Best dog treats according to redditors
We found 647 Reddit comments discussing the best dog treats. We ranked the 400 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 647 Reddit comments discussing the best dog treats. We ranked the 400 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KEWW7E/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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You now know not to put your dog near any other dog, to your sorrow and the unfortunateness of all involved.
If you know you can't handle this dog, his behaviors and his energy level, then there IS no shame in giving him up. Not every dog is suited for every household and it seems you and your situation is best suited to a lower energy and more affable pooch. Not everyone can handle a high energy and dog aggressive dog, this also is not shameful! Your pet may be happier and healthier and safer in someone else's hands, meanwhile there is the actual perfect rescue dog for you waiting out there.
If you choose to turn him over to a shelter, be clear with his record against other dogs or they might make some stupid mistakes themselves.
If you choose to keep your dog, look into getting a break stick immediately, learn how to use it, and begin muzzle training. Get a no-pull harness or head-halter to curb his bad leash manners. https://www.amazon.com/The-K-9-Center-Break-Stick/dp/B004RU81VY
WTF yes they do. Have you never been around cows before? You can buy them as chew toys for your dog.
The only sure way of breaking them off each other is with a breaking stick. The finger in the butt is a myth that was told as a joke to see if people would try it. Contrary to popular belief pit bulls can’t “lock” their jaws with some special mechanisms that they have.
A breaking stick is a hard plastic polymer stick about 12 inches long very thin but about 2 1/2 inches wide. The tip is inserted into the dogs mouth where there’s a natural gap between their molars and then twisted which opens their mouth enough to put the other dog loose. Always straddle the dog and lock your legs around where their belly ends and hips begin to help immobilize them hold the collar with one hand and breaking stick with your other hand then break them apart.
It takes two people to break up two dogs that are determined to get each other. If you only break one loose the other is gonna hold on for dear life and probably start pulling and shaking too.
Source: I own game bred pit bulls for catch dogs on wild boar and occasionally they’ll lock up with each other.
Here is a wooden breaking stick from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/The-K-9-Center-Break-Stick/dp/B004RU81VY
I prefer the plastic. They’re much tougher and don’t splinter.
These stinky fish treats. They were recommended to me by a fellow reactive dog owner on /r/dogtraining. I can't sing their praises enough. They're dry and you can easily break them into smaller pieces. And they STINK of fish.
Edit: Seeing several recommendations for Zuke's, just wanted to add that I've also tried them and they weren't high value enough for my dog outdoors.
Lots of big dog stuff here! Here's some nice things for the little guys (~25 lbs and under). Many of these items are good for big dogs, too; will note them with a * sign and list them first in each section.
Treats
Toys
Harnesses, Collars, & Safety
Grooming
Edited to add more+formatting!
Dog aggression actually manifests with social maturity, generally (2-3 years). Around that age you'll typically see dramatic reductions in tolerance to foolishness, even with dogs that are good with other dogs.
Many pits will be dog-selective (or even dog-friendly!) up to that point, then genetic influence sets in and dog aggression will take hold.
My advice is to muzzle train and keep her away from other dogs.
Dog aggression and human aggression area entirely distinct issues, just so you know. Her dog aggression has pretty much no implications for aggression toward humans, EXCEPT with regard to "redirected aggression" in dog fights.
That is, even though she loves people, it is still a very real risk that any human sticking their hand in to stop her from biting another dog will get bitten. This is an excellent reason to muzzle train her, as well as invest in a break stick just in case.
If you have a glass tank already, I would not get a ball python. They don't do so well in glass tanks as they have high humidity needs, and the screen tops don't hold in humidity and the glass walls don't hold heat it. It would be an uphill battle with constant stress on you and potential health issues for your snake.
Corn sakes and sand boas and hognoses do pretty well in glass tanks though, and a 40g long tank would be a good home for them.
I would suggest picking a species first, and then start researching. Some basics that you will need regardless:
1.) Hides, more than 1. Half logs can be pretty decoration but they aren't that great for a snake feeling safe in. A good cheap hide are these, which you can order online. These are well made, sturdy, dishwasher safe, and are enclosed spaces with only 1 entrance - my ball python and rainbow boa are both very happy with theirs. If you like aesthestics you can use foam and paint to make them look pretty cool using this tutorial or you can purchase some of these
2.) Heat Sources: You will need either ceramic heat emitters, under tank heaters, or both. I would recommend staying away from heat lights as you need to turn lights off at night and most snakes can see even red light. Ceramic heat emitters give off heat but not light. I don't have recommendations for these as I don't use them. I do have recommendations for under tank heaters, which are these, from the same place as the hides. You can also get heat tape from Reptile Basics and they are super helpful in making sure you have everything you need to set up with it. ZooMed or Zilla stick on pads are not that great and can break super easily. If you do end up with one of these, I suggest sticking aluminum foil to the adhesive and then attaching it with foil tape, this will make it re-usable. STAY AWAY FROM HEAT ROCKS.
3.) Thermostats. You will need 1 thermostat per heat source. This is NECESSARY. This is not something you can skip out on. Heat pads and CHE's can easily get hot enough to fry your reptiles. This is the model I am currently using for my heat sources, and other people here use them too. They don't have a lot of crucial safety features, though. I am saving up for one of these Herpstat's. You can get one with multiple probes for multiple heat sources, and it has a ton of good safety features. Tons of people here use these, so if you have questions about which one to get, someone here can answer you.
4.) Security: All snakes are escape artists. All of them. Even the one you don't see ever leave their hides. A stack of books or some rocks on the lid are not security measures. You will want to look into lid clamps, or a system that slides in and has a means of locking. I had my baby boa in an Iris Weathertight box which had 6 locking lid clamps while he was in quarantine. Now he is in an Animal Plastics t8 w sliding doors and I have a lock on them. If you have questions about if your set up will be secure enough, please post pics here and we can helpyou spot potential escape routes. Or you can just search "lost snake" or "escape" on this sub and see some of the ways snakes have escaped. But rocks and books are a guarantee to end with an escaped snake.
5.) Temp and Humidity Guages: These stick on ones are no good. They are dangerous and sometimes deadly - I don't care how cheap they are, or how much of a budget you are on, they are inaccurate and the adhesive WILL give way and your snake could get stuck to it. This is the one I use. I have the "outdoor" probe sitting on the floor of the enclosure on the hot side (under the substrate) and the unit itself sitting on the cool side. This lets me quickly see the temperature gradient and humidity.
6.) Substrate: This is going to be highly individual to what kind of snake you get and what its humidity needs are. Sand boas will need a ton more than a corn snake, for example. But pine is toxic, so avoid that. Figure out what kind of snake you are getting and plan for a substrate for them.
7.) What to Feed: you're gonna have to feed whole prey items. It is highly recommended that you feed either frozen/thawed or pre-killed. I order mine frozen thawed from either Layne Labs or Perfect Prey. I keep them in my freezer and I have a pair of feeding tongs I use to feed with. I usually take them out of the freezer and put them in the fridge the night before feeding day. When I get home from work I take them out of the fridge and set them on the counter (in a plastic bag) to get them to warm temp. Then I get some boiling water, put it in a bowl, put a plate on top of the bowl, and put the prey items on top of the plate. I do this until they reach approx 100F (use a IR temp gun if you have one), and then I run the heads under a hot water until they reach about 110F. I do this for both prey items for my ball python and my rainbow boa, even though my rainbow boa doesn't have heat pits, it's just easier cause I keep them in the same ziplock bag. I then use the tongs to dangle the prey and move it around to make it look like it's "live". Some snakes aren't picky and won't mind a room temp rodent, others will want a dance. My boa is a champ and will knock back food no problem. My ball python will want me to dance the rat around for twenty minutes while she gets into striking position and contemplates the meaning of life, the universe, and everything. Ball pythons are usually picky. Pre-killed means you buy the rodent live, and then kill it yourself, and immediately present it to the snake. You can achieve this with a euthanasia chamber or twisting the neck. Feeding live isn't really the greatest, as there is a chance the prey item will attack and hurt your snake. This is especially true of adult rats, which have sharp teeth and claws. In the wild, a snake could see a prey item and if it's not hungry, it could run away. In captivity, neither the rat nor the snake can run away, and this can lead to snakes being defensive and just trying to hide while a rat bites it fearing attack.
8.) How to Feed: In addition to this, you will probably hear about "cage agression" and needing a seperate tank to feed in. This is a lie. Your snake will not associate your hand / opening of the cage as "feeding time" unless it is the only time your hand is in there. And it won't be, you will be changing water, cleaning poop and urates, changing substrate, and more! After a snake has eating, they need at least 48 hours to digest their food. If they don't have this time, they may regurgitate the food. Regurgitation is an emergency medical event. In order to avoid this, after your snake has been feed, they should be left completely alone for 48 hours, no handling. If you feed in a seperate enclosure, this means that you will be moving your snake post-feeding. This also increases your chances of being bitten. Your hand may smell like rodent still, and your snake will still be in hunting mode, and may think your hand is seconds. So feed in your enclosure. It's less stressful for your snake, less stressful for you, and you have a much lower risk of being bitten.
That's a general overview, I may have left something out there, but I think you can get the general basics. Next you should pick a species and start asking here for more specific advise!!
I wish you and your future scale-child the best of luck!
These are apparently a lot better for dogs than normal rawhides. Wife's sister works at a Pet Store and that's what she says anyways
https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Animal-No-Hide-Chicken-2-Pack/dp/B0125DS0LU
At the risk of sounding like an asshole, you probably need to put a muzzle on your dog when you walk him anywhere there might be cats. You should also make sure you carry a break stick with you and know how to use it just in case your dog gets a hold of something and decides he isn't going to 'leave it'.
My pup was attacked by a pit mix last year while on a hiking trail. The owner had no clue what to do and her shrill screaming of "let go" and "drop it" did nothing. She was next to useless. I ended up having to choke her dog out with my knee before it let go. It was not a good day for anybody.
If you know your dog is reactive and has a strong prey instinct, you need to know how to deal with a worst case scenario (break stick), and ideally prevent it from happening (the muzzle).
As an aside, I was told by the vet afterwards that most pit bulls will release their jaw if you stick your thumb in their ass. Who knew?
My first border collie used to baby her toys. She'd carry them around with her everywhere and even sleep with them. By the time she was a year old she still had toys that I had gotten her at birth. My second border collie is a bit more of a "let's see how fast I can shred it" type. Unfortunately my second BC chewed up many of my first BC's favorites (which she pouted about for days). MORE unfortunately is that now my first BC has learned that shredding toys is indeed a fun thing to do.
I've found that no toy is "indestructible" for a border collie. The [rope toys] (http://www.amazon.com/Flossy-Cottonblend-3-Knot-Medium-20-Inch/dp/B001GIEZLA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1404189615&sr=1-1&keywords=rope+toy), kongs, and real bones (not the rawhide ones) tend to last longer though. We now have sets of toys they are allowed to gnaw away at whenever they want, and toys they are only allowed to play with while under supervision.
Oh man, I am right there with you. My second dog was adopted 6 months ago. He's finally settling in and we can really see that all of the BAT work we've been doing for the past 5 months is really making a difference. Unfortunately, he's now comfortable and safe enough to exhibit those exact behaviors--resource guarding and barking for attention. This is a trying time.
First, as an ex-vet tech of 12 years, I hate the gentle leader. It seems to make dogs a lot more frustrated and it's very bad for their neck. Instead, try the Easy Walk harness--it fastens in the front and operates on a similar principle--they can't pull as much because the harness mechanics mess with their center of gravity. They can still pull, which is actually a good thing. You can work on training for pulling, which will stick a lot better than by just making it hard to pull, and they can't hurt themselves if they get overexcited and lunge unexpectedly. A dog can (and many have) break its neck lunging on the gentle leader when the owner holds on and their head is snapped back.
Dial back the expectations and set your dog up for success. If it's too distracting to practice walking nicely outside, do it inside. Do your best outside in the mean time, but focus on the learning inside. Then, when he can walk on a loose lead inside without an issue for 10-20 minutes, try moving the work outside for 5 minutes. He'll always backslide every time you move the trained behavior to a new environment because dogs don't generalize well. So, if you teach your dog to heel in the living room, you will need to remind him how to heel in the front yard and tell him that the rules he already knows apply out here as well. At first, you'll have to practice for a few minutes before entering a new environment before the dog gets it and makes you the common denominator in his good behavior.
He's a heeler, so he needs a lot more exercise than a walk after work. They are bred to herd livestock for 8-12 hours a day. His behavior is screaming "I AM BORED AND HAVE TOO MUCH ENERGY"--a tired dog is too tired to develop bad habits. In the morning, get up, feed him, and take him on a multi-mile run. Walk him when you get home, and if you can hire a dog walker to stop by in the middle of the day and walk him--do that. It's usually about $20 a day for that sort of thing. Find a fenced in area where you can let him off the leash and play fetch. Teach him to drop it--showing him that if he gives you something, something fun will happen is going to help a lot with the resource guarding.
Stop giving him rawhides. If he eats them that quickly, he's going to choke or get an intestinal blockage. Instead, get something like pizzle sticks or pig ears which are more brittle and fibrous and won't form gooey, unsoluable masses like a half chewed rawhide. An antler would be a much better chew for him. Don't get the ones that are sliced in half or quarters, they don't last very long. Get the whole ones. [These] (http://www.amazon.com/Newts-Chews-NCO-19905-Antler-Large/dp/B005FU4XBW/ref=pd_sim_petsupplies_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0HACBQ0M7TFZ3RT9PT88) have the horn material all around the tasty soft stuff while [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Naturals-Calcium-Stick-Antler/dp/B00HEF83B2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420566308&sr=8-4&keywords=antler) have all the soft stuff exposed and he'll consume it very quickly. You can even buy them in bulk. Another favorite chew in our house is a frozen beef marrow bone. Do not ever, ever give your dog a cooked bone. But, a raw bone is fine. I get them way cheaper at the pet store than what I can find on [Amazon] (http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Variety-Frozen-Bones-6-Count/dp/B00HYFBBH0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420566550&sr=1-1&keywords=frozen+beef+bones), but they are relatively inexpensive and if you give it to him still frozen, he'll take an hour to get all the marrow and meat bits off and then can chew on the bone for days. We give ours a bone when we have to leave for a long time or at least once a week.
In the interim--if he growls at you, back off. He's warning you that he's not ok with what you're doing and you need to respect that. Do not ever punish him or yell at him when he growls. You're not telling him that the guarding behavior is bad, you're telling him that warning you that he's thinking of biting you is bad. So, the result of punishing him for growling will be that he will stop warning you before he snaps. That is very unsafe. We're dealing with that now--my dog's previous owners probably punished him for growling because he rarely does it before he snaps at someone. I've been heavily encouraging the growling when it happens by respecting his warning and leaving the area. In response to that, and the other work on resource guarding, he growls more frequently instead of snapping, and the overall incidence of the guarding behavior is decreasing. So rather than snapping 10 times a week, he's growling 2-3 times a week and snapping maybe once.
For now, pick up all of his toys and chews. He can only have one at a time, which you hand him and you will pick up once he's lost interest. This makes it easy for you to play the trading game, where he has a toy and you offer him a different toy or treat. Practicing that game will help a lot with the guarding. Play it as often as you can and stop when he tells you he doesn't want to play. He'll either growl to warn you off or he'll walk away. Respect his boundaries for now and work on other things that will reduce those boundaries over time. He needs to trust you guys and respecting his boundaries really builds a lot of trust. It also gives you leeway for when you have to ignore his boundaries and give him a bath, clip his nails, or pull cactus thorns out of his face.
Misdirection works only if you have something of equal or greater value to exchange. So, find some really awesome treats and work on 'drop it'. If he gets a Super Awesome treat in exchange for putting down a stick, he'll start to associate you taking what he has with a positive experience. Be really, really, ridiculously excited when he does it, especially at first. Praise heavily, use a high pitched and excited voice and shower with treats. You can either give a few by hand or you can do my favorite and make it rain.
I couldn't even imagine a human eating one.... let alone 25.
The deal is over, I paid 30 bucks, here's the link...
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001KEWW7E/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Never give another dog a treat without first okaying it with their owner. They might have allergies/a strict diet and you also don't want to accidentally reward them for behavior that their owner is trying to train them out of.
Having a few treats on you probably isn't too harmful, but only give them to your dog when they are away from other dogs - some dogs might get food-aggressive if they see you handing out treats to other dogs.
If you have treats on you, I recommend bringing low-odor treats that are flavored non-traditionally for dog treats. I usually bring 3 or 4 "Pumpkin and Apple" or "Vanilla" flavored dog treats in my pocket to reward my dog when she successfully recalls while distracted at the park. 95%+ of the time a dog sniffing me doesn't even realize I have treats on me with those.
When giving my dog the treat, I usually keep a treat palmed in my hand like a magician does with coins, then pet my dog and slip it in her mouth when she is away from other dogs and they aren't looking.
Try the following toys:
Himalayan yak chews
They last forever, and he LOVES them!
I used this mix. Substituted coconut oil for the other & used pumpkin purée instead of the "frosting mix" included in the box.
https://www.amazon.com/Puppy-Cake-Wheat-Free-Peanut-Frosting/dp/B0068OWGE0
Unfortunately, there are more important criteria to consider when setting up a new snake aside from what you like the look of-like what will work best in the enclosure and what will give the snake the best quality of life. Just having it pushed against the back isn't a very efficient solution; after all, it can be moved, and in a clear glass tank, it can still feel exposed. Many experienced keepers also recommend having two identical hides so the snake doesn't have to choose between security and temperature, but as far as I'm concerned, as long as you've got two appropriately sized single-entrance hides, you should be okay. I use these with a few of my snakes, they work well too.
>How often should you stop
Consider their schedule already - try to maintain their bathroom/meal/exercise schedule while on the road. Dogs thrive on routine and in scary new situations like moving across country, it can be their 'rock' to get through the transition. You will likely need to stop 4 or 5 times for potty breaks, 2 or 3 times for meal breaks (try to find restaurants that allow dogs or parks for a picnic) and once or twice a day for some exercise (long walk after a picnic/meal, finding a local dog park to let them off leash, playing obedience games in the hotel, etc).
>Is there any way to find out the closest dog parks to the highway
When you are in the car and about ready for a break - get out your smart phone and do a local search for 'dog parks'. You should be able to find them fairly easy in all major cities you pass through (smaller towns are less likely to have areas like this). If you find yourself in the middle of no where and need a break - many places will have signs for states parks, nature areas or rest stops that you can take some long walks through. If possible - plan to stop at some of the bigger 'attractions'/parks and maybe spend an afternoon hiking. Your dogs will be much more tired for much longer with a nice little adventure (and it is good for the humans, too. Being stuck in a car driving across country is tough on everyone).
>Anything I should know/be prepared for before taking a 2,200 mile trip with the pups?
cow hoof dog treat
an under tank heat pad is necessary as a primary heat source. use a heat pad that's large enough to cover 1/3 to 1/2 of the floor. you must also use a thermostat with the heat pad, to ensure proper safe temperatures are maintained. a ceramic heat emitter can be used as supplemental heat, but with a well insulated enclosure kept in a room that's not too cold, a heat lamp should not be necessary.
the tank size depends on the snake size. length of tank plus width of tank should be equal to or greater than length of snake. ball pythons are terrestrial/burrowing snakes, so they don't need a tank that's particularly tall.
my 4'3" ball python is housed in a 421D boaphile cage with the following equipment/accessories:
i also have a temp gun to spot-check the temperature anywhere in the enclosure.
Puppy Cake Wheat-Free Peanut Butter Cake Mix and Frosting for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068OWGE0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_abBwDbGQPFM1N
We've had good experiences with Fruitables Crunchy Dog Treats, all of them are made with pumpkin and the fruit that adds the flavor.
Ingredient list is short, our pup loves them and doesn't upset her stomach!
You are both quite possibly the most beautiful redditors in the world!! :)
<.a href="http://www.amazon.com/Modern-PURPLE-BLACK-SILVER-Chenille/dp/B00B6PJ2HA/ref=sr_1_88?s=bedbath&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371237879&amp;sr=1-88&amp;keywords=Bedding"&gt;Gift One<./a> I am moving out on my own again soon and I really need some bedding!
<.a href="http://www.amazon.com/Chasing-Our-Tails-100-Percent-Naturally/dp/B0053WMOKE/ref=lp_2975434011_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1371238681&amp;sr=1-17"&gt;Gift two<./a> A treat for my best bud!
C'mon...gimme.
You guys are awesome for doing this! :)
Zukes minis
Zuke's jerky bites
Zukes filets
Wellness pure rewards
Rocco & roxie jerky sticks
Honest Kitchen Beams
plato salmon strips
sojos
freeze dried lamb
Those are some my dogs like.
Edit: Most of these can be cut up into small pieces for training
Go on youtube and look at videos of people trying to stop a pitbull attacks. I would recommend you don't because the videos are very upsetting. Stopping a pit from attacking is extremely hard to do, basically impossible. This is why pit bull professionals carry break sticks.
https://www.amazon.com/The-K-9-Center-Break-Stick/dp/B004RU81VY
I would try this in the beef jerky flavor. My dogs love the lamb and salmon.
Our cats used to go nuts for these! Granted, ee never had dogs, but it is advertised as being made for both species.
Halo Liv-A-Littles Grain Free Natural Dog Treats & Cat Treats, Freeze Dried Chicken Breast, 2.2-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027CL5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AUi3CbG6M6WY3
The one that makes them feel safe and secure.
Mine lives in a 4x2 enclosure. With that size, I have six hides spread across the temperature gradient along with other decorations to create cover. Here are the two types of hides I like:
I have two of these: Exo Terra Reptile Cave, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F3YJ9O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VNhIzbAWM1M71
I have four of these: Reptile Basics Small Hide Box
http://www.reptilebasics.com/small-hide-box
Have you tried No-Hide chews? My dogs love 'em.
https://www.amazon.com/The-K-9-Center-Break-Stick/dp/B004RU81VY
Just a stick to pry open the dog's jaw.
Bro. Time to get baking.
When my BN plecos were breeding, secure caves were super important. The first time they spawned was in a little hole in some driftwood. I've since had others spawn in thin glass vases (that was super cool to see) and pretty much anything secure that they can both fit into. They really like the whole thing to be enclosed- they don't like it when other fish have access to their cave- only one entrance is good. You can buy pleco caves online. If you really want them to breed, get a male and 2-3 females (so you would either have to get mature fish or a handful of younger ones to grow out and rehome as necessary). I had one male that spawned with two females each month- one would drop her eggs, leave, and then the other one would. They spawned in one of these reptile caves. I had A LOT of little plecos for a long time with that trio. Other than that, clean water and good food.
if you live in the us one of the cheapest places to get coir is amazon.
3x8qt bricks for $4.49
Seconded. I've had luck with ordering this brand from Amazon. They seem expensive but they last my corgi about 3 months, compared to how she'll go through a decent sized rawhide in one day.
We should totally get these elk rack snacks because I also have a largish dog and my cousin who owns his own pet store always talks about how great and natural these are but I have still never bought one yet! ZOMG We Need this! FOR HAPPY PUPPIES!
I've used those liver treats. They have a pretty strong organ meat smell. I think the smell must be pretty strong. Our cat normally doesn't care for dog treats, but she managed to open our cupboard and the liver treat container and gorged herself on them.
These Plato treats are super fishy smelling. Not sure if foreign kibble is high enough value, but Orijen sells .75 pound trial bags of their 6 Fish kibble. That stuff is sooo fishy. You can also put some hella disgusting things in a food tube if you have a toothpaste tube lying around to make one. Something like tuna, anchovy, and yogurt pureed together will smell awful-delicious.
Antlers are a great option (as others have reccomended). But, my dog is far more partial to Himalayan Chews. They come in various sizes, and last well even for heavy chewers.
My vet actually reccomended these because they are easier on teeth than antlers, as they are made from yak milk. They are less likely to shatter, which sounds like something that may be good for your dog.
Himalayan Cheese. Lasts for days:
http://www.amazon.com/Himalayan-Dog-Natural-Treat-Under/dp/B001J9SUHG
To add some better, more digestible alternatives are bully sticks/rings (which can be had de-scented) and ChurpiChews/Himalayan Chews.
The cool thing about the latter is that, when it gets too small to chew, you can pop it in the microwave for a few seconds and turn it into a big doggie cheeto. :D
Yeah they're really hard, and have some type of bone (antler?) marrow inside. Apparently they're good for the teeth.
Here is the first result on amazon. I'm Canadian so prices were a little different for me.
Chasing Our Tails Elk Rack Snack, 100-Percent All Naturally Shed El... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0053WMOJA/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_UF91tb0C4WKFE
I have been looking into this as well. With Millie's recurring URI I am also hesitant to use soil. It is also incredibly difficult to find untreated soil in small amounts for purchase in my area.
One thing I have read here and elsewhere is to try coconut husk fiber that is used in reptile terrariums. Eco Earth is a brand name I have seen a lot, and I also found this one that seemed cheap enough for a one off try.
Another suggestion made in a similar thread by /u/PeaceLoveLindzy was flax seed. I have also thought about picking some of that up to try. Once we get back from our trip I plan to give one or both a try to see how it goes.
That's awesome that you moved from sand, it can actually kill leos, particularly babies. The cricket stuff you're using sounds good too!
As for suggestions, definitely the UTH and thermostat combo I linked, since those are both decently priced. I've used these hides and have liked them, but you can definitely get away with just buying the Petsmart/Petco ones and it may be a little cheaper. Likewise, some people just cut opaque tupperware or use broken (but smooth-edged) pots and stuff as well. I even had a friend who made their hides out of legos.
i get mine on amazon. I don't know if amazon ships to iceland, but here is the link.
http://www.amazon.com/Chasing-Our-Tails-100-Percent-Naturally/dp/B0053WMOKE/
Not a vet but I work at a pet store and we sell imitation rawhide bones called "no hides". They're made with either chicken or beef (they might come in other flavors), they take the meat and form it into the texture of rawhide. Since it's not actual rawhide it's totally digestible, unless your dog has an intolerance to chicken meat. This is just one brand, but all our customers really love it and nobody's ever had a problem with it
Link: https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Animal-No-Hide-Chicken-2-Pack/dp/B0125DS0LU
Ingredients in chicken flavor: Chicken, Chicken Gelatin, Brown Rice Flour, Organic Eggs, Olive Oil, Banana, Bromelain (Pineapple).
Puppy chew toy
These guys? https://www.amazon.com/Earth-Animal-No-Hide-Chicken-2-Pack/dp/B0125DS0LU
Don't use wood chips for cresties, especially if you feed live food in the tank. They aren't very smart and risk impaction.
I'd say coco-fiber for the cresties, and coco-fibre mixed with sphagnum moss for the tokays.
Coco-fibre is probably your best bet. It is the ground coconut husk, small enough for the geckos to pass if ingested.
http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plantation-Quarts-3-Pack/dp/B001CY4ELE
My pup LOOOVES Gorilla Chews and they last him a super long time. Also when it's hot out, I like to put things inside his Kong, like peanut butter, and then freeze them. And then he has a peanut butter popsicle that lasts him for a few hours. (Pro-tip: I like freezing peanut butter the best because when it warms up and unfreezes, it's not going to get all over my carpet or anything.)
It can vary a bit based on what my puppy is going crazy for at the time. She only gets peanut butter stuffed kongs in her crate (I freeze them so it occupies her longer) and she also goes nuts over these jerky treats from Amazon so sometimes I'll tear a stick of it up into pieces and scatter it around her crate for her to find. My dog is super food motivated so she's easy to lure into her crate because she can't resist her favorite treats and things like a frozen stuffed kong occupy her and distract her while I'm actually leaving and for a bit after until she shifts into nap mode.
Meet Terra. She is a red nose pitbull mix. She'll do just about anything for a treat, including "Shut the Front Door". Like Reginald, she is a POWER chewer. When we first got her and hasn't figured that out, she preferred coffee tables D: Then, we discovered elk antlers.. For a power chewer, just make sure you get the right size, or they tend to go through them fast. Terra isn't allowed to have anything but her black Kong and an XL elk antler, and a rope that is kept away for special play time, that would otherwise become shreds around the house in a couple hours. The antlers are expensive, but Terra chews on hers for about 2 hours a day AT LEAST and she's barely made a dent. Congrats on bringing Reginald into your family!
EDIT to add a couple more pictures:
Some of these are probably things you've already thought about, but here is my list.
Please visit /r/puppy101 !
Edit: Forgot Nail Clipps and/or a dremel.
We periodically buy beef femurs (long leg bone) for our dogs. They last for weeks. Our vet told us to only give our dogs weight-bearing cow bones because they're stronger and don't splinter. So, femurs, knee caps, and cow knuckles are all we allow; along with pig ears once in a while. I'd buy them locally, but this is what they look like:
Beef femur
Cow knee caps
Cow knuckles
A Kong filled with frozen peanut butter and dog food is fun, too. Here is a list of safe foods to put into a Kong
Whatever you decide, know that you have to inspect toys and bones frequently, you need to remove dangerous or worn objects, and so on.
My 2 1/2 year old Golden Retriever (now 80 pounds) has a box full of animals, chews, balls and tug ropes. it appears her absolute favorite is
called "Chasing Our Tails Elk Rack Snack" about an 8-9" piece of elk antler. She chews and chews and it seems to never wear down. I purchased it on Amazon in October 2012 for $20. A solid investment giving her hours of enjoyment. I'm including link but if that doesn't work the description should bring it up on Amazon's pages. Good luck - wish I could have a few more dogs around the house but mine absolutely hates other dogs. She loves humans of all sizes and shapes but goes nuts when another dog comes close. It's a bit of a pain as I have to regulate her walk times so minimize exposure to other dogs. I won't even talk about cats, squirrels or rabbits.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053WMOKE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I get them on amazon on a subscribe and save monthly shipment. Here are links to the ones I get:
Large Australian Goat Horns
3 count water buffalo horns
Some dogs also do well with hooves, but unfortunately that hasn't always been my experience. Just the same, these look like a good deal for the price.. Same with himalayan dog chews; they upset my guys' stomachs, but I've had other dogs do well with them in the past.
Good luck!
These things.
Shove it in their mouth, twist to open.
I could really use some of these because my two foster puppies are starting to teeth. T_T The corner of my couch has already gotten some battle scars!
Intro? Check.
Gifted? Check.
I have a dog and two cats. Merlin is the dog, the kitten is Morgana, and the cat is Zelda.
Cat litter is a must in this house.
Uh, our pup doesn't do well with toys, he destroys most, but he loves antlers, they can be expensive but they last awhile and better than greasy bones, or anything like that.
My add on list is for my PUP! You've "met" Lulu, right?! My husky? I think you've complimented her on how beautiful she is. Here are her lovely photos again, just in case:
Lulu!
Lulu again!
Lulu some more!
Lulu Wearing Eyebrows
Final Lulu!
Bonus video:
Dog doing tricks
---
$4.59 stuffed dog toy
$3.49 squeaky tennis ball set
$3.49 car air fresheners (also a dog item, stinky pup coming back from the beach!)
$3.74 dog toy - stuffingless duck (Lulu LOVES her babies, and she whines when she holds them in her mouth!)
$5.22 Cheddar dog treats
$3.99 Pumpkin dog treats
$3.99 Cranberry dog treats
---
28.51 in add on items! THIS IS THE MOST SUPER CONTEST I'VE EVER HEARD OF IN MY ENTIRE LIFE. If I win, I will prepare an academy-award-esque speech and take a video of my dog enjoying all of these items! You are so awesome! I'm so geeked to see who wins and all their superb items!
---
Those Himalaya's of the mind!
Give these a try!
I've had great results with them, and they have the same enzymes as dog toothpaste to break down plaque. They have even removed deposits of tartar on my dogs' teeth. They are rawhide but they have been enzymatically treated to be digestible (at least I've heard)
Hi! I have a big softy German Shepherd named Jack, who also loves to destroy everything. He ate my couch! Yes, while I was at the grocery store, he ate the cushions off of my sectional sofa. He also ate a glass butter dish to get to the butter. Always while I'm at the grocery store! There was blood everywhere. My vet told me he was okay, tongues bleed a lot, and just asked how much butter he ate :| he has gotten to my shoes, my daughter's plastic chairs, lots of stuffed animals, the list goes on and on! He has mellowed out a lot now, but he can go to town on some toys!
I'm not sure how big your dog is, but how about some antlers?
This is an add on, but it has lasted a few months now for Jack. He has the dinosaur pictured.
Jack has a few balls in this style and they have lasted for forever! He loves them! They also have a similar one at target in their bins for around $5. This is another toy made from the same stuff.
He has also had this shark and a few others made like this and they last at least a couple weeks before he starts tearing their limbs off.
I have this or a Kong toy on my wish list for him :)
Happy birthday Lucy! My dog Fenrir will be 3 on July 1st and Tuesday will be 12 in September.
If your dog is an extream chewer like my little pit is you might want to try antlers both of my dogs love them and they actually last for more than a month.
And here is my little dog being a beast trying to get his stick.
If I win please get my dogs something from their WL
Here are my dogs being a beast Ike the Rhodesian Ridgeback/Boxer mix (Can you tell which one he is?) and the runt of the litter Boxer Roxi. They don't mess around when people come around.
Lucy definitely needs this antler for her birthday, I don't think she'd be able to chew threw this bad boy (That's a challenge)
Beautiful dog!
treats long lasting treats:
http://www.amazon.com/Himalayan-Dog-Chew-Large-3-3/dp/B001J9SUHG (i buy the x-large one it last a super long time)
http://www.amazon.com/Great-Dog-Beef-Knuckle-Sourced/dp/B00AZL4HAS
1. I know I could just use reparo, but I'd rather my wine glasses not break in the first place. Plus, there's no putting wine back in a broken glass, and we can't have that! If I drop it, I'll just use wingardium leviosa, and the wine will be saved!
2. Whenever I put my dog on the back of my broomstick, he's always trying to chew off the handle. Maybe this item will fool him.
3. I'm not sure I can afford my own, but I have three friends who might let me borrow theirs. I might have to dust them off a bit.
4. This would help me understand the magic of the mind, and the mind magic behind the magic!
5. I have a feeling my school trunk would just be full of dirty clothes.
6. Cape! I'd really like to find a cape like this guy has. Practical AND fashionable. I think he really epitomizes those two qualities.
Our GSD Pit mix tears through everything but keeps no interest in anything "fake" (nylabones, etc). So we constantly buy her knuckles, antlers, and yak milk bones. Her favorite toys are tennis balls though because she likes to bite down and get the bounce-back from the rubber but she destroys them by cracking them in half within a week. I found these the other day and I'm gonna test them out to see if they work (a reviewer showed a video of their GSD chewing them the same way and they hadn't destroyed them in over 6 months)
Halo Liv a littles
Halo Liv-A-Littles Grain Free Natural Dog Treats & Cat Treats, Freeze Dried Chicken Breast, 2.2-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00027CL5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gmpqDbN3ZRSES
Look into Himalayan dog chews. They're great my dogs go bonkers over them.
https://www.amazon.com/Himalayan-Quality-Natural-Odorless-Enjoying/dp/B071NSY33S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=59868217641&amp;hvadid=274693612548&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9003427&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=1496876359084317001&amp;hvtargid=kwd-302401702078&amp;hydadcr=14557_9765731&amp;keywords=himalayan+dog+treats&amp;qid=1564257029&amp;s=gateway&amp;smid=A20FJJ4JTXVNN5&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A20FJJ4JTXVNN5
This will vary by ferret. The most common thing to use is long grain rice or pinto beans. Both are great, but only if your ferret doesn't eat them!
Other options are playsand, coconut fiber, and "plantation soil". Coconut fiber and plantation soil have worked best in my business. You do have to keep it a bit moist though or it gets too dusty for them.
Along with the recommendations of blocking off his access with gates or sprays (sometimes they work and sometimes they don't), I would recommend a wood chew to see if he just really likes the texture of wood. We bought one for our dog when we moved to a townhouse from a house that had a lot of sticks in the backyard and he loved it.
This is the one we have: https://www.amazon.com/089655-Gorilla-Natural-Large-1Piece/dp/B017D9F70I/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517520880&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=wood+dog+chew
It's really hefty and just kind of shaves off because it's a soft wood. Most dogs who've visited us have chewed on it, and it's still surviving a year and a half later!
Are these the Yak Sticks? I don't have a problem with them being hard since he can chew very hard nylabones...
These and these are both highly motivating for my dog and lower in calories. The jerky is about 4 calories per section (35 calories per stick, according to the company when I emailed them). The Pro Plan chicken is 8 calories per piece and they can easily be split in half.
My dog isn't motivated by Zukes and other training treats.
Hooves! I think they’re cow hooves; I get them at my local independent pet store but I’ve also seen them many other places. Similar to https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KC681BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rG2IBbCQJTDPM
My guy LOVES this bone. He's had it for about 4 month and hasn't even gotten half way through. Plus, it doesn't smell as bad. He's also really into hooves, which smell terrible...
He's so cute!!! If you ever want to give him something to help his teeth, these do wonders. :)
Your best bet is to hit your local pet store and look at the aquarium and terrarium section. The reptile and aquarium sections have sand of varying levels of coarsness/fineness. (reptile's generally use very fine grade sand which works great as sand for that scale as the coarse ones used for aquariums can cause issues with blockages when ingested by lizards) .
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Exo Terra terrarium soil is also pretty good to use for soil.
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Terrarium Moss is great for doing shrubs and folliage.
I buy these at my vet office to help my dog keep her teeth clean. I find they work just as well as brushing her teeth.
https://www.amazon.com/Virbac-Enzymatic-Hygiene-Chews-Large/dp/B001P3NU30?th=1&amp;psc=1
>In terms of not letting her meet people/dogs when we walk, do I simply redirect her or cross the street?
Just don't let her meet them. I know, it sounds so simple.
Refocus her just like you would with any reactive dog, or undesired behavior generally. You want to click/treat and begin to refocus her as soon as possible, ideally before she does the undesired behavior. Once she does the undesired behavior, she needs to do something "good" for another treat so she does not associate the reward with the undesired behavior. The “good thing” is the SIT or LOOK/WATCH I mentioned in the other comment.
The key is to reinforce the good behavior so she knows that this is what to do, and meeting people is not what we do.
Don't cross the street, act normal.
>Don’t want my pup to get too chunky haha
As for treats, it really depends on the dog and what the dog likes. Some dogs hate crunchy treats while others will only take crunchy treats. It's important that the treats are small, or that you can make them small. There are a lot of treats involved, so smaller is better.
Some pet stores, especially smaller chains or non-chains, have treat samples. These are small bags so you can find out what your dog likes and what works best for her.
To keep your dog from getting too big, cut her dry food (or wet food, whatever you use) down to 1/4 the regular serving at mealtimes.
Supplement the reduced food at meals with vegetables mixed into the food, this way she feels fuller. You want her to get total of half her current serving of food at meals. I know this seems like a drastic cut, but she will get a lot of treats to make up for it.
Whenever I've cut food less than this (such as to 1/2 current dry food plus vegetables it was not enough).
If she currently gets 1 cup of kibble per meal, she would now get a total of 1/2 cup of food per meal, broken down as follow:
If she seems to be loosing weight, you can add back in some dry food during meals.
Vegetables
Frozen green beans softened in water, or canned green beans if they are canned only in water.
If she won't eat the green beans try canned carrots, do not use raw carrots since they can be tough on her stomach, canned carrots are already soft because of the water.
>I just bought a clicker
Buy more than 1 clicker, they get lost fast. Amazon usually has packs of 4 or 5 for less than 10 dollars.
I also suggest a good treat pouch, just do a search on Amazon for "dog treat pouch" or "dog training pouch" and find one you like. There are a lot of them in different sizes, some have their own belt, others clip onto a belt, have a shoulder strap, or do all 3. I suggest finding one that you can wear at least 2 of those 3 ways (all 3 is best) to find out which is most comfortable for you. I would keep a clicker in the treat pouch, so you always have it. Like I said, they get lost fast.
I haven't noticed a difference between brands, so I just look for the cheapest. The antlers from Grateful Shed are the cheapest I've found, but I've also tried Newt's as well.
My dog does seem to prefer deer antlers to Elk though. You may have to try both to see if your dog has a preference. The one you linked to is Elk, and the two I've linked are both deer.
You need to buy this RIGHT NOW because it's that time of year when hot tea (or coffee, or cocoa) is PERFECT!! And I need this because I have 3 dogs that always need a distraction!!
It's exactly what it looks like. A log for the dog. It's a chew.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D9F70I/
We recently bought these chew things for our pup to try: Virbac C.E.T. Enzymatic Oral Hygiene... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P3NU30?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Have to say, they smell a bit like medicine because of the enzymes, we only gave one so far to try. However, she’s been chewing on the one for about three weeks now, so they seem to last and should be good for teeth. Our vet recommended as a teeth cleaning alternative, so we shall see. Hope this helps :)
Arya would eat this for days
here's some pictures she's a very pretty dog
Thanks guys, on that page i found the Exo Terra ones for 3pack=6$ that will show up tomorrow so wish me luck!
https://smile.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plantation-Quarts-3-Pack/dp/B001CY4ELE/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Eco-Earth+coco+coir&qid=1570065921&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sr=8-3
I chose exo as I found exo, many had the title "eco earth" with different manf, havent been to a pet store in years and closest i know of its pets mart, since Exo Terra Plantation Soil was listed at $6 for a 3pack i figured its best to get exactly what you guys posted. I have 3 hours to order if anyone thinks Exo Terra Plantation Soil is not the best option for a first time bulk grower. But thank for the info! Much appreciated.
Himalayan Gold Yak Dog Chews. While they're expensive, they last my dog about 3 hours. I usually take it from her after an hour or so though because it's pretty dense.
It's just milk, lime juice and salt and somehow it is a rock! She will just gnaw for hours straight if I let her.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071NSY33S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/Wellness-Natural-Training-Treats-3-Ounce/dp/B001HBBQKY
Wellness is a great brand, has good ingredients (sweet potato, carrots, apples) and my puppy likes them. Only 4kCal per treat and I usually split them for training (they're kind of partitioned to do this easily).
I've found that I need to switch around treats frequently, though, to keep them of any value. He also has liver jerky, liver loaf, Charki Puffs (https://www.amazon.com/Diggin-Your-Dog-Charki-Amazing/dp/B00AO1633S/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480950067&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=charki+puffs), and I like BarkBox because he gets a couple of new treats each month that can be cycled in and out.
I got it from my local mom and pop pet store. It is available on amazon though ... https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Reptile-Cave-Medium/dp/B001F3YJ9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481306407&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lizard+hide
https://www.amazon.com/Natural-Cow-Hooves-Dogs-Pack/dp/B00KC681BW
Things you need to know about your husky:
Your puppy is disgustingly adorable. Seriously one of the cutest little holy terrors I've ever seen (and I say this fondly, because my adorable husky was a monster as a puppy). I hope you form a bond as strong as mine and Keno's, and that you enrich each other's lives!
These only have one ingredient, chicken.
I got this wood chew for my golden who is obsessed with sticks.... he is a power chewer and he loves it.
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Plantation-Quarts-3-Pack/dp/B001CY4ELE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Exo+Terra+Plantation+Soil%2C+8+Quarts%2C+3-Pack&amp;qid=1555796983&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2
This is a good option on Amazon. But you can find any really, that's Amazon's best choice. Kiwi is about 1 - 1.5 years old. We took her in ♡ so we're not 100% sure.
$3.14!
Food thermometer
Also: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0125DS0LU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_9MBcBbM39MWX3
The whole thing about owning a pit bull is knowing that they are aggressive by nature. You're supposed to be prepared for them to get in a fight. A pit bull owner should always carry a [break stick] (https://www.amazon.com/The-K-9-Center-Break-Stick/dp/B004RU81VY) of some form, to break up a fight and to not get yourself injured. I am not saying this was your fault as a bad dog owner, but what I am saying is it could have been prevented in numerous ways.
Haven't seen anyone say this here yet and it's been a life-saver for me: Lacrosse Balls. They are a hard rubbery material that they can't destroy. Mine love theirs. She was always a tennis ball freak, but tore them apart in seconds. Also, Elk Antler is expensive but lasts a long time and is healthier for your dog than bones.
Edit: I've also had good luck with Jolly Balls for a good soccer/basketball sized toy. They are made of a real tough material, but are also kind of bouncy. I've had the same one for about 3 years now with no holes.
That’s pricey. I get four for $20 USD.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NSY33S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hmm maybe I'll have to give Digesteeze a try. We're always looking for new things to let her chew on!
Also, we have been using these bully sticks that I found on Amazon. They're a little pricey, but they last a while (depending on how often you give them to your pup).
It all depends I think the way that this company does it is very smart.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H2ZS5VM/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1457794505&amp;sr=8-7&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=Dog+treats+Jerky
Hey there,
so I know you posted this a while ago but if your dog doesn't seem interested in walking maybe you need something to get them more excited like treats or a toy that they will only get during their walks. I think maybe a good special treat could be these. I would also recommend a gentle leader like this one and both are relatively affordable on amazon. It doesn't hurt them and you don't risk having your puppy choking itself. Hope this helped!
This is probably the real reason. The info link seems like pure conjecture. Note the end:
> Do your own experiment, throw your dog a bone or two, (preferably beef, don’t feed your dog chicken bones) and see if it gives you a taste of bit of childhood nostalgia for white dog poop.
People still feed bones to their dogs. Some people feed their dogs bones all the time. My dogs each get something like this every week, sometimes more (i.e. they always have a bone to chew on). I've never once seen white dog poop in the yard unless it was sun-bleached from being there for a long time.