Note: finally posting this as USPS finally paid up on my claim.

USPS truck sideswiped me as we crossed an intersection. Driver was cited and USPS paid my claim. I got out of this with some minor road rash and a strained muscle, but otherwise no injuries.

One more of the bike http://www.imgur.com/gallery/3QQxtxC

Pedal is sheared off the axle, wheels are annihilated, as is the fork, stem faceplate is torn up along with the saddle, and cranks are bent. Rain gear was all destroyed as well due to sliding across the pavement. Helmet also toast.

Also, since the question keeps coming up:

Yes, I did have lights. Tail light was destroyed/thrown from bike. The headlights had been removed by me at time of photos as I didn't want them getting lost/damaged further. Vis 360 was mounted to helmet. Also had a Planet Bike Spok which is slightly viable in the second picture, under the saddle.

• Vis 360
  
  
• Cygolite Metro 550
  
  
• Planet Bike Super Flash
  
  
• Planet Bike Spok

Yup, see: Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit lock, the thing costs $100 and the opening is like 6" x 3.5".

But if you live in NYC, no matter what kind of lock you use, if you leave a nice bike locked up outside overnight, there's a 50% chance it won't be there the next day.

Pick up some spoke reflectors. Adds an unbelievable amount of visibility, and even non-cyclists think it makes my wheels look cooler.

Something like this.

I've been riding in the city for 10 years so here goes:

• Legally you're considered a "toy vehicle" and you have to obey all the same rules a car does. Most cars do not know this and will act as though you are somehow screwing up.
  
• You can get in trouble for riding a bike drunk (edit: not a DUI though as I previously said, law changed in '95), but I've never been pulled over.
  
• Riding on the sidewalk is illegal.
  
• You are legally entitled to an entire lane if no bike lane is present. Good luck trying that one.
  
• When cars pass you and you pass them you/they must give a 3' minimum of clear space on each side.
  
• Legally you need a white front light and a red rear reflector, but get two lights and wear a helmet. Wear a helmet.
  
• Give enough room so you can't get doored. Cars may get upset but you won't die. 1/3 of bike deaths are from doorings. If someone doors you they are in the wrong. Call the cops.
  
• Don't post on reddit about how you run stop signs or red lights even when you look both ways, are aware that you have more to lose in the situation, and make sure not to impinge on anyone's right-of-way - they will down vote you to hell.
  
• Cars turning right at the last minute and oncoming cars turning left are your biggest dangers.
  
• Only lock to things that can't move and get a decent u-lock. The small orange Kryptonite ones have always been popular and are pretty good. No lock will stop a portable angle grinder.
  
• Specialized Armadillos (not sold online) are your friend (my bias, others like Gatorskins, etc.); as are floor pumps.
  
  Cars are getting better at dealing with bikes as they become more popular, but overall the city isn't well designed for bikes. Thus, it is understandable that both bikes and car users will get frustrated with eachother from time to time. Nature of the beast for the time being.
  
  4 AM rides are great. As is drunk Lake Shore Path riding.
  

An 'airzound' the button / horn mounts on your handlebars and you can pump it back up with a bike pump

Bite my shiny metal ass.

Dont forget a lock. I use this one $80 this one is more affordable $35

drunkriding requires lighting. People seem to like cygolite.

[Nice singlespeed tool $20 ] (https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM)

That bike has rack mounts. Racks mean you can bring more than one case of beer home at a time.

I dont carry much else on the singlespeed. A small $2 patch kit, tire levers and an inflator.

Edit: The Modified Sheldon, credit: 802bikeguy

May I recommend getting an airhorn? http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC

As a motorcyclist that has been hit twice by motorists not paying attention, I feel like I've got some hard earned wisdom on this topic. You really have to let the pride of right-of-way go, get out of their way and let them know of your presence. Right-of-way doesn't matter anymore when you're in the hospital.

a cougar hunts stealthily, comes at you from behind, and jumps aiming to bite the neck. you'd be better with a mirror.

^(not as macho tho)

edit: don't people put googly eyes on the back of their hats / helmets? seriously.

^(mirror and googly eyes you'd be sex on wheels.)

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380651864&sr=8-1&keywords=bicycle+touring+pump

About a foot long, transforms into a floor pump. Easy to fill 100psi and beyond. Has saved my bad-lucky-flatted ass many times. Best there is.

https://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC

I don't care what earbuds/earphones you're wearing, when this goes off ten feet behind you while rollerblading you'll jump right the ($&*#% out of your skin...

• Get a helmet, lights, and either wear bright clothing when cycling or get a high viz jacket.
  
  
• Obey the rules of the road and don't fulfill the cyclist stereotype that we're "pedestrians or drivers depending on which suits us". Stick to cycle paths and roads, signal with an outstretched arm, stop at stop signs and red lights, looking before overtaking, don't lose focus, etc. If you must use the footpath, dismount and use your feet.
  
  
• Buy a u-lock or equivalent. Try to avoid using cable locks where at all possible. Learn how and where to lock your bike.
  
  
• Learn basic bike maintenance such as how to change and repair a punctured tube and how to maintain your chain and gears.
  
  
• Don't get overly psyched about long distance commutes. So many people think you have to be an Olympic athlete and find out it's actually very doable once you try it.
  
  
• Have fun, best of luck, and don't hesitate to ask more questions or for clarification. :-)
  
  Edited to add a point.

I've been using a Topeak "Road Morph" and it absolutely rules. It's got a little flip out foot thing, pressure gauge and can handle high pressures.

I even convinced Topeak to mail me some replacement parts so I can rebuild the thing on the road if I need.

Perhaps a loud noise maker (air horn) would have sufficed as a next step. Pepper-spray is more of a last-resort deterrent, something that should only be used when one is in peril (but only you can be the judge of that).

A loud, sudden noise will both startle the harasser and attract attention from others to your plight.

On my bike, the angle from my handlebars to 2 feet in front of the tire is different from my eyeballs to 2 feet in front of the tire.

Seriously, think about it this way; do you just barely peek over the top of your handlebars when you ride? Unless your seat is all the way down, and you have "ape hanger" handlebars...

Shameless recommendation for excellent bicycle air horn. Loud enough for cars to hear. If you bike commute, give it a look.

Hey there! I ride that leg very frequently - it is R38 / South Dakota Ave. Yes, it is dedicated shoulder riding, but the shoulder is widened more than a usual highway's would be. I would recommend it over gravel for one major reason: drivers expect bikers to be there. During a good summer day you'll encounter 5-10 bikers in the 10-mile stretch; all regular drivers in the area will be aware that bikes are on the shoulder.

Must-have #1: get a good helmet-mounted mirror (I use this one) and continuously assess the situation area you. Be especially vigilant about people passing other cars. IMO having you, a car, and another car all in a line together is a great way to die. If I see a car swing out to pass another car near me, I usually give a very clear "stop" hand signal to indicate I want them to wait until they are clear of me. Some oblige, some don't.

Must have #2: set up a safety rule and follow it. Mine is that I watch for an approaching car and if at any point their tire touches the solid white line into the shoulder, I hard brake and remove myself from the road. Thankfully, that's only happened once, and in that particular case the driver did start moving towards the center line as he approached, though I had already begun stopping.

Must have #3: get a very bright flashing rear light and use it during the day while on the highway. I have to admit to you that mine isn't bright enough, but reading this made me realize I need to get one purchased before the season starts back up, so I think I'm going to give this guy a try.

If you do the things above I think you'll find the ride up very enjoyable. Good luck and stay safe!

I recommend getting a U-Lock along with an extension cable. You want to put the U-Lock somewhere through the rear triangle like this.
This locks the rear wheel and the frame. Then you want to loop the extension cable through the U-Lock and put it through your front tire so it is also secure. Kryptonite, Abus, and On Guard are all good lock brands. Something like this lock would work fine, but there are more expensive options if you want to be more secure. I personally use this lock. All locks are about buying time because an angle grinder can cut through any lock in a few minutes. I suggest parking it to something secure, something public, and well-lit. Also, make sure to register your bike through TAPS because if someone steals your bike or puts a lock on it, they won't be able to help you. Good luck!

Topeak JoeBlow Sport II is the most common floor pump I see used in bike shops around here. I've had one in use for about ten years and never had problem. Highly recommended.

I have a Ulock and looped flex-cable. Chains are heavy, and easier to break.

For ulocks, you want to get the smallest one possible that will still let you lock to a pole. That extra space is what lets thiefs get a jack in there to pop it.

My ususal three links I give out to people on theft prevention:

Chicago Bike Blog article

CDOT

Chicago Ambasador's PDF

Also, remember to keep you bike locked someplace safe overnight like in your apartment, or in your buildings storage unit, especially until you have a good feel about how safe your area is at night for your bike.

Just lock it properly. Sturdy u-lock and a cable. The goal is to make it not worth a thief's time. So a more expensive bike requires more sophisticated deterrents.

Priorities when locking:

1. U-lock through frame, one wheel, and rack; cable through other wheel
   
2. U-lock through frame and rack; cable through wheels
   
3. Worst case scenario: cable through frame and wheels; u-lock to rack
   
   ---
   
   An example of the lock/cable setup can be found here: amazon
   
   Personally, I use a slim u-lock like this because it's lighter, but it has the draw back of being more difficult to find the right fit for some racks.
   
   If you would like to know more on the topic this video is a great resource.

Just a heads up for any other city riders - this bike horn has saved my ass several times when traffic suddenly starts to come into the bike lane. It's very loud, so don't use it on pedestrians, but it'll definitely get the attention of motorists.

The smallest, hardest, thickest lock from a reputable manufacturer which works for your bike and where you lock it up.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1324565999&sr=8-2

is widely considered to be a good compromise lock for those of us who don't live in high-crime areas. It has a very hard to pick cylinder, is too small to break with a car jack (if used properly), is too hard and thick to cut with anything but super-duper long bolt cutters, hacksawing it is possible but tough, and will actually resist the Uber angle-grinder attack for a (little) while.

Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_yqquub0B5VABY

But you also need to think about how much weight you are willing to carry...

at the store, just put it in your shopping cart.

if it will be out of your sight for any length of time, the Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit has been recommended here.

if you only need to prevent a regular pick-up-and-walk-off theft, a regular cable bike lock should be enough -- but anyone with a little time or tools can get through those rather quickly.

I usually find the Google maps estimate a bit generous - on a 25-minute estimate I might get 20 minutes, and ride 14-18mph on an upright hybrid. I know some people here on their road bikes ride faster.

Safety-wise, I actually would say your vest is even more important than lights. I personally prefer these straps. I've been using them for over 2 years. They light up like day, and don't overheat you in the summer like a full vest would while allowing you to layer multiple coats in the winter.

A nice 1000+lumen front light is another must - you want to not only be seen but in dark conditions to be able to see hazardous objects on the road, particularly a country road. This is the light I've been using for over 2 years (plus backup batteries to easily swap out), but anything bright will do. I prefer steady beam on my front light rather than having it blink - again for visibility.

For rear lights you (again) want something very bright and visible from far away, but that blinks. This is the one that I use, but again anything bright is good.

Good luck out there!

usb chargable, and I use both myself:

rear light

front light

I consider a bell pretty much 'standard equipment' on my bikes now due to this. For whatever reason the bell seems to be get better results overall verses yelling out.

Perhaps part of it is just instinctual, the bell sound is very specific to bikes so the individual really doesn't have to think about what was just said.

Just don't be the guy using an Air Zound on the multi-use trail...

Might be easier to buy something.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=140542965

Hey everyone, you may have seen me raging or telling people to be nice around the subreddit now and then, but you may not know that i am a mod on /r/bicycling and started /r/nycbike.

So this is a decent article about locking, but again... like always, it misses several critical aspects of bike locking.

• U-Locks: Smaller is better, buy quality, buy quality!!!
  
  Why is smaller better? Because the way you break a u-lock is with a jack, and if you can't get the jack into the lock, you can't break the lock.
  
  
• Cable locks are garbage!!! They are fucking garbage, do not buy them... do not buy a cable lock! They are worthless and you can break them with a simple pipe without making any noise.
  
  >The front wheel will always be easier to take off then the rear, so knowing how to lock it is a valuable skill.
  
  This is wrong. Back wheels come off just a easily as front, and cost more to replace, and i want to punch every writer that says to lock your front wheel because it's "safer" cause it's fucking not and never has been, ever!
  
  Which reminds me, the sheldon brown method doesn't work, btw.
  
  >Using two locks is the most secure method.
  
  No, well maybe, but no, not really. The most secure method is to lock with 300 individual locks in your apartment, and never leave the house. Any intellectually honest person will tell you that you need to be smart, and prepare yourself for when you are lazy, and want to leave your bike out for "just one second" and don't want to bother to lock it, and that's when it gets stolen.
  
  This is a psychological problem. The solution is locking skewers.
  
  
• Buy locking skewers. Please for the love of god, buy a small u-lock, a tiny seat cable, and locking fucking skewers. Please, i'm begging you.
  
  This is the method i use, because i'm lazy, and if i have to do anything that makes me do real work (like carry around a bunch of u-locks, or a bullshit cable lock), then i just very well may act stupid and not properly lock up my bike, as it stands, it takes me 2 seconds to lock my bike perfectly securely.
  
  tl;dr: Ideally, you want a small, quality u-lock. This locks your frame and will also lock your seat if you buy a seat cable. Just remember to make a slipknot through the seat's rails (nobody really want's to steal your crappy seat anyway). Next, buy locking skewers!!!. If your front wheel is bolt on, then just wait and see if it ever gets stolen (it probably won't unless you're unlucky), then buy a new front wheel with a skewer, and add a locking skewer. If your back wheel is bolt on, buy a longer u-lock and lock through the rear triangle and rear wheel together. Now, if you really give a shit about your bike, buy a locking top cap. This will save your fork if you come across any jerks that want your sweet, vintage, peugeot chrome fork.
  
  Also, never leave your bike outside over night, ever!

The Evolution mini U from Krypto just aren't that strong. I've seen people leverage them off, once with a hockey stick and once with a piece of rebar. They're really meant as a delaying action for messengers that aren't leaving their bike unsupervised for 8+ hours.

The one I specified is a big, burly bastard of a lock. Som'bitch weighs like 5 pounds. 18mm diameter hasp, forget leveraging it off, pain in the ass to cut through with a torch or grinder and too big to get bolt cutters on. Hasp is too small to get a scissor jack into. Simply too thick to leverage. Double-roll tumbler lock with negative pinning so you can't bump it. Boron Steel that's doped with cutting-wheel fouling polymers. Independent locking bars on the hasps so you need to make two cuts to get it through.

It can be cut, but you're going to need a acetylene rig or a lot of time with a serious battery powered angle grinder to get through it. If anything, it's just a big, TPB style "Fuck Off" to people looking opportunistically. Nothing is going to save you from a complex attack if you're one of those idiots that locks up your $4,500 carbon frame outside overnight.

If you're locking someplace as visible as the MF Station for extended periods of time with a bike that has a value over $1,500, I recommend both the Chain and ULock versions of this line at the same time, as that necessitates two sets of tools for each job. Run that U through the rear triangle and wheel, the chain through the front wheel and main portion of the frame.

Im going to agree with everyone else. Get a U-lock. I When I first got my Trek 7.3 in 2008 I the bike cost me $600, I got a lock that cost me $95 because I was using it as a commuter and I was in New York. I am of the mind that the cost of your locks should be able 10% of the cost of you bike. This works out well because the locks will last just about forever. The look that I bought 6 years ago is still in use, it was a heavy duty chain lock and I leave it locked in the gargae at my job so I dont have to carry it with me everyday.
I recently bought a new bike and I got the New York fahgettaboudit it lock, it a small ulock that isnt heavy but provides good locking.

I dont know where you live, but your bike looks new enough, especially being chainless, to catch some eyes and not just people who will give you complaints.
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367721175&sr=8-1&keywords=new+york+fahgettaboudit+mini

Awesome, congrats!

As a bike commuter of almost five years, I'll let you in on a little secret: sometimes my fellow bikers are worse that the drivers.

Case in point, I bought this cool airhorn ([Delta Cycle Airzound Bike Horn](https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC "Amazon.com : Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn")) to attach to my bike. I remember being a little eager to use it, like a kid wanting to try out a toy. It took me a few weeks before I actually had an opportunity. Sadly, and ironically, I had to blow the horn on a cyclist who darted across a crosswalk when he had a red and I had a green. I actually had to dodge out of his way. What a jerk. I remember laughing/crying about how I got this air horn to defend myself from motor vehicles, yet the first time I used it was for a cyclist :-(

I can't stress enough how useful the Airzound has been for these types of sotuations. People move when you sound like a boat.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

I ride a road bike and use the Topeak Road Morph G. It is compatible with presta and schrader valves and has a built-in psi gauge. It's a bit heavy, but I love it!

Dont skimp on vital tools for your trip or it may get cut short.

I've owned two of these pumps in the last 16 years. They are bombproof, inexpensive (for the quality) and have been the go to while on the trail, even with friends who own additional pumps. They also fit both valve types.

Highly recommended:

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527808752&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=topeak+bike+pumps&psc=1

I've owned and ridden motorcycles and scooters in Baltimore City for over 15 years now, here's my quickie advice:

GLOVES! Always always always wear good motorcycle gloves no matter how hot it is outside... Imagine sprinting flat out as fast as you can possibly go and throwing yourself to the ground hands first... now picture that at 5-10 times the speed. Goodbye skin, ouch. It shocks me how often people neglect this. Wear good gloves!

With that out of the way, I also recommend getting a snell approved full face helmet as well. Its a lot more expensive and more of an inconvenience than wearing a half or open-face helmet and a lot of people don't bother if they're riding a moped or scooter, but the curb is no softer and cars and trucks are no slower just because you're on a smaller bike. Honestly an inexperienced rider on a smaller, less visible bike, with less power is more likely to get into an accident and should therefore have more protection.

Regarding security for the bike, get one of these and one of these. Borrow a hammer drill from the Tool Library
and mount the anchor in the parking pad behind your building with the bits and hardware that come with it. It can be done relatively quickly and as long as you don't put it somewhere terribly obnoxious its likely no one will even notice its there. Use the lock to chain the bike to the anchor every single time you're not riding it, take it with you wherever you ride, and use it to lock up wherever you go.

An unlocked moped or scooter will be stolen immediately and you'll never see it again. Trust me on that one, I've had 3 bikes stolen over the years and each time it was because I didn't lock it up when I was just making a quick stop somewhere or was just running into the house for a minute...

A good helmet, gloves, lock, and anchor are going to be expensive up front but in the end will be well worth it to keep yourself and your property safe.

As long as the engine size of the bike you get is 49cc or under you can ride it in MD anywhere that isn't a highway with just your normal driver's license and a moped permit sticker on the back.
(you can order the sticker on MVA's website, it'll come in a week).
Any bike 50cc and up is considered a motorcycle in the eyes of the state and requires a motorcycle license (or class M endorsement), insurance, tag, and registration just like a car.

I don't F around

Here in So Cal there are thieves following cyclists and ripping off bikes in broad daylight with power tools. I still keep a watchful eye if I'm grabbing something to eat, going into a store, etc. I also use it to keep the bike locked in the garage as that is a common place for opportunists to look.

Kryptonite or bust.

Local shops have crazzzy prices for locks. If they were a few bucks more than amazon, I'd buy them locally but they are $30+ more expensive.

Currently using this...
http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=pd_sim_s_8?ie=UTF8&refRID=1TPAH4E2TXJ8YWF21N3C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNG8DSY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Those are the ones I got! Super easy to install, all they do is snap onto your spokes & you're all set!!

Is this your first bike?

You should really check out the beginner advice thread and the $200-600 thread in addition to this one. There's a lot of helpful advice in there including SIZING. KNOWING YOUR SIZE IS SUPER IMPORTANT SO KNOW THAT FIRST.

Also, if you're in this price bracket and you don't already have the essential bike accessories:

• A Front Brake and Lever and Cable if you're not sure what sizes you need make a post in the weekly questions thread. Some of the bikes I suggest have one already, but if they don't GET ONE.
  
  
• A Floor Pump
  
  
• A Metric Hex Set
  
  
• A 15mm wrench if your wheels require it (most do)
  
  
• A Lockring Tool 100% essential if you plan to ride fixed
  
  
• Some Grease
  
  
• Good pedals! Clips and straps, bmx straps, or clipless can all benefit greatly from a little extra cash.
  
  
• A helmet
  
  Note there are other options for all of these that could allow you to save money/space/whatever, but you won't go wrong with what I linked. I'd really suggest having these even if it means you go down a price bracket on the actual bike, they'll all come in handy.
  
  

  New Bikes
  

  
  

• An Upgraded Dolan Precursa at £Whateveryouwanttospend is just so customizable and awesome and the pricing is great and really everyone should get this if they can. I'd highly suggest opting for the front brake, miche pistard clincher wheelset (tubular if you're riding track ONLY), and sugino75 crankset options. You can even get direct drives for only £109 extra ( a $500 crankset whaaaat) so that's cool. If you really want to dive headfirst you can get clipless pedals too, but if you don't know what those are definitely make a post in the weekly questions thread.
  
  
• The Specialized Langster at $650 retail is a super solid street and track bike. They go on sale sometimes for less and for $600 or less it's really a no brainer.
  
  
• The Wabi Classic at $750 has been my go to recommendation for a long time. It's made of super high quality steel has excellent customization options, and is all around awesome. The biggest downside is the super relaxed geo. If you want something that rides more like an average road bike check out the Special or Lightning
  
  
• The PoloandBike Williamsburg at £760 is a great option for European riders. The name brand finishing kit and artchetype rims give it that custom bike feel for a good value complete bike. If you swap out the front tire and maybe upgrade the crank this bike can be truly superb.
  
  
• The All-City Big Block at $950 is easily the best looking bike on this list imo, but that aside it's a super ultra double awesome track bike. Really well rounded and could easily be the last fixed gear you buy. One thing to watch out for is the long top tubes that all city loves so much so take a close look at that geo chart.
  
  

  Used Bikes
  

  
  Another great thing about this price bracket is the used market. I daresay it is easy to find outstanding value bikes used in this price range if you know what you're doing. I helped a friend source this for $1100 and we were being choosey! Again, if you need help post in the questions thread or just PM me because I like helping people with this stuff.
  
  
  
  
  
  

Enjoy the FX! I'm rocking the 7.5 and I am completely in love with cycling. Here's a few words of advice:

Ditch that cable lock. I can walk up to a bike with a cable with a five dollar tool and have it for myself in 10-20 seconds. Get a U-Lock and rope. The correct answer for how many locks or what kind of locks to use is how many you are willing to carry. This will depend on your location as well. U-Locks + ropes typically require an individual to have a hacksaw, grinder, etc. I live in a smaller college town and mostly just have to worry about drunk assholes so that works perfect. In other areas more heavy duty and smaller U-Locks are more necessary. This will probably work fine and is cheap unless you're in Detroit or something.

Fenders. I feel like that should be your next investment unless you bike a lot at night. I bike a ton at night and decided to invest in great lights after almost being hit by both cars and bikes several times. The first time you have somewhere to be and go through a puddle, the fenders pay for themselves. These are what I rock and I go through puddles / lakes which I probably shouldn't. I stay nice and dry while my friends breeze through them and get completely soaked.

Racks and bungies are great for the FX series. Like others mentioned, this is just a fun bike. I use it for recreation, commuting, bar hopping, exercise, you name it! A rack and a bungie net makes it awesome and Ortlieb panniers are an even better addition.

Besides fenders however... the seat and pedals (maybe) are the next things I'd recommend to look at. The pedals look metal in that picture, but if there's plastic, toss them. Well, I guess you can use them. It depends on the rider, but there's a pretty good track record of the FX series stock pedals only lasting roughly 500 miles before they completely break. Obviously this will vary by user. These are my favorite commuter pedals because I can go clipless later or I can commute at the same time without switching out. These are cheaper and better for commuting just because of the pricing.

As for the seat, your ass will never get more comfy than sitting on a brooks.

Enjoy the FX, it's a wonderful machine and I cherish mine. I was biking to work for the first time in a month (been on vacation) and I forgot I had to go to work. I accidentally biked a few extra miles down the bike path before I remembered I was commuting and not going for an enjoyable bike ride. Careful, it becomes an addiction.

And here's a shameless plug for my pride and joy. It still had the old pedals, saddle, fenders and needs an updated snapshot.

Delta Airzound 115db horn

Mount a pump to the frame under the water bottle cage.
I like the Topeak Road Morph

Get a Saddle Bag and fill it with

• 2 spare tubes
  
• Patch Kit
  
• Tire Levers
  
• Small adjustable wrench (if you don't have QR skewers)
  
  Optional but handy
  
  Bike Multi Tool
  
  2 CO2 cartridges
  
  CO2 Tire filler
  
  

Biking in the rain isn't very fun. It's not too bad, but your tires can slip on some surfaces (usually metal). I had to cross some railroad tracks on my route and the tires could easily slip on the metal surfaces.

Also, in the winter, you'll want to wear gloves, otherwise your hands will get pretty cold from the cold air.

Develop a system to make sure you packed your clothes. I've left a few times for work without packing a shirt.

You may want to invest in a bike horn. I have one like this. It helps to alert cars to your presence, but will probably scare pedestrians, so be careful.

Also, you'll probably want to wear sunglasses, otherwise debris can get into your eyes.

I'd invest in a decent quality road bike. Mine was a $1000 Trek, but that's maybe a slight step above entry level. A good quality bike will cost you over $500. Road bikes are so nice. I was able to consistently go around 20 MPH. with bursts up to 25-30. I actually used to take a lane in rush hour traffic when I lived in my downtown area. I could keep up with the stop and go traffic and it was a great workout.

Wear a helmet!

Get lights, especially for winter when it gets dark earlier.

Visibility is key when riding near traffic, get reflective tape for your bike and reflective ankle bands so cars can see you.

Bike defensively. Worse accident I got in was when I was going by an alley and a car came out of the alley and didn't see me. Luckily I saw them so was able to avoid too much damage.

Either learn to do the maintenance yourself or take your bike into a shop to get maintenance every year or so.

Anyway, good luck! I enjoyed biking into work. I need to get back into it, but it takes good self discipline to wake up early enough to bike into work. I was lucky enough to have a locker room and showers at my workplace, and a bike locker. I really have no excuses other than the fact that driving is so much easier.

These are an effective jogger alert system, even for ones that are using headphones.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Not that particular one, but this one. I clipped it to the visor of my helmet rather than wear it on my glasses. It took some getting used to, but by the second day I had the knack for turning my head to see what I wanted to in the mirror with ease. It looks silly and is easy to knock out of adjustment if I do not pay attention, but I like it. Seeing cars come up behind me was actually a little intimidating at first...ignorance was bliss :-)

Gold Standard mirror.

I use a Cygolite Metro 550. Love it.

I'd say plan ahead for your move back to Cambridge now and get a proper bike lock like the Kryptonite Evolution Series. No bike lock is 100% secure, but that one does a good job balancing weight, security, and price. It will deter casual thieves with simple tools (like a hacksaw or crowbar), which is about the best you can hope for and should be totally fine for your grocery trips.

The link I posted goes to a package with a U-lock and cable. This GIF shows you how to use the two of them together to make sure that the frame and both wheels are securely locked up. U lock goes around the seat stays (or rear wheel inside the triangle) and the bike rack, cable wraps the front wheel, downtube, and U lock.

My preference for lights depends on the type of conditions I'm riding in. In daylight or early evening, a blinking light is good for making you more visible. At night along dark paths, a solid light is crucial for being able to actually see what's in front of me. In dark conditions, a blinking on/off light will make it harder for other people to track you, which is why a combination is good.
In order to not worry about a huge number of lights, I like the Cygolite Metro which has a steady-flash mode where there is a solid light with a little pulse, so it both gives light and attracts attention without being annoying. I also have a taillight where the light moves back and forth instead of blinking.

I just got one of these for my birthday

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371169926&sr=8-1&keywords=bike+air+horn

I am excited as fuck to use it.

air zound

I agree. The air horns are so loud (maybe louder than a puny car horn?), and a LOT less weight. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

F getting a silly little bell. You want people to HEAR YOU:

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1302051755&sr=8-1&tag=thelexfiles05-20

Get one of these!

That's an airzound. (Or a knockoff... Does anyone make a knockoff?) I have one but the can is starting to rust out, and I'm genuinely unsure if I'm going to replace it or not. (Don't like the idea of a rusty pressure vessel!)

Here's the thing... when you need one, it's great to have. But the problem I have is that the actual trigger mechanism is so fucking huge that there's nowhere to place it on my bike that's within easy reach. As a result it's wayyy off-line for my thumbs so that I have to deliberately take my hand off my bars, search for the mech, and then push it. The upshot is that I'm only able to do that when I have a few seconds warning that I'm going to need to use it (this video would be a good example); it's definitely not something that you can place to reflexively hit in an emergency.

I guess if you had a cruiser with a coaster brake or a fixie that wouldn't be a problem. But I have a gear shifters and brake levers on both sides; there's absolutely no place to fit this giant butt fucking monstrosity on my bars within easy reach.

Not sure if this would scare them or make them worse, but you could try an airhorn or the airzound - http://amzn.com/B000ACAMJC . Its pretty loud and it may work with the other dogs of the road. ;)

I've got Kryptonite 997986 Black 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396797497&sr=8-1&keywords=new+york+lock+kryptonite ( I bought it for $72 )

Tougher steel, thicker, stubby, and locks on both sides of the U. Because it locks on both sides the thief would need to cut the lock twice.
The lock still can be cut with a battery powered angle grinder, but it will take longer.

All u-locks are not equal. Cheaper u-locks can be cut with bolt cutters.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYUf4h0Lv_8

Have you tried the TwoFish one? I use it with an A6.

To quote Mr.T - "pain"
I'd do no more than 20 (fairly flat) miles on a first ride. You're probably plenty fit - but bikes are different than running. Increase as you feel comfortable. You might rub your naughty bits with a good cream (nozxema) before hand, for some lubrication - and I assume you have property biking shorts with a chamois? You need that. I like a mirror on my helmet. Eventually you'll need clipless shoes & pedals (which ironically do have clips). And watch out for cars.

hotshots are good, built in battery, and really bright if you want them to be ( adjustable settings )

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

Not good for aero seatpost though

Cygolite has really good customer service too, i've contacted them on two separate times about replacement rubber buttons ( lost one in a crash, the other during my ride ) And they mailed me some at no cost.

My headlight from them is kinda poopy, but these taillights are great, mine is going on 2+ years with tons of use and never had any issues and battery still holds fine. Really easy to turn on/off while riding the bike too.

So you're going to buy something regardless, isn't spending an extra $50 once, worth the headache of replacing a bike, trying to deal with insurance etc...

I literally just bought this one for $40.

I'd suggest using a good U Lock like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469132985&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

Lock the frame/front wheel to the bike rack and loop the cable around your back tire. This should be enough deterrence to safely leave your bike outside.

That said, if the professional thieves want your bike, there's no lock you can get to stop them. I wouldn't lock up a $2000 road bike outside, but your bike should be fine I'd imagine.

A few bits of advice:

1. Don't lock it outside overnight. Keep it in your apartment.
   
2. Buy used. I don't know where the hell you can find a bike of any quality for $15, but you can get some for less than $100. Look on Craigslist, beware scammers, and please don't buy a bike from a bike thief.
   
3. Get a decent U-lock. This one is pretty good. Use the included cable to loop around your front wheel. The cable is a bit short, but it's long enough to get the wheel. Unfortunately it is NOT long enough to get both the wheel and seatpost, at least not on my bike. If you're worried about that, get a 7' cable instead. All locks are breakable, of course, but a decent U-lock will thwart casual thieves and encourage the pros to move on to the next bike that's less secured.
   
4. Don't ride drunk. Combined with #1, that means don't ride it anywhere if you plan on drinking.
   
   I've been riding an old mountain bike I got for $70 off Craigslist for a few years. It looks its age but it rides like a champ. Yes, it's silly that my locks cost nearly as much as my bike, but I don't care. I'm a little paranoid.

Pick up one of these brackets: Taillight Bracket

Then get any compatible light, such as: PDW Danger Zone or Nightrider Solas

The PDW Danger Zone is a better light, and cheaper, but the Nightrider is USB rechargeable. The PDW is better, because you can easily pair it with rechargeable AAA batteries. This allows you to replace the batteries as they wear out, toss a non-rechargeable battery in in a pinch. When used a couple hours a day, decent rechargeable batteries last over a full week. IMO rechargeable AAA > USB rechargeable.

Or, if you find a light you like with the standard CatEye-style rear light mount, there's this bracket that fits those: CatEye Rack Bracket CatEye mounts are square with small indents on the back, like this: CatEye Light (best picture I could find).

That said, depending on where you live, I'd really recommend looking into a dyno hub and dyno lighting. Lithium batteries really work poorly in the cold, and NiMH work only marginally better. With long, cold days coming, not relying on batteries is really nice. At the least, I'd recommend against lithium batteries if you live somewhere cold. Rechargeable NiMH aren't really that much bother, especially if you buy extras and have them in a charge-rotation...always fresh batteries.

I agree with all this, and in addition I would recommend just getting some cheap sports clothing from your local department store. No need to spend all that money on specialty bike clothes if your commute is only 7 miles. A general sports tee (in the US, my local Target has some sports tees in high-vis orange and yellow for $8) and some sports shorts. Make sure they're made from wicking material or you'll be miserable in the warmer months. For such a short commute though, padded cycle shorts are not necessary. My cycle commute is about 8.5 miles and I've never needed or wanted specialty padded cycle shorts. Most of the year I wear some cheap cargo shorts, in summer it's wicking workout shorts, in the winter I wear lined tights under my work slacks.

Use the money you save to buy some good panniers and fenders.

Get some good lights-- you'll want them just in case you find yourself cycling in low light or if it's cloudy and dark or foggy. At the least, get a good taillight.

If you're worried about sweat and don't have a shower facility available, baby wipes are very helpful. Carry some extra deodorant in your pack too. Bike your route in advance a few times to make sure you've got enough time to get to school and get yourself dressed/prepared.

I recommend this: Cygolite Hotshot 2W

They don't come stronger than this one..

Niterider Lumina 750 (or higher) is a great light

Bikes direct has a steal of a deal going right now on the 1100 boost: http://www.bikesdirect.com/incredible_holiday/lumina-1100-boost-lights.htm

Don't go less than 700 lumens, don't settle for a janky flashlight rig.

edit here's a good taillight too: https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y (these things are bright)

This is what I use for my handlebars: Night Rider Lumina 650

Bright USB chargeable lights FTW! I like to be able to see what kind of pot holes and rocks I'm approaching. Also, with 650 lumens, you can seriously intimidate cars. Their driving behavior changes noticeably every time they see me.

I also have a Cygolight Hotshot for my rear, but I just got a new bike and now cannot find a way to attach it to my aero seatpost. First world problem, I know. Suggestions?

Oh hey, my lights post! Yup, the Cygolite Hotshot is by far the brightest and most flexible of the sub-$100 tail lights. Unfortunately it looks like Amazon's increased the price recently - it was only $27 when I did my review a couple months ago. Now it's $35. Still cheaper than the suggested retail price though.

Basically what everyone else said, go to class. Yeah I get sometimes you're tired but really you'll do way better if you go. 9 times out of 10 you are not that person who can only show up for tests and get an A (or even a B). If you hate waking up in the morning either a: go to bed on time and/or b: avoid taking morning classes.

A bike is a good investment but you really don't need an expensive one (in fact I'd recommend against getting an expensive one, bike thefts are really high around the beginning of the school year). And if you do get a bike, and I can't stress this enough, get a U lock. They're super hard to cut and make a lot of noise in the process so most bike thieves won't bother with them but make sure to loop it through the front tire and frame. Worst case scenario, they'll steal your back tire but its better than your whole bike.

Someone mentioned that you should avoid apartments and go for housing. Honestly apartments are fine as long as they're not student living apartments. Avoid student living like the plague. They seem tempting at first, furniture and utilities included plus separate leases, but you're generally stuck with shitty cable/internet and the furniture is basically low end IKEA stuff. Yeah it'll be a bit more expensive getting furniture at first but you can find decent stuff for cheap on craigslist. And you'll save a lot more if you have people paying for single rent then individual leases.

I'd assume many of you will be looking for jobs. If you're trying to support yourself on a single fast food job you're going to have a bad time. They generally give you basic minimum wage and don't give you many hours to begin with. When I was working at TC I was making $70 per week max. My roommate who works at JJ makes about the same. Really the only way to get decent money doing fast food is delivery. Go for retail/grocery store jobs. They suck too but you'll get decent hours at least.

And last try to avoid spending too much time in your dorm/apartment/house/etc. It's okay to be introverted (but as cliche as this sounds) meeting new people is part of the college experience. If you live in a dorm, try hanging out in the lounge. If you're in the other living spaces, eat at the dorm cafeterias (terrible food but you'll meet people). And joining clubs is not a bad idea. There's generally something for everyone.

Depending on your location and school, having a gun in your dorm may not be illegal, but merely against the university rules.

If you are going to leave the firearm in your car, I suggest you disassemble it and take the complete upper (slide, barrel and recoil spring assembly) with you. Those components are not considered a firearm, and it leaves the receiver in your vehicle much less valuable a target for theft.

As for securing it in your vehicle, cheapest and most effective option is running a quality U-lock through the mag well and attaching it to a car seat frame (leave it underneath the seat).

This is a good U-lock:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417384536&sr=8-2&keywords=u+lock

I biked through Wichita Falls this summer on a cross country trip! Biking from Wichita Falls to Lawton, OK was one of my favorite days of the entire trip. Might not be the prettiest city, but some of the countryside north of there is great. (Also you guys have the Hotter Than Hell 100!)

For accessories you definitely want to get a hefty U-lock (this is a good one) and learn how to lock it up correctly. If you are going to be biking at night, get a front and rear light. If you are sticking to roads with street lights you need a "be seen" front light, if you are going to be biking in the real dark you'll need a higher powered "seeing" front light.

Here are the must-haves for anyone:

1. A helmet that fits
   
   
2. A portable pump like this Lezyne pump in case you get a flat
   
   
3. Backup tire tubes / patch kit / tire levers for the same reason as above
   
   
4. A good bike lock - I like this Kryptonie Series 2 kit
   
   Optional but nice to have:
   
   
5. Water bottle cage & water bottle
   
   
6. Bike shorts or bib
   
   Depending on riding conditions:
   
   
7. Bike lights/reflectors
   
   
8. Cold weather riding gear (pants/etc)
   
   
9. For commuters, panniers/etc
   
   
10. Or a small backpack

Here are some deals I've seen and when they come up or shut down. (All times are Pacific)


USB Rechargable Bike Tail Light on sale at 3:45

Foam Rollers go on sale at 4

Kryptonite 18mm New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock, Black Goes on sale at 3

Revolights bicycle lighting system Midnight

Womens Pearl Izumi Shorts

Pearl Izumi Jerseys 4:00

Different pearl izumi bibs

Pearl Izumi shorts 5:45

Pearl Izumi bibs as shown below 4:45

Canari womens shorts

Brooks saddles bicycle bar tap 2:45

Yakima DoubleDown 4-Bike Hitch Mount Rack 4:45

Very compact sleeping bag 4:30

Compact first aid kit 3:00

Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle Ulock 3:35

headlamp 5:30

Polar Heart Rate Monitor 3:30

LED Strobe Lights 2:30

Youphoria Sport Towel ends at 3:15ish



Sram Bar Tape ends at 2:50
Kryptonite NY Standard on sale 6:50

Even though U-locks are a nuisance, I'd stay with it. They're generally the most secure type of lock and if you get it through your frame and rear wheel, that's two sections of your bike you don't need to worry about. I always put my U-lock through my belt so when I'm on the bike, I don't notice it. I've got this lock and it's tiny. It came with a frame mount as well.

These are awesome. Extra batteries can be purchased on amazon as well as larger ones. They are equipped with a quick detach so it won't get stolen while off the bike. CycleGaz uses one.

I bought this light a while ago (it was $40 then, now it's $20). This thing is seriously almost as bright as a single car headlight.

I have now purchased 5 of these lights; 2 for myself, and after seeing them in use, 3 for the owner of the bike company I just recently left:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You cannot beat them for the money.

Imo spoke reflectors are better as you don't have to turn them on and they don't require batteries

Salzmann 3M Scotchlite Hi Vis Spoke Reflector Bicycle Clips - 36 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNG8DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v7SxCbKK6GHDZ

Looks like these are a similar product available stateside.

Honestly, your needs are really pretty minimal and your budget is more than adequate. Here are a few points to consider to get the bike to do what you want.

First, get a rear rack and panniers. This might cost $100-$150 out of your budget, but is VERY worth it because now you can carry things with you. Your commute is short enough that a backpack wouldn't be terrible, but if you want to pick up groceries or go longer distances then the backpack becomes a much less attractive idea.

Second, I recommend getting flat resistant tires for commuting. A flat tire sucks when you're on your way into the office. Count on spending close to $100 for a set of these. It sounds like a lot, but the difference in dependability is huge. I have Continental Touring Plus, but there are a few brands out there that have build a solid reputation.

Third, get a good lock, and use it. The bay area is bad for bike theft, even from places that you think would be safe. They're very easy to sell for a quick buck, no questions asked. Read up on how to lock the bike and how not to.

Fourth, get front and rear lights. Get good ones. It's staying light later now, but you want to be really visible to cars. I use a light like this in front: http://amzn.com/B00GJZ015Y

Happy shopping!

I like and use this light. On its max setting, it's too bright for lit streets or two way bike paths, but it's nice when I get out into my neighborhood with very little lighting. I usually use it on the first or second brightness setting on paths or roads. I've seen it as cheap as $35 or so on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-550-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTORC4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1485022128&sr=1-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+550

When it comes down to it, the other guy is right. It's really all about the angle of the light, not the lumens.

I recently was asking myself this same question, and consensus seemed to be the Air Zound is the loudest horn.

Delta Airzound Bike Horn , colors may vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l5xYxbDSGJVRP

But I don't like the idea of needing an air reservoir for my horn. I have been using this for a while:

Hornit dB140 Cycle Horn with Remote Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TDEV20/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_l7xYxb01YQYW2

It's very loud but ruined by the sound it makes: it's a chirping noise and people look up in the trees on shared paths instead of looking back or moving over. I ordered and just yesterday received this:

ORP SmartHorn and Bike Light - BLUE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3NK1O8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_K8xYxbH94B542

A light/horn combo, with two different sounds. It's loud, and if you get it off the Orp website they include the remote trigger for free. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet but my initial impression is very good.

I got this https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2IDGL70Q0N3KJ&keywords=loud+bike+horn&qid=1565366365&s=gateway&sprefix=loud+bike%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-3

It's kinda obnoxiously loud. But if you don't lay on it, it's not too bad.

this horn will at least get their attention for a moment.

Get yourself an Azound bike horn: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

That and a few loud "Coming through on the bike lane"!, usually clears it out.

I'd recommend a bike airhorn. Might seem absurd, but it's highly effective at:

• Getting drivers to put down their cell long enough to proceed through the green light.
  
• Clearing glassy-eyed, drooling homeless out of the bike lane (bells are often insufficient to overcome the drug stupor).
  
• Setting it off in the I-90 bike tunnel for your amusement (the echo is awesome!).
  
  https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Rechargeable (bike pump) Air Horn on Amazon.com for $24

It's something I've had on my bicycle touring bookmarks for a while, debating the purchase.

The AirZound was designed for you

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/

Won't ride without it.

I have the bike peddler Take-A-Look mirror and like it. Easy to mount and easy enough to see out of.

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_1?crid=YBU3RDTRBIS7&keywords=take+a+look+bike+mirror&qid=1569019872&s=sporting-goods&sprefix=take+a+loo%2Csporting%2C194&sr=1-1

I agree, Lawrence has a bike line for a lot of it and is comparatively stress-free.

If you don't own a helmet mirror, I highly recommend getting one for the city. It gives you a little picture-in-picture of what's behind you, so you don't need to turn away from your path to check over your shoulder. I got a lot more comfortable biking in the city when I bought one.
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1504314945&sr=1-2&keywords=helmet+mirror

If you want something to fill the tire quickly, go with CO2 canisters, you can't get any quicker than that. If you want something a little more failsafe, I have the Topeka Road Morph G. It's a little bulkier than most, but I've found it very reliable, and can fill high pressure road tires rather quickly. There's another version for mountain bikes which doesn't work as well on high pressure but works to fill up the large volume quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1375590423&sr=1-1&keywords=road+morph+g

This. Tops out at 160 psi. I have no trouble getting my tires up to 120psi.

If you like your bike, bring it inside. Locking your bike up outside is pretty much asking for it to get stolen.

I lent a friend a tri bike, told him very specifically to keep it inside. what does he do? locks it up out side and it gets stolen. That was $1000 down the drain.

Also, learn how to lock a bike properly and get a decent lock.

For just commuting and stuff I'd say go with a AA or AAA flashlight. they won't be as bright, but they will be much more versatile. Get some eneloops and you'll have a great system for years.

Personal favorite flashlight in the AAA dept is the Nebo Redline.

I know most people here like the Twofish Lock Blocks for holding the flashlight.

Or you could get the two as a combo.

That should be a good and easy to use system that's brighter than you really need for a price that's affordable.

btw, I'm leary of DealExtreme...they look fairly shady and there's not even specs for things like lumen output on a lot of those lights. Often you get what you pay for, and I'm guessing on those lights it's not worth the $8 you'd save.

I use these:

Two Fish Lockblocks Flashlight Holder
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rknsxb1RVXXRA

But I don't think think I'd use them offroad except for on a helmet.

They easily adapt to any of the flashlights I have, but will bounce/jiggle quite a bit on rough roads.

You could try a harder plastic one like this:

Leegoal Bicycle Bike Flashlight LED Torch Mount Holder 360° rotation Cycling Clip Clamp
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ADLUDSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8mnsxbQB4YCG8

I think they are called fish blocks. WOrks with any standard tube flashlight: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E

You can mount with this type or this type quite easily. There are others as well, but most are not as good or too bulky.

The only issue with using a flashlight is you have to be very careful not to blind oncoming vehicles/bikes/pedestrians with any light bleed (or badly aimed light).

My steering lock was previously broken by someone. I now put a heavy chain and lock through the rear wheel, like a Kryptonite lock. Two strong dudes could probably still pick it up and haul it away. The alarm idea sounds good. Another idea is to buy a cheap clapped out utility van, park it in your parking garage, and just keep the bike in there.

definitely was the truck, but super loud bike horns do exist.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

What about one of those really loud airhorns? It could put someone off guard without directly causing injury.

I raise you a rechargeable air-horn:

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC

This is the one that I have. I've been very happy with it!

You either ride on the sidewalk (which, IMHO, is totally fine if you judge the road to be extremely dangerous... don't ever risk your life... ) or gird your loins and take the fuck out of the lane. Light yourself up like a Christmas tree, get one of these, wear a reflective vest, and get ready for stressful nonsense and road rage. The ride MAY not be as bad as you think once a few additional factors are taken into account:

1. Traffic. Heavy traffic is your friend on these roads. I would imagine the lanes are pretty wide, so splitting them through heavy traffic will be pretty easy.
   
   
2. Pick your route. You may be able to whittle down the amount of REALLY fast road you have to ride on by taking some short detours.

That's awesome! You're definitely free to come by shop hours and ask advice and use the tools there. We've got all the bike tools you'd need for sure.

I'm sure if you post the picture on our Facebook page you'd get lots of helpful suggestions. To start you off, I'll recommend an Airzound horn. They're ridiculously loud and refillable with your bike pump.

I prefer helmet mirrors over bar-end mirrors for ease of installation and because your body will minimize vibrations that make mirrors harder to use. Out of the helmet mirrors I've tried, here's what I've found:

• Third Eye helmet mirror - Near garbage. Ball joint becomes unusably limp within only a few months of daily, all-weather use. 1990s versions use adhesive to stick to your helmet, so kind of a pain in the ass to set up or stick back on if the cold causes the adhesive to get brittle and snap off. Weirdly thick rim around the mirror. Newer versions use a forked design to slip onto a visor or eyeglasses instead, but given how well plastics do with wear and flexing, this just adds another point of failure. Wasted more time in high school on this thing than my time was worth, which is impressive considering I made about 25-50¢/hour working for the Boy Scouts during the summers only. On the upside, no vibration at all while it's still new and holds tight.
  
  
• Bike Peddler Take A Look mirror. Not that much more than the cheapo Third Eye model. Wire design highly adjustable. Mine's now moved to it's third helmet and outlasted the bicycle I bought it with. Larger mirror than the Third Eye model. Mine's 20 years old now, and the design on new ones is exactly the same as they were 20 years ago. A little on the springy side, can be a little annoying on rough surfaces as a result. Holds it's position extremely well. If you're going helmet instead of bar-end, start here.

Here are some ideas


http://www.amazon.com/Surly-Nice-Rack-Black-Cromoly/dp/B001GSQULS

http://www.arkel-od.com/us/all-categories/touring-bike-bag/t-42-lite-touring-panniers.html#!/more-details



http://www.amazon.com/Brooks-Saddles-Special-Bicycle-Saddle/dp/B001AYMOAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506572&sr=8-1&keywords=Brooks+B17+Special+Saddle


http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Alien-26-Function-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000FIE4AE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506625&sr=8-3&keywords=topeak+multitool


http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=pd_sim_sg_10


http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Suzu-Lever-Strike-Brass/dp/B001MS2KHA/ref=pd_sim_sg_90


http://www.amazon.com/Velo-Orange-Hammered-Alloy-Fender/dp/B004JKK1V0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367506912&sr=8-1&keywords=velo+orange+fenders+hammered


http://www.amazon.com/Ergon-Series-Bicycle-Handle-Standard/dp/B0015QWRM2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1367506936&sr=1-1&keywords=ergo+grips


http://www.amazon.com/Spenco-Classic-Glove-Beige-Crochet/dp/B0025UEWR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367507174&sr=8-1&keywords=spenco+gloves


http://www.amazon.com/Keen-Commuter-Cycling-Shadow-Gargoyle/dp/B003Z4KPFI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367507250&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=keen+bike


http://www.amazon.com/Gold-Bond-Medicated-10-Ounce-Containers/dp/B001G7QSS4/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1367507286&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=gold+bond

Rather than standard tire levers, I prefer to use a speed lever for changing my tubes/tires. Though I think I want to pick up one of their speedier levers, because that knuckle protection looks pretty sweet.

For a pump, I'm a huge fan of the Topeak Road Morph G. Though on one of my bikes I forgo the pump and just ride with CO2 and a chuck since I flat so rarely and it fit is my seat bag (though I still always carry two tubes).

And as others have said I try to never go for a ride without my multi-tool an ID some cash, a bank or credit card, and my phone.

A 2,500 dollar bike is a bit much, but if you really want to bring an expensive bike on campus, get a nice U-Lock!

This is the best one I've ever used. I have a pretty nice bike, and somebody tried to cut through this lock to get to it once. They only got through the few mm thick outer rubber layer, and then gave up. It's a bitch to cut through this thing.

/r/bicycling will be very happy to help you with this if you decide you want information. Here's the short version:

Locks aren't guarantees, they are deterrents. You just have to make your bike not worth stealing. Whenever possible, lock your bike in an area with plenty of pedestrian traffic, and where other bikes are locked.

Cable locks (example) are weak. They are for keeping somebody from walking away with your bike. If a thief has come to steal bikes, the thief will get this one, no sweat.

If you need something long like that, you can get a lock and chain (example) but be sure it's intended for use as a bike lock. Ordinary chain from a hardware store is too easily cut. This method is heavy and bulky, but it works.

My recommendation, to keep things affordable, simple, and convenient, is to buy a good U-lock (example). Kryptonite and On-Guard are popular, reliable brands, but there are others.

Most importantly, make sure you lock your frame to the bike rack. If you don't lock the frame, the battle is lost. Wheels are easily stolen, so lock these up as much as possible. If I'm being quick about it, I pass the U-Lock through the frame and rear wheel as well as the bike rack (the rear wheel is more valuable), but the front wheel can be detached to lock with the frame and rear wheel using the same lock.

You can look into locking skewers and such to protect your wheels and seat, but the priority is to use a good, strong lock to lock your frame and rear wheel to a highly visible bike rack. Also, keep a photo and detailed description of your bike WITH YOUR SERIAL NUMBER so that if anything happens, you can file a police report.

I've always preferred the Bike Peddler Take A Look Cycling Eyeglass Mirror:
http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

The compact version is very unobtrusive when attached to eyewear but you would need the original version and a helmet adapter kit for use attached to a helmet.

From Google image searching it looks like Presta valve. Quite a lot of pumps work with this type of valve except for the very cheapest of pumps. The valve is narrower than a schrader (like a car tire) valve, which allows your rims to be narrower and lighter because the hole in the rim for the valve is smaller.

As an example: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415395593&sr=8-1&keywords=joe+blow

Once I got used to presta I actually greatly prefer it to schrader. I have some old bikes at my parents house that use schrader and probably will put presta tubes in em at some point just do be done with it.

What's your price range? That affects the options quite a bit.

How dark is your area - are you looking for something to ensure cars can see you (i.e. do you have streetlights on your whole route) or are you going to need the light to actually see? That affects how much power you need.

For taillights, I love the PDW Danger Zone. Not that expensive, quite bright, and its variable flash setting is very attention getting. I have one on each of my bikes and never leave home without it.

For headlights, there are a lot of options out there. I commute down some dark bike trails at night, so I have a Niterider Minewt 600, which was the predecessor to their current Lumina 650. It's stunning - waterproof, durable, extremely bright (on high, I can go 20-25mph in pitch black with great confidence, and most of the time I just leave it on low or medium for fear of blinding people), very good battery life (I recharge it a couple times a month), and USB rechargable so I just bring it in at work occasionally and charge it there. It's not the cheapest, but if you're planning on bike commuting long term it's a solid investment (I've had mine for over a year and it shows no signs of dying any time soon).

Waterproof gloves.

I know you said you have shoes, but these covers are reasonable. I'm not a huge fan of the color, but winter above the 45 parallel is a dark time of the year and a little extra "I'M HERE" never hurts.

This jacket might seem a little expensive, however I own a few Shower Pass items and cannot say enough good stuff about the quality, durability and comfort of their gear. In my book, they are one of the best wet weather bike clothing outfits around.

There are a TON of options for lighting. Basically you want something on the front that is 400 Lumen or better. For the rear, I've been buying Cygolite's Hot Shot for years. They've always delivered and I've actually had several riders comment on how visible they make me to traffic.

Not sure if that model Schwinn has braze ons for a rear rack? Would strongly recommend adding one and getting a bag if you do. It's really nice not having the weight on one's back in the wet. Good luck, and welcome to the non-fair weather cycling gang. :D

If you aren't in a city with notoriously high and advanced bike theft, and aren't leaving it out overnight, try this: http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-Ls-11-5-4-5/dp/B005YPKBRI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020335&sr=8-3&keywords=onguard+pitbull

The long shackle is technically less secure, because it's easier to leverage open, but in a place without a lot of racks it's a blessing to have, because you can fairly easily find /something/ in short walking distance that'll go around, unlike the smaller Ulocks that mostly only work with racks (or, I've found, bikes without big bags and wide upright handlebars). It's a good medium security lock, and both sides of the shackle lock. Downsides, it's heavy, because big, but not as heavy as a chain which is your next smart option (don't get cable locks, they can be cut soooo easily), and the mounting bracket is OK, but I've had two of them fail. I just carry mine in a bag now.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463020570&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+series+2 This is a little lower security lock, but still a mighty fine one in an area with mostly thefts of opportunity. The included cable is for passing through your wheels for a secondary bit of safety. It's the best selling option at the good local bike shop out where I am (Indianapolis).

As for using them, this is the classic guide: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html His method is routinely the best, but without racks it can be hard to lock through the wheel and not the frame. If you can't lock through the wheel, make sure the shackle goes through one of the triangles. And, no matter what, lock to something securely attached to the ground and don't lock to anything the bike can be lifted off and over. Be sure and try lifting any cheap racks you do come across, you'll be surprised how many aren't bolted down right... or at all.

> -If you ride a bike around your campus: get a u-lock and a u-lock only.

And use it right. Through at least the the frame and bike rack, front tire if you can, and if it came with an extra chain/cable, loop that through the back tire.

This kind of lock set is what I mean.

Im so sorry this happened to you. I cant give any better advice than has been given, however, I have advice on how to prevent your next bike from being stolen.

I REALLY hope that cable lock in the picture isnt the lock you used. Using a cheap $20 lock to protect what I'm guessing is a $600 or more bike is asking for trouble. For your next bike, get locking skewers to protect your wheels. They make it practically impossible to remove your wheels when used right. Then get a U-lock, and use it anywhere on the frame. If you only protect your frame and not your wheels (aka if you dont get the locking skewers, or use a cable lock for your wheels), then you're looking at paying around $200 per wheel in aftermarket parts.

Locking Skewers:
http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-MinPin-3-Piece-Locking-Skewer/dp/B00773XY9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286334&sr=1-2&keywords=onguard+skewers

or the best:
http://www.urbanbiketech.com/Pitlock-Locking-Skewer-Sets-s/1.htm

For U-locks, any is pretty good, but the higher-end you go, the better, and DEFINITELY sign up for the insurance the lock comes with! Here are two of the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286741&sr=1-2&keywords=new+york+lock

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Sing-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B00470OYE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286786&sr=1-2&keywords=blackburn+u+lock

I'd buy this one instead.

I've personally been using that lock for the past year or so when I lock my bike at the train station.

edit: Fixed backward link syntax.

1200 lumen cree lights from amazon are around 20 bucks. A bit of hackery to mount them better than the kit it comes with but they are bright and rechargeable and so far mine has been really solid for the last 2 months

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4

> In a nutshell, I hate that all the battery packs for lights, run out in 20 minutes. All of them are ni-cd or nimh. Super expensive and I don't think that bike companies use the brightest LED's available to save on cost/maximize profit.

Then you haven't explored the existing market for bike lights appropriately. Look into Magicshine, Niterider, Lupine, Exposure, Cygolite.

They're mostly using lithium ion batteries. They all claim hours of runtime, depending on the setting. They're using LEDs that don't suck.

20 minutes? Ni-Cd? Have you even seen a modern bike light? The only really credible point you make there is that they're expensive, but that's really subjective, and in my opinion, also not true.

Exhibit A:

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/

I own three of these and one MagicShine 808. They are functionally identical. I have put them side by side, and they perform identically. I mount one on my handlebars with a wide-angle lens and one on my helmet focused as a spot beam. With this setup, I can ride my 4" FS trail bike through the woods, over demanding trails with multiple 1-2 foot drops, in pitch black. For less than $30 per light.

You could argue, then, that the Magicshine is a ripoff for charging about three times the cost for a functionally identical product. I might agree, I don't know enough about Magicshine's costs and business to really say whether they're price gouging. But in their defense, their products do seem to have a lower reported failure rate by users. The knockoff lights work when they work, but a higher number of customers receive a dud or experience failures of the product with the knockoff. Mine are working dandy, and even if two fail, replacing them will still be cheaper than having bought MagicShines, though I do understand that some people might not want to deal with that kind of product failure.

So I don't mean to insult, I mean to warn you: If you honestly believe the quoted text above, then you have no idea what you're talking about with regard to the current bicycle headlamp market and you need to research this more thoroughly before you start making business plans.

I got this back in January and it hasn't died on me yet. All but the lowest setting is too bright for city streets. I keep it aimed down and use the wide angle lens (sold separately) to get better spread.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Nothing wrong with the reflectors. But if you want something nicer looking, spoke sticks are a good candidate and are highly visible at night.

Man, thanks everyone for the responses. I promise I was never trying to be a jerk with the flashing light. I'll not do that anymore (I of course knew it was bright enough to get noticed, didn't think about peoples' lack of ability to perceive motion from the flashing).

I'm going to try the suggested tip to aim the light from 50m at a wall tonight. Also going to see about finding a good and/or diffuser lens for my light. Between these changes, hopefully I'll have better outcomes.

I don't have to ride in the dark enough to buy a more exspensive light, but who knows, maybe Santa will come thru.

FWIW drivers are still jerks sometime, no matter what we do. BUT, hopefully I can be safer, make them more aware, and not ruffle their feathers (too much, a little can be productive! ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ).

For all those in the US that do so, enjoy your Thanksgiving! For the rest of you--enjoy your day anyway!

I have flashing LED lights which you can't miss in the dark. Red in the back and white in the front.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just one, I had bought a bunch of light up junk totally unrelated for a silly race, and it happened to fit perfectly around the board. Well, perfectly around my board, with those particular bash guards on.

I folded the light strip in half, marked it, taped it center front (just to hold it in place), and put the bash guard over it to lock it into place.

With the hot glue gun, I did one small section at a time. One squeeze of the trigger worth, and then pushed the light strip into it all the way, so it made good contact with the board. Don't try to smooth it like caulk, it'll get weird.

The light strip ends just as it reaches the rear bash guard with about 1 cm space left on each side. So whether or not it looks even depends on how well you centered the whole thing.

With the head and tail light on, it looks pretty good, I think. I Prime Now'd the same Blitzu bike tail light from another post on here that I can't find at the moment. And then ordered the headlight that I figured might fit on the front truck. It does. Barely. Sort of. If you turn hard, you might into some issues. I have yet to really test that before I get a second one. The neat thing is that the headlight(s) now point into the direction I'm turning.

A few more photos of various angles.

Budget's too low to buy a quality lock. Just browsing Amazon.ca and the cheapest one I would recommend is this one.

There are some OnGuard ones too for less, but the reviews were mixed and some said that the locks freeze in the winter. You could check those out if you want but read the reviews because they do some sneaky things like making the U part thinner to save on weight (but it actually just makes it a easier lock to break).

Instead of something that's simply heavier, I'd go with a U-Lock + cable combo. The smaller you can get the better! Harder to break if it's really tight to the bike. Here's a great mini version of the above lock style: http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1450290745&sr=1-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock+mini

Good luck finding your bike.

mine is a little shorter and thicker and hasn't let me down yet(also nyc)
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373928708&sr=1-15&keywords=bike+lock

As far as a lock goes, your best bet is a U-Lock with cable (similar to this - try to buy it locally!) AND to take it up to your apartment when you're home. There is absolutely no reason to leave your bike outside your apartment, even on the balcony. If you can fit it into your apartment that will be the best way to prevent it from getting stolen, and also keep the components from corroding from the humidity.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is what i have, for when you do get a better lock i recommend that

As for a headlight, I have one like this. It's extremely bright and has three settings: high, low, blinking. I feel extremely comfortable with this on my bike and it lasts forever. I also opted for the wide angle lens that I think works great for riding on roads as it doesn't shine directly into the eyes of vehicle drivers.

For a taillight, I have this one. Again, it's got a few options for blinking/solid lights/etc, and the blinking option is super bright. I rode at night once and turned around to see if I could tell how far it was casting and I could see it reflecting off a stop sign about 1-2 blocks away.

One suggestion for a helmet (I don't know your budget), but I backed the Lumos Helmet on Kickstarter and received mine last month. It's awesome, and I feel way more visible with it than with a normal helmet. Plus the turn signals are a major plus!

It'll probably work the same as any of the other clones like this. They're okay. It really depends what you're using it for. It's probably all you'll need or want for riding sedately on pavement.

If you're in the US, and especially if you're a Prime member, you'll save some money buying it through Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/

And the clip lights here:
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1603/10000852/1072900-3-mode-2-led-red-light-tie-on-bike-light-keychains

It doesn't save you much, but savings are savings.

This is the current "best headlight for the money" winner at Amazon :

4 Mode 1200 Lumen CREE XML T6 Bulb LED Bicycle bike HeadLight Lamp Flashlight Light Headlamp

It doesn't use USB for charging, but that's kind of a good thing as its charger puts out more power than a standard USB port does so it charges faster.

As for a tail light, the winners aren't so clear, but so far I'm fond of the $5 Planet Bike Super Flash clones at DX.com -- get two of those and I'm set.

I got this light for $17. People always tell me its one of the brightest lights they have seen. You can also get a wide angle lense for it. I've had it for about 6 months. So far so good.

I have two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One on the handlebars and one on my head. The batteries need a little modification to be waterproof, but besides that, they work great.

Magicshine. I dont know how to insert links. I ride full on dh at night with one of these strapped to my head. Helmet mount can be found on amazon too. Best light for the money imho.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QQX3C4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1368823682&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

I think these are the good ones:

https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

Most bike lights concentrate the beam straight ahead or behind and don't do much to make you more visible from the side, and when navigating city traffic it's often quite a good thing to be seen from the side. Wheel reflectors are good, and I really think are advisable on both wheels though I prefer spoke reflectors such as these they shine up brighter than most reflectors in headlights but are probably less noticeable than reflectors in daylight.

An even brighter alternative is wheel mounted lights, I recently tried one of these and liked it enough to get some more from my wife and brother. Pretty small and light and surprisingly bright, really makes you much more visible from the side. The best feature is that they turn on automatically when it's dark and they sense movement so it's one less thing to remember to do when you set off. Only had them for a few days so can't say anything about reliability but for £6 I'm happy to risk it.

Here you go

Other users have mentioned lights and vests, so I'll mention a very cheap, useful visibility enhancement: spoke reflectors.

Put these on the spokes of one half of each of your wheels. (By that, I mean for example on all the spokes of the top half of the wheel when it's at rest.) It will improve your visibility to drivers approaching from the side, and you will be immediately recognizable as a cyclist. The drivers will see reflective strips moving around in circles and immediately think "wheels".

(If you get these, take them off your bike when you clean and re-lube your chain. I learned the hard way that when they get oil/grease on them they lose a lot of reflectivity.)

https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

these are amazing for visibility!

Scotchlite spoke reflectors, you can get them cheaper if you shop around.

Agreed. I have been using these spoke reflectors:
https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

If you have silver spokes they are almost invisible.

Sure! Honestly, I don't see any headlights that I'd buy but the Cygilite 2W is pretty good. For a headlight you could do really well getting a high lumen light from Amazon. I use a rechargeable one that I've used for over a year now and it works great. Similar to this one.

I posted this at r/cycling with no responses so I'll try here since it seems more active.

I am in need of a light (soon).

I am starting to ride my bike to work, and with winter setting in I'll be riding in the dark when it's not freezing out. I ran across these two lights on Amazon, are they any good?

1st choice: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-1

2nd choice: http://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-LIFETIME-GUARANTEE-SHIPPING-INTENSITY/dp/B00GGR0XD0/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1410199224&sr=1-3

Those were the top two ranked so I'm not married to them, just trying to get a feel for what I should look at.

I'm riding on streets/frontage roads for 10 miles each way, about 40 minutes of ride time each way. I'm not opposed to an external battery pack. If it matters my bike is a Trek 3900 that is a few years old.

Thanks!

I got a couple of cheap Bright Eyes Headlamps off Amazon. They're not the best head-lamps in the world, but more than good enough for riding, and the price is right.

Night-riding is the best way to beat the heat, and also gives you a nice perspective on the trails that you ride. I really like it - it kind of strips away a lot of distractions, and leaves just you and the trail.

It keeps me riding through Australian summer, and through the heat in Houston.

It depends on the route and season. If it's going to be a wet ride with 14 hours of no sun, then I run a dynamo hub with lights. The S&P hubs are relatively cheap. And I pair it with a IQ2 LUXOS U, though I am looking into an Exposure Revo MK1.

For speedier rides in the 5hr zone, I'll strap on one of these. The beam is a bit narrow for road use and it is symmetric so you have to be careful about blinding drivers. A spare battery is also pretty cheap, so you can have 10hrs of for $60 which is probably the best deal anywhere.

Finally, if I am doing something short like a 300/400k (well some 400k anyways), I'll throw on an Nightrider Lumina 750. The 5:30hr rating may be a bit optimistic, or my lights are getting a bit old.

As for lux... yea it's a German standard thing. I always wiki it (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lux) and look at the examples they have. You can also see an example of that beam here: http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/headlights.asp

It looks about the same output as my Nightrider at 200lumens.

I got 2 of these lights: http://www.amazon.com/Best-Rechargeable-Lumen-Bicycle-Light/dp/B00GJZ015Y/

Slightly more expensive at $40 each, but is one of the best reviewed "Magicshine 808 clones" on Amazon and the seller apparently has some of the best customer service (I haven't had to deal with issues yet, but they did send me 2 wide angle lens for FREE after I emailed them).

Real world test is probably nowhere up to claimed 1.2k lumens, closer to 800-900, which is enough for me now. I might grab another one so I can mount 2 on the handlebars side by side.

Note that many of the higher 1.6-3k lumen lights, even the $100-200 MagicShines, have heat issues when running on high for long periods of time, which could affect component lifespan.

Could you explain this more?

As I see it, you want lights that can be charged by USB while they're lit. But you don't want to buy a USB battery charger just for the lights, and you don't want to charge lights at night as well? But by using a battery pack to power stuff, you'd have to recharge the battery pack at night anyway.

EDIT: and a lot of lights, like the Cygolite, charge via usb, so they could be recharged by a USB battery pack

Blitzu Cyborg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IFA03I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hT.lDbK9W0JPF

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2T.lDb3DRK579

This one is my favorite of the lights I use, and it's rechargeable:

https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376731&sr=8-6&keywords=

This one also works great, and runs on 2x AAA batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Omni-Bike-Light-Rear/dp/B008QVXQ1K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376770&sr=8-8&keywords=

For the front, I use this thingy with any number of rechargeable (18650 powered) flashlights that I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511376885&sr=8-1&keywords=

https://www.amazon.com/Blitzu-Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC

Here's what I have-

Backpack: https://www.dakine.com/en-us/bags/backpacks/street-backpacks/mission-25l-backpack-17w/

Helmet: https://triple8.com/product/the-certified-sweatsaver/?category_name=skate

Shoes: https://www.vans.com/shop/suede-canvas-old-skool#hero=0

Pads: https://triple8.com/product/saver-series-3-pack-box/?category_name=skate

I only used all of the pads for about the first week or so, but I still wear the wrist guards-they've prevented serious injuries!

​

Board light (tail of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Board light #2 (front of the board): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IFA03I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Backpack light (goes on my backpack strap, or hooked to my jacket on my forward facing shoulder): https://www.olightstore.com/h1r-cool-white.html

Back Backpack light (goes around my backpack): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1SM2NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The board lights aren't super bright, they're mostly so people can see what I'm riding. The O light makes riding at night very safe, and my back light has great visibility.

As for tools, I carry my skate tool and a couple of hexes, and some spare belts. I have a charger I leave in my office and one in my backpack all the time.

​

Hope this helps!

It was a this one

It's great, stupid bright and lasts at least two full days but I try to charge it everyday at the office.

One of the things I like most about living here is not needing a car. There are certainly some places I avoid biking to/through, especially at night, out of concern for my safety. If I need to go there, I just use lyft, or get a ride from a friend.

Someone else mentioned that there are no bike lanes - this is not true. There are bike lanes on some roads, but not as many as I personally would like. That said, there are a lot of pretty narrow streets, especially in the quarter/marigny/bywater that simply don't have room for bike lanes.

One recommendation I would make is to get a bike airhorn for the moments when drivers aren't paying attention/don't care about bicyclists/aren't exactly sober, which seems to happen a lot here. This has saved me on quite a few occassions.

Wow... put a baby carrier on there... Just wow. That is so awesome. I want to get one and paint it black with yellow flames, and put a doll in it.

As for bells. You're doing it [wrong](http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC "This will put the fear of god into them.").

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

of limited utility.

This is the best option. If you really want to send the drivers a message, you could get an Airzound

Forget a bell. Get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC

Might I suggest this bike horn
I just bought one a couple weeks ago and it has already saved me multiple times. Super loud and makes people jam on their brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC


Yes, just recommended this elsewhere in the thread.

Excellent investment.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Have to use the frame pump(or floor pump at home) to refill though!

Here ya go. Loud as FUCK

These things are loud:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Delta-AirZound-Rechargeable-Bicycle-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC/

Best not to use them on pedestrians though.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiJMuSBLxzg

Delta Cycle Delta Airzound Bike Horn

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x2qoyb38HAP1S

Not a train horn, but also not expensive: https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC?sa-no-redirect=1

My coworker has an air horn on his recumbent trike. It hooks up to a bottle and is refilled with a bike pump. It is loud. Something like this.

example video made me laugh :D

hmeeep

Honestly, if you live in an area that's urban enough to commute by bike, you either need a mini-lock for your front wheel, a nice long chain lock, or buck up and secure your bolts.

First off: spring for a ulock. Might I suggest this one. Don't get one too long, this size (7 inches) is about the max you want to go, and unless you have a beefy mtn bike will clear the rear triangle/wheel with room to put to a pole. This will secure your bike very well and give little traction for people to put a pry bar into it. The Kryptonite Evo series is a good balance between weight and strength, but remember that with time and force anything can be broken into.

With the rear of your frame and tire secured connect a thick wire to the lock (the one included will work and is lightweight) and loop it through your front tire. It won't take very long with good bolt cutters to chop this, but it will thwart anyone looking to quick disconnect your front tire and run with it.

As for the light: does it have a quick disconnect to it? If not, look into acquiring one, or building one. A lot of bike thievery is on accessories/front tires/seats/crappily locked-up bikes. If you have an expensive seat, put a thin wire around it and connect it to your ulock and/or get hex or other bolts for your seatpost. They make security bolts which require a special head for seatposts/tires/etc.

Spend a little bit to save your investment/transportation. If you lock it up well it will be less of a target.

When on-campus also check out the Evergreen Bike Shop which is a volunteer-ran (I volunteer during the school year so come say hi) free bike area for you to work on your stuff in. Check the sxhedule to see when it's open and call ahead to make sure someone is there. All the tools are free to sue and there are free parts bins all over. Tubes and other items can be purchased for a great price, as well. They don't do the work for you but can teach you how to maintain your cycle if you lack knowledge in this area.

Have fun!

The kryptonite mini is $35, but is an absolutely fantastic lock if you want to go up that high:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000OZ9VLU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0811NS4PXZAZSRVRJC83

I'm sure there are lots of other good U-Lock options on amazon and other retailers though, just take a look around.

Yeah it's a Kryptonite evolution mini, a good strong lock, that doesn't weight much (compared to say the very secure fahgettaboudit, although you will have to be a little bit more picky about where you lock it up to get it through your back wheel/frame/non-movable object.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000AMPRG0/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=103612307&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B004C94T84&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=15K44FMXMSFQEH9M6QNX

I use this one when on my road bike and love it. Real glass and good view : Bike Peddler Take A Look Cycling Eyeglass Mirror (Original) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C17M26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pfK7AbNJE12AJ

This one is installed on the bar end on my commuter. Glass, good optics, wide field of view: Mirrycle Mountain Bike Mirror https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BR4NIC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ShK7Ab0A8YWC2

Mirrors have saved my bacon multiple times and I don’t ride without anymore.

I use the original version (size option) of this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C17M26/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I never ride while carrying anything. That's what panniers are for. As others said, get a rear view mirror. I got this one and love it.

I agree with the mirror. I am way more confident doing left turns and lane changes after getting a small mirror on my glasses. Right lane changes are kinda terrifying now though :) This is the mirror I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C17M26

What kind of pumps did you have trouble with? Stem mounted ones I presume?

If you're still interested in a pump, I'd recommend you get one with a hose. I have a Topeak Road Morph G and it works great. It functions like a floor pump so you can use your body weight when pumping.

I've got the Topeak Road Morph G which I'd give a 8/10 after using it as my exclusive pump for almost a year. The build quality seemed okay at first but it's showing signs of age quickly and after being mounted to my frame is collecting all sorts of sand and dust internally that is affecting its performance – I should probably clean it. On the plus side, it's large and easy to use even to get high PSI and it has a built-in PSI. On the downside, it's large and somewhat hard to mount on my frame.

This is the best advice here. As for a pump, if you're going to go with a regular pump this one is what seemed to come up the most when I searched this sub and it's served me pretty well. It does kinda rattle a bit when riding, though. Down the line you'll probably want to get a regular floor pump, too, something like this maybe.

I'd also agree that gloves aren't necessary. Also agree with two cages and two water bottles. I started with just one bottle but quickly realized that I need two. Any old cage will do, and Camelbak Podium bottles are a popular choice. I got the clear one so I can tell at a glance how much water I have left.

Get a pump with a little hose. And a pressure gauge built in is nice too. The hose makes it so much easier to pump because you can push against the ground to inflate. I have this one, I recommend it. It goes up to 100 psi easy so works for tubliss. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_V-9Vzb90SXVD4

There is nothing cheap or shitty about this lock and even the less intense locks are pretty damn solid and could easily be compared to locks twice their price.

This is a nice mini u lock

How big of a lock would you need?

I'm a fan of the Kryptonite New York series personally. They're super heavy duty...I can't imagine cutting through one...There's a 4x8 and a 4x10.25

I use the 4x8 to lock my frame and back wheel, and one of these bad boys to lock my front wheel to the frame.

It's overkill...I know...but I'm in New York.

Amazon is actually very reasonably priced on all of those by the way...if you're looking to order online.

As someone who has gotten a bike stolen I cannot recommend this u-lock strong enough. I have a pretty expensive road bike, and using two of these has keep me safe ALL this semester. HIGHLY recommend. The only con is that these u locks are heavy--they're built like bricks though. Don't skimp out on the locks--you'll regret it. Also, remember to lock your wheel and frame to the bike stand, and to lock your back wheel to the frame. Sometimes they'll simply take your wheel so don't risk it!

good questions. this mini u-lock combined with a cable [to secure front wheel, too] is what is now used by most who are serious about securing their ride.

and these two rack designs are typically preferred in the u.s.:

new york city rack - nyc is making this their "city approved" rack after a thorough design contest. bikes can lean against it to be stable; can lock the front, rear, and frame easily; and it looks very clean from a design standpoint

typical "u" tube: these are found a lot and function very similar to the nyc rack. aesthetically they're not as nice but a lot cheaper and good function. you can see how the yellow bike can secure both wheels and the frame.

btw - what country?

Look into the Kryptonite Evo Mini or Fahgettaboutit mini U-locks. They're about as small and light as they come without compromising security or getting a lock designed for a chain.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1311793787&sr=8-2

In that case, nothing less than this:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1304026133&sr=1-3

If it's a really nice bike people -will- strip the parts off it, in five minutes with some hex keys your shifters, rear derailleur, etc can be gone. In a Shimano component world I wouldn't lock any new model bike with better than Deore (MTB) or 105 (Road) components in public. For SRAM, not better than X7...

Naiveté.

Moved from a suburb (where I could have left the bike unlocked in the back of a truck for 2 hours without a worry in the world) to a city for work. Brought the Giant Escape 2 my Dad had given to me, but only had a cheap cable lock and hadn't been given access to my work's bike cage yet.

3rd day of training, my start group and I were headed to happy hour. I walked outside and the bike was gone from the rack outside the office.

I was able to look at the security footage; some dude literally walked up, cut the lock discreetly, and walked away like it was his.

Filed a police report, and went to happy hour. Then I bought the Escape 3 and a Kryptonite U-lock and didn't bring the bike to work until I had bike cage access.

I went all out and got the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit:

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000OZ9VLU

This lock is small, but JUST the right size to lock your bike, with no room for anything to get in to pry it. It's a very solid lock.

Let's be real here....locks are only deterrents for honest people. If someone wants your bike, they'll find a way...


But to OP...if you want to make it a damn tough job to get your bike, invest in one of these...

http://smile.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413005358&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+new+york

Your lock is only as strong as the weakest link so don't skimp on anything else if you're going to get this..I've held it in person it is pretty heavy...I'd say a good 4 or 5 pounds even though Amazon says 1...it's definitely not only a pound. But there's no way you're going to cut that off with boltcutters, you'd need an angle grinder. Keep that in mind if you're going to get it.

New York Fahgettaboudit, This is the bike lock I use, its expensive but its pretty much the only lock you'll ever need. Just the look of it alone is enough to make robbers look the other way.

Here's what I do for my Bullitt: One Kryptonite Fuhgeddaboudit (small as you can get), and a set of Pinhead lock set (locking skewers for wheels and locking seat post collar). A slim Tile under the cargo deck sealed with 3M Heavy Duty Packing tape.


With the pinhead lock set, you only need to lock the frame with the Fuhgeddaboudit U-lock (typically I lock at one of the lateral vertical braces parallel to the head tube, or if I have the big cargo box for the kids on the front, will lock around one of the rear seat stays).

Kryptonite Lock: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZ9VLU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pinhead lock set: https://smile.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B000XHBKOU/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1525893173&sr=1-6&keywords=pinhead+lock

I have a kryptonite fagetaboutit mini for the primary and employ two folding locks on the front a rear to cover the wheels. Usually a multiple lock approach means that many more cuts and will make your bike that much more unattractive to pilfer.
Stay away from any cable solution, they are worthless.

The Finn is a simple, compact, reliable phone holder.

The Fenix or any of a number of similar mounts can affix a small handheld flashlight to your bars or helmet. You have to take care with helmet mounts, because the extremely intense lights available can be blinding to drivers when you turn your head in their direction.

I use one of these along with I really good CREE LED flash light and a Planet Bike Superflash tail light. I have the Planet Bike blaze, blaze 1watt, and blaze 2 watt headlights and find that they are just not bright enough for where I ride. (I ride on completely unlit roads). Although I do LOVE the mount on the Blaze headlights.

I just posted pretty much the same thing about a week ago.

I ended up ordering this Two Fish Lockblocks Flashlight Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0cY0xb9DM7MV3 to use with my Astrolux S1 and it works fantastically. But it took a while to get here so before that I was using a couple of rubber bands and a paper towel to protect the paint, haha.

Edit: the BLF A6, which is identical to the S1 is on sale right now on banggood.

I use Twofish Lockblocks/flashlight holders on three of my bikes. They're cheap and simple and they stay put.

I've always liked Twofish lockblocks but there are cheaper alternatives in that style.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CXNY3G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&redirect=true

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJ45L6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZOMYM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KBEH1W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

ride safe

I've never owned a real bike light. The Fenix-Store used to sell these TwoFish LockBlock flashlight mounts and I picked one up when I ordered a replacement PD30 after losing mine 5 or 6 years ago. Have used it on 5 or 6 different bikes with handlebars ranging from skinny CrMo BMX bars to thickly-wrapped, fat mag-aluminum road-bike bars, and with every light I own (except the 1xAAA ones, which I could probably just clip to the velcro loop if necessary). From the narrowest part of an SC52 to a fat plastic incandescent 2x123 light; it holds it securely and doesn't swivel or move even on slick, wet leather or metal. The rubber helps absorb a little bit of the road vibration, but that's an issue with all bike lights I'd imagine. Got left out in the rain/sun/snow for over 2 years while its primary home was outside of a college building. Hasn't started to dry rot or fade or anything. And it hasn't been stolen, which is a miracle in this city. The bungee cords on my pannier rack have been stolen three times, as well as the permanent, screwed-on mount for my taillight (when my taillight wasn't on it), but they never took my little rubber/velcro doohickey. Oh and the Us are different sizes so you can flip it around to accommodate thicker lights or bars. If you have a really thick light and wrapped handlebars you might be in trouble...

Kinda weird to give such a raving review of a piece of rubber with two u-shapes and velcro straps... but as both a flashlight enthusiast and a frequent cyclist, it's helped me cut back on my gear since I can just slap whatever's in my pocket on my handlebars and roll. And then I don't have to invest a bunch of money to have a durable, waterproof, multi-mode (without PWM) bike light. The situation is different now, I guess. Since I assume you can get decent-quality LED bike lights for cheap just like you can get a decent ThorFire flashlight for 9 bucks.

Oh and Zebralights are crazy efficient. I miss my SC52. Even running a measly 840mAh 14500 I could use it for everyday tasks for a few weeks. I'll be picking up another ZL sometime soon :)

Next time get this setup: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524778156&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite+chain

It's a lot harder to break into these.

You can't get better than this.

It weighs a ton, and takes about 45 minutes to sawzall through.

The lock is a disc tumbler lock, so it can't be picked or screwdrivered. No non hydraulic bolt cutters can cut through it.

Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-Loc

Bike's not going anywhere unless they got a serious angle grinder (which some do, but probably not worth the risk of ruining the grinder trying to get an older bike)

Get a helmet mirror, I like this one a lot. It lets you keep an eye on what's going on behind you, instead of just looking once when you need to change lanes or whatever. Much safer.

Unfortunately not. The only way I'd know if anything passed me is by the pressure of object racing through which puts pressure on my side but then it'd be too late at that point to do anything. When I'm riding, all I feel are three things: the vibration of the handlebar and the ride, the wind noise that pass over my ears (yes, I can hear the wind but I cannot hear at frequencies that normal hearing would), and wind pressure on my body as I speed up / down. The pavement is simply not flexible enough nor is a bicycle's tires conductive enough to alert me ahead of time. That's why I have a mirror. The one I use and like very much is called "Take A Look" (https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO).

As long as it's not way too small or large for you, that's a good buy. I own a vintage road bicycle and enjoy it more than most modern bicycles I've ridden. That being said, my recommendations:

• Get a tune-up for sure, but don't paint it. It looks fine!
  
• Get some nice bar tape (perhaps cork?) and replace that nasty stuff
  
• Adjust your seat, it looks quite low; at the bottom of your pedal stroke your leg should be almost fully extended
  
• Since you have a quill stem, you can also easily drop your handlebars further down, or pull them further up probably
  
• Just as a word of precaution, you should invest in a nice pump with a gauge like this and check your tire pressure every few days (at least).
  
  Peugeots are definitely solid vintage road bicycles. I would have bought this if it were on my local Craigslist. As others have said, these are also great to convert to single speeds or fixies, but I'd keep it as a road bike. However if you wanted to sell it at a later date and you live near a college, it might be easier to sell it as a fixie ;).
  
  Congrats, enjoy the ride.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002B7LTBY/

I use this one and it has been great:

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_2/182-7405441-5301903?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1419998243&sr=1-2

My last pump was a POS and didn't have a built in gauge. I'm much happier with this one.

Definitely get a bib, not shorts. I hate the elastic in shorts, and bibs also don't shift around on you. I am a big fan of Voler and they also have some of their items on sale on their website right now.

You didn't specify which kind of pump you have. If you don't have a floor pump; get one. You will always want to top off your tires before you go out. There is a lot of debate on pumps, but I love my Joe Blow Sport.

Don't get a camelbak. I am in love with my camelbak for hiking, skiing, hunting, etc. but hate it for road cycling. It is uncomfortable in the road cycling position. I'm no expert, but it also seems to generate a lot more drag, which will slow you down. Get bottles instead.

I'm a huge fan of 24 oz Polar Bottle. They are cheap and keep your drinks pretty cold.

I would also recommend a quality energy drink if you are going on long rides (4+ hrs). I love Cytomax Tropical Fruit. Buy super cheap bottles if you are using energy powder, because they are hard to clean and get kinda gross after a while. Before I started using a good energy drink, I would tend to bonk out after 4-ish hours. Switching to an energy drink helped me keep going on longer rides.

If you bought all of these things, you would be just shy of $200. Things I'd consider but don't think are absolutely necessary are: gloves and a good jersey. Also a bike computer, but a lot of people are just using Strava on their phones. You can also buy another bib in case you want to ride multiple days in a row.

Hope this helps!

Edit: Definitely have a portable pump and/or CO2 inflator with you on your rides.

I have the Topeak Joe Blow for home and Topeak MasterBlaster on my bike. I'd recommend the Morph wholeheartedly - it's got more power than my MasterBlaster, due to its larger footprint and footstand. Should get you through most anything, but a good big pump at home is invaluable.

I purchased the joe blow 2 a few months ago. I've had to use it about every weekend to repair flats. So far it's done its job.

I use the Portland Danger Zone and like it. Really bright and attention getting. While not USB rechargable, the battery life seems reasonable.

[Portland Design Works Danger Zone] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00435IPFK?pc_redir=1412172978&robot_redir=1)
It's very bright and affordable.

I'd recommend a USB-rechargeable 2w rear light.

Do you want them to see in the dark, or to be seen?

These are the best:
http://www.dinottelighting.com/

They are not cheap.

Here is a much more affordable tail light:
http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1372712157&sr=8-4&keywords=cygolite+bike+lights

In my opinion, any of the super cheap blinky lights (e.g. Knog, ~$10) are a waste of money. They won't make you more noticeable. I don't know how much you care, but there are plenty of youtube videos demonstrating how bright some of these lights are. Without knowing your budget, it's hard to recommend something.

Thanks for playing along.

> Busch and Muller Ixon IQ Premium

Good This might be one of the most amazing light out there. Unlike many other lights they recognize that "good" isn't just pumping out tons of lumens. They put the light where it needs to go, on the road and not where it shouldn't be - in drivers eyes and in the trees. Them and Light and Motion have the best optics I've seen. There's a few tunnel beam test out there which show beam patterns well.

This review sold me on the light

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwM7vDvvGhU

They cover the beams at the end.

Now the thing is in this vid he's shooting pitch black, which all lights look bright in. Either way the flood is great.

Bad The high run time is listed at 3hrs (standard pretty much..) which is just long enough or a little too short depending on you. I wish more lights ran 4hrs on high as I take long rides with breaks in the middle. Itd be nice to not worry.

It doesn't have any side cut outs for visibility which do seem to help, even on very low powered lights.

Ugly

The main downfall for this light is its price, which I think is over $100. For some people $100 for one light isn't great. Some people might prefer to spend $100 on a different lighting setup (albeit likely with worse optics).


>Cygolite Hotshot



good

Crazy popular and a pretty neat light. I like the strong strobes and customizable flash settings for traffic

bright, unique flash patterns, affordable, good company.

bad

My big beef is it lacks a gentle pulse like this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UthVrhsbRr4

for group/night trail rides i dont want to blind people. also id love to run a pulse/flasher combo.

PDW (I think) makes a light that combines a crazy flash pattern with a gentle strobe, that might be king...

ugly

lots of complaints about the mount, going back to at lease 2012. last thing i want is to lose a light on a ride w/o knowing.

"This light is great for visibility and can be seen from far away. MAJOR DRAWBACK - the light is mounted to the bike with a very flimsy mount. every time i go over a bump the light is jostled and ends up pointing straight down at the ground which of course defeats the purpose."

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/product-reviews/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_top_recent?ie=UTF8&filterBy=addThreeStar&showViewpoints=0&sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending

My $30 tail light Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable by Cygolite that was recommended to me on Reddit. Its like Ron Jeremy the Hedgehog. IT just goes and goes its small but mighty but smells better than Ron. . I charged it once and it lasted approximately 42 hrs of use in warm weather.

Link: https://amzn.com/B005DVA57Y

also my REI Flash 22 pack for $33.93 is awesome you have to love the dividends.

If only the Urban lights and motion 200 was as good its a total piece of crap in cold weather it lasts one ride before needing charging in hot weather it needs charging every 5 hours. Their claim of 12 hours on low pulse is bull crap

When it comes to books, you should always wait until the first day of class so the professor goes over what you will need for the course. For some classes you might not even need a book at all! You will not be using the book very much if at all the first week of the quarter so you will be perfectly fine waiting until the first day or two to order your books! I recommend avoiding the bookstore because it tends to be overpriced. Amazon has much better deals if you want a new book. For used books, join the Textbooks for Sale Facebook page, which is part of the UC Davis groups on Facebook. Also, many people obtain their books in PDF format online or through others who have taken the course. While this is not legal, it does provide for a very cheap alternative to buying your books (but again, it is illegal in most cases unless the publisher has explicitly released the book online in PDF format free of charge!)

I live in West Village as well actually! If you are in a furnished apartment you will get a bed, desk, nightstand and dresser to yourself. You also get a TV stand, living room table, dining table, and a sofa included that you will share. I recommend coordinating with your housemates on what to bring. That is what I did and it is way better than bringing 4 sets of silverware, plates, etc. Is there anything specific you'd like to know about that you should bring? The bare minimum (computer, clothes, kitchen utensils) is what I brought and I am doing just fine!

As for bikes, I recommend a single speed or standard road bike for commuting. The commute from West Village to the middle of campus on bike is 5-7 minutes depending on how fast you biking.

If you are looking to spend under $300 then buy a nice, used road bike when you get to Davis. There is a Bikes for Sale page for UC Davis on Facebook that is regularly updated! Craigslist works fine too. If you are looking to spend $300 or more, ($300 to $500 can get you a good quality bike that will last you throughout college) I recommend checking out this website: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm

I personally ride a Single Speed and I love it! It has no gears so you don't need to worry about shifting. It is lightweight, fast, and reliable. I have the Windsor The Hour from BikesDirect (it was $300 when I got it). I recommend the Mercier Kilo TT if they have it in stock (it is extremely popular so it is hard to find in stock). Otherwise the Dawes SST AL and Windsor TheHour/Clockwork are great too!

Let me know if you have any other questions!

Edit: I almost forgot! Thanks for reminding me /u/nTranced. A good U-lock is a must in Davis. Bike theft isn't extremely common but it does happen from time to time. If you have a nice bike make sure it is locked up with a U-lock. I personally recommend this lock as it is a good combination of price and effectiveness: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405012899&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock

I bought this set as good decent lights, not the brightest, but enough to see in city/town conditions in the dead of night, probably okay if you are very rural;

http://www.amazon.com/Metro-360-Hotshot-2W-Light/dp/B00E1NQ696

As for helmets, more cost generally means lighter/more ventilation, depending on how much either of these means to you.

On locks, I'd suggest a set like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1396539131&sr=1-4&keywords=kryptonite+lock+combo

it will allow you to lock the frame/rear wheel with the U, and the front wheel with the cable. It terms of safeguarding your bike, it's more like defensive driving; how, where, time of day, amount of people around, prevalence of bike theft, are bigger factors than the size of the lock.

I have a Monster cable lock now and just read the reviews on the brand for the first time. Definitely need to upgrade. I am thinking about something like this. U-locks are supposed to be great, and the cable would help keep the wheels safe.

Speaking of limited means, people will steal a bike that's only worth $100. $100 can be a lot to someone with limited means. If they lose their bike and have trouble getting into work, they're out even more.

That sounds obvious, but I'm getting somewhere with it. The argument of "they should protect their stuff better" falls flat when you start talking about people of limited means. A "decent" lock runs about $35-40. That's a lock you're going to be able to break quickly if you have an angle grinder, or even just a long enough pry bar. To get really good (note: not impenetrable) security, you're looking at about $100. And that lock doesn't even include a cable like the $40 one did, so you're spending even more to make sure you don't get a wheel stolen.

So suddenly the person on the $100 used bike has to spend somewhere between an additional $40-100 to have a hope that their means of transportation won't get stolen. That puts an even greater burden on people with limited means.

Anything mid-range is fine. Ultimately, unless you want to lug a 20lb chain around, any sort of U-Lock or mid-range chain lock is sufficient for temporary lock-ups.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496868581&sr=8-3&keywords=kryptonite+u-lock

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUCSV7C/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00PUCSV7C&pd_rd_r=FZPWAHQ8MTTBST4PJ2P0&pd_rd_w=ngc6h&pd_rd_wg=RU5PQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C0QCXJ2M8NZ33CV8HY47&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop

I've used both of the above at places like Bradford Beach, restaurants downtown, and Bay View on pretty nice bikes without ever having a problem. Make sure you lock up your front wheel as well, I see a ton of pretty average bikes sitting there without front wheels cuz somebody just used the quick-release and walked off with it.

Hence why you by a U-lock. Expensive as locks go, but cheaper than a new bike.

I just bought one today. think this will do it?

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1422560442&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+lock

I'll keep my eye out. That being said, might as well brush up on the bare minimums for keeping a bike safe.

Register your bikes. Multiple online services offer free registration and stickers. UCIPD and IPD both offer registration services. When bike thieves are busted, they could be in possession of your bike. If your bike isn't registered, then the cops aren't going to be able to contact you. Your bike will then be auctioned off by the cops. I think the proceeds go right back into the department. so i guess if you really like cops.. don't register your bike.

Keep your bike indoors whenever possible. Even hundred dollar U-locks can be sawed through eventually. A lock is ONLY a deterrent.

When it is not possible to put your bike inside, opt for a heavy chain lock OR a U-lock (Even better: a combination of the 2). Most cable locks are sold as accessory locks. If your lock was bought for less than 20 bucks, it's only for show. ex. 35 bucks. Onguard is also a pretty okay brand.

even though irvine is a low crime area, because of uci, irvine's going to always be a target for bike thieves. Combine life inexperience with laziness, and you'll get sitting ducks like 200+ dollar bikes being locked up with what functionally amounts to pieces of string.

I would return what you bought and buy this instead.

It's the same price for a better lock combo.

Tbh I got a set of cheap silicone lights from China off Amazon. If you forget to take them off and they get nicked, it’s not the end of the world. I got three pairs IIRC. Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00FXO6MUA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524043742&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+lights&dpPl=1&dpID=41db7Haaa5L&ref=plSrch

For a lock, I bought this because it comes with a cable so you can also secure the front wheel of the bike (seen so many bikes with quick release wheels have had the front one nicked): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK8G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524043790&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bike+d+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41mBBM7BkYL&ref=plSrch

Thanks! Any tips for where to sit/how to hold the bike on mass transit? I was successfully able to hold it out a little bit so that 2 people could sit on either side of me and nobody licked the flood trying to walk around the bike.

I read how to correctly lock up a bike, and bought this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It has good reviews so hopefully it'll work out.

I use this to lock the frame and front wheel to whatever I'm locking my bike to and this to secure my back wheel to my frame. I also fun a wire through the second one to secure my saddle.

Locking your bike up is all about deterrence. A determined and knowledgeable thief can get through any lock. The best way to deter a thief is to make sure other bikes are more attractive targets. A good thief could get through both the locks I listed - and any other lock - with an angle grinder, but the trouble of getting through one very heavy duty lock as well as secondary one will make a thief think twice when 90% of the bikes locked up are going to be easier to steal.

As far as other tips: DO NOT LEAVE YOUR BIKE OUTSIDE OVERNIGHT! Bring it up to your apartment or dorm. This isn't always possible but the chances of a bike getting stolen go up tremendously if a bike is left out all night in the dark. When your out and about during the day, try to lock it in a well trafficked area and if possible somewhere where there are other bikes which - as I said - will hopefully be easier targets for theft. Better them than you bro.

your best bet is probably to find a reputable used bike shop and talk to them about your needs and what you're looking for. bike slug on bedford av. in brooklyn is an excellent place to go for that, as is frank's on grand street in manhattan. it'll cost more than getting a bike on craigslist, but you can also be sure that everything works correctly. the other reason i would suggest a used bike is that it's much, much less likely to get stolen in NYC. BUY A GOOD LOCK AND USE IT.

as far as bike type, the classic bikes for riding around the city are: (1) rigid mountain bikes like this one, because they're cheap, strongly built, and they're very fast if you replace the off-road tires with road tires. (2) road bikes from the 70s and 80s, which are similar: fast, cheap, and you can still get replacement parts if something breaks. it's pretty common to replace the drop handlebars with upright bars, which give you better visibility. (3) you could consider a single-speed, which is simple to maintain and easy to ride, but it'll be kind of a bitch climbing up the bridges.

those kinds of bikes will be perfectly fine for any ride under 10 miles. (that's basically the distance from chelsea, uptown to columbia, and back-- or the distance from prospect park to coney island.)

I use a Kryptonite Mini Evolution and find that it fits perfectly in the back pocket of a pair of jeans.

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch-5-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9C0/

I have the same lock, I paid just over a hundred(including shipping) for it new on Amazon, which was lower than what it cost in the store, which was around that price with tax.

Having gone through at least five different mirror styles, I highly recommend the eyeglass/helmet mounted Take a Look by Bike Peddler. I've had one mounted to my visor for nearly ten years now. Made in the USA!

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO?th=1&psc=1

http://www.reddit.com/r/ukbike/comments/1gje99/had_to_upgrade_my_helmet_mirror/camv10l

I use a "Take a Look" helmet mirror (well I put it on my shades), it's perfect.

No shaking around like my old one did, wider so I can see much more of what's going on behind me with ease. I can't ride comfortably without them, I hate not knowing what's developing behind me constantly.

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

lol my b. Here ya go LINK

If you're using tubs... or tubeless (can't remember which), I can't help you much from experience, but I can tell you Lezyne makes some beautiful and well-engineered products and you'll need a shock pump to seat the tubular or tubeless tires onto the rim, so I would feel confident recommending this Lezyne floor pump.

On the other hand, if you run clinchers, I've had good luck with this Topeak Joe Blow pump, rated for up to something like 160psi

Also, you likely already know, but just in case, here's /r/triathlon

Your 5 tubes could have almost bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503409742&sr=8-2&keywords=topeak+bike+pump). Just buy a proper pump already. I use this pump, it works great.

I've been very happy with my Joe Blow Sport II.

I like both the PDW Danger Zone and the PDW Aether Demon.

The Danger Zone runs on two AAA batteries (lasts seemingly forever) and has two LEDs. The Aether Demon has only one LED and runs on a rechargeable battery (plug it into USB).

I leave the Danger Zone on my bike. I put the Aether Demon on my helmet.

My absolutely fav tail light. Bright, with a wicked flasher mode that is great even in the day.

http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=lp_2367799011_1_11?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1413947269&sr=1-11

I use this. https://smile.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ Has been bulletproof for years, and I've only changed the battery once.

I recommend checking out /r/bikecommuting. Although it sounds like you have already been commuting by bike, so I apologize if you already know what I'm saying. I'm assuming because you are asking about what you wear for winter cycling that you do not regularly commute in winter/have a short commute.

You will need to get lights for commuting, especially as winter approaches (assuming that you are in the Northern hemisphere). I have the Cygolite Expillion 350 and the PDW Danger Zone. I once read that a blinking rear light is good for being noticed but a solid light is good for driver depth perception, so my helmet has a red light in back that I keep solid in the evening/night. I will eventually get a second real rear light.

As for clothing - what is your climate going to look like this winter? I was commuting in upstate New York and wore generic winter running tights, wool socks, UA coldgear shirt, a down vest, gloves, and a thin scarf that went around my neck and over my head under my helmet. When I wore thick wool mittens over my gloves, I was toasty in that down to 14 F. I never got goggles/glasses, but they would have been nice when it sleeted.

I don't have any cycling specific wear. I re-purpose what I already have or buy things that will work for multiple activities.

I wash my bike (or at least rinse it off) after any ride where salt from the road was kicked up. Last winter I had a toothbrush and would gently scrub my derailleurs to get off the ice and would use a damp rag to wipe it down. Again, I was biking in upstate New York. I have since moved south and don't yet know what this winter will mean for biking. I'm assuming a lot less ice and a lot less salt.

I'm riding this: http://i.imgur.com/Q1SewUi.jpg (Giant Defy 3)

I was lucky enough to get it on clearance, but it was in your price range and has all the mounts for a rack. Taking the rack and U-lock off makes it a pretty nice weekend warrior for longer rides, too.

I'm not using them, but I've heard nothing but good things about Ortliebs. If I ever have to buy new panniers, that's what I'll go with.

I use a Night Rider Lumina Micro 250 for my front light. It works fine, I just have to make sure I charge it. This is the tail light that I use. I can't confirm that either is the "best" but both work fine for my 7 mile morning commutes.

Other things that you might want to look into:

• A good U-lock, depending on what the situation is at work and whether or not you'll use the bike for anything else. Don't depend on a cheap cable lock, trust me.
  
• A cycle computer. I use a pretty cheap wired one, mostly so I can keep track of the time, but I like to try to keep my speed up, too.
  
• A seat bag for your spare tube, CO2, patches, tire levers, spoke wrench, and multi-tool. If you need extra storage space you can add one of these.
  
• Mini Pump (Yes, I keep CO2 and a pump on my bike)
  
• Water bottle cage and water bottle. (Depending on the length of your commute. I live in Phoenix, so this is pretty vital.)
  
• You might also want something waterproof for your phone. Where I live this isn't vital, but in some places it would be.
  
  
  I think that's all I use.

FWIW, I'm in the Pacific Northwest and commute all year.

I've been using this gear with great success and good relative comfort:

http://amzn.com/B00DQZ0S3K

https://www.showerspass.com/products/club-shoe-covers

http://www.columbia.com/mens-evapouration-jacket-RM2023.html

http://amzn.com/B00435IPFK

http://amzn.com/B008KUXRAW

Wear your helmet over your hood, and a pair of regular safety glasses. When it is really cold I add a balaclava and a fleece jacket. Fenders are a must to keep the dirt down, and I use this lube in the winter:

http://amzn.com/B000WYCD5O

I have an old pair of windproof campmor gloves that are no longer made. If you get cold just pedal harder. It almost never happens, I'm usually too hot.

Your bike depends on your distance, speed and budget. Make sure you get disc brakes, mandatory in my opinion for the higher speeds. This is my ride: http://i.imgur.com/bXXJkjS.jpg, just passed 1400 miles. It is BBS02 on a Kona Dew, I've since switched to Schwalbe Marathon tires. Cost about $1100 and has already paid for itself in gas and parking. 35mph for ~10 miles, 25 mph for 30-40 miles.

Oh, and fuck the snow and ice. Those are the days I drive or work from home.

I use this headlight and the PDW Danger Zone for the rear. link

This is the headlight's comparison photo from /u/ishouldnotbeonreddit's post link


Let us know what you go with!

I do all my riding at night but mostly paved trails. I did a ton of research before buying my lights.

Front:

MagicShine 872 - This is what I use. For Price per lumens you can't beat this thing. It's crazy bright. I have it on 50% most of the time sometimes lower. For distance it's about the same at 50% or 100%. 100% is just much brighter immediately in front of you.


I would actually recommend the MagicShine 808 though. It's a little cheaper and all my research showed the side by side comparisons the 808 actually throws light out a little father. It's just not as bright in the first 25 feet. Since I leave my 872 on 50% it wouldn't matter and I would get a little more distance.

http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-MJ-808U-Bicycle-Improved-1100-Lumen/dp/B009GSLUR4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954087&sr=8-3&keywords=magicshine+872

Both have an external battery pack and don't use a USB charger though. Which for some people is a problem. I don't mind strapping the battery to my top tube.

Edit to add: Neither of these has a flashing or pulse feature. They do have an adjustable brightness level though. 872 has last for roughly 2 hours for me at 100%. The power buttons illuminate to give you a rough estimate of battery level. After a 2 hour ride with it on 50% the entire time it will show that it has more then 50% left. They say it will last 3 hours at 100% but reviews I read said it last 2 1/2 at 100% then dropped its self down the 75% then 50 > so on until it completely died at 6 hours. I've not actually done that myself though.

Rear:

I use Light & Motion Vis 180 - This thing is ridiculously bright and I love it. Full 180 degrees of visibility from the amber lights. It's very expensive though for a taillight.

http://www.amazon.com/Light-Motion-Tail-Silver-Moon/dp/B00LH1W9AU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=light+and+motion+180

My research pointed to Cygolite Hotshot 2W USB being the best bang for your buck. I would have bought this but my LBS didn't carry it and I needed something that night for riding so i got the Light and Motion.

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409954733&sr=8-1&keywords=Cygolite+Hotshot+2W+USB


Hope this helps.

Whats I use:

Headlight, very powerful and better than others I've used

Taillight, multiple flash settings, very visible

Reflective Tape, I cut out some 1 cm wide strips and placed it on my frame and spokes, add visual safety

I've been good with a 450 lumen Cygolite on the front, and a Bontrager Flare R on the back.

But the Cygolite Hotshot Pro is a really good taillight too (guys in my group run them), so I'd recommend picking up a combo pack, like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/CYGOLITE-LIGHT-COMBO-METRO-HOTSHOT/dp/B07545T4Y9/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cygolite+combo&qid=1550174357&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Also, I always run two taillights for redundancy, I've had my tail light stop working before, and I didn't know, so consider picking up a lower cost hotshot as well, like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=cygolite+hotshot&qid=1550174600&s=gateway&sr=8-2

• [Crank Brothers multi tool] (http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Bicycle-19-Function-Silver/dp/B0012Q41HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418363910&sr=8-1&keywords=crank+brothers+multi+tool)
  
  
• [Topeak saddlebag] (http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Aero-Wedge-Buckle-Medium/dp/B000FIAU8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364745&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+saddle+bag)
  
  
• [Cygolite Metro 400 Headlight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-400-Rechargeable-Headlight/dp/B00LXTOT6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418364255&sr=8-1&keywords=cygolite+metro+400)
  
  
• [Cygolite Hotshot Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_text_y)
  
  
• [CatEye Wireless Bike Computer] (http://www.amazon.com/CatEye-Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-CC-VT220W/dp/B004RE783W/ref=sr_1_16?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1418364327&sr=1-16&keywords=cateye)
  
  
• [Finish Line Chain Lube] (http://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-4-Ounce-Squeeze/dp/B002IDZXRM/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting)
  
  
• [Genuine Innovations CO2 Inflator] (http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Innovations-G2628-Ultraflate-Inflator/dp/B002AGI1QW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420015344&sr=8-1&keywords=innovations+co2+inflator)
  
  If you're looking to up your riding game, everything listed above will save you from any trouble you have on the road. Cycling computer is always neat to have too!
  
  Cygolite Metro 400 and the Hotshot are brilliant. The lights definitely pack a strong punch. I'll tell you right now, unless the lighting in your town sucks ass or you go off road riding, the metro 400 is a great light and you don't really need to go much higher than that.
  

http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

This is hands down the best rear light out there. There are three or four modes of flashing types and you're able to increase or decrease the tempo of each.

The light is so bright that the red light is visible on the ground behind you.

It's also rechargeable.

They have a mini version too, and it's just as powerful.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DVA57Y?pc_redir=1406372694&robot_redir=1
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/ixon-iq-premium-led-139357?currency=5&delivery_country=191

Little bit more expensive. Same tail light. Better front light. You need a $3 adapter for the plug on the German headlight because it has European plugs.

Does that light work with the Cateye rack mount?

If not, I use a Cygolite Hotshot with the Cygolite rack mount which works really well. The Cygolite is great bang for your buck.

I just bought this Cygolite Metro 360 head light and this Cygolite Hotshot tail light a few days ago. They are well reviewed and seem blindingly bright when I look at them inside. Several different flash modes and are both USB rechargeable.

As for other products which can save your life, a cell phone and a credit/debit card will be useful if you're stranded somewhere. Wearing a Road ID will be helpful to emergency personnel if you're unable to communicate.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DVA57Y/

I have that one, it's really bright, has a bunch of different blinking patterns, and the battery seems to last quite a while.

I got this from my lbs for about 50 and I would recommend something similar. A u lock to go through the frame, front wheel and bike rack and a cable to go through the rear wheel. Maybe something like this from amazon. The keys are nice too cause I can just keep one on my keyring.

The shape of the frame seems like it could be a complication, not just for locking it up with a u-lock, but also with attaching a bracket to carry the lock while riding. For example, this lock comes with a mounting bracket that seems designed for road bikes.

Buy a U-lock for around $50 (Krypotnite or Abus)

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463060715&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite+lock+combination

http://www.amazon.com/Abus-Ultimate-Combopack-Cable-Diameter/dp/B009VUBH0C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1463060745&sr=8-5&keywords=u+lock+abus

The most importan thing when locking - make sure one wheel and the frame (not the fork) of the bike are inside the U-lock. Ideally, whatever you're locking to is also inside the U-lock. However, sometimes this is not possible. The cable is used to attach the other wheel to the u-lock as well. In the situation where your frame, wheel, and object you're locking to cannot fit inside the U-lock - use the cable to lock around the tree/pole, etc. and keep the u-lock on your bike/wheel.

I purchased this one from Amazon, I've only needed to use it a couple of times but it has some really solid reviews.

To answer your first question in terms of areas where bike theft happens more, I'd just say avoid areas that are hidden or away from every day pedestrian traffic. Don't lock it up in an alleyway that people never go down.

I have a bike that is about the same price as yours. I've been commuting all over Columbus for five years now and I've never had my bicycle stolen.

I would HIGHLY suggest that you get a good u-lock. That's all you really need. If you're concerned about someone running off with your wheels you can also get one of the u-locks that also have the cable for your wheels. Here is the U-Lock that I bought I've had that lock the entire time and I've had no issues with it.

Also, make sure you lock it to something sturdy. Preferably a good bike rack that you can get your bike lock through the frame of your bike. I prefer to lock it through the back wheel and the and the top bar that goes from the seat post to the back wheel.

Also final word of advice is definitely do not leave your bicycle out over night.

Additional stuff. If you have any stuff on your bicycle, like a light (you should probably get one if you plan on riding at night, and get a nice 550 lumen one), make sure you take them off when you've locked your bike up.

I'd opt for a combination of a D-lock and a cable lock, such as this Kryptonite set. The D-lock is passed through the frame, rear wheel and bike rack, and the cable is looped through the front wheel and connected to the D-lock.

You can get a good u lock and cable for about $40 in the US. If you are not in a high theft area like New York City I would go with this lock and cable. https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 Or this one. https://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Double-Team-PITBULL-U-Lock-Cable/dp/B005YPKBWI Lock the back wheel and frame with the u lock and the front wheel with the cable. The onguard locks are also a good deal. The higher security ones are relatively cheap compared to abus and kyrptonite, but they are heavy and probably overkill unless you are in a high theft area.

If you are in NY, SF, DC and you plan on locking it up unattended I would get two onguard brute locks, or two other locks that have to be cut twice. The locks are thick enough that an angle grinder or very large boltcutters are needed to break the lock. It would require a thief to use an angle grinder and cut at least 4 times to steal the bike. It is hard to get the right positioning to cut that many times and no one is going to that much trouble for a cheap hybrid bike when there are much easier and more valuable targets.

>Ask me how I know.

>/u/ I_AM_AN_FBI_AGENT

Must be an intern if they gave you the shitty job?

I use a Kryptonite U-lock for the frame/backwheel and a ~10mm cable that runs inside both wheels and the seat column. I'll look into buying one of those heavyass chains to add it to the u-lock. Thanks for the tips.

cc: /u/matt_the_hat

here you go dude and/or dudette:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html


I would stay away from that coil lock, as it can be snipped in about 10 seconds or less.

I use this combo for a $1300 bike:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This may also work for you at a lower price:
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498851267&sr=8-1&keywords=u+lock

1. Lights yes. Drivers here suck. Pedestrians here suck. Hell, most of the other cyclists on campus and around Berkeley suck too if I'm going to be honest... You want everyone to see you, and you also want to be able to see, especially the potholes and pedestrians.
   
   It's winter so lights are a super worthy investment, especially because they last a long time and you'll be able to use them for years before you run into battery/durability issues.
   
   You don't really need the lock posted in the comment you replied to. I mean I have one myself and all, but I don't carry it normally because the value of my campus commuter isn't worth the weight of the lock (that bitch is heavy.) I only use it if I happen to want to ride one of my nicer bikes around, or if I'm going to be parking my bike at the BART station or downtown for a whole day- that kind of thing.
   
   IMO the Evolution Series 2 U-lock plus the cable is going to be fine for most on campus usage as long as you're not leaving the bike unattended for a whole day, or overnight. Biggest thing when locking up is doing it properly. Make sure the u-lock gets the frame and your rear wheel both, and use your cable for the front.
   
   
2. It's a pretty meh choice. A popular bikesdirect road bike is the Windsor Wellington, but I wouldn't recommend it either. The money you save on the bike itself is not worth the frustration from riding a poorly assembled and adjusted bike. You'd pay $100 at any of the local shops to have them assemble and adjust it anyway, and riding an improperly adjusted bike is an un-fun PITA. Doing the assembling and adjusting yourself is "easy" but doing it right takes some tools you may not have, and some finesse that takes a while to learn. That being said, the cheapest road bike from one of the LBSs (Local Bike Shops) here will run you at least upper 600s IIRC, so take your pick.
   
   If you think you'll be riding regularly though, as transportation and recommendation, I highly recommend you go with an LBS option because people who know what they're talking about will guide you through your choices.

IIRC Target does not sell any good locks. Buy one online or at your LBS. I have a Kryptonite 2 and it has saved my bike at least a couple times. Maybe later I will post the picture of someones failed attempt to hacksaw through it.

With proper locking technique you shouldn't have to worry during a 30 minute errand, especially if you locked the bike in a place that is well traffic'd and well lit, though I never leave my bike outside overnight if I can help it.

i think im gonna follow ur suggestions, ty.

u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite
tyvm

also, i have a bike right now, i bought it for like $50 a few years back, but it seems too small. like, the frame is too small and the seat is too low down, so its really difficult for me to ride. the times ive ridden it to the gym it was the worst leg day of my life because i get so sore riding it, and i'm pretty sure it shouldn't be like that. i need a bigger frame and higher seat, no?

tyvmvmvmvm

I agree with /u/kidsafe on almost all counts. Abus is also a solid brand, I just have more personal experience with Kryptonite. [Here](http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1452236815&sr=1-1& keywords=kryptonite+bike+lock) is my recommendation, and what I personally use

Personally, I'd say stick with a reputable u-lock and pair it with a cable lock for the wheels. A good u-lock oughta require electric rotary tools to get through, and make a ton of noise and take some time. Remember with security locks, it's not a matter of can it be broken but how long it takes.

I like this set: Kryptonite Kryptolok Series 2 Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-inch x 9-inch) with 4-Foot Flex Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_sMdAwb63BQ9BD

A lot of people swear by Kryptonite locks. They have a lot of selections for as little as $25 on Amazon.

Website
https://www.kryptonitelock.com/en/locks-landing/product-details-bicycle.html

U-lock
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Keeper-Standard-Bicycle-Bracket/dp/B000BL1P3O/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1505834415&sr=8-6&keywords=kryptonite+bike+locks

U-lock with 4' cable
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-KryptoLok-Bicycle-Lock-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505834415&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+bike+locks

Here are some links:

http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/

http://www.streetfilms.org/hal-and-kerri-grade-your-bike-locking/

The sweethome recommends the Kryptonite Series 2 package deal which you can get for $32+S&H (also note students can get Amazon prime free for six months).

The second video is a guy from NYC rating people's locking of their bikes. Which is really worth watching, a lot of the time it is more that people don't lock their bikes properly than having a bad lock.

But as Sweethome says if your bike is less than $1K then just use the Kryptonite Series 2.

If it is >$1K then they reccomend the NYC Kryptonite Series. Which is $75 at amazon.

I ride fulltime and find that so long as it's a stable bar to lock to (shake it to make sure it's connected at the base on both ends), and you have a cable and u-lock (don't skimp, get a Kryptonite) then you should be in great shape in most parts of the city. The only times I've been nervous, I've been able to find a lock spot within eyeshot of the place I'm going to. I do not lock up my bike for more than about 3-4 hrs in one spot.

When in doubt, ask the business if there's better options for your bike. I once went to lock up outside of Cooper's Hall, and a business owner neighbor let me know Cooper's had bike parking inside because that area is especially prone people stealing things.

DO make sure your bike serial number and pictures are on your phone and with the registry in the horrible case that it does walk off!
Edit: commas, added advice

This method is probably the best all-round:
http://www.802bikeguy.com/2011/07/the-modified-sheldon-brown-bike-locking-strategy/

I don't live in a particularly high crime area so I don't carry my cable usually, just a long shackle U-lock since I also don't live in an area with particularly great bike racks.

For quasi-anonymity, would it be possible to not state where I go to school?

If so, I'm on my second year as a transfer student in animal science. I love animals and I love caring for and spending time with them, so this degree will allow me to be paid for doing what I love. Some possible career options would allow me to be able to work with animals and people, helping them to have a mutually beneficial relationship.

I walk every day to school because my bike lock rusted out and I don't trust that my lockless bike on campus would be there when I returned. I would enter for a lock for my bike so I can have either a few more minutes of study or sleep, depending on the day. Thank you for the contest. =)

It's a not very good ulock but I'd take the first one over the cable lock. This is the basic entry level lock I recommend. The problem with cable locks is small wire cutters (pliers sized) can nibble through them in a short time frame. Or bolt cutters can instantly cut them. I wouldn't bet that the ulock you posted above would stand up to small to medium bolt cutters either.

The kryptonite ulock I linked will stand up to most bolt cutters (I think I've seen a video of some one getting through one with a pair of 4 foot bolt cutters). Thats big enough to be obvious and uncommon in my area.

my hub dyno lights are integrated, so I'll skip past those

• pearl izumi thermal light glove - good enough for all but the three or four hottest months of the year
  
  
• $2 headband from home depot it even has a little hole for a ponytail!
  
  
• 1 or 2 ortlieb front rollers, depending on what's being carried
  
  
• kryptonite u-lock - I'm in a low-risk area, so this is enough protection for me.
  
  
• mirricycle incredibell duet - I don't use it often, but when I do it's such a fun sound

A bit cheaper online for sure, but usually when I need a new lock, I need it now.


I'm talking about the Evolution Mini 5 at minimum, $44 or so on Amazon (plus shipping since I'm in Canada and Canadian Prime doesn't have it)

To save a bit of weight, you can get one of the smaller U-locks like the Kryptonite Mini 5 and then lock it to the rear wheel, through the rear triangle.

Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.

This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)

____

Product 1: Kryptonite Evolution Mini-5 Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (3.25-Inch x 5.5-Inch) (B005YPK9C0)

Imgur pricing graph

||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|--:|:--|:--|:--|
|Cur|$49.99|$44.35|$40.00|
|Hi|$59.95|$59.95|$100.02|
|Lo|$35.87|$29.99|$29.00|
|Avg|$52.42|$56.57|$48.36|

_____

^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch-5-5-Inch/dp/B005YPK9C0/ref=sr_1_26?ie=UTF8&qid=1415952249&sr=8-26&keywords=ulock

$150 for two locks. A nice U-Lock and a nice cable lock presumably. She probably overpaid, but maybe something like this and this.

Everything is cuttable. An angle grinder can cut through 1 inch of cable in less than a minute.

2 locks does tend to discourage them especially if one of them is this.

I recommend a thick chain lock for the other lock.

A little pricey, but should last a very long time.

About 2 decades without a theft using this system myself.

Does she have a U lock? The nice and thick U locks can be somewhat expensive so I think it'd be a good gift.

Also a nice multitool is crucial for serious cyclists to fix stuff on the go and to just have an all in one tool for working on the bike at home.

Well, you can have something like this - http://www.amazon.com/Steel-U-Lock-Bike-Motorcycle-Lock/dp/B007Z4WE8U/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1420609090&sr=1-4 - which is technically a U-lock... or one like this.. http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_cy_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1KK8C2HG9ZJ4V9ANHZVK

This is a top lock and what I think is a very fair price: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-York-Standard-Flexframe-Bracket/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376401254&sr=8-2&keywords=kryptonite

If not that, try to find a tested and approved lock such as a Sold Secure Gold rated lock: http://www.soldsecure.com/why-do-we-test/

Lastly, consider the Sheldon Brown method or using 2 different types of lock (U-lock + chain. Nearly all cable locks, no matter how thick, are useless). The theory is different locks require different tools to break. However most thieves only carry tools for 1 type of lock and will move on.

Si tu prends ça tu devrais pouvoir résoudre le problème du vol (Pour un vélo normal, pas un truc à 2 000€) .

Thank you everyone, this was super helpful!

Went with this after seeing some of the prices on my way home from work:
http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-3-25-Inch-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407374232&sr=8-2&keywords=Kryptonite

yes the kryptonite locks come with a long cable to loop through your wheels for for quick releases. I use this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-7-FlexFrame-Kryptoflex/dp/B005YPK9VQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1468402481&sr=1-3&keywords=Kryptonite

If you register the lock too they will give you money towarda a new bike should the lock be broken and the bike stolen. Double check the terms etc but im sure thats correct. Ive had my lock for about 2 years now!

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ/

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Pitbull-U-Lock-4-Inch-9-06-Inch/dp/B005YPKBWI/

Both are good locks.

Fixed your link

I hope I didn't jump the gun, but you got your link syntax backward! Don't worry bro, I fixed it, have an upvote!

• this one
  
  
  
  ^Bot ^Comment ^- ^[ ^Stats ^& ^Feeds ^] ^- ^[ ^Charts ^] ^- ^[ ^Information ^for ^Moderators ^] ^- ^[ ^Live ^Image ^Feed ^]

awesome, thanks man.

I went ahead and got this http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005YPK9VQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

So now i have a reg ulock, mini ulock, and the cable. As well as the pinhead nuts in the saddle/front wheel/steering.

Hopefully my bike will now at least be super inconvenient to steal.

Something like this is usually recommended: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005YPK9VQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1453278074&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kryptonite+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41QbAJlgf7L&ref=plSrch

You won't need the cable though. Get at least sold secure silver.

I have a 'gold' cable (better) , it's super tough. Saw a video on YouTube of someone cutting it like butter. That's why no one recommends cables. It is good to have two locks though,thieves need a way to beat both.

You want as small a ulock as you can get away with. The larger ones are easier to beat (they put a small jack in and pop them open).

If you do a bit of research you should be able to find a decent one in your area for a decent price. Once you know what you want, shop around.

I have THIS on my bike. It's obnoxiously bright at its highest setting, and it'll do you well on your night rides on the greenway. I'd see reflective street signs hundreds of yards away light up from this thing. Forget about steal-proof accessories; stuff that you leave on your bike is going to get stolen. I always take my lights with me. It's a bit of a hassle having to install them when I return to my bike (takes less than a minute though), but it's the only way not to get them stolen!

I live in a neighborhood in central San Antonio too! I recently got this guy after my cheap academy set was not cutting it. It is amazing actually, slightly bulky as the battery is a second unit but its still easy to mount and I doubt you could find anything nearly as bright for the price.

$22. https://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/

Have you looked at the direct-from-china MagicShine clones? There are quite a few variants out there ranging from "500" to "2300" lumen for not a whole helluva lot of money.

I hear the amazon linked one works pretty well zip-tied to a helmet. Buying 2 (maybe one from a different seller) and mounting one with the wide angle lens on the bars would be a cost effective way to light up everything in front of you.

This one?

For really cold environments this set up can be nice because you can keep your battery warm under your coat. Living in MN It happens that the coldest part of the year is also the darkest and batteries die out as they get cold.

This and this.

I usually run x2 of these, cheap and very bright, with a wide angle diffuser on one.

> I've pulled all my reflectors off my bike, as they're ineffective pieces of crap.

The ones to the front and back are too small to be of much use, but spoke reflectors are the shit.

Talking about these: Link and Demo

Trinx KA2007 folding bike.

• I added some of this type of spoke reflector for a little more visibility since a lot of my riding is at night or evening.
  
  
• I got one of these bags for the rear rack, it's got the reflective stripes on the side and a strap to clip one of my rear lights onto.

https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

I bought these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DNG8DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_F-vxDb6D8EEXB

http://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Reflector-36-Scotchlite-Reflective/dp/B00DNG8DSY

In the process of kitting out (or identifying kit for when I have the money) for my new (first full sized) bike and have settled on Cat Eye Rapid X (50 lumens).

You can get more powerful ones ( Rapid X2 and X3) but I'm generally anti bright lights as they're often too dazzling or even hurt my eyes when on other biked - pet peeve). Anyway I ramble, they attach by rubber/stretchy plastic band and come with a larger one for seat tube and smaller one to attach to seat stays or rack or anywhere else you fancy inc. one would assume the ability to orient them outwards/side ways for side viability should you want to (though they've got v v wide angle glow anyway).

Reckon I'd get a few for rack down tubes or seat stays each side vertically and and one horizontally to attach to the rear hanging light plate on the end of the rack to maximise the [strikethrough]Akira Neo Tokyo 2019 motorbike look[/strikethrough] visability (and a couple of front ones on the forks to sit either side of a Busch and Muller Eyro mounted centrally on the fork above the front wheel).

Also these wheel reflectors are a cheap and cheerful fix that I'll do, good at catching car headlights as lower down on the bike where they're generally pointing:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DNG8DSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_6gZMDb3HDV559

https://youtu.be/_5xC7PI3dyI

Re: Cateye Rapid X, believe they were the first of their kind when they first came out quite a while back but the same/similar lights are sold by different brands. Cheap Chinese ebay jobs available too but not sure if the same or cheap lower quality copies, up to you if you want to risk.

Also going to get Tortec Mudguards that have a reflector strip which user reviews say is v good and helpful. Then some reflective rim tape to boot (and then potentially some 'diamond grade' reflective tape that's used on emergency vehicles to strategically place on points along the frame - yes I want my Neo Tokyo/Tron bicycle).

There's these, but they're a bit stupidly expensive IMHO.

https://road.cc/content/review/228444-flectr-zero-aero-wheel-reflectors

I just use these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Reflector-Bicycle-standard/dp/B00DNG8DSY/

These are roughly equivalent to a car headlight in brightness. Used to use them to go mountain biking at night.

I think it's this one. It isn't $20 though. They're great for the price.

Anyone looking to start - imports from China have way lowered the barrier for entry. If you can find a group online that goes, do that or bring a friend, you don't want to get stuck out there without a buddy.

There's a lot of garbage out there too, I've tried several of the imports and found the batteries sorely lacking or the connectors shitty. I can vouch for this one. For bonus points, get this wide angle lens and put it on your bars, plus a normal one on your helmet so you can see where you're looking. If you can only have one, try to find a way to mount it to your helmet.

I have like 4 of these. They're super bright and battery lasts a long time. You can find them on eBay every now and then for $20.

Edit: A year ago I switched to a USB version of the light above. I got mine on eBay for $12, but can be found [here](
http://www.lightinthebox.com/zhishunjia-waterproof-3-mode-1xcree-xm-l2-u2-high-power-bike-lamp-900lm-usb-5v-gray-red_p3984844.html?currency=USD&litb_from=paid_adwords_shopping&sku=429_6917) for around the same price. I use it with a USB power bank, like this. I just put the battery pack in my frame bag. I can charge my phone and light my path at the same time if I want. It's really a great setup!

My setup.


Light, get 2: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJZ015Y

Kit for helmet: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QOVA00

Wide angle lens: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WLCLQY

Put one on your helmet. Put the wide angle lens one on your bars, means when you turn it has less effect on what you can see.

I've had no problem with battery life, but my night rides do tend to be a bit shorter, in the 90 minute range. Use half strength during the climb, full strength on the down.

I'm a big fan of these for quality, durability, value, and long life.
https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-550-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTORC4/ref=pd_sim_468_5/147-5119010-3659138?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00LXTORC4&pd_rd_r=M1K45SX1A5CTXRGT9YY2&pd_rd_w=L4lhZ&pd_rd_wg=n9s3O&psc=1&refRID=M1K45SX1A5CTXRGT9YY2

By far, the best cheap light I’ve found is this one by inbike I got it in a lot of amazon return stuff and I didn’t get the mount with it, so I can’t speak for whatever comes with it. The light runs on 18650 cells which are the way to go imo. Pick up a couple more and wall charger and you’re good to go.

I have a version of this one on a couple bikes as well. Same light just non branded. Bright and rechargeable. One has been coated in mud several times and still works fine.

All lights you purchase will have mounts included with them, look for USB rechargeable lights as opposed to battery operated lights.

On the frame in the rear

Ultra Bright Bike Light Blitzu Cyborg 168T USB Rechargeable Bicycle Tail Light. Red High Intensity Rear LED Accessories Fits On Any Road Bikes, Helmet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TOF7radLPpoOj

Under the saddle.


LE Super Bright Bike Light, USB Rechargeable Rear Tail Light, Cycling Light, 4 LEDs, 5 Light Modes, Red, Cable Included, Fits on any Bicycles, Helmets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197X16BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_kdJj4Z6x6Tr61


There are much better lights available, I'm upgrading my front currently. So I don't have a link.
And apologies if the links don't work. Not that tech savvy.

Why lights? Safety. Night or day. Be seen, drivers will pay attention.

What kind of cycling? Mountain biking, road cycling, just commuting? I ride at night all the time, I usually ride to a bar a few times a month. My 10 yo son and I rode to the movies the other night.

Make sure you have a decent light setup. I use an urban 500

https://www.amazon.com/Light-Motion-Urban-500-Headlight/dp/B01F0FCAKW?th=1 for a head light and this rear blinker

https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Helmets-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?keywords=amazon+rear+bike+light&qid=1556798034&s=gateway&sr=8-25-spons&psc=1

along with a neon green jacket and two led wheel lights. I find that people actually see me more at night than during the day.

​

I have this setup for my kids https://www.amazon.com/Ascher-Rechargeable-Headlight-Resistant-Included/dp/B01EUQ7ZQG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_bs_lp_t_1/147-0384363-3958821?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=58XK20AREYT4CNVC9WYV

and it's actually really decent.

I use the Cyborg Blitzu ( https://www.amazon.com/Rechargeable-Intensity-Accessories-Helmets-Flashlight/dp/B015IEJ0GC ) with the mount wrapped around my rear Axiom Streamliner rack's flat bridge in the rear (makes sense when you stare at it), and the light oriented vertically. It's probably a bit floppy but it hasn't fallen off or rotated out of position after ~500 miles. No modification needed.

Cheap too, ~$15? Also has excellent side visibility, which is the primary reason I use it.

Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IEJ0GC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=digi1516-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B015IEJ0GC&linkId=f7fc1dcbed92d3ed05d81d708edeab4d

No, one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IEJ0GC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ive got a rear and head light by the blitzu company and they work great. Rechargeable, 3 different power settings, flashing and non flashing settings, and a decently long battery life. (6 hours)

Edit: headlight
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IFA03I/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1506555869&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bicycle+light+blitzu&dpPl=1&dpID=51gyEU3rBNL&ref=plSrch

Taillight
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015IEJ0GC/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506555869&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bicycle+light+blitzu&dpPl=1&dpID=51D0%2BGi4UaL&ref=plSrch

It's probably an Airzound.

Ya, i don't understand the "get off the road" mentality that people have. But if you want to have some fun with them (and also probably get your ass kicked in the process) bring one of these with you.

Get one of these next time.

1. Airzound. It mounts to your bars, a bottle holds the compressed air and goes in your wsterbottle cage. 115db horn. Can be purchased many places, but here is where I got it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_awdo_wfksDb98VW2V7
   
   
2. Yes, often the framerates, passing speeds, angle, water drops on the lense, etc can render the few frames of the plate being visible as unreadable. Letters can be harder to define after the fact. Usually in all the whole plate, but ibwas trying to read the trucks plate before the trailer passed. I was also gassed as I had just been sprinting. Note the speedometer... this is added afterwards using GPS data.
   Learn your phonetic alphabet as well. I'll typically call it out quick then phonetically "A, B, C; 1, 2, 3, 4... Alpha - Bravo - Charlie".
   
   
3. Yes, rear camera tells more of the story. How close was the car, how fast did they come up on you, how close were they, how long were they behind you?
   By mounting it rear facing off of your bars at an angle like mine is, it also shows perspective of close passes. It captures the rider (me), my bike, road position and the overtaking vehicles pisiton. Sometimes it can also capture the drivers face, but usually angle/glare dont yield good results on this.
   I like to have my 7 on my helmet so that if I look at someone, it looks where I do (like when I stopped to try to educate this gentleman.)
   
   
4. You didn't ask, but hey... I always try to control my temper and be respectful. My purpose is to attempt to educate the driver as to why I was riding like I was, and give some insight. Usually that fails, but ocassionslly I get through to someone. That makes it worth it.

This should solve your problem...

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Ugh. For as crappy as a lot of our cycling infrastructure is, I'm glad that bike lanes here in most U.S. cities are in the street. Cars don't randomly run into your lane or decide that the bike lane is the appropriate place to do qi gong exercises (WTF is wrong with you folks in Chinatown?!).

For dealing with people who are inappropriately in the bike lane, I have found this to be invaluable. Scares the hell out of people.

And an Airzound horn when a bell isn't loud enough. I started off with just an Airzound, but it scares the shit out of pedestrians and isn't really appropriate if you only want to announce your presence, so I bought this bell for $9 and save my horn for people with headphones, people blocking the path who don't react to the bell, and cars. The bell is very elegant, and most people seem to recognize two quick bell rings as a bicycle approaching. Yelling is still better than risking an accident by silently zooming by a pedestrian or cyclist who has no idea you're coming, but my rides are more pleasant with the bell.

> Same here LOL I was like, did they mean the bikers ringing the bell? That can’t be too loud can it?

https://www.amazon.ca/Delta-Cycle-AH1000-Airzound-Bike/dp/B000ACAMJC/

^^^^^bike ^^^^^airhorns ^^^^^actually ^^^^^exist, ^^^^^just ^^^^^sayin' ^^^^^;-)

> Buy a loud cycle horn.

Airzound!!!

Try an AirZound. They're refillable too.

Though they don't fit on all handlebars so that may be a factor.

Went a whole year of being car-free since the car was broken and didn't get around to getting it fixed. Got it fixed and now it's broken again. This time going car free until I can afford to buy a new one.

Must have equipment:
Fenders
Lights (front and rear), especially with winter and early dark coming in.
A trailer. I use a schwinn 2-kid trailer with the kid part pulled down off the cross-bar.
Rain Gear. Here in the Pacific Northwest, this can make or break your car-free experiment. It's much easier to get on the bike in a rainy day when you have it.
My Delta Airzound air horn. Nothing makes cars look faster than when you honk back!

Other than those, i switch panniers and backpacks depending on what I need at the time. I have foldable baskets, small bags, big bags, waterproof bags, trunk bags, handlebar bags, front rack, rear rack... You kind of end up collecting gear after a while of just being a bike commuter.

>zoom past you and cut you off taking a right

Yep. The infamous "right-hook".

>Get a loud horn

Air Zound, yo.

I'm just going to leave this here:

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

I've had some close calls. You can see in the stats that isn't particularly safe but I enjoy it and do my best. I got one of these for my bike and it helps to blast cabs and j walkers. much more effective than a bell, which I still use for passing etc

Surely this is a better option, given that it doesn't require batteries.

> 80db at 50cm. That's loud!!!

I don't think that the person writing that sentence has any idea how loudness is measured... because that's not loud. Usually dB is measured at 1m for a start, so that horn is only 74dB at 1m. A bit louder than a vacuum cleaner, but not necessarily as loud as normal traffic, if you believe this scale.

For comparison, this one is 115dB-

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC


That's loud!!! But the sounds are not as cheeky, I'll admit. :)

Keep fighting the good fight. It might be a bit dickish if the lane wasn't so clearly marked.

For other crusaders, How about an Airzound? I've got one, and it is shit your pants loud.

An Airzound Bike Horn

Can't believe no one mentioned the airzound. $30 bucks. Basically a metal container that you fill with air (using a bike pump) and you have a air horn attached to the other end. Its the size of a water bottle and comes with mounts so its easy to install on a bike.Saved my ass many times and I've had it for years. On the horn itself, there's a pressure modulator so you can adjust how loud you want it to be. It's much louder than a car horn so if you're using it around people I suggest lowering it a bit, but it's perfect for places like the Brooklyn Bridge where people get in the path and biking up 8th Ave.

Edit: it's actually on sale so I would jump on this offer if I didn't have one already.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ACAMJC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483767526&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=airzound&dpPl=1&dpID=4142OBsQHPL&ref=plSrch


I can post pics of my setup if anyone's interested.

It really comes down to comfort. I leave a Kryptonite Chain Lock at work so I don't have to lug a serious lock w/ me every day on my commute. For popping into the store on my way home, I carry a Palmy aluminum u-lock which is by no means safe, but it IS very light. Otherwise, I carry the Kryptonite mini u-lock

BUT...all this being said, if a thief wants a bike, they're going to get it. The only thing you can do is to deter them.

After reading all of the bike stealing threads, bike stolen videos etc. I purchased:
This
and this
and this

I think I'll be good.

i used a kryptonite evolution lock. it's small, so i keep a cable coiled around my seat post for when i can't find anything thin enough to lock my bike to.
i like it: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-U-Lock-x-5-5/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=sporting-goods&qid=1247979749&sr=8-10

I wouldn't get a brooks. They are pricey because they become super comfortable after some use, but the downside is that they are theft magnets. If you get one, lock your saddle with a cable, or take it in with you, but these things go missing on my campus all the time. I'd just ride the stock for a while, when you want to upgrade, go into your LBS and nab one from them.




As for locks, U-lock+Cable in conjunction will be best. If you pick one, do a u-lock. Kryptonite is well-recommended. They have a few models:

The New York is the big boy, nigh indestructible lock. But probably not necessary for a windsor the hour.

Here's what I use, but I sort of regret it. It feels cheaper (because it was cheaper) than other kryptonite locks I've used. The lock itself is fine, but I have trouble with my key after a few months of use (have to jiggle it around for a bit for it to disengage). If you're on a campus or in a smaller town, it'd be fine.

Just ordered this. My buddy has one and it's brilliant. Super light and small (smallness is actually a benefit as far as security). Can fit in your back pocket.

Also: http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html

Bike commuter and UNT grad student here. I don't hear that it's a problem on campus during school hours. You don't say whether or not it will be outside during the night or not.

If you have the money for a nice bike, you have thhe money for a good lock. I use this lock and recommend it heartily. Comes with three keys and is a little harder than others to break since it's smaller and harder to get the tools that thieves use around it. It comes with a handy little mount to for the frame. Like others have said, if you lock just the wheel, you're gonna have a bad time.

Do you have a mirror? You should get a mirror. It did wonders for my city riding anxiety. I would highly recommend: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/

Bike Peddler (Original) https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26

This one is fantastic, in my opinion: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/

I've got a backup just in case I lose the first one.

A lot of hand pumps are tough to get skinny tire pressures, but I've had really good luck with the Road Morph. The nice little hose lets you put the thing on the ground and pump against the ground like a little floor pump. 110psi no problem.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370837529&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+road+morph

I really like this pump I bought last year to mount on my frame. Good balance of compactness and utility, it has a pressure gauge, and the presta/schrader adapter stays in the pump in either configuration so I don't have to worry about losing extra parts.

The chain...maybe.

> Hexagon shaped, triple heat treated chain withstands 11 tons of cutting force.

That's a meaningless description without knowing the alloy and link diameter, but it looks fairly beefy in the picture.

The weak point is the small U-lock that it also uses. It's 1/2" (12-13mm), which is the same as regular Bike U-locks. At that point I'd rather have the one designed for bikes, is significantly lighter, and can be frame mounted easily.

The only potential upside I see is "security through obscurity". It may be different enough from other bike locks that thieves skip it because they don't know how to attack it quickly.

The absolute best thing you can do is just get renter's insurance. Mine is $10 a month and covers everything I own, including my bike.

You can also upgrade to the "New York" Strength Kryptonite lock, which is far stronger, at the cost of being massive and hard to carry. Just ignore the Kryptonite warranty, it's pretty useless. It costs quite a bit for a low level of coverage and requires sending back the broken lock which usually gets taken with the bike.

Kryptonite locks. The prices on Amazon are cheaper but $134 is the price you would pay in a bike shop.

Maybe call the local police station and describe your situation to them and see if they can help? Or find a local hardware store and buy the tools to get your bike back. OR, buy a higher end bike lock. After having my bike stolen I got a Kryptonite Fahgettaboudit (2 years ago) and use it everyday in all sorts of weather conditions, it hasn't given me any problems yet. I think carrying bolt cutters is a little overkill, but I haven't done much bike touring, so really don't know.

that is a little better than using a giant u-lock but i'd hate to ride all over town with a giant chain. ideally a smaller u lock for normal use, and then carry a chain for when you think you might have issues locking it up or leave that somewhere you will be locking it frequently. the onguard beast chain seems to be the go to and comes with a lock as well, and as far as i know the kryponite NYFU is still the best lock on the market though it is expensive.

honestly just get as good of a u-lock you can afford if you have reasonable access to bike racks, or get the chain setup if you are wrapping around posts or trees. anything is defeatable, your best bet is to make yours harder than someone else's lock and hope for the best.
http://forums.roadbikereview.com/commuting-touring-ride-reports/boltcutter-proof-locks-276407.html
http://www.lfgss.com/thread17938.html

You're welcome! They send you a bright blue non-removable sticker to put on your bike, identifying it as registered with the police. Could be an additional deterrent, who knows.

Locking: Sturdy U-Lock (like the New York Fahgettaboudit) through the frame & rack, sturdy cable lock (I have this one) through the wheels and secured to your U-lock. Locks are still only a deterrent, but that and locking in a highly visible location could be enough. At least, I've had luck with it. Knocks on wood

Cable locks keep honest people honest. Consider something like this or this.

Locally The Bike Shop has them for $119.99 (Bow Cycle also has them for $129.99)

Amazon.ca has them for $100.95 (I have Amazon Prime so 2 day shipping is free for me, I don't know what it would be normally)

I had a bike that was 8 years old and in perfect condition. After a bad biking accident, I had stored it away for several years. It held a lot of memories of times that I had spent with my father; we rode bikes together almost every day for years before my parents divorced.

I finally got it back out, thinking riding to and from campus would be a great way to ease back into cycling. I got a cable lock and parked it in a patrolled deck. I rode it 3 times to campus, and on the 3rd time, it was stolen. I was totally, completely heartbroken. The cops who were supposed to be patrolling the deck were all huddled up BSing with each other. One came to take a report from me. He scoffed at me when I told him I had a cable lock, not a U-lock and told me I'd never see my bike again.

It's a shitty lesson, and it still bums me out pretty fucking badly that someone stole something so special to me. I know it was my own fault for not securing my bike properly, but I didn't realize how rampant bike theft is, especially in the city.

So, I feel your pain. It sucks to have something stolen and I'm sorry that you had to experience this. I immediately went out and bought this lock and am looking into some other locks for my wheels and seat.

If your landlord agrees to you storing your bike inside, I'd recommend this for storage. It's a real space saver in an apartment.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock-Black/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481948659&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+new+york+u+lock

Can only be broke for the hacksaw in a very long time or an angle grinder. We could save it leaves never have angle grinders, but really only professionals do. And they are you really going after cheap bikes.

Man that sucks.

I use this heavy ass lock. A hacksaw can still cut through it, but it takes more time.

I also use this cable to secure my quick-release front wheel.

There's no sure way to secure your bike, all you can do is use good locking stratagy. Lock it to something solid in a well lit place where people are more likely to notice a theif with a saw or bolt cutters.

I have two bikes, one I bought from Century Cycles, and another I got off craigslist for super cheap. The one from craigslist is my favorite, and there were a ton more on there that I loved. The one I got on craigslist goes for around $700 brand new, but I got it from the guy for I think around $280ish.

I also live in an apartment, and I bought one of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UUEF7E/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 holds both bikes just fine, and they are both large sizes (for someone around my height - 6' 2")

EDIT: also get yourself a nice bike lock: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_4?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1374593601&sr=1-4&keywords=bike+lock

May I suggest: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/

Yeah, even better together. Though I see a slightly different combo used by the truly maniacal riders:

http://www.mec.ca/product/4013-597/samui-air-zound-cycling-horn/

and

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/

That's why I have one of these guys.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000OZ9VLU/

Not all uLocks are created equal. You should definitely make sure to be using one that is highly rated.

For exmaple, the New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock

This morning my Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U-Lock that secures my motorcycle decided to not unlock. The key enters the lock cylinder smoothly, and turns very lightly (too lightly?).

Pics of the setup

YT video of attempt to unlock

Any ideas? This is the heaviest U-lock I could find (18 mm hardened shackle). I'm at a loss for how to defeat it short of an angle grinder and I fear it'll just eat grinding wheels.

I've emailed Kryptonite after reading their support site but don't expect a response. It appears that this is a fairly common occurrence after Googling around.

Anyone stolen their own bike before and have ideas of how to liberate mine?

I have the twofish flashlight holder, cheap but effective flashlight mount.

I use this for my scooter and motorcycle. Bought it when I bought the scooter.

I had my GSXR600 stolen a few years ago, luckily I put GPS on it and I was able to recover it. I left it unlocked at my old apartment complex (used to chain it to a post with a huge Kryptonite MC chain/lock) for less than 6 hours, ONE TIME, and it was gone.

Besides using a disc brake lock, I also bought one of these:

D-yun Fake CAR Motor Alarm No Wiring Only Led Flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PBQN9OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uSRzDb46HMNFN

It’s just a flashing LED, and I velcro’d the battery box to the frame underneath a fairing, so I can still switch it on and off easily, and change out the batteries. Then, I put the LED kind of near the triple clamp so that you can see it blinking if you were to sit on the bike, or look near the gauges. I use Lithium batteries and the thing lasts for 4 months or so, sometimes I even forget to turn the LED off for weeks, and it still doesn’t die. I would say this is absolutely worth the $10 on amazon.

Most bike thefts are just crimes of opportunity, and if someone sees a little light blinking down near your gauges, the best you can hope for is that they move on to someone else’s bike.

I recommend a disk brake lock, but with Groms, the things are so light that it’s not really hard to just pick it up and put it in the back of a truck and drive off. So don’t rely solely on the disk lock. Locking it to a post with a serious chain is much better than just a disk brake lock, but then you have to bring a chain with you in your backpack. I used to use this one at my apartment complex, but there's no way you could carry it around in a backpack, the thing weighs like 20 pounds. (Also, you can see in the reviews plenty of people still cut through these. A battery-powered angle grinder will pretty much get you through most locks/chains. Which is why the goal is just to make your bike harder to steal than all the other bikes around it.)

The thing with bikes is, if someone wants it bad enough, they will take it. Whether that means using a cutoff wheel to cut your chain in 15 seconds, or picking it up and putting it in the bed of their truck, etc. The best thing you can do is make your bike harder to steal, so they are less inclined to steal it.

If you want full protection, I highly recommend buying a GPS unit, I have two SpotTrace units that I bought on Amazon, you pay monthly but there is a promo code rn for 50% off of an annual subscription, so I think I got a whole year of service for $100. Their app works pretty well too, and if you use Energizer Lithium batteries, they last for several months. The ONLY reason I was able to recover my GSXR was because it had GPS. If it weren’t for that, I’d have never seen it again. There are other GPS units on Amazon too, SpyTech (I think?) makes one that uses 4G data, so if you live somewhere with good cell coverage, that's a good choice too. I think SpotTrace uses satellite data, so it's good for Boats, hot air balloons, etc (things that travel far outside of cell coverage) but it has also always worked well for me on my cars and bikes.

EDIT: The only reason I don’t like disk brakes with alarms is that some of them are so sensitive that they start going off every time the wind blows. You don’t wanna be the guy in your neighborhood whose alarm is going off every 15 minutes while you’re not home. Also, I’ve seen people pretty much “silence” those alarms with chewing gum.

EDIT 2: Also, know that the handlebar lock (the one you engage with your key) is a joke. Most bikes handlebars can be unlocked by sitting on the seat, leaning back, and kicking the bars using your legs and leverage. Sure, it will break the lock mechanism, but the thief doesn't care.

Same here in VA:

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-999492-Black-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501213914&sr=8-4&keywords=Kryptonite+New+York

I use these on my scooters and my motorcycle.

This very cut resistant chain: Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tzUOub1QFAHSC

Paired with this movement alarm: XENA XX15-SS Stainless Steel Disc Alarm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067MFQ1S/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_2zUOub1Z4MFQD

And yea.

You'll pay in weight and cost, but this is probably about as secure as you'll get.

This would do the trick

A loud horn has saved my butt a few times when drivers aren't watching. http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

I recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

Maybe a horn would meet your needs. Schwinn Bugle Horn

Or if you really want to annoy people, an air horn.

It's an AirZound. The wire is a tube that connects to the horn mounted on the hoods.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

>How do you mount an airhorn?

The one I have was made for bikes. You can recharge it it using your tire pump.

And one thing I forgot, get fenders, even if it's a racing bike, because it's probably urine.

Oh, and in case you didn't know, google maps will show you all the bike lanes and bike-friendly streets (example), you can even get directions for bikes.

Something like this probably

Maybe a couple blasts on this whilst approaching would solve your problematic encounters. I haven't used one personally but I know a guy who has. Let me know how it works in case you go with it. They are relatively cheap, loud and durable apparently.

Forget bells, these horns are much more effective, motorists never hear bells from inside their cars.. As for pedestrians shouting is usually pretty effective.

Here is my setup

2010 Crosscheck with 2011 front fork (for the eyelets)

2x Panaracer T-Serv Protex 700 x 28 http://bicycling.about.com/od/bikemaintenance/ss/tire_photos_3.htm

Brooks Flyer http://www.brooksengland.com/en/Shop_ProductPage.aspx?cat=saddles+-+touring+%26+trekking&prod=Flyer

Cateye cadence computer http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/407

Cascadia fenders http://ecom1.planetbike.com/7056.html

Air horn http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC

Bell http://www.rei.com/product/801939 (returned several other bells that didn't fit)

If you are going to ride at night please get lights. I personally use this as my front light http://www.bikelights.com/stella200.html
I can't find a reference online to the taillight I have but those little blinkies just don't really do the trick for me.

I've been thinking about getting this computer http://www.cateye.com/en/product_detail/600

Another idea is an air horn:

Delta Cycle AH1000 Airzound Bike Horn https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JLLyzb4XPQ729.

It gets drivers to pay attention right away.

I'm not sure how often this gets recommended on here, but I had an Air Zound on my bicycle for a while. I didn't have to use it very often but when I did it really worked. Just be sure to drain the tank before dropping it off at the bike mechanic ;)

Getting a good loud horn also helps.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC/

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Airzound-Bike-Horn/dp/B000ACAMJC

This is a must have

here you go

You should look at these two:https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC?th=1&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/TOPTREK-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Anti-dust-Certified/dp/B078M38JP2/ref=pd_cp_468_1/135-8609110-7456208?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B078M38JP2&pd_rd_r=d1565862-5926-4102-9d6c-44ac34443b5c&pd_rd_w=dflKe&pd_rd_wg=6ou77&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=4K30CE9K1HRA7C4Z8EK6&psc=1&refRID=4K30CE9K1HRA7C4Z8EK6#customerReviews

Anybody have any experience with something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ACAMJC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jVKgybZXSM160
Between cars turning in front of me and people on headphones blocking paths the spurcycle bell (which I love) is just not loud enough to really get anyone's attention. I guess I could always get a regular air horn and bolt-on cup holder but I like that Airzound is refillable. Thoughts?

beep beep

https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Hooter-Rechargeable/dp/B000ACAMJC

I expected that link to be this

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Airzound-Bike-colors/dp/B000ACAMJC

They already make them

I'm having a hard time deciding between the Evolution Mini and the New York Fahgettaboutit Mini (need to carry the lock in my backpack on my way to classes)...

Thoughts?

/r/bicycling and /r/whichbike should be able to help.

Don't buy a department store bike unless you want it to fall apart in 3 weeks.

Get a good bike lock for your next bike. Cable locks can all be cut with bolt cutters in 5 seconds. You need a U-lock; something like this at minimum, this is better, and I have this which is one of the best locks available. Learn how to use your bike lock properly.

Agree with this. I'd recommend two U-locks, Kryptonite, at least Evolution line but preferably one of them NY Fahgettaboutit. That'll cost you over $100 right there.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1372566802&sr=8-9&keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372566802&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-NEW-YORK-FAHGETTABOUDIT-FahgettaBoudit/dp/B00629P4M2/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1372566802&sr=8-8&keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit

I like my Kryptonite Mini with a cable to lock up the front wheel. Also, once I got everything dialed in and I knew I wouldnt be making anymore adjustments, I superglued a bb into all the hex key heads so people couldnt steal my saddle and other bits. Its a bit of a pain to dig the glue out to repair stuff but at least I know my bike and bits will be waiting for me when I return.

that sucks :(

I recommend two Evolution Mini 5's ( http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Mini-Bike-U-Lock/dp/B000AMPRG0 ) and these: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Lockblocks-U-Lock-Mount/dp/B001P9EWKE

I second Sheldon Brown's locking strategy. I have a Kryptonite Evolution Mini which I got from a company through Amazon (cheaper than in stores). U-locks are most commonly defeated with a jack (like a car jack) but this is small enough that there won't be left over space to fit a jack in.

I use the Sheldon Brown method as described in another comment. This is perfect for parking meters and street signs in an urban area.

Also, don't buy a super expensive bike = less to worry about. And, don't park it in the same place for a long while (friend's bike got stolen because he left it on campus for 3 days) or same place every day on the street (e.g. if you commute) as the experienced thieves will look for targets.

P.S. What city are you in?

Do you think this lock will be big enough to lock like that?

I use one of these guys on my glasses. Had a lot of isues with helmet-mounted ones not staying stuck, and wound up super-gluing the last one to my previous helmet so needed a different option when I bought a new one.

Some people think they're dorky, but 'eh. I like it, and IMO its safer than turning my head 180 degrees to look behind me.

Not to mention you end up momentarily taking your eyes off where you're heading in the time it takes to turn and turn back. It's remarkable how much "nervous energy" is saved from not having to check back as much as I used to. Of course, I still do shoulder checks before changing lines but it's very useful for situational awareness (just think of the number of times you've approached other cyclists and pedestrians like a ninja).

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/mirrors.html

http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/cyclingmirrors.htm

http://bicycletouringpro.com/blog/selecting-a-mirror-for-your-bicycle-tour/

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26

Just a few links I went through before ultimately deciding on the "Take A Look" (compact) after comparing the reviews to see what would suit me (I ended up getting mine from ebay for what it's worth).

The 3rd link has one that attaches on your sunglasses lens, which I think is pretty neat (and not dorky) - but unfortunately, I don't wear sunglasses. I've also heard of ones that fit on the end of drop bars rather discretely. I wonder why the Tour de France pros don't make use of it in a poker-face sense - perhaps UCI has it banned??

Having a mirror allows me to "take the lane" so much more easily particularly when I know there isn't a car gaining up on me before I hear it through the rush of wind in my ears. Also handy for using up the whole narrow bike path without getting in anyone's way for greater visibility around bends, etc. And I haven't even mentioned silly commuter racing yet. ;)

I use a glasses mounting mirror

There are a few types of mirrors. If you wear glasses I highly recommend https://www.amazon.ca/Peddler-Take-Look-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1459400966&sr=8-10&keywords=bicycle+mirror. I think it also works on a helmet visor, but I've only ever worn it on my thick-framed glasses.

Amazon link

I see you have a bar end mirror. I found mine to be next to useless due to vibration and having to look down at just the right angle. I switched to an eyeglass mounted mirror (this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521389679&sr=8-3&keywords=bike%2Bpeddler&th=1&psc=1) and feel a whole lot better about my situational awareness. A lot of people pooh-pooh mirrors, but I will not go out without mine anymore. A quick glance to the left lets me know what's happening behind me. Can I relax? Are cars moving over appropriately? Should I prepare to slow down and go in the ditch (I'll take that over a sideswipe any day).

I have this mirror, it can be worn on glasses or a helmet.

I rode for a couple months before I started looking for mirrors. I didn't want a handle mirror because of it being stationary, but wasn't sure if something on my helmet would be annoying. That first ride I got adjusted to it - Ha! - I've actually glanced up to the left (where mirror would be) when I've heard something in the office, so I've definitely got used to it.

I will say that even with the mirror, there are times when turning and looking is the BEST option. Don't rely on your ears and mirrors have blind spots too. That's the advice I was given when I started commuting.

As a cyclist myself:
http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Original/dp/B000C17M26/ref=sr_1_2?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1369934527&sr=1-2

I was terrified too OP, I actually made a post myself not to long ago. I'm really happy I went through with it, the fear never goes away but it does get better. So far I've not had any accidents nor gotten hit. Like everyone says, make sure you're visible and you are predictable. Know the hand turn signals, get a reflective yellow vest and wear it every time you ride, same with lights. Consider a review mirror that attaches to your helmet or glasses. I was skeptical at first, but it is really helpful and does help a bit with anxiety. Make sure to still look over your shoulder though.

It might be good to start out small too, ride some bike paths if you have any near you (and if you can take them to where you need to go, do so. I find them better myself, I'm lucky that most of my commute to school is on a bike path. Wish my work commute was the same way).

Good luck and have fun! It's been a lifechanger for me, I'm feeling better, getting fitter, and I think I might be loosing weight even. And it's a lot of fun.

I've been using this one for quite a few years, and I love it! Really awesome small solution with great replacement parts for the whole unit. It's another pump that a lot of people swear by (including myself, but I am fallible like the rest)
http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395611696&sr=8-1&keywords=topeak+road+morph

I carry this bad boy around and use it exclusively as my bike pump. It's been a great investment. http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=pd_sim_sg_8

Just keep in mind, if you get a small pump to carry with you (so you can pump up your extra tube if you get a flat) make sure it has a flexible cord so that you don't break the stem on your tube. This one is good.

Sounds like a bad pump. I've never had a foot pump that worked well. Schwinn stuff ain't the greatest either I have found. My favorite floor pumps are Specialized, and my favorite pump to carry on the bike is the Roadmorph.

A good U-lock is kind of the gold standard for security. Chain locks and cable locks have to be super hefty for me to trust them. Also, learn to lock it properly. Wheels can also be stolen. Getting skewers that are not quick-release isn't foolproof but it does add some security.

You likely won't need the socket wrench combo, unless your wheels are bolted on with hex nuts. Otherwise, a patch kit and a bike multitool will cover 95% of your on-the-road needs, plus a pump. It's not the smallest option but I'm a big fan of the topeak road morph. I also carry tire levers and a normal (non-combo set) 5mm allen wrench, since it's the size I use most.

One of the tricks to winter riding is to ride through the shoulder season so you can gradually work your way down into lower temperatures and figure out your layering. Much easier than going from summer riding to commuting at 5 below zero.

Sure, on Amazon the budget options are https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ and https://www.amazon.com/Panaracer-RiBMo-700-Folding-Tire/dp/B01GQWHIIW/?th=1&psc=1 ($100 total), but if you have more money to spend the other parts I mentioned are worth it.

Anyone have any good recommendations on pumps with built in pressure guages? I'm currently looking at the following: http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2WU21EIVSXT6V&colid=17NALENO65NI8

Would love any input.

I use this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=pd_sbs_sg_5

Had it for three years and it will works great.

When you say "Trails", do you mean singletrack loose dirt bike paths, or more along the lines of fire roads, hard packed dirt with a bit of gravel?

If the latter, I think your "city tires" will probably do just fine. Even if they're full slicks (which I suspect they aren't), simply letting some air out of the tires will provide the control you need.

On the tire's sidewall you'll find a max PSI rating. For the road keep it near it's maximum for rolling efficiency. Probably anywhere from 60 to 85 depending on the tire they put on. Lower it to 45-50 for dirt. You'll be surprised at how well the bike handles.

But ChimpStyles, you ask, What if I want to ride 5 miles on the road to the trailhead and back? Won't that suck with the tires deflated? Get yourself a portable pump replies the ever stylish ChimpStyles. You'll want one as part of your toolkit if you get a flat. I like the Topeak Road Morph G. Ask your local bike shop for help if you don't know how to change a flat, I'm sure they'll help.
Thanks ChimpStyles, you're the best! cries monkeyfunky.

And they all lived happily ever after.

If you are going to be riding some more serious / technical / whateveryouwanttocallit trails, then some knobby, dirt-specific tires would be of benefit. In that case, if you can afford a second wheelset I would do that. Tell the shop you what you want 'em for and they'll help you pick out a good set. That will be way cheaper than buying a different bike. You can get a good wheelset with tires for ~300-400 vs. 600-tothemoon for a decent mountain bike.

Have fun on the bike.

Well, I haven't used it but this one has four stars on Amazon.

It depends how far you're willing to go. I have a beater bike I ride to run errands that I've designed to be unappealing to thieves.

-Fixed gear (high gearing)

-Frame wrapped in Skittles duct tape

-Pink handlebars

-Rainbow colored chain

-Rips in saddle

-Kyptonite Fuhgettaboutit New York U-Lock

All the components are as cheap as possible. 99% of the time I lock it next to a nicer bike that has a crappier lock.

This is the lock that I have and it's considered the most robust. It's quite heavy though.

Also, why is this lock so cheap?

> I probably won't buy a bike until I have the spare cash to get a nice one

Bike theft (and parts stripping) is a huge problem. "nice" bikes are at greater risk too.

As a bare minimum figure on a solid thick "U-lock" about $100 and a full set of antitheft skewers/seatpost/headset bolts for about $80.

If weight is not an issue, you should get the Kryptonite New York Lock. I have it and have never had an issue with it. It's pretty much as secure as you'll get with a bike lock, without resorting to incredibly huge, heavy, unwieldy solutions. I live in Philly too, which has a ton of bike theft.

This looks to be even thicker and more secure, but I can't tell from the picture how large it actually is.

For the most security, the lock should be small, but big enough to put through the frame and back wheel, while still having room to accommodate the front wheel (which you should take off and lock with the back wheel and frame, provided it's a quick-release wheel- if it's not a quick release, then get one of the cables or an extra, tiny u-lock to lock the front wheel to the frame).

Take some time to look up the most secure ways to lock a bike. It doesn't matter how long you've been riding for- if you're unfamiliar with how to securely lock up a bike, having a better lock won't mean much. How you lock it up, where you lock it up, and what you lock it to are all important considerations.

And just know that there's no perfect solution. If somebody comes along with an angle-grinder, your bike is getting stolen no matter how many locks you have on it. Exercise good judgement in how long you keep it locked up in one place (as in, don't just leave it out overnight in a high-theft area if you can avoid it). And even having a great lock won't prevent somebody from taking your seat, handlebars, headlight, reflectors, fender/mud guard, water bottle, or anything else that might be on your bike but not chained down.

I use the Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit through my front wheel and frame, then loop this cable into itself through my saddle and back wheel and lock the end up in the U-Lock.

~$70 for a bigger piece of mind.

I was considering this one like you mentioned, but the bike has front and rear quick wheel connects. I want to prevent someone from stealing the rear wheel+hub motor for example without needing 2 locks (like you have).

I've heard this one in particular is pretty fantastic.

This one http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1309913318&sr=1-1

I didnt know exactly how they spelled it, I was writing the comment from my phone at the time.

The Fahgettaboudit U-Lock is pretty damn good. You can't use a scissor jack because it's too small and it would take forever to saw it off. It can be removed, but not without considerable effort and time.

Definitely get some sort of U-lock and preferably don't have quick release skewers on your wheels. Personally I use this lock, but you don't have to spend that much. One thing to note about U-locks is that smaller is better because it makes it harder to use leverage to pop the thing open.

When my bikes have been stolen the U-lock was cut with good bolt cutters. I have had them stolen from the university in the middle of the day even (granted in summer when there's less traffic). But they came and stole my and everyone elses bikes, there was a line of chains and locks on the ground.

Either you get a bike only worth 100$ and get a 25$ lock and accept it will get stolen at some point. Or if you have a 500$ bike you need to get something like:

https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU


Honestly my last bike that was stolen, the back tire was dented, the brakes were shot, and honestly the lock I had was worth more than the bike was when it got taken.

Just get the New York fahgettaboutit lock (should work for Boston!). They tested it by locking a bike up for 30 days and nights in one of the worst parts of New York City...the bike was eventually stripped all the way down but thieves were unable to cut through the lock and steal the frame. So tell thieves, "forget about it" (fahgettaboutit) with this lock, http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU

Just remember that the best lock is one that looks better than the one next to it - it's a deterrent first and foremost (though the fuhgeddaboudit lock has a good track record).
And of course, if you can, try to keep your bike indoors or in a lockup if you're not on it!

If you know of any cycling clubs (or are already a member) you'll be able to get insurance cheaper through them usually. Ask your LBS - they'll know the ins and outs.

Pob lwc!

Not the cheap ones. This would be my go to. The only way through is with an angle grinder, if you're using that to get a bike I'm sure it'll raise some questions with any passersby.

It depends on the u-lock. This one would be trouble for bolt cutters:

https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock-Black/dp/B000OZ9VLU

That said, no lock will stop an angle grinder ☹

Here's a great article:

http://thesweethome.com/reviews/best-bike-lock/

Try twisting my New York Fahgettaboudit mini-U you'll destroy the bike in the attempt.

I'm going to assume Philadelphia is a lot like NYC ( where I live) when it comes to bike theft, so I will give you the same advice I give people that move here. Get a Kryptonite u lock. This one is the absolute cheapest that you can go with, but you'd be mush safer going with this. Lock thought the front wheel and frame. I would suggest getting at least a cable lock for the back wheel. Anything quick release will be stolen unless locked down. Best to replace anything that is quick release. No locking method is 100%. Whatever lock you have, there is a tool that can break it. The only thing you can do is not make it worth the effort. So don't go locking up a super nice bike. Lock it whenever you're out of arms length. If someone jumps on it and goes, you'll never catch it.

Or New York Fahgettaboudit

all that was very helpful, thank you. And that's sad that people are even stealing a wheel. Wouldn't have expected that so thanks for the heads up as well. Is this lock over kill?

Have similar e-bike. Only lock that will hold it:
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Heavy-Bicycle/dp/B000OZ9VLU/

High price:

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU

Lower price:

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-Brute-Steel-U-Lock-Mini/dp/B002SR3JMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1343875756&sr=1-1&keywords=onguard+brute+mini

The Kryptonite is very possibly #1-2 highest rated U-lock, the other highest rated would more than likely be even more expensive in the US so I wouldn't bother posting it.

The OnGuard is similar to the krytonite but not quite as hardcore.

Same. Most days I lock up with a Kryptonite Evo Mini. If I need more security, I use a Kryptonite Fahgettaboutit Mini.

Spend money on a real lock, no cheapo $30 MEC shit. I use a Kryptonite U-Lock and a thick chain. Nobody is getting through this without some serious hardware. It's fucking heavy, but it's worth it.

Buy a nice quality U-lock, the price of the u-lock depends on the area you live.

In NYC where bike theft is very high, you need need need this lock Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit 18mm U-Lock

Here are some good videos about how to lock up your bikes:

Hal Ruzal Grades Your Bike Locking (1 of 3)

Hal Ruzal Grades Your Bike Locking (2 of 3)

Hal Ruzal Grades Your Bike Locking (3 of 3)

Hal Grades Your Bike Locking 2014 (Part IV)

Edit: added additional videos.

Buy one of these, http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=toys-and-games&qid=1259975922&sr=8-8

Go to a pro engraver and have them engrave your name and number underneath the frame.

Get some spraypaint and make it look crazy and unique.

Don't park your bike outside and overnight anywhere.

Don't be stupid.

The insurance can kind of be a scam if you read the details of it, but if you get a lock like:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU

It's very unlikely someone would cut it. It would likely take 5-6 minutes with an angle grinder....

Get the Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit U Lock.
It's pricey but reliable.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Black-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock/dp/B000OZ9VLU

or Cycle Inn in Tallaght sell them.

I feel for you. I'm sorry your bike got stolen. It's likely to not be returned. By some chance it is it will probably not be a condition you want it.

next time get this bike lock: https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-997986-Fahgettaboudit-U-Lock-Black/dp/B000OZ9VLU%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAJEZV5MZO7MGYMFKA%26tag%3Dbikesmrts-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB000OZ9VLU and put it through the frame, front or back wheel and of course whatever you are locking it to. Worse case you might lose a seat if you don't take that with you and your other tire but at that point people would just move on. It being a high school though I would expect the seat to be slashed because kids are mean people.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Fahgettaboutit-Bicycle-U-Lock-6-Inch/dp/B000OZ9VLU/

Less practical:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Chain-Lock/dp/B000LPEXBQ/

He will never see his bike again. Pays to have renters insurance and register his bike at his local precent.

How about you do him a favor and buy him a real lock to prevent this from happening in the future.

FYI you can pick those Ulocks with a pen....may I recommend this one if you really want to keep your bike

Edit: Some of those old U-locks

Damn. What maintenance crew has something laying around that cuts through hardened steel? I haven't commuted in a week or two (been sick :( ), I'll check mine after work and make sure it is still there.

edit: also good advice since he's going to be leaving it on campus. i'm sure they deal with abandoned bikes etc quite a bit and may have cutters. It really sucks carrying a heavy u-lock (mine is 5 lbs)

I have that exact bike. It's a great entry level road bike! Done around 2,500km on it and it's still going strong. I've used it as a commuter with some security quick release skewers (so your wheels don't get stolen easily) and a Kryptonite New York Fahgettaboudit Mini (possibly the strongest U-lock you can buy, other Kryptonite locks are worth a look too though, for less money).

I have this rack for it. As long you're physically able to climb the hill then the bike will. ;-)

Get two Ulocks and Bike thieves will avoid your bike most 9/10 times unless they are really desperate. I'd recommend this Kryptonite: link.

I'm looking into getting this lock. I've read that I should get those mini u-locks instead because there's less leverage a thief can use on it, but I also heard that they're sometimes too small to lock up onto things, so what do you think? I'l also probably get a dual cable lock from kryptonite also or maybe their new york chain.

The current consensus over on /r/bicycling is a Nebo Redline + the Twofish mount. Thinking about hooking up that option myself because I keep having cycling specific lights crap out on me.

edit none of this shit is really BIFL, but the Nebo option is cheap enough that you won't get too upset if you somehow break it

TwoFish Lockblocks

I don't wear a helmet so I normally use the headstrap for cycling, but I also made good experiences with this double-strap-thingy on my old bike. I used it for a normal flashlight but I see no reason why it shouldn't work turned 90° with the Wizard Pro. Hope that helps.

I like the TwoFish LockBlocks for single cell lights.

I'm a fan of the TwoFish flashlight holder plus no-name but well reviewed flashlights:

https://www.amazon.com/TwoFish-9-Lockblocks-Flashlight-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E

Yea. This is what I recommend also. I have a $10 mini flashlight with a rechargeable enloop batteries. I also use the the 2fish velcro gasket w/o problemos. So much cheaper and brighter than specific "bike lights"which are amazingly overpriced IMHO.
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Handheld-Flashlight-Adjustable-Resistant/dp/B00R5VM3FM/ref=lp_12023816011_1_1?srs=12023816011&ie=UTF8&qid=1522192376&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't need to spend $80 on some USB chargable fancy BS.

You should get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Unlimited-Flashlite-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E

I use one and it works great, plus your light is easily removable if you park in a less-than-safe neighborhood.

Get a flashlight mount, maybe this one will work

http://www.amazon.com/Two-Fish-Unlimited-Flashlite-Holder/dp/B001CJXB5E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1349049136&sr=8-4&keywords=flashlight+mount+bike

then just find the brightest flashlight within your budget, really

I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

to mount this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K5C2EG/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(with the keychain removed. then I reversed the clip and it makes it easy to clip onto a hatbrim or helmet visor, turning it into a headlamp of sorts.)

i use one of these. lock it through the frame and front wheel. with the chain you can lock onto prettymuch anything you want to. for worse areas i throw an evolution mini through the back wheel and seat tube and run a cable from that for my saddle.

Why buy/build a super light bike where you then must carry around a 15.4Lb (7kg) chain?

Kryptonite 999492 Black 14mm x 60" (1415) New York Fahgettaboudit Chain and New York Disc Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0qvqxb9WFS1H5

This 5 foot chain is long enough to wrap around a light post and go through your back tire.

why doesn't he store it in his apartment?

also investing in a good lock helps: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboutit-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1320125575&sr=1-3

Yeah man, just moved into a place with no garage or cover and was agonizing over how to keep my Monster from being an easy target. Found an article by a guy who used to steal bikes for a living. Said those disc locks are toys, the built in steering lock just takes a few firm kicks, and if nothing else two big dudes can just pick a bike up. He recommended the lock below, and make sure its through the FRAME (not swingarm, tire comes off quick) and anchored to something truly stuck in the ground. I've got mine on a big utility pole. Keep the outside of the cover dirty, but feel free to brush out/rinse the inside every once in awhile. If you can, find a place out of view of the main road but under lighting, or consider installing an outdoor solar powered/motion activated light (can be found for like $10-$15)

Kryptonite Chain and Lock:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_4ZSXAb9EF18YA

Motorcycle Cover: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B018ODQK8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_l3SXAbXD7J9QG

Also interesting to note, this once-thief said don't bother with GPS trackers. Apparently very few idiots steal and keep a bike. For the most part they'll find the tracker during teardown or damage the bike so badly you don't want it back anyway.

Cheers

2 of these https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-999492-60-Inch-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8.

Even has the bike insurance incase someone has a grinder and the time to go through 2 of these.

Make sure you get yourself a pretty heavy duty chain and lock it up to something that can't be cut easily. Something like this. It may seem like overkill but if its parked outside without something like this its only a matter of time before it gets lifted.

Here's Your Answer

Any lock can be broken given time, more secure locks take more time. There are various opinions and you can look at various tests people have done (Men's Journal/Gizmodo). However I tend to recommend a u-lock, the chains are very secure but heavy.

Example of a Chain

The Lock I Have

Every brand has various security levels, so you can research and see where your cost to security ratio is, but a cheap lock will be cheap and easier to get through.

I've never biked to school here. But in the GTA I had my bike stolen. Now if I'm going to leave my bike anywhere I use one of these extra large chains: https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-999492-60-Inch-Fahgettaboudit-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=asc_df_B001SMUB7G/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292958473101&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12433647985033178060&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000671&hvtargid=pla-381360330145&psc=1

Anything smaller can be easily cut or removed. I don't know how bad bike theft is here. If it's anything like the GTA then I'd invest in a good lock if your bike is worth anything.

This is my bike lock

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboutit-Chain-Bicycle/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=pd_sbs_auto_3

Also, they do make an even heavier duty version: https://smile.amazon.com/Kryptonite-York-Fahgettaboudit-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B001SMUB7G/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1526569055&sr=1-3&keywords=kryptonite+fahgettaboudit

It's a bit pricier than you were originally talking, but it's some tough shit and can be bought in a 5 ft (1.52m) length.

Like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001SMUB7G/ref=pd_aw_sim_468_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TDTNRHDDEQK93A61B8FB?

Does it scratch the scoot at all?

Check out this gallery of my lock setup.
I had forgotted how I did the front U-lock in my last post but you can see it is hooked to the steering arm. The chain is 5' long so that I can get to any staple even if I can't put the bike close to it. This is also handy when I ride with the family and we just lock all our bikes together if we can't find something solid. this is the chain I use.

Oh, it sure is their responsibility. I just don't trust them.

I don't trust those in the back either.

This is the best one I have seen in terms of construction and flexibility. bonus for cheezy packaging

http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

+1, that one is great. I use the compact version. Nonmobile link:
http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO

If he needs a mirror, the Take-a-look is excellent.

I’ve been using one of these for years. Optical grade glass for a clearer image than shiny plastic film

It's shitty road design.

That said shit like this is why I ride with a take-a-look mounted on my helmet. You should have a 360-degree circle of awareness at all times for your own safety; whether you're in the right or not really doesn't matter when people just pretend you don't exist.

Second the mirror, highly recommend this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Peddler-Cycling-Eyeglass-Mirror/dp/B001VTQNVO I got it for $16 at my LBS, I've had it a week now and wonder how I got along without one.

I bought a Topeak on sale at my LBS for around $25 bucks 2 years ago, and have never had a problem. It's got great reviews and seems fairly solid.

If your bike pump is shrader you will either need an adaptor or you could just buy a floor pump that does both valve types. Something like this.

On Amazon.com the Most helpful Customer Comment for the Topeak Joe Blow Sport II Floor Pump at the top of the page has only two stars:

>186 of 191 people found the following review helpful

>cheapo materials

>By iiigoiii on June 17, 2011

>there's a couple of problems with these pumps, as other reviewers have pointed out for this pump and the original sport.

>- the head can be difficult to get a seal with, especially on the presta side. it may take several tries before being able to get air to flow,

>- the dual head is large, making it difficult to get onto smaller wheels with closer spokes,

>- the hose material is a cheap plastic, not rubber - it quickly starts to crack wherever it's bent (near the outlet and where it's stored over the handle) and soon blows out.

>their support company, todson, refuses to warranty the hose even though it's a material defect. instead of paying them a third to half the cost of a new pump, get 3/16" fuel line from your local auto parts store. fits perfectly, will last a lifetime, and only costs about two bucks!

This review, and the 186 people who agree with it, gives me cause for concern, particularly with the small Brompton wheels, hence why I am on here looking for input. :-)

So, I have that same pump but I've never used it on any tire that already had air, it's always been as part of a flat repair on the road. It might actually be normal, my floor pump doesn't register anything until I give it enough air pressure to get the presta valve to open.

I might suggest that you get a floor pump for your regular tire maintenance. Your arms will thank you. I've been very happy with my Topeak Joe Blow 2.

I like these shorts they are not that expensive and have lasted well over a year and going strong. My floor pump looks something like this but I can't remember the brand name. As far as tools you likely just need a screw driver and an allen key for the adjustments. There are some youtube videos that explain the process. You will want a work stand. <-- is the one I got. It is a little bouncy but it works and it was under $100 so I'm happy with it. You may want to throw in a pedal wrench while your at it.

http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Blow-Sport-Floor-Pump/dp/B002B7LTBY

I have a mountain bike with fat on/off road tires and they get filled to ~55 psi for road use.

My bicycle pump is all I ever use to fill up my motorcycle tires, and I've used it on my car tires in a pinch, though it does take 5-10 minutes or so for car tires if they are really low!

Hey, I was very recently in the same place as you. I bought my first road bike this summer and my first few rides were plagued by pinch flats. I think a large part of the problem was in fact my pump. It was a cheapy with no gauge on it.

I bought one of these joe blow pumps from my LBS. Best decision I made. No flats ever since (which is about 200 miles and a sprint triathlon in extremely crappy conditions). Although I am slightly saddened that I paid 20$ more for that same pump you see in the link, I'm glad its about the same price then as the pump you said you already have. It is a great pump and all you will ever need. Hope this helps.

It's just a plastic/rubber gasket that will seal over a schrader or presta valve. Other popular pumps have a two-sided valve.

If I'm only traveling to the park in my sneakers (fake ride):

• 1 Water Bottle - Insulated Camelback Podium
  
• Phone
  
• Rear Light - PDW Danger Zone
  
• Front Light - Urban 400
  
  If I'm wearing my kit/shoes (real ride) add:
  
  
• 2nd Bottle
  
• Zip lock bag with patches, spare tube, 2 levers
  
• Multi Tool - crankbrothers m10
  
• Hand Pump - Lezyne Road Drive
  
• Dry Bag for phone/wallet - This one, I think
  
• House Keys
  
• Spare Glasses (so I don't have to use my sunglasses if I'm caught out after dark.)
  
  If I'm going on a 4+ hr ride (long ride,) add:
  
  
• First Aid Kit - Pared-Down version of this
  
• Snack - Recently, I've enjoyed Shot Bloks

I can confirm that the Tech EOS kicks ass. Battery life is impressive considering how small it is (I've ridden every day for around an hour for the past month and a half and it's still going fine). Bright enough that I can avoid potholes.

Also, the PDW Danger Zone is an awesome tail light. I've used it with the Tech EOS and it's still kicking as well. It's a really bright fucking tail light, and it looks sweet.

I have this headlight and the mounting system for the light has worked fine. As for a taillight I have the PDW Danger Zone and I can't recommend it enough.

For the other stuff: go to your LBS.

This is my do everything bike, a 2015 Trek Crossrip Comp.

Performance-wise, it is stock, with the exception of the tires. I swapped out the Bontrager Hardcases that came with the bike and put on a pair of [Clement PDX cross tires] (http://clementcycling.com/pdx-clincher). There are lots of gravel trails around my area, and I wanted some grippier tires to handle them. They roll a little bit slower on pavement, but the difference off-road is incredible. This thing absolutely flies on gravel and dirt.

Some other additions include:

-[Ivation Bluetooth Speaker] (http://www.amazon.com/Ivation-Super-Portable-Rechargeable-Bluetooth-Speaker/dp/B00HVMIL1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072570&sr=8-1&keywords=bicycle+speaker)- I like listening to music while riding, but earbuds make it difficult to hear what's going on around me. This speaker is a great alternative. It attaches to the handlebars with a stretchy strap, and is very secure. It has an aux input and a micro SD card slot, but the Bluetooth feature is really nice since I don't have to worry about wires getting tangled or where to put my phone.

-[Portland Design Works Danger Zone Taillight] (http://www.amazon.com/Portland-Design-Works-Danger-Light/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409072793&sr=8-2&keywords=portland+design+works+radbot+1000)- So cars don't run me over at night. Mounting it is super easy, and the light is extremely bright. It also quickly unhooks so I can take it with me and not worry about it getting stolen.

-[Diamondback LED Headlight] (http://www.dickssportinggoods.com/product/index.jsp?productId=41624036&kw=diamondback+headlight&origkw=diamondback+headlight)- So I can see where I'm going at night, and so cars can see me. I haven't had a chance to use it yet, but it seems pretty bright, and the price was good.

-[Blackburn Frame Pump] (http://www.blackburndesign.com/pumps/mountain-air-anyvalve-mini-pump.html#.U_y_7twWxO4)- So I can inflate my tires when needed, and because I like the look of a frame pump.

This is my first bike that isn't from a box box store, and I absolutely love it so far. It's my commuter, my cruiser, my off-roader, and whatever else I need it to be. I highly recommend the Crossrip line to anyone that is interested in it.

Truth is, the best preparation you can do is to acclimate by riding in the cold weather - you'll get used to it.
Having said that, I use certain pieces of gear that really help me out. Here are a few key pieces...

Pogies - insulated bar mitt covers. The go over your handle bars and cut the wind, but are also insulated. You still wear a glove, but this is far better than just a glove or mitt.
Check this site out...
https://bikepacking.com/gear/pogies/

Next, you need to have good head covering.
I use OR Windstopper Balaclava
https://www.outdoorresearch.com/us/en/sonic-balaclava/p/2435420001006

Ski goggles are a must.

Wool tube scarf for your neck.

For your torso and chest, you need to layer:
Base layer - I choose merino wool. There are basically 3 thicknesses to choose from.
Wool keeps you warm even if you sweat, dries well, doesn't stink.

Next, insulating layer or layers.
Something warm like a shirt + Polartec jacket - again, 3 different thicknesses depending on you and how cold you get.
Long johns / fleece pants.

Last layer is a shell with at least a wind panel on the front. Gore Windstopper is my #1 choice, but I have many different jackets. I prefer jackets that have pit zips (zippers in the arm pits) so I can ventilate excess heat.

My cycling pants have a wind panel on the front to stop the wind.

Wool socks.
Darn Tough, a Vermont company, guarantees their socks for life - if they ever wear out, they will replace them for free.

Good boots, nothing too big. If you use a cycling shoe, there are insulated covers available for winter use or even winter cycling boots.

Whatever you do - don't let yourself sweat.
You need to find the balance point of being warm without sweating. If you sweat, you will become cold.

It all becomes an attempt at equilibrium - finding that comfortable warm spot without overheating & sweating, or allowing yourself to get cold.

Protect exposed skin especially your face, nose, ears, & cheeks.
Goggles keep your eyes warm, your lashes free from frost, and prevent your eyes from tearing. The polarised lenses help you see better.

As for your bike.
Studded tires - check out Schwalbe tires - actually may help, otherwise a winter tire with a winter rubber compound should do the trick.
Do you necessarily count on your knobby MTN bike tires doing a good job, the rubber may become too hard to properly grip the road or ice.

Lights...go with something detachable that uses a standard battery. Bring your light in to keep it warm.

I'm currently using:

Rear light: Portland Design Works Danger Zone Tail Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00435IPFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-uj5CbV3JHJA6

And a Planet Bike Blaze Front light X 2.

Www.PlanetBike.com

Keep your bike clean - wash the salt off regularly.
CLEAN AND LUBE YOUR CHAIN AND DRIVETRAIN.

At the end of winter, give your bike a deep cleaning.
Change your cables.
Undo your headset, crank, wheel hubs, clean the bearings and repack with new clean grease.
Tune your derailleurs.
Check your chain for stretch and replace if needed.
Check you rear derailleur hangar.
Spray done tube saver in your down tube and you're ready for summer.

Check out these sites for gear.

Www.MEC.ca

Www.Rei.com

Www.Bikepacking.com

on YouTube: GCN & GMBN

Hope the info helps.
Cheers,

#1 Get real lights--both headlight and taillight.

#2. Mounting a headlight low helps define potholes and other road issues. If your light is aligned with your eyes, say mounted on your head or high on the handlebars, you don't get any shadows. But a low mounted headlight--say fork-mounted--really casts some shadows and allows you to see those potholes.

Personally I like a low and a high headlight, not a low light only. There are too many situations when the low light is hidden from an oncoming vehicles. But low + high is a good combo.

LED lights are so good anymore there is not reason to not ride with something sufficiently bright. Like 1000 lumens or more up front and at least nearly that many in the back. I ride with relatively cheap CREE style led lights (something like this, though that's not a recommendation for that particular brand/style as I haven't tried it) that are like $20.

I've been running these taillights for a while, 3 watt CREE. That particular one isn't available any more but it gives you an idea of the wattage needed to be truly visible. Just for example, one of the 3 watt CREEs will very clearly outblast 3 of these. Also it has a battery that will actually last a while vs lights powered by AAAs to save a few grams--but last only a couple of rides at best.

Anyway, when you have enough lights on, front-, rear-, and side-visible, you'll be surprised how much room you get from motorists. I generally enjoy riding at night more than the day.

Rising at night is my favourite. I actually feel safer when it's dark out. Invest in lights. I use this [front light](light & motion urban 500 bike light (2016), onyx https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0FCAKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mMRwDbHR7Z8ES) and rear light combo. I feel like its bare minimum though. I bought reflective tape and put it on my helmet too. (Wear a helmet) But the fact is, no matter how much effort you put into making yourself visible, a drunk driver wont see you. I have a cheaper GoPro mounted on my handlebars. That way you have some sort of evidence if anything goes awry.

Side streets are your friend, even if it takes you 5 mins out of the way. I try and avoid Milwaukee and Lincoln mainly because of all the bars on those streets. Just remeber to ride defensively, gont go 35mph just because the roads are clear. It's not a race. Ride safe, buddy!

The bike started life as a 2012 Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro, which came with some good components already. SRAM Rival partial group,
FSA crankset, and Mavic Aksium Race wheels. I've had good luck with this bike and it's got almost 2k miles on it, so I kept most of it, but not all.

Once I decided to make it my commuter bike, I started adding things.

For lights I picked up the Cygolite Hot shot rear light and use one of my MTB lights if needed for the front, a
Chinese knock-off CREE XM-L2 front light

For tires I went with the Panaracer RiBMo 700x32c based on feedback from users on here.

You can't go wrong with a Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack and Ortlieb Back Roller Classics.


I wanted some extra gearing for those climbs along the way, so I went with the SRAM FORCE Rear Derailleur so I could run a SRAM PG-1050 11-32 Cassette.

Of course, I needed a new KMC X10SL chain for the new gear combo.

I picked up a new road bike and pulled the Ritchey Pro Streem Saddle and Ritchey Pro Biomax bars off of that bike and used them on my commuter, along with some new Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm bar tape and some Soma Road Flares for added visibility.

For a little less weight and possible shock absorbtion, I threw in a Chinese knock off carbon seat post.

I also wanted something besides my regular riding shoes, so I opted for the Shimano Click'R PD-T700 pedals and
Shimano SH-CT40 Cycling Shoes
, which I love and highly recommend.

I also needed to adjust the fit so I picked up a Kalloy Uno 6 90mm stem because I've had great luck with them on other bikes.

And for added safety, I picked up two rolls of 3M Scotchcal Reflective Striping Tape in white and black, and added white stripes to the white frame and black stripes to the rims and the back of my helmet.

Don't worry about the helmet. None are really safer than others, just lighter and stylish.

You don't mention maintenance. You'll want to start cleaning your chain really regularly. Keep it clean and lubricated and it'll last FAR longer for you. You'll probably need a new chain each year too.

You might already know all about bike maintenance, but if not, get a good thick guide like Zinn's guide to bike maintenance, and start reading. Also watch YouTube videos before you try something the first time -- it'll save you tons of pain and money!

The backpack is fine, it'll just make your back really sweaty. Panniers will fix that, not just a rack (that can work though, just get some bungee cords). Panniers and a well designed bag can be great. I have this, and it's very functional, although I hesitate to recommend it as I haven't tried any others for comparison. It clips into a rack by the same manufacturer making it trivial to hold it down.

Topeak Velcro Strap Version Dxp Trunk Bag with Rigid Molded Panels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WSLT2O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yxC9wb6QSPKM2

Pack a multi tool and probably two spare tubes. Patches are great, but they can't fix everything. I'd also suggest having a plan for a taxi or uber ride. You won't need it, but if you have a flat just before an important meeting, it's good to have a plan in advance.

I'd plan to ride heavy, so light weight upgrades won't help much (losing weight will help way more than any upgrade). The best upgrade you can do is probably puncture resistant tires. $100 will get you a great set that will save you dozens of flats. I love continental gatorskins or continental 4 season tires, but you'll have to do your own research.

You can get great gravel tires that run fine on asphalt in case some light off roading can save you some time.

Finally get lights for night riding. Get a rear red light that has a mode that's on all the time and still flashes brighter. Then people won't lose your position with the strobing, but it'll still grab their attention so you don't get hit by a texting driver. I really like this one, but there are dozens of decent choices.

Cygolite Hotshot 2-Watt USB Rechargeable Taillight with USB Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DVA57Y/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_GQC9wbAKFWJVD

The front light is critical so you can see at night. I love the light and motion lights. The more expensive versions are really bright for off road riding, but they also give you far more than an hour with the same brightness as cheaper versions. I suggest this one, but as always, it's a pretty personal choice.

Light and Motion Urban 650 Headlight (Silver Moon) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KAPC2FG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_IIC9wb7D5E8M1


In order of what I'd purchase first:

Brushes, degreaser and lubricant for the chain if you don't have it.

Rear light for safety.

Front light if you will ever ride at night.

Better tires.

Tools to cover more regular maintenance.

Panniers

I would suggest multiple flashing red lights facing the rear so there is no question of your existence. People tend to drive fast while not paying attention on rural roads, your light display should immediately catch their eye.

Start with something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Hotshot-2-Watt-Rechargeable-Taillight/dp/B005DVA57Y

I have had good success with Cygolite. For the head light I would get at least a 550 lumen one if not more for dark rural roads.

I'm primarily a cyclist actually and I first saw the material on a runner. I'm convinced it's saved me on the road when I'm riding in low-light conditions. Still, I also have been taking initiative to upgrade my bike lights and now ride with:

• Front light #1 - WindFire 3800Lm
  
• Front light #2 - Cygolite 850Lm
  
• Tail light - Cygolite Hotshot
  
  My tail light is a little weak and I need to double-up or get a brighter one, I think.
  
  Stay safe!

I've not used the niterider, but I sure do like the Cygolite Hotshot. It's also 2w and USB.

Hey there! I wish you the best of luck in your training and thanks for the contest!

My item is a bike lock. I'm going to be needing a one come Fall when I start school.

Will this do the job?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Bike-4-Feet-Kryptoflex-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1466694629&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+lock

Hope you don't mind the questions!

Thanks

Ulock like this

If you're not averse to heading across to Kirkland, this one is a solid option for $50: https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/bik/6172493923.html - 17" should be right for 5'6" and at that price you can add $20 fenders, a $20 rack, $20 in lights (front and rear!) and $40 on a u lock with auxiliary cable - bike theft is pretty rampant in Seattle and campuses are often hit. If everyone around you has sad cable locks and you've got the bother of a u-lock and a cable, your chances of the bike making it through the year in your possession increase greatly. (Hot tips on how to actually lock up once you have said lock - http://www.sfbike.org/resources/theft-locking/ )

Alternate options: https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/6164879482.html - up in shoreline and $155 but this Specialized Hardrock should be a good fit at 16" and still has a bit in the budget for a rack/fenders/lock/lights. Plus it looks to be in good shape.

I got this and so far it works well
https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1498956005&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock&psc=1

Road bikes are great lighter the easier it is to ride, it might be worth getting slime tyres to stop punctures, I have a triangle bag that goes inside the frame that I put a small pump and a multi tool in + my lunch on a weekday.

I would recommend two thick D locks to use when parking, I thread the 'D' through the bag buckles and keep the keys and lock in the Bag.

for weather gear you need a rain layer warm layer and sweat layer to keep out the cold. waterproof gloves, goggles or eye protection.

Fenders would be a good choice as well to stop mud flicking up.

Don't get a mountain bike, really not very easy to ride and heavy. Also lights

Yeah, they're definitely more 'theft deterrence' than theft proof. Basically whatever makes your bike less appealing to steal than the cable locked one next to it. Generally Kryptonite locks are well regarded, but the price reflects that. They'll have different ratings for 'medium theft' and 'high theft' areas. Vancouver's generally 'high'. This isn't their highest $100+ style lock but it's nice because it comes with a cable you can use to secure the wheels if they're quick release - http://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2 For reference, because locks are only useful if used correctly, this is a handy guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ryY-qMFLcfo

You'll be fine with a cheaper set. I would recommend this cable+u-lock set for $35: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372711242&sr=8-1&keywords=u-lock

> u think this is a fine lock for a relatively cheap bike ?
> https://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482028755&sr=8-1&keywords=kryptonite tyvm
>

My girlfriend has this lock, the biggest flaw in it is that the lock only engages on one side, that means only one cut is required to remove the lock. Compared to the Kryptonite New York which engages on both sides, which means a thief would need to cut both sides of the shackle to remove the lock.

I use the cryptoflex cables in conjunction with the D-lock...

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Kryptonite-Bike-4-Feet-Kryptoflex-Cable/dp/B005YPK8G2

I have a 4 foot one for securing my front wheel and saddle and a 9 foot one (kept in my trailer) for securing my cargo trailer when out and about with it...

Happened to me two weeks ago. Brooks saddle gone by green Park. So I've now got a third lock for my bike just for my seat. This lock

All in all a general pain

I'm pretty sure Kazoo is making a joke about stealing my new bike, lol. So I'm not giving you that info.

But this is the lock I used: Kryptonite KryptoLok Series 2 Standard Heavy Duty Bicycle U Lock with 4ft Flex Bike Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UyYUCb50VK507

I'm sure there are better locks, but it seemed to make the bikes next to mine look more attractive to thieves than mine was (when I used it!). I always put the front wheel, frame, and whatever I was locking to through the U and then ran the cable through my rear wheel.

You should invest in one of these buddy. Highly recommended for that sweet bike you got.

http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426711864&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=kryptomite+bike+lock

Right now? This bicycle helmet: http://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Summer-Helmet-Magenta-Medium/dp/B005XSWHHI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=17MJGPKXODNO7&coliid=I1SULGABL61G84&psc=1

and this bike lock set: http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Kryptolok-Standard-Bicycle-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK8G2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=17MJGPKXODNO7&coliid=IZMJDZ2K4SVSV

Gotta protect your bikes and your brains!

I just got the most reviewd one on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My bike is a $800 Century 1 --- so not TOP tier but still enough to definitely be worried about...

This Kryptonite lock is what we had for both bikes. Note: They pulled the metal brackets the lock was attached to out of the wall to get the bikes. There is another bike wheel secured with the same lock hanging from one of the brackets - but the cable securing the frame was cut and the bike is gone.

So while I'll be the first to acknowledge that no lock will keep thieves away, in this case, the lock was enough of a deterrent that they felt it easier to physically rip off the the structure of the building it was attached to.

This is the one I use. It has metal keys. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005YPK8G2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After quite a lot of research, I've taken the plunge on buying a road bike for general use after not riding a bike in like a decade... Decided to splurge on a B'Twin Triban 500SE (shop link that'll probably inevitably break), rather than deal with the hassle of trying to find a second hand bike locally and deal with potential repairs etc. And of course for my own personal vanity of liking minimalist designs, the bike's look is perfect for me, I'm not the biggest fan of the more traditionally bright decals etc.

It'll be the first nice bike I've had as well, I had a massive mountain bike thing when I was a teenager but never used it off-road, considering I'm a slender fellow it weighed a tonne and wasn't much fun to use. It'll be interesting to see what a light road bike will be like. Can't wait for it to arrive! :D

I've been trying to make sure I don't forget any of the essential accessories I'll be needing. So far I've ordered these:

• Multi-tool
  
• Puncture Repair Kit
  
• Mini-pump
  
• D-Lock with a cable loop
  
• Helmet
  
  Things I need to look at:
  
  
• Lights Bought a NiteRider Solas and Lezyne Super Drive XL for lights.
  
• Oil
  
• Cover (since there's barely any room in my flat, might have to sort something out if I'm not using the bike often in Winter or something).
  
  Is there any other essentials I'm missing? I imagine there might be a lot of tiny things that I'm missing, stuff like reflectors.
  
  Also recommendations for the stuff I'm missing will be appreciated, I just bought some good rated stuff off Amazon, no idea if the reviews are completely wrong, I know they can be for some products I'm more versed in.
  
  Also any tips for someone's first ride in a while, and especially first time on drop handles? I've done some basic research on how to hold the bars and use the Microshift gear levers, but I'm sure there's little tips that might help.
  

For years I used this lock in the high theft areas of SLC with my 1000$ road bike. Zero issues or problems. I'm fairly sure that after the BIC pen hack on older model Kryptonite these became the gold standard. Ive seen people that can crack them with a good car jack or grinder but i think the meth heads look for easier targets and lack that equipment.

Should i get a multi-gear or fixed gear if i'm only going to use for commuting?

what's a good lock? is this a good one?


Sorry, but i really am a noob when it comes to bicycles.

As a college student at an extremely bicycle friendly university, this is the U-lock that I use.

I was just reading this review on Amazon and it looks like that lock can be cut with bolt cutters. I'd go for the higher end kryptonite locks, like this one

1.21 gigawatts

Ill be spending my weekend with my girlfriend looking at the apartment we'll be moving in together in

I just bought this kryptonite u-lock and cable from amazon. I feel comfortable leaving my bike alone. It's not an expensive bike ($200 bike from kijiji) but I love it and I mostly lock it up downtown. The only thing I don't love about it, is it's heavy/awkward to carry. I keep it in my backpack, but if it slides to a side, my whole backpack slides too. But I really don't mind since it's probably that weight that makes it so secure

guess it's this one? Still 1.1kg and quite small? However, seess like the best one so far...

The spam filter removed your post because it thinks your Amazon url's are affiliate links. If you shorten them like below, Reddit won't filter them out.

• http://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Pocket-Rocket-Master-Blaster/dp/B000FI6XGC
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Resettable-Combination-Magnum/dp/B000WEIIQC
  
• http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK9C0
  
  You can also remove the human readable part and just make them /dp/CODEVALUE and they will work.

Its this one

> secure your bike properly, because it will get stolen

This. You'll also need to buy a real and good lock, I heard the most effective and cheapest are these kind of bike locks.

Yeah, basically always lock your back wheel and frame with a U-lock to a sturdy, stationary object (There are plenty of bike parking racks. NEVER lock your bike to just itself or another bike). That's bare minimum. That's usually sufficient if you're going to just be in class for an hour or two.

In Davis, cable locks are just a visual deterrent. They're essentially useless, especially if you have a nice bike.

If you have quick-release, either swap them out for regular wheels or be very vigilant about locking both wheels with U-locks.

If you have a nice bike, never park it outside at night on campus. Also, try not to leave your bike outside if you're going to be away (going home for the weekend, winter break, etc.). There are people who go hunting for bikes and bike parts at night and especially during breaks when nobody is around.

It's also a good idea to take a short chain/cable and thread it through your frame and bike seat, just so that's secure too.

Contrary to popular belief, bigger is not better when it comes to U-locks. You want the thickest, fattest, smallest U-lock possible that fits your bike. For example, this mini U-lock would probably do better than this standard U-lock. The idea is, the longer the U-lock, the more space it gives thieves to use for leverage to pry open your lock. I'm not sure if you buy into that, but mechanically it makes sense, and the smaller ones also happen to be cheaper too. Some of my friends with really nice bikes (think $500+) have two small, fat U-locks and they do their job well.

I've also heard that you do want two different types of locks (U-lock and a thick cable, for instance), because that means thieves have to carry two different tools to break the two different locks. This is up to you, and I still think two U-locks are fine.

You can call any bike shop and they'll help! It's worth a try at least. Good luck!

I went all out and got one of these W/ the 4ft. extension cable as well. Obviously I won't be leaving it anywhere out of sight for more than a few minutes because bike theft in Whistler is SO bad. https://www.amazon.ca/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463033935&sr=8-6&keywords=kryptonite+u+lock

Yeah, definitely go with a solid U-lock. Cable locks can be cut in less than 30 seconds. I recommend the Kryptonite Mini-7 w/ cable or the Kryptonite New York u-locks. They both come with theft insurance (provided you register the locks and the bikes they'll be locking within 15 days of purchase).

Edit: or check out the gear Wiki

You can see most of the letters on the picture.

Kryptonite New York Lock

Definitely would not buy it with out the lock, since you half to buy a lock. And that 40 bucks won't buy anything close to it. Plus the lock really makes this a good deal.

Kryptonite New York Standard Bicycle U-Lock with Transit FlexFrame Bracket (4-Inch x 8-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e1fyzbPV7XNA4

Get a thicc U-lock (like this) and a thicc flex cable (like this)

When you lock your bike outside, lock the frame with the U-lock, and string the flex cable through both wheels and the seat if you can. Never had my bike stolen. If you have a nice bike, you need to get just as nice security for it.

Other tips:

• Lock your bike in high-traffic areas
  
• Make your locking configuration as complex as you can
  
• If you bike in the winter/rain, get chain grease, your chain WILL get rusty af and break if you don't.

Kryptonite ny standard $53.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005YPK9SY/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1468374829&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ulock

Recomendas qual? Estava a ponderar este que só prende uma roda ou este que já tem um cabo para prender o selim da bicicleta ou roda da frente

Yeah I really like it, it's single speed though (but not fixed gear) which may turn some people off. But it's easier to take care of myself than a geared bike is.

In most cases you'll be fine leaving it outside during the day for a few hours. If you have lights, you'll probably want to get in the habit of taking them with you though when you lock it up.

When you do lock up, you're gonna want one of these Kryptonite locks to lock the frame to the post and the bendy chain thing to wrap around the wheel and the U-lock. You could also get these Pinhead locks to lock your tires in a set it and forget it sort of way. You can get these at most bike shops.

I don't know anything about bike alarms. The key to not getting your bike stolen is don't be lazy about it.

Would something like this suffice?

I use this Kryptonite lock in SF, but 75% of the time I don't have the cable with me. I do have security skewers though. The lock is smaller but will secure the back wheel to parking meters and leaves minimal space.

I agree and I disagree. There's two kinds of bikes that get stolen. Really expensive ones and everything else. If you have an expensive one and someone wants it, there isn't a u lock in the world (or at least available retail) that will save it from 15 minutes out on the streets. But most people don't own that kind of bike.

You're talking about making your bike less appealing to steal and part of that is making it less appealing than other bikes. Everything else being equal, I bet the bike thief would start cutting at the cheap Canadian Tire lock than the kryptonite (This is what I use). Of course, if it's only your bike out there and no one else is around, they might grab it easily enough. I'd probably bus if I knew I'd be in that situation and if I also expect high traffic from bike thieves.

I would recommend going with kryptonite, but it's also important to know that that's only half of not getting your bike stolen.

Good point. I'll save for some saddle and wheels. My current Kilo TT seat looks brand new so I'm planning on replacing it when it wears out. I got a helmet, front brakes, and grip yesterday so I'm thinking I should get a lock first before I buy more parts haha.

I'm looking at this one right now!
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Evolution-Bicycle-FlexFrame-3-25-Inch/dp/B005YPK9VQ?t=slicinc-20&tag=slicinc-20&ascsubtag=azbSmMjDEeKhJ47FIPa4tA0_2syZ3_USN_0_0

Do you use a lock? Which do you use?

Another option going the same route is something like this

It's the little brother of the light KMart posted.

Get one for your head and one for your bars, that way you can turn your head to illuminate things that are not directly in front of you and level.

Also get a $5 wide angle lens for the light on your bars.

Cree headlight 17.99 Three light settings all of them bright as hell. You can get a diffuser lens for like 4 bucks that makes it a wide beam.

Edit: bad link. better one.

Thanks, I brought the light off amazon.

$16

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398201820&sr=8-1&keywords=lithium+headlight+bike

This is hands down the best front light for the money. It's so bright that people might mistake you for a motorcycle/car. Some people suggest monitoring the charging, and disconnecting once it's fully charged. Also, mount the light so it's dangling from the bottom, rather than on top on your handlebar.

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397169543&sr=8-1&keywords=cree+bike+light

For the rear, I suggest this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150800979140?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Not on the body, but this is what I use on my almost nightly rides. The frame bag has two nice pockets that make gear easily accessible. Room for my wallet, phone, and repair kit too. I also have a powerful 1200 lumen light that lets me see what's happening farther ahead.
http://www.modernbike.com/itemgroup.asp?igpk=2126186169&TID=367&gclid=COza-7O2g7gCFZBaMgodVQUAtA
http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4

NICE! I think I'll order that. The one I have is insufficient.


Found it for ~$4 cheaper Link

I'm gonna take some flak for this but I bought three of these guys ($20x3=$60) 1200 lumen is probably overrated a bit but not by too much. Maybe ~900:
http://www.amazon.com/RioRand-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4


And then I bought one wide angle lens.
http://www.amazon.com/MagicShine-Gemini-Lights-Headlight-Includes/dp/B004WLCLQY

I am into my lights for $70ish bucks and have one unfocused beam, one trail sized focused beam and a spare light & battery. Nothing worse than getting stuck in the middle nowhere - in the dark.

So yeah, I took the cheap route. The bike specific brands do offer a stronger light but my light output matches or beats all of my riding buddies with brand name lights.

Worst thing I can say about the setup is that they are bound to the bars with a rubber strap. You have to tighten it down pretty well or it can slip on the bar. I didn't like helmet mounted because I blind my friends by looking at them when talking. So yeah probably not the most popular post but they work and they work well. They've lasted about 3 years already and no issues. One word of advice, some of the newer LEDs use a different battery connector so order yours at the same time so all of your lights & batteries are interchangeable.

Interesting, I'll try it. This 1200 lumen looks good for a main, would just have to come up with mounting hardware.

This is basically a knock off of the magicshine. Works just as well for a lot cheaper. I have a magicshine mj-808 and my friend has one of these. It is almost identical. This particular one claims 1200 lumens too. So it might be even brighter than the mj-808.

http://www.amazon.com/Lumen-Bicycle-HeadLight-Flashlight-Headlamp/dp/B006QQX3C4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1367445162&sr=8-1&keywords=magicshine

This! For the price, it is absolutely worth it. I've used it so many times in the dark and it is just so unbelievably bright.

Yep, most visible-light LEDs have almost no UV. However, use good LEDs, no cheap ones. You want "binned" LEDs; those having a specific color temperature. There's more of a guarantee that there will be no UV.

I like Cree XM-L T6 (T6 is the bin code--warm white.) XM-L LEDs are very efficient, and can get very, very bright if pushed to their max. current. At high currents they do get hot, and require heat sinks to avoid burning out. You can find XM-L flashlight/bike light/head lamps that are real cheap when ordered from China. Wire the battery terminals up to a wall adapter, and they' can be pretty decent lamps. IKEA has some cheap-ish ($10,) but less-bright LED desk lamps. Right now I'm using 4 of those for my emulsion work.

Really frickin' bright bike light...

1200 lumens, $23: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can buy a mount for your helmet for an additional $12.

I'd also recommend going with 2 lights, one for the bars, one for the helmet -- they're not always pointed in the same directions.

Have fun! Darkness makes old trails new again.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QQX3C4/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will guarantee you that you can't get a better deal on a light. I've been using this to commute for the last 2 months and was blown away.

I think you should go into lights a little more. Many people make the mistake of just grabbing the cheapest lights, which aren't bright enough to help you actually see or stand out enough that motorists see you.

Most rear lights are fine, it is usually front lights that I find inadequate. I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006QQX3C4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1368717055&sr=8-2&pi=SL75 but it does have a small battery you must find room to mount and on the brightest setting only lasts a few hours. If you keep it charged between commutes, it is perfect, though. I can clearly see the road and cars can clearly see my light. Before, I was using a 1-Watt AA battery powered one and it was ok, but I had a lot of close calls because motorists still couldn't see me until I was right on top of them. If you don't want to deal with mounting a battery and keeping it charged, I recommend using nothing weaker than a 1-Watt, but more will be better and however much you spend, it will be cheaper than a hospital bill.

I just got a Cree bike light to mount to my handlebar. I already have a Magicshine mounted on my helmet.

I'm surprised that the Cree is much brighter than my Magicshine which cost double the price, which still isn't much for good lights. I just ran the Cree at the lowest light setting so it blended better with my other light.

I just doubt that flashlights like the one shown in the picture here are bright compared to a real bike light. Plus, the battery lasts 3 hours which is more than enough time to cover 20mi on most trails.

Grab a pack of these https://www.amazon.com/Salzmann-Scotchlite-Spoke-Reflector-Bicycle/dp/B00DNG8DSY

These invisible during the day, but super bright at night. Combine them with some reflective tape on the frame, bright lights, maybe some tyres with reflective sidewalls when the time comes to change them, plus bright clothes and you're super safe!

Half my commute is after dark. I like putting a couple 3M reflective thingies on my spokes for side visibility and I have lights on the front and back of the helmet to make sure I'm seen over the top of cars.

The helmet light is especially nice for aiming right at cars waiting at side streets to make sure they see me. I've stopped cars in the act of pulling out in front of me several times by hitting them with the beam from my helmet light. I use an LED flashlight.

This is another option. I use these spoke reflectors . My rims also have reflective tape.

I use one of these, usually on medium, which would be about 500 or 600 lumens, and aim it about 15-20ft ahead of the bike. It's got a tight beam pattern, and doesn't blind other riders.

edit: most of what everyone else says is dead on. Please don't be that ass with the flasher (every headlight that I've ever looked at puts out maximum lumens on flashing mode, and will blind other riders.) Point them where you want to see in order to avoid obstacles - not at the sky or straight ahead. I have a long history of doing endurance mountain bike races, so if you ever want to discuss real lights for seeing in the dark (race speeds! AT NIGHT! IN THE WOODS!) Let me know.

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y/

I've had one of these for 1.5 years and it works great. I pair it with another headlight on my helmet and it's plenty for riding singletrack at night on my MTB.

I just ordered this bright eyes one:
http://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

A guy I work with has one and loves it. The bright eyes brand is supposed to have much better warranty and support than other similar knockoff brands. The battery on it is supposed to be better as well.

Only thing is he said you probably need a diffuser as the beam is pretty narrow as it. His came with a diffuser, even though the listing doesn't say it does. I'm waiting for mine to be delivered before I order one.

https://www.amazon.com/Bright-Eyes-Rechargeable-Headlight-taillight/dp/B00GJZ015Y/ref=pd_sbs_468_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00GJZ015Y&pd_rd_r=HJTEYFZFRC1AKMFZFA5J&pd_rd_w=fDn7J&pd_rd_wg=pac6k&psc=1&refRID=HJTEYFZFRC1AKMFZFA5J
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LXTORC4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my helmet

I like these ones from Amazon if you are going to go this route:
Bright Eyes

Basically the same LED and similar housing, but better QC, and much better attention to detail.

Everything from the packaging, to the waterproofing of the housing, to the included accessories, are worlds better than a similar cheap Chinese one I bought off I ebay. Plus, I feel much more confident with the battery. Some of those Chinese versions have had reports of the batteries catching fire while charging.

Also, it's Prime so you don't need to wait for it to ship from China, you can return it without hassle if you don't like it, it comes with a FREE tail light that is really nice, and it just has the overall appearance of a product that somebody actually cares about.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJZ015Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415627423&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

I have a rechargeable light with battery pack from Amazon. At first hated the bulky battery but damn do I love this light, I think they have a new version note too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GJZ015Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481961960&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=bright+eyes+bike+light&dpPl=1&dpID=51SmEyvHJbL&ref=plSrch

Ahh, that looks like a nice one. I've got two that I switch between.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C2MHNJK/ref=sxts3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474239773&sr=3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

https://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Metro-550-USB-Light/dp/B00LXTORC4

I need to start taking both with, just in case something happens to one of them.