Best dead-blow hammers according to redditors

My suggestions:

• Do samples, sewing through several layers and experimenting with different needles, threads, and stitch lengths;
  
  
• For the seam intersections, use a tool like a Jean-a-Ma-Jig, which raises the fabric to keep it level under the presser feet;
  
  
• If there will be no other alterations, consider trimming some of the fabric at the intersections to reduce the layers;
  
  
• Pin and then baste the hem to control it;
  
  
• Pound the intersections with a rubber-headed sewing hammer;
  
  
• Try a topstitching foot, which has a blade that moves along the fold of the jeans.
  
  
• If you have no topstitching foot, take a ruler, tailor's chalk and draw a line to sew on;
  
  
• Should the stitching continue to be irregular, don't use contrast thread. Find an indigo color that blends with the denim.
  

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.

MINIMUM TOOL LIST

$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal

NICE TO HAVE

$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal

WORKBENCH

$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal

GRAND TOTAL

$840

-The black case is Veritas' Cabinetmaker's Installation Kit
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=71776&cat=1,41504
It includes:
-Low-Angle Jack Plane w/ 2 blades
-3 Butt chisels
-Flush-Cut saw
-2 Japanese Milled-Tooth files (flat and half-round)

The shoulder plane is Veritas Medium shoulder plane
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,41182,41192,48430&p=48430

Hammer is Thor with soft and hard face
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001P0YF0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A set of 4 Veritas Super-Hard milled scrapers
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=32670&cat=1,310,41069

And last is Rockler quick release front vise
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RH16O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Buy some Kroil.

PB Blaster is crap compared to Kroil.

Soak it for a few days.

Get a LARGE dead blow hammer, throw that rubber mallet away.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Dead-Blow-Hammer-Pound/dp/B01N6E0HEI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?adgrpid=61542713488&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9fDb983L5QIVAcJkCh17UAmFEAAYASAAEgJ7H_D_BwE&hvadid=274683341715&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9006156&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=536682105666190173&hvtargid=kwd-296644580288&hydadcr=20374_9349029&keywords=dead+blow+hammer&qid=1572700513&sr=8-6

It works. Both Paul Sellers and Richard Maguire use this guy: https://smile.amazon.com/Thor-712R-Faced-Hammer-Handle/dp/B0001P0YF0 (as do I, but I don't have their credentials)

urethane covered steel handle with a shot filled head that absorbs shock.

Looks to be a three-footer, which would make it 11 or so pounds like this
one

A screw driver handle isn't going to do it. You need something like this fret hammer. The buzzing is definitely a leveling issue and not bad placement. I have a Cordoba and they are well made but the dealer you bought it from could have set it up better. I had to discover this process when I first got mine. I ran through it once and It's been fine for 5 or so years of daily playing ever since.

Cat insurance

It's just a solid bar, right? PB blaster for the spray or alternatively Liquid wrench. Dead blow hammer works great for this shit but aren't usually super cheap. This bitch.

From left to right, top to bottom:

• Brace brace and bit (hand drill)
  
• Stanley number 4 1/2 plane
  
• Mortise Gauge
  
• Marking Gauge
  
• Flat file
  
• Old Paramo Saw
  
• Green stick of buffing compound
  
• Can with an oil soaked rag in it
  
• Am Tech 45mm Panel Hammer
  
• Thor Soft Faced Hammer
  
• Cheap Aldi chisels
  
• Stanley Knife
  
• Combination square

My Brother has fixed feed dogs, which makes it impossible to sew thicker fabrics. I bought a sewing hammer to make thick seams flatter, but haven't used it yet. Most of the sewing I've done lately has been in classes in which I've been able to use industrial machines. I'm not able to buy a machine right now, but I'd love Juki industrial. They're big, but they make a beautiful stitch and the presser feet and binders are reasonably priced.

This is the one I have (actually can’t remember if it’s this one or the next size up). Don’t know if it’s better or worse than other brands, but I’ve had it for years and hasn’t broken or needed the faces replaced.

First buy some pin punches, like Grace or Tekton (avoid going cheap, they always break).

Then of course a proper hammer

Then some starter punches

Then some finishing punches (I know they say starter but they're better for finishing)

Yes, it costs money, but they pay for themselves. Also you don't have to dick around with taping things off as much if you have proper tools. The brass punches and the pin capturing starter punches help IMMENSELY in this area.

I used these long roll pin punches:

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WADKN0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this bench block so I had room to punch the pins the whole way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047WKF84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

and this is the hammer I used (kinda can see it in the picture)

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

​

​

​

• Gas Block: http://aeroprecisionusa.com/750-lo-pro-gas-block.html
  
• Punches: https://www.amazon.com/Grace-USA-Gunsmithing-Gunsmith-Accessories/dp/B007WADKN0
  
• Wrench: https://www.amazon.com/Sports-AR15-Combo-Wrench-PJTW3/dp/B005LVMSD0
  
• Hammer: https://www.amazon.com/SE-8355HH-Dual-Interchangeable-Hammer/dp/B000Z7GGKQ/ref=pd_sim_469_26?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZ7XM5ZR3F93RWF9NBA4
  
• Handguard of your choice, (M-LOK, KeyMod, Picatinny)
  
  
• Doesn't have to be these exact items. Just as a reference so you know kinda what to look for.
  

I much prefer coin rings with the writing on the outside and inside, like this.

I tried to make one for my girlfriend's birthday this year, but it was fairly difficult.

I used a punch and die set to punch out the center of the coin, and then put the coin on a ring mandrel and then hammered it down the taper slowly with a nylon faced hammer.

The biggest problem is that my girlfriends ring finger is quite small and I couldn't get the ring any smaller than size 8. I may have to pick up another mandrel with a really narrow top so that I can punch out a smaller hole from the coin to begin with.


I'm sure with enough practice I'll get it looking great, and this method is much quicker than the spoon method (I tried that one first).

Not knockin OPs ring though.. it looks great so far. I know how long it takes to get to that point!

That sounds like a very useful tool, but comes to about £140 here (that's what 200 bucks?). Unfortunately we're pretty strapped for cash as a volunteer outfit so we just work with regular bargain basement shit or what we get in donations from old people emptying out their garages as they prepare for the cold embrace of death. Would definitely look into one if this was my day job though.

Wheeler stuff is okay for one or two builds, but if you plan on tools lasting I would buy them separately. I bought wheeler initially and now have 8 ar's and have re-purchased all tools because the wheeler stuff doesn't last. I like the tapco intrafuse wrench because it has the necessary bottle opener, roll pin punches, plastic/metal hammer, allen keys, PRI upper block, pro mag lower block and if you have a free float handguard I use this spanner.



Edit: On my armalite ar-10t, the FF handguard requires a strap wrench so keep that in mind if you plan to deal with those.

Nice list!

I'm also a non-professional mechanic, but here are my additions:

> Dead-blow hammer http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-3188-Dead-Hammer-3-Pound/dp/B000NPT648/

> Impact Driver http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-19620-2-Inch-Driver-Impact/dp/B002O16UPM/ - This + the dead blow hammer will save you a lot of stripped Phillips (or JIS) screws on older bikes.

> Carb Sync Tool http://www.650ccnd.com/mano.htm - This is one you can probably live without, and you can buy something pre-made, but the cost-functionality ratio can not be beat on this one

Hi I'm searching for a hammer/mallet type instrument of destruction...that isn't all that destructive. I saw these Japanese chisel hammers people were apparently also using on planes and some dual sided hammers with a soft and a harder side which made me wonder if there was one that would work on both wood and metal without damaging either one. Specifically I hope to use it to adjust a wooden plane requiring me to hit both metal and wood. I'm trying not to spend a lot of money to start out with so I want to avoid things that go into the realm of luxury tools.

cheaper dual sided hammer without replaceable ends

dual sided hammer with replaceable ends and higher price

japanese steel hammer (flat/domed ends)

I bought mine on Amazon.

In most of my work, I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Thor-712R-Faced-Hammer-Handle/dp/B0001P0YF0

However, if I am doing something like a bed or large table with long, wide, and deep mortises (e.g. 4-6” long, 1/2-3/4” wide, 1.5-2” deep, times 8), I will switch to a larger wooden joiners mallet. My wrist thanks me the next day.