Best drum handling equipment according to redditors

We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best drum handling equipment. We ranked the 19 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Drum & pail heaters
Drum & pail mixers
Drum & pail deheaders
Drum & pail liners
Drum & pail facuets
Drum & pail lids
Drum & pail openers & closers
Industrial pails

Top Reddit comments about Drum Handling Equipment:

u/ShakeproofLA · 39 pointsr/LosAngeles

Hi, I run a business called ShakeproofLA and what I do is set people up to get ready for The Big One.

To set the stage, you have to understand that Los Angeles has, historically, had a major earthquake every 100 years, but right now we haven't a big one since 1857 when a 7.9 struck Fort Tejon.
So, add that extra 60 years to the amount of tectonic pressure that will be released when it finally does happen.

Now, what I'm going to say will scare the shit out of people, but here it is: When the next major quake hits LA it will be a major, major catastrophe. Thousands of people will die and the damage will be counted in the tens, if not hundreds of billions of dollars.

The water mains will break. The highways will crumble. The gas lines will erupt and fires will break out all over the place. It's estimated, worst case scenario, that 1/3 of the city will burn down, partially due to the broken water mains. If the earthquake is during a heatwave, those problems will be compounded.

The dust and smoke and pollutants (asbestos, etc) thrown up by the quake will cause further health problems down the line as well.

Downtown, all the glass in the buildings will break and fall. Except glass doesn't fall straight down, it floats down like a leaf, meaning that it will be thousands of razor blades slicing across the street. The fire department thinks there will be up to 10 feet of broken glass in the streets afterwards. Moreover, some 1/3 of the buildings in downtown could collapse, including many of the skyscrapers which were build using flawed construction techniques, during the 60's and 70's and 80's. Many of those same buildings are packed with asbestos, much like the World Trade center.

Scary AF, right? Well, I have a motto: "It's absolutely going to happen, so don't worry." All you can do it get prepared.

As the freeways will be out, there's basically going to be no leaving town. More likely than not, you will have to shelter in place. That being the case, you will need supplies.

Here's a list of ABSOLUTE NECESSITIES for you to have on hand. It's only a few hundred bucks and it very well could be the difference between life and death.

What I have listed are only suggestions and I'm not endorsing any particular brand over another. If you find something that does the same job for cheaper, great.

Have at least 2 weeks supply of food above and beyond what is kept in the freezer and/or pantry. Below are some options, but feel free to search around and find the best price/amount for you and your family

Food Option 1
Food Option 2
Food Option 3

Emergency Radios are a must-have and the wind-up type, with a flashlight cover multiple bases at once.
Radio Option 1
Radio Option 2

These jugs are available at any local Home Depot and will last for 5 years in storage. Do not store on concrete floors at it will leech, instead store on wood, cardboard or carpet only. You want one jug per person per week. Additionally, if you have a hot water heater, wait until it cools and use that. Be aware that the first water that comes out will be mostly mineral silt, so be sure to run it through a coffee filter.

The Lifestraw allows you to drink any gross water you find.

If you have an outdoor grill, great. That's your cooking platform. Make sure you have extra propane. If not, get a camp stove.
Camp Stove 1

Propane -
To be sourced locally.

Honey Buckets
You're going to need a place to poop, right? Get a honey bucket, or get hepatitis. Your choice.

First Aid Kit

I can't emphasize enough for people to buy these. N95 is the standard you want, as it will filter most pollutants. Buy these and don't get mesothelioma later in life.


Power Station

And the list continues. Have a car kit ready, consisting of water (I like VOSS water, as it's in glass, a couple Clif bars, a hat, sunblock, and old pair of walking sneakers and a space blanket. And dust masks. Don't forget those.

Fill out a FEMA Emergency Plan. and you'll really know where to go and who to contact in an emergency.

And that's the basics. Two weeks of survival supplies and FEMA will be on the scene, hopefully and roads will be open enough to get out of dodge.

Another good idea is to strap your furniture and TV to the walls, into the studs. I'd provide a guide, but that's my job, y'all.

u/[deleted] · 9 pointsr/Incels

Is that your piss/poop bucket behind your PC/Tower? It looks to be of decent quality but you can make a upgrade imo. I bought this baby and never looked back. Great addition to my incel cave. I can stay in my room for like a week without having to throw out the waste. You should look into it.

u/Num83rGuy · 9 pointsr/DIY

With a drum deheader.

It's a 55 gallon can opener.

u/admiralteddybeatzzz · 7 pointsr/TheBrewery

JFC, man, warm it up. This one's for 15 gal drums but at least you know what to look for.

Heat wrap it. Get a fucking diaphram pump. Anything other than what you're doing.

u/Watchcloth · 5 pointsr/smoking

Hey there. I've been doing some research on this because i am interested myself and am in no way a pro.

I think some obstacles could be the tools required, the paint, and the lid.

If you can make some nice clean holes for a fixed grill that would be better. If you fix the grill in place, however, you have to make some sort of contraption on the bottom to load and clean it as well as ventilate the fuel. You won't be able to hang meats or adjust cooking space easily.

The paint on that drum probably is not safe for high temperature which would require stripping it (firing it really hot and burning it off?) or painting over (don't think that would work).

You can get those clamp lids in this style:

but i don't know if/how these stand to heat.

TLDR: Yes, it just sounds like a lot of expensive work unless you have one lying around.

Good Luck!

u/completelyillogical · 4 pointsr/landscaping

This fence line is just shy of 90 feet and my setup works pretty well at that length. I used pretty small diameter pvc so it’s not much weight; I can’t imagine reinforcement would be needed for the watering— maybe for the vines depending. It’s not a raging torrent of water it basically is just a steady drip but it saturates pretty well when run in cycles and not run during the heat of the day.

My initial version of this setup was a single battery and small solar panel and it ran fine for a year or more (granted I’m in SoCal so we get a lot of sun)— I’ve since expanded a bit to a 4 battery setup and larger panel but just because I added two more pumps for covering other areas.

Here’s a picture of the control box of a basic single battery system with timer and a simple solar controller

Here’s some of the basic gear:

Water Storage

Current Water tank

(Although I’ve also used smaller/cheaper tanks like this for my vegetable garden, just might mean more refills depending on how often it’s run: )

If you’re looking to go super cheap, I honestly started my first setup with a couple modified 5 gallon plastic water bottles I stole from my office like these:


Current solar panel for a 4 battery setup:

Previous panel for single battery system:

Solar regulator (keeps you from blowing up the battery! The smaller panel comes free with one that works fine, I just liked this one better because it had more lights!):

Batteries, one is plenty for a single pump system:

(obviously if you wanted to build a system on the cheap you could bypass the solar entirely and drop $20 on a second battery that you leave charging and just swap them back and forth every week or three, depending on how often/long you run the system)


Current Pump:

Although I’ve also used cheaper ones like these for drip systems and they were fine:


Timer (has like 16 stop/start memories which should be plenty for any configuration):

If there is some interest next weekend I could draw up a complete wiring/assembly diagram and detailed parts list and make a separate post (and include all the sundries: wire, hose, clamps, filters, waterproof project box, couplings, drip heads, etc).

u/Sintered_Monkey · 3 pointsr/Homebrewing

I have a stainless Jiffy Mixer:

It was pricey, but it's 304 stainless.

u/FoodTruckNation · 3 pointsr/foodtrucks

They make tank heaters specifically for this problem. Any propane dealer probably carries one that will fit your tanks. When I had a seven kilowatt generator that ran on LP I used to have to take the 40-lb tank and put it directly in the exhaust stream. I had a flexible exhaust pipe for this purpose, same principle as flexible conduit. Worked fine.

u/GhotiOuttaDHMO · 3 pointsr/Vaping101

Pretty much. If you've ever looked at them closely, this is what it looks like broken down, which is a lot more than you need to do here but it'll at least help you see the anatomy of it. What you'd do is:

  • get the chimney off (the top metal part with the rubber gasket)
  • pull the wick (the two little loose white threads and the one big one that's threaded through the wire coil) out sideways with tweezers
  • twist/roll some wicking material (hard to describe exactly how much you should use but you should be able to figure it out with a little trial and error, it's not like you'll have a shortage of cotton/rayon) tightly enough to thread through the coil
  • thread some through the coil and lay a little more on top, untwisting/unrolling it just a little to expand it
  • replace the chimney, grab some scissors & trim the coil flush with the widest edge
  • place coil in tank as normal

    That's pretty much it but like I said before I highly recommend rayon wicks for flavor, so much so that I was dead serious when I offered to send you a baggie full for free, it's really that good and if it'll help you kick analogs once and for all it's more than worth it even if you don't pay it forward eventually (though I would ask you do that if/when you're able, the little baggie will last you at least a few months but the $15 box my wife and I have will last us several years even if we give away 3/4 of it).

    Also, if you really want to save a lot of money (and possibly get a new hobby lol), look in to making your own ejuice. It's only as difficult as you want it to be, it can be as simple as mixing two ingredients in a bottle^(1), or you can scale up the complexity as much as you like^(2).

    Hope this helps!

    ^([1] One quick example, say you really like )^(MBV's Banana Cream Pie)^( and want to keep your nicotine around 9mg/mL, just mix 24mL of )^(12mg base)^( with 6mL of )^(BCP flavor)^( and that's it!
    [2] cheapest way to go is getting )^(100mg/mL nicotine base)^( and get )^(straight VG)^( and )^(PG)^( to dilute it to your desired strength; plenty of recipes on /r/DIY_eJuice to get you started mixing your own concoctions, some with only one or two flavor ingredients some with more than six!)
u/L00K_Over_There · 2 pointsr/Traeger

I run Traeger brand pellets exclusively in mine and I've found that mesquite works great for nearly everything (chicken/pork/beef). I like using a fruit wood for breakfast and Ham's. I've never had jaw dropping success with Traeger recipes though with the exception being their 3-2-1 Rib recipe and I modify that just slightly to suit my own tastes. IMO Killer Hogs Competition Style Ribs blow the 3-2-1 Traeger recipe out of the water

For storing pellets I, fortunately, don't have limited space so I keep the bags in a storage bin in my garage. If I was having to store them outside I'd probably invest in a 5 gal bucket with an air tight lid. Something like this: 5 gal bucket with airtight lid

For Rubs and Sauces, I've had great luck with Killer Hogs. I've tried several of his recipes and they always hit the mark. My wife and kids are pretty picky eaters and they are always impressed. For white sauce I'll buy Gibson's, but you can also make their sauce from scratch as they've posted the recipe online for it. I guess the greatest compliment I've ever received though has been from my FIL. He's extremely picky, probably where my wife gets it from, and he raved of the chickens I cooked a few weeks back. Chickens have always been my weakness, but after finding a recipe from Killer Hogs I won't do them any different going forward.

Killer Hogs - Herb Smoked Chicken

Big Bob's White Sauce

I've heard good things about Meat Church rubs, but haven't tried any yet myself.

Another good rub recipe is Meathead's Memphis Dust

And if you haven't subbed to r/smoking yet I would do that as well.

u/hanielb · 2 pointsr/Frat

We've used heavy plastic sheeting like the kind painters use to cover floors. Then use really good masking tape to tape it down on the floor and about 2-3 feet up the wall. If you tape it right and keep the corners tight, it won't get pulled down even if it gets rowdy because the weight of other people standing on it will help keep it in place. Afterwards, just roll it up and throw the nasty thing away.

[Something like this.] (

u/backpackingzack · 2 pointsr/CampingGear

1. A 35L pack is plenty of space for an overnighter and probably enough space for a 2 nighter....depending on the season, your budget (for everything in your pack), and your willingness to forgo some comfort.

  • Season: If it is Summer or a shoulder season (late spring or early fall) 35L should be more than enough. You need less layers and lighter weight sleeping bag in the warmer seasons which saves a lot of space and weight. In Winter when it's colder it might be difficult to fit everything you need to stay warm inside a 35L, unless you are willing to spend some money
  • Budget: There are 3 different measurements for gear...lightweight, inexpensive, and durable, but unfortunately you can only have 2 at the same time. If you buy something that is inexpensive and durable, it is not going to be lightweight. If you buy something that is inexpensive and lightweight, it is not going to be very durable. And if you buy something that is lightweight and durable, you better believe it is going to cost you. All that being said, if you want to fit everything you need you a 1-2 night trip in the Winter into a 35L pack be prepared to pay quite a bit to get stuff light enough that will keep you warm enough and still fit into a 35L pack....unless you are willing to forgo some comfort.
  • Comfort: if you are trying to fit everything into your pack but don't have enough room, the obvious answer is either buy things that pack down smaller but perform the same (which means more money likely) or find ways to leave things behind. For instance learn how to tarp camp instead of tent camping. Go no-stove and cold soak all your food. Carry less clothes for "just in case" scenarios. And make sure everything in your pack serves as many purposes as possible (a stuffsack with extra clothes for a pillow, a pot that doubles as a bowl/cup, a spork, a pancho that can be turned into a tarp, etc.) Also switching to a down sleeping bag instead of the synthetic bag you are currently using will save you TONS of room in your pack. The caveat is that you will have to risk losing warmth in the down bag if it gets wet, where the synthetic bag will keep you warm if it gets wet. I have used down bags my whole life and have never had a major issue, but the loss of perceived comfort is still there sometimes.

    As someone has already mentioned most people start in the 65L range and I'd say that's a good place for a beginner to begin. You can always carry less in a bigger pack, but you can only carry so much in a smaller pack. If you are looking to get a bigger pack, the best bang for your buck right now is the Granite Gear Crown2. They retail for $200 but you can find them online for as low as $120-$150 if you look hard enough and are willing to buy a pack that someone has maybe used once or twice. If you want a more substantial framed pack I'd say go with Osprey. As much as I hate to support the big guys in the pack industry, their warranty is killer. Rip your pack...send it back for a new one, catch it on one, basically as long as you don't loose it or shit in it, they will replace it.

    2. Honestly at the $200 price range the Nemo is a good tent that you can find for about $150 at REI but weighs in at about 6 lbs. I'd stay away from Mountainsmith and Alps, in my experience, while they do offer inexpensive gear it is neither lightweight nor durable (Mountainsmith Morrison 2 is 5 lbs 9oz for $135 and the Alps is basically almost 6 lbs for $160). For tents I think you can't beat Sierra Designs, Big Agnes, or smaller companies like Hyperlite Mountain Gear, Zpacks, Tarptent, and Gossamer Gear. My top pick for under $200 though would have to be Sierra Designs. You can usually find last years stuff on sale super cheap, like this Sierra Designs Clip Flashlight 2 for sale at Backcountry Edge. It's 120 bucks and 3 lbs 14 ozs, less than half the weight of your current tent. Another good option is a good tarp and a bivvy sack, unless bugs aren't an issue where you camp, then just a tarp with no bivvy. For example I hiked the Arizona trail in April of 2017 and only carried an 8 oz tarp for shelter.

    3. Like someone else has already mentioned, a stove is as important as you need it to be. Here is a link to everything you need to know about stoves. I prefer a Homemade Alcohol Stove because it costs about 3$ and an hour of your time to make, and mine has lasted me 3+ years and 4000+miles of backpacking. Plus fuel is easy to come by and very cheap. While canister stoves are convenient and boil water very fast, they can also break pretty easily if you don't take care of them. My alcohol stove, if I bend it I just bend it back and it works fine. If you want to try a canister stove for cheap get This one, I also own this one (and about 13 others) and it works great for under $15!


    The last few things I'll say are that the frost on your sleeping bag is not dew, but condensation from your breath because your tent does not ventilate properly. I have never used a hooligan 2, but I'd guess there is not much ventilation and that the fly probably goes all the way to the ground on all sides. Also, and this is just my personal theory, but "footprints" are a scam. The reason a "footprint" is there is to cut down on abrasions on the bottom of your tent, not to make your tent waterproof on the bottom. Your tent floor should be plenty waterproof to keep weather out, and if you want some abrasion resistance just buy a piece of tyvek or visqueen plastic and cut it just a hair smaller than your tent's floor. I've had the same piece of tyvek for 2 years and I use it to sleep on 100-150 nights a year.

    Let me know if you have any more questions and happy trails my friend.
u/shortyjacobs · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I use this.

Jiffy Mixer PS-1 Mixer Blade 5-10 Gallon

It’s a goddamn beast. The cage is the diameter of a 2 liter soda bottle. Twists my arm when the electric brake kicks in on my drill if I let off too quick.

Dough in 26 lbs of grain in 10 seconds flat.

u/ModsCensorMe · 2 pointsr/CannabisExtracts

Fuck that junk man. Get a silicon heating pad from Briskheat or Omega, and plug it into a digital controller or dimmer switch.

These things are actually made for holding a temperature for hours or even days.

u/petethered · 2 pointsr/CNC

This is the one I use. When I have my dust shoe attached ( kentcnc ) , I've had it running for multiple hours with no problems.

The issue with it is the tiny capacity and since you are talking about fine dust , clogging of the filter/bag.

Willing to extend a little effort?

You'll need to get a lid and some sort of cyclone solution.

That's mine... quite litterally a pair of corner pvc with the 'extras' from the hosekit as adapters. The vacuum pressure was so high it was crushing plastic buckets, so the metal 5 gallon works perfectly.

It's not as good as a real cyclone, but space is at a premium for me.

With this, only the finest of all dust goes into the shopvac itself... I change out the cloth filter... well , not sure how to time it. I end up emptying the bucket when it gets to about a third full and every 3 or 4 empties I change the cloth.

u/R3SPIRE · 2 pointsr/Planetside

I'm personally a big fan of the Hydrofarm HG5G, but any food grade bucket in the 3-5 gallon range does the trick.

u/c4seyj0nes · 1 pointr/answers

$12 for a good grade 5 gallon bucket with lid on amazon.

Probably too big to put in a fridge though.

u/CannabinoidAndroid · 1 pointr/Futurology

Get a tool belt. Get a 5 gallon bucket. Strap the belt around the bucket. Store small tools in the belt and crafting supplies in the bucket.

u/Thereisnobathroom · 1 pointr/Cooking
u/Go_Cougs · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

Get one of these for your bucket, should hold enough for a low pressure transfer

u/bunnygn · 1 pointr/preppers

Thanks for the reply.

Will mylar bags be sufficient, or should I also try "sealing" lids, like the Gamma Seal Lid?

u/McFeely_Smackup · 1 pointr/smoking

I use one of these I even wrote "Turkey Bucket" on the side so my wife doesn't put potting soil or something in it.