Raw storage:

• 72TB (9 x 8TB RAIDZ2)
  
  
• 36TB (9 x 4TB RAIDZ2)
  
  Total 108TB(18 drives)
  
  Actual storage:
  
  
• 48TiB
  
  
• 24TiB
  
  Total 72TiB
  
  Case:
  
  
• Nanoxia Deep Silence 6 Rev. B
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSFDSUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 for parts
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Nanoxia-Computer-Controllers-Motherboard-NXDS3B/dp/B00M49SNVI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497552150&sr=8-2&keywords=nanoxia+deep+silence
  
  Used the two bay 3.5" cage, and three bay 2.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3 case.
  
  Fans:
  
  
• 2 140mm top
  
  
• 2 140mm front
  
  
• 2 120mm middle
  
  
• 1 140mm back
  
  
• 2 140mm cpu
  
  Used two 120mm case fans from the Deep Silence 3 case between the two stacks of drives.
  
  Motherboard: Supermicro X10SRA-F
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7ZK10S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  CPU: Intel Xeon E5-1620 v3 3.5GHz
  
• https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117512&cm_re=intel_1620-_-19-117-512-_-Product
  
  Heatsink: Noctua DH-D15
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L7UZMAK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  RAM:
  
  
• Micron ECC Registered - 8gb x 4
  
  
• Mircon ECC Registered - 4gb x 4
  
  Total 48gb
  
  PSU: Corsair AX1500i
  
  Controllers:
  
  
• Motherboard - 10 ports
  
  
• LSI 9211-8i - 8 ports
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL8I7M/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• Marvell - 2 ports
  
  Total 20 ports
  
  NIC: Mellanox Connectx-2 10g
  
• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178CNZ9U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  OS Disks: 2 x Intel 330 60GB, mdadm RAID1
  
  Storage Disks:
  
  
• 9 x Western Digital Red 8TB WD80EFZX
  
  • http://www.bestbuy.com/site/wd-easystore-8tb-external-usb-3-0-hard-drive-black/5792401.p?skuId=5792401
    
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BYLY4DM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    Seven shucked from Best Buy WD easystore externals and two from Amazon as internals.
    
    
• 9 x 4TB drives, mix of Seagates and HGST NAS
  
  • 2 x ST4000DM000
    
  • 2 x ST4000DX000
    
  • 4 x HGST_HDN724040ALE640
    
  • 1 x HGST_HDN726040ALE614
    
    • http://www.frys.com/product/9112138?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
      
      I originally shucked the Seagates from externals. I have replaced the Seagates as they fail, and I had one fail during this upgrade. Yes, I have had five Seagate failures.
      
      SATA/SAS cables:
      
      
• 10 36" SATA cables
  
  • http://www.frys.com/product/8057794?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
    
    
• 2 24" SATA cables
  
  • http://www.frys.com/product/8057804?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
    
• 2 SAS four port breakout cables
  
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018YHS8BS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    OS: Fedora 25 with ZFS for Linux
    
    Cost:
    
    
• Around $2800 without storage
  
  
• Around $3200 for storage
  
  
• Around $6000 total
  
  The cost was spread across years. This is more like two builds in one. My old build with the motherboard, memory, heatsink, CPU, and 4tb drives combined with my new 8tb build. With the 4tb drives I have replaced five of nine drives over time, which has driven up the real total cost.
  
  The case is huge, but all the space is nice. You don't feel like you are cramming anything in. I used a Fractal Design R5 for my previous build, and prefer Fractal Design cases to Nanoxia cases. But the biggest Fractal Design case wouldn't quite suit my needs. Even this was a stretch for the Deep Silence 6 case. I wish the Deep Silence 6 had spots to mount 2.5" drives on the back side like the R5. It is a feature I miss.
  
  I have a few issues. The trays and the screw holes on the WD 8tb drives don't match. The WD drives are missing the middle bottom screw holes. My temporary workaround is strong 3M double sticky foam tape with two screws. I may use a drill and drill holes in the sides of the trays. I had to tape down the 2.5" cage, but the drives are so light it is not a big deal.
  
  After building this beast I had the window closed, the door shut, and no room fan for one day. The room was quite warm. I have since opened the window, turned on the fan, and left the door open.
  
  My Kill-a-watt peaked at 450 watts during boot. It idles between 200-220 watts. So I could go back to my AX760 from my previous build with SATA power splitters.
  
  I still have one tray free, but no extra drive or SATA port.
  
  I was originally going to move the four bay 3.5" cage from the Deep Silence 3, but it was just too integrated into the case. I tried adapting it, and it didn't come out well. Even if it had, the bottom tray was going to sit below the lip of the side of the case. So that tray would have been less accessible.
  
  I am currently copying 18tb from the old array to the new array as a burn-in test.
  
  I got the original idea to build with this case from someone else's post. I probably would have just bought another Fractal Design R5, and run two systems otherwise. I have run two systems for storage before, connected them with 10g, and used iSCSI. When I did I used, https://romanrm.net/mhddfs , to merge the filesystems together. I am considering doing the same again.
  
  With the right cages you could probably fit around 26 3.5" drives in this case.
  
  Over time I have gone from 250gb to 500gb to 1tb to 1.5tb to 2tb to 4tb to 8tb drives. I didn't think I would be upgrading to 8tb anytime soon, until the Best Buy easystore deal. In the past I mostly purchased on Black Fridays. In more recent years externals from Costco.
  
  TLDR: I built a new server combining an existing 24TiB ZFS with a new array of 36TiB ZFS for the win!

There's actually some good stuff in the mix:

• EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 XC ULTRA GAMING, 8GB GDDR6, Dual HDB Fans & RGB LED Graphics Card 08G-P4-2183-KR - $562.24 (30% off $799.99)
  
  
• Noctua NH-D15, Premium CPU Cooler with 2x NF-A15 PWM 140mm Fans - $62.13 (31% off $89.95)
  
  
• G.Skill GP-PL850A-CWV1 Ripjaws PS850P 850W 80+ Platinum Full Modular Intel/AMD Ready Gaming PC ATX 12V Power Supply - $87.06 (44% off $155.91)
  
  
• Samsung 860 QVO 1TB Solid State Drive (MZ-76Q1T0) V-NAND, SATA 6Gb/s, Quality and Value Optimized SSD - $66.95 (26% off $89.99)
  
  
• WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0A - $74.39 (32% off $109.99)
  
  
• WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB Internal PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280, Up to 560 MB/s - WDS100T2B0B - $73.90 (33% off $109.99)
  
  
• Apple iPad Pro (12.9-inch, Wi-Fi, 256GB) - Space Gray (Latest Model) - $763.44 (27% off $1,049.00)

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price
:--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99


Earbuds| Price
:--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price
:--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26



CPU Coolers| Price
:--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)

PSU| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)

Cases| Price
:--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart

HDD| Price
:--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)

Input Devices| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)


Networking| Price
:--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price
:--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125


I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.

 

EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!

 

EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal

 

EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


 

Definitely get a cheap 3rd party cooler for that CPU my dude. An H7 would do just fine.

Edit: On second thought, Cryorig must be going out of business because the cooler I paid under around $30 is now well over $100. Another great option would be the budget king H212 Evo and step-ups include Noctua's offering or the Scythe Mugen, BeQuiet's, all are great budget coolers.

Haha, looked it up: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Only a little bit of overkill!

"I priced everything out online and this is what it's worth" suuurrreee....

• 4TB Hard Drive - $120
  
  
• i7 2600K - $175
  
  
• 16GB RAM - $50
  
  
• 7850 - $75 I actually bought a 7870 on eBay a few months ago for $57 but whatever
  
  
• Motherboard, can't find one but equivalent decent mobos would be like $150
  
  
• PSU - $75 and probably better than the one this thing comes with
  
  
• CPU Cooler - $20
  
  
• Case - $70
  
  
• Enough LEDs to melt this computer - $20
  
  I'd offer $750 for everything, tops.

These are cheap and one of the best ones on the market

Regular NH-L9i is $10 less and has that genuine Noctua look of quality.

This case is really great for a Ryzen 2200G or 2400G build. It was completely out of stock at every retailer in the US but Microcenter has it in stock now with a discount. If you do pick it up in store don't forget to use the $5 off $30 discount: https://www.retailmenot.com/view/microcenter.com

If you do decide to go with this case I recommend the Noctua NH-L9i, it's a really great low profile cooler that fits nicely in this case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VCAJ7W/

Edit: this case is $99.00 on Amazon and I believe it was that price on Newegg before it sold out. So this is a pretty solid sale.
Link to Amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/InWin-Chopin-Mini-ITX-Stickers-Aluminum/dp/B01N091225

Just my opinion, I am no expert, but these seem like the best choices as they are popular, and consideration how much work it would take to design them.
Also check the most popular on Amazon, Newegg and PC part picker.

CPUs from one socket look almost the same right?
So a LGA 1151 and AM3+ CPUs.

For RAM, classic PCB with black chips, maybe another one with a very simple heatspreader in different colors, as it would take quite a lot of work to create realistic heatspreaders for little benefit IMO.

Any HDD, they all look similar.

For SSDs, Samsung are the most popular and very simple to do.

Three most popular CPU coolers prolly are CRYORIG H7, Hyper 212 EVO, and Corsair H100i, maybe with addition of a single fan AIO like Corsair H55.

GPUs are tougher:

• definitely MSI twin frozr, they use them for most cards
  
• ASUS new strix
  
• Gigabyte G1 Gaming as for 1070 and 1080 and Windforce for smaller cards
  
• EVGA hates you, it seems like they have a different design for every card, but the most popular for enthusiasts could be ACX 3.0 used with 1070 and 1080
  
  Motherboards and cases: the hardest parts to pick, almost every one part is completely different from the other.
  Just go by the most popular.
  
  Anything I forgot?

I wouldn't call that a deal; I'd call that a scam. Notice that the seller is "Just Launched", is asking $20 less than the competition, and most importantly has no buyer feedback.

Also available on Amazon for the same price with free shipping.

I know this is not a fair comparison, considering the name that precedes them, but these vs Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM? I don't particularly care about RGB, but they cost about 3 bucks extra each.

As far as bang for your buck, I think the Hyper 212+ is a better buy. It's about two-thirds of the price of the Hyper 212 Evo and you'll only see a minimal benefit with the Evo (which is from the better fan, if I recall correctly).

You really can't go wrong with either cooler but if you're already over budget or need to save a few dollars somewhere, I'd say the 212+ is a better buy - especially if you're only doing some conservative overclocking.

I’ll look into it, thanks.

Edit: looks like the Scythe Mugen 5 rev b is a great cooler. On amazon for $48.

Mugen 5 Rev. B CPU Cooler PWM Fan AMD AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YhZ3BbKAV9ZM0

I’ve been through a bunch of reviews and can’t decide which is better so I’m going to try one of each. Reviews for both are solid. No doubt both offer solid cooling and some of the quietest fans out there.

Hey! It looks like you've got a pretty solid build started here! I just want to point out a few things to make your life just a little bit easier.

1. The motherboard you have will NOT work with the CPU that you've chosen. You picked a Z170A board, which works with the 6th and 7th generation (if BIOS is flashed) of Intel CPU's, and you're buying an 8th generation. So I would recommend this board or this one instead. Either will work, it just depends on how much money you want to spend.
   
2. Don't buy the power supply you've picked. It puts out way more wattage than you'll use, so I would recommend saving some money and maybe picking up this one. As a bonus it has an RGB fan, so that's kinda cool. It's also fully modular, meaning that you only need to plug the cables into the PSU that you need instead of having extras to hide in your case.
   
3. I'd also save some money on your RAM. This set is cheaper, faster, and only requires that you use two of your RAM slots instead of all four. More upgradeability in the future!
   
4. Think about if you really need 2TB of storage right now. The 1TB SSD you have picked out is going to be great, and if you're new to PC gaming it's going to have plenty of space for awhile. You can always pick up a new HDD (like the Seagate one you have in your cart) later down the road.
   
5. With the money that you've saved, I think that you could upgrade your graphics card from your 1060 (a GREAT option, don't get me wrong) to a 1070 like this one. (EVGA is a great company in my opinion, and I love their graphics cards.) It's a great contender for both 1440p and 1080p gaming!
   
6. Others have said to get a cheaper air cooler instead of opting for the water cooler that you've picked. If you decide to go that route (completely fine) I would maybe go with something like this if you want something extra beefy to keep your CPU cool, or this less beefy one. Either way, 8th generation CPUs run hot, so the water cooler you have would work great.
   
   So there ya go! I hope that you enjoy your new build, it's going to be amazing! If you PM me I'll add you on Steam and we can play some games together when your build is all set!

There are a few things that need to be considered when you are experiencing performance issues. The first thing I would do is make sure it isnt just CS:GO. Play another game and see if you experience any performance issues.

If you do not, I would recommend verifying integrity of game files, then restarting your PC and seeing if that does anything.

If you do experience performance issues outside of CS as well, there is a multitude of problems you could be experiencing. Since the 7700k and the 1080 both run hot, you need to make sure you are cooling them properly. If you are running the stock Intel cooler, I wouldn't be surprised if you were thermal throttling your CPU.

Here are 2 great cooling solutions in the case you need to replace the stock Intel cooler:

• AIO (Water Cooling)
  
  
• Heat Sink (Air Cooling)
  
  Just be sure to get a cooler that your motherboard supports (in your case, one that supports Z270)
  
  Other things I can suggest:
  
  
• Reinstalling the game
  
• Cleaning out your case
  
• De-fragmenting hard drive (Not SSD)
  
• Checking for damaged/dead hardware
  
  If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to assist you.
  

$65 for a D15 ( like new = new cooler with damaged packing) is a great deal

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?condition=used&s=warehouse-deals&keywords=noctua&qid=1574681122&sr=8-3-catcorr&m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ

Those first three games are likely CPU limited while Rainbow Six is probably GPU limited. My immediate thought is overheating. Use a temperature monitoring software to check the temperature on your CPU. If it's high, consider cleaning out your CPU fan or replacing the thermal paste on your fan.

If you don't have one, I'd suggest getting an after-market CPU cooler. The Cooler Master 212 is what I use and I've always been extremely satisfied with the results. With the 4590 you won't have much room to overclock, but it will guarantee you aren't running into any thermal problems.

EDIT2: Só como referencia: iMac i7 comprado pelo governo, segue o baile comparando com o PC montado e este meu comentario US$1.200,00 de diferença.




O preço do iMac é exagerado até la fora: iMac top de linha i5

Quem entende de computadores sabe que você monta um PC MELHOR por um preço bem menor: Top de linha no MINIMO 5x mais forte, e o mesmo preço. Na verdade, um exagero, porque montei com as melhores peças no mercado atualmente. Poderia até ter poupado mais e aproveitado o quad-channel do ram na placa mãe, que seria melhor e mais barato, só quis ser overkill.

Os produtos Apple são overpriced em QUALQUER mercado, só ver a linha de ultrabooks deles por 2k dolares e os concorrentes pelo mesmo valor (Razer Blade).

EDIT: link talvez tenha problemas, então eis os itens:

• CPU
  
  
• Placa
  
  
• GPU
  
  
• RAM
  
  
• PSU
  
  
• Cooler
  
  
• Case
  
  
• Monitor 4k
  
  
• SSD
  
  
• HDD
  
  Somando US$2.100,30

This seems like the perfect excuse to upgrade to a Hyper 212.

The scythe mugen 5 https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77 has about the same performance as the noctua d15 and drp4 (~$90) while being under $50. It's probably one of the better value coolers out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543468038&sr=8-3&keywords=noctua

One of the best air coolers out there! Didn't wanna deal with water cooling issues.

It's actually one of the ugliest coolers stock LOL, but you can pimp it out with their Chromax line:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-HC3-chromax-Black-swap-heatsink-NH-D15S/dp/B076569Y8X/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543468125&sr=8-3&keywords=chromax

​

​

Here's what I'd do:

Flash the BIOS on your current mobo so it supports Kaby Lake chips (its very easy to do).

Buy this, sell the two game codes, you should be able to get $50 all day easily. Sell your 6500 on ebay, they get around $130, sell the mobo that comes with this bundle, looks like those get $70-80 on ebay.

130+70+50 (conservative estimates, that's pretty much low end for everything) = $250 in sales. Tada, you just upgrade from 6500 to 7700k for $40.

You'll need to get a cooler, since 7700k's don't come with a stock one, but since you don't plan on OC'ing, this should be more than enough, could probably even do a light OC if you ever end up wanting to.

never overclock on the shitty intel cooler

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1495367377&sr=1-1&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo

$25

http://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Hyper-120mm-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451446229&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo

128.99$ regular price for a 212 EVO eh Amazon? Wow I'm saving 86$ what a steal! How is this allowed....

It's one cooler...
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Following is my configuration built 2 years back.

CPU: Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor

Motherboard: Asus Z97-PRO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard

Memory: Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory

Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive

Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB DirectCU II Video Card

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler

Power Supply: Cooler Master VSM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply

Case: Cooler Master Storm Enforcer SGC-1000-KWN1

Dell S2240L 21.5 inch LED Backlit LCD Monitor x 2(Got these two for a steal at the Flipkart Big Billion Day Sale)

Cooler Master Keybord & Mouse Devastator Combo SGB-3010-KKMF1-US

Right now playing SOMA.

Yes, and it's $10 cheaper.

(yes, I get the joke. But Noctua brown is sexier than Noctua black, and the brown is a better deal anyway. Literally the only difference between the two is this one looks better.)

Have you looked at the Noctua NH-L9a AM4? It's only 37mm tall, so you could actually swap its bundled slim fan with a full-sized one and still have some vertical space. Noctua claims that this cooler is fine for a 2600, as long as you don't try to overclock.

yea see if you can fit 80mm fans to the drilled sides like /u/relikborg suggested. Also you may want to see if you can replace your stock cpu cooler with some other low profile cooler like this
or this if they fit

I highly recommend both the $56 Macho X2 and the $47 Scythe Fuma air coolers.

They are both roughly half the price of the popular $90 Noctua NH-D15 and perform almost just as well. These coolers are pretty powerful and even go toe-to-toe with some high-end liquid coolers. They are also both relatively quiet coolers too; bang for the buck is very high for these two products.

Just make sure they actually fit your PC case.

Spend a bit extra and get a Noctua heatsink/fan. This is seriously good.

This, however, beats out even AIO water cooling solutions.

Motherboards: MSI Enthusiastic Gaming Intel Z270 DDR4 VR Ready HDMI USB 3 ATX Motherboard x2

Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 3000MHz C15 Desktop Memory Kit - White x2

Processors: Intel 7th Gen Intel Core Desktop Processor i7-7700K x2

3 of the Monitors (1 is a Benq): ViewSonic VX2452MH 24" 1080p Gaming Monitor HDMI, DVI, VGA

GPUs: GIGABYTE GeForce GTX 1060 DirectX 12 GV-N1060WF2OC-6GD 6GB 192-Bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 ATX Video Card x2

Coolers: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) x2

Speakers: Logitech Z313 Speaker System x2

Cases: Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 High Airflow ATX Cube Case - Black (and 1 white)

Keyboards: SteelSeries Apex 300 Gaming Keyboard, White LED Backlit and CORSAIR K55 RGB Gaming Keyboard

Mouse: Logitech G600 MMO Gaming Mouse (and don't ask what my cheap ass mouse is, but I love it)

Cat: Pain In The Ass Model

​

Amazon has had this one up for a few days.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486900087&sr=8-1&keywords=NH-D15+SE-AM4

Also two options from Scythe: the Mugen 5b - $48 and the Ninja 4 - $40. They perform on par with the True Spirit 140, D15, and DRP4, and are relatively inexpensive.

If you are gaming at 1080p AND want to be relevant for future games, maybe it would make more sense to get something like a gtx 970/r9 390 for now while waiting to see what next gen cards look like this fall. Could save 300+ dollars and put it towards a monster cooler instead. GPUs are the flavor of the year; a good cooler can be timeless.

NH-D15, is what I'm rolling with in my rig

Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1ZnezbTYB7BPR

Yay! You're amazing!

I couldn't find any other part number from the official site. This is what I got from Amazon.




Shipping Weight: 1.8 Kg

Item model number: NH-D15 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01NC06ZYT

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/

(For the other AM4 ones from Noctua if you want to add them.)

Manufacturer reference: NH-U12S SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N9X2YYN

Item model number: NH-L9x65 SE-AM4

ASIN: B01N27QWFA

Item model number: NM-AM4-UXS

ASIN: B01N5UOPOB

Item model number: NM-AM4

ASIN: B01MTEFT52

Hope that helps!

Noctua AM4 low profile cooler for $5 more with Prime Shipping

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9a-Premium-Low-profile-Cooler/dp/B075SG1T3X/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1550538657&sr=8-16&keywords=noctua+cooler

I'd either add an extra fan to the rear, or move one of the front fans to the rear. It's a weird config they went with on that, but I guess the point was to show off the mesh front.

>What low budget cooler would you recommend?

The Wraith Prism that it ships with is probably fine unless you're planning to overclock, in which case I wouldn't go for a "budget cooler". Something like the Noctua NH-U12S would be a good choice.

These are the price performance Kings in my opinion. Quiet but still has great pressure, and Noctua quality for $13.90 a piece.

Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM

• Static Pressure: 2,83 mm H₂O
  
• Airflow: 120,2 m³/h
  
• RPM Range: 450-1,700

These are what I bought, I've also heard this is a great deal on good fans if you like RGB.

I would probably not recommend getting more of the base fans, they don't seem to have nearly as much flow as the Noctua fans I'm using now.

Edit: I looked up the Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM) for the fans, base fans have 52.3 CFM, RGB fans are 54.4 CFM, and the noctua is 71 CFM. So the base and RGB fans are only getting around 73% of the airflow as the noctuas. If you want to find some with a different look, just check the CFM to see how effective they will be.

Even cheaper if you buy the grey ones without the rubber inserts. All the performance of Noctua without the big price tag.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

I have almost this exact build and I've been using Cooler Master Hyper 212 Black Edition its 40$ bucks on amazon. Decent cooler beats the stock cooler the 3600 came with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H25DYM3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Edit: there are a few versions of this cooler rgb and what not. It comes with an extra set of fan clips so you can do a push pull configuration you can add your own fans if you already have extras.

There are a couple ways to improve performance, but I think the problem is that it's so expensive to produce, due to the tight tolerances required, that it's really more of a novelty than a competitive product.

Every other cooler in the video is cheaper than the Engine 27

Engine 27

Noctua

Cryorig

Phanteks

Silverstone AR06

 

To improve performance they could;

1. Integrate a vapor chamber into the base of the cooler
   
   
2. Machine a denser fin array onto the spinning fansink
   
   
3. Make the whole cooler, fansink and outer heatsink, taller. Another 10mm wouldn't hurt compatibility with most applications.
   
   All of these modifications are going to increase the price, and may or may not bring it into competitiveness with these less expensive coolers.

Ever heard of saving your money? $40 is quite a bit and adds up quickly if it's a recurring amount.

For $40 though, it's more of being able to upgrade parts that you might get. an i5-7500 vs an i5-7600k is a $40 difference.

Upgrading from a regular cpu fan to watercooling is <$40.

Although mining has ruined the prices, upgrading from a gtx 1050 to a 1050ti is <$40

8GB of ram is just over $40.

There's 611 Reviews here you can look at.

Or if you've got no life... there's 3,227 reviews here you can peruse at your leisure.

Good work, your cable management is excellent!

I have a couple of recommendations for you build:

I'd recommend buying a new CPU cooler when you can. The Intel ones are good, but there are so many better ones on the market.

Try this one - I used it in my build for like 3 years. Keeps temps down and fans quiet.

Another thing you may consider is an SSD. You'd be surprised by how cheap they are right now. Here is a 480Gb SSD for only $118 USD.

And as /u/nolo_me said, definitely flip that PSU if it's not too much trouble. Better performance, better sound, better temps.

Without question the Cooler Master Hyper 212+. You can get it for 30$, and there's simply nothing that can compete with it in value.

This will help a bit

Also, make sure to use Intel Burn Test, Aida64, Prime95. I use all of these while I was OC'ing, you should stress test with each program for around 1-2 hours and do around a hundred runs of IBT. Do not run these programs at the same time! Make sure you have a good cooler! I'd recommend:

Air cooler - CM Hyper 212 Evo I have this one, amazing bang for your buck.

Noctua NH-D15

AIO Water coolers - NZXT Kraken X61

Corsair H100i

I'd recommend getting a temperature app like Real temp, but it has been known to be a bit wrong (check your motherboard for temps and the idle temperature will be different) As a safety precaution I always made sure my CPU's temp stayed under 80°C (give myself a good 10°C) Anyway, try and run your chip on a 1.25V at 46X multiplier and if it boots to windows you've got a average chip, if it keeps BSODing drop the multiplier/raise the voltage or do both, then just fine tune it.

It took me a good 7 hours to do my first OC (i5 4670K 4.5GHz @ 1.232V) it's not been optimised yet, anyway good luck and have fun overclocking!

You can get a much better deal than that getting the parts yourself.

• 8 GB G.Skill Ripjaws = $44
  
• Cooler Master 912 Case = $50 microcenter
  
• XFX 750w Black Edition = $115 amazon ($120 - 40 MIR @ microcenter if you can find it)
  
• Cooler Master 212+ CPU cooler = $20
  
• Seagate Momentus XT 500GB SSD Hybrid - $90
  
• EVGA 560 ti = $215
  
• i5 2500k = 179.99 @ Microcenter
  
• ASRock P67 Ext 4 Gen 3 = 165-50 instant combo w/ 2500k = $115
  
  Total = $815 bux (before tax for in store items)
  
  edit: i put that list together real quick - you could probably find better deals for the video card if you look around. That's the exact same build I got except I went with the 560 ti 448. You dont need i7 either the 2500k = 2600k minus HT. 2500k is pretty much all the power you need for a kick ass machine.

>I guess my question is, how beefy should I make this pc? Do I need a heavy graphics card or a stronger single core processor? Do I need Linux or can I achieve this in Windows?

This will depend on what you want, and how far you want to go. My emulation and gaming rig is:

• Intel Core i5 4690k
  
• Gigabyte GTX 970 Mini OC
  
• 8GB DDR3 1600 RAM
  
• couple SSDs
  
• Windows 8.1
  
  It's solid for the purpose, and I've got it in a mini-ITX case(Thermaltake Core V1) and replaced my stock cooler with an Arctic Freezer 7 Pro and threw in two Noctua 80mm fans on PWM. Sounds like overkill, and it probably is, but I wanted a powerful, but cool and quiet build I could treat like a TV console. Plus, keeping the case temps low also reduces the overall heat in my den where I play. Small rooms can heat up quickly.
  
  It boots up faster than my TV turns on, plays everything I throw at it, and the CPU never gets higher than 62c (and it takes Prime95 to do that, it rarely goes above 59c when gaming, ~30-33c when idle). It also emulates PS2 games at 6x-8x interal resolution with FXAA and shaders, which was important to me because I'm gaming on a 4k TV.
  
  Technically speaking you could get away with much lower specs. But I would recommend at minimum the i5 4690k CPU, and a decent GPU. If you're gaming at 1080p even a low end video card will do for PS2 and Gamecube emulation, not sure about Wii. But the better your card the more you can upscale the games internally on the renderer.

Noctua D14 - $60
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler-NH-D14/dp/B002VKVZ1A/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1412663978&sr=1-3&keywords=d14+noctua

Successfully used the promo on a 'like new' Noctua NH-D14 cpu cooler for $51 before taxes.

IMO water cooling is pointless for 99% of people and people only do it because saying you've got a "water cooled" PC sounds sexy.

The water isn't doing anything to cool the system. All it does is move the heat from the source (the CPU/GPU) to a radiator. The radiator is what actually exchanges the heat with the outside environment. IMO, why bother dealing with pumps and hoses and all the added weight that comes from filling the PC with water, when you can just slap a monster air cooler right on top of the CPU.

Something like this is going to have just as much surface area to exchange heat as a 280mm radiator will, without needing a pump and tons of coolant in a reservoir. In a normal mid tower case the space about the CPU socket is just going to be dead air anyways, might as well put your heatsink/radiator there instead of having to mount it to a fan bracket.

Don't waste your time with an unproved fan.....Noctua NF-P12 redux-1700 PWM it's not brown like other noctua fans... 95% of the performance for 1/2 the price

link
& review

Alright, this is just for confirmation but this is the fan that was on my CPU. I'm thinking about getting [this](Cooler Master Hyper 212 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes, Unique Blade Design and Red LEDs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rK5EzbZ6Z7FKN) fan as a replacement. I'm probably going to get a new case after I upgrade my GPU to the 1050TI. Would this work on top of my CPU?

Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4 Premium-Grade 140mm Dual Tower CPU Cooler for AMD AM4, apparently

Might have difficulty getting your asking considering new on Amazon is $39.90.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9a-Premium-Low-profile-Cooler/dp/B075SG1T3X/ref=pd_cp_147_2?pd_rd_w=gGiIi&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=SXXQK8RG3W1XWV5KJXBP&pd_rd_r=ccc8cb21-50ed-4f51-a2e5-a2cef9f80b27&pd_rd_wg=NtuFJ&pd_rd_i=B075SG1T3X&psc=1&refRID=SXXQK8RG3W1XWV5KJXBP

I currently have this. Think it should suffice?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BSKY1M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I highly recommend the bequiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 Silentwings if you're looking for the higher end range and large size (on sale): https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/5fjkve/cooler_be_quiet_dark_rock_pro_3_silentwings_250w/?st=iw7bv16t&sh=ea5e0770

My 2nd choice in the ~$60 range is the Noctuna NH-U12S

My budget choice is the Be Quiet Pure Rock , but I haven't seen it under $30 in a while on the normal sites. Same price as the Cryorig H7 right now. I prefer the Pure Rock over the Cryorig, but you can't go wrong with either performance wise.

There are loads of good CPU cooler reviews/installations on youtube. Like HiTechLegion : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtSccaobSCI

I do not recommend the 212 EVO.

Noctua NF-A14 PWM, 4-Pin Premium Quiet Cooling Fan (140mm, Brown) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GYsADbKCQ4AZB

I'll just preface this by saying I spent a lot of time browsing the Octane Render forums when I was trying to figure out my build. I don't have links to any threads but there are plenty there discussing system requirements for the renderer.

These are just some of the glaring mistakes. I would recommend you spend way more time researching parts as it is clear that you have spent very little time doing so. It took me around a week of extensive researching to put my build together. Expect to spend the same time doing so.

Get a Noctua cooler. Look at the Amazon review breakdown of this one. 92% 5-star reviews our of 409 reviews. I'm not sure if this one will fit for you though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L7UZMAK/

You're wasting money on that memory. Your motherboard only supports up to 3200 MHz memory. Your CPU only supports up to 2133 MHz.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99DELUXE/specifications/

http://ark.intel.com/products/82931/Intel-Core-i7-5930K-Processor-15M-Cache-up-to-3_70-GHz

Get this memory instead.

http://gskill.com/en/finder?cat=31&series=0&prop_3=2133MHz&prop_4=0&prop_1=0&prop_14=DDR4&prop_2=64GB+%288GBx8%29

ASUS has a new version of your motherboard anyway. I wouldn't buy the old one.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99-DELUXE-II/specifications/

Do you need the Deluxe? Look at the non-Deluxe version below.

https://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/X99-A-II/specifications/

If you're using Octane you could use up to 4 video cards with a different motherboard.

https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/X99E_WS/

Although, if you went that route you would have to do liquid cooling and it would probably only fit in the biggest CaseLabs case. A system like that would run you over $10,000. Such a system would only be necessary if you were working and rendering by yourself on a single system. If that is not the case, 2 cards will suit you just fine.

Western Drives are more reliable. Read the Amazon reviews of this one.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011LVAVEQ/

The choice of power supply is great.

If I was going to do an air cooled system, I would go with this case. I'm not sure if you need it though.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-HAF-Computer-RC-942-KKN1/dp/B003S68Q0Y

EDIT:

With all that money you're saving on memory you could get a better CPU.

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/NXyxFT/intel-cpu-bx80671i76900k

This CPU supports up to 2400 MHz memory, meaning you could also upgrade your memory.

http://pcpartpicker.com/product/YK8H99/gskill-memory-f42400c15q264grk

I'm not sure about the case or how you're cooling the GPUs. I know from researching on the Octane forums that anything above 2 cards needs to be water cooled otherwise your cards will overheat and you will lose performance. Look into the founders edition because of its blower-style cooler.

EDIT:

I forgot to mention that when I was looking into this for myself I was trying to build a system for animation. If you're only using Octane for stills 2 cards will be great.

In op's defense here are some prices I found online.

Processor ($339.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819117826&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Processors+-+Desktops-_-N82E16819117826&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNntpJGeKcrIqLK_yPxSRmiBoa8Lvce7tKruCKMuIBUeanOlFagQmK0aApfGEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Graphics Card ($550.83):
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-08G-P4-6286-KR/dp/B01GAI64GO

RAM ($129.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231888&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Memory+%28Desktop+Memory%29-_-N82E16820231888&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNluiesSkg9CxxBfxBDmz1HWxtmFUiMwnkaY7NVmjP6ZhSJRDLMI8AcaAot_EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds (EDIT: made a mistake with ram. Previous was DDR3)

PSU ($56.99):
https://www.amazon.com/Apevia-ATX-JP800W-Certified-Supports-Crossfire/dp/B01IE09DXM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1539020247&sr=8-13&keywords=800+watt+power+supply

CPU Cooler ($29.99):
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

SSD ($55.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147676&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Solid+State+Disk-_-N82E16820147676&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNkIQk5_jTrXnqxvt_MIapC1vkX1Gi07g7kvIAkyp_NlJE7IL1MrCvMaAuQEEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

HDD ($45.99):
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822236339&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-Hard+Drives-_-N82E16822236339&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgOzdBRDlARIsAJ6_HNkf9uXrvZly4mlfMtSPCSOJVbsDW1TXGscIqEVyzNOvp1Viya-ITYAaAmnyEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

339.99+550.83+129.99+56.99+29.99+55.99+45.99=$1209.77 (EDIT:Made a mistake with calculation and also want to note these all are found through quick searches and most don't look like top quality products. What op has is probably priced a bit more than all these parts. Also click on the frickin pc part picker on the post.) without case, monitor, and motherboard included. It is quite a steal in my opinion. By the way op are you wiling to sell just your CPU cooler to me? What would you price it at?

Your cooler is just a fan, get the CM Hyper 212 EVO. Your motherboard is incompatible with the processor, get the MSI H81M-P33. Your harddrive is a slow spinny spinny, get the WD Caviar Blue. Your graphics card/cpu is unbalanced, either downgrade the processor to the Intel i3-4160, or upgrade the graphics card to a GTX 960 or R9 380.

Edit: No aftermarket cooler with the i3-4160.

What are you going to do with your PC? If it's just gaming then an i7 is a bit overkill. I'd recommend the FX 8350 with this build and if you want to overclock, I'd recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler. And you're right, it would be a great gift!

I know that feel bro, I had a AMD Phenom II x4 965BE that also ran at 125W. After upgrading to a Hyper 212 sound and noise were no longer an issue, (just size was, and I went without my stock case side panel the whole summer, lel)

Here is a $20 cpu cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103064&nm_mc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC&cm_mmc=KNC-GoogleAdwords-PC-_-pla-_-CPU+Fans+%26+Heatsinks-_-N82E16835103064&gclid=CjwKEAiAg_CnBRDc1N_wuoCiwyESJABpBuMXlsgcfmGTOTavNvaSEJXZrNDQStKLkb4A_PBBXCHx-BoC-T_w_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
And a comparison to the stock cooler on the fx 8350:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MH9Oj_g6xYU

Or if you have $35 you can get the Hyper 212:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425882089&sr=8-1&keywords=212+evo , its better performance and almost silent for me (its been with my phenom and now its with my intel)

Use eBay.

• Intel i5 3570K Processor - $75
  
• Hyper 212 EVO Cooler - $30
  
• Asus P8H61-M LE Motherboard - $41
  
• Kingston 8GB DDR3 RAM - $41
  
• EVGA GTX 970 - $195 (or less with an offer)
  
• EVGA 500BQ Power Supply - $45
  
• 1TB Seagate Barracuda - $45
  
• Any case you'd like - $40
  
  Total: $512 or possibly less if you make some offers -- for a very capable system.

How low do you need to go? This low?

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-Low-Profile-Cooler-Retail-Cooling/dp/B009VCAJ7W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542401111&sr=8-1&keywords=Noctua+NH-L9i


Only 4 left in stock and its sold by AmberCnE

I see lots of downvotes to this guy who's obviously not as experienced as you guys. What's the purpose of this subreddit again? I thought it was for newer builders to ask questions and experienced builders to help.

OP, you've probably gathered by now that your stock i5 cooler isn't going to good enough. For how much I like to rag on Intel and performance per watt (essentially, performance compared to heat output) the 8700K isn't terrible. The Windale 6 is roughly $45 and perfectly competent with cooling the 8700K. If you wanted a cheaper solution the Cooler Master Hyper 212 is also a fairly solid choice. Personally I'd recommend the Windale 6 over the Hyper 212 but if, for some reason, the $15 difference is necessary the Hyper 212 would be competent. You wouldn't be able to squeeze as much performance out of the 8700K with the Hyper 212 as you could with the Windale 6 but it would get the job done.

Yes I did, used 99% alcohol cleaned the area. I'm chalking this cooler up to garbage. Got H60 coming in next-day. So it will take the rest of this weekend off powered down. I will be praying to PCMR gods to forgive my trespasses buying that miserable CPU cooler and allowing it to unravel itself.

Stand by.

This build looks good. I built myself a similar rig last year, and it performs well. I basically agree with everything /u/MrTesla said, mutatis mutandis.

• If you want to perform GPU computing just make sure this GPU is CUDA-enabled.
  
  
• I'd get a 1 TB solid state; they are only ~$250 if you went with Crucial instead of Samsung.
  
  
• I have that same CPU cooler. It looks awesome in pictures, when it's by itself, but in retrospect I wish I would have went with something much smaller and simpler. The problem is that it's a brick, and will stick out directly normal from your CPU, and takes up a ton of space. Let me take a picture of mine... here ya go. It makes cable management and everything else happening around your mobo more difficult. If you go with something like this Corsair Hydro, you get the same copper plate with liquid cooling, but move the fan element out of center of the tower, to a location where it should be. I'd highly consider this since you are only going with a mid, and not full tower.
  
  
• I like the modular PSU, but I'd almost want to beef that up a little, to like 800W.
  
  
• CPU looks good. For $50 more you get a decent benchmark bump for the 3.6 i7-6850K. Then again, you might have already said that, a few times.
  
  Overall though, pretty solid build. MATLAB is just an excuse to build this right? No shame in that. When it comes time to actually use MATLAB for analyses I would highly recommend converting whatever you can to MEX files. Like MrTesla mentioned, MATLAB is not the fastest tool available, and may not be the right tool if you're concerned about how long it will take to process your data. Optimizing the lang/software/code used to process your data will result in speed-ups orders of magnitude greater than simply running the same code on a more powerful machine. I experienced this first-hand; I was simulating particle diffusion on ruffled membranes in matlab using standard functions. To run one simulation (~20k steps for 1k particles) it would take about 10 minutes. I went out and build a new rig, and it went down to ~6 min. I converted some of my functions to MEX/C and it dropped to about 45 seconds.

Computer hardware prices will make you laugh, especially if you are looking at premium international brands.

I wanted to buy a CPU cooler (Noctua D15) and it still is listed for 13,899 to 18,155 on Amazon IN. On NewEgg India it's listed for 5,499 INR, plus either 450 for shipping by Noctua Austria or 2,000 for shipping by NewEgg International. If imported from Amazon.com it will cost around 7k including everything.

So Amazon India should actually be more vigilant in finding and bidding goodbye to these sellers.

You are right but there are 3 versions for H115i: RGB (amazon link here), Pro RGB (this post), and Platinum. I was refering to the first two while you are talking about the last two.

Yeah, you'd want a better cooler for overclocking the 9700K (which I assume you're doing since you're getting a fairly expensive motherboard and PSU).

Something in the $50 range would be like a Thermalright Macho Rev. B or, if you really hate noise, the Scythe Mugen 5.

Although the 9700K can benefit from even more.

I wouldn't recommend the 860 EVO, as you could get something much better for the same price, the adata xpg sx8200 pro, which competes with the 970 evo.

FYI, that motherboard is currently available on Amazon right now for $180. Hasn't updated on PCPP yet.

It's a very nice cooler. You might look into the NH-U12S SE-AM4 for a cheaper option from Noctua. It's a very similar design. Comes with only 1 fan, but includes the mounting hardware and anti-vibration pads for a 2nd fan in the box. I own one of those as well that's in another system, and it's a virtually silent cooler as well.

Also, the Mugen Scythe is an awesome choice as well. https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

This will be a very quiet and temps will be lower too. And it's half the price of even a cheap water solution.

I got you! https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-Motherboard-Supported-Heatpipes/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537935241&sr=8-1&keywords=deepcool+gammaxx+gt

It kinda depends, there are $40 cpu coolers that will get the job done, and $90 coolers that will get the job done with flying colors.

If you want a more reasonably priced cooler that will still perform excellent, I'd recommend the Windale 6 for $47. If you want to go all out, the Dark Rock Pro 4 for $90. This review compares the two coolers in various tests; As you can see obviously the Dark Rock performs better, but both actually have very similar performances, while the Windale costs $40 less.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $178.88
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 76.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $22.99
Motherboard | Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 ATX AM3+ Motherboard | $68.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair XMS3 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $37.00
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $69.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 7850 2GB Video Card | $163.98 @ Newegg
Case | Rosewill REDBONE ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Cooler Master GX 450W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply | $29.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Rosewill RK-201 Wired Standard Keyboard | $5.99 @ Amazon
Other| 3Lue Red Mouse| $10.00
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | $607.80
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-18 04:44 EDT-0400 |

Use Amazon Warehouse deals on the 8350 and the RAM.

8350 Warehouse Deal

XMS3 Warehouse Deal

3lue Mouse

Used 212+

Really, the rest of this build seems pretty self-explanatory. It's an 8350, man!

Also, this is a very nice motherboard. I have the 990FX version of it, and it has given me no problems whatsoever.

Are you gonna liquid cool? I ask because that case is generally for liquid cooling. The airflow of that case it not that great. Here's another option, a lot better suited for air cooling: HAF X.

For CPU cooler, here's a pretty good one, the Hyper 212 Plus. It's not much more than the one you listed and it's regularly considered one of the best air coolers, especially for the price. If you can, try to pick up a 2nd 120 mm fan and do push/pull with it.

Also if you are doing serious heavy duty video editing, I'm always a proponent of getting as much RAM as you can. May want to think about getting the 16 gb kit.

Besides that it looks pretty good. Some might say it'd be better (and cheaper) to get 2 Samsung F3 1 tb drives and run it in RAID. Also there's people out there who might have some issue with the 590 card (either say it's overkill, or better to get two 580s) but I don't have a particularly strong stance on either position so I'll leave that to them.

Just a sidenote though, if you can afford to add it to your system, I'd highly recommend getting a SSD as a boot drive/program drive. It was the most noticeable change I ever got from a single component upgrade. I'd recommend at least a 128 gb if you're gonna put all your programs + windows on it. You could probably get away with 64 gb but you'd always have to be super frugal about space. My personal recommendation is the Crucial M4. Just make sure you update the firmware to revision 9 before you start installing anything on it (google it, it's super easy to do).

EDIT: Also was looking at your motherboard. From everything I could see, this Gigabyte board seems to be pretty much the same features wise and cheaper to boot.

Cooler Master Hyper 212+

I currently have a Phenom II x4 965 C2 stepping (the hottest running one) with a mild overclock to 3.6 GHz. Temps on idle are around 30 C in my terribly cooled room, and never go above 48 C on load. I also bought Arctic Silver Ceramique to go along with it, but the thermal paste that comes with the cooler should be fine. It's also very quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

I personally went for the black theme with the CM Hyper 212 Black Edition.

You won't regret for the price point.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

i'd swap out the cooler for something a bit bigger. like this https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1511120598&sr=1-4&keywords=cpu+cooler&dpID=518BEXKEiiL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Oh my god please don't do a prebuilt from here and not likes Dell prebuilt like someone built it here. You can learn so much but buying the parts, and researching it can be a bonding experience with your son!
Edit: SORRY IN ADVANCE FOR A WALL OF TEXT!
anyway lets get this build started!
Idk what you want but for a case that looks super sexy the NZXT S340 would be a good start, cheap and nice.
CASE:NZXT S340 Mid Tower Case CA-S340MB-GR Matte Black/Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T4BWUUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wR12xbKDZPNE8
Note: $74 Jet.com has it cheaper. (GET THE BLUE AS I MADE IT A BLUE BUILD)
CPU:Intel Core i7-2600 Quad-Core Processor 3.4 GHz 8 MB Cache LGA 1155 - BX80623I72600 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EBUXSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nT12xb7BECNJC
Note: $164
MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P8H61-M LE/CSM R2.0 LGA 1155 Intel H61 Micro ATX Intel Motherboard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008NA1K0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_b112xb1T6M7HK
Note: $94
RAM: PNY Anarchy 8GB Kit (2x4GB) DDR3 2133MHz (PC3-17000) CL10 Desktop Memory (BLUE) - MD8GK2D3213310AB-Z https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012DT0IB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h412xb3VC5JNW
Note: $45
POWER SUPPLY: EVGA 500 W1, 80+ WHITE 500W, 3 Year Warranty, Power Supply 100-W1-0500-KR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E512xb56068FP
Note: $37
GRAPHICS CARD: ASUS ROG STRIX Radeon RX 460 4GB OC Edition AMD Gaming Graphics Card (STRIX-RX460-O4G-GAMING) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1JVQI4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z712xbFGF2Y2T
Note: $140

TOTAL: $554

Edit 2: As your budget is $600 and I don't know how lenient you are with going over or what, but an Asus RX 470 would be a better graphics card and would increase the total to around $650.

Edit 3:
AFTERMARKET CPU COOLER:Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E-12xbR7ZCHBK
Note: $28

Edit 4: If you want peripherals that's gonna be around $1000 in total for decent crap. I would suggest a 1080p 60hz monitor, a mechanical keyboard ( I use a G. Skillz KM780 RGB and it is fabulous), a nice pair of headphones HyperX cloud 2, and a nice set of speakers Logitech Z506. Also idk what you have but get a wifi adapter as well unless you can hook up to Ethernet which is highly recommended.

Edit 5: If any other questions just PM me glad to help you out more.

Edit 6: shit I forgot drives and OS. I'm too tired to link things anymore so I suggest getting a 128gb Samsung PRO SSD for your OS and main shit then get a Seagate 1TB HDD and you're good to go. Hopefully I covered everything.

Honestly 500-600 wouldn't make a very decent computer for a first rig. You can make one and well I made one just right now but that doesn't take into account peripherals. If you wanted 500-600 WITH peripherals that would have been the hardest budget build of my life. To maintain quality and performance, I'm cringing just thinking of it.

Omg your friend is an ass! I’m sorry but I’m amazed that thing is running! Please refrain from having the computer on until you get a proper cooler for BOTH your processor and graphics card. You are likely damaging the computer every time you run it.

for the processor

I don’t know what to do about the graphics card honestly but you need to cool that as well. You might be better off getting water cooling and installing it. But you also need to cool the GPU as well.

That picture of the acrylic that you don’t what it is, that is a water cooling block for the GPU!

Same with the processor, that’s a water cooling block sitting on it!

Your friend literally took out the water cooling but didn’t replace the fans!

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY/

https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-Ultimate-CR-H5B-Middle-Heatsink/dp/B0154AXB4C/

Apparently someone suggested me this

If you have the extra money get a Noctua. They make different version depending on how much space you have. Very high-quality parts. The mounting system is very nice and they will provide new hardware for new mounting designs when they come out.

Here are a few of their popular ones. They make more so check out their website.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539206864&sr=1-3&keywords=NH-D15

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-D-Type-Premium-Cooling-NH-D15S/dp/B00XUVGLEU/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1539207013&sr=1-3&keywords=NH-D15S

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-NH-U12S-Noctua-CPU-Cooler/dp/B00C9EYVGY

Here you go! They don’t get any better than these.

Noctua 140mm Premium Quiet Quality Fan with AAO Frame Technology (NF-A14 PWM)

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AquUBbAYX9Y2Q

Noctua is pretty much to go to for fans from what ive seen. Basic no LEDs and in my opinion faily ugly but they are huge among people I've spoken.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VKVZ1A/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CP6QLY6/ref=s9_acsd_al_bw_c_x_1_w

Edit: links and such

Specs for those who don't read imgur descriptions..

• i5 3570k (4.3GHz for 3 years, epic CPU)
  
• Gigabyte 980Ti
  
• 32GB Corsair Vengence RAM
  
• ...some MSI motherboard
  
• Asus Xonar STX sound card
  
• Corsaid 750D
  
• Corsair AX860
  
• 120GB Pro OS SSD/500GB EVO games SSD/3TB mass storage HDD
  
• beQuiet Dark Rock Pro 3 cooler
  
• beQuiet 140mm fans all around
  
• 3x Dell U2515H 1440p monitors
  
• Audeze LCD-2 headphones
  
• Gustard H10 headphone amp
  
• 2x Micca MB42x speakers
  
• SMSL SA50 speaker amp
  
• Sescom RCA switch
  
• Magicforce 68-key keyboard (MX Blues)
  
• Logitech G502
  
• PVElectronics Nixie Clock
  

Also this

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-Pro/dp/B00HPX7J4K

When I last checked, the DRP3 was cheaper than the NHD15. At least in the German Amazon.

https://www.amazon.de/quiet-BK019-Dark-Rock-CPU-K%C3%BChler/dp/B00HPX7J4K/
https://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NH-D15/dp/B00L7UZMAK

they can get sorta big https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK019-Silent-wings-Cooler/dp/B00HPX7J4K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482444095&sr=8-2

> Noctua D15

For reference so people know what he's talking about...

This thing is a fucking monster.

Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_skE2Ab2TM63S2

is this version of the noctua dh15 the correct one i should buy for a 8700k? I already bought the cryorig h7 as well but i can cancel and pay a bit more for the noctua. I am probably gonna keep its base clock or overclock just a bit not too much. Should I keep the h7 or pay more for the noctua?

Thanks in advance

Really depends on price range. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 is probably the most popular one out there and comes at a pretty nice price point. If you're looking for something more powerful and don't care about cost check out the Noctua NH-D15 which actually beats out some AIO watercoolers.

I personally avoid watercooling due to the higher chance of failure (pump dying) and possible damage to components (leaks) but some swear by it so that's upto you. (Corsair h100i is the most commonly used I believe)

Don't buy the AM4 special edition, buy the normal NH-D15.

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIAE505Y15601&cm_re=NH-D15-_-35-608-045-_-Product

or here. The description is a bit confusing, but it looks to be the NH-D15.

This small guide is only for CPUs, for GPUs all you have to do is download a program, I'll link that at the bottom

--

First off, you gotta make sure your board is capable of overclocking, chances are you have a Z-series board because you have a k series processor.

K Series processor = overclockable

Z Series motherboard = overclockable

Those are just the basics, I assume you know them.

So to overclock, you're going to need to go into your BIOS, again depends on your motherboard, but while booting up you should press either, F1, F2, F10, Delete or Escape. Once you've figured out the key to get into your BIOS, you can start tweaking.

A really important thing if you're going to overclock is an aftermarket cooler, such as a Hyper 212 (Great value) or a Corsair H115i (Top of line watercooler, pricey) or an equivelent air cooler, like the Noctua NH-D15 (My personal favorite, it's what I hit my 4.9 GHz OC on)

If you already have an after market cooler, that's perfect, and you can continue. But if you don't, I highly recommend picking up a Hyper 212, it's only $25 and will get you a huge amount of performance out of your PC, until then I'd highly reccomend not OCing.

Here are the next steps, I would type them all myself, but that article summarized perfectly, and it's very recent too.

--

As for overclocking your GPU, just download your GPU's Brand-specific program, like MSI Afterburner, EVGA Precision X, etc. They really all work on any GPU, but it's nice to use the one "made" for your specific GPU.

(Note, these only work on Nvidia cards, you'll have to download completely different stuff for AMD)

I hope this helps, don't be afraid of pushing your system, just don't push it too far. Either way, the worst that would happen if you OC "too" hard is you'll BSOD on startup and you'll just have to set your multiplier/voltage lower. It won't affect the longevity of your PC in any way, Enjoy!

If you want a shroud, you could always fabricate one. 3 flat surfaces is a world of difference to painting fans. A million ways you could make a shroud and fasten it into place.

3d print as someone mentioned, cut from an existing piece of plastic or metal, re-shape from sheeting of various materials, etc etc.

One novel thing you could do is use a block of wood or a thicker plastic chunk for the top, drill holes exactly where the heat pipes come up and use those to fasten(making sure to not block any screw access holes so you'd have what looks like one access hole and a divot at the back). Hot glue or epoxy in the pipe-holes, and you don't have to worry about clips or bands or zipties to fasten it to fins(or damaging said fins).

>>Disclaimer: Fan/heatsink shrouds can mess with air-flow in counter-intuitive ways. Sometimes the engineers really do know what they were doing...

>>You can jury rig with card-stock or similar cheap materials and tape to test temps before you decide on a final design or if it's worth doing at all.

>>I've done this with case fans as well as making my own shrouds, and the temp differences can sometimes be improved, or very much decreased, depending on specifics.

____

Those covers are for a completely different size/shape heat-sink.

Cromax:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NA-HC4-chromax-white-heatsink-NH-D15S/dp/B076575LND

For cooler:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Thinner 140mm wide heatsinks (2x)

Your cooler:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U9S-Premium-Quality-Cooler/dp/B00TBHYYFK

A single fat 95mmx95mm heatsink.

At which point, you're modding the fuck out of them, may as well start from scratch in true maker fashion, from the ground up for your specific need.



Painting the top of the cooler would be easy and not affect performance much, if any, slide some sheets of paper in underneath the topmost layer(no need to paint the whole thing, imo) for over-spray, spray lightly, don't drench anything, let dry even if it's not complete, repeat as necessary. Ten "too thin" coats adds up to a better finish than 1 complete coat with runs and globs and dried in wrinkles....If you miss a spot, hit it next time, repeat. Patience is a god-send when painting. (All that provided you've completely removed the cooler, otherwise you'd need a lot more than just a sheet of paper for overspray.)


I wouldn't paint the fan blades. It can be done, but it can be done very badly and mess with balance or even airflow, not to mention if you ever touch them by accident or something, even when not running, say if you're wiping dust off or moving/removing to replace cooling paste, etc, it could flake off because fan blades are a bit flexible usually.

Fans are the one thing I wouldn't mod, unless you're talking about painting the exterior frame only or you seriously know what you're doing.

• 2500k £160
  
  
• Hyper 212+ £27
  
  
• GTX 580 3gb x2 £800
  
  
• Asus P67 £127
  
  
• OS £78
  
  
• Ripjaws RAM £42
  
  
• Obsidian 800d £200
  
  
• 800w PSU £93
  
  That should run BF3 on ultra 1080p 60fps, so yeah it'll shit on any game. If your friend wants to spend that much purely for gaming then a 2600k and more than 16GB of ram is a waste. If he goes with an SLI set-up with a high end video card I'd strongly recommend at least 2 monitors otherwise you're not utilizing all of the card/s power. If not get a monitor with a high resolution. Total = £1550 w/ shipping and any other minor adjustments. You can get him the 2600k and 16GB of ram but it's his loss not your's.
  
  Note: I priced it up on Amazon because they are a good maker of pricing for components in the UK, you could probably find some parts cheaper.
  
  Edit: add an SSD if you like, they aren't for everyone. Personally i'd go with a 60gb good make one and stick OS and most played games on it; a 240gb one IMO if a big waste of money. But, each to their own.

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.

>i7 860

LGA 1156?

The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is cheap ($20) yet highly functional. The downside is that it's massive and might interfere with sticks of RAM if they have large heatspreaders.

Edit: Seriously? Downvoted for suggesting the most popular cooler amongst /r/buildapc users?

I'd go with a HAF 912 or Zalman Z9 case, as those have more features for the same price or less. And you can spend about ten more bucks and get twice the storage space.

Also, get the Hyper 212+ cooler. The TX3 is primarily a Core 2-era device.

Yeah I'd go with an Intel build at this price point as well. An i5-2400 at stock speeds still pretty handily beats even a 980, and I'm not sure you'd be able to close the gap by overclocking it a little more.

If you could fit a 2500k there wouldn't even be any contest, Intel would be the better cpu for sure.

Your questions:

• Should be enough to run BF3 on high and Skyrim on probably high/ultra
  
• I'm going to change this to a 2500k and a mobo that can overclock it
  
• 620w is definitely enough
  
• As long as you're willing to deal with having to ship it over internationally I don't think there's much of a problem; the most problem-prone parts would probably be.. the mobo or power supply? I don't really know tbh, the only one I would've worried about is the hard drive, but you only have an SSD in the build. I can't say if your case or monitor will come out in one piece though.
  
• I'll edit some changes in and I'll see what you think
  
  Edit: Here you go, a much much stronger cpu for only about $10 more.
  
  Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Microcenter
  Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $122.86 @ Newegg
  Memory | Corsair 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $33.22 @ Amazon
  Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $105.00 @ B&H
  Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 6870 1GB Video Card | $139.99 @ Newegg
  Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $49.88 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | Silverstone 600W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | $68.98 @ NCIX US
  Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $19.99 @ Newegg
  Monitor | Acer S231HLbid 23.0" Monitor | $154.99 @ Amazon
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) | $99.99 @ Newegg
  | | Total
  | Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $974.89
  | Generated 2011-12-26 23:14 EST-0500 |
  
  Add in a cheap $20 cooler like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20
  
  And for about $30 more, you get way more performance out of your build.

If you can get it for $30 get the Hyper 212+: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20

92mm heatpipes are not nearly as effective as the 120mm ones. I would reccomend the hyper 212+

He does not have an AIO. He has traditional water cooling.

I'm just using a 25$ tower cooler with 4 heat pipes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0

The Liquid Metal thermal paste was about the same price as the cooler itself. I did this back when Liquid Metal was pretty much unheard of and impossible to find. Back when people just started experimenting with deliding their CPUs. It made a 30c difference which is enough to beat traditional water cooling on a non-delided CPU.

My voltage is 1.05 to 1.28 depending on load. For some reason it crashes if I hit 1.3v so I can't take it higher even though I have cooling headroom. I don't think the mobo can supply power reliably as the Package begins to draw near 100W. Right now it pulls up to 84watts. Here are the stats over the last 5 days

http://i.imgur.com/ZaAsn3n.png

You may notice core #0 is 10-12C less than the others. This use to be the typical temp, and core #2 use to always be the coolest of the 4. I noticed this happened after I moved and knocked over the PC. I need to re-apply the Liquid metal but I prolly realistically will never get to it.

Also may notice that I'm not techincally at 4.4Ghz, my real scheme is 4 cores @ 43x, 3cores @ 44x with a 101ish mhz base clock for 4343Mhz full load and 4467Mhz partial load. I have to use this scheme because of my power draw limitation. I think my chip would have been able to go a lot faster otherwise.

The Noctua NH-D14 has clearance for RAM up to 44mm, though it will be a snug fit. The NH-D15s has RAM clearance up to 65mm, but you may want to add an additional fan to it to match some of the other's performance, which adds to the cost significantly.

Personally I will be going with the NH-D14 for my upcoming build, and just making sure I buy RAM that will fit.

Some suggestions to trim the fat:

• Replace the H100i with a NH-D15. It does better in cooling benchmarks, and offers quieter fans, and brings down the price $20.
  
  
• Vengance Pro ram is kind of overpriced, you can get the same thing for $25 cheaper.
  
  
• You can also save $100 by settling for a 240GB SSD, which should be more than enough to install your OS and games on. Heck, I have a 1TB + 240GB SSD, and I only use the SSD. The extra space you can just put on your HDD, if you do manage to overfill.
  
  
• You can save $100 by purchasing a 980 ACX 2.0, or $60 by purchasing a 980 ACX SC. The SC is by stock clocked higher than the Windforce, if you're not planning to custom OC.

Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.

My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.

Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.

This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.

Fortunately not needed. I did a lot of temp testing while setting it up, and 5 of these babies (2 in front, 2 in back, 1 on top) and this thing are enough to keep anything from getting to 60C. Surprisingly quiet too.

Next machine I will probably opt for water though.

Nope, I added https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The Z77 board should be completely compatible with your CPU the question is HP and other manufacturer have been known ro glue or even sodder CPUs to the boards. Don't know if they still do but they've done it in the past. While your at it get a after market cooler ideally this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SY115&simLd=1 it cools the best for almost any price point including lower end Water Cooling systems. And it's one of the quietest. Good luck

I assume this kind of product is out of the question since you want it to fit in 4 cm https://www.quietpc.com/nof-icepipe

An option for cpu cooling is something like this maybe https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Low-Profile-Cooler-Retail-Cooling/dp/B009VCAJ7W

If you get the clicking noise from your SF600 Gold, you can either switch out to an SF600 Platinum or add the NF-A9x14 found in the L9i or L9a. Do not use the separately sold NF-A9x14 as it will not start at the right voltage. If you still use the stock ribbon cables from the SF600 Gold, you can either buy the SF series cable kit, get/make custom cables or buy the SF600 Platinum.

As it currently stands, these are the only two reasons to make the upgrade from the SF600 Gold to its Platinum equivalent until JonnyGuru publishes a review.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009VCAJ7W/?tag=pcp0f-20

Only 4 left

Edit: lol got ninja'd :'(

Nothing really beats the performance of a Noctua NH-L9I. It's more pricey, but you are getting a very quality product.

Honestly, you probably won't hear any reduction in noise without changing the cooler. If you can fit it, I'd recommend a low profile noctua cooler such as this one.

Also, for what it's worth, you might consider a Ryzen 5 1600 for the price. More cores and generally better for most workloads. Biostar has a mITX Ryzen board. I'm not sure what programs you are running, but I would recommend looking into it if you haven't. Just a thought.

If you are going to Overclock, then YES you will need a 3rd party cooler.

Even at clock, my CPU was being throttled because of heat during heavy stress testing. Now, I never break 40 even at peak.

Here is what I got for my cooler. I run over clocked to 4.4 on my CPU and I never hit over 40 with this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008N8GELA/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A lot of people also use this, but I can't personally speak on its behalf.
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394134989&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+water+cooling

Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vrAyxb5NMMCVA

Link to H60 http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Series-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA

Heres the build:

CPU: $135 : e5 2670 v1 (x2)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0163AWD96/ref=dp_olp_used?ie=UTF8&condition=used


MOBO: $ 361 : Asus Z9PA-D8

http://www.amazon.com/Asus-Intel-LGA-Motherboard-Z9PA-D8-ASMB6-IKVM/dp/B00BRF7DAC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1461960263&sr=8-1&keywords=z9pa-d8

Ram: $305 : Kingston 16gb ddr3 ecc (x4)

http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=W64GER16K&c=CJ

Case: $94 : Rosewill 4U Rack

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147155&cm_re=4u_case-_-11-147-155-_-Product

CPU Coolers : $46 : Cooler Master Hyper T4 (x2)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/?tag=pcpapi-20

Storage: $64 : Crucial 240gb ssd

http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-BX200-240GB-Internal-Solid/dp/B016JREGAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1461961476&sr=1-1&keywords=crucial+ssd

PSU: $99 : EVGA Supernova 750

http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Crossfire-Warranty-220-G2-0750-XR/dp/B00IKDETOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1461965314&sr=1-1&keywords=evga+750w


Total: $1104.00

Here is a 47$ fan for 7$: https://www.amazon.ca/Cooler-Master-Contact-Cooling-RR-212L-16PR-R1/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480083097&sr=8-2&keywords=hyper+212
On the page it's 21$ but if you use this mail in rebates you can get 15$ more: http://www.mirhelp.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/Promo-_72116-RR-212L-16PR-R1.pdf
I just bought this very fan for this very cpu, but I can't actually tell with if it's good enough for overclocking, since I don't know really anything on the subject. Also, mail in rebates aren' like by everyone, so consider this.

Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:

1. Power supply: 550 watts is a great amount for this system. You could save some money by passing on the 80+ gold rating (although it's great to have a super efficient power supply, you don't need 80+ gold) and get a power supply that has an 80+ bronze efficiency rating. A power supply being fully modular isn't a must either, for me at least. A good semi-modular pick would be the Rosewill Hive 550, I have it and it has has sleeved black cables for about $55. If you want to save more money on the PSU, though, the EVGA basic 550W unit has all black cables and goes for around $43. Otherwise, the 600B from EVGA is a great 600W unit for around $50. Changing your power supply with these options might save you around $30-$40.
   
2. RAM: there are 16GB kits out there that are cheaper than the ones you selected, some are even in red to match your color scheme. I know there is a kit from Corsair that goes for around $80, so that might save you $20-$30 there. Otherwise, if you can't afford 16GB at the beginning of the build, 8GB will suffice until you upgrade. Just make sure if you get 8GB, get a single stick so you can throw another one in later. 8GB instead of 16 GB may save you $30-$40.
   
3. CPU cooler: The i5 6500 comes with its own stock cooler, so you can save around $25 by not paying for a CPU cooler right away. Otherwise, the 212 Evo is a superb cooler and also comes in a red LED fan version for a few bucks more :D
   
4. GPU: The GTX 1060 is a great option for a video card, but the RX 480 from AMD might be able to save you a few bucks right now and down the road. When you look to purchase another monitor, options with FreeSync (AMD adaptive sync) are normally cheaper than monitors with G-Sync (Nvidia adaptive sync). Adaptive sync monitors will make your gameplay smoother. Also, if you get a motherboard that supports crossfire, you can throw another RX 480 in your rig in the future. I will recommend you a motherboard for this at the end, and it won't cost you much more than your current one. An RX 480 8GB starts at around $230. Also, RX 480's are said to be better in DX12, another "future proofer".
   
5. Motherboard (minor): H110 is a budget chipset, and a Micro ATX one will save you a bit of money. BUT, if you want another RX 480, you'll need a motherboard with 2 PCIe slots to house them. An ATX motherboard will fill your case better, not look as awkward as a mATX one, and will let you put another RX 480 card in your rig in the future. A good ATX motherboard that would work for this build would be the Asus B150-PLUS for $95. This may be a bit expensive, but you could spend your saved money on this part. I highly suggest you exercise this option.
   
6. Storage: if 250GB is enough for you, then you could save some money by not getting a Samsung SSD. An SSD comparable to this would be the Crucial MX300 275GB for around $80. Also, the SanDisk z400s is $75 and is 256GB. If you want more storage, though, I would recommend a 120GB SSD like the PNY CS1311 for $40 and a 1TB hard drive like the WD Blue for $50.
   
   
   TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
   
   
   Links:
   “Basic” EVGA 550W
   Rosewill Hive-550
   EVGA 600B
   Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
   RX 480 -choose which one you like
   Asus B150-PLUS
   Crucial MX 300 275GB
   SanDisk Z400S 256GB
   WD Blue 1TB
   
   
   I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
   

Those are all kind of overkill for the 3600. It doesn't run hot at all, and a relatively cheap air cooler would be sufficient to max out the OC potential on that chip.

Liquid cooling, in general, is a worse value as air coolers will typically provide similar performance for less money. If you want a beefier cooler, I would recommend the Scythe Mugen 5. It performs nearly as well as the D15, but it's about $30-40 cheaper and should be more than enough for the 3600

The best cheap mid end cooler is the Scythe Mugan 5 Rev B for $45-50. The next step up would be the $55 Thermalright Macho Rev C. Both coolers weigh about the same same (Without the fan: 720g for Thermalright vs 750g for Scythe) but the Thermalright has a 140mm fan at 1500RPM vs 120mm at 1200RPM on the Scythe so the extra airflow should help it pull ahead a bit but you should be happy with either while saving a good $30-40 over the more expensive DRP4 or NH-D15 (I own a NH-D15 btw).

mugan 5 rev B review

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/8320/scythe-mugen-5-rev-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html

https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/259103.3b8b4d18dbe439a882e26d30bb89d870.1600.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

macho rev b (there isn't a rev C review, the main difference is the fan is +200RPM for the new model)

https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/6930/thermalright-macho-rev-cpu-cooler-review/index6.html

https://cdn.pcpartpicker.com/static/forever/images/userbuild/266239.ac2d58e6eab1849f1c6e66614515768e.1600.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S5VHRXM

BTW, both the DRP4 and NH-D15 will run within 1-2C and 1-2dB of eachother so you are mostly paying for looks and warranty with the Noctua having a 7yr and DRP4 having a 3yr.

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/be-quiet-dark-rock-pro-4/7.html

Any of the coolers you were looking at or I listed will all be effectively silent and all will be able to OC to about the same levels. The CPU itself is $185-200 so I cannot recommend a $80+ cooler and if I were to make a new build right now I would stick with the Mugan or Macho unless I went for a i9 9900k/R9 3900x. I don't recommend watercooling but if you wanted it you should look at the new Arctic Liquid Freezer II which is $90 for 280mm and $76 for 240mm and recent reviews put them above all other 240mm and 280mm coolers.

https://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/james-dawson/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-all-in-one-cpu-cooler-review/5/

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/arctic-liquid-freezer-ii-280-all-in-one-cpu-cooler,6376-2.html

Or get the GAmmax GT RGB https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-400-Blue-Compatible/dp/B074P3JCXX?th=1

Installation looks a little more complicated maybe, as you need the back plate. Or just replace the fan on the other one and use that included fan somewhere else in the case. Or pick a color for the Gammaxx 400, comes in multiple LED versions. look at link

It's a deepcool, haven't tried them but they look nice.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX

Built an all air build with this in white and RGB to the gills.

This looks like a model of a modern glass museum when fully decked out. STUNNING case. Very easy to build in, LOTS of room for cable management.

Make sure if you go air cpu cooler that you heed the size restrictions. I didn't and realized too late that the popular DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK is literally 1 or 2mm too large.

I have the same setup 2600 with the stock cooler and I have the same idle temps although my load temps are a lot cooler with a peak of 63c so I'm guessing I have better airflow than you. I'm getting this cooler on Saturday so things will run cooler and it's a good little cooler from the reviews I have seen.

I prefer the NH-L9A-AM4 to the C7 it’s quieter and performs about equal. Using it to cool an R7 1700 in a pink node 202 (gf build also)

NH-L9A-AM4 LOW PROFILE COOLER https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B075SG1T3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Si-JAbQPQ1JAQ

I think you might need to buy this one instead. Almost the same cooler, but for AM4 instead of 115x as the one you linked.

edit: correction

Beautiful tiny PC but here's a very friendly price break down. I'm using new prices here from Amazon except for the fan. This isn't taking into consideration whether the parts are a day or a year old they are officially used and if you go off of even good/average to great /r/hardwareswap deals this would be quite cheaper and it's hard to add a building tax to a community full of builders.

CPU $200 - Ryzen 3600

MOBO $129 - MSI B450i

GPU $320 - RTX 2060

NVME $90 - Samsung 970 Evo

RAM $90 - XPG 3200 MHz 16GB RGB

COOLER $40 - Noctua NH-L9a

FAN $24 - 25mm 4000 RPM Delta Fan

PSU $90 - OP's model is OOS

Custom SFF Cables - $30-50

CASE - GEEEK A30 + Riser Cable + Shipping = $100.67 (for me)

This is $1,113 for everything, basically new.

I don't really think it's a terrible price at all but the nature of this sub seems to be getting great deals so you can pretty much build a PC you would have never had if you just bought everything new on Amazon etc, especially since I believe this sub is full of PC builders. I have seen some absurd deals on this sub reddit that make me want to quit my job so I can just refresh constantly and that's because I've had a full system for awhile. Just a little food for thought for anybody. With some commitment to checking here you can get a great build for way below retail cost of the parts.

1800x doesn't come with a stock cooler, i believe.

in any case, the cooler on this build (noctua l9) looks a bit underwhelming for this cpu, no?: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9a-Premium-Low-profile-Cooler/dp/B075SG1T3X/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549087883&sr=8-4&keywords=noctua+l9

Noctua NH-L9a AM4, 37mm Premium Low-profile CPU Cooler for AMD AM4 (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SG1T3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Il01CbQJ9VH09

If you don't have a ton of data, you can easily use only 1TB of HDD.

Also, the 212 Evo+ is a good cooler :)

For $2,000, you can score a pretty excellent VR dev rig.

If you're already using UE4, and you've got got your DK1, you're probably relatively familiar with the basic demands— The faster your CPU, the faster everything compiles, and more ability you have to get things done simultaneously outside your IDE. RAM is a similar story, as well letting you play with more polys and textures in whatever modeling program you use. For the GPU, various Oculus people have dropped the hint that you pretty much want a GTX 770 as a baseline for advanced apps [source]. That's consistent with what benchmarks have had to say about what it'll take to drive the (probably) 1440p CV1.

With regards to the OS, there are very few reasons to use Windows 7. You can read some reddit discussions about that here or here, but the moral of the story is that everything works better on 8 except maybe the layout, which you can change.

$2,000 is a good spot— it's pretty much where the bang-for-buck curve becomes a cliff. Here's about how that build looks:

Full-Featured VR Kit

| part | link | | price |
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|cpu|Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Desktop Processor (3.5 GHz, 8 MB Cache, Intel HD graphics, BX80646I74770K)|amazon|$299.99|
|video card|EVGA GeForce GTX780 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 3GB GDDR5 384bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI,DP, SLI Ready (03G-P4-2784-KR)|amazon|$509.99|
|ram|G.SKILL Value 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-16GNT|newegg|$127.99|
|motherboard|ASRock Z87 PRO3 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$94.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR RM Series RM750 750W ATX12V v2.31 and EPS 2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$129.99|
|case|Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case (CC-9011011-WW)|amazon|$79.99|
|ssd|Crucial M500 240GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT240M500SSD1|newegg|$114.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.65|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$92.00|
|fans|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)|amazon|$32.00|
|monitor|LG IPS234V-PN Black 23" 14ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 5,000,000:1x2|newegg|$299.98|
|||||
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $1862.55|

Learn more and customize this build at kit.computer.


This leaves you with wiggle-room, to make a couple decisions based on your uses and preferences. You could bump one of the monitors up to 27" 1440p, you could bump the very capable GTX 780 up to a 780 Ti, you could move up to 32GB of RAM, increase the size of the SSD, or just pocket the change. It really depends on what apps you're trying to produce, and what your workflow looks like— if it were me, I'd lean towards the 1440p screen, just for workflow reasons.

If you have any questions (or anything to teach me), let me know!

That depends on whether or not you want to OC. I personally have a pretty large overclock (1 GHz) on my i5-3570k, and it's really helped my processor stay competitive. With a Hyper 212 Evo, you can get a great overclock, especially considering it's only $30.

Wow, I'm literally about to order the same build. I'm getting a H100i cpu cooler, the Maximus VI Hero instead of the Z87 pro mobo, and a Seagate Barracuda 1TB instead of a Caviar Blue 1TB HD. I'm also getting the red/black version to match my mobo. Everything else is the same even the same brand GTX 770. Please let me know how it runs, especially how quiet it is.

You have a lot of fans and an overclockable CPU. I would recommend you get an aftermarket CPU cooler to take advantage of these features. As I said above, I'm gonna try the Corsair H100i, but it is pretty expensive. Some less expensive air coolers that I think would look good in this build are

[Phanteks TC12DX](http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-U-Type-Heat-Sink-Cooler-PH-TC12DX_BK/dp/B00AXUTKEE/ref=sr_1_10? fs=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393992252&sr=1-10&keywords=phanteks+ph-tc14pe) for $60 on [sale for $40 + shipping] (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7616870) right now

Enermax ETS-T40 for $50 (also has leds on the stock fans)

And of course, the [Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393992767&sr=1-1&keywords=hyper+212+evo) for $35 which doesn't match as well but is cheap.

Great job on cable management (it's supposedly easy in this case) and I agree that it need a light on the inside. Let me know what light you end up getting because now I want one too.

I had my old 8320 at 4.5 ghz on a Hyper 212 evo and it was certainly worth it over the stock clocks, but definitely get a better cooler, the stock one cannot handle overclocking.

I recommend to just stick with the stock cooler and save a few bucks, but if you really want an after market cooler the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO should work great.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

According to this an i7 average temp is 50-65c
http://www.computerhope.com/issues/ch000687.htm

My suggestion, clean out your case all the way, clean and reapply thermal past to the heat sink. Also if you want to I have had fantastic results with this fan heats sink combo.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

For $30 you can get the legendary Cooler Master EVO 212
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1457118666&sr=1-3&keywords=cpu+cooler

Its a beast of a cooler for the price

Or id recommend the Arctic Cooling i30
http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-i30-Extreme-Cooler/dp/B006T0H5J4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457118855&sr=8-1&keywords=arctic+cooling+i30

both coolers i have used are they are really good for the price.

Agreed; was just funny how Strawberry 644 told OP it would be nice but simultaneously useless ;)


In any case, this would be affordable and complement the lighted theme:


Heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212


Fans for Heatsink (x2): Corsair Air Series AF120


I have the same (except Red LEDs since it matches my rig more so) and it looks amazing (and of course temps are down).


Edit: Crappy picture of mine

CPU: Intel i7 6700K

Heatsink:CoolMaster Hyper 212 Evo

Motherboard: MSI B250

RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ RGB Series

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOA 850 P2

Video Card: ASUS ROG-STRIX-GTX1080

Storage: WD Black 1TB

Extra Performance for OS: WD Blue 250GB SSD

• i5-7600k - This 4 core 4 thread CPU is awesome for gaming but struggles under heavily multi-threaded workloads. It doesn't come with a cooler, I would recomend this one. Total price w/CPU cooler = $244.88 USD
  
  
• AMD Ryzen 7 1700 - This 8 core 16 thread CPU is an absolute multi-threaded beast for the price. It's quite a lot less powerful per-core than the i5-7600k which will hurt gaming performance if your CPU is the limiting factor. It comes with a fancy RGB cooler. It's price has been dropping quite a lot recently, already down to $269.99 USD
  
  
• AMD Ryzen 5 1600 - This 6 core 12 thread CPU is pretty much the same as the R7 1700 but with two fewer cores and four less total logical threads. It will have near the same single threaded performance as the 1700. This will also work with the same motherboards as the 1700. It ships with a slightly less fancy cooler as the 1700, but it will still keep it cool. Price is very good at $199.99 USD

I mean the product description page is for the 212 evo, that is correct but if you go to the page with the prices and who is selling it (the link below)

https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/offer-listing/B005O65JXI/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

You can see is only 6 people, 3rd party sellers. None are amazon themselfes

well, back to topic;

Do you absolutely must include Corsair h100i in your build ? i think you can save some by using air cooler and use the budget saved from that for Graphic card or CPU.

For example, this 212 Evo here.

This is going to be a much better solution https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493346642&sr=1-3&keywords=cpu+cooler

I think its fine from what i know about pc building. But if you want faster boot times then think about getting a ssd and if you want to over clock think about getting a better cpu cooler. The stock Ryzen 3 cooler is not bad but if you want to get some good overclock on it think about getting a after market cooler. This is one i found on amazon:https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1505260014&sr=1-4&keywords=CPU+cooler Also if you want a water cooled one you need to see if your case supports water cooling.

On a stock CPU, you don't need a watercooler at all. Even the stock cooler will do perfectly fine on stock speeds. However, you should probably consider overclocking your CPU, as you have a K-series, which is unlocked. Just make sure you have a supported (re: Z170) motherboard.

Now for the cooler; if you aren't planning on overclocking, just use your stock cooler. If you don't have it, I'd recommend the Hyper 212 EVO, as it's cheap and does the job. Also gives you ample headroom for moderate overclocking in the future. If you are really planning on overclocking, I'd actually recommend the H100i v2, as it's only $10 more, but provides much better cooling performance because it's a 240mm rad. You should get 4+ Ghz easy on that cooler. >= 4.5 Ghz really depends on the CPU, or the "silicon lottery" as they say.

Link to H100i V2: http://pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww

Link to Hyper 212 EVO: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

I bought several <$50 items:
This keyboard is a great deal for a back lighted mechanical one.
https://www.amazon.com/Velocifire-Mechanical-Keyboard-Illuminated-Anti-ghosting/dp/B01M0QEYR4/

Also this any of these refurbished mouses, I specifically got one of the M65:
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/certified-refurb?c=mice

If things are running hot in the CPU, you could also get a Hyper Evo 212.
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

Hope this helps!

I’d save a bit of money and go with a b450 board unless you absolutely need the pcie 4.0. this MSI tomahawk is good or this Gaming pro Carbon if you want wifi built in. The other things I’d swap is your ssd for an intel 660p. It’s cheaper and faster.

As for a cooler, with the black theme you’ve got going a dark rock pro 4 would look pretty sweet in there, just check compatibility with your memory for clearance.

Noctua Redux 1700 RPM’s are $14. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6

/u/shadowciaw you were looking for 120mm fans under $20:

NF-P12 Redux 1700rpm

You can’t go wrong with a Noctua air cooler. You seem like a grown up and don’t care about color, so the u14 or d14 would be a good buy.

Noctua website have MB compatibility lists for all their coolers.

I have a be quiet dark rock pro 4 purely because it was in black.

As for fans,
These are my favorite 120mm pwms

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6

Spend a little extra for pwm. You’ll get a much more control and a quieter PC.

Also, 158mm clearance from the base and of the MB to the side panel? Or something else?

$2400 4K Gaming PC

Max settings at 4K resolution will bring any existing hardware to its knees, but we can come very close to your desired 120fps. You should expect to get better framerates substantially higher than the benchmarks below because the video card in this build is clocked 13.6% higher than the reference model.

The key to achieving the highest framerates at 1440p and 4K is simply to include the strongest video card possible. This means the RTX 2080Ti with the highest boost clock frequency we can afford.

• Destiny 2 Ultra Settings:
  
• 1440p: 198fps
  
• 4K: 99fps
  
• Full benchmarks
  
• Micro Center Parts:
  
• CPU, Motherboard
  
  PCPartPicker Part List
  
  Type|Item|Price
  :----|:----|:----
  CPU | Intel Core i7-9700K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor | $299.99
  CPU Cooler | be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 50.5 CFM CPU Cooler | $90.00
  Motherboard | Gigabyte Z390 GAMING X ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $119.99
  Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
  Storage | Sabrent Rocket 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | $249.98 @ Amazon
  Video Card | MSI GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB GAMING X TRIO Video Card | $1199.89 @ Amazon
  Case | NZXT H700 ATX Mid Tower Case | $109.98 @ Amazon
  Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | $89.99 @ Newegg
  Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $137.90 @ OutletPC
  Wireless Network Adapter | Rosewill RNX-AC1900PCE PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter | $59.99 @ Newegg
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2457.70
  | Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
  | Total | $2427.70
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-25 21:49 EDT-0400 |
  
  

  Explanation of Part Choices:
  

  
  

• Cpu: This is the second strongest gaming cpu available. You could technically get away with the 6-core Ryzen 5 3600 or the i5-9600K, but with a budget this large it makes sense to spend a bit extra to get an 8-core cpu to future-proof the build against the possibility that future games begin using more than 6 cores. I don't recommend the more expensive 9900K because we don't need hyper threading and the performance difference at 1440p and 4K resolutions will be negligible, and we are better off spending that money on a stronger video card.
  
• Cpu Cooler: This is one of the top two air coolers available and actually delivers stronger cooling performance than most high-end AIO water coolers. It will enable you to heavily overclock the 9700K if you choose. It is currently out of stock, but will be in stock on October 29th.
  
• Motherboard: One of the cheapest motherboards with VRMs strong enough to support overclocking the 9700K. See the Intel VRMs tier list.
  
• Memory: 3000mhz is the fastest speed before intel cpus suffer heavy diminishing returns. 15CAS latency instead of 16 (lower latency results in faster cpu performance). 16GB is more than enough memory unless you will be using this PC for professional video editing or CAD work.
  
• SSD: Cheapest 2TB TLC NVMe SSD with a dram cache and a 5 year warranty (make sure you register to get the warranty). NVMe SSDs are ~3 times faster than traditional SATA SSDs. TLC SSDs are much faster than the cheaper QLC SSDs in sustained reads/writes and do not slow down as much as they fill up. I do not recommend an HDD unless you plan to store large amounts of video files. It's hard to go back to loading games from an HDD after you've experienced SSD loading speeds.
  
• Video Card: The RTX 2080Ti is the strongest gaming video card available. EVGA is considered the most reliable brand with the best customer service. I selected a high-end model (as determined by its boost clock speed). It's boost clock speed is 1755mhz, which is 13.6% faster than the basic models which are clocked at 1545mhz. There are 2080Ti's with higher clock speeds than this, but they either have poor ratings or are several hundred dollars extra, which is just a very poor value.
  
• Case: This is the high-end version of the most popular case (the H500). We want the H700 because this build has very power-hungry hardware (more power equals more heat) and the H700 has significantly better airflow thanks to its larger vents and four case fans. I selected the black and white model just because it was slightly cheaper than the all black model.
  
• Power Supply: 7 year warranty. 750W is more than enough for this 449W system, which leaves plenty of room for overclocking and future upgrades. Modular for easier cable management. 80+ gold efficiency.
  
• OS: Windows 10 Pro as requested. However, Windows 10 Home would be fine as long as this PC will not be part of a large network of computers (like in a business office) and as long as you do not care about the remote access feature that Pro has.
  
• Wifi: It is actually much cheaper to get a separate wifi adapter than to get a motherboard with built-in wifi in most cases, particularly since you need gigabit connection speeds. This model is the cheapest gigabit wifi adapter with a large sample size of good reviews. Rated for 1300Mbps on the 5.0 GHz band and 600Mbps on the 2.4hz band. You can spend a bit more on the ASUS AC1900 if you want an extension cable so that the antennas can be in a more advantageous spot. This would only be necessary if the PC will be far from the router or or if the PC will be stuck under a metal desk or something else that would significantly block wifi signals.

Might be the bearing getting old? Safer to buy a new CPU cooler in that case.

In the past, Hyper 212 EVO would be a good replacement, and price can fall as low as $20.

Not sure about the in thing these days though, maybe something like this one. Got budget?

​

I've heard about a few ways to repair, such as replacing with fan from case fan, but I'm no expert on that.

Because you're going with a K series CPU you'll probably want to overclock at some point.

You're going to want to get a different cooler- the i7 8700K runs hot, and the hyper 212 evo isn't a very good cooler. It'll barely be sufficient at stock frequencies, and with an overclock it'll certainly not be enough.

​

I'd recommend something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BK022-Cooler-6-Pole-Wings135mm/dp/B07BY6F8D9?th=1

​

I'd also add in this ssd:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/?tag=pcpapi-20

​

An SSD improves user experience *dramatically*. You'll want to install windows on it, not the HDD.

Price History

• be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4, BK022, 250W TDP, CPU   ^PureLink
  ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.6/5 from 165 valid reviews
  CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
  
  _
  Don't En Passant these deals.
  ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdshuft%2Fcpu_cooler_be_quiet_dark_rock_pro_4_11798amazonca%2Ff6pf0xb%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**

For instance, this: https://www.amazon.com/quiet-Dark-Rock-BK022-Cooler/dp/B07BY6F8D9/ref=sr_1_2?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1573484226&refinements=p_36%3A1253505011&rnid=386442011&s=pc&sr=1-2

will net you MUCH more cooling, closer or better than 240mm AIO's, but for about 40% less.

The be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 is currently the king of CPU air coolers. If that's out of your price range, nothing beats the price/performance ratio of the Hyper 212 EVO.

Sino naka try na mag order sa amazon. Gusto ko kasi tong heatsink nato. Baka kasi sira na pag dating dito.

Air. Going for BE QUIET Dark Rock Pro 4

I went for aesthetic in my build and am happy with having these two 120mm on the bottom of my case in exhaust:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/141-9275322-8501005?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CG2PGY6&pd_rd_r=60afe392-240a-4444-a5a3-7b42be255b55&pd_rd_w=fV2CU&pd_rd_wg=Kd6xh&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=V994273QQFY6HQP1QDDM&psc=1&refRID=V994273QQFY6HQP1QDDM

Maybe referring to Noctua and Be Quiet fans? These can go for $14-25 per fan...

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CG2PGY6/

That is a fantastic price. The stock cooler is pretty bad but even still it is 13% faster than a GTX 1080 which is worth $450-550 used right now.

http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-Titan-X-Pascal-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1080/m158352vs3603

If you upgrade the cooler you can get a bit more from the card.

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=2T3-0007-00004

Pair that with 2 decent fans.

https://www.amazon.ca/redux-1700-high-Performance-heatsinks-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6

PCPartPicker Part List

|Type|Item|Price|
|:-|:-|:-|
|CPU|AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor|$117.98 @ Amazon|
|Motherboard|ASRock B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard|$74.98 @ Amazon|
|Memory|Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory|$82.99 @ Amazon|
|Storage|Sabrent Rocket 512 GB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive|$59.98 @ Amazon|
|Video Card|XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED Video Card|$179.99 @ Amazon|
|Case|In Win G7 ATX Mid Tower Case|$42.00 @ Amazon|
|Power Supply|EVGA GD (2019) 600 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply|$66.77 @ Amazon|
|Case Fan|Rosewill ROCF-13001 38.2 CFM 120 mm Fan|$14.99 @ Amazon|
|Custom|Fancasee 4-Pin PWM Fan Power Supply Cable 1 to 5 Splitter 5 Way PC Case Internal Motherboard Fan Power Extension Cable Cord Wire for ATX Computer Case 4-Pin and 3-Pin Cooling Fans (13 inch, Black)|$7.90 @ Amazon|
||||
|Total|$647.58||
|Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-10-22 11:45 EDT-0400|||

CPU: The AMD Ryzen 5 2600 with 6 cores and 12 threads should handle any workload you throw at it and gaming is a breeze. This is an overclockable chip so if you want to try doing that later on you can do so no problem.

Motherboard: The ASRock B450M PRO4 is a great motherboard and can handle overclocking if you want to try that in the future and has WiFi and Bluetooth built in.

RAM: The Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB kit has the speed that Ryzen demands. 3200 is a great speed for this gen and does a wonderful job in adding performance.

Storage: The Sabrent Rocket 512GB M.2 SSD has plenty of fast storage in a small M.2 factor with no SATA cables going to it leaving less for cable management.

Video Card: The XFX Radeon RX 580 8 GB GTS XXX ED is a great card and you should be able to game at 1080p 60+fps easily for Destiny 2.

Case: The In Win G7 Mid Tower Case because it looks nice, easy to work in, is black and has great airflow.

Power Supply: The EVGA GD (2019) 600 W 80+ Gold will allow you in the future to upgrade your hardware and still have power left over. You can even overclock your CPU and GPU if you want and have a lot of headroom still. It comes with a 5 year warranty and is a great PSU.

Case Fans: I added a pack of case fans from Amazon to help airflow inside you case since it doesn't come with any. I chose these because they don't cost $20USD a fan and perform well. If you want to spend more money on fans I recommended these for $14USD they are quiet and perform just as good as others.

Custom Parts: I also added a fan hub for $8USD for case fans so you can power most if not all of them from one fan slot on your motherboard.

Total: $647.58USD ~ €581.06 before tax

Total: $701.01USD ~ €629.00 after tax (using Texas sales tax rate of 8.25%)

All of these parts are available from Amazon because I wasn't sure what was available in Germany. If you can't get something where you are let me know and I'll redo the list from a retailer you can get parts from.

If you have any questions please feel free to ask!

Use the Antec case, pull the 120mm fans and replace with Noctuas, keep the 200 as that will be quiet.

Make sure to lower the fan rpm using motherboard software/bios, you can get a PWM hub to simplify things down to one port or if there aren't enough ports on the motherboard.

This is exactly what I was looking for. Is there any reason I shouldn't get the cheaper one?

1: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A12x25-5V-Premium-Adaptor/dp/B07DXLCVVL

​

2: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-redux-1700-high-Performance-Award-Winning-Affordable/dp/B07CG2PGY6/ref=pd_cp_147_2/136-3502457-2079017?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CG2PGY6&pd_rd_r=62bfa581-9359-4dc6-b801-c083c7394735&pd_rd_w=H4Xb6&pd_rd_wg=7AV6M&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=W1YHQXHVRZ6482H00APE&psc=1&refRID=W1YHQXHVRZ6482H00APE

EDIT:.... I honestly know nothing about these. I'm not sure if you can just sit them up vertically in the back of the cabinet or if they have to be installed into the PS4 etc.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CG2PGY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Kinda overpriced, just paying for rgb. 212 evo or gammaxx gt are just as good for half the price

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3

I would suggest a tower style air cooler in the $30-$40 range. They are the most reliable and simplest solution, and offers the most value for your money. There's quite a lot of options:

bq! Pure Rock Slim $30 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVNCEIG/

​

CM Hyper 212 EVO $35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/

​

CM Hyper 212 Black $37 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/

​

Arctic Freezer 34 $34 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ9MQ5M/

​

Enermax ETS-TF40F $36 https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16835214064

​

There's like a half dozen more options, these are some highlights looking at the current cooler prices on pcpartpicker.

So you can use the fan that comes with the case or.... grab one of these whichever catches your eye.


Noctua NH-U12S - Premium CPU Cooler with NF-F12 120mm Fan (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9EYVGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lstIDbNAN6J5X


Cooler Master RR-212S-20PK-R1 Hyper 212 Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm Silencio Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sttIDb4SDN6PP

You’ll have to add that to your pc build on pc parts picker to verify it fits your cpu base (AM4) and fits your case also. They have low profile ones like above here also


Noctua NH-L9x65, 65mm Premium Low-Profile CPU Cooler (Brown) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5utIDb725S0DG

This one is good

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1550340250&sr=8-10-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=cpu+cooler&psc=1

I'm getting the new Hyper 212 EVO "Black Edition", it's slightly redesigned and it looks amazing to me :D It's $35

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541926100&sr=8-3&keywords=hyper+212+black

Any beefy cooler has a chance to cover the RAM. See good coolers below that most likely won't cover the RAM:

Noctua NH-U12s

Hyper 212 Black Edition (Does come in RGB as well)

be quiet! Dark Rock 4

If the price difference is only $10 keep the 3600X. The performance difference in gaming and most task is so small that 3600X is hard to recommend if it $20 or more than the 3600. TechSpot following back on MSRP pricing



>Wrap Up
>
>Is the Ryzen 5 3600X worth purchasing over the 3600? Not at all. Other than to improve AMD’s margins there’s absolutely no reason for the 3600X to exist. Yes, you get a better cooler out of the box, but you’re paying $40 more for that cooler and it’s simply not worth that kind of price premium, $10 sure, but not much more than that.
>
>Rather than waste $40 on the 3600X, get the vanilla 3600 and if you want to reduce the operating volume and squeeze a tiny bit more performance out of the Ryzen 5 processor, grab something like the Cooler Master 212 Black for $30.

https://www.amazon.in/Arctic-Freezer-33-Plus-Performance/dp/B06WP381DL/

https://www.amazon.in/Cooler-Master-RR-212S-20PK-R1-Contact-Silencio/dp/B07H25DYM3/

https://www.amazon.in/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

Arctic 33 Plus should be the best value and can easily handle the 8700.

Amazon has the same cooler for $34.99 - $10 MIR => ~$24.99. I decided to take up the Amazon version of this offer because I'm not sure I'm going to need the cooler (miiight be getting an extra mounting bracket from a friend that'll let me mount my old Hyper 212 Plus on my AM4 socket) so I wanted the superior return options.

Stock intel cooler is NOTORIOUSLY awful. I mean, it's laughed it for how bad it is. Honestly, you would be best off just buying a Hyper 212 Evo. It is THE value budget cooler, and it performs great. You have a 4690k, so it's unlocked for overclocking... why not get a cooler that can allow it to do that competently?

The cooler will allow it to stay at the overclock when folding, and have pretty decent temps to boot. Additionally, you may eliminate some throttling in gaming that you may never know you had.

Regardless of any of this, CPUs generally like to be kept at the lowest temp possible, and if you are planning on helping the Folding@Home cause (which you should!), you are gonna want a beefier cooler to prevent any possible lifespan shortening, no matter how rare that may be with modern CPUs today. It will be quieter too, which I always find is a major plus.

Good luck!

Hyper 212EVO

You might need to update the LAN driver on you're motherboard. AMD's stock coolers are usually pretty loud. Some PSU fans are also very loud. You will need to buy an aftermarket cooler before overclocking such as this one.

Cheap option, get this (might be a tight squeeze, requires removing the side panel fan): https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

Best option, get this (also requires removing that side panel fan, but might be a tiny bit easier to fit in as it's 2mm shorter): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY

unless you don't want to remove the side-panel fan at all, then get this, still great cooling: https://www.amazon.com/noctua-Premium-Cooler_Retail-Cooling-NH-C14S

It would also be helpful to know your motherboard model to check the compatibility list. But I'm fairly certain these coolers should fit regardless.

They include decent thermal paste, but the FX8350 is one of the hotter chips and it might be worthwhile to squeeze a few extra degrees out with this paste: https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU

The best and relatively easiest ways to address poor aesthetics in the CPU are a modular or semi-modular PSU and replacement sleeved and color coordinated cables from said PSU, or if they are too expensive (and they are) sleeved cable extensions look just as good and are way cheaper, but create additional cable management.

​

Regarding a cooling system you should definitely still have one even if you are not OC'ing. If you want to go cheap, get a solid air cooler like the Hyper 212 Evo. If you are more concerned about looks, maybe consider an AIO, like the EVGA CLC240. It's more expensive, but looks nice.

​

Not 100% sure what you mean about the front facing fan, but if you are asking about fan placement, then yes at the front of the case is fine just make sure it isn't going against the airflow of other fans. If you mean fan orientation, like intake/exhaust, then that is also fine, with the same caveat. Generally speaking you want your airflow coming in the front/bottom and exhausting out the top/back.

​

PSU:
EVGA 600BQ Semi-Modular (MB power is the only non-modular) https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Warranty-110-BQ-0600-K1/dp/B01MTJTO2O/ref=sr_1_1?crid=244UIDUJ0IXE&keywords=600+watt+power+supply&qid=1556624118&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A2500-6000%2Cp_89%3ACorsair%7CEVGA%7CSeasonic%7Cbe+quiet%21%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906985011&rnid=386442011&rps=1&s=pc&sprefix=600+watt+p%2Caps%2C136&sr=1-1

One thing to keep in mind about PSU's is they tend to go on sale more frequently and at better discounts (percentage wise) than many other PC components.

​

Cable Extensions:

Antec Sleeved PSU extension cables

https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Supply-Sleeved-Extension-Length/dp/B07C6CLXW8/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=antec+psu+cable+extensions&qid=1556624318&s=electronics&sr=1-3-fkmrnull

​

CPU Cooler:

Hyper 212 Evo (Air cooler-Cheap and functional, not pretty)

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

CLC 240 (AIO water cooling- Pretty and functional, not cheap)

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL24-V1/dp/B074WH52BW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=clc+240&qid=1556624855&s=electronics&sr=1-1

​

​

Hope this helps!

All I can reccomend is one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421625126&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo&pebp=1421625127186&peasin=B005O65JXI

Overclock that sucker to 4.3+ and you'll run DayZ a lot better.

• 750 Watt Power Supply. $89.98
  
  
• Generic Corsair Case. $64.99 You can shop around for something better looking for a little more money.
  
  
• DDR4 3200 RAM (2*4GB Sticks) for $147.99 and DDR4 3200 RAM (1*8GB Stick) for $160.32. You can also drop to 3000MHz and save like $5-10 but not worth it in my opinion.
  
  
• GTX 1060 3GB for $304.99 or GTX 1060 6GB for $389.99.
  
  
• i7 8700k for $449.99 or i7 7700k for $422.96. 8700k is 8th gen and 7700k is 7th gen. You can drop to any processor around an i7 7700 (No "k") without seeing issues I'd assume. WoW is a processor heavy game though. Still my i7 8700k only ever reaches maybe 30% useage that I see.
  
  
• Heat Sink + Fan. Cooler Master is good. $34.99
  
  
• i7 8700 will require a 300 Series Motherboard like ASUS ROG for $141.50 or ASUS Prime for $84.99. The 7700s will take a 200 series motherboard like this one for $129.61 or this one for 149.99. Basically just make sure it has all the hook-ups you need (sound and USBs and shit) with the proper chip set and supports DDR4 RAM with minimum 1 PCI Express slot for your GPU.
  
  
• Samsung 860 Evo 500GB SSD for $179.94 or the 250GB for $109.94. Any decent SSD will do. Make sure it has enough room for your OS and the game(s) you play. You can use any regular HD to store other stuff on. Samsung is a good brand for them.
  
  When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
  
  That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
  
  $1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.

That would work but for a couple dosh more, I would go with the 212 EVO instead. Unless, for some reason, you NEED the T2.

I wouldn't get that Kingston ssd. There was a bait and switch with the unit and the early drives (the ones reviewers got) were much faster than the ones they make now. I would replace that with something else like a Samsung 850 EVO. You may also want to consider getting a hard drive for mass storage, videos take up a lot of space.
You could also get an after market CPU cooler to overclock a bit or just get a quieter PC, although it is not necessary. You don't need anything expensive, a hyper 212 evo.
other than that the build looks fine.

Well, mainly I needed a new CPU because my PC would shut off completely. I thought it was the PSU but when I ran Prime 95 and stress tested the CPU, I got the same result and my PC would shut off.

So I upgraded with these parts:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EYYNP0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010T6CG7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (haven't installed this yet)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M8ABEIM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (had a 200GB SATA HDD and it was old and slow. SSD has really helped the speed out)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MMLUYPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm keeping my eye out for the RX480 when that comes out. It's supposed to be as good as the GTX 980 and only cost $200. Waiting on benchmarks with heavy breathing.

Checking Amazon I can get :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Q7GOM6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For $109

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For $30 - I'll need a better cooler since I am not currently over clocking the 2500k and am using stock cooling.

Thats $140 - half the cost of a new 6400 combo - do you think that the 2500k will work for the Oculus Rift, and do you think its worth spending that kind of money to salvage?

Here was my attempt, came in about $40 over if you have Amazon Prime. Decent build - definitely a great home to drop a GPU into later. glhf!

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600k Quad-Core Processor | $237.89 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Evo 212 CPU Cooler | $29.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte ATX DDR4 LGA 1151 Motherboards GA-G1.Sniper B7 | $109.93 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill NT Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $64.74 @ Amazon
SSD | Sandisk Ultra II 480GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $124.99 @ Amazon
Case | Apex Vortex Mid Tower Case | $40.44 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA 600B Bronze Power Supply | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $647.97
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-07-24 18:59 EDT-0400 |

I bought this 212 EVO from Amazon and set it up today.

I'm really liking it. Keeps the PC cool, it's fairly silent, and definitely worth the price ($22.50 + tax, free s/h).
It says used because there's damage to packaging, however it's not actually been used.

Good damn I forgot to put it in. No worries tho, I realized that it's not even available in Canada. This one should work too lol.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473207943&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=cryorig+h7&dpPl=1&dpID=518BEXKEiiL&ref=plSrch

hello, in my opinion you should not get an nvr for the fact that they are expensive and you can not upgrade them down the line, what i recommend is building a pc base nvr and use the blue iris softwere, my recommendation and my current set up is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018QDIO2S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FN9QT34/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J8E8Y5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TR8YL4W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

if you have an old computer you can save some parts and moeny by reusing the power supply, hdd and maybe the case. all that will be around 250-300, the you will have 200 to buy 4 poe 1080p cameras 50 each, and good things is that you can add more later on, best of the luck, you do need few more parts so let me know if you interested and i will put them together for you. you can take a look at mine at http://mymun2.25u.com:81 demo/demo for username and passowrd.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497086245&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hyper+212+evo&dpPl=1&dpID=518BEXKEiiL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045JCFLY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497086295&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thermal+paste&dpPl=1&dpID=31H%2BzKu4DEL&ref=plSrch

This is what I picked up after the h60 wasn't keeping my cpu cool enough to play GTAV.

Build complete!

I ultimately decided to buy the ASUS board and replace the CPU cooler while I was at it. A few caveats about the Sabertooth X58:

1. If you want the X58, consider a case with USB 2.0 ports on the front panel. The Cooler Master HAF 922 only has USB 3.0 ports, which are meant to connect to the motherboard with a 20-pin connector. The X58 lacks a port for this type of connector, so I will have to install something like this Anker Uspeed card if I want to use the front USB ports.
   
   
2. The first two SATA ports on the board are 6 Gb/s, but they are on a separate Marvell controller, which by all accounts is absolute garbage. I am using the 3 Gb/s ports, which are on an Intel controller, and those seem fast enough for me. I disabled the Marvell in the BIOS.
   
   
3. Make sure to switch your storage mode to AHCI if you want to get the most out of your SATA drives. The BIOS defaults to IDE mode. (And the ASUS manual is mostly useless because it doesn't tell you anything you can't already infer from the names of the BIOS settings.)
   
   
4. You need to manually configure the boot order of your hard disks, otherwise it will try the wrong disk and fail to find your OS. I had a moment of panic because I forgot that my boot partition is not on my SSD but rather on the original HDD that came with my Dell.
   
   Personally, I think these are minor issues as long as you're aware of them. And now that I've told you, you are :)
   
   The 5800 series does not require Dell-specific drivers. In fact, Windows 7 detected and installed drivers for pretty much all my hardware on boot. It took a couple reboots to get everything installed.
   
   Final tally:
   
   

• Cooler Master HAF 922 case - 79.99 USD
  
• Corsair TX650 power supply - 89.99 USD
  
• ASUS Sabertooth X58 motherboard - 119.99 USD
  
• Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler w/fan - 33.01 USD
  
  
  TOTAL COST: 322.98 USD + tax
  
  Not bad to get a few more years of life out of the components. And this case and PSU combo should be a solid platform for future upgrades.
  
  I wish you luck with your own build. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions.

Only if you're going to overclock the CPU. The stock heatsink and cooler that comes with that amd CPU isn't bad... As long as you don't overclock...

However, if you do decide to overclock, I recommend the hyper 212 evo. It's about $33, but is really a fantastic cooler for the price. Very quiet, very efficient, couldn't ask more of it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1374791838&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Actually, I missed that part out.

Get this; the Hyper 212 EVO by Cooler Master:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005O65JXI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1425420991&sr=8-1&keywords=hyper+212+evo&dpPl=1&dpID=518BEXKEiiL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

It's like the most recommended cooler on the planet xD.

i have coolermaster too. this cpu can take a beating i've learned in terms of o/c but safer is better

and i think you misread my comment. if youtube uses flash, then if its not up to date it might stop working in youtube because now csgo is using it for the GUI. i thiiiiiiink i had this issue aaaaages ago but thats when i had a shit pc so i attributed it to that

this cooler

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this board with auto o/c (idk if you can find the settings it changes on the interwebs or not)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAGY3C8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CPU Coolers usually work with a lot of different boards and CPUs.
For example, THIS CPU cooler works with LGA 2011, 1366, 1151, 1150, 1155, 1156, 775,AMD: FM2+, FM2, FM1, AM3+, AM3, AM2+, AM2 and AM1.

Note: I don't think you really need a new cooler. However, If you want lower temps then you'll need to get a new CPU cooler.

What GPU do you have?

That's definitely a closed-loop system. These are supposed to last 4-5 years, but they have been known to break before that. There's a propylene glycol/water antifreeze fluid (just like a car) inside them, and a little pump (powered by the blue/green/yellow/black cable) pushes warm water from the CPU to the radiator, where is is cooled down and returned to the processor. When they fail they go one of two ways, either they get a crack in them and the water leaks, or the pump quits working.
It's possible that for some reason your motherboard has decided to not run the CPU fan (which is actually the pump) at 100% even though it's overheating (things like quiet mode can do this) and it's possible that when it's running at say 85% that it's not enough juice to start the pump... Check your BIOS for any quiet/silent mode settings and see if you can disable them. If the CPU fan is showing an RPM rating, this is actually the rating of the pump.

If you have gigabyte's tuning software installed, make sure you max out the CPU fan speed. Pumps are not fans, and it's possible that the pump just isn't getting enough power.

If the pump has gone bad, you can replace it with something similar (expect about the same life span and noise level). Personally, I'd switch to air cooling, as there's less that can go wrong. /r/buildapc could probably make suggestions... The only thing you need to be sure of with your next solution is that it works with AM3 processors. Your motherboard is compatible with standard 3-pin fans and 4-pin PWM fans, so you can pretty much use anything.

Personally, I have this a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo. It's big. Very big. My case side almost doesn't fit on, but it's super quiet and doesn't depend on a pump. When idle, my CPU fan doesn't even need to run. It relies on heatpipes, which are VERY different from water cooling systems.

If you wanted to, you could switch back to a stock heatsink as well. The one that comes with your processor looks like this, but you may have a problem, it clips to a piece of plastic that appears to be missing from your motherboard (see here). You may have problems fitting OEM parts. I believe the Coolermaster fan I listed above will work even though that bracket is missing, but I'm not 100%

*edit: it looks like there's another black cable going into the heatsink in your top picture... Where does that go?

This puppy is 3.55cm tall.

There are two cases that fit the bill with out going rack mount.
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=452&area=en
and http://www.u-nas.com/xcart/product.php?productid=17617&cat=0&featured=Y

If you go with the UNAS case then you pretty much have to go with http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VCAJ7W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2CXA4GZBWDX2B&coliid=I2QKJV0LTZEWID if you are using a socket motherboard.


The other option is getting something with all 5.25 drive bays and get 5 into 3 hotswap trays.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811156269

The raid max is about as cheap as i have found for 9 5.25 drive bays. This will give you 15 drive spots in a normal size tower. not counting what you can fit inside in non hotswap areas.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Low-Profile-Cooler-Retail-Cooling/dp/B009VCAJ7W

Something like this should work well: http://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NH-L9i-CPU-K%C3%BChler-Sockel-1155/dp/B009VCAJ7W

In mine I used a Noctua L9i - Mostly because I really wanted the extra space for cabling. It made the build quite a bit easier and has worked like a champ.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B009VCAJ7W/?tag=pcp0f-20

Noctua NH-L9i CPU cooler for $16.99 on Amazon by a new seller when its usually like $50. Is this fake?

Just a heads up on the Noctua L9i, it's $39.95 currently on Amazon Prime so you may want to reconsider that price.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Low-Profile-Cooler-Retail-Cooling/dp/B009VCAJ7W

Noctua makes low profile coolers
http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Low-Profile-Cooler-Retail-Cooling/dp/B009VCAJ7W

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Low-Profile-Cooler-Retail-Cooling/dp/B009VCAJ7W

Thats a good one.

And just to clarify from one of my earlier posts, which i'll edit. "Air coolers will do a better job cooling." I mean that air coolers will do better than that H55.

I did just that and ordered the 6600k. It doesn't come with stock cooling so I ordered this too https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009VCAJ7W/?tag=pcp0f-21 - should be small enough to fit in my case.

It can be done. People put ITX systems with a zotac 1080 mini into the NFC Skyreach. That case measures 34.8 x 22.5 x 5.7 CM.

This could be done with an ATX motherboard, if you placed the GPU parallel to the motherboard and situated it just above the PCI-e slots. Here's a quick and dirty sketch: ATX mobo/horizontal gpu.

For a project of this nature, you'll want to look into the HD Plex 400 Watt DC-ATX PSU as well as the Noctua NH-L9i, and finally, a short flexible riser cable.

You see, this is sort of my thing... Hope this helps.

Ah, well if you ever want to get one around the same size that's better something like this Noctua would probably work.

This case isn't really built for tall, tower air coolers. For a vertical air cooler, I would say no higher than 80mm tall. With that said, I wouldn't recommend vertical air coolers because of the limited air space between the mobo and top of the case. Instead, I would recommend just going for liquid cooling or a horizontal low profile one like this Noctua NH-L9i http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009VCAJ7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1419437419&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX200_QL40.

I got a noctua CPU cooler that is cheaper than the one you selected. Maybe check it out and see if it fits your needs?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VCAJ7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would [this](Corsair Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Aw5Cyb1PC09P1) be a good cooler to allow me to over lock my 6300?

i just bought this, will it work? http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01

make sure your fans on cpu case and gpu are clean and spinning
also make sure your voltages aren't neccesarily to high.

i am biased but you should seriously consider a corsair water cooler such as

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=psdc_3015422011_t1_B019EXSSBG

or
Noctua NH-U9S Premium Quality Quiet CPU Cooler
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TBHYYFK/ref=psdc_11036281_t3_B002VKVZ1A

Got the same CPU, it's like a bloody jet engine the stock cooler. I got a closed loop cooler, they are a bit more pricey but I like the aesthetic look of them and they're effective :)


(I got This one)


There might be cheaper ones out there

How is the NZXT Kraken compared to the Corsair H100 v2? or even just the h60?

I would add water cooling since your budget would allow it, this one for example would only add 20$ to your budget

The H60 is cheaper on amazon: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00A0HZMGA/?tag=pcp0f-20

Memoryexpress has a pricematch policy, use the amazon link to get the price down.

A lot of mid-sized towers (and specially designed compact ATX towers) support both, so I guess a large portion of it is user preference. Take for example the following compact designed case designed to fit full ATX boards:

Amazon Link

I can't really attest to the quality of this case, but just as an example, as long as you find a tower with supporting ATX board sizes, it'll work (also good to consider the size of your CPU cooler, that's why they can't get too small - in the example of this case, your current fan wouldn't get the clearance it needs, but you could go with an alternative like...

Amazon Link)

Although that might be more than you want to spend, so just check the CPU cooler clearance required in the case you get, and it should be fine!

As for the CPU, if hyperthreading isn't a big deal to you, it's totally fine - that's one of the core differences between this one and say... the i7-6700k. If you want a higher clock speed out of the box too without having to OC, that's one thing to consider. But if those aren't that important to you, I'd say your choice is a sound one (many, many people will argue for the merit of hyperthreading these days though - and I can't say they're incorrect in their reasoning). However, if you're comparing dollar-to-dollar value, invest that extra savings into your GPU.

And finally, onto your GPU, pretty solid choice. Especially if you're not considering options like the 1070 or 1080. I lean more towards GTX cards, but that's entirely my biased choice, and so I won't influence you that way. There's a number of arguments that go both ways, so I'd say for sanity sake (you could literally dig for hours on the comparisons), that you'd be safe going either route (and if DX12 is the big factor for you, AMD seems to be doing better in some games, not as good in others, and around the same in even other games, so there seems to be a LOT of variability in regards to this factor - AMD seems to be excelling better on more recent games, but it's hard to say if that will remain the trend or if it will shift).

Again, hope this was helpful :)

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478843373&sr=8-1&keywords=h60

I'm gonna get this one for myself pretty soon.

That monitor is quite enough.

Here's my suggestion for your new build:

• CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K ($340)
  
• GPU: Nvidia GeForce GTX 770 ($450)
  
• mainboard: MSI Z87-G45 ($150)
  
• cooling: Corsair H60 ($60)
  
  That's $1000 total.

Our mutual friend asked me to help you out. Sorry its kinda long but hope it helps.

General Thoughts about building your own computer:
IMO buying computer hardware is all about future proofing. If your not a hardcore enthusiast you want to buy what you are not going to need to upgrade for a long long time. For example my friend JUST upgraded his gtx8800+ to the new 780. His 8800 lasted him like 10 years. However, doing this usually means purchasing the top of the line hardware at the time which ofc is not always possible to do this with your budget. IMO If you are going to spend the money, spend a little more so that you are super happy and wont have any regrets. This is why if your budget doesnt fit a lot of people upgrade piece by piece. usually the video card is the last bit to be upgraded because they are the largest cost white being the quickest to go out of date. For example the same friend who recently upgraded to a 780 upgraded his case, cpu, motherboard, and ram 2 years ago to a decent i52500k & held off upgrading the video card till now. Also it is worth mentioning that the reason he opted for the 780 over anything else is because not only is it (arguably) the best video card it has improvements over the last generation chips. for example the 770 is just a beefier 680. The 780 runs the gk110 chip and also has larger bandwith etcetc (these things have been discussed to death on countless forums and i am just stating my opinion on it). I think that the 780 provides better future proofing and value retention.

Build Recommendations:
Now that my own general mindset has been given here are some recommendations to your build.

1. Instead of the 670 get a 770 for only a little more $ (link below)
   
   
2. You will need a larger watt power supply! i also recommend future proofing yourself with this. I personally purchased a 1200 watt corsair 4 years ago and it has lasted me through 2 builds and will last me quite a few more. Computer Cases follow this principle as well - they will last you numerous builds so get one that can scale with you. But i would recommend at least a 700w power supply. I believe the 670 requires around a 600w anyways. and you always want to have more than less.
   
   
3. Please also do not get home premium get at least Pro. Also you can probably download a cracked version of ultimate for free and can save some money this way. (cough ask someone for a copy cough).
   
   
4. A common thing first time builders forget is also a cpu heatsink. Do not use the stock one that comes with your cpu. i would recommend the Corsair h60 an all in one easy watercooling solution which i myself use. Easily allows you to overclock without all the hard work and money for conventional watercooling - and not a whole lot more expensive than the better aircooling solutions that i would recommend you get (2nd link below. its newer version than the one i have)
   
   
5. Last and least important. I would recommend getting a larger SSD. It is a pain in the ass not having enough storage for typical daily use, but maybe thats just me because i set all my default download locations to the desktop and i often find myself running out of space on my 256gb ssd. You can double the capacity of the crucial m4 for only another $20. Remember that windows will be about 30gb. and your ssd will only really be 59 gb.
   
   Company Opinions
   I hate Newegg and have had nothing but crappy experiences with them. I only purchase from them if absolutely necessary and cross my fingers. I almost buy exclusively from Amazon now as i have amazon prime and amazons customer service is unparalleled. I also usually get bad cases of buyer remorse and amazons no quibbles 30 day return with no restocking fee is awesome. + free shipping with prime.
   
   As for choice of mouse and keyboard im a razer fan =P.
   
   Final Remark:
   This is probably going to have you go over budget. I would recommend doing a piece by piece upgrade as you get the funds instead of compromising. At the end of the day do what you personally will be happy with and that wont give you regrets. A good friend of mine thinks way different from me about choosing of hardware and that is why i want to give you background on my thinking. If you have any questions feel free =].
   
   http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-SuperClocked-Graphics-02G-P4-2774-KR/dp/B00CZIQXBA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373609361&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+770+acx
   
   http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373610614&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair+h60

Corsair CW-9060007-WW Hydro Series High Performance Liquid CPU Cooler H60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0HZMGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ALn9AbM6HBWWF

Why would anyone buy your cooler when they can get it on amazon for the exact same price?

> I can also testify that the 212 EVO is an absolute pain in the ass to install and am convinced that is why it's so cheap. probably spent 1/2 the build time just making sure I got it seated properly. Works like a charm though.

Next time give one of the simple Corsair liquid coolers a shot. Got one a few weeks ago and it was my first time installing an after-market CPU cooler and it wasn't too bad at all.

I highly recommend a closed loop CPU cooler like this one

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A0HZMGA?keywords=cpu%20cooler%20liquid&qid=1452812712&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3

It's a bit more expensive, but worth it.

Professional PC builder/technician here. I monitor the market's prices all day, every day.

If you want a temporary and affordable upgrade, your motherboard is running on the AM2 socket. Check your motherboard's model number (Usually in between the PCI slots) and look up CPU compatibility. Assuming you're not running some crappy E-Machine, your socket shouldn't be integrated, and you can pick up something like an AMD Athlon X4 and have a significant boost in power.

If you're looking to fully upgrade, pick up an LGA1150 motherboard. If you want quality and don't want to completely break your bank, go with MSI. They're an awesome mix between affordability and features. For a processor, most i3s on that socket are pretty damn powerful, and cheap. 120 bucks will buy you enough power to do -anything- that 450 you have there will need. If you want long-term, pick up an i5, about 220 bucks will take you miles away from the CPU you have now. The i7 is endgame, it's worth it if you can afford it, but not necessary by any means.

Do not waste your time picking up any motherboard older than an LGA1150. They're the same price as the older LGA1155s, unless you're buying used. Don't buy used mobos, more often than not you'll regret it.

The last thing to consider is your power supply. You're making a serious upgrade with a new processor and mobo, and you need to take power into consideration. Since you seen new to this, Let's make it simple. Google "Power Supply Wattage Calculator" and type in your specs. Go 150 watts above that, spend a lot of money on it and get something nice. Your PSU is your computer's heatbeat, you don't want it failing and killing everything else you have. Buy a nice one the first time, and it will last years and years. Try and save 25 bucks by going off-brand and lower watt, suffer possible thousands of dollars in damage depending on what you have in there.

Edit: I forgot to mention, You're going to be stepping up from DDR2 to DDR3 ram. Don't go too crazy on ram, it's all pretty similar on the base levels. Corsair makes some nice sticks, Patriot does fine and affordable but you really need to look up compatibility with it, and Crucial makes some nice stuff that's affordable. If I were to build a low level affordable PC today, my baseline would sit here:

CPU: http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i3-4130-FCLGA-Processor-BX80646I34130/dp/B00EUUKVXM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397850929&sr=8-1&keywords=i3

Mobo: http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-Motherboards-B85-G41-MATE/dp/B00D12OASW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851005&sr=1-2&keywords=lga1150

RAM: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1333MHz-KHX1333C9D3B1K2-8G/dp/B004DDI0IE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851050&sr=1-1&keywords=DDR3+RAM

PSU: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Bronze-Certified-Supply/dp/B008RJZQSW/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851110&sr=1-2&keywords=power+supply

For the sake of maintaining a cheap build, you can use the heatsink that comes with the processor. If you're feeling moderately fancy, just grab something cheap like this, they work great.
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1397851211&sr=1-1&keywords=LGA+1150+heatsink

Re-use the optical drive from your old PC, re-use the fans. If you need cables, use monoprice.com

If you plan on gaming with that machine, the best thing to do is sink almost all of your money into a graphics card. That CPU can still hold its weight. Maybe get an nvidia gtx 1070 (<$400) or an AMD rx 480(<$250)(two top of the line cards right now). If you go with the RX 480, then I would suggest spending the rest of your money on an SSD. You can get a 500GB ssd for roughly $150 (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-2-5-Inch-MZ-75E500B/dp/B00OBRE5UE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473798740&sr=1-1&keywords=500gb+ssd). Do this, and you will feel a large performance increase! Also, your processor is overclockable. If I were you , I would get an after market CPU cooler and overclock it to get a little bit more performance out of it. Some like this (https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473798818&sr=1-2&keywords=hyper+212+evo)


To recap

Upgrade plan one:

Nvidia GTX 1070 ($400) (More powerful than the rx 480, should run all titles close to MAX)

256gb SSD ($100)



Upgrade Plan two:

RX 480 ($250) (Pretty strong GPU, should run all titles no problem with some settings needing to be turned down)

500gb SSD($150)

Hyper T4 CPU cooler ($40) - only get this if you want to overclock your CPU which you definitely should!

You look good to go man. Only thing I would add is that you have an unlocked CPU in your partpicker. Why not overclock? Get a cooler for that sucker and send it to the moon.

here's my cooler for my 4690k cheap, quiet and efficient.

This might be a good fit for your friend.

Cooler Master Hyper RR-T4-18PK-R1 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes, INTEL/AMD with AM4 Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_idVQAbPXWGWFA

This should fit http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Contact-Heatpipes-RR-T4-18PK-R1/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451950902&sr=8-1&keywords=hyper+t4

My friend has it and has average temps, it also works on AM3+ and all LGA sockets

Noctua cpu coolers are pretty much worth every penny, but for budget:

Cooler Master Hyper T4 CPU Cooler with 4 Direct Contact Heatpipes RR-T4-18PK-R1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BSKY1M4/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_k30avb0PCJ72P

I have a heat issue. Build specs:

• MSI 970 GAMING ATX AMD Motherboard
  
• Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz
  
• EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0
  
• AMD FD8350FRHKBOX FX-8350 Processor
  
• Corsair CS Series 750 Watt ATX CS750M
  
• Cooler Master Hyper T2
  
  Idle temperatures were 44° C with the stock cooler so I replaced it with the T2. The case purchased didn't allow a T4 to fit in it - it was about half an inch too high.
  
  With the T2 idle temperatures dropped to 26° C while the cores are running @ 1400 Mhz.
  
  No overclocking has been left in place; it was accidentally enabled for a short period. However, when my son starts playing games he finds himself at 76° C and the thermal protection kicks in, locking the box up.
  
  I made sure to remove the plastic on the bottom of the T2, where contact is made between the cooler pipes and the CPU. I made sure to evenly spread the thermal paste over the chip. I've ensured that the cooler is tightly clamped to the CPU.
  
  Now this board has an "OC Genie" and he did activate it, however, I uninstalled the software overclocker (MSI Command Center) and turned off the OC Genie in the BIOS. I reset the power supply levels to default, as well as anything else I could find in the BIOS. (I don't do overclocking at this point in my life. If I want a 5% boost in speed, I pay for it.)
  
  There are two fans on the case, one on the front and one on the back. The computer is currently in a corner area with little to no ventilation, so that's the next thing we're changing. However, I thought it might be useful to ask for advice from all of you.
  
  Any advice on what I can do to help cool this thing? I know AMDs tend to run much hotter than Intels, but this seems ridiculous. In general I see acceptable ranges of 20° C to 60° C. Would you guys agree that's an acceptable range?
  
  If necessary we can buy a new case and put the T4, or whatever recommended cooler is there, on the PC.
  
  Thanks.
  

This is your problem. Get an aftermarket on it, or turn off the preset overclock. I've used one before, but my hand-made 4.4ghz-4690k is stable as all hell and only goes up to the mid 80's. I use one of these. Understand these are much larger than stock so make sure your case has space.

If you know how to OC the 3600 is likely the way to go.

3600x comes with a better stock cooler if that's a consideration but you'd likely be better off still getting the 3600 and using the extra money on a Noctua if you don't already have a CPU cooler.

Overall the 3600x is clocked at about 3% performance above the 3600 and comes in at 3.8-4.4 GHZ as opposed to 3.6-4.2GHZ on the 3600, but the TDP for the 3600 is 65 Watts where as the 3600x is 95 watts.

I've gone back and forth about this myself but I finally settled on the 3600.

The CPU isn't loud, only the CPU cooler, which can be replaced independently of the CPU for pretty cheap. There are tons of options, but maybe look at the Noctua NH-U12S. Only upgrade the CPU itself when you upgrade the motherboard.

Most modern coolers work on a variety of motherboard sockets, just make sure to get one that supports your current CPU socket and the current generation of CPU sockets and you should be fine.

Edit: Actually with the Cryorig H7 you can just replace the fan with a quiet 120mm Noctua fan.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThermalRight-True-Spirit-140-Direct/dp/B01MQCK1PJ

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ARCTIC-Freezer-eSports-DUO-Configuration/dp/B07MC8CRVZ

I'm sure I'm missing some, as a 'murrican, but all of those will do the job well. The Thermalright is probably the best cooler of them for overclocking, the Noctua a bit more convenient (in terms of packaging, and they usually include a few fan accessories) and very close, while the Arctic Cooling one is a value option that will get the job done. If you're not planning on overclocking, the cheaper Arctic Cooling one will be every bit as good as either of the other two (and if you don't like the aesthetics, they sell a few different variants that are mainly different in colors).

I think a HEDT 5th gen should be compatible out of the box, but before you order, do verify that the cooler claims compatibility with your socket.

Thanks for your input, I haven't decided on Intel or AMD, I think i'm either going to go with the i7 8700k or R7 2700x. The SSD was recommended by another Reddit user, this is what they said:

> The Inland SSD is a super affordable, super quality choice. It's not 860 Evo, but it gets the job done incredibly well for its price. And the P300 HDD is great. Barracudas tend to be pretty noisy under load. Toshiba's P300 drives are rebranded Hitachi drives, so you're getting the best on the market.

They also recommended the following coolers:

> Macho Rev. B or the H5 Universal.

Logical increments suggests the following:

Noctua NH-U12S

Noctua NH-U14S

be quiet! BK021 Dark Rock 4 CPU Cooler Fan Extremely High Cooling Performance 135mm (200W TDP)

Do you have any suggestions?

​

​

I have a Noctua nh-u12s and am very pleased with it. The fan rarely if ever reaches top speeds, and is nearly silent anyways. Keeps my 2600x cool as well, and is much quieter than the stock cooler (which wasn’t itself bad or anything, but I wanted something super quiet).

If you change your MOBO you don't need a new license but you do need to get on the phone or use their automated system and ask them to re-activate it (assuming you're using your old HD).

With an i7, interest in OC, you should get a z170 class board. I'm no expert on OC's but depending on the degree of OC, you may not even need a new heatsink. If you want an easy upgrade, the NH-U12S doesn't require all the space of the liquid cooling systems.

https://www.amazon.com/noctua-NH-U12S-Noctua-CPU-Cooler/dp/B00C9EYVGY

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
Motherboard | Asus Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $153.89 @ B&H
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $194.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $348.88
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-13 14:53 EST-0500 |

As for RAM, I assumed you still wanted 32 GB for some reason, but if you decide 16GB is enough, you could save a solid $100

If you need to try an alternative air cooler, this is a solid choice:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-U12S-Premium-Cooler-NF-F12/dp/B00C9EYVGY/

If you want a new AIO, I would suggest this:

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-H100i-PLATINUM-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B07JWB5BSN/

These are just suggestions for new units, you can try as others have suggested getting the manufacturer to have them replace your unit under warranty.

Since I only had a GTX950, I was only using the pre-mounted fans.

I have this Noctua CPU cooler and based on the quality of the fan, I've ordered 2x 140mm Noctua fans to add to the front (removing the included one) and a 120mm fan to replace the included one as well.

I will probably put the mesh tops on tonight, to open up the top (was using the solid toppers), but later when I remove the included fans, I may shift them to shoot straight up and out at the lowest setting.

Noctua is probably the best for silence.

NF-F12

NF-A14

They'll provide great cooling at very low RPMs, which render them virtually inaudible.

Edit: I can't provide any input into corsairs fans as i don't own them, but after owning [noctuas] for a while, the color scheme doesn't bother me one bit when i get confused if my system is even powered on :p. Gotta get close and listen for the harddisk.

I've still got the nocuta fans I purchased in 2010 in my main rig. They never get noisy over time, and while are the definition of "not cheap" are also the prime example of "buy a good tool once"

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-Premium-Cooling/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1X0E4S87BX5XK&keywords=noctua+140mm&qid=1568256975&sprefix=noctua+%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-3

As u/OC2k16 said I use an aftermarket CPU cooler.

Started with a Huge Zalman air cooler: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zalman-Heatsink-135mm-CNPS9900-Blue/dp/B0046Y79HS

I then upgraded/sidegraded (similar temps, quieter) to a NZXT Kraken https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Computers-Accessories/NZXT-X41-140mm-Kraken-Water-Cooler/B00MA5V72I/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423661&sr=1-1&keywords=kraken+x41

I can't remember the exact thermal paste, it may be MX2. Currently running at around 37c with chrome, steam spotify etc running. Under full load it doesn't go above 50c.

Also, your case/cooler fans make a huge difference. I run 6x 140mm Noctua fans:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NF-A14-PWM-case-fan/dp/B00CP6QLY6/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423889&sr=1-6&keywords=noctua

2x on the radiator in push pull, 1 on roof, one on base and 2 in my intake. Case fans are all controlled by a Bitfenix Recon fan controller, running 3rd party controller software called Phoebetria. PC is silent when not under load.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BitFenix-Recon-controllers-Active-Sensor/dp/B008BZTL38/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491423992&sr=1-1&keywords=bitfenix+recon

I have all of this inside a Fractal Design R4 case. Amazing fan locations, space, cable management and it has dampening material to reduce noise.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fractal-Design-Define-Case-Computer/dp/B009XLMYJC/ref=sr_1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1491424131&sr=1-1&keywords=R4

Case shot: http://imgur.com/cJcVlO7

Controller : http://imgur.com/5hmQidi

Brown, $21. Black $24. Does math work differently where you're from?

I adjusted the build a bit to fit my needs a bit more, what do you say:

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K | EUR 258,00 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170-HD3P | EUR 111,06 @ Amazon.de
Memory | G.Skill 16GB DDR4 3000 (16 GB) | EUR 80,59 @ Amazon.de
Storage | WD 1TB Blue (1 TB) | EUR 49,26 @ Amazon.de
SSD | OCZ Trion 150 (256 GB) | EUR 61,53 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 1070 | EUR 468,00 @ Mindfactory
Case | Nanoxia Deep Silence 3 | EUR 69,90 @ Cyberport
Power Supply | Coolermaster G550M (550 W) | EUR 72,61 @ Amazon.de
CPU Cooler | Dark Rock Pro 3 | EUR 76,55 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €1258.48
| Generated by pc-kombo 20.07.2016 |

Those high-budget open a lot of possibilities. But they also invite to add in stuff that is not fully needed. If you reduce that stuff a bit, you can without a problem go to the X99 platform. With a 5820K, this would give you two additional cores which might help you with calculations, streaming, editing and rendering. Note however that in most games there is no big advantage over the 6700K.

Let's look at that:

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5820K | EUR 381,00 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | MSI SLI Plus | EUR 220,89 @ Amazon.de
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 (32 GB) | EUR 184,13 @ Cyberport
Storage | WD 6TB Blue (6 TB) | EUR 219,90 @ Caseking
SSD | SanDisk Ultra II 960 (1 TB) | EUR 219,00 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 1080 | EUR 789,00 @ Mindfactory
Case | Fractal Design R5 | EUR 104,90 @ Cyberport
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 650 (650 W) | EUR 103,53 @ Amazon.de
CPU Cooler | Dark Rock Pro 3 | EUR 75,16 @ Amazon.de
Operating System | Windows 7 | EUR 29,95 @ mysoftware
| Total | €2342.43
| Generated by pc-kombo 29.05.2016 |

• 5820K + X99 mainboard
  
• You can still double the ram if you profit from more than 32
  
• Good mid-ATX tower instead of the most likely unnecessary Full-ATX
  
• PSU with sound wattage (only go to a bigger one if you are set on using SLI later – the mainboard would already support that)
  
• Windows 7 can still be upgraded to Windows 10
  
  Apart from the peripherals I left out the 950 Pro, it is of course possible to add it in if you want to have it. For the Sound Card, that I'D only buy if you need it for your recordings.

Yeah I believe that H7 would be a step to right direction, but honestly I would go with somethin like this
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HPX7J4K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494584874&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=be+quiet+dark+rock+pro+3&dpPl=1&dpID=41f-YJuctCL&ref=plSrch

They are really expensive, that is true, but they pack serious cooling power. You have quaranteed silent operation and possibility of overclocking as much as you want. These two coolers THE best ones around beating all of the $150 aios too. It's just cool to have that I7 running over 5ghz with good temps and silently. But yeah that cryorig is surely going to let you oc till something like 4,6ghz still staying reasonably quiet. Choise is yours.

Your pc just literally has the best components available, I feel like it would deserve good cooler to keep it cozy;)

Ps funny thing about those noctua fans is that they alone cost 20 bucks a piece, and are seriously awesome fans, quiet, efficient and long lasting, I'm running two of the indusrial versions on my build

without ref link

If you have a case big enough and proper airflow, I would recommend the Be Quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 over any AIO cpu cooler. It will be quieter, and should keep your CPU cooler under OC.

i'd go for the i5 9600k with a nice mobo around $150 and the nh-d15 cooler by noctua

as of this moment the i5 9600k is on a discount on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-9600K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B07HHLX1R8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2RILWPOE09YIZ&keywords=i5+9600k&qid=1566497435&s=gateway&sprefix=i5+9%2Caps%2C490&sr=8-1

cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noctua+dh&qid=1566497585&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and decent mobo: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-MPG-Z390-LGA1151-Motherboard/dp/B07HMG1XP7/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=msi+mpg+z390&qid=1566497609&s=gateway&sr=8-4

everything for $450!

(ignore this if your getting the mobo i linked) make sure the mobo you get is one of the z390's so you can OC that bad boy and get even more performance, and if you get the nh-d15 you'll be able to hit a nice OC while keeping temps low

That's almost the same build as I have! Minus the case and the cpu cooler. The cooler you have seems like it'd work well, but if you ever have any inclination to get a different one I could not recommend this one more! http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7UZMAK/?tag=httpwwwtechsp-20 A bit pricey but I can't use anything else now, things a beast!
Great build you made man!

This is the wrong take, OP didn't ask for best bang for the buck PC, he asked for the best PC.

Cooler: Air is usually cooler and quieter than AIOs, in your machine you want the noctua nh-d15 though.

Your memory is not the best it can be for Ryzen (you want 3200c14 or 3600c16). Remember you have 4 DIMM slots, you can go 4x8 if you want, but I don't think they are cheaper than the 2x16 kits.

3600c16

or

3200c14

I personally have the latter one, Samsung b-die for good overclocking potential.

Storage: Don't put mechanical in this build for the love of god. Your "boot drive" is fine w/ the 860 evo, consider the m.2 version for slight (and I mean slight) performance gains and less wires:

also consider it's bigger brother the 970 Evo

For your "data drive", get a 2tb mx500, If you buy a mechanical drive for this build you will be banned :).

The video card situation is a weird one right now. nVidia keeps the good bins of their cards and sells the rest to AIBs. If you want the best 2080ti, you want the founders edition

But nVidia has probably the worst customer service, and 3rd party cards offer better cooling. It's a decision that's up to you. I personally went with a Founders Edition card for my build (2080 Super though).

Get an 80+ platinum power supply

This is a hot take, but consider a wireless mouse. The offerings today have no lag and gaming without cable drag is fantastic. Some suggestions:
Logitech G Pro Wireless


Logitech G703

The NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers available

If your budget is strict, the NH-D14 is nearly as good.

If you're serious about the black/white theme, Phanteks makes a decent unit.

If you want to consider an AIO, the Corsair H80i is mostly black with RGB lighting.

I'd say a Noctua air cooler would be great to cool and minimally overclock the i7. If you plan to seriously overclock it, get liquid cooler to get that extra performance boost whenever you are using video editing software.

PS You don't need an extremely expensive motherboard either unless you need any specific features. Something like this will do for a standard user. Even cheaper ($150) at Microcenter if you have one nearby. 750W is suitable for your build. 850W would be ideal if you planned on getting another GPU to SLI them

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noctua+cooler&qid=1564098233&s=gateway&sr=8-4

For cooling, if you're going with an air cooler, you can get the Noctua NH-D15 for about 90$, which is pretty much the best air cooler on the market. But with the Zen 2 chips really not running that hot, you can go a step down and get a decent cooler like CoolerMaster's Hyper 212 RGB at 40$ish, or if you still want closed-loop liquid cooling, you can probably get away with something like the Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120L RGB AIO at around 60$.

Links:

Noctua NH-D15 SE-AM4: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=noctua+nh-d15+se-am4&qid=1563487740&s=gateway&sr=8-4

CM Hyper 212 RGB: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/hHDJ7P/cooler-master-hyper-212-rgb-black-edition-573-cfm-cpu-cooler-rr-212s-20pc-r1

CM MasterLiquid ML120L: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3P2rxr/cooler-master-masterliquid-ml120l-rgb-667-cfm-liquid-cpu-cooler-mlw-d12m-a20pc-r1

​

For the RAM, looking around it seems like a lot of the good kits are currently sold out, which makes sense with everyone building their systems with the new Zen 2 CPUs.The one good kit I've found is this one: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yCVBD3/gskill-tridentz-series-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c15d-16gtz

It's slightly more expensive at 172$, but 3600Mhz at CAS Latency 15 means it's definitely using Samsung B-Die, which is known to overclock very well with Ryzen, meaning you could easily tighten the timings on it considerably.You could also go with lower-clocked memory that is still Samsung B-Die (like https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gT38TW/gskill-tridentz-rgb-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3200-memory-f4-3200c14d-16gtzr) and overclock it to 3600, but that requires much more fiddling with the BIOS and memory training, may not work for all memory sticks, and honestly the price difference isn't worth it in my opinion.

Here is what I built last month.


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $369.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i PRO 75.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | ASRock - Z370M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $126.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $142.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo EVOLV ITX TG (Black) Mini ITX Desktop Case | $86.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic - FOCUS Gold 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $78.20 @ B&H
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $94.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1209.81
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1159.81
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-10-17 09:12 EDT-0400 |


I originally had the Hyper 212 EVO just as you do on your list but found it to not be sufficient enough for the 8700K, especially if you overclock it (otherwise just get the 8700). You can get an NH-D15 or something similar from CRYORIG or be quiet! but they'll be bulky and make getting in to replace RAM or do other things more difficult, as you will most likely have to take off the cooler to get to your components. I found the H100i Pro from Corsair to be easy to install and it makes the inside look much more appealing than having a huge heatsink in the middle of everything. This was my first time using water cooling and it being an AIO, made everything hassle free and much easier to install than the Hyper 212 EVO, whose brackets make it a pain sometimes to install. I also like that using the iCUE software, you can have the H100i PRO change color according to its temperature, so it makes monitoring temps during games easy, as you can just look at the color of the AIO and you know if it is staying cool or hot. Lastly, and most importantly, the temps are much lower using it than the Hyper 212 EVO so if you have the extra money, you might want to go that route as it has many advantages.

This is a D15.

It's a dual tower, dual fan air cooler. Best on the market.

Well if you're going to try and overclock it i'd get noctua NH-D15 it's one of the best performing air coolers out there.

Not sure if this is worth it but this looks like what im going with.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B06XKSPXHV/ref=sr_1_17_olp?fst=as%3Aoff&m=AUJBRIGYRJ3Q8&pf_rd_i=8929975011&pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_p=f5525b9e-c607-442a-a94f-3d0d79a6f4e5&pf_rd_r=FZCH031AJRQ2YD04D7ZJ&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&qid=1558112113&rnid=8929975011&s=warehouse-deals&sr=1-17&condition=used

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-listing/B079JSDDTC/ref=sr_1_5_olp?fst=as%3Aoff&m=AUJBRIGYRJ3Q8&pf_rd_i=8929975011&pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_p=f5525b9e-c607-442a-a94f-3d0d79a6f4e5&pf_rd_r=5050AYHDQT57K03E0ZSB&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&qid=1558112154&rnid=8929975011&s=warehouse-deals&sr=1-5&condition=used

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?fst=as%3Aoff&m=AUJBRIGYRJ3Q8&pf_rd_i=8929975011&pf_rd_m=A1IM4EOPHS76S7&pf_rd_p=f5525b9e-c607-442a-a94f-3d0d79a6f4e5&pf_rd_r=ET2060Y4BTW6KD6TVE51&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&qid=1558112194&rnid=8929975011&s=warehouse-deals&sr=1-

Air cooled stuff then but keep in mind it would be good to blow it out every once in a while with an air can to clear that dust out, as that's a good thing to do even if you own a console (or other electronics, I blow my monitor vents every so often too for example) keeps things cool and whatnot. Noctua this is by a quick search really good but expensive otherwise the Evo 212 is good too and way cheaper.

Have this cooler

Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans

It rated really well

I would suggest an air cooler instead of an AIO, something like a Noctua NH-D15 performs pretty well.

Also, if you want to avoid getting an aftermarket CPU cooler, you should consider the Ryzen line of processors (like the Ryzen 7 2700X) their stock coolers are pretty good, and can even handle the processors OC'ed

Bought this one 2 weeks ago https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00L7UZMAK?psc=1

I was quite surprised by how big CPU cooler are now (was running on water)!

See if you can get 10 more dollars

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=noctua+cpu+cooler+black&qid=1555698751&s=gateway&sr=8-5

You won't be able to overclock with that motherboard you picked. You need a p67/z68 mobo like this.

You'll probably want an aftermarket CPU cooler, so I suggest this

For the SSD I suggest you get this

You picked a 5400RPM HDD, you want a 7200RPM like this if you need to store lots of files like pictures, movies, etc then get 1 7200rpm and 1 5400rpm.

Personally I'd go with a more cost effective SLI/Crossfire solution for your video card, the 580 is pretty bad when it comes to price/performance. You can get two 570's/6950's and it will cost about the same, if not less, and you will get much more performance.

Case is up to you, but I suggest something like the HAF912

And finally, your power supply is a bit overkill. At most, 750W is what you need if you take my advice and sli/crossfire 570s/6950s.

Wow, thanks a lot for that :) I'll be awaiting your review haha. Any major difference in this or this? I am planning on over clocking.

Hey! Very nice build, congrats!

Also, you should have a look at the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus. I am building a setup similar to yours and for all your needs it will work flawlessly. Although the Liquid Coolers are also very attractive but there are always the inherent risks - such as the tube splitting and the liquid leaking, frying your beloved components in the process.

It could be a poor seal between the heatsink and CPU which would be alleviated by remounting the heatsink, although you would need to reapply some Thermal Compound. I would certainly consider a step up to the Cooler Master Hyper 212+, it is only $20 and will be a huge improvement.

> It can't be that much worse, can it?

It has far less overclocking headroom. The 960T should get to 4GHz easily and you also might be able to unlock it to a hex core CPU. Personally, I wouldn't get the 925.

I also wouldn't grab that mobo. This Gigabyte has better power phases for overclocking and has more upgrade room. It even has a combo with the FX-4100. Alternatively, this Asus and this ASRock are around the same price, but have more upgrade room, but fewer VRMs than the Gigabyte.

There's no reason not to get the Hyper 212+ when it's $21 at Amazon. You'll have a cooler running computer and be able to overclock further with it.

Personally, I don't care for single sticks of RAM. I'd spend $8 more and get this 8GB Kingston kit. If you can't afford it, get this G.Skill stick.

Depending on what you mean by 'media' that 2500K is pretty overkill. You can get nearly identical gaming performance from the significantly less expensive i3-2100.

I wouldn't call that Zalman cooler superfluous, but I wouldn't pick it over the favored 212+ unless you have solid evidence showing how quiet it is. You should see what sites like SilentPCreview and Guru3D consider the leaders in quiet cooling at the moment.

You can definitely save a good deal of money with any one of these ASRock micro ATX motherboards. That Asus is enormously more expensive than you need.

The GTX 560TI is a good choice. You should consider this MSI twin frozr 6950 2GB card for only ten bucks more. It is the more powerful card in nearly every case. MSI also makes some of the coolest cards around, which is of primary importance for a microATX build like this one.

You probably don't need all 16 GB of that RAM. You should stick with this set instead.

You also won't need that 650W power supply. With a single mid-range GPU, at most you'll need is 500W. I would recommend finding a well reviewed, modular unit around 500W instead.

Everything is compatible. I don't know much about that motherboard but it is gigabyte so that's respectable. The only thing you need to get is a cpu cooler. the cooler master 212 plus it the most popular around these parts.

Are you planning on overclocking? If so, you should pick up a better CPU cooler. Many people around here like the Hyper 212+. For $20, you can get a 300-1200 mhz increase in your CPU speed.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20

Here's a possible build for your budget:
i5-2500K, P8Z78-VLX, G.Skill, HAF912, HD6870, F3-1TB, H212+, OCZ-ZS for ~£650
You can save money with a cheaper case and with 4GB of ram instead of 8GB.
If you're not going to overclock, remove the cpu cooler from the list and get an i5-2400 instead of the 2500K.
These modifications can lower the price of the components down to ~£570 with a minimal loss in performance.

If you're going with the 570, you might wana look into gtx 560 ti 448 core cards. One at ncix for $280. 560 448 is supposed to have similar performance as the 570.

Edit: noticed on another thread you can get the cooler for $20 at amazon

You say you're using a Storm Scout? A Hyper 212+ will fit in that case just fine:

http://i.imgur.com/c62QS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/OPeWZ.jpg


Other than that, if you're looking for a low profile cooler for the same or less than the cost of the Hyper 212+, the Arctic Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 or Cooler Master Hyper TX3 should be fine. But considering the Hyper 212+ fits in the Scout, and it only costs $26 on Amazon, I'd say that's your best option.

If you're willing to pay 25 shipped for it, might as well just get it for $28, brand new

If it wasn't for those raptors you'd be able to squeak by with a considerably less beefy power supply, but you'll probably be looking at this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371045

and the r/buildapc favorite

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/

Edit: If you're feeling adventurous, you can oil the fan in your power supply:

http://www.dansdata.com/fanmaint.htm

I suggest using the mineral oil mentioned in the article. When you open a power supply though you need to be EXTREMELY careful, the big capacitors in a power supply hold a charge for a long time and can shock the life out of you.

I would NEVER use the stock fan. Pick up the cooler master 212, which is great for overclocking, inexpensive and in general just an awesome addon to your computer.

you've got a good start, there are a couple of easy upgrades you could make to optimize your build.

you can upgrade your hard drive to a samsung f3 1TB for $5, and you could upgrade your graphics card to a GTX 560 for $20. both of those upgrades are worth it, and neither costs alot.

if you're planning on overclocking your 2500K, i would definitely add a CPU cooler like the Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus. even if you're not overclocking, it's a good upgrade to keep your system's temperature down.

Don't forget to get a optical drive, especially if you plan on installing your OS from a disc. this is a cheap read/write drive, however if you want to play blu-rays; you'll need something like this. but you won't be able to burn discs with that drive.

if you're looking to save some money, you won't need 8GB of RAM unless you plan on dealing with large/complex files. 4GB is plenty for gaming. if you're going to be doing heavy video/photo/vector/3D editing, then 8GB is worth it. However; RAM is cheap right now; 8GB is no longer unreasonable for average users.

If you want to connect to a wireless connection, you'll need an adapter

don't forget your peripherals! unless you already own them, you'll need a keyboard, mouse and monitor.

you'll also need an OS; newegg carries all versions of windows 7. they have a good deal on 64-bit home premium OEM. I don't recommend getting a 32-bit operating system, 64-bit systems can emulate a 32-bit OS to run any 32-bit applications you may need. it is possible to install apple software, but it is a legal gray area. consult /r/hackintosh for more information.

have fun building, let me know how it goes!

What case do you have? If it is a large enough case, I would swap out that CPU cooler to something like the Hyper 212+ It'll save money and also perform a bit better.

Motherboard: That will work just fine. I believe the quote you listed is telling you to buy an add-on card which connects to your motherboard through a PCI slot and gives you extra USB ports like this. That mothboard has 4 USB 2.0 ports and 2 USB 3.0 ports and your case has two front panel USB ports. This brigns your total USB ports up to 8. If you need more than 8 then you can buy an add-on card or back plate that attaches to the USB connections on the motherboard. The latter looks like this. The black thing obviously goes to the motherboard.

CPU: Depending on how much video editing you do you might be able to drop down to the 2500K. The 2600K will be better for video editing, but if you really need to save money and don't edit enough to justify the price increase then you can get the 2500K.

GPU: The 570 is pretty good and you would want to get an EVGA card because they have a lifetime warranty. You can also get the 6950 which is slightly worse (maybe 10% less FPS) but costs about $80 less.

Hard drive: Switch to the Samsung Spinpoint F3. It's cheaper, faster (the 6 Gb/s on the WD is crap, HDD can't even get up to 3 Gb/s), and more reliable. If you have extra money then get an SSD. One of the best upgrades you can give your computer. They are crazy fast

Everything else looks good. Make sure to get an aftermarket CPU cooler if you overclock. The Cooler Master Hyper 212+ is great.

I've got my Q6600 running at 50c max even in Bad Company 2 with a Hyper 212+ http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309753465&sr=8-1
and 2 of these in a push pull http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Sleeve-Bearing-blades-FN121/dp/B000C1DXLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309753490&sr=8-1
I would actually get one of those fans to act as a rear exhaust also.

PC Part Picker should do everything for you. They give you the option to filter by compatibility with the parts you already selected.

Since you're using an i5, any motherboard with an LGA1155 socket will be compatible. You should go for one with a p67 chipset.

This is a pretty popular CPU cooler.

your motherboard would allow sli, but i dont know if your psu could handle it.

your case isnt the problem with your temps, its your cooler.

if youre going to spend that much on a cooler, buy this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018

its basically the best on the market.

but you could get by on a lot less if you wanted to.

something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1303803446&sr=8-1

would be a lot better than stock but for less money than the noctua.

theres obviously a ton of options in between there as well.

$25 will get you this -- Mine easily keeps my 2500k under 50C even at 24/7 max load and 30-35 idle. From what I've seen/heard, you can't really do much better without spending close to $100, and you really don't need more unless you're trying to overclock past about 4.5GHz.

What kind of heatsink and fan are on the CPU?

I have the same CPU - the stock heatsink and fan ended up getting really loud on me, but this fixed it.

Looks pretty good to me. The only thing you really need to change is the RAM. What you have selected is 1.65V which Sandy Bridge doesn't like. Here's some cheaper similarly performing 1.5V RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820226191

Also since you have the 2500K I'm guessing you're gonna OC, so you should tack on a 212 for cooling: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?tag=pcpapi-20

Also look to raserei's post for more suggestions. The only thing I disagree with is waiting for Ivy Bridge. Intel has been delaying the hell of out it for a while now. Also the Z68 mobo you have is cheap enough so downgrading to a P67 probably wouldn't be worth it.

Nice build.

He could always swap the CPU for the $110 FX-4100 and overclock the shit out of it. The compatible mobo would be $60. He could make that difference by not getting the DVD drive and just getting one later. He can then OC the FX-4100 quite far with the Hyper 212 and call it a day for a total of about $30 more at $815.

Hell, if he was really serious and wanted to destroy pretty much any game in existence, he'd drop the 6870 and pick up two HIS 6850's for $100 more (he'd have to grab this). He could make up that $100 difference by pirating windows (don't pretend nobody here does that) and then he'd be playing any game at ultra settings with no questions asked.

The best bang for the buck seems to be the Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G1YPH0/?t=slickdeals&ascsubtag=qCEoQkCwEeO95-ZWJb0cRAaGt7_0HZl3_0_0_0 The Hyper 212 Plus is on sale for $17 after mail in rebate. Not going to get anything that good for that cheap anywhere else.

...but I'd still get the EVO.

pcpartpicker.com

So if you don't want to overclock, you can go with a much cheaper mobo. Sorry, no suggestions from me. I didn't research in non-OC parts.

If you want the hyper 101, you want the I version:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002G1YPH0&linkCode=as2&tag=logicaincrem-20

But most people reccomend the 212evo:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002G1YPH0&linkCode=as2&tag=logicaincrem-20

It seems that the 212 evo is superior for a small price increase. And the 101 you chose (the intel version) is only available from 3rd parties.

I ended up getting the Hyper 212 Plus because I read some reviews that said it was quieter than the Evo. I've never had an Evo, so I have no basis of comparison, but I just installed the Plus last night, and it was definitely quieter all day today than the stock cooler I took out of there.

On a separate but related note - I have a quad monitor setup, with 2 GPUs, 3770k, and WD Black, so my office gets pretty hot. The old fan I was using to cool the room was too loud for me to keep it on when having meetings on Skype. So I ordered a Vornado 660. On the lowest setting, it keeps me nice and cool, and is damn near silent, even from up close. So quiet in fact, that after I bought it, that's when I decided to replace the stock CPU cooler, as that was then the loudest thing in the room. So, I definitely recommend that Vornado - worth every penny.

Most of the computer noise comes from what is called the CPU "heatsink" - a small fan on top of the very small processor. It is usually a VERY good idea to replace the heatsink for various reasons, but also decreases sound issues (as the fans are better, larger, better designed structure, etc.) Heatsinks depend on some part on what type of CPU/Processor you have. This is the one I have: CPU Heatsink for AMD edit: it should be noted that the linked heatsink is compatible with a large array of CPUs, just check if yours is there! =)

Sound can also be caused by your case (vents, insulation, set up, rattling, etc.), the amount and size of the fans (larger fans are quieter - less rotations, or whatever).

Also, when installing heatsinks - or anything else - just save yourself the trouble and google an installation video on youtube.

Thoughts on [this CPU cooler] (https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-Multicompatible/dp/B002G392ZI) for an r7 1700x? Wanted something budget, compatible with am4 out of the box without needing to wait for a stupid company to ship a bracket.

Would preapplied m2 thermal paste be fine or should I buy paste to apply extra?

I use this on my FX-6350 its the Arctic Freezer 7 pro Rev2 keeps my OC'd CPU at a nice 25c and best of all it cost me $12 with prime, looks like its around 22 bucks at the moment and at that price its still pretty hard to beat.

I've had the same heatsink, it was a pain to install. They use that horrible bracket and tension design, anyways I am using this now https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Freezer-Pro-Rev-Multi-Compatible/dp/B002G392ZI just like a stock intel mount but better, easy to remove etc. quiet. no fear of fucking the mobo up from to much pressure. I hope that does work for you man good luck

Popped one of these on for $24. Seems to be OK for now!

That's basically the same build I just did for my bf. Just had a different brand of ram, went with a PNY ssd, and had the MSI 280 instead of Gigabyte. PSU was different as well but same wattage so all's good. The mobo seems good so far, haven't had any issues with anything.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G392ZI/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Used that cooler and it seems to be doing a decent job and it's quiet. Bit confusing on the install but overall I'm pretty happy with it.

H100i should be good, but you need to make sure you can fit it on your case.

http://www.amazon.de/gp/help/customer/display.html/?nodeId=505554

http://www.amazon.de/Noctua-NH-D14-LGA1366-LGA1156-LGA1155/dp/B002VKVZ1A

Amazon germany will deliver to Belgium for free for orders of 30 euros.

Keep in mind that what you have is essentially a piledriver based CPU that has been overclocked to insane speeds and as such it will consume lots of power and release lots of heat. Generally the CPU throttles at 60-65 degrees and seeing as you are already hitting those and more I would be worried.

Try to do some management to improve airflow as well. At full load that GPU + CPU will be like an ezbake oven in your case.

Hmm. Good to know.
Updated parts list:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $197.88 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard | $81.98 @ Newegg
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $131.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Blue 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $47.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card | $535.63 @ Amazon
Case | Enermax - OSTROG ATX Mid Tower Case | $57.70 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Asus - VX238H 23.0" 1920x1080 Monitor | $139.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1472.71
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1452.71
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-24 09:13 EDT-0400 |

Note: I already have the Monitor, the case, the hard drive, and the power supply.

I might change out the power supply for a 500W one though or Change out the stock cpu cooler. I've been looking at noctua cpu coolers, esp. this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A/?tag=pcpapi-20 They seem sleek as hell.

an alternative then would be to get the NHD14 which is just a little older. You would have to order the noctua bracket from them for free or buy it from amazon for $7. The NHD14 is only 65$ though!
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487792582&sr=8-1&keywords=nh-d14

I'd say it all depends on your budget and how much extra work you're willing to do. Air coolers require a lot less maintenance and have fewer points of failure, so can be seen as a bit safer. The Dark Rock 4 is a good one, although if you're up in that price range I'd recommend anything from Noctua. Their stuff is bulletproof, the build quality is incredible. The NH-D14 is available for the same price as the Dark Rock 4 (the NH-D15 replaced it at a slightly higher cost, I'd go for that if you want the best of the best) and I think would be your best bet for air cooling.

However if you're really going after overclocking it as far as possible and you want to have more headroom, then out of what you recommended I'd say to go for the H115i if you're good with paying for it.

I use:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VKVZ1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_5JYIBb8H9QJ08

With this thermal paste:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uLYIBb6FD9PMT

The heatsink is large but it's super quiet. That whole family of heatsinks has good reviews.

Okay...

And they have free shipping on orders over $100. Whos to say he wouldnt buy $20 more worth of stuff?

If you were to lower the cost of your memory and completely remove your DVD drive (install Windows using a USB drive), you can pick up one of the NH-D14's. They're very popular and are just as good as Corsair/Asetek CLC's.

There are two heatsinks in the photo. The closer one to the camera is marked "CM" (cooler master) on the top, and is a Hyper 212 evo with no fans on it. The other one is a noctua NH-D14 and will fit in most ATX cases. It however will cover the first ram slot on most motherboards, requiring RAM used in the slot to be put in first, and be under 44mm high.

Considering picking these up. Any changes I should make and is there any chance of any of these going lower?

mobo
ram
hsf
cpu

If its just for gaming then I would get the cooler, but I would rather get a high end air cooler like the noctua nh-d14 rather then a 120mm rad cooler like the h60

That cooler while decent, is pretty small compared to what you should be using nowadays. Getting a better cooler makes SUBSTANTIAL difference. Remember, heat kills.

I suggest either a Noctua D15 or a 240mm AIO at the least if you have the budget.

A couple cheaper but great price to performance coolers I picked out are these:

AIR:

Sycthhe Ninja 5

Noctua D14


BeQuiet DR4



Water:

Coolermaster 240

Deepcool captain 240

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A

King of Air

its a longshot but i have a d14 cooler. pm me if interested.

Do you have stock cooler/radiator? is so I would look into upgrading. This one is good one Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for budget and best on market right now. As for thermal paster Here is a pretty good one ARCTIC MX-4 Thermal Compound Paste

The thermal paste goes on top of your CPU when you fix your radiator/cooler, here is a good video on how, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2MEAnZ3swQ

Let me first say im not an expert in Air coolers for cpus, I have always used All in one(AIO) water coolers. AIO are definitely more expensive, but easier to install, have better cooling ability, but can be louder than Air coolers.

Air coolers tend to have better price/performance and are cheaper but tend to be harder to install.

These two below are two of the most popular due to price/performance so they are worth looking at on the AUS side of things to.

https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

This article also has some good info on both types and good suggestions at different price points
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-cpu-coolers,4181.html

The only other thing would be to try and get a EVGA G series psu or a Seasonic G series(What i have, caught it on sale tho). If you cant find one of them Corsair makes some cool ones too. You want to get a Bronze 80 rated PSU at the very least. They are one of the most important parts of the pc and one going bad can cause damage or a lot of instability once your gpu/cpu starts kicking in.

Im not familar with the cases you choose but its important to look at the manufacturers website of the case to see how much clearance each case provides for air coolers since they can be big as hell.

That all being said I think the UMART build is the best out of the three with the PC CASE GEAR coming in second.

The UMART is only $100 AUS more than the others according to the image but with that build you get better performance with the ability to overclock later down the line if you need more power eventually.
Plus you get slightly faster ram so overall it looks better.

Remember that you can upgrade to a better case, GPU or cpu fan etc down the line if you outgrow your current selection but the CPU/PSU, and Motherboard will be fine for a lot of years so its worth spending a little more on them now.

Also sheesh man those AUS prices are no joke, that 470 would only be around $160-180 in the states

I would recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo. This is a very good cpu cooler and is reasonably quiet. https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI

Edit: What is your current cpu cooler?

This is the best budget cooler but it is too tall for many older cases. Something like this will do the job and the price is right.

Hey OP! To answer your question, that will be one hell of a PC. I have a question though, are you using a stock cooler on your i5-4690? I honestly wouldn't recommend it. If you're going air cooling, go with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. If you are going with liquid cooling, I would go with the Kraken X31.

I live in venezuela, so 30°c is a normal temperature.
Mi solución fue usar 2 disipadores de 240mm en el frente y uno de 120mm en la parte trasera para hacer el aire circular, mi case es genérico así que le hice unos pequeños agujeros al frente y para el cpu tengo un cooler Master este para ser exactos

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JbiyDb9CS8EE6

Uso un AMD x4 860k y una nvida GTX 1050 con 16gb de ram, a día de hoy no tengo problemas con la temperatura, trata de mantener tu PC limpia y las pastas térmicas de CPU y GPU en buen estado.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MS3tDbN9W885Y



XFX Radeon RX 5700 8GB GDDR6 3xDP HDMI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T81CGFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sT3tDb496Y1V8



Patriot 16GB(2x8GB) Viper III DDR3 1866MHz (PC3 15000) CL10 Desktop Memory With Black Mamba Heatsink - PV316G186C0K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00453R90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4T3tDb7TX3RQN

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GoHaAbZ0GXZTW
It's this the same one except red led?

the build is perfect but i recommend http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463623842&sr=8-1&keywords=cooler+master+hyper+212+evo+82.9+cfm+sleeve+bearing+cpu+cooler

These temps are totally fine in my book. An aftermarket cooler would help with your CPU temps though.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s03

I have an I5 6600 that stays between 26 and 35 C constantly. highly recommend

The EVO 212 is a nice little CPU cooler for $30. I use it and love it for the price.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463972619&sr=8-1&keywords=evo+212

You probably want this heatsink not just a fan. Assuming this fits in your case, it'll be the most cost effective measure to keep heat down. Also, make sure that your case is exhausting hot air quickly.

Any reason not to go with a Hyper 212 EVO? It's the go-to suggestion for CPU coolers. If you're not overclocking, there's no need for anything expensive to cool the chip.

Not much better you can do than a [build with an i7-6700K, GTX 1080, and Samsung 950 PRO] (https://www.theaipc.com/result/c1467911191918).

Throw in a good ATX case-- Corsair makes good ones so [something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MKMG2/) would probably do the trick.

Edit: A CPU cooler would help too if you end up overclocking-- [the hyper 212 evo works great for me] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/)

i7 for gaming usage is overkill, get an i5-4690K instead.

Get a Z97 board to match your i5-4690K. This MSI Z97 PC MATE should do the job.

Get a CPU Cooler if you're going to OC it, Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO.

This is the cooler I recently bought: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1466783819&sr=1-1&keywords=CPU+Cooler

Literally caused the heat coming off my CPU to go down by roughly 30~40 degrees. Couldn't be happier.

No problem :D . If you have trouble with that cooler, I recommend the Enermax ETS T40 (which I have and I overclocked my i5 3570k to 4.4GHz, while maintaining it less than 70 degrees, but sadly the overclock was unstable, so many of my games crashed, forcing me to go to 4.2GHz. it also comes in different colours :P ) or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

OP get a different CPU cooler like the Hyper 212 evo


You're running over max temps.
***
If you have a good 3rd party heat sync watch this video on how to apply/re-apply thermal paste if you don't know.


You might have burnt your chip if you ran it that hot for a long time.

This is definitely not normal. The stock CPU Cooler should be able to handle it fairly well, but your temperatures are too high. Consider buying a better Cooler like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-HT2-28PK-R1-Hyper-Heatpipes/dp/B00K7809O2/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3K4XT2YJLQ7R8&keywords=coolermaster+hyper+212+evo&qid=1562316610&s=gateway&sprefix=coolermaster%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3K4XT2YJLQ7R8&keywords=coolermaster+hyper+212+evo&qid=1562316610&s=gateway&sprefix=coolermaster%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-3

​

If you don't want to buy a new Cooler, you should re-apply the thermal paste as this is abnormal behavior even for the stock Cooler.

I think people underestimate the need to Processor cooling.

I upgraded to an i7-4790 and the game still ran terrible. I went ahead and ordered a Cooler Master Hyper and now it runs smooth..

Cooler Matser

From the same place you buy your computer hardware of course. Anyways, you'll want a cooler that supports LGA 1151, which most do these days anyways.

Then you get to decide it you want an air cooler or a radiator cooler. here are a few for you to look at for reference:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-RR-212E-20PK-R2-120mm/dp/B005O65JXI

https://www.amazon.com/CRYORIG-Tower-Cooler-Intel-CPUs/dp/B00S7YA5FQ

https://www.amazon.com/DeepCool-Cooling-CAPTAIN-240-EX/dp/B01HGMHVAQ

Cheers!

Well, A GPU would be a good investment, but I don't think you'll need that considering what you said was just programming and stuff. If you got into the realm of more intense stuff, like video editing or 3D CAD, then A GPU would be needed. I would recommend a CPU cooler (are those temps in Celsius for Fahrenheit?). You don't really need the liquid cooler (It's more money for more cooling, primarily for high-intensity gaming). the Cooler Master 212 EVO will get you by, along with some Arctic Silver 5. But.......Your darn case. This one should fit though

Well im not that expert but the case you selected i think it comes with a frontal intake fan and another fan as exhaust on the back, which is the same as my Corsair Carbide 300R series, and trust me with only 2 fans with the case you will have a decent airflow, considering the videocard has its own and also CPU which it really depends on what you want, but take a look at this one for your CPU (if you dont want liquid cooling), COOLER MASTER EVO HYPER 212!

But for the PSU i bought a Corsair 800gs one and let me tell you its reliable, take a look at this one Corsair CXM 750W! , if anything else i can help with let me know.

UPDATE: The version on the pcpartpicker was SEMI MODULAR not non modular (which comes with all cables attached to it), CX 750W CORSAIR NON MODULAR!

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI something like that on a budget. Noctua's are good for more $.

XFR and PBO are ryzen 2 features that auto-overclock your cpu based on thermal sensors.

https://www.anandtech.com/show/12625/amd-second-generation-ryzen-7-2700x-2700-ryzen-5-2600x-2600/5 is a good write up on the tech.

From posts here, dialing in manual overclocks and voltages will rarely offer much higher performance than turning those on with a good cooler.

I'd like the opinion of my peers here:

I'm upgrading the CPU cooler from the stock cooler so I can take advantage of my i5-7500K (I can't find the K anywhere, but I'm 99% sure it is) and actually overclock the thing so I can actually get 60fps on Assassin's Creed Odyssey. I only get about 45-60fps in that game. I've never overclocked before, so that will be a journey in it of itself.

It's between the Hyper 212 Evo and the be quiet! Dark Rock 4. I have them both up in tabs and am trying to decide. I imagine they run comparably, but the Dark Rock 4 matches my mostly black with some white build better. The Dark Rock 4 is also the recommended cooler by Tom's Hardware, which I like to use as a resource.

I also looked at the Cooler Master MasterAir MA410M but that might be too much RGB for me. Only RGB thing in my build is on my motherboard and it's just like a pulsating red light.

A true first world problem deciding if an all-black cooler is worth an extra $50. But what do you think?

Also, here's the build otherwise:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i5-7500 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.89 @ B&H
Motherboard | ASRock - Z270 Killer SLI/ac ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $63.99 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $149.89 @ OutletPC
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $128.90 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB SC2 Video Card |-
Case | NZXT - S340 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case |-
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $149.89 @ OutletPC

Edit: I'm second guessing if I can even overclock this CPU. I swear the GeForce Experience thing told me my CPU was an i5-7500K, but those don't seem to exist and the amazon page doesn't tell me if I can overclock. I need to go home and get in front of it and double check.

CPU + Mobo, $86.24
8GB ram Dual channel, 70.99
240GB SSD, $100 ($20 MIR)
Used r9 270x, around $110 I believe (don't have a link for this, find one on ebay or something)
Windows 8, $90.26
Corsair 430W, $40 ($20 MIR)
Corsair 200r, $50 ($10 MIR)
CM Hyper 212 Evo, $35.96

Rest should go into speakers mouse keyboard.
if you need a monitor that's gonna be like an extra 120
If you could however chauk up a little bit more money I would go for a bigger PSU
The current one is fine, but its safer to go overkill on PSU than it is to hover somewhat above.

My plan is gaming and programe in Java, Python ... But i cant waste more than 300€ in a CPU right now.

Do you recommend me H7 or Artic33? I have seen this Cooler Master RR 212E but if you said H7 or Artic I can trust in you x)

So I think that I will buy this case, one of the cooler that you said to me and maybe this CPU if I dont have more recommendations.

Thank you man, I appreciate your help!

Your upgrade looks like it will be way cheaper than mine was.

I got the Rift on sale for $350, but my PC was like 10 years old with only a new SSD in it.

Ended up getting an i5-9600K + MSI Z390 Gaming Edge for $470, 16 GB of RAM, Cooler Master 212 EVO which turned out to be huge and a huge pain in the ass to install (I recommend watching the video on that page that I didn't notice until after I installed the thing with only it's Ikea-like instructions.), but that big fan means it's far quieter than the tiny stock fans processors usually come with. The i5-9600K does not come with a fan either, so I had no choice and this was the most popular one on NewEgg.

Also got myself an MSI Gaming X GTX 1070 used on Ebay for $270. And because it only has one HDMI port, I decided to use that for the RIFT because it was less risky, and got a Displayport to HDMI cable which supports audio for my monitor which has the speakers built in and does not have a Displayport connector. Only afterward while taking my PC apart however did I realize I had the HMDI cable plugged into my old card with a DVI adapter, and the Gaming X has a DVI port as well, so I could have saved the money on the cable. :(

Also at the last minute I had to run out and grab a Corsair 750W power supply because my perfectly good Coolermaster 750W power supply did not have an 8 pin connector for my CPU. Of course, when I got it home it did not have the 4 pin connector and the motherboard has both a 4 pin and 8 pin and I assumed both would be needed, but I gave it a shot and just having the 8 pin was fine. But now I wonder if just having the 4 pin would also have been fine. The damn manual doesn't have a thing to say about it being okay to just use one of them, but being an electrical engineer I have to assume they're both tied to the same rail on the board, so I'm just gaining a bit more copper to lower the voltage drop if I were to connect a 4 pin as well, and the system seems perfectly stable, so perhaps they included the second connector to help with overclocking. I dunno.

Anyway, final tally including the Rift without a third sensor was $1,339.

And if you're wondering why I didn't go with AMD, well, I could have but when I priced it out, I wasn't actually going to save that much. And the Intel seemed like it would perform better with both games and applications and would just be less likely to have any issues like the Vive and its wireless solution do with AMD processors.

Part of the reason the AMD was not much cheaper is the same MSI motherboard would have been more expensive as an AMD variant and while the AMD included a cooler, the Cooler Master one was only $30 and had a bigger fan which meant it would likely be quieter. Though the AMD does run at a lower wattage, so it could be a toss up. All I know is my old PC sounded like a jet engine when I started doing any heavy lifting with 3D graphics, and it was still kinda noisy otherwise, but now its super quiet and even when running 3D apps that MSI card which I specifically chose because it's one of the quietest, was indeed really quiet.

Speaking of the 1070, my god that is a monster of a card! I barely fit it in my case. And my case is a full size tower. But it has extra 3.5" bays down the bottom where I have my hard drives installed and I had to move them down some more to get it to fit and it only barely slid in behind the metal frame of the drive bay.

Only other thing to mention is while I had no problem fitting my two ram sticks on the motherboard, that Cooler Master cooler's fan would probably collide with one of the ram sticks if I were to install four in there. I think the fan can slide up and down on the cooler though, so perhaps as long as you have low profile ram, you could slide it up a smidge or two to make it fit. Something to consider if you think you may eventually want 32 or 64GB of ram.

A good cooler for this would be Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO for 3000. So, the cost goes to around 23000. This is a 100% premium over the r5.1600 for sure, but you get a 15% increase in performance and 2 cores and 4 threads.

I personally wont go for it, but there are people who want a high end CPU and this is the one to get.

It is the best affordable workstation cpu in the market. Another good option is https://mdcomputers.in/amd-octa-core-ryzen-7-1800x.html @ 23000/-

212 evo is pretty much the cheapest usable heatsink at $32
https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=pd_day0_hl_147_1/134-1822779-0293319?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005O65JXI&pd_rd_r=228ce3e4-397b-11e9-85bf-371aa4c168e5&pd_rd_w=C4ZXm&pd_rd_wg=QlOQZ&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=DM08SD8AWB1JNRM1YF6M&psc=1&refRID=DM08SD8AWB1JNRM1YF6M

At $38 you can upgrade to an H7.
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4UF2DZ6565&Description=cryorig%20h7&cm_re=cryorig_h7-_-13C-000U-00005-_-Product

Ok, so I hadn't really planned on making this a long response, but here we are with a nice little wall.

TL;DR at the bottom if you don't care about the smaller details.

Turbo is a processor-based function. I used to have a non-K processor and that still turbos. The K model processors also have turbo stats. Overclocking refers to pushing the processor's base speed(in your example: 3.2Ghz) past the manufacturer recommended specs. After overclocking, you can still acheive higher speeds with the Turbo functionality, but it doesn't tend to kick in as often since you already have it overclocked.

K processors have unlocked multipliers which makes overclocking much easier. However, you can still overclock a non-K processor, it is just more difficult, usually less stable, and takes a good bit more technical knowledge since it requires manually adjusting voltages and other settings from the advanced menu on your motherboard(if applicable). With K processors, many newer motherboards(especially higher end ones, gaming ones, etc.) have either a hardware or software(within the BIOS) button/switch which will attempt to automatically calculate a safe and stable operating clock speed above the manufacturer recommended spec.

Depending on your processor and how "well" it overclocks, you may see a large boost in performance. For example, a common budget overclocking CPU(Intel-based) is the Pentium G3258 Anniversary edition. In most cases, you will see a pretty substantial boost to your clock speed(each board and CPU combo will work slightly differently due to each manufacturer's programming). I used to use the above mentioned Pentium CPU until I was able to save up for an i5. IIRC, it's base clock is also 3.2GHz, and with an aftermarket cooler I was able to overclock it to 4.0/4.1GHz using my motherboard's auto-overclock function. With manual tuning, I was able to jump it up to 4.3 and still have it be stable. I now use an i5 4690(non-K) and a water cooler. I have not yet overclocked my i5 since I've had great performance out of it and haven't seen the need to apply any tweaks.

TL;DR, You're kinda right in that Turbo increases clock speed(this is a processor function), but overclocking is actually a separate function related to your motherboard and its power settings.

Just buy a cheap Hyper 212 EVO or something similar, if it can fit in your case.

People complain about costs but I went to electronics recycler in town and took heatsinks from some old computers, with the pump, clear vinyl tubing, and a peice of ABS plastic to mount it all on total cost was $28 CAD for the parts I am using now.

I bought this [kit] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01M66ZSXT/ref=cfb_at_prodpg) but the heatsink/fan was not big enough to actually cool the TEC. so I used a bigger one, a CoolerMasterHyper 212 that was free via salvage. I used this pump and here is my heat exchanger that sits in the nutrient solution and simply run salt water through it because the coolant will freeze near the cooling pad it you use regular tapwater. Goes to about -5 C.

Cooler Master Hyper212 Evo

Read my post and what I say about Aio coolers. Typically I wouldn't recommend building a custom loop if you're new to pc's. Even aio coolers aren't needed for the average gamer. This is one of the most commonly used aftermarket air coolers, with almost 8k amazon reviews, you know there's something right about it. Something like this would be ideal for a new pc builder.

You should definitely look into getting a heatsink/fan for the CPU. I recommend the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO. Great CFM with little noise and fair price.

Probably. Overclocking with a stock heatsink is a nono. Get this one for only $34.

You really don't need an over the top Mobo I listed once from amazon that goes for $150(I personally use a gigabyte mobo and find them extremely easy to use for OCing, reliable, and typically less expensive). Also make sure you buy the 4690k i5, not the regular 4690. This will allow you to OC. Also make sure you buy a third-party cooler as the stock one is absolute shit and breaks really easily. And as for SSD I would recommend a 250gb Samsung 850 Evo. I use a Samsung 830(2 years old and still works fantastic) which is blazing fast and this newer generation is even better and more affordable than ever.


Mobo:
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-GA-Z97X-GAMING-Gaming-Networking-Motherboard/dp/B00K2RQDXY/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420863828&sr=1-2&keywords=gigabyte+z97

CPU cooler:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420864015&sr=1-10&keywords=4690k

SSD:
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420864169&sr=1-1&keywords=samsung+ssd

case: Corsair Carbide Series White 500R Mid Tower Computer Case
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005E97ZUU/ref=oh_details_o09_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

motherboard: MSI Computer Corp. Motherboard ATX DDR3 1333 LGA 1150 Motherboards Z87-G45
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D12OBEU/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i04?ie=UTF8&psc=1

processor: Intel Core i5-4670K Quad-Core Desktop Processor 3.4 GHZ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CO8TBOW/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

thermal paste: Arctic Silver 5
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OGX5AM/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

psu: Cooler Master V1000 - 1000W Power Supply with Fully Modular Cables and 80 PLUS Gold Certification
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CGY4ETG/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

heatsink: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

memory: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006EWUO22/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

fans: Corsair Air Series AF120 Quiet Edition Twin Pack Fan
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESG7G/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition Single Fan
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RESGGC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

storage: Seagate Desktop HDD 4 TB
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B99JU4S/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Samsung Electronics 840 Pro
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Electronics-Series-2-5-Inch-MZ-7PD256BW/dp/B009NB8WRU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382907278&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+840pro

Seagate Barracuda 3 TB HDD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B99JU4S/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

keyboards: CM Storm QuickFire Stealth
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CKJ2EZI/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ducky Shine II TKL Mechanical Keyboard White LED Backlit (Black Cherry MX)
http://tigerimports.net/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=12170

mouse: Logitech G9X
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Programmable-Laser-Gaming-Precision/dp/B001NTFATI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382907692&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+g9x

hot swap hard drive bay: Plugable USB 3.0 SATA Hard Drive
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APP6694/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

monitor: ViewSonic VX2703MH-LED 27-Inch LED-Lit Monitor
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008A3KFB8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

sata cables: 18" White SATA 3 III 6 GB/s
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DK68OA4/ref=oh_details_o09_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

lighting kit: NZXT CB-LED20-WT 2-Metres Light Sensitivity Sleeved LED Kit
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0046Y5Z92/ref=oh_details_o09_s02_i05?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here it is with a Thermalright Truespirit 120, which is about 10mm smaller than a 212+. The Hyper T4 is probably a better option.

At that price range you can get a pretty good CPU cooler(comes with thermal paste as well, if you didn't know that btw). Even if you don't have any plan on overclocking you can still get it just for less fan noise. If you don't care about either stock fan should be fine as long as you buy some new thermal paste.

Definitely, I agree with his suggestion. You can look up low profile air cooler. I don't know if Hyper 212 Evo would fit, but that cooler is really good and it's fairly cheap.

You can also look into Silenx or Noctura NH-L12

No problem. Also since you're getting an overclocking CPU, I forgot to recommend you an aftermarket CPU cooler.

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo ($491): http://www.amazon.com.mx/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Ventilador-para/dp/B005O65JXI/

The Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is basically the standard for air cooling, and cost $30. It'd be perfect for running at stock clock speeds and it should offer enough headroom for very mild overclocks.

The Cryorig H7 is extremely similar. I think I remember seeing a review that mentioned a better fin pattern or something like that so it's supposed to be marginally better than the 212. And the white fan looks pretty cool. I know that this one may or may not require an AM4 adapter kit depending whether or not it comes with the revised backplate. But you can just request that from Cryorig and they'll send on to you.

This is the one I got. Good price and works extremely well.

Cooler Master Hyper RR-212E-20PK-R2 LED CPU Cooler with PWM Fan, Four Direct Contact Heat Pipes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_wrBNpwuq9KO5m

It is the cooler that goes over your cpu, the stock will work fine if you're just gaming but i'd really recommend getting an aftermarket cooler such as a Hyper 212 Evo or a CRYORIG M9i. They're relatively easy to put on and are much, much quieter than the stock cooler and allow to overclock and not worry about your cpu temps

No. It's banned in Canada because the thermal paste is inedible and a Nova Scotian woman named Tipsy Viscera (Tipper Gore's cousin) convinced the Canadian government to ban it.

Source

Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO a good replacement for the CRYORIG H7? In Canada it is very hard to find the H7 without shipping from states. Looking primarily at this one

There you go. Prime and 30$
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-RR-212E-20PK-R2/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453278948&sr=8-1&keywords=Hyper+212

It's a very good fan by the way.

Do yourself a favor. It's 30 bucks and drastically decreases idle and load temps, regardless of oc. It's a little unwieldy to install, but holy Krishna is it worth it.

You could, but your bottleneck is without a doubt your CPU. Fortunately, you can upgrade to another LGA 775 compatible chip for a modest cost. Here is a modified QX9650, which seems like a great upgrade over what you've got. Or you can pick up a Q6600 for a slightly lower cost. Actually, I think the Core 2 Extreme processors may not be compatible with your motherboard, I'll leave that in there until I know otherwise (Core 2 Quad Q6600 would definitely work). It should work, the ASUS P5QL manual states that it does (page 28).

I would highly recommend the QX9650 over the Q6600 at that price (far better performance, don't even consider the Q6600 if you can get the QX9650).

You'll probably also want either a new cooler, or at the very least new thermal paste for your upgraded LGA 775 processor (the old stuff on it will be rock hard and unusable). For example, the CM Hyper 212 EVO ($38 Amazon, also available w/ $10 Mail-in rebate on Newegg but +$6 shipping) is compatible with the LGA 775 chipset, but will also be compatible with all modern motherboards (LGA2011 & AM4 with an extra bracket) for when you do your full upgrade in the future. Or if you think you might get a CPU with a fan already included (such as the non-k variant Intel processors, or the non-x AMD AM4 Ryzen processors), you can simply buy new thermal paste and re-apply it when you install your upgraded LGA 775 processor.

If you want more RAM, you'll have to find out if you're currently using DDR2 or DDR3 RAM, documentation on P43 boards is really weak I'm having a tough time figuring out what your board supports (conflicting information all over the place). Then you can add more. Your board supports up to 1066MHz DDR2.

Also, while you're finding out whether you have ddr2 or 3 try and find out which dual core CPU you have, and your current graphics card. Thanks.

tl;dr: Buy a refurbished/pre-owned QX9650, get new thermal paste or a new cpu fan, find out what the speed and timings are of your current ram and then try and match that when you add more (or just buy a new/pre-owned set of 2x4gb DDR2 1066MHz ram).

Air coolers

http://www.phanteks.com/ph-tc14pe.html

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK


Dual Fan AIO water cooler

http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/cpu-cooler/#xcx=0&sort=d6&page=1&m=11

I personally don't know much about the difference between the models of the h1xxi's and there has to be one , theres other brand like options like NZXT kraken , all of these are the ones that I know of that are capable of handling temps nicely and thus better for overclocking.

Hi, I’ve got the following on order for the same price range you are looking for.

On the 4K front, the Ti will do 60fps all games max setting near enough. I’ve gone for a 2K 144Hz IPS G-Sync monitor instead of pursuing 4K at the moment. There is a new 4K HDR Acer/ASUS 144Hz coming out soon. There is no SSD in this list.

You could upgrade the Ram which would take you to £2400 after SSD or m.2.

HDD
Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x16GB 3000MHz
Corsair CS650M 80+ Gold
i7 8700k
NZXT S340 Elite Black Gaming Case
EVGA 1080Ti FTW3
Noctua NH-D15 CPU Cooler
Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7

you could save up for 20$ more and you could get noctua nh-d15

it's the best non-watercooling cpu cooler. i've oc'd my 6600k to 4.5 ghz and my cpu is at 54°C under load. It includes high quality thermal paste. it's easy to put into the motherboard.

I mean, with a good air cooler you can do as well or better than water coolers. Liquid coolers are generally for people who want better looks, require it for space, or just want to mess around with water cooling.

Something like the Noctua D15 is pretty much as good as you can get between air or liquid coolers.

Get a Dell S2716DGR. Check the /r/buildapcsales reddit as it goes on sale constantly. It is the best gaming monitor dollar-per-dollar one can buy for an Nvidia card. G-sync and 144hz is a 100% must if you're going to game on it. It's worth it.

As /u/mike718 said, go ahead and step up to the Noctua NH-D15. It's big and ugly, but you'll never have to buy another cooler again.

SSD is totally subjective to your needs. When I do builds for myself or others, I always go with the 500gb Samsung 850 Evo. High reliability and great speed. It's gotten much more affordable over the past year so it's always my go to.

I'm not sure what you're PC knowledge is, but getting Windows on to a new PC can be a little tricky if you're basically illiterate on the matter. Google and YouTube are your friends.

I posted this late in the Aug 20 thread, but here it is again.

I need a more silent setup and will be going with a Fractal Design Define R5 and a Noctua NH-D15 as per u/widowhanzo recommendation instead of an AIO cooler. I have five 3.5" drives and would need to keep the larger HDD bay which holds six 3.5" drives. I will not be needing the smaller HDD bay nor the ODD 5.25" bay.

My questions are as follows:

1. Where would be the optimal location to mount the large HDD bay? Options: Front-Bottom, Front-Middle (Default), Front-Top (ODD bay removed)?
   
2. How do I maintain static pressure given the location of the large HDD bay while keeping the integrity of the sound absorption
   
   Thank you!

Eh, it's more like they gave you a cheap cooler. It's probably ok, but as you can see you're hitting the max temps in some situations (100C).

Depends on what you want to spend really. Noctua is considered the best for air coolers.

This is like the most popular noctua model I think:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

And then there are all in one (AIO) water coolers for $100 (but noctua is on par with them and beats many of them). Here is the one I have for my 9900k:

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=evga+clc+280&qid=1574222298&sr=8-1

There are definitely cheaper options that should be solid especially if you're not going to be pushing an overclock and all that. I'm not an expert on coolers but if you search 'cpu cooler 9700k' on /r/buildapc you can probably find a lot of good recommendations.

If you have the space (check your case specs) and can go the extra $14, the Noctua NH-D15 is pretty much one of the best air coolers out there. It outperforms pretty much all air coolers, and also outperforms all liquid coolers of the same price.

You may not like the colours though.

Noctua would be a pretty good choice for air cooling.

Noctua NH D15

I didn't shop around for deals, but get something like this for PSU (I just pulled this randomly from Amazon, may be cheaper elsewhere):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-RM550x-Modular-Power-Supply/dp/B015PWMRI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505751416&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair%2Brm550&th=1

Your build doesn't use that much power & that PSU will go silent for low usage loads. I'd also probably get a quiet-oriented case, though some people love their windows. For cooler I'd probably save some money by going for a good air cooler I can re-use over and over. Like this classic:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/noctua-NH-D15-Noctua/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1505751584&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=noctua+d-15

If you are concerned about noise and want to spend that much on a CPU cooler I would suggest either the Noctua NH-D15 or the be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 3 which is my personal favorite and in my current rig though it seems to be hard even to get here in the states right now so I'm guessing availability in Canada will be even tougher. If you will not be doing lots of video editing or heavy processing things then I think the 6600k will be fine. If you just want a quiet PC and some light overclocking and want to bring the price down then I would also suggest you look at something like the Cryorig H5 cooler which is about a sub $50 cooler in the U.S. but PCPartPicker seems to not be able to find any Canadian retailers for it. It would be my midrange suggestion for a cooler. The H7 has been very popular lately as well and that goes for about $35 USD or for less than that there is always the fan favorite Cooler Master 212 EVO. I see nothing wrong with the motherboard. I own a similar Gigabyte motherboard myself and it is great. All you really miss out on with that one is no SLI support. As for monitors in the future I would personally go for 144Hz over 1440P but that is personal preference. IPS would also be preferable to TN for photoshop but a 144Hz IPS will be very pricy (like $500+ and that's looking at prices here in the U.S.) and since it sounds like gaming is your primary use and Photoshop is your secondary use I would go with a 144Hz TN over a 60Hz IPS.

H115i

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B019955RNQ/

I don't think that you need to get a new cpu. The i5 4400 is still pretty decent CPU.

I think you just need to check your cooling solution. Bring your PC outside and open it up. Check the fan on the CPU and make sure that the fan and grills are free of dust.

You could also just buy a new cooler. I would recommend the Hyper 212 Evo that's half off right now.

But you need a cooler for any CPU. Intel used to include their stock coolers in the box but I think the 9600K doesn't have one. They were too basic anyway. You can get a decent cooler, even enough for some light overclocking if you decide to try it later on, for 25-35 dollars. These two are good options:

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212L-16PR-R1-Direct-Contact/dp/B01KBXKP8W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Cooler+Master+Hyper+212&qid=1554477817&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Reeven-RC-1001b-Brontes-Profile-Cooler/dp/B0753HVHDM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Reeven+RC-1001b+Brontes&qid=1554477856&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Three suggestions:

1. If you plan on doing high overclocking get a Asrock Extreme 4 motherboard. If not, you can keep the one you picked. The Asrock MoBo has more power phases and will give you a more stable overclock.
   
2. If you're looking to hit 5GHz get the new Corsair H115i Extreme CPU cooler for ~9K. Its new, and extremely good for the price. If you only want to do a mild overclock, you can go with something like this new Cooler Master 620P (H=165mm) which is nearly as good as a Cryorig H5 Universal (H=160mm) and priced at a very decent 3.7K.
   
3. If you go for an air cooler, then instead of Corsair 200R (CPU clearance 165mm), you could get this Cooler Master Masterbox 5 (CPU clearance 167mm) with that beautiful front grille to suck in loads of air. Just discovered it today and am going to recommend it to everyone who has a case budget of ~6k. If you go for the AIO cooler, then I'd personally recommend getting a case with top 280mm radiator placement possible. From what I search last time, these are you options that do allow top mounted 280mm rads:
   
   Thermaltake Suppressor F31
   
   Thermaltake View 31
   
   Phanteks Enthoo Pro M (out of stock so this is the white version)
   
   Thermaltake Core X31
   
   They all sit in the medium range cost wise, but they'll give you an important option of freeing up the front of your case so you can put your case fans and draw outside air in.
   
   Other than this, the Sickleflow fans you picked are fine, you can go with them. If you're tight on budget, then let me know what you have to work with so I'll try to suggest the best option within that. Also let us know how much you're looking to overclock that CPU. It is very regularly known to hit 5GHz if enough cooling is given.
   
   Edit:
   
   If all this is sounding very costly to you, and you were not much interested in overclocking anyway, I'd suggest you to go for the i7 8700 processor (Rs. 22K), a Gigabyte Aorus 3 Gaming B360 motherboard (Rs. 10K), and a Cooler Master Hyper 212 CPU cooler (Rs. 2.8K) and call it a day. At stock speeds the 8700 is better at gaming than the 8600K.

See I was thinking about this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KBXKP8W/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 because on

http://www.coolermaster.com/we-are-ready-for-your-am4-socket/

it shows it was already am4 ready.

Noctua D-15 SE AM4 -- http://noctua.at/en/nh-d15-se-am4.html

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-Premium-Grade-Cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT

hm, back in stock on june 1st.

the cooler also, back in stock in 5 days...

They already have an AM4 edition of the NH-D15 on amazon. I bought it and got it in the mail today.

Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-SE-AM4-premium-grade-cooler/dp/B01NC06ZYT/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1487790802&sr=1-2&keywords=am4 Here's one that comes with the AM4 bracket.

Here's the link to the AM4 version(from Amazon UK)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01NC06ZYT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497829702&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=noctua+nh-d15&dpPl=1&dpID=51xcGRRFrrL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Rev-CPU-Cooler-Support/dp/B06ZYB8K77

I'm using the Mugen 5 scythe rev. B instead of the stock cooler. On the Ryzen Master stress test, 100% load all cores, I reach 81 degrees with all cores at 4075 Mhz with PBO on. I'll keep an eye out in games to see what temps/clocks I reach during normal loads.

Would advise to wait out a week for the Ryzen R5 2600 ($199 + cheaper mobo), seems that it will be much better bang for the buck as the i5-8400 can provide. Any of those CPUs will anyway not bottleneck the GTX1060, actually there is probably no 6+ core CPU which would bottleneck anything less as the GTX1080...

Then also the cooler - if you dont specifically want the AIO for the looks or some other particular reason, then I would advise to go Scythe Mugen 5 for $48 as It cools better as the 120mm AIO, its even quieter, while being cheaper a bit and more reliable...

Max safe voltage is supposedly only 1.38V for 12nm ryzens: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/amtnt4/ryzen_generation_2_safeunsafe_voltages_tested/

Any "big" cooler like around Scythe Mugen 5 size should handle that easily and quietly

Arctic freezer 34 is fine as well

Any cheap 4-heatpipe 120mm fan Hyper 212 clone would work as well and they are cheaper, but they might get hot and loud around 1.38V

4.2GHz is unlikely to work, unless you're lucky.

Highest I could get while staying in "safe" voltages zone was 4.125GHz using 1.378V on my Ryzen 2600

Here's a Newegg link and it turns out I was mistakenly calling it the 'Rev.2' when it's the 'Rev.B'

*It looks like Amazon has something similar but it might not be the Rev.B with AM4 support. They do have this Mugen 5 by Scythe (Rev.B so AM4 support) though which I've read good things about but no experience. It looks like a larger H7 but with more heat-pipes and a better mounting system.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-Scmg-5100-Computer-Cooling-Black/dp/B06ZYB8K77/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1539256480&sr=8-11&keywords=scythe+cooler

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scythe-56500-Heatsink-CPU-Black/dp/B071XCCM7V/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539256501&sr=8-3&keywords=scythe+cooler+1100

Perhaps you have to use the product number instead of the name.

Had a liquid cooler it failed. So did my brother's. We both switched to this:cooler

I like Noctua but not enough to drop $100 for just a CPU cooler. I went with the Scythe Mugen Rev.B, it's another big bastard cooler with similar performance for half the price, smarter buy imo.

$48 cooler that will cool 9900k fine:
Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm Air CPU Cooler, Tower Heatsink with 6 Heatpipes, Quiet PWM Fan, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB8K77/

$59 cooler that will cool 9900ks fine:
Scythe Fuma 2 120mm Air CPU Cooler, Twin Heatsinks/PWM Fans with 6 Heatpipes, Intel LGA1151, AMD AM4/Ryzen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RFNG89S/

I'm biased but I got this from a buddy because he accidentally ordered two and I love it.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06ZYB8K77?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B 120mm CPU Cooler with AM4 Support

I have used this for numerous used/new PCs I sell. Little bit better cooler with more RGB. If you can wait and set a price alert, I've gotten it on 2 separate occasions for $25.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2M23YPGFTOBWU&keywords=deepcool+gammax+gt&qid=1566724434&s=gateway&sprefix=deepcool+gammaxx+gt%2Caps%2C180&sr=8-2

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EQVIDbXC5T0TQ

I changed the fan though

DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0Mc9Bb0X8GHPD

As said above, tower coolers are almost guaranteed to beat blow down coolers. Includes RGB:

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GT-BK-Motherboard-Supported/dp/B074P3JCXX/

That cooler is fine but if you want rgb here is this one DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK, CPU Air Cooler, SYNC RGB Fan and RGB Black Top Cover, Cable or Motherboard Control Supported, 4 Heatpipes, 120mm RGB Fan, Universal Socket Solution https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P3JCXX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.JvODbWRVSN5K

Also buy thermal paste that comes in a tube syringe thing because the paste that comes with it is in a ketchup like package

Deepcool Gammaxx 400 GT: You have a lot of color options from them but also perform really good for it's price.

Artic Freezer 34 eSports DUO: You might like it's looks a bit more while being $5~ more expensive.

The DEEPCOOL GAMMAXX GT BK has nice RGB, it's easy to install and compatible with MSI Mystic Light. Not a top cooler but it does a pretty good job for its size/price, and it ought to be more than sufficient for your i3. It's 156mm high so make sure it'll fit.

I actually ordered a lo-profile cooler--but mistakenly ordered the wrong one. So I'm using the stock cooler. I'll spring for something beefier if you think it will make a significant difference...
This is the one I had meant to order: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9a-AM4-low-profile-quiet-cooler/dp/B075SG1T3X/

Yes, the Ryzen is the "5 2400G"

[edit] Feel free to recommend something you think would work better...! :)

This DeepCool CPU cooler isn't as sleek as the one you picked out, but it should definitely do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GAMMAXX-Cooler-Heatpipes-Compatible/dp/B0725SBNVV/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511761727&sr=8-5&keywords=Ryzen+CPU+Cooler

Or if you want to have the same style and form factor, Noctua has some really good fans and coolers (They're a bit pricier than what you initally picked though).

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9a-AM4-low-profile-quiet-cooler/dp/B075SG1T3X/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511762925&sr=8-4&keywords=Ryzen+CPU+Cooler


edit: both of these coolers are guaranteed to fit in the case. Under the features on the Newegg page it says the case supports up to 170mm, and the DeepCool cooler is only 120mm tall

Why not get the Noctua AM4 version of the CPU cooler and not worry about mounting brackets?

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9a-Premium-Low-profile-Cooler/dp/B075SG1T3X/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=noctura+cpu+NH&qid=1568042896&s=gateway&sr=8-13

r/https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-L9a-AM4-low-profile-quiet-cooler/dp/B075SG1T3X/=CRYORIG&psc=1

​

r/https://www.amazon.com/Cryorig-CR-C1A-cooler-XT140-Intel/dp/B00KDG48CC/=P704YNKS2V2T0HD0QRMT

​

Not sure if this is more of the style you are looking for but here are a few that might fit well in your case. ( sorry for the repost btw apparent the other link had referral codes or something that got flagged)

Noctua fans might do the job!

Here's one at $50, and here's one a bit pricer at $80. They should both fit your clearance height and I've heard nothing but good things about how quiet and effective they are

Noctua has a good reputation for having some of the best performing fans though they are a bit pricey maybe because of the demand for them if spending $20 or more per case fan is too much going for cheaper fan's wouldn't be the worse idea as replacing a fan is easier these fan's are pretty cheap and it comes with 3 of them Noctua also has some of the best CPU Coolers

Here's a couple of CPU coolers if they cost too much there's a couple others I can think of

Noctua NH-D15 one of the best coolers by noctua the FSP case may have trouble mounting this.

Noctua NH-U14S a more budget cooler but still capable might be a bit louder then the D15 the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

Dark Rock Pro 4 one of the most recommended CPU coolers I've seen at the moment probably because of it's price for a dual heat sink tower cooler the FSP case may have trouble mounting this

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Corsair H115i a very high end Liquid cooler it's expensive but it'll definitely get the job done might have better overclocking performance as AIO cooler's don't suffer from stark changes in temperatures with an air cooler you may see temperature spikes for example your CPU is sitting at 40 C and it jumps up to 50 C for a second and then quickly climbs back down this is pretty rare for an AIO Liquid cooler

with all the clearance issue's with the FSP case you could look into this case it would be wide enough to fit all cooler's I mentioned here while also not being too expensive

CPU wise, your should try getting something more powerful so you don't bottleneck your video card. I would personally recommend the Ryzen 3600x, which is significantly better than the 9600k for more workstation oriented actions. If you want to try out some overclocking, you should get this CPU cooler as well.

One additional note on the GPU choice - as PlaysForDays noted, the "standard" RTX 2080 performs only a bit higher (~10%) than the $499 RTX 2070 Super (Gigabyte 2070 Super as an example), but retails for several hundred dollars more. Its successor, the RTX 2080 Super can be found for $699-$730 (eg, this card, or this card), making it a smarter choice than your listed $689 Gigabyte RTX 2080.

Performance differences will vary from game to game, but essentially there's no reason to choose an RTX 2080 at $690 when for ten or twenty dollars more you can pick up an RTX 2080 Super. Conversely, dropping to a 2070 Super can save you two hundred bucks for giving up about ten percent in performance. For a build this powerful, I'd simply step up to the 2080 Super and call it a day. :)

The other observations about the motherboard are also valid. The Gaming X isn't a bad board, but it's not compelling when alternatives such as the Aorus Elite exist for a very minor bump in price.

For a CPU cooler, if you plan on using a traditional air cooler, go with either a Noctua NH-D15 or the Dark Rock Pro 4 from the irritatingly yet aptly named "be quiet!" They're both top tier, very high quality coolers with low noise fans which include mounting hardware for AM4 boards. They'll handle the 3900X's heat with no issues and you'll have some headroom for overclocking if you desire.

What's the difference between the NH-D15 and the NH-D15S? I can't seem to find this NH-D15 on PCPartsPicker.

This is basically the best air cooler, you wont be disappointed. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482287231&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+nh-d15

Highly recommend this.^

There are quite a few options then. This is considered one of the best AIO (all in one options) out there, but is about 20$ over your budget.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181090&cm_re=corsair_h100-_-35-181-090-_-Product

Meanwhile, Noctua makes arguably some of the best air coolers, if you can handle the ugly color. What CPU are you using currently? And is it overclocked/do you plan to overclock it?

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-Cooling/dp/B00L7UZMAK/?tag=anandtech01-20
edit: added the noctua cooler link

the noctua is on sale for $89 http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4FuGzbZVYB5A2 Works with AM3+ sockets. I have this, make sure you have a big enough case, cuz these are huge.

I am using a Kraken x62 for my 7700k. I like AIOs and this one looks great. For air tho which is not bad, Dark Rock Pro 3 is really good as is the Noctua Air Cooler

Congrats on your first build! Of course it depends what you are wanting to do. If you are strictly gaming you'll have a better system if you go for intel at this price point.

Personally I would go for an nvme ssd at that price point (especially if I can get it at $150):

https://www.amazon.ca/XPG-GAMMIX-NAND-Gen3x4-AGAMMIXS11P-1TT-C/dp/B07KZNTZYB/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=nvme+ssd&qid=1575146243&sr=8-4

I'd prefer the nh-d15 for cooling, though you might have to switch to lower profile ram like the corsair lpx to accommodate the second fan:

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D15-Premium-Cooler-NF-A15/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nhd15&qid=1575146493&sr=8-1

The x570 motherboard is overkill in my opinion unless you are interested in pcie x4 down the road. This board is $150 right now: https://www.amazon.ca/ASUS-Prime-X470-Pro-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07C57Q1XH/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=amd+motherboard+b470&qid=1575135581&sr=8-5

I might also consider replacing the case fans with noctua fans although this would push your budget up.

Wish I had gone with something more in line with what you have here with my last build rather than the 9900k / 2070 super I'm running.

My setup is a 4690k with gtx 970 and 16gb of ram.

Previously this was fine for the types of games I was playing (mostly War Thunder) but now I have bought CoD and Jedi Fallen Order I have noticed my CPU running consistently at 100% and giving me fps drops in both games.

I plan to upgrade my cpu (and therefore probably motherboard and RAM eventually) when I can afford to but for now I was planning on running an OC on my cpu to get a little more out of it.

My question is what CPU cooler would you recommend that would work with my current 4690k but also be good enough for my new cpu when I eventually upgrade.

I would like to spend less than £50 ($65). I dont care too much about noise or RGB but I would like it to not be obnoxiously loud or ugly.

Would a beginner like me notice the difference between something like this vs this?

My case is a zalman z11

TL;DR: Want to OC my 4690k but need a better cooler. Needs to also work for my eventual upgraded CPU

Okay first buy a cooler, your CPU is probably close to death if are overclocking with a stock cooler.
I recommend a https://www.amazon.co.uk/noctua-NH-D15-Noctua/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504613515&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+nh-d15

If you want the top it will set you back at least £1000 for it.

Core i7-6950X and the Core i7-6900K are the top two of the LGA2011-3 CPU's

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25TR9I2K7JKKI&keywords=noctua+dh-15&qid=1572211079&sprefix=noctua+d%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-3

Air: Noctua NH-D15

Water (aio): Corsair H100i

I'd recommend Noctua, they beat some aio water coolers.

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NH-D14-Heatpipe-Bearing-Cooler/dp/B002VKVZ1A/

https://www.amazon.ca/Noctua-NF-A15x2-Cooling-Premium-NH-D15/dp/B00L7UZMAK/

Everyone raves about liquid cooling because it looks cool but fact of the matter is that all in one liquid coolers have no performance gains over a good air cooler but they still cost more and have the chance to fail/break

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This is one of the best air coolers on the market: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=noctua&qid=1555038225&s=gateway&sr=8-3