one of these and it works fine. Just select the Ubiquiti option and then whatever length. I am using it between an 8 port POE and my 16-XG. You have to select 1Gb on each end, same as with optical SFPs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

u/_alankrut · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Not OP but here's what I bought to get this project going.

  • NodeMCU Board (ESP8266)
  • Load Cells + HX711

    I had other electronics project equipment laying around like solder iron, cables, prototype boards, etc. I 3dprinted a holder for the load cells (they need distance between them and the surface they are resting on so that they can flex. STL can be found here.

    I'll update in a bit with pictures
u/drfalken · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Happy to help. HiLetgo PN532 NFC NXP RFID Module... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1J17LC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is the NFC reader. I use these ESP8266: HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is the ESPHome config guide. https://esphome.io/components/binary_sensor/pn532.html


It’s straight forward and ESPHome does a fantastic job at abstracting away all the hard parts.


A card read can show up in HomeAsssitant as a binary sensor on. From there it is a script that unlocks my door lock. If your lock integrates with homeassistant you should be able to. Keep in mind that NFC security implemented this way is as secure as your lock code. Except it’s usually a more permanent number combination. And you have written your door combination down on a piece of paper that you fidget about with every time you pull out your wallet. The closer people are, the better they can read your door combo. Except with NFC, you would never know. Always plan in a second factor for better security. Ours will not unlock the locks unless it also detects our Bluetooth is home. That’s another ESPHome boilerplate config.

u/slackinfux · 1 pointr/arduino

I'd probably use a pair of small ESP8266 boards on WiFi for this purpose, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=esp8266&qid=1567788335&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Small enough that you can just double stick tape the module inside the case, rather than putting in an SSD caddy. This gives you better options when placing it near the motherboard connections you'll connect it to.

You could set up the one inside the PC in AP mode, then have the other one connect to it as a client so that they have their own WiFi network.

This could also give you the ability to perform the same functions through a web page on your phone on the same hardware with not much more effort.

I really doubt that latency would be much of a factor in this application. No slower than controlling a typical Smart LED light bulb over WiFi, for instance, since they're probably using an ESP8266 to do it, anyway!

u/skot123 · 1 pointr/arduino

If you are not looking to use an arduino shield and don't need a ton of io pins, you can use a nodemcu it is technically an esp8266 that can be programmed via the arduino use.

I've bought several of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OhYTBbV2X57A5

They run my drawing machine, my action camera controller, my plant moisture sensor, my 3d printer accessory, and half a dozen other goofing off projects.

Even if you don't want to use Wi-Fi...out is hard to beat the price.

There are a couple extra steps to use the first one... But it is well documented on the internet.

In fairness there are some cons too:
Limited pins and some pins are not accessible
They take up a lot of room on a breadboard
They are 3.3v (not really a conversation, unless you are trying to work with something that is 5v)

If you know you want to be battery operated, there are some with built in lipo circuits (I have one with a tiny LCD and a lipo charger that cost about $12)

u/EXOQ · 1 pointr/arduino

Arduino with an ESP chip is probably the best way to go. I found this tutorial that grabs data from a website and you can use this chip.

--

You can also program these using Python with MicroPython. There's this example of someone using this to put Data to a server. You can start with that and modify the code, in his other examples he also has how to use an LED and how to read data from a webpage. It's also worth checking out his other examples and other code online! Just a quick note, you configure the Wifi settings in boot.py then have your main script in main.py.

u/mythrilgames · 1 pointr/arduino

They are: HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA CP2102 ESP-12E

This is the amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/zwbenedict · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I don't have any links. I combined multiple sketches to get it to do what I needed. I used a NodeMCU chip (~$8 on amazon) and a cheap 5 pack of PIR sensors

From there I looked up how to connect an esp8266 to wifi, how to publish to mqtt, and how to determine if a pir sensor senses motion.

Combined all that into a working sketch. If I could pull this together, you can too!

u/Zeppelin2k · 1 pointr/arduino

Good to know, thank you. The board will almost solely be controlling lights, maybe looking for a few button presses, so I can probably hit 30 Hz update rate.

I think I'm going to go with one of these ESP8266 NodeMCU boards (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1) as the specs look great and it's got built in wifi too. I'm just wondering why it's so much cheaper than something like the UNO or MEGA. I haven't kept up with recent developments much, are these boards getting outdated and replaced these days? Are there some disadvantages to the ESP8266 I should know of? I'm potentially going to turn this project into a product I can sell so I want something robust.

u/Beanholio · 1 pointr/homeassistant

I don't know what type of communication channel you're using (Z-Wave, Zigbee, RF, etc.) but I use a simple magnetic reed sensor wired to a NodeMCU board. Wifi boards suck down electricity though so my setup has to be mains powered (batteries only last a week or two).

If you want battery powered, look into Z-Wave/Zigbee door sensors; they're more expensive but look nice and can run on battery.

u/supriseme · 1 pointr/homeassistant

Don't know if this counts as "good" but I put together a nodemcu and an RF receiver that transmits the codes over MQTT to my raspberry pi. NodeMCU ~$9 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3t7.zbNNKST99 and RF receiver ~$7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M2CUALS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bx7.zbPBPEM90

Just noticed you said 345mhz... these receivers are made for 433mhz but you might be able to find a similar one for 345mhz?

Let me know if you want any more details.

u/agDane · 1 pointr/escaperooms

I build my own using ESP8266 controllers - they're super cheap ($5), very reliable, built in WiFi, etc. For prototyping or learning get a dev board which has a USB port and pins for a protoboard like this one The company is coming out with a new one called ESP32 ( /r/esp32 ) soon that I will use for most everything. I keep spares so I can just pop in a new one if one fails - so far no failures. We also use Arduino Uno, Arduino Mega and Raspberry Pi.

u/plexxer · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Along with the lights and the ESP8266, you would also need some way to power it and the ESP8266. The LED string I chose is 12v, and the ESP8266 is powered by 5V, so you will need a voltage regulator as well. Also, if you choose the lights I linked they probably wouldn't arrive by the time you need them (they are from a Chinese distributor). What is important is that they are individually addressable WS8211 based. I chose those because they look like a classic christmas light string.

This is as far as I've gotten with the project so far. You also need to set up an environment on your computer to compile the custom firmware that will be flashed to the ESP8266.

I'm afraid that really is no packaged solution for this, so if you don't have a lot of experience with electronics or programming, you may find it an uphill battle.

Good luck!

u/spookthesunset · 1 pointr/arduino

Don't even bother. I know this is an "arduino" sub but the [ESP8266] (https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES) (which has a smaller form factor dev board as well) and the ESP32 are cheaper, have more capability, more memory, more GPIO pins, more of everything... Best of all they use the same dev tools, language and libraries that arduino uses. Virtually every single device you can run on an arduino will also run against one of these other microcontrollers.

The ESP32 is the newest microcontroller from the makers of the ESP8266. Way more memory & flash memory, faster dua core CPU, lower power, way more GPIO pins, much better PWM support than the ESP8266, etc. However, because it is newer the library & module support is still not quite as mature as it is for the ESP8266 (at least a year ago when I last used it).

Seriously, if I was in your shoes, I wouldn't even bother with the ardunio if I was going to include wifi. ESP8266 and ESP32 both have them built in.

Again, I know this is an arduino sub but I'm pretty sure it is more of an "cool shit using microcontrollers" sub than strictly an "arduino hardware only" sub. And ESP8266's / ESP32's outclass arduinos in almost every regard.

PS: Most of those wifi shields for arduino actually have an ESP8266 on them in order to get wifi :-)

PPS: The ESP stuff is strictly 3.3v and all the GPIO pins are 3.3v. Arduino is all 5v. If your components all expect 5v and won't work with 3.3v, you'll need to run them all through a logic level converter to step the 3.3v up to 5v and back...

u/Higgenbottoms · 1 pointr/arduino

The HiLetgo on Amazon seems to be well reviewed and is pretty cheap. How easy would something like this be to use? https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES

Also, to turn on the computer, I have to close a circuit. I could send a signal through one pin, but I'm scared that sending the wrong current could fry my motherboard, so I want to just physically close the circuit. Is there a module that when a pulse is sent to it it will connect two other lines? Like a digital switch? Thanks so much for all your help!

EDIT: just found out the second thing I'm looking for is called a relay :)

u/tby16tby · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Yeah. You'll probably have to hack the controllers then. You could also check out the ESP8266, they're pretty sleek, and cheap: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487616893&sr=8-3&keywords=esp8266

u/brontide · 1 pointr/arduino

When it comes to frustration, stay away from the cheapest parts unless you can confirm the USB stuff works as expected on your platform. I have wasted too many hours trying to get cheap crap to program from the IDE. Been working with nodemcu lately for
an IoT project and it works well. For less than $10 it's a great way to branch into that stuff while waiting for Adafruit to get the esp32 board back in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES

Another point that I don't see mentioned here is if you want to get into it get a decent soldering iron. Once again the cost of a decent tool is worth it compared to the sanity lost fighting with an iron that can't deliver the right temp consistently.

u/spicymustache · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I'm going to do the same. Are you going to use a specific source code or are you going to write it yourself?

Edit:
Don't really want wait three weeks, so I'm ordering these.
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FDPO9B8/

Haven't really read yet what kind of output the sensors have yet, but I assume it's just the sensitivity, and a boolean for movement. I'll just write a little script that does a HTTP call to my node on movement.

u/Echochrome3 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Interesting. That’s a good start and the code isn’t too complicated.

I have this ESP8266 board from an old project. Is there an easy way I can have notifications sent to my IOS device when something’s being watered? I want it to be a little smarter than just an Arduino watering based on a sensor input.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n36MBb02PSPPW

u/wrzoki · 1 pointr/programming

This is the hardware I used.. The Arduino IDE is here

A nice guide on how to program the ESP8266 chip with the IDE.

u/bennettj1087 · 1 pointr/esp8266

Question about the NodeMCU board... I bought this recently and am having an annoying hard time figuring out what the integer values for the pins should be. These boards have pins labeled D0-D8 but using those as pin values in my code doesn't seem to do anything (I have a simple LED connected and am merely trying to make it blink to start with).

Is this board similar to what you used and did you have any issues figuring out pin mappings? Maybe I'm doing something else wrong...

u/jamvanderloeff · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Maybe an ESP32? Has 16 channel 12 bit PWM hardware, integrated bluetooth and WiFi, programmable with the Arduino framework and software. Can get modules of them for around $5-10 https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_10_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526691682&sr=8-10-spons&keywords=wemos+esp32&psc=1

May also want to look into addressable LEDs like WS2812, has RGB or RGBW LEDs and a PWM controller in a single package with a daisy chained serial interface, can have tens or hundereds of LEDs individually controlled with a single pin from the micro. Also available as standalone controller chips to use with separate LEDs, WS2811.

u/jelloeater85 · 1 pointr/sysadmin

If you are looking for some more micro controller HW the Node MCU is all the rage for little GPIO projects w/ Python.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES

u/tknp · 1 pointr/esp8266

I've used aliexpress or Amazon depending on how quickly I wanted the things.

For a NodeMCU I'd suggest going with the version 2 instead of the version 3 since they fit better on a 400 point breadboard. I generally just search for 'NodeMCU CP2102' which should get you to the version 2.


u/seanp2500 · 1 pointr/ps4homebrew

i cover this in my jailbreak the ps4 for dummies post above yours here is the usb hd and usb wifi development board i am using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/DeezNutsnBolts · 1 pointr/esp8266

It's by hiletgo

u/dadykhoff · 1 pointr/homeautomation
u/devianteng · 1 pointr/esp8266

Bought from Amazon, like $8.79, Prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010O1G1ES

Just got it today, and never had it loaded with anything at this point.

I also just ordered 2 more from this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IK9GEQG

u/ovirt001 · 1 pointr/homelab

They aren't cheap but yes, you absolutely can and that's the point of SFP+.
https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-10G-T-S-Compatible-10GBase-T-Transceiver/dp/B01KFBFL16

u/ngbarnes3 · 1 pointr/homelab

You could go with a 10gtek adapter. Here is one that should work (Cisco generally works with everything but they have a intel version as well)
10Gtek 10Gbase-T Sfp+ to copper

u/JrClocker · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I use the SFP and SFP+ ports on my UniF switches as regular switch ports...works fine no issues.

Here is the SFP to copper adapter I use: Amazon Link

Here is the SFP+ to copper adapter I use: Amazon Link

Just plug and play.

u/Route66_LANparty · 1 pointr/homelab

2m cables. Some shorter old Dell SFP+ cables I had lying around work too.

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-Ubiquiti-Direct-Passive-1-Meter/dp/B01LSGGUOY/

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this one.

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/berserkerX86 · 1 pointr/homelab

Does anyone here know if any of the 10Gtek DACs work? I'm getting mine on Tuesday any I've only got 10GBASE-T stuff to test out :(

u/imjustmatthew · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

You can also get a SFP Copper adapter that gives you a "normal" RJ45 jack, obviously much more expensive, but the patch cable is then a normal $1 cable: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Cisco-SFP-GE-T-Compatible-1000Base-T/dp/B007UR0CZE

Personally, I would just buy some 10G DACs like this one: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-H10GB-CU1M-10GBASE-CU-Passive-1-Meter/dp/B01LSGGUOY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=V68X5W7E0794MPDYGRY8&th=1

Those DACs are what I use to "stack" switches, including both 48-ports and 24-ports. Keeping a single DAC for 1G and 10G makes life easier and leaves an upgrade path for the future.

u/volzbalz · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

No, the ER-4 will only fit a certain way and it is not flippable to the other side. I recommend using DAC cables for short jumps. That's what you see from eth4 to the 16 port POE switch. It is a 1 meter DAC cable

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSGGUOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/jrod_gac · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I use one of these on my 16 port switch for UL to keep all 16 ports available for network devices. No issues.

10Gtek for Ubiquiti SFP Transceiver, 1.25 Gigabit RJ45 Copper SFP Module, 1000Base-T
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LW2P72V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0yHJAbTJ2R4HX

u/ubergrits · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

That's what I ordered - the "for Ubiquiti" version of this.

u/monsieurpie · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

For the ERX-SFP if I wanted to connect the RJ45 from the modem to the SFP port for the WAN connection I would have to use something like this, correct? Would you recommend that over the Mikrotik hEX for routing over a gigabit connection?

u/BBComputerMan · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti
u/th3tak3n · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I have a UDM-Pro on the way as well with a US-24-500W I'll be connecting it to. I couldn't find ANY SFP (non-plus) jumpers to go between the two, since the US-24-500W only has SFP ports. I instead ordered these to create a short jumper between the two:

https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-1G/dp/B01MY5498F/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=UF-MM-1G&qid=1566242692&s=gateway&sr=8-4


https://www.amazon.com/Meter-Multimode-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B079G56L38/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=.2m+fiber&qid=1566242724&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Both the UDM-Pro and the items above are coming in tomorrow... Excited to get it all hooked up and going.

u/zeke73

u/demonfurbie · 1 pointr/networking
u/amnesia0287 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

Easiest option is just to get a pair of MM 1G fiber transceivers:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MY5498F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_EYnZCb5X0QM6J

And some MM fiber:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552PLMK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title#

I got 2 of each (transceivers come in pairs so I ordered 2 sets to aggregate, this of course is optional but mine was for my AP which also can aggregate so I figured why not) to connect my Xg16 to my us-8-150w.

Never had any issues and no warranty worries since they are actual Uniquiti transceivers.

Edit:

Also, technically you could use 10G transceivers (https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-10G/dp/B01N0XR1RL/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=ubiquiti+10g&qid=1556930057&s=gateway&sr=8-4#) on the xg16 as some people of mentioned, but I’m not sure why you would since they cost more than twice as much and won’t ever give you an advantage since in most normal situations if you are using 2 sfp+ connections that are close you would just use dac cables anyway.

u/Zoxc32 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'd suggest using a TP-Link MC220L and a TP-Link TL-SM311LM SFP module on the Orbi end. Go with OM2/OM3/OM4 multimode fiber, you'll probably have to hire someone to terminate it unless you get a pre-terminated cable. You'll need LC or LC duplex connectors on the fiber to connect to the TL-SM311LM SFP.

On the other end you could also use the TP-Link MC220L + TP-Link TL-SM311LM pair, or use a TP-Link switch with a SFP port and use TP-Link TL-SM311LM in that. TP-Link doesn't seem to have low port count switches with SFP ports though. Mikrotik RB260GS could be an option if you want a 5 port switch with an SFP module: https://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB260GS-CSS106-5G-1S-Ethernet-Original/dp/B00GAZ2HHS
Using a managed switch lets you read out some info and temperature from the SFP modules, but it's not really required.

It seems like TP-Link TL-SM311LM is very overpriced on Amazon. So Ubiquiti UF-MM-1G (a pair of SFP modules) as a cheaper option - https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-1G/dp/B01MY5498F
You can also buy some used SFP for $3 on ebay, but those come with some shipping time. Here's an seller I've used:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cisco-GLC-SX-MM-30-1301-02-1000BASE-SX-SFP-850nm-GBIC-GLC-SX-MM-Transceiver/163606064239

You can also get media converters, SFP modules and pre-terminated fiber all from fs.com. They have tons of nice and cheap networking and fiber stuff.

u/zeke73 · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I ordered that exact same jumper in the same size and I bought the Ubiquiti SFP modules.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY5498F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both arrived today. Just waiting on the UDM-Pro. It's scheduled to be delivered on Thursday

u/austin12block · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I'm using this to go from my USG-PRO-4 to a US-24-250W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHF7JSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eQjZCb6VNWZ8R
They are both plain SFP ports but this cable works great. Didn't have to configure anything!

u/CaptSneeze · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti

I’m using this one between my USG-PRO-4 and US-24-POE. No problems.

u/AlarmedTechnician · 1 pointr/homelab

There's three ways to connect SFP ports...

Transceivers and fiber optic cables. The transceivers plug into the SFP port and then the fiber cable plugs into the transceiver. Each transceiver has a max distance, but some can cover many kilometers.

AOCs, Active Optical Cables, which are fiber optic cables with permenantly attached transceivers at both ends. They're available from 1 to 100 meters.

DACs, Direct Attach Cables, which are copper and available in lengths from 0.5 meter to 10 meters, they have SFP plugs on the ends. They're called direct attach because there's no transceiver.

Here's an article about the cabling: https://blog.cablestogo.com/4-advantages-of-direct-attach-cabling-dac/

Here's what I'd get for stuff in one rack homelab: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRLWCQ/

u/nelsonhopsonly · 1 pointr/phoenix

Amazon has plenty with free same day delivery if you're in a pinch.


https://www.amazon.com/10GBASE-T-Transceiver-Copper-Compatible-SFP-10G-T-S/dp/B06XQBFHNL

u/capn_hector · 1 pointr/hardware

you get SFP NICs where you can and use these for the onboard 10GbaseT transceivers or longer runs on existing cable.

RJ45 switches aren’t coming down very quickly and the power requirements are very high. Best option at the moment is QNAP’s 12 porter. It’s SFP and another 8 ports that you can choose individually between SFP and RJ45, for about $550.

u/VA_Network_Nerd · 1 pointr/networking

Buying a MT-RJ or LC fiber patch cable is easy.
Then you just need an LC-RJ45 transceiver.

https://www.amazon.com/5M-Gigabit-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B007OXJ0HK/

I think this one will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT/

I'd need to know exactly what CIsco switch or line card you are working with to be confident.

u/Glix_1H · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you don’t have space for an Ethernet cable is under the door, then Fiber cables are pretty thin. It ain’t pretty but I’ve used gaffers (white is preferable, colored kinds can stain if they get wet) tape and blue painters tape to get them by doors before. Especially easy if the door has some sort of foam “weather” seal (indoors it’s generally used for dampening noise). The trick is to orient it nearly parallel with the crevice you are trying to get it through, rather than perpendicular.

Then you could use 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716XT1QT

Or just one, and an additional 1g sfp (not 10g sfp+) transceiver module and plug it into a mellanox card from eBay (connectx3 is well supported and cheap)

Just test the gaffers/painters tape after a few months to make sure it won’t pull away weakpaint

u/drakontas · 0 pointsr/homelab

If you're just doing a short connection, consider Twinax Direct Attach Cables (DAC) -- usually around $30-$50 apiece and all one piece, no separate fiber + transceivers. Also look at 10gtek as a manufacturer. You can find them in Amazon and they have compatible versions of basically every item for pretty much any manufacturer, for very, very cheap. Examples:

http://www.amazon.com/10Gtek%C2%AE-1-Meter-10GBASE-CU-Passive-SFP-H10GB-CU1M/dp/B00WHS3NCA