Best data storage products according to redditors
We found 29,223 Reddit comments discussing the best data storage products. We ranked the 3,978 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. WD Blue 1TB PC Hard Drive - 7200 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache, 3.5" - WD10EZEX
Reliable everyday computingWD quality and reliabilityFree Acronis True Image WD Edition cloning softwareMassive capacities up to 6 TB available2-year manufacturer's limited warranty
2. Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB External Hard Drive Portable HDD – Black USB 3.0 for PC Laptop and Mac, 2 Months Adobe CC Photography (STDR2000100)
Store and access 2TB of photos and files on the go with Backup Plus Slim, a portable external hard driveThis portable hard drive features a minimalist metal enclosure, and is a stylish USB driveSimply plug this portable hard drive into a Windows or Mac computer via the included USB 3.0 cable to back...
3. Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM)
Innovative V-Nand Technology: Powered by Samsung V-NAND Technology, the 860 EVO SSD offers optimized performance for everyday computing as well as rendering large-sized 4K videos and 3D data used by the latest applicationsEnhanced read write speeds: Sequential read and write performance levels of up...
4. Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-7TE250BW)
Highest-quality components and engineering from the #1 memory manufacturerWorry-free data security with AES 256-bit full-disk encryptionNo moving parts means no hard drive spin ups, no noise and superior data protectionAn innovative lightweight design that allows you to work smarter and play longer....
5. Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM)
Innovative V-Nand Technology: Powered by Samsung V-Nand Technology, the 860 Evo SSD offers optimized performance for everyday computing as well as rendering large-sized 4K videos and 3D data used by the latest applicationsContinuity tester/Wire tracerSecure encryption: Protect data by selecting secu...
6. Seagate (ST2000LX001) FireCuda 2TB Solid State Hybrid Drive Performance SSHD – 2.5 Inch SATA 6Gb/s Flash Accelerated for Gaming PC Laptop
Store games and play them faster with an internal SSHD drive delivering SSD performance and HDD capacitiesPerfect for PC gaming and laptop gaming, this hybrid hard drive helps load maps and boot levels faster with flash enhanced speedsChoose from a variety of capacities for an optimized rigLow power...
7. Kingston 120GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/120G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance
Fast start up, loading and file transfersMore reliable and durable than a hard driveMultiple capacities with space for applications or a hard drive replacementSSD must be initialized and formatted to enable host computer and applications to access the drive.Use Windows Disk Management tool, or MacOS...
8. Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB)
M.2 PCIe Gen3 x 4 Interface. PCIe 3.1 Compliant / NVMe 1.3 Compliant.Power Management Support for APST / ASPM / L1.2.Supports SMART and TRIM commands. Supports ONFi 2.3, ONFi 3.0, ONFi 3.2 and ONFi 4.0 interface.Advanced Wear Leveling, Bad Block Management, and Over-Provision.All Sabrent SSDs come w...
9. (Old Model) Seagate 1TB Gaming SSHD SATA 8GB NAND SATA 6Gb/s 2.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000LM014)
Solid State Hybrid Drive, boots and performs like an SSD9.5mm drive for mobile devices, add capacity without adding complexity to get more from your PC, Mac, tablet or game consoleUp to 4x faster than traditional 5400 RPM HDD. Ideal for gaming and performance laptopEasy Playstation upgrade up to 500...
10. SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 530 MB/s - SDSSDA-240G-G26
Easy upgrade for faster boot-up, shutdown, application load and response (As compared to 5400 RPM SATA 2.5” hard drive. Based on published specifications and internal benchmarking tests using PCMark Vantage scores.)Boosts burst write performance, making it ideal for typical PC workloadsThe perfect...
11. Kingston Digital 120GB SSDNow V300 SATA 3 2.5 (7mm height) Solid State Drive (SV300S37A/120G)
Reliable: with no moving parts, solid-state drives are less likely to fail than standard hard drivesEconomical: design optimized to make migrating to an SSD more affordableCapacity: 120GB, Interface: SATA Rev. 3.0 (6Gb/s) – with backwards compatibility to SATA Rev. 2.0. 120GB — 180MB/s Read and ...
12. SAMSUNG T5 Portable SSD 500GB - Up to 540MB/s - USB 3.1 External Solid State Drive, Black (MU-PA500B/AM)
Superfast read write speeds: SSD with V-NAND offers ultra-fast data transfer speeds of up to 540MB/s (up to 4.9x faster than external HDDs); Ideal for transferring large-sized data including 4K videos, high-resolution photos, games and moreCompact and portable design: Top to bottom shock resistant m...
13. Seagate (STEB8000100) Expansion Desktop 8TB External Hard Drive HDD – USB 3.0 for PC Laptop
Enjoy enormous desktop storage space for years to come for photos, movies, music, and moreDesigned to work with Windows computers, this external USB drive makes backup, easy with a simple drag and dropSetup is easy; Just connect the external hard drive to your Windows computer for automatic recognit...
14. (Old Model) Seagate 2TB Laptop HDD SATA III 2.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive 9.5MM (ST2000LM003)
Capacity: 2TBInterface: SATA 3.0 Gb/s (1.5 Gb/s)Rotational Speed: 5400 RPM classATA Security Mode Feature Set, SATA Native Command Queuing Feature,ATA S.M.A.R.T. Feature Set, Serial ATA 3.0 Gb/s Interface Support, NoiseGuard, Load/Unload Head Technology
15. Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM)
Innovative V-Nand Technology: Powered by Samsung V NAND Technology, the 860 EVO SSD offers optimized performance for everyday computing as well as rendering large sized 4K videos and 3D data used by the latest applicationsEnhanced read write speeds: Sequential read and write performance levels of up...
16. Kingston 240GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/240G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance
Fast start up, loading and file transfersMore reliable and durable than a hard driveMultiple capacities with space for applications or a hard drive replacement
17. Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe Internal SSD, up to 2000MB/s - CT1000P1SSD8
Capacity: Up to 2TB with sequential reads/writes up to 2,000/1,700 MB/sNVMe PCIe interface marks the next step in storage innovationMicron 3D NAND advancing the World's memory and storage technology for 40 yearsNVMe Standard Self Monitoring and Reporting Technology (Smart)Redundant Array of Independ...
18. Crucial MX300 525GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT525MX300SSD1
Sequential reads/writes up to 530 / 510 MB/s on all file typesRandom reads/writes up to 92K / 83K on all file typesOver 90x more energy efficient than a typical hard driveAccelerated by Micron 3D NAND technologyDynamic Write acceleration delivers faster saves and file transfers
19. Seagate Expansion Portable 2TB External Hard Drive HDD – USB 3.0 for PC Laptop (STEA2000400)
Easily store and access 2TB of content on the go with Seagate Expansion Portable hard driveThis external hard drive for Windows computers makes backup a snap—just drag-and-drop.To get set up, connect the portable hard drive to your Windows computer for automatic recognition—no software requiredT...
20. (Old Model) Seagate 1TB Desktop HDD Sata 6Gb/s 64MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive (ST1000DM003)
Ideal for everyday desktop and computing storage1TB capacity stores 120 HD video, or 200,000 photos, or 250,000 songs7200 RPMStore data faster with SATA 6GB/s interface2 year warranty; 64MB cache
Samsung 860 EVO 1 TB is $127 on Amazon now
Edit: Link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5xH-BbMMK4E5A
Glad that the update is coming tomorrow. Still no folders option, but looking forward to these features:
>Info: Supported by nearly all of your PS4 games, you can jump in and out of your games with just the press of the PS button. Quickly switch from Rest Mode to powered-up so you can pick up where you left off.
Back-up and restore HDD to USB
>Info: Back-up and restore your hard disc drive data associated with users on your PS4, including settings, saved data, screenshots and video clips as well as games, patches and download data, to and from an external USB drive.
Good that I waited with updating my HDD, with our slow network connection it would have taken ages to re-download all my games.
For those upgrading their PS4: (NOT up-to-date with the new backup feature)
Edit: I will upgrade my PS4 with the Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB tomorrow. I could do a how-to guide if there is interest in it.
Edit2: A how-to guide is in the making and should be published on 27 March.
Same here. The SSD helped immensely.
Shaders preview immediately.
Load times drastically reduced. There are times when I've loaded into the tower, emptied my post master, and collected my loot -- all before my clan mates even load in.
Very few if any loads between areas (blind well / dreaming city) -- same deal, I'll be sparrowing along with some buds, we pass through a loading zone and suddenly I'm alone because they're all stuck in mid air loading the zone.
Well worth the ~$80 USD for the SSD.
EDIT: Since a lot of folks are asking -- I bought a Samsung EVO 860 250GB, which is currently for sale on Amazon for $58 (nearly $20 less than I paid), and paired it with a $10 Amazon Basics Hard Drive Enclosure.
I'm using an OG XB1 FWIW.
>5% off an SSD
It's not exactly Black Weekend, but I got 35% of an 1TB Evo 860 last week and the sale is still going (it's on BestBuy and Amazon, Amazon is a few bucks cheaper somehow) - that's roughly $130.
Congratulations! It looks like you just found a nice computer! It appears you're missing a hard drive/solid state drive, SATA cable, and operating system.
To begin, you'll want to get an unused hard drive or solid state drive. These can be found on Amazon, Newegg, or in Bestbuy (among other places). I'll supply links to a few examples below. After you've made you're selection, you'll need a SATA cable. This cable allows you to hook the drive up to your motherboard. The last step is to install Windows. All in all, it's a very simple process albeit a bit time consuming (primarily for the Windows installation).
This is a very simple explanation of an also relatively simple installation/resolution. If you'd like more detailed instructions, I'd be happy to help!
Hard Drive Example
Solid State Drive Example
Operating System (Windows 10)
Ubuntu is also a FREE operating system that is compatible with your hardware. Most users are experienced with Windows, which is why I listed it. Personally, I prefer Windows over Ubuntu.
Best way I have found to look at the upcoming sales. Picked out a few hopefuls.
NZXT 850 - 3:15 am est
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - 7:30 am est
Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3200 - 9:55 am est
ViewSonic XG2401 24 Inch 1080p 1ms 144 Hz - 10:10 am est
NZXT AER RGB 2 - 3-Pack of 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Hue 2 Lighting Controller - 11:55 am est
XPG Spectrix D80 Liquid-Cooled RGB DDR4 3600MHz 16GB - 12:05 pm est
Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler - 12:05 pm
NZXT H700 - 2:20pm est
Not sure how fast will an external HDD work but I'd recommend the best value for money upgrade which is Seagate's FireCuda 2TB SSHD that was released just a few months ago. Not only you get a huge storage boost, you also get better loading times. I swear my Witcher 3 loads now take 20-30 seconds less
Digital Foundry review
UK link I got it for £99, it is now being sold for £120 the price fluctuates according to orders I think
US link cheaper than in the UK
I just did a quick search and a 500GB Samsung SSD is only $80 right now.
I copied someone else's comment
Go to Amazon and get one of the following:
Or you can spend $15 more and get twice the storage:
These are all 7200 RPM drives and are from a reputable source.
Edit: Changed 2TB WD to Black, which is 7200 RPM
Samsung 860 EVO 500GB
Nope. Because I'm bored:
Thing | Cost | Link
27" 5K Monitor (though IMO the difference between 4K and 5K is marginal and not worth the extra grand) | $1489 | https://www.amazon.com/LG-27MD5KB-B-UltraFine-Brightness-Thunderbolt-x/dp/B0778Z8G5K
1TB SSD | $162.99 | https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
Intel Xeon W (note: faster than Mac's) | $1189 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6ZP7AC0245
Motherboard | $293 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132991
32GB RAM | $245 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16820231967
PSU | $104 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2F86WV9693
Vega 56 | $410 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814930006
Pretty Case | $189 | https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133359
Total Cost: $4,082
Edit: forgot Vega 56
Any brand will do in PS4 because PS4 OS is not optimized for SSD. (xbox is different, I think you will get better speeds from better drives) However, one of the best ones is on sale for only $57 today: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-Internal-MZ-76E250B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537193972&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=250gb+ssd
That's actually an internal drive, so you'd still need to buy an external enclosure to put it in, this is the one I bought (it comes with a USB cable so no need to buy that separately):
The installation is easy. If you've ever put a Nintendo cartridge into a Nintendo then you have the skills necessary to install the drive into the enclosure. After that, plug in the cable, and google where in the ps4 menu to format the drive as external storage (I forget off the top of my head). Then, highlight Destiny 2 on ps4, press "Options", then select move to external storage. It took about 15 mintues for me. Then it was all ready!
I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757226&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757356&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758834&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759484&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759635&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499808109&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499804815&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499766067&amp;sr=8-4&amp;th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart
Bluetooth misc| Price
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499800448&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499803431&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26
CPU Coolers| Price
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757440&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499756838&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499766384&amp;sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499757999&amp;sr=1-11&amp;keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499759891&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499813131&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758359&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499758359&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&amp;psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499767750&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)
Input Devices| Price
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499761901&amp;sr=1-21&amp;keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499770080&amp;) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760240&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760450&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760948&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499760799&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499762804&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&amp;psr=PDAY&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499803529&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125
I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.
EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!
EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal
EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**
$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black
$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black
$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel
$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3
$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN
$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA
$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync
$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA
$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months
$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless
$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X
$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X
$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch
$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB
$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB
$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA
$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD
$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD
$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD
$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD
$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White
$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN
$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD
$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray
$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months
$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months
$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime
$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime
$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB
$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard
$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA
$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU
$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW
$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse
$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse
$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse
$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor
$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor
$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months
$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch
$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX
$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL
$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth
$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard
$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch
$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)
$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh
$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh
$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh
$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)
Looks good, I'd just swap out that HDD for this 1TB for only $14 more. Still within OP's budget. Can't go wrong with Caviar Blue
SSDs are super cheap these days. And M.2 SSDS (PCIE) are like 4-8x faster than SSD :O 500gb for $150 USD? While normal SSD is 70 ish.
Edit: M.2 - https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01M20VBU7/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550751896&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=m.2&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
Regular SSD - https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550751937&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=ssd&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027459011
Since you got a brand new PS4 buy a 2TB now and swap out the original. It will save you time and headaches later.
It’s only $64 and works perfectly internal or you could use it external with usb
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, Black + 2mo Adobe CC Photography (STDR2000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTSK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_M5qSBbPXSKZ11
Same price on Amazon with Prime shipping (if you're into that kind of thing).
>He wanted a fresh install
My default maneuver here is to just replace the drive so there's an intact and ready rollback that takes no time at all, especially because HDDs are so cheap anymore that a decently sized drive could be purchased on Amazon for [$50 with one day shipping], and [several other] drives are available in a similar price bracket with the same shipping.
Saves a shitload of time, especially when it's just that one thing you missed in your backup and it's easy to transfer.
This ain't it chief...
Was <$100 a few days ago HERE...$100 or less for 1TB or no deal -- at this price, might as well go for the Evo 860 or MX500 🤔
I saw this after buying another ssd a few hours ago. They are actually pretty cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541347208&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=860+evo
Heads up. Same price on amazon with better return policy.
Also looks like it is QLC if that matters to you.
If you're interested the 1TB is only the cost of 2 of these + $7 on amazon.
If we assume that karma is stored in an int32_t (so a maximum of 2,147,483,647 karma per post) the karma value of one post would be stored in 32 bits or 4 bytes. Keep in mind that it wouldn't be relevant if the post gets 2 or 2 million karma, it would always take the same amount of space. So the only thing that matters to get a ton of karma is the amount of posts you make.
If we take a 1TB WD Blue hard drive (like this one) which weighs 1.61lbs (or ~0.73kg) according to Amazon, we have to get 1,000/0.73 = ~1,370 hard drives.
If we further assume that only karma values are stored on it and we can use the full space of the drive (10^12 bytes), we have ~2.510^11 (or 250 billion) post we can store per drive.
So to get a ton of karma you have to make 2.5 * 10^11 * 1370 = 3.425 10^14 (or 342.5 trillion) posts.
EDIT: If we take larger (which you can find in servers) or lighter (for example SSDs) hard drives you'd have to make even more posts.
500GB SSD, $50 off.
Better than flash drives, doesn't overheat. Very small form factor (a bit more square than a credit card).
Samsung T5 Portable SSD - 500GB - USB 3.1 External SSD (MU-PA500B/AM), Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GZBT36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZWolDb3KPTTTN
Am I missing something or is this the same price on amazon?
Here you can get the 250g on Amazon for $109 compared to Neweggs $149. You still get the game free with this deal also. Picked this up yesterday and just gotta wait for the email code
Same price on Amazon
CamelCamelCamel │ Keepa
Rook no further, PriceKnight is here!
^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fb8lkn0%2Fssd_crucial_1tb_nvme_fast_20001700readwrite%2Fejyhfhw%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
1050 TI mini 11,200
Ryzen 1200 8,175
8 GB 2400Hz RAM 5700
1TB HDD 3,500
Corsair CX 550W 4,855
ASUS B350 6,960
Monitor: Dell s2216h 8,500
[Case: Tesseract SW] (https://www.mdcomputers.in/cabinet/deepcool-mid-tower-tesseract-sw.html) 3,363
Typical Keyboard and Mouse 850
Total = 53,103
Some games with this CPU and VC combo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EK_ktjGHyeg
Any questions? Feel free to ask.
Keep the questions coming, and don't cheap out on PSU.
Yup. That still doesn't discount that you are comparing a sales price to an MSRP. Factually, the 860 EVO didn't even last a month at MSRP before it was discounted 12% on amazon.com. Why would this be any different?
This is what I bought. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRHTSK4
I took it apart as it's the only way to get this specific hard drive at the moment. The hard drive is the Samsung Spinpoint M9T. A few users have issues booting up their ps4 from being completely off even thought it boots up fine from standby.
I have no issues at all.
Same price as the 2TB by Seagate. Might as well get the extra terabyte!
Edit: disregard what I said earlier, the price has increased to $74.99. It's still less than the $99.99 original price but it's a bit disappointing nonetheless.
> Tell that to the 26GB repo of a Unity game I cloned with the complete history.
It would cost you $1.20 to store that repository locally.
Must be, as they are literally $50
Get the version without the Xbox branding for $10 less
NVMe is MUCH faster than Sata SSD. Is that what you're asking?
M.2 is the connection but there are two types of drives that use this port.
One is SATA ssd (6gbs) which is the same speed as a typical 2.5 sata ssd.
But the NVMe (32gbs) is many times faster than that. (It uses PCI bandwidth instead of sata which is part of the reason its so fast.)
Its noticeably faster if you're doing content creation like editing and such. And while it is slightly noticeable in game load times and day-to-day PC use, most people don't feel the extra $$ is worth the upgrade to NVMe. (I am not one of those people lol. I like speeeeeed)
Zotac 2080 $804.99: https://www.amazon.ca/Graphics-IceStorm-Backplate-Lighting-ZT-T20800G-10P/dp/B07K9SCJRK/
Crucial P1 1TB NVMe (I believe it's QLC) $105.99: https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/
Crucial 1TB NVMe - $105.99 at checkout
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD: $105.99
Amazon has a wonderful case-thing with cables, and Samsung sells a nice compact 2.5" SSD that can go as low as 250GB, and as high as 4TB. I bought the 250GB one with the case-thing and only paid about $72 total. Both can be bought through Amazon, and are both under Prime shipping if you have it, so your SSD will be here and ready in no time at all. I highly recommend it if you are a heavy Destiny player.
Here is a link to the Samsung SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_d16PBbSQX6SEE
Here is a link to the Amazon case: AmazonBasics 2.5-inches SATA Hard Drive Enclosure - USB 3.0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5RLG2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_L16PBbHF62J8E
Unless you need the small form factor, this should perform identical to the cheaper 2.5in SATA drives.
I would do the following to be sure your laptop will last you several years:
Aside from that, I would also recommend replacing your slow 1TB HDD with a 2.5" SSD. I own a Y740 myself, and I replaced the HDD with this following this guide
Here's a direct link: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ I'm not a fan of random websites in between.
Price is 50$ regularly on Amazon so looking at this (70$-20$-5$), this is not really that big deal.
Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fh60AbJWDSR66
$129 warehouse deal...which is usually new/return.
You have to do a lot better than 125 for used ones
Picked up a 2TB a few weeks back for $99
Very easy to remove the Samsung HDD from the case and pop into the PS4
ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q 27 inch gsync IPS 2k monitor for 450 plus tax 4 left: https://www.amazon.com/PG279Q-2560x1440-G-SYNC-Gaming-Monitor/dp/B017EVR2VM/ref=sr_1_2?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;s=warehouse-deals&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542641106&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=gsync
Dead- Samsung evo 860- 59 plus tax https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_cc_1?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&amp;s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542641251&amp;sr=8-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=evo+860
This is the link for amazon
Seagate Expansion 2TB USB 3.0 Portable 2.5 inch External Hard Drive https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_pZtzybQD3EF66
Snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN, Squid, ClamAV, Default deny ingress/egress FW, etc.
ZOTAC ZBOX NUC
Kingston 120GB SSD
Crucial 8GB DDR3L RAM
Skull Canyon NUC
32GB DDR4 RAM
Samsung 950 Pro 512GB M.2 SSD
Virtual Machines I'm currently running.
Splunk - Receives my FW, DNS, Snort, and OSSEC logs. I have dashboards to filter this data.
Snorby - Also receives my Snort logs. I like this a little better than Splunk as I can view packet contents.
OSSEC - I used this for file integrity and endpoint monitoring on my servers and desktop. Functions as a host based IDS.
Nessus - I use this every once in a while to see if there are any open holes. Otherwise, I just use nmap and iptables to close everything off.
Unifi Controller - for managing my AP.
Ubiquiti Unifi AP-AC Lite
TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit L2 Switch
RetroPi + Monitor:
10.1 Inch IPS HDMI Monitor
My VMs, configs, and files are backed up to a HDD I keep offline. I'm thinking about adding a NAS into the mix for somewhere around 200-400 dollars. Low energy consumption preferably if anyone had any recommendations. :)
CPU: Intel Pentium G4560 7th Gen - 4.65k
GPU: Zotac GTX 1050 Ti 4GB - 11.7k Buy Zotac only because you get 5years warranty by registering online for free.
MOTHERBOARD : Gigabyte H110 BIOS Updated - 4.46k
RAM: Crucial 8GB 2133MHz DDR4 - 4.1k
HDD: WD 1TB Blue - 3.6k
SMPS: Antec BP450 450W - 1.89k
CABINET: 2.3k (Circle CC 819)
If your budget is strictly 30K, or if you are using a 720p monitor instead of 1080p, then go for Zotac GTX 1050 mini 2GB - 9.3k
NEW TOTAL: 30.3K
I think that this is DEFINITELY the best build under 30K.
> Problem 1: blockchain becomes 1 tb in 1 year
Where is that stat from? What size of consistently large blocks are creating a 1 tb yearly chain increase? What would the value of the fees and blocks of that size be? What would the value of 1 BCH be at the point where blocks are at that level?
> Problem 2: internet sucks!
How do you rectify the idea that users are supposed to be running a full node, but not mobile (spv) wallet to do most commerce unless you are home all the time? The very idea that everyone in the world should be running a full node is just silly. How many people do you know that can not even be bothered to back up their photos from their phone? The vast majority of people in the world will never run a full node. However anyone that wants to will still be able to. 1tb a year is not an expensive ($47 and cheaper every year) addition to securing your own finances. Running a full node and then expecting the average person to use the rube goldberg machine of lightning for "cash" transactions at the same time vs the simplicity of reasonable block size increases that follow value, volume and demand is a losing proposition. Nature prefers simplicity.
It's also 49.99 on Amazon - if you have prime for the 2 day shipping.
EDIT: It's no longer $49.99 (~6 hours later) :(. Please disregard this link.
>storage capacity would go up in multiples of 8
It's not always advertised like that though. You can get 250GB or 500GB SSDs. But yes, typically with flash cards and USB drives, it's multiples of 8.
I'd also have to recommend the Samsung 840 Evo. I got a 250gb one for around $110 on sale back in march, and it's amazing.
They're still around $120 but it's totally worth it. I'd also recommend this size in particular. 120 is too small and the others are too expensive.
Transferring Windows over was a huge pain, but once it was done and I restarted, it was totally worth it. If you do a clean install it's way quicker. Seeing your pc boot to an instantly usable desktop in less than 10 seconds is totally worth it. Also putting steam on it was awesome.
I've been able to quit a cs:go competitive match, restart my computer, open steam, and rejoin the game well within the 3 minute window before you get penalized for leaving.
tl:dr get one
That's not remotely comparable in price since it's 1/4 the size. Luckily this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGF54XR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 is one sale for $100 pretty often so your point is still mostly valid.
Samsung T5 Portable SSD - 500GB - USB 3.1 External SSD (MU-PA500B/AM), Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GZBT36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iH9oDbTNABKDA
500gb ssd card from Samsung that is just about the size of a credit card but thicker. Used it for a month and it is running strong and nowhere near full.
Bought this Samsung 2TB HDD last week, took about 2 days to finish re-downloading all my games (plus some that I deleted to make more space). Works great!
There is this, which is only $70 for 2 TB of space.
Good price for a great replacement/upgrade! SSHD too! Not sure if it's been any lower. And newegg doesn't charge tax in most states.
If you don't want a SSHD or want to save $15, the seagate 2TB barracuda is also a good option.
Or if you're really concerned about the price, you can get the seagate 2TB slim plus for $80. Note, however, this one is in a case and you would need to crack it (voids waranty) and takes a bit more work than the above two options. But it's a very common option for upgrades.
Literally any 2.5" SATA drive would work-- HDD, SSD, or SSHD of any brand.
Unless you actually need that 1TB of space at that cheap of a price, definitely get an SSD instead. 500GB for <$90 is a steal for the performance difference.
Also, while you're in there... I'd suggest taking the below preventative measure for your SATA cable while you're at it. The 2009-2012 models are bad about cables failing from the bends and/or the ribbon shorting out against the chassis, and replacing drives/moving this cable seems to make it way more temperamental no matter how careful you are.
> the 850 Pro doesn't seem to be worth the extra cost.
It's not, the 850 EVO is worth it though. Expensive, but it has a right to be, pretty much the best 2.5" SSD on the market. A cheaper alternative would be this:
Oh, and the 750GB version is on your budget. If you think you need more than 500GB, that's up to you to consider:
If you want New + quiet, this is similar to my setup:
Lenovo TS140 - Amazon $219
4GB of additional RAM - amazon $59.99
2x1TB Seagate $107.36
Perc 5/i w/ 256MB Cache - eBay $12.99
total: 399.34 + you have extra to get more drives and/or RAM.
I have 12GB of RAM + 4x1TB WD
BlacksRE4s in a RAID10
I run Plex, a "Content Acquisition Server", a SAMBA file server and a 2012R2 VM to play with using 12GB of the RAM. 4 of which are going to the 2012R2 VM and I still have plenty of processing left. I would add another 4 GB of RAM and get another drive or two. :)
Now for my opinion, if your new and have a very limited understanding of how to do the swap do the good or better, those packages give you everything you need for the swap and have excellent customer service/technical help hotline. IF you can figure out how to do it and your have a spare usb laying around, and don't need to re-purpose your stock ps4 hard drive go with the best! Highly recommend the SSHD.
check out the video at the end of the pictures.
Same price on Amazon.
> endlessly bloating the blockchain
What are you talking about?
have you looked at the cost of an 8TB HD lately, its $180.
Even with 32MB blocks (that's about the equivalent in transaction velocity to warrant a BTC price of close to $1,000,000 you wont fill it up in 5 years.
we only have demand for about 1.3MB at the moment but knowing that its not cost prohibitive to store 32MB blocks and that 5 years into the future storage is going to be a lot cheaper
Are you sure you want to be responsible for limit bitcoin growth?
Looks like Amazon is matching it currently also.
This is the one he linked but for the US I think, but the one that you linked would work as well. And you have to replace the internal drive which is EXTREMELY easy to do. Here's a video that can guide you through it if you decided to do it.
Not the 3.5" Desktop version, but still a great price. Also on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-FireCuda-Gaming-2-5-Inch-ST2000LX001/dp/B01M1NHCZT/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511565116&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=firecuda
Seagate FireCuda Gaming SSHD 2TB SATA 6.0Gb/s 2.5-Inch Notebooks / Laptops Internal Hard Drive (ST2000LX001) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1NHCZT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I0gyybR2NRFZE
This one? I'm thinking of buying this one (currently on stock 500gb) for regular PS4. Big upgrade?
Nice price for a 240GB SSD: Kingston A400 240G
₹3199 (₹2880 after the 10% ICICI Discount). I see /r/india mentioned onlyssd.com a few times for the lowest SSD prices, but this offer seems to be better than the lowest price there (and also too lazy to enter details on new site).
Or 120GB SSD @ ₹1700: WD 120G
Your budget is generous not "cheap" so with the goal of $1000 plex server here is what I would do...
EDIT: THIS WON'T TRANSCODE 4k... however thats ok because 4K transcoded are washed out... use high bitrate 1080P looks just as good if sitting 4' or further away.. if you want 4k for the HDR then use a player that can play 4k hdr(almost any tv does now.. i have a $600 65" TV that does it just fine)
Total of $924 for a system than can transcode 4x 1080P with ease and store 24TB of Parity protected Datam if you want 4k then just make sure your player can play it natively(which this system could with a video card in a VM)
If you wanted rack mounted then this is a well priced case... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07957B2VF/ref=twister_B079C7QGNY?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
If you want to be able to play from the Server then still use Unraid and make a VM with windows or a Linux plex OS and pass through a PCI-E Video card of some sort to the VM.
Of course since its unraid you can now easily run the Plex Server, Sabnzbd, sonaar,radaar and all the other goodies you need to automate your system for the ultimate watching experience as unraid has a great docker experience.
This is entirely incorrect.
i7-4770 CPU, 16GB RAM, 400W PSU (Tower for $283 w/ haggle option)
EVGA GTX 1060 6GB ($180)
Kingston A400 120GB SSD ($29)
The i7-4770 pretty much matches the i5-7500 in individual core performance, but it also has hyperthreading.
16GB of RAM so you should be able to play just about anything comfortably.
Lower power draw on the GTX 1060 6GB. I would choose EVGA first owner with a box for transferable warranty.
Also, just buying from Ebay protects you for a month.
And yeah, I've done this before. Works perfectly. It won't light up your room, but it'll put the pixels on the screen better.
I would not upgrade with an SSD. I'd use a hybrid drive, like one of these:
It will not cost more than 15K rest of the money can be spent for Monitor or other accessories including mouse and keyboard.
If you don't know how to build just visit a local shop and provide him parts list to assemble your Desktop.
The new hard drive won't have the system software installed, so you will need to follow Sony's instructions on how to copy that over to a USB drive so the system will recognize it, and be able to install it.
If you need the video for comfort, just search youtube for something like "swap ps4 hard drive." But Sony's instructions are actually really well done for this, and in a nutshell:
-Slide off the left top cover
-Take out the one screw that has the PS geometry symbols on it
-Slide out the hard drive bay
-Unscrew the hard drive mounting screws on either side
-Slide your hard drive in (that's what she said) and reverse the process
If you buy drives that are 2.5", they'll fit right in, but are more expensive the bigger they get in storage capacity. If you buy the Nyko hard drive bay it allows you to install 3.5" drives which can also go much bigger for less money, but it also adds some bulk to your PS4 (search for it and see pictures.)
Note that you have the options of installing either an HDD, SSHD, or an SSD. What's the difference? SSHDs and SSDs are faster, with SSDs being the fastest and you can get them in varying sizes and qualities (the speed differences between them can be significant as well.)
However, for the PS4 right now, only up to SATA 2 is supported (who the fuck knows why) so you can't really make amazing speeds happen anyway, thus an SSD is pointless. Someone did that research back when the PS4 was released, and an SSHD actually is a happy medium of not being stupidly expensive for not gaining much performance. Stick an SSD into your computer where it will do some angelic work.
I got this: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Gaming-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LM014/dp/B00B99JUBQ?th=1
back when I first got my PS4 and I still use it to this day.
If you want more space and don't want to spend too much but also stay within the 2.5" realm as what fits standard in the PS4, you can search Amazon and other places but finding a 7200rpm drive in the 2.5" space is annoying.
You can go up to the 3.5" size, but again, that requires the Nyko accessory, so you've got your pros/cons there.
Message if you need more help.
Decent drive but a QVO not EVO which is much faster and be had at Amazon for $139 now if want a faster drive.
If your having problems with flash drive corruption, why not use a more reliable storage medium? Like an external SSD
It is also 55 CAD on Amazon
Stop driving yourself crazy and just shell out 29 bucks for a new SSD.
And image the 60 GB drive, and put it on the new one.
20 years. - 144mb per day = 1GB per or week = 50GB per year.
One of these will hold full 1mb blocks for 160 YEARS!!. for $200
Miners are spending 10's of millions on hardware and we are worried about centralisation from blocksize
If you're using it for storage and not editing, you probably won't notice a difference between an SSD and HDD, and you'll probably be better off with just a mechanical drive to save large amounts of data. I would recommend getting a USB 3 external hard drive to maximize compatibility. The 8TB Seagate version is actually a really good deal right now, at less than $0.02/GB.
Now if you want to edit DIRECTLY from the external drive, you're better off with an external SSD like this. You'll pay a lot more for that performance, at more like $0.35/GB, so give some thought to how you'll be using it.
Everyone has their opinions about what hard drive lasts the longest and is the best quality, but honestly they're all very similar these days. The fact of the matter is any drive from any company can fail at any time, and you need to have backups to protect against that.
I bought a 2TB external HDD and cracked the case open. I removed my old 500Gb and put it into the case so I ended up with a 2Tb PS4 and a 500Gb backup drive for anything else.
I have a 2tb external. 77 games and 36 apps installed and still 970GB remaining. I'd honestly say any bigger would be a waste of money. I have so many games installed now that I simply can't even attempt to play them all. I'm in progress of AC syndicate, Fallout 4, GTA 5, Dishonoured and about 10 other games. And even that's /only the surface/. When I eventually fill the thing up, I'll have so many games installed that I could probably just keep games on rotation. Uninstalling and reinstalling as and when I want to play them.
EDIT: Here's the drive I bought. Its a Seagate drive identically functional to the one that Seagate make for the xbox one, without all the xbox branding (so its cheaper for some reason?).
I didn't know you could do that!
Send it to me, please!
Oh wait, it's not mine!
PS: looks like you may need to replace SSD cable when you upgrade:
Recommend the Crucial or a Samsung 2.5:
You don't need the Samsung pro.
This is very cheap compared to what it cost last year:
OK just to be certain, this is the same SSD as featured here correct?
Is the HOLIDAY18 a one-time use promo?
You can get a generic 120GB SSD for $21. That's objectively cheap. It's not big or fast as SSDs go, but it's a hell of a lot better as a boot drive than any rusty platter.
And you can step up to a legitimately-good name brand for not much more. Samsung sells their previous-gen evos for peanuts. $56 for a 250GB drive that is actually decent might not be impulse-purchase territory for everybody, but it's cheaper than a single AAA game.
Could've just posted the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/
If you consider lowering the price on the SSD as well as selling it as a normal SSD, I would consider buying it. Having Windows on a SSD shouldn't really increase its value, in my opinion. Windows Keys are tied to the motherboard, not the drive it lives on. Windows as a software is technically free.
Just for reference, a brand new Kingston 128B SSD on Amazon goes for $22 dollars.
Seagate FireCuda 2TB (ST2000LX001)
I'm currently using this drive and have no issues whatsoever!
So does a SSD have any effect at all on a standard PS4? I've had one on my wishlist for a while, under the impression that it did.
I got this guy (1 TB, 5400 RPM):
I've been quite happy with it. Seems like I when I was researching the general consensus was to get a 5400 RPM. Slower speeds = cooler and the faster speeds did not make a big difference (from what I recall)
This is how it breaks down from parts from ebay. Includes shipping. I'll even include links
Base Desktop - $50
Intel Core 2 Quad Q9550 -$30
EVGA 600W 80+ Bronze PSU -$50
16GB DDR2 - $20
WD Blue 1TB - $45
Sandisk 240GB SSD - $40
MSI Twin Froze GTX 770 - $83
Windows 10 Pro License -$7.50 since its so valuable to you. Also its 2018, be real. No one buys full keys or they buy them off eBay. Yes I know they are not legit but once again 2018 no one cares.
Even comes with a spare CPU, drive, and 8GB DDR2. Also, you could probably buy most of these parts for less. These were pulled from quick ebay searches. For example, the PSU could be closer to $20 in reality, the card would be closer to $70 and the drive would be around $25 for the HDD and $35 for ssd. That would be $257.50. Still could probably get lower than that. Get real with your prices.
Or just buy larger hard drives to store their copy of the block chain.
My home internet connection could easily tolerate a significant block size increase.
The block chain stands at a whopping 91GB however for ~$50 I can buy a device that can hold that ten times over.
additionally the fee does not have to be large, by increasing the block size (which was satoshis intention from the start) the miners would be able to accept transactions with a much smaller fee attached to them as there would be no competition for block space.
I don't get the centralization argument at all. Nobody is talking about TB sized blocks and if we ever get to a point where they are, 1Pbps connections will exist.
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 for $79.99
Link. The voucher is for 14%, and is applied directly under the price just by ticking the voucher box. Total is £101.47, which is worth it as it's a much faster drive.
This comes out at 99.98 after the voucher is applied, has a high end controller and toshiba TLC memory. Runs ~same speed as samsung 970 evo.
Ofertas previas al viernes afro:
Ignore the P1 it's QLC there is no reason to get QLC now that the TLC drives have come down in price substantially.
You can get the sabrent rocket 1tb with the coupon for $150 NO TAX
I would like to support this build, it is very well made. Just one change i would make to it, go for this ssd. It has better performance that the Intel and its at the same price.
The MX500 SSD is a SATA based SSD which maxes out at ~560MB/s, this one is NVME based and maxes out at 1800MB/s.
You can see the 1TB MX500 and 1TB 660p compared in this review.
If you want something faster then you may want to look at Phison E12 based SSDs which start at ~$110. Anything past that such as the Samsung 970 EVO starts getting way too expensive with a 500GB drive costing about the same as this 1TB 660p.
The Corsair Sabrent Rocket, Corsair MP510, Silicon Power P34A80, and a few others are all E12 based SSDs and will all perform about the same.
(1) 1TB SSD on sale https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R8hlDbCSXN69G for $130. The days of having to compromise and have an OS SSD and everything else on old-school HDDs is over at this pricepoint.
(2) Get the Ryzen 5 3600. Its so much better and I've seen it for $260ish which isn't much more for a +10-20% performance on a much more efficient 7nm fab.
(3) If you can afford it, I'd get the 2060 Super or wait for the 5700/5700XT to come out with a non-blower based cooling option. You're looking at $500ish for a graphic card, but the 1660Ti is a lot of money for a card that already feels eclipsed by more recent releases.
This or the Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R8hlDbCSXN69G for $106? This would be for OS + games, or...I could maybe keep my 256GB SSD for OS and use this 1TB for games.
External drive that can be taken apart for a 2TB drive. This is the Samsung Spinpoint drive that is frequently mentioned for PS4 hard drive upgrades.
See reviews at amazon or success story on r/PS4. Hard drive upgrade guide can be found here.
People like you are part of what's wrong with the gaming community. Sure, he probably could've searched better, but it's still someone asking for help. Clearly giving him the correct answer wouldn't be wasting your time since you waste your time writing a stupid fucking sarcastic response.
OP: get this one. It's what I have in my PS4 and it's only $70. Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive with Mobile Device Backup USB 3.0, Black (STDR2000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTSK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WWDmybFDF28WF
Currently this is one of the most used 2TB drive.
Also, you can get this one and remove the hard from inside. There are many videos on YouTube.
If you're looking to install bigger sizes (4TB+) that has 7200 rpm, get Nyko Data Bank, it allows you to install 3.5 inch hard drives which basically have 7200 rpm.
EDIT: I'm mistaken. There's a 1TB Drive that rotates 7200 and more. Thanks /u/dano8801 and /u/IPurpleIDrank for correcting me :)
Here’s the one that I use. It’s on sale now as well.
I bought this for my PS4 last week, works great. You can either remove the case and use it as an internal or just plug it in as additional storage, I used it as internal it's a little thinner than the standard PS4 hard drive but you screw it in so no issues.
Would strongly recommend a 250gb drive as space on a 128gb drives goes extremely quickly
This drive would be great.
tfw a post like this is on my frontpage right next to a post for a 256GB SSD for 140$.
Why are they so expensive now.... If I could buy another 1 TB SSD for 90$, I'd be so happy.
Also: a similar deal on amazon atm
Click Used & New at the bottom of the price
Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DVkbBbMS4EDBX
2TB for $100, standard HDD 5400rpm
> Having to constantly delete games has become a pain I want to avoid.
How badly do you want to avoid that? For $80 you can upgrade your PS4 to a 2TB internal hard drive following this tutorial. I feel that's definitely worth $80.
Here ya go
Buy a new hard drive
I bought a Kingston SATA 250GB SSD with a SATA to USB adapter. Works great.
Kingston 240GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/240G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5IB20Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EmsMDb8GY84MZ
This is $32 for a 240gb external SSD. i think it is worth having for such a little cost. No idea where you are getting $100-200, as that’s what I paid for my 250gb SSD back in 2013. Then you dont ever also have to worry about slow write speeds or emptying it every month or so
woot ordering, how does this one look? ty for input everyone
Ah. And a good question none the less. No it doesn't. Which I didn't even know about. So I actually just went ahead and cancelled my eBay order and ordered it on Amazon for $109.99 and got far cry 4, which steam has listed at $59.99 all for $109.99 with free shipping.
The far cry 4 deal only applies to Samsung 840 EVO 250 GB and above I believe. After ctrl + f for far cry, it comes up on specials and promotions for the 250 but not the smaller one.
Link for those who are lazy: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417413707&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=samsung+evo+840
The Samsung 840 EVO provides good capacity, reliability and speed for the money. At $140 for 256GB of storage, it also fits into your budget while supporting SATA III.
Seems like WD's slashed prices on their Blue desktop hard drive line, at least on Amazon. Was personally following the 3 TB for a while but here's some other drive info, going off of Camel^3:
> Safe to say I blew it out the water in terms of value.
To be fair, not really, you got the case and HDD for free + 4GB less RAM
Motherboard looks like a Gigabyte
GA-78LMT-USB3 + £8
Cheapest 8GB 1333 Mhz I could find: Geil Enhance Corsa + £15
HDD: WD Blue 1 TB + £50
PSU: Corsair VS450 - about the same price, couldn't find one.
Case: Aerocool X-Warrior + £50
Videocard looks like it's got some custom cooling solution on there, so maybe + £5
£222 + £128 = £350 + 3 "free" games
Doesn't seem THAT bad. And apparently the system was £372 at some point. Although not crystal clear if it's a 6300 or a 6100 in there, even so, not much price difference.
Edit: It's actually a FX-6100, but the whole thing is only £360 on their website. However, it also includes a Wi-Fi adapter and a DVD-RW drive, so definitely a fair deal price-wise.
[bear in mind, this is long winded mostly cuz i'm trying to explain the reasoning for what i'm suggesting rather than just throwing parts at you]
well for that much you're not gonna get a whole lot of power, /r/buildapc (also useful as a source to help with costing the build) has a handful of useful tools (in the form of links on the sidebar) for determining what parts match what other components (though most components have universal designs and so all fit the same slots).
that said, the cpu should be the first thing you decide on (also the one thing you should not skimp on), then the motherboard with the same socket as the motherboard in the desired size. it will have a specified label you can type in, ie mine is an lga1150 cpu and the motherboard is the same, but the actual cpu itself is an i5 quad core thingy which shares that lga specification with a handful of other grades of cpu. it also is a bit biased to say but i would suggest going intel over amd, if only because the pins will be on the motherboard instead of the cpu and since the cpu is decidedly far more expensive than any motherboard you would get for it, it's better to have the easily bent pins on the motherboard in case something goes wrong. the aforementioned cpu has yet to be forced to meet the needs of the two gpu i have so something below i5 will probably work for your intents. (you'll also want to get cooling for it eventually, the stock fans work but are pretty bad)
once you decide on the cpu, you need to decide what size tower you want (there's a few, though micro atx and atx are the two i'm familiar with. this will define what size motherboard you would get. depending on how you want to go with the computer in the future, you may want smaller or larger. if you would eventually put more money into the computer to boost its power via SLI or crossfire (meaning, running two of the same graphics cards at the same time with a wire "bridge" between them), then atx would be a solid choice. i would not suggest going that route if you can help it as cooling the top gpu can be a bit of a pain (though they sell hybrid gpu which have liquid cooling pre-installed that mitigates that issue) along with multiple games not supporting that functionality and not using it anyway (overwatch is one that does support it, for whatever that's worth) however, the power you can get out of them is better for the price and doesn't require a huge immediate investment (ie, can buy the second card later, doubling your power). however, if you don't mind upgrading and replacing the gpu as needed, then micro atx is fine, too. (bear in mind, you can do sli in micro atx but they will be seriously cramped and you won't have any room for any other pci slotted device like an audio processing unit or a wireless card). my personal recommendation would be to go for the atx size and try sli/crossfire out once you could afford the second graphics card.
once you've got the size of the computer, go find a motherboard which can socket the cpu you chose (amazon/newegg are good choices for shopping for these, new or used, btw) and then a tower/case of the appropriate size (if you're interested in liquid cooling, look for towers with grates on the top and sides. corsair does a pretty good set of these but they're also kindof expensive. easy as pie to work on, though). after that, go find some ram (i would suggest 8gb at least) which match or are lower than the motherboard's specifications (ddr3 is pretty common atm, but ddr4 is better if you can afford it. ddr3 is probably best to go for for price and availability.)
gpu! the funny little powerhouses that make graphics run really well. you don't strictly speaking need one to run a game, but i would highly encourage one (even if it's a basic little bitch like this $20 one as onboard graphics of most motherboards are only good enough to run basically low res video. these are the filling to the sandwich and can be added and removed with relative ease (also one of the components with universal specs so any graphics card will fit in any motherboard, more or less). both the cpu and the gpu are going to be where you're spending most of your money along with your monitor and operating system coming in close behind. that said, with the 10 series of nvidia graphics cards being released recently, you can probably get a used 960 pretty cheap (for the record, i can run overwatch with two 960 ftw's at 135~fps solid on high settings at 1920x1080 so one would get you a solid 60fps on most games at decent levels of prettyness. you could get 700 and 800 series cheaper but will not last as long or be as effective. a 1050/1040 might be a better option but you'd have to get use one of those tools from /r/buildapc to compare effectiveness and price cuz there's way too many for me to spew all the data here)
last but not least, the power supply unit! (aka psu) once you have all other components selected, you need to go find out the wattage ratings for all the components and add them up. that will determine the amount of wattage your psu should be, choosing a psu with more wattage than is required as having too little can cause problems (750w should probably be fine unless you go for much heavier stuff). you also need to make sure it's the right size for the tower and has all the plugs you need (modular are good as they have a lot of everything and can add/remove cables fairly freely).
once you have those picked out, there are gallons of peripherals you can choose from (ie, monitor, keyboard, mouse, headsets/speakers, etc. i personally like my keyboard to light up/glow cuz i work in the dark more often than not.) as well, you will need a hard drive or two and an operating system cd and key (windows 7 is probably best for price and usage for gaming. definitely do not get windows 8 it was made with tablets in mind and is total crap, windows 10 isn't a bad choice if you can get it cheap. maybe student versions? idk.) hard drives are fairly cheap and easy to upgrade and install (nother one of the universals). i would suggest a 1TB HDD as that is a large amount of space and fairly cheap (that one's $50) considering they go up to 6tb now. another option if you are willing to shell out for it is to get an SSD to load the os from (makes your computer start up stupid fast) and have an extra hdd for larger files like movies music and games. the only problem with this is that most things want to use C: for downloading and storing files so if the ssd isn't big enough you can run out of space pretty damn quick. that said, i'm using a 128gb ssd and only just recently started running out of room. 256gb would probably be better for longer term and for storing maybe one or two games on it for fast loading or maybe just using that if you're not a game hoarder like i am (i like having all my steam games installed for nostalgia purposes).
also as a sortof rant/general rule i would suggest avoiding asus if you can, not cuz their stuff is crap but because their rma department is crap. i've sent things to them which were horrifically broken or otherwise obviously damaged that they sent back to me unchanged. on the flip side, they sent back a new motherboard when i sent it in the second time after i said i would prefer they do that, so they've got that going for them.
with all of that said, there are likely pre-designed pcs for that range somewhere but i could not immediately find them on /r/buildapc so i'm not sure where to find them. if you'd prefer that, i can go find it. i just think of it as more fun to do the aforementioned abomination of planning and minmaxing. in all cases, building the pc yourself will be cheaper than buying one from a store or a laptop.
Cause I am dumb and didn't realize that Amazon lists this drive as one item with two options. First time I looked it up it said 7200, second time it was 5400 but I didn't realize til I opened the box.
My poor boot times :-(
$69 is the MSRP, but this always hovers around $50-60 (http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Desktop-Hard-Disk-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK). Still a good deal at $44.99
8GB of RAM
1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.
PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp
Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.
Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.
So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.
Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft
Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):
Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG
$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.
So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.
Does that "come close without cheating"?
Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:
AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.
PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.
PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free
PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.
You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.
This or this?
It looks like amazon matched (well, beat by a penny). Slightly different mfr#: B&H # SAMZN6E1T0BW MFR # MZ-N6E1T0BW, amazon #MZ-76E1T0B/AM.
I am on the lookout for a damn fine deal on a quality 2TB SSD.
Because it's not a full-on deal, I'll post it here: Amazon has multiple Crucial P1 1TB drives for less than 100$, in Warehouse Deals.
E: All 7 of them have been sold.
Sabrent Rocket 1tb is $110 at the moment if you are looking for a cheaper 1tb nvme
although the drive OP posted is nicer
The 2.5" is also going for the same price.
I have a 2015 MacBook Air; the RAM memory is soldered on, but the SSD is replaceable. I got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Sintech-Adapter-Upgrade-2013-2016-2013-2015/dp/B07FYY3H5F/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=macbook+ssd+adapter&qid=1564334188&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=m.2+ssd+nvme&qid=1564334236&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRzhaTDM3TVFFQk5VJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzY2NTAxMktMVjVYNzM2TElVSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzY1NDE5MjgxQVc5QUJDWUU1VSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= and now my MacBook Air has a TB of storage space.
I used the following guide but there are others: https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/upgrading-2013-2014-macbook-pro-ssd-to-m-2-nvme.2034976/
So first thing's first, Windows: ~$130 for Home Edition.
Okay, so things to keep in mind:
The GPU you should be seeking to use is the 1660 Ti, which is basically a slightly gimped RTX 2060 but without the raytracing stuff. If you are willing to spend a bit more then you could get an RX 5700 instead, which is nearly ~30% faster on average.
That'll put you at $270 - $360 depending on the model you pick. Yes, it's a third of your budget, but the GPU is the single most important part of your build.
Secondly you'll want a decent CPU to go with that.
The Ryzen 5 3600 looks like a pretty good CPU, its a bit under $200, its fairly beefy and extendable so it's somewhat "future-proof" - in that it shouldn't cause much bottlenecking and you could upgrade your GPU past a 2080 Ti before needing to change the processor.
This MSI Tomohawk Mobo looks good for the 3600.
So we're at ~$320 for that, or about $640 total. Plus windows that is ~$730.
The RAM Inty recommended before should be fine. You only really need 16 GB. This will set you back ~$80. If you find yourself wanting more RAM later down the line you can always add another pair of sticks later and double up your RAM.
That puts us at around ~$800.
$80 for a 750W Fully Modular Corsair PSU is basically a steal. It's refurbished though, although that shouldn't be a problem - especially with a PSU.
We're at ~$880.
Some good thermal paste for your CPU.
We're now at ~$890.
Storage depends on what you want to do. Do you install a lot of stuff and files at once? In which case you might want to get a nice sized SSD plus a big HDD.
For your system drive. Plenty of space, good price, AND its an nvme SSD.
That makes for ~$990.
If you need lots of extra space
If you need extreme extra space
Keyboard and case are up to you, decide as you please. For the case just make sure that it can support an ATX mobo, as the mobo listed here is full ATX. Mechanical keyboards are crack, but they tend to be more expensive so they're probably out of range. This will be another $100 to $150 depending on what you pick.
Something to keep in mind though: Your case and your monitors are basically "future proof". In other words, they won't really get "worse" with time or cause future performance issues. So monitors and case are things where you want to consider what you'll eventually want and buy ahead, even if you have to stretch a bit.
This just leaves your monitor. I would NOT recommend a 1080p monitor above 24 in. Honestly, if you can go for a 1440p monitor then do it. I'm a bit of a resolution whore tho, so if 1080p works for you then that's fine. I would also avoid TN panels - they tend to look more washed out, tinny, and have worse viewing angles . . . although they also tend to be a fair bit cheaper than the good panels (namely IPS panels).
I used to own one of these . . . it was vvy vvy gud. This is a relatively artsy monitor, so if color gamut correctness or whatever is important for you for photo or video editing or whatever, then this is a good pick. It's a bit expensive, yeah, but also super gorgeous. It also goes up to 75 Hz. Conversely, get a freesync monitor, and this one is probably good - haven't done much research on it, but Dells are generally pretty good in my experience (my current 4K monitor is a Dell too). Freesync will allow you to basically eliminate screen tearing and will provide a smoother feeling experience because it will even out frame rates better.
One last thing to keep in mind: Shopping around on ebay and other sites can save you a fair bit. My rule of thumb is to never, ever buy sensitive parts like hard-drives, cpus, or motherboards second hand or refurbished. But everything else is fair game. So refurbished GPUs, Monitors, PSUs, Cases, etc. should be fine. Pre-owned? Ehhh . . . that I'm much, much more sketchy on - personally I wouldn't, but that's just me.
So in total it'd be somewhere in the range of $1500 including monitor, OS, case, and keyboard. The system itself is around $1000. But you can perhaps knock off a hundred bucks or two by shopping around and looking for where you can buy these parts cheaper than Amazon.
But again: investing in a good monitor and case can be worth it. It means you won't have to replace it if/when you do upgrade. And worst case scenario you can offload your monitor as a side/secondary monitor when you upgrade your monitor to a new one.
Looks like this Seagate SSHD is also on sale for $5 less (74.99), it's a 2.5" vs the 3.5" I posted above which is supposedly faster. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-FireCuda-Accelerated-Performance-ST2000LX001/dp/B01M1NHCZT
That'll cost you $50 for USB or $30 for a SATA SSD.
I have dozens of drives I've collected over the years, but with storage being so cheap it's easier to transfer your data to a new device rather than rely on a drive so near the end of it's life. Keep the old drive in a bin if you want to keep it for the lulz, but I wouldn't actually use it in my build.
If you can't swing $30 on an SSD (this one is 240 GB, so it can easily hold windows AND many games on it) to vastly improve your quality of life in your hobby, then you have other problems, and you should probably be using your time gaming either working a part time job, extra hours at your main job, or going through your stuff selling what you don't need on ebay/craigslist. The example I found took all of 5 seconds to find, I'm SURE you could find a better deal or a cheaper one out there with a modicum of effort. SSDs have been VERY affordable ($50 or less) for 3-4 years now, and mainstream in gaming PCs for at least 7. Some people have been using them for over a decade. It's about as reasonable to expect developers to cater to PCs without SSDs as it would be to expect developers to make all their new games run flawlessly on a Playstation 2.
Having financial stresses when you can do something about it (and having the free time to play games means you CAN do something about it, even if you're disabled there's ways to earn money even online) is going to needlessly contribute to anxiety and depression. Here's some ideas if you need some:
Get one of these. Crack it open and put it in, download the full update from Playstation network and away you go.
Have installed these in friends PS4 and my own.
doesn't appear to be in there anymore but here it is
Just pointing out that you can get a decent quality SSD with more than enough space for SC and a couple more games for $20 or less
I have a Samsung T5 500GB. It works pretty well and uses USB 3.1 type C, which means it also works fine with USB 3.0. From what I can find it's one of the best external USB 3.0 SSD for the money. I personally used it for virtual machines when I was in college. It was faster than internal storage, and it never got hot. The T5 comes in 500GB, 1TB, and 2TB flavors. The 500GB seems to be the best price per gigabyte right now.
Here's a link to it on amazon so you can check it out:
Samsung T5 Portable SSD - 500GB
I used this one. Great quality and small. May be able to go cheaper if you nabbed an internal SSD and a cheap enclosure but not sure.
Memory card in a USB card reader combo seems to be hit and miss.
I would go with SSD. Samsung T5 is popular with M3 owners.
I have the same 13” mid 2012 MBP and am running 16gb of RAM w/ a 1TB SSD. I also have the same version of Ableton as you. The official specs from Apple list 8gb RAM as the max but it can for sure support 16gb. Based on the specs you provided I’d guess you have the i5 version which comes stock with 4gb of RAM and the 500gb HDD. Your model will support 16gb and you’ll see a significant boost in performance, with Ableton and the computer in general, if you add 16gb and an SSD. If you leave the standard 500gb HDD, I'd assume you'd only see a moderate boost in performance since that's really the big driver of slow performance. I can't speak to the performance of Omnisphere as I don't have a working copy but I do know it made a significant boost for pretty much everything in Ableton and otherwise.
My recommendation would be to add 16gb of RAM plus an SSD. They are both relatively straight forward processes as well (links below), just need the right tools and to take your time. Watch YouTube tutorials. Attaching links to the items I have in mine. I'd recommend getting the Crucial RAM and Samsung SSD (which is what I have and has a higher performance rating), but the Crucial SSD will be adequate as well.
Let me know if you have other questions on it.
HDD Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+Hard+Drive+Replacement/10378
RAM Swap - https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2012+RAM+Replacement/10374
Crucial SSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0784SLQM6/
Samsung SSD - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/
RAM - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTBJFW/
Tool Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IVKPTP6/
I hear ya! I’ve got the Pro which has the two USB in the front, one in the back. I think it’s one more than the base PS4. And I also have the PSVR v2 box sitting on top of my Pro as well as a Seagate External 8TB Expansion HD plugged into the back.
The pad has two USB 2.0 ports on it, so you essentially aren’t losing a port after running the cable from the PS4 to the pad, though the PS4 has USB 3.0 ports. Still, it’s fine to charge my controller, headphones, or plug in my MixAmp TR Pro... and I keep my external HD in the 3.0. I also have a USB input on the front of my home theater receiver that I’ll sometimes use just to keep my controller charging while playing. I imagine if you’re using a headset that requires you to plug in a USB to use it wirelessly, then you need all the space you can get.
You might consider picking up a USB hub like this one, for example, that says it works on the PS4/Slim/Pro and has four USB3.0 ports (with a cable that plugs into one of them on the PS4). I don’t own it and haven’t tried it, but I’ve seen several redditors talk about using a USB hub on their PS4 to solve that problem.
Hope this helps!
I went with this Samsung 860 EVO 500gb SSD.
And this Orico adapter.
It works phenomenally. Cut all of my load times in half, and intra-instance load times are nonexistent.
Highly recommend it.
This is kind of high for used prices, esp without original packaging. The 860s are about 83 usd on amazon.
They often go on sale for less too, ssd prices have been going down lately. EX https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/9s9s5b/ssd_samsung_500gb_860_evo_6524_with_code_appsave25 for 65 USD new with packaging/ebay buyer protection.
Well, first off: OS X 10.11 El Capitan isn't the newest macOS version for your MacBook Pro. Your MacBook pro actually supports macOS 10.13 High Sierra. High Sierra can still be downloaded from the Mac App Store, it is just hidden. Here is the link to it (click this link in Safari only, not in Chrome or Firefox!):
OS X El Capitan went out of support in the fall of 2018, so it has been missing out on security for quite some time. Every major macOS version has 1 year of mainstream support (the time frame between its own initial release and the initial release of its successor one year later) and two years of security support immediately after that. Security support includes Safari updates.
Mainstream support for High Sierra has already ended, but its security support only ends in the fall of 2020. So if you update your MacBook Pro to High Sierra, it is still safe to use.
You can speed your machine up by adding more RAM and an SSD to it:
Your MacBook Pro supports up to 16 GB RAM (2 x 8 GB RAM modules). A higher amount than that won't work due to a limitation in the logic board.
You need to buy RAM that matches the following specifications:
PC3-8500 1066 MHz DDR3, 204-pin
Those are some examples of RAM that should work:
As for the SSD, your MacBook Pro supports every SSD that meets the following criteria:
Here are some examples of SSDs that should work:
Before you install the SSD, it is advisable to create a backup of the files you want to keep. Store them on some external drive.
You can then reinstall macOS either via Internet Recovery or a macOS 10.13 High Sierra installer USB-Stick (which is the last OS your MacBook Pro supports).
As for the battery: The battery is replaceable in MacBook Pros 2010. However, you won't be able to get an OEM battery Apple uses, most likely. Those are sold out by now and no longer available, unless you are extremely lucky. There are third party batteries that work, though, like this one for the 13" version(!):
> I also heard mixed things about the new butterfly keyboards, but overall it seems once you get used to them they make your typing faster? So that sounds good for me if it's true
The problem is less the feeling of the butterfly keyboard; beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The problem is that the butterfly keys sometimes outright fail if small particles - like dust - intrude under them. I have discussed the problem here (last paragraph):
Samsung 860 EVO SSDs are basically rated the best in terms of performance and the best SSD brand with only a minor price premium. The 500GB version is $80 while the 250GB is $58.
They are $5 more compared to the Crucial MX500 models for the same capacities. Samsung has their own migration software (works only with Samsung) that you can download from their site if you want to clone your current hard drive. However, most people are unlikely to notice the performance difference
Don't know much about the Crucial BX500 or WD Green series SSDs. But even slow SSDs are much faster than than the fastest hard drive.
Samsung Evo 860 500gb: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539043411&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=samsung+860+evo&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31CElO-B3PL&amp;ref=plSrch
Samsung evo 860 is the latest version and well worth the money.
I got a 850 a couple years ago and it's still a lot better then a HDD. I keep my operating system, gw2, and one other game on it. Get a 1-2TB western digital hard drive for other games/file storage.
Also on copying gw2, I did it but had to repair the game for it to work again (only took five minutes).
500g version has a similar deal at 27% off for 98$ final price
Also available on amazon for 69$ Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA III 250GB Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) [US Version] https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W.S7Bb74H6ATJ
Any 2.5" (laptop-sized) hard drive that is 9.5mm in height or smaller should work. I recommend the 2.5" Seagate FireCuda (which comes in 2TB size), since it will give your PS4 a minor speed boost in addition to a storage increase. The FireCuda is a "hybrid drive", which means it contains a combination of both a standard HDD and a small SSD. In simple terms a hybrid drive automatically loads frequently accessed files onto the SSD to improve speed. A hybrid drive would still be slower than a SSD only hard drive, but would be much more reasonably priced. I recommend googling "hybrid hard drive" if your interested in getting a better understanding of what it is.
Also keep in mind that the upcoming 4.5 update is going to allow external HDD to be used as storage for your system. That would be another possibility in the near future to increase your storage, but since the update is currently in beta I would recommend waiting for the official release before making any purchases.
The process to replace the hard drive in a PS4 is very simple. I recommend following a detailed guide on youtube if you are in need of step-by-step instructions.
EDIT: Here's a link to an overview of the benefits and limitations of using a FireCuda with a PS4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hftHjOvcUtc
I don't think there are any 7200 RPM laptop drives out there. I actually was just looking for some last night and had no luck. The drive I ended up purchasing was this
based on a recommendation from this sub in the past. I also found an imgur guide to go along with it for an easy install.
Samsung Seagate Momentus 2TB
HGST Travelstar 5K1500 1.5TB
Seagate 1TB Solid State Hybrid Drive
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard DriveThis one you have to take apart but will fit.
HGST Travelstar 2.5-Inch 1TB 7200RPM
You can return games if you directly buy them from steam and play for less than 2 hours. Having a ssd instead of a hd has changed my life. If you have $50-100 you should upgrade that. Your GPU will likely play many games just fine. It might not work well for games where the camera moves. Games like rollercoasters and FPS make some people very sick if the framerate is not high enough. I nope out of most coaster apps immediately. Skyrim makes me mildly sick with a rx480. There is one low quality coaster app that does not bug me at all.
You might not love fallout 4 vr as much as you would guess. I LOVE Skyrim. I have only played 10-15 mins in vr. The menus and controls are not great. It feels very awkward. My framerate is barely good enough to avoid nausea with free movement. I have not tried teleportation yet. I will mod it for speech control and max my carry weight so I can ignore most of the ui. I hear that FO4vr has most of the same issues and you cant mod it. I also love FO4 but I will wait for a sale and might return it.
I have an i3-3225 and rx480
You can buy those two drives, BNIB, 2 day Prime shipping, for $82 total. Consider adjusting your asking price.
Same as amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9G43WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can get the 8TB Archive drives for $209 from Amazon if you're willing to shuck it.
In the HP Server vs Storinator graphic... how was the HP configured? Those writes aren't just "bad" - I think the only term that could apply is "broken". A USB hard drive would be better than that. Heck, a USB drive with an SMR disk inside would have better writes.
That performance graph looks a lot like untiered Storage Spaces performance in parity arrangements (which is well known to have abysmal write performance). Was that what the HPs were actually doing? If so, comparing that to Storage Spaces in a mirror arrangement isn't really a fair comparison. Not that I'm not sure they likely went from a bad place to a good place with a new server setup in the case study itself - just saying that that doesn't seem to be Apples to Apples in the graph, is all :)
Is this a genuine question? Because your link looks like an affiliate link (there's a partner code in the URL) plus https://www.amazon.com/Avolusion-HDDGear-6000GB-External-Pre-Formatted/dp/B074Q994C4 Amazon has it cheaper.
I doubt there's any decent drive in there. The same price, or less, can get you 8TB WD or Segates. Like: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB8000100/dp/B01HAPGEIE for $129 & https://www.amazon.com/Elements-Desktop-Hard-Drive-WDBWLG0080HBK-NESN/dp/B07D5V2ZXD for $149 if we go by your link price.
Unless they're running HGST drives or something, which is super unlikely, it's not worth shucking.
Guessing this for WD and this one for Seagate?
Amazon link for the lazy
Forget this deal everyone. The Crucial MX300 525GB is $112.99 on amazon.ca atm!
Shoutouts to u/nottz10k https://www.reddit.com/r/bapcsalescanada/comments/5fakj5/ssd_amazonca_crucial_mx300_525gb_ssd_11299/
EDIT: The crucial deal expired.
One that is not too far off. Crucial MX300 525GB for 185$
A brand new one is only $4 or $5 more. [Best Buy] (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/seagate-backup-plus-2tb-external-usb-3-0-2-0-portable-hard-drive-black/2944503.p?id=1219083979672&amp;skuId=2944503&amp;lsft=ref:212,loc:1&amp;ksid=8a4d3db5-061f-497c-bf06-25863be15ce0&amp;ksprof_id=8&amp;ksaffcode=pg27&amp;ksdevice=c&amp;ref=212&amp;loc=1), [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Storage-STDR2000100/dp/B00FRHTSK4), [Walmart] (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Seagate-Backup-Plus-2TB-Slim-Portable-External-Hard-Drive-Assorted-Colors/35610046?selectedSellerId=0&amp;)
If you need even more storage: 2TB for $65, shipped (2.5" USB powered) or 4TB for $100, shipped
(2.5" USB powered).
Here's an 8TB for $160, shipped (3.5" externally powered).
Newegg ones seems to have sold out. Here's the amazon one for 99 again http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000100/dp/B00FRHTSK4
People buying on Amazon, be careful: the 5400 RPM one is $45, but the 7200RPM is $54 (was 49 until this morning).
I'd definitely recommend making a post on /r/BuildAPC. The build looks nice but I'd definitely recommend getting at least a 1TB HDD for about $50. Liquid CPU cooling is overkill for you since the CPU you chose can't be overclocked. A simple $20 cooler will keep it sub 60C for most workloads.
Also, I'd pay an extra $10 for this Samsung 840 250GB SSD instead. Speeds ar emuch better, plus it comes with a download code for Far Cry 4.
I think you can do a lot better for your money.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU | Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor | £77.99 @ Aria PC
Motherboard | MSI H81M-P33 Micro ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | £32.17 @ Scan.co.uk
Memory | Kingston 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £58.96 @ Amazon UK
Storage | WD 1TB 3.5 inch Internal Hard Drive - Caviar Blue | £43.49 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | MSI Radeon R7 260X 2GB Video Card | £96.78 @ Aria PC
Case | NZXT Source 210 Elite (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | £38.65 @ Scan.co.uk
Power Supply | Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | £36.73 @ Amazon UK
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available. | £384.77
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-16 15:24 GMT+0000 |
Changed to a far superior CPU. Motherboard is nice and cheap but I have one and it's absolutely fine. Doubled the RAM to 8 GB. Doubled storage to 1 TB. Semi-modular PSU (you'll thank me when you build). Removed the disk drive because nobody uses them very much these days but of course it'll still come in under budget if you want it.
Don't get either one of those... get an SSHD:
That's the drive i have, and it runs like a champ. I am literally always the first player to load in BF4, and other games just seem more quick to load (though i don't have a point of reference like i do with BF)
This is probably the drive they use too...
I went with a 1TB Seagate Hybrid Drive:
Pretty decent 2.5 drive that is under $100. There are definitely faster drives but this one works well especially if your looking to stay under $100.
This is the drive put in a PS3 the performance gain is real
(Links from OP and /u/AtariXL)
The biggest WTF for me concerning the Ursa is the use of those ridiculously expensive CFast cards. With that 17 pound behemoth of a camera, they couldn't figure out a way to squeeze in an SSD slot?
This 250 GB SSD's dimensions are:
> Product Dimensions: 3.9 x 0.3 x 2.8 inches ; 1.9 ounces
That's roughly the size and weight of a deck of playing cards. That's nothing. It's $129.
The price for a 256 GB Cfast card? $1,414.55. Four of those memory cards is as expensive as the damn camera!
TL;DR: For the amount of your budget, buy the SSD and RAM I recommended. Either spend $200 on a GPU or spend $150 on a mid-tier GPU, up your budget to $400 and get a better MoBo for future upgrades. Good luck!
Edit -- I just saw you have an AMD CPU. I've heard that nVidia & Intel work better together, and AMD works best with the other cards. Adjust accordingly.
That's not true. Compare the specs and benchmarks
Google around and find conflicting results if you want, but I can't find anything to suggest that the bait & switch version of the v300 meets its advertised spec of 450/450MB/s or 85/130MB/s compressible / incompressible.
1 TB hdd for $32 shipped....really don't want to sully my IBM-PC compatible with moving parts though lol
Overall it's a great build. I would suggest getting RAM which cost a little less for the same capacity and use the funds to go to a 1TB drive instead of 500GB. It'll work out better in the long run.
It is also in amazon if someone is interested
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 $105.99 with Prime
I'm building a new high end pc from the ground up. Should I be taking advantage of any of these sales? I feel like the mouse and power supply are automatic purchases but I'm a newbie so I wanted to see if I can get any help here first. Sorry if this is filling up the discussion post.
I read that the crucial's aren't good because once you reach 75% capacity it dramatically slows your pc down? Also, don't know if external SSDs are recommended but should I bite on that SanDisk?
Samsung 1TB 860 EVO
Crucial P1 1TB m.2 SSD
SanDisk 1TB Portable External SSD
Corsair RM850x, 850 Watt Gold Certified Fully Modular Power Supply
I don't even know if I will need a coouler, and if I want to go liquid cooling route, and I don't care about RGB, but for a high end pc I'm assuming I should buy?
Corsair H115i RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler
This seems like the best deal on a mouse no?
Logitech® MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse
Was actually looking for 32GB RAM, should I pass since if I go AMD mobo route, having to use more than 2 will cause a slowdown right?
Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s
Your motherboard supports either SATA or NVMe. NVMe is faster, however you won't notice the extra speed unless you do certain tasks that read/write massive amounts of data regularly (common example is high res video editing.)
That being said, there are now some NVMe drives such as the Crucial P1 which are similar in price to SATA drives, in which case you get both speed and cost effectiveness.
I ordered and recieved this SSD and enclosure last week...specifically for Destiny 2. The improvement in load times cannot be understated, even on my Xbox One X.
AmazonBasics 2.5-inches SATA Hard... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5RLG2C?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I got the exact same thing as from this post, since the OP had indicated success:
I searched and found the items on Amazon, so ordered from there instead of the site from the post above:
(let me know if the links don't work - posting from my phone)
i know it's sold out right now, but 850 evo 1tb refurbs have been going for about $200 on best buy lately:
not to mention 860 evo 1tb brand new is $330
Is there any reason to get this instead of a Sabrent Rocket for $9 less? (Aside from the additional 50 MB/s read which is pretty negligible at 3450 MB/s)
Consider a NON-SATA SSD. It'll be a tad more expensive but worth it. SATA has inherent speed bottlenecks and the gains are noticeable. I don't think the mobo has m.2 slots, but if it does(asrock b450m-hdv is ITX, has m.2, and is way cheaper) then you won't need another mobo.
Also pay attention to the m.2 slot wiring. Some are m-key(NVMe) only and others are b+m(NVMe+SATA Compatible).
The SSD I linked below is double the price but more than doubles your speed.
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2yhYCbZ9HBF92
I'm not telling you to get a 1TB 970 Evo, I'm telling you to get a 1TB SSD from a different brand. I linked them earlier, but again, this or this.
If you're worried about money, you should in absolutely no circumstances be buying a 970 evo. It's overpriced at all capacities.
I picked up the Sabrent Rocket 1TB for £99 from Amazon yesterday (there was an auto voucher applied to take it down from £117) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR/
It's not QLC from what I understand and performs better. Obviously I've not tested yet but I was looking at similar options to yourself and came to this.
970 Evo Plus' are stupidly overpriced.
For context, you can get a 1TB Sabrent Rocket which performs basically identical for half the price of a 1TB 970 evo plus.
Linked is what i got about a month ago. Works fine, and seemed reasonably priced when I researched SSDs.
Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I'm talking about an internal SSD. The 2.5" models use what's called a SATA connector (the same type your current hard drive should use). Using it through USB will not only be much slower, but also mean that you have to carry around the external storage which is a pain in the ass.
The best way to think about SSDs is that they're basically really fast hard drives with no moving parts. They're just better in every way, and in this day and age it's hard to be without one.
Edit: here is what I'm talking about when I say internal 2.5" SSD.
Available through Amazon Prime for the same price. Non-prime is $299.99.
If you do need a new SSD you'd be better off getting 1TB instead:
Samsung has the 860 EVO M.2 1TB for the same price as two of these.
Same with Microcenter (in-store only) but with the SATA III version.
Amazon for $168.
To be honest, you might as well wait two months for Black Friday. Chances are if they're this low now, especially given how many places have them on sale for this price, it'll be much cheaper on Black Friday.
I installed the Samsung 860 EVO 1TB and it's been great. Seems very fast to me.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB
m.2 is just a socket. It's preferrable to 2.5" since it doesn't involve any wires.
M.2 can run both SATA or NVME SSDs. Sabrent Rocket is inexpensive M.2 NVME that's within price of many SATA SSDs. However, to answer your question - for playing video games SATA SSD to NVME SSD is not as much of improvement as HDD to SSD.
This is the HDD most people use
I'd recommend the Crucial MX300 525GB. It's $123 when not on sale, for a substantial amount of space.
Samsung is nice, but you're paying a large premium for the name. The other brands recommend are good too, but the Crucial is my personal favorite.
Yeah go for the firecuda (2.0TB SSHD)!
Comparison to other drives:
That's a fine choice for a standard HDD, you can also step-up to the Seagate Firecuda which is a hybrid drive and will be a bit faster in titles that you play regularly thanks to the solid-state cache on the drive. You could also wait for firmware 4.50 to release and use any USB 3.0 HDD externally which will afford you much more space.
Amazon also has the drive on sale for the same price as newegg though I'm not sure for how long.
Yes. And while you’re upgrading grab this 240GB SSD for $33: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5IB20Q/
Your computer will feel like a new machine.
Oh cmon... ssd cost are near 50€ for a 240GB more than decent ssd, it doesnt need to be the best neither the highest amount.
Since you talk in L, i'll send you uk link for 43 Pounds: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingston-SA400S37-240G-Solid-State/dp/B01N5IB20Q/
With this, any argument against the ssd is automatically overkilled.
It's like saying no game should be developed with only HDD's in mid. or no game should be developed with GTX 1060 in mind, they should be playable with a Nvidia gt 9600 from 2005.
Btw: You don't need SSD, it's recommended SSD because the loading time will get long, pretty much like GTA V case.
Amazon have a kingston SSD 240GB for £52
Here the link if youre interested : https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01N5IB20Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523626963&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=kingston+ssd&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41w4sVmZfZL&amp;ref=plSrch
Used a couple of these. No issues at all over a year of run time. As long as you don't use a shit SSD as a boot drive, you won't have any problems with playing games off of it.
EDIT: Also https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=sr_1_7?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523242024&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=ssd
I mean... is $18 too much?
Vivo books are great for your use case. Only downside of this one is no SSD, but you could always get a 128gb one for $40 to replace the hard drive if you want the load speed and don’t need the space. If you do that route to get faster load times, you could just use the included 1tb HDD as an external drive for any photoshop files that get too big.
ASUS VivoBook F510UA 15.6” Full HD Nanoedge Laptop, Intel Core i5-8250U Processor, 8GB DDR4 RAM, 1TB HDD, USB-C, Fingerprint, Windows 10 Home - F510UA-AH51, Star Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0762S8PYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QIA5BbPTNMTSY
Edit: jk, SSDs are cheaper than I thought right now, you can get a 128 for $21
Kingston A400 SSD 120GB SATA 3 2.5” Solid State Drive SA400S37/120G - Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0PA5BbZFBWTMG
If you haven't looked at prices lately SSDs are not expensive at all anymore. You can get an entry level120gb for $20.
Kingston 120GB A400 SSD 2.5'' SATA 7MM 2.5-Inch SA400S37/120G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2qp0CbHB10QNP
You'd be a fool to not use two of these with ZFS:
Downvoted? Ok have fun when your flash stick fails. For $50 you could have redundant SSDs.
Same price and no shipping at amazon.ca. Its been this price for a while.
> Cool. I'll be sure to let everyone know to drop $500 on one to fix the issue Capcom created.
Little bit off there pal. ^^^Actually ^^^you’re ^^^off ^^^by ^^^$450
> You're absolutely right; Tempered Elder Hunter World, or more recently, Tempered Jho Hunter World, starts after the terribly implemented story.
Actually, I spend a lot of time theory crafting builds, trying new weapons, and messing around. Tempered Elder farming is just how you get Stream Stones, but, if that’s all you care about, that’s your problem not Capcom’s. MH games have never been super story driven like Zelda, and it’s not an MMORPG. Be happy the game doesnt end after the story like 99% of RPG’s. At least you can play until HR999. They also have events, weekly and limited bounties and new weapons, monsters and armour being released for free.
Samsung Evo 860 is the best for performance and price.
This is what I picked up from Amazon, works amazing! Just plug it in, transfer D2 over, bye bye loading times!
Samsung 860 Evo 500GB 2.5... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
ORICO 2.5 USB 3 External Hard... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY97QE8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
My brother did the same thing expect he got this SSD.
Silicon Power 512GB SSD 3D NAND A55 SLC Cache Performance Boost SATA III 2.5" 7mm (0.28") Internal Solid State Drive (SP512GBSS3A55S25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07997QV4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aMvYBbPRF3NPX
If you've got amazon prime you can get this 240GB Sandisk ssd for £30.
According to CamelCamelCamel it was much lower about 1 year ago. However, this increase could be due to the shortage of memory.
A lot of people here are buying external drives in bulk and shucking them since it's substantially cheaper than buying plain drives. This is a really weird dynamic. Why on earth is it cheaper to buy a drive with additional hardware and packaging around it than to just buy the drive itself?
e.g. this external drive is $180, but a bare archive drive is $228. WTF? It is almost $50 more expensive to buy just the drive without the enclosure around it. (And that's assuming the 8TB external is an SMR archive drive inside, rather than a regular PMR drive -- which is even more expensive!) You might say "oh, it's on sale!" -- yeah, they're always on sale at those kinds of prices from one brand or another.
With WD products instead of Seagate, this has gotten absolutely ridiculous. BestBuy is regularly advertised on here offering external drives containing shuckable 8TB WD Reds in the price range of $150~$200 while the drive by itself often goes for nearly $300! It's twice as expensive to buy the plain drive?! WHY?!
If you want to save $10 more you can buy Seagates External drive which comes with these drives in them: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB8000100/dp/B01HAPGEIE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1EF7XHEFJGVSQ&amp;keywords=seagate+8tb+external+hard+drive&amp;qid=1554871246&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=Seagate+8tb+ex%2Celectronics%2C194&amp;sr=1-3
I bought the external a year ago and took the HDDs out and had these drives in them more info about the drives and speeds can be found here that I posted in /r/DataHoarder : https://old.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/8bghgg/newegg_seagate_expansion_8tb_usb_30_35_desktop/dx6wqxk/
Datasheet for the drives can be found here: https://www.seagate.com/www-content/datasheets/pdfs/3-5-barracudaDS1900-11-1806US-en_US.pdf
I have an 8TB Seagate Expansion external hooked up to my Shield, and I've had no issues with sleep/wake issues.
Crucial mx300 is only 180-200
16GB of DDR4 does not cost ~60-90$. Especially at 3000mhz.
2x8GB 3000mhz sticks of Corsair Vengance LPX is currently $195, A 525GB SSD is currently $130.
cheaper on amazon XD gg
Crucial mx300 525GB for $109. Not sure if it's the best thing for homelabs but looks to be a good deal.
I submitted it to Amazon, now it's the same price there with prime.
It is incredibly easy to upgrade. Just buy this (unfortunately you just missed it for $70): http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Storage-STDR2000100/dp/B00FRHTSK4
And follow these steps: http://imgur.com/a/JF5jA
just remove it from the external casing, have this one in my ps4 as well.
Obligatory Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB. It's the brand of Samsung Stock HDD already found in PS4 with higher capacity.
I personally got the Samsung Momentus Spinpoint 2TB which works like a dream for me. No beeping issues others have said from the Backup Plus.
Buy this one instead: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=psdc_595048_t1_B01065S79E
Not as much as they used to be. You can get a 120GB one for under $50 https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-120GB-SDSSDA-120G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G43WU/
If you only got 8GB of RAM and a 1TB HDD, that should pay for it. You could always just get one later, but that would involve having to reinstall your OS and move everything over which can be a bit of a hassle.
You don't need to spend that much. This Sandisk 240GB model along with this SATA III to USB 3 cable will do just as well for less money, but it won't look as pretty lol.
B&H (Have them Pricematch): https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1346577-REG/samsung_mu_pa500b_am_t5_500gb_portable_ssd.html
This is a good all-in-one solution if you don't want to mess with a separate drive and adapter.
Well here is the simplest answer I can give because it can be exhausting...
Get this one, 500GB. This is what I use.
The reason I recommend this is because DIY here can have a lot of pitfalls. If you fall in, you may end up thinking that I 'duped you', where in reality you just made a poor purchase decision. In the end, external enclosures for usb 3.0 are rife with horrible throughput caps. Don't bother. The link I gave is an all in one, it literally is the enclosure (and is capable), and the SSD. Comes with a cable. Open the package, plug it in, move D2 to that new drive. Done.
Edit: thanks for the silver, whatever that is. I take it someone got the drive and liked it.
We just put a 500GB SSD in -they are on sale right now on Amazon.
I used this tool (will download upon clicking) to format the 500GB drive to FAT32 in Windows.
This is the one i went with world of difference
Your motherboard does not have an M.2 slot on it.
You can buy a PCI-E x4 M.2 adapter that fits the 500GB Samsung EVO 970 plus (like this one https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-Adapter-Support-22110/dp/B01GCXCR7W/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=pci-e+m.2+adapter&amp;qid=1562715160&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4), but it requires a PCI-E x4 slot.
Your motherboard has four PCI-E x1 slots (won't fit) and two PCI-E x16 slots (it will fit in this slot but only if you have one free -- i.e. you don't have two video cards).
If you're looking for a cheaper alternative, consider getting a regular old boring SATA III SSD. True, they aren't as fast as NVMe SSDs, but this is $30 cheaper (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=500GB+samsung+evo+SSD&amp;qid=1562715888&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3) and for gaming you actually won't notice much of a difference compared to the NVMe drive you spec'ed. NVMe gives you bigger performance boosts when reading/writing large blocks of sequential data, so for example video editing. Source: https://www.online-tech-tips.com/computer-tips/sata-3-vs-m-2-vs-nvme-overview-and-comparison/
No, you won't notice any difference in gaming. I would highly recommend purchasing a 1TB HDD alongside your SSD, as a 120GB SSD leaves very little space for games once your OS and other essential programs are installed. I would recommend a WD Blue 1TB.
Here is a good deal on a new hard drive. And like /u/ehManiacal said, I would not bother with a used HD, just not worth the risk.
I have 4 GB of DDR3 ram and a case that I'm not using, let m know if you are interested.
You can also get a new 120GB ssd from new egg for like $50.
It is absolutely worth it. I have an early 2011 MBP and the speed bump from switching to an SSD was enormous. I can't recommend it enough.
If you are looking for hardware suggestions, look at the Samsung 840 Evo. I have it, some people I know have one, we all are satisfied and it seems to give you lots of bang for the buck.
Example build (not cheap, nor expensive):
AOC e2470Swda 23.6" 1080p LED Monitor with VESA Mountings - £110.06
Logitech MK330 Wireless Keyobard/Mouse Combo - £31.18
*0.3m HDMI Cable - £0.72
Total Cost: £400.46
Assuming you have either headphones or speakers, you'd be set up for around £400 (around $750 US), with a 23" monitor, wireless keyboard/mouse, and it would all move as if it were just the screen, since the PC would fit on the back of the monitor with the VESA mounting.
... Of course, it's still no substitute for a real desktop (the inability to add a graphics card would be pretty limiting), and I'm not sure how far I'd trust that integrated PSU, but if desktop space/portability is a real concern, then there are ways around that - better ones if you're willing to pay more.
and if you're feeling up to a tiny case sitting on your desktop in exchange for the ability to throw in a GPU at a later date, you could swap the case out for something like the Cooler Master Elite 120 for £40.24 and pick up a nice PSU for ~£35.
I used a 64 GB SanDisk USB drive for over a year without any issues and only upgraded to an external hard drive because it was running out of space. Older USB drives had a much lower tolerance for the number of read/writes they could perform. Newer brand name USB drives have a much higher threshold.
That said, if you can upgrade to an external drive, do it. Here's what I bought and it works great.
WD Hard Drive
USB Hard Drive Enclousure with power supply
For two dollars more I'd rather have 120 gb solid state memory than 1TB hdd.
That's just preference though.
Superdrive hard drive caddy: $9.70
120GB SSD: $60
USB Superdrive enclosure: $14
All in all, $84 to extend the life of your $2k laptop by a few more years. Well worth it in my opinion. Also if you're feeling adventurous, enable a fusion drive on your new dual-drive Mac.
BTW, the physical SSD and caddy option are very easy- just follow the take-apart guide on ifixit.com. It takes about one drink's worth of time to do.
Brand new in box means that its unopened and sealed. Just warning you cause I seen a mod get anal about this earlier. Also you may wish to rethink pricing cause I doubt you'll get 50 straight for this if you can buy it new on Amazon for the same price.
Amazon has a Kingston SSD 120GB for $50 right now.
Pentium g4560 on a H270 board
GTX 1050 (non-ti)
430W EVGA PSU
Corsair Carbide case
And now I regret not using pcpartpicker and just setting it to US & Amazon..
It looks like they have it on Amazon as well for the same price.
It stands for solid-state drive. Instead of using magnetic disks that spin around, it uses flash memory which is a newer, faster technology (like a flash drive/thumb drive/SD card).
The disadvantage is that it's still much more expensive than a regular hard drive, although it has come down a lot lately. This is what I have. I did not upgrade the storage capacity of my console because I was using around half of it. I recommend checking this first in the settings under System.
If you need more space, a hybrid drive is something a lot of people do. These use a tradition disk drive but have a small amount of flash storage (usually 8GB) that holds the most frequently used data. This allows it to load all the data faster, including the stuff on the traditional disk. Here is a frequent choice for that. I've also seen a version I was considering that has 32GB of flash storage. I thought this would be better since Destiny is ~19GB. 32GB should be enough to store the system info for start up as well as all the regular Destiny files. Here is a link to that one. It falls right in the middle of these price points.
You can look up simple directions from Google pretty easily. You'll need a thumb drive to download the PS operating system to for install on the new drive. You'll also want to back up any game saves and other data from your original drive before you do the installation.
The speed jumps are not massive. You can look up some comparisons from a variety of sites and decide if this is for you. I played side-by-side with my brother over the weekend, and I could see the difference, but when your teammates all have to load the maps too, you're not really saving any time. It shaves off seconds. 15% maybe. So much of Destiny's loading time is network based that the benefits are smaller. Games like GTA with huge maps should benefit more.
Yes I highly recommend it. I'm always the first to load into any dungeon on PS4 with my SSHD even against most PC players (I check) and I definitely noticed a difference when teleporting with a friend who has the stock PS4 hard drive.
I'm using http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Solid-Hybrid-2-5-Inch-ST1000LM014/dp/B00B99JUBQ, i've been using that for the 1TB space since I first got my PS4 since i'm going all digital this generation.
The SSHD from Seagate still works.
For the T440s? I would go with following upgrades:
Everything else stock. If you don't need 10 to 12 hours of battery life, you can go for a smaller battery. The 6 cell rear battery will stick out of the bottom. I don't know if you want that. Then I would buy a 4 GB RAM module and a 250 GB Samsung 840 EVO and stick it in instead of the HDD. The prices right now on the 840 EVO series from Samsung are crazy.
the 840 evo 250gb is currently on sale. for ~20 more you can get twice the storage
Crucial M500- $80 new on Newegg
Kingston V300 120gb- $60 new on Amazon (and a crap drive)
Kingston V300 240gb- $75 new on Amazon (and a crap drive)
PNY 32GB MicroSDHC- $18 new on Newegg
PNY 64GB MicroSDHC- $37 new on Newegg
PNY 16GB SDHC- $13 new on Amazon
PNY 32GB SDHC- $15 new on Amazon
PNY 16GB Flash Drive- $6 new on Amazon
Jackery 6000mAh- $30 new on Amazon
Jackery 12000mAh- $40 new on Amazon
Bolt 9000mAh- $40 new on Amazon
Your prices are wack, man.
Not a bad price (you can get on Amazon right now for ~$44), but NOT 80% off.
You can do that. It's just a standard hard drive. I took the 500GB out of my ps4 and put it in my laptop. Also the hard drive that's recommended by /u/tubzgaming is the one that I put in my PS4. Here's a link to the american Amazon if you are in the US.
Some Background for My Opinion:
I do both physical and digital. I probably have about 90 physical games and about 40 digital games (not including PSN and PS2/PSOne Classics). As others have said, physical games are often cheaper, given that you can buy them at used game stores, pawn shops, amazon, ebay, etc. Most of my physical games have been purchased between $4 and $10, with certain collections from around $15 to $20. Digital games, while normally very expensive, can be much cheaper during sales. I've had my PS3 since early 2014, and I've had many instances where I bought a game pretty cheap physically only to have it go on sale digitally few weeks later for even cheaper. And sometimes I even kick myself for buying a game digitally too early because it ends up on sale for even cheaper six months later. Some deals are downright ridiculous. I bought the Mass Effect Trilogy for $5. I recently saw the entire Modern Warfare trilogy, with the initial dlc's for all three games, for $15. This is especially cheap given that one of those dlc's is $15. It's not uncommon to have sales where game of the year bundles (game + dlc's) cost as much, if not less, than the dlc's, themselves. The current Mid Year Sale, ending tomorrow morning, offers many great examples of amazing deals. If I didn't already own many of those classic Sony games, I'd be all over it.
Overall, I'd say that I mostly buy the cheapest format that I can, with a preference towards physical copies when prices are similar. This preference has nothing to do with re-selling games (I'm somewhat of a collector), nor does it have to do with a desire to lend/give them away (I don't have many PS3-playing friends). My preference towards physical games comes from the fact that it is easier and more enjoyable to look at and select a physical game from a collection than to select a digital game from the hard drive. In all honesty, I almost always check my physical library before checking my digital one. That is one less-discussed draw-back of digital games: less visibility.
As far as storage goes, I picked up this [1 TB Seagate Hybrid Drive] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B99JUBQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). I only had a 160 gb drive initially, so I was running out of space just from game installs/patches. A larger drive allowed me to not only download relevant patches and dlc but to more seriously purchase digital games, as well. For $75, it was a very worthwhile investment, especially given that the PS3 will very likely be my last console.
Physical vs Digital?
I'd say that it has more to do with what you are looking to get out of the PS3.
-Do you really like the feeling of looking at, selecting, and handling physical games?
-Do you like going to game stores and/or pawn shops?
-Would you like to lend games to friends and family?
-Do you appreciate the ability to return games that you don't like?
-Are you looking to eventually sell the console and the games?
If some or all of these are true, then physical games might be good for you.
-Do you want to be able to quickly and easily access your games from the couch?
-Do you want to be able to use the games in the event of a hard-drive failure?
-Do you have good internet access?
-Do you think you'd enjoy checking out the weekly deals on the Playstation Store?
-Are you willing to (potentially) invest in a larger hard drive?
-Do you not care about selling games (especially given low re-sale value)?
-Are you interested in keeping the console for the foreseeable future or even for as long as you can?
If some or all of these are true, then digital games might be the way to go.
Overall, maintaining an all-digital or all-physical library would likely end up being more expensive than a mix of the two. It's probably only really advisable if you prefer to not use a disc drive (with a strong preferences towards digital) or if you are an avid collector (with a strong preference for physical).
The best bang for your buck will be a Seagate Laptop SSHD 1TB. They're on Amazon for only $107USD right now. They're nearly as fast as SSDs now (after you load something the first time because it caches to it's built in 8GB SSD), plus you get massively more storage for a very small fraction of the cost of an SSD. This is what I'm doing with my PS4. I have a Intel 520 120GB SSD in my PS3 now, but I plan on going digital with my games on PS4, so I need more storage space.
Here are some links that show what I'm talking about:
Hey man, I don't know much about the SanDisk Extreme II 240GB that's listed there for 139.99, but I know Samsung SSDs are usually highly recommended here and on /r/buildapc. Its on sale right now for the same rate here . If that's your price range, I'd recommend going for that. I got mine last year for $180 and its worth every goddamn cent. Plus the Samsung Magician software that comes with it is pretty sweet.
$119.99 on amazon
Will probably be even cheaper on Black Friday / Cyber Monday...
LINKS FOR EVERYTHING
2 Way SLI - 780 Ti Superclocked edition
Intel i7 3820 3.6GHz
Corsair Hydro Series Extreme Performace Liquid CPU Cooler H100i
2 packs of Corsair Dominator Platinum 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600MHz (PC3 12800) Memory
Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 Motherboard
Samsung 840 EVo 250GB SSD
Beats Pro Over-Ear
Male White Fiberglass Mannequin Head
Oculus Rift Development Kit 2
Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Desk Clamp
Seagate 3TB Barracude
Corsaie Air Series SP120mm Quiet Edition
Rosewill 1000Watt Bronze Certified PSU
NZXT Phantom 630 Gunmetal Edition
Three Acer H236HLbid 23" LCD IPS monitors
Wallart USA Panorama New York
Blue Snowball Microphone
Flexible Gooseneck Microphone Holder
Microphone table clamp
Razer Lycosa Mirror special Edition
Razer Abyssus Optical PC Gaming Mouse
Xbox one controller
IKEA Tables (both 73" and 96" are used)
IKEA Table legs (8 used)
The only thing I've picked up is this SSD from Amazon (comes with FC4!)
I recently swapped from a single SATA3 physical disc to a pair of SATA3 solid state discs (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W1726/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) in RAID0. KSP load time did not change much, seems to be processor bound rather than memory or IO bound.
Other apps load incredibly fast. Especially warcraft.
For s a starter server, I would suggest a Lenovo t140 and add as much storage as you needed, or start with two of these Western Digital 1TB Blues.
Every store store does this unfortunately.
At this moment Amazon is trying to tell me a WD Blue 1TB is on sale for $49.99 and the retail price is $109.99.
First things first- a Solid State Drive(From now on referred to as SSD) is a storage device with relatively high speeds and lower potential storage capacity for the price, compared to a Hard Disc Drive(Now on referred to as HDD).
You’re generally not going to need an SSD for most games, as the speed of storage isn’t really dependant on your storage. Most data used by programs is loaded into RAM, which is much faster. The only benefits are cases where you may have a game with long loading times because there’s a lot of content to load into the RAM. This is fine though, sometimes it’s nice to have those short loading times for multiplayer games. In actuality, it’s best to have an SSD for operating system storage, so instead of a computer taking a few minutes to start up, it only takes a few seconds.
There are two product types of SSD you can purchase, and two form factors (sizes) you can purchase. If you can update with which case and motherboard you have(and also any other storage that’s coming with the computer, I could have a better idea of what you have to work with, however you’re probably looking for something along the lines of SATA, 2.5” and around 500gb. This is a good option if you have one(or more) HDDs to store pictures, videos, documents, etc.
If you don’t have other storage devices, a 1tb equivalent would be preferable. Alternatively, you could purchase the 500gb SSD and some HDDs to back it up. Or even go a bit further and only purchase a 250gb SSD to hold ONLY your OS and a couple other things.
In terms of price, keep in mind that price for digital storage(SSD) has dropped significantly in the last year, and is forecasted to drop another 10% this year possibly.
TL;DR: Search “500gb SATA 2.5 SSD” online and buy anything from Samsung, Western Digital, Crucial or ADATA.
Hope this helps!
Get SSD for windows and 1TB HDD for rest.
No, they're the same. Normally it's recommended to pick a small SSD ~250GB for the OS and everyday programs and then 1TB HDD for the rest of your media files like photos, videos and games.
Anyone who has suffered a failed hard drive will tell you its not worth it. there is a reason there are 100s of hardware/cloud backup companies making sick profits. Spend $20 more and get a new 1tb seagate with 64mb of cache
"Planned obsolescence" is a term constructed by evil people in order to agitate amongst stupid people.
There is no grand conspiracy involving all the world's designers and engineers to deliberately sabotage products and make them fail earlier.
Sure, sometimes products are made in a way that the maker knows they are going to fail some years down the line. But that comes from making them cheap. You can buy more expensive products, with more expensive materials and design processes, that last longer.
A Western Digital Blue hard drive has a 2-year warranty. A HGST Ultrastar made by the same company has a 5-year warranty. Have they deliberately sabotaged the Blue one? No, they have used a package of manufacturing process, materials and design effort that bring both cheapness and lower expected lifespan.
In short: No, no smart and honest engineer could take the design schematic of the iPhone 7 or Samsung S8 and make it last longer and be better with no downsides. There is no "sabotage" or "conspiracy", only tradeoffs.
People love violence and reasons to hate and be angry. The conspiracy theory of 'planned obsolesence' gives them an excuse to embrace rage. And a vote gathered through conspiracy theories, envy, hate and myths, is as good to a political cause as any other.
I posted a few times on here and wanted to give an update for people who had the B450 Tomahawk. I just returned mine to Best Buy yesterday and bought the B450 Gaming Plus off of Amazon. I took it out, plugged the ATX 24 pin power into it and flashed it with the most recent gaming plus USB once. The red CPU light was still on when it restarted, and I turned it off. Put everything back into my case and booted up and worked with no issues.
I am installing windows now. My specs:
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X 8GB) DDR4 3000 (PC4-24000) C16 1.35V Desktop Memory - Black PC Memory CMK16GX4M2D3000C16
WD Blue 1TB PC Hard Drive - 7200 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache, 3.5" - WD10EZEX
Thermaltake Smart 700W 80+ White Certified PSU, Continuous Power with 120mm Ultra Quiet Fan, ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0700NPCWUS-W
Rosewill ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case with Side Window, Gaming Case with LED for Desktop/ PC including 3 x 120mm Fans for Outstanding Ventilation, 2 X USB 3.0 Ports (BRADLEY M)
Ryzen 5 3600
AMD GeForce GTX1050Ti GPU
B450 Gaming Plus.
They're all over Amazon.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB - $168
Crucial MX500 1TB - $160
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB - $150
SanDisk 1TB Ultra - $160
Yes any 2.5”. The real question is why that drive ... it looks pretty crappy. You can afford a pro then why cheapen the experience.
Get this one...
Samsung 860 Evo. Probably the best sata SSD. Choose your size.
If you want to save a bit of money, search 'Crucial MX500.' You won't notice the performance difference in real use, it's within 5% of the samsung
You can try removing 3rd party programs (monitors, boosters, etc.)
In a more extreme case you can try doing a Windows 10 Refresh, which will remove any bloatware running under the hood:
Even though you said otherwise, I will tell you anyway that most people are going to look at that 5400RPM game drive and point to that has the culprit:
One of the drives based off the reference phison E12 design like sabrent rocket or silicon power p34a80
TLC nand (not qlc like 660)
Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB)
sabrent 1TB NVME just 99$:
as ssd benchmark:
You can, but if you want to use for example 960 gig SSD, it probably has to be the same one that Red uses.
There is NO technical reason for this, but they most likely detect the SSD firmware version / SSD manufacturer for the drive and then artificially prevent other SSD drives running.
Currently 960 GB Red Mini-Mag costs about 2500 dollars.
While at the same time:
... you can get same size SSD drive for 100 dollars. So only about 24X (!!!) markup from Red. And that 100 dollar SSD has at least 10 times faster write speed.
500 GB Samsung SSD for $70
1 TB Samsung SSD for $140
And those are name-brand prices.
Samsung T5 500gb for $100
u/H_anzz - to get started with weddings and music videos on a $2,000 budget I recommend a $1,295 Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera 4K with a $69.99 Neewer 35mm f/1.7 manual lens, a $379 Feiyutech AK2000 gimbal, a $79.99 SmallRig cage, a $25.99 SmallRig SSD mount, an $89.99 500GB Samsung SSD, a $19.99 SmallRig battery plate, a $24.50 12V to Weipu cable and a $31.99 set of two NP-F batteries & a dual charger [Referrals].
This is a cinema camera with true 4K DCI resolution, 13-stops of dynamic range and internally recorded pro 12-bit RAW and 10-bit ProRes codecs.
Here's the BMPCC 4K flying on the Feiyutech AK2000:
Here is an example shot with the BMPCC 4K and a Neewer 35mm f/1.7 lens (plus an Oly 12-40):
The BMPCC 4K is also a great camera for weddings and music videos. Here are a few examples:
If you decide to go with the Pocket 4K, you might want to subscribe over at r/bmpcc and r/blackmagicdesign - lots of knowledgeable folks there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.
Good luck finding the right setup for your needs!
External SSDs are about $20 more expensive for 500G SSDs
Even without a laptop I have a separate SSD for games, so I highly recommend :)
I bought this. It connects via USB.
SSDs are cheap now, so no...
I got a 120gb Kingston for $28 Canadian back in February on Amazon. You'll probably have to wait for sales, but it shouldn't be too hard. Especially with black friday/cyber Monday coming up. I've seen the same drive I got for $19.99 CAD a couple times since, too.
Keep an eye on /r/buildapcsales
This is the one I got. The regular price is now $30 CAD: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N6JQS8C/
This is the enclosure if interested: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IWOZAAQ/
Or just go to USB with Hassbian or Raspbian w/ Hassio installed.
This $25 setup for a reliable SSD is what I recommend.
Kingston 120GB A400 SSD 2.5'' SATA 7MM 2.5-Inch SA400S37/120G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xp7SCbB80ZT6B
USB 2.0 to SATA 7+15 Pin 22Pin Adapter Cable For 2.5" HDD Hard Disk Drive by BLUECELL https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YLNTPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1p7SCbA5ETVWE
Buy an SSD. Shop around and find something cheap, but for the most part, something that will cover Win7 or Win10 and your most anticipated sims.
We don't know anything else about that machine, e.g., amount of ram, etc., and based on it being a Win7 system to start, it probably could do for more of that too. That said, it's practically impossible to provide a good roadmap of getting a simracing-ready pc with no little knowledge of the actual system and your budget.
I'm also hesitant to think you got a "gaming pc" if they were using it for 3d scanning software...but you're going to instead rely on a gtx750 you just were given. That is, I wouldn't call any system with a gfx card weaker than a 750 a gaming pc.
Check out /r/buildapc, too, and be sure to let people know how much money you can put into it; they might have more combined expertise to get you up and running.
For lightning iPad models:
For USB-C iPads:
Just plug in USB-C key or external drive
I’ve tested it all working on iPad OS on a second gen iPad Pro with lightning connector. I recommend the T5 SSD’s from Samsung (Samsung T5 Portable SSD 500GB USB... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B073GZBT36?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share). Fastest I’ve tested so far. Close to 500Mb/s write speeds.
Also recommend having double ended USB-A/USB-C key (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07KCH1HQT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_74esDbT66ZS7J) also tested working on iPad OS.
I noticed you didn't mention an SSD. You will absolutely need to get one of those, these days there's no excuse not to with a budget of $1k. I would recommend the Samsung 840 Evo. I have the older 840 and I've recommended Evos for both my friend's recent builds, they've had no issues with them at all so far.
I would install your OS and a couple most-played games on the SSD. Make sure to move your documents and temp folder to the HDD. Don't forget to install whatever programs you use on the secondary drives because the SSD will fill up fast if you don't.
Other than that, this is a strong build. Others here will be able to give better recommendations on any changes to the Mobo/CPU, but the most important thing would be the SSD.
I'd say get an ASUS N550JK and put a Samsung 840 Evo into it. You'd have a really high quality multimedia laptop with a beautiful IPS display, a quad-core i7, 8GB RAM, and a fast SSD for well under budget.
If you want more portability and a higher res display with more RAM and battery life, the Dell XPS 15 is also right up your alley. It weighs only 4.4lbs, is .7" thin, and can get up to 11 hours of battery life. It has a 512GB SSD and 16GB RAM with a 15.6" 3200x1800 IPS display.
For both the PS4 regular and PS4 Pro SSHD and SSD drives are currently not worth the premium price really. There are some major improvements in load times for an SSD, but only for Pro mode games. Maybe the drives will become a better value as the Pro mode library increases.
This is a really good deal on a hybrid, but you can get one of the most recommended PS4 drives for $80 right now. There's even a great guide for doing it yourself from /r/PS4.
EDIT: After a discussion with /u/PureNintendoHype it was pointed that there are indeed very noticeable benefits for an SSD in Pro mode games. Maybe as the library for Pro support gets bigger the upgrade will be a better investment. I'm just not sold on the premium price and small storage space tradeoffs yet.
this guy but look for a better deal. on sale i've seen it at 70ish.
bonus is you get a usb 3.0 external enclosure for your 500gb.
you just need to pry it open, peel off the foil tape and slide off the adapter board.
it's cheaper to buy this than the drive inside for some dumb reason.
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive with 200GB of Cloud Storage & Mobile Device Backup USB 3.0
It was extremely easy to install. I made it difficult because I wanted to keep the PT demo so I deleted every game but PT and the save files and made a backup, installed the hard drive and installed every game and updates I owned taking all night and half a day to do, then I forgot to restore the backup, causing me to download everything all over again. That was fun
I have about 300GB of free space after it was all said and done.
this is for ungrading the internal PS4 hard drive. and there are indeed cheaper portable drives that contain hard drives you can use as an internal PS4 hard drive. I used this one, but at the time I bought it, the price was $70, which made it more worth the hassle.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;s=computers this or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTSK4/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_nWa1tb1RH553YA57 and here is the video for the seagate https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I6eV3pEXKgo
I replaced with an internal. It's a little more expensive, and more time consuming to set up, because you have to make a whole system backup, but I think it's faster in the long run. It puts everything on one volume, so you don't have to mess with menu settings to move installs from one drive to the other.
I personally used the Seagate Firecuda laptop drive with 2TB of storage. I got mine off Amazon for less than $100.
That is their latest and fastest model. It was just released about a month ago.
Just get a hybrid drive if you are on regular ps4. Save u some money n get space https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M1NHCZT/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523879547&amp;sr=8-1-spell&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hybrid+hhd+laptpp
30usd for 240GB SSD is not expensive (or 18usd for 120gb model)
yes, if you need more storage, go with HDD - but dont then complain how games load slower on it
SSDs even ship on cheapest laptops now, I'd consider them standard
So this won't meet all of your requirements; but if Cheap is #1; then it might be a workable solution.
The HP Microserver is about the size of a toaster, standing up on it's end - so it's space efficient & uses AMD's Mobile processors for reduced power requriements: Pairing that with a couple of half height INTEL nics and a cheap SSD, I had PFsense up and running in under an hour. My internet speeds are about the same as what you quoted above. As far as build time, it took me longer to open up the microserver than it did to install the software; and then learning PFSense has been an adventure; but it sounds like you're already familiar with that. The microserver has an onboard NIC, if you add the two Intel half-heights you can support a local network +DMZ in whatever flavor you want. Sounds like you might need those to be SFPs - but if you can reuse the ones from your old Firewall it might be a workable solution.
For the parts below your looking at about $130.00 - maybe less if you have an old SSD laying around? or opt to use an older hard drive?
This is what I bought:
If you have the means my suggestion would be buy an SSD and reinstall Win 10 on that. Even a budget SSD sill smoke those Barracudas.
I don't know anything about this drive but Kingston is typically a 1/2 decent brand and this is cheap.
At the end of the day you're still rocking at a 10 year old PC though, s results may vary.
Your use case seems pretty niche then. I'd consider myself a power user, and i've barely used 1TB of storage on my system. A 500GB SSD, and something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-1TB-Laptop-Hard-Drive/dp/B00DCM91WQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465612298&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=7mm+hdd) would be enough for most people, and [this would be good enough for most of the rest] (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Seagate-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST2000LM003/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465612418&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=9mm&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A4990425011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A8067152011)
Obviously 5400rpm will be balls for people who work with media, but for purely consumption, it should be fine.
I've seen HDDs installed in ODD bays before, but only on Macs. Never thought about doing it on an Alienware. Might be easy, might be hard, might be impossible. This would be especially true if the ODD was a slot-loader.
Easiest thing I can recommend would be to get a 1TB 2.5"-wide 9.5MM-tall HDD, and clone your current OS onto it using a USB-to-SATA Cloning Kit (generally ~$15-$25). That'll leave you 3/4 of a terabyte left over for everything else you need.
Heck, you can even get this 2TB drive which should fit in your system just fine (2.5"-wide, 9.5mm-tall).
Not as cheap as the method provided by the OP but if you don't want the hassle of opening a device and taking the HDD out you can buy this 2tb HDD from Samsung for £89.99 that works on the PS4.
It's £30 more than the Eurogamer method but you're paying that extra money for the convenience and so replacing the HDD is hassle free.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, get yourself one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003-Notebook/dp/B00I8O6OQ4
It's discounted on price and it's one of the only 2TB HDDs that the PS4 can fit. It's also ridiculously easy to install, Sony even has a guide to upgrading your HDD on their website.
Samsung Seagate 2TB
It's a laptop hard drive with a casing. Remove the casing and you'll have a hard drive that can be used on the PS4. Or you can purchase the Seagate 2TB hard drive which is the same drive that's on the Seagate Backup Plus but without the external enclosure and more expensive.
I bought this one from Amazon. I’ve had it for a little over a year and have had zero problems. Prime day is coming so you may even get lucky and find it (or something similar) on sale.
Can someone explain the difference between this hard drive and the typical Seagate hard drive? Is one of them better?
-PC itself is a pre-built(Don't kill me. I got a great deal) MSI Aegis 3
-2x Asus monitors Asus MG248Q and Asus VX238H
-Headset is a Logitech G430 that I've swapped the earpads with these
-Razer Deathadder Elite
-Keyboard is MSI Interceptor 4200 (came with the PC, planning on upgrading)
SanDisk as a brand isn't bad, but COULD BE better. See if you can spring for a Samsung drive. It's not like it's C or D tier, but Sandisk isn't A tier that's for sure. The MSI board you've chosen is probably fine; but we've seen some issues with reliability over time - especially with the more budget-focused sub 100 dollar boards.
GPU is a bargain. Great cooling on it. Phanteks is kicking butt in the case market these days. Corsair always amazing -- BUT their TXM line is NOT high quality. It's built by a third party manufacturer last I checked.
See if you can spring for an EVGA G3. Worlds better quality.
Have you checked Amazon? They usually have these SSDs along the same price tag. I’ve seen them 85-100$ USD. There’s a Western Digital version of that SSD for about 88$ USD. There’s also a Crucial version of that SSD for about 88$ USD on Amazon. Not sure if it’s more expensive in AUS on Amazon. Hope I helped.
Edit: I’ll link you the items I’m talking about
This is the WD model
WD Blue 3D NAND 500GB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s 2.5"/7mm Solid State Drive - WDS500G2B0A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SBZ8YH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I9xPBb4VDW1BD
I personally own the WD one and it’s been pretty good so far.
Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD1(Z) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784SLQM6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.xPBb0HSAM8T
My friend owns the Crucial model and has told me good things about it.
Here is the Samsung model you’re looking for
Samsung 860 Evo 500GB 2.5 inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AbyPBbF2HH21P
The WD and Crucial models read and write faster than the Samsung model according to the info on Amazon. And they’re cheaper. WD also has a M.2 2280 version of the SSD which is easier to install IMO and it’s the same price.
so how many exactly? what system would actually profit by this? oems cut costs for every cent. the new optane is ~77$ for 32gb. that already gets you a 240gb ssd (https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-SDSSDA-240G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G43WU/ref=pd_cp_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01F9G43WU&amp;pd_rd_r=4ASW9036YW134MWVXZW3&amp;pd_rd_w=2IcWX&amp;pd_rd_wg=sRbZu&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4ASW9036YW134MWVXZW3)
add a 1tb drive to that for around ~50 and you can already go for a 500gb ssd main drive. it makes absolutely no sense in a consumer world at all.
Reaper doesn't have any system requirements as such, if your device can run an OS, it can run Reaper, that's basically it.
The better the processor you have the more plugins and effects you can use. The more RAM you have the more plugins you can load in or libraries you can use at the same time. If you can get hold of an audio interface it will give you an improved latency.
Might need to aim for a used laptop so check gumtree and such. Go for as fast a processor as possible with multiple cores, as much RAM as you can get, and ideally an SSD drive.
To give you and idea I picked up a used dual-core laptop with 4 GB Ram for ~£150 and installed a new 60GB SSD [£40 at the time] into it, something like this. I only use it for mic recording via Reaper and watching The Simpsons, but I'm certain it can handle a view plugins and some MIDI.
They're $205 currently on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-External-STEB8000100/dp/B01HAPGEIE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482265360&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=8tb.
I've never paid more than $100 for 5TB and $200 for 8TB. You mostly just have to wait for deals on externals and then shuck them. If you are in it for the long haul, it is worth saving money shucking as long as you have a backup. Example for $750 you could get 6 x 5TB of shucked Seagate drives. You would only be able to get 3 x 5TB of WD Red.
I'm a huge fan of WD Reds, but you can buy two of these Seagate externals and save $100. They have an ST8000AS0002 in them.
Check out Crucial.
Same size as your existing HDD but instead of 5400 RPM you'll have SSD performance. Crucial is well-regarded and you're going to see a huge improvement in performance. Boot time, app start-up/shut-down, game load time, etc. All will be better.
If you're serious about doing it right you'll do a fresh install of Windows in case you're harboring something on your existing setup. If not, a clone will be OK too.
Also available on Amazon for $120.
Dell Optiplex 3010 MT Intel Core i5 3470 3.2GHz 8GB RAM 1TB - $139.95
Manli Geforce GTX 1060 6GB Gallardo Graphics Card GPU Nvidia - $144.99
SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Internal SSD - $33.99
Windows 10 Pro license key - $3.95
Total = $322.88
Sure, here's a super cheap SSD of equivalent capacity:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm - SDSSDA-240G-G26
If you want to get a different SSD, just make sure it's a 2.5in SATA. I like SanDisk, Samsung and Intel brand SSD's.
Here's a 4gb Stick that should be compatible (don't hold me to that, and make sure you can return it if it isn't):
Lenovo 55Y3711 RAM Module - 4 GB - DDR3 SDRAM - 1333MHz DDR3-1333/PC3-10600 - ECC - 204-pin SoDIMM
That will get you up to 8GB or 6GB, depending on if it comes with 1 4gb or 2 2gb sticks. Either will be better than 4.
And here's some generic info and resources I like to give new Linux users:
The biggest change from the Windows world will be the different interfaces to choose from. While they're one of the best features of Linux, the number of choices and strong opinions on the matter can be overwhelming to new users. And everyone in the community is certain that theirs is the best. Don't stress out about picking the "right" one. You can always change it later (especially if you choose something Ubuntu based). Pick one that has a large user base, good community, and excellent documentation.
Linux comes in many different flavors, or "Distributions". Often shortened to "Distros". The most obvious difference between Distros is the interface (or "Desktop Environment" or "DE"). It's not the only thing that sets them apart, but it's the most noticeable.
I would recommend Ubuntu or any one of it's variants. The best variants (in my opinion) are Linux mint and Linux Lite. Linux Lite having the most "Windows like" interface. Linux Lite also has additional tools to install common programs that Windows users are accustomed to. Ones that don't come with other Distros by default.
Until recently Ubuntu used an interface called "Unity". As of the last couple of releases, they have switched to Gnome. However, they've made gnome look a lot like Unity, so you should be able to follow instructions you find on the internet without too much trouble.
Gnome has a ton of customizations available via the "Gnome extensions" website. If you're willing to relearn how to interact with your computer's interface, it's a good fit for someone who wants customization.
Here's a good article with the basics of getting up and running with Ubuntu.
Here's Ubuntu's website for downloading and documentation:
The official "Getting starting" guide:
Here's the list of official Ubuntu Distributions:
Here's a great article explaining the difference between the official Ubuntu Distribution (written by an awesome Redditor Killyourfm):
"Forbes: Linux For Beginners: Understanding The Many Versions Of Ubuntu":
Here's the official install guide:
An install guide for Dual Booting:
And here's Linux Lite's official page:
Highly recommend you skip the 500GB HDD and go with a smaller SSD. It's going to be dog-slow on a conventional drive with boot times in the absolute shitter, even if it's got a tiny bit of hybrid cache, and that is a ridiculously expensive drive for only 500GB too.
For instance this one or even this will be a million times better and is the absolute must-change for this build.
She can always get an external drive for large cheap slow storage once she runs out of space.
To use the newest Chrome on Mac, you'll need OS X Mavericks 10.9 or later.
You can upgrade to 10.11 (El Capitan). Sadly, this will most probably slow down your computer in its current state. Like /u/Nera2626 said, you can upgrade the hardware as well, which will help with the speed on the newer OS versions. The maximum memory your laptop accepts is 8GB of PC3-8500 DDR3 1066 MHz (SO-DIMM) RAM. An SSD wil further increase speed.
Edit: Not really sure where you're from, but here's a list on Amazon:
So you could be back on track for less than $150 if you know someone that can help you install it.
I would recommend installing an SSD as your boot drive, and you can install those same files onto the SSD, and then using the 1TB drive as storage, in the ultrabay. (Ultrabay is the 'port' where the CD/DVD drive currently would be installed)
You can buy a cheap adapter here, and a good cheap SSD here.
Good luck! W530 is a great machine :D
Literally less than 40 bucks. You can also get them as USB3 external ones and run siege fine.
Pretty solid deal but I grabbed this instead:
Faster shipping and more reputable IMO.
I don’t have an easy answer for you. I have been looking for an 8TB drive for some time now myself, and have spent far too much time comparing options. I would love to hear everyone’s opinion!
I also haven’t looked that much at encryption, hopefully someone here knows more about that part.
Seagate Expansion STEB8000100
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HAPGEIE/ - $150
Lacie Porsche Design USB-C STFE8000401
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VP1PJX - $220
HDD (probably, based on forum reports): Seagate Archive HDD ST8000AS0002 (SMR)
Seagate Game Drive Desktop 8TB STGG8000400 – ($240)
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07173WR4B - £165 (couldn’t find on Amazon.com)
HDD (probably): Seagate Barracuda (non-pro) ST8000DM004 (SMR)
Seagate Backup Plus Hub STEL8000100
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6 - $155
Seagate Backup Plus Hub STEL8000200
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01IAD5ZC6 - £158
(see https://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/7875/seagate-backup-plus-hub-8tb-external-drive-review/index.html, https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/7fbkh3/the_seagate_backup_plus_8tb_no_longer_have_the/)
Internal 3.5” + USB Enclosure - $300
HDD (e.g.): Seagate Barracuda Pro ST8000DM0004 (PMR Helium)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07211QYRC - $280
or HGST Ultrastar He8 HUH728080ALE600 (PMR Helium)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q1IZJD8 - $240
Enclosure (e.g.): Ugreen 3.5” Hard Drive Enclosure
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076WQHK2G - $20
Also HDD lottery.
WD My Book
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQQHLGC - $170
Reports vary all over the place. Very old reports say HGST Enterprise Helium (Early 2016), Older reports (Mid 2016) say WD Red WD80EZZX (Good), newer reports (2017) say it’s a lower-performance white-label drive, some call it a WD Blue (?).
(see https://www.pcper.com/reviews/Storage/HGST-Enterprise-He8-HDD-Found-Early-Retail-8TB-WD-My-Book, http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/776633-8TB-WDBFJK0080HBK-NESN-vs-WDBBGB0080HBK-NESN, https://tinkertry.com/liberate-western-digital-8tb-from-external-drive-enclosure-to-save-big)
This was quickly put together. Comments and suggestions welcome! :-)
that would be 16TB.
if you wanted to store historical blockchain data for sentimental reasons rather than pruning at a sensible height, you could do so for $380/yr on hard drives if, for some reason, prices don't continue to go down.
I will also add that it is very presumptuous to assume that bitcoin will handle all transactions, when it is already #2 to other crypto.
8 TB seagates externals are on sale at Amazon for 150 Just shuck the drive and you're good to go :P or keep it external.
Or get a mybook for 170, shuck it and keep the enclosure and you're ok for warranty. Just put the drive back into it before you ship it back and say you had to take it out for data recovery.
Amazon may have them too although from what i have seen WD's on Amazon don't go on sale as often as Seagate's I usually get these from amazon however they are SMR. These drives are best for WORM (Write once read many) storage and since my use is all media im okay with it. If you start getting into swapping large amounts of data writes can be considerably slower. At any rate you will just have to see what available on your end but personally id go that route or similar.
You can order the 3 below together ($153.99+$160.99+$160.99):
Seagate Expansion 8TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0
Seagate Backup Plus Hub for Mac 8TB External Desktop Hard Drive
Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB External Desktop Hard Drive Storage
I’m am bit of a lurker so forgive me if this is somewhere obvious but it looks like there is a Seagate drive for the same price on amazon. Should I expect a difference in them?
Seagate Expansion 8TB Desktop External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEB8000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HAPGEIE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pa5ACbYPBK60Z
Western Digital has a 8TB external HDD. that's the largest the PS4 can support as far as I know.
Seagate 8TB external drive for $130, than you shuck the drive.
Is there a significance between the WD 8tb and this Seagate 8tb for the same price?
230.97 can - 8tb shipping fees to Canada Included
Go for the 8TB drives, they're cheaper per TB and 10TB is about the min to see anything remotely meaningful every day. There is a mining calculator in the sidebar.
2 of these would do you well. Also, you'll want to set up a full node.
I use two of these. They're 150 each on Amazon. It's over 100, but you get what you pay for.
The one linked is back-ordered but I believe this is a very similar drive and should be shuckable as well. Also $140 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HAPGEIE/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Is it a "Late 2012" model with 4 USB 3 ports?
Here's what I'm doing with a similar Mac mini...
I have 8 * 8TB Drives. 4 are live and 4 are used as cloned backups. This supports my 32TB library. I just keep adding in pairs, and I'm about to add 2 more.
Just add USB hubs if you need more ports. This is what I'm using. There are other hubs with more ports, but this meets my needs.
I then connect these drives in pairs. I currently have 8 of them in use. I have 1 in standby in case one of the others ever fails, I can bring it into use. I travel a lot, so being able to do that remotely is nice.
I run Carbon Copy Cloner to clone the drives instead of Time Machine. This allows me to schedule exactly when I want them cloning or I can manually click a button to clone on demand if I've just updated the library. It will send email alerts and notifications if there's a problem, and it will optionally mount/unmount the cloned drive (as well as other actions/scripts).
Really this is all a super easy way to go without any network issues you may encounter with a NAS.
There are some downsides as ultimately NAS/RAID can be less expensive and certainly less cluttered. My whole set up is in a giant server cabinet which houses a bunch of other equipment in for our home theater and the rest of the house, so that's not an issue.
Seems they are SMR drives.
Ether WD Easystore or Seagate Expansion 8TB is fine
No one can guarantee you these drives won't fail , all hard drive will fail sooner or later and you will lose data if you don't have a backup .
If you live in the US , Amazon warehouse has some refurbished Seagate Expansion 8TB right now , $127 a pop .
The HP's screen is probably much better: IPS on the HP vs TN (check the reviews on the Dell site). You're also right to be concerned about battery life, the HP has a slightly smaller battery, 61 Wh vs 74 Wh. I'd expect about 5 hours on the HP to 6 hours on the Dell, but that's just an educated guess.
Honestly, unless you can afford to upgrade the Dell's screen, I'd go for the HP for the screen and savings. You can even put the money saved towards an SSD and swap out the hard drive; that is a upgrade that can make miles of difference compared to anything else you can reasonably change about these two models. For example: SSD
EDIT: It looks like the laptops actually have two storage slots. You also have the option of adding in an SSD into the second slot like this one and installing Windows onto it, while keeping the 1 TB HDD as storage for videos, games, etc.
If you'd like to read more about the HP here. This has last year's 960M graphics card, but it looks like everything else about it is the same.
The MX300 520 GB is still $162 and eligible for 1 day shipping
this is a good deal on a 525 and crucial makes good drives
Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB
Crucial MX300 525 GB
SanDisk Ultra II 480 GB
How does this compare to the Crucial BX200 480GB on for $139?
$40 more than this and better performance. You do realize people do more than game, right?
It's also 149.99 at Amazon with free shipping https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IAGSD68/?tag=pcp0f-20
Something like this IMO brand doesn't matter so long as they are a known brand, take your pick with the capacity you need
I just looked on Amazon and it is there. I went to the site and the price went up instantly but I found it to the right under compare offers on Amazon, just like OP mentions. Here is the link if it works, if not try what I just said. They are temporarily o.o.s atm.
Che, no es por llevarles la contra, pero hice la comparacion de una compra de hace 15 dias (hdd 6tb y ssd 500gb a €369) con lo que saldria hoy (€365.97). No hay casi diferencia de precios
Links: HDD - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01LZDFMWQ (pongan el de amazon, porlas)
SSD - https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01IAGSD68
I think he means Amazon has had it on sale at this price for a while. It looks like since August 19th.
I'd recommend following this: http://imgur.com/a/9giKA
As for the hard drive, this one has worked great for me: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000100/dp/B00FRHTSK4
I have never seen this go below 99.99 though and the drive inside that is ps4 compatible
Buy an external USB and you're good to go with a 4GB model.
You can get a 2TB drive for $120
1)not difficult at all
best drive for the PS4 right now in terms of largest amount of memory.
3) after the install of the ps4 firmware, you have about 1768 GB'S left. usually a game is anywhere from 20-50 GB's so you're looking at being able to hold 50+ FULL games. (just an estimate). Indie games however are much smaller so you can also throw in a lot more of those while not worrying about space.
4)No. Sony encourages you to upgrade your Hard drive if your heart desires. It does not cancel your warranty.
5)If you have PS plus you can transfer all your saved game data to the cloud, otherwise you can save all your saved data to a usb external hard drive and then transfer it back once you have your new hard drive in.
im going to buy the 2 TB hard drive i just linked you to. It's price is great and im looking forward to putting my ps4 hard drive into my ps3 so i can finally download some more free ps plus games.
Why not go with this? $89.99and you can re-use the enclosure with the PS4's original drive afterward. There is a guide here as to how the whole replacement is done, and it looks as though you only need a Phillips head screwdriver.
Edit: I may have meant to link the Slim drive. Perhaps the other one isn't 9.5mm. $99.99, still saves a bit versus your original post.
Edit: Last one, I promise. I checked my saved posts and found a more thorough guide. It looks as though that user went with the Slim drive linked in my first edit. It shows literally every step, and confirms that it's just a Phillips head for the replacement. Opening the external drive, however, will require a Flathead. Still, nothing that most homes shouldn't have.
Here is a direct link to the album created by /u/mbrellisford. Here is a link to the thread in /r/PS4. He details the writeup to be able to replace the PS4 harddrive with a 2TB portable slim external and replace the external with the 500GB that you take out of the PS4. That was my favorite part; in the end, you get a 2TB PS4 and a 500GB external slim harddrive if you want it.
Edit: Here is an amazon link to the exact harddrive that /u/mbrellisford uses in the write up. I bought this one, as well, and have had no issues.
Yes. It supports up to 3TB USB 3.0 HDD's. (format it in NTFS format). I use a 2TB Seagate Backup Plus, (available at Amazon for $79.95), and it works great. :)
As a side benefit, it includes 200GB of OneDrive storage for 2 years. Just hook up the drive to your computer, (only need to do it once), and use the setup application once. After that's done, you're free to format it and take it over to your iView 3500STBII.
Or if you want to swap internal drives:
Hard drive enclosure so you can use the old 500gb drive as a new external drive if you reformat it.
if your looking for a replacement drive check out this one
take it out of the case and use it as an internal drive
Not sure if I misread you, but RPI's XPS 15 configuration has a 512 GB SSD. I've found a 2TB external hard drive to be sufficient and am currently using this one from Seagate.
Edit: Accidentally a word.
Dude this item was $120 and $30 off 2 weeks ago (when I bought it).
Now it's "originally" $160 and only $8 cheaper than it was two weeks ago.
I believe this is the relevant hard drive
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive with Mobile Device Backup USB 3.0 (Black) STDR2000100
That one is a favorite of mine. It's small and doesn't need to be plugged into the wall.
A guide is in the sidebar as well. I purchased mine a year ago and it was a great decision. You won't regret it. Not having to delete games is amazing.
On PlayStation you can do an external or internal SSD. Internal is going to be a bit faster because it's not limited by USB, and it also gives an advantage outside of games because the PS4 OS will be on the internal drive so navigating PSN menus etc is faster.
For ease of use and storage space, most people go with an external Samsung T5.
$89 500GB: Samsung T5 Portable SSD - 500GB - USB 3.1 External SSD (MU-PA500B/AM), Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GZBT36/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_2SVWDbH9TPBBJ
If you want the performance at the cheapest price and you're not worried about storage space, this Sandisk 500GB internal SSD is the best option at $65: SanDisk Ultra 3D NAND 500GB Internal SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, 2.5"/7mm, Up to 560 MB/s - SDSSDH3-500G-G25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072R78B6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_qnVWDbC2C83DW
I have the Sandisk but the Samsung 860 internal is on sale right now at $70: Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E500B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_SUVWDbF7JK7ZW
There are 1TB and higher available in all of the above as well.
Definitely go with the 15". The performance difference is measurable and you want the RAM, 8GB doesn't cut it for very long in my python coding experience. I currently use the exact same 13" model you linked, only reason being my university has pretty small desks otherwise I would've gone with the 15".
As for the difference between the 2016 and 2017, there is a small spec bump and you'll get better battery life. Plus if you pair it with an external SSD then you won't have to compromise on storage either. However if that sounds like something you're averse to, the 2016 model isn't bad at all.
Yes :) here they are:
Mounting plate: link
Manfrotto Quick Release Plate : link
Follow focus: link
Rods(16" & 6") link
Lens support: link
Shoulder pad: link
Rod clamp: link
Cold Shoe mount: link
To hold the battery I used this rod clamp: link and this plate: link
To connect the battery to the BMPCC 4k I used these cables and the charging cable from the camera to make an adapter: link to cables
Magic arm to hold the monitor: link
Samsung SSD 500gb: link
SSD holder: link
HDMI cable: link
BMPCC 4k cage: link
I'm using the Sigma 18-35mm (Nikon) and the Viltrox 0.71X Lens Mount Adapter: link
I think that's it :)
Yes, I use this:
To store games. Only game that gave me problems was Xcom. It installed on my USB but not the external ssd.
The items in this rig:
Everything is powered off the Powerextra NP-F970 Battery.
$119.99 ADATA USA Ultimate Su800 1TB 3D Nand 2.5 Inch SATA
$94.99 Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA III 500GB Internal SSD
$449.99 Garmin Fenix 5
Solid State Drive, it is many times faster than your hdd, (Hard Disk Drive), and it WILL make your computer feel many times faster.
Edit: Your motherboard doesn't have a M.2 slot, so you will have to get a Sata SSD (Such as the WD Blue or the Samsung 860 Evo)
Edit 2: You could get a M.2 to PCIe adapter and a decent NVMe SSD (Such as the Intel 660p), this is by far the best option.
Honestly.... pick up a refurb mass produced computer such as an optiplex or the like and throw an SSD in there. Not sure of availability in india, but that is usually the way to go for cheap builds.
Ninja edit- something like this...
Ninja edit2- ....with this in it
/r/SuggestALaptop is an entire community dedicated to keeping up to date on the latest models and deals on laptops.
I highly encourage you to go ask there.
I am a huge fan of refurbished Lenovo ThinkPad T-series laptops.
These are exceptionally well-made devices renowned for long service lives.
This T430, i4, 8GB, 128GB SSD, 14" @ $219
Might be all you need if all you intend to use is Windows + MS-Office.
You can expand your internal storage by replacing that little 128GB SSD with something like this:
Samsung EVO 2.5" 512GB @ $78
Or, if you really don't want to have to take a screwdriver to a "brand new" laptop, spend a few extra dollars on this:
Refurbished ThinkPad T450, 14", i5, 8GB, 256GB SSD @ $375
Yeah, I know, $375 is getting really close to what you could pay for a brand-new, low-end laptop.
I guaran-damned-tee you that T450 will blow the doors off of any comparable consumer-grade $400 to $600 device you can buy at Best Buy.
Five or six years after you buy it, that T450 will still be ready for more work, while that Acer that looked so nice in the store will be missing keys, with a wonky hinge and a power brick that you have to hold at an angle to charge your laptop.
If you don't need much space, you can get some really cheap SSDs, here is a $20 120 GB SSD on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C
(Sorry for formatting I’m on mobile)
I don’t know anything about intel so I’ll leave the cpu to someone else but here are some other parts that leave a decent budget for the cpu. Btw I just assumed that this is USD.
motherboard: (you can’t choose a motherboard without knowing the cpu sorry) make sure that you cpu is compatible AND works well with you motherboard aswell a quick google will solve that issue
Psu: you’ll have to do some wattage calculations inputting your pc parts into this website https://seasonic.com/wattage-calculator# (tip: just ignore the sliders on the wattage calculator they will automatically adjust to the parts you choose) also regarding the wattage calculator get a power supply 50 watts or more over what it says and btw I would reccomend Corsair power supplies.
Case: choose whatever case you like best but make sure that it can fit your motherboard and other parts (e.g. a regular atx motherboard isn’t gonna fit into micro or atx mini itx case) it’s pretty easy to check just read the product descriptions for what size the motherboard is and what motherboard sizes the case supports.
Ignore sound cards unless you plan to use this pc for music production and ignore wifi cards unless you play games on wifi which I highly advise against.
Cpu cooler: unless you plan to overclock then the stock cooler is ugly but fine.
Storage: 120gb ssd (for operating system, google, game launchers, and fav games) https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=kingston+120gb+ssd&amp;qid=1562736265&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;sr=8-1
Storage 2: well you’ll have to decide on the amount for storage u need as there are different models from 1tb to 10tb again only get what u need. but for you price I reccomend: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Deskptop-1Terabyte-5400-7200RPM-Applications/dp/B06XR3LT6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=wd+blue+1tb&amp;qid=1562736437&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
Case fans: depending on the case you buy it may come with fans or not. Sometimes the seller say the case includes fans and they only include 1 or 2 I would reccommend 3 fans at least (2 at front 1 at the back) Corsair, NZXT, noctua, cooler master and thermaltake make good fans.
Note: idk if intel cpu’s Comes with thermal paste with it (wether it’s pre-applied like Ryzen or in a tube) but make sure you have thermal paste on hand
Sorry I couldn’t help with cpu and motherboard but I hope this helps good luck :)
Yes, reformat it and you should be fine. Also, get an SSD. They're dirt cheap nowadays and will make your new PC feel so much faster.
You don't have to buy windows, if you have a USB installer you can run unactivated windows 10 until you want to get rid of the watermark. Everything looks good. The only thing I'd say is the addition of a cheap SSD would really fully flesh the build out to use as a boot drive. Really makes a difference on powering on and off the system. You might also be able to squeeze some games/apps depending on size into the drive and help with load times.
I might say something like this Kingston 120 gig for a boot drive to start off with for 20 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D7iwDbKJWXGST
Is there any reason to really use a thumb drive?
SSDs are $20. Save yourself some headache.
not in the dell optiplex i got. OP make sure it is the full size dell optiplex or you're going to have a problem. I would probably pick up an old Dell optiplex computer from this link:
Total so far: $160
Then i would potentially buy an ssd from amazon(120gb):
Total so far: $180
Then i would buy a new power supply:
Total so far: $220
Then I would buy a used graphics card:
Total so far: $320
I know i've exceeded over your budget, but personally I think the performance degradation from not spending that extra 100 dollars is so drastic that I wouldn't recommend doing so.
I would buy this SSD since you do not have one.
120gb ssd is literally 20$ (https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C for anyone interested)
I know you said cheap, but how much are you willing to spend? What tends to make the older models very usable is putting an SSD in them. I find it more affordable to get an SSD and put it in a ThinkPad that came with no HDD. I often use the T61 that's sitting next to my couch, but for not a LOT more, you can probably get up to a T410 and at least then the screen will be LED and not CCFL (dims as it ages).
Like a T420s for $78 + an SSD for $28 + an AC adapter for $8 + a hard drive caddy for $6.
The part of that will go down in price with older models is the chassis itself, and not by a lot. Is that in the budget?
SSD + Ram
You can be at around $100 bucks for 8 gigs of ram + the SSD. Your computer will seem like a brand new machine with those upgrades.
You might want to consider getting a Dell PowerEdge T30. They frequently go on sale for a little over $300. They come with 8GB of ECC DDR4 and a comparable CPU to the one you selected.
You can find the deal on Slickdeals and sign up for alerts like this one: https://slickdeals.net/f/12040247-poweredge-t30-mini-tower-server-319-and-free-shipping
Also, I'd recommend getting a separate SSD just for the OS. You can just get a cheap one for ~$30 like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C
You won't find MX500 that small, but MX500 is just one line of one brand of SSD.
Look, here's 120GB SSD and yes it will definitely breathe new life in an old computer: https://smile.amazon.com/Kingston-120GB-Solid-SA400S37-120G/dp/B01N6JQS8C/
But you need to install windows on the SSD for it to make it feel faster.
Those components wont likely fit, but even if they did you wouldn't want to use such dated parts. I put together this NUC for my father recently. All he does is watch a lot of Youtube videos and surfs news websites. Here is a parts list you could consider:
Intel NUC $127
This doesn't include a copy of windows... which you can get license for off of various sources such as Kinguin for less than $40. Or if you're cool with it, there are various versions of linux which you can run for free.
You need specifically DDR3 RAM, and a max of 16GB of DDR3 RAM. Two 4GB sticks like this one should work.
Also, an SSD with a SATA connection from a reputable manufacturer, like this one should work. Since the computer is pretty old, I wouldn't bother putting any new high-end parts in it personally, and of course, even cheaper parts can be found on sites like eBay.
I have 2 Shields and on both I use Kingston 120gb SSD's in Sabrent USB 3.0 ultra slim aluminum enclosures. $30 total on Amazon and they come with everything you need including a short USB cable. Note that once you install the SSD in the enclosure you will need to connect it to a PC and format it prior to connecting to the Shield. They are very small.
SSD - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6JQS8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Enclosure - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS31KQG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Samsung T5 Portable SSD - 500GB - USB 3.1 External SSD (MU-PA500B/AM), Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GZBT36/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_shklDbZSA3HBC
Here is a write up I did on Path of Exile. X1X internal HDD vs External SSD. Used a Samsung T5 - this one.
tldr - took 1/3 the time on average.
Do you recommend anything else? I was looking at one of these:
Just picked up https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-T5-Portable-SSD-MU-PA500B/dp/B073GZBT36 at Best Buy and oh boy.
I'm always the first person into staging and have to wait for other people to join in. When I'm dropping in I can see the items on rooftops while I'm still in the air which helps with deciding on where on the roof I want to drop.
Other factors are that the skins in the game selection load near immediately (the gray placeholder is only there for about 1 second). Also if you hold down the PS button to go to party settings / friends, the lag is gone.
Here are the times from my PS4 Pro:
First # is seconds with default PS4 Pro HD, second is with external SSD (T5 Samsung)
Game loading time from PS screen: 36 / 27
Blackout loading into staging: 24 / 11
Multiplayer loading map into specialist selection: 10 / 5
I recommend an external SSD to everyone. Set up time is 30 seconds to connect and select in PS4 devices, then it took 11 minutes to move COD to the SSD.
Amazon has the award-winning Samsung 860 EVO (500GB) right now for $84.95.
Great deal, Guardians.
First of all stop using it and shut the computer down. If the drive is on the verge of failing, which it sounds like it is, you don't want to push it over the edge.
Remove the drive from the computer following this guide, put that drive into one of these and connect it to another computer. You can then pull off all of the photos, etc.
While you still have the mac open, put one of these in it. From there just install a fresh copy of Mac OS and you'll be back in action with a computer that will be noticeably faster. It's like night and day performance wise.
On Amazon the Samsung 860 Evo is cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/
Mobo: try to buy a B450 motherboard
Do you already have DDR4 RAM?
I waited for a while myself but man it is worth it. Seriously you will be really happy with the purchase.
It's one of those things just make your whole computing experience better. Prices are fairly cheap now I think as well.
$78 - easy choice imo
>this was going for $60 on amazon not too long ago
Oh ya? Show us. I don't see $60 CAD on CamelCamelCamel or Keepa price history for 860 Evo 500GB
The lowest I've seen it sold on been sold on Amazon I see has been for $89.99. Lowest Lightning Deal was $94.99, 2 months ago.
You're thinking of the 860 Evo 250GB that went for $59.99 from August 30th for 2 weeks.
I am looking for a new SSD as well. Going on r/buildapcsales rn
Edit: Shopping done, gonna be picking up this with my various amazon gift cards-https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=twister_B07P5VF5TL?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
yes, but get 860 evo for slightly cheaper
This is really the only SSD you should be buying. Don't buy PNY, Sandisk or Kingston, as I've seen them fail myself and with an SSD, once it fails, everything is gone, unlike a mechanical drive.
Its really not that much more expensive, and its far faster and far more reliable, and Samsung has a 5 year warranty on them.
EDIT: I should specify that Samsung is the only SSD brand you should be buying. You can, of course, purchase 970s as well, which are even better.
Firstly, there's a major difference between being DOA and working for a matter of weeks before failing. The latter is tremendously worse, as anyone without a backup solution has lost all of their data.
Secondly, any hardware manufacturer is capable of some DOA devices. That does not mean Samsung and Adata drives have comparable endurances -- you need to consider the statistics of the distribution, as a whole. We can do a quick analysis with a much larger sample size than your personal experience of owning a single Adata SSD and a single Samsung SSD:
Obviously, this is not a thorough, extensive analysis, and probably does not reflect the actual, absolute failure rates for these devices. But it's probably first-order accurate as a comparison and hopefully you get the point.
Everything looks great but I would get an ssd as an os boot drive and the hard drive for mass storage. It will make a huge difference in the responsiveness of your system.
Even on a budget I found this $30 250gb drive.
That's not a bad rig, but at that price point, you deserve something with an ssd. It will make your overall experience much snappier. After getting an ssd, I can never go back to a regular hard drive. I also feel that, if you're going to get an rx 580, you might as well go with the 8gb variant over the 4gb.
I realize that it can sometimes be hard to find pre-builts with ssds. Another good option in my opinion is to buy a pre-built with no ssd (ie, the one you linked), and then throw in your own ssd. If you really want to keep costs down, this is a 120gb from adata for just over $20 that has been serving me well:
If you wanted to get a bit more storage however, I really like the Samsung 250gb for around $50:
There's other options out there, but those are my personal picks. If you don't want to do any custom work though and would prefer more plug and play, then I'm not sure at the moment. If you find another pc with an ssd, then I would strongly recommend that over the one that you have linked.
Over all though, it's a decent build.
(sorry for formatting, on mobile)
Disclaimer: I work at Backblaze.
> set the temporary folder
If you open the Backblaze Control panel and find the “Settings...” button, on the first tab is “Temporary Scratch Drive” or something like that. You can set that to an external or internal drive other than “C:\” there. Hit “Pause” on the backup (if it is running). Make sure this folder is empty (while paused):
Then hit “Backup Now” or wait to let the backup resume.
Now, that will change where Backblaze makes a copy of large files it is about to backup, which is “temporary data”. However, there is some data which is not temporary (should only be 2-3 GBytes) where Backblaze remembers what has been backed up or not backed up. That cannot be moved. The way to make it smaller (the smallest it can be) is to uninstall, reinstall, and NOT use “Inherit Backup State”. It will repush all your files, in the process clearing the “history” of everything that has occurred which shrinks this folder to the theoretical minimum. It will then slowly grow from there to about 1 GByte over the first year of operation. Maybe 2 GBytes over 3 years, etc.
Another idea is to upgrade your internal SSD. The Samsung EVO series is ridiculously good, and a 256 GByte doubling of your capacity is $50 from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-Internal-MZ-76E250B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8/
Depending on your form factor, they go all the way down to $25 for a 256 GByte Kingston SSD. I would still recommend the “EVO” if you can afford it, they are fast and reliable.
How does this compare to the Samsung 860?
Samsung 860 Evo 250GB for $58 on Amazon
If you don't want to open up your laptop, you could buy a 2.5 Inch ssd and an enclosure
Which model G3 15 do you have? You probably have a slot for an m.2 SSD, so you wouldn't have to replace your hard drive.
I have done the same. For anybody trying to do so, just buy these 2 items off of amazon:
Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
ORICO USB3.0 to SATA III 2.5"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M08LCXW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Those links contain everything you need. Once you have them, connect it to your xbox and transfer destiny to the ssd from the internal storage and you're done.
You would be much better off with an SSHD. It will give you close to SSD for a fraction of the cost:
edit: here is the one in the video, it is 2TB of storage for 85$ or 1TB for 63$
Upgrading internal storage is not that hard, and in my opinion, 100% worth it. For a while, every time I got a new game I had to delete another, which really sucked. I bought a 2tb hard drive from amazon and it’s amazing. Here’s the link to the one I got https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-FireCuda-Gaming-2-5-Inch-ST2000LX001/dp/B01M1NHCZT
another cpu cooler here : https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499766384&amp;sr=1-24
also i bought this firecuda seagate: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
put those in your list if you think its ok
nope ..thats a barracuda .. try this one
People on SD are saying the drive is soldered to the USB so you cannot shuck it.
I suggest getting a Seagate hybrid HDD (https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-FireCuda-Accelerated-Performance-ST2000LX001/dp/B01M1NHCZT) for the internal chasis.
I just purchased and installed 2TB Seagate sshd on my own PS4. Super easy to do and I’m really enjoying not having to delete 3 games just to install a new one.
I got fed up with my 500gb so I upgraded to the a Seagate 2tb internal. and love it.
That 2tb is on sale, I think, and will do just fine. I'm gonna throw what I have which is an ssd. If im op though and this worried about screwing and unscrewing a HDD, I wouldn't get caught up in speeds. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1NHCZT/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_1lgpybE448D2R
I would pop a 2TB HDD in for stuff... you can never have enough storage. https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-FireCuda-2-5-Inch-Notebooks-ST2000LX001/dp/B01M1NHCZT
It works well on PS4, however zone loading times can be a bit slow on the stock hard drive. IF you find the loading times too long, upgrading the PS4's hard drive to a hybrid or SSD drive will make a huge difference.
I can highly recommend pickup up a Seagate Firecuda hybrid drive:
You'll see zone loading times reduced by more than half:
I'm going to throw out the option of a hybrid drive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/
It has 8GB of flash that it uses for caching frequently accessed data. You get a lot of the benefits, but 2TB for <$100. Look at the 5th load numbers from this review: http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2017-seagate-firecuda-2tb-review. Since you're usually only heavily playing one or two games at a time, it works really well.
This is the hard drive I put in my PS4. 2tb, sshd, works great. There are a few negative reviews that specifically say that some folks had issues when using it with a ps4 but I've had it in for 2 years and it's worked absolutely fine.
I know you can put regular 3.5 hard drives in your PS4, but you'd have to buy a [separate attachment](https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MQ62EZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525316498&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=ps4+3.5+hard+drive that) will allow the drive to fit.
Hers an an adata for $29
ADATA SU635 240GB 3D-NAND QLC SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD (ASU635SS-240GQ-R) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PLNNDL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8EVxDbM9KNQXF
I got this Kingston for $30 the other day but now it's $32
Kingston 240GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/240G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5IB20Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CGVxDbEW2EPQV
But Amazon has more options for $30
Same on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5IB20Q
> Unless you’re just getting it for a boot drive get the 240gb one for $30 on amazon.
Same price as Bestbuy actually, both are $29.99 but yes it's true given you're prime (& who isn't?), Amazon has free, 2-day shipping so definitely an advantage over Bestbuy's ~$5 standard 5-7 days shipping.
Either way, it's a steal... I remember just a year or so ago these were easily $300-400 drives..
Edit: Also, your current graphics card is not removed. I've drawn a box around it in red. It may not be functional, and it's certainly not worth using anymore, but it's there.
You don't need to factory reset it.
Now you have a perfectly fine gaming PC. You'd have to spend $500 to build something that will outperform this $100-$130 version.
If you really don't want it, you can drop it off at my place. I'll put it to use. ;)
Ay happy birthday kiddo!
This would be very helpful, thanks for contest :) Kingston SA400S37/240G SSD A400 240 GB Solid State Drive (2.5 Inch SATA 3) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N5IB20Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IGfDCbGBT9P88
First, you want the [Seagate Backup Plus Slim] (http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Portable-External-Storage-STDR2000100/dp/B00FRHTSK4/) - it's a piece of cake to open the case, it just pulls apart and you smoothly remove the connector, rip off the foil, etc... to get the drive out. If you do it carefully you can reuse your old drive in the case, which is what I did.
Second, get the 2tb drive, the price difference is like $20 ~ $30 now, but it saves you from having to buy another drive down the road. Game installs, patches, add-ons and demos are only getting bigger... so the number of games you can keep fully installed in 2016 will be lower if your drive is too small.
I just did the upgrade last week, I trusted my 130-hour FFX save to a transfer, worked fine.
I used this one. I believe this is the cheapest option. You do have to take it out of an enclosure though. [Link.] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTSK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uXgyybX1XH31Y)
Everything I've heard about it indicates that's its a popular and reliable choice.
It just makes the hard drive bay bigger. You still need a hard drive to plug into it and it still replaces the hard drive that came with the system.
You're better just getting this which doesn't need the data bank.
Wow, that's not fun, losing all your stuff twice like that. I'm sorry!
As for swapping out your hard drives, no, it won't make your PS4 any worse. If anything, it sounds like the problem may be the hard drive that is currently in the PS4, and whenever the PS4 tries to install an update, it may be hitting a bad sector, causing the drive to corrupt.
I'm not really all that familiar with the HDDs in PS3s, but your best bet would really be to get a new HDD just for your PS4. The older a drive is and the more its been used, the closer it is to the end of its life. The last thing you want is to replace a failing HDD with an old HDD that is near the ends of its life, then end up with another dead HDD shortly after putting it in.
Depending on how much storage you want on your PS4, you can get a new HDD between about $40 for a new 500GB drive or $70 for 2TB.
I've seen quite a few people who have had this same issue with updates, and eventually they will get to a time when the update refuses to install at all and they can do nothing but replace the HDD if they want to ever use their PS4 again.
I got this https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000100/dp/B00FRHTSK4 price-matched at bestbuy because I couldn't install half the games and demos I wanted haha
Any external drive should be faster than the internal, whether SSD or not. I'd avoid SSD just because of pricing concerns.
I use two drives - one Seagate and one Western Digital. This is the Seagate one, you can probably find the WD 2 TB one through the 'bought similar' recommendations. They both perform the same.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
As someone who owns close to 30 tb in external hdd's get western digital or the new seagate drives.
I own the big fat drives that need an AC adapter to power on and the little guys that don't need external power.
I would recommend this one
I own 4 of these and they work great! for either mac or windows.
Buy an online ftp server to back up all your music or use google drive / drop box that way you have backups of your projects / media
Here's what I got:
It's a Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB. The one /u/dolphinblood mentioned is the 1tb model.
live in the US?
you can't buy a 2 TB HDD by itself, BUT seagate has them inside their slim external HDD, just prey off the metal cover, and voila. That's what I have in mine right now.
I used this guide:
A user, u/LukeLC , posted here a couple weeks back. The one in the side bar is just as good but perhaps you'll like his better. In it he recommends types of hard drives. I chose this one:
Though I bought it at Walmart for the same price as Amazon had it for. You can buy a solid state (ssd) but the biggest ssd you can use in the PS4 is 1TB and it's a bit expensive. And your only return on that extra investment is some games will load about 15-25 seconds faster. So imo it's not worth the extra money and less than maximum possible storage space. If you google it you can find forums that discuss the pros and cons of hdd and ssd in the PS4.
If you have more questions just message me. I don't mind. Once you get it all set up you'll wonder why you were ever so intimidated by it. Don't worry.
I got this one, its working very well. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00FRHTSK4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Grabbed this drive
Followed this guide
Was pretty easy other than the ps4 didn't like the first USB drive I tried to use to install the OS, second one had no problem though.
muuuuuch better title.
This was number one in the deals and sales thread. I guess it would be a good spec/price to start with!
Seagate Slim 2TB USB 3.0 for $99 at Amazon.
This is the one I used.
You can also go with this one if you want something a bit cheaper, it's about $20 cheaper.
I just grabbed one of these today, I'm tired of being short on space, or removing something to play something else:
What kind of business relationship do Samsung and Seagate have anyway? Here you have a Seagate enclosure containing a Samsung HDD inside.
To be honest a normal 5400rpm is more than enough same speed the normal hard drive has. You won't notice a great deal in speed if you go with 7200rpm so it's really up to you. For me I'm going with a 2tb only because I care about the memory if it's over kill at least I'm prepared for the future. This is the hard drive I may be getting https://amzn.com/B00MPWYLHO the comments says it has a 1 year warranty. You could go cheap and get the Seagate external hard drive for 80 but they are known for beeping and once you open the hard drive on that external case you void that drives warranty so if it breaks you are out 80 bucks does not seem worth it to me but if you wanna take that chance here you go https://amzn.com/B00FRHTSK4 . Or if you wanna chance to use a external case for the old hard drive to still be able to use it on PC and if you don't have a usb or the screw driver you could get this bundle https://amzn.com/B00PG5FHCU . I hope this was helpful
I have this one and it works great.
Your better off going for a SSHD rather than a full blown SSD (the performance difference on the PS4 is negligable and not worth the extra cost). a 1TB drive - Seagate
Also if you dont mind a normal drive then a 2TB one will be released by the end of this month I think - Samsung drive
Or the 1TB version for a third of the price Also samsung
This is the one I got. I've had it about 6 months with no problem. You'll notice the PS4 boots a bit faster than the factory hard drive as well. At least it did for me.
It is amazingly easy to install a new HD on a PS4. I would recommend doing it right out of the box for the least amount of hassle. Just YouTube it and you'll be happy with your decision. Let me know if you have questions.
For about $25 more, he could also get a 2TB hard drive like this Samsung Seagate 2TB Laptop HDD SATA III 2.5-Inch Internal Bare Drive 9.5MM (ST2000LM003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_veALwb2FZDD74
Jesus no, those prices are ridiculous. Just go with this one, I've been using it for over a year now. No issues at all.
I have this brand and had it installed since Oct 2014 with no issues at all. There's newer models available, but this one works great for my ps4.
There's only one 2TB drive that fits, AFAIK
It's a Samsung drive and you can get it in external drive form (and take it out of the case to install it), or in bare drive form (which is usually more expensive)
Advantage to the second is you don't Have to mess with it.
The advantage to the first is that you can repulse the drive you remove from the PS4 as a portable drive when you're done.
Be very careful that you're getting a drive that fits. There are 2.5" drives that are too tall (12mm instead of 9.5mm).
I'm personally going to go for 2TB because I don't know if I'll notice that big of a difference in performance.
I'm trying to decide between these ones
but I can't decide if either would be better or worse.
Upon comparing them closely I couldn't tell any difference in specs between the $90 one and the $100
Seagate Expansion 2 TB USB 3.0... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TKFEE5S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is what I use, works perfectly. Never had a problem with it
Well that was hard, you do need to do a bit of work to crack the case open, but doing so will allow you to reuse the case with the stock 500gig HDD that used to be in your PS4 as an external drive.
This is my hard drive, how do I tell?
No, it isn't, and here's why:
This is $6, weighs less than a gram, has no moving parts to break and is smaller than a stick of gum. Much like the HDD shown, it too requires a laptop or desktop to be useful. This is handy.
This is $179, which is more than the DJI unit, but it has a built in card reader AND a battery so you can use it in the field AND wifi so you don't even need to dig out a cable when you get home. That is handy.
If you want a 2tb external drive, here ya go - It's $70 (almost half off the DJI price), save yourself some time and just write DJI on with a sharpie.
This is my personal one, I have had no problems with it Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7idKBbCBX3Q5C
You will need to remove the hard drive and put it in an enclosure or use a USB sata adapte. Here is a link for removing the drive. https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+13-Inch+Unibody+Early+2011+Hard+Drive+Replacement/5119
Here is a link for a cheap USB sata adapter for $12. StarTech USB 3.0 to 2.5" SATA III Hard Drive Adapter Cable w/ UASP - SATA to USB 3.0 Converter for SSD/HDD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HJZJI84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QFKPybZWC5D1P
You could also buy this external drive for $80. It is fairly easy to open and remove the drive. Then when you have recovered your files you can reinstall the new disk and continue using it as a backup drive so you don't have this issue in the future. You may have to formate the new drive for mac. Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uJKPyb5C9BAPK
Not OP, but we use this one:
Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lRYXBbZ4J4ZZB
DONT buy a use hard drive. Hard drives have a definite life cycle the older and more used they are the more likely they will fail, especially if they have been moved and dropped which is probably allot in PC. I used to build computer from used parts, and Hard drive are one of the parts you should NOT buy unless you absolutely have no money for any other option and even then its a bad idea.
There will be several people with drives full of movies and media, just bring a blank drive and ask around when you meet or on the local PC facebook, somebody can help you.
Solid state drives are much expensive and more durable, especially to problem like drops while working. If you have money to burn let me know I'll recommend a few.
Otherwise here is a good 2tb hard drive for a good price. Each will fit about 500 movies. 4tb drives are available and are a better deal per gigabyte but I recommend 2 smaller drives for redundancy if you need that much room.
An external seagate drive is always a safe bet. Seagate makes internal HDDs as well if you are willing to put a little more work into replacing the drive completely. It would save you a USB port, though. The internal and external ones are very similar in price, so it comes down to preference.
Nope, any external hard drive greater than 256GB with usb 3.0 will work.
Example drive that will work:
See the sony user manual here on how to set it up/use it:
Unfortunately with the WD drives, they are soldered to the board so you're unable to open these up and use the drive on the PS4. The perfect one for the PS4 are the Seagate externals, those can be ripped from the enclosure and used on the PS4.
This one will do
The ssd is 70 brand new for the latest model on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-SDSSDA-240G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G43WU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485731926&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=240gb+sandisk+ssd
can you do any better on it?
What? No. Get this (or something similar): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G43WU/ref=psdc_1292116011_t1_B013J7Q338
An external hard drive might end up being worse than your current setup. This should change your PC experience completely.
If you're looking for total storage space, go mechanical, but go 7200RPM at the very least. If you're just looking to "play around" with Linux, this should be more than enough, and will also be extremely cheap. A WD Blue drive goes for $49, and and a tool-free enclosure goes for $23.
For those wondering, there is a 1 TB, 6gb/s, 64MB Western digital hard drive on sale on amazon for $63. No MIR, standard shipping, and it's western digital.
I've heard bad stories about seagate, and personally prefer WD as i've had two seagate's fail on me. Though that's anecdotal evidence.
It should be noted that shipping is 7 dollars if you get from TD. Buying from TD saves you 5 dollars, but you have to deal with a MIR.
Looks like a really good build. I will put part links in the end of the post. Here's some tips to save a bit of money if you're open to it:
TL;DR: cut back on PSU efficiency ratings, look for different 16GB or even 8GB RAM kits, ditch CPU cooler (or keep if you want), get an RX 480 for saving money on future monitors, you can also put another RX 480 in your build in the future with a different motherboard; an ATX motherboard would fill your case and add capability for a second RX 480, a non-Samsung SSD could save you some money, while for $100, you can get an SSD and a 1TB hard drive.
“Basic” EVGA 550W
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO LED
RX 480 -choose which one you like
Crucial MX 300 275GB
SanDisk Z400S 256GB
WD Blue 1TB
I hope my advice helped you and that this didn't overwhelm you. If you save enough money, you could throw in a red LED PWM fan, which adjusts its speed based on your computer's needs. You could maybe even throw in an LED strip or two. I had a lot of fun making this, thanks for posting :D
how do i add the link
Anyone who wants my build!
I finally got the parts, I think, idk noob with comps I am
Anywhere's here is a link to all the parts :P
Lel enjoy nerds
Just bought one on amazon. They are only $9 more but with free prime shipping.
Something like this Kingston? 120gb is same price as 60gb, so looks like a decent deal.
I would spent another £10 and get a 128GB SSD, like this one. You will fill up 64GB so quickly.
The rest of it looks good!
nope, removed my super drive and put my old HDD into a caddy that takes the place of where the super drive was. I think it's a fairly common upgrade for the unibody mb / mbp
Here is the drive i purchased, Kingston 120gb for a good price. Not the best SSD but it's compatible and cheap
Here is the caddy i purchased that took the place of my superdrive. I went for cheap over quality built and for that I kind of regret it. It didn't mount in all three places like the superdrive did, and I had to slightly modify it. If i were to do it again, I'd go OWC or Optibay route.
Nevertheless, I'm incredibly happy with it! it took a little bit of maneuvering to get back to normal with prioritizing where applications and downloads went, but all in all it's great now. I cloned my drive instead of doing a clean install, a corner i cut that i might go back and re-do later.
Is it important for to go with the newer Skylake series? If not:
CPU | Intel Core i3-4170 | EUR 121,90 @ Caseking
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-H81N-D2H-Intel-H81 | EUR 49,13 @ Mindfactory
Memory | Kingston HX316 (8 GB) | EUR 43,68 @ Cyberport
Storage | WD10EZEX Blue (1 TB) | EUR 49,90 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 950 | EUR 164,90 @ Cyberport
Case | Bitfenix Prodigy | EUR 79.90 @ Caseking
Power Supply | Xilence Performance C XP500 (350 W) | EUR 33,90 @ Cyberport
| Total | €540.40
| Generated by pc-kombo 13.12.2015 |
Storage is cheap
$79.99 on Amazon
it was these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1ZTZOG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i agree that sounds cheap af. i think the 100gig i have right now went for $100 in 2012... lol
Apparently Amazon has the same deal [here] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1ZTZOG/ref=s9_dcbhrz_bw_d23_g147_ir04_sh?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=center-6&amp;pf_rd_r=17PDDM5KC1438YERAP9Z&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=1515492842&amp;pf_rd_i=540734)
I mean, I don't think you will notice a difference. I'm not an SSD enthusiast or anything, but I just bought this one(Kingston v300, 120GB - $90) and it's working great. I'd rather take a good deal with an SSD, then worry too much about performance loss.
My opinion, get the Kingston. I don't think the difference in speed is that big of a factor.
There is a lot of great info in this ThinkPad Product Specifications Reference PDF, specifically starting on page 45.
Did the listing specify if the computer has included the main hard drive tray, bumpers, and cover? You will need a cover for the main drive bay if the computer is missing it.
If I where you, I would get a solid state drive for the main hard drive bay. They are 2.5 inch, 7mm SATA. Any drive will do, but I recommend the Crucial M500 or the SanDisk Extreme. You could also get a 7mm standard, spinning hard drive, like this Western Digital Blue
I would also get a second hard drive caddy and install it in the Ultrabay slot. This Seagate Hybrid Drive or this Western Digital Black would do nicely.
If you have any more questions, just let me know!
This one is faster. I have one in a 15inch Mid 2012.
Seagate 1TB Solid State Hybrid Drive SATA 6Gbps 64MB Cache 2.5-Inch ST1000LM014
Also, since you are going to crack the case, you might as well upgrade the RAM if you haven't already.
Further, your best bet is to wait until the 2 TB version of this is released. That will give you the speed you want with the space you'll need.
This one: http://www.amazon.com/computers-accessories/dp/B00B99JUBQ
There's only one option!
Seagate 1TB Solid State Hybrid Drive SATA 6Gbps 64MB Cache 2.5-Inch ST1000LM014 84.99 Amazon
Portal 2 Load Times, 500GB version
TechReport review, 500GB version
This is a pound heavier, but I don't see that being a deal breaker reasonably.
Intel i5-6300HQ 2.3 GHz Quad-Core (6M Cache, Turbo up to 3.2 GHz)
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M 4GB GDDR5
8 GB DDR3L / 256 GB Solid-State Drive
15.6-Inch FHD IPS, Wide-Angle, Anti Glare Screen.
Notice it doesn't have an HDD, this is easily fixed by buying one separate, unscrewing a panel on the back and plugging one in.
I recommend an SSHD http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Laptop-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LM014/dp/B00B99JUBQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450713755&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=laptop+hard+drive
Having used Amazons laptop picker, to narrow down the results to your specifications, I could not find a laptop that fit everything you wanted.
are you planning to install this inside the ps4? if so thats the wrong one.
you will need something like this
thats the best speed for the PS4 and no it doesnt void warranty. Sony actually give you instructions on how to upgrade the HDD.
You can follow a guide here
A 500GB SSD is an incredible upgrade, but it's ungodly expensive.
Have you considered a hybrid drive? I've used the 500GB and am currently using the 750GB Seagate Momentus XT. It cache's your most frequently used programs and start-up information on an SSD. The rest performs like a HDD.
It's not as fast as a pure SSD, but I think it would give you more of what you're looking for at a better price with more storage.
The 1TB version is $120 @ Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B99JUBQ/?tag=pcpapi-20
SSHD = Solid State Hybrid Drive = HDD with a small SSD. Saying a 1TB SSHD is correct.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Solid-Hybrid-2-5-Inch-ST1000LM014/dp/B00B99JUBQ
Try this one its amazing and I love it.
Hey, not the OP but I upgraded to a 1TB SSHD a week after my PS4 arrived (I ordered it a bit late had hoped to just do it instantly). It is pretty simple, the SSHD I bought is this one. Here is a nice video that will show you exactly how to replace it once you have it.
I bought this one. Easy to install. Cheap. $85 for 1TB
(if you buy the "used" amazon warehouse deal one (which I did) its even cheaper!)
I commented this once before but I also have a Mid-2010 MBP (although mine's the 13 inch) and I installed this hybrid drive into it back in February, and it works very well. I was considering going with a SSD, but since I ultimately needed more storage space and I don't have the dough to shell out to purchase a 500gb SSD, I went with this one. Much less expensive, but is a vast improvement from my original drive, which I believe was dying.
Here. I have this one and it's amazing. The model number is ST1000LM014
Same price on Amazon if you have Prime for free 2-day shipping. Or just, you know, gift cards to use.
For example, I want to buy 10 of these SSD from Amazon. But they only allow 4.
Edit 1: Never mind. I just edited my cart to 10 and it let me do that. I was being retarded.
Edit 2: Nope. I got excited for no reason. Wouldn't let me buy more than 4.
it'd have to be pretty fucking cheap, you can get a 250GB Samsung EVO 840 for $140 from amazon. i mean, if you can pick it up for less than $100 then MAYBE, but i'd go with a more reputable brand.
Well you can't upgrade your GPU so don't worry about that factor. As for RAM and SSD, both will definitely provide a boost in responsiveness, but that assumes everything else is operating normally. Your comments about the MacBook's recent laggy performance may indicate an issue.
As per /u/Sir_not_sir's suggestion, remove the bottom case and check for dust buildup on the fans. Here are iFixit instructions on doing that. But be careful if you're using canned air. You can use it to blow dust out of the area surrounding the fan, but don't use it in such a way that the air stream turns the fan bades, as that can damage the fans.
Another factor is that your model of MacBook Pro is widely reported as suffering from GPU failures, with lots of owners seeing issues. I have the same model, and was working for Apple at the time of purchase. We saw several models come in for repair for various issues early on, and noticed with all of them that they had way too much thermal paste on the CPU and GPU. My coworkers and I who had purchased the 2011 models all spent a night removing the logic boards, cleaning, and then reapplying the correct amount of paste. None of us have had the issues reported recently [knock on wood]. So that might be one area to look into, although don't do it if you're not comfortable with computer repair; see if you can find a local service provider (Apple itself won't do it for you).
As for the upgrades, you don't want to buy something and discover that your problems were due to an unrelated hardware failure. So what you may want to try is to find a retailer that accepts returns on the SSD and RAM (most companies will charge a restocking fee on opened items, somewhere around 15 percent, but call ahead to companies like Other World Computing, explain the situation, and ask if they can make an exception on their return policy). That way you can try to upgrade and see if things improve. If not, you're not stuck with expensive components, as you won't be able to use either the RAM or SSD if you end up buying a new MacBook Pro.
I have a 512GB Samsung 840 EVO and 16GB of OWC RAM in my 2011 MBP, and it still runs like a champ for just about everything other than intensive video encoding/rendering. If you can sort out the performance and heat issue, yours should have no problem getting you through the rest of school.
You can always use the SSD alongside a HDD. OS goes to SSD, with some other stuff like browsers, and some games. Other stuff like videos and music goes to HDD.
And a 250GB Samsung Evo is $130 right now, well worth for the huge improvement.
If you decide to try an SSD to replace the slow 5200rpm hard drive that came in that iMac, I'd recommend checking out the Samsung 840 Evo SSD. Best bang for your buck and an SSD should definitely speed things up.
SSD's are known to slow down with decreased performance as they fill up, ive heard estimates that one should keep around 20% free space for optimal speed. So I guess you can choose between everything being a bit slower or having a faster os and slower skyrim. I would personally think you will be fine if you dont go too overboard with it.
With the price of ssd's at the moment you could even try and pick up a 128gb one for skyrim pretty cheap
I have the Mid 2010 13" MBP as well. I threw a Crucial M4 in it almost 2 years ago and it blows my mind how smoothly the computer still runs. The only other thing I've replaced is the battery. I honestly think this computer will continue to run this smoothly for another year or two. I'm so incredibly happy with it after 4 years.
I cannot recommend this enough. For less than $150 your computer will be so much faster you will hate yourself for not upgrading sooner.
Some suggestions to trim the fat:
I've heard really good things about the Samsung Evo 840 and it seems pretty affordable. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-7TE250BW/dp/B00E3W1726
Why isn't he recommending the Samsung 840 EVO - it's cheaper than the SanDisk SSDs? Is it not suitable for hackintosh's?
120GB ($99.99): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W15P0
250GB ($176.99): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3W1726
samsung 850 pro
my friend used the 840 evo in his and it works flawless also!
This looks like a great starter build! Allthough your build will more than likely fit into a small tower case so if you want some extra space you could change it, allthough if you keep it, extra space gives better cooling so you could also keep it, your choise there.
Very nice build, what you got there is pretty much all you need, if you can put some extra budget I would strongly recomend getting a 250GB SSD which will allow you to startup in around 10 seconds, but that is not essential and is kinda expensive, so whatever you choose.
SSD on Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E3W1726
You're on your 3rd month of not having a computer because your hard drive died? Why don't you just replace it. Or ask a friend.
It's $54. Shouldn't be that hard to scrounge up even if you don't make much.
How much do you want to spend? Do you want to do any gaming on this PC?
You can build a better computer for cheaper, but the Apple Mac mini is pretty small and powerful enough for recording audio. It's $600.
You can build a better machine for a lot less, though:
The Intel i3-2100 CPU is just about the best bang for your buck.
The ASRock H61DE/S3 motherboard has 5.1 surround sound, S/PDIF optical audio output, Gigabit ethernet, USB 2.0 (but not 3.0), DVI, VGA, and HDMI video output. If you don't need surround sound and optical audio output, we can get something about $20 cheaper here.
SeaSonic power supplies are high quality. 350 Watts will be plenty for this build.
The NZXT Gamma case is the best you can get for only $40.
This build doesn't have a video card. Built-in graphics will work fine unless you will be doing 3D modeling or 3D gaming.
You're worried about space? In the age of $53 1tb drives?
Hey! I want to build a PC because the graphic card on my old one fried 9 months ago, but I have a low budget for a gaming PC. So I was wondering if I could re-use the power supply and the hard drive from my old PC (I bought it in 2013) in the new one? The power supply is a Be Quiet! Pure Power L8 630W CM and the hard drive is a Seagate Barracuda 1TB ST1000DM003. Thanks for your help!
You want more 4th gen or later IMO, but that's mostly to future proof if you're gonna spend that much.
MicroCenter has bundle deals every month. For CPUs/mobos. Gets ya $30 off a CPU/mobo combo (although you'd want to see how cheap the other sellers are, but if you got a MicroCenter nearby, then no shipping). However, all of the mobos I've seen in the $130 base range in their list (which is where I think you should be looking) I'm not liking the instances of bad batches and shitty bios.
This is, at the moment if you go through the trouble of the rebate, probably all you'll need PSU-wise I don't see you going above 550 watts on a $700 budget especially with newer video cards being more energy efficient.
Decent case, nothing fancy, should fit anything you'll want.
Nice reliable 1TB HDD.
Here, I made you a PCPartpicker list. It's up to you to figure out your CPU, CPU cooler, mobo, and GPU. But if you go with a $200 GPU that leaves you about $300 for CPU, mobo, and cooler. You CAN skip CPU cooler for now and deal with the one that comes with the CPU, just realize the thing is a loud piece of shit and you'll want to replace it next paycheck.
Go to /r/buildapac read their rules, edit that list with your picks and ask for advice there.
Also, you'll need a copy of Windows and that's around $80+ unless you uhh... cough.
Looks good. The only thing I can think of is maybe adding an HDD for storage. The SSD is good, but 240 GB will go very fast, especially if you will be playing a lot of modern games (which you will with the RX 480). This is the one I have, and it can be had on Amazon for <$50.
Also, just want to say Amazon Prime is amazing. I ordered (almost) all of my parts on a Wednesday from them and they were all delivered Thursday. Only had to wait one extra day for the RAM to arrive from Newegg... That was a rough 24 hours haha.
The 1tb version of that hard drive is 10 bucks cheaper https://www.amazon.ca/Western-Digital-Cache-Desktop-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=pd_sim_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=VHE91MQMQVTCXM4ZDATZ
So, it's 4 in the morning over here, so my grammar and typing might be off, but here's what I got:
Amazon Mouse and keyboard combo - $15.00
Reliable company and you can make use of dual-channels
Get a Western Digital hard drive, both a hair cheaper and more reliable.
AMD A8-7600 Quad-Core Get it on amazon or newegg, these sites have good return policies in case something happens. Superbiiz charges $8 for shipping so the cost is the same. $65.00
Graphics card - $57.99
There is a $10 rebate going on so you can get it for $47.99
Although this is a low-end graphics card, you can crossfire this with the APU to get better performance.
This allows for a dual graphics set up. - $49.99
A good supply - $37.99
Annnnnnnd a case - $31
The total cost is $415...
Edit: after looking at u/Wings0fLiberty 's post, the power supply ( I decided on a similar one) could be found for $26.99 on newegg, and a case for $24.99.
With these changes, the build would be withing budget.
I'm a big fan of DIY solutions, and think it would be cheaper to set up a local server that does the same thing. Grabbing a new 1TB WD Blue drive off of amazon is about the same as 4 months of storage on google drive and dropbox is about the same.
If you like having a cloud-like service, take a look at freenas where you can set up a network share and record directly to that. You can set it up on any old computer you have lying around, which is nice. I have mine running on an old e-machines computer from 2002.
edit: If you want to go crazy heres a 6TB external drive for $160 which should last you for just about two years of daily 30 minute uploads.
Get the 570. Its alot, alot alot better than the 1050ti. It's actually disgusting how much better it is.(10-30fps more in games)
I might pick up a few more gigs of RAM if you can afford it.
I would also probably drop the SSD and trade it for a much larger HDD, here's a western digital 1tbon sale for 45 bucks-https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=sr_1_4_acs_ac_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1542594039&sr=1-4-acs&keywords=hard+drive After you put on your OS, chrome, steam, blah blah blah you'll only have like 200 gigs left which isn't too much space for games, and won't even be enough to hold the games that you listed.
[WD Blues] (http://www.amazon.com/WD-Blue-Desktop-Hard-Drive/dp/B0088PUEPK) are the same price right now on Amazon. Similarily, Newegg is running a $5 promo. I'd say that they are a better product for the same cost, unless, for whatever reason, you really want these instead.
Seagate Barracudas also go for the same price a lot.
Is this a gaming PC? if so you should get a 1TB hard drive to complement this build
otherwise it looks very good
There's also a WD blue 1tb on amazon warehouse for £27 after the 20% discount if cex is a bit to risky.
Western Digital WD10EZEX 1 TB Desktop Hard Drive - Blue https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VeafAbQ0YGVFT
What I did when this was happening to me was to just make sure the SSD was the main boot drive in the BIOS then just plugged the old drive in and i didn't have problems with it.
Though I would suggest for the sake of, what, $50? that it would be worth getting a 1tb hard drive, pull all the data he wants to keep onto that, format the old one and then plug it in as a secondary drive.
Well, WD Blue 1TB going for 60usd on Amazon.
If you're looking for something thats lowest price/GB, there's this going for 3.5cents/GB
WD blues are 60 on amazon atm.
Wait a minute! I redid the build using Amazon instead of PCPartPicker. Better build for cheaper. Give me a second!
Here is the build:
Comes to a grand total (with prime shipping) of $610.28!
I would replace the green HDD for a WD Blue which is 7200RPM making it slightly faster.
I would also consider spending a few pounds more for a EVGA 500W Bronze PSU for their excellent customer service should anything go wrong. The Corsair is fine if you wanted to keep it however.
Finally, I would consider swapping the 750Ti (which is a few years old now) for a RX 460 which offers a little better performance for a similar price. You could also consider the RX 470 which would be a fair bit better and you wouldn't need to replace it as quickly, but it does cost a fair chunk more. It would be worth it if you were able to afford it.
Other than that, looks like a good build.
If you have a regular hdd, you can replace it with a regular ssd that is the same size like a Samsung Evo:
The other form factor that your machine may support is "m.2". It's a much smaller form factor built around ssd's much smaller size than hdd's.
What you really need to do is look up what your machine supports.
Yeah, even higher speed 7200 RPM HDDs will get this. I'd actually recommend getting a 1 TB SSD whenever you do upgrade (this one's actually only $128 right now, which is a pretty good deal on an SSD) as it's actually one of the best upgrades for a computer to speed it up.
My Overwatch has that model problem (along with borders and stars not loading completely) when it's on my HDD but on my SSD it never happens.
Crucial 1TB NVMe is a great deal.
$105 - https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ
For our purposes, it means that you should look at the inexpensive NVMe SSDs like the Intel 660p or the Crucial P1, and avoid the more expensive drives like the Samsung 970 Evo or 970 Pro.
Is this worth it then?
You aren't benefitting from NVMe, I certainly wouldn't recommend getting a 970. NVMe drives are significantly faster in sequential read/write speeds (that's the speed that's listed there), which play little to no role in load times. You'll have the same experience as you do currently with your sata SSD.
If you need more space, get another sata SSD. If you really want NVMe, get a cheap one like the Crucial P1, since it makes no difference anyways.
> A 2 TB kingston flash drive (with substantially worse data transfer specs) retails for around 1,000 dollars right now, to put this in perspective, their goal for this campaign was 6,380 dollars.
Uh, do you not know what they're talking about? https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=15H6GFPRP8B0E&amp;keywords=1tb+ssd+nvme&amp;qid=1573096311&amp;sprefix=1%2Caps%2C190&amp;sr=8-3 heck of a lot cheaper than $1k ($96). Obviously that's not in an enclosure, but that ain't adding $900 to the price
I got this Samsung @ 250 GB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oa7PBbWWDCJTB. And the difference has been unreal. Sad that we have to buy additional hardware to improve load times but I would imagine even with a patch load times will be better from an SSD than the internal HD
Wow seriously thank you so much for the info. Really helpful, this is my first build. These are the SSDs
This is what I used on my 1X, works perfectly.
Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jSPUCb7J7ZVPK
I just purchased these. Several of my co-workers and clan members have the same:
This is what I bought and works just fine. Plug and play. Installed the game on the external drive and boom: less time loading, more time playing.
Total = $66.26 + tax (as of this post)
Samsung 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD
AmazonBasics 2.5-inches SATA Hard Drive Enclosure - USB 3.0
Trying to fill a 2.5 inch storage slot. Is the Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB still worth double the price of Seagate FireCuda 2TB Solid State Hybrid Drive Performance SSHD on sale for $60?
Anything on Amazon like this and here's a guide for you to swap it out. It's super simple.
If you want to clone the HDD you have now because you have games and stuff you don't want to delete I would suggest to buy a HDD cloner. Its really easy and I've done it multiple times for just cloning when I did upgrades.
Personal note: $139 for 1tb SSD was like $500 back when it released. I don't even think if they had 1TB SSD. Crazy. If I wasn't already at 1TB I would buy, but I'm going to just wait for the PS5.
Highly recommend getting a 1tb ssd internal drive, this is what I use and it's really helped with loading times/pop in/frame dips. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1CM5O81AJMTIJ&amp;keywords=960+evo+ssd&amp;qid=1567709453&amp;s=electronics&amp;sprefix=960+evo%2Celectronics%2C210&amp;sr=1-3
You can minimize the luck factor and have an advantage over everyone if you get an SSD.
I only have an SSD because I speedrun on ps4, (if i didnt, it wouldnt be worth it) but it refreshes the auction house way faster.
Edit: here is the one I have if you care.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EniBCbEVV114H
> Which confirms our calculations, that data storage requirements would be huge (5PB). But at the same time he does state that it would cost around $200 per month. Now we did a quick search, but failed to find such a rig being offered at such low prices.
As I mentioned in the correction, 100 Mbps is (barely) enough to handle 30k tx/sec. 1 Gbps would give plenty of headroom. That's around $60-100/month right now, though availability is currently still limited.
You can buy a 32 core server with 128 GB of RAM for under $600 right now. SSDs cost about $150/TB, so a 50 TB of SSDs would add about $7,500. So that's $8,000 for the basic hardware. Amortize that over 5 years, and the HW costs are about $133/month. Add in the $60-100 BW costs, and you're looking at around $193 to $233/month with today's hardware prices
When I did this calculation 3 months ago, I think I was assuming that a home hobbyist user would just use
prune=xxxxxand wouldn't bother storing the full blockchain, so I omitted it from my cost calculation. But I still included the HDD array for storing the blockchain in the text description. Oops, sorry. The HDD array is unnecessary and I shouldn't have mentioned it.
If you are looking to rent a dedicated server from a cloud provider, it's going to cost a lot more than this, of course. Datacenters with 99.99% uptime guarantees are expensive places, and are no place for a budget hobbyist node.
For faster web browsing and general multitasking, you want: Fast ram, fast/multicore CPU, and fast storage.
I don't see an SSD on your parts list, so that would by far be the biggest bang-for-your-buck improvement you can add to your computer.
Get a solid state drive to use in conjunction with your hard disk drive, reinstall your Windows operating system onto that SSD, and move all important/frequently used software/files onto that SSD.
Here is the SSD buying guide to help you choose which SSD to probably buy: https://www.reddit.com/user/NewMaxx/comments/9yv0c6/ssd_buying_guide_wip/
For top performance, I would recommend the Samsung 860 EVO (in whichever size you want, but the bigger the storage size the better it will perform). If that is too expensive for you, there are always other options, such as the ADATA Su800.
Note, an SSD will improve your loadspeeds on everything, but alone is unlikely to improve your LoL framerate much. For that you will likely need a new CPU, new RAM, and a new motherboard to put it all in.
Mine take a couple minutes. It used to be around 10 seconds. Then in March, I removed that SSD, got Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_poZI8jesMxMD9 ...fresh install of Windows and...
Still slow boot time. WTF?
Boot time was so fast when I first built my PC 2 years ago. Still runs amazing though.
Looks like you dont have an access cover so here is a quick video showing you the process looks pretty easy on your laptop. Id go for a samsung evo SSD 1tb drives can be had for 150 or less.
Link to how to video for your laptop https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lKwimS6u54
Link to the SSD I recommend but any will do. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=1tb+evo&qid=1572921042&sr=8-3
I no longer have my T420s, but here are a few things that might help:
Hope this helps a bit.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor | $279.49 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $7.25 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $116.16 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $238.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $349.99
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $445.41 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $131.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.98 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1818.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 12:03 EDT-0400 |
PCpartpicker didn't find all the amazon links.
Case Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Crystal-Tempered-Glass-Compact/dp/B01LA2LB7W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521906800&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=460x%2Bcorsair&amp;th=1
SSD Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521906876&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=860+evo+1tb
With some pretty easy overclocking, messing around with XMP settings in BIOS and voltage, you can very easily push the CPU to 3.8 Ghz, People claim to push it to 4.0 Ghz though say it seemed to be a little unstable.
If you haven't cleaned out your PSU, you should. If it's younger than 5 years it's definitely still good. 100$ saved.
Windows can be obtained for free, only disadvantage is a small Windows 10 watermark on the lower right corner, and some of the OS customization settings are locked. It doesn't bother me, and it certainly doesn't convince me to spend 100$ for customization.
M.2 nvme SSDs are many times faster than a SATA SSD, for a boot drive you won't see a huge difference in boot time, but file transfer and such it definitely shines.
The extra fan is for an exhaust for the back of the case. You'll need a fan hub Here: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521908068&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=fan+hub Forgot about it :/
Ive built with this case before, and it comes with a nice SSD mounting array behind the motherboard, a kinda annoying but spacious PSU basement and great air flow. tempered glass oooo
Buy zip ties. like 50. Zip ties are your friend and so is your fully modular PSU
If you want help with your CPU overclocking, you can pm me, or look up a guide on overclockers forum. Really helpful people over there.
I made it all Amazon, because of prime, which is can save you a lot of shipping. With the cheaper vendors, its cheaper for the part, but the shipping would put you over budget.
while that person did try to help, he is a bit out of touch with ssd prices..
sata ssds haven't gone down in pricing in a meaningful way for the past year, they are still around ~110$ for 1tb and samsung likes to charge their tax on top of that too..
instead, you can get nvme ssds such as this or this for the same price..
their performance and warranty is equivalent to a samsung 970 evo, if not better.. and are miles faster than a sata ssd...
RAM: while the one you picked is 3600mhz, it's running at cl18 the memory latency will be same versus a kit running at 3200/cl16 or 3000/cl15.
get these crucial ballistix sticks instead, you can overclock them way beyond their rated speeds (Search for E-Die overclocking on the web to see approximate results) make sure they have "AES" in the model name and you're 100% guaranteed to have E-Die sticks.
CPU Cooler: while noctua is great and all , i personally think the NH-U12S is a waste of money at that price point, just use the stock cooler that comes with your ryzen cpu for a while and save those 70$ towards a noctua nh-u12a or a Noctua NH-D15 (Comes in black variant too now).
Motherboard: can't really recommend one , but instead i urge you to to look at this am4 motherboard list here they all have their own pros and cons, nothing is perfect :^)
Sabrent Rocket 1tb is cheaper and faster. £109
the PCI 4.0 version £199!
wait for friday
09P28FWK for $10 more off if sold by Store4PC and shipped by Amazon
Ewe QLC nand.
$2 more on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ
SSDs are cheap enough now that I'd just go with an SSD personally. You can get a 1TB NVMe for around $100
(Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5vASDbCG478F7)
Before people start talking about it being a slow SSD, sure it's 20% slower than a Samsung 970 Evo or whatever, but it's probably 6 times faster than an HDD.
Of course it also depends on how much storage you need. Personally, I'd get a 1TB SSD and maybe a 2TB HDD if you need that much storage, which I would.
Why you would buy that when you can buy this which is cheaper and faster is beyond me. :)
1tb $102.99 nvme
Not sure if Code EMCTYTV23 still works for $20 off.
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/ for more deals.
https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Nvme&qid=1554438831&s=gateway&sr=8-6&th=1 1 TB NVME, its double the price of ur current ssd, buty also double the storage, but its cheap price, and works well, about 4x the speed of an ssd, just got mine today!
If you don't mind QLC drives, Amazon are selling "new" 1TB Crucial NVME drives for around £82. I bought one earlier for £78. Link here
A much, much faster NVMe SSD which is £99.98 if you tick the box that says "Apply 16% voucher". Would recommend this over the 860 EVO.
This is even better.
For just a $20 difference, I'd recommend getting https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x-2hDbYG4F6GP
It'll be much faster than the SATA since it's NVMe and it's double the storage space.
Looks pretty solid. Just FYI, that keyboard is Cherry MX Blue which may drive your parents insane (it's loud). If that's a concern go with brown, it's a little less noisy. As for the M2 drive, I'd go with the Sabrent Rocket. Build is plenty good for gaming and school.
The Sabrent Rocket m.2 3400MB/s 1TB SSD is just as fast as a 970 evo but its only $109. It also has a 5yr warranty and longer life (TBW=1665) than a 970 evo. This is the best value / performance in m.2 SSD on market right now.
Also, I like your build, but I have a few suggestions
CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
Nice. While the 3700x is clearly better for video editing, better in this case only means that it saves you time. And while time is nice, I think it'd be better to use that $140 towards a second monitor.
CPU Cooler - ARCTIC Freezer 34 eSports DUO CPU Cooler
I feel like you would be better off either buying a better cooler or just sticking with the stock cooler, because I don't think this one will let you oc much more than the Wraith.
Motherboard - MSI MPG X570 GAMING PRO CARBON WIFI
I don't think your use-case justifies an X570 board, I'd recommend the Aorus Pro with WiFi or the Aorus Elite without WiFi, and I would again say to use the extra $100+ towards that second monitor.
Memory - Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Nice. 3600 would be better, but if you can't find a 3600 set for a reasonable price, then you can try to manually oc this 3200 set to 3600.
Storage - Crucial MX500 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive
This is really important and confused me when M.2 drives first came out. Some SSDs have different physical Form Factors and electrical Interfaces.
Two common Form Factors are 2.5 inch and M.2 - Again, these are just physical, not too much of a difference here other than size.
Two common Interfaces are SATA III and PCIe - This is the important part, because SATA III has a maximum theoretical throughput of 600 MB/s, while PCIe Gen 3 4x has a maximum theoretical throughput of about 4000 MB/s
In this case, the Crucial MX500 is an SSD that uses the M.2 Form Factor and SATA III Interface. If you check it's rated read/write speeds, it's about 560/510 MB/s respectively, which would make sense given that it's SATA III.
But this doesn't mean that all NVMe PCIe SSDs can achieve read and write speeds of 4000 MB/s. This just means that if you see an M.2 SATA SSD, you know that it's not gonna be faster than 600 MB/s, but an M.2 PCIe SSD can be faster than 600 MB/s.
Maybe I went on for too long, anyway, my SSD suggestions would be:
Samsung 970 Evo 1TB for $169.99, my personal preference, nice brand, nice speeds (3500MB/s read, 2500MB/s write), nice warranty (5 years)
Sabrent Rocket 1TB for 109.98, I haven't personally used it, not familiar with the brand but this specific product of theirs has a lot of positive reviews, similar speeds (3450MB/s read, 3000MB/s write), ok warranty (1 year?... some people question this)
Intel 660p 1TB for 89.99, I haven't personally used it, nice brand, nice speeds (1800MB/s read, 1800MB/s write), nice warranty (5 years)
Video Card - MSI GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB Video Card
Strictly gaming performance wise, the 5700 XT is better than the 2070. On top of that, it's around $30 cheaper.
General performance is tough to compare. And on top of that, they each have their own individual benefits in different video editing programs.
If video editing is mostly just a side thing, then the 5700 XT looks like the card for you. But if you are serious about video editing, then you're gonna have to do some research on which GPU is best for you.
Power Supply - EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Fully Modular
Nice, but it seams a little overpriced. The Corsair RM650x is also 80+ Gold and fully modular, but $20 cheaper.
Monitor - I'm tired, so I'm going to bed, but I personally use 2 monitors:
27" 4k 60Hz for content consumption
24" 1080p 144Hz VA for that juicy smooth gaming
I wish I got a 27" 1080p so they'd match in size but the increased pixel density of the 24" is probably better anyway.
Good luck with whatever you decide to build :D
That can handle 1440p no problem. The 970 evo is expensive tho. I've heard the Sabrent Rocket is a great SSD. I'd consider this instead of the 2 drives you listed if you don't have a lot of software and put the money saved to RAM with 3600 MHz speed
Can put one together yourself, for example this https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Enclosure-Adapter-M-Key-External/dp/B07W3TV2MK + https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ . The "early bird" specials on the kickstarters ain't bad but they're also advertising shipping in January and March, they may just be counting on the drives getting cheaper before they ship.
A net não é só pornhub, também é para aprender. :D
Eu já percebi. Olha, esse especifico que disseste. esse é NVME... Como já disseram antes, desses é dificil de encontrar a menos de 100€. A principal diferença é que esses chegam a velocidades de 2000MB/s e os SSD SATA M.2 estão limitados a 600MB/s do sata 3.
Em jogos isto nota-se pouco, se trabalhares com ficheiros grandes (video, photoshop, etc) é que vais notar a sério.
Isto seria a minha recomendação para ti
Esse ultimo tem más reviews (vê no youtube), informa-te
Buy a Crucial P1, it's cheaper and has 500GB, 250GB is really not enough it for gaming unless you have Gbit internet and want to uninstall/download as you wish, but even then.... with games like cod that are up to 120GB... yeah...
For 30$ more you can get 1TB: https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=crucial+p1&qid=1572203616&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWTZOMFhTRkdJNFo4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjcxMDQ1M1UyN1E0MU8xNzZXSyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUExMDM2NDAyMkszTFM3NDRWVDQ2SyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
And with a cheaper PSU/mobo you can get an RX 580/590 or maybe 1660ti. 570 for 185 is way too expensive anyway.
This PC here would honestly be a lot better, mainly due to higher capacity SSD and the noticeably better GPU) and at the same time cheaper:
[PCPartPicker Part List](https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Dxkgwh)
**CPU** | [AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jLF48d/amd-ryzen-5-2600-34ghz-6-core-processor-yd2600bbafbox) | $117.68 @ Amazon
**Motherboard** | [ASRock Fatal1ty B450 GAMING K4 ATX AM4 Motherboard](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Pq97YJ/asrock-fatal1ty-b450-gaming-k4-atx-am4-motherboard-b450-gaming-k4) | $84.99 @ Amazon
**Memory** | [Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QDhKHx/corsair-vengeance-rgb-pro-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-3200-memory-cmw16gx4m2c3200c16) | $84.99 @ Amazon
**Storage** | [Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pxKcCJ/crucial-p1-1tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-ct1000p1ssd8) | $95.99 @ Amazon
**Video Card** | [PowerColor Radeon RX 590 8 GB RED DRAGON Video Card](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KFzkcf/powercolor-radeon-rx-590-8-gb-red-dragon-video-card-axrx-590-8gbd5-dhd) | $189.99 @ Amazon
**Case** | [NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6Cyqqs/nzxt-h510-atx-mid-tower-case-ca-h510b-w1) | $69.98 @ Amazon
**Power Supply** | [Corsair CXM 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/R2mxFT/corsair-power-supply-cp9020103na) | $69.98 @ Amazon
**Wireless Network Adapter** | [Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I PCIe x1 802.11a/b/g/n/ac Wi-Fi Adapter](https://pcpartpicker.com/product/tTdqqs/gigabyte-wireless-network-card-gcwb867di) | $35.52 @ Amazon
| *Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts* |
| **Total** | **$749.12**
| Generated by [PCPartPicker](https://pcpartpicker.com) 2019-10-27 15:21 EDT-0400 |
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6ZpQCbNBNXHP4
Is this good enough??
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_bLyQCbXN2Q83T
Better deal in my opinion only 139.99
No need to split up the drive for a 1 tb drive if you can get this instead.
Yes albeit lower ratio(fixed 256MB at all sizes), regular SSDs use 1GB:1TB ratio
Get crucial P1 same hardware but with regular DRAM size, currently 105$ at amazon
This is QLC so performance is low in sequential performance and endurance isn't as TLC.
How does this compare with the Crucial P1 that is also on sale?
M2 - https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_b3cC8H5_c_x_w ($105.99 at checkout with Prime)
2.5"- https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078DPCY3T/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1 ($175)
Both all-time lows I believe.
Am I wrong that It doesn't worth to pay $115 for the XPG instead of paying $110 for the Sabrent Rocket?
Thank you for your help and attention.
I'm sorry for any inconvenience.
How much better is this than the SB-ROCKET-1TB?
I suggest the sabrent rocket, the read and write speeds are just about the same as the 970 evo plus, while being more than 50% cheaper. I have been using this for months now as my boot drive and it has performed excellent. The only downside is you will need a fresh install of windows.
Get a cheaper 1TB NVMe. You don't need gen 4 and it's nearly double the cost right now. The SX8200 PRO 1tb is on sale at Newegg, at least in the US.. But even something like this is a solid option!
For motherboards, I like the MEG ACE and VIII Hero. I opted for the Hero, personally.. All X570 boards are nice so just get the one with the feature set you like the most. The Phantom Gaming X is very nice as well! Good cheaper options include the Strix, Pro Carbon, Edge and Gigabyte Aorus boards..
RAM, I suggest you get a decent 3600MHz kit.. If you go lower I would overclock it but it looks like RAM isn't as important this time around but I wouldn't get less than 3200MHz..
Question about NVME m.2 SSDs.
Started building a new Ryzen based build during Prime days. Intent was to buy two 1TB SSDs, one for boot+programs and another for games only. Literally only just learned about m.2 during the sale, and with limited education on the subject bought a Crucial P1 1TB from Newegg in a bundle with some ram, with the intention of buying a second if I could catch a sale (I missed them all for that particular drive). In the meantime, I've educated myself on the subject and learned about TLC vs QLC and how QLC speeds can plummet under long usage, and don't work well once 70% or more full.
Doing more research, it seems like the Sabrent Rocket is a very good budget TLC drive, so I'm think I'm going to pick up at least one, but now I'm considering buy two to use over the Crucial P1. Problem is, since it's part of a bundle I can't return it on its own (not to mention having to pay for return shipping) so I'm kinda flummoxed on what to do. In a vacuum where the effort of disposing of the Crucial wouldn't matter, should I get two Sabrents and sell the Crucial, or are the horror stories not a big deal and just keep the Crucial and get one Sabrent. And if I go that route, which one would be better as the gaming drive?
This thread is about month old so not sure if I'll get a response.
I bought this M.2 Drive for my secondary drive and it did not work. It either would not load windows from the primary after installation or the disk manager would not detect even if the BIOS did. What makes it different than the Crucial M.2 or the Sabrent both which have been claimed to work?
I'm pretty much having this exact issue.
EDIT: I returned the ADATA drive and bought the Sabrent. The Sabrent worked fine when I restarted my computer once after the installation.
Ok couple things:
Silicon Power 1TB NVMe PCIe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 TLC R/W up to 3,400/3,000MB/s SSD (SU001TBP34A80M28AB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QdBDDb1SWPSFR
Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3eBDDbSV29VT5
Inland Premium 1TB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCM6DXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mfBDDbBJH08J2
I'd have gone with a different motherboard, preferably one that supports the CPU OOB so you don't have to deal with flashing the bios.
Amazon is currently having a great deal on Rocket's SSD's, which you might want instead:
There's a sabrent rocket 1TB for $113.65 (ymmv with tax) that uses the same phison e12 controller as this. Basically the same but slighter cheaper per GB if you want 1TB.
$20 promo automatically adds to cart at checkout.
I wanna get a m.2 drive, but there are so many companies that I've never heard of. I want to get the Samsung 970 EVO, but that thing is so expensive compared to M.2 SSDs from Addlink, Sabrent and Silicon Power. The thing is, I've never heard of these companies so it makes me wary to buy these SSDs, especially since I'm planning on making it my boot drive. Do I have anything to worry about? Are these SSDs just as good as the Samsung 970 EVO? Does any one have experience with any of these M.2 drives?
Okay, I just had closer look at your motherboard. I assumed you only had 1 m.2 slot, but there are 2, one pci and 1 sata.
The M.2 ssd you got uses SATA. So it's the same speed as the older 2.5 inch drives, which is not bad, but there are m.2 nvme out there, which are roughly the same price and even faster. You can either keep the wd blue or replace it while you can still return your parts. If you choose to keep it, make sure to put it in the m.2 slot with the sata port (M2_2 on your manual) so that the faster pci slot stays free for a possible upgrade in the future.
I think it looks good but I think you're better off with another M.2 ssd to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07LGF54XR. From what you describe, I don't think you'll benefit or notice the speed difference between a cheaper 1TB m.2 drive vs a 500gb Samsung 970 EVO
3700x comes with a pretty good cooler (wraith prism) which also looks cool and is free.
Use the savings to get a better x570 board....
~$160 Asus Prime X570-P
~$190 Asus Tuf gaming x570
~$200 Gigabyte Aorus Elite
Since you are going for x570, why not use an NVMe drive instead of the old SATA? It will be many times faster.
Sabrent Rocket 1tb $110
What monitor will you be using ? What is the resolution and refresh rate? That will determine how much you need to spend on a GPU. the 2080 is great but unless you are playing at 4k or you are a competitive gamer, I'd say you can definitely get something less expensive.
looks pretty solid to me
Go for the Sabrent 1 TB nvme drive. It's the same price but roughly twice as fast.
Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_51TKDbAZYQD3Z
Is it just me or are the reasons to go SATA SSD over m.2 NVME just disappearing? The Sabrent 1TB is cheaper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR
Going off of this list, you shouldn't have any real issues. The m.2 drive warning is just letting you know that any SATA drive plugged in needs to be on a different port than where the m.2 is going to disable. Check the motherboard manual, it should tell you when you're building.
The clearance warning for the cooler shouldn't be a big issue either, I've built with the Cooler Master 212 and Corsair Vengeance before and had no issues.
You can always go with a lesser m.2 drive as well to save a few dollars. Most people won't notice the difference between the Samsung 970 Evo and something like the ADATA drive (which can be generally found for less on sale) or the Sabrent drives.
If I'm incorrect on anything, someone please let me know.
This is a fine build, but usually Samsung drives are overpriced. Nothing particularly wrong with them, but you can get more bang for your buck with things like the intel 660p or the rocket drive that I’m forgetting the name of.
Here’s what I was forgetting
Double the storage for 25% ish more but you get the idea.
I'd aim for at least a Sabrent Rocket or a HP EX920/950.
You can also use this spreadsheet for reference.
Get the Samsung 860 evo: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ytwKDbR49FQTP, fast and reliable. You can also use it if you choose to build a PC later on, note that you will need to buy a ssd external enclosure if you want to use it on your Ps4.
Get an ssd not a hdd, if it’s sata it should have no issues. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8
250GB 860 EVO $49.49 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8
edit: Here's the m.2 one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078218TWQ/ Personally I wouldn't bother unless you're getting at least the 500GB model. For the 250GB, it's like a 40% price increase over the SATA.
Samsung 860 EVO 250 GB $89.26 (850 would work too, but the 860 is better and cheaper right now)
Sabrent USB 3.0 SSD Enclosure $8.99
These are what I use (850) and I've never had a loading issue again. Also if you freeze you can get back in the game in 45 seconds. It also works wonders on other games like BF1.
128GB: Kingston 120GB A400 SATA 3 2.5" Internal SSD SA400S37/120G - HDD Replacement for Increase Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6JQS8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9gpRDbATPRC50
250GB: Samsung SSD 860 EVO 250GB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E250B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07864WMK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qepRDb792VBPC
When trying to decide on what power your PC needs a good website to use is http://gpu.userbenchmark.com/ - it'll give you a general idea since I get confused with all the "i7/i5/i3 XXXX gen X" nonsense too.
That'll build you a tower. Then you just need external components. Monitor, keyboard, mouse, headset, chair, desk, etc. Depending on what you have available and stuff it can vary so I'll let you price out that stuff.
$1,358 pre-taxes if you go with i7 8700k, and GTX 1060 3 GB. For the tower. Taxes in, plus all the other components you're still looking at pushing close to $2000. That's CND I think. If you do a little shopping around you might get a decent deal on a few items and look into different price points between AMD and Intel if you choose their Board/Chip/GPU combos.
depends what you mean by "better"
internal would probably be more effective, however it is much harder to install and you could seriously screw something up in your console if you install it improperly
external is much easier to install and setup, while still giving you a massive boost in speeds
here is what I bought, it is external.. you plug the ssd into the case and plug the case into console, simple as that
It absolutely helps but it has to be a Solid State Drive, not just an external hard drive. I bought this Samsung one back in April and it is actually $12 cheaper than when I bought it. Since that was months ago, someone might have a more current example of which is currently the best on market. I've been very happy with it though.
Sorry about not including more details in the original post. I've included additional info below.
Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA III 1TB Internal SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" SATA III 1TB Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) [Canada Version] https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lFflDbMYR5WGX
Got an ssd for my PC and figured I’d test it out on the Xbox before putting in it there.
My ssd didn’t make it to my PC lol not only does it help with PUBG, but load times in a lot of games benefit.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ipCXflemgfEW4
With this enclosure
Sabrent 2.5-Inch SATA to USB 3.0 Tool-free External Hard Drive Enclosure [Optimized For SSD, Support UASP SATA III] Black (EC-UASP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_VSK1vlJ4IRvgp
Piece of cake to set up. Put the drive in the enclosure (very easy), plug into usb, add games.
Edit- played PUBG on internal hard drive for test and live, vs ssd for both and the benefit is noticeable.
Or if you’re really on a budget
I'm using this enclosure via usb 3.1 gen 2 (USB C)
With 2 of these drives in raid 0
I can play 6k Red footage from dragon at full resolution
Edit: if price doesn’t matter
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Cu4WAbYJDG5X0
Samsung 860 Evo for performance, hands down.
1tb is going to be expensive. on sale:
Faster but a little pricier, better warranty: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536701650&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=1tb+2.5%22+ssd
You can get a adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Tool-free-Enclosure-Optimized-EC-UASP/dp/B00OJ3UJ2S/ref=sr_1_3_acs_ac_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536184457&amp;sr=8-3-acs&amp;keywords=2.5+hard+drive+enclosure for this (if it’s in your budget) https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_3_acs_ac_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536184482&amp;sr=1-3-acs&amp;keywords=Ssd
Careful to be sure it's a slim one; I use this 1TB model and it works great.
Dont worry, it's impossible to know everything about everything.
That is a traditional hdd hard drive. It has a physical spinning disk.
This is an internal ssd. It takes the place of an hdd. They cost more per gb than an hdd.
What a lot of people do is they buy a smaller ssd and put their operating system and commonly used programs on it and then have an hdd at the same time to hold their documents, bigger files, less used programs etc...
There are 2 main types of ssd.
2.5 references the size. Of this size you only need to worry about the SATA. There are other versions that are faster but cost a lot more money
M.2 optane is the second main type. It almost looks like a ram stick and plugs directly into the motherboard like a ram stick. It is faster but a lot more money. In my opinion they aren't worth it.
I'm sure you've already looked at them by now, but I'll at least link you just in case it makes it easier. Here's a 1TB 860 EVO that will have the same general performance (we're talking millisecond differences) and save you $100. You can go even cheaper too with other brands & sales.
I agree...SSD should boot windows in seconds. If you have an evo...many of those have 3-5 year warranty. Go get a clone from the store, send in your old drive then return the new one if you like after repair...or keep it since 1TB Sam or WD (Sam is better) is 150 (175) or so now a days.
Just put a Samsung 1TB Evo 860 in my PS4 (internal). What a HUGE difference. No more loading while riding my sparrow between places, I land on a planet 20 seconds before my fireteam, no UI lag anymore. What a difference! Only $160 on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540310518&sr=8-1&keywords=samsung+evo+860+1tb
Great build, but combine the ssd's
monitor is overpriced as well
And the card is overpriced by 50 dollars a ROG strix card is alot less
(here is a card i couldnt find the strix on pc part picker)
Please contact me if you need anything else :)
Genuinely just curious what the differences are between these 2 SSD 1 TB 860 Evo.. the PRO is nearly double the price?
For save more money you can buy used version at amazon
1tb samsung 860 evo ssd only 139.99 usd
CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) 204-Pin DDR3 SO-DIMM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Laptop Memory Model CMSX16GX3M2A1600C10 price only 99.99 usd
total only 239.98 USD...
Now you can have fast laptop with low budget upgrade
Good Luck Bro
My friend, you're way high on current SSD prices Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hU9VBbNESCEJM
The 860 Pro comes at a hefty premium compared to the 860 Evo (I have no idea why tbh) . See for yourself : 860 Pro (and it's on sale at that), 860 Evo
Definitely no to the SSD. I bought a 120HB ssd ~3 years ago but I'm just upgrading (well, adding a 2nd ssd) to a 1T ssd. It's $127 on amazon right now. You could still keep the 120gb ssd and use it only for windows boot (like what I'm doing).
Wanting to get a 1TB SSD for my PC. I don't have a specific budget set, but I'm trying to go for the cheapest option that doesn't make major sacrifices to quality. I had the 860 EVO recommended to me, and I had the Western Digital Blue and Crucial MX500 recommended if they are more than $5 cheaper than the EVO.
Could I get a second opinion on them? Thanks!
Not eBay, but Amazon has 1TB 860 for 128.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PLD9BbAX9R7BF
Not exactly $100 at $127, but this is probably the one you want...
This isn't the drive you're looking for, but I ordered an 860 EVO 1TB for $128. ICICI charged me 9600 rupees for it, which means their exchange rate is exactly 75 right now.
Now if you go to Amazon and try to ship that same SSD to India, they charge $128 + $60 for import fees and shipping. At 75 per dollar, that comes out to 14,100 bucks.
That same drive is currently 18,300 on onlyssd.com.
Black Friday deals are crazy. The drive is 25% cheaper even after acche din import duties. Definitely look at all your options before buying locally.
The thing about 1060s right now is that every prebuilt has one in them so the companies and move on to bigger and better fish, it's not a bad card by any means.
I've never played WoW, but I do know these specs massively surpass the recommended:
@ $1000 on Amazon
Get a 1tb Samsung SSD for ~130 or 2tb SSD for ~300
Here's a benchmark with an i3 8100 and a 1060 3gb running WOW on Ultra.
You can expect better framerates with the better CPU. I3 8100 vs I7 8700
Thanks! It looks like Amazon have the same deal as well.
Hey friend, happy cake day, get yourself a reasonably priced SSD. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=twister_B079P94LLX?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I agree, especially with all the sales going on right now.
Instead of a cheap 240GB SSD + cheap 1TB HDD, you could fit a [1TB Samsung EVO SSD $128] (https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T) and still be within his budget.
That way don't have do deal with 2 different storage units.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n0w-Bb6TVYGFG
I've upgraded a MacBook Pro 2015 with a Samsung EVO 860. Worked great.
I got the Samsung 860 EVO. I bought the 1 TB, but I'm sure the 500gb will work just as well.
Get an SSD. That is going to improve performance so much. It's honestly the best bang for your buck upgrade. You can also always move the SSD to a new desktop or future laptop as well so it's not money wasted.
I have personally put SSDs in older laptops for my self and family and we've all been happy with the results. It makes the computer fast as far as load times and daily tasks go. It's not going to speed up heavy CPU intensive tasks. But if you watch videos, browse the internet, do simple things like that, it's night and day.
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_6OKBCbY64VS6V
This is one I've bought 2 of so far. Great performance for the money and plenty of storage. Old spin type HDDs are such a huge bottle neck. Especially in laptops where they put slow spin HDDs to conserve battery usage.
Step 2 would be ram upgrade, but it's not going to be as dramatic as the SSD upgrade. If you have 4gb of ram just leave it be. If you find a good deal on a 4gb stick for like $20 or less on Facebook market or something like that I'd upgrade it. I wouldn't put a whole lot of money into the computer. The only reason I recommend the SSD is because traditional HDDs are such a huge bottleneck that once lifted , makes even an i3 shine. And like I mentioned earlier that SSD you can use in future computers.
Amazon.ca link. A whole one cent off!
There's a 1tb 860 for 167 Amazon
Samsung 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tw7PBb2QF5NWW
Best one for the money by far. It's what I use on all of my gadgets, including my PC, PS4 Pro, and Xbox One X. It's what I put in every PC I build for Friends and family. There are cheaper options but you start losing out on performance.
Thank you a lot, I'll probably get something like this one. It has a lot of storage, something I've ran out of twice over the time I've had this PC, and it'll connect with ports my motherboard already has.
I bought this one when it was at $129 and couldn't be happier. It's on sale right now too.
Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-76E1T0B/AM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_9tS3Db393AT1P
Well, if you're not doing any gaming or content creation (video/photo editing), there won't be a huge difference (at least, not after a few runs, it takes a while for it to determine what should be cached).
For reliability, I'd probably recommend an SSD, but not a TeamGroup one. Something like a Samsung or WD or Crucial would be a better option if you're concerned about reliability.
SSDs aren't as expensive as you think - prices have been falling drastically. I highly suggest saving up for one - something like a Samsung 860 EVO
1 TB is $147, whereas a 500 GB is a bargain price of $77.99!
Samsung 860 evo 2.5in. Get whatever size capacity you like
Yes you can, are but those are expensive. I got myself 1TB Samsung 860 evo https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T
If/when I need more space I will get external sdd (link has both hdd and sdd listed) https://www.gamesradar.com/best-hard-drive-for-ps4/
If you end up getting an m.2 ssd you'll need to make sure it's compatible with your mobo. It'll either come in an m.2 sata or m.2 nvme ssd. The 1tb 860 Evo falls right in your budget
The 2.5" 860 Evo 1TB also has the 20% off. $112.37 - 20% = $90 + tax. Select buy used.
Good to hear about the ram! That’s the next thing I do on my Mac.
Samsung 850 series is a solid SSD. Have one in my gaming pc but only a 250gb.
It’s also currently on sale on amazon
If not that crucial also makes good SSD’s
Let me know if that works out for ya
Type|Amazon|3rd Party New
Lowest|$177.99 on Sep 02, 2018|$197.99 on Aug 30, 2018
Highest|$329.99 on Jan 23, 2018|$627.59 on Jun 25, 2018
I am a bot; please send comments/questions to github issues
Just spotted this on the prime sale, NVMe for even cheaper than the one listed.
1TB NVME SSD for $99 US
Ya I'd say just spend a little bit more and get a 1tb NVME SSd which is much faster. Otherwise looks good, I like the 2070 Super since it's close to 1080 TI and 2080 performance.
Looks good to me. The only things that I would change is the motherboard to something that has 4 slots for RAM just in case you want more RAM in the future and a 1tb SSD instead of 500gb. I have a 500gb SSD and it filled up quickly. Probably sitting at 80% full if I had to take a guess. I picked up this SSD for $80 on Amazon today because it was on sale for Prime Day. If you're not a Prime member you can still take up the deals you see though by creating a prime account and then cancelling it after you get your items in the mail (first 30 days of Prime are free). I know a lot of people that have done this. You won't be charged anything for creating a Prime account. They will ask for credit card info though but that's to keep it on record if you were to keep the account.
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R8hlDbCSXN69G
How is this ssd? Is this a reliable NVME drive? Says its 106$ with prime deals for 1tb
I have an issue trying to buy a prime deal item. (https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-1TB-NAND-NVMe-PCIe/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&ref_=mh_s9_acsd_simh_b3cC8H5_c_x_2_w)
Whenever I try to actually add the item to cart and check out, at some point in the process it'll remove the prime deal and even remove it from my cart before I can make the payment. It'll come back randomly but it keeps doing it. Please help.
This was just $80: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_epglDbC37HVZB
Looks like prime day sale ended however :( Keep checking for new deals!
NVME drives are the way to go.
I thought this too, yet you can get a 1TB Nvme for pretty much the same price. Such as this one
Not a USB stick Per Se, but close enough
it goes right on the mother board and you dont have to install the ssd with a bracket. plus it's faster and can hold more storage
Nah the psu is perfectly fine. Don’t think they’ll be going for a 2080 TI plus you won’t find any sfx with a higher wattage than 600 (Corsair has one for 750w) but it’s expensive. I have a similar set up except the 600w Gold rated on a gtx 980 and an i7-9700k, nearly identical set up
You’re spot on about the m.2.
WD Blue 3D NAND 1TB PC SSD - SATA III 6 Gb/s, M.2 2280 - WDS100T2B0B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SB2MXT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ph4lDbW120T9Z
This one is good though not NvMe fast speeds,
The one OP has is solid and it’s on sale $150 isn’t bad for an NvMe 1tb but here are ones a little cheaper
Silicon Power 1TB NVMe PCIe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 TLC R/W up to 3,400/3,000MB/s SSD (SU001TBP34A80M28AB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L6GF81L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tj4lDb7HY225A
Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD - CT1000P1SSD8 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J2Q4SWZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1j4lDb9MCJZFM
Kingston Digital SA1000M8/960G A1000 960GB PCIe NVMe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C8NNQ4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ml4lDb73E6M6P
Well in that case, here is a link to the 2TB Intel 660p. I prefer the 660p at higher capacities because the NAND/flash is denser and you need a certain amount of dies to saturate the controller (even a four-channel one like the SM2263). The SM2263 is very similar to the SM2262/EN actually, just with half the channels, but it performs very similarly for normal workloads. The 660p only has 256MB of DRAM cache for all capacities (rather than the normal 1GB:1TB ratio) while the Crucial P1 - which shares the same hardware - would have 2GB at 2TB (although it's hard if not impossible to find the 2TB SKU). I've covered this previously but basically this is not a huge concern for that type of drive. The 2TB 660p will always have at least 24GB of SLC cache regardless of used capacity but doesn't do well with sustained writes at speed outside of this cache. Keep in mind that if you do stripe these, your effective cache will be doubled.
Here is also a link to the 1TB Sabrent Rocket which is often on sale and is one of the most popular E12 drives. Be sure to check Sabrent's site for software (formatting utility for 4Kn or 512e, as needed) and if you buy it, register for the five-year warranty. Firmware should already be updated for it, but I have a post somewhere with the newest firmware revision that applies to all E12 drives. Cooling may be a concern with sustained writes - this is a different topic I've also covered in detail with many posts. To be brief, it can be ideal to cool the controller but for consumer usage you're fine with worrying about aesthetics. As such, the Ace with its included M.2 heat shields is sufficient.
There are a few differences between the Ace and the Master. I ended up choosing the Master. For fast storage purposes, though, they are comparable.
LOL this is not how thermal dynamics works
You can just leave the M.2 sheild off as you have to remove it to install the M.2 anyway.
Or get this NVME without a heatsink -https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGF54XR/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I would change out the ssd for an nvme one like the Sabrent Rocket for about the same price and you could also go to a 5700xt if your willing to spend a little extra.
You can order them from Amazon.de with free shipping. They are around 900kr/120€ for the 1TB model, and much better than the p1/660p.
even the better sx8200pro for 5€ more:
I just built my own PC with the 1TB Sabrent Rocket M.2 SSD. It’s a little bit more expensive, but I’d say it’s worth it for twice the storage.
Edit: M.2 NVME SSDs are also much faster!
Hmm if they don't honor it would you say this from Amazon is a good deal/alternative? I think it gets down to $100
Check this one out Sabrent 1TB Rocket NVMe PCIe M.2 2280 Internal SSD High Performance Solid State Drive (SB-ROCKET-1TB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LGF54XR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aVz2DbEPCYM4B
The coupons for Sabrent Rocket SSDs on Amazon.ca are back. $8 off the 500gb model and $19 off 1tb.
When it comes to console storage, hybrid drives are a waste of money, sometimes performing even slower than the stock drive. The solid-state section of the drive is simply too small to be used effectively as a cache, and the OS isn't set up to handle it like that.
You can pick up a 2.5-inch external drive for $86, pop the enclosure open, and pull the drive out. Although it's a 5400RPM, the sheer areal density makes it effectively much faster than its spec implies.
Newegg and Best Buy also carry that drive, currently for $90. It's relatively easy to pop out, because the enclosure is held together with adhesive instead of plastic clips. There are several Youtube videos that will give you some visual aid.
Be aware that removing the drive from the enclosure will void its warranty (but upgrading the PS4's storage will not void the PS4's warranty).
Edit: It's probably worth spending $8 more to get the bare drive, since its warranty will remain intact.
Is this the same one as the one going for $89 at Amazon? If so, I'd much rather deal with Amazon.
If you have the OG PS4, I had the Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0. Usually it's around $60-70. Just pop it out of the external enclosure if you want it internal on PS4 (faster speed,cleaner, frees up a USB port) or connect via USB for external (slower, bit messy and uses a USB port).
Before I sold my OG PS4 I took mine out, reformatted and I use it for my Xbox One S.
I now have the WD - My Passport 3TB External USB 3.0 Portable Hard Drive for the PS4 Pro. Got it for around $80 when it was on sale and had Best Buy rewards. So 4TB total including the 1TB on the Pro. Lots of space for 2D and PSVR games!
It really depends on how much you want to spend. You can get a 2TB drive for less than $100, and a 1TB drive is even cheaper. I went with a standard HDD, but you can also go with an SSD (solid state) if you want the best performance. I've not looked at the load time differences between drive types (SSD vs HDD) but its a matter of a few seconds.
Heres a nice article with suggested drives: http://www.gamesradar.com/best-hard-drive-for-ps4/
The big thing to remember is you need to get a 2.5 inch laptop drive. The 3.5 inch desktop drives wont fit.
One last tip. Oddly enough, the external hard drives in a case like this are sometimes cheaper than their "naked" counterparts.
I recommend getting one with a case. You'll need to use a screwdriver to crack open the case to get the actual drive out, but afterwards, you can place the 500GB drive from the PS4 into the case, and get yourself a nice 500 GB external drive to use.
2TB this has to be removed from the case and installed as a internal drive. It is cheaper buying it this way than without the case.
6tb for mega space it protrudes from the top a bit but creates a nice spot for your psvr breakout box to sit next to. There is no version of the 6TB setup for pspro that I am aware of not sure if they have a db for the slim. I have 2 OG systems running on both of these setups.
This is a steal. Just get this drive grab a screwdriver, get a usb or any storage drive you have.
This is the one that is recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Backup-Portable-External-STDR2000100/dp/B00FRHTSK4
Have to take it out the shell yourself. I just bought one this week and am waiting for my slim to arrive Friday.
It seems to be the standard one that this sub recommends.
If you just got the ps4 and are worried about space, look into upgrading the PS4's hard drive. This is the one most recommend It will quadruple the storage space you have, which is nice. Here is a step by step guide on how to install it, it'll save you a ton of time down the road if you choose to upgrade early on.
2TB Seagate external, USB 3.0
See it on Amazon here
Definitely cheaper to get one online.
In fact, this is the exact model I bought.
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Portable External Hard Drive with Mobile Device Backup USB 3.0, Black (STDR2000100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTSK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c8royb3HYK779
After I took it out of the case and did the swap I actually put the old PS4 hard drive into it and it now acts as one of my external drives for my Xbox one ha ha
This is an Amazon.ca Featured Deal and is set to expire at 3:00 am (presumably March 21). Act fast! Best Buy Canada and Futureshop will price match this deal, bringing the price down to around $97
An excellent price on a 2TB external drive that can be easily removed from the casing and installed in a PS4. I picked one of these up a couple of weeks ago and did exactly that and it fits and works perfectly.
To remove the drive, carefully pry the metal top cover from the bottom plastic case. This can be done by hand or using a small screwdriver. Once the case is open, remove the drive and unplug from the USB interface board. Then just follow the Sony instructions for replacing the drive. Be sure to backup your game save data first so that it can be restored to the new drive afterwards.
The drive fits perfectly in the PS4 and meets the specs that Sony specifies for the console. If you're looking for extra storage in your PS4, this is a great way to expand at a reasonable price.
As an added bonus, you can install your old PS4 500GB drive in the case and use that as an external USB drive afterwards.
Edit: Our American friends can get the same drive from Amazon.com for $89 which is a pretty good deal.
So i got a external HD and took it out of the case. its called Back up plus slim
It works flawlessly. was very easy to install.
I'll get the Seagate 2TB external HDD and disassemble it.
Read this post for more info on how to install this HDD.
If it's just sitting on your desk with a webcam on it, that's fine. Heat from gaming is normal, just make sure you're not blocking its ventilation.
Yep, make sure you're using "sleep" and not "shut down." Sleep is actually better for the computer than a full shut down. You can configure it to automatically sleep in System Preferences > Energy Saver.
The Seagate Backup Plus Slim is highly-rated and is said to be reliable. I think the 1 TB version is a great value. Avoid the 4 TB version though; it won't be as reliable.
Which external hard drive is better and why?
This or This
$80 for blue or silver sounds good for 2tb. Its an external drive so you'd have to pry it open to remove the HDD but I think I remember seeing a guide for using this drive somewhere on here not too long ago.
Huh, I just so happened to be looking into this.
Here's a very relevant reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/sailing/comments/5vf88d/wifi_booster_systems_for_long_range_access/
What I plan on doing is using the ubiquity bullet as a point to point bridge connected to a Linksys WRT AC1200 and rebroadcasting the signal in the boat. Also since I'm a photographer I plan on using a portable hard drive as a NAS to backup my work and store media.
Just ordered the router and hard drive and I'm waiting till my next check to get the bullet, POE injector, and the antenna.
If you would like I can provide an update after I get everything up and running.
[EDIT] I forgot to mention the Linksys WRT router had two selling points for me. 1. OPEN WRT capable. 2. Uses 12v DC so I can wire it directly into the boat without having to use an inverter and waste energy.
Got a good deal on this so this is what I'll be using for the time being (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRHTSK4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
It should work fine for the moment. And thank you, that's exactly the answer I was looking for.
It's worth investing in a bigger HDD, 500gbs just doesn't cut it after a while, this 2TB external is one of the more commonly recommended ones. All you gotta do is pop the case off and you just save yourself $20 or so compared to its internal counterpart, plus you can put your old HDD in there and have yourself a nice 500gb external.
[here] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FRHTSK4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) is the one i bought
use the guide over on the sidebar, I did mine a few days ago and everything went really smooth
in hindsight i wish I had an extra hdd to back up all my games on it first, I'm going to be downloading games for a while
Bought the exact same drive on Nov 23rd.
Just checked the drive, I have the same logo on my drive too.
Got this 2 weeks ago. Was going to get the "official" Xbox branded green one also by Seagate but wasn't a fan of the color and this one is basically the exact same except it comes in black and when I got it was $80.
This is the one I bought and it was easy to install. You can use this guide that has pictures:
I am a tech simpleton and I figured it out haha. Hope this helps.
id recommend getting this portable HDD. i got this and its a good hdd
Here are the CrystalDiskMark results for an external mechanical drive I have. Remember to multiply by 8 to get the speed in megabits. 140 megabytes/second = 1120 megabits/second. http://imgur.com/sQ1TW3g
The drive: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-HN-M201RAD-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/
The enclosure: http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Tool-Free-Enclosure-UASP/dp/B00FCLG65U/
EDIT: If you were wondering what happened, the person I was replying to claimed no hard drive got better speeds than 180 megabits per second.
If you do decide to spend a little more. This is the exact drive I got. A year on and I've had no issues at all.
I have a seedbox that I use. The laptop does get pretty warm when transferring files via FileZilla, but I bought a small desktop fan I turn on high speed while I transfer data. I also elevate the back of the laptop about a half inch with a folded piece of paper to help cool it better.
This is the HD I'm looking at: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003-Notebook/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=cm_rdp_product
Also, thank you!
Best internal hard drive for ps4. I installed one myself. Runs perfect. http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003-Notebook/dp/B00I8O6OQ4
Here's just the internal hd for price comparison http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003-Notebook/dp/B00I8O6OQ4
And here's how you'd pop it open
This would fit the ps4 and its 2TB
(Accidentally responded to wrong post this is in response to stray bullet)
Dude just give it up...you have no clue what your talking about.
Here is the drive inside the enclosure. It's a normal 2.5" laptop drive.
Article with benchmarks:
This is the only one I know that does not have a case:
You can't use an external hdd via usb. You have to buy one to replace your 500gb. Here's a 2gb hdd for 90 bucks.
I wouldn't use any of them.
If you can spare $100, get one of these - it'll be faster, more reliable, and last longer.
I got a 2TB usb 3.0 external drive for my xbox one on my birthday(dec 5th) and when i installed it i followed these steps.
Hope this helped, I just did it myself, but if you're willing to spend $140 on a 2tb expansion drive for your xbox I would suggest doing it with these.
$40 - 2.5" Hard Drive Enclosure & 3 Front USB 3.0 Ports Media HUB - Xbox One
$100 - 2.5" Sata HDD
Googling that model shows its a notebook. be sure to check thickness, because its a notebook. Somthing like this: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-HN-M201RAD-Momentus-SpinPoint-ST2000LM003/dp/B00I8O6OQ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426126743&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=9.5MM+2.5%22
looks like it will fit. Normally i would research it for you but i have to get some sleep for school but i see no reason why it would deviate from the normal notebook HDD size. If you could confirm that i will help you find a good hard drive for that computer.
Only had a few weeks, seems okay. Apart from the squeaky noises, I assume recalibration noises.
I'm going to guess something between 2-8 gigs for RoI. I've heard a lot of rumblings of guardians running low on space. This HDD has been running strong for myself since June last year, no issues, decent price, and super fast to install
I have had no problems with this one and it is the same brand they use for the systems.
Like how cheap? What's your budget?
When I replaced my internal drive with this one, I got it for $89.00 by clicking where it says "Used & new (16) from $79.00 & FREE shipping." and it was brand new, not used. So I think that was cheap but I'm not sure what you consider to be cheap.
I had around 1.77 TB free before installing anything.
I bought this one:
If you're looking to go for the 2 TB option, I believe there is only one HDD on Amazon that will work. I have it, and I installed one in both my PS4 and my buddy's PS4. Here is a LINK to said hard drive.
The one i bought on amazon is sold out but i just got a seagate 2tb for about 60$. Seagate is a very good and common brand.
Edit: here is the link to the same one i bought but mine was on sale from a different seller.
Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I8O6OQ4
People will suggest the external drive, that's fine but remember when you pull it out of the case the warranty is VOID. This one comes with a two year warranty.
Install and move everything over, then you have nothing to worry about. Honestly, if you have the money just go for it then you don't have to deal with it down the road. I did it for that very reason.
Also, just a heads up you only have a one year warranty on the PS4 unless you purchased an extended one from the store you bought it from. If you're worried about that, I'd drop the money on the Protection Plan they sell in the PS store. $54 for three years including accidents? That's a $1.50 a month to not worry about my PS4 for three years. Yes please.
I actually just upgraded my hard drive and did a bit amount of research into it. Depending on the specs, there are definitely some differences in load times but all in all they are pretty negligible. Look for articles on IGN or others that will give you rest results. You will have to spend 200-400 for a nice one and still will save only 5 seconds or so on load times. I went for this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I8O6OQ4. 2 TB for about 100 dollars and great reviews as far as compatibility and performance.
Here's a good Article: http://www.eurogamer.net/articles/digitalfoundry-2014-ps4-hard-drive-upgrade-guide
Correct. There's actually a few games I play that take up quite a bit of space so I definitely need at least 1TB. The other user said for an xbox I'd just be better off getting this
I used a Seagate 2TB in my PS4 and I can tell you it does fit
It could be, there is no reason that should not have worked. Replacement is easy though. There are instructions on the website but here is a link to ign http://m.ign.com/wikis/playstation-4/How_to_Replace_a_PS4_Hard_Drive. If you have the money I would upgrade to a larger drive as well. I used the Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_Y.D4xbH4S7AF2.
Guessing you mean hard drive space for more games?
I use a older model of this which has worked great for the past 2 years or so. There's plenty to choose from
Oh wow didn't realize that.
Would that be better to buy instead? Its 64$ on amazon, I didn't realize it was overpriced. I may end up waiting for black friday to buy one..
Depends on what you're after. If you just need storage and aren't concerned with loading times, go with a hdd. If you want super fast loading times, go with ssd. I personally got this one and it works great for me. And it's USB 3.0 so it's technically a little faster than the internal hard drive. But some people want shorter loading times, so they shell out the cash for a ssd, but the price for the capacity was just too high for me. Plus it has the added bonus of being plug and play, so it's easy to transport if I wanna bring games to a friend's house.
I buy the Seagate 2tb portable drives all the time - I like to yank the drives out of them for game consoles and PC's, but the enclosures are nice and handy too.
This one is on sale for $69 currently: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Portable-External-STEA2000400/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497633141&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=seagate+2tb+external+hard+drive
These sometimes drop to $69 from time to time: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FRHTTJE/ref=twister_B01CQV9RDG?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Or make sure you're signed up for the Newegg newsletters, they both come across at $65 on occassion.
I currently have 5 of these drives in operation and have had no issues with them.
The save data will remain on your PS4. The HDD will only hold game install data.
I think max size supported is actually 8gb, but you're talking fairly big bucks for that. Not sure where you are in the world but drives like this
are fairly economic in terms of cost, and the 2tb version is only around 60
Realistically, a 2tb in conjuction with the 1tb drive you already have will give you so much storage that I doubt you'd need much more, but obviously that's subjective.
There is a detailed page here
Ah, so you do have a laptop. Yeah... you'd have to copy all the data over from your old drive to your new drive, if you were to get a larger internal drive. Definitely possible, but not always easy.
You may want to ask a local store how much they'll charge to move the data over to your new disk. If they do it for free, it's a great value, though I doubt they'll do it for free due to the small price difference I found online.
A 2TB external disk from seagate: here. - $64
A 1TB internal disk (half the space!): here - $66.
2 TB WD black drive: here - $65
... So apparently an external disk is cheaper. Go for it!
Edit: Also, most laptops don't have the storage space for an additional drive. That's why I keep mentioning "desktop" - desktops have a ton of storage space.
You may want to google your laptop, and the query "m.2 SSD?" because some laptops have a m.2 slot on the motherboard. Spending the $100 on a internal M.2 and an additional $60 on an internal HDD would be great, though you'd have to be comfortable with moving the OS to the new M.2.
Also, I added a WD black external HDD above, same price as the seagate.
I also got the Seagate. So far so good.
Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ySlRBb1B1NVVF
here's the one i got for 60!
There's that and then there's also this SeaGate 2TB for $70. Reddit, what should I get?
No I formatted it as Ext4.
It’s a 2TB drive.
Every External HD with usb3 i use this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ for some time now and had no problems
If it's the same model as this:
Seagate Expansion 2TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0 (STEA2000400) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Tcjyyb7DK962S
Then yes, I installed this in my ps4pro as soon as it arrived. Works completely fine.
Seagate Expansion 2TB USB 3.0 Portable 2.5 inch External Hard Drive https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00TKFEE5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RNnzyb9486R2S
Price has risen in the last few days. But it's still cheaper than a stand alone HDD.
Other brands and models will also work. Just make sure it's the right size HDD and you'll be fine.
2TB is fine. I have one. Go for 2TB.
Get this one
Pop the case off and use the internal 2.5in 9.5mm drive as your upgrade. Reuse your old PS4 drive with the case as an external backup for the PS4.
I personally use This one. It has a 3 terabyte model and a 1 terabyte model.
This is what I have connected to my Xbone. Runs like a charm. Haven't had any speed issues.
I picked up one of these on sale for $35 a while ago. Works great.
Yeah, that would be awesome. I have a Seagate Expansion (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TKFEE5S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) connected to mine but I'd want the USB hub compartment too - I would definitely buy the hub for that.
I really like this - such a great idea.
I think I'd go with the Sandisk as it's cheaper now. Not sure there's really all that much performance difference. https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-240GB-SDSSDA-240G-G26-Newest-Version/dp/B01F9G43WU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483809969&amp;sr=8-1
Thank you. What about this one?
SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-240G-G26 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G43WU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0f2KAbEKA7KMA
hint: put a newline between a quote and your response so it doesn't become part of the quote
> like this
> like this
Totals out to $317. Extra ~$35 to go up to an 8GB stick of RAM.
Even 240GB will work. But, I believe that's the absolute bare minimum. Bought this guy along with an enclosure and it's been working like a dream:
SanDisk SSD PLUS 240GB Solid State Drive - SDSSDA-240G-G26 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F9G43WU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_93MWAbDX3HW9D