Best computer routers according to redditors

We found 5,002 Reddit comments discussing the best computer routers. We ranked the 635 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Computer Routers:

u/armada127 · 70 pointsr/buildapc

Currently in a house with 5 gamers total

I live in house with 3 other guys and a buddy of ours has been crashing on our couch for the past month (long story, but he's cool and contributes to cooking, cleaning, and utilities) We all play League of Legends, a handful of us play BF3, a few others play Tera, and then various other games such as CS:GO and TF2, and other console games like Super Smash Bros. and Mario Kart.

We have been here for about 1.5 months, below are some issues that we encountered:

  • Bandwidth: we have a 105Mbps down/ 20Mbps up pipe provided by Comcast. The Router that comcast provided sucked, constant latency spikes, no QOS, terrible admin console. I ended up going out and buying my own modem and Router. I got the Motorola SB6121 and an Asus-RT-N66U Router (I could have paid an additional $30 and got an AC router, but honetly, none of us use the wireless for our computers, and any wireless device we do use which include phones, tablets, laptops, Apple TV, Ouya, PS3 etc, do not support 802.11AC and even if they did, none of them even saturate 802.11N) This completely solved our issues with lag spikes, and by far was the most frustrating issue we dealt with thus far.

  • Electricity: I don't know where you guys are living, but being in Texas the A/C was on constantly, so be prepared for a large electric bill. Our last bill was ~$270, but that is pretty much as high as it will go.

  • NAS: Currently I have 3 1TB drives in my computer and I am using Windows to share the content, we are currently using XBMC to play media across our computers as well as the Ouya and the Apple TV which are both hooked up to TVs. (1 in the living room, the other in the breakfast room/nook) I want to eventually build/buy a NAS, but I have been way too busy at work and I've been spending too much money on going and eating out.. so that needs to change.

  • Last bit of advice I'd have to give, is make everyone do chores or something, it gets dirty very fast at our place with 5 guys living there, 2 dogs, 1 cat(although she is mostly outside), plus friends, girlfriends, and parties also all happening at our place.
u/harrynyce · 31 pointsr/HomeServer

There's really a couple different paths to choose when embarking upon this journey. Some folks purchase brand new hardware, while the alternative option is to consider picking up an old/used enterprise server, which can offer incredible value for slightly older, yet awesomely powerful machines with a lot of life left in them for home usage. I hemmed and hawed and was in an almost identical situation as you are right now, only this was roughly ~2 years ago.

I would encourage you to start by taking a gander at /r/Homelab's wiki, you probably won't find a better single source of information anywhere on the web:

It's chock-full of great information. Do you have a budget in mind? What's your ISP bandwidth like? Are you planning to share things remotely, or going to keep most of this in-house? Do you have a decent router to build out your home network around? LOTS of considerations to make, it's difficult to find a one-size fits all solution, as every use case is going to be different to a certain extent.

For me, personally, I started with a trusty little Edgerouter-X that I managed to pick up on sale for $49 way back when. It's an amazingly powerful and versatile device that handled most everything I threw at it. From there you'll need to decide what type of hypervisor you want to run, as this can seriously affect the hardware requirements you initially inquired about.

The path I followed for learning hypervisors was sort of:

  • VirtualBox -- widely used, totally free, can pretty much be installed on any desktop PC, but i found it to be a bit clunky once I got some experience with other options.
  • Microsoft Hyper-V -- there's two variants of this (type 1 & type 2), the former being what you would install on baremetal, as your OS, then manage remotely from another machine on the network... no admin GUI, so you'll need to learn some command line. The latter option (type 2 Hyper-V) can be added to any Windows 10 Pro (or Enterprise) desktop PC, by simply going into "Programs and Features" and using the appropriate checkbox to "Turn Windows features on or off" but be advised, virtual machines want memory. Lots and lots of RAM, depending upon what type and how many virtual machines you ultimately end up running.
  • Proxmox -- is something i only initially dabbled with, so I don't have much firsthand experience, however it's an excellent choice, is also free & open-source if you are comfortable delving into the *nix realm.
  • VMware ESXi -- there are licensing costs associated with this, but ESXi is the free version for home use, with a somewhat limited feature set and can be rather particular about what type of hardware you run this on. This is what we were using at work and is pretty much considered the gold standard in virtualization, so I wanted to get my feet wet and learn more about what our guys were using on a day to day basis, so this is where I ultimately landed. You must check the hardware compatibility list before dropping a ton of cash, if you decide to go this route. This is ultimately what lead me to the used enterprise gear, I picked up my first legit server from Craigslist with intentions of going this route... and i currently have two ESXi 6.7 compute nodes providing all my virtualization needs.

    These are by no means the only options. There's a very passionate community (albeit sometimes a bit toxic) surrounding the FreeNAS project, and just as many folks love unRAID for the simplicity and versatility it offers (at a small, one-time cost, I believe fifty or sixty dollars for the license). Or you could even run your favorite flavor of Linux server and build everything yourself, from the ground up. This is a wonderful resource for getting an idea of what that might entail:

    Some general tips I've managed to pick up over the years; RAM, RAM, RAM... you can almost certainly never have enough. It will be the single most in-demand resource once you get going. Don't stress too terribly much over CPU power, unless you have intentions of pushing out 4K HDR transcoded streams. Knowing what devices the end-users will be using to consume your media from a Plex server is also very helpful, but the general rule is ~2000 Passmark score per 1080p stream. This will be your bible for determining Plex requirements.

    Don't just take my word for anything that's been mentioned here, as my network is an absolute mess and being constantly built, broken, fixed, torn down and rebuilt all over again. That poor attempt at a jumbled network diagram is a bit outdated already, but gives a general idea of the various options available. I mostly am what you would call a "tinkerer" type homelabber. If you have a more specific professional sysadmin path in mind, this may be more of what you are looking for, but I tend to stick more to the homelab realm and get into all sorts of bad little projects. They have a great "Start Here!" thread with an incredible overview that presents things in a MUCH better fashion than I have been able to just now.

    Good luck and welcome to the machine! Used enterprise hardware can be had for fairly cheap these days and you are in luck, it's a great time to embark upon a homelab journey as flash memory prices have finally started to plummet, so SSDs are much more reasonable, as is ECC memory for your server(s). Storage and memory are going to be your biggest costs getting into this. You can get older generation Xeon CPUs with really decent horsepower for next to nothing. Are electricity costs going to be a concern for you? What about physical space and/or noise constraints? Lots to consider which could tip you in one direction or another.

    I think I've given you plenty to chew on for now. My apologies in advance if I've overwhelmed you, as that was NOT my intent... just hoping to save you a little bit of time, as I've spent a couple years constantly reading, researching, evaluating various software and projects and I've really only scratched the surface of what's available. Never enough time in the day.

    Regardless of what path you choose, have fun! I highly encourage both Plex and Pi-hole as your first two projects once you get going. In a perfect world you'd have at least two Pi-holes set up for redundancy. My primary runs in a little Ubuntu Server VM, the secondary nameserver is on a little Raspberry Pi 3 B+ which can take over if I need to reboot servers for whatever reason. Bonus points if you consider combining Unbound with your Pi-hole, as well as an OpenVPN server, or PiVPN for secure browsing while out and about and potentially connected to any sketchy open WiFi networks, PLUS ad-blocking for your entire network and while on the go. Next to Plex, it's probably the single best project I've tinkered with over the past couple of years.

    Please keep us posted on what you decide -- don't hesitate to ask questions if there's stuff I've ranted and raved about that isn't clear in any way (sorry, i tend to ramble in a stream of consciousness style that isn't easy to follow)... rely on the communities of each of these projects, as they're often fantastic resources to help you. If yer unfamiliar with Linux and wanted to learn, then Linux Mint is where I started and would encourage you to use that as your first Linux VM once you're ready. You don't need to buy anything to get started, you'd be surprised how much you can learn on an old PC that's just lying around -- and once you've gotten your feet wet, you may find that your plans will continue to evolve and change. I don't think I've ever once seen a "finished" homelab. They're always a work in progress as there's no limits to what you can learn and do. YMMV.

    Thank you, please drive through. . . =)
u/Megabobster · 28 pointsr/buildapc

Here, have an upgrade guide. This is mostly oriented for gaming, but I tried to make it as general purpose as possible.

First off, if you're trying to survive gaming on an older system and are wanting to upgrade, remember to check out the PC Gaming Wiki as well as the Low Spec Gamer YouTube channel and /r/lowendgaming. There are lots of tips and tricks to get games running better, and if you discover your own, don't forget to share them!

  • If you have a motherboard older than DDR3, save and upgrade to a new platform. It's not worth investing in a platform that old for anything other than novelty purposes.

  • If you want to upgrade your motherboard (like if you're looking at buying an unlocked CPU but have a locked motherboard), save and build a whole new system, unless you happen to come across exactly what you want for cheap. Used motherboards are usually just as expensive as new ones so it's not really worth investing that much into an older platform.

  • If you have an Intel motherboard and want to upgrade your CPU, see my reply to this comment. Character limit, woo!

  • If you have an AMD motherboard, I'm not as experienced with this but upgrading to an 8320 or 8350 Black edition would be good.
  • I'll do some research and put some detailed information here later; like I did for Intel processors. Again, after the aforementioned good night's rest.

  • When buying any used processor, especially on eBay, be very wary of scams. Any price that seems too good to be true or is from a seller with very little feedback is something of which you should be very wary.

  • If you have less than 8GB of RAM, buy a 2x4GB kit. Dual channel actually makes a difference these days. If you want more, well, divide the amount you want by the number of slots you have. 16GB / 4 slots = 4GB sticks, so get a 4x4GB kit. PCPartPicker is a good resource for this, although new DDR3 is getting more expensive. It might be worth looking at the used market, but be careful you don't buy ECC RAM (server memory) unless you have a motherboard and processor that support it.

  • If your system isn't using an SSD as its boot drive, buy an SSD and reinstall your OS onto it. I don't know if I can recommend a SSD smaller than 250GB considering how cheap they're getting. Brand doesn't matter a whole lot but make sure to do a little research first. PCPartPicker, again, is a great resource for this. Filter by the minimum capacity you want and sort by lowest price, then go from there. Samsung is expensive but reliable; I don't know a lot about other brands.

  • If you're running out of space, 2TB HDDs are pretty cheap and reliable these days. Here's a Seagate one, although I couldn't find Western Digital's equivalent for some reason.

  • I don't really know much about graphics cards other than they're hard to buy new these days. If you buy new, I can't recommend anything with less than 4GB of VRAM, because modern games are getting better at using it. If you buy used, try not to go less than 2GB. Other than that, pick what fits your budget and performance needs, and remember you dont have to run everything on max settings. Dropping the settings a little can allow older cards to still compete today. I still run a 7870 and haven't found any unplayable games yet; 99% of games I get a solid 60, and once I upgrade to an e3-1240v3 that's in the mail I expect that to go to 99.9%.

  • Make sure you have a good PSU. You can get really solid ones for $50 or less these days. Don't forget this one when upgrading your system, unless you already have a good PSU. This is the SeaSonic one I've been recommending a lot. Fully modular and 80 Plus Bronze seems pretty good to me. PSUs are a topic of a lot of controversy, though, so make sure to do your research.

  • Similarly, investing in a case you like will last you a long time and significantly improve a build's appearance. Not its frames, though, so this isn't a priority. Pick one with all the features you want, good cable management options, something you don't mind looking at, that kind of stuff. Look up a review (google "[case name] review") where someone builds a computer in it so you can get an idea of what kind of issues people run into when building in it and if those issues are dealbreakers for you.

  • Optical drives aren't really used this day but if you don't have one it can be worth it to pick one up. Blu-ray drives are getting cheaper, too. PCPartPicker -> optical drives -> filter by features -> sort by price.

  • Monitors I cant speak much on, but if you're gaming at all, get one that goes at least 120hz at its native resolution, and don't get one lower than 1080p. If you don't do any gaming, make sure you get an IPS panel. I personally can't recommend any resolution other than 1080p (1920x1080) because compatibility issues are annoying and most software is either designed to work at 1080p, or have workarounds to run at 1080p. 4k is the next jump worth taking since that seems to be the next big standard (again, in my opinion), but hardware is still a generation or two out from that being mainstream.

  • Multiple monitors are a thing. I don't think I can live with less than 3 monitors again. It's so nice to have a game on the center monitor, a webpage on the left, and a voip program on the right. You can kind of do this with window snapping, but, well, you can also do that with 3 monitors for much more information when you need it.

  • Invest in good network gear. I cannot stress this enough. It will cost a chunk of money but will make your life so much better. If you're renting a modem from your ISP, or your modem/router has your ISP's logo on it, you need to upgrade. I'm currently running the Netgear R7000. If you're on cable internet, get a Motorola SurfBoard and something like the R7000. If you're on DSL, there's a variant that has a phone jack for dialing in. If you have fiber, the ONT that you have isn't replaceable but it's probably fine (but you'll still want to replace the included router). For all of these, you'll probably need to look up a guide on switching and it will probably involve calling your ISP. Expect to spend $200ish on the equipment, but seriously, you won't be constantly rebooting your router, wondering why the WiFi isn't working this time, etc. And a good modem will let you know if it can contact the network or not so you'll know if the internet is actually out or not. And if you're renting a router, you'll save money in the long run.

  • If you're using WiFi, get a good network card. I saw this one linked on this subreddit the other day and it looks pretty good. I've personally found USB WiFi dongles unreliable, but YMMV.

  • Don't forget to upgrade your peripherals. Check out /r/mechanicalkeyboards, /r/steamcontroller (it's about more than just the Steam Controller there, the name is a little misleading TBH), and the YouTube channel Rocket Jump Ninja (he does mouse reviews). I think /r/emulation has had some good threads on controllers, too. There's fun stuff like Mayflash adapters for GameCube controllers, or you could pick up a bluetooth dongle for a DualShock 3 or DualShock 4 (or WiiMote passthrough in Dolphin). There's lots of fun to be had in the peripheral department.

    I think that's about everything. Let me know if I missed anything and I'll include it.

    edit: Updated some stuff and tried to include more details.
u/xXBassMan57Xx · 23 pointsr/homelab

I inherited a 12 RU Mid-Atlantic rack and just had to upgrade some things.

Top to bottom:

u/ubrtnk · 22 pointsr/homeautomation

My router was having issues when I started doing HA stuff as well. All those Wemo switches and plugs + Chromecasts and Rokus overloaded my wifi router. I have a Netgear Nighthawk R7000 AC router. The router was having issues with all the wireless and DNS and DHCP requests. So I took a page from my professional side (I'm a Solutions Architect for an HPE partner) and separated out the functionality.

I bought a Ubiquiti Edge Router and have it doing my DNS and DHCP and just have my Nighthawk as an AP. This then set me up to do a multi-AP wireless system. With HA you want to plan your wifi for capacity not speed. A multi-node Access Point system with Google Wifi, Ubiquiti AC Pro or another AP company, you can grow your wireless as you need more capacity. It can be overkill, but I dont have wireless dropping anymore and speed with AC1300 is just fine.

u/DrapeRape · 21 pointsr/funny

I would recommend the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router. From a misc source:

> 5th generation 802.11ac chipset gives you concurrent dual-band 2.4GHz/5GHz for up to super-fast 1.75Gbps

ASUS Aicloud service: Access, stream, share, sync – all on the go with unlimited storage expansion!

> Gigabit Ethernet ports for the fastest, most reliable internet performance

AiRadar optimizes wireless coverage with detachable high-powered antennas

> Enjoy the ASUSWRT dashboard UI for 3 steps easy setup, signal monitoring, and network application control

Download Master for wireless data storage and access to your router-connected USB storage devices

>* File sharing, printer sharing, and 3G sharing via two multi-functional built-in USB ports

Essentially, good range and a good value that is very easy to use and has exceptional capability--in my opinion.

Total cost: $170-$190 USD


Alternatively, I'd also recommend the Netgear WNDR4500 since one of your primary concerns is range.

> This is a N-series wireless router and features 2.4GHz and 5GHz wireless connectivity and can go up-to 900 (450 + 450) megabytes per second and Gigabit LAN ports as well as USB for sharing printer or external storage with the devices connected on your network. Also it has a TimeMachine server for all the Mac folks and You can use an attached hard-drive as a TimeMachine backup drive(wirelessly or wired) . You can monitor this router from your iOS/Android smartphone or tablet (using Netgear Genie App) as well as from PC. It has a good Wireless range so you can enjoy connectivity even by your poolside. Got guests? You can enable Guest Wireless and they are completely separated from your personal data and can only surf the web. You can also use DLNA to stream videos to your smartTV and bring up the show.

Price is about $130-160 depending on where you buy it--making it rather affordable.

If the range of the wi-fi signal is not to your satisfaction, you may need to also purchase a wi-fi signal booster such as the ZyXEL WAP3205 v2 for $49.99.

In total, this duo would set you back around $200-$220 USD, depending on where you can buy it--in addition to giving you insane range (you could probably provide wifi for your neighbors too, haha). Only do this if you need really insane range, though.

u/RiotFTW · 21 pointsr/buildapcsales

Nighthawk AC1750 router for 55 bucks! 55 off for prime day and 20 off with a coupon. Just picked one up.

u/zyck_titan · 20 pointsr/pcmasterrace

If I can make a recommendation;

Don't use the modem/router they provide to you, get a third-party Arris or other DOCSIS 3.0 Modem and a Wifi router (I like the Netgear Nighthawk series, but there are other great ones out there).

Yes this is more expensive initially than using the router they give you, but they also charge you equipment fees each month ($10 per month). So over time you will save money with these parts. Plus you own them and can take them with you when you move.

If this seems like it's too much hassle, go ahead and use the modem/router they provide to you.

u/atomiku121 · 20 pointsr/pcmasterrace

What this guy says. ISPs deal in the tens of thousands, if not millions, so even though it may only save them $5-$10 per modem/router combo unit by using a cheaper one, it ends up saving them a ton of money in the long run. It's worth the money to go buy a nice router (I use and recommend the Netgear R6400 to many people), it has great range, fantastic speeds (as well as I've tested on my 200mb/s internet), a pretty full feature set including QoS, Beamforming, guest networks etc, and most importantly, it won't break the bank, it's currently $95 with Prime Shipping on Amazon.

Source: I work for an ISP, I explain this multiple times a day to customers who want to know why they're having trouble running three game consoles, six tablets, eight phones, five computers and four smart tvs off the same shitty modem we paid pennies for half a decade ago.

u/dmgctrl · 18 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

I run a ubiquiti edge router. I've been pretty pleased with it. I did Pfsense and a few other things as well.

u/blueboybob · 18 pointsr/cordcutters


2 Rokus, 2 cellphones, 1 tablet, 2 laptops often all connected.

Plug in a HDD for easy sharing.

u/NoleZack · 18 pointsr/buildapcsales

Netgear AC1750 for $54 w/ Coupon. This is not a bad deal for someone needing a newer router.

u/0110010001100010 · 18 pointsr/homeautomation

Evening Tim,

My default suggestion is Ubiquiti gear. However something seems, very, very wrong with your network. You shouldn't have a device limit and I would pressure Asus for a fix. RMA it again and make them resolve the problem.

That being said, you said less than $200 so I will offer this:

Little bit more upfront config. However you will be far happier with the results.

u/rmg22893 · 18 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you get all those devices in one box, they're going to all be inferior to discrete solutions. And if one breaks, you're throwing away several perfectly functioning devices.

Edgerouter Lite 3-port: $95

Unifi AC-Lite: $86

TP-Link Gigabit Switch: $25

If you want to do cheap NAS, you might as well just share a drive on a desktop over the network.

u/akashik · 17 pointsr/geek

I can pretty much guarantee that's the case. I pay for 50/5 and as you can see it's right on the button with a little extra room on top.

This comes after the 'stealth upgrade' we got a few months ago - meaning, for the same price I used to get 25/5. A speedtest result would produce the same results, around 26/6 - what I paid for plus a little extra.

Comcast keeps a close eye on what the throttle speed is here.

My equipment is a self-bought DOCSIS 3.0 motorola modem hooked to an ASUS RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router so I know it's not my hardware preventing a higher speed.

u/SenselessTragedy · 16 pointsr/xboxone

What kind of modem do you have? Modems play a huge part, bigger than routers. I'm running this router and it works perfectly

Hopefully you have a docsis 3.0 modem. If you don't, you need to upgrade. I'm running this modem and it's flawless.

u/Gobias_Industries · 16 pointsr/Stadia

Get the GL.inet routers on amazon, they're like 20-30 bucks and simple to set up and literally designed to get around captive portals. Plus they have built in VPN, tethering, range extender, etc.

I have this one:

If you want to be extremely frustrated, follow the other advice about calling the front desk and getting your MAC address approved.

u/goletaal · 15 pointsr/cordcutters

I splurged and got this guy.

Expensive, but if you can swing it, the range & performance are fantastic.

u/ReBurnInator · 15 pointsr/xbox

Assuming you're on wifi get one of these:

Use it to bridge to your communal network, then connect your Xbox to it. Now people can't cast to your Xbox.

u/Tig992 · 15 pointsr/bloomington

Just remember if you do actually go Comcast, to do yourself a favor and buy your own hardware. Get yourself a good DOCSIS 3.0 modem (or 3.1 if you want to spring for gigabit) and a router that won't bottleneck you.

I've had Comcast for multiple years in multiple apartments, both in college with 2 roommates and post grad with my gf. Outside of the outage from like 2-4am once every 4ish months give or take, I've always received the service I paid for. I won't try and say they're a company ran by good people (they're not), but the service is reliable if you get the right hardware for the job. The combo I linked ya would break even in under a year's worth of rental fees.

u/DoctorSteve · 14 pointsr/nexus4

I'm guessing you're still on Wireless-G for your Wifi. That's your bottleneck. Plug a computer into the router and see the speeds it achieves.

I bought myself a brand new router and I pull down 40mbps throughout the house.

u/ShevElev · 14 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

My router has a way to limit bandwidth speed for certain devices for certain hours. I imagine many do.

u/xman65 · 14 pointsr/cordcutters

I have a Surfboard 6183 I got from Amazon. I am using a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter-X for routing and firewall. A pair of Ubiquiti WAPs provide wireless service.

u/Pyromonkey83 · 14 pointsr/buildapc

There are quite a few options out there, and it really depends on what your focus is. Do you have multiple 802.11 AC devices, or are most still on the N band? Do you game, and if so, do you plan on doing so hardwired or wireless (obviously I recommend wired if you can, but not everyone has this option)? How large is your living space, and are you in a house with few wireless points around or in an apartment with tons of wireless congestion around?

For everyday use that will serve you well all around with solid 802.11AC performance, I'd recommend the Asus RT-AC68U. FYI on this one, Amazon currently has it listed for WAY above what most retail shops are at. I've seen them recently as low as $115-130. Probably worth surfing around for a better price (FYI - if you have a Micro Center near you, they have it on sale right now for $140).

If you game heavily, and it is a big part of your daily life, the Netgear R7000p Nighthawk router is well worth the additional cost. I've seen this go as low as $140 in the past, but its far more often closer to the current price of $180.

Finally, if these are too far out of your price range, that's totally understandable. For a budget pick, the TPLink Archer C7 is an excellent all around router especially for the low cost. The major downsides of going with a budget router is the lack of good QOS (quality of service) tools to manage bufferbloat and latency for gaming, and slower processors that can harm large file transfers over a network or multiple devices at the same time. It all depends on your usage.

One final note - Comcast's device is often a modem AND router in one. Do you have a Docsis 3.0/3.1 modem already that you will be using with this, or do you need to purchase one of those as well? You can not use one or the other, you must have both (unless only hardwiring to one PC, with no wifi).

u/wsaaasnmj · 13 pointsr/livesound

I would shy away from a travel router, but there are plenty of consumer ones that are small enough to throw in a backpack or a small bag.

The problem with a travel router is that they only usually have a WAN port instead of a LAN port. WAN is looking for a internet connection/modem and will do weird things if it doesn't find one. Basically the same as plugging your console into the WAN port on a consumer router, it is trying to use your console to create a network, but all you want to do is connect your console to a network, not have it be the source. I am no network engineer(even though it feels like it sometimes), but if anyone else can explain better I would love to hear how you interpret it.

I am using a small ASUS router right now as I write this to run sound for a college graduation. This one to be exact.

Router is under the stage next to a stagebox mixer, and I can walk everywhere in the arena, and even outside and have no issues with dropouts. I am using a iPad air which takes advantage of AC routers and beamforming.

Just stick with a brand that is reputable, Asus, Netgear, and Apple are a few that come to mind.

You dont have to spend a fortune to get good coverage, you just have to spend smart, and get good, reputable gear.

Another tip: Hide your SSID in router settings. You basically get DDoS attacked by people wanting free wifi if you don't, even when you password protect.

u/creepykirk · 13 pointsr/howto

I have an ASUS wireless router that has USB ports on the back that support a hard drive or printer that can be shared on the network. This is a good option and it works well.

u/infeststation · 12 pointsr/tmobile
  • If you're on T-mobile One, enable Kickback on all your lines. That will get you a $10 credit for every line that uses less than 2gb.

  • I'm not sure if they're still doing it, but if you go to your local T-Mobile store, you can get a free "CellSpot" router. It's a rebranded Asus router and it's pretty kickass.

  • If you're interested in Sling TV, they offer a 30% off promo to T-Mobile customers.

  • I would uninstall/disable all of the T-mobile apps you can except for visual voicemail. It's name tells you what it does, but it simply lets you listen to your voicemails without having to call. My T-mobile and Device Unlock cannot be disabled, but the rest can.

  • Samsung and T-Mobile are running a promo that will get you a free VR for purchasing the S8. They're also offering a free entertainment kit that you can redeem in the Shop Samsung app.
u/KingdaToro · 12 pointsr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link Archer C7. It's the only sub-$100 wireless router worth getting. There are cheaper routers that are good, but there aren't cheaper wireless routers that are good.

u/DT16 · 12 pointsr/OpTicGaming

remember what i told you about routers........this is not what you need

for those who dont know:

u/th3magpi3 · 12 pointsr/NetflixViaVPN

Got you solved mate.

Get one of THESE.

They're a pre-configured VPN router. If you're technically versed they wont be a problem for you to set it up with your VPN connection.

You can use it in a bridge mode where it will pull the internet signal from your router over ethernet, apply a VPN to it, and broadcast a second wifi network. That network will be from the USA.

You can also configure the device to pull in the current Canada wifi signal, apply the VPN to it and send out the VPN'd signal down an ethernet cable straight to the 360.

In regards to the VPN, go for a NORD Dedicated VPN from the states.

You don't need a new Netflix subscription.

u/scottocs · 12 pointsr/usenet

I have Gigabit through EPB Fiber and I use an Asus RT-AC66U. It looks like there is a newer RC-AC87U.

On my router, I replaced the firmware with Merlin's firmware which adds some extra functionality.

It's nice having a built-in VPN and all the other features of Asus's firmware, but I doin't use many of them since I have a computer that acts as a server for that.

u/honestFeedback · 12 pointsr/Chromecast

Hi. I don't really follow the religious part of this but I'm interested in understanding it. Is this part of the concept where you can't use machinery on the sabbath, as this guy is controlling your TV making you either have it on all day, or break you religious obligations by turning it off?

That was just for my interest. He's a dick regardless of that for a) controlling your chromecast and b) sticking his nose in your religion.

As said elsewhere here - maybe look into getting another router. Maybe this one. Allows you to connect the router to your current wifi, and set-up a private network from that that your neighbour won't be able to use.

u/KeyserSOhItsTaken · 11 pointsr/gadgets

I have the Dark Knight version.

u/ChingChong_DingDong · 11 pointsr/Chromecast

I would go with the ASUS RT-N66U it is a great router and excellent range.

u/roo-ster · 11 pointsr/WarOnComcast

The solution to this is simple. Buy a $70 DOCSIS 3.0 modem and a $120 or less wireless router. Return your equipment to Comcast and KEEP THE RECEIPT.

u/nibbles_and_bits · 10 pointsr/techsupport

I'm partial to Asus routers. I see this model on Amazon for $89.

Any decent router will cost you about a $100, and to be honest, Verizon's routers really aren't that bad. They're made by Actiontec, which is a decent brand. Might just want to suck it up and buy (not rent!) from Verizon.

u/OSUTechie · 10 pointsr/techsupport

From the information you have provided, your router does not have QoS settings. So here are a few options:

0.) Contact ATT and see if they have a higher-end modem/router that supports QoS.

IF ATT doesn't have one, then you can do the following.

1.) Purchase a router that supports QoS - TP-LINK TL-WR841N Wireless N300 Home Router or NetGear NightHawk
1a.) If you have an older wireless router lying around, you can install DDRT and/or Tomato on it. However, you may also be limited to lower speeds.
2.) Set your 2Wire to Bridge Mode.
3.) You can copy your settings (manually) from the 2Wire over to the new router, so you do not have to go through the hassle of handing out WPA2 keys and SSIDs to all the machines again. As long as the SSID and the WPA2 key are the same, the machines should automatically join.
4.) Follow the manual for which ever router you got to enabled QoS.
4a.) If you want to setup static IPAs for your all your devices you can.
5.) Buy some decent sound-canceling headphones so you do not have to hear your sister complain and whine about slow internet speeds. ;)

u/SofaAssassin · 10 pointsr/firstworldproblems

I'll cover a few options based on price and level of technical knowledge needed.

For T-Mobile Customers

If you're a subscriber of T-Mobile, I'd recommend taking advantage of their Wi-Fi CellSpot loaner program for a $25 deposit.

This program gets you a T-Mobile optimized router, which is a modified version of the
$100+ Asus RT-AC68U.

It is missing some options from the stock Asus unit but still has options for stuff like bandwidth prioritization and QoS (the thing is also preconfigured to give high priority to wi-fi phone calls).

User-friendly Options

  • TP-Link Archer C7

    This costs about $80-90 and is probably the best overall option for anyone that wants a decent wireless router that has a lot of useful options. It lets you specify bandwidth settings that apply to an entire guest network (both upload/download speeds), as well as limit bandwidth to specific devices. This unit is generally recommended by r/homenetworking for a cheap, decent router, and by Wirecutters.

  • D-Link DIR-880L

    Roughly $100 - I used to use D-Link wireless routers and they are easy to use and I have . This model can also be loaded with DD-WRT if you're so technically inclined. DD-WRT is an open-source firmware that can be loaded onto a variety of routers that gives a lot of options for power users. The default firmware will still have options to control bandwidth and QoS, so you won't need any advanced special firmware.

    More Technical Options

    If you want to learn some slightly more advanced configuration, one of the most price-accessible options is a Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X combined with a Ubiquiti AC Lite wireless AP. This combination costs roughly $120-130, but it is better than similarly priced (or even more expensive) home consumer combination wireless routers and provide a lot of options and features.

    You can traffic shape at the EdgeRouter X, so you can do things like limit the bandwidth provided to the wireless network to begin with, or limit it to certain clients. You could also do limiting at the AC Lite access point and create a special group of users (basically, login information) with limitations on that group.

    The ERX can handle an ISP connection of probably up to 900 Mbps, though I have no first-hand confirmation of this as my home connection is 200/10. I've been running the ER-X and UniFi AC Lite at home for about two years with no problems, and fairly heavy internet use.

    However, if you just need a relatively easy consumer router, go with the easier options.

u/lobehold · 10 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

A heads-up - this is selling at the same price on at the moment with free shipping.

u/thaweatherman · 10 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Seconded. I use Arlo and love it. Decent price point, good mobile app, usable browser app. Small (easy to hide), completely wireless, and you can get different skins to camouflage the outdoor ones. Up to 5 cameras can be used on a free plan. If you'd like, OP, I recently wrote up a decent wall of text about Arlo and can send it to you.

EDIT: I'll just post the wall here.


Here's some more information about Arlo to help you out.

5 wire-free cameras + base station ($630) -

other camera bundles are on that listing as well. 4 camera bundle for $499, 3 camera bundle for $419, 2 camera bundle for $299, 1 camera kit for $173.99, plus a couple other options. i would say to just get the 5 camera bundle and don't bother with the arlo q if you're only worried about the outside of the house. the add-on cameras are on sale right now for $145 instead of $160, so if you want more than 5 then now is the time to buy!

3 silicone skins ($24.99) -

i like the black skins for the cameras i put outside. if they are on a white background though (maybe the house is painted white where you mount it) then the skins would make it stand out more. since mine are in trees i like the black.

indoor/outdoor mount (black) ($19.99) -

also has the white version, the standard wall mounts the cameras come with (maybe you want multiple mounts for a single camera so you can move it around), and the table/ceiling mount.

as for the cameras themselves, they are weatherproof and can operate between 14 and 122 degrees F ( the batteries are the limiting factor as they stop functioning properly outside of those ranges. it should be noted that below freezing temperatures will reduce battery life significantly, but the cameras will still operate down to 14F (

the cameras should be at least 10 feet away from the base station and can be up to 300 feet away. walls and barriers limit distance a bit, but the LEDs on the cameras and base station can let you know if there is a connection problem (

you can have a max of 15 cameras attached to one base station, but only 5 can all be streaming at the same time ( you can also add base stations to extend your range.

finally, subscriptions ( 5 cameras + 7 days cloud storage/1 GB of video for free; 10 cameras + 30 days of recordings/10 GB of video for $10/month or $99/year; 15 cameras + 60 days of recordings/100 GB of video for $15/month or $149/year. if you get an arlo q, you can purchase a 24/7 continuous video recording (CVR) feature for $10/month or $99/year for 14 days or double that for 30 days, all per camera. unfortunately you can only watch these videos from the cloud: they can't be downloaded.

if you want to save your videos, you have to download them yourself and store them. videos are cycled out every 7/30/60 days depending on your plan. there is no undelete, so if you delete something, it's gone, and if they delete something, it's gone.

arlo provides useful help videos for setting up the system and debugging any possible problems ( there are recommended heights/angles for the cameras and that's all addressed in the videos.

if you happen to own a netgear nighthawk router, you might be able to use that as a base station instead of buying a bundle with a base station. you can also still get the base station and use that to extend the range for cameras you might want to place far from the house. if you don't already have that router and want a good upgrade, i highly recommend it ( i don't have mine set up currently, but it's a good machine. if your existing router works fine, then no need to spend the money!

it should be noted that if you want more than 5 cameras but dont want to pay the subscription fees, you can simply make a second account with a second base station and link up to 5 cameras to that. then you have two free accounts, but you do also have to sign in and out with each to check cameras, which can become cumbersome.

u/TheWhiteRebbit · 10 pointsr/VPN

It is much cheaper to flash the firmware by yourself on a router that supports Tomato or DDR- WRT and then use the built in VPN client.

For that money the flash routers are a scam: They charge you e.g. USD 349.99 for the netgear nighthawk r700:

On Amazon you can buy it for 159.00 USD:

How to install and set up Tomato:

u/svideo · 10 pointsr/hardware

Processing packets at gbit speed without dedicated switch hardware isn't likely to happen at a $35 price point for a while yet.

UBNT makes a $50 unit that can do it, but they do so with dedicated hardware to offload packet processing.

u/iHelp101 · 9 pointsr/perktv

All the links contain affiliate links (tag=lx7-20&linkId=fe646f143f52bb0de1504aa396676d4e). Unaffiliated links are below. The user has posted affiliate links before, so I believe this is not an "Oops" mistake. The users also posted this in Beermoney as well, but it was removed because of the affiliate links included.
Access Point -

Router -

Powerline Adapter -

Modem -

Ethernet Cables -

u/fixmywifi · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Seconded. What they are doing is totally egregious.

You could run fiber never mind Ethernet for what they are quoting you.

Here's a kit list of what I would buy if I was treating myself to a fancy home setup directly related to their list.

ABR4500 / Netgear AC1750 @ $110


Replace the ABR4500 & XWS2510 with

Netgear Orbi AC Mesh system, currently $344.99 on Amazon.

At this point you may as well stick with the same brand so to replace the AGS1016 go for;

Netgear 16 port Gigabit POE managed switch, currently $159.99 on Amazon.

Replace AGS1008M with;

Netgear 8 port Gigabit POE Managed switch, currently $79.99.

Total cost = $584.97 vs $2229.92

You could upgrade all of that hardware to Ubiquiti for Small business grade hardware. Based on what you've said I'd find a local small business networking supplier and have them quote you a cost for the above inc installation and support. Their time should be the most expensive item on the list NOT the hardware.

Good luck!

u/CBRjack · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Good gigabit router : TP-Link Archer C5 - $77

Updated version : TP-Link Archer C1200 - $95 on sale at $70

Very good gigabit router : TP-Link Archer C7 - $90

u/ominous_anonymous · 9 pointsr/StallmanWasRight

First you'd need to set up a separate SSID specifically for the TV.
Most routers/WiFi APs support having multiple SSIDs set up in parallel nowadays.

Then, you'd need to update your router/AP's firewall rules for that SSID to disallow all incoming and outgoing connections. If your router/AP doesn't support custom firewall rules, you'd need to set another machine as the gateway and then set firewall rules on that machine.

Another easier, but potentially more expensive, option would be to have a second WiFi AP that you associate the TV with, and then just don't plug anything into that AP's WAN port. You can get a cheap WiFi AP for under $30, for example this.

u/port53 · 9 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The TL-WR940N is a $25 4 year old (design) router with 10/100 (no gig) ports, single digit Mb/s wifi speeds and a lot of bad reviews, there's probably not much at all you can do to make it any better.

I'd return it, put a few more bucks in to a new purchase and get something that won't get in the way of a good on-line experience.

u/Andrew129260 · 9 pointsr/PS4

There is no such thing as a "gaming" router or modem. All of that is marketing fluff.

Having both your own router and modem is a good idea. See here for good examples:

(I am assuming your USA)


MOTOROLA 16x4 Cable Modem, Model MB7420, DOCSIS 3.0. Approved by Comcast Xfinity, Cox, Charter Spectrum, Time Warner Cable, and More. Downloads 686 Mbps Maximum (No WiFi)


NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700)

Wired is always better than wireless. However, if wired is not possible, position the router close to the device and use the 5g band. This is the closest thing to wired on a wireless connection.

u/wally_z · 9 pointsr/homelab

Personally, I'm a fan of Ubiquiti's EdgeRouters. Honestly, I haven't had any experience with other routers (minus crappy consumer grade Netgear and Buffalo), but the EdgeRouters can still do a lot.

It's got a full GUI, you can SSH, TELNET I believe, SNMP, etc.

Another option is to build your own with PfSense, which is very much in depth but it's got quite a learning curve (at least for me). If you're willing to put in the time and effort, this is the way to go.

Also, I'm sure you know this by now but these are only routers, you'll need a wireless AP to go with these.



u/boppop · 9 pointsr/apple

I'll be the first to admit it, I am a huge Apple fanboy. They make great products and for the most part their quality and function are superb. That being said, the Airport Extreme is easily substandard to some of the other routers out there on the market. ( is extremely powerful and probably a better investment.

I honestly know of no real advantage that Apple's routers offer that aren't commonplace. Beam-forming maybe but, I don't really notice it to be worth it.

This would be a different conversation if you were looking into an Apple Timecapsule for the backup purposes.

u/RossIV · 9 pointsr/gatech

I'm a fan of the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite. It pushes full gigabit all day and doesn't break a sweat. Have been using it for the last three years without any issues.

u/K5cents · 9 pointsr/battlestations

Just my humble anti-PCMR battlestation.

Pictured Tech:

u/fuzzyspudkiss · 9 pointsr/techsupport

First of all, its not really fair for you to limit your sister's videos to 480p so you can play OW without lag. You should both be able to share the internet, just because you see your usage as more important doesn't mean it is.

Now that that's out of the way, I'm guessing that your main issue is that you are trying to game over WiFi, as you said Ethernet's not an option. I would place most of the blame on one of two things, either you've got a shitty router that cant handle a lot of traffic and is causing latency OR you internet speeds are sub 25MB/s.

Option 1, shitty router: Without knowing the specs for your router I cant tell you for certain if this is the issue but streaming media does consume a fair amount of clock cycles and if its an older router (especially a cheaper model of older router) they are not built to handle that sort of traffic. A new Wireless AC router should be able to handle that traffic easily, I really like the ASUS RT-AC68U. ASUS in general has a very friendly router interface. To utilize AC performance, you may need to buy a new wireless adapter for your PC as well but your current one will connect via N.

Option 2, slow internet: With the above mentioned AC router you can implement QoS, without paying for faster internet this is the only way to resolve your issue. As I said before, its not fair to restrict your sisters laptop to slow 480p performance BUT (at least in my ASUS router) you can make a list of up to 5 devices that will be prioritized in the order of the list. Online gaming does not take much bandwidth, watch your task manager while gaming, most of the time you will be using less than 500 kb/s. If you put your device on the top of the list your packets will have priority, but your sister's laptop should still be able to stream without any difference to her quality. Some routers also have a "game prioritization" mode where they will prioritize known gaming traffic from any source.

Hope this helps, if you have any questions let me know.

Edit: I also would like to point out that I've tried gaming over a Powerline adapter as mentioned below. It was OK but there was still some lag and it seemed to max out at 100Mb/s download speed. I had better luck with a wireless AC pci-e card and an AC router.

u/RadBadTad · 8 pointsr/techsupportgore
u/Toasty27 · 8 pointsr/gadgets

Netgear's firmware is garbage. The only manufacturer that I've been able to get consistent performance and reliability out of is Asus. I don't think it's a coincidence that their firmware is open source and based off of DD-WRT.

Although their models have gotten cheaper over the years. I bought my AC87 refurbished for $180 probably four years ago now, and it's still running great. The AC56 (I think that was $120 when I bought it?) that it replaced started giving me trouble after a year or so.

If I had to make a recommendation today, it would probably be the AC68 (currently $140 on Amazon), although if you were in a small apartment the AC66 ($65 on Amazon) would probably also do you well.

Asus provides regular updates to their routers, and there's good support for third party firmware.

u/winter_whiskey · 8 pointsr/toledo

The wireless router supplied by Buckeye is junk. What I did was get the modem without wireless and bought the modem below.

u/agent-wonderbread · 8 pointsr/technology

I just ordered a Surfboard 6121 and its a really great modem. Pair it with an ASUS router like this and you have a wonderful combination. The range is extremely far, you can customize a lot of settings and you don't have to pay the monthly price. Comcast was charging me $8 a month for my modem, so after 6 months ill have paid for it already (picked mine up on sale).

u/EmilGH · 8 pointsr/lifx


My connectivity issues all disappeared when I moved from a Netgear Night Hawk router with Shibby's Tomato Firmware to an Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX and UniFi AP AC Pro.

Again, took a bit to get up and running but once I did -- I'll never go back to consumer networking gear. The LIFX bulb connections have been rock-solid ever since that move... In fact, 3 of the top 5 devices with the most "connectivity uptime" are LIFX bulbs. The other 2 being the Nest Protects. 😊

u/CalTigerr · 8 pointsr/india

I'm using this for a year, getting good speeds.


TP-Link Archer C1200 Gigabit Wireless Wi-Fi Router

u/9sW9SZ189uXySHfzFVFt · 8 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get a router that allows you to enter the captive portal information. I got this travel router so I could do this when traveling at hotels:

u/Steve2828 · 8 pointsr/googlehome

You want a bridge, not a repeater - a repeater wouldn't help. You need something like this:

You create a wifi network with this, and join your Google Home and phone to that. Then have he bridge join your dorm's wifi network. This creates a wifi network that only you and your Home see.

u/semose · 8 pointsr/sysadmin

Obligatory Ubiquiti EdgeRouterX routers cost $60 comment.

u/agoia · 8 pointsr/answers just have all of your devices connect to this and connect it to their WiFi. Some devices will detect bridging and kick it off but I'd say less than 5% of RV parks would have their shit set up to that degree.

u/mcribgaming · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Dude you can get almost any router on the market and it will be far too good for your shorty speeds.

I've had a lot of luck with this ASUS RT-ARCH13 deployed in other people's houses that did not want any fuss at all. It does not support third party firmware, and that is the reason I think it is so cheap, but it is solid with stock firmware. I never hear cries for help from anyone I set up with this unit. It's selling for $60 right now, and has 5GHz wireless and gigabit LAN ports, and can work with far higher speeds if you get some in the future:

If you want to go really cheap, but with a model that has stood the test of time and DOES support third party firmware (you might not care), here is the old ASUS N-12, which only has the 2.4 GHz wireless network, but should still be more than enough for your trickle down Internet speed. It's $30 new, but honestly you can probably find one of these for <$10 if you look around at used equipment places:

You might just want to ask around your social group for any used router they have and don't use, like any "N" class router. Your speed just needs any semi-modern wireless equipment.

u/therealrico · 7 pointsr/burlington

I do, it’s cheaper in the long run. Bought mine in 2014, still works great paid between 100-150 but can’t remember.

This is the model I bought in 2014.

u/MalfeasantMarmot · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Honestly this would serve your needs well for just basic internet access and streaming. It's a good price and easy to configure. Don't fall for any of the gaming router marketing BS or anything like that.

u/LearnsSomethingNew · 7 pointsr/Android

So.... if I understand this correctly, T-Mobile is offering this $200 router on Amazon for a refundable $25, if you say you need it for Wifi calling, regardless of whether or not you use wifi calling?

You're telling me I can have a $200 router for $25? No strings attached?

EDIT: More info after some research:

TL;DR - Yes, postpaid customers get a $200 router for $25 to use Wifi-calling on T-Mo branded smartphones (not Nexus 4 and Nexus 5 bought from Google). Prepaid customers get charged $99. These charges are technically refundable deposits. This router is probably better than your home router you currently have, and is very lightly modified, so it's an overall upgrade to your home network.

u/knot13 · 7 pointsr/gadgets

There are plenty of good routers that are under $120. Heck, the Nighthawk is on Amazon for $99.99 and is a solid choice, and there are other options for cheaper that would still be considered a quality WiFi router.

u/perko12 · 7 pointsr/perktv

So, if your connection is slowing on desktop while hardwired I'd forgo the access point for now and get a dedicated router, an Edge Router X, instead. I'd then set your current device into access point mode and see how it goes.

Having said that, are you sure it's your router/ap and not your ISP speed?

u/mutatedferret · 7 pointsr/beermoney

no he doesnt. its all about how you set up your network. i have a linksys EA3500 handling 10 devices. i have a crap router behind it handling my checkpoints farm for that IP(10 devices). i have a netgear something handling 15 devices on a different IP. the key is to separate the channels. i run mine on 1, 6 and 11. no overlap for the 3 programs i run (sb, perk and checkpoints).

however, if you are going to upgrade, may as well as upgrade to something commercial that will handle the traffic you're throwing at it:

use this as your router (this is what im about to upgrade too)

use this as your access point for your wifi devices. add more as needed

$300 routers are trash compared to something under 150 thats commercial-grade.

u/ldjarmin · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If you really want to have a high quality, robust solution then ditch the consumer grade stuff entirely. What I (and many others) would suggest is something like using the Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite as your router. Then you run Ethernet to one (or more, if your house is big enough) Ubiquiti Unifi Access Point to provide wifi. These are rock solid, business class products for a great price. And the best part is if you need more coverage, you just plug in another Unifi access point and put it where you want.

As for a modem, most people on here would recommend the Motorola line, like the SB6141 or the SB6183, but those are dependent on being on your ISP's approved modem list (though most major American ISPs approve of these particular modems).

u/kev23777 · 7 pointsr/Chromecast

You need to get a travel router. I got this one and it works great. [HooToo TripMate Nano] (

u/dantheman5606 · 7 pointsr/Boise

In that case it could definitely be a poor wifi signal. You might want to think about getting a wireless AC device if the price is right. My parents had this same issue when they first switched to CableOne at their house. They have the 100/3 plan and were only getting about 1Mbps down on wifi. I bought them the when it was on sale a while back for $99 and now they get about 90 - 100 Mbps down when on devices that support wireless AC. I hope this information helps some, but I am not sure if the chromebook that you have supports wireless AC. If it does not then there would be no need to spend the extra money.

u/Pokes_Softly · 7 pointsr/buildapcsales

I was looking for routers. Here's a few I was watching. Went with just the router don't need a modem.

2 in 1. Modem/router combo.
$140 ARRIS SURFboard SBG7580AC Docsis 3.0 Cable Modem/ Wi-Fi AC1750 Router

Just the router. $75 NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700)

u/IVIeehan · 6 pointsr/Chromecast

I got got one of these hootoo travel routers.

It lets you setup a private network off the back of a public one like xfinitywifi our something similar.

u/MightySchwa · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I recently got the TP-link AC1900 "Archer C9". Its been fantastic. Can be had for $79 on Amazon. I have 8 devices connected to it, 2 of them hard-wired. I can have a hard-wired device and a wireless device both streaming HD video, and wireless gaming on a laptop. I will still pull a download speed of 40 mpbs on my phone on speedtest. My ISP service is 60 down/6 up.

u/mshik3 · 6 pointsr/SiliconValleyHBO

It's a nighthawk router. I currently use it and it's phenomenal, looks badass, and can handle gigabit speeds quite easily.

u/mercenary_sysadmin · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> TP Link Archer C2 (v3) AC900. 433Mbps on 5Ghz

That router is complete garbage. The 5 GHz radio on it is 1x1, so it's not in any way surprising you're only seeing 50 Mbps or so down from it on an iPhone vs 100 Mbps on a public network - the public network will have 2x2 chipsets in the APs, so you'll see roughly double the throughput.

> 51Mbps is just 11% of what it claims to do.

AC speed ratings are complete horseshit, FYI. I literally wrote a 6,000-ish word article about how and why they're horse shit, and still didn't cover all the reasons. The TL;DR in your case is that 433 Mbps is based on PHY, and you literally could not get that amount of actual data transferred from your phone to that router if you disassembled both of them and ran wires from the antenna mount on the one to the antenna mount on the other.

If you replace the C2 with a better router you should be able to pull anywhere from 100 to 200 Mbps from an iPhone 8 within reasonable range (no more than twenty-five feet and two interior walls) of the router. You'll be able to connect from farther than that, but speed and quality will degrade.

I'm assuming you want to keep going cheap on routers, or you wouldn't have a C2 in the first place. If that's the case, try replacing it with a $69 Archer A7 instead.

Also note that the speed you manage with your devices will go down depending on how many devices are connected at once, how active they are, and in general will be affected more by the devices with poorer connections than the ones with better connections - ie if a phone is all the way at the kitty-corner end of the apartment as far and as many walls away as possible from the router, it will tend to impact the service quality of ALL devices, not just of itself, as it will use an inordinate amount of airtime.

u/dd4tasty · 6 pointsr/AskTechnology

This is going to get downvoted because of the A word, but, the Apple Airport Extreme is an extremely capable and stable wireless router.

The 5th generation version is still fine. Go up to $200 and you can get the current version, which is AC capable, etc.

If you have game consoles, which like uPnP, be advised the Apple does not offer uPnP.

If you have game consoles:



u/aaronky · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ubiquiti EdgeMax EdgeRouter Lite ERLite-3 I have a setup with a lot more load and it works flawlessly.

u/MiracleWhippit · 6 pointsr/techsupport

You've got two real options:

First is a switch like this for like ten bucks

This technically puts you on whatever network the campus' router is putting you on. They could keep everything isolated on a per port basis... or they could have you networked to internal resources... or even to the entire dorm. You could probably tell by opening up network places and seeing if anything pops up.

Second is a router. I'd say get a wireless one and then you'd be able to share your own wireless SSID to your phones/tablets/laptops or whatever. For 30$ you can get this Asus one. I like Asus because it's pretty easy to configure their stuff and you're able to use it as an AP, Repeater, Router or a plain old switch if you want to.

I'd suggest a router so you'll have your own firewall and you'll be able to setup your own wireless network in your dorm.

u/[deleted] · 6 pointsr/sysadmin

I just picked up this one and it's been fantastic. You can do some pretty nice configurations with it.

u/DZCreeper · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That is a terrible use of money.

That combination will be able to match it in performance easily while saving you over $100. If coverage is not full enough then buy a second access point and move them apart to each handle half the house.

u/zRobber · 6 pointsr/Chattanooga

Impossible to go wrong with an R7000. Powerful enough for a small business (<75 people), and the WiFi coverage is amazing.

u/Bobby_Marks2 · 6 pointsr/VintageApple

I have an 867MHz G4 TiBook, running OS 9. I do most of my writing on it.

It isn't that heavy, although I guess that depends on what people mean by mobile. I'm not hiking somewhere to setup and work on it, so I don't have an issue. I wouldn't think twice about a bus/train commute with it. It's just a laptop. Doesn't hurt at all to use on your lap, if that's what you mean.

Battery life is poor, but it depends on what you do and how you want to use it. At full brightness and running the CPU for performance, even without crunching I can burn through the battery in an hour or so. But turn the brightness down, minimize everything else that eats power - I can get 4+ hours out of it. If you're serious, you either buy a new battery, or take the time to rebuild your own.

You say you don't need WiFi, but if you do: AirPort cards don't play nice with OS9, and they don't support WPA2 so they don't really connect anywhere even on OS X. What I do is use a USB-powered travel router that basically turns wifi networks into an ethernet connection. Aside from a couple of cables and a tiny box connected when online, it's a really simple way to connect to any/every modern wireless network - I recommend it even if just to surf and download classic software directly to the system. Speaking of surfing: Classilla. You can do quite a few useful tweaks to it, block out ad servers, and ultimately you are able to surf most reasonable websites (Reddit, Google, Mac Garden, anything text-driven or served by the great search engine for ancient-friendly websites).

That said, the TiBook makes for a great writing machine with OS9, specifically because it takes that effort to get online and be distracted. Even if you can't get all-day battery out of it, it puts you in your creative space and leaves you alone. Even if it needs cables, or a power outlet. When it comes to writing, the most important aspect of a laptop to me is how much my fingers and wrists like the keyboard, and the keyboard is great.

If you are so inclined, I also recommend a good solid clamshell iBook. They are bulkier and heavier, and smaller screens really bother some people, but the keyboard is without a doubt the greatest laptop keyboard I've ever used (and it's a common sentiment around the web).

u/meeekus · 6 pointsr/PleX

I bring my roku and use a travel network router. If there is any authentication, any device connected to the router can act as the authenticator. I usually use my phone to enter the room number and last name. Then the session is tied to the router.

u/stevecrox0914 · 5 pointsr/debian

You can by AP Clients for not much money, basically they can be configured to connect to a wifi network and then expose a ethernet port for you to connect a device to. I've yet to meet a ethernet device Debians installer can't figure out.

I use the below for installing things on to my tablet hybrid:

u/SpyCake1 · 5 pointsr/Cruise

Kids these days....

But back on point, I'd recommend a nano/travel router like this one here -

u/cherwilco · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ubiquiti Edgerouter X workhorse of a router for the price

Ubiquiti Uap Ac Lite excellent wap that will far outperform that old linksys. step up to the pro if you need more range or have a lot of wifi devices

u/Gooble-Snorf · 5 pointsr/networking

There is truth to this statement. I was adapting the argument from what I recommend regarding server/workstation backups (which are lackluster, untested, or nonexistent in many places I've consulted for).

The main point I like to get at though is the increased reliability in having hardware meant for heavy or 24/7 use, and then not too difficult to replace if things go pear-shaped. Also that they wouldn't necessarily need to be replaced with the same exact model.

I've recommended cheapo setups with SOHO gear, but with a spare on-hand pre-configured for the environment. However I can no longer recommend off-the-shelf gear for the most part, with things like this edgerouter X becoming so cheap and available.

u/deebeeoh · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Uhm, none of the above? Yeah none of the above. It looks like you are looking to spend around $200-230 for your networking gear, which is fine, we can work with that!

  • Router: Ubiquiti Edgerouter X normally $50 but appears to be $60 right now. Get fucked I guess.
  • Switch: TP-Link switch $25
  • Access Point: Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Pro $130

    Total is around $210

    Now here is the thing with this setup. You will mount your access point on the ceiling as close to the center of your home as you can. It will give you much better coverage than the netgear setups, as well as a far more mature and stable access point. If in the future you decide you need better coverage still you can just buy a second one and hook it up, make sure to wire it back into the switch as well. The access point comes with a PoE injector so you only need to run a single line to it.

    You are buying gear for your business, buy business grade gear :) Especially because it costs you the same anyway.

u/paticao · 5 pointsr/PleX

You can grab the Asus

Or you can get the nighthawk for 180 but can be found for less if you search online

u/mag914 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Antennas aren’t your issue, your issue is that the router is quite dated.

It’s using 802.11n wireless technology, many many devices (most likely yours) are and have been using the new tech 802.11ac wireless. Which is much faster/reliable/etc.
Also your router only has one band, 2.4GHz which is often congested and slower older devices use this band. Newer devices use the 5GHz band which is faster, and new routers have dual band technology, which allows simultaneous use.

I highly recommend an upgrade. You and your wireless devices will appreciate the investment.

Edit: for $100 you can invest in this and that baby is sure to last you.
If that’s too much I can try to recommend something cheaper but you get what you pay for and I think that’s reasonable.

Any questions feel free to ask!

u/pokeman7452 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

A device that does everything won't do it well. If you want maximum performance get a dedicated router.

u/doomjuice · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd say the TP-Link Archer C7 or the ASUS RT-N66U should do the trick. If you want to go nutty there's always the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and UniFi AP AC Lite, but this setup isn't as plug-and-play as the first two.

u/dm_reck · 5 pointsr/CoDCompetitive

Very nicely done /u/drift0r. Way to keep it simple enough for the average person to understand.

What I really would like to know is what would be the benefit of getting an expensive router such as Netgear's Nighthawk AC1900 vs. the standard router/modem that comcast provides me with already? Is this where QoS becomes a huge defining factor or is that router just so expensive because of the power and range it offers for the wireless signal?

EDIT: Basically, is the nighthawk worth even considering or any "gaming" routers for that matter?

u/notebad · 5 pointsr/GameDeals

My experience with the Steam Link:

It works decently after upgrading from my old WRT54g router (which was unplayable) to a TP-LINK Archer C9.

Although when I say "decently", I'm not one who freaks out if FPS drops to 59 at 1920x1080, or even has to play at that resolution. It's playable. Sometimes it slows down. You can stream Netflix from your browser, sometimes the video goes into slow motion during scenes that have more "action", i.e. a woman jogging... (I haven't even watched something like Transformers...) depending on your Stream setting of Fast, Balanced, Beautiful.

It's nice when it works, most of the time. Sometimes it still drops the connection though, or the window loses focus, or you have to log in to Windows, and you have to physically go to the computer and figure it out, which can be frustrating.

Most of the time I've had to go over physically was because Steam crashed and I had to restart Steam. Hopefully these are bugs they'll be working out as it's still a relatively new device? Between this and the controller, they seem to get regular updates. And things HAVE been getting fixed and enhanced. But apparently it can't start Steam up on it's own over the network, or let you log in to Windows.

It worked plug & play with my Logitech Wireless Touch Keyboard K400 (plugging the little Logitech wireless receiver)

u/underscorecounter · 5 pointsr/buildapc

This is what I have. I absolutely love it and for $100 it works great. It's definitely getting a bit older now but its range is great. It has crazy distance IMO.

u/captainguinness · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

Tired of renting our router from Xfinity. Would this be a good purchase?

NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) - AC1750 Wireless Speed (up to 1750 Mbps) | Up to 1500 sq ft Coverage & 25 Devices | 4 x 1G Ethernet and 1 x 3.0 USB ports | Armor Security

Edit: thanks y'all I love this subreddit

u/Ganondorf_Is_God · 5 pointsr/dragonballfighterz

You're not going to have any issues if you're on 5ghz with a wireless N or AC router. They aren't even expensive.

A wireless AC router is just as good as plugging in an ethernet cable and should get you gigabit speeds.

The only caveat is the original PS4 doesn't support 5ghz iirc. The slim and the new one do though and every model of the Xbox One does.

EDIT: I also posted more info in this post too but some ignoramus' (including OP) just downvoted it out of sheer ignorance.

EDIT 2: Here's a link to a great and affordable gigabit wireless AC router. Only 90 bucks. ASUS makes one for about 65 that's almost as good (shittier management interface/options).

u/TheEdMain · 5 pointsr/homelab

Probably the best bet would be to find a tiny travel router that runs DD-WRT/OpenWRT and put that in between the internet and the iDRAC. Something like this would be a possibility. Then connect to it with a VPN tunnel before connecting to your iDRAC.

u/windrip · 5 pointsr/skycoin

I recently built a four-board Orange PI DIY Skyminer in order to share a way to create a miner without the need to do any of the electrical wiring or flashing OpenWRT to a router. Hopefully this provides the community with some ideas on ways to easily setup a miner!

Here are the supplies used:

Orange PI Prime Boards

Using the Orange PI Prime boards makes sense for beginners since most of the community is using these boards and thus there are a lot of community members who can assist with issues when installing the software on Linux. Additionally, the Skycoin team will be releasing an image with the software preinstalled that can be easily flashed onto Orange PI boards.

Power Adapter (US Version)

Power Adapter (EU Version)

Micro SD Cards

You will want to use fast Class 10 Micro SD cards. 16 GB is what the official miners come with.

LAN Cables

You can use any short Cat 6 Ethernet cables. I used these from the parts list that has floated around and got some in both 15cm and 25cm lengths.


Any Orange PI cases would work but these are the ones I used.


This cheap switch can handle up to 7 devices, not including the incoming connection from the router. If you might expand to 8 boards in your Skyminer, use a 8+1 port switch like the one referenced in other parts lists.

Power-Adapter-Compatible Surge Protector

This surge protector can support up to 6 bulky power adapters at a time plus additional standard plugs.

GL-MT300N-V2 Mini Router (300 Mbps) with OpenWRT Preinstalled

This mini-router is limited to 300 Mbps but comes with OpenWRT preinstalled and is likely sufficient for home users in many parts of the world where bandwidth is capped at low speeds. In the long term, this bandwidth would not be sufficient for running a Skyminer attached to an antenna, but it gives you time to flash OpenWRT on a gigabit router while still participating in the Testnet via an OpenWRT router.

Power Adapter for Router

The MT300N requires a 5V/1A power supply, so most USB adapters should work.


Another reason to consider getting individual cases and power adapters is that FPGA miners and official miners with more than 8 boards are being worked on, and when they are released, a lot of the first-gen equipment will not be as useful for running Skywire. When that happens, I will probably use this initial equipment for other purposes or give some boards to friends/family for them to use for various purposes, and everything is in place from the start to make that transition very easy.

One downside to using the Orange PI boards is that they are in high demand due to the Skywire rollout, so backorders are common and it might be a month or more before you receive the boards. Personally, I feel there are several benefits to using the Orange PIs which I mentioned above, but you would probably receive other boards such as Raspberry PIs quicker. Other users have put together guides for those boards as well, such as this thread on Skywug, so you do have several options.

I hope this simple DIY setup helps the community!

u/RoboTicks · 5 pointsr/Chattanooga

The internet provided by the property owners is just public Wi-Fi. If you want to have your own private router, you need to purchase your own private internet connection. Contact EPB. It's $54.99/mo for a 300Mbps up/down connection.

You'll want a router like this one: (Actually - just buy that one)

Source: Live(d) in Wise Properties (2 different buildings) and have/had EPB in both of them.

u/BuddyPal200 · 5 pointsr/AskSF

I have Webpass and love it. You can use wifi which will give you about 500mb/s but a wired connection will get you up to 1gb/s.

Your "phone jack"/"cable jack" should be the same, its just an ethernet jack. The webpass technician can explain all this and help you get set up.

You'll need to buy the router yourself,
this is the one I use but just search around on Amazon if that one doesn't work for you.

u/Bobsagetluvr · 5 pointsr/techsupport

The TP-LINK Archer C5 is a good cheap router.

If you have more in your budget, I'd go with the C7

And then, even better (imo) but more expensive, the Asus AC68U

u/kdayel · 5 pointsr/sysadmin

You couldn't find the EdgeRouter Lite anywhere at MSRP?

$7 below MSRP, and Prime shipping. You mustn't have been looking very hard.

u/SanDiegoPics · 5 pointsr/sandiego

Plug your computer straight into the modem and do a speed test. Write down whatever speed you got and then test the speed over your wi-fi. If there is a large difference you are having issues with your wireless connection. Quite a few things can cause problems with wifi especially if you live a high density area. There are a few phone apps that will actually find open wifi channels that aren't being used by your neighbor and after you find one you can set your router to that channel manually. In addition to that Cox often has problems with their DNS servers so I tend to use googles (

Edit: There's a lot of information in the paragraph so please feel free to pick my brain with any questions.

Double Edit: I would definitely bite the bullet and buy your own router if you are trying to play games and stream stuff. 100 bucks nowadays gets you a do everything router with a 5ghz connection instead of 2.4 which is a lot better for streaming and online games. This is a good example

u/braxxytaxi · 5 pointsr/techsupport

You might want to check if you can run multiple devices off your connection as they may only provide you with one IP address (similar to a normal home service from an ISP).

In this case you will need a router to connect up all your devices. Any standard home router will do the trick. I use an ASUS RT N66U - 4 wired gigabit ports, 802.11n Wi-Fi and it's nice and speedy with my 100mbit WAN connection. $129.99 @ Amazon.

However if your uni/college allows for multiple devices per room (ie, they provide you with multiple IP addresses) you will be able to get away with using an ethernet switch. As mentioned in other comments, opt a model with faster Gigabit ports as nowadays there is really no big price difference and the extra bandwidth could come in handy one day. A basic 5-port TP-Link Gigabit switch is $19.99 @ Amazon (or you can get an 8-port model for $24.99 @ Amazon).

Don't get a hub. I honestly haven't seen one on sale for years anyway, good luck trying to track one down!

u/MaybeImNaked · 5 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

So the first thing you should decide is what type of internet to get. The vast majority of people get cable or fiber (if they can afford it and if it's available). Both of those options give you good reliable internet. The cheap option is to get DSL which works over telephone lines. DSL usually has low speeds and isn't as reliable but only costs like $30 a month compared to $60-100 for better internet. If you like to stream movies or do anything outside of very basic browsing, I would say to get cable if you can afford it. What you do then is find a provider for that internet (internet service provider - ISP). Comcast, Cox, AT&T, Verizon, and many local companies are ISPs but you're probably limited to only one or two in whatever region you live (assuming USA). You should also know that these companies have random naming conventions for their services (Comcast calls their cable Xfinity while AT&T calls theirs Uverse) So you go to their web sites and compare plans and find something that works for you (if you don't know what speed you need, I would recommend 20 Mbps or more for streaming and normal use, 50 Mbps if you're a really heavy user). You can use this to find out what providers even have wiring in your area (if the top speed for a certain provider only shows as 10-25 mbps, then it's likely only DSL).

If you go with cable, you'll need both a modem (which receives the internet connection from the cable built into your apartment) and a router (which takes that wired connection and turns it into wireless - wifi). I would recommend buying your own hardware because companies like Comcast charge you something like $7-10 a month per modem/router that you get from them, which ends up being more expensive than buying your own to start with. If you buy your own modem, make sure it will work with whatever cable provider you select (something like this is standard). After that, you hook up your router. There are many to choose from. You can get one for as little as $10-30, but I would recommend getting a better one like this if you can as it performs exceptionally well and is easy to set up as well.

If you have any specific questions, let me know.

u/hi_lampworking · 5 pointsr/baltimore

Don't keep your wifi bound to their shitty equipment.

Do a hard-wired connection from their shitty modem to a better wifi router like this ASUS model. We use these at work and their range is pretty awesome. We went from needing four routers in the building to only needing two.

u/dirk150 · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Do note, business/prosumer class routers are routers alone. They don't provide WiFi. As for your Edit two posts above, that's not SQM, that's just their branding of QoS. If a consumer router has SQM it'll be a tad bit more expensive, $200+ since it's going to be marketed toward gamer types, and that commands a premium.

The Edgerouter X is well-loved here because it's a cheap ($50 compared to Cisco's $300+), small, business router that can handle 1 Gbps one way. There's SQM on it, you can isolate guest networks with it, consumes 5 Watts at max load, is metal, and is more configurable than all the consumer routers.

If you choose to get one of these wired-only routers, you can plug in your wireless router, set it to AP mode, and it'll do its WiFi thing, transmitting data to the wired-only router to be routed.

u/xplusyequalsz · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Lesson learned. Best Buy/Geek Squad = idiots.



Wireless Access Point

If you have a small-medium house you only need 1 access point. You can get any router you want, go cheaper if you want. If you're mainly going to be on WiFi I highly suggest the Ubiquiti AC-lite.

u/nerdburg · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Buy an Arris SB6183(Get the extended warranty for $3) and a TP-Link router.


u/Jhubbz86 · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

How does the Archer C7 compare against the ASUS RT-ARCH13? I don't know a whole lot about wireless routers, and I'm looking to buy a good one soon. It would be in a 1,000 sft apartment.

u/joeboo5150 · 5 pointsr/kansascity

Using the modem supplied by google is fine as the front-line router handling any wired connections. But do NOT use it's wifi, you need a separate router because that modems wifi is terrible.

I am personally a fan of ASUS wireless routers, but there's nothing wrong with the usual big names like Netgear or Linksys or whoever. All are easy to use and fine for typical home use.

I use an older version of this:

And it works great

All you really have to do is set your google fiber modem's wifi to OFF in the web-based settings. Then you just run an ethernet cable from the google modem(any ethernet port) to your new wifi router.

Now, the instructions for your wifi router will typically tell you to use the 1 designated ethernet port that is labeled as "uplink" or "internet", but I actually had issues with that on several different routers and just plugged straight into a standard ethernet port(your wireless router will likely have 4+ ports to choose from) and it worked much, much better.

That was the one small quirk compared to how I used to have my Time Warner service setup, using a wireless routers uplink port always worked flawlessly using cable, but not so much with Google Fiber, just use a standard ethernet port for chaining the 2 boxes together.

u/julietscause · 5 pointsr/sysadmin

I would agree with r/sscx however if you need the device to support wireless connections then I would look at something like this

The general consensus over at r/pfsense is to leave wifi out of pfsense

Do you know if your users are going to have to be dealing with guest portals? That would be one of the biggest challenges for any kind of compact wifi router, the device I posted above can do it however when it comes to guest portals you have to do some leg work to get it working

u/SithLordThalix · 4 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Likely your ISP restricts you to one DHCP IP address, if you successfully connect a unifi straight into a modem you will pull public IP addresses for all your connected devices, from my work with Unifi AP's you need to place them after a router. Your setup needs to go modem>router>unifi

Without a router there is not NAT, also there is no firewall to secure the network either. I would couple it with a ER-X, cheap and powerful UBNT router. Use the built in setup wizard and you're done.

u/thisisnttheusername · 4 pointsr/livesound

I had a spare Apple router laying around. Haven't had issues at 30-40ft or so. WiFi is a tricky business, because no matter where you go, the environment will always be different for WiFi channels.

A lot of places are broadcasting on 2.4g or 5g. So having a router/ap that does both is probably your best bet for flexibility.

If you're wanting something simple and cheap, just look at some basic home routers like Linksys (

If you are willing to do a bit more pre-setup (one-time) and have a greater throw for your WiFi, I would suggest an ubiquiti edgerouter and Ubiquiti long range access point (
That'll get you DHCP and a longer distance than most retail routers.

If you need any more suggestions or have questions, let me know. I'm a certified network engineer.

Edit: the reason I like ubiquiti is because it scans the current environment for wifi channel conflicts and makes the appropriate adjustments.

u/DarkSyzygy · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I've seen two people suggest ubiquiti, and I would also as well. Thought some links might help you get an idea of what to look for. Usual disclaimers that I'm not suggesting that you get the specific equipment here, or even that this is the best setup I could've gotten. Do you're own research etc.

In my home setup I have:

u/siriuspunk · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Actually swapped out a TP-Link Archer C8 for this.... and so happy I did. Best router I've owned in long time. We cut the cord also and we do a lot of gaming and TV streaming (mutliple devices) at same time and it handles the bandwith brilliantly. Good luck in your search.

P.S. We are also in a large 2 story house and coverage is excellent throughout.

u/trich_ · 4 pointsr/wyzecam

was thinking of broadcasting my own network with a travel router in the room, like this hoo too one.

Essentially setting up the authentication page and wifi from the cruise ship on the hoo too and then connecting the wyze cam to the hoo too.

u/Ottoblock · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

Here is the (camelcamelcamel)[] link.

This is also on sale at Best Buy, but the free shipping st Best Buy said that delivery would be on December 4th so I went with Amazon. I do not think that this deal is available in store because there was no "ship to store" option.

u/jpyounis1 · 4 pointsr/Fios

Figured. You can try to call back during the day and speak with a fiber engineer (if there is any due to the strike), and have them check to see if its self install ready.

Internet only you dont need their routers. The ONT is in/outside your property right? you can run a cat6 ethernet line from the ONT to your own router and be done with it. Their may be provisioning needed on VZ's end but that should be it.

My assumption would be they are defualting a tech out to not only run that line, but upgrade the ONT if its not rated for that speed.

For your own routers, i have a RT-AC68U Asus as well as many others, and its perfect. Otherwise i recommend the TP-Link archer C9 -

Both should be fine, my Asus AC68U covers my 2 story house with 5 bedrooms + basement perfectly, the router is on the 2nd floor. (moving it downstairs soon).

If you have a very large house - or old house with plaster & steel lath walls consider this - , big price but i've installed this for a few people in similar situations and it was great.

u/kpanzer · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

I haven't used this particular model but I did buy the TP-Link AC1900 (~$89.99) about 2 months ago and it's been a fantastic router.

u/Jiggajonson · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I just purchased this

In December because of my aging router and my growing number of wifi devices.

I could not be happier.

My Internet connection was always solid, but my router was holding me back. Here's a speed test from my phone from 3 rooms away:

I've yet to test in the yard but my signal stays solid enough that I haven't thought about testing.

Half of my devices are on the lower band, the other half are on 5g (streaming devices, my own phone :-)

I read a LOT of reviews before my purchase and decided to gamble on this new model based on the performance of TPLINKs cheaper routers.

I was not disappointed.

u/sonsonmcnugget · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

I use this Netgear Nighthawk. Works great for me and very affordable. There is a mobile application that makes it very easy to make changes to your network like changing your wifi name and password and managing devices connected to your network.

u/theotherdanlynch · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Forget about a card. You'll get a faster, more reliable connection with a bridge and won't need to screw around with drivers. If your router is 802.11AC, get this one for $35. If your router is 802.11N, get this one for $30. In either case, put it in "Client" mode and connect it to your computer with a short Ethernet cable. Also connect a USB cable from the computer to the bridge to power it so it'll turn on/off with your computer.

u/l3rian · 4 pointsr/googlehome

TP-Link N300 Wireless Portable Nano Travel Router - WiFi Bridge/Range Extender/Access Point/Client Modes, Mobile in Pocket(TL-WR802N)

This is what you will want. You can tell it to connect to your apartment's Wi-Fi with it and then set your own hot spot up with your own password. Put the chromecast, home and any other device you want private on there. I have one for a similar situation and it works great! 👍

u/InsaneNinja · 4 pointsr/shortcuts

Apple takes full advantage of Wifi-Direct, so you may end up not even needing to put your phone on WiFi all that often. Or just simply turn off Auto-Join.

Personally I would use a little Wi-Fi re-broadcaster with a hidden SSID. Such as this.

u/bericp1 · 4 pointsr/Chromecast

Edit: Turns out Chromecast does require not just a wifi connection to communicate with devices on the network, but also an internet connection in order to run the "apps" that handle the steaming.


Back when I was in living in my university's dorms and my roommates and I wanted to use Chromecast, we bought this TP-Link travel router ($25) to just create your own quick private wi-fi network.

If you buy that little guy (eligible for Prime), you can probably set him up at home and connect your Chromecast to it before you leave. Then you should just be able to plug them both in at the cabin, they'll reconnect to each other, and after connecting whatever device you're streaming from to the wifi network, you might be able to cast your movies. Of course, none of the connected devices will have an internet connection which may be required for certain apps/services to cast even if the content is stored offline but I can't tell you for sure which ones, if any.

Or, you can go the safest route (dare I call it "old-fashioned") and just get an HDMI adapter for your tablet. Let me know what tablet you have and I can find one that should work.

u/ctrocks · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

It goes a little above budget, but, they are both very solid devices, and recommended like crazy here.

Go with a separate router and AP. You get better placement for the access point and a router that can handle a lot more than 150MBps.

Ubiquiti AP-AC-Lite

Edgerouter Lite

If you want a not as capable, but still fast and cheaper router, Edgerouter-X

u/Trokeasaur · 4 pointsr/gadgets

I would highly recommend the Asus wireless routers. Great featureset, you can set up file sharing, guest networks, printer sharing. Super easy to do a basic set up as well.

If you want the latest and greatest in terms of the new wireless standards, this one is the way to go.

Slightly older but still will work for absolutely everything you would want to do would be this one here.

u/linkian19 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have that ASUS RT-N66U and it's been more than capable of all of my demands. I usually have around 13 devices on the network and it does well. Granted all of those devices aren't using the network at all times but the only issues I've had with any performance issues is due to poor signal (from basement to upstairs bedroom) so not really a problem in the sense that it's bad router, just my implementation. It also has a ton of features so if you want to delve deeper into networking it has a good range of extra stuff you can do if you're into that sort of thing.

I've got 100 Mbps from Comcast and whenever I have strong connection I get my full bandwidth (and then some) according to Speedtest. Looks like you'll have around 10 devices and depending on what your connection is the Asus router should be more than capable of serving all your needs. I've mine for a couple of years now and as I said earlier, no issues.

I might recommend spending a little extra and getting one that has wireless AC on it. That way whenever you upgrade devices that have AC capability you can use it and you'll be a little more "future proof."

Here's a link to basically the same router, but with AC: RT-AC66U

Another suggestion I have would be to go ahead and buy your own cable modem. This is modem I have. Since I own it I can take it with me. I don't get charged monthly to rent the modem/router combo from Comcast. You don't have to do this, but for a lot of people (including myself), it's nice being able to control your own hardware. I know that I received a new unit and not some refurbished unit that who knows how many people have used before me (this applies to routers as well).

Buying your own stuff and getting it set up is easy enough. Usually just have to call customer support or something and give what numbers they ask for. Then you're not paying extra per month to rent a modem.

Just my 2 cents on the matter. This response turned out a little longer that I thought it would, sorry 'bout that. Hope it helps.

u/sixniner · 4 pointsr/homelab

I am a noob, so listen to everyone else first. However, I can tell you what I've done:

I wanted to route all my internet traffic through a VPN tunnel. I tried this first on a DD-WRT router, but didn't have nearly enough processing power to keep up with my 60/3 mbps cable WAN.

So, I built a pfSense box with a Celeron 1037U mobo, 4 GB of RAM, and a mini ITX VESA case. Shipped cost was about $220. It has been in service for almost two years, and flawless except for a USB flash drive failure (I was running pfSense from the flash drive, and now I have an old 2.5" laptop hard drive installed instead). This setup easily handles OpenVPN AES-128 at 60/3--even without an AES-NI processor.

However, thanks almost entirely to this sub, I have caught the homelab bug and am expanding my network. I needed more ports, and started looking for something:

  • Fanless (it's dusty here)
  • 4 NICs
  • Low power
  • Embedded/internal storage

    So I picked up a Netgate RCC-VE 2440 and loaded pfSense on it myself. About $350. This blog post was extremely helpful.

    As for wireless access points, I'm using an Asus RT-AC66U with DD-WRT. It has been awesome! I briefly considered adding wireless capability to the 2440, but I wanted 802.11ac and I like being able to put the AP somewhere other than where the pfSense box is.

    For what you've described, you could save $75 and get the RCC-DFF-2220, or build a box yourself. Also, check in with the awesome peeps at /r/pfsense.
u/mcowger · 4 pointsr/techsnap

Skip all the consumer crap including that TP-link and the wdr3400 and dd-wrt. <-access point. < router

Get something that will last for as long as you want, is enterprise class, very slightly more expensive but significantly more reliable, expandable, more performance and better documented/supported.

u/aimless_ly · 4 pointsr/Seattle

Pretty damn close, Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite ( Bonus: the router doesn't crash and spontaneously reboot or randomly stop routing IPv6 traffic like the Clink Technicolor piece of junk.

u/ste5ers · 4 pointsr/homelab

Go with an EdgeRouter Lite and save the hassle. You can use the existing linksys as an AP, or pick up an UniFi for around 70 for N.

u/praetor- · 4 pointsr/HomeServer

I'd suggest replacing it with a DD-WRT capable router. This will support hairpinning and you can knock that rental fee off of your bill.

Edit: If you want to really go all-out, pick up an EdgeRouter Lite and a UniFi Access Point. This setup will do hairpinning out of the box

u/turntobeer · 4 pointsr/buildapc

You could also use a router with a repeater function and just run Ethernet from the router to your comp. Using this method, you could position the router anywhere in the room you needed it, including high up on a wall.

I used 2 of these in upstairs windows to get my in-laws on our home network, so they could access our movies.

u/cantseetheocean · 4 pointsr/Calgary

Buy this:
And put the crappy hitron modem in bridge mode.

u/YouAreSalty · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I highly recommend a router that supports third party firmware based on open source Linux/WRT routers. Why?

Because no matter how good your hardware is, if the software sucks it will perform badly under pressure. Average hardware with great software will yield great results. Most software made by the router companies suck, because it isn't tested properly and is often just slightly tailored for each model. They dont' put a lot of effort into it, because that is not what a consumer sees when they buy one (unless you are business user buying business class routers).

For a $100, I recommend this slightly older router that I use myself that comes with WRT software directly from the manufacturer (less setup and easier for you!):

u/Jaymesned · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

4 people streaming regularly on a $40 router is probably asking for reboots and slowdowns. I don't own any of the routers on this review site, but you might want to look that over. Their pick for best cheap router is the TP-LINK TL-WDR3600

You have to think of routers like little computers that literally route network signals to each of your devices within your home. Just like a computer, the cheaper routers have slower processors and less RAM, which can slow things down pretty quickly when multiple people are doing bandwidth-intensive things like streaming.

I'd seriously consider upping your budget if you want a smooth streaming experience in your house.

Personally, I have a ASUS RT-N66U and it's an amazing router, and I've never had a single issue with it, but it's well above your price range.

u/brokemember · 4 pointsr/perktv

I personally find the ASUS RT-N66U to be an excellent router.

You can sometimes find it for as low as 100-105.

The most important question is how much stress do you actually need to put on the router.

As in:

How many devices?

Are they primarily using 2.4 or 5GHz

Are they b/g/n or ac (ac is highly unlikely since its so new). This router does not support ac...though i wouldn't be too concerned with that for at least another 2 years or so.

In all honesty most routers under $40-50 can handle most Perk needs — as well as your other household devices.

Though I always say, its better to spend some more now...than later.

u/theNikolai · 4 pointsr/Stadia

Get this it's a very cheap but extremely helpful yellow thing.

u/bobbypotluck · 4 pointsr/blackfriday

Amazon price matched this

u/mayutte · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

$179.99 on

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Smart WiFi Router (R7000)

u/HostoftheHungarians · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This ASUS is right in your price range, and has all the great QOS and scheduling tools you've heard about. But if you're already paying for a premium router, please go for the AC-876. I can easily get 4 floors and 400 ft of range out of it with 2.4 GHz N band 300 Mbps coverage, and at least 200 ft of 5 GHz at least 1200 Mpbs AC band (my AC devices can only do 1.2 Gbps AC, but it's rated higher). This is a future proofing router than you should easily get 5+ years of use out of. You can also probably find a better price through another vendor, this is just the quickest link I found. I've seen them for closer to $200, but never sub.

u/fly3rs18 · 4 pointsr/PS4

Just search for the best AC routers. I am not familiar with OpenNAT or why you need it, but aside from that a typical AC router would get the job done for all of the thing you want to do. Your actual internet service may hold you back, but the router shouldn't.

As for the wireless range, try to run an ethernet cable to get the router closer to the middle of your house. That will be far cheaper than getting a more powerful router.

something like this will be more than enough to get the job done. You could definitely spend less if you wanted though.

u/Exfiltrate · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The Edgerouter Lite is quite a popular choice capable of handling Gigabit speeds.

If you don't have wireless APs, also grab one or two of the AP-AC Lites.

u/SometimesIDoThings · 4 pointsr/PleX

That would be better for sure, add one of these and you'll be good to go. Or save some money and get the lite version.

And then to really get a nice SOHO network going add an Edgerouter to replace that C7

u/FunctionalBlackbird · 4 pointsr/CanadianBroadband

You're better off buying your own router and access point (preferably two discrete devices). The combo devices (modem/router/AP) provided by ISPs are typically disposable low-quality junk that they can afford to buy by the hundreds of thousands, and toss in the trash when they break.

From a security standpoint, it is "best practice" to have your own router and relegate the ISP modem/router to "bridge mode" (where it is acting as only a modem, with the firewall functions disabled). The HH3000 is Bell's device, managed by Bell. By plugging things into it, Bell gets to see what your home LAN consists of. With everything connected to your own router/firewall device, Bell doesn't get to see all of the other devices that live in your home LAN.

Put your router somewhere where it's easily accessible (for inspection of lights, troubleshooting, resets, etc). Put the access point in a central location in the household, and run a cable to it. If coverage is inadequate, considering buying a second AP and placing it in the dead/weak signal zone.

Run cables to as many non-mobile devices as possible; TVs, streaming media boxes, game consoles, etc. Save your wifi bands for mobile devices that actually need wifi (ie. laptops, tablets, phones), and put them on the 5GHz (not 2.4GHz) band.

A pair of dedicated appliances like the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter Lite and AP AC Lite will give you more flexibility and better coverage than any ISP combo device.

u/PM_ME__YOUR__FEARS · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Have you done a WiFi survey using a mobile app or something? (some are free and they use your phone's antenna)

If your WiFi isn't too crowded (or at least if you can find a frequency that isn't overrun in your apartment) a standard WiFi network should have no problem here even for online gaming.

Just make sure you have a solid router; I'm a big fan of the R7000 because of it's custom firmware compatibility, but whatever floats your boat.

u/ceresia · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Running in passthrough or AP mode will be less strain on the device, so ultimately it shouldn't bother you. I've run $20 wireless routers as passthrough devices and not had issues.

You seem to have money to burn, looking at that pfsense setup, so why not grab a very nice wireless router? I run THIS at home and I know there are newer ones out now, but it's a beast.

Good luck with the electricity bills on that home built pfsense :/

u/MassOrbit · 3 pointsr/torrents

Are you using the wireless part of that combo? Their modem combo is your problem. What is the model number of your modem combo? Get this ARRIS-SURFboard-SB6190 and the NETGEAR Nighthawk and your troubles will end

u/RichardBLine · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

In my house, I use this Netgear router, and it work great:

My house is about 2900 square and it covers the whole house without any issues.

u/slayerbrk · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I swapped my modem for a Motorola Surfboard and got a Netgear router haven't had any issues with the setup.

Note that I pay for the fastest internet spectrum offers amd plan to upgrade to fiber when spectrums competitor in my area lays the lines so my setup is a tad overkill.

u/anteedum · 3 pointsr/frontierfios

I had Frontier (Verizon at the time) provision ethernet. So I have straight ethernet from the ONT.

Currently using an this router and so far its worked well for me.

u/mmlzz · 3 pointsr/chartercable

I like the Asus RT-AC68U

It has good range and I like the firmware.

For mesh the orbi from Netgear is pretty good.

u/drmacinyasha · 3 pointsr/verizon

Like /u/WindAeris mentioned, the T-Mobile Test Drive is a great way to get a real-world idea of what their service is like.

They do put a $700 hold on your card, so make sure whatever card number you give them can take that. The iPhone 5S they give you has unlimited minutes, texts, and unthrottled data so you can then run around and test the network to your heart's content, then return the phone to any T-Mobile retail store on the last day. Once you return it, and the store determines that it's not damaged, the hold is removed from your card and that's it.

Also, if you're frequently at areas that have good Wi-Fi networks, T-Mobile has Wi-Fi calling and texting on iOS 8 and almost all of their Android phones. Devices which also support VoLTE (iPhone 6 and a handful of Androids) can do seamless handoff between Wi-Fi and VoLTE calls without dropping the call.

If service is so-so in your home, you can get a free signal booster from them which'll strengthen their 3G, 4G, and LTE signals ($25 deposit after September 24^th), or you can get what's basically a ASUS RT-AC68U (a seriously kick-ass 802.11ac dual-band router) optimized for Wi-Fi calling for a $25 deposit (though you have to return it if you ever leave T-Mo) or $99 outright from T-Mobile if you're on a prepaid or a no credit check plan.

u/croy_00 · 3 pointsr/theNvidiaShield

This is what I am running at home, and it works flawlessly. I own both the portable and the Shield, and use both with this router without issue.

I am also running a wireless PCE-AC68 card from my PC, instead of wired, but again have zero issues.

u/KCBassCadet · 3 pointsr/iRacing

You don’t need to jack with QoS, I’ve never touched that in my life.

Do yourself a favor and go buy an Asus router like this one and you won’t need to screw around with any settings. Unbox, plug it in, race. Do NOT waste time with budget routers, stay away from Netgear and Linksys.

u/ThunderSizzle · 3 pointsr/Chattanooga

Also to clarify, if you know you'll be using a router for any prolonged period at time (e.g. more than a month or two in your near-future life), then you should invest in buying the router yourself, rather than renting it. You can obviously get a higher-end router, or a lower-end router, and both will be sufficient for 1Gbps transfers (just check the stats first. 1000Mbps = 1Gbps). Either way, even with an insane router, you'll probably pay it off inside a year (in terms of EPB). If you need help setting it up, ask around, offer some beers to a tech friend/acquaintance to set it up and show you anything you might need to know.

This is my router, which is obviously one of the pricier ones, but this specific one is "paid off" inside 7 months.

From initial glancing, this router would also be sufficient, and would be "paid off" inside 3 months.

Also, the main reason to rent would be that the monthly payment is cheaper in the long run - e.g. you replace the router every 1-2 years or something - but that's not going to happen. The monthly payment will rarely be cheaper in the long run. Routers will last multiple years even outside of warranty. And they don't have the upgrade cycle of a phone. And you'll rarely, if ever, need to "turn it off and turn it on" like those old blue Linksys routers. Those sucked.

u/n_ct · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

The easiest route I would recommend is buying a WiFi router that can run a VPN Server on it. If you bought a consumer grade router it might support it already. (Most ISP provided routers don’t) My parents use this option on their network. You’ll need to open up specific ports on your router and setup a DDNS domain name. Hit me up if you have any questions about the process.


u/tagey · 3 pointsr/PS4

Well, for starters it is Christmas Weekend, so people are probably downloading their games, patches, etc - so it's bogging Sony's servers a bit. The other piece of the puzzle is that the wireless card inside the PS4 is crap. However, I did see that you said you're hardwired, so first and foremost, try restarting your modem/router. If that doesn't fix it, try unplugging it and leaving it unplugged for 10 - 20 seconds, so that it can refresh itself. If that doesn't work, then you'll want to look into getting a new router/modem. However, because you're with Xfinity I can already tell you, they will give you a modem for $X/mo, and then you can just get a router. My suggestion, if you have lots of people using the internet, or you just want to buy to not have to buy every 2 years try this - I have been a loyal customer for ASUS for the last 7 or so years and I love their products.

u/ttustudent · 3 pointsr/SantaFe

Surfboard Modem with Docsis e
3 ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 Modem 16x4 Docsis 3.0 Cable Modem- Retail Packaging- White

And a fancy Asus router ASUS AC1900 WiFi Dual-band 3x3 Gigabit Wireless Router with AiProtection Network Security Powered by Trend Micro, AiMesh Whole Home WiFi System Compatible (RT-AC68U)

u/CivilatWork · 3 pointsr/news

The Motorola SB modems are great! I can confirm they work for both Comcast and TWC. (Parents have comcast and a 6121, I have TWC and have used a 6141 and 6183). Here are a few links to them:



For routers I use an Asus RT68CU, but I have a lot going on in my apartment. You could get away using any name brand, cheaper one really.

u/BirdsNoSkill · 3 pointsr/PS4

I have this. My nephew bought his PS4 over and everything works perfectly out of the box zero issues. Played AW together no problems.

u/Anxiety_Advice_Giver · 3 pointsr/RBI

I am using this router. I will hop on tonight and see if I can find out how much data people are using.

Do you know how to block BitTorrent? Google gave me the Port ID. Would that help at all?

u/szimmerm · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Is this deal from /r/buildapcsales worth it?

u/houndazs · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I have the Asus AC68U Router paired with an Arris 6190 Modem. Blazing speeds ready for Gigabit internet. I'm a network engineer, and this is what i use.

Edit: I also game with this Asus PCIe WiFi Adapter

u/wolffstarr · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is going to be very dependent on how deep into the weeds you want to be getting with your setup. We've got one key, being "needs to do gigabit internet". Another is you seem to be looking for gigabit/AC wireless. You also mention needing an AP on the far side of the house.

Do you expect that the router will have wifi capabilities on it's own? Some of the options that I know will handle gigabit throughput don't have built-in wireless.

The "easy" answer - meaning, if you just want good stuff that works well enough and don't want to learn all there is to know about networking before you get your LAN running - is to go with Ubiquiti gear. An EdgeRouter Lite will do gigabit for your router (as long as you don't get fancy, like trying to do QoS/rate shaping) for about $90.

You would then need at least one AP to handle the wireless, for which a UAP-AC-Lite would probably work okay - that's about $80.

For getting the ball rolling, just about any 8 port "dumb" switch would do, but you can get a TP-Link TL-SG108 gigabit switch for $30 on Amazon right now. You'd almost certainly want to replace that eventually, but it won't be useless and it's a good price.

Eventually you could look at getting a 16 port Ubiquiti switch and another AP or two if you have a large area to cover, and there's options for unified configuration setups I believe.

If you really want to get snazzy, spring for the Unifi Security Gateway which is the same hardware as the EdgeRouter Lite, but works with the Unifi controller software. Get that, as many APs as you need, and a Unifi switch and you can (eventually) run a VM for your Unifi controller to configure all of it through one, locally controlled web page.

u/mr_biscuits93 · 3 pointsr/Comcast

I just went through the same situation (except I don’t need 150). BUY YOUR MODEM AND ROUTER. I’ve rented the modem/router combo from multiple ISPs over the years and they suck (poor range, internet cuts out randomly, needs constant restarts, etc). Plus it’s $132/year that you’ll never see again.

I bought a like-new router and modem from amazon, optimized the channel settings and my setup kicks 5Ghz signal to the furthest reaches of my apartment, something my previous rented modem/router combos could never do consistently.

Edit: my Setup. I saved some money by not buying brand new. The only component you really need to double check is the modem. Make sure Comcast accepts it.
ARRIS SURFboard 16x4 SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem- Retail Package- Black

NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700)

u/non_target_eh · 3 pointsr/failingupwards

This is gonna sound so lame but I upgraded my wireless router - got this one at about 50% off - my airport extreme has been fucking up lately - which sucks because I really like it. But my printer is having problems connecting to it and the firmware finally stopped updating on it.

u/timmeedski · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Ummm, nice name.

Depends how in-depth you want to go. If you really want to get into networking, Ubiquiti is a way I recommend. Otherwise, you can just go with something like the Netgear N6700.

Also, do you have TV, or just internet?

u/MeowMixSong · 3 pointsr/cordcutters

You need a portable router to log into the hotel's wifi, and repeat it to your room. They likely have AP isolation on, so each device will not be able to see, (or communicate), with each other. You're basically going to need to set up a router to reroute the hotel's wifi on your own private network. it's the same principal as repeating a public access point for use in your house. These will work for your needs:

Alfa Network 1000mW High Power Wireless G 802.11g Wi-Fi USB Adapter with 5dBi Antenna AWUS036H: $29.99 + Alfa R36 802.11 b/g/N Repeater and Range Extender for AWUS036H:$79.99

Cheaper solution: TP-Link N300 Wireless Wi-Fi Nano Travel Router with Range Extender/Access Point/Client/Bridge Modes (TL-WR802N): $27.95

u/wordyplayer · 3 pointsr/wyzecam

Yes this is the way. Same as for cruise ships.

This one would work for you. You connect this router to comcast. Then you connect a phone or pc to this router and do the Comcast login. Then connect camera to this router.

u/exonwarrior · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

I second what /u/darthgeek has said; there isn't really a way to make your Chromecast private without direct access to the router's configuration.

It's also very possible that device discovery won't be possible anyway; also most Unis I know use 801.2X authentication (basically, have to put in your uni email and a pass to connect) so the Chromecast won't work without the travel router anyway.

My friend uses this one and she says it works like a charm - notice it even says "Chromecast compatible" in the description.

u/bman87 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That should work. This is cheaper and supports Client mode which is pretty much what you would need. Connect it to your apartments WiFi in client mode, and plug the ethernet cable from it into your routers WAN interface.

u/silvernutter · 3 pointsr/ps2

There are a few things you could do. You could get a wireless bridge to convert the wifi back to an ethernet connection. If your house is relatively new you could attempt powerline networking. This would allow you to send an ethernet signal over your home's power grid to an outlet in your room.

Perhaps there is a way to turn your laptop into a wireless bridge, but I'm not aware of one, especially on Windows. I have heard of people doing such things with a raspberry pi however.

What are you looking to do with an online PS2?

u/thejawa · 3 pointsr/youtubetv

The best way to do it is to get a travel router. Chromecast doesn't have an authentication page to get you past hotel WiFi logins where you have to sign in every day. You'll likely never get the Chromecast onto the WiFi. The next hurdle is to get past HDMI input locked TVs, which there's a few tricks on the internet but the most recent hotel I was at I couldn't get around it.

Either way, a travel router is a more secure way to browse the internet while at a hotel. It was a great decision in my book and has allowed me to use my Chromecast at numerous places.

The one I got: TP-Link N300 Wireless Portable Nano Travel Router - WiFi Bridge/Range Extender/Access Point/Client Modes, Mobile in Pocket(TL-WR802N)

u/localgeek · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Something like this should do what you need, it takes a little bit of networking know how to get set up initially, but isn't super complicated. It will connect wirelessly to the campground network, then allow you to broadcast your own wifi network off of it. it is only 2.4GHz, but the smart home devices mostly are 2.4 anyway so you wouldn't notice any difference there. it also does have a LAN port you could connect a switch to if you wanted to hard wire other devices into it (or if just 1 device you could connect it direct to the LAN port)

u/ControlEngineer · 3 pointsr/PLC

tplink nano router that is the model I use

u/fedsam · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Log in to the UI of your zyxel and see if there is a wifi bridge option. if so, use that. If not, then get something like THIS which is a bridge.

u/asjmcguire · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

Yup, that means it's working as intended. Nope they don't need the Chromecast app - that's only for setting it up. The only way to achieve what you want is to have the Chromecast on it's own network that is separate to the main network - not just extending the original network. This means that you require a router that gives out DHCP addresses and uses the original network as it's backhaul internet connection. A router like this: would do the job. You connect it in Hotspot mode and tell it to use the existing wireless network or it's internet connection.

u/KooshOveride · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking
u/oldpueblo · 3 pointsr/sonos

You can buy your own access point and connect it via wireless to the existing router/access point. When I take my Sonos gear to remote places for events I use this little guy to manage it.

Now whether or not someone higher up the network chain can still see your speakers, I don't know. You could also go into the speaker settings and disable wireless, then run ethernet to them from a small switch that connects to that device. Not sure if that'd keep them isolated or not, I'll see if I can replicate that and let you know. Then your phone could just connect to your own hotspot then upstream to the other wifi. It's another hop, but maybe you don't care when it comes to your phone. Alternatively get a similar device with better Wi-Fi speeds, just know that Sonos will only use the "older protocols".

u/PM-ME-D_CK-PICS · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

$68 on Amazon

> How much do they cost?

AP - $68
Ubiquiti ERX- $50

So we're at $130 for both items that perform substantially better than an all-in-one, like the AC68U which is ~$135

Why would you NOT want businesa grade equipment? It performs better, it's actually patched for vulnerabilities, and it lasts longer. For around the same price.

u/Judman13 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Getting this out of the way. USG and UAP-AC Lite. $190 from Amazon.

Or Edgerouter X and UAP-AC Lite. $130 from Amazon (rock solid reliability, but less user friendly)

You can upgrade to UAP-AC Pro is you have devices that can use its spec's. $169 for the AP from Amazon.

u/yellowfin35 · 3 pointsr/qnap

A few things come to mind, but I am no "pro".

How large is the swap file/drive for your photo editing program? You may want to make this really large so only saved projects reach back out to the network to make changes.

Why do you have wireless read/write speeds on your qnap? Plug both Ethernet cables into the router and then bind the services.

Router only supports 300mb/sec? I assume that is your ISP's down? This is likely your bottle neck, lots of ISP modem/router/wireless hot spots are cheap and have poor internal network routing. I would suggest an upgrade. Make the modem/router only a modem and if you want to go cheap, get something like an edge router lite.

I am running a TS-653a, 3x ports binded on the back and unfi networking hardware. Over a wired connection I often pull 100+mb/sec down

u/NextGen28 · 3 pointsr/milwaukee

Going to copy/paste this from my history as its asked rather frequently on this sub.

Spectrum is fine, if you can get AT&T Fiber go that route. Check to see if you're able to get Fiber here;

(Note, only their 1000/1000 speed is 'uncapped' -- the rest of their offerings, Fiber or DSL has a data cap)

For Spectrum, you're looking at:

200/10 (or) 400/20 (or) 940/35

The base tier is fine for the vast overwhelming majority of people. You'd probably know if you needed more speed than the base tier (Eg: Off site backups, serving up Plex to friends/family..etc) Spectrum also has no data caps on any of their speed tiers. You'll use a Spectrum modem (which they provide for free) but use your own router as they do charge a monthly fee for wifi. As far as what networking gear to get, that's easy.

Get yourself +

and have worry free wifi. Don't bother with routers from Asus/Netgear/TpLink..etc. They're comparatively junk next to the ubiquiti equipment.

If you're going with Spectrum, use your own Wifi infrastructure. The Ubiquiti stuff linked above is a fantastic solution. The Spectrum provided modem will work fine, regardless of the tier you subscribe to

The 400/20 tier will probably get you an Arris TM1602 which is an absolute piece of trash as it uses the Puma 6 chipset. Read more about that here;

If you do sub to the 400/20 tier, I then suggest picking up your own modem, specifically, the Netgear CM600 as it does not use the Puma 6 chipset, but rather, a Broadcom BCM3384 and is an 'approved' modem by Spectrum.

The base tier as well as the Gig tier with Spectrum will get you a satisfactory modem at no additional cost.

Milwaukee has been activated as a "Gig" market for Spectrum, and has been for 4 months or so.

This means a speed of 940/35 is now available for most--if not all of the area. The gig tier does require a $200 technician visit as well as a Spectrum provided modem. Customer owned modems are currently not being provisioned for the gig tier. The Spectrum modem is a Technicolor TC4400, but there is no monthly charge for using the Spectrum provided modem.

u/cosmos7 · 3 pointsr/homelab

Ubiquiti APs are straight-up the best you can get in that price range, as well as ranges above it. I've found that a single AC-Pro will be able to provide the same coverage that two lesser APs could when properly located.

If you like the Unifi control plane then yes the USG and switches make sense, although you will pay for it. Personally I like the greater control and flexibility of something like the EdgeRouter line, and the ER-X just rocks for smaller installations due to the price.

u/fdjsakl · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You can either get a router that works with openWRT and install a bandwidth monitor such as wrtbwmon on it, or get a router such as an edgerouter that also has the capabilities to do bw monitoring.

u/km_irl · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> Ubiquiti Edgerouter X

I had no idea these things were so cheap. However if you want to do gigabit Internet it's not up to the task according to some reviews I've read. Still, I'm sure it's fine for 95% or more of home users and I would not hesitate to buy one if I were in the market.

u/back_like_woa · 3 pointsr/perktv

consumer grade routers are garbage for perk and beermoney stuff. look into something like this:

and for an access point, something like this:

anything consumer grade is really garbage for perk and things that need a router with more processing power. many of the expensive routers barely have any memory (64mb) yet spout nonsense like 'dual core processor at 1ghz!!'.

means shit if you only have 64mb of ram to work with.

the router i listed has 256mb, and if you need something more, there is an upgraded version of it that has 512.

u/nanoo_nanoo · 3 pointsr/baltimore

uh... what? Are we even looking at the same link? The Nighthawk AC1750 is an excellent middle-of-the-road router for regular consumer use, and the Amazon listing I linked you to has 21k reviews with a 4-star average. 70% of the reviews are 5-star reviews.

Edit: I see. Apparently they are starting to ship the R6700v2 instead of the R6700. Hmm. I don't really know what to tell you do about that. The Nighthawk has been pretty widely regarded as the top consumer-grade router for the last couple of years. I'd be shocked if the v2 trashed that, but it's not out of the question. You could always spend more and get the R7000, which is a great device, or spend less and get the R6230, which is a perfectly serviceable device that most consumers won't max out anyway. Are any of these the v2 device? I have no idea. Amazon has an awesome return policy though.

Edit2: Another reviewer recommends this as an alternative in the same price range:

u/deal_with_it99 · 3 pointsr/cedarrapids

Here you go.:

My Speed test Result - Download 158.28 Mbps - Upload 28.88 Mbps - Ping 24 Ms. What's yours? #SpeedSmart #speedtest

My Speed test Result - Download 192.55 Mbps - Upload 31.59 Mbps - Ping 29 Ms. What's yours? #SpeedSmart #speedtest

My Speed test Result - Download 168.38 Mbps - Upload 31.72 Mbps - Ping 26 Ms. What's yours? #SpeedSmart #speedtest

Depending on server location I can be as fast as 220 down and 30 up

I pay for 200 Mbps connection about $85/mo. I usemy own equipment, including modem. That using 5GHz wireless. It's faster when networked.

NETGEAR CM500-1AZNAS (16x4) DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem, Max download speeds of 686Mbps, Certified for Xfinity from Comcast, Spectrum, Cox, Cablevision & more

NETGEAR Smart WiFi Router with Dual Band Gigabit for Amazon Echo/Alexa - AC1750 (R6400-100NAS)

I won't use Mediacom provided equipment.

Never hit the 2TB cap. Not even close. We stream exclusively and game. Even when the kids are home on holiday.

u/Eating-Cereal · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I use the Netgear CM400 Modem , it is "approved" by Comcast and easy to set up. Then I use the Netgear R6400 as my router. Both very easy to setup and I get much better speeds now and my network doesn't stop once a week like it used to.

u/JoeTony6 · 3 pointsr/personalfinance

I believe I have the same with Comcast and absolutely zero issues.

I splurged a little on my router though and got this -

u/sumthingcool · 3 pointsr/chromeos

Holy crap that is ancient tech. Why are they even still making those, N came out 8 years ago. That was not a very good AP in it's prime even. I would highly suggest getting an AP with 802.11ac but even an 802.11n AP would be a dramatic improvement. This is a good one for $60:

u/CogitoNM · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Just saying, but most likely your modem, and thus your router, got a spike when the lightning hit because it came in through the cable lines, thus dodging your surge protector.

To fix this, I'd get a router that doesn't cost $20, though that's a good modem. Something like this might be more to your needs. If your router is borked, you will need to replace it. Try updating firmware and whatnot, maybe try DD-WRT firmware to see if that makes a difference.

u/aMiracleAtJordanHare · 3 pointsr/CFBOffTopic

Thanks! I'm not familiar with TP-Link. I think their entry one would be plenty for me, but I'm worried by multiple reviews saying it died after 5-8 months. You've been happy with their quality?

u/spid3rfly · 3 pointsr/Louisville

I'm not sure how tech-oriented you are but ditch their equipment. Every time I move, the techs are always confused because I want my own router/modem.

I upgraded a few years ago to this router. I thought it was weird that Asus was making routers but I took the chance. I love it!

A lot of people complain about Insight > TWC > Spectrum > and who knows if it'll change again, but I've honestly never had any serious issues with them aside from middle of the night maintenance.

Not all but I think most of the complaints about their service come from people that rely on their equipment instead of buying their own. Note: I've also seen a post where people have had issues with Spectrum and their own equipment. It could be something on their side with the line. It's not too difficult to make them send someone to check the line and/or replace it. One of my friends needed this very thing and had me call... I called and they had a tech out the next day to check the line signal.

u/soniclegend44 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Honestly even though overkill, purchasing a higher end router (example: is normally a good idea just for more features. Like MU-MIMO or Beam-forming tech. I personally use a AC1900 rated router for 75 10 internet.

u/nomnommish · 3 pointsr/answers

First things first - the cable modem and the wifi router are two completely separate things. In your specific case, the two things are integrated in one device - but I highly recommend not doing so.

Comcast charges a ridiculous amount of money for the "modem rental". Are you renting your modem/router from Comcast? If so, I highly recommend buying your own cable modem and wifi router. You will recoup the cost in just a few months from the rental savings. I'm saying this from personal experience - after spending 3 times the cost of the modem for just the rental fees.

The cable modem is a device which connects to your Comcast cable and lets you connect your other home devices to the modem. Even the cheapest most basic DOCSIS3 modem will support speeds that far surpass the actual internet speed you will buy from Comcast - and these are super reliable devices - so just buy the cheapest.

For example, this Arris refurbished model is available for $30. Non refurbished is $50 - although refurbished is honestly just fine. Consider that I was paying 8 bucks a month for the modem rental while I could have bought my modem outright for 30 bucks.

Now for the wifi router. This is mostly the real reason why people complain of poor internet speeds. And often this is because of poor wifi coverage to begin with - i.e. the wifi signal is simply not strong enough in all your rooms. As someone else said, the best thing you can do is to place your wifi router high up and in a central location that has the best "line of sight" to most rooms. Typically a central passageway, mounted high up on the wall. You would connect to your cable modem with an ethernet cable, by the way.

In my case, upgrading to a better more powerful wifi router with 4 antennas (from 2) made a huge difference. From my experience, I can recommend this Asus model which has 4 antennas and costs $67. There are many other models you can research and buy. It has run non-stop for over a year without requiring a reboot or without any of the flakiness I had with my other router that would randomly shut down or reboot itself. Wirecutter recommends TPLink Archer C7 which also costs $70 and they say it has really good coverage. Avoid the more expensive "802.11 AC" routers. This AC technology is great but is honestly overkill for your needs, just as you don't need to buy some expensive cable modem.

By the way, you can also download an app on your phone that will tell you how good your wifi coverage is in different parts of your house or establishment. Just search for "wifi coverage" or "wifi analyzer" in your app store. As someone also said, there are some advanced tweaks you can do. See this article, if you are so inclined.

Lastly, besides your wifi signal coverage and strength and quality of wifi router, your internet connection itself needs to be reasonably fast to support multiple users. Nowadays, everyone is streaming videos and such on their smartphones so everyone "needs" high bandwidth or fast internet. And all these multiple videos streaming quickly eat up your internet connection's bandwidth. What is interesting is that there isn't that much of a price difference between the different Comcast options. Or to put it another way, there is no $40 or $50 option at all. 25mbps is quite low to be honest - at least when multiple people hammering away at your internet. It is not horrible or anything - in fact it is perfectly decent for average home use - it is just not blazingly fast. There is a $10 difference between 25mbps and 100mbps, and a $3 jump to 200mbps. So if you don't mind the extra $13, you are in serious blazing fast territory. Consider that Netflix takes about 3-10mbps, so you can imagine that 200mbps will give you a lot of room and speed even with multiple users logged in and streaming high quality video. Else, you can start with 25mbps after you make all the other improvements to your setup, see how it goes. Then you can easily upgrade to 200mbps if needed.

u/cronson · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I bought this one used through Amazon Warehouse Deals recently and have been very impressed. Very good range. AC WiFi. Very inexpensive.

u/CuvisTheConqueror · 3 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

I don't think Android TV has a wifi tethering mode like standard Android does. Your best bet would probably be to get a travel router and attach it to your Ethernet connection, then connect your Shield and other devices to that device instead of the EDUroam wifi.

Something like this would do the trick.

u/minnesnowta · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

Two things off the top of my head:

  1. Buy a travel router like this one

  2. Buy a USB wifi dongle so your laptop has two wifi adapters, then you should be able to connect to the hotel wifi with one adapter and share the connection with the other one
u/Chess_tactician · 3 pointsr/googlehome

You could get a small travel router that can connect to a guest wifi and get you past the splash/log in page.

Then connect the Home to the travel router.

I have this one and have used it in hotels to bridge the guest wifi network.

It can be powered with a USB cable off a laptop or cellphone charger.

Hope that helps a little.

(Note - I would only connect it to the guest network.)

u/mda90 · 3 pointsr/consulting

A travel hotspot/router solves that problem! I picked up the HooToo Travel Hotspot and just plug it into ethernet, or connect that to hotel Wifi. Then connect your Chromecast to the wifi given off from the hotspot and you're good to go, just like a regular wifi network.

u/Pier28inc · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

Get a HooToo nano wifi card reader, works great in iOS. It's only $17 on Amazon too (way cheaper and works better than the Kingston wifi card reader).

u/JohnLockeNJ · 3 pointsr/jailbreak

Unfortunately with the demise of MyWi you will have to drop $22 on a HooToo TripMate Nano to do what you want

u/NedSc · 3 pointsr/kodi

The Fire TV stick can only play media that is also connected to the network. You have to connect the USB stick to something, like a NAS or your computer. Or this:

u/Esper21 · 3 pointsr/Acadiana

Correct, we do not require a modem. As far as routers go, we are compatible with just about anything. Stay away from Belkin, they are cheap but crap. Netgear, Linksys, and Cisco are good, unless you use a lot of Apple devices, then get one of their routers. Both of the Hub City Wifi routers we offer are Netgear. For personal use at home I use a Nighthawk and love it.

u/krys2015 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First thing first what speed are you actually paying for? That will determine equipment for the most part.

Best bet is to get a dumb modem and a separate router. While I can't find a proper list of approved modems, silly comcast, the Arris Surfboard always gets solid reviews, coming in at $45. It tops out at 343 Mbps download and 131 upload speeds. I've never had comcast or any dealings with them, so anyone else that does please feel free to chime in.

As for router, I've been a fan of TP Links product, so I'd recommend the TP-Link Wireless Router AC1900. It will give you 4 gig ports, its dual band, meaning both 2.4 GHz (up to 600 mbps) and 5 GHz (up to 1300mbps) for wifi, priced at $90. That will keep you under the $200 price range and give you good service.

Edit; words are hard

u/halogrand · 3 pointsr/canada

This is the one I've got. No issues, fast and reliable. Can't remember the last time I had to restart it.


May seem expensive, but for the most part you get what you pay for.

u/mrchaotica · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Don't get a combo router/modem; it unnecessarily limits your options and it's annoying when your device ends up half-broken or half-obsolete, but the whole thing has to be replaced at once.


Check the approved device list for your tier of service and buy whatever's cheapest (except that if the list still contains DOCSIS 2.0 devices for some reason, ignore those and get a modem that is at least DOCSIS 3.0). If you shop around for cable modems you'll notice that they're labeled as "MxN": M is the number of downstream channels and N is the number of upstream channels, which determines the maximum connection speed the modem supports. IMO 8x4 (which corresponds to 343 Mbps download) is the current value-for-money sweet spot; unless you plan to switch to a faster service than that within the next couple of years it's not worth paying extra for future-proofing.

The Arris/Motorola SB6141 ($40 on Amazon) is a popular choice.


If all you care about is Internet access speed (i.e., the thing that's limited by your 70 Mbps connection) then even an old 802.11N router would be good enough, let alone an AC one. If you care about transferring files and/or streaming between computers within the house, then having gigabit ethernet and 802.11 AC (and dual-band/MIMO/other buzzwords/etc.) starts to become more important.

Don't pay extra for fancy software features (security, antivirus, parental controls, etc). Instead, pick a router that is supported by open-source third-party firmware such as LEDE, which can turn even a basic router into a pseudo-"enterprise"-level device with every fancy feature you could possibly imagine. (Subject to hardware limitations, of course!) (If you decide to care about third-party firmware support, pay close attention to exactly what hardware you're getting, including the revision number. Sometimes hardware changes in ways that break compatibility without any way to tell just from reading the outside of the package.)

Also pay attention to the physical form-factor of the device (this goes for the cable modem too, by the way). If you want it to lay flat on a surface instead of standing up on its edge (or vice-versa), make sure it actually supports being used that way. For example, this piece of shit would have been a great device, except that some dipshit designed it such that it can't sit flat or hang on a wall. It's asinine!

I concur with /u/JustBeefTaco in recommending the TP-Link Archer C7. In addition to the reasons he said, it's also good because it's supported by LEDE. My own home network runs on an Archer C7 (running LEDE 17.01)

That said, if you wanted to "do it right" using one access point per floor, then you'd put a non-wi-fi router such as this Mikrotik in the basement next to the cable modem, and then connect it using gigabit ethernet to ceiling-mounted access points on each floor. (Disclaimer: I haven't researched this kind of setup, so I don't know if these are the best devices to choose.) Note that the devices I listed support PoE (Power over Ethernet), which IMO would be important for that kind of more permanently-installed setup.

u/Buelldozer · 3 pointsr/computertechs

Any one of these:

There was an enormous thread over on /r/sysadmin a couple weeks back (over 1,000 responses) and these tp-link models were among the most popular. The Archer C9 model is the first one with a dual CPU and has 128Meg of RAM and is reasonably priced.

u/lome251 · 3 pointsr/Surface

Having issues connecting to my new TP-Link AC1900 DualBand router still. It loses Internet from both the 2.4 GHz and 5Ghz signals after about 2-3 mins. I can connect to the old Verizon Router no problems.

u/mixermixing · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Are you renting/leasing the router? For the cable internet setups, it's best to get a dedicated modem by itself and buy an external router. The AIO modem/router usually has compromises and not really upgradable if you want faster wifi speeds.

Since it's from 2010, I'd upgrade the setup completely with a new modem (depending on what your provider speeds are) and a router (TP Link Archer C9 because it's what I use and provides great wifi speeds when you have dual band devices).

u/SynapticStatic · 3 pointsr/Steam_Link

Just a hair more expensive than your range, but I've been using this for the past few years and it's just fine.

u/FrankenBerryGxM · 3 pointsr/NHLHUT

Since booting is a felony it's a really serious accusation.

It's also really hard to proof

if proven it is really hard to track.

ever since I got this router I haven't been booted, that combined with getting 200mbps download.

u/xscottw · 3 pointsr/centurylink

The cool thing about CenturyLink Gig service is that you don't need a modem at all. The ONT they provide is akin to the modem in the sense that it Modulates and Demodulates light signals. You just need a good router that supports PPPoE authentication and VLAN tagging usually (that can vary on the region a bit)

This modem appears to be decent for less than $100

Most routers on Amazon/Ebay that have "gig ethernet" and "dual band wifi" should be compatible.

Also don't expect to get gig speeds over wifi ever. That's unrealistic unless you buy the best equipment for clients and for your router. If you need the full speed a hardwired ethernet connection to the router is going to be your best bet.

u/minektur · 3 pointsr/PFSENSE

A lot of the GL.inet devices and similar clones all run OpenWRT, and come with a hand-holding extra web interface on top of that.
For instance, on the low end you might use this:

I have personally used this one to provide a VPN-tunneled wifi (edit: and wired lan) network for devices that don't easily support openvpn, using a pfsense box on the remote end as the openvpn server:

u/CyberForest · 3 pointsr/news

Yes! I use the TP-Link Archer A7 v5 (Amazon link, OpenWRT firmware link). The cable modem from my ISP is a modem/router combo, so I placed the ISP hardware into "bridged" mode after flashing OpenWRT to the router. After flashing, just use the router's new GUI to install "Adblock" and configure. If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to help. It was a nightmare for me setting it up by myself the first time.

u/sk9592 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I would get this very popular TP-Link router:

It doesn't cost too much, will have great coverage, and 4 gigabit Ethernet ports.

Frankly, right now is a terrible time to buy a "premium" router. WiFi 6 AX is right around the corner.

The WiFi 6 AX routers out so far are using the draft spec. The spec is expected to be finalized before the end of the year. We will probably see the second generation of AX devices a few months after that.

If you intend to spend $200 on a top of the line router, do it a year from now, not today.

u/spaanks · 3 pointsr/Spectrum

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7)

i have this one and about 10 devices and it’s great.

u/FantasticPhenom · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I would divorce the two units (combination units tend to cut corners and if you ever get fiber internet or want to repurpose a part you're stuck).

My general suggestion would be SB6183 modem + (TP-Link Archer C7 or A7 or on sale Google OnHub for $70ish) - the google stuff is better out of the box(what I'd suggest a relative 1000 miles away would get), the TP-Link gear is MUCH more configurable and would give you better options if flashed (like SQM support).

This would all cost around $100-120ish which is a hair over your budget.

u/Hello-their · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This is more than you asked for, but I have this Asus router and I can't recommend it enough. The speed is great, and the admin UI is very easy to use. I'm actually buying 2 more to replace very old DLink access point and bridge, as this router can act as router, access point and bridge.

u/coeruleumblue · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I'm not exactly sure what your needs are, but I've had good luck with this router:

u/lantech · 3 pointsr/wireless

Cheap? That's relative especially with those specs required...
I like Asus lately:

The Netgear Nighthawk is more:

Are you sure you need a router though? It might be you just need an access point.

u/DoctorWorm_ · 3 pointsr/hardware
u/Lickingmonitors · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'm not sure. My home network works fine atm. I'm giving my current ASUS router to my mother, and am looking for an upgrade.
I thought I could come here and see recommendations for a fast newer router, but I'm seeing this Ubiquity option, and am interested.

u/DaNPrS · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First thing to note: modems are typically used to convert a digital signal to analog. This is used by cable providers that deliver internet access via their existing cables.

FiOS is fiber, it's already a digital signal. The router you have is therefore, not a modem and does not offer a modem's function.

That said, it does include what most modern routers do, a firewall (yes this used to be a separate device), a Wireless Access Point (WAP), and a switch.

What you need to keep in mind is that if you subscribe to FiOS TV service, you will probably need to keep the VZ router. This is because the router does offer MoCA, a protocol used to deliver data over coax cable for the STBs (set top boxes).

So your question really comes down to "how do I take control over my network?"

Simple, buy a router, buy a WAP and if you need MoCA service, buy a MoCA bridge. If you want an all in one device that offers great performance, check out the Asus AC66U or the AC68U. People here are big fans, I myself have the earlier model (66) and I'm very pleased.

If you want to step up your game and get separate hardware, look into prosumer routers. Mikrotik and EdgeRouter Lite have some good options. Someone here is a fan of the EdgeRouter Lite.

For WAP look no further then Ubuquiti. Get a N model or maybe the AC if you got the cash.

Trendnet has some really nice unmanaged switches.


Set up

With the all in one: ISP > router > possible switch > possible MoCA bridge

With the stand alone devices: ISP > router > switch > WAP + possible MoCA bridge

u/fatchad420 · 3 pointsr/networking

After further searching this subreddit...would this setup work:

Modem --> Router --> PoE Switch --> 3 AP's spread throughout the shop, all broadcasting the same SSID and Password for seamless/smart transitioning.

u/drakontas · 3 pointsr/wireless

Since you don't want to get rid of one of the providers, let's combine them!

Proposed Layout:

Bear in mind that you will need to locate the wiring and current switch used to distribute the Internet access from ISP B to your wall jacks and modify it to fit the layout above. Your current setup from ISP B probably looks something like this:

For the Multi-WAN router I suggest a server running pfSense ( or an EdgeRouter Lite from Ubiquiti ( This will allow you to combine and balance the load between both Internet connections.

The Optional Switch devices at the top of the network allow you plug devices directly into the network from ISP A or ISP B, bypassing the combined connection. You would only do this is there is not a way to handle the connection for those devices through the combined connection. You should be able to do everything through the combined connection, but it may take some tinkering around with load balancer rules and firewall rules, so the Optional Switches are a super easy way to get the same functionality if you don't want to burn time doing configs. All switches in this diagram can be basic unmanaged switches, any off the shelf device from your local electronics retailer will do the trick.

For the Access Points, I highly recommend replacing your routers with real access points. This can be done with routers by switching them to AP-only mode, but you will encounter issues with having to manually align the configs between devices, etc. For an entry level exercise, I'd suggest Ubiquiti's UniFi AP line -- 2.4ghz-only APs start at $69, and the 5ghz AP options start at $229. 2.4ghz is fine if you're in a house by itself without other signals nearby; if you're in an area with many other wireless signals present (besides the ones from the routers you will be replacing), you should get 5ghz access points.

The other major benefit that getting real access points like UniFi will provide is the ability to manage them from a single central point. You can align and roll out configs to all devices simultaneously, and you also get a single view of traffic and usage across the entire network which helps identify and resolve any issues that may crop up.

I hope this helps!

u/clickwir · 3 pointsr/HomeServer

Router: Low power, low cost, fast, 3 gigabit interfaces, Linux, good WebUI, good forum support, no moving parts/reliable...


Let the router be a router, don't have 1 box try to do too many things. Keep your router/firewall separate from being a server, it's better that way.

u/danodemano · 3 pointsr/homelab

That could prove problematic but I think it's doable with the right hardware. Another option might be something like this, though you would have to verify it has the capabilities you need:

u/broknbottle · 3 pointsr/buildapc

build your own out of an old box with vyos or pickup an edgerouterlite and a ubiquity unifi AP

u/CrossedZebra · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Yup. You can do this with almost any wifi router, though newer one's might have an actual AP mode to make life easier. Here's a manufacturer faq on how to do it for those without an AP mode -

Basically just assign it an IP on your network so if you're using assign it it 192.168.1.yyy , where yyy is an unused number, and then disable DHCP. Setup wifi, then connect from LAN port to LAN port (not WAN) and you're set.

Or you can also get a dedicated wifi AP like this

It's good and cheap, but only 10/100 so as long as your incoming internet speed is slower than 100Mbps, you're good. Just set it up in AP mode, setup wifi and connect it to your router.

u/TheLonelyLumen · 3 pointsr/xboxone

this is what I upgraded to and it has made a huge difference in watching movies from my Plex Server on XB1 compared to my old outdated router which didn't even get full bars in my 1k sq ft. condo..

I have had zero problems with this router.. easily stream 1080p 4gb movie files and of course my multiplayer gaming experience has been solid.

Checkout for other options though I think the Nighthawk R7000 is better if you can swing it.

u/GinjaSlice · 3 pointsr/xboxone

This for a very good router for a decent price

This if you want to spend a little more and have the best.

u/manirelli · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I picked up this badboy and haven't had to reset it even once since it was purchased ~6 months ago

The features and interface are crazy easy to use and there is a ton of customization if you need it.

u/sjs31 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Here's the Amazon link bud.

DM me if you need help setting it up.

u/xeqtr_inc · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Go for Ubiquity if your house is big, say 2000sq/ft+, multiple stories and thick walls. because you need to setup at least 2 APs to cover the whole house.

If not go for Netgear R7000

Its definitely much more expensive then R6700 but its worth an invest. Still within your budget also.


u/MJuniorDC9 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Check NP-300 (IPV6 ready, 300mbps) and the N450 (450MBPS, three antennas)

u/wanderingbilby · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

For a straight AP that's probably the least expensive reliable model. Other than range, better AP typically give you better speed and reliability even when you have several devices nearby.

if price is at a premium, I'd pick up something like a TP-Link N450 router and put it in AP mode. If it works as a switch too, you're set, if not, it's compatible with OpenWRT. For same-room surfing and such it should work fine.

u/LBUlises · 3 pointsr/longbeach

I wouldn't go to best buy, I'd recommend buying it online. If you can't buy it online go to bestbuy and get them to price match an item.

I'd recommend this one.

Edit: If you want a newer option I'd recommend this one. ~$30 more

u/TheHeretic · 3 pointsr/orlando

this modem + this router

Its $174 but you really get more for that $24

I have the same exact modem, its awesome, I get 100mbps on it with their 90 plan. I have the bigger brother to that router, but my freind has one and its worked great for 2 years.

u/JelliedHam · 3 pointsr/htcone

That would be This bad boy right here. The ASUS RT-N56U. We pay for boost at home for 50 down and 8 up. When I'm on 5Ghz wifi, I get all 50 down and 8 up. Pretty nice to have that sort of speed and not have to use an Ethernet cable.

What's also cool is that I'm still using my laptop from 2008. I paid a ton for it then, when 5G wifi was barely available. That machine is still kicking ass after 4 years.

u/gengas · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I ran CAT5e to the three bedrooms and to the entertainment center wall. One drop in the two small bedrooms, two drops to the master bedroom, and two drops to the entertainment center.

I terminated the rooms to Cable Matters keystones.
I'm using an Asus RT-N56U wireless router and a Trendnet TEG-S80g 8port gigabit switch with an Intellinet 12 port patch panel.
It's patched together with cable matters 3ft patch cables.
I have fiber internet service(no modem needed).

I had anticipated another cable run for a Ubiquity WAP, but after I tested the signal coverage from the Asus router it was not needed(full coverage everywhere in the house).

u/ZeroCool2u · 3 pointsr/techsupport

This is one of my favorites.

It meets/surpasses all of your requirements.

u/ballandabiscuit · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Okay, that makes more sense lol. Thank you.

I think I've got all the info I need. At this point I'm just comparing three similar routers:

The one you recommended

This Asus one that's a dollar less

And this Asus one that looks to be the same as the other Asus but is $ cheaper and has 300 less max speed

All three are dual-band so it's just a matter of picking one. The TP-Link one says it has a 2 year warranty and 24/7 customer service so that might be worthwhile. It also has the highest max speed but that doesn't really make a huge difference to me since my internet is capped at 25 anyway. The TP-Link is the most expensive, $17 more than the cheapest Asus one. Hmmm.

u/kingdavecako · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

I've never, in the history of ever, had a signal precariously drop out like that (beyond an internet outage on the back-end). I'd suggest looking at reviews to find a non-shitty router, instead of just jumping to the most expensive router under the assumption that it will be of high quality. This is a killer router that outperforms the Airport any day of the week. That being said, beyond a certain level of range, you can't expect any router to provide stable connectivity. If your house is any bigger than 2500-3000ft^2 , you should probably look into getting a repeater. Otherwise, you should have no problem covering it with a good, centrally placed router.

u/Klexicon · 3 pointsr/Lubbock

Buy this one used. Right now there is one for $36 with prime shipping. I got a used one for 29.95, and but so far it works great. It is on the Suddenlink recommended modem list as well.

That is the router I bought, but you really won't need anything like that one if you don't care about WirelessN. Together I paid $130 for the two.

u/imozmo · 3 pointsr/China

Perhaps there is a way to do this at the Router (instead of individual computers?). This way the VPN is mostly invisible to the members of the team (in that location). For those that work remotely, many VPN clients automatically start and run on computer start-up, making it pretty easy.

In order to get you started I am including links to NewEgg and Amazon's VPN Routers.

Edit: I just discovered that some routers already have VPN built in! This crazy nice router does!

u/Kidron · 3 pointsr/techsupport

As far as a top class router at an awesome price I would recommend this. We use them in all our businesses we support. I can't mention a time the router actually had to be reset for any internet issues where it wasn't the ISP's fault.

u/sandals0sandals · 3 pointsr/hardware

For your modem, I also recommend a Motorola Surfboard modem with DOCSIS 3.0, usually there will be a current model on Amazon will tons of good reviews.

For your router, that will also depend on the square footage you need to cover. They have released 802.11ac routers, but those are so new that there isn't an established "best router" for the money for 802.11ac, and there are already models that have problems, so for now my recommendation is going to be a Dual Band router with the appropriate amount of coverage for your square footage.

1500-2000 SQ. FT Router: D-Link DIR-825 ( )

2000-2500 SQ. FT Router: ASUS RT-N66U ( )

Up to 10,000 SQ. FT Router: Amped Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router ( )

u/Dalzeil · 3 pointsr/pokemongodev

Amazing how many people still have that general model of router...I do some "IT-related-work", and frequently encourage customers to upgrade from these.

The biggest thing with these is that Wireless G has been out of use since around...2009, 2010? And while it says speeds are 54Mbps, that's a max theoretical, and is literally never reached by these devices. Practical speeds are 19-22Mbps.

It seems like your external antenna is helping with range, which would be another one of the pitfalls of wireless G.

Since you've asked for suggestions in some of the other posts on here, I would say if you wanted to upgrade, my recommendation would be a Dual-Band Wireless N (or if you wanted to spend more money, Tri-Band Wireless AC), where you use the 2.4GHz band and your antenna for the POGO players, and the 5GHz band for your personal devices (assuming that your devices have 5GHz capability). And, as others have said, you can use DD-WRT or something similar, and limit the available domains/ports.

Examples - Dual Band Wireless N or Tri Band Wireless AC. I used the Dual Band one for 4 years before I ended upgrading, and it worked great for me.

Awesome on you for wanting to try such an ambitious project!

u/betterusername · 3 pointsr/Hue

I haven't dealt with Windows in a long time, so I'm not sure what bridging looks like now, but it used to be challenging. It's pretty easy on a mac, no idea on Linux (never tried). However, with a decent router, it's easy to get it to run in bridge mode. I have an Asus RT-N66U that I use as a bridge to my tv and Xbox 360.

This is a fairly reliable way to do it, and I imagine most mid-range and up routers, or anything running dd-wrt will support. Search for media bridges also.

u/Stickfigs · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Depending on the version, the hardware of the WNDR3700 is simply outdated. I would consider flashing it with DD-WRT to get the most out of it first.

Otherwise, yea, just get a new router. You're paying for 150Mbps speed, you should invest in the hardware along with it. My go to suggestion is the RT-N66U. Great features for a soho router and a strong 2.4Ghz band. The 802.11ac version is about 20 bucks more.

u/DeletesAccounts0ften · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You're making the issue more complicated than it needs to be. You can indeed just replace the old router with a new one. You only need two if your house is giant and your router is crap. Most people just assume, "I have two stories I guess I need two routers" when in reality they just need a better single router.

I urge everyone to replace the router provided by their ISP. You will see a significant jump in internet speeds. I always recommend the ASUS RT-N66U because I use it myself and my speeds improved significantly.

To install a new router all you have to do is set-up a new network. The router I listed comes with a CD that will guide you through the process, which is very simple.

You don't need a $300 sacrificial alter to cover a 2 story house with six people in it. The one I listed is dual-band so you can use one for mobile devices and the other for PC's as well if you want, or don't. Either way, this is an easy fix.

u/whitemomblackdad · 3 pointsr/cordcutters
u/gusgizmo · 2 pointsr/wireless

This is a really awesome unit for $30, solid wireless connectivity and good routing performance to bring out the most from your internet connection.

This router supports DD-WRT if you feel that the stock firmware is inadequate, or down the line you get a better router and want to use it as a repeater or wireless bridge.

This router doesn't have gigabit ports or a 5 ghz radio, but it doesn't sound like you would utilize those features.

u/TSIashleigh · 2 pointsr/teksavvy

Hello breathinggames,

Thank you for the message. The TP-Link TL-WR940N is a wireless router. This isn't a modem. You will still need a modem to connect to your DSL service. If you need a wireless router for a wireless network at your home this would work fine to connect to a modem.

If you want more information on this device here is a page with more information to review:

With a little more information I will be able to assist you with this further. What modem are you currently using for your connection?? Make/model??

If there are further questions, please let us know.


u/jacktheamiibo · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Oh shoot, I just realized you mentioned the router, not the modem. My mistake.
No, Time Warner doesn't care about your router, only your modem. Feel free to buy any old router. I'd recommend a TP-LINK N450 ( as it is more than enough for your speeds. You could also get the N300 as well for slightly cheaper but still plenty of speed.

u/fruitwonk · 2 pointsr/xbox360

When I had issues connecting to Xbox live in the past, it had to do with my router. I recommend connecting directly to your modem with an ethernet cable to see if you can connect that way. If that works, then it's the router.

Do a google search on forwarding your ports in your router settings.

If you haven't purchased a new router in a while, you might want to get a new one anyway. I recommend this one:

u/MSgtGunny · 2 pointsr/PS3

So I would recommend which gives you expandability in the future for wireless devices while staying in your budget, if you really need the cheapest possible wired only router, fits the bill, but again I highly recommend going with the first one I posted.

u/Abzstrak · 2 pointsr/homelab

Seems silly to me. The rpi3 has a BCM43438 with a single band, 2.4GHz 802.11b/g/n... You can grab a $20 AP to load ddwrt on that should meet those specs, use less power and have better antennas.

or splurge for like $30 and get something like this :

support 5GHz, which is totally worth it.

u/joshua-giraffe · 2 pointsr/Edmonton

Its not worth trying to fix the Telus one. It will work for a few days then fail again. Go to staples or bestbuy or amazon and pick up pretty much any dlink/asus router 30$ and over. You'll have to set it up though one of the Lan/Wan ports on your actiontech but itll give you alot less troubles than the actiontech one. The 5GHz that extender that someone mentioned does help but still liable for breaking every few weeks.

u/veriix · 2 pointsr/Frugal

I got my brother this router a while back and he hasn't had any issues with it. Around the same amount of devices as you.

u/TehMonkeyman · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

So I just upgraded myself and I'm on Xfinity (Comcast) also. Check out the comcast Modem combatiblity list here. I first got a refurbished Arris SB6121 and long story short I nor Comcast could get the Modem to activate. Then after doing some research I picked up the Netgear CM400 New for $60 and its been working great thus far. Since I only need 802.11n wifi capability I decided to get a TP-LINK N450 for $30. But if you want a bunch of bells an whistles or 802.11ac its gonna cost you. Everything I purchased seems to work great, the new router reaches all the way to my upstairs bedroom chromecast, I highly recomend any TP-Link wifi router they have all worked great in the past. Hope I helped.

u/lorditchy · 2 pointsr/perktv

I got this one:
about 6 months ago. It's currently $20 and it solved all of my routing problems.
TP Link seems to work pretty good for perking with multiple devices.

u/SamMode · 2 pointsr/Hue

Hey I was just in a similar situation a few days ago. I bought a wireless router and set up my own network using the wifi extender that was already in my room and connected the bridge to the router. Make sure if you do this you look up how to hide your network from other people or someone in the building may shut you down.

Here's the router I used ($30):

Hope it helps!

Edit: wanted to add that if you set this up correctly then you should have your own network that has a working internet connection. Even though I'm on this private network on my phone I can still stay connected to the Internet.

u/tielknight · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Using this router and having a ~130mbps wired connection I get about 60mbps down and i'm about ~15-20 ft away through a wall.

u/IzzuThug · 2 pointsr/Acadiana

You can use any router as far as I know. I've never used a WD router before so I have no clue how good that actually is. The ones I have used on LUS fiber are:

u/the_method · 2 pointsr/lexington

Yeah I'll second TWC here, they're certainly the lesser of two evils in this case until Google blesses us with fiber. I will say though, if you plan on getting one of their better plans (30Mbps+), buy your own modem and router if you can afford it. Note, for the modem I linked, only buy the white one, the black one is a previously owned, repackaged one that was only available to ISPs and cannot be updated, and for the router, ASUS has some cheaper models that are still very good like this one (still not super cheap, but good) or this one if you want to go really cheap.

With my own equipment, I get the speeds I paid for (sometimes even faster) at all hours of the day with no outages, but prior to that when I was renting the stuff from them, my speeds were almost always lower and I had to reset the thing 3+ times a day.

u/BoogerEater101 · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

I bought this recently, it has two channels one at 2.5 GHz and one at 5 GHz you could reserve the 2.5 one for your self and let the others share the faster 5 one or vise versa.

u/mfact50 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
  1. Probably. Try a hard reset first.

  2. Asus RT-N56U, If you can go a bit above: Asus RT-AC56U

  3. Yep 5Ghz channel is your best bet. On N routers the range isn't as good as the 2.4Ghz channel because higher frequencies don't travel as far but typically on AC routers they boost the power high enough to overcome this.

    FYI: When you get the 2nd router, either put the first one in bridge mode so it just acts as a modem or make sure you look up how to put the 2nd one in access point mode and turn off WiFi on the main one. I would suggest the 1st method so your (hopefully) more reliable 2nd router does the heavy lifting.
u/Rebeleleven · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Asus RT-N56U is easily the best router I've ever had/seen.

u/AdjustableTableLamp · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/pdinc · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I would get the Netgear if you were forced between those two options, but my personal recommendation would actually be this Asus N56U at the same price point as the Netgear.

u/acidhax · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I use this guy:
ASUS® RT-N56U Dual-Band Wireless-N Router

It even has remote torrent, external HDD, and Samba support.

u/whythreekay · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

The Asus N56 has been bulletproof for me, provided you stay away from their awful drivers. There's a programmer who does custom versions that are excellent.

I'm currently running 2 consoles, my receiver, 3 laptops, 2 Chromecasts and a Roku between my girlfriend and I on WiFi, and it's been great.

$85 on Amazon

ASUS Dual-Band Wireless-N 600 Router (RT-N56U)

u/joecarst · 2 pointsr/buildapc

My guess is that comcast supported means they will help if you call with an issue. It doesn't mean that they won't work. I would think that most routers have online help or support lines you can call if you have an issue.

I have heard good things about ASUS routers, both in build quality and features. The ASUS RT-N56U is a particular favorite but is a little more than the two you were looking at.

I think the ASUS N-300 (RT-N12b) has been replaced by the ASUS RT-n13u. That doesn't mean it is bad, just there are probably more features out there it is missing.

u/rhtufts · 2 pointsr/gadgets

I just got an Asus RT-n56u It has a ton of features for a great price. I like that you can plug your printer and a hd into it.

So far it has been a great router, been supporting 20+ devices without a single hiccup yet.


u/FallenLords · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Wow, now i'm interested. If i got this and the one of AC AP lite/LR/Pro, would it be better than what i have now? I currently have the Asus RT-n56u

u/robahearts · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I've been using ASUS RT-N56U and been happy with it.

  • Dual Band, Data Rate: 802.11n - up to 300Mbps data rate; Wired Performance: WAN to LAN: up to 900Mbps; LAN to LAN: 1Gbps
  • Interface: 1x WAN port, 4x LAN ports for 10/100/1000 BaseT, Port: 2x USB 2.0 ports

    They also have a newer model ASUS RT-N66U

  • 3 x Detachable antenna for 2.4GHz/5GHz with peak gain 3dBi/ 5dBi
  • IPv6 support; VPN Server Support
  • 802.11n: up to 450Mbps ; 802.11a/g: up to 54Mbps; 802.11b: up to 11Mbps
  • Supports Ethernet and 802.3 with max. bit rate 10/100/1000 Mbps
  • 4 x LAN ports for 10/100/1000 BaseT
  • 2 x USB2.0 support got Printer sharing or HDD sharing
u/TeamZebra · 2 pointsr/Seattle

This is the router I use. I have the gigabit package from CondoInternet. My ethernet line speed is usually around 800mb/s (not gigabit, but it seems difficult to get gigabit speed from a single connection; multiple, simultaneous downloads usually see gigabit). I think through my wifi, I usually see 100-150mbit, at least on my phone. It might be higher on laptops, might not be. Not sure. Officially, the router supports 300mbit wifi, but that's in perfect conditions.

Edit: Also, have you messed around with changing the frequency of broadcast/channel/etc? I was initially only seeing 30mbit or so when I set up my router, but changing the channel and frequency bumped me up to the low-to-mid 100mbit range.

u/dmazzoni · 2 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

Consider buying your own router? A router like this one from ASUS is ridiculously better quality than the one that your cable company gave you for free. Keep theirs, but plug this one into it via Ethernet and use it instead.

Yes, 5 GHz might help, but not necessarily because of the microwave. The ASUS I linked to has both 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz.

u/RoKPhish · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Best Router I have EVER had ... bar none.

Asus RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router

u/antihexe · 2 pointsr/Comcast

The WRT54GL is likely still fine if it's still in good working order. It's a classic, but it's certainly still useful. It's wireless is theoretically limited to 54Mbps double what you pay for.

I use at home:

and own a few

Both are great but quite expensive.

u/Xathroz · 2 pointsr/buildapc

i bought this ASUS RT-N66U and it works flawlessly. Best purchase I've ever made, and it supports custom firmwares. It's a little more expensive, but in my experience, cheaping out on a router gets you nothing but trouble in the long run.

u/DailyCaffiene · 2 pointsr/vainglorygame

The ASUS RT-N66U is a good budget router for wireless gaming.

It broadcasts in 2.4GHz and 5 GHZ and has a decent GUI for setup and network mapping, among other useful features.

u/Tbrooks · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

The motorola surfboard modem is fairly popular, I have one but it is a more expensive model than this.
Also, the asus RT-N66U router is fantastic and works like a dream for me.

I am sure with a little digging you can find them within your price range.

u/netphemera · 2 pointsr/wireless

Maybe the netgear, but the Asus in the go-to router these days:

u/skytzx · 2 pointsr/gadgets

The Asus RT-N66U is just a bit above your budget, but I would say it's well worth it. I have the AC version of it, which is probably one of the most recommended routers on this subreddit.

u/RansomOfThulcandra · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You can buy your own modem, if you'd like. If you'll use it for a least a year you probably break even versus the lease costs for the one they "gave" you.

The modem I have is an SB6141. I've had zero issues with it.

The SB6121 is a little cheaper and quite similar; it has a lower (but still high) speed cap.

The router I have is an Asus RT-N66U. It's 802.11N, not AC, but I've been happy with it. I don't have devices that support AC yet anyway.

u/Jaben3421 · 2 pointsr/technology

If you're looking for decent performance, look for a dual band 802.11n router such as the Asus RT-N66U. If you're looking for the best performance, get a dual band 802.11AC router such as the Netgear Nighthawk R7000 or the Asus RT-AC87U. Also, make sure you have a Docsis 3.0 Modem if you have cable.

u/jaynoj · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This is a very good router.

Edit: Asus make very good, very reliable routers. If you want a good router, spend more. If you try and save and get a cheaper one, you will be disappointed, and end up in the "Save now, pay later" scenario. The RT-N66U will last you a few years.

I cannot comment on the router you linked.

u/astroNerf · 2 pointsr/teksavvy

I'll second /u/reubendevries's suggestion: I used to have problems with cheap routers where a large amount of bittorrent traffic would cause them to suddenly stop working. Resetting my router multiple times in a single day was the final straw, and I went and bought an Asus RT-N66U. I think in the +2 years I've had it, I've had to powercycle it once, because I thought it was acting odd.

While I am a programmer who is no stranger to working with embedded systems and flashing EEPROMs and such, I've found it easier to just buy a good router, rather than futz around with DD-WRT. It used to be that you had to be very careful that you got a specific hardware version when working with DD-WRT or similar software packages and that was more trouble than my time was worth.

u/cncking2000 · 2 pointsr/Comcast

Zoom 5341J

Asus RT-N66U

If you have a use for AC wireless, you can upgrade that Asus to the RT-AC68U or similar. I've had the Zoom modem on an APC for over a year, no reboots, no resets required. A very solid modem.

u/NyanGoat · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I'm not too much into consumer-grade equipment anymore, but I do think the ASUS RT-AC66U would be a very good choice.

It does go in the upper range of your budget though, but it's more futureproof than it's brother the ASUS RT-N66U, since it supports the AC standard, and not just N standard.

The placement of the router can have a lot to say for your wireless coverage. Having it on the floor under a desk might cause wireless reflections from the wall/desk, which could affect the performance and reach of the wireless network.

Ideally, you would place the router up high and central to the house, but in a lot of the cases this is not possible.

u/megustareddito · 2 pointsr/buildapc

We just bought this at home after quite a bit of research. We bridged the router to our modem to bypass the second layer of NAT. We literally have no loss on wireless connections compared to hardwired. TONS of features too.

u/popcap200 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/v-_-v · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> PC directly behind the modem

So: wall -- modem -- PC? And with that he got 120/21 ?

If so, your router blows and you need a better one, one that supports your speeds.

The Asus RT-N66u is one of the go to consumer wireless routers that most people seem to have a good experience with. It should do you good.

u/gurdonbob · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

thanks that's cool but i guess the more i think about it the less i want to drop so much on a wifi router. it's really not going to have heavy use, just web browsing, streaming and such.

would either of these work well (i.e. good reliable connections)?

This TP

Or perhaps this ASUS

u/jimbo831 · 2 pointsr/ClashOfClans

I've been there before. This router changed my life:

Asus RT-N66U

Don't ask any questions. Just buy it. Unless you really want AC wireless, then get this one:

Asus RT-AC66U

You'll thank me later.

u/guyinthegreenshirt · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

I'd do separate modem and router...that way if one fails the other doesn't (and usually when they're separate they do their one function better.)

The SB6141 is the recommended modem these days. I personally have a CM820 provided by my cable company (included with my internet) and it seems to be reliable as well.

Asus has been making some good routers lately, though I personally use a Netgear R6100 and it works good as well.

u/Quasmo · 2 pointsr/hardware

For your NAS I would highly recommend the Synology Disk station. I currently have the 212j, and couldn't be happier with it. It has a great user interface, and some pretty nice features. It has a usb port on it, and will run your printer. Synology also has an application similar to "dropbox," allowing you to sync files between your computer and the NAS. It allows for multiple users, and it's super easy to setup.

Link on Amazon

As previously suggested, solid state drives are probably your best bet.

As for the router, I would suggest the Asus RT-N66U

Link on Amazon

Out of the box it has a great firmware if you don't want to have to deal with Tomato or DD-WRT.

u/TheClonker · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Do you want to use wifi or lan connections ?

Also where are you located ?

If EU i would recommend a Fritz!Box Router, if not this one is not to bad but expensive.

Give some more information, and also what you are willing to spend, i will give you some more suggestions :)

u/dansfloyd · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/Hyppy · 2 pointsr/buildapc
u/motherhydra · 2 pointsr/houston

I can tell you my method, there are variations on this setup that could be cheaper, more reliable. But this works for me, so disclaimer out of the way...

I use this wireless router, an ASUS N66U, with custom firmware installed onboard. The firmware was provided through my usenet provider, Giganews.

I've set this up for a family member as well, which allows them to stream MLB and NBA without those pesky blackouts. The really nice part for me is the number of servers both locally and internationally. Remember the famously terrible Olympic coverage here in the states? Logging in via a UK-terminating VPN allowed me to watch all the events via the excellent BBC UK streams that us Americans couldn't watch (thanks NBC).

u/Furority · 2 pointsr/buildapc


If you can afford it, I would reccommend this one.

u/Jessie_James · 2 pointsr/ps3bf3

For what it's worth, I had major lag issues with a variety of routers. Dlink, Netgear, and others I have forgotten about. I bought an Asus Black Diamond router and all my wireless issues went away.

It was super highly rated, etc. This is the one:

u/Farsayl · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Check out the ASUS "Dark Knight"
Kicks ass at around $130 and will handle pretty much everything you need it to and more.

u/j0hnDaBauce · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yes, the router is this and i think my modem is this and the cable is 2ft long from router to the PC and ive switched between three cables and the speed is the same.

u/TurtleWaffle · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I recommend the ASUS RT-N66U Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router. I use this in an apartment with 5 people. We have a 50 Mbps download and I can get those speeds anywhere in the house with this. It has excellent range, and if you need higher speeds, you can use the 5 GHz frequency. It may be more expensive than most entry level routers, but you get much higher performance.

u/KayakingBookWorm · 2 pointsr/San_Angelo

It's entirely possible I was only renting for 5/month because of the apartment complex. I wound up going with this modem and this router duo mostly because I'm not super tech savy and am trying to piece this together for the first time. to save money, I simply knew that paying to own was better than paying to rent.

u/greedyiguana · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I ended up getting this one

I didn't have to do much research since my previous router was fairly old, and this one seemed to have much better range in general

u/ACSlatersMullet · 2 pointsr/toledo

I just checked my amazon history and this is what I've been using since March 2015:

I've had good luck with it, and I initially got it because I was having a poor signal in the basement and some upstairs bedrooms, much improved by switching to this instead of the built in modem wireless. There are probably better options than what I bought a few years back, but with whatever you get I'm sure the signal will be much better vs. using the modem.

u/got_lost_again · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I had the same issue a month or so ago. Ended up buying this modem:
Motorola SurfBoard SB6141

&& This router:

Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. My brother and I both have Xbox Ones, and we can finally play together or join others without issue. I didn't really have to change any settings around. Sometimes we have to reset the router and modem because we'll randomly have Strict NAT, but it's uncommon. Other times, doing a Hard Reset on the XBONE will solve the problem.

Edit: I can't promise this will reach the far corners of your house. I'm not super into hardware, and don't know how big or how insulated your house is. Sometimes, it's ideal to just run a 100ft cable or two to the further away places.

u/Flappers67 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I personally would buy another router. You can easily do what /u/michrech said but it seems like you don't like the prices (which I understand).

So yes searching "wireless routers" is a good term because 9 times out of 10 wireless routers have at least 4 ports on them. If I was in your position I would buy this router, or even this one. I linked these two because I have personally used them and i haven't had any issues with them.

Configuration wise, these routers should have a "Wireless AP" mode. Which will turn off the routers DHCP and just work off your main one, if you said you're running Cat5 cable (hopefully Cat5e).

The other configuration option you can do is to login into whichever router you get and turn off the DHCP server and then only plug ethernet cables into the 1-4 ports and NOT the WAN port. This will simply extend your existing router DHCP range to this new one. So you have options.

Hope this helps!

EDIT: Both configuration options I listed do the exact same thing...just different ways of doing them.

EDIT 2: I just now saw the second option /u/michrech listed and that does seem like a very viable option. Especially if you don't have a basic understanding of how to access a router's login page. It's probably a more plug and play option.

u/balance07 · 2 pointsr/rva

ASUS RT-N66W Dual-Band Wireless-N900 Gigabit Router

u/goldfenix · 2 pointsr/Denver

This guy is right on the money.

What you're looking for is essentially the following two items (or three, if you're supremely obsessive)

  1. A docsis 3.0 modem. The Motorola Surfboard brand has been king for quite some time.

  2. A router. You can go for wired (advantage: Never ever crashes) or wireless (crashes more often, particularly the cheaper ones). I recommend either his DIR 655, or if you want to spend more, the Asus RT-N66U ( I can count the number of times this router has crashed on me so far on zero fingers.

  3. If you got a wired router in step 2, you'll need a wifi access. I have become a big fan of the UniFi access points ( I got one for my parents, programmed it, then told them they were allowed to move it anywhere in the house they felt like. It has improved their wifi substantially. Please note, this entire step is only really useful if your house is at least 2,000 sq feet.
u/OSPFv3 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

WRT54GL classic.

ASUS RT-N66U should serve you well.

u/lilotimz · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Modem: Refurbished Arris 6183 $50

Router: Edgerouter X

Wireless Access Point: Ubiquiti AC Lite

Grab a few cat5e/6 cables to connect them together (

3 cables -- 1 from modem to router, 1 from router to POE adapter and poe adapter to WAP. Or you can do POE passthrough through edgerouter x where poe adapter goes before the edgerouter.

u/DirtyWeab · 2 pointsr/Comcast_Xfinity

To better help you on this (and a lot of it will be opinion) please give us some more info.

>How many devices do you plan to use (if more than 5, stay away from the crap you can find at best buy and walmart)

>How big of a space do you need to cover

>What's your budget

Personally I went Ubiquiti and grabbed an edgerouter X and an AC-AP for $150 and have never looked back. Since the AC-AP came with a PoE brick I hid it in the ceiling and the whole house is covered.

Edit - formatting

u/mdamaged · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I myself use a Edgerouter X (good for about 250-300Mbs with QoS enabled, get one of their bigger models if you need gigabit internet speeds) then add a Unifi Ap-AC Lite (POE), it's commercial quality, will run circles around those home units, or if that AP is too much, if you have an old wifi router you can use it for just a WAP.

u/duckduck_goose · 2 pointsr/Portland

Actually yeah. I suppose I could "wire" in the computers but they have run a set it n' forget it task when I'm not at home anyhow.

I guess a lot of the IT hobbiests have this and this as their network set up which means I get an end of year Net Admin crash course. My current network is a disorganized mess.

The only saving grace is a lot of places have cut off our phone supply and cheap ones go really fast in places where we can mass order them.

u/xelanil · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Instead of getting another consumer router you should go enterprise and get a Ubiquiti Edgerouter X and a Ubiquiti Unifi access point

u/zardvark · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

+1 on Intel network cards.

Mikrotik products are well regarded and are particularly popular in Europe. In addition to the Mikrotik, the Edgerouter X is also very popular at this price point.

Neither of these is a plug and play solution, so you may wish to view the software manuals for each of these two products, before making a purchase decision. There are many useful YouTube vids for the Edgerouter X. This is a general overview:

In addition to the Crosstalk Solutions channel, look at the Ben Pin and Willie Howe channels for additional configuration guidance.

u/luciferin · 2 pointsr/openwrt

If you don't care about WiFi, I personally have been very happy with the Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X Advanced for about $60. I wanted Gigabit, hardware NAT, and didn't want wireless (I have wifi accesspoints that I manage internally and separately).

u/IronGut73 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I just started setting up LibreNMS on a RPi. I only have it collecting data on a few hosts so far, but it's responding well. Like /u/farptr said, if you don't have something that supports NetFlow or similar, you're in a pickle. I run a Ubiquity EdgeRouter X between my modem & network that gives me the best view of what's going in & out of my network. Good luck!

u/OswaldoLN · 2 pointsr/linuxquestions

The reason I don't want to go the old PC route is because it's so power inefficient. I believe you'd be much better off getting a mini PC or compatible router.

I am getting this one:

I am also buying a ubiquiti AP to get the wifi in my house going. I would be murdered if I messed that up.

u/infinite_galaxy · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Is this a better router than this considering I paid ~$85 for the netgear one?

Edit: I would probably need to buy a switch with the ASUS one as well

Edit 2: Looks like it's already sold out. Bummer

u/unixwizzard · 2 pointsr/Comcast

How much are you looking to spend? Having said that..


unixwizzard's Recommended Home Routers


$200 - ASUS RT-AC3200 Wireless-AC3200 Tri-Band Wireless Gigabit Router *

$130 - ASUS RT-AC1900 Dual-Band Wireless Router

$70 -- ASUS RT-AC1200 Dual-Band Wireless Router *

D-Link :

$200 - D-Link AC3200 Ultra Tri-Band Wi-Fi Router

$120 - D-Link DIR-879 AC1900 EXO Wi-Fi Router

$60 -- D-Link AC1200 DIR-842 Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Wi-Fi Router

Netgear :

$220 - Netgear R7500 Nighthawk X4 AC2350 Dual Band WiFi Router

$110 - Netgear AC1750 Dual Band WiFi Gigabit Router (R6400)

$75 -- Netgear Wireless Router - AC 1200 Dual Band Gigabit (R6200)

^*Disclaimer: ^I ^currently ^own ^and ^use ^these ^devices, ^also... ^the ^prices ^are ^subject ^to ^change.

u/wigenite · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.

BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.

  1. a good wifi router.
  2. Power meter
  3. thermostat
  4. 4x wifi cameras
  5. entertainment

    Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4

    Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.

u/swamptech · 2 pointsr/NewOrleans

Netgear CM700 Modem

Netgear AC1750 Router

Netgear N300 Extenders

work great, but fucking Cox never does. Had 2 extended outages in the past 30 days

u/Diknak · 2 pointsr/technology

Netgear R6400

I had that router before the switch and didn't have problems.

u/TheMuffnMan · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Modems are completely independent of if a router is dual-band or not. You can safely connect that modem to a dual-band router.

For dual-band routers, personally I'd see if you can stretch your budget a little higher. I have mixed opinions on those models (750) after using it. You don't maention how large of a coverage area you need but at a minimum I'd go to the N900:

$90 N900

$120 AC1750

And my favorite AC1900/R7000 which is nearly double your price but it has excellent coverage for a two story house even. I've been really happy with the performance.

The N900 (step up from the 750) I have used successfully as well. If you want to stay under $100 I'd go with it.

u/kingbob2 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

while these long responses are good, they seem to miss a main point. gigabit ethernet is the standard. you can't find a new router without it.

If you really need to be cheap, go buy yourself a cheap router (ex: If you want better speed and range, go get an AC router(ex:

Also, google "router reviews" if you're not sure which to pick.

*not endorsing these routers, just giving examples.

u/MhysaPizza · 2 pointsr/DIY_tech

Cool in that case, I'll order

Are these good for speed? I work at home so fast connection is important. Is there a faster hardware that I should consider?

You mention that the installation guy will just come turn on the modem. Do we even need the guy to come if we buy our own stuff? Can I be the one that "turns it on"? Also, I am also ordering a home phone service and cable so he may need to come anyway?

u/fingers-crossed · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles

Yup this is the one I got, setup took under 5 mins. No complaints so far.

u/radecki · 2 pointsr/UCDavis

$100 is waaayyyy too much for a "decent" router. You can get reliable gigabit routers on Amazon for less than $60

u/RandallFlagg_DarkMan · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

Lol im royalty because a gbe router nowadays is sooooo expensive...and FYI i have no work at the moment, thanks for asking tho...also FYI again the newest raspi3b+ comes with gigabit, ofc cant totally take advantage of it because of usb2 and because all usb is shared but yea...15MB/s is and with all the fury...

To add a bit, you can probably get an used super solid tl-wr1043nd for like 20-30 bucks, or well...something like this

u/porksandwich9113 · 2 pointsr/Fios

Gigabit is 1Gb.

u/girlslikesciencetoo · 2 pointsr/technology

I have my own modem with Comcast. They do not throttle my speeds and the internet is fine. Here's the modem I have :
ARRIS SURFboard SB6183 DOCSIS 3.0...
Here's the router:
TP-Link AC1200 Gigabit Wireless Wi-Fi...
I was always told they last longer if you get the modem and router separately.

u/phate_exe · 2 pointsr/Albany

If the verizon router looks like this, it's a decent modem but a garbage router. If it's one of the newer ones, it's actually pretty solid, and your wifi problems aren't coming from the router. I've had both of these, the newer one is good enough that I didn't bother hooking up my nice router when I moved in..

Buy something like this. Set it up. Turn the wifi off on the TWC/Verizon FiOS router. Enjoy having decent wifi.

u/garylapointe · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

Don't do it. Get a modem and get a router. I'd get a cheap refurb modem as the standards are changing and prices will drop.

When the cable modem standard changes (or you change to an incompatible provider) you just unplug the router, plug it into the new device and everything is ready to go; all your devices have their password, all your guests and all the devices you forgot about still are connected.

You didn't mention speeds or carrier so it's hard to spec it for you. I have had several friends get this router and recommended it many times and had zero complaints.

I'd just get a cheap refurb router from Amazon, Arris SB6141 (these were $30 but jumped up to $40 ) or SB6183 (dropped to $45 )and plug it in. Look and see what devices your provider supports and the speeds they support (my 6141 is up to 343Mbps but some carriers only support it to 110Mbps, I've had this refurb for 3 years and it's running great).

u/andrewrmoore · 2 pointsr/homelab

If you can I'd honestly suggest stretching your budget a bit. $45 will get you a decent router:

u/japan_samsus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I really like the [ASUS RT series] ( The setup and interface I think is easier navigated than the TP links or netgears. In GUI it will notify you and autograb FW if needed. And the USB ports can be setup for whatever you want; I use mine on a hard drive for networked storage, much cheaper than setting up a NAS. The 3x3 is right at $100, archer c7 is 3x3 at $70. It always seems like the mid-high teir ASUS are more expensive, but at least for me less headache.

u/Lbc25 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Have a look at this: ASUS RT-ACRH13 Dual-Band 2x2 AC1300 Wifi 4-port Gigabit Router with USB 3.0

u/jacle2210 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Well, toss-out the Asus RT-N12; as it's only a single band router.


I have not really researched these, but they will be better than the RT-N12

ASUS (RT-ACRH13) Dual-Band 2x2 AC1300 Super-Fast Wifi 4-port Gigabit Router with MU-MIMO and USB 3.0


TP-Link (Archer A7) AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Routers for Home, Works with Alexa, Parental Control&QoS


u/archlich · 2 pointsr/Ubiquiti

I bought this asus over 2 years ago for $74. This asus looks like a comparable router for $59. This TP-Link is 33.50. The prices have really come down, it's a commodity market now instead of specialty.

I'd be using my asus right now, but I moved into a larger space and need more access points and ubiquiti was my solution.

u/QuantumInteger · 2 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

Faster is better. Internet is measured in megabits per second. Megabyte is the unit of measurement of data stored on your computer and phone. Megabit is the measurement of data getting transmitted over a connection. There are 8 megabits to a megabyte.

When shopping for ISP, get the fastest speed you can get at the cheapest rate you can find. Depending on your area, you can have a couple to choose from. Generally, it's one DSL and one cable. I'll try to elucidate.

DSL are companies like AT&T. They deliver their internet over old DSL (phone) lines. Generally speaking, their internet speeds are lower. AT&T, for example, cap out at 18-25mbps. This is generally okay but maintaining a 1080p stream on Netflix or having more than one stream while doing other things (downloading stuff to your Xbox, torrenting, etc) would all be bottlenecked. DSL companies use modems that connect to a phone jack. DSL companies also generally have worse performances (based on my experience).

Cable are companies like Time Warner Cable and Comcast. They used to do cables only but now have expanded to internet. They generally deliver faster speeds of 30-300mbps depending on the market. These higher speeds are better for your needs. While you may only have Netflix in mind, be aware that a lot of things you own require internet. The apps on your phone auto-update and can be quite large in size. If you have a console like an Xbox, digital games can go up to 50 gigabyte, neverminding the software updates. Your computer is constantly connected to the internet and its software updates can be quite big. Maybe you want to FaceTime your mother, a good connection would give you better quality and less issues.

Basically, don't cheap out on the speed. Now since, you're living by yourself you should go for a 100mbps package at minimum if you can get it. A price of $30-60 is reasonable. Apartment or housing shoppings now a days also depending on knowing which ISPs service your area and how fast they are. If you can't get good internet at an apartment, you should probably walk away.

Cable companies will try to rent you a modem or a modem/router combo which will add a monthly fee to your monthly bill. Don't do it. Buy something like this. If they give you a modem for free with no fees, take it. DSL companies generally force you to buy their modems upfront. In that regards, you have no choice.

Some modems provided come with wifi capability. Don't use it. Buy your own router that can provide better wifi. Something like this is good. Notice that it says gigabit and AC. Gigabit means that the ethernet port on the back is capable of 1000mbps speed. If you're thinking of buying internet speed faster than 100mbps, make sure you go for the gigabit router otherwise you're bottlenecking your speed. The AC router will guarantee better coverage, range, and performance on wifi as well as giving you speeds above 100mbps (again, not bottlenecking anything).

u/Zoxc32 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link Archer C9 isn't a bad option either, at least they bothered to put a heatsink on it.

ASUS RT-ACRH13 / RT-AC58U is also a decent option on sale. It also has a heatsink ;)

u/Korzag · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

You don't need anything particularly fancy. I'd suggest getting a router with a 5GHz band (most of them are dual band these days), and use that over the 2.4GHz band (shorter range, but they're faster and the 5GHz spectrum tends to be less polluted since a ton of devices use the 2.4GHz band).

Not sure how fast your internet will be, but I'd suggest getting a router that supports gigabit on the ethernet ports (many cheaper routers will use "fast" which only goes up to 100Mbps instead of 1000Mbps).


This one in the link seems pretty good for the price. A bit overkill, but it'll be plenty fast for your wireless devices.

u/Blackhalo · 2 pointsr/Hoocoodanode

Get a desktop connected to the wireless network, put a couple of 4-8 TB drives in a RAID-0, enable file sharing, share a folder (securely)... Your own local "cloud thing."

No more need for a rotational drive on your laptop, even for very large files. Heck, set up PXE boot and no need for a drive at all... But that is probably a tad outside of your skill-set. No offense...

Wireless AC...

u/jnux · 2 pointsr/Comcast

For my modem I use SB6183 (yes, I buy refurb) for $70, and have had great luck in general with the surfboard / arris line. This one is good for up to ~600Mbps (which is far faster than what Comcast sells me now).

For routers I go with Asus; huge user base and they're super solid. You can get this one for $60 ; it goes faster than most every speed tier that comcast currently offers in any market, so you can be sure it won't be the bottleneck on your network.

If you go with that set it'll take you a little more than a year to break even, but at that point you have it paid off and you have the peace of mind that you're in control of your own network.

Good luck!

u/Kiliwas · 2 pointsr/mexico
u/rndwombat · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Seriously its so cheap to get a decent router why not? U use steam in home streaming / rdp a lot and this router rocks.

u/lumabean · 2 pointsr/PleX

I'd recommend either getting a different router and just using the Xfinity combo as just a modem.

Network management was a pita with the xfinity crap and I had to restart the device multiple times to get my port configurations to stick.

Bought a Asus RT-ACRH13 and have no issues with port forwarding and network management.

u/stevemac00 · 2 pointsr/UNIFI

Another option you can do which I set up for my kid's house.

Just get this little Mango router ($USD 20).

All I had to do with it was import the VPN client and have it repeat WiFi with a new SSID. He simply selects the Mango SSID and everything is routed through the VPN.

Nice little gadget for $20.

u/Woody_L · 2 pointsr/googlehome

I use one similar to this one:

They have several models, some have more features, but this one should do what you want. Setting it up is pretty easy, but does require some experience working with routers.

u/krivetko · 2 pointsr/melbourne
  1. Your link is not a proof that Huawei sends your data to China. Actually, there are no proofs for that, only accusations from US without any real evidence (that looks like an instrument in trade war).
  2. But that's a good thing not to trust hardware that you don't have admin access to and that is probably not well maintained - I doubt that anyone installs firmware updates for your router, so there could be some security vulnerabilities unpatched.
  3. So, you can treat your WiFi as a public network. And the cheapest solution for safe communications on a public network will be VPN connection. Buy WiFi access point with VPN support (I can recommend GL.iNet, one of the cheapest is 30 dollars, and it's 2-minute setup to setup WiFi access point that will use your unsecure WiFi as an uplink and enable VPN. Or if you are a geek you can take RPi and set it up).
  4. Your provider always has the access to all your unencrypted traffic (and store metadata of that traffic for some years), nothing suspicious about that. As long as you use VPN (or at least transferring sensitive data only over HTTPS and your phone/laptop does not have any malware) - provider cannot snoop into your data.
u/KenjiFox · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

You need these;

Install them parallel with your current light switch in the RV, this will bypass the switch when it is off, and yet the switch can bypass the WiFi controller while IT is off. :) I live in my RV full time, I use these everywhere.


Do use LED lights though. Filament light wattage adds up fast and might burn these up. These will run small fans as well, but the dimming feature will cause a lot of motor whine if used to slow the fans.

As for the 110v, any smart plug (including Amazons which I have on my AC) will have a physical button on the side to toggle them on and off when you don't have Alexa working. That said, pair her to your phones hotspot and enjoy.


I have all the carriers with unlimited everything since internet is 100% required for me. I use a GL.iNet AR300M micro router to create a permanent access point regardless which phone I use to tether to it.


Here's a cheap version that will do all you need;


Hope this helps!

u/_Earth · 2 pointsr/homelab

Look up GL.inet on Amazon. $20 bucks for a mini router. you can connect the router to your university's Wi-Fi, authenticate via Portal, and set up a VPN very easily.

u/quinncom · 2 pointsr/onebag

These appear to be good alternatives to the TL-MR3040:

  • $20 GL.iNet GL-MT300N-V2: comes with OpenWRT preinstalled.
  • $27 GL.iNet Microuter: super-tiny, plugs directly into a powerbank/usb charger; OpenWRT preinstalled.
  • $30 TP-Link N300 (not sure if OpenWRT or DD-WRT runs on this).

    None of these have a built-in battery, but they can be powered by an external USB battery power bank.
u/689430944 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

travel routers might be what you want, in wireless/wired mode. you'll get more coverage if you do a wired backbone, not to mention speed/latentcy advantages. you could do a big "public" LAN without intercommunion, and each trailer have their own LAN or firewalled area. or, you could have one big LAN with everything intercommunicating(issues with devices such as chromecast).

u/awesomeaiden · 2 pointsr/Purdue

Had trouble with PAL Gaming for a long time, iTAP couldn't help me, so I just got a travel router off amazon for $20 and made my own wifi network from my ethernet connection. The router ( has an ethernet output as well so you can keep your ethernet connection while having your own wifi connection. Use the wifi for my google home mini.

u/cuscaden · 2 pointsr/appletv

Or get something like this if you just want to VPN the Apple TV alone:

Requires some IT skills to configure etc.,


I connect my Apple TV into it, have it configured to turn off the Wifi which I do not want, and it runs an OpenVPN on it. You can set it up so the toggle switch turns the VPN on or off, or you can use the web interface to do the same, plus select from multiple OpenVPN configs if you need that. I have US and UK specific ones for depending on what I want to watch.

u/drparton21 · 2 pointsr/Chattanooga

DOTA guy here. There are no friends in public games.


This is in your price range, and fantastic:

I know the look of it is a bit odd. No status lights for the individual LAN ports... but that's ok for you.

If you wanted to go bigger, this has a bit better speeds at long range, but is slightly outside your budget. It's also the router I use at home:

At somewhat close range, the D-Link I listed performs the same as the R7000.

All that being said, I'd save the $50 and get the first one. If you had a ton of devices, I'd say get the R7000. You likely won't be able to tell the difference, though, with under 5 machines.... unless it's on the opposite side of the house or something.

u/Ikarostv · 2 pointsr/gaming

Well - let's see.. I know that you have Verizon with a 75/75 Connection. So it sounds like you have a FiOS Connection and most likely have an ONT (Optical Network Terminal) on the outside/inside of your house. My guess is a 611/612. None the less, it's TYPICALLY better to utilize their Modem with their services. I am not sure Verizon allows a "bring your own Modem" when you have FiOS. I do not have them, however. But from my memory, I believe that is the case. If you CAN use your own - I can definitely recommend a Modem for you!

So otherwise would suggest contacting Verizon or going to a local store - to see if you can get a STANDALONE Modem. Something with 1 LAN Ethernet Port and no internal Router/Switch. As said above - a lot of people with Modem/Router combos seem to run into more issues than not - with a lot of basic configuration changes. Such as Port Forwarding, etc. But - mileage varies depending on the user.

As for a suggested Router? Oh boy.. that depends on how hardcore you want to go. A lot of people give NETGEAR some flak, but they've been killing it lately in their Quality Control and market. I'll give you a few to go by, depending on how intense you want to go.


NETGEAR Nighthawk R7000

u/ViralRiot · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Buy a new router that has uPnP. I have two XB1s and probably going to get a third. I have this router and once I set it up about 3 months ago, I have never had any issues.

u/Sad_Broccoli · 2 pointsr/NYYankees

This is what I have, it's old and I bought it in 2015, but it's a beast. When this thing dies, I'm going to get a newer version.

u/ThtJstHapnd · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I am pretty sure mine is a v2. I have not had an issue with firmware updates as mine got an update recently. My version I actually got on Amazon for $80 under used. I have had not one problem with the router. Wish I could say the same with my internet(Spectrum). Lol.

I have never had an issue like yours. I think back in those days they were different chips and when they upgraded a version it wasn't backwards compatible. I think that's fixed now since the Nighthawk series is open source. Open source is great because you can flash your own firmware from Dd-wrt is great I just haven't had a reason to use a secondary firmware as I've had no issues at all.

NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (R7000) with Open Source Support. Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa

u/Chuck_Yeager_ · 2 pointsr/Chattanooga
(refurb. version of this, I would recommend this)

If you don't want refurb, and you don't want to spend $150, then this should work, just not QUITE as well.

u/IDDQD-IDKFA · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

6141 is old, but is generally rock solid. If the issue recurs with a brand new modem, it's likely still in the line. Did you return the other 6141?

The 6183 absolutely supports IPv6, but even if it didn't, that's not a deal breaker anyway. Several folks I know have 6183s and have no issues with them.

Get a Nighthawk.

u/SPD-13 · 2 pointsr/wireless

I literally just resolved this problem myself. I live in a 6-7 apartment unit outside boston and each one has a comcast router on 2.4GHz. I can count 20 available networks and on a wireless spectrum map I couldn't distinguish one from another. From literally 5 feet away we were pulling 2-3 Mbps down and paying for 120.

I only ended up fixing it with a bust ass 5GHz router. I went with the Nighthawk AC1900 and it's solved everything -- on 5GHz channel we get 70-80 down and even on 2.4 we can get internet in the basement from the top floor and can range from 15-40 down on a less busy day.

u/FatPhil · 2 pointsr/wireless

ok. I get it. if I'm going to be buying a router I should buy an AC model so I could future proof myself. everyone is suggesting the ac66u, but if I'm going to spend $150 to future proof myself, I'd rather pony up an extra $50+ to get the best available router out right now.

so from my research I noticed that the ASUS AC87U is pretty neat (sorry about the ASUS love but I am basing my research off of mainly one article and the author, at the time of writing, really loved the ASUS routers).

ASUS model:

is this a good option or is there a better, cheaper option? would the ac66u suffice? would this linksys be a better alternative?


or maybe even a nighthawk?

anyways I'm just wondering how do those compare to the router you've suggested? which is the best today? is it worth it to go for the ac87u even though it's still $250 or am I better off going for the $200 routers?

u/Dark_Prism · 2 pointsr/funny

The main issue is that the rental modems they give you are cheap and don't support DOCSIS 3.0. This is the one I got. It's going to pay for itself in 10 months since I was paying $8 a month to rent their shitty one.

Most wifi routers will be fine, but I got a pretty expensive one because I'm in a very long apartment with a lot of walls in between the cable entry and the farther room.

When I got the new modem, my up-time went from dropping once a week to not dropping at all. My speed increased as well. I'm on a 50mbps plan and before I was getting around 20-22mbps and now consistently get 25-29mbps. The new router basically just made my wifi signal never drop, ever, thanks to high transmit power and beam forming.

u/pmmguy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

for you:
Need: 10 Mbps in small studio.

Option-1 (Seperate Modem + Router):
SB6141 or
TC7610 modem
or CM400 Modem

with TPlink AC1200 (pretty cheap)
or a better Archer C7

Option-2 (all-in-one):
you can choose C6220 which is AC1200 Combo

It does not have great range but good enough for small studio

For your GF:
Option-1 (seperate Modem + Router):
SB6183 is better for 100 Mbps
and R7000 AC1900 or R6700 (R7000 strongly recommended)

Option-2 (all-in-one):
for a big 4BR house, go with C7000. It has pretty good range

let me know if you have questions

u/TRAPTACTICS · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I recommend hard wiring as others have said, pretty much your best bet. If you are really hard set on using wifi, I'd recommend buying your own router and modem. 1. Saves you money in the long run instead of paying that monthly fee. 2. xfinity routers are okay but I recommend getting an ac router. Here's a top rated router -> as always do your research, hope this helps!

u/letmebehealthy · 2 pointsr/centurylink

Hey OP like /u/SprintLTE said earlier, no need for the modem, I had piss-poor packet-loss with the C2100T and the C3000z.

I opted for the R6700 nighthawk router but to my dismay, suffered from a huge discord voice bug. Returned and have been sitting pretty with the ASUS RT-68U.

It does all the necessary VLAN tagging and PPPoE.

What I love about it is the ease of use, reception, and how fucking EASY the UI is compared to most modems. Additionally I find that router restarts for updating settings are much quicker. Honestly my favorite router.

I do frequent speed-tests with this router, and here are my results:

Anything below 800Mbps are over wifi, any over 800Mbps are wired ethernet over CAT 6

u/suddenlyissoon · 2 pointsr/Chattanooga

You can get one through EPB but I wouldn't recommend it. I'd suggest this one:

I have the AC66u version and it's a champ and my Macbook Pro can download over wireless AC throughout my house at 300mb/s.

Although the Netgear Nighthawk AC1900 is pretty nice as well. Both routers have gigabit capability and provide wireless AC (to any wireless devices you might have that run wireless AC).

As BoozeDelivery said, if you don't have any newer wireless devices you can get by just buying a gigabit capable router with Wireless N that will be cheaper.

u/icaruscoil · 2 pointsr/beaverton

Another vote for Frontier here, I've got 75 up/down and it's been solid. I pay like $60 a month.

I got this Asus router because their included router is junk though.

u/overthemountain · 2 pointsr/technology

The other end of that is you spend ~ $100 or so and buy a good modem (I like the Motorla Surfboard) and watch as you start to actually get the advertised speeds or better.

Go one step further and buy a nice router (I use the ASUS RT-AC68U) and get those same speeds over WiFi as well. I can hit nearly 60 Mbps over WiFi on our 50 Mbps business plan with Comcast at the office.

u/SaiyanOfDarkness · 2 pointsr/Comcast

I would recommend a wireless AC router at minimum.. something with decent range. One of the best routers out now is the Asus RT-AC5300 Pretty pricey, but does a hell of a job.

What I currently use is the RT-AC68U. No router's aren't going to be cheap, no matter how you look at it. However going with at least an AC router prepares you for future internet upgrades. If you really want to get prepared for whatever comes down the road years from now.. Look into a Wireless AD router. Not many out currently. I think TP-Link has the first and only one out at the moment.

Depending on your speed you are paying for. The SB6183 modem would be just fine in most cases.

u/210w105a · 2 pointsr/barstoolsports

Yeah nevermind, the Nighthawk was what I installed at my parents' for them. I have an Asus router as well, this guy. The single-router solution was also important for my parents, as they have a bunch of Sonos speakers set up and it needed to be on the same network for consistency's sake.

I assume yours is a dual band (pushes out a 5G and a 2.4G signal) router? If you don't already, I'd make sure that the devices further into the back of the house are on the 2.4G signal, since the waves of that band are not as wide and therefore travel better at longer distances/through surfaces better than a 5G signal. Another solution would be to buy yourself a long CAT-6 ethernet cable on Amazon and run it along a wall or something so that you can set your router up in a more centralized location in the house. It doesn't have to simply be right next to your modem. Even moving the router into an area with a few more direct lines of sight would do wonders.

A mesh network will ultimately be the more ideal set up, but it'll mean you'll unfortunately have to configure an entirely new wireless network, which will be a pain. I am pretty sure you should be able to buy a similar Asus router and create a mesh network with your existing router, but I guarantee it will be an annoyance to set up compared to a fresh mesh network designed for such a setup.

u/WhyDoesDaddyDrink · 2 pointsr/Vent

Comcast is the fucking worst, on a global scale. I try to not support them whenever I can because they work to pass legislature to restrict liberty and enable mass surveillance, but that's a whole different rant.

Here's what I did that made me a lot happier when I moved to town whose ISP options were Comcast or fist yourself:
I cut the cable cord years ago, and replaced it with Netflix, torrenting, and being okay with watching shows a day after they come out.

When I got Comcast I got Comcast Business: better customer support, priority service, no data caps, better speeds, and for a marginally higher price. They ask you what your business is, so you can kind of tell them whatever. They don't check your tax ID or anything. They try like hell to upsell you to a 100MB/s plan but just insist in the 16MB/s, you really don't need more.

NEVER use comcasts routers or modems. They're garbage and they charge you like 10$ a month for shitty equipment that cost $30 in the first place. It's a higher upfront cost, but your internet won't drop and you'll actually get the speed you're paying for. Here's what I bought for Comcast:
MODEM - Arris Surfboard SB6141

Both were super easy to set up and have been kicking ass ever since.

Also, anything the tech can do for you short of refreshing your signal or processing your bill payment, you can probably look up on google.

Sorry to hear you had to deal with their bullshit.

u/obikatsu · 2 pointsr/gadgets

get ASUS! either the RT-AC66U posted above or the RT-AC68U (what I have)

I had the prior generation of Netgear routers before (WNDR3700) and one of the WiFi radios just died out on me overnight, this thread on the netgear forums explained exactly what happened to mine and confirms that it is a pretty common issue

u/bluntrollin · 2 pointsr/gadgets

I know this is double your budget but trust me, I have dicked around with $100~ routers for too long and I just said fuck it. I'm dropping $200 and not wasting anymore time. This will cover your entire home with strong signal, and your mobile devices will get full bars as well. Its future proofed for AC. Its the shit.

u/_prasket · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I have a seen a few recommendation for the Netgear Nighthawk but in the last year Netgear has started making all their models call home and send info.

I recommend ASUS 1900ac, I used them for home and gaming for a long time and I have put them into lots of small business offices.

u/Phr057 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'm a fan of the ASUS AC1750 and the ASUS AC1900 for general home use. If you want more bells and whistles like mesh capability, MU-MIMO, etc. You'll be paying a bit more money, but you can take a look at Orbi, Netgear and Google for mesh capabilities if you want to go that route.

Additionally, if you want to save some money in the long run, you can buy your own modem. ISPs generally (I'm not sure about Cable America) charge you between $8-$10 a month to use lease their modem. I'm assuming it is a cable modem with a coaxial cable coming in through the back? If it is, you can pick up one of these and install it. It pays itself off generally in 8 months.

These are much higher quality than what the ISP provides and all you have to do is shoot your provider a call and let them know you are setting up a new modem and would like to return theirs. All they need is the MAC address on the box!

u/Yobo123o · 2 pointsr/techsupport

If you are 100% settled between the two of these I would say the TP-Link router. I recommend this due to the external antennas being able to provide better range. However if you are open to suggestions I would recommend this router as I personally own it and have no problems with it.

u/boblank · 2 pointsr/Humboldt


f your still have issues try a coax signal booster.

u/HerrSIME · 2 pointsr/Clickshaming For a small home this will do the trick. Just connect this to your modem and follow the automatic setup. I use it since 2016 and it never failed me. And then make sure your internet provider makes sure that you get proper internet. If you have fiber there is no excuse for speeds that are not what you pay for.

u/OppositeFingat · 2 pointsr/Romania

Tocmai mi-am cumparat un router ASUS RT-AC68U. I-am comparat pretul cu cel de pe amazon. 500 fata de 700 e bine.

Imi mai trebuie un set de boxe 2.1.

u/manarius5 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Not sure why you would want a router that has an annual license fee (as any Meraki piece of equipment does).

Are you just looking for a solid home use wireless router? If so, my vote goes to this Asus AC-68U router

u/paperbackgarbage · 2 pointsr/thedivision

I'd highly recommend shelling out some scratch for a new router/modem, especially for playing a server-based game like this.

These are what I use:

Router, but mine is a refurb


u/KiLiTLi · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Thank you for the info! Follow up question. What's the difference between that T-Mobile one and one of these?

u/Paintballer19 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Mind saying what exact problems your having with the nighthawk? Maybe we can help you out?

If not the asus Ac routers are very good.

u/zer06ame · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Just FYI, reduced the price of the AC68U from $199.99 back down to $169.99.

Not sure how long it will last, so I'd jump if you were set on buying at least 1x AC68U.

u/Sir_Killington · 2 pointsr/WWII

If you do play on wifi, you at least want a decent router. You can't cheap out, or you will be losing packets, and lagging. The cheapest one I would suggest using is the: ASUS AC1900

u/IamNotWrong- · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What I meant is, if your phone, computers, etc. are old, then you can't expect 200Mbps throughput.

I have an SB6141 and

Works well. If you are a t-mobile customer you can get the router for free as long as you are a customer.

u/jakemg · 2 pointsr/funny

It's just one brand of Asus router. It's actually this one with some software tweaks to prioritize wifi calls.

u/jonboy345 · 2 pointsr/computertechs

Over in /r/HomeNetworking the TP Link Archer C7 gets recommended a lot.

I'd also recommend the ASUS RT-AC66U or the RT-AC68U.

If those don't fit the need, can always check out Small Net Builder's router chooser.

Edit: Above recommendations are for a DIY solution for the client. If it's in the budget and the knowledge is there, I'd absolutely recommend a Ubiquiti Edgerouter Lite + Ubiquiti AC AP's.

u/ToadSox34 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I'd get a DOCSIS 3.1 modem for 400mbps. If you don't want to, avoid 32x8 modems, as they are Puma 6. I guess you could run 400mbps on a 24x8, but if there is congestion, your connection will slow down a lot more than with a DOCSIS 3.1 modem.


Comcast has various deals and bundles, so if 400mbps is included or cheaper than 250mbps for a year, go for it, but after that, know that 250mbps and 400mbps are basically the same thing, as most CDNs can't push out 400mbps anyway, and they both have the same puny 10mbps upload, which is much more of a limit than the download.


With WiFi 6 starting to come out, but not well established, I wouldn't spend more than $150-$200 TOPS on a WiFi 5 router, and upgrade in a few years if you need to. The ASUS RT-AC68U is several years old now, but still can push 300mbps+ out and is a good router.


u/anothercookie90 · 2 pointsr/tmobile

T-mobile has a router and a signal booster to help with coverage issues.

The router is this one covered in T-mobile branding
Call into support and ask for the cellspot router for wifi calling. It is $25 with deposit for postpaid users although I don't think any has actually paid the fee usually it's waived, if you want to own it it's $99 which is a lot cheaper than buying that specific router on your own. If you don't want to own it, you get to keep it as long as you are a T-mobile customer.

It works just like any other router, plug it into the modem follow installation instructions and you have wifi.

u/medikit · 2 pointsr/tmobile

I own the regular version of this:

Does this offer me any advantages other than price?

u/AMBocanegra · 2 pointsr/xboxone

You need a separate modem and router. Gateways that combo the two will pretty much guaranteed not give you the full speed you're paying for.

The kind of router you want is gonna be one of the higher end dual band routers. With the amount of connections is recommend one of the flagship models from ASUS or Linksys even.

Heres the router I have:

Essentially a dual band gigabit router. One of the cooler functions is that it supports the newest wireless band which is significantly faster than the current standard (though not many things use it yet). Future proofing, basically.

It supports my house fine, with 2 laptops, 2 wired desktops, 3 smartphones, my 360, xb1, smart tv, Blu ray player, you get the idea. It handles heavy loads well. I recommend it if you're interested in a good investment into a router.

Hope that helped a bit. :)

u/Blakmagik12 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Alright so,

I have 1gig internet (supposedly), and I'm getting serious packet loss and lag on any online game right now with my new rig.



I pinged my router and had no packet loss or issues. This is happening on both wired and wireless connections. Even if my SO is streaming Hulu/Netflix I would have thought the internet and hardware i bought would prevent this issue...

u/Arkanian410 · 2 pointsr/Acadiana

If you're getting the 1000x1000 LUS package, be warned that most consumer grade routers simply cannot handle that much bandwidth. ASUS routers can. I've specifically been using this ASUS RT-AC68U for a few years and it has been rock solid. Much more reliable than any of the Cisco, Netgear, DLink routers i've used over the years. I've yet to have an instance of needing to reboot it to magically fix any connectivity issues, and it can do a decent job of QoS, albeit it's QoS processing is limited to about 20% of the bandwidth of my connection (if you're using QoS that is)

u/nduval · 2 pointsr/vita

Just did a speed test here at work: 7d/8u

And at home: 28d/5.7u

I use this router, which I actually got just for the purpose of remote play (my old router did not support UPnP)

I stress that the PS4 needs to be plugged into the router. At least, this is so in my case. Though, you may also need to specify to use a wired connection and not wireless on the PS4.

u/firedfromcomcast · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I would suggest to get the Motorola Surfboard 6141 or the Surfboard 6183

And one of these routers

It's not cheap having a decent setup. I personally have the Motorola Surfboard 6141 with a really nice router But I also live with 4 other guys and we usually have about 20 devices connected via wifi.

u/GTR128 · 2 pointsr/homelab

You can get an Edgerouter Lite (ERL-3), 2 UAP-AC-Lites, and an unmanaged gigabit switch to stay within your budget easily.

I have ubiquiti products at 2 sites, and have had no issues. Also the AC-Lites use Passive PoE which not all PoE switches have so you will more than likely just get a non-PoE (unless you need it for something else), and run the power injectors.

u/michrech · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Depending on the size of the house, I'd suggest a couple Ubiquiti UAP-AC-Lites or PRO's (depending on if any 3x3 devices will be in use), and depending on your level of network experience, I'd back those up with either an Edgerouter Lite or USG. The USG and the UAP-AC-*'s are both configured through the UniFi Controller software, where the Edgerouter Lite has its own web interface. The have the same hardware 'under the hood', but the USG is easier to manage for more novice folks. I have a USG + UAP-AC-Lite in my house. If you were to go this route, you'll need to include a network switch (if you don't already have one) so you'll have enough ports for any devices that are wired plus any WAPs you install. I wouldn't use routers as WAPs, as many of them (especially older routers) just aren't as good as dedicated WAPs. ;)

u/EvanKaplan20 · 2 pointsr/BeermoneyHomeNetwork

Just to make sure I understand... you're going to have it be modem>erx>1 port of the erx>AC PRO and another port from the erx>1 hardwired pc and that'll be for the entire main house?

(which should be fine as long as the house isn't huge and there aren't people on the complete other side of it)

Then from a 3rd port in the erx>long cat5>switch in the garage>few ports of switch>hard wired pcs and a different port of switch>AC Lite for your wireless beermoney phones?

That should all work and be fine... my only suggestions would be to possibly get an an edgerouter lite instead of the ERX because it can handle ALOT more devices and also supports multiple public IPs should you ever decide to expand your farm. Also instead of the AC Lite... consider an AC PRO for the beermoney garage phones as they will handle 25 wireless devices simultaneously streaming video better than a lite. Although a lite could work so if the $50 difference is a lot for you, you could get away with the lite. As for the switch, if you DON'T need to assign IPs to any of your pcs or the ap in the garage... an unmanaged switch will be fine. I have a few netgear gs205 switches for my home setup and they work great. The 5 port model is 15 bucks and the 8 port is 20. However if you DO need to assign IPs.. you will need a managed switch.. and those can be a bit pricey.. like 100-180 bucks.

EDIT: Also another suggestion would be to put the 2 APs on different channels, especially if there are alot of houses in your surrounding area. You can download a wifi analyzer app on your smartphone and it'll search for the signals in your area and tell you what channels they're on.. you can then set your APs to be on different channels than those so they dont interfere with each other... that will be done through the ubiquiti uniFi management thing that you have to use to set up the APs in the first place. (They come with detailed instructions)

Also i saw you say that having the beermoney phones in the house is ideal but you cant. If you cant for personal reasons then i understand but if its for network reasons you could put them in the house if you'd like! The set up would just be modem>erx>switch>1 port of switch>hardwired pc in main house, 1 port of switch>AC Pro for main house, 1 port of switch>another AC Pro for the 25 beermoney phones (again on different channels), and then 1 port of switch>long cable to your garage>another switch>your laptops and pcs!

u/RussianBrooklyn · 2 pointsr/BeermoneyHomeNetwork

Rule of thumb with ALL consumer brand routers is that they are specifically designed for speed and not for handling large amounts of devices. even the biggest baddest most powerful router on the market that would cost you over $600 is designed to provide you with extremely fast download/upload speed but wont be able to stably handle more then a dozen devices.

The speed of the router has nothing to do with how many devices you can connect to it.

If you want to connect dozens upon dozens of devices. The only way to do that is with a non consumer brand router. like this one then a access point like this one

in total it cost me about $160 total and i have 40 devices connected and they are running none stop, they have not dropped the signal once in over a year since i bought them and the speed is very stable

u/FirstTimeCaller101 · 2 pointsr/NYYankees

I just bought a router like a month ago, AMA.

I got this one My speeds went from like 15mbps down to like 120mbps because I was being throttled by my shitty 15 year old router lol.

u/FlyingSentry · 2 pointsr/UCI
  1. Use an eithernet cord

  2. Get a good WiFi router

  3. Cox is garbage and has horrible reliability and they need to fix their shit or ACC should find a different business ISP.

    I am at Norte, 292 building, and I get up to 50 MegaBYTES per second (400 Megabits). I know that 285 has a huge slowdown issue. Call Cox and complain, the more people, the more "urgent". I use this WiFi router:
u/ResidentStevil28 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm pretty much in the same boat as you (except I have 2 hardwired devices as well) and just purchased the TP-Link AC1750, . The other choice I was looking at was the low end Nighthawk, .

The nighthawk has a few more options control wise in its software and a bit beefier hardware but for simple router usage the TP-Link should be fine, several of my coworkers recommended this one, THO, one of them said when the Dual Band is on that his phone would drop the wifi until he left just the 5ghz band on, but my other coworkers didn't notice this issues.

u/austin12block · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

The other comments are correct. Just thought I would add that when someone is looking for a cheap sub-$100 router, I usually recommend this:

u/DelusionYT · 2 pointsr/AskTech

What is happening is your Wifi Router isn't strong enough to handle so much devices using so much Wifi at once.Try Buying a stronger Wifi router.

Check out this Router for a fix


also make sure the plug you are using still works fine...It might be just that or even both problems.

Goodluck in Advance

u/Gumburcules · 2 pointsr/washingtondc

So it looks like Fios is available in Georgetown. If you're just looking for internet I'd recommend their 300Mbps package at a minimum, but with 5 people splitting it I would probably go for the gigabit for $79.99 a month. If you want TV, they have bundles with TV for an extra $20 or $30 a month. I would go with at least the "extreme TV package" if you want TV, because their "preferred" is nothing but Home shopping network and religious crap. If you do Fios, this modem is only $90 on Amazon and can handle speeds up to 1.7 gigabits.

If you're going the cable internet route, Google your modem's specific model number to see what DOCSIS version it is. If it's 3.1, you're good to go with any cable internet package. If it's 3.0, you can still use it with any package up to 550Mbps, but anything over that and you'll be paying for more bandwidth than your modem can handle. If it's 2.0 or below, you need a new modem. If you do need a new modem, just google "DOCSIS 3.1 cable modem" and take your pick.

For cable internet, I recommend RCN. They definitely service Georgetown It looks like they've got a great deal going on right now for gigabit internet and TV for $79.99 a month. That's probably going to be your best bet.

Between moving and switching providers to get a better deal, I've bought internet in DC and set up home networks probably a dozen times by now, so if you have any questions about the process or need help setting anything up feel free to message me anytime.

u/MericaMofoUSA · 2 pointsr/TriCitiesWA

You will want your own modem. You may have a $5/month charge for their modem. Or, if you have an older modem, it's probably free.


You can check Charter's approved modems I bought a ARRIS SURFboard that was approved by Charter and drastically improved speeds. You'll also want a wireless router, since the SURFboard doesn't have wireless capabilities. I got a Netgear Nighthawk that has been an excellent router for streaming to multiple TVs and gaming.

u/UnkleMike · 2 pointsr/PFSENSE

There's this for $30.

u/wwabc · 2 pointsr/iphonehelp

get a little travel router, hide the ssid, no one will care

u/_Rogue_Shadow_ · 2 pointsr/Hue

For anyone else reading this, you can just get a cheap router like this and use it to convert WiFi to Ethernet.

u/Archer_37 · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

It does need a wired network connection.

That said, you could also get some sort of Wifi Bridge and use that to connect back to the wifi.

But unless you have some killer wireless, Streaming this will use a fair bit of bandwidth.

u/frozen_mercury · 2 pointsr/mildlyinteresting

This is correct. Even better if you carry a travel router like this. You can create your own access point, and clone the MAC address of one of your phone or laptops in your router settings. When you will connect to this new access point you will be redirected to the same login page but if you login using the device whose MAC address you spoofed in the router, any other device can access internet without the need to log in. When you have to login, just use the same device.

u/red286 · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
u/trekkie1701c · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

I have one of these. It works fairly well, and on top of providing ethernet out (which you can hook the server in to, or a switch if you need more than one port), it creates its own wifi network, so you'd be able to have your own LAN separate from the university network and more easily access the server without worrying about any blocking or other shenanigans they might do.

u/HornyPrincePineapple · 2 pointsr/smarthome

You can use a travel router to rebroadcast your phone hotspot with a new SSID and connect everything to that. Then your phone will only see 1 device effectively connected.

u/Cool-Beaner · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

This is the answer.

The on-board tiny little WiFi with it tiny little antenna works, but it doesn't give much throughput. I have used something like this in the past. It really made a big difference in performance. This also looks interesting.

While the WiFi chip is your biggest bottleneck, the OS will slow you down some. There is too much going on in the background. Try a stripped down OS like DietPi, Minibian, or Raspbian Lite.

Realistically, as /u/bobstro said, just get a travel router.

u/harakan2 · 2 pointsr/Hue

Many wireless repeaters/range extenders have an Ethernet port you can use for this purpose; just configure it into client mode, join the repeater to the normal WiFi network, and plug the Hue hub into the repeater's Ethernet port.

Just one random example:

u/danskeman · 2 pointsr/Windows10
  1. Simply try deleting driver (not updating) and then rebooting

  2. buy a different wifi adaptor and try that.

  3. If that does not work, try a repair upgrade ie downloading iso, double clicking on it and running setup.exe. Backup valuable data in case crap happens.

  4. If all else fails, a work around is to buy a small travel router like

    Then you can bridge link this to your wifi, and connect it to pc via internet slot.
u/Cabut · 2 pointsr/pelotoncycle

Buy something like this:

The box connects to your wifi, and you can then connect your bike to the box.

u/skeeezicks · 2 pointsr/PLC

I use one of these from a recommendation of other users on here and its fantastic.



Plug this into the network switch in the control panel and have access to the PLC, HMI, VFD, etc withouth being tethered to something with a Ethernet cable.

u/SathedIT · 2 pointsr/PleX

Short of hard wiring, that's probably your only option. Wireless USB is going to have a higher latency. Not to mention, internal vs USB simply work different. USB polls while your internal card generates interrupts.

If you truly want it wireless and you don't want to swap your internal card, try investing in a repeater/AP that you can wire over ethernet to your laptop. Something like this.

u/massivescoop · 2 pointsr/Roku

If this is all you want to do, you can try a pocket router like tp-link's for under $30. It might be harder than getting your RA's approval. Some school's require you to register devices to use Ethernet. If so, they won't approve the MAC address of a router.

u/AF0105 · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Maybe this little AP will work for you? TL-WR802N It's harder to find them with AC, but I don't think you'll need it with your appliction for it.

u/hockeythug · 2 pointsr/Hue

Put it in client mode, connect it to your wifi network, plug your hub into it, and you will be good to go.

u/TarableCode · 2 pointsr/VintageApple

I used this one for a while, works pretty well:

u/gaso · 2 pointsr/pihole

That's very tidy looking! I've been thinking of mounting everything in our closet on plywood but haven't gotten to it yet. It is...embarrassing so I won't share a picture heh...

I hear very good things about EdgeRouter X, and they're ~$50. Haven't used one myself yet.

Another link to the ping plotter results:

u/niosop · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

Something like should work if you're on a budget. We're using the UniFi version to connect two sites, works well for both site-to-site and client VPNs, but since you probably don't want to spin up a controller just for that, the EdgeRouters are self contained.

u/TouchofRed · 2 pointsr/pihole

You can get an Edge Router X for a little over $50. It's a great router/firewall but it does require some technical experience as there's not much hand holding.

u/simplyclueless · 2 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

What we've done is put everything that matters on the main network, and everything that doesn't matter on the guest network. That includes the IOT type devices, true guests/friends that come by, etc.

If you like the Google Wifi performance/security, but want to add more network segmentation, you could always add something like an Edgerouter X ($50) downstream of the Google Wifi puck. Create a completely separate network or networks behind it, and all the Google Wifi box sees is a single IP coming from it.

We've been through quite a few different wireless setups over the past few years, including ones much more pricey and complex than the Google setup, but nothing comes close to its reliability, ease of use, and performance throughout the house. Going back to a standard router + extenders would seem like the dark ages at this point. It's also fun not having to tweak router settings every week or two as things crop up; it just works.

u/danielcbaldwin · 2 pointsr/usenet

I had the same issue, I am not sure what the best solution is, I just switched to a new router. Specifically this one:

Had no issues after the switch.

u/foodnguns · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

are you getting comcasts phone or are you planing to use voice over IP?

If your getting comcasts phone your options are limited to modems that support it.

If voice over ip,then no restrictions really modem wise.

If your getting comcasts phone,then atleast new, I dont see any modems that can support 400 mbps and voice in your range

If your not getting comasts phone then

Something like

plus some cabling should be right around $300

that gets you a cable modem that can support your 400 mbps,a router that can route that fast with 2 open lan ports and an access point for wifi.

You can do 400 mbps over Ethernet on this set up,400 over wifi I imagine would be possible in the very best of conditions.

u/DexTsarII · 2 pointsr/ShieldAndroidTV

If you feel adventures, this is the best for the buck. Difficult to configure if you are not tech savvy, but very good and comes with all types of enterprise features without additional licensing.

u/stonecats · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

get both dsl and cell and wan+wan them together before any wifi endpoints.
consistently set all your streaming down to 720p to conserve bandwidth.

u/_kroy · 2 pointsr/homelab

Well, you definitely don’t need anything that fancy. I would never recommend an ASA, especially for that one.

This guy can easily do gigabit. Though Mikrotik has a bit of a learning curve.

The ERXs can do gigabit as well, and can easily set up a DMZ.

If you have an old computer, you can also install VyOS/pfsense/opnsense. A DMZ is just a fairly straightforward firewall configuration.

u/Tymanthius · 2 pointsr/CoxCommunications

How tech savy are you?

But consider this - $8/mo for 12 months is 96.

A good reliable DOCSIS 3.1 modem (only modem, not router) is $170 on amazon today. That's less than 2 years and modems tend to live a long time unless you have lots of lightening.

Now lets add a router - we'll get fancy and do EdgeRouter & Unifi Wifi Access Point.

Edgerouter is $60, and a UniFi AP that will cover MOST households better than a Linksys is 100.

So you spent $330 up front for a REALLY good system. If it lasts you 4.78 years you broke even. Mine has lasted me 2 years already thru mulitple storms in the gulf coast. Well, teh modem isn't that old b/c I had a non gigabit for a while as we didn't have that option.

u/GoingOffRoading · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This! Sort of...

For one, you will need a cable modem:

  • $45 NETGEAR CM400-1AZNAS Cable Modem 8x4 Bonded Channels
  • $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels
  • $100 NETEAR CM700 Cable Modem 32x8 Bonded Channels

    Why multiple options and price-points?

    In a nutshell, download and upload bonded channels supports how much up and down bandwidth your cable modem would have. 8 (8 download) x4 (4 upload) theoretically supports 340 Mbps download and whatever upload speed. My current 2x2 supports 125+ Mbps download.

    Why get something beefier? You will get slightly better performance if each bonded channel isn't operating near it's ceiling. With Comcast, they have 16 and 24 download channels in most markets so that will help with your overall connection. Also having 24 or 32 download channels will help you break through speed barriers if Comcast offers faster connection speeds in the future.

    Personal Note: I pay for 100/10 from Comcast and bought the $90 NETEAR CM600-100NAS Cable Model 24x8 Bonded Channels for my new home. While the theoretical download speed from the modem far out paces what I will get from Comcast, the new modem will take full advantage of the 24 bonded download channels in my area.

    Then you will need a router. With Ubiquiti, you can really go with one of two router options:

  • ~$50 Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X
  • ~$100 Ubiquiti Unifi Security Gateway 9USG

    There's a lot of YouTube videos that will explain the differences between each router. The short version is that they use the same hardware and have all of the same features available if enabled over command line but:

  • The EdgeRouter X has more features available in it's existing UI, CAN be powered by POE and is less prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. The Edgerouter also has a built in switch (if you want) and POE passthrough so you can do: Cable Modem -> POE Power Injector -> EdgeRouter -> Ubiquiti Access Point (more on this shortly)
  • The USG has fewer features in the UI than the Edgerotuer, CAN NOT be powered by POE and is more prone to crashing when making changes over CLI. What the USG does have is full integration into the Unifi family of products which means you can manage the router over the cloud along with any other Unifi product like your access points (APs... We'll get to them in a minute).

    Personal Note: I bought the EdgeRouter X because the price point is so good. This thing EASILY out performs my Linksys WRT 1900 AC or any other Linksys, Asus, etc. routers that I have ever owned. With that said, I will never fully leverage all of the controls in the UI and I wish I had gone with the USG as it integrates with the Unifi cloud stuff. I will eventually switch to a Unifi router.

    Then you will need an Access Point (AP) to create an access point for your devices:

  • $75 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-Lite Lite
  • $100 Ubiquiti Unifi UAP-AC-LR Long Range
  • $130 Ubiquiti Unifi UPA-AC-Pro Pro

    If you get the EdgeRouter X, get a UAP-AC-Lite. They both operate off of 24v so you can do Cable Modem -> 24v POE power injector (comes with the UAP-AC-Lite) -> EdgeRouter X -> UAP-AC-Lite. This is what I have now.

    You can upgrade to the UAP-AC-LR which has the longest range of all of the Ubiquiti APs or the UAP-AC-LR because of it's 3x3 MIMO which gives it a higher input/output than the rest of the Ubiquiti 2x2 MIMO. The latter two devices use 48v POE injectors.

    Personal Note: I'm using two UAP-AC-Lites in my current two story home and will transition to four in my new three story home. Even at the cheapest price point, these far out perform the other routers and access points that I have ever owned.
u/pLuhhmmbuhhmm · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Would you say this is a better option?

Ubiquiti EdgeRouter X + Ubiquiti Unifi Ap-AC Lite + gigabit switch


Just get a Mikrotik hAP AC?

u/captmonkey · 2 pointsr/Chattanooga

I have the gig. I have tons of Steam games and they all download ridiculously fast. It takes a couple of minutes for the big ones and it's to the point where the install process is almost always longer than the download. I really only keep the ones I'm currently playing installed, because if I want to play something else, I just download it again.

If there's ever a problem with streaming video (very rare), I know it's probably the site rather than my connection. Google Music uploads my stuff in the background faster than I can check if it uploaded.

One annoyance I encounter (though not as common now as it was a year ago when I first got the gig) is that many servers just can't handle it. So, even though I have the capability to download hundreds of times faster, some servers still just give me some paltry 5Mb/s download because that's all most people have anyway.

Oh, and if you're downloading some totally legal files from the torrents, they go fast even when you're downloading several and playing an online game at the same time. And like that other guy said, make sure your router than handle a gig. And don't expect the same speed from wireless as ethernet because that technology at the consumer level just doesn't exist yet. Some routers will advertise that kind of speed, but in practice it's just not going to happen, especially if you live in an area with lots of other wireless routers to cause interference (like a neighborhood or apartment).

u/smashadages · 2 pointsr/PS4

1. For fear of advertising my own thread... you may find these tips useful on improving your PS4 speeds. I basically had the same problem as you. I was getting 42 mbps download wired on my macbook and about 5 mbps wireless. The PS4 was getting maybe 20 mbps wired and 4 wireless. (Both wireless devices were about 10 yards from my router.) I vastly improved my speeds with the tips from my post. Hope that helps!

2. Since then, I've done two things because I had a little money to spend ($150 to be exact). I bought a new router to improve my speeds to my wireless devices and I bought a wireless bridge to my PS4. I'm now getting about 30 mbps on my PS4 when I was only getting 4 to begin with.

So #1 helps if you have no money to spend and #2 helps if you have some. If anything, I recommend just buying the $30 wireless bridge because it gives you a wired connection.

Good luck!

u/redditcats · 2 pointsr/technology

You should ditch that monthly cable modem rental and buy a better modem. This one works with Spectrum (I have spectrum) Buy this modem

Once you get it, call spectrum and tell them you no longer want to rent their crap and that you have a new modem. Then you tell them the MAC address on the bottom of the new modem. Send the old modem back to Spectrum (fuck them)

Then for WiFi get this.
Then, connect a network cable from the network port on the back of the modem to the WAN port on the back of the ASUS router. Then setup your wireless network by logging into the router (read setup, connect a network cable to one of the 4 network ports on the back of the router and connect it to your PC. (You can remove this once you set up the wifi network if your PC is wireless)

Trust me, you will be much happier with the speeds you get and the increased WiFi range (plus the addition of multiple wifi networks you can broadcast on different frequencies.) If you are in a congested area you can use the 5ghz band and it should be a lot less crowded. Plus way more bandwidth (Wifi range of 5ghz doesnt go as far as 2.4ghz but you can run both networks anyways)

If you end up doing this (highly recommended) you can PM me with any questions.

If you ever move, you obviously now have a bad ass router and modem. Never rent a modem from these fucks.

u/Pulgoso_ · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

Thanks for the suggestion, I think I will just buy a new router since it will benefit my whole network and be more stable.

I was thinking of purchasing the Asus RT-AC66U as the price is not far off decent powerlines.

Is that an okay router or can you recommend another?


u/Big_0il · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

I'm using an Asus RT-A66u. This is an awesome router. While I ran Cat6 throughout my house about a year ago so use that for streaming, this router allows for a strong wi-fi signal for tablets and phones in all of the rooms of my house, both upstairs and downstairs.

u/candidly1 · 2 pointsr/wireless

I have had a 1900 for quite awhile now and it's a bear; real fast and no issues to speak of (I am also on Comcast; I get around 180Mbps). Pick a price point and there's one for you:

u/randomdude21 · 2 pointsr/msp

Asus Open WRT allows for 3g/4g failover, as well as dual-wan support.

u/Andromansis · 2 pointsr/Comcast

Right off the top of my head the PS3 uses an 802.11G wifi adapter which would lock the WiFi network to an 802.11G mode which would produce speeds in the range of 20 mbps over wifi.

The laptop MAY have the same problem.

So what you would want to do is power down your devices, press and hold the reset button on the back of your modem for 25 seconds to preform a factory reset.

Then power them on and test the speed on your devices in this sequence : ipad 3, ps4, laptop, ps3. Stop testing when speeds fall to 20 MBPS because you have found your culprit. At that point you can look into replacing or retrofitting the device (in the case of the tablets, replacing with newer model, in the case of the other hardware, retrofitting)

Don't ask why it does that, I didn't design it.

Also, depending on how you're testing the speed you could be getting a false positive on the low speeds, as the PS3 and PS4 will test your speeds on the PLAYSTATION network but not actual network speed.

OOKLA has a speedtest app you can download for the ipad and for the PC you would want to use

You mentioned 2 stories, so you may want a wifi extender to extend the signal coverage on the 2nd story (1st story?) and would definitely want a wifi extender if the floorspace of your home is greater than 2000 square foot.

If you really want a dedicated router then you would want one where you could turn DCHP off, and the only ones I am familiar with that have that capability are the ASUS brand, Netgear or Linksys might have that capability but I'm not as familiar with them so they might not. Also apple airports.

For actual specs you would want an 802.11AC unit.


Why would you want something where you could turn DHCP off you ask? Just in case there is a problem with turning DHCP off on your TG862G.

Why would you want 802.11AC? Range.

Now, personally I prefer routers with visible, external antennas, and I'd like 4x4 MIMO which is just a fancy way of saying it has 4 antennas and uses them.

Any followup questions?

u/djrbx · 2 pointsr/LosAngeles

> Asus AC56U

If you can, get the upgraded RT-AC66U

u/Jeep600Grand · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Well, for £100 you're going to get something either not that powerful, or several years old in its production. ASUS has served me well personally, so I tend to like them. This ASUS Router is quite a few years old, but may do the trick for you.

As with any consumer product, you may get one that works perfectly, or you may get one that has a shit ton of issues and drives you crazy. If you do pick the one I linked above, then I assume no liability lol. But in all seriousness, I have gone through many routers in my day, and the ASUS ones just seemed to work better.

u/KenadyDwag44 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Okay then I would stay away from the proprietary Verizon routers and go either with the Archer C7 or the Asus AC-1750.

You will want to use the Ethernet jack that is coming out of your Fios ONT for the routers that I am recommending and if they only set up coaxial, it is an easy phone call to frontier to change it to Ethernet.

I can't speak about much on the TP-Link router but everyone in this community seems to recommend it a lot. I have a Asus router at home and it was really easy to set up as a router with frontier. And when you move the ASUS router can be easily turned into an access point that can extend your wireless easily.

u/brict · 2 pointsr/IAmA

If your speed test over wifi is showing 66Mbps down but you feel like the connection is crawling you probably have latency issues. Have you tried

Does your signal display high strength? It could be that your house is too big?

Do you have a lot of neighbors? You could be transmitting on a crowded channel.

When was the last time you rebooted your router? I know when I used Linksys routers they'd slow to a crawl and I'd just need to reboot them every once in a while.

You could try upgrading to a router with more processing power and antennas

u/jasonr686 · 2 pointsr/wireless

Would this be step up from the Airport Extreme?

Is there anything in the lower end commercial realm that would work?

u/GNUtoReddit · 2 pointsr/wireless
u/dividend · 2 pointsr/KCTech

Any opinions on the ASUS ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router to replace the Netgear 6300 we bought as a first try?

u/Galaxyhiker42 · 2 pointsr/NewOrleans

I bought this

ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router

2 years ago and have half the neighborhood asking if they can use my wireless.

I've got every device in the house split between the 4 signals. (Some on the 2ghz and others in the 5ghz) and I've not had a problem with speed.

It's at the back of my almost 200 year old shotgun and I pick it up when I drive up to my house.

Ditch the shitty rental gear and buy your own. I spent less than 300 bucks over 2 years ago and have not had to change anything yet.

Also tell a customer service rep to eat a bag of dicks generally does not get you far in life.

I recently had trouble with cox and the way things were being directed to a server and with in 15 minutes the problem was mostly cleared up. (There is only so much they can do after the signal has left their network... but they redirected my signal to a better level3 before it left their network.)

Overall I've been happy with cox... frustrated sometimes, but happy. What 3 year relationship does not have its ups and downs.

Especially when AT&T is your other choice and they don't use lube.

u/valumn · 2 pointsr/xboxone
  1. if you are on wireless get a cable and run it to the Xbox to see if you are having the same issue. If not it is a wireless problem. Wireless slows down a lot the more people that are on it and actively using it.

  2. move your Xbox a little. If it is in an enclosed space it might be interferace causing an issue.

  3. Move the power brick away from your console. I had the exact same issue and it was caused by the power brick. Now I have my full 30 /5 connection rather than a 1mbps / 5 mpbs connection. I also had packet loss. The packet loss is most likely not on your ISP side but caused by your wireless / bad cable.

  4. all else fall get a new router. I got an ASUS which is awesome and even has an optimize for Xbox mode. I got the big beefy one but you can drop down a little lower and still have an awesome one without the 5G option.
u/fubar15 · 2 pointsr/pihole

Wow. That is bargain priced. I also came across It seems to have 2x the RAM, but 2 fewer ports. The ports don't concern me much, most of my network is on wifi so would only use 1 port on the ERLite-3 for my home network. It costs a little more, but still under $100.

This is now officially off-topic, so I think I may do some spelunking on /r/networking or /r/homenetworking. Perhaps post a query there and with some luck it won't turn into a religious war.

u/madmanali93 · 2 pointsr/networking

I think the ERL might be my best bet with IPSec. 100Mbps sounds good enough. Although I do have a question about the ERL. On the ubiquiti website link the model sold looks different from the one on amazon link . Would I be fine with getting the one on amazon?

u/KungFuHamster · 2 pointsr/Surface

Yeah I've been thinking about replacing mine, but worried about compatibility. Is that one the consensus best replacement for the Google box?

Is it this one?

u/sec_me_free · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

you're the man.

So Modem to this >

Then from the router to >

One port on that switch to an AP right next to it

another port on that switch to the wire going upstairs hooked up to the other AP.

The AP's I'm looking to get.

let me know how that setup looks. let me know if you think I should go for cat6 cable or whatever. at this point that'd just be a drop in the bucket. Last thing to note. This small home network has a ton of wireless devices. chromecasts out the ass, evryone has a mobile phone and tablet, and laptop. Talking like 40-50 devices going to be on the network. think the router will handle that or should I upgrade it.

u/toomanytoons · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sounds like you've already diagnosed the issue to me, the router is bad. Replace the router. I've had good luck with Asus branded routers the past couple of years, the Asus RT-N12 is a basic wireless router for under $50.00, it should do just fine. If you want something with better wireless and wired performance, the Asus RT-N16 is a good step up, I have one myself, it's never given me any problems.

u/free3d0m · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

here is a 30 dollar asus router that will get the job done.

as for verizon. you wont likely get anything above 25 Mbps from them. They can be pretty quick though for being mobile, but they usually also throttle after a certain usage limit even though you have unlimited service.

u/ChalkButter · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This one?

If so, no, that's not "high powered," that's about 6 generations too old.

You need something like this, with actual oomph and multi-band broadcasting

u/ComptonBob · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

Is it possible to convince the company to send like $50 on a decent wireless access point and then just wire that up to the Ethernet. You would benefit not only self but all that have share said basement.

I found one I link below for pretty cheap if u have to go out of pocket. Not bleeding but it will get the job done.

ASUS 3-In-1 Wireless Router (RT-N12)

u/Ratfist · 2 pointsr/techsupport


>Thank you so much! I hope you don't mind me asking a bunch of dumb questions but these are the last ones I promise!


  • When you said:

    >>This is how the linked extender should work

    >You mean the extender I linked right? The photos I put on the original post?

    Upon closer inspection, i was wrong about the one you linked, and it is actually the first type of extender i described. They do work, but if there is already a lot of traffic in the air, this type will make things worse (really, adding wireless signals can never make congestion better).

    This would be the second type, and putting one of these into Access Point mode is what I would recommend.

    > I calculated the length of the ethernet cable I need to get it from the router to the room. And it's at about 50 feet, does that cross the limit of ethernet cable length you were telling me about?

    The limit for 100mbps is 100 meters, so 50 feet is well within range.

  • Will having an ethernet cable this long diminish my Internet speeds at all?

    Connecting the Wireless Access Point with a cable instead of wirelessly will actually improve the speed of communication between the Access Point and your router.

    >are there different kinds of ethernet cable? What is the best one to use? Or is there just a standard ethernet cable?

    There are several standards for cables. Cat5e is the most common, and it can reliably support speeds much much faster than the speeds your devices function at.

  • last question I promise: I don't know what this wire is called but the big end comes out of a wall socket and the small end goes into the router.This is the wire that I assume gives Internet to the router from the ISP. What is it called? Should I buy a better quality one? Is there a better quality of this wire? What should I ask for? The one I have is around 10 years old, and it's about 40 feet long

    I've actually never seen the white connector on that cable before, and I'm sorry that I have no idea what that cable is called. If the cable doesn't need to be that long, I would definitely ask for a replacement.

u/ELS · 2 pointsr/Comcast

My modem of choice:

Pretty much any $30 wireless router will work, just get one from a reputable brand. The $130 Asus router is one of the best routers, but overkill for a lot of people. Consider

u/sigasuperfan · 2 pointsr/SigaVPN

I use ddwrt interchangeable with openwrt. You are correct though that none of those look like they will work with that. What I've actually looked into though is one of these

$20, and powered by 5v (USB if needed) and I can take it with me. Reviews look good. For a single device or on the go, it would be great. I have a lot of wired devices though, so if this came after my router, I'd have to have another network switch after it, and I might as well just use a different router. If you want to switch in for one hard wired device, plus a phone or a couple of wireless it would be fine. Not the high end hardware, but to lock in OpenVPN at the router, it seems perfect.

So then that circles me back to something like an Asus router.

N12 has my 4 ports I'd need for hardwired devices, WLAN stuff is a little on the low end though. But probably better than that $20 mobile box while still being under $30.

Asus next bump up takes it all the way to $50

But, now hard wired is gigabit ports and dual band ac wireless. It's not a high end router, but it has openwrt support and would meet my needs. If you're doing tons of home media streaming, downloads, and gaming, you would just have to invest in something a lot more expensive. For most of us though, that would work great and is probably what I'll get once I replace my router.

u/Elaborate_vm_hoax · 2 pointsr/PleX

A router won't add much in terms of power draw, a few watts when it's in use and you can turn it off whenever you're not using it. Something like this is fairly small and can be easily mounted to a wall or underneath a shelf with velcro.

In terms of 'turn off wan' that just means turning off the 'wide area network' or basically turning off the routers internet capabilities. It's likely not necessary, but a good measure if you want to use it for local devices only.

I don't believe you could use a phone or tablet to provide internet to the rest of the devices on the network. You'd likely need something more like this to distribute a 4g connection to several devices. There is a lot more to it in terms of network carrier issues, device compatibility, etc. but it would certainly be possible if you wanted to go that route.

To simplify for your original question, it really wouldn't be necessary to add 4G access for this to work, but it would be an option if you wanted to add internet access to the setup later on. I usually start with the basics but plan for the inevitable additions later.

u/punkonjunk · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It's a lot of things - but your internet is likely a component. The poor netcode quality of nintendo's first party games (and I love smash but it's worse than 90s era netcode) and the poor quality of the networking, and especially the wifi chip itself all go together with what might otherwise be a good enough network for online play.

Job number one is to go wired if you are playing docked. The adapters are cheap and you do not need a nintendo official one - this one will work just dandy.

Wireless inherently loses packets and isn't perfect and is higher latency than wired. If you can go wired at all, do it. If you want to go further, with typical home network infrastructure your best bet to reduce as much routing/fuckery as possible is to give your switch a static IP and then in your router set it as the DMZ - this will allow it to communicate directly to the internet, remove the need to ever forward ports and remove all routing components entirely - it's about as direct a connection as you can get, and most consumer routers support this. If you are using a "router" or all in one/gateway unit your ISP provided, knock that off. Ask them to put it in bridge mode and hook up your own router. I used a cheap ASUS router for a very long time and it worked just great - and lets you have a ton of control over your network. This often isn't possible with ISP provided equipment.

My current network setup is much more complicated, including a couple thousand dollars of very high end enterprise-grade access points in a mesh network. It's incredibly high quality and I still don't game on wireless for anything competitive because wifi always adds some latency and some jitter/packet loss/inconsistency.

But even on the absolute best possible connection, connected to someone else with the best possible connection, you'll still have issues. Sometimes smash is shitty with a buddy of mine with a similar setup for no explicable reason. And it's p2p so the only remaining issue is either network fuckery with the switch/netcode itself, or fuckery with our local ISP, but testing doesn't reveal any issues when it's happening.

So the moral of the story - there is a lot you can do to improve it, but it'll never, ever be perfect. It sucks and there are a lot of reasons for it but it's still worth some effort to make it better if you game a lot - it'll help with everything, on other consoles and PC as well.

u/traveler19395 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

While burying cable or fiber optic is the ideal solution, I agree with you that this would be a great place to use a simple wireless bridge. The bridge units you linked would be great for their distance, but I would add that the Access Point you linked is overkill if they're trying to keep a low budget, any half-decent $30 router (like this one) can be put in AP mode and easily cover a small cottage.

u/theicecapsaremelting · 2 pointsr/techsupport
u/KickAClay · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

Gigabit!!! Lucky. Yeah I have a rack full of equipment. the modem is from Comcast, but my router is a NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band Wi-Fi Gigabit Router

u/2pfspiff · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Buy a better router and you should have no issues. Also try to set the router closer to the bedroom area so the coverage will be better in the back. If it is only you then you wdon't need that much band with. Something like the R7000 would be sufficient.

u/aliencircusboy · 2 pointsr/Android

It's the router. I've had the same Netgear N150 for over four years. Definitely time for a new one. This is the one to get, or at least that I'm planning on getting: NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band WiFi Gigabit Router (R7000)

u/gsxrjason · 2 pointsr/techsupport

What kind of price range are you working with?



u/Drivingmecrazeh · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Yep, they have it now, and they have ECHO, too, for wireless repeaters. With that being said, you can get the R7000 or R8000 and both will do the job nicely.

Current prices are 180 and 242, but there may be sales going on since it is Memorial Day weekend.

u/SFRep · 2 pointsr/Sacramento

How many devices do you have? I have 7 devices (computer/tablet/phones) along with 2 TVs streaming 4K so although my speed is not the fastest (advertised 60mbps), I decided to go overboard with my modem/router set up.

If you only have a few devices, you can easily find them on Amazon for fairly cheap like this one. You can find general xfinity modem/router on craigslist/eBay fairly cheap if you don't mind them being used previously.

I am using this set up to have dual-band wifi and all that jazz. I don't even know if it makes a difference but I got the router for fairly cheap so why not.

u/TypingMakesMeMoist · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This Router is the one that I have at my house. It's super fast and we don't notice any slowdown and we have lots and lots of streaming going on at a time. It's fast enough to also handle any faster internet plan you get as well. And it's range is pretty damn impressive.

u/mixmastersalad · 2 pointsr/perktv

Yeah it looks like one too, lol. Picked it up last Black Friday from Staples for pretty cheap after ink recycling rewards.

u/closeclothes · 2 pointsr/leagueoflegends

Most of them use Verizon FiOS. Under FiOS, you get the same upload and download speed, so if you get 100Mbps download, you'll get 100Mbps upload; very good for streaming at a price that's better than competitors' like TWC and Comcast.

For routers I suggest the Netgear AC3200 Nighthawk X6 Triband Router ( It's costly but this thing will give you WiFi speeds that are equivalent to wired ethernet speeds, and the LOWEST band (which is a 2.4GHz band) is capable of 600 Mbps, with the other two 5GHz bands packing up to 1.3Gbps capabilities each (which you won't get even with Google Fiber).

If you don't want to spend $270, get the Nighthawk AC1900 Dual Band router for $185 (

If there are a lot of people in your house that use WiFi, and you guys do any kind of video streaming or need constant, stable WiFi connections nearly the entire day, the extra money you spend on the TriBand AC3200 is WELL worth it. You will not need to upgrade routers for a long while. Furthermore, AC is the newest WiFi technology, and it just started to be included in several new technological devices like the iPhone 6 or newer laptops. 802.11ad is just around the corner, but it will still be backwards compatible with a/b/g/n/ac

You'll get extremely quick and stable WiFi connection with the AC3200 TriBand router. No need for a wireless adapter to boost signal capture unless your PC doesn't have a built-in WiFi card. Reason being is the router has range that will cover your entire house while still being extremely stable, especially if you're able to get it somewhere near the middle of your house in an open space with no surrounding furniture or objects to 'deter' any signal.

u/triplehelix_ · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

everyone in this thread for the most part seems to love Ubiquiti. looks like you can get a secure gateway, 8 port managed switch and an AC access point for ~$400 and have a prosumer/enterprise level system.

if you are looking for simpler/cheaper all in one and like netgear, the r7000 is well regarded at ~$150. i've had one for a couple of years and its been rock solid. (the r7000p might be the better option for an extra 30 for the MIMO capabilities, but i don't have the experience with it to say). when you feel like tinkering, throw Xwrt-Vortex or dd-wrt on it.

ultimately ubiquiti looks like the more robust solution, and future upgrades to new wireless standards would clock in most likely cheaper then a new all in one router as you just need to swap in a new access point, all while giving higher security and more overall network capability and flexibility.

u/CbcITGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I browsed what a lot of other people said, take my information with a grain of salt, I work in IT and do construction build outs and surveillance and security as an all in one consulting shop, my background is in cisco.

Suggestion 1: Ubiquiti

Suggestion 2: Get a decent router, and put your ISP modem into Bridge mode. I'm a huge fan of mikrotik but it's kind of expensive, or the Ubiquiti version

Suggestion 3: If you're going to hard wire EVERYTHING add a gigabit switch in to the last gigabit port on the router, place anything not critical on that switch, if you're going with cameras and AP's, I suggest a Ubiquiti POE Switch But it's VERY Expensive, I'll detail reasons why it's pretty neat to stay with ubiquiti the whole way, but if that's too expensive you can go with this

Suggestion 4: Pick up a shelf and some velcro and a nice power strip or battery backup to organize all this

Suggestion 5: Unifi AP's
Dual Band AC Lite
in wall ap
cloud management

Suggestion 6: Unifi Cameras
all listed here

Or LTS Cameras, but good luck finding them cheap, I'm a vendor and get them for sub 100$

Why sticking with ubiquiti is neat:

All your equipment (except cameras) will show up in the dashboard, your router, your switch and your ap's will all be visible and manageable from a single location (a web page). Granted, I'm not sure it's worth that 400$ switch, but unless you ABSOLUTELY need POE at the switch, you could go with the less expensive edgeswitch, which I want to say is only 200$

Answer: If you use TRUE Wireless Access Points and routers not repurposed as WAP's then they receive an IP on your lan and work as an interface and only pass traffic from wireless devices to your primary dhcp server/router.

It would work as so

Modem > Router > Switch > Camera


Modem > Router > Switch > Wap >> Wireless connection >> Devices.

A switch is just a digital splitter for your network, at the most simplest of explanations. and a WAP is simply a translator from wireless to ethernet.

u/dammer3 · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

i also have just a linksys switch just for more lan ports ;) the wifi strength and performance is great! look it up on youtube a bit more though!

Can be a bit more complicated to setup somewhat... but set it up from my phone w/o issues. 4000 sq foot house with zero signal issues! and that's with one access point.

u/theraggyviking · 2 pointsr/mikrotik

The ubiquiti er litemaybe able to hit gigabit speeds. That plus a separate gigabit switch might be cheaper overall. Especially compared to a cloud core.

u/acobildo · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I have an older HooToo from Amazon. Think I paid about $25 at the time. Works great and I'd recommend the brand again.

u/AfterShock · 2 pointsr/PleX

Can confirm, While the rumor is future OS updates on Roku will allow you to connect around splash pages at hotels etc, I too always bring a travel sized router with me. I went with the HooToo travel router as it was on sale for $15 in December.

u/3r0z · 2 pointsr/kodi

Technically it should work but the good folks over at r/datahoarder told me it's not ideal. I had trouble doing it that way with a Netgear Nighthawk as well. Eventually I hooked my drive up to an old laptop and just leave that running. But if you don't have an extra laptop or you're looking for a cheaper solution, you can try something like this. It's a cool little device that has a lot of functions, one being SMB.

u/amongmany · 2 pointsr/photography
u/cdlenfert · 2 pointsr/fireTV

For on the go, a Fire TV Stick (gen 2) with an OTG cable is the way to go, unless you need 4K. If you have non-Fat32 drives that hold your media that you don't want to reformat, I'd suggest some sort of file sharing device to make them available over a network. Something like this I'm using a super cheap PogoPlug that I've enabled SMB sharing on, and it feeds 1080p to my FireTVs flawlessly.

u/BumOnABeach · 2 pointsr/berlin

More often than not any given apartment in downtown Berlin will be in range of at least one of the several commercial wlan networks (Vodafone, T-Online, Hotsplots). For example in my last apartment in Berlin Mitte I could connect to five of them (often they are actually separate wlans running on private routers, so technically it is actually your neighbors you are connecting to).

It usually costs around 30€/month (I think) with unlimited traffic and usually very decent bandwidth for one (!) device. But with a bit of tech ingenuity (or even better and dead easy: an inexpensive travel router like for example this) you can make it work for all your gadgets. The travel router connects to the commercial wlan, then it opens its own private wlan for your devices. Bought mine a couple of years ago, now it is among the first things I pack, wouldn't want to travel without one. First you really need to check for the strength of the signal though, anything less than 50% will be a bit of a pain.

u/mofang · 2 pointsr/travel is an example of one model. They also make versions that plug into the wall and that have a built in battery - look at the alternate version links on the Amazon page to navigate to them.

The idea of an integrated travel plug adapter is nice, but the Kikkerland one I linked in a different fork of the thread is smaller to pack and I prefer having the two separate - usually I want to plug in devices near the bed, but the Ethernet port is often near a desk instead.

u/rcashel · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

Thanks for the clarification, so it looks like I'll be picking up a small travel router with the CC then. I'm looking for something tiny and cheap (less than $20 ideally) and works well with the CC. Any recommendations? I'm torn between these two:

u/Syranth · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Call the front desk and ask for their technical support number. If they have one call it and ask them to whitelist your Switch on the network. They will need your MAC address.


Another way to solve for this if you travel a lot is get a Hootoo Wireless Router. I bought one last year when I was traveling up to a week per month and it was fabulous.

u/tal_ormanda · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I own this travel router and it's pretty good once you get it set up

u/reg036 · 2 pointsr/fireTV

Well the Stick does not have a USB input for drives so that rules that out period.

The Box does have a USB input but it does only fat32 (NO NTFS) so it is a max of 2 TB drive and files up to 4GB,that will rule out 720p+ movies.

Without setting your hard drive up as a network share somehow then I would not recommend the AFTV. Someone in another thread suggested this as a plain media player for attached storage:

I switched from WDTVs and have both a stick and box, without a good router the stick will be a little problematic sometimes, I much prefer the hard wired box and works great using Kodi with my NAS. I also will pop some things on a microSD card to play real quick.

Also in another thread, someone recommended this:

To turn your hard drive into a network share wirelessly.


u/rextraverse · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

I don't believe so, if only because to do what you want it to would require two separate sets of Wi-Fi antennas. It's also why most laptops also can't do this with a hotel Wi-Fi but can become a hotspot if the hotel offers an ethernet connection

This won't help you right now, but as someone who travels a lot for work (~2 weeks/month for 10 months out of the year), I've been using the HooToo TripMate Nano for the past year and it's been very reliable. The device will allow you to connect to a hotel's Wi-Fi and create your own personal Wi-Fi network, works fine with browser-based hotel logins, and has a USB port to attach a network drive to share files. It's also dirt cheap, for what it does.

u/TheTitanTosser · 2 pointsr/talesfromtechsupport

Yup. I have a Linksys Wireless-G router. Planning on upgrading to an AC router

u/youvegotmalegt · 2 pointsr/perktv

I bought a Netgear R8000 networking router. It is extreme overkill for a router, but I most likely will not have to update it for 8-10 years.

u/KraZe_EyE · 2 pointsr/toledo

Netgear (R8000-100NAS) Nighthawk X6 AC3200 Tri-Band WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet, Compatible with Amazon Echo/Alexa

It was not a seamless installation. Spent an hour or more with buckeye to get the modem configured correctly.

You need a laptop with an Ethernet connection to the new router. I also had to hook up to the modem a few times as well.


That said do your own research on the router and what it supports. You might not need one as robust as mine.

We can't recommend enough getting away from the stock router though! You will thank yourself ten fold!

Edit; the modem I linked to has 3 bands. 2.4G hzand two 5Ghz wifi bands. This separation allowed us to do the following:
All streaming devices are on 2.4G it might be a little slower BUT has a farther reach in our 2 story house. TVs are mounted on walls (bad reception)and not all streaming devices support 5G wifi.

One 5G band is for our our cell phones only

The other 5G is what I put our guests on and also our laptop.

This separation cuts down on network congestion on the WIFI bands! Our phones have no one to share bandwidth with.

We only stream 2 or 3 devices at a time and the 2.4g network can handle that and not slow down our phone wifi.

u/stratospaly · 2 pointsr/PS4

I have 2-3 ps4s in one house. It all comes down to your router. I got a net gear nighthawk router

I then set up one PS4 in a DMZ, the other with forwarded ports, and the third ps4 with no settings (dhcp). All were wired connection and none had lag of any kind. My son is taking his Christmas ps4 home so I'm now down to 2 in the house but it was cool to have half a Group communicate without mics.

u/Klodjan91 · 2 pointsr/Fios

I personally use the Netgear NightHawk x6 R7900. Comes with standard 2.4 and (2) 5Ghz channels. Just saw on amazon the new model going right now for the same price as the one I bought last year. Here is the link check it out:

IMO: It's better to use your own router than pay for theirs renting it out, when in the long run for one year renting theirs you pay $120, when you can cough up a little more and have your own and use it almost in any type of internet service.

u/gordonv · 2 pointsr/techsupport

MediaLink Router. - It can handle 3 wireless devices at once, is only $10, and it never crashes. It's set and forget tech. You'll look like a hero. Most people don't care about the speed, only that it works.

If you want a fast router and it's your own stuff. Go with a Netgear Nighthawk. $300. - Tons of options, fast, etc...

u/zallen1868 · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

45 Mbps is $30 for 1 year. God knows how much it is after that or how long of a contract I have to buy into - not accounting for upfront costs.

Yeah, I actually ended up buying this with some Amazon gift cards I got for Xmas: I'm hoping I can set that up as my access point and disable it on the router.

You actually brought up an interesting point. I have NEVER been able to open ports on the AT&T modem to access my devices over the Internet. I'm hoping I'll have better luck if I just open everything on the modem and use the router as the firewall.

u/iroflmaowtf · 2 pointsr/Romania

> Se gaseste un router bun la 200-300 de lei?

aproape, eu am luat tp link archer c5 acum ceva ani(inca merge bine), era scump ca pla, astazi sunt mult mai ieftine; pe c5 am instalat openwrt

u/JayClear · 2 pointsr/Comcast

Your link is the exact modem I was talking about. This is the router.

The code takes off $10 and the coupon take off $10. Bringing the router down to $79. The modem has a $10 coupon too.

u/fularagin · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Was looking into routers today myself, ended up going with this router.

Search around a bit but I ended up ordering that one

u/dakoellis · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

with that kind of download, just look for anything that is AC at this point. the Archer C9 is $69.99 on Amazon right now for me

u/scm02 · 2 pointsr/AppleWhatShouldIBuy

TP-Link makes a relatively affordable ($108 USD) Wireless AC Router (Archer C9) that has Time Machine support.

Comes with a USB 2 and USB 3 port, has a smartphone app for changing settings, and supports simultaneous broadcast of 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz.

u/kurizmatik · 2 pointsr/LasVegas

Nope. Just don’t be like the people in past threads across the Vegas subs who want the fastest speeds then buy the cheapest router. We have this but I’d get the one for $150 so you don’t have to pay to rent a modem from Cox. We pay $88ish a month for 150 and pull closer to 300

u/oreesama · 2 pointsr/buildapc

i use this one, so i can only give you feedback on it.

It works great overall, great signal almost anywhere that there isn't a thick concrete wall on my property blocking the signal.

u/slothlovereddit · 2 pointsr/FortNiteBR

My internet used to be trash, not 1000+ ping trash but there were plenty of times where I was experiencing lag or ping spikes to the point I would say my internet was garbage.

I ended up buying a AC1900 router (link here) and a new CAT7 cable. My speeds practically quadrupled, I ended up going from ~50mbps to nearly 200mbps. Part of me wonders if it was my Ethernet cable all along, but I'm still happy with the purchase of the AC1900 router. My Xbox is downstairs and my router is upstairs, with the old router I was having issues connecting the 5ghz line due to distance but also the 2.4ghz band was royally fucked on because of all my neighbors and their WIFI. With this router I have 0 issues connecting to the 5ghz band.

My ping isn't in the single digits, but it is consistently between 10-20ms now whereas before it was ~30 at best all the way up to 500 when shit hit the fan for whatever reason.

u/rsquared17 · 2 pointsr/computers

I would recommend buying a new router, and looking for one with beamforming capabilities. Essentially it's a feature that allows the router to triangulate the device using the wireless, and concentrate a density of connection between it and the router. This is a far stronger bond than the normal radial signal production. The range extender would not work well, I have one in my house because my roommate brought it, and it has to have a connection to the router still. Putting it by your computer sounds like it wouldn't be able to connect well anyways, plus they drop the up/download speeds pretty drastically.
I live in a house with 7 other college students, everyone has 3 or 4 bandwidth intensive devices, and it's a 3 story building. This router has exceeded expectations by far.
TP-Link AC1900 Wireless Long Range Wi-Fi Gigabit Router (Archer C9)

u/infered5 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Your modem wasn't an issue, it was the router attached to the modem. I think you wasted your money there.

If you want a hecking good router, the [Asus AC5300 is a fan favorite] ( Ensure you sacrifice an xbox 360 to it now and then to keep it happy.

[The TP-Link Archer AC1900] ( also has great wireless speeds and control. I recommend this one, TPLink has good products.

u/UnrealObserver · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

For Comcast approved modems, see these links:

There are both standalone cable modems listed and combo (gateway) modem-wifi router units. Use the radio buttons on the side of the second link to specify what you are looking for

I prefer separate units... if something goes wrong, easier to troubleshoot, and separate units give a lot more control over settings/user preferences

The Arris SB6190 may have some issues not yet solved.

I am using an Arris SB6183 on Charter (former TWC) 200/20... very stable. I bought it refurbished off ebay from an approved vendor... no problems. ebay prices are about $70 - $80, Costco also sells that exact unit new for $89.99, item 1080070

I am using a TP-Link AC1900 Archer C9 wireless router...

Whatever you choose, recommend putting it in the same room as your TV/Streaming box... and use 5Ghz if possible to avoid wifi interference

I am sure others will have their own ideas.... Hope this helps and good luck!

u/gonza18 · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

Just to add. I have a pixel 2 and this one is working with no issues to me.

TP-Link Wireless Router AC1900 Smart WiFi Dual-Band Gigabit (Archer C9)

u/Maxpowerfreak · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Hey, I've got the following router:

It has a usb 3.0 plug in which I can plug something like a hard drive or usb, and then you can set it up to have a media server under your network.

I've been looking for a hard drive to throw on there, should I get a normal HDD and buy a separate enclosure, or should I get a one of those portable hard drives?

I'm looking at using it to store the 35gb of STL files I've accumulated thus far and probably movies/shows. 2TB would be best I would guess.

Is it a good idea to use the router's usb port for this? Or should I reuse my raspberry pi 3+ with RetroPie that's gathering dust? If yes for the pi, any good tutorials out there? Thanks :D

u/Wolf_PM · 2 pointsr/SSBPM

I'm trying to figure out how to lower my ping for netplay, anyone have any suggestions?


I have a good PC and monitor, and when I had my last netplay match the connection was ok on my end at least, but I'm trying to see how to lower it
I think it said 32 on dolphin, I just ran an internet connection test and it says
Ping: 7ms
Download: 119.7 Mbps
Upload: 9.3 Mbps
Jitter: 1ms
is that bad?
I just checked my ISP account and it says its up to 50 Mbps Download and up to 5 Mbps upload, I have CAT 5e ethernet cables hooked up to this modem:
and this router:
So those might be the problem?

u/snorkelbagel · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Powerline adapters suck. I’m forced to use one when networking my parents house and it can drop out when (it’s plugged into the garage to get wifi to that end of the house / yard) high power draw appliances pull power to charge when in the garage when plugged into the same faceplate. Basically all the random yard hardware can only charge using one of the other power socket plates. Not terribly limiting in a garage with like 5 outlets but most bedrooms and hallways don’t have this luxury.

How comfortable are you crimping your own ethernet cables? You can get 500ft of unshieldes cat5e pure copper cable for about $45 and there’s a 15% off coupon presently (15SAVE) that’ll basically mitigate shipping.

Get a half decent router like a budget nighthawk (NETGEAR R6700 Nighthawk AC1750 Dual Band Smart WiFi Router, Gigabit Ethernet (R6700) or this tp-link (TP-Link Archer AC1750 Smart WiFi Router – Dual Band Gigabit, Qualcomm Inside (C7) - the nighthawk has a $10 coupon so they are basically the same price.

Then drop a cat5e line to the basement and buy a cheap $15 router down there and set it to AP mode.

ASUS RT-N12/D1 Wireless-N300 3-in-1 Router / AP / Range Extender

This one has decent software on it.

u/Aspirant_Fool · 2 pointsr/techsupport

There are dozens of routers available for less than $150 that would offer much better performance than what you have now and support more advanced features like bandwidth monitoring. The easiest way to identify something as trash, although there are exceptions, is to ask the following questions:

  1. Can you see antennas on it?
  2. Does it cost more than $40?

    If the answer to both is no, you could probably spend $15 at Goodwill or a yard sale and walk away with a comparable router.

    Generally, the bigger and dumber looking a router is, the more capable it will be. This is unfortunate, but mostly true until you start looking at commercial-grade items. For home use, something like a TP-Link Archer C7 or Netgear Nighthawk R6700 would make for a good entry point into higher-end routers. Both are <$150, have bandwidth monitoring capability out of the box, should provide improved range and speed versus your current router, and add AC support, which will offer shorter range but much higher speed to devices that support that standard. Routers are one of the few items where 'what's available locally' is actually a reasonable question to ask.

    Since your goal is to gain bandwidth monitoring capability without sacrificing performance or paying more than $150, I'd head down to Best Buy or Walmart or Currys or whatever you have nearby, see what they've got in your price range, remember the "Is it trash?" test, and google to make sure that specific model has bandwidth monitoring capability.
u/SittingWonderDuck · 2 pointsr/Comcast

I too was looking for a clear answer. I did my research so here you go. This can support your 75 Mbps



NETGEAR Nighthawk AC1750 Smart Dual Band WiFi Router (R6700)



u/tunaman808 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

If you can limp on with your current setup, I say wait a few months until Wi-Fi 6 routers become common. The people who set Wi-Fi standards are ditching the old letter scheme in favor of simple numbers. So:

Wi-Fi 6 | 802.11ax <--- Newest

Wi-Fi 5 | 802.11ac <--- Current

Wi-Fi 4 | 802.11n

Wi-Fi 3 | 802.11g

Wi-Fi 2 | 802.11b

Wi-Fi 1 | 802.11a <--- Oldest

It's likely that you don't have any Wi-Fi 6 clients, but I just can't bear the thought of you throwing down $$$ on a new router today that will be out if date in a matter of months, ya know?

Netgear has a Wi-Fi 6 router out now, but at $300 it's a bit spendy. If you just can't take it any more and don't want to wait, I'd buy a Nighthawk R6700 - it's probably the best sub-$100 router out there.

u/boner79 · 2 pointsr/Rochester

>what power of router would I need to utilize the 100mbps?

Theoretically a wireless N router rated N100+ should handle 100Mbps, but that hasn't been my experience and so I'd recommend looking for a dual/tri band wireless N+AC router if you really want to utilize the 100Mbps.

Amazon has a Netgear R6700 AC1750 (N450+AC1300) router for $109.99 - $20 coupon now. It's a decent router for the price and the 5GHz AC1300 band should handle 100Mbps fine.

Theoretically the 2.4GHz N450 band should handle 100Mbps (since it's rated for 450Mbps) but oftentimes devices' 2.4Ghz won't handle it. For example, my iPhone maxes out at 30-40Mbps or so on my router's 2.4Ghz N600 band (Asus AC1900) but I can get my full provisioned 70Mbps speed on my iPhone using the 5GHz AC1300 band. Could just be something funky in my router settings.

If you're a Costco member they have a Linksys AC1900 on sale for $109. Also, I've seen Negear X6 R7900 AC3000 (N450+AC1300x2) tri-band routers on clearance there for $149.

u/Emerald_Flame · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The next step down I'd recommend that R6900P at about $150

Down from that, I'd say something like the R6700 although you lose MU-MIMO support. Which for you, may not be a big deal since you have a pretty low number of devices. The AC66U would be another good contender for this slot, but it's just slightly more expensive as of the time I'm writing this. But whichever of the 2 is cheaper for you will be a solid buy.

u/HWTechGuy · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

If I was looking for a sub-$100 router, this would be my choice.



u/xIndirect · 2 pointsr/heroesofthestorm is the router I'd recommend. Netgears AC routers tend to have less dropped routing tables and overall more stable wifi. Still well within your budget and if you get the R6300v2 instead its only like 70-80 bucks and just as reliable. If you want added stability you could flash it with DD-WRT and there are many guides explaining how to do that.

u/suckafuckindickBPAF · 2 pointsr/pihole

Bonus points if you buy a ~$20 travel router have it configured for pi-hole and all of your devices to it. Then join their network with the travel router and have it put out your own already configured wifi hotness.

You could power the Zero W and travel router w/a battery pack for portability even.

Works a treat for hotels, planes, and all public wifi even with captive portals.

Even though OP said he's not interested in VPN... the travel router is neat because it has a hardware switch on it you can map to connecting OpenVPN to connect back home with a flip of a switch. Kinda cool.

u/qwertydk · 2 pointsr/VPN

Found out the other is discontinued so definitely buy this instead:


u/nssone · 2 pointsr/originalxbox

I recently bought one of these and updated the firmware with this Connected it to my Wifi and put it in WDS mode. It basically becomes a wireless->ethernet bridge. It only has 2 ethernet ports but I only have my Xbox and my PS2 connected. It was a reasonably cheap solution to give my consoles wireless network access. I don't know if I'm topping out the speeds in any way. But running PS2 games off he network seemed fine 98% of the time and I transfer files to my Xbox at about 4.5MB/s through a samba share.

u/yp983 · 2 pointsr/iRacing

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router...

It's pretty cheap, and well rated. Works perfectly so far.

u/IfTheHouseBurnsDown · 2 pointsr/CoxCommunications

I just got a TP-Link AC1750 ( and it’s the best router I’ve ever owned. I’ve always had NETGEAR but decided to switch it up and I’m glad I did.

I also keep my modem and router separate. I’ve heard combos aren’t as fast.

u/rageaccount373733 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I’m not going to downvote you. But you should get a dual band router since he is in a populated city. Multi hundred dollar routers are not worth it for a single router. It’s not going to be any better than a cheap single router.

Buy this:
NETGEAR Cable Modem CM500 - Compatible with all Cable Providers including Xfinity by Comcast, Spectrum, Cox | For Cable Plans Up to 300 Mbps | DOCSIS 3.0

Return the original one and stop paying the rental fee.

Buy this:
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router (Archer A7)

If house is big, you have poor WiFi in part of your house, buy this instead of TPLink router:
Google WiFi system, 3-Pack - Router replacement for whole home coverage (NLS-1304-25)

u/Yo_2T · 2 pointsr/Fios

Get a new router. That router can't handle Gigabit speeds.

Something like this would do.

u/ImperatorPC · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What are the walls made of? It's not a large house so unless your walls are made of concrete a single all in one router/AP/switch should be sufficient. Do not get an all in one that is also your modem. The Archer 7 is generally regarded as a really good router for home use.

u/Lagotta · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

>There are Ethernet ports in my room so I am looking for a cheap router that I can connect my PC to for a more stable connection for gaming

In a dorm room, HARD WIRE your PC for the best connectivity.

Cables from monoprice (or amazon) are cheap.

>as well as better wifi connectivity.

Get one of these

Set it in AP mode, and do this:

Wall port in room >> ethernet cable to TP Link in AP mode

>> cable to PC

>> set up 5ghz SSID, pick a good channel, and set your router to stay on that channel

>> probably ignore the 2.4 ghz band in a dorm, it's going to be saturated, and the 5ghz will cover your room easily.

u/gwrabbit · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Your ISP should provide you a modem that will be able to use the fiber and handle those speeds. If your apartment is practically one room, you can buy something like this -->

TP Links are very good consumer grade products.

If you like the Google home mesh network, then by all means, go for it. Either way you go, you'll be taken care of.

u/prosperouslife · 2 pointsr/linux4noobs
  1. First and simplest option is to call your ISP for the log in information of your router so you can manage the router yourself. You will want to have this information handy anyway for future use.
  2. Second option would be to install a wifi router you purchase, request a modem only from your ISP and then you can limit IP's or mac addresses, set times of day that certain devices can connect etc. Lots of options. Something like this
  3. Third choice: Run your current connection through a switch. Connected an access point to that switch. create a new wifi network and manage it as you see fit.
  4. Last option: If you enjoy learning networking and want a highly customizable setup I would suggest getting an older pc, a second network card, a switch and an access point. Then installing pfsense on the pc and then you'd have a highly customizable, secure, BSD based network. This is probably not something you're ready for at the moment but maybe something to consider down the line.


    Wifi access point

    Good switch
u/rallymax · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I think it's definitely time to upgrade your WRT54GL as it's a 802.11g router capable of 54Mbps at most. That's less than your connection with Xfinity, meaning you're not actually utilizing all of the broadband you're paying for (unless you have hardwired ethernet in the house too).

AC1750 should be plenty for streaming with fire stick. The TP-Link AC1750 is a decent product for < $100.

u/ten_dollar_banana · 2 pointsr/Minneapolis

Hi Travis, thanks for your quick response. I'm running a brand new TP-Link AC1750.

I believe I am using the 2.4ghz band. I'll try switching to the 5ghz band and see if that helps.

u/MahaloAmigo · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I wouldn't go with D-Link either, get something from Asus, netgear, or TP-link like This. And definitely get your own modem to go with it. You are almost certainly paying a modem rental fee that is hidden away somewhere in your monthly bill.

u/ohwooord · 2 pointsr/Fios

I bought this one amazon

I have 200/200 and I'm getting 300/300 oddly enough when I test so it should work out for you.

u/cougar831 · 2 pointsr/PS4

I use this and runs great

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Routers for Home, Works with Alexa, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7)

u/tossawayintheend · 2 pointsr/burlington

I have this one and it works great.

I get the the advertised speed when wired to my laptop, but not on WiFi because my laptop doesn't have a dual band modem so I'm stuck with the 2.4GHz band.

My phone gets the full speed on the 5GHz WiFi band.

u/Orpheustor · 1 pointr/radarr

Good stuff. Yes, the list functionality is pretty good as it automates your downloading then. I rarely touch my instance of Radarr now. I've linked Radarr to my TheMovieDatabase account, and then I just add the movies I want to download to my TMDb account. You can also link up your Trakt too and add movies via the Trakt website. If you want greater control over which specific torrents you want to download, then you can connect to your Radarr instance and manually download movies through that though.

Another alternative to Radarr is CouchPotato, which I've also got set up. Some people don't like it, but I quite like the user interface myself, and ease of use. It works very similar to Radarr.

I don't know how powerful Pis are these days, and their ability to run a VPN service. It's worth trying, but it may bottleneck and give you slow speeds (perhaps others can chime in here though as I've not tried the latest Pi). If you're getting slow speeds when connected to the VPN on the Pi, then you could consider getting a mini smart router to use as a dedicated VPN router, and then connect your Pi to that.

For example, I have one of these, configured for my Torguard VPN account:

u/BlanksDisk · 1 pointr/computers

GL.iNet GL-MT300N-V2 Mini Travel Router, Repeater Bridge, 300Mbps High Performance, 128MB RAM, OpenVPN Client, Tor Compatible

u/secessus · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I built my van cave out of scrap and used materials to keep the cost down and to make the most out of stuff I had at hand or found cheap on CL.

For me, these were the requirements:

  • full length bed as I am 6'. A "full" size mattress fits across the back of the promaster.
  • good roof vent
  • storage area, so I built the bed platform as high as possible while still allowing me to sit up on it
  • plenty of power, even in low insolation. I overpaneled and also installed an isolator.
  • terlet of some kind. Currently using bucket with the snap on toilet lid and cedar shavings. If I can find a used composting toilet in good shape I'll probably migrate that way. Found a half-price Nature's Head on CL but the poster flaked. :-(
  • small compressor fridge. Since I have copious power I started with a peltier cooler I got at a thrift store for $10 (!).
  • wifi repeater setup for accessing the net when available. I used a tiny $20 GLinet 300a linux based minirouter for this.
  • long galley/workspace with sink. Sourced from thrift store
  • portable propane stove
  • large freshwater tank to allow two-week outings on BLM/NF land
u/01011011001 · 1 pointr/chromeos

There is probably a far easier alternative depending on what you are trying to achieve.

If you want to share a wifi connection what is stopping the other devices connecting directly to the original wifi point?

If you are going to buy a USB-LAN dongle to share a wired connection over wifi you will probably find it far less bother to purchase a mini travel router instead.


Something like this

u/stringsandknots · 1 pointr/Chromecast

Okay, here is possibly a solution -


Get the Chromecast dongle -


Next get one of the pocket WiFi routers, put it in client mode, with DHCP server

enabled in a different IP address subnet for the LAN port. You may also add the WAN

port to the local LAN (that way you can connect two devices)-



Connect your laptop over wired connection to the pocket router, and put it in client mode and connect to your WiFi, accept the terms and conditions, and get it going. It should then serve as a WiFi to Wired internet provider. At this point, disconnect your laptop from the router and connect it to the chromecast dongle.


This should work in almost all cases, particularly if the web-page terms has to be accepted every time a WiFi network connection is established. I use this technique to connect wired devices in Starbucks kind of locations.




u/Schizophreud · 1 pointr/OculusGo

GL.iNet GL-MT300N-V2 Mini Travel Router, Repeater Bridge, 300Mbps High Performance, 128MB RAM, OpenVPN Client, Tor Compatible

u/BBBalls · 1 pointr/Qubes

Not as convenient/elegant as just tethering directly to the computer, but a small travel router is an option. Something like [this](

u/snoquone · 1 pointr/OpenVPN

This thread is a little old so maybe you've figured it out already.

You're thinking along the right lines but perhaps a little cheaper and easier than a raspberry pi is an open VPN router like this one:

You can attach this to your current router; it broadcasts it's own SSID so you can connect your Chromecast to this, along with the casting device. Then any other device you don't want VPN'd just stays connected to your original SSID.

It's a bit of a pain to switch Chromecast WiFi networks so just disable/ enable open VPN in the router. You can also change the VPN region as required.

Setup can be a bit finicky - here's a guide from one VPN provider. Good luck!

u/guidedlight · 1 pointr/xboxone
u/zephiKK · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

People are saying not to get a 2 in 1 because it is always better for two separate devices. When you use a 2 in 1, there are compromises to be made. Think of it this way, if you're moving--having a 2 in 1 is like having one person juggle multiple tasks at once. If you have two units doing two separate tasks, it will get the job done more efficiently in a shorter amount of time. If you have a 2 in 1 modem/router, chances are.. it will not excel at both tasks.

Secondly, at Best Buy you can price match with items sold and shipped by Amazon (ensure they're not sold by third parties). Since you have room mates, you should discuss it with them and possibly split the cost between everyone? I assume that they're going to be splitting the bills with you? If you find an item that is on Amazon but not sold at Best buy then you can always sign up for Amazon Prime trial.

With the internet speeds that you're going to be having, you don't have to go too crazy with expenses.


Archer A7:

Do note with the SB6183 you won't be able to price match it since you're buying refurb. That same modem being new is ~$79.99, you're saving about half the amount.

Total would be $99.99 + taxes, you can substitute the router for a Netgear or ASUS if you want to spend a bit more.

Doing the math, you said $13 is the modem/router rental fee-- 13*12 = $156... a total savings of $156 - sales tax. Effectively making the cost in total being ~$33-36 for each person in the apartment.

u/Syphor · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'd recommend just getting a router and using it as your internet gateway. I assume from your minimal description that you have a Comcast cable modem plugged into the wall, and from there directly to the PC via ethernet? If that's the case, you should be able to go out and buy almost any basic wireless-capable home router, plug it in between the Comcast modem and the PC, and you'll immediately gain wifi (great for phones, tablets, laptops, etc) as well as a few extra switched ethernet ports. Note that the PS4 also has built in wifi capability, so you can use that if you don't want to immediately run an ethernet cable to the machine. Wifi is not as stable (especially in an area with lots of access points) as the wire though, so keep that in mind. But it'll get you connected.

Router examples:This is a pretty good unit, especially at the current pricing. You do not need one of the super fancy $150+ routers in almost all cases. (at time of posting, it's on sale for about $57)

On the cheaper end, the job, I guess. As you have Comcast cable, there's a decent chance that you may have faster than 100mbit download speed, and if so, this router will limit you to 100, before anything else. But things do exist that will do the basic connectivity job, which is why I mentioned it. These older E-series are... they're okay, but less than stellar. By all means shop around for something, I'm just providing some examples of what exists - I don't know your budget or what you're willing to set up.

Oh, one last thing - if your internet plan offers more than 100mbit down, you'll absolutely want to get a router that has gigabit ethernet support. Otherwise you could end up with something like the above E1000 which only goes up to 100.

u/Bradl450 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Try this one out.
TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7)

u/LA_roma · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Router for Home, Works with Alexa, VPN Server, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7)

I saw Netgear N600 as well which looks perfect but I'm not sure about the quality.

u/schoolpaddled · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Link from

Newegg always works for me:

>TP-LINK Archer C7 Wireless AC1750 Dual Band Gigabit Router, 450 Mbps on 2.4 GHz + 1300 Mbps on 5 GHz, 2 USB Ports, IPv6

u/clupean · 1 pointr/buildapc
u/pwnster1357 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

That is so weird, last night that link was taking me to the page for the Archer A7 (which also has a $10 coupon to clip)... I don't know if maybe I clicked something else while I was tired, but I could have sworn the link was taking me there, but now it takes me to the C7, haha.. My bad.


I guess the question then, is should I get the A7 or the C7? The A7 is cheaper, and from I read online, the only difference is the smart functionality with Alexa (though I don't use Alexa) would that hinder the router at all having that additional software? Would it be worth it since it's already $20 cheaper AND has a clippable $10 coupon?


As for the router and modem you listed, I wasn't saying what you suggested would cause a bottleneck, I just meant if I were to upgrade one or the other, which should I upgrade without causing a bottleneck? Would the AC1900 give better range or work any better with the smart home devices? My last network would get bogged down by smart home devices due to all the chatter on the network and Google mentioned some kind of bug of "built up packets" that stemmed from the devices always listening to each other.


Edit: Just woke up and I'm forgetting words

u/dabbing4datascience · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Can you find that for me on Amazon? I searched that exactly and nothing. :/ [This is what I found. Is this good? There's a 10$ off coupon



TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router - 5GHz Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Internet Routers for Home, Works with Alexa, Parental Control&QoS(Archer A7


u/fatcIemenza · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Yup, I'm definitely planning to game on ethernet as I do now.

That modem looks pretty good. Fair price and not time-limited for Cyber Monday like the Netgear stuff I was looking at.

I might as well ask, are you familiar with this router at all? TP Link AC1750 Archer A7. Also a fair price and not a limited time offer. I've seen it on a couple lists for great cost-performance balance.

u/Malfetus · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Does the hardware version matter in regards to OpenWRT?

C7'S seem to be resales/refurb which is fine, currently:




Comes to $109.89 which isn't bad at all!


There's also the Archer A7 which comes new, not sure if this is equivalent:


u/greenochaa · 1 pointr/IThelpdesk

So there is not a simple end all be all solution this problem, unfortunately.

But a good place to start would be upgrading your 2 devices initially. I am assuming you have Cisco small business router and not 2 home routers.

The home routers looks something like this -

Cisco small business routers like this -


I would invest in something like the Cisco router I linked if you don't have it already. Fortunately, the Cisco router I linked is ready out of the box and can work on day 1. I would still confirm that with Cisco support as I only learned that from the Q and A page on Amazon. Having a router ready out of the box IS NOT THE NORM, and you generally need someone who knows how to configure them come in, usually a contractor of some sort. Alternatively, most home routers will support 255 devices, and that being said, and good Asus/Belkin/Netgear 150$ - 300$ router would likely be good enough for only 30 people.

Secondly - I don't know why you would need 2 routers. Routers enable a network to connect to the internet and to other networks. Having 2 seems unnecessary unless we are missing something. You can set up 1 router where your network meets the internet and have that second router be turned into a dedicated switch.


Or -

Unmanaged Switch (Commonly used at homes, Ready out of the box) -

*none of these switches will really impact performance, it's more along the lines of available ports and scalability.

From your second device (the switch), you should then be able to hardwire a few accesses points. The access points will broadcast the Wi-Fi signal covering generally about 1400 - 7000 FT depending on quality.


Cisco Access Point -

This AP claims that it is also plug and play. Again plug and play is great, but still, expect some troubleshooting if things don't work initially out of the box. It's always best to do research and consult a local IT person/department. Having a few of these AP's would provide some pretty solid Wi-Fi for the area as long as the ethernet cable is properly insulated and outside ethernet (CAT-6) cable is used where it needs to be used. Remember ethernet will have problems if it is exposed to the elements or if it exceeds 300 FT.


There is still so much more to consider and I'm really not that smart. Just your average IT guy trying to be helpful. Iv done this sort of things to an extent for a few years. Let me know if you have more questions.

u/Digip3ar · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have this ,tp-link "Router", could I just set it up with a bridged port from a desktop that is using wifi?

u/NOT-JEFFREY-NELSON · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

AP is an access point, which is a device that broadcasts WiFi.

A gateway without a built in access point would not broadcast WiFi.

> Do I even need gigabit ethernet since I'm not playing video games or anything?

If you are getting a 200mbps plan, and don't get gigabit, you will be capped at fast ethernet speeds of 100mbps. Get gigabit.

I personally recommend this model by TP-Link:

u/onebhk · 1 pointr/india

TP-Link 802.11ac Dual Band Gigabit Wireless Smart Wifi Router (AC1750 , Archer A7)

u/sivartk · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have a TP-Link Archer C9 (similar to the Archer A7) at the front of my 2100sqft house. At the opposite corner of the house, I still get download speeds in the 150Mbps range. I'd give something like that a try.

My parents have an Archer A9 in the front of their house in the study and it covers the whole house (they can stream in the back master bedroom no problem) which is about 3200sqft with about 2900sqft on the first floor (only a theater room upstairs).

Of course it will also depend on the number of WiFi networks and available "clean" channels, the materials that your walls are made out of, the number of walls in the house, etc.

I'd give one of those a try unless you just want to play around with the Edgerouter X. It may have some features that you really need that the TP-Link's don't, or it may have a bunch of features you'll pay for and never use. Just depends on your use case and how much you want to learn about network routing.

u/MyCatsNameIsBernie · 1 pointr/Roku

It's a WiFi standard that was introduced a few years ago. Most new WiFi routers support it. They typically have "AC" in the model name. For example: TP-Link AC1750

For more info:

u/nlflint · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Any wireless router with 802.11AC and 1000+ reviews (4-5 star avg) will work fine.

NETGEAR Nighthawk Smart WiFi Router (R6700) ($70):

TP-Link AC1750 Smart WiFi Router ($58):

Edit: By the way, DHCP a feature in all routers that assigns IP address when devices connect. There should only be 1 DHCP service running on a network or else they conflict and cause trouble.

u/bkemp1984Part2 · 1 pointr/rva

I'm embarrassed to think about how long I put it off when we moved to Richmond. When I did the math on how much I spent in those years, I feel like an idiot. I'm good with tech so making sure I found a good one that would be the right specs wasn't even hard.

I got a combo of a very basic, small modem that fit the right DOCSIS version and an router that got good reviews for really good wifi coverage. No issues with either until recently, router got wonky and had to update firmware. It's totally worth it. If you want to have to do no work, here's what I have:



The modem doesn't have as high a download speed as some but it's still capable of more than twice my plan's speed.

u/so_shut_up_BOI · 1 pointr/techsupport

Will this router get the job done?

Amazon link

u/crappysyntax · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Apparently, I can post a SlickDeals link, but I can't post a SlickDeals referral link for Amazon. That makes so much sense.

This one is about the same in terms of features as the ASUS one you're looking at, but cheaper! Also more buyers/reviews/questions answered.

u/austuhnn · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

First off, I'd like to say thank you for the very informative response. Because I don't want to waste your time, I'll tell you the whole story straight up.

So I would like to order a router tomorrow because my mom agreed to pay for half of it for my rented college house. Therefore, I don't really want to spend the money for the "UAP" you're referring to as well as I'm not really sure how that works without doing the research. I've narrowed my search down to these three routers so far so I'd like for you to tell me which is the best, and if you disagree with all three, will you link me a router that is better, if you don't mind?

u/ilikeyertleturtles · 1 pointr/russia

Do I need to buy any specific equipment? Can I use American modems or wifi routers?

u/Avacyn80 · 1 pointr/PS4

I highly recommend TP-Link AC1750.

u/StackKong · 1 pointr/CoxCommunications

Hey, how is this modem? 30$ for Netgear Certified Refurbished Cm500

I want to get 30 Mbps Plan and I have already another Wifi Router which I will hook it up with called TP-Link AC1750/Archer A7


u/CrowWarrior · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I also have Comcast and just ordered these used from Amazon today.

u/jonny-spot · 1 pointr/wifi

A dual band 802.11ac router is not very expensive. Here is a $58USD example. Apple devices will pretty much always choose the fat 5GHz channels even when the 2.4GHz RSSI is significantly better. Getting devices on to 5GHz would free up airtime for the 2.4GHz-only devices.

u/keanex · 1 pointr/PleX

> First off, wifi for a streaming server is not an optimal setup, hard wired is preferred if you ask me.

People don't generally use WiFi by choice, and it's certainly not the case here. There is no chance of hard-wired in my current living situation.

> Also, 25mb is not a lot of bandwidth for a wifi card. How old is the PC? Some of my movies stream at 30mbps or greater depending on quality.

The WiFi adapter connected to my computer has pulled 350mbps up and down using 4 different speed tests. I am using it through USB 3 and have never pulled less than 150mbps using these speed tests. So I know the adapter is quite capable of pulling these numbers, as is the router of pushing them. The PC is brand new, 2600x, 16gb ram, RTX 2080, so it's not that.

When we had Comcast I had 250/10 and I wouldn't be able to stream past 8mbps on my PS4 Pro with both on the same network. I assume that's the Pro's WiFi adapter issues because people tell me over and over that in-network WiFi isn't affected by the internet speed, but the router's ability. Either way I never had the internet "drop out" before until switching to FiOS.

This all started when we moved to FiOS recently. When I'm streaming Plex from my computer to the PS4 Pro I am now getting the yellow WiFi warning sign in Windows 10 on my computer that says, "No internet, unidentified network." A quick troubleshoot by Windows and it's up and running, but the devices connected to the WiFi, other than my computer, are able to access the internet on the same WiFi during this time, even though my computer can't.

So I do not know what the deal is. It isn't my PS4 Pro in this case as the Pro is still connected to the internet. I am wondering if there is a setting I might need to change either on my adapter or my new FiOS Gateway router/modem to solve this as this didn't happen before moving to FiOS. Again though, I didn't have issues downloading something via uTorrent at 25mbps+ speeds for over an hour recently.

I am thinking about buying this router to see if it fixes the issues, but if it doesn't then I'm a jerk who just spent $50 on a modem I didn't need.

u/spacebarbarian · 1 pointr/news (I don't know much about modems, but have seen this one frequently recommended on support subreddits) (2.4 ghz only, good enough for 99% of people) (5ghz + 2.4ghz, good if you are in a heavily congested WiFi area, i.e. have 10+ strong-medium strength interfering networks) (If you can spend more then get this instead of the N66U above)

u/Reapexx · 1 pointr/techsupport

This is the router being used Firmware is updated. Works without a problem with an ethernet cable.

My USB wireless adapter is from when I didn't have an available PCI-E slot for a better one. I have room now though, so I'll look into getting a better one.

u/josh3684 · 1 pointr/xboxone

For your budget idk if youre going to find anything that good. Although this is higher, this is what i have after doing alot of research. I have several devices connected at once. Honestly i havent had to reboot the router, other than when applying firmware updates. Ive had it for about a year now, also has excellent range. I know its expensive, but you wont need another router for years.

u/littlerob904 · 1 pointr/buildapc

The only question you need to ask yourself is "Is the current speed I'm seeing in all the areas I use it, fast enough for my needs?"

Roughly translated, do you want it to be faster? If that answer is yes, then you should absolutely consider getting something new. If you do purchase something new, do yourself a favor and don't buy the budget AC model on the shelf at best buy. I would consider at a minimum getting an AC1900 if not more. if you are going to upgrade make sure it will meet your needs for a while!

I have the netgear nighthawk 7000 listed above, there are similarly priced modems from linksys and asus that will perform just as well. The transmit power on the nighthawk is great. It sits on the middle floor on one end of my ~2000 sq ft. colonial and can pull a few hundred mb/sec on the opposite end of my house through a floor, and around 4 walls.

The distance is even good enough to stream music to my phone at any point of my property, the farthest point being around 150' away and across the entire house. I fiddled with your run of the mill $80 router for years. When I ponied up and bought this one it was an unbelievable difference. When I bought it the R7000 was one of their higher end models. Now it's practically on the bottom.

u/Jarkeler · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Heads up: is also on sale, no $20 coupon like the N6700, but still.. $119 is the lowest it's ever been on Amazon in 3 years.

u/aldehyde · 1 pointr/askscience

I was dealing with this recently and got a program called ping plotter which I then used to ping over and over for days and was able to observe intermittent spikes of latency and packet loss, as well as a few 20-60 minute periods of 100% outage. I had my ISP come out and because it is cable had them remove unneeded splitters in between their box outside and my modem (because each splitter decreases the signal intensity and adds noise) and also had them redo the coax connector ends of the cable. The stuff that was outside had corroded over time and was also causing an inconsistent/noisy connection.

Things visually improved pretty dramatically-- the signal viewed on a time scale of days had fewer spikes and wasn't as "thick" (like.. the relative standard deviation of the latency dropped.) I haven't had any issues since. In my case there were two splitters and an old union: the union and one splitter outside, and one more splitter in the basement.

I tried replacing the two splitters myself and it didn't help, even though the one outside looked like it was installed back when Alf was still on the air. Hard to say if it was all contributing to the problem or if there was one weak link... but the same is true for many people who have problems with their ISP. If the issue is further upstream than the last piece of connection coming into your house it can be a real bitch, but having the easy stuff redone can at least help half split the problem and eliminate some possible causes.

FYI if you're using a router and modem provided by your ISP (or any 'all in one' router+modem) that is another big source of issues. Most ISPs allow you to provide your own modem, but even if they require you to use their modem providing your own router is something that could help with your problems.

I had a time warner cable provided combo router/modem a few years ago and was having all sorts of issues. I replaced the router part by getting my own netgear ac1900 ( and then when time warner rolled out 350 mbit connections in my area I needed to get a better modem to utilize all the bandwidth and I replaced their modem with an Arris SB 6183 (

Wireless issues and instances where my internet stopped working and I needed to reboot the modem to fix it dropped dramatically.

u/LtRoyalShrimp · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Arris motorola SB6183 or SB6190

Have used the SB6183 for many years now, and no real issues. Small hiccups here and there when a new firmware comes out or something goes wrong on Comcast's end.

As for router, I use the Netgear R7000 Nighthawk. Its pretty nice. Fast, looks ok and simply works. Its not too flashy. I connect multiple iPhones to it, and all my consoles(Ps4, ps3, xbox 360, xbox one, WiiU, and more) and PC's and have not ever had any issues with it. I also use it with my Apple TV 4 to stream wirelessly and the speed and range are fantastic.

u/SadXbox · 1 pointr/xboxlive

I'd first of all determine if your existing router supports UPnP. if it does, make sure it is enabled and go from there.

If you have an all-in-one device from Comcast, then replacing it won't be as easy as just buying a router. but if you currently have a modem and a separate router, you can just buy any router you want. I use an ASUS router, but pretty much any router that supports UPnP should be fine. this netgear is well regarded for use with multiple Xbox consoles.

u/jumpinthedog · 1 pointr/buildapc

At the moment we have a standalone modem(i believe) and a cheap belkin router, the basement is where we use computers the tvs in the basement and ground floor are used for streaming and the upstairs is only ever needed for phones and tablets. The coverage is okay but I simply do not know much about networking. I was looking at some APs but is it better to get a standalone Router then 3 aps? at the moment we only have a handful of other networks that are in range.

Or should i keep the $20 belkin router and just put in aps?

Some that I have looked up from other sources said something like these:

1.) and




u/realmain · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If you use 5 Ghz, you should be able to get full speeds like I do. I get the same speed on WiFi, as I get if I connected via ethernet. You just need a good strong router (such as a TP-Link AC1900 (I use this one) or NETGEAR AC1900) and a good wireless adapter OR a good Wireless Bridge and connect via ethernet (I use a bridge so that I don't have to deal with Wireless Adapter drivers)

u/LittleHelperRobot · 1 pointr/cordcutters
u/Mindless_Consumer · 1 pointr/techsupport

This is what I have, and it does its job. Not sure how others feel about it. I have a large house, but we couldn't run cable to put multiple access points up, and this covers the entire place.

u/Bester2001 · 1 pointr/computers

Netgear night hawk

Even if you don't have any AC devices you'll still get a very Nice bump in range and performance, esp in throughput and overall performance

If you want something a touch cheaper get the Netgear N900 WNDR4500 $99-119 in most cases just as fast and range.

u/Ecks83 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Amazon has it for $180 though and looking at price history $200 is the highest it's been there since mid-February. >$300 for the router is a bit of a BS price...

u/diyoot · 1 pointr/teksavvy

Really depends on your needs and how much you are willing to spend (Both time and money). Do you want mesh wifi kit with antennas in each room?(go with Eero or Orbi) Do you want enterprise grade router and wireless access point? (go with edgerouter x or pfsense with unifi ap) If you want something simple like ac1900 then I would recommend you buy it now as its on sale for 44% off at amazon

u/DirkDeadeye · 1 pointr/technology baller ass router. I mean that's my guess. I don't have any boost or anything.

u/THE_DROG · 1 pointr/techsupport

This is mine.

Fantastic router. Almost never have to reboot it. Just set and forget.

u/Kay838 · 1 pointr/perktv

With 16 devices connected, two routers should be ok to handle the bandwidth. My problem with the 2 router set-up was that the routers kept on dropping the connections after a while so I upgraded. I currently use the Netgear ac1900 I am amazed at what I can do with this router - I have not had a dropped connection for months while giving it everything I've got.

u/bobowork · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Funny, I just [ordered this] ( Arrives tuesday.

u/jacobmar1ey · 1 pointr/DDWRT

I'm digging my Netgear 7000P. It covers my 2000sqft house and with a wire to my Roku it's been solid on 5Ghz and 2.4 for my family's various phones and tablets and laptops. I paid <100$ on Amazon for it.

Firmware: DD-WRT v3.0-r36070M kongac (05/31/18)
Time: 18:50:18 up 59 days, 2:54, load average: 0.29, 0.20, 0.14

u/sandman32 · 1 pointr/cordcutters

I can only speak to what I did, and am very happy with. I bought the netgear r7000, flashed dd-wrt onto it, and then setup PIA on it.

Here is the router:

Here is a guide for flashing to ddwrt (I think it's the one I used about 6 months ago).

Here is the PIA guide for setting up openvpn on a ddwrt router with PIA.

This is the beginning of what I setup. I've since done more, like only having my HTPC go through the VPN using routes on the router, and certain services bypass the VPN (plex for one). I also can throw other devices onto the VPN as needed like Roku, Xbox one, iPad, etc. But that starts getting a little deep. I love this router, and it is also recommended by, which usually provides pretty good reviews on products (headed up by a former gizmodo editor).

Good luck, and feel free to ask questions anytime.

Edit: this might be more than you want to spend, and it can be done cheaper I'm sure. The router runs about $200 usually.

u/Monoxide1 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I have the Netgear R7000.

u/niclake13 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm a big fan of the Netgear Nighthawk ( I tried out the ASUS RT-AC66U as well, and while it's good, I feel like the overall performance of the Nighthawk is better.

u/DrunkShowerHead · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

RT-AC68U is a very popular router and Asus is the most popular brand on real networking sites like Smallnetbuilder for a reason.

u/xXDanger_ZoneXx · 1 pointr/computers

If you are going to purchase a new router/modem, then I would buy those devices separately. What I mean is, purchase a modem which either works with DSL internet or Cable internet. Then purchase a router that meets your needs. Typically, the router that companies give out is actually a router and a modem in one. Separating those devices gives you better flexibility in the future. If you switch from DSL to Cable or vice versa, all you need is a new modem which is a lot cheaper than a modem/router combo. You could drop $300 on a super high-end router that won't need to get replaced if you switch to a different style of connecting.

You could purchase something like this TP Link Modem and this ASUS Router. Another company that a lot of people get routers from is Netgear. I stopped using their products after they wanted me to pay for their customer service on a product that was defective. I could understand if I broke the router, but the product never worked and now they wanted more money? No way.

u/Appok · 1 pointr/techsupport

I use a Asus n66u with merlin firmware its been rock solid for me. I like ASUS routers but Apple routers are also rock solid products too

AC is new wireless that will improve on the 5GHZ signal and AC is able to go through concert walls and such better and offer better speeds in a LAN (i think), but you will pay a premium for that.

Asus N66U-

Asus n68u -

u/samwheat90 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Some popular (and reasonably priced) routers:*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Both brands should be good-to-go out of the box, but people do like to flash either DD-WRT or Tomato firmware on them. This will give you some more options, but most likely overkill for what you're looking for atm.

Remember, it's not just the hardware. Distance from your router and your devices plays a large roll. If possible, use ethernet as much as possible or put the router as close to the clients as possible.

u/idreamincode · 1 pointr/wireless

I love the Asus AC68U. It has been great for me, stable, doesn't drop connections at all, but is pricey (~$200). Since you are on a 10Mb/s line, you won't notice the speed increase, but I figure the router will last me 4 or 5 years. Hopefully in 2 years you'll have a much faster internet pipe and won't have to change out the router.

The stability of the router trumps any savings on a cheaply made router.

Also, I have the exact same modem, the SB6121. It is a stable choice.

edit: The reason I upgraded from my Cisco/Linksys router was my internet speed increased to 100Mb/s but the 802.11n routing could only output 50-60 Mb/s and not nearly as stable.

u/Rhambuss · 1 pointr/techsupport

>If I am paying for 50 mbps up and down internet, how fast should i be downloading a steam game? I just tried it plugged up to my router and it was averaging round 1mbps but shot up to 4/5 at some points.

50 Mbit throughput connection peaks at 6.25 MB/sec, given you are actually getting 50 Mbit through the line. Don't just take your ISP's word for it though, do a speed test to validate the stability of your connection. If you are on wifi, you will experience slower speeds unless you have a really nice dual channel 5 GHz router in an area where the channels aren't over saturated with connections.

>When i downloaded the steam game however, after i downloaded 2/3rds of the game it would keep dropping to 0 bytes and staying there for a while, any idea why that is?

This could be a connection issue, depending on if you are on wired or wifi, and depending on the condition of your ethernet cable. Or it can be an issue where you are downloading faster than your hard drive can write. Go to your downloads section and look at your drive activity, or look in the Windows task manager and look at what the write time is on your hard drive. Eg: is it pegged at 100%?

>I'm thinking about getting a new router because my wifi is very shotty, slow, and weak. what kind would you recommend?

This probably leads me to assume you are on wifi which explains everything you are experiencing. This Asus RT-AC68U will do anything you need it to, and then some.

As always, I recommend you to connect any system you will use for gaming hard wired, no matter how good of a wifi router you have. Even if I had this bad boy, I would still go with a Gigabit ethernet connection over wifi for a gaming machine, or anything that was data extensive. Save wifi for mobile devices that you are actually moving around with.

u/MKEman · 1 pointr/techsupport

Do not purchase a router with the ADSL modem built in. A straight router, I could recommend the Asus RT-AC68U or the TP Link Archer C9 i

u/DrewsChainz · 1 pointr/cedarrapids

What is your data plan with Mediacom?

What is your budget for a new router?

Do you own a modem compatible with Mediacom? Or are you looking to buy a modem-router combo?

I’ve been using the ASUS RT-AC68U over the last year. I have it centrally located on the 1st floor. It provides excellent coverage to my basement and 2nd floor.

Note, you’ll need to pair this with a cable modem as it is not a modem-router combo. I pair mine with the NETGEAR CM1000.

u/Rirruto10 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Thanks for the reply. My router is the Tmobile Cellspot Router. Here are the specs of the router:

It is basically a TMobile branded Asus router (

I'll have to dig around for a different cable but will try that soon. Any idea on why WiFi on my PC is relatively slow also (around 40-50 down) even though my phones and tablets are solid (around 150 down)? WiFi adapter on PC is 802.11 b/g/n.

u/Officer_John117 · 1 pointr/technology

Umm, 802.11ac is the most current standard, newer than 802.11n.

And I would recomened an Asus AC router like this one.

u/Juten · 1 pointr/buildapc

IMO you cant go wrong with the asus ac68u or those in the same family. 200US

cheaper: 170US

cheaper still 130US

All of those are probably more power than you need, but im big on future proofing. Those routers will be with you for a long time. All of those almost fit under the 150 euro with the exception being the most expensive, but its like 5 or 6 euro off. The top two are both AC with the last one being wireless N. If you want the future proofing go for one of the top two, if you want the here and now get the bottom one.

u/Bittoman · 1 pointr/tmobile

It's based on the Asus 1900ac router and the firmware does most of the heavy lifting.

u/Alarchy · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife
  • Cheap and decent (~65 USD): Dlink DIR655

    Has all the basics for modern laptops/computers. 802.1n wireless, gigabit ethernet ports. I've had one for around 7 years, and only ever rebooted it to install firmware updates. Good range (~25Mbps signal from basement to 2nd story). Recently replaced it just because I have some AC capable wireless NICs now. Unless you're doing home file sharing, it will be plenty fast for streaming, gaming, downloading (unless you have google fiber).

  • Expensive and really good (~220 USD): ASUS RT-AC68 with Asuswrt-Merlin firmware

    Super fast, tons of features, tons of customizations, rock solid. Only reboots on firmware updates. The merlin firmware is based on the OEM firmware - but has additional customization options (professional wireless settings and tuning, etc.) and squeezes a bit more speed out of the thing.
u/LouDiamond · 1 pointr/techsupport

well, the wifi would mostly be for family iphones (misc generations) and a couple tablets bought w/in the last 18 months (nexus 7, asus transformer).

If i'm reading this correctly, some routers push across multiple bands for these old devices? like this asus router

> Up to 1900 Mbps, 802.11AC(1300Mbps over 5G) + 802.11N(600Mbps over 2.4G).

Am i reading that correctly? Would it be a mofo to get set up? Or does it share security protocol for both bands?


u/ferthur · 1 pointr/wireless

It's hardly an ideal home router, but I'm absolutely loving my Ubiquiti EdgeRouter but at around $175 US, and with NO WIFI, it's probably not what you're looking for. I recently picked up an Asus wifi router though, and I'm loving that as well, though I wish I had spent more and gotten the RT-AC68U, but at about $200 that's also probably not ideal. I have the AC1200 (RT-AC56R) model and picked it up at walmart for about $100, it lacks exterior antennae, but coverage at my apartment seems good, and it will function as just an access point if you do end up getting the EdgeRouter from Ubiquiti, or just want to later extend your wireless coverage. Here is an image of my current networking setup taken with my potato. The SMC box beneath the EdgeRouter is the modem charter has given me, with the Asus RT-AC56R next to it on the right.

Edit: Forgot I was in /r/wireless... Even lacking wireless, with the POE (Power Over Ethernet) that the EdgeRouter provides, you can relatively easily add a ($70...) wireless access point to the thing, but then you'll be over budget if you just got the wireless Asus router. You could also just get a cheap wireless router to use with it, but if you just get the Asus you'll get a very pretty looking dual-band wireless router.

u/_blur_ · 1 pointr/Chromecast

I would recommend the Asus RT-AC66u - $150 on Amazon over any Linksys (I have owned several higher end Linksys/Cisco routers as well as the Asus). I've had my Asus for about 18 months now and it handles everything I can throw at it (I have 3 chromecasts and over a dozen other devices connected to the router at any given time). It has a fairly powerful multi-core processor and plenty of RAM. There is a newer model which is probably even more powerful.

RT-AC68u (newer model)

u/fantom_farter · 1 pointr/wireless

They both will work.

Modem seems good, DOCSIS 3 is def the way to go. For router, if you can spring for it I would go with this. Wireless AC is great for the home, even if you don't use it today you will see benefits eventually. Especially if you doing any kind of media sharing over wireless.

u/pasher7 · 1 pointr/ATT

If you are under 2300 sq feet this should work just fine:

Make sure you turn off the wifi on the pace 5268ac and put it in bridge mode.

Also make sure your problem is with the Wifi not the internet connection by connecting your computer to the ethernet port on your pace 5268ac and testing (make sure you turn of the wifi on the computer when you do this).

u/IceAcolyte · 1 pointr/buildapc

Look on slickdeals, you'll find more help there (because more up-to-date deals)

I would recommend separate modem + router for various reasons.
I'm currently with Xfinity, and I've been using this modem ($75, 5 years old) & router ($120, 5 years old).

These are ancient stuff though, there's a lot of cheaper ones now, just grab one on sale.

u/zoemi · 1 pointr/Austin

We're looking at this one:

According to bf, he wants this one because it has Broadcom (so good support for Apple devices) and it has DD-WRT support. It is pricey though--just under $200. Even though that's an Amazon link, we'll probably buy from Newegg due to no tax.

u/SpeclalK · 1 pointr/ProjectFi


Range Extender

I live in a small town that is down in a river valley. There is barely any cell service because of the surrounding hills, and I have a little over an acre of property. The main reason why I switched to Fi was to have wifi calling/texting available no matter where I am on my property.

u/fleabait1 · 1 pointr/answers

these are great and will last you a long time. it will handle all those devices and then whatever else you throw at it.

u/hwkg · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Mainstream routers YMMV, but I've had a lot of good experience with the ASUS RT series (not the "gamery" ones) and a lot of bad ones with anything Nighthawk (Saw 2 fail within 6 months of purchase at 2 separate locations, and I live in the sticks)

The catch is that you both can't get a gigabit at the same time, but that's the case anyway. You'll both go over one 1gb backhaul to the router. If you had greater than a gigabit speed or something you MAY see slowdowns. Your network topology though, you'll be more than fine.

And you don't need something expensive either. Stuff like these will do you just fine:



u/Griffolion · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Yes, not only that, but you would need to set the time-warner modem/router to "pass through" rather than being where your network "starts". It will pass through the internet connection straight to your new router, which will then act as the DHCP server for the devices on your network.

My recommendation is to invest in a better modem as well as a router:

u/TSI-Jon · 1 pointr/teksavvy

I'm going to have to disagree with you guys. Though I won't argue the superior performance that comes with a high end router (I have the AC-RT68U), a cheaper router can be completely usable, reliable and provide decent performance.

Prior to this router I was using a Cisco E2500 (which I got for $40ish) that I had flashed with DD-WRT. In the 4+ years that I had that router, I never had an issue with it. I really only replaced it because our new house was way too big for it and I was getting 4 Mbps in my office from my 40 Mbps package. Hence why I went with the best I could find, I needed the range.

For tasks such as basic streaming or web browsing, what the average user is doing, spending more than $120ish on a router isn't really necessary unless range is an issue. Sure, there are many more features, but the average customer isn't running an FTP server, using their router for NAS or needs remote access to their network whenever they want.

/u/Sparkum, you do need to use one of the approved modems. The modem that we sell, the ZyXel VSG1432, is a wireless all in one modem. It may serve your needs just fine, it's not a bad idea to try it out before spending more by getting a separate router. Though if you're concerned about the absolute best experience possible, a separate router would likely be a good investment.

Let me know if you have any questions.

u/hawk121 · 1 pointr/uverse

I run my own router behind the Uverse RG. Remember that since it's AT&T's property that you're leasing, they can do whatever they want remotely. They've pushed firmware updates to my RG that have completely obliterated my wifi and firewall settings. Maybe they're not supposed to reset it, but they have, more than once. If you run your own router, it's under YOUR control.

Instead of the router you linked, I'd suggest this one. It's what I have, and I get great coverage and throughput.

u/iceS0 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Asus 68U-$200 Asus 66u $156. These are the best consumer routers on the market. The Netgear routers are really good too. The Asus UI is really simple and you can hover over words like port forward and a little box will pop up and will give you an explanation of it.

u/JFizDaWiz · 1 pointr/tmobile
u/johndavidwright · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking