Best dog halter harnesses according to redditors
We found 331 Reddit comments discussing the best dog halter harnesses. We ranked the 150 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 331 Reddit comments discussing the best dog halter harnesses. We ranked the 150 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I used to use the head collar, and I did get that reaction a lot. From people asking "Why is your dog wearing a muzzle?", to people simply stating "That dog's got a muzzle" as I pass, to people seeing us coming and quickly crossing the road. Really it doesn't bother me that much, I just think it's really silly that people think a thin strip of nylon can snap her mouth shut and keep her from biting or something...it really looks like the least effective muzzle haha. And really it is better to have people stop and ask before just running up and petting her. But the explanation is pretty easy: "No, she's not wearing a muzzle, it's a training tool that keeps her from pulling because she just gets so excited on walks!"
I got away from using it because I think it ended up stressing my dog out more...I use the Freedom No Pull Harness now and I love it. Worth taking a look at if you haven't tried it already, IMO! It won't prevent a dog from pulling if they're determined--I use it in conjunction with training to heel and look at me--but when my dog does decide to try to plow ahead it's way easier to handle her and the pressure is not on her neck or face.
I bike with my dog and use this bike attachment, this harness and also [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002IJQDC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for her paws. She loves it. Here's some pics.
He's adorable! I hope you both have many years of puppy love and companionship together!
I also hope you consider his safety in a vehicle :) Something like the item in the link would help keep him safe :)
http://www.amazon.com/Kurgo-Tru-Fit-Harness-Release-Buckles/dp/B00164ZWBG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1408625906&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+car+harness
You need this kind of harness. The leash attaches in the front of their chest and as soon as they pull they get turned around. My dog stopped pulling completely the first day. The only drawback is you have to watch the leash a bit more and keep them from stepping over it, but its well worth it.
3 years ago I got my husky, and suddenly theres husky puppies popping up all over the neighborhood. Please know what your getting into with a Husky. They need at least 1 hour of full mental and physical exercise each day... simply expecting them to be a house-dog is just cruel to this particular breed.
Me? I have him pull a 3 wheeled trike in winter, a bike in autumn/spring, walks in summer, all 45 minutes long. One hour dog-park visits on weekends. Daily combing, 30 minutes of toy play every day I get home from work. He's broke two of these (never buying them again) and we've resorted to having simple heavy duty industrial bungee cords and a heavy duty harness.
Even after 3 years I don't understand him. He doesn't care for fetch, or understand the point of tug-of-war, he just looks at you funny when you throw something. He's crazy smart (knows how to open kitchen drawers, twist the front door knob, and knows how to unlock the gate to get into the living room).
My dog was in a fire at 6 weeks old when his parents & 5 brothers/sisters died... and has had severe territorial aggression (disturbed while sleeping can result in a deep bite to your foot or arm) issues we've never been able to address (even with behavioralists and medication). He's a big fan routines though.. which is great because I suck at them so we help each other out.
All in all, a husky is a lot of work, it's a relationship built on respect rather than "I am the master, you are the pet." You get an amazing friend that is beyond just being a dog. Huskies are independent, have strong personalities, and can tell when your having a stressful day so they'll always be there for you when you need them.
Use a harness that attaches in the front. They are amazing.
http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Medium-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZD3QY/ref=zg_bs_2975341011_5
Both of my dogs can wiggle out of their harnesses if they're really determined! I got the Ruffwear webmaster harness because it has a third strap that goes around the tummy, so they can't back out of it.
I can say, I LOVE this harness. Neither of my pups has managed to get out of it yet, and they are Houdini-dogs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZD3QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UmQYBb6RFCGGD
That’s the link to it! Definitely a simple option and it works pretty well!
I am a volunteer dog walker/trainer at my local shelter and leash biting is common. She's worked up about something and doesn't have any other outlet for her energy. If she is doing it in the same place every time try walking a different direction. She may also be doing it when you turn around to go home in which case walking a loop rather than up and down the block would help. You can also bring a toy so she has something on her mouth instead of the leash when she starts to act out and a harness that the leash clips to the back of is helpful to keep the leash out of her eye line, I really love the Freedom Harness.
We use a Puppia harness and it works well. We do 2-3 hour hikes with our little guy and it doesn't irritate his skin or armpits. We don't however leave it on all day, when he's in the house he's naked, and if he's alone in the house he's got his collar with his id and rabies on. If we leave the harness on all day, then like other harnesses it rubs some fur off and we prefer that not to happen.
I hope you have luck with the trainers. In the mean time, I noticed you said your SO is afraid to take him out because of his size. I have a reactive 80+ lb German Shepherd and I'm about a 115 lbs. I understand. A couple of things:
Do you have a secure, front clip harness you can use to control your dog? If not, I would suggest investing in one. It feels a lot more secure vs just using a collar that your dog can slip out of.
I recently started using two leashes to walk my GSD. I have a short bungie leash, like this, which I keep clipped to my hips. You can use a heavy duty carabiner attached to a belt or fanny pack.
Then, I have a second flat leash which has an extra handle at the base of the leash, like this, so I can get a really good grip on my GSD and pull him away if I absolutely have to. I keep the flat leash looped around my wrist, then looped around my thumb like this, close my hand into a fist around the leash and hold it tightly to my stomach.
This has increased my confidence ten fold because I know my dog cannot pull away from me if he's attached my hips, and I can still easily control him using the second handle on the flat leash. The second handle on the flash leash is a blessing for tight areas like hallways or stair wells in the apartment complex (Avoid tugging on his leash if its not necessary, this can make them more anxious).
Other tips:
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Make sure you are playing with your dog inside the apartment as much as possible to reduce his stress, anxiety or tire him out. (Or take him the park and try to really tucker him out) Try to walk him at odd hours (like 5am, 12am) to reduce the chances you will run into things that scare him. This sucks, but it is very important that you avoid stressing him out as much as possible.
Practice your emergency exits. If you are in the hallway and see something scary, you can get away without your dog reacting and stressing out. Start in the apartment with his leash on, and practice saying "Lets go!" in a playful voice, do a u-turn, and playfully run the opposite direction. You might need to use your hands to get your dogs attention or use treats to lure him into a u-turn. You don't want to be tugging on your dog. You want your dog to think this is a fun and exciting game that is way better than facing and barking at whatever scary thing is at the end of the hall or sidewalk.
Instead of just feeding your dog cheese when he sees something scary, try turning it into a game of "Find it!". Again, start by practicing in your apartment, throw a treat a couple feet in front of you and tell your dog to "Find it!". You can start using this outside, when you don't see any distractions. Then, if your dog is far enough away to see a distraction but NOT REACT, you can try playing "Find it!" to distract them and reduce their stress. You can also use "Find it!" to get them to turn around, or throw treats at your feet so you can more easily get their attention.
Right now the goal is to avoid triggers as much as possible so if in doubt, do an emergency exit and try to get your dog out of the situation by doing a playful "Let's go!". You can play "Find it!" when you are far enough away. If your dog notices a trigger but is far enough away that he isn't reacting yet, try playing "Find it!" to distract your dog from the trigger. Always try to set him up for success, don't do it if you know he's gonna do bonkers.
Also, experiment with high value treats or rewards. Does he have a chew bone he really loves? Try bringing on the walk to distract him. Try really smelly, wet treats like hot dogs, liver or chicken.
Hopefully this will help until you maintain the situation until you can get some hands on training with a behaviorist.
I would strongly recommend grabbing something like the harness I have linked below. It still allows your pooch the mobility (albeit a tad more limited) but most importantly can help reduce the risk of injury in an accident.
These things aren't expensive if you shop around. I think these things should be in everyone's kit!
Sorry for shit formatting, on phone..
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MD3NOK/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1
I highly recommend Puppia. They're nice and wide across the chest, and a bit padded. Two rings on the back for the leash, so you can choose how much control they have. My dachshund weighs 16 pounds, and we use a small. Hope this helps!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N183G
You should look into an Easy-Walk Harness. The leash clips at the chest and it prevents the dog from pulling. They work really well, and without it (just using a collar), my Golden will pull me down the street- and I'm a big guy. He's very prey driven too (squirrels, chipmunks, etc.). It's like walking with a totally different dog when he's not wearing it.
Its your dog and you can do as you wish, but a lot of people (myself included) aren't big fans of those pronged/pinch collars. They are painful and if not used correctly, can cause harm.
In any case, I'n not here to start a controversy, he's a beautiful dog. Enjoy him!
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edit: clarity
In what way would selection bias apply? Honestly asking for clarification.
Eta: I wrote a novel. Just...a warning.
>Also, as a force free dog trainer with 12 years experience, what is your better suggestion? Do you have any methods, techniques, regimes, secrets and protocols to share?
I've had really good luck with a few things.
Firstly, having someone other than the standard walking person (so, usually me) switch in. This helps for a few reasons, it gives the owners a break so they can reduce their frustration level, it gives me a chance to assess the dog hands on and to start figuring out what methods I'll use, and it's a change in routine which gives you the opportunity to modify the rules when the dog is more receptive - she doesnt have a habit of pulling with me, so I'll have an easier time putting some base level work in than the owner will. (This is no shade on the owners at all, to be clear.)
Second step, with this dog I'd start in on the relaxation protocol at home. It really sounds like they've tried the "tired dog is a good dog" stuff, so sometimes you need to switch that up and teach the dog how to calm themselves. I've met a lot of really high energy drivey dogs who have absolutely no idea how to actually be calm. This works really well for them, and helps reduce the stress level while occupying their brain.
Third step would be the harness issue. It's not sustainable for anyone who walks a dog to come home sore and aching every time... especially since it's really likely the dog is feeling the same and its contributing to the issue. I'd try a better fitting harness, a rear clip type, or one with lots of places to clip in. (1, 2, 3)
Ok, into the real practical stuff. How would I personally address the pulling?
Ironically, I'd start by not going on walks for a few weeks. OP mentions the dog is stressed on walks, that anything other than pulling straight forward like a train causes the dog to show stress signs. So you need to start by reducing that stress. It takes TIME for those stress hormones to dissipate, and daily walks mean shes getting a fresh dose every time. Ideally the meds OP tried would have helped (Trying a different med would be another option - different meds work differently for each individual. One bad go doesnt mean it's not worth trying another!) but since they haven't...reduce the stress another way.
This doesnt mean you stop exercising the dog. Obviously that's not an option. But do it differently. Will the dog play fetch? Drive to a big feild outside of town and do that. Would the dog like agility? Take a fun class. Would the dog like swimming? Drive to a lake and try it out. Take the dog to a fenced area and play chase with them. If your dog likes dog parks and you're comfortable with the ones near you then do that. (I know dog parks are controversial basically everywhere, but they work well for some dogs. That's up to OP.)
If you have no options use a flirt pole in the backyard, for physical exercise.
But shake up what you're doing.
And then you address mental exercise, which is often overlooked (although it sounds like OP has probably tried some of this). Teach a new trick, ideally a silly one so it's fun bonding time rather than "super serious" training time. Use puzzle feeders, DIY ones if you're on a budget. Do a doggy scavenger hunt for toys or their dinner. Do a scent work class. Etc.
Take the focus away from leash walking entirely for a bit to give a reset. At least with the owner holding the leash.
Once you've got the dogs overall baseline of stress a bit lower you start from zero on leash walking.
By starting over in your basement with no leash. Just set the dog free in a big empty room (use what you've got - if that's your living room with furniture pushed back, whatever. Itll do.) Have treats, but dont direct the dog. Let them be distracted. Whenever pup comes near you use a marker (word or clicker, dealer's choice) and drop a treat. Then you move away.
Slowly amble around the room. No pattern, change directions. Whenever the dog moves to be near, mark and treat.
When the dog is obviously purposefully being near you start walking. Every step they take with you mark and reward. Stop before the dog is bored. Ideally, when they're still enjoying the game.
Do that for a week, use a toy to reward with tug or fetch if your dog will play. But keep it fun and light.
Then you do the usual, move through the steps of basic leash walking, still no leash though.
I'd also add in some silky leash practice, seperate from the leash walking practice. So she learns there is an option to pulling and that giving in to pressure, rather than leaning in (opposition reflex) is better.
So in all, itd be a big plan with lots of moving parts. I have had a lot of luck with dogs like this. Even if it's just a walking client who isnt interested in training, if I'm walking the dog 3-5 times a week (30 minute walks) I can usually see a serious improvement within a month.
Since I dont have any relationship with the dog initially I usually "cheat" and use hotdog, chicken, and "life rewards" like running, play, and the 300 peck method.
If the dog figures out that they can get to run a bit, or play chase, or tug if they walk nice for a few steps then I'm past the tough part. Sure, our first walks dont get very far, but since I use activity as part of the reward the dog is still getting exercise. I have not had much luck with the typical "stand still and wait them out" methods because of this - if I'm paid to walk the dog I'm not paid to stand still with the dog.
Lastly. And probably the bit people will roast me for. Some dogs hate standard walks. Whether that's because the dog find city noise stressful, is reactive to dogs or people, is anxious, etc. Some dogs just do better if you exercise them, mentally and physically, in other ways.
I've had a very small number of clients really see their dog blossom after cutting out normal walks.
Often these dogs do fine hiking, walking in nature outside of cities (where they're basically not going to meet other dogs or strangers), or just taking classes, running in fields, playing with flirt toys.
Its worth considering. If the point of "walking the dog" comes down to a benefit to the dog...but the dog isnt actually benefiting, then replacing the walk with other options can be the right answer.
This is the one I bought earlier this year. Walking my bulldozer has never been easier.
I have a very similar one, Kurgo is the brand. This is the exact one I have for my pitlab, about 40lb and he has a ton of room in the medium harness.
>How often should you stop
Consider their schedule already - try to maintain their bathroom/meal/exercise schedule while on the road. Dogs thrive on routine and in scary new situations like moving across country, it can be their 'rock' to get through the transition. You will likely need to stop 4 or 5 times for potty breaks, 2 or 3 times for meal breaks (try to find restaurants that allow dogs or parks for a picnic) and once or twice a day for some exercise (long walk after a picnic/meal, finding a local dog park to let them off leash, playing obedience games in the hotel, etc).
>Is there any way to find out the closest dog parks to the highway
When you are in the car and about ready for a break - get out your smart phone and do a local search for 'dog parks'. You should be able to find them fairly easy in all major cities you pass through (smaller towns are less likely to have areas like this). If you find yourself in the middle of no where and need a break - many places will have signs for states parks, nature areas or rest stops that you can take some long walks through. If possible - plan to stop at some of the bigger 'attractions'/parks and maybe spend an afternoon hiking. Your dogs will be much more tired for much longer with a nice little adventure (and it is good for the humans, too. Being stuck in a car driving across country is tough on everyone).
>Anything I should know/be prepared for before taking a 2,200 mile trip with the pups?
Hey! It's a Halti harness, and I have it paired with the leash.
I can't recommend it enough. It's super easy to put on and take off. Also, he gets excited when squirrels run by. I had a harness like this before, which he was easily able to pull with. With this harness, I can control him from the chest and back, which makes it really easy to keep him under control.
harness lead my shiba was constantly getting out of his harness before this one! I highly recommend it
My little dog pulls and this harness is amazing for controlling dogs that pull. I strongly recommend it.
Kurgo KU00025 Tru-fit Dog Harness, Large, for Dogs 50 to 80-Pound, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00164ZWBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZVBDDbFZ05F4M
I've got one like this. Basically it is a harness that attaches with a strap to the seat belt.
I've found I use it less rather than more. My dog is a wiggle worm and inevitably gets herself wrapped up in the strap and the seat belt. I'm going to try out one of the ones with a run next time.
Fair enough. It doesn't directly put pressure on the neck, but if your dog fights it at all, he could potentially put a strain on it.
I have a front-clip harness for my boxer - he walks nicely, but if he gets excited he can slip his collar. Dude has a tiny head to neck ratio. XD Anyway, he's also a huge baby and will only tolerate harnesses that have padding around the underside to keep from rubbing his delicate skin. My personal favorite is the Freedom No Pull harness - it has velvet lining around the underside to prevent chafing.
Have you seen the Freedom Harness? It has a front clip and a back clip, so you can use two leashes at once. It seems like it might let you guide him a bit better, since you have two ways to direct him.
I also came across this thing on the DINOS site a while back, which he might find helpful.
I have been very pleased with the Kurgo Harness I bought on Amazon. It's easily adjustable and clips in the front or the rear.
My dog uses a Kurgo and we've had good luck with that one, but I think it's really important to get a good fit. The sizing for some brands leaves a lot to be desired. (Like the small is too small and the medium is too large, even with adjustments.) I finally got a good fit when I took my dog to the pet store with me and asked a sales person if they would help me with the fitting. (It was a small locally owned store, so they were willing to open the packages and help me with the adjustments.) You might try other brands if Kurgo doesn't have the right size for your dog.
Here's Baxter in his Kurgo.
Edit: The Kurgo website has more sizes.
We have this harness for our puppy and it comes with a little seat belt attachment. It’s going to take your puppy some getting used to (our puppy whined for many of the first few times) but it will keep her from getting into trouble in the back.
The only harness I use for my pit is harness lead
I personally use it as a gentile leader now, but previously used it as a standard harness and it did greatly reduce pulling.
I use the Freedom No-Pull Harness, made by idk who, but it has dual clips--front and shoulders-with a two-pronged leash and you can decide how you want to clip on. On the chest and shoulder, if he/she pulls? Just on the chest w/ the leash extended to turn around to face you when excited or just on the shoulders to give a long lead? Multiple points of control. It also has like velvet on the under strap, which I feel doesn't chafe my girl's sensitive skin.
Also I live by the ocean, and the harnesses go on all through the beach time fun--lots of salt and saltwater, plus we're accidentally horrible at taking care of them (we take the off once they get into the car, and then forget to rinse them) tbh because they're on Amazon for like $30, no rust at all in the last... approximately 9mo. So, that's my vote.
Edit: here's the link: http://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZXZ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409293098&sr=8-1&keywords=freedom+no+pull+harness but there's different variations on what to buy, the two-pronged leash, no leash, colors, sizes, etc.
It's a double-ended leash on this harness! It was a total game changer - he went from pulling so hard that I could only take him for short walks because it hurt my shoulder too much to being a perfect gentleman on leash.
I don’t know how well this would work in a car, but my escape artist has never managed to escape out if this
I run with my dog (lab retriever), and she does well with a harness. Less pressure on her nose :) http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Harness-Medium-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZD3QY
If you want a back-clip harness, don't go with a sense-ible harness, since it's a front-clip much like the easy walk.
You might want to try the Freedom Harness. It's a no-pull harness but has D-ring on the back, so the leash wouldn't be in your dog's face.
PetSafe Easy Walk Harness
Alternately, you can try the Freedom Harness, which works better for some dogs.
I have the PetSafe 3in1 Harness and I really like it, but haven't taken it in the water. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S2XZRW
I really like Lupine collars - I have their Martingale one in peacock. They have nice basic leashes you can get to match, too - I like their padded handles. I also have a Ruffwear Roamer as an athletic leash that I use for biking or running with my dog - it's adjustable so that you can wear it around your waist or as a normal handle, and has some bungee and a traffic handle (though they have other leashes, too, without those features). I almost always put a harness on her when we leave the house - I have the Freedom one because it has both a front and back clip, but Lupine has some nice ones, too.
We've been using the Puppia vest harness for our chihuahuas and they've never been able to back out of it. It's nice and padded too so I feel good about having it on them for long walks/training sessions.
https://www.amazon.com/Puppia-Soft-Dog-Harness-Small/dp/B0013N183G
You're welcome, I"m in Canada, but we use one like this one, overall I'm very scared if anything happens to her, so made sure to get one, she loves it too.
Seconding the recommendation for an Easy Walk harness! Also, when you're walking, take a bunch of high-value treats with you. (Hotdogs, dried liver, anything smelly and awesome) As soon as you're approaching another dog, start treating her (as a distraction). She'll have to choose between jumping around in excitement or getting awesome treats from you.
At the dog park, when she's starting into behavior that you're not comfortable with, try saying "Ok!" in an upbeat, positive way. If she responds, reward her (and the other dog too, with permission of the owner, if they also respond). Her behavior isn't bad, so you don't want to punish her for getting into her play mode, but you do want to train her to take a break when you ask her to. Because "ok!" plus treats is a good thing, she'll start to see taking a break as a good thing, rather than "mom is dragging me away from fun, why should I listen?"
Buy a harness, a harness is less likely to rub any areas raw as long as it fits properly. Front clip one will help "turn" the dog so they won't pull as much. A Gentle Leader can also work wonders by turning the head, however if the dog lunges at birds/cars/dogs/cats/etc. I wouldn't recommend.
Get a plain leash, retractable leashes actually encourage the dog to pull (since the dog has gotten used to pulling to get farther out).
You can exercise the dog indoors and only go out for potty breaks if you don't want to buy stuff just for the weekend. Play games like fetch or mental games like scavenger hunts (find hidden treats), or put treats in old water bottles, DIY toys work wonders. If the dog doesn't know any tricks/fetch you can start teaching games like sit, down, shake, roll over, etc. All good mental games.
Edited to put Shearaha1's harness suggestion.
Dr. Yin's methods are great. As long as your dog is desensitized to the head collar you should be fine.
My prefrence for gear is a Freedom Harness http://www.amazon.com/Wiggles-Wags-Whiskers-Freedom-No-Pull/dp/B005I6LKLO I only use the front attachment unless the dog is highly reactive and putting them over threshold is unavoidable.
My wife and I have a small dog who runs with us more than pulls, but for what it is worth, we have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/pet-supplies/dp/B0013N183G
He's a beautiful boy. You should be proud.
I don't mean to tell you your business, so please take this advice or leave it as you prefer. Having a dog riding in your vehicle untethered, while fun, can make the unpleasantness of an accident even worse -- either by your beloved hound getting hurt more severely or by way of him becoming a 50+ pound projectile, injuring the people in the car.
I've been through a few car harnesses with my basset, and the Kurgo Tru-Fit is the best one I've found so far. The best feature is that you don't have to get your dog to stand still with his front legs stationary while you secure it. It just slips over his neck and then straps clip around his midsection. His previous one was a pain in the butt for that reason.
Puppia. Got it here.
Freedom Harness.
I actually just bought the Harness Lead for my girl Rosie. It works by the same principle as the others you've listed.
She is terrified of most harnesses for some reason but she actually seems to tolerate this one fairly well.
It works well to stop her pulling but she also is more sensitive in generally about having things on her body. So far though I like it!
I used the Freedom No-Pull for my setter (60 lbs and skinny). Has velvet to avoid chafing. Attaching at the chest diverts some pulling energy.
Tried a flexy, because he likes to move around, but he could rip it out of my hand if i wasn't careful. Currently use a rope with clip (gloves required).
https://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZY7K
You could try the harness lead. It helps with pulling and is one piece that wraps around the dog. It tightens across the dogs chest when it pulls in any direction, so it won't choke your dog, just make him uncomfortable enough to stop. It's virtually escape proof. The only thing I don't like about it is the fact that it is only One piece so you can't detach the dog from the leash. That being said though, for a hard to fit dog and to feel secure on walks, it's worth it.
Harness Lead Escape Proof, Reduces Pull Dog Harness, Medium/Large, Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009P4K2V4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NrA1xb87GJ8GW
There’s a harness called an “Easywalk” that attaches on the chest. When you pull back on the leash it causes the pupper to sit back and sometimes sit down
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0009ZD3QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_VO7IDb4M517P9
I don't have any experience with it, but I wonder if a Harness Lead might be worth a try. It seems like the lack of a clip might be handy for gradually acclimating her to wearing it tighter.
Walking with the leash attached to the collar can be harmful. This is an interesting article with a lot of information that explains the potential issue that can arise from using a collar. A dog can receive neck injuries, ear and eye issues, hypothyroidism, malfunctioning in the forelimbs' nervous system, and behavioral problems. It concludes by urging dog owners to buy a harness.
Also note, many think that harnesses make dogs pull more, but this isn't true. The harnesses with an attachment point in the back are what do this because it gives the dog more leverage. If the only times your dog is pulling is when she panics, then using a back attachment point is viable, but you want sturdy harness with a grip then.
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If you are interested in some alternatives (based on the information you've given), here are some I'd recommend:
Simple No-Pull Harness - I used one like this at one point. This one is really lightweight and non-obstructive. If you need a harness that doesn't restrict movement at all, this is the one. The attachment point in front is what makes it so the dog doesn't pull.
Gentle Leader - This isn't a harness, and it certainly isn't a muzzle, and it works well. I used to have a Boxer, and I used this for him. It stopped him from pulling, and if he did pull it just brought his attention back to me. Overall, it is useful and performs quite well.
RUFFWEAR Front Range - I use this one now and it is great. This one is fairly simple, it can get dirty if you go through a lot of water, mud, or the like, but mainly performs well. It has attachment points on the front and back, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a neat little pocket where you can attach ID tags. Plus it has a good amount of padding that makes it comfortable.
RUFFWEAR Web Master - This is one I have also used and it has done a lot for me, so I may be biased, but is a wonderful harness. I mainly use it for hiking only because there are too many noises in the neighborhood that could spook him (thats's where a front attachment comes in handy) My boy, Odin, doesn't pull much when we hike, so I can get away with the no front attachment point. It has three straps instead of just two, reflective trim, can be hand washed, and has a really sturdy handle, but it doesn't have the little ID pocket like the Front Range (not a big deal though). The handle is what is unique for this, you can use it to lift your dog (especially when hiking) or just hold them still. I also have a nervous dog, and sometimes if he gets spooked I will use this to hold on to him and calm him down.
​
Honestly, my favorite brand is RUFFWEAR because of their harnesses and all the other gear and toys they have, but Gentle Leaders and that Simple No-Pull are both good options instead of a collar.
We use the Puppia mesh harness. The pups seem to like it. It slips over the head.
Puppia Soft Dog Harness, Red, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N183G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_88Slub0RSSG8C
They have a size chart on the puppia website but I ordered from Amazon.
This is what we use for our two bassets and we like them. https://www.amazon.com/Puppia-Soft-Dog-Harness-Small/dp/B0013N183G
I have this one for my hound who has very short hair, but a double coat. So far it has slightly worn her fur across the front of one leg, but she wears it daily. No bleeding and no other chaffing.
I know other people like the easy walker or some other ones.
Similar to this. The loop goes across the chest.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Medium-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZD3QY
Why thank you.
It's just one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Puppia-Soft-Dog-Harness-Small/dp/B0013N183G/
But I don't recommend it. It's pretty flimsy and is already falling apart after just a few months. I only use for riding in the car and just until Sleepypod (hopefully) comes out with one big enough for her:
http://sleepypod.com/clickit
Gentle Leader Head Collar
OR
Freedom Harness
Would be my top two choices.
We bought one from Amazon that has worked well for us. He's fully grown, so I'm not sure how it would translate for a pupper. It has multiple adjustable straps which help it fitting properly. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164SZMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2jTUAb7QTEAAK). We also ordered a handsfree leash with multiple hand holds that I found helpful in teaching him not to pull, and it's great for hikes. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7ND6E4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) Hope it helps!
Bucky is a harness escape artist and his build sounds like your dog. I use the pet safe 3 in 1 harness (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S2XZRW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kqv4Db6V4N8NJ) and he can still slip from it but it takes him longer so I can stop him.
I also stay behind him because he can only slip it by backing up when I'm in front of him.
Not the OP.
We went with this one https://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZXZ8
It has the option of hooking in front or back or both. Front has worked best for us.
Edit; Does not help with reactive pulling but helps with general loose leash walking.
Here you go. Freedom No-Pull Dog Harness Training Package, Large, Blacklink
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009ZD3QY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1462830536&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=front+pull+dog+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BRtI0hWsL&ref=plSrch
I use this one with my beagle who is a puller and she does great, doesn't pull at all with it on. Good luck!
I use a harness that has both a clip at the front and at the back and a leash that can connect to both. He's a horrible puller, but on this harness, he's not nearly as bad, only in pet stores and around a lot of other people which is much easier to deal with in comparison to when I first got him in May. He's a 60 lbs pit/lab mix. The one I got is this one. It's easier to put on and it steers him toward the center when he tries to pull.
I bought a kurgo harness from Amazon a few months ago and I've been very happy with it. My dog is also medium sized and a little skinny. The collar area for the harness stays a just a tad bit loose but it's not so loose that it will come off.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00164SZMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499454451&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kurgo+dog+harness&psc=1
I think it works perfect for my dog and it comes with a thing to hook to your car seatbelt when you take your dog in the car. Just measure your dog to get the size right.
I second this! I use this in combination with this harness for my very strong 73 lb lab. He has been using it for a year and a half and has never broken out of the leash, not even once. Not even during one of those zoomies (FRAPS).
This is the one I use.
I use the freedom harness, it has velvet on the straps under the arms so it doesn't irritate my Mishka's chest/armpits. It doesn't have the martingale feature, but it does have the option of being front attaching or back attaching.
http://amzn.com/B005OPZXZ8
We have the kurgo harnesses for both dogs (small and medium). They have rings for front and back leash attachment and there is plenty of sliders to adjust it perfectly. Favorite harness we've tried so far!
Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart Dog Harness, Black, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164SZMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r-XDybWGTNBNQ
Welcome back! On my prime day list I have this dog harness that you can also use in the car https://www.amazon.com.mx/dp/B00164SZMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3AilDb6JS6ZM1
Actually...
Sure. The harness is the [Ruffwear Web Master] (http://www.amazon.com/Web-Master-Harness-Medium-Currant/dp/B005OTY7A6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411757936&sr=8-1&keywords=ruffwear+webmaster+harness). Those things run kinda big. Doogie here wears a small and he's a medium in almost everything else.
Then we went to the hardware store and bought a small, thin, flexible piece of aluminium. Using a pear of tin snips, we cut it to fit the space between the handle on the harness and the hole where the dogs' head goes.
Drilled several very small holes around the edges of the cut piece of aluminium. Filed the holes and the edges of the aluminium so nothing would tear the fabric.
Parachute grade nylon thread. Sewed the aluminium sheet to the harness. The mount we stuck to the aluminum is the curved mount that came with the GoPro. They use this ridiculous 3M super tape on those things, and I haven't even noticed it starting to budge yet. I would check it regularly after outings though, if it starts to fail I'd rather I see it than just lose my GoPro. That dog gets himself good and far up the trail from us.
If you pause in the beginning of the video (0:18), you can get a close up of the whole setup. It was really easy. At the time, Go Pro hadn't released their own dog harness mount, so we just built one out of his existing harness.
edit: some words
There are basically two types of harness styles I've found: strapy ones (like this) and more vest-y ones (like this]. My dog hates the strapy ones, and will scratch/itch at it and try to pull it off, so if your dog is really not a fan of their harness, try the other type - it could help.
I use the Canine Equipment no-pull harness, and it puts pressure on her shoulder area as opposed to her neck when she pulls. Its been a really great harness for her, and is similar enough to the vest-y type that it doesn't bother her.
See this post about restraining devices. The OPs situation was slightly different than yours but the information/discussion on the restraint systems is the same. Devices that have been tested and passed to earn a safety-certification to withstand the G-forces of a crash at 30mph range from $90 to Very Expensive.
If you're looking for something to specifically restrain the dog from a police officer standing next to the driver's side window, rather than to prevent the dog from becoming a projectile in the car, you may look at the Kurgo Tru-Fit Safety Harness. Note that while both the regular ($15) and "enhanced" model ($30) of this harness catastrophically failed safety testing as seen in this video the "enhanced" model has all metal hardware and would more reliably restrain a large muscular dog from the officer.
If I were in your situation and assuming you already have a harness, I would simply purchase this $25 Kurgo swivel tether for seatbelts and affix it to whatever harness you already have. None of these options will protect either you or the dog in a crash! but will accomplish your stated goal. Consider getting the Sleepypod Clickit harness despite its expense ($90) as it is the only harness system tested that passed the safety testing done by the Center for Pet Safety.
I suppose a crate, cage, or other barrier system could work but the only models that are effective at 30mph testing are >$400 which is why I always recommend a harness (and training).
Get one of these for your backseat and let the dog have the back seat. It's fantastic. It comes with a couple leashes where one end is a seatbelt clip. He can't fall into the floor this way and has padding across the whole backseat. Plus it's waterproof. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CMZ11TX
Also get him a harness (chest-attach area) like this and seatbelt him in, either with the above or with this one's carabiner. Helps give him an anchor and keeps him safer. Keeps him away from you a bit better too, distracting you is the #1 safety factor.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00164ZWBG or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064ACNLO
I use a Halti connected to a front clip harness, no collar. Below are the ones I have but I'm sure there are cheaper options. I tried a choke collar once because my husband pressured me and it was horrible.
If he's pulling, stop where you are and only continue once he lets the leash go loose. It takes a lot of patience but he'll learn that pulling means he doesn't get to go anywhere. With the halti/ gentle leader, he won't be able to pull very hard anyway.
​
https://www.amazon.com/Company-Animals-Collar-Adjustable-Training/dp/B00EQ3423I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=halti&qid=1564860920&s=gateway&sr=8-3
​
https://www.amazon.com/Hounds-Design-Adjustable-Comfortable-Separately/dp/B0085XOVLS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2+hounds+freedom&qid=1564860936&s=gateway&sr=8-3
We use the Solvit harness when we got our dark brindle. I realized that 60lbs of "roaching fury" that isn't buckled down in a vehicle can potentially kill us all if we suddenly stop from a vicious car accident.
She wears a harness, and we attach the harness to the seat belt itself. She eventually lays down, but it will definitely be a mandatory accessory on any car rides.
Doggy seatbelt.
I use this I started training my dog how to walk on a leash when he was 3. Every time he would pull I would stop. It took a while but worked.
Does your dog heel when you walk normally? Use the halti (or get a Gentle Leader collar, better IMO) and use your normal leash correction and the 'heel' command to get the dog into place. Obviously a lab will take a little longer to learn, but they'll pick up what you're putting down.
Definately get a mesh harness. Be wary of front clip harnesses that aren't mesh. We tried a front clip Wonder Walker and the leash would ride up and press on our pup's throat. Even fitted, we could hear choking.
There are different kinds of mesh harnesses. I find that ones through the head are okay if your pup has a small head and comfortable with shit going over his head. If not, I recommend either a mesh step in or a neck adjustable one.
For a growing puppy, the last one would last you the longest because the neck and belly can adjust independently. For durability, we like the 2nd one.
We've tried a Gooby harness and while it was good at first, it wasn't nearly as durable as the Puppia ones or safe. My pup's front legs could slip through the 'x' design. It was really weird. The strap is pretty thin leathery fabric that my 10lb pup chewed in one go. He has yet to chew through the puppia ones.
If you want a chew proof guaranteed one, you'll have to go with Lupine. All their harnesses are guaranteed even if chewed. It's awesome. I have a few, but they aren't as comfortable as the mesh ones.
I use the petsafe easy walk harness with mine. It's been solid for over 2 years now. She's 40lbs and wears a medium.
I use something like the Freedom harness of my aussie. I don't use the second leash option, and just keep it clipped to the front but I think the extra piece between the legs helps to actually keep the harness in position. I find that the easy walk can shift a lot or hangs low unless it fits perfectly which is hard to do.
http://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Training-Package/dp/B005OPZY7K
Don't rely on training, a guy in my jeep clubs dog was riding without a proper harness for YEARS, and just recently decided to hop out on the highway... over $4,000 in vet bills. I use THIS harness and it's tied off to my soundbar so he can move around a bit in the back but can't jump out.
Awesome!! I use this harness PetSafe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S2XZRW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share & clip leash to the chest loop. This helps guide my husky when they try to pull. I’ve tried the easy walk harness but I feel like that harness was really tight on their shoulder blades. This harness leaves a lot of space for her front legs to maneuver freely. You might have to try a few pending your husky’s frame.
These leashes have been great and good price BAAPET 2 Packs 5 FT Strong Dog... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R2JNDDV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Easy walk harness, specifically the one where it connects at the front - https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Medium-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZD3QY - Amazon could probably have it to you tomorrow :) I use the medium/large on my 80 pounder.
there are other options My dog didn't mind her's first try, they make some with gel padding in the front for comfort, I'm at work so i can't get the info on mine.
Thanks for the suggestion on front-clip harnesses! I ordered this one for him: Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart Dog Harness - Amazon.com. It has great ratings and seemed useful for a puller like a malamute.
Agree with notochord that you should retrain her to walk with you using your new equipment.
If you want to try a harness, make sure it's one where the leash attaches in front of the dog's chest, not on her back. If the leash attaches on her back then it will let her pull even more, like a sled dog. If the leash attaches on her chest, it removes some of her pulling power and lets you steer her easily.
Freedom Harness and Sense-ible Harness are both good, if you want to go the harness route.
The Harness:
Freedom No-Pull Dog Harness Training Package with Leash, Teal Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7EXSA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qMUpzb3JFZM49
The Leash:
PetsAlly Hands-Free Waist Dog Leash with Bag Dispenser and Training eBook, Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI7PP7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_UCD8kJk2BXPTR
I had a dog like this, none of the training methods would work. We ended up just buying the EasyWalk harness.
The harness makes it so that if he pulls you can easily flip him around and make him stop. Eventually my dog got used to it and would walk normally, although I still liked to use it because if he saw a rabbit or one time a deer, it's much easier to control him with the harness.
I use an easy walker harness on my pup (https://www.amazon.ca/PetSafe-Harness-Medium-Black-Silver/dp/B0009ZD3QY) and it clips on the leash in the front. I found with my pup that harnesses which have the leash ring on the back were actually making his pulling worse.
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Medium-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZD3QY I've used this for my beagle mix for the past 5 years. They last about 4 years, reduce pulling to almost zero and can be fitted that it just slides over their head and gets buckled behind their arm pits.
There are various types of harnesses just like this that had padding for the pits and belly to avoid rubbing.
I love and highly recommend the Freedom Harness for a front clip. It stays much more clear of the shoulder than most other front clips, fits better (has more straps to adjust), and has a clip on the back as well if you ever want to let him run around, like on a hike.
Yea I found this:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZD3QY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2YAKNEWALNNSD&coliid=I1BYZM1FZH376B&psc=1
What kind of treats do you recommend for training?
Your right the amount of strength she has, she doesnt care about injury at all, its like a small bodybuilder on speed when walking her.
That's pretty weird. Are you sure it was a name brand (premier or petsafe) and not a cheap knockoff? That's not my favorite equipment, but they usually hold up okay.
Try a Freedom Harness (measure so you'll get the right size). They're usually sturdy and hold up well.
I would definitely echo what the others have said. Negative reinforcement training is too high risk.
Here are some of the positive reinforcement tips I've been taught :
The first thing I would suggest trying is walking with some super smelly treats in your hand, and presenting them to your dog when you start the walk to let them know your hand is where their focus should be.
If other dogs are still causing too much of a distraction the only thing I've found to work is to either stop the walk and try and have your dog stay by your side until he realizes he's not going to get anywhere by barking, praising him the second that he stops barking and pulling.
Another method is to turn and walk further from the other dog whenever he is barking, showing him he's getting further from what he wants by behaving that way. But this could be hard to do if he's pulling hard.
A personal suggestion would be this cool harness I've just started using that let's you pull from the front and back without putting as much strain on the dog as other styles (2 Hounds Design Freedom No-Pull No Leash Harness Only, 1-Inch, Large, Black https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085XOVLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VTaBDbDH9JW37)
I can't find any subreddit rules about linking to other sites so I'll go ahead and show you this one.
I have that one in small, it's too big for my kittens but I think small or medium should fit a grown cat, depending on how big it is. I've seen some others use this same one as well. Fair warning though, if you buy the lead also in 'small' size, it's very short. :)
These work pretty well for dogs who like to slip out of their leads/collars/harness. If they're a hyper aggressive puller with no regard for discomfort I wouldn't suggest it, but that's really a training issue not an issue with your gear. I was a foster dog Mom for nearly ten years and had to introduce many dogs to leads and a lot of them strongly dislike it and slip out when backing up or rolling but this works pretty well.
The most important thing is not to ever give in, walks are not for meeting other dogs. If you let him meet other dogs one time out of every ten, then he will keep trying because there is always a chance. He needs to know that there is no chance of meeting the other dog.
If you are not using a harness, I suggest switching to a harness like a PetSafe 3-in-1 or similar design.
Excitement reactivity is common, the best way to address it is the same way you would address any other kind of reactivity.
Is he clicker trained? If not, that is the first step. This video and this other video will provide a basic introduction
For the reactivity, this video from Kikipup may help. She is a great positive reinforcement trainer who puts out a lot of free videos on many aspects of dog training.
Basically it is a lot of treats, every time the dog sees a stimulus (in your case another dog) click and treat. The key is (and this is the hard part) to click/treat before the dog reacts. As the person moves closer and the dog sees them, click/treat, keep doing it until he reacts. After he reacts, have her come back to you either with SIT or LOOK/WATCH (people use both words), when he does it click/treat. If you need help with these, Kikopup has videos and seeing the training will make a lot morse sense than reading my text instructions.
The second part of the training is to teach him that we don't meet people on walks, again this is hard because he is excited, friendly, and wants to meet people. If he knows that on a walk he never gets to meet people, he will want to do it less, so even if he is doing well, don't let him meet the people because that will set back this aspect of the training.
This will take time, so even when it gets frustrating stay consistent.
I really recommend one of these http://www.amazon.com/Freedom-No-Pull-Harness-Medium-Black/dp/B0085XOHDU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376078078&sr=8-2&keywords=freedom+harness
I use them on my german shepherds.
http://www.amazon.com/Solvit-62296-Vehicle-Safety-Harness/dp/B000MD3NOK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376311936&sr=8-2&keywords=dog+seatbelt
This should be a law.
Thanks! He's wearing a PetSafe Easy Walk Harness (the green one)..these things are amazing and I highly recommend them. They attach at the chest so you can control their movments easier and it prevents your pup from pulling while you walk them. He's also wearing a RuffWear Track Jacket because we were going on a hike in the woods later that day.
We used a halti collar when training our shepherds to run next to the bikes just for some added security that they weren't going to dive in front of it and cause an accident. Front clipping harnesses are also really good for this sort of thing, especially if your dog is already known to pull on walks. Young dogs especially seem to struggle with spacial awareness and like to tangle you up in the leash so be mindful of that. To make it easier for the dog I think it's best to train them to run on only one side. I picked left since they're already trained to heel on the left side.
The most important thing, and I cannot stress this enough, is not to let the dog's nose get ahead of you by more than about two feet. If the dog is not watching you, there's no way they can see you start to turn or stop and most likely they aren't paying enough attention to hear voice commands either. For turns I use verbal and hand signals so the dog is clear on where I'm going, plus you never know when a passing car might drown out a verbal command. I use "halt" to signal sudden stops because it's rarely heard in normal conversation.
I know it's appealing to let your dog pull you along, but it's very dangerous if your dog isn't 100% attentive to verbal commands outdoors. They can pull both of you into traffic or over obstacles that aren't traversable with skates and that is something I'm not willing to risk personally. If you are always beside your dog and therefor always within their sight, it's a lot easier for them to focus on you.
https://www.amazon.com/SENSE-ation-No-Pull-Dog-Harness-Medium/dp/B0013K0H4K
Highly recommend this harness, also as much as this is going to suck leash your pup to you during the day. He/she will get used to it
This is the keyhole style, like a pupia:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GUQMM3G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1472696622&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dog+harness&dpPl=1&dpID=61HYII8Dj-L&ref=plSrch
Here's the other style (not recommended)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JUGNR96/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1472696622&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dog+harness
We have two rescues. Toby, our staffy/Shepard mix who we adopted at 8 weeks, and he's now two. He moved twice with us within the first two months of having him. (we had to be out of our place a week before our new place was available, so we stayed with a friend...woo college towns). This past December we adopted a berry shy, very scared 11 month old boxer/Shepard mix, and she had been coming around very well. In the next few weeks we are moving about 2000 miles.
In the car with us we will be bringing their beds (for them to sleep on, if they choose to, at our hotel stops). Also a blanket, and some of their favorite toys, so they have the scents and comforts of home, and they will be with my fiance and I at all times.
If you're taking you pup on a long distance move, check out this website for dog parks, and other dog friendly places, to stop and play at. I also just bought my dogs some "seatbelts" to keep them safe should something happen on the journey.
If you are keeping the dog in mind, and keeping their needs in your priority list, I think you'll be just fine moving with a pup.
Good luck!
I use one very similar to this one. You really have to tighten up the strap if you want to keep the dog from flying forward though. Instead of using the seatbelt as an anchor, I use the LATCH hook that's up on the C-beam of the car. Unfortunately, that's pretty high up and it won't let her lie down. On longer trips I need to give her a little more slack and go back down to the seatbelt.
The belt serves three purposes as I see it: in some crashes, dogs escape and run away. The belt prevents that. It also keeps the dog from crashing around the car in case of an accident and getting hurt. It also stops the dog from becoming a missile and taking off your head in a high speed crash.
I have a 9 month old Golden Retriever myself. And he was/still is a bit of a puller also.
What type of harness do you use?
I purchased the Freedom Harness about a month ago to try and address the issue.
And it has been working pretty well. I think its important to have the dual attachment lease (at chest and back) to help turn the entire body back to you. He's since seemed to learn that he needs to walk slower. And when he does pull, he acknowledges the correction.
Beyond that, I dont have much in the way of advice.
Hey there,
So to echo what other commenters have said on here, I don't think the harness will really be helpful if the main goal is to teach your puppy to not be nippy. I second the whole "redirect their behavior" comment as well as the typical scolding (bad dog, no) but make sure that you have a stern voice and your tone is different than how you would normally talk to your puppy or praise it so that they know that when you're speaking this way you mean business. However, if you would still like to try having a harness for your puppy, this one on Amazon is one that I recommend. It's not super expensive either so if you continue to use a harness as your puppy gets bigger and it eventually out grows it, you'll be able to get it another one at an affordable price.
Amazon.com. Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTY7A6/
I got this harness in medium for our now 4 month old lab with the understanding that it will need to be replaced when he grows out of it. I know a few people with dogs that could maybe use it when he is too big for it, or I will donate it.
Here is Tuba sporting the harness
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N183G?keywords=puppia%20harness&qid=1453533548&ref_=sr_1_1_m&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-1
We've used this harness since our pup was a baby: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OPZXZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1420233767&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
The part that goes under their front legs is made from velvet so there is minimal irritation if there is rubbing.
Also, it comes with a two lead leash so you can clip one of them to their collar and the other to either the front or back of the harness.
We've spent a lot on our Samoyed thus far, but the best ~$40 we spent was on the PetSafe Easy Walk Dog Harness.
Samoyeds are born to pull sleds and work, so we struggled with our puppy pulling a lot when we walked. After 5 months of pulling using a normal collar on walks, we tried out the Easy Walk harness and the pulling stopped instantaneously. For my wife who was having a bit of a hard time controlling the puppy as she got bigger, it's been a life saver. Overall, it's a lot nicer to walk when the dog isn't pulling.
With that said, the harness alone doesn't stop bad pulling behavior, it just makes it uncomfortable for them to do so. To actually fix the behavior will require training, but in the meantime, walks are much more enjoyable when the dog walks next to you.