Best dog slow feeders according to redditors

Have you tried a slow-feed bowl? I have two rescue dogs, littermates, abandoned at very young age and lucky to be alive. However when they were in the rescue centre they had to fight to eat and drink against other, bigger dogs so continued this behaviour after I took them in. Slow-feed bowls got them to slow down and eat/drink at a better pace and help reduce the amount of air the dog intakes when swallowing, meaning less burping. Something like this is what I mean: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JasGood-Eco-friendly-Durable-Non-Toxic-Preventing/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0A7T83D1NQB5VVKQS511

Something like this: Fun Feeder Slow Feed Non-Slip Dog Bowl Stop Bloat Pet Bowl Drink Water Bowl Square Base Sky Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTSLGG3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.9EUBbTC4AM80

Getting her to leave things you don't want hear near or don't want her eating: teach her "leave it:"

• Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them.
  
• Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back.
  
• Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff.
  
• Say “leave it” when he finishes sniffing your fist. Make sure to say it only once.
  
• As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand.
  
• Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.”
  
• When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach.
  
• Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times.
  
  The key with this is to work up to items/food that your dog will consider "high-reward," but you need to start with baby steps.
  
  >Openly begs for food and will not leave your side if you have some
  
  Literally force her out of the room. You might have to do it a hundred times, but eventually she will get the message. Do this for every single meal, any time you have food.
  
  >Gorges herself
  
  I don't understand how she's allowed to gorge herself? Keep her food in a place she cannot get to it by herself. If you mean that she's eating too fast, consider buying her one of these bowls. It will force her to eat slower.
  
  >Cannot go to the bathroom outside by herself
  
  You need to go outside with her on a leash every 3-4 hours. If you notice she's still having accidents, you need to go out with her more frequently. Tell her the command "do business" or "go potty" or whatever you'd like to name the command when she finally goes potty outside. Treat her and make it very exciting when she goes potty outside--this gives her a positive experience for going potty outside. Don't punish her for having accidents unless she is specifically marking (peeing only a little bit and not the full amount).
  
  >Tears apart the garbage
  
  Why is she allowed to get into the garbage can?
  
  > 9/10 times, she will not come if called
  
  You need to teach recall with her.
  

Yep, my dog would do the inhale-barf-repeat cycle with a regular bowl. Got one of these slow feeder bowls, and it's made a night and day difference - not only does she eat slower, but her overall digestion is actually doing better.

Stop feeding her out of a bowl.

Try feeding her out of a kong wobbler, IQ ball or similar toy that will FORCE her to slow down. You can also try hand feeding her to help reduce anxiety and keep her eating at a slower pace. They also make special 'bowls' that are meant to help your pup slow down, but I would encourage using a puzzle over these (or at least use them WITH a puzzle toy, 1/3 of the food from this special bow, 1/3 from a puzzle, 1/3 through training/from your hand)

If she is vomiting up her food, she is probably not absorbing all the nutrients she should be.


You can try feeding both dogs together out of your hands (ask for a sit, feed them both some kibble, as for a down, feed them some kibble - you can even make it a game where they compete to be the first one in order to win a kibble prize).

Adding a digestive aid can also help with nutrient absorption which can ultimately help with healthy weight gain. You may also want to consider the quality of the food you are feeding.

She may also need to be fed a little more if you manage to slow her down and she still isn't gaining weight. If she is still throwing up even after you slow her down significantly, you may want to consider an intolerance to an ingredient in the food or see your vet to rule out any health issue.

You could always just buy this to help the dog slow down when eating.

Adding to the snuffle mat suggestions - you can get all sorts of puzzles feeders too. Or for wet food use a Kong - freeze it for extra difficulty!

We use these:

GREEN Interactive Feeder, Large https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B009CKHXYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ih.YCb8E5RS2S

Nina Ottosson Dog Tornado Treat Puzzle Dog Toy by Outward Hound https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07239T47Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ih.YCbFX6XDKA

The second looks harder but the first actually takes him long and is easier for us to set up! But we try to use both to change things up.

I am considering getting a petite doggy slow feeder for my little guy. He swallows his kibble whole and gulps down his wet food within seconds. Sigh.

This one is made by Northmate and is called the "Interactive Slow Pet Feeder" -- dinner time went from less than a minute to about 15 minutes.

http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-101027-Interactive-Feeder/dp/B009CKHXYU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398011373&sr=8-1&keywords=northmate

Have you tried a slow feeder bowl? It really helped slow down my rescue dog who would inhale her kibble when I first got her. I bought this one but there are lots of choices: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XJY363T/

Same here, I had to look it up to get some relief.

My cat started puking after years of having him, took him to the vet and there was nothing wrong with him at all. The vet suggested one of those slow feeding bowls because he might be eating too fast.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HVS95GR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M3DJDb9J3ZG4V

It worked like a charm!

As for the peeing do you have one litter box or two? If you have one get a second and soak ALL your clothes in an enzyme remover.

I'm not a cat owner, but have had experience with a chonker foster dog. This mat helped her eat wet food much slower and I have a friend who found it useful for her cat. It can make mealtimes last quite a while and it's not the nicest of clean ups, but it does go in the dishwasher!

Some notes/suggestions:

• Dog Food Advisor for reviews of food brands.
  
• I personally found this book to be pretty helpful.
  
• Food bowl recommendation: slow feed bowl like this. Pugs love food. LOVE IT. Can't get enough. Will eat as if they are starving and will never get a meal ever again. That means they make a mess and that they can eat too fast which can cause them to vomit. This sad post from a couple of weeks ago is also a warning about pugs eating too fast.
  
• The great thing about pugs being so food motivated is that training is really easy. Low cal snacks, like green beans, peas or carrots are good things to use as treats/rewards. They will pick up commands pretty quickly when they understand they will get a yummy snack as a reward!
  
• Fold cleaning: I use unscented baby wipes. Clean the fold out regularly. I use those for the visible part of the ear, too. To get in the canal, flush with a saline solution. Play with ears, legs, feet regularly, so she is used to you doing it and won't be as fussy when you need to do routine cleaning/clipping.
  
  One general suggestion: don't use negative reinforcement for training or when she does something wrong. Puppies are babies, so they don't understand why they did something wrong. She will pee and poop in the house. She will bite you with those razor sharp puppy teeth. She will chew on things that she shouldn't chew on. These are inevitable and can get frustrating, but I recommend redirection and positive reinforcement.
  
  That's all I can think of for now. If I have any other suggestions, I'll edit.
  Also, there's a minimum tax of one puggy picture for advice, so be sure to post when she arrives! :)
  

Just search slow feed bowl and there are quite a few options!

Edit: they’re like this

AOLOVE Slow Feeder Bowl Healthy Food Fun Anti-Choke Pet Bowls for Dog (One Size, Pink) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJY363T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3hiZDbP4AD3WB

The stuff in the way forces them to slow down because they can’t get a huge mouthful at once.

I think Kongs are a good start.

I think with young puppies though, depending on their food drive and motivations, they may or may not take to puzzle toys early, so don't feel badly if it's too much for them.

We actually didn't start our dog on puzzle feeders for any "intelligence" benefit - she had super high food drive and kept eating quickly without chewing, vomiting out her meal, then eating her vomit, so we bought a slow feeder bowl which was perfect for her at 4 months old. We fed her out of frozen-solid Kongs in the morning starting when she was 5 months old to help curb her separation anxiety, and then eventually bought a Busy Buddy Kibble Nibble. Even on the easiest settings, she struggled quite a bit as a puppy so we cut down the stoppers to make the flow easier. When she got better at the game, we re-bought the toy and made it substantially more difficult.

My younger dog, a Samoyed, actually doesn't eat out of toys. He has a lesser food drive and while he'll occasionally eat out of a toy, he prefers to just eat his food and work for better snacks (i.e. training for high value treats), so figuring out what your future dog's preferences are is definitely going to be something you'll have to do as your dog grows up. This dog did not eat out of Kongs until he was about 6 months old, either. He's just as smart, just not as insanely food driven as my first dog!

I love Kong brand. Kong has toys that are really tough to chew through, not to mention the original Kong you can stuff treats into is pretty much indestructible. My puppy had an abscessed tooth and she couldn't chew anything for a few weeks so Kongs saved our sanity, not to mention this licky mat. You can smear peanut butter on it, soft dog food, spray cheese etc. It was a lifesaver. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJWCJST/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_j7WWDbZV9ASNZ

We got the Amazon basics crate and it works well. We also got an Amazon basics play pen that has worked wonders https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0758CTVVR/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_j3WWDbSB2W7AJ

I don't have a brand name, but make sure you get dog beds where the cover zips off for easy cleaning. I did not do that, and it has been interesting trying to potty train with a bed you can't easily clean.

I got a pack of bully sticks on Amazon recently that have been wonderful. Bully sticks are a lifesaver when you just need your pup to sit down and stop bugging you for 15 mins so you can fold a load of laundry. Bully sticks are very expressive so these were a good deal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M93Q3CP/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_B-WWDb43SZH8P

I also recommend a martingale collar. My puppy was terrified of going outside when we first got her so she would pull out of her collar and run away. If was stressful. Martingale collars tighten as the dog pulls so they can't pull out of them

I hesitate to recommend a camera, because after the second week of using it, it was really more trouble than it was worth. Yeah, you can check on your puppy while you're at work, but if he's crying or whining you can't do anything about it but feel upset.. If you're interested, we used Wyze cams. You can get them on Amazon, they are super cheap and easy to use. I just recommend using them for the first few weeks only, otherwise your work will suffer like mine did.


Edit: I almost forgot to mention Nature's Miracle, the patron saint of carpet and floors! It eliminates the enzymes in urine so your dog doesn't keep peeing in a particular place in your house because it smells like pee. Buy stock in this company. It is that important.

Good luck!

I would say this is actually a great thing! Food driven dogs are easier to train because they are always excited about a treat. Use it to your advantage!

As far as stealing food- especially if its from counters- that's on you to keep the counters clean so she never gets anything. If she gets something off the counter then she will continue to steal. If she doesn't, that should eventually go away. if you catch her eyeing a counter and looking like she is about to jump- get her attention and give her a treat for looking at you instead of jumping. Rewarding right before the unwanted behavior occurs, rather than correcting it as it happens usually has more impact on the dog.

Teaching a strong leave it is also going to be key. Take some kibble or something that the dog really likes and have her lay down or sit. Place the food out of her reach and if she tries to get it- pick it up. As she backs off, put it back down. When she eventually stops trying- reward right there in that moment with something even better from behind your back. Dog will learn, if i don't try to eat that, I might get something better. My puppy class teacher told us to never let them get something themselves that they have been told to leave but you can pick it up and hand it to them. You have to practice this a lot in varied situations. For example- my pup is so good at this when you ask her to lay down, you can place treats on her paws and she won't take them; but, if you drop hot dog from the counter to the floor that is much harder so we have been working on that.


For slowing her down during meal time

1. try a puzzle bowl or slow feeder like this
   
   
2. wet her kibble and let it get a little mushy, stuff it in a kong and freeze then give it to her
   
   
3. get a kong wobbler or similar toy and feed from that
   
   
4. make her work for 1/2 her meal as training using kibble as the reward
   
   all of these things will help wear her out as well as play into her strong desire to eat!

> However, he's intelligent enough to know that when I'm not at home, he can do whatever he wants.



This is a common concept throughout the animal kingdom. Humans, too. It's why corrections are ineffective for this type of situation, because he does these things when you're not home, therefore negating the ability for anyone to correct the behavior. Management, daily mental/physical stimulation, and short, fun training sessions are the top ways to address it.



Have you tried a slow feeder bowl for water?


How do you feel about crate training for when you are gone?


> I have tried pretending to leave and catching him in the act.


It sounds like this has exacerbated the problem. I would stop doing this if you are. He is learning how to test whether or not you are home, as you've discovered.


I would absolutely try fun, positive vibe-feeling crate training for this sort of stuff. If you play lots of games with the crate (many on Youtube), make it very fun and all about good things, give him food, treats, bones, etc. in there, he will learn that it's a fun and safe space where good things happen.


However, if he is only doing these things when you're not home, it could be that he is exhibiting separation anxiety. If you find that crate training or placing him in a safe room/bathroom is unsuccessful, I would recommend contacting a veterinary behaviorist or extremely competent behaviorist or certified trainer. I say vet behaviorist first because if it is true sep anx, and it is severe enough objectively, pharmalogical intervention can help training sessions actually sink in, because anxious brains can't learn.

It's just like losing weight for a human - eat less, move more. Keep the foods she likes, just give her less of them. Talk with the vet about 1) what is her healthy weight, 2) how many calories should she eat to maintain that weight. Then do some research on the foods she's getting to figure out their calorie content.
 
While there are other cats around, it's going to be difficult to control fatcat's intake. So maybe focus on playing with her more? Chase the laser pointer for a couple minutes, feather on a string, etc. Remember that any activity is more calories she's expending, so it doesn't have to be the kitty equivalent of a marathon!
 
Once she's by herself, try feeding several small portions of regular cat food per day, so she's not actually hungry in between. Basically, snacking all day. Some days it's only going to work out that she gets fed at breakfast, when you come home from work, and at bedtime, but that's OK.
 
For canned food (which has fewer calories per weight than kibble, so use more of it), take that spoonful and s-p-r-e-a-d it around her bowl, smush it down a bit so she has to take more time working to eat. It will at least occupy her longer.
For kibble, how about a slow-eating bowl or mat? They have ridges which contain the kibble and prevent scarfing... again requiring more time and attention from kitty. She's eating longer, maybe she thinks she's eating more?
Here's an example; there are many different designs: https://www.amazon.com/JASGOOD-Eco-Friendly-Durable-Non-Toxic-Preventing/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref

Slow feeders are an option too. This is the one we have, for example. Increases our dude's feeding time from about 45 seconds (standard bowl) to over 5 minutes.

I use a gobble stopper. Seems to work in slowing my dog down.

There's also this Northmate green feeder, but I have never used it.

What do you use to feed her meals? Would something like this slow feeder work for her? I've heard it keeps dogs occupied for a long time, and it's good mental stimulation which can be just as tiring as physical activity.

A slow bowl (something like this or this can really help cut down on gas/bloat for dogs who eat quickly. We have a Boston terrier and a Frenchie mix and they will horf down their food like it's a race. The slow bowls have cut down on belching/farting TREMENDOUSLY. I can't recommend them enough for dogs that vacuum food up. ;)

I recommend them. When we got our corgi he wolfed down food so fast we were scared he would get sick. Corgis tend to be pretty food focused. We use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3AZ5PG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DfsKxbF90AV4C

I have a mini Aussie so I feel you. I try to be as inventive as possible with my budget but I suggest most interactive/treat dispensing toys. I make large ice cubes that are half chicken/beef broth with a jerky or bone sticking out only a little. Then because it’s a mini and she’s not a huge chewer I can make these inside a talenti gelato container. So basically inside a Tupperware (which plastic isn’t ideal because they can swallow it but mine doesn’t and focuses on the bone) there is the half and half broth with a bone and an easy treat to get. She also doesn’t eat paper/cardboard so I can put a bone or treat inside a tissue box or empty pasta box or whatever and she’ll rip it apart to get to it. Once again, I can only do it because I’m watching and I know she does not ingest this.

Here are some toys I suggest that are proven safer:

Lumo Ball

Snuffle Mat I really like the snuffle mat because you can feed all your meals in this and bring it with you if you want to keep your dog busy wherever you are.

OSPet Interactive Feeder
Trixie Puzzle

Ottosson Puzzle I really like most toys Outward Hound makes.

My dog’s favorite kong I find I can put just a biscuit or fill it full of kibble and pb and she’ll spend quite a bit of time getting it out.

Most Labs do tend to eat with gusto. Make sure he's getting enough food. They do make some different food bowls to supposedly slow dogs down.

Interactive slow pet feeder

Skidstop slow feeder bowl

Gobble stopper bowl addition

Buster dog maze

I personally have had success with the treat type balls.

Kong wobbler

Kibble Nibbler

One of my shibas throws up sometimes after eating but that is because she is eating too fast. We got her one of those slow feeder bowls (like this), which solved the problem.

If it is the fact that she's eating too fast, you can try one of these. It's fairly normal for dogs to not chew their food very much though, they don't have the same molars we do. A bigger concern is packing a lot of food down in a very short amount of time, which can cause bloat in the long run.

Try This Bowl, it's worked wonders for my adopted dog, who would wolf her food down so fast she'd sometimes get sick when I first got her. This bowl increased her eating time from about 10 seconds to about 3 minutes. Not a huge amount of time, you might think, but for my other dog (who has always eaten at a "normal" leisurely pace), his eating time increased from about 1 minute to 5-6 mins with the bowl.

You need one of these:

Slow food bowl: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG

Have you tried one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NF681T/

It doesn't slow the dog down as much as a maze bowl but I think it does it enough. At least with our dog. I guess ymmv

If the problem is him eating too fast (which many dogs "vacuum" food when eating too fast!), try one of those bowls that forces the dog to hunt down the food and make them eat slower. Something similar to this.

A friend of mine had pretty good luck with something similar to help her dogs slow down when eating, but I haven't tried any personally.

Edit: formatting

We tried so many and found none that he went crazy for. So we went back to cheap nature's domain from Costco. He ate it about as well as he ate anything.


I guess poodles are so smart that if things aren't a challenge, it's not worth it to him. It was really frustrating for a long, long time. It still is, but we found a system that worked. Kong stuffed with kibble and a tiny bit of Kong stuffin spray peanut butter for breakfast. Dinner in a slow feeder or that treat ball linked earlier, or as "treats" for training. My vet tells me he is the absolute perfect body type, and he can hike 20km with a pack no problem. So I guess he's just a princess.


My wheaten isn't a chow hound either. But I mean, he didn't cause himself to throw up multiple times a day for months because he refused to eat. So that was a win.

They make special food bowls with large round "prongs" that stick up to slow down fast eating dogs.

My sister had a golden retriever that would eat so fast he almost choked, so she got one of these bowls and never had any problems.

Here... this is so much safer than rocks.

They sell food bowls for this.

JASGOOD Dog Feeder Slow Eating Pet Bowl Eco-Friendly Durable Non-Toxic Preventing Ch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_srrTBb26W9GWP

Slow Feed Non-Skid Dog Bowl Large (Blue/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009O3CFES/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_gsrTBb2N5YDQZ

Outward Hound Slow Feeder Dog Bowl Fun Feeder Stop Bloat Bowl for Dogs, Large, Teal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPKNRF0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_OqrTBb863HXHA

Get a slow-eat dog bowl

example

Have you heard of the puzzle bowls for cats? It reduces choking and other stuff that pets do. Here is a link. I’m not a promoter or whatever. Just wanting to pass along the info

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XTSLGG3/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So my best advice for dogs who are not enjoying being left alone is to fill a kong with kibble, run water through for about 5 seconds, seal the top with peanut butter and then freeze. Give that to the dog when you're about to leave.

This concerns me with tiny puppies though. They are too little for frozen, and if they aren't fully weaned, it might be too much kibble for them, too.

I've been wracking my brain trying to figure out what else you could do. You can put their wet food on a lickimat-- it's basically a silicone pot holder that is extra durable with a bunch of bumps on it. You spread the food out on it, freeze if desired (you'll have to judge how much cold they can take), and then give it to them. They can all pile around it and lick on it if they aren't aggressive.

Get the baby used to having you disappear while he eats. Time how long it takes for him to cry for you. That's your time limit.

SO then begins a game of "distract the baby, leave and come back before baby cries." Get the puppy distracted with the lickimat, go do load of laundry and then come back a minute or two before your time limit is up. Try to make it so that you always come back before he cries.

The other you can do is teach them to sit before they get to come out of their crate. 4 weeks is still tiny, but you can probably begin training that reflex into them by making them sit for everything. Sit for pets. Sit for food. Sit by the door. Sit just for fun. Then, if you're able to, you can try having the puppy sit while you walk into another room and back into the same room as the puppy.

He might need some one-on-one time. Also, try calling around your town for animal behaviorists. They could probably give you some quick and easy tips and probably would be willing to spend 5-10 minutes on the phone with you without charging you.

LInk:
https://www.amazon.com/LM9002-Industripet-LickiMat-Soother/dp/B072C643XV/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1524887030&sr=8-2&keywords=lickimat

It could be that your kitten needs to slow down how it's eating...you could try feeding smaller amounts more frequently throughout the day, or a slow feeder bowl. If it continues it could be a diet incompatibility and you may have to discuss what other diets to transition to with your vet. You can also see if your vet can recommend any probiotics that may help as well, those are typically not prescription (where I live they aren't) and they may have some on hand to sell you. Best of luck.

UPSKY Slow Feeder Dog Bowl Fun Feeder No Chocking Slow Feeder Bloat Stop Dog Cat Food Water Bowl with Funny Pattern https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07HVS95GR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7thmDbBRVSJRQ

Yeah it's this one. It slows him down from about 15 to 90 seconds.

I had to get something similar for my dogs. Otherwise they scarf down their food in under 10 seconds.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F3AZ5PG

Edit: added a link

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Noyal-Feeder-Puzzle-Anti-Gulping-Feeding/dp/B07G21F45T/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=pet+labrynth+bowl&qid=1571948193&sr=8-8

Green feeder? http://www.amazon.com/Northmate-101027-Interactive-Feeder/dp/B009CKHXYU They really need to use their tongues on it.

P.S. (It didn't fit in the other post!) I've now tried the second feeding device that I got, the Company of Animals Interactive Feeder, and I am very happy with it; Indra seems to be too! I am alternating between feeding him in this and the Kong Wobbler. It definitely slows the process down and he has to work at getting his food, which is apparently the "mental stimulation" thing. :~)

Here's another example- Outward Hound Fun Feeder Dog Bowl Slow Feeder Stop Bloat for Dogs, Small, Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L3O2956/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoSezb180JFDG

This should help keep the dog from dipping/soaking their face

Be aware that eating too much, too fast and exercising immediately after eating can potentially cause bloat. My vet recommended no exercise for 1 hour after eating - so I usually feed my pup post-walk.

Sudden changes to his diet can cause tummy upsets and diarrhoea. Not chewing isn't really an issue, just a side effect of how fast he eats.

If it's dry food, bear in mind it swells when damp, so a stomach packed full of dry food can become over-full and he'll puke to relieve pressure - if that sounds possible, you could reduce the portion size and increase number of meals per day so he can't overstuff himself in one sitting.

Check out Green Interactive Feeder - my pup takes around 20 minutes to clear his.

Got it on Amazon in size Large. Here is the link: Mr. Peanut's Stainless Steel Interactive Slow Feed Dog Bowl with a Silicone Base, Fun Healthy Bloat Stop Feeder (Large) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073NH96JC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8CP6Cb4N86V59

My dog was inhaling her food to the point of horking and gagging every time until I got her a slow feeder [similar to this one] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2BEPD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yRb-Bb7Z93DRC) but it got too easy for her. Lately I've been feeding her food in [this puzzle] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7Sb-BbY9PZQM1) where she has to remove the bones before getting a few pieces at a time.

This might help


And a slow feeder bowl for the fast one.

My lab inhales her food insanely fast, so we use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MV4TPQR

She still gets it down pretty fast but it helps.

I'm sure your puppers is fine, most dog enjoy or need a trick to be granted their meals but they are making these dishes now that are stimulating for them. Like this:
JASGOOD Dog Feeder Slow Eating Pet Bowl Eco-Friendly Durable Non-Toxic Preventing Choking Healthy Design Bowl for Dog Pet Stop Bloat Bowl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ctHXBbYS06AYM

There's a dog bowl that has tons of ridges and obstructions in it just for dogs that eat too fast, (my dog used to do it aswell)

Edit added link to said bowl below

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTC3YEZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_63wTBbXHD8694

For the option that won't kill your dog...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F8L63ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k6pTBb2WASFR1