Best crimpers according to redditors

We found 651 Reddit comments discussing the best crimpers. We ranked the 190 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page

Top Reddit comments about Crimpers:

u/ilikethefinerthings · 223 pointsr/cableporn

I only use the EZ-RJ45 ends now. Never going back to ones you can't push the wires all the way through.

I also use the special crimper designed to automatically cut excess cable off.

u/McDrMuffinMan · 136 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality. I'm also assuming you own a wire stripper.

Crimping tool(17$):

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7

Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers

Connectors(9$):

Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY

Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)

200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00

The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.

Total cost: 51$

Additional extras I'd recommend:

Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H

Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO


uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ


They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch

>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK

Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice

>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E

Same deal, has boots though.

u/ast3r3x · 21 pointsr/DataHoarder

These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.

16 AWG Guage Wire

Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)

Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)

Crimping Tool

SATA Power Connector

SATA Passthrough Cap

SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap

Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good

ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)

ATX Header Housing

u/firebirdude · 18 pointsr/CarAV
u/Ivebeenfurthereven · 16 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

don't worry dude, the other 99'11" of this line is still good, no need to rip it out

Something like this https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518894673&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+kit&dpID=51DjZejC9oL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch should have everything you need for under $15 - will sort you out perfectly.

It took me about 20 minutes to learn to use the tools, and now whenever I need a short cable I can just make one. Boot split and frayed? Who cares, I'll just replace that bad boy, no throwing out the entire run for me. Drilling through a wall to feed a cable outdoors, how will the plug fit? No problem. So convenient as a future-proof ability to have under your belt.

Unsurprisingly, excellent instructions for dummies like me are incredibly prolific on the internet, including lots of great YT videos

As others have mentioned the interference from multiple unshielded cables right next to each other will be slowing your entire network down right now (loads of dropped packets and failed attempts), so I agree this is more /r/techsupportgore than MacGyver. Fix this right and everything will be significantly less laggy, plus you only gotta buy cheap tools once and then you're set to be able to make incredibly low price Ethernet lines wherever you live for the rest of your life

u/da_kink · 16 pointsr/HomeNetworking

well, rj45 plugs and a crimping tool.
something like this.

Do check the outlets if they have been wired properly. Mostly they are color coded and should be either in A or B variable. Wikipedia has a list of how they should be put into the connector.

After that connect everything to a switch and it should all work automagically. But this entire setup seriously looks like someone wanted to link multiple phones to one number so I will say you need to check every last wallmount to see if and how they are wired.

u/LOOKITSADAM · 12 pointsr/homelab

I ended up getting these, trusting the crowd on this one. If all else fails I can probably make a return.

u/Enlightenment777 · 12 pointsr/electronics

The Engineer PA-09 is one of the best "small pin" crimping tools for hobbyists. They aren't dirt cheap, but they are worth $40-$50 price, which is cheap compared to official tools from connector manufacturers. I own a PA-09 and highly recommend it. If you never crimp the smallest pins, then a PA-20 or PA-21 might be better for you.

-----

Info about each crimp tool:

u/joebobcooter · 11 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Can't really tell from this picture, but alot of times, it looks like ethernet, but it ends up not being terminated correctly, or setup for something like voice only or some other non-standard thing.

If it were me, I'd make a small investment in the following;

  1. Some sort of cable tester - everyone has their favorite - look for one that can show you whether all the pairs are setup properly - http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-LinkMaster-UTP-STP-Wiremapper-and-Tester-62-200/100091453

    If you are lucky, whomever setup that panel wired it correctly, and the runs will test out. If you are not lucky, you'll need to take the next step and fix it yourself. This will require some more stuff;
  2. a standard punch-down panel - something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000067SC6/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bKkaDD_c_x_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=FGVJTXZ791HS9C3BHHBB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=b40f1c79-82d3-5987-b1fd-b5c357ef4906&pf_rd_i=306629011
  3. A punch-down tool - either a cheap one (https://www.amazon.com/CMPLE-Punch-Stripper-Voice-Cables/dp/B00NR2Z6MA/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-5&keywords=punch+down+tool) or one that is a little more robust (https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982800&sr=1-3&keywords=punch+down+tool)

    There are many tutorials on the web on how to terminate Ethernet - essentially, you're going to need to make sure that the wires are terminated properly on the punch panel (in your living room) to the specifics on the keystone jack at the far end. Most likely, the jack at the far end looks something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Keystone-Ethernet-Compatible-Connector/dp/B014RAT7ZC/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504982947&sr=1-6&keywords=keystone+jack

    If you get the connectivity right, and that cable has all the pairs (8), you should be able to connect, and be on the road.

    Not sure where you are located, but usually Fry's or MicroCenter is a good place to source these tools.

    Holler back if you need more info.
u/themoore · 10 pointsr/sysadmin

Yes! Use these all the time with great success. You'll need the crimpers to go with them as they cut off the extra wire.

u/fracto73 · 9 pointsr/DIY
u/tiredadmin · 9 pointsr/homelab

Ez crimps!

Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-RJPRO HD Crimp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_P7PCub1BEN0HC

u/combatchuck · 8 pointsr/cablefail

IT'S DANGEROUS TO GO ALONE!

TAKE THIS! AND THIS TOO!

u/z3niMAGiNE · 7 pointsr/cordcutters

I had acceptable but less than ideal performance with WiFi too. I had range issues on 5 GHZ wireless N and interference issues on 2.4 N (which I couldn't really attribute to anything in particular - it's just a crowded frequency). My house isn't all that big either (1750 sq ft).

I ran Cat5E. It was pretty easy even though it was my first time. I just watched a couple YouTube videos on making Cat5E and bought a crimper, RJ45 connectors, and a big box of cable from Amazon (they have different sizes so just determine how much you would need). I ran and terminated speaker wire, coax for my antenna in the attic, and the networking cable all in one afternoon. If you're considering going that route I would encourage you to do it, it isn't difficult with a decent crimper. Just watch a couple people do it on YouTube and print out a wiring diagram when you're terminating the cables. Make a couple short practice cables before trying to terminate on the cable you ran in the attic.

Before my computer and router were at opposite sides of the house and I was getting speed tests of ~20 MBit down; now with the cable I get ~120 MBit down. I have an Asus router on each side of the house so wireless coverage is excellent as well.

u/clackdaggers · 7 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Paying someone to run Ethernet is a huge waste of money. Even with buying all the tools and supplies yourself you will save lots of money.

In your situation I would go up into the attic then run down into the walls to your wall jacks.

Stuff you'll need: (not including drywall saw and gang boxes/gang frames to mount the wall jacks)

http://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network- Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464334&sr=1-2&keywords=rj45

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-19958-Steel/dp/B0017RAHSA /ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464421&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+fish

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/jacks-and-connectors/cat5e-keystone-jacks-25-packs

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/wall-plates/classic-keystones- wall-plates

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457464708&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=110+punch+down&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V001/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464781&sr=1-5&keywords=cat5

For around $165.00 you'll have everything you need. Less if you need less than 1000' of cable.

It's true that the cable I listed is not plenum rated but you're not going to be in the attic if your house is on fire anyway. I wouldn't worry about it or waste the money on it.

I've installed hundreds of miles of cat5 in my earlier career before switching to sysadmin stuff.

u/port53 · 7 pointsr/homelab

Cabling pro tip: get EZ heads and the specialized crimper. It's a little cost up front, but it'll make your cabling life so much easier.

u/r3dinsanity · 7 pointsr/Tools

Nevermind, Amazon show other crimps/connectors, makes perfect sense for low voltage wiring.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Professional-Compression-Ratcheting-Wire-electrode/dp/B00OMM4YUY

u/xTHANATOPSISX · 6 pointsr/CarAV

Good grief. That's bad. Please at least tell me there are fuses in those power wires?

You need to rebuild all of that. I'd get a new stock terminal from the dealer or parts store and get that part unfucked.

Then get these items...

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/battery-terminals/sp/bassik-positive-battery-terminal/

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/battery-terminals/sp/top-post-adapter-positive/

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/installation-accessories/crimp-terminals/sp/knukonceptz-tinned-copper-4-gauge-crimp-ring-terminal-red/ (times two)

https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0

And you might need a new battery, too, if that post has gotten damaged too badly from the cheap aftermarket terminal and all the beating on it.

u/JohnProof · 6 pointsr/electricians

Are you pre-fabbing the cables or will you have to crimp them in place?

Impact crimpers actually work surprisingly well. I carried one for years to me out of jams where I didn't have a crimp kit on the truck.

u/Steven_Mocking · 6 pointsr/cade

These are JST-XH Connectors. I perfer the crimp kits rather than splicing premaid connectors, but you could go either route.

u/IBEWjetsons · 6 pointsr/Tools

So your looking for something like THESE or THESE

I have both of these crimpers. The T&B's are my current go to's and i gave my Kleins to an apprentice, but they served me well for 15 years and still crimp as good as the day i bought them. The T&B 112(what i use) does insulated and non-insulated crimps and the 111 is non insulated only

Channellock also makes a very similar good quality crimper for a little cheaper.

ETA- Heres the channellocks

u/pogidaga · 6 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I can't tell for sure from the photos, but that cable is probably at least CAT5e or better, which is just fine for 1GB ethernet in the house.

You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

u/Sublimetribble · 6 pointsr/sysadmin

I use this one. My co-worker that also uses it has smaller hands than I do and it works okay for him

u/drnick5 · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

u/Phx86 · 5 pointsr/sysadmin

I have yet to find a punch down tool that's too cheaply made.

This is the one I had at my last job.

u/mikebald · 5 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Get yourself a punch down tool as it will make the wiring process much easier, also make sure the data cable is anchored somewhere in the box so it's not pulled free from those crimp connections.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D

u/Eisenstein · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

Yes that is a standard crimp connector. Just buy another one, strip the wire, and crimp it back on.

Measure the width of the connector. It is hard to tell how wide it is from the photo.

This set is probably overkill, but personally I can't get enough connectors and it comes with a (shitty) stripper/crimper if you don't have one.

u/Oh_Herro_ · 5 pointsr/Reprap

Measure the center-to-center spacing of the wire housings. If they are 2.54mm (.1") they are the JST XHP series as the other commenters pointed out out. Usually though, stepper connectors are the JST PH series and spaced 2mm center-to-center. These definitely look different though... is that a NEMA 17 or a NEMA14? Anyways if it's the more standard connection, it's a JST PHR-6 connector. These are the crimp pins that mate to the PHR-6. There are other ones for thinner wires, but you will want these for steppers. If it is instead what the other commenters have pointed out, you will want these connectors with these crimp pins. If you don't already have a crimp tool for thinner wires, I recommend these from experience.

EDIT- just want to add that if you don't feel you have a reliable way to measure the center-to-center spacing (like using calipers), you can always hold up a connector for an Arduino or similar, or an Arduino itself, and eyeball the pin spacing.

u/cworthdynamics · 5 pointsr/makerbot

1 - could be the extruder mechanism. I would replace the stock with something like this:
2 - could be clogged
3 - Yes - sounds like it could be the harness. The 2/2X have a stupid design where x- axis wire is held in place by metal pin, that or the flexing makes it go bad. Try wiggling while running to see if you can duplicate problem. The harness is stupid design as every stepper, endstop, etc goes to one connector on MB. After waiting forever for MB to send new one, they sent one with all the legs cut to wrong length. I ended up making my own which was better anyway. I found this site which got me started. http://www.extrud3d.com/x-harness

It took a while to figure out what I needed. Part numbers:

Digi-Key: CI16N-5-ND, MC16M-10-ND, HKC14S-ND, HKC16S-ND

Mouser: 538-16-02-0114, 538-70107-0038, 538-89400-0620, 538-16-02-0096, 538-50-57-9404, 538-50212-8000-CT, 538-87369-0600

Crimpers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Overall the 2X has been a struggle since the day I got it but I do have it printing pretty well now. I installed metal x ends and cooling block from Carl Raffles - worth every penny and I can successfully print PLA now.
https://shop.raffle.ch/

If installing Carl's block, use these extruders: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:256754

u/Start_button · 5 pointsr/homelab


Klein Tools VDV226-011-SEN Ratcheting Modular Crimper/Stripper/Cutter

I think you're referring to a punch down jack and a punch down tool.

Klein Tools VDV427-821 Cushion-Grip Impact Punch Down Tool

Klein are not cheap tools, but you get what you pay for. A pair of Klein's will last you.

u/I_Havoc_I · 5 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I use a Klein Tools crimper which has a stripper built can do RJ-45 and RJ-11. Also I use Monoprice Cat 6 bulk cable. The link you have is copper clad aluminum (CCA) which, correct me if I am wrong, dose not meet the standard.

Edit: Also the punch down I use is this Klein Tools version.

u/kidcharm86 · 5 pointsr/electricians
u/M08IUS_0NE · 5 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Hey all!

First off: THANK YOU!! Thank you to all of you for your profound interest in the project and all the questions! I enjoy sharing any and all information I can :) and thank you for my FIRST Reddit Gold Award! I never would have thought this would merit such an awesome distinction!

I've received a number of queries about how it was put together, different functions, the construction, programming, etc... so I will definitely be putting together a detailed break-down so that anyone interested can follow along and hopefully be inspired to create their own crazy mirror setup!!! Keep an eye out here for that! I'm hoping no later than tomorrow evening but it could be done before or after that. Stay tuned!


Edit: Here is what I have so far for you all!


- Materials

o Raspberry Pi 3 b+ - https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-Raspberry-Quick-Raspbian-Desktop/dp/B07JR3M7FY

o Raspberry Pi fan - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3TKBP/

o Breakout board (testing purposes) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KZY5P6

o USB 5V 3.5A Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE

o 64GB microSD card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCMBLV6

o USB Microphone - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3367

o USB Extension Cord – https://www.adafruit.com/product/993

o USB keyboard/mouse combo – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SW719NZ

o Raspberry Pi V2 Camera – https://www.adafruit.com/product/3099

o V2 Camera extended cable – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1730

o 4 ohm impedance speakers – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1669

o Speaker Amplifier – https://www.adafruit.com/product/987

o Stereo aux cable - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM-261-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O5H

o PIR-Motion-Sensor – https://www.adafruit.com/product/189

o Speaker mesh – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMBKNSS/

o Magnets – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SGKY3C/

o Drawer Handle – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-Edge-5-1-16-in-128mm-Center-to-Center-Matte-Black-Drawer-Pull-P34928C-FB-CP/303135233

o Monitor, 28”

o Mirror – https://www.twowaymirrors.com/acrylic/

o 18-22 AWG wire

o Wire Connector Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774NMT1S

o HDX 6’ Extension Cord w/ ground plug - https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-3-Indoor-Tight-Space-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-White-HD-158-007/202521667



o Lumber/Construction Material:

§ 2”x6” lumber (~200” long) (main frame/wall mounting)

§ 1”x6” lumber (8 ft long) (shelves)

§ 2”x2” lumber (8 ft long) (rear frame border)

§ Red Oak Veneer – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B1AR6E

§ Frame – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-WM-390-9-16-in-x-2-5-8-in-Oak-Chair-Rail-Moulding-73978/205923275

§ 1/8” MDF 2’x4’

§ 1/4” or 3/8” sandwich particle board, 2’x4’

o Construction Hardware:

§ Nails (for helping hold frame to wood while gluing)

§ Wood glue (secure frame)

§ Construction screws:

· #10 x 3.5” Construction Screws

· #8 x 2.5” Construction Screws

· Finishing nails

§ 3D printed pieces (custom 3D modeled and printed at home)

· Speaker/PIR/Microphone trim

· Camera trim/mount

· Speaker Amp/PIR/Microphone mount

· Speaker mount x2

· Pi mounting bracket


- Resources/References

o Raspbian Buster kernel – https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

o Magic Mirror 2 – https://magicmirror.builders/

o Modules: https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/wiki/3rd-party-modules

§ mmpm (Module Manager)

§ MMM-Face-Reco-DNN (Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-PIR-Sensor (Motion Sensor Functionality)

§ MMM-AssistantMk2 (Google Assistant)

§ MMM-connection-status (Network Connection Check)

§ MMM-pages (Multi-Page Support)

§ MMM-ProfileSwitcher (Multiple Profile Support via Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-SingleStock (Track one stock of choice [my case, Microsoft])

§ MMM-News (News rotating on a 10 second basis)

§ MMM-GoogleMapsTraffic (Traffic Map w/ pins at work locations)

§ MMM-Traffic (Commute time from home to places of employment)

§ MMM-Hotword (hotword detection used in conjunction with Google Assistant)

§ MMM-3Day-Forecast (3 Day forecast for home)

§ MMM-Weather-Now (Weather at work locations)

§ MMM-WatchDog (Watchdog application for lock-up protection)

§ planetrise (rising/setting of planets based on lat/long)

u/ampm24 · 5 pointsr/ender3

Crimping Tool Kit, Preciva Dupont Ratcheting Crimper Plier Set with 1550PCS 2.54mm Dupont Connectors and 460pcs 2.54mm JST-XH Connectors for AWG 26-18(0.1-1mm²) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R1H3Z8X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ux-PDbBQB65AV

You need a 2.54mm JST connector kit, like this one. Technically you only need the crimper and pins, but it doesn’t hurt to have the full kit. That one also has DuPont connectors which I used for my Pi. You can get smaller kits without. Crimping takes a little practice to get right, but once you get the hang, it’s easy.

u/mercenary_sysadmin · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Cable tester, RJ-45 crimper, jacket stripper, and 100 RJ-45 terminators:: $14

250 ft pull box, cat 5e cable: $21.50

Just make sure you get the color order right when crimping the modules onto the end of the cable. Getting the pattern right is not optional; just any old pattern won't do, even if they match on both ends. (Yes, really. It has to do with the way the wires are twisted internally, and avoiding "crosstalk" from one wire to another inside the cable.)

There should probably be a handy guide printed on the crimper itself, but if not, it goes like this: with the pins of the RJ-45 facing up and the retaining clip facing down, and the open end of the RJ-45 facing you, from left to right: white-orange, orange, white-green, blue, white-blue, green, white-brown, brown.

https://www.handymanhowto.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/TIA-EIA-568B-Ethernet-RJ45-Plug-Wiring-Diagram.png

You will screw up quite a few of these, most likely. Don't sweat it, that kit comes with 100 of 'em. Just make sure you cut your cable a few feet long to start with, and if it doesn't test out right, clip off the end you feel the least good about, crimp another one on, and test again. Still doesn't test out right? Then go clip the OTHER end off, crimp a new one on THERE, and try again.

You get the hang of it pretty quick.

u/kneedrag · 4 pointsr/Atlanta

You're also going to need a router/switch to stick where all those runs terminate.

You can buy the tools to do this yourself for pretty cheap and you'll use them in the future. Example: http://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450368467&sr=8-2

If you can match colors you can terminate network cables.

u/Warsum · 4 pointsr/homelab

Platinum Tools 100054C Clamshell EZ-RJPRO HD Crimp Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k2Z6CbXKTBCPQ

This is what I use at work. Great tool. Really heavy duty. But also a pretty penny. Work bought em and I can say it is honestly one tool that I have that's quality.

u/username_lookup_fail · 4 pointsr/techsupportgore

These things are awesome.

u/Corm · 4 pointsr/diyelectronics

I bought this one and some random bits for it (not sure what they're called, maybe pin housing?), and everything works great.

$23 isn't bad. The end result is worth it, and it's much faster than soldering for me

u/Judman13 · 4 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

u/frickensweet · 4 pointsr/networking

You would be better off making your own. I've found that a lot of the sets are cheap.

Here's my take on it.

1.Cable tester:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d
/B000P1OA1O?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645606&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

Simple cat5 tester, cheap and works decently.

2. Cable stripper:

Here I've given two options, one is a spinning stripper made for things like taking the jacket off cat5, the second is a more of an electrical stripper for a bunch of gauges of wire with cutters at the back side. If your comfortable with it you can use the cutters to strip just about anything.

2.a http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0099DIV4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412645735&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

2.b. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00080DPNQ?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412645735&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12

3.punchdown tool :
If your in a spot where you get to do punchdowns it's nice to have, they are cheap and work well,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KMFDZ0?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646040&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

4. Cat 5 ends:
Always keep plenty of these, a bag of them is cheap and you will be glad you have them.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003M5BIII?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646222&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

5: crimper:

Never underestimate a good crimper. I have had no luck with the cutting portion of them but that's why I have other tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0000AZK4G?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412646393&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

6. #2 philps head.
I like ratcheting screw drivers with multiple heads but this is easily the most used screwdriver in my set.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNK9MS?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412646575&sr=8-5#ref=mp_s_a_1_5

The flat head out of this set is also nice, depending on your bag keep them all handy.


Everything beyond this point is optional or situational.

8. Power supply tester: if you do any sort of computer repair these are very handy to hold on to.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001MKCALY?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412646902&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3

9. Tweaker: good for laptop repair or if you deal with any sort of building controllers/ low voltage electrical.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0058I6VNE?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412647026&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I also have a similar sized Philips head screw driver but I use it much less frequently.

10. Electrical tape: some people say it's for those who mess up doing electrical, I call it insurance.

11. Linemans: I use mine to crimp chicklets mostly but they come in handy a lot. I couldn't find the exact ones I use b

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000A0S4XK?cache=6447edf9df8336c37ffb445471642e6b&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412647275&sr=8-4#ref=mp_s_a_1_4


12: a bag:
Personally, I use an old back pack. I find its a lot easier to carry that along with a box of cable. This is entirely preference.

u/guriboysf · 4 pointsr/homelab

Get this crimper and the RJ45 connectors that go with it. You feed the wires through the connector and the crimper trims off the excess. Fuck doing it the old way.

u/drakus72 · 4 pointsr/homelab

Klein

Here is the one I use or close to it.

u/cycobiz · 3 pointsr/Trucks

> Splice them into your trailer wiring

That's what I did. I went up about 4" from the 7-pin plug, cut the necessary wires, used uninsulated butt connectors with a closed-barrel crimper and adhesive-lined heat shrink to splice in a 6-pin Deutsch DT connector pigtail, then built my own wiring harness that plugs into the Deutsch connector and ran it up to the headache rack.

Went with the 6-pin Deutsch connector since I only needed 5 of the 7 wires (LT, RT, Tail, Backup, and Ground) and 5-pin Deutsch connectors aren't available. Deutsch DT connectors are frequently used in the automotive aftermarket (probably more so than Delphi Weatherpack connectors). I know Rigid Industries uses them for their LED lights, and Smith Race Wire uses them for parts of their custom wiring harnesses.

Also, since you can only close-barrel crimp one end of the uninsulated butt connectors, I chose to close-barrel crimp the side that had only one wire (since closed-barrel crimping is more secure, and the one wire was looser in the connector) and used Channel Lock 909 Pliers to crimp the end with two wires.

Once you made your harness, make sure you slip it into some split wiring loom. Using a loom insertion tool makes quick work of that. Wrap the wiring loom with non-adhesive dry vinyl tape for a factory-finished look and to avoid a gooey, sticky mess in case you need to unwrap the wiring harness in the future.

Finally, a good wire stripper will save your hands a lot of fatigue compared to using a standard wire stripper that you have to always pull the wire through.

u/locutusofborg780 · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

First of all, does the wall plate in your office have just 1 phone line? 2 or all 4?

All 4 would be ideal, but you need at least 2 for this to work because Ethernet needs at least 2 pairs of wires.

Also if you only have 2 pairs of wires then you'll only get 100Mbit Ethernet. Gigabit Ethernet requires all 4 pairs.

This job would be made easier with a Tone & Probe kit (also known as a Toner). Simply plug the tone generator into the phone jack in your office, then go down to the basement with the probe and use it to identify the correct pair of wires.



Once you identify the pair of wires, you're going to have to remove all 4 pairs of wires (BlueWhite/Blue, OrangeWhite/Orange, GreenWhite/Green, BrownWhite/Brown) from the patch panel (the thing you showed in the picture)

It looks like you've got plenty of wire there to work with. Instead of crimping an RJ-45 plug directly on to the wire (and definitely DO NOT just twist the wires together), I would recommend punching the wire down to a surface-mount RJ-45 jack like this one.

You'll need a punchdown tool like this

As far as the jack in the office, You'll need to replace that too. You'll probably need to replace the wall plate as well.

Edit to make more clear

Only IF you have only 2 pairs of wires in the office

Then punching down the RJ45 jacks is a bit trickier. You still follow the [TIA-568B standard] (http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/ethernetcables.html) but you leave the Blue and Brown wires out (Pins 4,5,7 and 8).

It's going to be a bit confusing because the colors of the wires won't necessarily match the chart. Just make sure that you punch down each end of the cable the same way. Remember, you'll only be punching down pins 1,2,3 and 6.

Hope that helps. Good luck! :)

u/rudekoffenris · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Damn I didn't see the second and third pictures duh! So if you use that panel I showed you from amazon (or one like it, there's a lot of wires there) this may be a better choice.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Unshielded-Wallmount-Compatible-TC-P24C6/dp/B0000AZK72/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-7

This panel will work with cat5 or cat6, I can't tell what type of wiring you have there but you'll need that

You'll also need some way to mount it on the wall, I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Hinged-Bracket-N060-004/dp/B000E887XU/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=patch+panel+wall+mount&qid=1550278079&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Now with the patch panel, you don't need to put ends on the wire. You use a punch down tool and they go into little clip type things. It makes more sense if you look at the pictures. Here is a punch down tool:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=punch+down+tool&qid=1550278185&s=gateway&sr=8-5

you're gonna need some patch cables to run from the patch panel to a switch. You're also gonna need a switch down there to connect all the ethernet cables together.

To mount the switch, you're gonna need a rack mount (to look the nicest, and a 19" rack switch).

A nice mount I used is this: https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Vertical-Mountable-Server-Hardware/dp/B01M151AOJ/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=vertical+rack+mount&qid=1550278400&s=gateway&sr=8-4

and then a switch, something like this (which I picked more or less at random) https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-LGS124-Rackmount-Unmanaged-Enclosure/dp/B00H1OQBLA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rack+mount+switch&qid=1550278467&s=gateway&sr=8-3 will do the job quite well. It's a gigabit unamanaged switch. You can spend a lot more if you want to, but this will probably do the job.

So from there, you need a cable from switch to that box in the first picture with the ethernet ports on the back.

That will give you wired internet in the whole house. Adding access points from there is trivial.

I know it's a lot of information, feel free to ask anything.

Edit: That verizon box in picture 3 looks like it might be more than just a modem, it might be a modem/router. If that's the case you can plug that into the switch. But if it's just a modem, that won't work even tho the ethernet port will physically connect. The best way to tell is that if it only has one ethernet port, then it's just a modem, if it has more than 1 then it's a modem/router.

u/lipton_tea · 3 pointsr/networking

I agree, build you own kit. Below is my take. Know that some of those tools are not for every day use in networking, but who can resist getting more tools? Also, if you get all of these I realize it will be over $200. So, just use this list as a guide not a definitive list.

BAGS

u/is_not_null · 3 pointsr/networking

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-15015-Jacket-Stripper/dp/B000FI2RVC/

Best stripper ever made. Put it on. Spin twice one way, once the other way. In my 10 years of using mine, I have never had it even scratch one of the pairs, but it cleanly cuts through even thicker cat6a jacket.

Pair that with this, and a good set of electricians scissors and you are set.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G

u/dakupurple · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Not at all, making Ethernet cables only require a crimping tool and stripper for the male ends, and a punch down tool for the female ends. I personally use this crimper stripper combo, and I find that it works quite well.

u/drfrisker · 3 pointsr/motorcycles

You can use the cheap plastic covered terminals, but be sure to cut and ripoff the plastic shit first. Makes for an easier crimp and you can actually see the work you just did. I do use them from time to time as they are cheap as dirt. If you need them insulated just use some heatshrink after.

For insulated and non insulated butt connectors:

Klein 1005

And
These will work too (especially for spade and ring terminals), but not for insulated splices. They will also do a range of other automotive specific as well.


There is a molex tool that does insulated splices well too
-----

For most automotive terminals, especially small ones like for ECU connectors or sensor connections-

hozan p-707
----
For deutsch solid terminals

hdt-48-00
-----

For all crimping, it is best to get someone to teach you how as it's easy to destroy your first crimps by over doing it. Definitely good to practice too. Also very easy to not put enough force into the tool, and your wire will pull out. Also Just as easy to incorrectly size the jaws or dies having the same effect as under or over crimping. The same goes for terminals, many have few wire sizes they are designed for and will only accept.



My recommendation, get the p-707 if you're doing more than 2-5 vehicles of wiring sensors and ECU's. P-706 if you're on a budget and/or need a few more size jaws. Get the Klein 1005 for your butt splices. Between those two tools (Klein and hozan) you can pretty much do 95-99% of the crimps you need for a harness, cars specifically. You might need a few different tools for battery lugs and other big power connections.

u/NotHaraku · 3 pointsr/electricians

I just use klein's stakons.

u/BickNlinko · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Holy shit I cannot upvote you enough. I have a pair of these and I can't tell you how much time and hassle the EZ-RJ45 ends and crimpers have saved me. My cables come out perfect every single time.

Also , to answer the OP's question , I am never without my Paladin cable tester and my BlackBox toner unit. Both were pretty cheap if I remember correctly.

u/Tomacco_Fiend · 3 pointsr/networking

I bought a ton of them at a local store, so i can't vouch for the online stores i'm linking to, but here ya go!

They are called "EZ-RJ45"

Connector/Cable End

Crimper

Hope that helps!

Cheers!

EDIT:Amazon.com Link
Crimper (Connectors in suggested items)

u/cday119 · 3 pointsr/Miata

Here is a video I made demoing my NC Nexus 7 install. It is very basic now. I wanted to see how little I need to get audio working. It isw working better that I expected. Let me know what you think or if you have any questions.

Edit 1:
Parts and pricing(includes shipping) list:

u/JoshS1 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Cut out the damaged portion (pay attention to any wire markings or make your own if none are present) restrip the wire but stager the lengths​ so that the splices aren't all in one area. Install the splices then wrap in a self adhering silicone tape. When using the tape start 1 inch past where the insulation starts, wrap with 50% overlap until you reach 1 inch on to the insulation across the repaired area. The wrap should be tight and the first and last wrap sould be perpendicular to the repaired wire.

Edit: required supplies...

Splices with Crimper Tool

Silicone Tape

Quick Guide

u/livingplasma · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

I've gotten mine from Digi-Key, shipping can sometimes cost more than the items especially on small orders though. The Engineer PA-09 crimper seems to be the most recommended tool for the variety of micro connectors our hobby uses, I've only had issue with trying to crimp something smaller than Picoblade connectors like the break out connections on some micro FC boards or VTX's.

u/shiftingtech · 3 pointsr/voroncorexy

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

u/rich-creamery-butter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Not very. That crimper is made specifically for the PicoBlade series connectors from Molex. And at that, only one pitch of PicoBlade connectors (there are multiples) It will not work with all terminals in that range. Well, it might or might not but it's really a crapshoot. Molex crimpers are generally made for a specific set of terminals for a specific pitch for a specific connector series, and are not intended to be universal. Not sure if Molex offers interchangeable dies either, although I assume they would. BUT not all of their terminals use this style of crimper either. Some have entirely different form factors with different types of dies.

Also, if you haven't used a Molex crimper they have a spring-loaded button thing on the back that pushes a plastic piece forward between the open die, which holds the terminals. Check out this video. They are not universal either and each is designed for a narrow range of terminals. Molex makes dozens of different crimpers. You can fit other terminals in there sometimes but they won't hold well and will be too wobbly or too big. Some of the terminals require unique finished crimp geometries to fit in the connector housing, and so crimpers for them won't work well for "general purpose" terminals.

I recommend staying away from the OEM crimpers - as nice as they are - until you have a specific need for one or you need to assemble a ton of connectors. If you're putting connectors in something mission-critical or very hard to get to, it may be worth it to get the correct OEM crimper to ensure crimp quality. For most hobbyist purposes though - not worth it IMHO.

Instead, I'd suggest picking up one of these. So far I like it a lot more than the "engineer" crimper which I've also used extensively. The IWISS is actually a "combo" of 2 of their other crimpers and covers a pretty wide range of terminals. It will also crimp both wire and insulation in one step, and the die is sized differently for those portions. Much more convenient, twice as fast to do a terminal. The Engineer crimper requires you to first crimp the wire, then the insulation (or vice versa).

The engineer is OK but it's not nearly as good for small terminals. The clearances inside the closed die are quite large, terminals get jammed in there and misshapen or broken. Or the part sticking out of the die is bent by the crimping process. It's also not correctly toleranced for insulation crimping so you have to do it by feel or you'll just crimp through the insulation altogether. I've pretty much decommissioned that one. The IWISS has so far been very good, just squeeze all the way and done with good insulation crimping.

Of course, if you know you will only use that series of connectors and you don't mind the outlay for OEM crimpers, then by all means go for it. They are super nice to use so if you can justify it then more power to you!

u/tjb1 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

These may work? Engineer PA-09 Micro Connector Crimpers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Xn04wbW5PE1TR

u/myself248 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Engineer PA-09 is the only one worth having for those little guys. They have a thin jaw that works well on the really short-depth terminals, but this makes them annoying to use on larger (automotive and stuff) terminals.

For larger terminals (common "dupont" up to large automotive stuff), just get these and be done with it. They're the best and most universal I've found in yeeeears of horsing around with this stuff. Their jaw is too thick for the small JST stuff, however.

Those two crimpers cover 99% of the open-barrel terminals in the world, for roughly $100 combined.

u/wydra91 · 3 pointsr/PrintedCircuitBoard

There's a 50 dollar crimp tool floating around. I custom make all molex and jst harnesses on my fpv drones with it. They aren't amazing, and of you screw up you have to start over, but it works if you only need to mess with it occasionally.

Found it.

u/averoth123 · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

You'll need these https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K to crimp the pins if for some reason they are damaged.

I bought those crimpers and a box of JST-XH male and female connectors that are 2S-4S. You could also buy the connector with the wires and solder them back on but that is a bit too risky for me!

u/travsap · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Any ratchet style crimper would be best. The good ones allow you to set tension. Fluke or Klein. Edit Links.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fluke-Networks-11212530-Modular-Crimper/dp/B000E5VAXW

https://www.amazon.ca/VDV226-011-SEN-Ratcheting-Modular-Crimper-Stripper/dp/B002D3B97U

u/Griffun · 3 pointsr/CableManagement

You can just cut the cable before the RJ-45 port and replace it. No soldering needed for this job.

Grab one of these: https://www.amazon.com/OrangeTag-Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers/dp/B0055EXMII

And some RJ-45 ends: https://www.amazon.com/Generic-006104-Crystal-Network-Connector/dp/B008ZZ1NH6/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PTN1BNNRBHQ24TWE3NWK

And cut before the bad RJ-45 and then crimp the cables into your new RJ-45 piece. Follow the diagram for "T-568B Straight-Through Ethernet Cable" for the wiring order: http://www.incentre.net/tech-support/other-support/ethernet-cable-color-coding-diagram/

It's all easier than it sounds. Let me know if you have questions.

u/trm_90 · 3 pointsr/electricians

Yellow is color coded for 10-12 awg, it would be best to use an insulated crimper then. I would recommend the Titan Tools Crimper under $20, i have had it for over a year and use it nearly every week. It is ratcheting so it makes it easier to crimp and always crimps the proper amount. For a less expensive option you could buy the Gardner Bender Crimper under $10 or something similar. I haven't used that specific tool, but i have used hand crimpers and they get the job done, but you need to make sure you crimp the proper amount. Gardner Bender is a good brand, not top quality, but will last a long time and will work properly when taken care of.

u/drtonmeister · 3 pointsr/whatisthisthing

That one is a rotating die crimper, but I think "ratcheting crimper for insulated terminals" might be the search-phrase what you are looking for if 12-Gauge is your concern. Very common and useful for automotive use and loudspeaker connections where you want trouble-free installations.

e.g.:

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0069TRKJ0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TZRCD8G

u/TehSpaz · 3 pointsr/Tools

this is what I have for that style of crimp. It's fast, easy, and have yet to have one come off. The three slots are color coded for the gauge connector you're using.

u/Brino21 · 3 pointsr/techsupportgore

I'm gonna copy and paste my comment from a similar post. I didn't add something like a 110 block to the list cause at that point I feel it's a bit ridiculous.

As an 06 (low voltage technician) this hurts me to see x.x there are other options for repair that would be much better than this current set up. Here's a few methods;

  1. For under $5 you can get these [IDC connectors]
    (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Yellow-IDC-Connectors-25-per-Pack-85-950/100036034)

    basically you put both ends of the cut cable inside color for color then use pliers to push the yellow button down. If you're able to trim the cable a bit then you could maintain the twist going into these connecters (the twist is important) and it'll be a fairly solid splice. I believe their also gel filled so the copper won't tarnish. It has some protection.

  2. For around $20 you can get this punchless termination tool plus two cat 5e Jack's and a short patch cable

    This method would add solid connections all the way through. Even though you experience a little loss at each jack, it would probably be negligible for home use. You'd just terminate the two Jack's and plug them in to one another.

  3. For around $28-$30 you could get the [punchless termination tool] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ADWQHK6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uAArDbNF31QH4)
    One Cat5e jack and an Rj45 crimper tool that comes with Rj45 connectors (Ethernet plug ins) and a 4 pair tester you could use to verify you punched it all down correctly. The idea here is you'd plug the cable with the Rj45 termination directly into the Cat5e jack. It's similar to the last method, youll just have one connection instead of two.


    Spend any more than that and you're better off just replacing the cable all together.

    Keep in mind, I don't do these quick fixes professionally unless it's a matter of safety (a customer that deals with life safety calls, etc) and need to be up while replacing their data drop. The most ideal method would be to replace the cable entirely, but any of thes could work fine. Also leaves less of a headache for the next guy.
u/lvlint67 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I don't ever make enough custom cables to bother with much more than the standard cheapo. The mechanics of crimping are pretty simple. Find a brand name tool with a life time warrenty or just buy a couple $8 cheapos.

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487354206&sr=8-2&keywords=cat6+crimper That little yellow tool or something like it is the deal breaker for me when working on ethernet. (I assume we are talking ethernet.)

u/LancelotSoftware · 3 pointsr/Ubiquiti

Thanks for explaining. 1000ft of cat5e, a bag of connectors (and covers) plus the crimping tool and tester

Here are the links for exactly what I bought.

SolidLink CAT5e 1000ft Premium... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019POIH2E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Three Pack of Your Cable Store 15... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LYLGWSY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/wiccabilly · 3 pointsr/oddlysatisfying

Man, Amazon does not make it easy to search your order history. At least not when you order as much as I do. But I found it:

http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0

u/Th3pwn3r · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/beersykins · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

This is really expensive for a crimper, but the 'official tool' for those ends. It also slices off the passthrough bits when you crimp down. I had that crimper and the EZ ends at a previous job and the results were always positive and could even pass fluke tests super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM&pd_rd_w=WcQxT&pd_rd_wg=WPTyb&psc=1&refRID=C776B95H44EYJGZ5MECM

u/syntek_ · 3 pointsr/HomeNetworking

FYI, a punch down tool to punch down those jacks like in the pictures attached to the OP is a completely different thing (and different skill) then what you need to crimp down the RJ45 connectors on a patch cable.

It's much easier to re-punch down the jacks then it is to crimp some patch cables, but if you would like to get into making cables, I would highly recommend getting an EZ-RJ crimper like this one on Amazon. With these (and the special connectors), you untwist the pairs and pull them through the connector and then when you crimp it will cut off the excess. Makes things MUCH easier, especially when you are just getting started.

u/Livineasy629 · 3 pointsr/iiiiiiitttttttttttt
u/spartacle · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have this crimp, and the matching ends and find reasons to use it :-)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_zaZ7ybBS2ZV1W

u/douchermann · 3 pointsr/homedefense

If you're dead-set on terminating with male ends instead of punching them down, try this instead: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

More pricey, you need their special tool but it'll be the last one you'll buy.

Otherwise, do what everyone else said. Punchdown tool is like 10-15 online for a decent one. Jacks are cheap.

u/jlee755 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

There are a few things you'll need:

  • An ATX/molex pin extractor - This lets you push the individual pins out from the connector so you can reuse the connector.
  • A crimper - Unfortunately, you'll have to make new pins and that requires crimping. This is what I use.
  • ATX terminal pins - The newly crimped pins that you'll insert into the connector.
  • ATX connectors (optional) - If you don't feel like extracting the pins and reusing the connector, you can always just buy the connector. They're very cheap.

    I recommend checking out custom sleeving guides as they're essentially doing the same steps except that you're not sleeving. Here's Paul's Hardware's guide to sleeving where you can see how the pin extractor tool works (I forget at what time it happens) and pretty much the whole process of sleeving if you're interested. Here's a faithful FAQ to sleeving that can further answer your questions despite the fact that you're not sleeving.

    Good luck!
u/Ptopman · 3 pointsr/homelab

This is the crimper that I am using and its holding up very nice and works great.

u/robbob2112b · 3 pointsr/ender3

These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


Connectors and max current rating

Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

u/technomancing_monkey · 3 pointsr/DIY

That is a JST connector.

Since this is a gimbal and timing is super important, Id recommend clipping all 4 wires to the same length and re crimp all the connections.
I HIGHLY recommend doing a bunch of test crimps before re crimping those to make sure you do those right.

JST Connectors: https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-JST-XHP-Connector-housing-Adapter/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1491418207&sr=8-8&keywords=4+pin+jst

JST Crimping tool: https://www.amazon.com/Iwiss-XH2-54mm-Terminals-SN-01BM-0-08-0-5mm2/dp/B00YGLKBSK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491418309&sr=8-1&keywords=JST+Crimping+tool

How to Crimp JST Pins: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-pTsccCizA

u/jaifriedpork · 3 pointsr/Multicopter

You need to connect it to the main outputs, not the balance plugs. You can wire it directly to a pair of banana plugs, or a Deans plug if your charger came with the banana-to-deans cord that every other cord plugs into. You can use a 2S balance lead for the other end, (you can get rid of the center wire, you won't need it) or buy some JST-XH plugs and crimp up your own. (You can use pliers, but you really want to get a proper crimping tool for those.) If you wire it backwards, the charger will give you an error message, so it's not the end of the world if you get it wrong, just swap them. As I recall, NiMH packs are supposed to be charged slowly, 0.3C or so, but you should double check me on that, I've never manually charged one before.

Or you could use the NiMH charger built into your Taranis. That's an option too. :) I guess the QX7 doesn't have a charger? TIL.

u/Play_The_Fool · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

That method is a lot of work. I would recommend a pass-thru ethernet crimper. I use this one with the pass-thru RJ45 connectors and it's a breeze.

u/ugly_truck · 3 pointsr/cade

Try JST SM connectors. I bought a kit from amazon for under $10 here The housings do both male and female with the pins being the difference.

u/Darkdayzzz123 · 2 pointsr/techsupportgore

You can crimp ethernet cables quite easily - just need the end pieces and a crimp tool (this kit is GREAT)

Power cables can also be done but are a bit easier then Ethernet or telephone cables as they are just a positive/negative/ground wire into an end....pretty straight forward but I advise getting a cord that is already destroyed and working on it first...duh :P should just be copper inside colored tubes that goes to a specific end...typically red is power spot / grey or black is negative / and a completely different color is for ground - but that is a guess on my part as I've not taken one apart in forever as it is cheaper and faster to just get a different/new one.

Telephone cables are basically the same as Ethernet, just need to know the wire pin layout <-- that link is both RJ11 telephone and RJ45 ethernet layouts and its the same process (obviously need telephone ends to crimp onto it - that link has 50 to a bag).

Most cables are straight forward ESPECIALLY with the internet having the answer to cable layouts and everything :)

EDIT - once you do an ethernet cable crimp job everything else becomes very easy haha.

u/Ttylery · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

you can get a [kit] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008UY5WL0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
for pretty cheap and I got over 700' of cable for $20 on craigslist.

u/spencerak · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

I just got this, that look ok? And the 1000M lights up, so yea I'm betting it's his wiring....

So that pic doesn't do the the other two cables justice but neither have lights on their ports. So is it possible both of those were meant for phone connectivity and I need to hook up the two detached white wires to get data on my bedroom ports?

u/choob_nation · 2 pointsr/computertechs

If you're getting a crimper, I highly recommend the Platinum tools ez rj-45 crimper and ez rj-45 connectors. This has changed my cabling making game.


crimprer

cat 5e connectors


[strain relief, optional but look prettt] ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034B3KYU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_BLIrtb16NPMC2)



Platinum tool jacket stripper

u/toomanytoons · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Practice, practice, practice. Or more fool proof gear like these connectors and this crimper.

u/CVCPB · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/

These and this crimper.

I will never go back to regular tips. EZRJ-45 all the way. It says Clamshell but they are not, they're single piece tips.

u/PinBot1138 · 2 pointsr/homesecurity

This is the voltage detector pen that I was telling you about, /u/achstuff:

​

Klein Tools NCVT-2 Dual Range Tester, Non Contact Tester for Standard and Low Voltage with 3-m Drop Protection

​

These are the RJ-45 Ethernet jacks that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079K7XMGQ/

​

This is the crimper that I use (the wires pass through the jacks and then this cuts them)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU/

​

And this is the tester that I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQH4XPW/

​

I have some other tools which I can list, but this the base set that you'd want to use to get rolling. The nice part about these particular jacks is that their bin's outside label has the diagram for the T568B standard (which you'll want to use (assuming you're crimping both sides of the cable) unless you're trying to match T568A)

u/tyler212 · 2 pointsr/army

So being commo I know some good gifts for us nerds. I know you are going to spend some time making cables, so check this shit out RJ-45's that let you pull the wires though the RJ45. Well now that you got that, might as well buy the crimper with a cutting edge designed for those RJ-45's. I keep the Crimpers in a old PRC-127 radio pouch for easy attachment to my gear if needed too.

If you wanna feel like a cool guy with a gerber, but also need to run some cables? Well we got the Gerber Cable Dawg. Great thing about this thing is it has MAN's for you to get that supply guy who you have been nice too order them and comes with a MOLLE pouch to attach to your gear.

  • UCP: 5110-01-598-2253
  • Coyote Brown: 5110-01-598-2254
  • MultiCam: 5110-01-598-2248
u/tatertom · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Have you wired... anything before? You'll need to be able to terminate wire to do it, but that's not too big a deal. There's also a bunch of different ways to go about it, depending on who you talk to. My preferred method goes something like this:

Acquire parts:

  • 4 gauge copper stranded, jacketed wire of appropriate length to reach from starter to house battery, plus a little wiggle room, plus another section to go from house battery to frame.

  • an in-line fuse holder to go right off the starter battery positive

  • another fuse holder for the house battery, I like to use a triple-fuse holder, but you can just use another in-line like the one above.

  • 100 amp fuses for both

  • 4 gauge ring connectors/lugs.

  • some sort of isolator. Basic-tier manual, a dual-battery manual switch (intermediate), or something more automatic, like a voltage sensitive relay.

    If you can't work out another good way to crimp the ends on, just pick up a crimp tool along with it.

    Plan:

    You need to create a circuit from the alternator to the house battery. Circuits are loops; in a DC circuit (as most are on a vehicle), the magic power fairies have to come from the power source via the positive terminal, through the thing they're powering, then return back to the negative terminal of the thing they came from. Most vehicles use the body and frame as the return path for the fairies. The devices' negative sides all connect to the body or frame, and so does the battery or batteries, so once they get to a device, they can always get back to where they came from, whether they came from the alternator (grounded through the engine block/bracket), starter battery, or house battery.

    Next, you need to consider where each component will live. You need to connect positive to positive from starter to house battery, with all the other doo-dads in between. The fuse holders should be very close to their respective batteries. Like, less than a foot. I lay my starter battery's fuse right on top of the battery, so anyone working on the van later can't miss it, and should know to consider the rest of that circuit when appropriate. My starter battery's fuse is mounted right next to the battery. The placement of the isolator depends on what kind it is. If it's a manual type, you'll need to access it from within the cabin; I like to put my house battery and a manual isolator pretty close behind the driver's seat, so I can operate the switch from there or from within the cabin. If you go with an automatic jobber like the VSR I linked, that doesn't need accessed again except for troubleshooting, so it's common for it to be mounted near the starter battery in the engine bay. Either way, the wire will go from starter battery positive, through a fuse, through the isolator or VSR, through the house battery's fuse, to the house battery positive.



    There's two types of connections to make with the linked items: "set screw" and "lug". The fuse holders I linked all use set screws, and everything else will use lugs. To make a lug connection, you strip back the wire jacket from the end of the wire just enough so the remaining copper strands fit into the sleeve (and only the sleeve) on the lug, then crimp it down. The lug then gets a bolt through it to make its connection. There is typically already a bolt on the starter battery terminal somewhere, and this is where it will go, though both batteries' terminals will vary in their format. You may need an extra doo-dad to make it right. For a set screw type connection, you strip back the wire jacket as before, back out the set screw, put the wire in its hole, then tighten it into place with the set screw.

    Installation:

    Snip off a foot of 4 Gauge wire, remove the fuse from the inline fuse holder, then set-screw the wire into one end. The other end of the wire gets a lug, and goes on the starter battery positive. From the other end of the fuse holder, route it to a VSR (if applicable; install its additional ground wire to one of its mounting screws, into the body), then on to the house battery location. Here, it will go through a manual isolator switch (if you don't choose the VSR), then through a fuse, and on to the house battery positive terminal. The negative terminal of the house battery gets connected to the van body or frame with a couple lugs on as short a wire as possible; a seat or seat belt hole is typically a good ground lug - just remove the bolt, add your lug with wire already crimped on, and reinstall the bolt.

    Once all connections are made, you can go back and insert your fuses. If you chose the dual-battery switch, it has 3 lugs on it: a "common" lug, battery A, and battery B. The wire coming from the starter battery goes to battery A, the wire going to your house battery goes to battery B lug, and the common lug is for your load (aka, your devices). The switch has 4 positions: "A","B","Both", and "off". You can set it up other ways, but in this configuration, the first two select which battery power is drawn from for the devices connected to the "common" lug, the "both" setting literally chooses both, which means it also is the setting for charging your house battery, and "off" ensures the devices get no power from either battery, and that the batteries aren't connected to one another.

    Manual isolator operation:

    With the engine running, turn the simple isolator "on", or the dual-battery switch to "both". This connects the batteries, which connects the alternator to the house battery. If the alternator can charge it, it will (see "Caveats" below). When you stop running the engine, and want to run devices without draining the starter battery, turn the simple isolator "off", or set the dual-battery switch to "B". If you go with a VSR, this happens automagically for you, and you can forget I typed this paragraph.

    Caveats:

    The house battery isn't as close to the alternator as the starter battery. This introduces resistance to it, which comes with voltage drop. The alternator has a voltage regulator in/on/near it that senses the voltage of the battery (or batteries) it's connected to, and if that voltage is lower than its setting, it will kick on, and start charging, typically at or above 13.8V, maybe 14.1. An idle, full battery will read closer to 13V. A 12V battery is actually dead if it gets down to 12V; anything running on 12V accepts all these voltages, and so these systems are considered to run on "12V nominal", which is a range including all these. Anyways, from the perspective of the alternator or house battery, there is less voltage present on the far end than from the near end, due to the voltage drop over distance in the wire. So, the house battery never sees full charging voltage from the alternator, and therefor may never fill all the way up. Measure voltage at the starter battery while the engine's on and alternator's charging, then measure it again at the house battery. The difference between these two is your voltage drop, which should be in the 1-3% range. More or less, this is how short of full you can get your house battery only charging from the alternator.

    If you choose a manual isolator, you will get the most charging output possible from your alternator, and you can throw the switch to "jump start" yourself if your starter battery should die, but you might forget to turn the switch one day, and accidentally drain your starter battery. I simply make checking the state of the switch part of my van start-up and shut-down routine, and have only had a problem once. If you instead go with an automatic isolator or VSR, you won't have to worry about this, but your charging rate will be limited by the rating of the device chosen, if its rating is below the alternator's rating.

    Your power distribution to your loads still needs additional fusing. If you use the dual-battery switch, most loads should come off the common lug, through a fuse, and on to the devices. If not, then connect them from the starter battery, through a fuse, and on to the devices. Many people install a fuse block with multiple fused circuits to go to various devices; it needs a fuse in its feed that is as large as all the other fuses combined.

    Wondering why I linked a triple-fuse holder? It's a neat sort of junction for the house battery's positive terminal, where everything connecting needs fused anyway, and these particular fuses can need to be quite large, though different sizes. 100A alternator charge, 50A+ load distribution, 30A+ solar charge, or the big ol' honkin inverter I tend to install on my builds.

u/dotPhoenix · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Take a look at this wiring diagram. The only difference between this diagram and the maker select is that there is only 1 extruder and there are 2 separately wired z stepper motors. Both Z motors go here. One row for the first motor. The 2nd row for the 2nd motor. There should be stepper drivers in all the slots except the E1 slot. Your extruder should be on E0. The connectors you will want are Dupont connectors. Something like this kit will work. While you don't need this tool, it makes re-crimping the connectors a whole lot easier. You don't want each z motor on a separate driver as it will cause them to be out of sync. A multimeter is required to calibrate the vref on the stepper drivers. You can usually get one for less than $10. It requires doing some math and then checking the voltage on the stepper drive. Then you adjust the pot till the vref matches what you calculated. The motors will work at a higher or lower voltage, but it will not be efficient. A lower voltage will cause them to have low torque and a high voltage will cause them to produce excess heat(bad), noise, and torque.

u/gredr · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use this one which I understand is the one you linked is a copy of. I've only crimped <10 connectors (JST-RCY and dupont) but it works great.

u/Tylertooo · 2 pointsr/sffpc

mainframecustoms.com sells the molex brand pins as well as headers and quality wire for a good price. Go to Amazon and buy iWiss brand crimpers

You don't even need to buy wire, you could use the stock wires after you've shortened them. Just buy maybe 25 or so extra to get the hang of crimping before you start on your project.

u/artist508 · 2 pointsr/airsoft

Crimp with pliers and solder works but is ghetto. The crimper is dirt cheap compared to years ago.

Like you said; Deans is best.

u/pheneeny · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have these for crimping dupont connectors IWISS SN-28B. They work pretty good, my only complaint is that with thicker wires they don't compress the insulation enough to smoothly fit into the connector, so I have to touch it up with needle nose.

I think these are the IWISS version for the JST-XH connectors [IWISS SN-01BM] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019ARWWFY). Maybe I'll pick those up.

u/ermEmP · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

GeeBat 460pcs 2.54mm JST-XHP JST Connector Kit with 2.54mm Female Pin Header, JST-PH 2 / 3 / 4 / 5 /6 Pin housing Connector Adapter Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MCZE2HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_itnWAbBEMEXWT. These are the connectors you'll also need a crimper. You can buy the Amazon recommend crimper, or look for Engineer Pa-09 if you want something nicer.

u/PrimoasiaN · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics
u/tiny_tim_ · 2 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

18 for the heater wires.

Heater plugs are JST VH series.

https://www.amazon.com/JST-JAPAN-SOLDERLESS-TERMINALS-WIRE-BOARD/dp/B011CPHFLS/

Pins for the above plug

https://www.amazon.com/3-96mm-Connector.../dp/B00X772AXS/

 

All other plugs are JST XH series

https://www.amazon.com/GeeBat-JST-XHP.../dp/B01MCZE2HM/

Look around before purchasing. Those above links are just meant to show the size/type you are looking for.

You can 24 or 26 gauge wire for the thermistor or if using a prewired thermistor just use that.

Look into using silicone jacketed high capacity stranded wire. R/C models often used that type because it is made to be very flexible and heat resistant.

 

Also check that all the wires are crimped properly. Sometimes a connector may only be crimped to barely make contact with the wire and may loosen over time.

https://imgur.com/a/8PnOt

u/vandanna · 2 pointsr/homelab

Klein makes a pass-thru crimper that has the diagrams displayed on the side. Had one for modifying my father’s POE lines for his phones and cameras. Was a godsend.

https://www.amazon.com/Pass-Thru-Reliable-Klein-Tools-VDV226-110/dp/B076MGPQZQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=klein+pass+through+rj45+crimper&qid=1569184398&s=gateway&sprefix=klein+pass+&sr=8-3

u/zodduska · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I don’t but it’s pretty straightforward once you look inside the CST. I’d get something like this so you don’t have to reuse the connector inside, that way you can leave the old cable mostly intact Incase the new one has issues.

u/hellmoneywarriors · 2 pointsr/ErgoMechKeyboards

Crimping kit here:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R1H3Z8X/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_gs1JDbV0PC5KM

USB extenders were some AliExpress mystery buy, but you can find them.

u/Jehannum_505 · 2 pointsr/projectcar

A simple crimper is cheaper and will give you more repeatable and reliable results than a vise. That one's made in 'murricah, and it's probably cheaper than the vise.

u/drive2fast · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Just buy a GOOD crimping tool. Channel lock makes one. It has a tit that pressed a divot into the crimp. Make sure the tit goes in on the opposite side of the seam in your butt connector. After every splice try as hard as you can to rip it apart.

Bonus points for heat shrink style butt connectors. In exterior applications it may make a tiny hole in the side of the heat shrink jacket so after shrinking put a dab of dow corning7 732/733 in there. Never use DAP, it's highly corrosive

Using non insulated butt connectors and shrink tube with this tool is the best non solder connection money can buy.

https://www.amazon.ca/Channellock-909-Crimping-Tool-Cutter/dp/B00004SBDI

u/eager2beaver · 2 pointsr/DIY
  1. It wouldn't be permitted to wire it this way in new construction.
  2. Yes
  3. Yes

    Here is what I would do. The grounds in the box are all tied together with a [copper crimp] (https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Twist-Copper-Sleeve-Connector-Blister/dp/B00CTU6TI6). You can get those at any home improvement store's electrical aisle. I would leave the grounds like they are, and crimp on an additional single ground wire to the existing group. Use that new wire to connect between all of the switch grounds.

    Edit: Also, make sure to use a proper crimper for the sleeve - don't use a regular pair of pliers or something.
u/avidiax · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable

You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.

The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.

u/-Pasha- · 2 pointsr/electricians

Might want to check out the Channellock 909. Same features but only $18.

u/RealityMan_ · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

1 - They make a lot of variations of this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vanco-1-Gang-3-4-in-x-1-1-2-in-Hole-Hinged-Wall-Plate-for-Cable-White-120617X/205359407

https://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-Electronics-45-0008-WH-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00390IT7O/ref=sr_1_8?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1484761144&sr=1-8

Just do a search for "data wall plate" or "Multimedia wall plate"

2 - Not sure what you are talking about. Do you mean where your ethernet terminates and the networking gear will be? They make network boxes, but if space is no objection I prefer racks.

3 - Definitely punchdown. You don't need a different punchdown for cat 5 vs 6. There are 2 primary punchdown types (110 and krone). If you get the below punch down tool, you'll be able to use either punch down panel type. 6 is a little more annoying to punch down because it has the extra insulator in it, otherwise it's all about punch types.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1484761269&sr=1-1&keywords=punch+down+tool

u/AlphaAnt · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
  1. Can you elaborate on the snake question?

  2. You don't even need work boxes for low voltage. You can run ethernet to something like this. You cut the hole, then put this inside and it braces itself against the sheetrock. If you need to separate it from adjacent power, you can use something like this instead. My 1940s brick house only has 1/2" behind the plaster to run wires, so the first one was a huge help to me since even the smallest old work gang box wouldn't fit.

  3. Always use punchdown if you can help it. I haven't found toolless keystones to be terribly reliable. The keystones typically come with a punch tool that will work with them, but if you will end up doing it a lot you'll want something higher end.
u/afyaff · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

What's the extra PITA? I did a few drops of CAT6 in my house and it's not that difficult. All are successful in one try.

This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1472754190&sr=8-4&keywords=punch+down+impact+tool

Requires quite a bit of force but when it makes that slot machine sound, it works.

u/scottklarr · 2 pointsr/homelab
  • Wire snips - These Claus scissors are my favorite
  • 110 Punchdown tool - If you want to spend a little more, you can get one with a blade that will stay sharper longer. I've used both TrendNet and Fluke. The fluke blade lasts longer.
  • Stripping tool - Makes stripping cables much faster and accurate (once you adjust the blade to the cable you're using). You can just as well strip by hand, but always be sure to examine the wires to ensure you didn't nick them.
  • RJ45 Crimper - You won't need these unless you plan on terminating any cables with RJ45 plugs. If you're strictly terminating into a patch panel you can skip these.

    Other useful things:

  • Cable tester
  • Velcro
  • Label maker
u/AceBlade258 · 2 pointsr/homelab

If you used the plastic tool that came with the jacks, they suck. Push and wiggle (parallel to the groove) to get the connections to terminate; but be careful not to cut the wires inside the jack - as opposed to just the excess.

Or make your life easier. Though if it's one-time it may not be worth it. Note how the blade is only on one side with that.

u/bryan7675 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

As u/manarius5 point out the cat-5 cable is setup as phone; and you will need to change it over to network.

Best option is to get a patch panel, a punch down tool, jacks, 2x WAP; maybe this one. You might or might not need a switch, you might also want to consider going with POE to power the WAP. You would also want to get some cat-5 jumpers.

Please make sure your parents are not using POTS( plain old telephone); if they are, you can still do this, but would need to proceed with caution. Install new wall jacks, install new punch down block down stairs; when punching down, follow the color coding for A or B, dosn't matter which, just keep it the same on both sides. Move Comcast modem next to the location in your pictures. Setup the WAPs on either side of your house, plug the Roku in hard wire. This setup would use 3 ports on the Comcast modem/router, so no switch needed.

If your parents are still using the phone, only move the jacks to network that you are going to use.

A more advance solution would be to go with a wall mounted rack, Ubiquiti equipment for router, switching and WAPS, buy a cable modem and return the Comcast unit.

u/motodoto · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

Well I'll be the first one to give you generic information that you could have found with the search function.

You just do the needful.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/032194318X/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=IJFXHOHENJ2FH

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0321492668/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=I3J2AR8V86JZMD

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0596007833/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3IXCECMPTZ0C5&coliid=I2OPTI4J0S4UG2

Good screwdriver set.

https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/64-Bit-Driver-Kit/IF145-299

A network tone tester in case you need to map out your network and document everything. Also functions as a basic cable tester.

https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-MT-8200-60-KIT-IntelliTone-Toner/dp/B00N2S6RPY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473701817&sr=8-5&keywords=fluke+networks+tester

A punch down tool.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702091&sr=8-1&keywords=punchdown

An ethernet crimper.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-RJ-45-RJ-12-RJ-11-TC-CT68/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702137&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+crimper

A quick cable stripper.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Stripper-Cutter-Cables-107051/dp/B0069LRBU6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702190&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+stripper

A usb hard drive dock.

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-External-Duplicator-Function-EC-HDD2/dp/B00IKC14OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702021&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+hard+drive+dock

A notebook.

https://www.amazon.com/Rhodia-Meeting-Book-Made-France/dp/B001DCDSW6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473702220&sr=8-1&keywords=rhodia+meeting+book

Your necessities may vary, this applies to more of a one-man shop, and there's plenty of other things you'll want to get that I don't have listed here depending on your job.

I dunno how much you should get paid.

u/KingdaToro · 2 pointsr/Fios

Just FYI, it's just an Ethernet jack. There's no such thing as an Ethernet splitter, because Ethernet uses point-to-point links only. The thing to use when you have one Ethernet connection and need more is a switch.

That looks to be a standard punch-down Ethernet jack. Get a punch-down tool. Remove the cover from the jack. The jack will have labels indicating which wire goes where for the A and B wiring schemes, note which was used. Pull the wires out. Move the cable to its new location. Trim the wires back a little so you aren't punching down the same bit of wire a second time. Put the wires in the jack's slots according to the same wiring scheme you noted earlier, and punch them down. If the tool has a cutoff blade, make sure it's facing away from the center of the jack so you're not cutting off wire you just punched down.

Also, the tech did a HORRIBLE job of terminating it. A properly punched jack should have the cable looking like this witht he cable entering from the back center of the jack and the individual wires being as short as possible.

And disregarding the horrible job he did of it, installing a jack is absolutely the right way to do this and certainly does not make him an idiot. The alternative would be to crimp a RJ45 plug onto it, which is much worse. The plug wouldn't fit through the hole either, can't be reused if you cut it off, and is much harder to install properly than a jack.

Also, keep the tool. Being able to run and terminate your own Ethernet is always a good thing. You've probably got quite a few devices that stay put (i.e. game consoles) that are on Wi-Fi but could and should be on Ethernet instead.

u/gpraceman · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Here's what I have found handy around the house:

  • Diagonal cutters
  • Punch Down tool
  • Cable Tester. Though, they do have a version that also has a tone generator.
  • I just got this RJ45 crimper but I am not sure that I like the pass through plugs. Hard to keep the wires in order when putting them into the plug. I still have my old RJ45/RJ11 crimper as a fallback.
  • Stripping tool. I use this to remove the cable jackets, but it also comes in handy for terminating coax cables.

    I think the odds of me crimping RJ11/RJ12 are pretty slim, so I don't worry about that ability.
u/haggis444 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

All you need is a (cheap) punch down tool and some sort of a patch panel. It's really not that hard. If you have to pull any insulation back you might want to use a stripper. But you can probably just get away with small dykes. Just try and keep the twist as close to the punch down as you can---but it doesn't have to be perfect to work.

Also, there are two wiring standards 568A and 568B. They have to match on each end so you might want to pull one of your wall jacks to see how it is wired. Just Google for a wiring diagram to see the difference. Or your jack and panel might actually have both color coded on them and you can see which way they did the jacks.

I aways have used the B standard. IIRC the A standard provided backward compatibility with old AT&T standards. But if your jacks are A I would not change them to B.

u/ayearago · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

This is a selection of what I keep in my tech go-bag. You'll build your kit as you learn and build experience, or realize you could have helped a customer out of a jam quicker if you had that tool with you.

u/darthgarlic · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

Do you live anywhere near Phoenix?

If not they are not difficult. The ends are just keystone Cat(x) jacks that go into a wall plate.

You might borrow or buy a punch tool to make the connection.

u/DaNPrS · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking
  1. No. Crimping Tool is used to terminate a cable. A Punch Down Tool is used to terminate a keystone jack/wall plate or patch panels.

  2. If you use an unmanaged switch (which you probably should), yes it's pretty much plug and play.

  3. All the ethernet runs need to plug into the switch, where it is, is up to you. What you've described would work fine. But why not move the modem too while you're at it?! What's stopping you from running the coax from the cable company to said office?! I'm suggesting that you keep all equipment in one place.

  4. That's up to you. This has a hole in the ceiling, wires to the patch panel, then to the switch, then to the router. Or you can get a couple of wall plates. If it's a closet, I'd go with the patch panel.

  5. Any physical obstruction will impair the wifi. Hence I suggest making a couple of runs to the ceiling, one up one downstairs and installing APs. You wifi will never be the same.

  6. Your router does not have enough ports for the runs you're making. Yes, you'll definitely need a switch.
u/welcmhm · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I had Cat6 run in my house a few years ago and had the electrician run one end into a closet and leave them unterminated. I patched them to this patch panel myself (even though I have nearly no electrical or wiring experience) using this punch down tool. It's a bit time consuming, but not hard at all. You can wall mount or rack mount (this is what I did) the patch panel then run short cat6 patch cables from the patch panel to your switch. If you do it yourself, be sure the electrician leaves a few extra feet on the unterminated end in the closet, just to give you some flexibility, and that he or she lets you know which standard was used on the terminated ends (since there's an A and a B standard and you'll have to know which to use on the patch panel).

u/kc8flb · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

If you are running CAT cable around the house, you will probably want to run all the cable to a common point where they can connect to your patch panel, switch(es), servers/NAS and routers. Most people locate this place out of the way in a basement, to hide the clutter.

If you are running CAT cable you should really use CAT6A which is certified for 10G speed. CAT6 is not a standard. CAT6A is. I used shielded CAT6A. You should buy a spool of solid CAT6A wire that you can cut to specific lengths.One end gets wired to a keystone jack that is usually mounted in the wall of where you need to connect something. The other end is wired to the patch panel. The patch panel has normal jacks that you would use with regular premade patch cables to connect to switches which then connect to the server/NAS/router, etc.

Examples and tools needed:
CAT6A structure cable: https://www.firefold.com/064-series-cat6a-shielded-cable
Patch Panel: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQL46TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Small Rack to hold patch panel and switches (servers would need bigger rack):https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VDPBXM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
keystone jacks: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CLVAJCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wall plate mounting bracket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JQL0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Keytone wall plate cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVUPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tools:
Punch down tool:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AZK4D/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
LAN Cable tester: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OUFX38W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1



u/Emerald_Flame · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Extremely easy, you just need a crimp tool and a couple extra heads.

Then just follow a wiring diagram.

(Some are wired differently, if you have it plugging into a switch or a router, just make sure the order matches the order on the other end of the cable)

u/willrandship · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

To clarify:

A switch will several ethernet ports. One of these is an "uplink" port, and the rest are for your devices.

If you connect the "uplink" port to something that would allow a computer to connect to the internet, it can provide that to everything else plugged into it.

A switch doesn't provide internet access or wireless connectivity on its own.

I would recommend:

  • Take the plug out of the keystone
  • Plug it into the "Uplink" port of a switch. (Many new switches have auto-uplink, which means it doesn't matter)
  • Cut off the cancerous mess of wires. They're hooked up completely wrong (which is the main reason it got crossposted to /r/cablefail - it definitely belongs.) Just cut back to where you have plastic sheathing again and start fresh.
    • For whatever reason they thought they could just hook all the same colors together. That doesn't work. There are a few tricks you can pull with different pairs, but this definitely isn't one of them.
  • Use an ethernet crimping tool like this to attach RJ-45 jacks like this to the wires, using this wire arrangement.
    • You can find these at most larger hardware stores, like Home Depot or Lowes. Look in the electrical wiring sections.
    • Don't strip the wires before putting them in the jack. The crimping tool pushes small spikes through the sheathing into the wire.
  • Plug all the freshly crimped cables into the ethernet ports on the switch.

    The only possible reason I can think for this arrangement is if those were supposed to be phone lines, which work completely differently and usually use a different plug. (Many businesses do use RJ45 and cat5 for phones, but they don't do it quite like that)

    If you draw out the layout for how your network should work, it should look something like this:

  • Router
    • Devices connected directly to router
    • Switch, through wall cable
      • Wall Jack 1
      • Wall Jack 2
      • etc.
u/usrlib · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I just bought a Rosewill Gigabit card for $10. Works great. I also bought a cheap 8-port Gig switch, stress boots, RJ-45 terminators, and a pair of crimpers. Someone had given me most of a box of Cat5e. So, for something like $80 I ran Gigabit Ethernet in my crawlspace and now have a fat wired LAN in addition to wireless. It makes backups and streaming HD movies fly.

u/Compupaq · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I recently bought a crimper and tester. They're kinda on the cheap end of tools, but they work well (at least the crimper does, I only used the tester once).

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P1OA1O/

u/zyck_titan · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Crimper $15

Connectors $7

Snagless Boots $6

Outdoor CAT5e $50

Cable Tester $8

Charging all your neighbors to wire up their Ethernet for $50 bucks a pop: Priceless.

u/AedandoRL · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

Sure thing!

These are the RJ45 heads I bought off of amazon.

These are the 6ft USB A-B cables I bought off of amazon.

This is the crimp tool I used.

If something isn't working, give me some pics and I can try to give some guidance or make a video tutorial.

u/_Skylake_ · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

> SGD155BR

That seems to be a specific tool designed for you marine guys. That's out of my field, I'm not going to google chase for anything like it.

>PWCS7CF

I now see we're playing your game haha. It's a rather wierd breed of stripper.crimpers. Nonetheless, OTC makes a pair like them for $18 on Amazon. Lifetime warranty. They also make a angled version you might be intrested in. SnapOn doesn't list this on their website anymore, but the PWCS7CF sells for ~$60 online. So, The OTC are $42 cheaper.


>TLL72

Craftsman, but still good enough to make money with. SnapOn MSRP is $111. That Gearwrench is $26. $85 in savings by going Gearwrench.

> 137ACF



Easy enough . SnapOn MSRP is $41. The Klein one is $16 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $25


>29ACF

Easy enough. SnapOn MSRP $62. Klein tool is $30 with lifetime warranty. Savings of $32.

Between the 4 tools I compared, the other options saved a total of $184. Same quality as SnapOn? Maybe not on all, but probably yes to some. All of them come with life-time warranty, and not not shit tools and are considered /r/buyitforlife items!

u/AAA515 · 2 pointsr/Tools

I use a Klien multitool and they work perfectly

If I had to buy everything again, I'd get a smaller stripper and a crimping pliers because the multitool is kinda long and awkward crimping under cars.

u/wheresmyhouse · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-EZ-RJ45-Crimp-RJ-11/dp/B00084Y1ZI

https://mcb.berkeley.edu/labs/krantz/pdf/guide_to_crimping_cat5_cat6_connectors.pdf

On the one hand the connector itself is a pain in the dick, but on the other hand it is nice to have a modular connector that you can actually repair on the fly.

u/akcoder · 2 pointsr/sonata

Its easy! Buy this cheap wire crimp kit.

Take off the driver door kick plate (should just pop up, they are usually held in with Jesus clips). Then you pull the rubber trim off from the kick plate to the head liner. Install your dash cam. Then hook the USB mini-b end of the 12v adapter to the dash cam. Tuck the wire up along the top of the head liner. Carefully feed the wire under the top of the trim in the a pillar. Then carefully lift the side of the a pillar trim and continue running the wire down the inside lip until you reach the bottom of the trim. Be careful as the side curtain airbags are in the pillar. Using a soft piece of plastic, pry off the side panel of the dash, this will be held on with more Jesus clips. This will allow you to run the wire under the dash and into the fuse box.

Use a red butt connector to crimp the add a circuit lead to the red wire on the 12v adapter. Then crimp a red ring terminal to the black wire on the 12v adapter. There should be a bolt under the side panel that you took off, take that off and put it through the ring terminal and then reattach. This is your ground point. If there is paint under where the bolt was, scrape it off so you can get a good ground.

Find a 10a fuse in your fuse panel, pull that out and put the add a circuit in that spot filling the blank spot on the add a circuit with the fuse you removed.

Turn your car to on (do not start) and you should see your dash cam fire up! Now look for any sharp points along the way that the wire could rub on and wrap them with some electrical tape and button things back up!

Should take you < 20 minutes.

u/thatoneguy229 · 2 pointsr/CarAV

Would this be okay?

u/gehzumteufel · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

As cougar618 already mentioned, you will need to remove the old stereo anyway to install any sort of auxiliary port. As such, do not bother messing with it. Get a new head unit.

You can get this Pioneer headunit for $100 from Amazon. Then you will need a mounting kit and a harness adapter. The harness adapter AND the stereo harness that will come with the headunit, are labeled on each wire. Connect all the matching wires, and leave the rest alone. Plug the antenna wire into the headunit, and then install new stereo into hole.

edit//Forgot something. Since you're a n00b, go to the local Autozone/parts store/Radioshack and get one of these. It has some very basic electrical things that you will want to use to make sure you get good connections from the wires. Twisting them together and covering with tape is a bad idea. They don't hold up very well. Use the butt connectors that crimp on both sides where each of the wires come into the connector. This will be a pretty permanent solution, but you will have no worries of it coming loose.

u/MaIakai · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

another LPT: engineer crimpers are a thousand times better than the ratcheting style. But double the price, and yes you need two to cover every style of crimp out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K/
https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U/

vs cheaper ratcheting
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4L8QMW/

u/natermer · 2 pointsr/ebikes

>the display shows me that it actually is pulling 1300W instead of the 1000W this set is supposed to-not sure the battery likes that lol

This is normal. Motors are rated based on continuous output. But traction motors are not used continuously, instead the power comes in shorter bursts. So you can push more power through them then their rating and still be fine.

The real limitation on motors is heat, not wattage. This is why statorade is a nice upgrade for DD hub motors. Keeps them cooler for longer. Allows the user to push more more torque and better hill climbing performance.

>fucking. spare.air.tire nothing ...now smooth riding with the stock chinesium tire that was laying around (still no spare nothing) löl :)

First upgrade: Toolbag with spare innertube, patches, and hand tools. A bicycle multitool is cheap. Throw in there a adjustable wrench for the bolts on the rear tire and you are golden.

I like the type that fit on the top tube just behind the handle bars. They have ones that will allow you to put your phone into a water proof pouch. Pretty handy if you like to use it for navigation and tunes.

​

>light is a bit of a problem...need more for winter season on trail...for streets this Lifebee is ok

Second upgrade: Get a super bright light for trails and keep your Lifebee for streets so you don't go around accidentally blinding people. :)

​

>the grips-handle whatever you call them are stinking like fucking filthy plastic trash!!1

Third upgrade: Switch over to a thumb throttle (if you don't already have one) and get those big fluffy foam handles.

Either that or wear gloves. :P

>have to switch to new bike grips and thought about diy fumbling my own thumb gas out of the rock shock compression lever ?! would ne nice and undercover :)

They have a very nice 'low profile thumb throttle' that I like a lot. It's pretty stealthy and can be used on either side of the bike.

https://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/throttles/t-lever.html

https://www.amazon.com/Throttle-Handlebar-Control-Electric-Scooter/dp/B0773H9QDL

I don't know if that is a good one or not or if there is any real differences between these other then price. I don't have one, but my next one will be one of those.

>anyone ever done something like this ?

I have swapped throttles. It can be a bit of a chore to keep track of the wiring since each kit is always a bit different and there isn't any real standardization. It helps a lot to write down on a piece of paper what each wire does what and take pictures clear before making any changes.

On most of the things I upgraded on my cheap kit I ended up cutting off the original connections and replacing them with my own.

Used this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AVVO7K

with these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074LVGVTY/

to make these:

https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#jstsm

But there are probably easier ways to do it.

u/_81818 · 2 pointsr/arduino

Just some crimpers that are the right size. I use these which I actually bought for the JST connectors until I gave up on them. You can maybe get by with other cheaper crimpers.

u/Loomy7 · 2 pointsr/diyelectronics

I'm surprised this hasn't been recommended yet. This is the crimper I use for all my hobby work: https://www.amazon.com/Engineers-Precision-Crimping-Pliers-Pa-09/dp/B002AVVO7K

u/danringer · 2 pointsr/MouseReview

I just bought crimpers to rewire the JST connection directly.

Engineers Precision Crimping Pliers Pa-09 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002AVVO7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m12SDb2BAZ1TE


US $0.65 7% Off | 100pcs/LOT 2.0mm terminal Wire Cable for Housing ph2.0 2mm Female Male Connector for ph2.0 multiple pins
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/pajnmVWY

u/mudonjo · 2 pointsr/PCSleeving

I recomend getting one of these,should be available from amazon ger https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U

If that one is not available mdpcx has excellent crimper.You can also get sleeving from them

If you want to go full budget get paracord from ebay,heatshrink from local electronic shop or something along those lines.

I recomend getting atx terminals from ebay or ali just watch out that they MUST have long tabs(thing that go into cable).When i ordered some connectors i got extra pins which have sjort tabs and cant grip the cable good enough.

Connectors also from ebay/ali.Pm me if u want to know something morw

u/david278te · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Use a multimeter and check the voltage of your "fried" stepper driver. Connect + to the potentiometer and - to the psu GND or any other GND really. If it returns no voltage, then it is fried. If it returns a voltage, try the same on a stepper driver that you know works. If the voltages are roughly the same then they're tuned. If not, then adjust the one you thought you fried to the voltage of the stepper driver that works.
Personally, I've never been a fan of embedded stepper drivers, it isn't very future proof, not to mention many boards that come with embedded stepper drivers use cheap a4988 drivers. If you need to replace your board, the cheapest solution would be a ramps 1.4 + Arduino mega. An all in one solution would be something like the MKS GEN V1.X boards, like the v1.4. The advantage of the ramps over the MKS board is that if you feel you don't have enough computing power, or you want to add more features to your printer, you could always buy a Re-Arm and use it as a substitute for your arduino mega. You may need a crimper, and a set of DuPont connectors to make connectors fit though, whichever board you pick. I recommend the Engineer pa-09. As for stepper drivers, you can use A4988 drivers, but DRV8825 drivers are a bit better. One thing to note, is that shipping from china usually takes 3-6 weeks, if you need stepper drivers sooner than that, I have like 6 spares I could sell you.

u/Mystery_Hat · 2 pointsr/cableporn

Currently these are the tools I use... Mostly Klein. I've been using these for a few years now with minimal issues...

Crimper

Punch Down

Side Cutters

Scissors

Stripper

Lan Tracer / Tester


u/scalyblue · 2 pointsr/techsupport

For 80% of hardware work you just need a good, solid multi-tipped magnetic screwdriver and a pez dispenser full of excedrin.

Toss in a power supply tester like a Dr. Power II and you have nearly all hardware tools you need.

Just be aware that many software tools on Hirens are only licensed for personal use, using them for professional use would be a violation of license agreement.

If you're going to be checking networks, you're going to want a good fluke toner, and a fluke voltage tester so you don't kill yourself

You're also going to want a cat5 crimper that won't break

If you're troubleshooting big networks then pick up a fluke microscanner II, but only if it will save you several thousand bucks in effort.

u/bassmadrigal · 2 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

$5 is expensive?

u/Eagle19991 · 2 pointsr/cade

Crimping will work, its not that hard to do, just gotta make sure you have enough leverage on the tool to get the connector attached, a tool like this makes it pretty easy to get it done: https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483233152&sr=8-2&keywords=crimping+tool
I would normally recommend soldering the ends on to the connector and heat shrinking. I hate seeing soldered connections directly to the switches so I would never say to do that, but sounds like you should start with crimping and see if that works out.

u/fdsafdsafdsafdaasdf · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

I was in exactly the same place ~a year and a half ago. If you don't mind a little effort, I think it's totally worth DIYing this so it's less mysterious. You'd be surprised how many things are thrown away because e.g. the power cord is damaged.

If you're going to the hardware store, just bring the terminal with you and match it up by eye, if you're sticking with Amazon, you can buy an assorted pack like this to have your bases covered. Then you'll need a crimp tool (like this) to actually attach it. If you're stocking up you can get some cheap wire strippers, but in a pinch you can use a knife or even scissors. As u/vp3d said, these are all run-of-the-mill things that should be both cheap and readily available. When you're done, put them all in the same box so you can find them next time you need them.

Measure out the length of wire you need (leave extra, especially on the first end), strip off the insulation far enough that the connector can fit on (but don't leave it bare outside the connector), stick the wire in the connector, match the color of the insulation on your terminal to the color on the crimper, and squeeze! While it's possible to screw up, you can just snip off the terminal and try again. Worth googling quickly, but the only real thing you need to worry about is that the crimp is decent (look up images of good and bad) and that it's secure - you should be able to tug on it and not have it budge at all.

Talking to prusa support and getting another set is also a very reasonable option, but doesn't come with near the same sense of satisfaction.

u/pnapod · 2 pointsr/electricians

Well I won't be using crimpers intended for uninsulated terminals on insulated terminals.

It just seems like to keep there isn't much of a difference between heat shrink and normal nylon insulated terminals.

Here is an example of what im looking at:

Heat shrink:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKJSNS7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PkqSBb9NG7Z5H

Nylon insulated:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_moqSBbS3MZWRJ

u/djgizmo · 2 pointsr/fightsticks

This one.
Titan Tools 11477 Ratcheting Wire Terminal Crimper Tool for Insulated Terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069TRKJ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WhCZDbV7P6FNJ

Doesn’t crimp the blue too well. I Have to crimp blue connectors down to the red but other than that works great for red and yellow connectors.

u/77ticktock · 2 pointsr/CrownVictoria

No worries, you've got a good mindset to learn and no time like the present.

I'll add that most swear by solder and heatshrink + electrical tape. This is nice once you're really acclimated but you'll likely end up reconnecting things several times as you tinker and expand. I'll list below my couple of absolute favorite things I've picked up over the years and why I bought it:

Ratcheting Wire Crimper-- Can't tell you how many crimps have failed just because I didn't apply enough force. The ratchet ensures you get that final click down.

And a pricier ratchet I invested in over time-- Nice because it's more modular but not needed.


Posi Twists and also Posi Taps-- These make for quick connections + testing. Various sizes available but I tend to get some that cover 14+, and another set for smaller gauges ~22+

Solder Seal Wire Connectors-- I started buying these in bulk recently because they're just stupidly easy to use and make a rather quick and solid connection. Soldering is another experience onto itself if you've never done it before. While I tend to do more circuit-board soldering than wire to wire, it's all relatively similar and you'll find certain products that you fancy more over time. The biggest thing I'd say here is to buy solder WITH lead. Can't tell you how much frustration I've had over shit solder, haha.

My most recent wire stripper-- I chose because it has the largest range of gauges and there's no internal spring that forces the stripper open. Having one tool to do 10awg all the way to 26 is pretty sweet.

u/gusgizmo · 2 pointsr/wireless

Highly recommend Unifi AP's with a mikrotik controller. Even better if you can leave an old laptop on site for managing the unifi stuff remotely.

A single unifi outdoor model might be a good place to start, then it doesn't need to be located inside the tenants premises-- no one wants to have a tech banging around in their attic to re-align the antenna. They are also very impressive with better range than the enterprise or long range hockey puck units.

Adding additional units if necessary (and the software will be able to tell you unlike other brands/models) is a cinch, the controller software sets them up so that the network is seamless and centrally controllable.

A mikrotik rb2011 would be a good choice for a router. It has 10 ethernet ports which is formidable, and it has lots of horsepower so that you can implement content blocking if necessary to preserver the quality of the network.

http://www.amazon.com/Mikrotik-RB2011L-IN-10-Ethernet-Ports/dp/B008GZ7NEC/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127763&sr=1-4&keywords=rb2011

http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-UniFI-Outdoor-Access-802-11bgn/dp/B0066DV06I/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1405127813&sr=1-1&keywords=unifi+outdoor

Don't forget CAT5e, RJ-45 connectors, and a crimping tool if you don't have them already:

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cable-500ft-Cat-5e/dp/B0092THNDW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127939&sr=8-1&keywords=cat5e

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405127990&sr=8-1&keywords=rj-45+crimpers

u/SeeingTheRed · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

These should work...not high quality, but will get the job done.

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468289842&sr=8-2&keywords=cat5+crimper

It's easier than it looks...just take your time and use scissors to cut the ends of the Cat5 straight. A few YouTube videos and you'll be a pro in no time.

u/ihaxr · 2 pointsr/networking

You might be able to call up some cabling companies in your area and tell them you just need the cat5 cable terminated. Not sure how much they'll charge you... but it's probably more expensive than just buying the crimper and doing it yourself (it's not really that hard).

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473190092&sr=1-1&keywords=cat5+crimper

u/Pabrunthhu · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I can almost guarantee this is cable-related, especially given the intermittent nature of the issue. First, make sure the cable isn't loose, and try to push the cables into the connectors a bit. If this doesn't fix your issue, you will need to fix the cable.

A cat5 cable is comprised of four twisted pairs, a total of 8 little
wires. Somewhere in those 20m, one of those wires is cut or damaged.

It is most likely to be at the tip where the RJ45 connector (clear piece) attaches, and if the cable is run through the floors, you better hope this is the case.

Figure out what order the cables go into the connector by looking at them. They are identified with pairs of colours, as shown here

The connector will most likely look like this

Notice that there are two distinct standards. It's important that you use the same standard when re-crimping the cables on both ends.

You can simply cut about 10cm off each end, and obtain a crimper tool to reattach new connectors.

To use the crimper, insert the ends of the cables into the slots in the "empty" connectors, and then press down with the crimper to lock them into place. It's not very difficult, but you need to decide if it's worth your time and effort.

If the break in the cable is in the middle (unlikely, but possible) you're looking at ripping out the cable and running a whole new one. I don't know how exactly the cable is run, if it comes through a plate in the wall, or if it's just a cat5 cable shoved through a hole drilled in the wall, but either way replacing it is going to be pretty expensive unless you do it yourself. I would personally recommend doing this professionally, and getting two "plugs" installed in the walls.

edit: If you know any computer geeks who might know how to do this, or who already have a crimper, invite them over for a beer or something it'll take them 5 minutes

edit2: If you live in Montreal i have the day off and like beer

u/689430944 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

> landline

> im older

lol

anyways, what you want is an ethernet switch. (with Gigabit speed preferably) you don't necessarily need new RJ45 cables unless your existing ones are damaged or you don't have enough. it might be worth the cost to get a crimping toolkit and spend the time to make 1 cable into 4 shorter cables that go to a switch, so you don't have to buy more cable for each device.

here's a listing for an 8 port gigabit switch that should work

existing combo modem/router/switch/AP boxes can be configured as a wireless access point/switch.

information on how to use a second router as an access point/switch

here's that crimping kit I was talking about

u/PioneerStandard · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have all the crimping tools mentioned here and more. I am not kidding, it is my life. General purpose overall I prefer the Klein 1005 as mentioned by u/myself248 BUT I own the Chanel Lock 909 version. They are damn near the same tool but Klein charges a premium price. Channel lock is made in the USA!

u/nagaina · 1 pointr/CarAV

Invest in some of these, one of these, some self tapping screws, and some ring terminals.

Since your later comment says you've had it this way for 7 months, you need to know this kind of laziness is bound to cause problems. Problems such as blown fuses, intermittent operation, noise heard from the speakers, and possibly a fire. Do you know how it feels to have your car start on fire due to an electrical fault? I do, and it's the worst feeling.

u/dricha36 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Network Tech here..

This is the tool to properly punch down those wires into the white block (known as a keystone RJ45 jack)

If you're only doing one though, you can punch the cables into the grooves with a pair of tweezers or a small screw driver (gently!) and trim the wires flush with the side of the block with a sharp utility knife.

u/crackills · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

>Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.

>The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

Thanks! swapped for monoprice

>I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.

ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.

>Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?

So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?

>Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE
https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

nice rack (giggity)

u/1BadDawg · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

You need a punch tool. It's likely that the jacks are fine, but the push tool isn't doing a good enough job.

This is the one I have at home:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_yac5Cb49KNM3H

​

A good punch tool serves two purposes:

  • Push the wire alllllll the way down into the V-shapped metal blades that connect the wire to the pin on the jack to make the connection, and
  • Cut-off the excess wire.

    ​

    By pushing the wire all the way down in the the connector, it's forcing the V-shaped metal blades to bite into the wire. It doesn't look like the push tool you're using is pushing it enough to bite into the wire.
u/ChicoLat · 1 pointr/homelab

Crap! Just bought pretty much the same items (different brands) less than 24 hrs ago on Amazon.

Product|Price|
:---------|---------:|
TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68|$14.35
Network Cable Tester|$4.17
TRENDnet Punch Down Tool with 110 and Krone Blade TC-PDT|$20.34
CableWholesale CNE16127 RJ45 CAT-5 E Crimp Connector Solid|$4.55
C2G / Cables to Go 27352 Cat5E UTP Solid PVC CMR-Rated Cable, Grey (1000 Feet/304.8 Meters)|$99.85

Used CAT5E since CAT6 would be overkill for my needs and the budget is always tight.

u/vote100binary · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have no experience with some of these specific items but I wouldn't hesitate to buy them from what I've seen:

The cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Shielded-Waterproof-Ethernet-trueCABLE/dp/B01JAVN1C8/

The "ends" -- these are keystone jacks. You could put RJ45 plugs on, but I think keystone jacks are more forgiving, plus it's more flexible since you can plug a patch cable into this. Also, putting RJ45 ends on this direct bury cable will be tricky since it will have thicker shielding.

https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Cat6-Keystone-Jack-Compatible/dp/B07JRD69V6

The punchdown tool -- you could get by with a cheaper/simpler one like this -- you'll probably want this for stripping the jacket (it does both), though a razor blade will work too:

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Wire-Stripper-Rj45-Cat5-Cable/dp/B07MQB7STL/

This is kind of a basic middle of the road example of a proper punchdown tool, though the previous one is fine for a small amount of work.

https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Storage-Interchangeable-Reversible-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/

Once punched down, you can plug those keystone jacks into wall plates like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Profile-Keystone/dp/B074HGPH18

Or surface mount boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-2-Port-Surface-Mount-107089/dp/B0069MDB9U/

You could even find a small patch panel.

u/zcr9999 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Each cable is for each room would this work You need to cut off the phone jacks and install CAT5e or better RJ-45 jacks with a punch down tool. Do this conversion at every place where you want network. Then in the basement you need to punch down the other end of each cable separately to a CAT5e or better patch panel. Then you need to run short CAT5e or better patch cords from the patch panel to an Ethernet switch. Finally you need to connect your router to the switch, either directly, or through one of the network jacks you installed in the house.

u/bboy1977 · 1 pointr/DIY

I had the same exact question for DIY subreddit a few months ago looking to do the same thing as you. Forget about the patch panel and the big box stores. Don't spend a ton of money. You are just wiring a couple rooms. You can get everything off Amazon or ebay for cheap. If you don't care about phone service then just cut the cables and crimp on new. Then plug all the crimped ends into a switch. No need for a panel. You can get a tester for cheap at amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346567376&sr=8-2&keywords=network+cable+tester

I bought and used that one and it worked great. Probably not the best out there, but for a one time simple project to get a few rooms online it is more than enough.

The only thing to spend some money on is the punch down tool (Although doesn't look like you may need one based on your wall jacks). The ones that come free with other stuff are useless and will waste your time and wiring. This one worked well for me:
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346567733&sr=1-1&keywords=TRENDnet+Punch+Down+Tool+with+110+and+Krone+Blade+TC-PDT


Crimping is easy as hell if you use connectors like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009JCVI6/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

The crimping tool by the same brand actually cuts the excess wiring while you crimp. I did about 10 crimps and all worked perfect the first time. I bought a EZ RJ-45 $60 crimp tool from someone on ebay. Then sold it for the same amount two weeks later when I finished using it.

u/annihilatedremedy · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.

If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.

But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.

Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZVUBO


Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG

This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!

Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!

u/johnson_n · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Is the original coax is going through a hole in the drywall or an actual wall plate?

You could get a

punch down tool
(1) keystone jack wall plate
(1) cat5e/cat6 RJ45 punch down keystone jack
(1) cat5e/cat6 RJ45 punch down surface mount box

The setup would be to make a run of your Ethernet cable (solid core) between the ONT and router. Terminate the Cat 6 in the basement with the surface mount box and attach a patch cable between it and the ONT. For the router side you would do the same except using a wall plate instead. If no wall plate then you could get two of the surface mount boxes.

You can get single pieces of what I linked at most home stores or places like Micro Center, etc.

u/Lost_electron · 1 pointr/telecom

The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp

PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.

Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!

u/drttrus · 1 pointr/Network

OP, this is a suitable crimper on amazon

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NCT5Bb9R485EM

These are suitable cable connectors on amazon

Cable Matters 100-Pack Cat 6 / Cat6 RJ45 Modular Plugs (RJ45 Plugs) for Stranded UTP Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D5RFCE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zFT5BbGGADAGM

Youll see "pass through" connectors advertised on amazon and other retailers on amazon, I dont have experience with using them.

For RJ11 usage, most crimpers have an RJ11 slot and an RJ45 slot, the 45 wont fit into the 11 slot and the 11 would be damaged if you used it in the 45 slot. I think youre making this more complicated than it needs to be.

u/GoingOffRoading · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

Uh, everybody gets upvotes!

Edit:

So essentially something like this would be fabulous? Amazon Link

u/CopyMore · 1 pointr/techsupport

Desktop Link to same item: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWQ13R6

Should be able to run it up to 100m without a repeater or anything like that. If you buy that bare cable you will need

Crimpers: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G
Rj45 connectors: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BS92DCK

u/wesgarrison · 1 pointr/DIY

Make sure you look up how to attach the cable ends to the cables. There are 8 wires in the cable and they're color coded. You have to put them in the correct order or they won't work. [Technically, the actual color order doesn't matter, but they have to be consistent.]

Might not be worth it for a one-time job, but a cable tester like:
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-HDE-H11-Network-Cable-Tester/dp/B000P1OA1O
... is handy to check your work before it drives you insane. You plug in the remote to one end and the base to the other and it lights up if you have a connection or shows mismatches. When you're done, you can test cables using the base. Definitely worth the $5 since now you can make custom length ethernet cables for a fraction of the cost you can buy them at the store for.

You have to decide if you want to put plug ends on (like the end of an ethernet cable) which will plug straight into your device or receptacles that you mount to the floor/wall in a plate (and then you use a regular cable [that you can now make!] to connect it to your device.)

They both work, the receptacles and plates look nicer than a cable sticking out of the floor.

You'll need a drill and drill bits to put holes in things.
If you're going under, you'll want clips that hold the cable in place, maybe. Zipties work too.

You'll need a crimper, like:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G
You get the wires lined up into the plug and this squeezes the metal contacts down into the wires to hold them and make a connection.

It's totally doable, go for it!

u/Thomcat316 · 1 pointr/CarAV

If you don't own them already, pick up a set of crimpers like these which do a very nice job of fully crimping things like ring terminals.

When you get the terminals, either get the heat-shrink variety, or the bare (non-insulated) and some appropriate heat shrink tubing. It's not necessary to do this, but it dresses the installation up nicely and makes it look like you care about the details.

u/alfalfasprouts · 1 pointr/CarAV

use this for the crimp on connectors

Ratcheting crimpers technically work better, but I don't like them for the red/blue/yellow multi gauge connectors, as they crimp to a specific size, and if your wire gauge doesn't match that size, you get a bad crimp.

The Klein tool I linked above lets you get a solid crimp regardless of your wire gauge, and has a long handle to give you good mechanical advantage so you don't have to squeeze the crap out of the tool to get that good crimp. In fact, it is easily possible to over crimp, so watch out for that.

u/Boleo · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yes that's the one. Just match the colors with the harness that comes with the deck that you buy. Join the wires with crimp caps or butt connectors, or solder and heat shrink if you feel comfortable.

http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CCL1614-Connector--100-Pack/dp/B000SBLM1C/

You need a special crimping tool. You could possibly get away with something you already have.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/

Or, I guess, some screw on wire nuts and then zip tie or tape it together.

Remove the screws from the factory deck and put your new deck into the bracket with the pocket, the new deck should have the holes there.

u/YostwocentS · 1 pointr/electricians

These are the ones that I carry Crimping and Cutting Tool for Insulated and Non-Insulated Terminals, 9-3/4-Inch Klein Tools 1005 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KGCqDbYFPH4W0

u/britishwonder · 1 pointr/Miata

On god. Yeah that's for savages. Klein makes an really good crimper . Nothing fancy, but very well made, hardened tool steel, and covers pretty much all automotive wire gauges. Also need to use good crimp connectors like these . They come with a high heat, heat shrink you can just use a regular lighter to shrink down

u/SandFate · 1 pointr/CarAV

Speaker Wire Colors:

Front Left: +/- Tan/Grey

Front Right: +/- Light Green/Dark Green

Rear Left: +/- Brown/Yellow

Rear Right: +/- Dark Blue/Light Blue

Use this to reroute the wires from the amp, then back to the head unit. The speaker wires will be in a twisted pair on the output side of the amp, Easiest way is to test the wires by tapping the positive and negative wires on a 9Volt battery to see if you get a response. If you get a response, you have the right wires. (ask if you are unsure of how to do this.
http://www.amazon.com/Stinger-SGW9920-Conductor-Speedwire-Black/dp/B002ODEZ1G

Use this to connect the wires the easiest way:
http://www.amazon.com/Install-Bay-CC2218-Connector-100-Pack/dp/B005HQ4T6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138077&sr=8-1&keywords=crimp+caps

Using this tool:(or something similar)
http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Insulated-Non-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B0006M6Y5M/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1452138134&sr=8-24&keywords=crimp+tool

u/Timid_Pimp · 1 pointr/CarAV

Pulling out the speaker yourself might be the easiest way to find out what speakers you have.

If this is something you're interested in you will need:


  • A pair of crimpers, I suggest Klein crimpers.

  • Butt connectors. You'll probably need 10-12 gauge (yellow) butt connectors.

    You'll need to pull the sub out as far as you can, then snip the wires (leave 5-6" of wire coming off of the subwoofer), check the model number, then use the butt connectors to re-attach the wires.

u/sputnikspiff · 1 pointr/motorcycles

Best connection is to use non-insulated connectors and a proper crimper.

Then protect them with shrink tubing. It's worth having these supplies around because they are so much easier, faster, and more reliable than solder.

u/illuxion · 1 pointr/CarAV

those crimpers work but they are actually for non insulated only and tend to punch through insulation, doesn't look like there is an insulated hole on them. For quick work use my trusty old klein but I also have a ratcheting crimper with a few different die sets, the insulated die is a double crimp and works fantastic. This works almost as well for a lot less $$$(I bought the cheap one when I thought I loaned my palidin then realized it was in another toolbox). I'm usually too lazy to solder stuff under the dash(proof of laziness), but anything outside of the cabin I solder and use glue lined heatshrink to make sure the union is not compromised. When I do use butt splices or crimp caps, I make sure to use the right crimper.

I also consider my test light as a must have, computer AND airbag safe. It make signal chasing much easier using the piercing probe and the headlight is handy. Keep the bandaids handy using it though, I've tested the voltage in my fingers quite a few times.

While the plastic trim tools come in handy, I find something like this very handy when you need a bit more nut behind the prying, although I haven't't used the window crank clip remover in a LONG time lol.

u/aalchemy42 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

So much these!

50 piece

The tool, but you can get away with a normal crimper if the wires can poke through the other side, and cut off excess with diagonal cutters.

u/Tymanthius · 1 pointr/linux

If you're going to run wire more than once, look at the EZ Crimper.

Looks great, no idea how good it really is.

http://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-EZ-RJ45-Crimp-RJ-11/dp/B00084Y1ZI?sa-no-redirect=1

u/gamebrigada · 1 pointr/networking

I would recommend Platinum tools for all networking gear. They really think this stuff through. The only other company that spends as much engineering hours re-inventing existing products to make the installers job easier is Siemon, but they charge you a lot for it.

These connectors + Strain Reliefs

With this crimper

With this separate stripper

That set will put your RJ-45 termination time to under 2 minutes with just a bit of practice, and under 1 minute after some experience. Even pros that have decades of experience wont be able to touch you with standard connectors.

Why separate stripper? If you terminate a lot, try the thing. All-in-one tools are garbage, you can't make 5 completely different tools work well in one tool, you have to sacrifice. When the separate tools cost a couple bucks, why make any sacrifices? I wish they made one of these for Cat6a, as I have yet to find a decent stripper for it.

Driver set

I would recommend this set, but maybe get it for yourself later as a gift. These cover the most used drivers, and they will outlast you. Stick to cheapos for rare ones unless you want to treat yourself. Wiha is the snap-on of electronics screwdrivers. Except without the payment plan.

Get yourself a cheapo kit for testing cable. All the cheap ones work just fine, as long as it tests the pairs you're generally set. You can even get one to test multiple runs at the same time, just takes a few short patch cables and oddly wired keystones, you can make those from spare parts. If you want something more substantial without spending money, get yourself a pockethernet.

I would stay away from Klein, they just invest quality of materials into age old designs. Yeah they'll last, but they really didn't think about it.

u/chortiz11 · 1 pointr/HondaCB

If you don't care about it being "completely stock", just rewire the whole damn bike. It's pretty straight forward. That's what I did on my first project bike, you learn a lot by rewiring a bike from scratch. Go out and by some nylon sleeving, an assortment of 14g-18g multicolored wire, heat shrink, misc pack of electrical connectors. If you are somewhat mechanically/electrically inclined than by all means you should go for it. All you need to start is a soldering iron, multimeter, crimper/wire cutters, and a desire to learn. Shit man, its how I learned. Don't half ass it, and don't give up!

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/working-with-wire/how-to-crimp-an-electrical-connector

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Solderless-Terminal-Connection-Stripper/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371692640&sr=8-1&keywords=electrical+connectors


u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 1 pointr/autorepair

https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Harness-Sorento-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL50TA

as others have mentioned, you need to splice whatever connector harness comes with the new radio to the wiring harness linked above. The best way to do this is to individually solder each connection and insulate with heat shrinkable tubing, the second best way is with some 'butt' connectors and a crimping tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50413A-Insulated-Connectors-Assortment/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486664654&sr=8-1&keywords=wire+crimping+kit

u/starrpamph · 1 pointr/electricians

You need to identify a leak or other cause of the corrosion.

Use some sharp scissors, Cut that wire back an inch or so and see if the corrosion is that far back. Might need to get a length of wire to replace it if it's that bad. Attach the pieces using butt connectors. (Only crimp to copper that is not corroded obviously)

Go buy a tool something like this (auto part store or home store) those crimpers are not great but cheap if you will only use it once a year and they come with the terminals.

https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-50413A-Insulated-Connectors-Assortment/dp/B000K7GRCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=crimp+tool+kit&qid=1573491705&sr=8-14

u/hotend · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

The connectors are JST-XH plugs (JST = Japan Solderless Terminals). They are quite common in the R/C community. Wired 4-pin plugs are readily available, but I don't know if you can easily get patch cables. A crimping tool is a good investment. The Engineer PA-09 is probably the best, but there are cheaper options. JST-XH crimps and kits are also available online.

u/ZombieGrot · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That looks like a JST XH-series but one picture with no measurements is a chancy way to identify it.

The terminals are cheap (assuming the right series, of course). Pennies, if you buy 25 or more, which is recommended if you're not experienced with crimping small terminals like that. You'll need a proper crimper. The Engineer PA-09 works well with practice. I prefer their PAD series for flexibility but that's probably overkill, here.

u/GilchristT · 1 pointr/PrintedCircuitBoard

If you're looking at crimping (and I'd also recommend it) don't waste time trying to crimp with ordinary pilers, that's a one-way road to tearing your hair out.

The vendor recommended crimping tools are typically very expensive but you can pick up generic crimpers on EBay, something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/quality-universal-crimping-Japanese-Engineer/dp/B002AVVO7K
I'm not recommending that specific seller, they're just the first one that came up in Google. Search for "PA-09 crimping tool"

u/snops · 1 pointr/electronics

Engineer PA make some nice crimp tools that are much better than pliers, if not as good as the real thing. Here is an example, note they come in different sizes, but they tell you what crimps they work with: https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K/

u/BornOnFeb2nd · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Yes, but only in hindsight!

You might also want to pick up spare pins, female ends, a crimper, and spare headers while you're at it.

Some Ribbon cable can also be useful...

I went through so many pins and headers trying to figure out the right way to crimp those bastards so they stayed put... "crimp" it.. put it in the header... give it a slight tug... cable comes out... grab a pin to lever the catch allowing the pin and female end to be removed, break catch in process, curse.. try again...

Oh well, they're cheap, and I bought a lot expecting to screw up. :)

u/theslothening · 1 pointr/Tools

I don't have any experience with any other crimpers than the ones I mentioned above but these are pretty highly rated. You might also consider using heat shrink/solder butt connectors. I've got the kit I linked to here and have been impressed with it. You will need a heat gun though but no crimping involved. Just use enough heat to melt the solder and shrink the heat shrink .

u/Minasokoni · 1 pointr/voroncorexy

these (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U) changed my view on the connectors. Those big stupid ratcheting ones are useless.

u/the_big_endian · 1 pointr/BuyItForLife

I have the Leatherman Charge AL and love it. It's my EDC. Very durable and the I am surprised I haven't messed up the the wire cutter or the stripper yet. I wish the Charge AL had replaceable wire cutters like the Surge.
Also, if you are going to be cutting and crimping a lot, get a dedicated tool.

u/lordvadr · 1 pointr/networking

RJ45 connectors do not exists, because RJ45 is not a connector--it is a jack. If you will search for the correct name for the product, which is an 8P8C connector, as well as whether you're crimping it onto solid (yes, they exists and work fairly well) or stranded wire, you will get higher quality connectors.

Edit to add more: And this brings me to my next concern, that you're probably making cables out of riser cable--if you bought it in a 1000 foot spool and didn't seek out "patch cable material," you're almost certainly using lateral (usually designated CM, or CMG), riser (CMR) or plenum (CMP) cable. The blades in these ends are not designed to crimp into the solid wire in any in-wall-rated cable. Does it work? Mostly, but not terribly reliably. They do make ends designed for solid wire, where the blades are flared a bit from side-to-side, but they're not something I can say a lot about as far as reliability. Our wiring guys would either refuse to put a mod-end on solid wire, or we would certainly refuse to warrant it if the customer insisted on it.

You can buy stranded wire in 1000' boxes. That is just the first link I found and in no way is a recommendation for Belkin cable.

Lastly, you may just not be getting a good crimp and the cable just might not be seating properly. A good ratcheting crimper from a major manufacturer might help you out a lot.

u/le1ca · 1 pointr/networking

I use this one all the time. I have the one that mrsix recommended as well, but I like this one a lot better.

edit: don't fall for that ez-rj45 nonsense

u/Duck_Giblets · 1 pointr/specializedtools

Just ordered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002D3B97U/ alongside a wire stripper k1412. Have a feeling that life is about to get easier.

u/Kirkenjerk · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I have used Klein tools crimper and it does a good job, as I have had zero issues with cables i've made with it:

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV226-011-SEN-Ratcheting-Stripper/dp/B002D3B97U/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479150358&sr=1-1&keywords=klein+network+crimper

As for a switch I don't know all to much about them. I actually need to start looking for one soon. One of the networking guys I work with suggested the NETGEAR ProSAFE JGS524NA. 24 Port Gigabit. Over $100+ but he said he loves his.

u/nkizz · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Crimpers

Dat ratchet doe

u/mloy · 1 pointr/philadelphia

True, but all you need are crimper pliers which are pretty cheap if you go with one like this. For somebody who doesn't crimp cables for a living it'll get the job done.

u/usernametaken0987 · 1 pointr/BeAmazed

I don't doubt it to much. I had an old clipper for modem lines, you pinched and pulled the wire coating off and just slide the plastic end over it.
https://www.amazon.com/Champper-Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers/dp/B0055EXMII

It makes perfect sense you can cut into it sideways and connect to the end without having to fully rip the plastic off. But I honestly don't know why you would buy it, people I know have had more issues with the end than the cable.

u/Theothercan · 1 pointr/electrical

Okay so technically you can run 100 Base-T on 4 wires, but I've never tried it personally. Anyway, if you get yourself a crimper and some RJ-45's then you could give it a shot. Pins 1,2,3, and 6 are what you need to land, just make sure both ends are the same color wise and that the crimp is good and tight and it might just work, but keep in mind it might not so don't count on it for sure.

u/mongler_richard · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Just so you know in the future, that doesn't look like the proper way to crimp those terminals. I'm guessing you just smashed them with a pair of pliers but you should always use the proper crimper on terminals like that when it matters because the wires can slip out.

u/McShotCaller · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

These Titan crimper are pretty great,

https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Tools-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal/dp/B0069TRKJ0

I use panduit brand crimpers at work that they pay close to $1000 for, these are every bit as good in my opinion and they are $25

u/Saucy_Bagel · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Alright, you and /u/PioneerStandard have convinced me.

Would you mind helping me figure out which would work best?

Would a ratcheting one like this be best despite the cost? https://www.amazon.ca/Titan-11477-Ratcheting-Terminal-Crimper/dp/B0069TRKJ0

Or would a nice/decent wire stripper/cutter/crimper like this work alright? https://www.amazon.ca/Gardner-Bender-GS-366-Multi-Purpose-Crimp/dp/B00164C0KW

Also, would a more "plier-type" tool work as well? https://www.amazon.ca/Irwin-Industrial-2078309-Stripper-ProTouch/dp/B000JNNWQ2

Thanks by the way.

u/jpMAGA · 1 pointr/cars

Most people start not realizing a lot of electrical products sold for DIY are junk. Check out these crimpers while you're at it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069TRKJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/mrpawswi · 1 pointr/sailing

I have had these for quite a while. Finishing up re-wiring about 80% of my Ericson 39-B. I'll never go back to the cheap crimpers and strippers...these take a lot of the menial frustration out of involved re-wiring projects.

Ratcheting Crimper

Self-adjusting wire stripper

I would also advise a set of knee pads!

u/Zappy_Kablamicus · 1 pointr/computers

All the cat5 cables ive seen have 4 pairs; blue, brown, green and orange/red and a striped counterpart. In the image posted it looks like the colors are still there, they just went with different patterns and shades.

So im seeing the orange one come out of the wall, and it LOOKS like its going into the third block from the left, but i notice its actually connected to the second from the left, so its matched with the solid orange. The fourth from the left appears to be the solid greens, as i can also see the third block contains the striped greens (as well as some of the leftover from the wall cable). And of course the far right block houses the orange striped wires. So it looks like someone was bridging the orange and green pairs, but the green striped line is broken or cut on purpose.

So like i said before if it was coming from the phone line we would only need 2 to get data to the modem, but as this is coming from a router, itll need most, if not all, of the 8 wires connected. There is a guide to wiring all this up and it goes by color of the wires, but thats just a guide and may not always be the case in how it was actually wired up.

This is how a standard ethernet cable is hooked up

Also cat 5e is just a cat5 cable that can handle more data and is better shielded so thats a non issue.

So long story short, its looks like all of them need to be hooked back up. All the suggestion in my first post should still be valid and if i were doing it i would probably run a whole new cat5 cable from the router to the pc. Failing being able to do that, i would trim up the cables in your pic, crimp new heads on following the diagram color chart, and patch them together with a female-to-female rj45 patch socket. Failing ability to do that, i would solder each wire to the other and shrink tube the joint. And lastly i would resort to twisting them together with electrical tape, or using a wire block like in your pic to join them and throw the whole thing in an enclosure like a plastic bag or something lol. Basically anything to get those wires touching and not falling apart will net some degree of success.

You'll need:

Edge trimmers

Cat5 head crimper

F2F rj45 coupler

Cat5 heads

Something similar to this 8 wire bus bar will work, but smaller would be better

And thats about it, depending on how you decide to go about the repair. Also no problem at all. shoot me another message if anything else pops up and ill help however i can.

u/srdjanrosic · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

There's this RJ45 cable tester that's a part of this kit (crazy how popular this model is), if you don't have one and if you just moved in, you might find it useful to double check to make sure the cabling is "correct", and that all 4 pairs/8 wires are actually working.

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0

u/xNS5 · 1 pointr/EDC

IMO you just need a box cutter and wire cutters.

It would also be handy to have a cable tester.

Edit:

>I definitely can't afford them

I call shinannegans. Cheap af

u/CrazyNateS · 1 pointr/Ubiquiti
u/Dark_24 · 1 pointr/buildapc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysYLdFxNVuc

If you want to take it off you have to cut the old one and put on a new one..

it can be done..
Thought a crimp tool does not cost that much and they will come in handy one you have one.. No more will you be forced to use whatever length you buy..

I recommend this one: https://www.amazon.com/ECore-Cables-93-100-018-Professional-Crimping/dp/B01LX16ZCH

Or you can get this little kit for the sameish price which is adequate..
https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0



IF you are truly cheap LOL - You can cut the cable with about 6 to 10 inches from the end and then cut the rest of the cable to length THEN cut the rest of the cable to the length you want and strip both ends and splice all 8 wires back together (but THIS is NOT recommended LMAO)

u/tactleng · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement



UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It comes with the crimper tool the cable tester the RJ45 connectors all for $15.

I used this when I ran CAT5e for my Security Cameras and I had to make sure the cable still worked after pulling through the run and the cable tester worked great. Just plug in a short CAT6 cable in each room and attach the cable tester then go to your utility room and hook up the other end of the tester until it passes, label and move on.

u/lufx · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315)
by UbiGear®
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_7efzCbDCN9H6S

u/Hawkdup45 · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you can build a pc you can run some cat5e cable where ever you live. People say im just renting and I can't put holes in the wall and all other kinds of things. You can run it along the base boards using cable clamps or do any number of things to make it work. Just get some cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0092TG310/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_haCnzb6BHCV61 and here's everything else you need including the tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_DdCnzbFAGCRX7 so for about $50 you can run as much cable as you need. I would run one line to your gaming room and use a Gigabit Ethernet switch for everything in the room. A real gamer never uses wifi because they know about networking.

u/xDARKFiRE · 1 pointr/techsupport

You can get an ethernet crimper and some RJ45 ends for very cheap online, there's a ton of guides on the internet on how to properly terminate cat5/6 cable, no point getting a shop etc to cut a cable when you need to size it for your needs in the room really :)

EDIT: here you go - linky

u/BlueBoxBlueSuit · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have everything in my media center. The biggest thing I did to clean it up was custom cut-to-length ethernet cables. You can get the tools to do it yourself quite inexpensively, it's easy to learn, and it makes a big difference. Plus, then you'll get the itch and re-wire everything in your house.

​

Unfortunately a lot of the power cables are non-standard so it's harder to get different lengths. I have a cable management box that I shove a power strip and all the power plugs into, and then velcro all the cables into a bundle to run to the hubs.

​

Quick Guide on custom cables:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zX17FF47deI

​

Toolkit on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network-Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541653653&sr=8-3&keywords=ethernet+crimp+tool

(Note: This only includes cable ends, but you can do what I do and cut up the longer cables you already have to make shorter cables, instead of buying cable stock... until you need more)

​

Cable Management Box:

https://www.amazon.com/Management-Organizer-Storage-Holder-Computer/dp/B074T8BBGV/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541653791&sr=8-3&keywords=power+strip+box

​

u/safhjkldsfajlkf · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

I'm sure sure what you mean. Are you using keystone jacks, or just making your own male connectors with a crimper?

You need four connected wires in total, because if you have something like 6 functional wires in there instead of 8, your network equipment might try to negotiate at gigabit, and it won't work. Whereas if you have 4 wires at positions 1,2,3,6, it'll go straight to 100mbps, afaik.

Edit: If you were using a pre-terminated cable that you are now modifying, you'll need buy a crimper.

u/1new_username · 1 pointr/techsupport

Are you sure this is where it is bad/what is causing the problem. It is hard to tell from the picture exactly, so here is some general info.

The outer black layer is pretty much just for protection/shielding and could be replaced with electrical tape in a pinch (which it sounds like you have tried).

Inside you have 8 wires in 4 color pairs (a solid and a stripe). One or more of those wires may be damaged/disconnected.

I would look at them closely, peal back the black outer coating more if needed, and see if you can find any breaks in the 8 smaller wires. If you find one and absolutely don't want to buy anything to fix it right or run another cable, you may be able to strip off the outer coating on the individual wire to expose the copper wire inside.

Do that on both sides of the break, twist it together, cover with electrical tape, then try it out. If it works, cover the whole thing back up with electrical tape.

If you don't see any obvious breaks or issues, check into other issues (like is it maybe the router, the XBox, the cable RJ-45 plugs (the ends), etc).

Anyway, good luck. If you really want to fix it right, you could get a not that great, but serviceable crimper set for under $15:

http://smile.amazon.com/Wild-us-Tester-Crimper-Connector-Network/dp/B008UY5WL0/

Cut the cable on either side fo the tear, use that to put an RJ45 jack on each end of the break, then use a coupler like this to join them back:

http://smile.amazon.com/Britta-Products-271710-Coupler-Straight/dp/B000BSLW8U/

I know that isn't what you want to do, but it may be the best way if that is the true cause/location of your problem.



u/Butt_Hurt_Toast · 1 pointr/homelab

Depends on your ends. If you're using fancy Ez push through Cat 6's like: https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100010C-Connectors-Clamshell/dp/B000FI9VU2 Then I'd get the platinum tools one to match https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00939KFOU&pd_rd_r=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90&pd_rd_w=aewvk&pd_rd_wg=Fsm6F&psc=1&refRID=47RDY57AQH3AGVVSSR90 since it'll cut the cables off as you crimp.

Otherwise I'd go with Klein's. Their data cable stuff is very good.

u/gymleader_brock · 1 pointr/computertechs

I bought one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100054C-Clamshell-EZ-RJPRO/dp/B00939KFOU

It has the A and B standards printed on the side of the crimper!


Also it uses these ends that make the job a cinch. When you crimp it cleaves off the excess wire.

http://imgur.com/a/8ixLE

u/kidcatarax · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Id consider a mppt charger, I used bluesolar 100/30. A pure sine inverter. More solar. Cheap wire at lowes home depot down to 6 ga or use welder wire. Buy one of these for crimping wire lugs. Worth 15 or 20 dollars, nice crimp. https://www.amazon.com/TEMCo-Hammer-Crimper-Tool-Warranty/dp/B00E1UUVT0

u/UTigHtWINean · 1 pointr/CarAV
u/gibson_guy77 · 1 pointr/CableManagement

Paracord works well too, but it's just more difficult sleeving it without a threading tool. Mainframe sells that too, and I'm not sure which places will be much cheaper. Also I bought this crimping tool, and it works just as well. Just make sure you use the middle slot.

u/Stone356 · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

They're dupont connectors. You need a set of them like this and a crimper.

u/minidude140 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting
u/joshamania · 1 pointr/askanelectrician

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0752C431F/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0752C431F&pd_rd_wg=FC2o1&pd_rd_r=0GQ3GMPG08T6MJ62D7ZJ&pd_rd_w=N4O51

They're a style of "Molex" connector. You need to buy the connector, the pins and a crimper. Looks like the above kit has the style in the photo.

u/Ravdsm1g · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have printed many of his components for my c-bot printer and his stuff is very well thought out. I went bigger and I am sure that I will run into some tech hurdles to overcome because of the size and weight of my bed but your excellent prints give me hope! For DuPont connectors I picked up an iswiss ratcheting DuPont connector crimper. Click Here

If you didn't get the ratcheting on it is worth the money. I would insert the connector. Crimp down until the tabs that grip the wire insulation would bow slightly, and then insert my wire and finish the crimp. Worked like a champ!

u/TheChrisLick · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Dupont Connector Kit - 1004 pcs Crimp Connector Kit with Dupont Wire Connectors and Ribbon Cable - A Set of Male and Female 2.54 mm Dupont Connectors and Crimp Pins from Plusivo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RRPRQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QeG2DbPF16YMJ

IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xfG2DbYRNREYR

u/unwinds · 1 pointr/retrogaming

I bought something like this and this crimper. It's not worth the cost for a one-off job, though.

u/skitso · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

You buy the $25 ratcheting ones from amazon.


I have some $600 - $900 crimpers, but DuPont like in the picture doesn’t require it.

There’s a lot of skill involved with it, don’t solder your wires to the pins, take the time and get good with them.


IWISS SN-28B Crimping Tool for AWG28-18 Dupont Pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OMM4YUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eKYSDb81BFEFY

u/mojobox · 1 pointr/ender3

The original Maestro comes with all the connectors needed, if you bought a clone it may not. In that case just get yourself a box full. I soldered the connectors of the KF2510 to the original wiring loom which was very tedious work, even so I am fairly experienced with soldering. The much better method is to use a proper crimping tool, the one I bought of AliExpress just didn’t arrive in time…

Edit: no DuPont needed, the drivers are on board and properly wired up.

u/OldManGrimm · 1 pointr/PCSleeving

This is the crimping tool I'm using. It seems ok, and had good reviews on Amazon. I will say that I'm having a hard time with the "pre-crimp," in that if I go all the way to 3 clicks, it's too far, so I'm having to stop at 2 clicks. Not sure that's causing an issue, though. I'm using 18 ga wire.

Based on some of the other comments, I'm pretty sure I was carrying the sleeving up too far, and that was making it hard to get the pin in the hole. I've back the sleeving up/trimmed some of it down, and it's going a little better.

Thanks for the response!

u/robbyvegas · 1 pointr/Reprap

Thanks! I've purchased these JST-HXP connectors and this crimping tool. Is that right?

u/blueSGL · 1 pointr/CR10

When I was asking about this for the ender 3 /u/robbob2112b gave a very detailed breakdown on what they had done.


> These are what I use on the tevo and when I put the e3dv6 on the ender I'll use them there too....

>I started them about 6 inches back up the wires from the hot end spaced them out so them aren't one big blob.... used different ones for different things so they can't be switched out and if for some reason a wire pulls loose it doesnt short anything... doing it I can swap out the hot end in minutes, do a PID tune and I'm off to the races.


>Connectors and max current rating

>Jst-sm for the fans and thermistor - 3amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTKD7P4/

>Mini Tamiya type b for the heater - 10 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSD9JJQ/

>Jst-xhp are the white connector for stepper motors - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CTH46S7/

>Dupont for the black on the main board - 3 amp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVYPDGS/

>These for heated bed - up to 30 amps - solder only, not crimp
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H54LZN2/

>Crimpers - get the right ones for the pin type in the connectors you buy, you can't use just any old crimper or wing it with these tiny pins and get a good connection that doesn't come apart when things move for hours

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1RFZZ4/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGLKBSK/
>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OMM4YUY/


>Since I'm on the subject heated bed wires - large enough to carry the current and with the silicone cover and fine internal strands flexible enough to not break with movement

>https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M9IXL5Q/r

u/colinreay · 1 pointr/PCSleeving

Here ya go. Newer, updated model with a new handle. To my knowledge, all SN-28B crimpers are the same, coming out the same factory in Shenzen or wherever they are, just branded differently per company w/ different colored handles.

u/profossi · 1 pointr/sffpc

I'm making custom power cables - 18 AWG PTFE insulated wire (much thinner than usual), no braided sleeves, laced together into a neat bundle with lacing cord.

I bought a few supplies for the job as i bought the case: the crimp contacts (Molex 39-00-0039), some wire (TE Connectivity 400R0111-18-9) and a pair of crimpers (IWISS sn-28b)

u/wwwarrensbrain · 1 pointr/diyelectronics

I use this one... $20.
Have crimped hundreds of ends with it. Only issue is after squeezing to crimp, need to be careful removing the pin as it sometimes is a little stuck in the groove... but a gentle wiggle and it comes right out.
https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Terminal-0-1-1-0mm-AWG28-18-connector/dp/B017JU20Z6

u/MNsharks9 · 1 pointr/electronics

I have this. Similar, but maybe just not quite as good...

u/greecher · 1 pointr/CR10

The aircraft connecters:
8 pin
4 pin
10 pin (didn't end up using)
JST connectors

Wiring:
24ga silcone
16ga silicone


The aircraft connectors come in packs of 5 pairs (female/male), and I only ended up using 2 for now, but I have another printer coming that I want to enclose, so I'll probably use them there. The JST connectors you can use just crimpers to attach one end, other is soldered. I put shrink wrap tubing around all exposed metal, and in addition, I put them in the whole bundle in some nylon wrap i had laying around, but easy enough to find.

u/buba1243 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You need two things the ends and the crimps

u/cwkraft · 1 pointr/TheBenHeckShow

I have a several of them. I recently got one of these for pass through type connectors which I like. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGPQZQ. Note that as stated it is for pass through type connectors so you have to buy the right kind of connectors if you go that direction.

Also have one I got from monoprice as well as a punch-down tool, jacket stripper, network cable tester, etc. The monoprice crimper is sold out so no point in posting it. It was just a cheap $16 one but works fine.

u/ripsfo · 1 pointr/cableporn

I went with the Klein...did I blow it?

u/ChitlinSoulfood · 1 pointr/ender3

I’d recommend getting a cheap dupont connector kit and a decent crimper. The plastic dupont housings are a huge pain, if not impossible, to print effectively because of the little plastic clip used to hold in the crimped-on male or female connector. There are plenty of YouTube videos about it once you know what you’re looking for. :)

This is the kit I’ve used for awhile:

QLOUNI 620Pcs 2.54mm Pitch JST SM 1 2 3 4 5 6 Pin Housing Connector Dupont Male Female Crimp Pins Adaptor Assortment Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0774NMT1S

And this is the crimped I’ve used for dupont and jst connectors (like the white ones for thermistor/endstop)

IWISS IWS-3220M Micro Connector Pin Crimping Tool 0.03-0.52mm² 32-20AWG Ratcheting Crimper for D-Sub,Open Barrel suits Molex,JST,JAE,TYCO-E

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WPT5M1

Stay away from the cheaper “jaws” style crimp tools, btw. They’re a nightmare.

With those tools, some female to female breadboard wires, and a pair of snips I was able to wire up a 6-pin header to hook up to the Pi for SPI flashing. For the SKR boards I did a similar thing with the 5-pin SWD connector.

Left both SPI and SWD headers hooked up to my Pi’s GPIO pins and dangling out it’s case so I can just grab the Pi and flash whenever I need to, which is handy when doing a lot of tinkering and bricking things by accident. :)

u/EagleOneGS · 1 pointr/customGCC

Hey, I used this crimping kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07R1H3Z8X?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image

The easiest way would be to only use two wires, only connecting the data and a ground (sacrificing rumble). The two pin connector fits nicely. Or if you're determined like I was you can bend the female connector pins of a 4 pin to fit into the header.

I will take a picture of my controllers PCB when I get the chance to show you.

u/brynnflynn · 1 pointr/PrintedMinis

We have a 10s, but the same basic upgrades apply. Your goal is to increase stability and repeatability.

Springs:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M7MP2FC/

They're longer than the originals, and much stiffer. We went from having to relevel every print to never touching it once we had it dialed in.

Mirror bed:

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/lots-mirror-39151700/

Replaced the glass bed with one of these. Huge improvement over the original bed, especially since it meant we could swap out build plates without touching the leveling. Just unclip, remove old plate, add new plate. Wash with dish soap and water, wipe down and air dry.

Tools and parts for Petsfang:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R1H3Z8X/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXRNYNX/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/

These and whatever M screw set floats your budget are all you need to print and install the Petsfang.

u/xlowrimore · 0 pointsr/techsupport

A coax line would not work, because it cannot be used in place if an Ethernet line. A cable modem (which is the only device that will except a Coax, requires a CMTS (Cable Modem Termination System) in order for it to function. CMTS's are thousands of dollars. You could use an Ethernet over power, which is the power line adapter you are talking about. The only issue, an especially with old houses, the wiring is done in sections. Which is why you have circuit breakers for turning off parts of the house, without needing to turn the whole house off. In other words, you wont be successful with the Power Line Adapter, because your room is most likely in a different section of the house, than the modem. Also, appliances that use large amounts of energy, such as washers, dryers, microwaves and fridges can cause your latency to spike up into the 4000ms (You can see how Ethernet over Power didn't really catch on).

Your best option, is buying a 350 ft of CAT 5 Cable, and fishing it up to your room. This will require Crimpers and CAT 5 ender and cable tester. This will cost you about $50 dollars, and it's really easy to do. Here is a Guide



Edit: Never heard of MoCA adapter's apparently that works too

u/quentech · 0 pointsr/Ubiquiti

This is the easiest way to make ethernet cables:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00939KFOU

Costs a bit more, but pass through connectors are so much nicer to do.

I really think Cat8 is overdoing it.

Cat 5E is usually just fine, and cheaper

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AZLS6Y

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034B3KYU

Cat 7 is plenty

https://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-Connector-Clamshell-100024C/dp/B07B1K7M9X

https://smile.amazon.com/Platinum-Connector-100pcs-Twisted-Diameter/dp/B07QD73YXJ/ref=sr_1_3

u/zanfar · 0 pointsr/HomeNetworking

While you can get good punches with those, you need to make sure your keystone is on a good solid surface, and press down cleanly and smoothly; make sure not to "rock" the tool from side to side as it might crimp or otherwise damage the wire. (A keystone "stand" might help) Your keystone should also have come with a protector which you should use immediately as it helps seat the wire as well.

If you expect to do this regularly, the investment in a real 110 punch-down tool is worth it. I'm a huge fan of the comfort-grip Fluke, but there are many other brands which will do just as good of a job for a quarter of the price (they're just not as comfortable or feature-packed).

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FGWPK2/
Fluke Comfort Punch: $70

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D/
TrendNet 110 Punch: $17

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008NXK3NU/
Keystone Stand: $6

IMO a 110/66 punch-down tool is the only cabling tool a networker still needs in her bag.

u/Optimal_Joy · 0 pointsr/techsupportmacgyver

That's so much more work than cutting it and crimping on a new end... crimper kits are actually pretty cheap.