Best drain cleaners & pumps according to redditors
We found 1,918 Reddit comments discussing the best drain cleaners & pumps. We ranked the 961 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Cobra Products 00412BL Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool
Use it to clear clogged and slow-running drainsQuick and easy application by simply inserting and removing from drainAn alternative to harsh drain-clearing chemicalsDisposable after each useFeatures durable poly construction
2. Allied Precision The Premier Line 742G Bucket Water Heater, Electric Immersion Heating Element Heats 5 Gallons of Water in Minutes with Auto Shutoff, Submersible Design is Heavy Duty and Portable 120V
HEAT 5 GALLONS OF WATER IN JUST MINUTES. Drop the portable bucket heater into water and it automatically starts working. While immersed, it will heat continuously past 150 degrees F and towards boiling, depending on the volume of the water and the container's insulation.AUTOMATICALLY SHUTS OFF TO PR...
3. Vastar 3 Pack 19.6 Inch Drain Snake Hair Drain Clog Remover Cleaning Tool
3 pack of plastic plumbing snake drain auger19. 6" flexible barbed wand can easily grab & remove clustered hair, food, garbage, and other obstructions easilySoft enough to bend in many kinds of strainers and pipes, great for kitchen, bathroom & utility sinks, bathtubs and showersGreat drain tool for...
4. Pump for 16 oz. Jar
Plastic pump for 16 oz Beeswax Lotion and Aloe Vera Lotion jarEliminates WasteFits most 16 oz jars with sizes of 3.5" x 3.5"
5. bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM
Circulation pump is non-self-priming pump. Max Flow Rate: 2.1GPM, Max Discharge Head: 9.8ft1/2" Male thread on the pump. The OD of the brass coupler is 10mm. Comes with a power adapterPower source: DC 12V(POWER ADAPTER INCLUDED), Rated current: 0.7A, Brushless Motor, Low noise: 30db at 1 metre, Serv...
6. Superior Pump 91250 Utility Pump, 1/4 HP, Black
1/4 HP Utility pump moves up to 1,800 gallons per hour; pump will lift water up to 25' of vertical heightTough thermoplastic construction; 10' cord length1-1/4 inch NPT discharge for high capacity pumping; includes 3/4 inch garden hose adapterRemovable suction screen and handles up to 1/8 inch solid...
7. JOKARI JKRI009 Whale Faucet Fountain
One step installation on standard faucetsEliminate paper cupsSave money and waterMake brushing fun for kidsPatented designDoes not interfere with normal faucet use
8. Watts Premier Instant Hot Water Recirculating Pump System with Built-In Timer
WATTS RECIRCULATING HOT WATER PUMP: Provides hot water at every faucet or shower when needed, eliminating wasted water, 0.5 inches bypass value.BEST SELLING RECIRCULATING SYSTEM: Conserve up to 15,000 gallons of water per year. Save up to 10% of your water bill. It costs only $0.05 per day to operat...
9. Cobra Products Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool, 1-Pack
Unclogs sink, shower and bathtub drainsNo bulky equipmentNo chemicals requiredEnvironmentally safe way to clear clogged and slow running drainsDesigned, machined and assembled in the USA
10. Travel Immersion Water Heater - Dual Voltage
Whats In The Box: Immersion Heater, 1 Breathable Cloth Bag, 1 White Moisture absorbing desiccant, 1 Travelers Packing Checklist and 1 Adapter Country GuideDimensions of Immersion Heater 5" and Weight 5 ozHeating immersion 125 watt coil quickly heats up waterAutomatic dual 120/240 voltage for worldwi...
11. RamPro 36 Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool, Extra Long Retractable Claw Retriever Stick, Snake & Cable Aid, Use to Grab Trash & a Drain Auger to Unclog Hair from Drains, Sink, Toilet & Clean Dryer Vents
Ram-Pro lightweight X-Long Extendable & retractable narrow telescopic grabber arm rod, hair catcher, and trash picker for long range bended pick-ups into the hardest corners, areas, angels & channels, with maximum mechanical control.SPECS: 3” Red Grip - 2-1/2” Handle Spring - 32 inch Spring Load...
12. General Pipe Cleaners R-25SM Spin Thru Drain Auger with 1/4-Inch by 25-Feet Cable
R-25SM Spin-Thru is an easy to use, versatile and economical hand driven drain cleaner for 1 1/4 to 2" drains.Convenient 'T' Grip Handle and Drive Knob for easy turning, and full sized Thumb Screw Chuck to control the cable.Comes complete with 25 feet by 1/4"" General Pipe Cleaners cable designed fo...
13. Camco (22484) Water Bandit -Connects Your Standard Water Hose To Various Water Sources - Lead Free
Connects a hose to unthreaded faucets or those with stripped threads3 1/4 inch long and attaches to any standard size faucetStop wasting water due to poor connectionsNot intended for use under pressureCompliant with all federal and state level low lead laws. CSA low lead content certified to NSF/ANS...
14. Frost King FC1 Outdoor Foam Faucet Cover, Oval
The product is manufactured in ChinaThe product is highly durable and easy to useEasy installation and easy handlingThe product is manufactured in ChinaEasy installation and easy handlingProtects outdoor faucets from extreme temperatures5/8-inch expanded polystyrene shellProtects outdoor faucets fro...
15. Sioux Chief Mfg 660-H 3/4-Inch Female Swivel Hose Thread by 3/4-Inch Male Hose Thread Mini Rester
Water hammer arrester teeInstall on washing machine supply valves or directly to washing machine tub or shower tee3/4-Inch female swivel hose thread connection3/4-Inch male hose thread connectionSystems which exceed 60 PSI (414kPa) static pressure shall be installed with a pressure reducing valve up...
16. DANCO Waterproof Silicone Faucet Grease | Silicone Sealant | Plumbers valve Grease for O-rings | 0.5 oz. | 1-Pack (88693)
PLUMBERS FAUCET AND VALVE GREASE Ideal for lubricating faucet stems valves and cartridges when repairing a leaky faucetLUBRICANT GREASE Contains high raw silicone content making it better for long term lubricant hold & helps hard-turning faucets work smoothlyNSF 61 APPROVED designed for use as a wat...
17. KES Shut Off Valve Brass Shower Head Valve with Handle Lever G1/2 Water Flow Control Valve Regulator Chrome, K1140B-CH
BRASS BODY: Brass body construction provides much higher performance (high heat-resistance and pressure-resistance) and durability than plastic ones. It can serve many years without leakage.HIGHLY-RELIABLE CARTRIDGE: Advanced leakproof ceramic cartridge can be operated up to 200 000 times switching ...
18. Dolphin Water Pump - BPA-Free Manual Drinking Water Pump - Fits Most 5-6 Gallon Water Coolers
Fits mostly all 5 or 6 gallon bottlesDispenses as quickly or slowly as you would likeCleaning Kit provided, no batteries neededManufactured with drinking water quality plasticDoes NOT fit: Plastic water bottles with 53mm caps
19. Liberty Pumps SJ10 SumpJet Water Powered Back-Up Pump, GRAY
Made In AmericaMECHANICAL COMPONENTSCommercial Brand: LibertyPackage Dimensions: 18. 0" L x 18. 0" W x 21. 0" H
20. Basepump RB750 Water Powered Backup Sump Pump with Water Alarm
Extremely reliable, very powerful, water powered backup sump pump systemNo battery to wear out or maintain; no charger to plug in or monitor.Includes battery powered high water ALARMWorks with Radon Sealed systems.Mounted on the ceiling, high above the sump, clean and dry.
What is your solution for the shower hair? I've just been draino blasting it when it gets clogged.
Edit: Wow I have a lot of replies!
Here are the top suggestions:
Less than $5 on Amazon.
I don't know if you Dutchies have Amazon, but in the future, use a drain snake when you notice the douche cabin isn't draining as well. There is absolute no need to use sink unclogger on hair and conditioner. Using the snake will keep the clog from getting really bad.
Something like this has been around forever, I had one as a kid. It works great.
Here you are. Years ago Chick-fil-A gave away something like this in their kid meals. We used it for years. These things are honestly pretty handy.
This fits on the tub nicely, and you don't have to worry about purchasing extra bottles, or a messy transfer.
I suggest this:
3 or 4 bucks at a hardware store. In/out and the drain is clear, 10 seconds. No fishing around with a coat hanger. Reaches way the hell farther down around corners than you can with a coat hanger.
Here's a pump top on Amazon you screw on the Cerave tub.
One of these should do the trick
if you’re interested in buying one
You can get a Zip-It which does the same thing for about $2.50 at Lowes or Home Depot. It is disposable, though, not reusable.
Zip-it's ... a plastic thing that goes down the drain and pulls up the hair. All it is that's clogging your drain is hair, and this avoids putting very harsh chemicals down your sink (which is bad for your plumbing as well as the environment!)
I've found them a lot cheaper than this, but this is the product: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204
And even though it says it can't be reused, it totally can. Eventually the little teeth fall off and you have to get a new one but you can get like 20 uses out of 'em, or more if you just pull the hair off of them when you're done using them.
Buy a 5 dollar Zip product at your favorite discount store. You can just rinse and reuse for a long time and they work great for long hair removal. Amazon
So cheap, and work so well.
Getting a timer, might work. This is what I use for my water solution for plants.
Mini Resistor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5MQNM
Works perfectly and I never have to adjust it unless a week long rain is in the forecast.
Drain fly larva. As an aquarium enthusiast, I see these all the time. In your case your drain is nasty and needs to be cleaned. I suggest one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_UtWAyb9N0NNHQ
Chemically killing them will work, but if the drain is still mucked up another fly will lay eggs eventually.
Would one of these work?
The only gadget like thing i have that people might not know about, and im sure some people here would, is a water bandit.
Ditch the toothbrush, use a drain zipper.
Hot Water Recirculation Pump
It's worth it.
You need one of these. It will keep the water hot at a distant tap. It also cuts down on wasted energy heating water that eventually just get cold anyway. Insulating the hot water supply line to the bathroom will help too.
When I wash my face, water runs down my arms, it splashes out of the sink and it goes everywhere. I laid towels around the basin, stood on a bath mat... And I was still getting water everywhere. Which means eventually, my bathroom cabinet was going to warp or the subfloor would get damaged. (Which is actually a problem we already have had, from the previous owner having the same problem.)
This turns out to be an engineering problem. My face is above the faucet because I'm taller than the sink. The water flows downwards because the faucet points downwards. I have to scoop water in my hands upwards to my face, but my hands are not great scoops, and most of the leakage/splashing is draining down my forearms. By redirecting the water, I can keep my hands mostly out of the equation and limit the splash/leakage.
My sibling has a Jokari Whale Faucet Fountain for my niblings when they're brushing their teeth. It just slips onto the faucet and creates a bubbler. It tolerates warm water well, comes off easily -- very useful for shared spaces -- and is easy to clean. I turn on the faucet, then just lean my face into the stream to rinse.
And for six bucks, I no longer have water everywhere!
Every home needs a Zip-It in every bathroom.
Sometimes I find brushing my hair before I shower helps get rid of a few loose hairs which saves my drain from getting clogged as fast. I also keep a trash can right next to the shower so as hair comes loose in the shower I can just put it in the trash instead of down the drain. (this really only works well if you have long hair. When my hair was short it was pretty much impossible to catch it and toss it)
If you're able to remove the drain plug then a plastic zipper style drain cleaner works amazing. I used to buy Drano and it took forever and never really cleaned the drain very well plus it's not very good for your pipes. The zipper cleaner thing physically pulls out all the hair which is faster and more effective than trying to slowly dissolve it. I buy them for cheap from my local hardware store in the plumbing section.
If you can't remove the drain plug then covering the drain with a drain hair catcher works pretty good at catching hairs and drastically slowing down the time it takes to clog the drain. Some of them stick to the tub, some of them just sit on the top of the drain, some are reusable, some are disposable. Depends what your preference is but they work pretty good too and especially on drains that have a plug that is hard to remove.
It's not just about recycling, though. The three Rs are in order: Reduce, reuse, recycle! Recycling is important but it's way better to not make waste in the first place.
Another idea might be something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APU2Y8Q
They go on top of those big multi-gallon jugs that you can either refill with tap or your local grocery store might have a filtered water refill station.
What you want is something like this. I know/knew a guy who lived out of one of these and used it like a mini-rv.
He gutted the back and installed a bunk bed, shower, kitchen with fridge/freezer and some general storage.
If you have somewhere you can park it and can make use of some of the surrounding land you can do a few neat things.
1: use a compost style toilet. Build a compost bin and all your organic waste (this includes human waste ie: poop) goes into the compost bin.
This only leaves plastic and metal trash that can be recycled. So you won't need to pay for trash service or deal with sewage.
If you don't have room to build a shower in your van/truck you can build a small outdoor shower. Anything from a $10 solar shower bag from wal-mart to a 5 gallon bucket of water heated with a portable plugin water heater. You can buy those at any farm & tractor supply type stores.
They heat up fast too, 5-10 minutes. You can also use this method to heat water for doing your dishes too.
For that you'll want 3 plastic tubs from wal-mart ($1-2 apiece) Use one for hot soapy water and 2 others with clean water for rinsing. Wash, prerinse, rinse.
For food, your cheapest bet is dry/canned goods. Or you can get a small fridge or freezer and run it off a battery and charge the battery up once or twice per day.
For cooking you can get gas powered stuff and cook outside or electric portable stuff (toaster oven, microwave, hot plate) and just turn your vehicle on when cooking.
Get one of these - Zip-It plastic drain cleaning tool. Costs about 3 dollars; pulls this crap out of the drain really easily so you use it more often which prevents worse stuff.
Or just get a standard tank and one of these:
Watts 500800 Instant Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer, Easy to Install https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E78XHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kdwDbZR6E70C
Works quite well for me. I set it up to a smart home plug so it is only running when someone is home.
I bought one of these for my CeraVe Cream and it fits perfectly! Highly recommended!
Alternatively, you can get yourself a lid pump for your tub! Never have to open your tub again after the one time, and then you can just switch to the next one without much fuss or contamination.
Just buy a Zip-It (or the generic version). These work really well on tubs and showers for me.
I bought this pump for my Cerave jar so I don't have to stick my fingers in off of Amazon.
Well, there are a number of 16 oz jar lid pumps on Amazon. I just ordered this one to see if it fits the CeraVe jar. if it does, I'll report back. If not, I'll probably scavenge the pump, drill a hole in the CeraVe jar lid and stick it in there anyway. But it would be nice if it actually fit without having to do that!
Since my boyfriend has now discovered my jar and has started using it (how does he manage to always find my stuff?) I now have concerns about its hygiene.
Can you use a retractable claw? One like this: https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Grabber-Retractable-Retriever/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537415875&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=snake+claw+tool&amp;psc=1
I bought this thing on a lark. It's a bendable plastic strip with little teeth to catch on debris. You use it like a snake. It actually works really well to get hair out of there before there's a clog. It's absolutely disgusting, but it does pull lots of hair and other stuff out of the drain.
Edit: product says it's disposable, but I've used the same one for a year and a half; you just have to be willing to clean it after you're done using it.
You guys need a hot water recirculating system. Easy to install and not too expensive.
Now its up to you to figure out your ethical ground, but you can buy the tool you need to use those faucets.
You can also buy a thing called a water bandit that lets you hook up a length of hose to any faucet, even unthreaded. I will use it in gas station bathrooms to fill an aquatainer (with permission).
Or you can buy arrestors already made for this situation that look like this https://www.amazon.ca/Sioux-Chief-660-H-4-Inch-Female/dp/B000H5MQNM
You got city water???? Water powered backup pump!!!!!
Some use like 1 gallon of water to push 2 gallons out.
I have a battery back up one. This is my next purchase. Batteries can fail or die. Your city water will always be on.
However for the sewage I wouldn't use your below grade pumping during an outage.
I shut off the water going to the outside hose bibs and cover them with one of those styrofoam covers. The screen in the front door is replaced with the glass insert and I make sure all of the windows are shut tight and locked. The winter equipment is swapped with the summer stuff in the shed, and that's about it.
We've been camping with our daughter since she was one. The only "toys" we take are a sand bucket, a toy shovel, a ball and bubbles.
We try to arrive early so we can pick a good campsite. We try to find one where we can use our car as a barricade between our campsite and the road, and one that also has open space behind the designated "campsite". Here are a few pictures of what I mean.
In this picture you can see I kind of parallel parked instead of pulling straight in, lined up with the road, so there is a very obvious line. "Don't go past the car.". (For clarification, the kiddo is in the tent with Dad, and I stepped into the "open area" for a second just to capture this picture. No fires left unattended. Promise.).
When we first took her camping we held her hand close enough to feel the warmth, and told her "This is hot, and you should not touch it. If you do it will hurt.". She helps me cook and is familiar with hot food and the hot stove/oven, so she understand pretty quickly. We also emphasize not running near the fireplace, and that rule seems to have stuck well with her.
In this picture you can see the benefits of the bucket/shovel combo. Our site was actually slanted and a lot of rocks had gone outside of the timber bounds, so we had her hauling rocks back into the campsite the whole time. Leave things better than you found them, eh? She added sticks and called it a tree house. I used the sticks as kindling that night. You can also see why I picked this spot - look at that open play area behind our campsite!
We use a toddler cot for our daughter, and have since she was very young (she's three now). My last suggestions are to have a flashlight just for them, and if they are past the "everything is food" phase, bring glow bracelets. We put one on each limb after dark so that she is easier to see.
We checked out library books about camping before going, and watched a Barney episode about it. That seemed to help, as she knew what to expect and was excited about it.
Plan food, but have a back-up method. It's pretty miserable when you plan on roasting hotdogs, but it's raining and it's taking longer than expected to start the fire and your toddler is pitching a fit. We always take granola bars, those pre-made PB&J frozen sandwiches, and a little stove set up - just in case the fire doesn't work out.
This next bit is not necessary, but it really nice for multiple night stays: We have this 5-gallon jug hand-pump. We take an empty bottle, fill it with potable water at the site, then use it for everything from drinking to hand washing and cooking. Kids are messy and this set-up makes camping a lot more enjoyable for us.
Lastly: commit, but don't over commit. Never get to the point where you are sacrificing sanity for the sake of "fun", and don't spoil the fun for others. During the learning-period we did have to bail once, as it was just becoming too miserable for any one to enjoy.
Good luck, have fun! Let me know if you have any more questions. :)
May I recommend a completely different solution not involving a complicated regimen of chemicals? Go down to your nearest hardware store and buy a plastic hair snake for a couple of dollars.
Have you tried pre-heating your french press with some additional boiling water so it doesn't cool so fast? You could also wrap it in a towel, insulating foam, etc..
I haven't looked, but I assume you can find vacuum-insulated french presses.
Another possibility is one of those submersible water heaters, but it might be tricky to hold a good temperature.
you need a digital temp controller ( here ), a 1000watt horse trough heater ( here ) and a submersible pump ( here ).
These Zip-It drain cleaners work wonders, and the crap it pulls out is absolutely vile. No need to use nasty caustic chemicals.
I agree, I've used this thicker silicone grease for all my eyedropper conversions.
I've never had any success using draino or whatever on my stand up shower. I bought one of these and need to use it every 4-6 months to remove a clump of hair. Works great.
>My husband already checked to see if there was hair clogging the shower drain and there wasn't, and he's tried to unclog the toilet multiple times.
What is your husband using to try and unclog the toilet? If the answer is a plunger, you should go purchase a plumber snake/auger. These can be purchased at most big box tool retail stores and aren't particularly expensive, especially in comparison to a plumbing bill.
If that fails, call the plumber. What they're suggesting would definitely fix the problem, but so might spending a fraction of the cost, purchasing a tool you'll be able to use in the future, and learning a valuable (and pretty simple) homeowner's skill.
Buy most of the tools as you need them. If its something you'd only use for one project save your money and borrow the tool. Please return the tool promptly and clean.
Person above seemed to have good luck with this type of little plastic auger/snake (assuming possible hair clog). Course they're only 20".
It's why these are invaluable.
Looks like the first reviewer on Amazon did exactly what you're doing.
Before paying someone to come out, try using a zip it. It's cheap and could get all of the junk out very easily.
Have you ever seen one of these? They work really great at pulling hair up out of the tub drain, even if there isn't a clog. Being proactive and all that shit.
Looks like it works on the same principle as the Zip-It Drain cleaner
Stop right there.
You can also find it in home depot. There is no need to take off the drain. I am guessing someone in your house has long hair. You will need to do this often.
You can thank me later.
Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BO9204/
I've had issues with recurring drain clogs at the last two rentals I've lived in. Once or twice a month, I'd run to Wal-Mart and buy a jug or two of the six-dollar Gel/Foamer/Whatever product that Drano recommends for recurring clogs, in an effort to avoid having to take showers while standing in a three-inch pool of filth. And then, after googling around for awhile, I found this product--which is available at Wal-Mart for about three bucks. Used it on every drain in my house, nearly puked in amazement at the toxic mess that it managed to yank out of my pipes, and it's been now been three years since I've had any problem whatsoever.
We use one of these to remove the shower drain wookiees at our house.
Use a water bandit
Or this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EDOSKG
Also depending on what the faucet actually is like the may be a part of it that can be temporarily detached to reveal a part that is threaded after all.
There are multiple reasons why a house would have a pump in the basement.
A sump pump is an open topped, clearwater device used generally for removing rainwater or groundwater from a basement.
An ejector pump is an entirely different device that is sealed, vented, incorporated into the plumbing system, and used for removing below-grade wastewater from a basement.
A sump pump gives you a lot of options as to the how and where, and the plumbing code does not really refer to how you manage water on your property if you're not tying into the plumbing system. Personally, I don't like to see emergency sump pumps discharging into a sewer, as a back-up could cause a flood in the basement, and a clogged (or flooded) line can prevent the pump from removing water when needed.
I prefer to see a sump pump leading to a water retention device such as a dry-well, cistern or leaching ring, so long as the device is not itself prone to flooding. Another option would be leading the discharge end to an actual down-hill area that can reliably accept the discharge.
Don't assume that the presence of a pump is an indicator of a bad situation. I don't like having floor drains that lead to the sewer system in finished basements, and usually try to outfit mechanical rooms (with RPZ's, boilers, water heaters and AC units that are prone to water discharge) with pumps and water alarms rather than floor drains.
Finally, if you're prone to power outages that would render an emergency pump inoperable, consider a water-powered pump like:
This pump has some warnings to consider with it. If you have an electric well pump supplying your domestic water pressure, a power outage would knock that out as well and render the device inoperable. This device wastes a tremendous amount of water and is frankly the last option to employ for that reason. The device has the potential to introduce a high degree of hazard to a plumbing system; an RPZ must be installed on the water service to the home (to protect the municipal water supply) and I would want either an RPZ or a double check valve assembly with an intermediate atmospheric vent at the device to protect the occupants of the home from poisoning. These devices are known to generate an intense water hammer when closing and would require a piped in water hammer arrestor upstream of the device. Finally, don't forget to leave this device in an accessible area.
I personally believe that all basements are giant bathtubs just waiting to be filled. Make sure that your tub has a drain :-)
This is exactly what a sump pump is suppose to do. This will happen when it rains and probably a few days after as all the water that has soaked into the ground makes its way to the sump pump. As a back up you may want to look into either a battery backup pump or a water activated one. https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
i use a recirculating sump pump to recirculate cold water thru a pre-chiller and then into my chiller. it works well. granted, I make 12 gallon batches, so this may be overkill for 5 gallons...
Also, I'll make huge chunks of ice a few days prior to keep my water cold. I'll then fill up a rubbermade bin and put my water, ice and pump in that.
i use this pump
If this is just a temporary situation, I get the feeling that it is, you can try to attach a hose to the shower/faucet to fill up whatever tub you come up with and then use a "sump pump" to drain it into the shower drain (https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-Thermoplastic-Submersible-91250/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519395090&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=submersible+pump)
Edit: Also a shower seat may be the safest option (https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Bathroom-Swivel-Locking-Mechanism/dp/B01NAND3IR/ref=sr_1_15_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519395407&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=bath+edge+seat)
I can't find the original thread right now, but someone recommended this for this issue: https://www.amazon.com/JOKARI-Jokari-Whale-Faucet-Fountain/dp/B0019TUKV0
I bought something like this for my Cetaphil tub. If my mom ever did that i would very very nicely tell her she could keep the lotion and then buy myself a new one and keep it in my room.
Did you remove the P trap (under the sink) and check it?
Also have you tried a
Vastar 19.6 Snake Hair Drain Clog Remover Cleaning Tool, 19.6 Inch, Orange, 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kAHuDbJFRFX0M
Those robobrews are super popular. I have a Mash and Boil, and I know a few people who own a Grainfather.
Or you could buy an induction heater and use equipment you already have. There's no wrong answer. Also, I got this pump for cheap and it works great for recirculating the mash or moving wort to a fermenter.
You're wrong. The average cost of electricity is ~$0.11/kWh. 1000w is enough to boil three gallons of water very quickly, just google 'water boilers 1000w: http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-Premier-742G-Bucket-Heater/dp/B000BDB4UG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1356817956&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=Bucket+Water+Heater . The true cost of the extra cup of coffee is a tiny speck of that, as we are calculating just the increased energy usage vs normal coffee heating, so we're talking maybe a penny's cost for each pot of coffee.
A small coffee at McDonalds costs is $0.99 before tax.
One extra cup would greatly offset the cost of heating a pot. That's a 900% return on that investment. That's insanely huge, and now you see why McDonald's did it.
On top of that McDonalds sells ~1 billion cups of coffee a year (http://scheingrosslaw.com/mcdonalds-coffee-lawsuit/). A pot of coffee makes ~12 cups of cofee. That's a 8% increase in coffee sales with a 0% increase in food cost. That's 80 million cups of coffee that cost McDonald's less than a penny each to produce.
You can see very easily now, why McDonald's would say 'fuck you lady'
Typically the electric stoves dont have enough power to do a full boil. You can supplement the power of your stove with an additional heating element like a heat stick(plenty of DIY instructions floating around), or one of these.
I would go with this but same thought... I have two and they work like a charm every time.
Get a Zip-It! I've had one for years. It's cheap, effective, and also works to pull hair clogs out from my vacuum cleaner without having to take it all apart.
P.S. I've used the same one for years, you don't need to discard it after each use.
I use a submersible utility pump similar to this one to pump water through my IC. Definitely has a much high flow rate than your standard pond pump.
If you have city water, a better and more reliable option is having a water powered backup sump pump. It requires no electricity and works by using the pressure in your water lines. I find this to be a better and more reliable option because battery backups have two main issues: sometimes the batteries go bad, happened to my father, he had a battery backup that hadn't been used in years, and when it was finally needed, the battery was dead and we were down there bailing out the basement using buckets. The other reason I recommend water powered backup sump is in the case of extended power outages. After the first fiasco, my dad installed the water powered backup sump, which was the best thing he could have done, because a year later we got hit with Hurricane Sandy and wound up without power for 2 weeks. A battery backup would not have lasted long enough to keep the sump running that long, but the water powered backup doesn't need any electricity, so it didn't matter, it kept the basement dry the whole time. They aren't that expensive, nor are they that difficult to install, the only requirement is that you are on city water and not a well.
This is the one we have: https://www.amazon.com/Liberty-Pumps-SJ10-Discharge-SumpJet/dp/B0013H94MO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537969458&sr=8-3&keywords=water+powered+sump+pump
Pump only, but they finally sell it with a pump now
you could easily put a valve in the line in between the showerhead spigot and the faucet.
Something like this
I got these. I just try to remember to use them every once in a while so it doesn't have a chance to build up. I lose hair in massive amounts lol
In college, I roomed with two girls for a couple of years. I'm a guy and I don't have any sisters, so I had no idea how much trouble girl hair can be in a home (I'm sure men shed the same amount, but it's usually shorter, obviously).
Anyway, long story short, I still gag at the thought of my experiences pulling wet, smelly hair balls out of drains with one of these things
Those chemicals are terrible for your pipes. Use this the next time. They work great and won't cause any damage.
Is there any way to tell is this pump is safe to recirculate wort and whirlpool? Temps seem fine, just don't want any issue with the plastic not being food safe
I did a 100 day backpacking trip around the world with a North Face Backtrack 50. It was small enough to be a carry on. Some advice others have mentioned here, first aid kit is very important, along with copies of your passport and some passport photos just in case. You should also have photocopies of your credit cards and their 1-800 number if you're bring them along. A lock to keep your belongings safe. Travelers duct tape is also useful. They're small and doesn't take up space but very handy to have. If you'll be doing laundry yourself without a machine, a sink stopper and cloths line are useful too. Eating utensils are also useful like this immersion heater, or fold up cups etc.
Wardrobe is fine, though it's better to use synthetic fabrics for t-shirts and such since it dries faster and doesn't wrinkle like cotton does when you shove it into a bag. Also to not stand out as much as a tourist, all your cloths should also match. Greys and browns work well with everything should you decide to wear the same cloths a few days in a row. If you're paranoid about getting robbed, a money belt is also good. If you get past the dorkyness of it's wonderful. I had most my stuff in it while keeping some money in my pockets. You don't want to be whipping the belt out for every purchase. That's all I can think of at the moment. If i come up with more I'll edit this comment.
I'll start with the electrical device, it's a heat stick. You can build one yourself, but I opted to buy one from Amazon. You stick it in the wort and plug it in and it adds some direct heat to help boil faster. It makes a night and day difference in the speed it takes to get to boil.
I made the insulating jackets myself out of some Reflectix and Foil Tape. I can't really tell you how well it's doing with 10.5gal pot since I wrapped it right away so I don't have any good before/after there, but with my 5 gallon pot it allowed me to get to boil a couple minutes faster and also allowed the pot to hold the boil on its own, meaning I could take the heatstick out once it got boiling.
Another thing you can't see in the picture, is the 8" element is a canning element, which is a bit higher wattage than my regular 8" element so it burns a bit hotter, which helps with boiling.
I don't know if you'll be able to find a commercial product that is 1500W.
Have any of you used something like THIS to help your stove keep up, or have any similar suggestions? I did my first boil last weekend and the coils on my stove actually burned through their coating. I plan on using propane outdoors in the spring after this upcoming Minnesota winter.
you can use a heat stick to speed it up, i have used this one
I'm having the same issue; you may want to try one of these. I also avoid using Drano, as it's very toxic and never seems to work anyway.
How does nobody in this thread know about ZipIts?
Literally a $3 reusable, immediate non-chemical solution to the problem.
Is a no see um a fruit fly? I've never heard of the bug being called that, but at my last apartment we had a drain fly infestation which are teeny tiny little black flies that live in your...drains.
I got rid of them by doing a couple things:
I think they're talking about this?
I installed one of these recirculating pumps a few years ago for the same reason.
It has a built in analog timer, but I just set it to always on and use a smart plug to handle the time schedule.
i have a 150w in my 46 gallon and it barley keeps up, have to have it cranked to max (86 i think) to keep the tank at 78) I'm going to move up to a 200 soon, or probably just adding a second heater.
price difference is negligible between 150 and 200 for the most part.
I use this instead of the python adapter, half cost, same thing, add a $1 hose clamp if you want but you may not need it, the pressure doesn't get to high out of inside faucets honestly. You don't need the hook in all likelihood, I do my changes solo without the hook just fine.
If you want to save even more money, you can DIY the whole thing for cheaper as well, just search around on the youtube channel of a guy called king of DIY
Don't spend $26 on test strips, strips suck, spend $22 on the api liquid test kit, it will last longer anyway
the bacteria quick start is real hit or miss, all brands, so don't put too much faith in it, you'll still spend weeks cycling probably. remember to get a source of ammonia ($3 for a bottle, get pure stuff, without anything added, if you shake it and there are lasting bubbles, its not what you need)
plants get expensive FAST, so 150 for plants, decorations, fish is gonna be tough. Pool filter sand is great easy substrate though, so is black diamond blasting media if you prefer black, both are probably in the $10 range for enough to cover your tank to the proper depth. driftwood and nice rocks can add up fast.
/r/PlantedTank has a weekly giveaway thread but its not too filled ever, r/aquaswap can get you some good deals on plants too. aquabid.com is aquarium ebay and can get you some good deals too.
I just looked back up and saw you didn't actually say plants, but plants are cool and help your tank stay stable and healthy, you'll probably want some eventually. But you will probably want a better light for live plants as well. That can be down the road I guess.
If you are buying from petsmart, know that they will pricematch their own website, the instore prices are outrageous. Online has to at least compete with other places though, so have the products pulled up online on your phone when you check out. petsmart also has an app, make an account and play their dumb little treat game. Right now if you beat it on hard its 20% off a single item, which is great for your tank stand combo. Easy and medium gives you a 10 and a 15% off as well. Its a simple enough concept, but beating it on hard can suck, I definitely get the feeling it just lets you win after a while though (10ish tries, quit for a day and try again and you'll get it quick)
For stocking it, a couple dwarf gouramis if some kind, honey or powder blue or whatever you like. maybe a schooling fish like cardinal or neon tetras. mollys or platys are colorful and will breed, corys for the bottom. a nerite snail, play around on aqadvisor.com and see what you can safely stock together and the basic requirements. Dont take it as gospel, just a good baseline and jumping off point for more research.
My personal suggestion to backups of backup sump pumps is a water powered one. https://www.amazon.com/Basepump-Water-Powered-Backup-Sump/dp/B000GBUU7G
I mean, a generator is fine and all (and definitely get one!), but unless you get a full automatic switch over, it may not operate at a time when you're not there and still need the backup to the backup to function.
It uses the magic of siphon suction, water flow to pump. The catch is, its only for being a backup. Otherwise you will waste water like crazy. You would only want this if you had city water. If you live on well, and pressurize your own water source, it would not be a good solution.
Good point. It also looks like the cost of a utility pump that runs 1800 GPH costs less than the pond pumps that can push 600.
I haven't researched it yet. And since her daughter divorced me, I can't exactly call and ask :)
I'm pretty sure it's something like this:
Though on this one I'd want professional installation. Get that one wrong and it could be very bad.
Plumber here, buy this pump and this check valve . For your backup,it is a bit pricey but if you are on city water (well water wont work in the event of a power outage) I would recomend this pump It is powered by a stream of water so you don't have to worry about battery maintenance.
I had one and it was great! Got it as a joke, but it quickly became a legitimate thing I used a lot. It makes getting a sip of water after brushing your teeth easy, totally recommended.
Here it is on amazon.
And if you're looking for a fancier one, I recently replaced my whale with this;
The cool thing about that is that it works like a normal faucet normally, but you pull the little thing on the side out to swap it to a fountain. And after you turn off the water, the button automatically goes back in so you don't spray yourself in the face tomorrow, haha
If the hole is small enough, the fish tape won't buckle enough and you will still be able to push it.
Otherwise, look for one of those drain augers:
I am horrified for you! So gross!
I have one of these pumps that fits a CeraVe tub perfectly and because of things like that it is worth every penny.
I just bought this for my CeraVe tub! It's the perfect size for those jars.
This pump fits the cerave tubs lid.
Think it's this one.
I bought this one after seeing it recommended in a thread here and it fits the tub perfectly.
Schedule 40 PVC is safe as long as you don't let it get moldy.
With that said, I've looked at gravity sinks and it seems like the downsides outweigh the upsides. Water weight high up means the van will be more top heavy and any imbalance will be exaggerated. It also requires quite a bit of support to mount. Being permanent, it's harder to fill. If the van is at an angle, you might not be able to use it (I'm assuming you'll be using a long tube of PVC). It'll be sloshing around while you're driving.
If you're going for water with no electricity, maybe look at something like this pump: https://www.amazon.com/Water-Bottle-Pump-Original-Excluding/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526855465&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=5+gallon+hand+pump
Those are just my thoughts. I speak from reading and looking at them, I haven't used one in person.
Waterstop liquid = chemical drain cleaner such as Drano
While these cleaners are heavily advertised and used by many the fact is that they are very harsh chemicals and can ruin many things they touch. They can also damage or destroy many types of plumbing pipes.
In the future you'd be much better off using mechanical drain cleaners. For example shower/bathtub drains typically get clogged with hair and there are inexpensive types of drain sticks or drain snakes that will clear these out including some inexpensive disposable plastic ones.
I'd chase my woman around the house with that shit, while she screamed like it was disgusting. Bitch, you already made me clean it. "HOW CAN YOU THINK IT'S GROSS IF IT'S YOUR HAIR?!?"
I used one of these https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8
I have one of these and it's great. I bought a pump like this one which did die on me eventually, but it's much easier to clean and replace since it's not inside the system
This is what I bought:
Congrats! I too got one for my birthday and have put two all two all-grain batches through it in March. It’s super convenient but even with all the reading and YouTubing I did before using there was still a bit of a learning curve.
If you did not get the version with the built in pump, I would highly recommend getting pump recommended on amazon to help with recirculation during mash. I had a pretty difficult time the first time since I had decided not to use it. I noticed the built-in sensor kicking on the heating element on even though I was measuring a correct mash temp. On the second brew day I used the pump and the heating element did not kick on as much.
If you are using the amazon pump, I’d also recommend running it with the valve 50-75% open or to have the tube reach into the mash. I slightly modified my lid by drilling out the hole in the top to fit a 3/8” stainless barbed elbow. This was done to avoid kinking of the silicone tubing and to be able to keep the lid on during mash. The problem I ran into by doing this is the flow from the pump was too high and the splashing cause a foam to build up. The foam easily rose to the top with some bits of grain and husks, and could have easily spilled over the sides of the basket. I noticed this about 30 minutes into the mash and adjusted the valve to lower thr flow. I will likey test adding 6-12” of tubing on the other end of thr elbow so that the tube end is in the mash and not above to cause splashing.
My mashes have been full immersion using a bag and I’m temped to sparge with it to see if I can get more efficiency above 75%.
I went with this. Saw it mentioned a few times. Seems to be decent.
For mash circulation, you don't need much. On my small electric system (Mash and Boil) I use one of these.. That has a 2.1 GPM flow rate.
A step up would be the Anvil Pump at 3 GPM flow rate. It also has some added benefits like in line switch.
A further step up would be the MKII Pump with a 5 GPM max flow. I personally think this is the best performance for price (never having used it, and just reading specs).
stinger although what we used was home made.
You could consider getting one of these.
I travel with one of these. I also travel with an Immersion heater and trusty thermometer as well as hand grinder, (not sure of the model, I've had it quite a while.)
I brewed a lot in a small bachelor's barracks in Korea with a shitty coil stove top.
For the record, I did all of this (and got an insulated bag for temperature control) before I did my first batch; if you make it more painful on yourself and get an inferior product, then you'll probably not want to do it again.
Thank you! Just purchased this water heater, by browsing your list. It's exactly what I need to get my water up to temp on my dinky stove!
I used this one when I was stuck brewing on the stove in my last apartment:
Gave me no issues at all, though I've since moved into a house where I can brew outside with propane.
Agreed. Those propane units are awesome.
You could also use a camp shower bag. Hang outside during the day to warm. Now, those aren't going to be very long showers, but enough to get a person clean. I suspect you'd need a bag per person.
Another option is this added to this. Again, it's going to be a short shower, but it will work.
Technically, the primary reason to fully boil the wort is to reduce the volume and concentrate it. DMS decomposition occurs starting at around 120F IIRC, and evaporates down to 100F or so. The Oxide (DMSO) is much less volatile, and does not evaporate until about 180F, but is generally produced in much lower quantities (especially if you are doing extract, since there really should be no reason for excess oxygen to enter the wort). Hop acids and whatnot dissolve just fine at non-boiling temperatures.
Honestly, it's far from ideal if you cannot reach a full boil, but it also isn't the end of the world. It's more important to not cover the wort if you can avoid it, and keep it as hot as possible. You'll end up with beer on the other side, and it will probably taste fine, if not a bit weaker than expected, though once again, since it is an extract brew you can just use less water to top it off (or throw in some extra extract to compensate). If you want to stay electric and indoors, you can try something like this to help you get a better stove boil.
I bought a bucket heater, and it is great! Plug it in, go do some stuff and come back later to strike temp. Or set up with a temp controller/timer, etc.
My setup is indeed a cooler box with a ball valve poking out it, using the steel braid from the outside of a hose to lauter (and a few other things like a 1/2" nipple through where the drain was and a hose to drain it) but you can just use a kettle with a grain bag in it. If you go the cooler way, make sure everything is stainless or brass cause it'll taste like shit if your stuff corrodes in the mash.
Something like this could be used to supplement your stovetop. I actually do the boil in 2 separate 5 gallon kettles on the stove top myself, so don't need one. If you want to do it on a stove top in one big kettle you may need supplemental heat, 1500W should be plenty. Most people buy an outdoor propane burner for it.
You may have mis-read that.... 1,000W, not 10,000 :-)
I brew ten gallons on the stove top with a 15 gallon blichmann boil kettle and a heat stick.
The manufacturer says it wasn't designed to be food-grade safe regarding the welds for the casing, but hey, at the amount I drink, brewing at least three times a month on a 10-gallon scale, I'm pretty sure cancer from the heat stick is the least of my concerns.
I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BDB4UG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_LKjTub0HX6E86
I just plug it in and set it into the center of the wort. This stick elevates the temperature in my kettle to a rolling boil without fuss.
I would recommend you just buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/MARSHALLTOWN-Premier-742G-Bucket-Heater/dp/B000BDB4UG/
Good solution if you don't have an outdoor brew space. Adds enough BTUs to do a full boil on 2 gas stove burners.
No experiance with it but thinking about one of these
This is probably the best tool I own when it comes to BIAB on an electric stove. With it, I can boil 6.5 gallons of wort in about 15-20 minutes (in conjunction with the stovetop on high).
Something like this might save you a lot of aggravation.
This is the best thing ever for clogged drains, especially if it's a bunch of hair stuck in the tub.
It won't be enough.
I use one of these
It works, but man, it can be gross.
I just found a link on Amazon. I warn you not to click on the customer photos. Gross.
I guess it's like a snake for household use.
You'll want one of these eventually. Works especially well in slow shower drains.
I have super thick hair that is past my waist and I used to buy so much Drano. Have you ever tried the zip-it? It just pulls the hair out of the drain and the results last a lot longer than liquid plumbing stuff for me. Plus there are tons of disgusting videos of youtube to show you how to use it. And those little drain strainer things help a ton too, because they keep the hair out of the drain in the first place.
Get a ZipIt, stick it drown the drain and it will likely pull a giant hair snake out of the drain.
I use one of these fuckers right here. Push it as far in as it will go, move it in a circle, in and out a few times (that's what she said), then haul out the nasty clump of demon jizz blocking your drain. Repeat as necessary.
Speaking of tool belts, you may want to include the [Zip-It] (http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204) style drain cleaner and the curved hemostat for the inevitable sink/tub clogs. Also, check out videos for removing sink stoppers. The lift arm/stopper intersection is where most hair accumulates in sinks.
Don't use drain chemicals, use one of these. They actually work and don't release nasty chemicals into the wild.
I use a Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool. Its basically a flat plastic stick with barbs to pull up hair. Works like a charm.
Here... I think: http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-400-Drain-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204
That is the worst product photo I've ever seen.
[best purchase after moving in with my girlfriend] ( http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1374807354&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=zip+it])
Yeah, just I was thinking... plastic pipes?
I would recommend instead:
and for a sink in particular... look at how the sink stopper works and clean it.
Here are the materials I used if anyone is interested.
Silicone Grease: http://www.amazon.com/Danco-88693-Silicone-Grease/dp/B000DZFUPC?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages01
That's a old Delta faucet -- the spout seals with 2 large o-rings. It shouldn't screech when you move it.
If you were to get a rebuild kit it would probably fix the problem. Wouldn't hurt to lube the o-rings with some food-grade lubricant.
This is what I use. I've been using it for about two years with zero issues. It seems to be an unlimited supply but I just ordered a new tube just in case i lose my first one.
Every tank style hot water heater I have seen or heard of will heat the water, store it, and maintain a temperature. Getting cold water from a hot water line (for some short time) is usually indicative of just cooled water sitting in the pipe between the point of use and the tank.
I think something is wrong with your tank if you have to run the water for 20 minutes before getting hot water. Or perhaps the tank is very far from the shower?
But assuming a working hot water heater, I recommend something like this be installed under the closest sink to the shower. It will pull hot water and pump it into the cold water line. If you set it up correctly on the timer, it will keep the call for hot water set to an optimal time for you (20 min before you wake up). It should keep newly heated water in the hot water pipes between the sink and the tank during the time you set. So you shouldn't have to run the shower long to get hot water, just long enough to clear the cooled water between the sink and shower.
The downside is it could impact the water in the house for drinking. Because tanks can collect calcium and other minerals, there could be a higher density of this water in the cold water line put there by the recirculating pump. Just something to think about and research a bit.
If you want to go radical, run a hot water recirculator loop to the sink and back to the water heater. a la Hot Water Recirculating System with Built-In Timer This provides rapid hot water response. Then insulating the whole loop reduces energy loss.
A hot water recirculator might be a better option for you. I dont think anything like that exists, or at least I have never heard of one.
Basically just cycles the water through to keep the hot warm
A couple hundred bucks plus install. Something like this. We have one and it is nice. The the shower heats up in seconds.
You need one of these. Easy to install and hot water FAST!
Around here the spigots are mostly threaded though I did buy one of these just in case.
If it's not marked non-potable and doesn't have signs saying not to do that (some places have limited water), then yes. Just remember that other people may have done unsanitary things to the spigot, and recently I heard about a guy that found worms in one. I always run it first, look into it, then connect. A fill tube with a screen is a good idea also. I use this, and added a screen to it:
A water bandit will help you connect to arbitrary water sources that don't have a normal screw connection, such as faucets at fish cleaning stations:
I have another brand of one of these installed. It is a water powered backup. Saved me one time. Well worth it.
Hope the links work.
Add water hammer arresters on at your washer. Both hot and cold sides
Sounds like hammering. It's not usually a big deal - just a nuisance. But, obviously, if the hammering is violent enough, it can break the pipe at the solder or even split the pipe.
The first bang and the lower bangs sounds exactly like hammering though. The first bang is the initial "heave" caused by the sudden stop of water and the other smaller ones are just the pipe continuing to oscillate for a few seconds.
Like I said before, have someone flush a toilet from your side and see if that does it on their side. If that's the case, you can buy one of these:
Really easy to install and should help.
Or...you can manually lower the water pressure in your house by turning down the valve just after the water meter (not recommended as a long term solution).
If you do not have a water hammer arrestor plumbed in near the washing machine you'll get more frequent failures like these. During normal operation of the machine, at the time when the machine is shutting off the water intake, that thumping noise you hear is an increase of water pressure that likes to blow out hoses or washers.
For around $20 you can get a small arrestor that would be plumbed in between the hose and your water line. If you keep getting problems... well, that's the fix.
That flow sounds reasonable. I'd be conservative and aim for 10 gpm.
As far as pressure goes, the wand in the link looks designed to lower pressure, to give the soft flow you're talking about. Normally they are hooked to a city water supply at 30-40 psi, so they lower it by forcing it through hundreds of tiny holes. I'm not sure how the wand would behave at a low pressure (5-10psi) and its seems a bit wasteful to boost the pressure with pump to 40 psi, just to bring it back down.
Anywho, I'd guess 10ish psi might work (23 feet of lift). Since it's probably easier to just drop the pump into the trough, a submersible utility pump might do the trick. Something like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398380781&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=submersible+utility+pump). Might be nice to make sure a standard water hose can connect to it without many adapters.
Sorry draw this process out. Just wanted to make sure the shoe fits.
The NR-210A has no flow requirement according to Navien. The NR-210 model has a 0.5 gpm min flow rate. Which is the same as my Takagi.
Here's the pump I use for flushing my tankless once a year.
Some simple washing machine hoses will allow you to hook up to the clean out valves. Just dunk the pump in a 5 gallon bucket of white vinegar and run it through for about an hour with the tankless in off mode.
Buy a $50 submersible pump and hook a hose to it. Look at Amazon review photos to see the amount of water those things are capable of moving.
I use this is a cooler with ice to speed things up.
I added one of those 3 prong adapter/switches too so I can turn it on and off without having to pull the cord out of the outlet too.
Or a water powered sump pump.
I have a water-powered backup that I have been really happy with. Link
Whale Faucet Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019TUKV0/
Just clean it, spraypaint it, and cover it with one of these:
They're cheap as hell from every hardware store and they'll keep the weather from screwing up the connection.
He needs some of these bad boys
I was thinking of something like this. Not sure it’s big enough, but it may work
I got this one from amazon and it fit perfectly
Surgeon's Skin Secret Pump, 16 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005N9BHQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WUKKAbG7N6KJD
> I just wish I could find a pump lid for the 12 oz CeraVe jars
They aren't that hard to find at container supply places but shipping is usually the deal breaker. Here's one from Amazon that could work.
Another option though, would be to use a smaller airless pump bottle for your moisturizer. Store the tub and just transfer into the bottle as you need it. Choose the size that would be most convenient for you.
I actually saw these lids on /r/skincareaddicition and these should work. I know they work with Cerave tubs. Besides that theres also these jars with a lid that could work, you'd just need to transfer your product into the tub.
My routine is not really indie. There is a lot of stuff about routines on /r/skincareaddiction btw.
Mine is like this:
(0. if wearing makeup. Rub jojoba oil all over, and wipe off with damp microfiber cloth)
Here is a list of products:
This one fits. I bought it specifically for that cowash.
this is the one I bought for CeraVe; it fits perfectly and might work for Cetaphil as well.
Thankfully I have not had a failure. knock on wood The handles have helped me to control the carboy when lifting, moving, and pouring from it. Also if it’s going to be for potable water, something like this will let you not have to always lift it.
Water Bottle Pump - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APU2Y8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p3unDbQZ3WX93
One thing I'm gonna do this year is buy a couple 5 gallon jugs of water and hang onto them for the season. So much easier than going out last minute for individual bottles which are usually the first to go. Even if you don't have an electric water dispenser, which I don't, you can buy a manual stand or a pump.
Orrr, you could easily install one of these to easily stop the flow of water while you soap up so you don’t have to try to deal with an app in the shower.
>I don’t know about you, but showering generally takes a good chunk out of my morning.
If it's taking a good chunk out of someone's morning then they're being slow as hell. A Navy shower takes less than 2 minutes and uses very little water. It's even easier when you have an on/off valve so you don't have to readjust the temp two different times. This one's only $10, plus another $4 or so for some teflon tape.
These valves can save a lot of water without needing to go dirty.
>Here’s one you may not have heard of: according to Modern Alternative Mama, showering too often can prevent your body from synthesizing the vitamin D you get from the sun.
>Vitamin D, as a fat-soluble vitamin, is made in the oily layer of your skin. It is then slowly absorbed over 2 – 3 days. If you shower everyday and use soap, you will wash this oily layer off your skin and will not absorb the vitamin D you just made!
Vitamin D is made when sunlight hits 7-dehydrocholesterol (7-DHC) which is made in the wall of the intestines and then is transported to the skin. (https://www.jidonline.org/article/S0022-202X(15)34937-X/fulltext)
It's found mostly in the 2 inner-most layers of epidermis. Melanin can prevent sunlight from getting to 7-DHC, and since you can't wash off melanin it should be obvious that you also can't wash off 7-DHC. The only way showering can affect the production of Vitamin D is if you don't take them often enough and have enough dirt on you to block sunlight.
That being said, showering is something that different people have to do at different frequencies. Someone who works manual labor will need to shower more often than someone with a desk job and a car with working A/C. While it is a good thing to not waste resources, this article is full of ridiculousness.
> Would a shower head with a "pause" setting work?
Or put one these between the shower head and the wall: https://www.amazon.com/K1140B-Shower-Shut-Off-Polished-Chrome/dp/B00HSWPYIG
It's like a cheap drain auger but really easy to use it's incredibly effective at getting hair out.
Word of advice: Wear gloves. Latex, Nitrile, whatever, wear some disposable gloves. The hair wad is going to so smell like death.
For serious, these things make life with long hair so much easier. You can find them in most hardware stores and plumbing sections for about $2 IRL - https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-Drain-Cleaning-1-Pack/dp/B00OM31OOM/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_lp_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3JJKZ4WCPS840328VZA3
Cobra Products Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool, 1-Pack
I know I'm lame, but This would be the best bc my bath tub has started draining really really slowly.
I use one of these about once a week, because our tub and pipes are pretty old, and that's about all it takes for our drain to start clogging. If the link doesn't work, it's just a 3 or 4 pack of drain snakes, which look like long zipties.
I've tried using a hair trap like this one, but even though I'm also really careful about grabbing my hair before it can go down the drain, enough of it gets away that when I use the hair trap, I have standing water in my shower before I'm done. I'd rather just snake the drain once a week.
The conditioner isn't clogging your drain, it's hair. But it may be helping the hair clump together (which will also make it easier to snake it out). Dran-o and other pipe cleaning chemicals won't do much against these clogs-- before I bought the snakes, my partner ran ~3 gallons of Dran-o down the shower drain and it didn't do much.
If your drain has a raised, silver mushroomy head to it, you might need a snake more like this. That's what we have for our bathroom counter sink.
Bathtubs are noted for getting plugged up by hair. Try; https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523663828&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=drain+cleaner+tool
Draino let sit for awhile and then run hot water
If that doesn’t work then buy a snake
If that doesn’t work then call a plumber
Vastar 3 Pack 19.6 Inch Drain Snake Hair Drain Clog Remover Cleaning Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_JVBuDWVwnBEoG
https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&amp;keywords=drain%20zipper&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;qid=1498666129&amp;ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&amp;sr=8-1 6 for $8
Oh that's perfect, I never thought of getting a two-sim phone.
Things I include are:
all payments are made through cozy.co, please arrange payments to be made on the first of each month.
Utilities: please call xxx for electricity, xxx for gas, xxx for internet, etc
Garbage days are x, recycling days are x, please use BLACK BAGS for garbage and CLEAR for recycling.
If you have BULK GARBAGE (tables, chairs, etc.) please contact xxx to schedule pickup.
BEST MEANS OF CONTACT [email protected] (PREFERRED), or TEXT (xxx)xxx-xxxx
Mail & Packages – if mail for any past tenants come, please bundle them together and leave a note for the post-man that they have moved.
Renters insurance can be purchased via Cozy.Co or Lemonade.com (you should include a clause in your lease that they need to purchase it, it saves you a lot of money and headaches in the long term if something goes horribly wrong)
Tips for maintaining your unit:
Purchase some drain snakes from home depot (~$1 each, or https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen-bath&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538690742&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=sink+snake) and use them around the house every 3 months or when sinks begin to not drain properly.
DO NOT USE DRANO OR EQUIVALENT AS YOUR FIRST OPTION WHEN DRAINS DO NOT GO DOWN PROPERLY. This damages pipes over time and is only recommended as a last resort.
Sinks do not double as garbage disposal, please use a sink strainer and do not let any food go down the kitchen sink.
It is highly recommended that you purchase a roomba or equivalent, or hire a cleaning company every month or so.
In the winter, if the weather is incredibly cold out (less than 32 degrees F), please leave the kitchen sink dripping every so slightly (a drip per second), as this will prevent pipes from bursting.
Again, I hope you are happy with your new apartment, and if there is anything else I can do to make the move-in process easier please let me know.
All the best,
I used to. It stopped when stole a stainless steel bowl from the kitchen and use that to rinse off my razor. When I'm done that bowl gets emptied into the toilet. Lowes sells Plastic Drain Snakes. I wouldn't recommend buying the ones I linked, just using it as a visual aid. I used to have to use those every month or so. Now it's every 6 months or so.
not sure on that overflow cap. what year was your house built? once you get it cleaned up, i use one of these every other month in all the bathroom drains i can for maintenance. https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8
Several amazon sellers stock them for similar prices, here's one example. I've seen them cheaper without the AC adapter. Plenty of reviews on there.
This is what I use. You have to prime this one manually. I Jerry rigged a switch to it for convenience. There are definitely nicer ones out there but it works great for us.
I’ve used this one with good results. It’s not a great transfer pump, but it’s perfect for cooling. I use it in an ice water bath to temp control my spike fermenter.
you can build the exact same thing diy for about $70. and im sure you can source cheaper parts. you get 2 brass hose barbs with the pump below as well.
That said, being able to keg and serve in the same day with perfect carbonation is pretty awesome.
I use this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
not self priming but sure beats gravity
Yeah i found this which looks like a lot of people are using for recirc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G305PK0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 or if i need a real chugger or something that can stand up to some grain mush. I think ill try it and see.
It's not as strong as the pricier pumps but it does just fine.
I even used one of these on a 5 gallon setup for a while and it was even able to do what I needed:
A couple tools, but not bits that you can easily lose, because believe me you will lose them.
I use the Retract-a-bit screwdrivers for most stuff I'm working on, and just a standard kit, the one thing you will want to make sure you have is a really long phillips head screwdriver. There will be a lot of times you need something silly long to get down inbetween heatsinks etc.
Another thing I find worth its weight in gold is something like this:
Perhaps something like this?
[RAM-PRO 36” Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool, Extra Long Retractable Claw Retriever Stick, Snake & Cable Aid, Use to Grab Trash & a Drain Auger to Unclog Hair from Drains, Sink, Toilet & Clean Dryer Vents] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_anV-Bb6A4YFKM)
Did a reverse image search and found this: https://www.amazon.com/RAM-PRO-Flexible-Grabber-Retractable-Retriever/dp/B01LM2L50I
If egg-boiling is on the horizon, one of these might be better: http://www.amazon.com/Travel-Immersion-Water-Heater-Voltage/dp/B000AXS0UE
Growing up I knew somebody that had one, but only one person.
We have a kettle that goes on the stove at home. In the absence of a stove, my ma uses an immersion heater and the rest of us heathens boil water in the microwave.
I'm just a regular joe coming from /r/all, but I had the thought of using heat. I'm thinking either a torch set to a low flame, or a handheld electric heater like this.
Obviously potentially dangerous and destructive, but I think if you keep your eye on it and be careful, you could achieve a nice melted layer on the inside.
Edit: Thought of something else. You might be able to buff the inside smooth, like with a small felt buffing tip or a smooth metal piece of some sort in a drill. This might technically be called burnishing.
Instead of a kettle, you could use an immersion heating coil like this: http://www.amazon.com/Travel-Immersion-Water-Heater-Voltage/dp/B000AXS0UE
Also, instead of hauling jugs of water from the store that has been sitting in plastic, why not just get a brita or (even better) a tiny Berkey filter?
I brew 5 gallon batches with two of these 1000 watt bucket heaters. 1500 watts each would be a bit better and quicker, but they work fine and are easy to clean.
Just make sure you plug them into two separate breakers.
I use a 1800w induction cooktop. I brewed a small batch blonde ale two weeks ago on it. I wrapped my 10gallon megapot with reflectix and was able to get a weak boil at 4.5 gallons. If you supplement it with a heatstick/bucket heater from amazon, you can easily boil 7 gallons.
If it comes down to using electric I have been using [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Allied-Precision-Premier-742G-Bucket/dp/B000BDB4UG/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382967988&amp;sr=1-1-catcorr&amp;keywords=bucket+heater). I have them hooked them up to a spa thermostat to turn them on and off.
E.g. https://www.amazon.ca/MARSHALLTOWN-Premier-Line-742G-Bucket/dp/B000BDB4UG ?
For the driftwood you can always get a 55 gallon drum and a bucket heater and insulate the drum to actually get it to near boiling temperatures or add a second bucket heater to get it boiling. I used the foil covered bubble wrap stuff when I did mine. Plus had it sitting on a 2" piece of styrofoam to keep it off the cold ground. With one heater I got it to about 180℉. Walked into a muggy jungle garage when I did that.
Allied Precision The Premier Line 742G Bucket Water Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BDB4UG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_B15Bwb6FH6K18
Perhaps using something like this.
This being an electric element, you SHOULD NOT get in the tub while this is immersed and plugged in.
I guess he was saving water, and instead of using hot water, he used this to keep the water hot, or heat it up. he passed away in the tub with this thing still in there, it might not have been an active boil, i'm pretty sure it was just like a huge slow cooker..yeah, near boil, until it dried up. i'm sure that it was a few days before they found him.
in kettle? No, not personally, but I do use a heat stick, and you can DIY that or get one for pretty cheap off amazon.
They work really well! Apartment brewing
9a, northeast florida. Doesn't get too cold here, but cold enough I lost a fish in October without a heater. The temperature controller is an STC1000, commonly used for homebrewing but it works great for the tank as well, the temperature probe it comes with is water proof, and its cheap. The heater is a 5 gallon bucket heater, designed to get 5 gallons quite hot, but does a good job of keeping 250 gallons at 65. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BDB4UG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Right now it's in the 40s outside overnight, but usually in the 50-60 range, with really cold snaps to the 20s. I have my system in a plastic tarp greenhouse. The tarp just keeps the wind out because its too thin to actually hold any heat. I'm upgrading to a "real" greenhouse type of 6 mil sheeting that should help hold in heat and maybe reduce the time the heater has to stay operational.
I also have a mini rocket mass heater I built on the side of the tank as an experiment. The exhaust runs through about 60lbs of sand stacked against the side of my wood and pond liner tank before exiting out the top of the greenhouse. Plan was to run that for a few hours before really cold nights, heat up the sand and help keep the side of the tank warm. In reality I dont think the heat is transferring through the wooden walls the tank much if at all. And any ambient heating the sand and heater are doing is being lost through the thin plastic sheeting. I'm interested in seeing how that changes with the thicker plastic too. I only just got the mass heater working though, so it doesn't influence what I said about the water heater.
I'm upgrading my setup but I'm unable to build a complete eBIAB system. In the meantime I'm looking at buying this heating element to supplement the stovetop. I've seen it pop up around here nDoes anyone have any experience with this?
I bought a heat stick to help with the boil and it boils quite nicely now.
I haven't brewed since I moved and am stuck in a house without a water spigot. I am about to pull the trigger on this water bucket heater so I can brew inside on my stove top. Long weekend and beer brewing sounds good to me!
It's this guy:
Get a zip it thingy. You can get em for like 3 bucks at walmart. It's a long plastic thingy with these hook like things on it. Push it down the drain and pull it back up and it pulls all that nasty smelling long hair and anything attached to it back up.
http://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Zip-It-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204 <--- something like that.
Magic Jewelry Retriever It's $5 and has gotten my jewelry on the FIRST try.
Or a coathanger with a narrow hook bent into the end of it. GO FISHIN!
The absolute last drain cleaning tool you will ever need - only 5 bucks at any hardware store and nigh-unlimited reuses.
What's even worse when you live with someone with long hair is when the dreaded "Why the fuck is the shower draining so slowly?" moment turns into the "Fuuuuuck! We have to clean the drain out!" experience.
My advice? Get a filter mask like this because the stench is like nothing I've ever encountered except for cleaning out grease traps at fast-food places; disposable nitrile gloves are also a very good idea
Next, you'll need a pair of long needle-nosed pliers. These will be used for Stage I: Grabbing the easy stuff. The easy stuff is hair that has managed to drape itself over the bottom of the drain; the part that looks like an "X." Lower the pliers down, with the needles slightly apart and grab some hair, and then pull up slowly*. The purpose for this is to maximize the amount of hair that you pull up each time. have a waste can lined with a bag to deposit the hair in.
Continue until you can no longer fish out any hair this way.
Stage II: Exorcising What Lurks Beneath.**
Stage II Tools:
Take the drain-cleaning tool out of it's packaging, stickit down the drain until you meet resistance, push it in a little further, then twist it around a few times.
[evil chuckle] Now comes the fun part. slowly pull the cleaning tool out of the drain and have someone standing by with the pliers in case the hair tries to make a getaway. What usually comes out the first time will look like a very skinny drowned rat. It will also smell like a skinny drowned rat. Repeat until no appreciable amounts of hair come out of the drain. Then you can move onto...
Stage III: We have to nuke it from orbit; it's the only way to be sure.
Stage III tools:
Follow the directions on the container to the letter! The chemicals inside will dissolve most organic matter very quickly.
Hopefully after this, your drain will run like a raging rapid.
I don't know about you but plumbing, electrical work and car repairs are actually entirely DIY'able. The problems you will run into where this becomes a gray area have to do with money. (Drilling into concrete to fix broken pipes is super expensive)
You can google the fix to your plumbing, electrical and car problems most of the time...
Am I the only person that even tries?
Not to mention your comparison kind of sucks, but I'm playing into it just for fun.
EDIT: I guess the reason I am willing to even respond to this is that Electricity, Running (Hot) Water, and Transportation are the three things on top of my list labelled "Reminders of why you need Society at all." So these are areas where I do my best to learn and develop a sort of self-reliance. I'm not even joking, you literally picked the top 3 items on my list of things to understand thoroughly. I have a wealth of educational material on electricity alone.
I remember that stuff, had sorta a dome cap that had a lip so when you put it against your drain it sealed it and it shot whatever down the tubes...
It is pretty easy to unclog a drain, most stores have a 'zip stick' thing for like a buck that you poke down the drain and when you pull it out it is covered with hairs and soapy gunk. Because what usually clogs a drain is grease/hair/soap so most liquid plummer things are like Grease relief+Nair+ hot water.
Your lease should tell if you are responsible for maintenance fees or not. Generally, a landlord is responsible for maintaining habitability of the premises. Its reasonable to charge a tenant for damages that are intentional or negligent, as the tenant also has a duty to maintain the property - sanitation, etc. Here is some general info on landlord tenant duty in Fl.
Caulk is a minor issue. It always gets moldy and discolored and cracks. This is probably the landlord's issue to replace the cracked caulk, especially if it wasn't done before move in. As to the discoloration, you can clean it. One way is to soak cotton balls in bleach and stick them to the bad areas for like an hour, which will take care of the mold/discoloration problem. Also, going forward, caulk is like $3 and its super easy to re-apply, rather than having to wait on your landlord. Learn to do things yourselves ladies, it will save you so much money and headache. The internet is an amazing resource.
Drain is a normal issue that happens especially if there are long haired people in the house. As to this being the tenant's fault, it probably is. You didn't keep the drain clear, as you're supposed to keep the plumbing in good condition. If a tree root grew into the lines, then that's landlord. You not collecting your hair and causing a clog, that's on you. You could have expected this to happen and put a drain catcher on it. Try a device like the zip it to unclog the drain. Shove it in, it catches hair, pull out. Kind of gross, but cheap and easy. And just as a FYI going forward on plumbing - do not flush your tampons. If and when it clogs your toilet, you'll get another charge. Wrap it in toilet paper and put it in the trash.
You're probably out of luck on the ice machine. Your lease doesn't mention it, and it does not go to habitability of the unit. You can survive without an ice maker. If you really want it fixed, check youtube for some DIY tips. Might be as simple as checking the connections.
When you get upset about these problems, remember there are people who live in apartments with nails sticking out of the floor, doors that don't lock, and broken windows. Your problems are non-issues that do not go to the habitability of the place. You can live there just fine without an ice maker, or with discolored caulk.
Feel free to talk to your landlord to get this waived. However, if they don't budge, expect it to be taken out of your deposit when you move. At that point, your option is to accept the charge or fight it in court. For $90, I'd say just suck it up.
Yes, I totally agree, get a "zip it" drain cleaner tool! Something like this [https://www.amazon.com/Cobra-Products-00412BL-Drain-Cleaning/dp/B000BO9204] can be purchased at just about any home improvement type store.
It works so well and is so easy to use that when they first came out the plumbing company I worked for went out and purchased them for all of the plumbers to use as part of their kits.
Can't recommend it enough! (I also have one for my bathroom sink, seriously they are amazing, and like you; no one else around here was taking care of it. /hugs)
I have had that problem, and I used a cheap drain snake, wiggling back and forth putting it in, and wiggling back and forth getting it out. It takes some finesse, but it was easier than taking out the drain plug. This Though they are usually only $2-3 at Menard's by the registers.
The works wonders!
Cobra Products 00412BL Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BO9204/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UezTBbMG1R1Z2
I'd just use this.
In fact, I do use it to clean long hair out. Pretty effective.
My ex did this constantly, and had the nerve to claim that some combination of my facial hair and shaving cream were the reason the sink kept getting clogged. No way those nasty clumps of two foot long hairs we keep pulling out of there could have anything to do with it, right?
On a side note, a long plastic thing with barbs on it often worked a lot better than drain cleaner.
Get one of these plastic strips and some rubber gloves.
For me it's cheaper and more effective than drain cleaner to remove the accumulation of long hair. If you're still having problems then you need a plumber to snake your drain.
If there is one lasting skill inflicted upon me from 4 years in the USMC - its how to clean anything.
The sink you linked to in the image looks old enough to be classic porcelain / china rather than the newer, fancier - but dramatically softer & easier to damage composite materials.
China can stand up to brutal scrubbing from things like comet or ajax powder.
Newer composite material cannot - you will damage the finish.
Best of all are the ancient porcelain covered, cast iron sinks. Those will absorb any and all forms of cleaning short of a wire brush on a drill and just not care.
So to be safe, go gentle.
Soft scrub on a sponge as recommended by /u/iwuvbinny is a good start.
Two related thoughts that may or may not apply to your dorm:
If housing doesn't make plungers easily available at any hour of the night invest in one - save yourself from a really awkward conversation with a neighbor in the wee hours of the morning. Oh, I realize a plunger isnt exactly something you want to take with you if you move to a new dorm next year, so the temptation to buy the $3 one will be your initial reaction. Yeah, don't do that. You don't need a $30 turbo-deluxe either. Something like this is money well-spent:
Since you'll be in the right aisle anyway, look for a drain opener / zip-stick like this one:
Especially if women use your sink/shower. Long hair is murder on drains. Drain-o is $5-10 a bottle and is only good for 2-3 clogs. A zip-stick is $3 and lasts just about forever.
Just a suggestion, try YouTube for questions like this next time.
The Zip it is awesome also.
Duct tape, aa batteries and absolutely one of these . I use it for so many things.....clearing drains, unclogging vacuum hose, retrieving cat toys from under fridge/oven.
They sell tools like Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool, which are just a flexible plastic stick with backfacing barbs on it... you stick it in, and pull out a dreadlock...
You could try using some type of plumbing snake. Unfortunately, I haven't tried any of them so I cannot give you first hand advice.
Edit: After looking around Amazon this snake has a lot of good reviews and is very cheap (under $3) so it may be worth a try.
If anyone wants one from Amazon...they're fairly inexpensive
Hair's the problem, not cum. Your drain became a spooge trap of rotting human hair, and your batter batter got caught in the crosshairs.
Get yourself one of these. Run it into the drain every month or so, twist a few times and start yanking. For anything deeper in the drain, you are gonna need a plumbing snake or a drain auger. Hair and sebum can be cleared deep in the drain with Magnesium crystals and draino, but only if there's a full clog. Avoid using chemicals in your drain unless you don't have a choice. You can wind up causing damage over the long term.
Clear your pipes in the shower all you want, just make sure you clear your pipes on the reg.
We had an epic clog in the bathroom sink once. The prior owners liked to cram hair down there or something. We ended up having to shut off the water to the bathroom, removed the piping, and manually scraping out all the goop and hair in the pipes. Then put it all back together and water test it. Took about 90 minutes and it has worked well ever since.
If you have to go that route get a pair of disposable gloves, one of those plastic drain snakes (about $2-$4 at HD), and a hook and pick set (saw one at autozone for $1.79). Don't forget some plumber's tape(just got some for $0.52 at walmart).
You can use either a big channel-lock pliers or an actual plumber's wrench (usually more expensive) to take apart the pipes, if you need to buy some measure your pipe sizes ahead of time. You will either need 2 of them, one to counterbalance your wrenching, or some other way to hold the other end in-place while you unscrew stuff.
As an aside: the amazon stuff I linked is waay over priced, but it lets you know what I am talking about, and I'm too lazy to find the best prices for stuff in your area.
$0-5 Sink drain cleaner My tub is really clogged even though I just moved in. Gross!
$5-10 This lunch container. To contain my lunch.
$10-20 Lion King Blu-Ray Because of childhood.
$20-50 New Super Mario Bros. 2 This game looks super fun. I mean... it's for my cousin... brother... baby...
Fully extend the legs in the up position.
Apply some lubricating grease - lightly.
Use something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZFUPC
Lower and raise a few times. See if that helps.
If it doesn't work, Ryan is always stalking the forum and can sell you a new frame.
P.S. Also, don't just google "lubricant". At least not from work.
Just today I am carrying my Vista modded to an eyedropper. You would love it!
Then you'll have that gorgeous slosh like this dude
Looks like it's sold out in a lot of places.
Would this Danco 88693 Silicone Grease work?
Silicone lubricant is the way to go! I purchased this one.
Assuming you mean increasing the volume of water coming from the faucet, then yes. The reason that you'll get cold water from your hot tap for a while is that the water heater is usually pretty far away from the sink. Even if the pipe between the two is well insulated, if you don't use the tap for a while the water sitting in it will cool down. By opening the faucet more, you're moving the old water out of the pipe faster and getting hot water from the heater faster.
If you have to wait a long time for this to happen, you're letting a lot of water go to waste. This can be solved by getting a circulator pump. When installed it pumps water from the sink end of your piping through a return line and back into the system right before the heater. This moves hot water from the heater up to the sink without wasting any.
On the other side, getting colder water would most likely be moving room temp water out of the pipes and getting to water that was sitting in your well or underground piping from the city.
Edit: I should write faster.
Edit Edit: This is one of the pumps I mentioned.
I'm going to advise against this completely because it's not going to work, unless I'm completely misunderstanding what you wrote.
The water needs to be constantly circulating or it's going to get cold. If it only circulates for x time after someone opens a tap, they're still going to have to wait for the new hot water to get to the faucet.. and then the extra circulation will continue after they shut off the water.. which is just wasting energy since nobody is actually using the water.
It will be: open tap - wait for cold water to get hot - shut off tap after getting hot water - hot water fills the domestic hot lines, and then cools off because nobody is using it anymore.. and that seems to defeat the purpose completely?
You either need a small pump that is constantly circulating the water or, probably the best bet, is buying a small insta-hot for whatever location you want hot water. If you want it everywhere.. then try: something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Watts-500800-Recirculating-System-Built-In/dp/B000E78XHG
I have no experience designing systems for residential, but I make a living designing plumbing for industrial/commercial/superconductor/hospitals, etc.. so I don't know jack about who makes decent quality systems for the home.
Maybe some kind of hot water circulation system, so you always have hot water when you turn the faucet on. Most of them seem a lot more complicated than that though.
> I used mine last weekend, since it was the first time I've been to a place that had a dump station that still had the end on the hose.
The spigot where the water comes out hook up to? This gizmo is awesome for those situations. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-22484-Water-Bandit-Lead/dp/B000EDOSKG
Check out water bandits for cases like this: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22484-Water-Bandit/dp/B000EDOSKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459265676&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=water+bandit
Yep, completely agree. You can't fix this kind of thing by hacking it. You need to get to the root of the problem and fix THAT. First thing to do is to run a garden hose down into the basement and fill up that sump pit. The pump should kick on well before you get close to the top -- maybe a little over half way. It should take only a few seconds for the pit to evacuate -- 15ish seconds.
If it's taking a long time (more than 20 or 30 seconds), then the motor is about shot, or it was too small in the first place. If the drain distance is fairly long (more than 30 feet), it's quite likely that the sump motor was too small, because people often don't realize that you need higher horsepower for long drains, especially if the vertical pipe is long. Honestly, I just install 3/4 horsepower and don't screw around. You're talking about a price difference of maybe $60, and it protects stuff that's worth a lot more than $60, so why fool around?
If it doesn't come on until the water is very high (like almost out of the pit), then the sensor is probably going bad and might intermittently fail.
Finally, if the power in the area is dicey (like if the power goes out any time there's a little rain), then you might need a battery back-up sump pump, or better yet, one of these.
there are also backup pump setups that run off a water main like this
A friend of mine bought a house with an electric one like you have and one of these as a backup.
Yes. Thanks for the recommendation. I'm not sure if it would be a viable solution for me as it states 12.5 gallons a minute. But, it is still a good fail safe in the event we lose power and don't have a river of water to compete with. Link for the model I just looked at.
My zoeller sump pumps move 72 gallons/minute each assuming a 5 foot up-pipe. My pipes are probably closer to 8 or 9 feet. I'm guessing I move about 120 gallons per minute during the worst storm.
Pretty stupid of the show as homeowners do employ surge protectors for water to protect possessions. I have personally purchased and installed a few of these on my old house which is on a well with waterhammer, and most home have them on the washing machine outlets.
You might already have air chamber shock absorbers, in which case you could recharge them: shut off the main, open all fixtures to drain the pipes, let it sit awhile, close the fixtures, turn on the main. See if that reduces the hammer, and then see how long it lasts.
Otherwise just install the screw-on hammer arresters at the washing machine and any other fixture that's causing water hammer:
Thanks for the reply. The reason for my question was the first user amd multiple other comments [here.] (http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-Mfg-660-H-4-Inch/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) Does it make sense?
"When you mount this device, mount it directly on the back of the washing machine. This way the cylinder is aligned with the momentum of the water column that needs to be slowed. If you mount it instead at the other end of the washing machine hoses, this is not aligned and the performance will be significantly less effective. When properly mounted, these are GREAT!!!"
I put these on the back of my washer. No more banging when the water valves close.
Thanks for the heads up I didn't bother to think about a sump pump on amazon now I am leaning to using this one with the same cip ball you mentioned.
A cheaper way would be a $1 10-gallon plastic tote with a submersible utility pump such as https://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Submersible-Thermoplastic/dp/B000X05G1A/
This is the pump that I have and I want to make sure that it is acceptable and safe to use. Any advice on this topic will be very appreciated.
This one http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Pump-91250-Thermoplastic-Submersible/dp/B000X05G1A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418884163&amp;sr=8-1
They'll just take some of the pumps from off the shelf. It'll be fine..
that grey water pump is excellent for a house, i just need a washing machine output used 2 x a week 1 adult+ 1 child in the house. bilge pumps look possible, and i lie the 12vdc power , the other sump/dirty water pumps are 110 vac, like this, $50 dirty water pump but they hook up to garden and hoses much easier
Well I just put hot tap water and pbw @ 114F through it instead of my usual 150F. Still pumping...
edit: I should add for google result purposes. I had this pump laying around from another hobby. It is barely powerful enough to do one tap at a time, I wouldn't try and chain multiple taps together with it. I have the pump in a gallon of solution on the bar top. It is pumping the solution into the chest freezer, out the tap, and back into the solution. So only like 5ft of tubing with maybe 2ft elevation. When this pump dies, I'll probably get something like this:
It is much more powerful and atleast it's rated to 120F. The ecoplus doesn't have a max temp rating, but the similar pumps at harbor freight say max 77F. So I'm guessing this ecoplus pump is not going to have a very long life span.
We bought this pump to drain our tub: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/
I haven't tried draining it with just gravity, but I'm sure it would take at least twice as long. When the pump runs out of water I open the drain valve and maybe two cups of water dribble out.
I got this one awhile back and have been very happy with it. recirculate into a large batch of ice water once running with ground water to cool it down initially. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
We used this one and a spare set of washing machine hoses - it was super easy: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X05G1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for the update! The discharge pipe is 1.5 inches, pit is about 22 inches deep, 18 inches in diameter. The current pump has worked fine for ~10 years now, but the power outage ruined that streak. I just figured since the 3/4 was essentially the same price as the comparable 1/2 I would go with that, didn't realize the other factors to consider that you mentioned.
I'm now debating on whether to go with a battery backup combo unit or water powered backup. Someone else recommended the Wayne WSS30V 1/2 HP Combination System which seems like it may be the perfect replacement. Looks like it recommends a 75Ah deep cycle battery. The one from Wayne is $270, but I found this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump for about ~$100. Would this be sufficient to use? That would put the system at about $550.
The other option would be to get a solo 1/2 HP pump like this Wayne CDU800 and Liberty Pumps SJ10 water powered backup. Comes out to about $350, but that doesn't count for having a plumber install the Liberty, and I have no idea what that would roughly cost, maybe you would know?
I think these are my two best options, just unsure on which route to go.
Fyi this is not the one I ended up with, I can't find the one I got. But this one is very highly rated. In any event, do your research for the one that's best for you. I actually hired a plumber to do the job through Amazon installation. It was.... ok.
Liberty Pumps SJ10 1-1/2-Inch Discharge SumpJet Water Powered Back-Up Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013H94MO
I'm pretty sure this is a whole lot cheaper, and we've used them for years.
or here for four dollars less! #
I had this when I was a kid. As far as I remember, it works pretty well.
I use something similar to this. The water comes up the way it does at a water fountain. I can wet and rinse my face without getting water everywhere.
I have this alternative to that. It works great! I don't have to have a skeevy cup in my bathroom to rinse after brushing anymore.
Yeah, they sell foam domes that attach to your hose bib and insulate it against the cold.
Your pic looks a lot like my basement and we have a valve on the inside for the backyard faucet
We don't have an accessible valve for our front-yard faucet so we use a cover like this http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-FC1-Outdoor-Faucet/dp/B001FG3C1C/
If this is your pipe, you may want to wrap it up so the pipes don't burst.
I spent some time in a mobile home where the plumbing is not well insulated. The pipes, especially the outdoor faucets, are susceptible to freezing unless additional measures are taken. We would cover the outdoor faucets with a foam cover for insulation, and use heat tape. The latter plugs into an electric outlet and has a thermostat to know when it needs to turn on to heat the pipe and keep it from freezing.
Those two items would provide decent protection at a reasonable price, but it wouldn't cost a ton to have a plumber replace the outside faucet with a length of pipe going into the basement where the shutoff valve would be more easily accessible. This is your permanent solution...
Ha, I know what you mean about the Aluminum tape. It just doesn't hold up as well as duct tape. I stuck with the aluminum, but covered it up with some gaffers tape.
I'm also considering switching to an outdoor faucet cover, particularly for shorter trips. It's much more voluminous but weighs <1 oz and is supposed to insulate much better.
What you're looking for is this
Cheaper (still functional) versions can be found. But they are going to reach much further than your solution, aren't disposable, and can actually handle something like long hair clogged in a shower drain.
You have convinced me to never even think the word "Draino" ever again. Do you think this looks like a decent hand auger for cleaning out drain lines?
Sorry I’m new to all this. Clean out? Like a hole to stick the snake into? And I’m not sure, maybe half inch diameter. It’s this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NFO528/ref=zg_bs_3226846011_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DW9SCGFK3C02EREPZV8X
The drain line runs about 60-70 feet from house to outside the fence. Probably about 2.5” pvc
Thank you for your reply
Zip it is nice, but for funky drain runs, just buy your own snake.
And definitely some sort of drain filter to keep your hair from going down.
If you ever have company over do them a favor and make sure you have a plunger in every bathroom. I saw that on lifeprotips a while back and it's a great point, then nobody has to be embarrassed to ask where the plunger is. I'd also add a drain auger to this list. If you ever get a super bad toilet or sink clog you can try to fix it yourself before calling a plumber that may cost hundreds of dollars.
I have this one and it has saved the day twice now:
One thing I learned as a new homeowner - if your drain is draining really slowly and drano/auger does not resolve the problem it might not be the drain! I just had to run this auger down a vent on my roof that provides airflow to the sink that had been draining super slowly/backing up for months. I had tried everything I could think of to unclog the sink before realizing the sink wasn't clogged at all, it just wasn't getting enough air to properly flow.
That isn't a snake. This is a consumer grade snake. Every homeowner should have one: http://amzn.com/B003NFO528
I dont recall there being a seal, but i suggest getting this pump to keep your tub a little more sanitary. ;)
will this pump fit this cetaphil tub? everything I could find only mentioned the cerave in the tub.
I haven't heard much about it around here... On the packaging note though you can buy tops with pumps that might fit the Noxzema container (I have this one for the Cerave tub) so that might be useful to you!
This lid is what I bought and it fits on my CeraVe in the tub!
This is the one from the main post.
They got different ingredients (and probably different concentrations) and the one in the tub is thicker. The one in the tub has Petrolatum while the regular lotion has Polysorbate 20 and Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate. I use mostly the one in the tub for my face.
I bought a pump action lid for the CeraVe in the tub moisturizer because I also prefer the pump action. Here the one that I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005N9BHQY
Here's the link to the other post, and here's the one I ended up getting on Amazon. Unfortunately, it's sold out right now, just like all the others.
This gizmoid. I use bottled water at home (skunky well water) so we thought there’s got to be a way to be able to have that convenience at a campsite!
Get a shower head with flow adjustment or put one of these before the shower head:https://www.amazon.com/K1140B-Shower-Shut-Off-Valve-Chrome/dp/B00HSWPYIG
I'd skip the guesswork on the showerhead and just get what you want. Install this before the showerhead. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSWPYIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K5ioDb57GPQP4
Edit: Take the plastic restrictor out of the showerhead if you end up getting the adjustable valve.
Install one of these and teach them about navy showers
Would something like thiswork?
That's crazy that the auger didn't work!! I used something like this (picked it up at Walmart or Meijer for less than $2) and it was the only thing to work on my clogged drain! Probably wouldn't help if your auger didn't though.
I have been so tempted to just ask my parents to deal with the concrete crack...but no, this isn't their house so I shouldn't take advantage of their kindness. At least our kids will be able to enjoy the blissful ignorance for a while!
It could just be hair clogging it up. Try one of these:
Cobra Products Zip-It Drain Cleaning Tool, 1-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OM31OOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_eD82wbPDS2J8X
By the way, they're like a quarter of that price at Home Depot.
They look like this:
There are a ton of brands, and you can usually find them at the home centers
Drain-O. Pour it down the drain and let it do its work.
Also, get one of these to get all the hair out.
I don't know for sure if this is your problem, but many times bathroom (and particularly shower) drains become clogged with hair at the trap or just below the stopper. If that's the case, get yourself something like this:
Flexible Hair Clog Remover
There are zillions of different brands, and nearly any place that sells drain plungers will sell some variant of these. They are really easy to use, and so cheap that if the caught hairball grosses you out too much, you can throw them away. They work great.
FYI DON'T use something like this AFTER you've poured draino into a standing clog. Try the plastic hair clog remover FIRST. Good luck!
Sorry to be so slow replying. I had the same problem -- this is the only one that I have found that had an acceptable catch vs flood ratio. (About to re-order for myself after a few years; and trying several other new alternatives.)
You may also need to use one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DP87IF8/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_03_t_img_lh?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1
to clean out the current clogs.
These are amazing.
Like this set on Amazon ($2 each)
Please don't use Drano...ever! It's highly corrosive (obviously) and, while it might help if there is organic matter blocking the drain, if it doesn't clear the drain, either you or a plumber will have to pull the drain apart, which is now filled with corrosive acid.
Your drain is definitely clogged (probably in the trap). First thing you can do is get a super cheap plastic drain snake and give that a try.
/u/Kravnafa14 has the right idea. If it's old enough and seized up so you can't get it off, maybe try running one of those cheap disposable "hair snake" things, should be able to make the gap. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8
I would follow up with Thrift, it's an EXCELLENT product, I cannot recommend it enough. It is not nearly as harsh as drano etc, works well for maintenance as well. I keep a giant bottle on hand to run down my drains a few times a year. https://www.amazon.com/Thrift-Alkaline-1-Pound-Granular-Cleaner/dp/B005E0K7FY?th=1 it will eat up hair pretty well.
y'all need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Drain-Snake-Remover-Cleaning/dp/B01DP87IF8 . You can get them at most hardware stores and Walmarts, too.
Get one of these for like a dollar or two, they have them at walmart, home depot, amazon, etc.
99% of the time with a bathroom sink or shower that will fix it.
Gotta get a 3 pack of disposable drain snakes.
I’ve since outgrown my own shower=masturbate habit, but I still battle my wife’s hair in the drain. Doesn’t make me wanna hurl any less but it’s a bit more practical than kitchen utensils.
According to /r/Plumbing don't use Drain-O or any chemicals to fix a slow drain.
Use a plunger first.
Then one of those plastic snakes
Then use a snake
Then call a plumber
Here is the mobile version of your link
Clearing the shower drain is by far the worst task as far as grossness to impressiveness ratio.
"Oh, i dont have to stand in a quarter inch of water by the end of my shower... yay, thanks i guess..."
"OMG you took out the stack of amazon boxes thats been piling up for a month, the apartment looks amazing!"
I just got these and jammed one down there, i figure in a couple to three months ill just pull it out and everything will come with it and i can just throw the whole mass away.
How do girls shed so much? I have thick hair, but i feel like id be bald if there were that much of my hair stuck in the drain.
EDIT: Oh god, i just looked at the customer photos, hork...
Of course, don't stop believing.
Actually, this style of drain unclogger works very well.
Also try one of these for removing hair. They work great. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DP87IF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481656649&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=drain+snake&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51hyyVtPE%2BL&amp;ref=plSrch
I got the one in the Amazon link below. HomeBrew Finds found a deal on fittings from Pro Flow Dynamics, and that's where I bought the ball valves and other fittings.
bayite BYT-7A015 DC 12V Solar Hot Water Heater Circulation Pump with DC Power Supply Adapter Low Noise 3M Head 8LPM 2.1GPM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fphaCbPTYYWHJ
Not the best but it works fine. Isn't self priming though.
Would you recommend something like this instead?
Also, not exactly related, but if you do decide to upgrade your rig to recirculating, it's not that expensive for a no-name chinese pump: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-BYT-7A015-Heater-Circulation-Adapter/dp/B01G305PK0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hot+water+pump&qid=1574359338&sr=8-5
I personally would recirculate hot wort through any cold-side or hot-to-cold side hardware if possible.
Also in re chillers, I put my chiller in to the boil with 15 minutes remaining, and pause the boil clock until it returns to boiling temperatures. Needs time to heat sanitize that as well.
Do you find it easy to brew 5 gallon batches in the brewers edge? I was actually looking at getting the brewers edge without the pump and getting a cheaper hot water pump and some tubing and using that to recirculate - something like this
If you or anyone else on the thread has tried this and could say speak about how well that would work I’d love some feedback.
hot water pump pump
800w souse-vide it seems the price went up on this one, maybe shop around for a cheaper 800W unit (I paid $55)
Eh, I bought this pump, and it gets the job done just fine.
Sadly...economics appears to have taken hold. This is the EXACT pump i have...but was 7.99 when i bought it...appears now to come with hose barbs, dc plug instead of just wire leads, and hose clamps...which dont justify the increase. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G305PK0?psc=1
Might be able to find a cheaper one...but bayite is the brand i used
Anyone use one of these? Wondering if it is okay to use for only water or water and sanitizer/oxiclean? I wouldn't pump wort through it, just the sparge water and cleaning solutions.
RAM-PRO 36" Flexible Grabber Pickup Tool, Extra Long Retractable Claw Retriever Stick, Snake & Cable Aid, Use to Grab Trash & a Drain Auger to Unclog Hair from Drains, Sink, Toilet & Clean Dryer Vents https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LM2L50I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h9umDbZ8BE573
If you know where the entry hole is you could try a USB camera (Amazon) and metal grabber used for picking up screws or bolts in tight spaces?
Assuming they didn't fall way down into the wall.
found one of these at a thrift store the other day...
I've been using a similar one about three times a month during my brew sessions for over a year now, I've never had a problem. So long as you have a GFCI outlet you'll be fine.
It saves me a ton of time getting to a boil on my gas stove top.
Edit: Now comparing this one to mine, I realize this doesn't utilize a ground prong (not sure if that matters) nor does it have the safety shut off if it's out of water, so this thing will cook as long as it's plugged in, brewday cattle prod anyone?
A bucket heater can add enough heat to do the trick, I used this one for several years on my weak stovetop - http://www.amazon.com/Allied-Precision-Premier-742G-Bucket/dp/B000BDB4UG
Drain snakes really don't have to be expensive. I bought this one from my local walmart for $12 and you'd have to be pants-on-head retarded to not be able to figure out how to use it. I have to use it about twice a year, but it's a life saver for me because I have long hair which loves to accumulate in the shower drain. The only downside is having to clean the disgusting hair clog from it, but I consider that a minor inconvenience.
I've considered using a product called Zip-It which would work just as well on a hair clog, but is meant to be disposable. If you can't be bothered with cleaning a drain snake, and don't need to unclog your drain often, at $5 per, it could be worth the added convenience.
Has no one ever heard of these things???