Best construction marking tools according to redditors

>I always make sure they don't mention my company name

It's the same brand name, Hagoromo. So they only mentioned it a few dozen times.

Great Big is an advertising firm by nature.

"We know the perfect mix of data and emotional resonance to tell stories that embody your brand, and we have the global platform to reach them."

Countour Gage - $18.

Or what looks like this exact one, $9.

No, a Korean company has bought the formula and is now marketing the chalk. Possibly virally.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Hagoromo-Fulltouch-Chalk-72pcs-White/dp/B01HDNUXBW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Hagoromo&qid=1556841896&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Let's look at some numbers then.

You need a cable tester, that's $370 for this, the bare minimum tester you can use.. The right tester is like $7k to buy, probably around $500 to rent for a week, so we're cutting corners.

Then, you need a spool of plenum cat6a. It makes no sense to use cat6, because you can't do 10g over it for any real distance. That's $275, again, the bare minimum you can buy.

Then, you need a tool set. $60, they're cheap, but you'll only use them once. I don't buy cheap tools, your company is less discerning.

Lets spec for 10 wall plates. 13.95 for keystones, $12 for wall plates, 10 mud rings for $85 because you need retrofits for existing construction for a section total of 110.95

Then you need a patch panel to punch all the cables down. That's 47.81 for the bare minimum. Make sure you punch it right the first time, because you'll get maybe 3 punches out of a port before you have to toss it.

You'll also need this $32 fish tape, and this pull string for 14.73

To hang the cable, you'll need these plus some zip ties and some screws to attach everything. Also, you'll need a couple rolls of plenum velcro to wrap cables and get everything tidy-ish. Let's be conservative here and call that $50 all told.

That's 950.49 before you've even paid taxes or shipping, but whatever, we've left off the biggest cost here.

Your Time

Now, let's assume you make 20 bucks an hour (it's probably more). You probably cost the company 30 bucks an hour with everything else they pay for to have you employed (again, it's probably more). You'll spend 15 hours to complete this project provided you work fast and don't make mistakes. That's two full workdays in fairy tale land where you're already good at this. So let's call it 20 hours of learning how to cable and making mistakes and actual cabling, plus say 2 hours to clean up the mess you'll make (there will be mess).

All told, it'll cost the company 1610.49 for this install.

100 bucks more than you were quoted to have a guy with zero experience to install a network that will be critical to business operations for years. Sounds like a deal!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDNUXBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fi0YCbYE0THEN

I guess you could use a contour copier in segments. You'd need to establish some kind of baseline to measure off of, but that's how amateur hour right here would do it.

Tungsten carbide tipped scribe. Similar to this one https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88CM-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S1

It's a contour gauge. For transferring a contour to a work piece.

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA

It's for copying the profile of moulding.

Edit: This specific one is a General Tools 837 Contour Gauge Duplicator

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA

At that distance they will likely be using their own rope/mule tape and only need a simple string to pull the rope in. Something like this or what I normally use as it's always on the truck anyway this.

You could use a contour guage to copy the outline exactly onto paper and then scan that onto your computer. Then use that to create a vector and import that into your 3D software.

If you need any more precise details on how to do that just ask!

General Tools 837 Contour Gauge Duplicator, 6-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jUNCzbW4CSXA1

If you do any tiling, I also use the hell out of this:

General Tools 837 Metal Contour Gauge, Profile Gauge, Shape Duplicator, 6-Inch (152mm), Stainless Steel Pins, Precisely Copy Irregular Shapes For Perfect Fit and Easy Cutting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v14UCb2S9WJW1

It's a tungsten carbide scribe tool - albeit a very inexpensive one. Works really well, found this one on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789H9G12/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Aside from the usual stuff, I love my scribr which I use for scribing and cleaning panel lines, and for making an indent to start drill holes for example in the tips of 1/72 gun barrels. Photoetched razor saws that fit in the X-acto knife. And Dremel steel cutters

It’s a scribe. Like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7S0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_mmB2CbSBQN28P

Marking Gauge

Contour Gauge

Pull Saw

There's a shaping thing I see advertised a lot on the WoodWorkWeb Youtube channel, except today when I want to find it. But it's a bunch of straight edges that are held together with wing nuts and you use to to replicate odd shapes for cutting to fit.

I'd never heard of this till you brought it up, but it's amazing that there's a chalk that mathematicians are mourning the demise of.

Surprisingly, it's available on Amazon, but at a truly ridiculous price.

I think this is the original Hagoromo Fulltouch White Chalk 72pcs by Hagoromo Bungu https://www.amazon.in/dp/B007R76ND2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PhkZCb5G7E7Y7

It's for ₹17,241/-!!!!!

But there's also this one, for a less ridiculous price of ₹1,674 for a pack of 12

HAGOROMO Fulltouch Color Chalk 1 Box, Non-Toxic, Dustless [12 Pcs/10Color Mix] https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01HDNVHYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9kkZCbVNTM5AH

and in a pack of 72, for ₹6,166/-

Hagoromo Fulltouch 5-Color Mix Chalk 1Box 72pcs Red Yellow Blue Orange Yellow Green https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01HDNVDOI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AmkZCb4KMG8GH


I'm guessing the first is a legacy pack from the original manufacturer, and the latter two are from the company that took over the brand. And the box has print in Hangul, as opposed to the Kanji on the original, so I'm guessing this is a Korean manufacturer, not Japanese.

I think I would skip the 3D scanner and work with measurements instead.

I would buy a $10 tool to measure contours like this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA

I would also buy a small dry erase board to capture notes in the background of photographs. My dry erase board would have messages such as "cross section #1" next to the contour measurement tool so you can keep your contour measurements organized.

Lastly, I would buy graph paper with your preferred square spacing, I would transfer the captured cross-section contours onto known coordinates on the graph paper. The measurements from the graph paper captures can be converted to splines in your favorite CAD software and then converted to sweeps or lofts.

An oscillating multi-tool with a cutting head and then judicious use of a chisel/screwdriver and hammer would let you cut a little into the jamb, letting the new flooring go under it a bit to hide the ugly cuts. (the same thing could be accomplished with a flush-cut saw if manual is your style)

You could also get a profile/contour gauge and use that to duplicate the jamb shape exactly and transfer it onto the tile and very, very carefully cut out the shape using a sharp knife. This method will be harder, of course.

Yes, when running in the ceiling (assuming normal drywall on joist ceiling), it will be monumentally easier to run cable in the ceiling on the short axis of the building (ie, in the joist bays). Anything that traverses the longer side will likely be easier in the basement or crawlspace. If you need to do runs perpendicular to the joists, then you will need to drill through the joists (IF you do this, PLEASE research and know what you are doing! Cutting in the wrong place or too big of a hole could cause serious structural issues! (Diagram of some restrictions, yours may differ)and conduit may be a good idea, but its certainly not required. Buy some poly line, and just run it with the wires. If, in the future, you need to pull more wires, you can tape some on the end and pull them through

​

No need to avoid electrical wires, just dont run them in parallel for very far. In general, they should cross at a right angle, but if you dont follow this exactly, its usually not the end of the world

​

Also, use Fireblock! Any opening that traverses floors should be fire foamed and sealed. The last thing you want to do is introduce life safety issues should you have a fire.

​

Lastly, you forgot drywall tools (hawk/trowel, knives, texture in a can and mud). I ran a lot of ethernet through my new house when I first moved in. I cut a lot of holes and got really good at patching them seamlessly. Because no matter what you think now, if you want to do it right, you might need to open some walls.

I posted this in another thread asking similar things.

When you pull wire at a min you should pull two wires. Ideally you will pull 4-6 wires. You don't have to terminate all of them, you can leave service loop behind the wall or wherever. If I were to wire my house I would pull 4 Cat6a and 2 RG6 (coax) to every room (maybe two runs to each room). You can use one of the Cat6A for phone. The 2 coax allows for dish tv too.
I don't have my house wired because I use wireless network (Ubiquiti AP Pro) , wireless phone, and don't watch cable tv :)

http://www.ecmweb.com/content/basics-pulling-wire

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Electrical-Electrical-Tools-Wire-Conduit-Tools-Fish-Tape-Poles/N-5yc1vZbm7s

https://www.harborfreight.com/wire-running.html

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-6-500-ft-Pulling-Line-56110/100660172

https://www.lowes.com/pl/Fish-tape-poles-Electrical-testers-tools-Electrical/4294722452

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-430-500-Tracer-Green-500-Foot/dp/B001UKL6BG/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KEVC38PW0T32VYWZDKP2

Edit: FYI I used to install IPTV for an ISP so I ran wire in all kinds of houses. Its not as hard as you may think once you start doing it.

https://www.amazon.com/Hagoromo-Fulltouch-Chalk-72pcs-White/dp/B01HDNUXBW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=HAGOROMO%20CHALK&qid=1556808350&s=gateway&sr=8-4&tag=viglink4772385-20

Right in the article

If you've got the money BMC chisels are the ones to get. They're really high quality and that means you're sure to get smooth and straight cuts when scribing. But they can be really pricey for 1 size of chisels. The panel lining tool from Mr. Hobby or Tamiya like this and this are great as well. These engravers come with varying heads sold separately not just for panel lining but for chisels as well (shapes like the ones for wood working, which is great for battle damage work). You should use different size engravers or chisels for different grades and to make different effects. I personally use the one from Mr. Hobby and it's been a breeze to use.

Scribing isn't too complicated. What you want to get is panel lining guide tape like this or just some old regular dymo tape. These tapes act as a guide like a ruler for you to make straight lines. You might also want to get something like this template to make more generic shapes.

I recommend going over your gunpla with a pencil to draw the panel line design you like, there are a ton of inspiration to draw from. After laying down the guide tape, use a pencil first to see if the line is in the correct position. Using guide tape instead of dymo tape is better in this case because your pencil line is more visible. There's nothing worse than finding out that your line isn't completely level after carving. Make thin, light strokes to make panel lines, never go at it in one deep stroke. I personally do 5-7 strokes to make my panel lines

A tool like this can also come in handy to make start/end points so your chisel will lock into place at the small divots. Try to make the divots approximately the same size as your chisel, otherwise you'll end up with panel lines that have big holes on either side.

Sand your gunpla after making a panel line with a high grit sand paper, this evens out the surface.

Important to note that don't worrying about screwing up! You can always use something like Tamiya putty to fill in the mistakes, let dry and start all over again. But I also recommend getting some plaplates to practice engraving especially if you're going to be doing shapes.

Go on and checkout Gunpla Lab on youtube and watch their HG Tristan Revival Project. One of the videos (episode 5 i think) go over panel lining in quite detail and it's a really good watch. Be sure to turn on english subtitles though because they speak korean, but they hire english translators so their subtitles are really good.

Hope this helps!

Like this?

Hagoromo is back available. https://www.amazon.com/Hagoromo-Fulltouch-Chalk-72pcs-White/dp/B01HDNUXBW

​

I just bought it off amazon. They cost about $20-ish dollars with shipping and tax.

I spent a lot of time stenciling with cardboard and a scribing tool Profiler+ The Ultimate Scribing Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z21QAMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AN2QCbBNYE1S4

So I had the whole wall covered in taped together pieces of cardboard, which I removed in one piece (scary) and overlaid on the sheet of ply. Traced, straightened out some of the lines with straight edge, cut with a jig saw with clean cut blade.

Scribing is awkward, gets you close enough. I used a cut down golf pencil to get into the tight spaces.

o-ring pick / scriber. I’ve used cheap ones to take out o-rings, but also for part retrieval in little confined spaces.

They’re crazy useful, but watch that ice-pick-end.

Sure!

Saw

Marking wheel

Here you go!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bz5wCbKK4YN5W

You could use a contour duplicator like this. Then just take a good photo of it on a contrasting background and use it as a reference to create your curve

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=pd_aw_fbt_469_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00004T7RA&pd_rd_r=dbd773db-b16a-11e8-a8ea-092258445276&pd_rd_w=EAGxj&pd_rd_wg=ogXXZ&pf_rd_i=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=dd8a995f-8b57-442f-a55e-88872c7ccc7b&pf_rd_r=DST0T5R1GWF3XSA0G4KB&pf_rd_s=mobile-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=DST0T5R1GWF3XSA0G4KB

If you watch til the end of the video it says that the formula is still used, new chalk is available, and hoarding was for nothing.....(2:50)

The amazon is below and is for Hagoromo name brand full touch chalk
https://www.amazon.com/Hagoromo-Fulltouch-Chalk-72pcs-White/dp/B01HDNUXBW

That's a shame. :/ My kennel tries to use either temporary spray paint(washes away with water) or shredded paper for public areas like gardens and parks, and I highly recommend others do the same.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA

https://www.amazon.com/Hagoromo-Fulltouch-Chalk-72pcs-White/dp/B01HDNUXBW/

If you're not looking for the original (Japanese-made that ceased production) chalk. Either way not sure you can beat performance you get for this price.

Awesome info! Yeah I hate to admit it but I'm just not sure how good I'll be at doing them by hand, but I'd love to know its me and not the tools if I fail lol. So I'm glad you told me what you started with. What do you think of this as a marking gauge? iGaging Wheel Marking Gauge

A good chisel to go along with her rock hammer is great for sampling

Also, a scratcher/scribe with a neodymium magnet on the end is incredibly useful for testing hardness and magnetics of a rock

I use a compact mineral identification guide a ton as well. There are many out there, but this one is the one I use - others may be better

Edit: And the most (imo) important part of fieldwork are the notes you take, so a waterproof field notebook is a must-have if she'll be mapping in a rainy environment. This one has geological charts and diagrams in it as well


Above are good lower priced items, but if you really want to go all-out, good boots and a rain jacket are indispensable , but they have to fit very well so she may be better off picking those out herself (at least that's the way I feel about them)

Hope this helps!

• Use this...
  
  
• Copy the design onto your material
  
  
• Cut it out
  
  
• Profit

Thanks for the question! It's a marking gauge, which is used to scribe a line parallel to an edge. They're relatively cheap on Amazon and are awesome to have in the arsenal!

Some sort of chalk/paint spray may work well, too. For example, this chalk spray. This way, the ball can bounce/roll into the circle w/out running into the hula hoop.

I'm assuming this does not damage grass, but I could be wrong.

Here’s something cool I’ll bet your friend would use a lot but doesn’t have. Carpentry Scriber Double Headed Scriber Woodworking Double-Line Marking Gauge Ruler Tools for Carpenters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWV4WXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2hcuDb19X99ET

Here’s a much more common marking gauge any woodworker would like: Newkiton Wheel Marking Gauge, 1 Bearing Wheel Cutter for Soft Wood, 1 Locked Up Wheel Cutter for Hard Wood, 1 Screwdriver Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2XCZLL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_flcuDb2J62R12

We woodworkers are suckers for anything made partly or entirely from brass, and we all love marking tools. If your friend already has a similar marking tool, don’t worry, I have multiple marking tools and it is kind of like clamps, you can usually get by with what you have but you can always use more.

A profile guage.

Three things he's missing here from a 30+ year modelling/gaming vet:

Using a push pin is great...on 28mm plastics. If you're dealing with metals, that pin isn't going to last long. I use a Tungsten Carbide Scriber to mark my pilot holes, (this does other duties with scratchbulding plasticard)

Using paperclips is ok if you're doing this casually. I've found 1/32" (and other sizes) brass rod is less hassle as it's A: thinner diameter B: No unfolding and straightening, and C: puts less wear and tear on cutters (you can use your sprue trimmers with no ill effect). Also works great as scratch-built hand holds on tanks, antennae, arrow shafts, etc.

He missed a great oppurtunity to share the ancient art of locating the opposing hole with a bit of blu-tak (poster putty). Comes in handy particularly when the first hole isn't centered, or you're pinning to an area that isn't obvious where the mating hole goes (uneven surface, etc)

• Drill hole A as he did on the thunderhammer bearing side.
  
  
• Stick a small ball of blu-tak on the opposing side B where you want to drill the mating hole.
  
  
• Spit on the back of your hand, and apply side A to spit.
  
  
• Apply side A to side B exactly where you want it with force, then slowly remove side A. A casting of side A hole will be on side B.
  
  
• Drill into side B exactly where the casting is, enough to start the hole. Remove blu-tak, finish drilling. Voila.

I have this one and it seems ot do the job well enough: https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525452451&sr=8-1&keywords=igaging+34-707

I was considering something like that. Maybe spray chalk too.

https://www.amazon.com/Krylon-5894-Marking-Chalk-White/dp/B000PJ67M6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1525827720&sr=8-4&keywords=chalk+spray

The problem with vintage is they are not commonly in good condition, or at a good price and are rarely both. You need help now. I like my two woodriver planes and think it's a great option. I have had the Stanley one there and it's not good. Also the z saw and the gyo are essentially the same thing.

Here are some things I think are better values or super useful.

https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542519&sr=8-1&keywords=narex+chisels

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Shop-Hammer-13-Oz/dp/B0037MHXVW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542635&sr=8-1&keywords=japanese+chisel+hammer

https://www.amazon.com/DMT-D3EFC-Dia-Sharp-Extra-Fine-Diamond/dp/B00006IIO3/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542814&sr=8-11&keywords=dmt+diasharp

https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-34-707-Wheel-Marking-Gauge/dp/B00B3ZS2J2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491542992&sr=8-2&keywords=marking+gauge

Yes, A nail or (scribe)[http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88CM-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S1/] would be your best bet for very long term, not scrubbing off, food-safe method for marking metal (and maybe glass)

https://smile.amazon.com/Hagoromo-Fulltouch-5-Color-Yellow-Orange/dp/B01HDNVDOI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=hagoromo&qid=1557097343&s=gateway&sr=8-1

That’s a link to the new company’s chalk. They have smaller boxes too.

This will really help, plus a coping saw and some caulk.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7RA

this is a contour gauge

For complex shapes, I prefer one of these

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-6-Inch-Contour-Duplication/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368369782&sr=8-1&keywords=contour+tool

They are fantastic for transferring those shapes to wood, metal etc.

I would suggest snapping a chalk line on your existing countertop, about an inch away from the wall. That way you know you are keeping the contour gauge at a consistent distance from your target shape.

Or this will work as well

Don't use scrap steel. Go here http://newjerseysteelbaron.com/ and buy some 3/32" 1075 (2) inches wide. Cut out your pattern using some cheap, thin (1/8" thick) A36 steel plate that you can get at a scrap yard. Draw your pattern on paper, cut it out (roughly) and glue it to the A36 with that white glue we used in the first grade. Drill the rivet holes BEFORE you cut out the pattern. Cause once you cut out the pattern it is difficult to clamp in a vice. Once you have the pattern the way you want it clamp the pattern to the 1075 down on your bench and etch around it and mark the holes with this https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-88-Tungsten-Carbide/dp/B00004T7S0/ref=pd_yo_rr_bia_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6KE1W903PPP22FSCHQC6 Drill the holes BEFORE you cut it out. Buy some temp ssticks at a welding store. Get 1450 degree and 1500 degree sticks. That way you will know when its hot enough to quench. Canola oil is ok to quench 1075.

Link

Here are some commonly used and often overlooked tools that I use every day and have multiples of in case one goes missing

Spring Punch:
https://smile.amazon.com/Starrett-18AA-Automatic-Adjustable-Diameter/dp/B0006J4Q5U/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1503860094&sr=8-11&keywords=spring+punch

Picks/Scribes:
https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-80-Fixed-Scriber/dp/B00004T7RW/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1503860130&sr=1-2&keywords=pick+scribe

small flashlight:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X2QMKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edge Technology Speedy tool height setter: (This thing is badass and super quick for manual lathe setup)
http://www.edgetechnologyproducts.com/speedy-lathe-gage/

Contour Gauge Duplicator
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA

It's a scriber for marking/etching metal, ceramic, glass etc. Similar to this one.

Agreed.

I have a Contour Gauge for doing stuff like this.
They're pretty cheap. You can measure the curve, take a pic and then draw a matching curve in your 3d modelling program.

Edit: Link to amazon https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Contour-Gauge-Duplicator-Inch/dp/B01CRKCKVM/ref=pd_lpo_469_tr_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JK18VT3G02NFG5NCRNCY

Its a Wolfcraft one.
They have a Website and sell via Amazon

Edit: added Link

I see this one rated highest and this is the one I personally own for auto body....


General Tools 837 Metal Contour Gauge, Profile Gauge, Shape Duplicator, 6-Inch (152mm), Stainless Steel Pins, Precisely Copy Irregular Shapes For Perfect Fit and Easy Cutting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7RA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uFFnDb3HJF6P9

Greenlee 430-500 Poly Fish Line, Tracer Green, 500-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UKL6BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3ZP1AbM5A9E15

Greenlee 430 Poly Fish Line Tracer Green, 6500-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001M0NTIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_C0P1AbBNX9FH9

“General USA” is about all I know. I’m not even sure where I got it. Here is a picture of it https://imgur.com/a/bsA30mC


EDIT: Looks like it's probably from this General Tools company and it's pretty cheap too https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-380B-Two-Point-Scriber/dp/B0031EQQDC I'm glad you asked, I'll probably pick up a couple of these.

I assume you have not used hand tools much.

The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.

There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.

But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.

A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.

This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.

I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.

A Mallet to hit the chisel.

I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.

Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.

A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.

A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.

That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.

A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Good Luck.

If anyone wants to carve theirs, use an Etching Pen if you want more control.

Use one of these. It'll be painstaking and you should watch a couple videos on how to do it but you should be able to get almost exactly what you're looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Contour-Duplicator-6-Inch/dp/B00004T7RA

I would agree with the previous comment to buy as you need, BUT if you’re looking for recommendations, two must haves for me are:

Fourth hand

Scribe

Since you're a student, instead of an engraver you could get a carbide scribe instead. I love mine and use it to mark my tools.

This is the one I use, got it cheaper at Ace Hardware. General Tools 88 Tungsten Carbide Scriber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7S0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kvVZCb5BJTQYX

If it makes you feel better, those are nontoxic Cattle Crayons - they're made out of edible wax.

https://www.amazon.com/Livestock-marker-Cattle-Crayon-Animal/dp/B07CY19B7M

https://www.amazon.com/Hagoromo-Fulltouch-Chalk-72pcs-White/dp/B01HDNUXBW

Box of 72, $17.00

Calm your tits.