Best electric outlets & accessories according to redditors
We found 1,373 Reddit comments discussing the best electric outlets & accessories. We ranked the 439 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,373 Reddit comments discussing the best electric outlets & accessories. We ranked the 439 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
I have a remote controlled outlets in my room, so that I can turn on/off any electronic device without getting out of bed.
Edit: Amazon is where you can get them. It cost me less than 20 dollars.
Edit2: How about you lazy assholes search amazon yourself for it, instead of pestering me for links! Should I visit your house and wipe your ass as well?
Edit3: Fine, if it will stop this. Here your goddamn link! I hope you choke on it!
Why in Sam's hell would you link to an image when linking to the product would be easier for interested/potential customers:
A bit more expensive, but I bought 25 feet of white LED strip and plug it into a smart plug. The plug is controlled by Alexa and also activates via a motion detector after 8pm and stays on for 5 minutes. Under $50 for the motion detector, smart plug and lights.
Here are some links to the set up. There are tons of different versions of these items (most are just rebrands from China). I do use a Smart Things Hub at home to manage everything, but there are hub-less ways to set this up as well. Check /r/homeautomation if you want to travel this rabbit hole. i also recommend setting up a SlickDeals alert for Zwave if you want great deals on smart devices.
Motion Detector
Plug (This is different than the one I use, but the least expensive option.)
Leds
Correct. That would be the monitor. For actual control functionality, OP would have to look into wiring the receptacle to a smart switch, like this Z-wave. I was under the impression OP just wanted more of a plug-and-play solution. The Z-wave is more involved and allows remote control, but is more of a "power user" kind of thing.
Replacing a few outlets with USB outlets. Just plug in and charge, never have to worry about finding the adapter again.
These bad boys for every lamp in the apartment. Makes turning on all the lights (in the morning, walking in/out the door, etc) a complete breeze. It's a real game changer.
Also, I velcroed my remotes to the side of my coffee table so I always have them handy.
One of the Leviton versions of this is $22.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C
You're buying 4 of the same type thing for less than the price of two Levitons.
Buy a real product from a real company that actually has assets to protect from liability claims arising from burning down houses from cheaply made garbage which incents them to make something that won't actually burn your house down.
Here's something that HELPS ... won't protect 100%, but helps.
https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-41081-4WP-Angled-QuickPort-Wallplate/dp/B003ATOCDO
When they do spill, it runs down the cable, but not into the jack itself.
Next is to put it tab up, which helps the ones with cables in.
Tab down helps the ones WITHOUT cables, so that's a 50/50 if you have unused drops.
If you're paranoid enough, there's outdoor faceplates such as https://smile.amazon.com/MM510C-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B001JEPX4Y/
Note: Both linkes are to smile.amazon.com because I do one of the charities that, well, smile.amazon.com supports. Swap "www" for "smile" if you are concerned about that at all.
RwP
I wanted to control my 240v AC unit too, ended up buying this:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nDbYAbHW5DMFN
I got an extension cord that would work for my AC unit and spliced in the switch. You could splice it into the cord from the AC if you want to.
Worked fantastic last summer.
It's like these
The ch1 means channel 1
I do agree that we need a standard DC power connector. On a side note, in the meantime I installed one of these in the shelf of my headboard. It's so convenient.
I don't have a pic of the finished product right now but this is the completed project before installation.
You need to find one that supports 3 amp charging. I have one of these and it works great. Something like the TOPGREENER brand outlets might be better if you are charging tablets.
If it's one of these then the black one is in a proper outlet too. The smh is that she used two USB power bricks instead of the USB ports, defeating the purpose of the new outlet.
The USB ports are too far apart I think to fit a pronged plug into them.
Good news! You can totally do this!! Look into smart plugs. Try and find one that let's you control it away from home as well and you will be able to turn each other's lights off (if you plugged a lamp in) at any time.
​
Be warned however that these can also be easy entryways for hackers into your network (usually to make you part of a botnet) so don't buy the cheapest ones and make sure to change all default passwords. Cheers mate!
Remote operated plug things - turn off your plugged-in things with a simple remote. (This 2-remote 5-plug combination is 48 cents over BUT they have a 1-remote 3-plug version). Total lifesaver.
I use these for my plug-in wall sconces and other 'ambiance' lamps around the house. They connect to an app and I have them on a timer from 5:30 to 11 every evening. You can also just control wirelessly from your phone.
I also use this lightbulb for my front porch - it's got a sensor to turn on at dusk.
I recently moved to a 2-story house with laundry in the basement and we use those giant ikea bags for hauling laundry up and down--works way better than our baskets.
One more thing...caveat I have NOT tested this out yet but it's in my cart. I think I got this tip from The Strategist but this buffer tool is supposed to be great for warming up muscles and massaging sore muscles! I have chronic, terrible shoulder pain and I'm praying this gives relief...ps this is not code for Sam from SATC and her Sharper Image massager ;)
I call those "Birds nests". Yours is the best I've ever seen!
I watch my printers with this Wi-Fi camera. I like it because it can see in the dark, and pivot to look around at my filament spools and other things in the room.
If things go haywire and I need to shut down the printer, I use these Wi-Fi power outlets. I have one on each printer and a lamp in the room.
Both the camera and outlets have iOS/Android apps and work great on my phone.
Switch cover from Amazon like one of these
https://smile.amazon.com/Mitzvah-Family-2202-Magnetic-Switches/dp/B01ATZDAWU
https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Security-product/dp/B00DUBOSTA
It sounds like you have a hot-to-chassis fault in your computer's power supply. It is likely that your TV is grounded (either through the plug or via the coax cable) but your computer is not, so when you connect the HDMI current flows from the faulty computer power supply to the TV over the cable.
Can you try connecting a different computer (before replacing the TV) to see if the same problem occurs? If it does not spark with a different computer then you need to replace the power supply in your computer.
If possible, I would also recommend plugging both the TV and computer into the same power strip/surge protector. If the wiring in your house has a hot/ground reversal somewhere then it's possible that you're creating a fault path through the HDMI cable.
If it is indeed a problem with the wiring (i.e. a different computer doesn't fix the issue) then I would highly recommend getting an electrician to come out and assess the situation. There could be a major fire/shock hazard present in the home's wiring.
Finally, I would strongly recommend getting an inline GFCI protector like this one to put before your equipment. It sounds like you do not have working ground at this receptacle, so you there may be significant risk of electric shock. This will provide some protection against it.
https://bosscontrols.com/product/boss-220-smart-plug/
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/
> A workaround could be using a smart home setup, which would require a hub, smart switch, and smart outlet.
If I understand OP's situation correctly, this $100 Lutron kit will have what they need to replace a wired switch and add wireless control.
But if they just need to remotely control an outlet, there are cheaper non-connected options with a simple RF remote like this $16 one.
Warm up your kitchen space with a butcher block table, maybe something reclaimed? Consider moving your desk as its the very first thing you see when you walk through the door. The living room/kitchen is a long space so no matter what your living room furniture will be a focal point. It looks like a nice updated apartment, I think an industrial decor with a splash of bohemian conversation pieces would officially make this place baller. Below are two photos that I think you should marry together.
http://www.renopedia.com.sg/products/blogimg/4801Industrial-home-decor-furniture.jpg
http://www4.pictures.lonny.com/lo/Bohemian+Living+Room+white+sectional+neutral+Ju6Ho_WaJ1xl.jpg
You should find a desk with some character:
http://cdn.homedit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Rustic-desk.jpg
(and some wire management wouldn't hurt)
You have some space near the entryway beside the cabinet, I like having a table there to place my keys/wallet/phone when I come home.
https://img1.etsystatic.com/015/0/6671391/il_fullxfull.426696237_o5vl.jpg
You need some huge art. If you have a Buddha in the can, you should have one in the living room!
http://myoshka.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/buddha_mural_2.jpg?w=510
I like the natural light, but does it feel like an operating room at night with the lights on? You'll need some lamps:
http://2i.c-b.co/is/image/CB2/GroveFloorLampAVF14/&$web_zoomTrans$&/1406251340/groove-floor-lamp.jpg
http://www.homestreetdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Standing-lamp-designs-113.jpg
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1907182050/Vintage-Personality-font-b-Table-b-font-Lamps-Water-Pipe-Light-Props-Bedroom-font-b-Bedside.jpg
Pair them up with one of these bad boys so the ladies all think you're a rocket surgeon:
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-ZAP-5LX-Auto-Programmable-Function/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417982915&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+outlet
You need a place to check out the goods:
http://www.favething.com/uploads/images/main-fave-images/mirror_framed_in_large_reclaimed_boards-1.jpg
The bathroom just needs color, consider more vibrant towels and floor mat.
Last but not least, green. Studies show, people with plants are happier. Consider taking advantage of all the natural light with something like this:
http://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/static.brit.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Hawaiian-Umbrella-Bonsai-Tree1.jpg
>7)These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes sir these will be bought. Good lookin out
You can get them at any Home Depot or Lowe's. This is what they look like). They are very easy to install, just make sure you've cut power to the outlet by turning off the respective breaker/fuse.
The leviton outlets are only $19 stateside, we don't need electricians to replace existing outlets (though some people are more comfortable having a professional do it).
That said, the newer 'C' specification tends to be inherently more expensive, so I don't foresee outlets with full 'C' power delivery being that inexpensive.
Very nice, could've gone with these outlets tho for more USBness: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
nice build, one thing though, get rid of that chinese receptical, its a fire hazard, they werent even bothered to clean up the edges around the "TR" letters in the mold, who knows how there quality control is of the actual electronics. get a Leviton one instead, they come in every colour
You should buy these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B1GHC58/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1411232589&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40.
I have installed these in my home and my parents and in-laws homes and I can tell you that they charge just as quickly as a dedicated charger. They supply a full 2.1 Amps and the most demanding tablets and phones only require 1Amp for full speed charging.
Also, you need to go back and install those outlets in boxes. The way you've installed them is dangerous.
Just buy an RF based outlet and be done.
here you go
or supposedly this bluetooth plug
You can either get a physical cover for the switch so people know not to turn it off or you can remove the switch and just join the line and load wires to be permanently closed and then put a blank cover over the switch.
Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519912082&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=vera+plus+controller&dpPl=1&dpID=31jWnlwJITL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
For your fish and your own safety, you should put the aquarium on a GFCI. You can buy adapters like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_sim_60_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=31s4w5u8lnL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160SR160%2C160&refRID=0B0YTWYAT9NVYTY8QP3T
If there is any current leakage into the water due to faulty equipment it will shut off the power.
I have this one - https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-Resistant-Receptacle-Type-C-4-8A-USB-Outlet-15A/dp/B01FREZ8VE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491405013&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+c+outlet
They also have this model - https://www.amazon.com/Charge-Charger-TOPGREENER-TU1152QCAC3-Devices/dp/B01N1T3IHF/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1491405013&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+c+outlet
Super easy to install. I had two defective units (anti-tamper failed closed) but they replaced no questions asked.
I am not aware of a way to wire a switch in a headboard that is up to code. You would probably need to attach the bed to the wall/floor so it is considered part of the structure, and any exposed wire would need to be in conduit. Can you put the switch in the wall?
Let me give you a simpler option if you want the switch on the headboard.
I have used these LEDs on a few projects. They are cheap and you can buy additional strips to extend them, or you can cut them shorter. Just make sure your power adapter has the current for the length you attach. They come with a remote which can turn them on and off and set the color and brightness. However, they remember the state they were in. So you could set them to a cool blue or pink or whatever she likes and forget about the remote. Then, with the wireless switch I linked, she can easily just turn them on and off. (you could always turn them on and off with the remote, but it's nice to have a switch because it is always in one place.)
What the other poster already said, it's USB-A -> Micro-USB.
It's only powering 5V DC @ 1000mA.
You're using an indoor device, and an indoor outlet.
If you really wanted to be 'up to code' you'd install an outdoor AFCI / GFCI outlet and a waterproof box like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JEPX4Y/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You would use the included 1000mA AC adapter and keep it waterproof inside there, making it AFCI GFCI compliant up to 2014 NEC code.
There is no RJ45 -> microUSB and RJ45 -> USB and solution that you're thinking of - the above is the actual 'compliant' method.
A 6-12 foot Micro-USB extension cable that's 12 foot is just fine. If you want to be safe, run it through some conduit for protection.
Challenge accepted.
-I followed BRUH Automation's tutorial to set this up. I immediately reprogrammed the outlets to custom codes. Home Assistant now has sole control over the outlets and I can re purpose the remote to be used for other commands
-I currently use the remotes to control automations within HomeAssistant. When I push a button on the remote, it is received by the 433mhz rx that is connected to a NodeMCU. The NodeMCU takes the signal received and published the rf code to an MQTT topic. Home assistant is subscribed to that topic. I look for the payload of each published topic and if it matches the button I pressed it will run an automation.
-These broadcast a rf signal that is also received in the same fashion as the Etekcity Remotes do. Then published via MQTT from the NodeMCU.
-I am currently using 2 white bulbs, 1 bloom, and 1 colored bulb. They are spread out across multiple rooms. I absolutely love the control you have with this product!
-The NodeMCU is subscribed to a topic that Home Assistant will published to when I tell it to trigger. This is currently in use to turn on the TV, Soundbar, and tower fan via Alexa. "Alexa, Turn on the tv" - runs a script in HA to publish to a MQTT topic. NodeMCU grabs the payload, my code determines the device, and blasts the signal - turning the TV on/off
-The TV remote has many useless buttons on it. I use these to also send commands to Home Assistant. For instance, I push button '1' on the remote. The NodeMCU processes the value received, publishes it via MQTT, Home Assistant looks at that payload and runs the corresponding automation - turning on the lamp in the living room.
-I currently use this with the emulated hue component. It works great for what I currently want it to do!
This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.
I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.
I have my entire vive setup (both base stations and link box) connected to a remote outlet I bought on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504725565&sr=8-3&keywords=remote+outlet
I turn them on with a press of a button only when I use my vive. It works great! If you can, I recommend doing this so the stations and headset aren't always getting power.
Depending on where you land on the spectrum of make something from scratch -> just buy something, this might be applicable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQELHBS/
There are a number of different brands and designs available too
All you have to do is plug in your appliance into one of these and set up one of the buttons on the remote to control it. You can control up to 5 things with one remote and it uses RF not infrared so you don't have to point it in any particular direction.
I use them quite a bit. You can go beyond the 5 device remote control if you're willing to get your hands dirty a bit. The protocol used in the communication is very straightforward and you can make your own RF remote that can send a more diverse set of signals that will let you control even more devices. I've taken if even further by having my custom remote connect to the home WiFi and now I can trigger the outlets from my phone, it's pretty handy!
You could use a Switch guard
This is for a decora style, but they make ones for regular toggle style switches as well
I bought these.
USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
Edit: formatting
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407732574&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+outlet
I would put a GFCI in the wall where you plan to plug this in. Then, get a standard sized outlet, but one that has the two USB ports and is Tamper resistant. Like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZhD5Bb0TBC6NZ
Or you could go for the straight 4x USB. The call is up to you. Having a standard receptical means you can upgrade or switch as your needs change.
Edit, forgot the box. Get a metal, gangable box for use with NM/Romex. You can also get a metal, old work for use with NM/Romex and just take off (or even use) the old work clamps. Sorry I can't link it now. But you'll see why it will work. Just wrap the ground from your extension around the wire, then go to the receptical.
[Onvis Smart motion] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KY6747N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_htnHDb5AZW23N)
[IDevices Plug] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U31IO3Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
[Vocolinc Plug] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LDTJZ8R?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
Just installed these! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FREZ8VE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would be looking at a issue with the power, measuring voltages, sometimes when there are wierd issues I use a voltage data logger over the weekend to see what the power is doing...but that's not a normal thing for people to have access to lol
On the cameras I install to be extra safe(as they are computers) I replace the electrical outlet with one that contains a surge protector like this:
Leviton 15 Amp Commercial Grade Tamper Resistant Decora Duplex Outlet with Surge Suppressor, White
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Commercial-Grade-Tamper-Resistant-Decora-Duplex-Outlet-with-Surge-Suppressor-White-R00-T5280-00W/206126043
Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iFVYDbF9FGRF0
It's a small investment that will help protect the cameras from surge and cant hurt
You could just get a remote controlled outlet kit for cheap. Not having lights in the bedroom can't be up to code though for a rental. This is something the landlord should fix and it wouldn't be very expensive to have an electrician wire in a couple outlets.
No it's not. I have had this one for awhile. A couple actually, and got them cheaper at Lowes.
Alright, here's a few simple things. Nothing very exciting, but I wouldn't go without them now.
The basestations are suppose to have like a 50k hour lifespan. Still, I had one of the rotors die and replaced under warranty. Now I use a remote switch like this one to conveniently shut down the lighthouses when not in use and extend their life. Also helpful if the IR interferes with anything.
Similarly, unplugging and plugging in the vive controllers to charge every use could eventually wear out the usb sockets. I use a pair of magnetic usb adapters similar to these which takes away that wear and tear, plus they are reversible and just snap in place super easy.
My basestations are screwed into the wall, but I also have a pair of these clamps which have been very useful and versatile when I've taken my Vive to demo at friends places, or the office. Makes it quick and easy to clamp them to a bookcase, curtain rod, door frame, drop ceiling grid, or whatever. Much better than the giant wobbly stands many people go for.
I have refurbished / reconditioned or otherwise repaired just about every component in my theater. The KEF speakers are all same era and generation, plus or minus a few years.
Front Channels: KEF 103/4 Reference speakers - owner replaced foam surrounds on the internal push/pull woofers - and I refurbished the ferrofluid in the tweeters. $175 off craigslist
Center Channel: NOS (new old stock) KEF Model 100 - found on craigslist. Someone found it in their garage, sitting new in box for 20 years. Refurbished the tweeter (ferrofluid replacement). $60 off craigslist.
Surround Channels: KEF C55 speakers that I found at Goodwill for $20. Complete cleanup - ferrofluid treatment of tweeters. Great condition otherwise.
Rear Channel: KEF Model 90 "center channel" speaker - bought this before I found the Model 100. Roughly the same speaker, but smaller tweeter than the model 100. Tweeter refurbed, cleaned up inside and out. I went with a 6.1 configuration because my room wouldn't benefit much from 7.1 - and the window placement made that difficult. Mixing 7.1 down to 6.1 doesn't change much. $40 off Craigslist.
Subwoofer: PA-120 Premier Acoustics 12'' Subwoofer had this sub for 8 years now, and love it to pieces. Very punchy, very powerful, very affordable. Weighs a metric ton - and customer service was top notch. (Amp malfunctioned after 6 years - got a new one from them free of charge).
Surround AV Receiver: Marantz SR6008 receiver I bought for $200 on ebay because it was 'for parts/not working.' The HDMI1 output (there are two) was burned out. Bought a new HDMI board from Marantz for a hundred bucks and the thing is good as new.
Speaker Mounts: The left C55 surround and rear channel are on custom made speaker mounts - the rear is half custom - mounted to one of the speaker mounts I got from Amazon.
Projection Screen: Custom 105'' Screen Frame and made from a canibalized Da-Lite screen I got for free from work. (was hiding in the plenum when we purchased our office space.
Projector: Benq HT1075 - bought new, because it's already so cost effective. Found it on sale at Frys for $699 a year ago. Very happy with this little projector.
Theater/Home Automation: Home Assistant running on an iPad 3 in the theater room. The iPad was sitting in a drawer, not in use for at least a year, and found an OEM apple dock for $5 on ebay for when it's not in use. I can control my Smart Things devices (z-wave dimmer) - MiLight LED strips behind the screen, in the EXIT light, and the bulbs in the uplight/spotlights in the room, I also integrated Broadlink RM2 support for controlling cheap 433mhz outlet switches for the air purifier, popcorn machine, and whatever else I need to control.
Movie Posters: Marketing department had a bunch of these frames in storage from an old PR campaign. Tore out the foamcore inserts, found high res posters, and ordered them on this silk-like fabric directly from China for $9 a pop. They look incredible up close, almost lithograph-like.
RGB Lighting: Generic RGB Strips I bought for $5 a pop on price mistake with Milight RGB controllers. Milight 9W RGBW bulbs I got for $13 each in $15 brushed steel uplights from Lamps Plus. All controled with the Milight WiFi controller through Home Assistant.
Seating was transitioned from the living room when we bought new sofas - raised the rear seating on 10'' platform. 12GA Speaker wire from my local wire wholesaler (similar price to monoprice). Looking for some carpet options - and have a lead on a local seller of OC703 for acoustic panels.
It's come a long way in a year - here's a before and after - December 2015 and April 2016 -- not the most recent, obviously - but I'm very proud with how it's coming together.
Depending on how much you want to spend, this could be done several different ways. Let's just say you want to keep it under $35... Here's what you might do (keep in mind this isn't exactly what you were going for, but it might be a better option depending on how you look at it):
Get the ZAP 5XL from Amazon for $30. It comes with 5 outlet adapters that plug into one socket on each of your existing outlets, and gives you a remote controlled outlet. These outlets are then controlled by a wireless remote that has 5 on/off buttons. The remote can be programmed to control multiple outlets with one button.
You could then surface mount a blank wall plate to the wall, and use a 3m command Velcro like strip to attach the remote to that blank wall plate. This would allow the remote to act as a stationary wall switch and also a removable remote control.
USB Outlet:
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU2154A-Charger-Receptacle-Screwless/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499615819&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+outlet
Wall Mounts (3x):
https://www.amazon.com/Skateboard-Hanger-Vintage-Completes-Scooters/dp/B013F8H51U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499615873&sr=8-2&keywords=skateboard+mounts
And lots of velcro tape to hold the AC adapter to the wall behind the board.
It would probably be a lot more generally useful and future proofed to just get regular AC voltage outlets with built in transformers and USB outlets.
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/
That way as standards change (USB-A won't be around forever and USB-C can already handle significantly more watts than A was originally specified for) re-doing your charging infrastructure is as simple as changing out an outlet instead of having to mess with pintouts and potentially re-running wire.
Possibly https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
With a short nema 6-15 or 6-20 extension cord cut in half.
Or something simple like
https://www.amazon.com/Gro1-Single-Outlet-Mechanical-Timer/dp/B004OH0EUQ
You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).
However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/
Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:
That's already 3x the cost of the kit, not including your time to learn what you need to in order to get HA running & doing what you want it to.
I use one of these for an air compressor ( Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4tTTDb0JXP8HA )
I am using iHome and iDevices. Works with HomeKit, Alexa, and Google Assistant. The iDevices I have gives me power consumption details. Both cost $30.
iDevices
iHome
We have several [Smart Life power plugs] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/), they do not require voice recognition -- anyone can say "Hey Google, turn off the kitchen fan" and it will turn off.
This or any other smart switch, combined with a setting in your bios called "auto-on with power" or w/e and you're golden.
4 for $30
The only reason I see to do a switched outlet next to the bed is for a lamp. You could make it "smart" by either doing switched outlet like this or do a plug in module like this. You could then use your phone or a z-wave keypad/switch to control the outlet.
To use Z-Wave you would need a controller. If you're into DIY programming Home Assistant is the way to go. There are off the shelf controllers like Vera that do this without major programming.
If you're getting into switched outlets and switches i'd recommend going with something not WiFi, as you don't want to clog up your network.
You could use a smart plug like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Initially, you would need to be on their local wi-fi connection, and they yours if their controlling one on your end, to get it set up. Once it's configured you can control it from anywhere using the app on your phone.
Yeah, the tree is controlled by a basic Google home compatible smart plug (this one to be exact )
The TV is controlled by a Chromecast. You just have to make sure the TV has HDMI-CEC enabled, and the Chromecast has to be powered from the wall rather than from the TV.
In my Google Assistant routine I just gave the command "play fireplace on living room TV" and it plays that video. This probably isn't the most foolproof cause it may decide that I mean a different video at some point in the future but 🤷♀️
Agreed about the automatic timer, I found this one on Amazon just now for $9 link
Really annoying when you're not given a light switch, especially for a bedroom! My suggestion is to [purchase one of these] (http://www.amazon.com/Westek-RFK100LC-RFK101LC-Mounted-Receiver/dp/B000HJBE68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409074101&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+switch+outlet) and then use this for your "main light" in the room.
Next time for some window treatments. Since you're renting, I assume you don't want to invest too much, so how about some drapes in a color (other than grey) to give the room some umph. Here's three examples ([one] (http://www.potterybarnkids.com/products/sailcloth-blackout-panel/?pkey=cwindow-panels&), two, three) from pottery barn kids (they're having a sale), just for examples. That said, drapes come in all colors and price points, so find something that makes you happy.
Now, lastly, lets get some stuff on those walls of yours! Get 3-4 pieces that compliment eachother. Maybe all [vintage travel posters] (http://www.allposters.com/-st/European-Travel-Ads-Vintage-Art-Posters_c50076_.htm) or [old concert posters] (http://www.allposters.com/-st/Concert-Poster-Posters_c17941_.htm). If budget affords, framing makes these things look SO MUCH BETTER. Ikea has cheap wall frames, if needed. Really, find a genre that you find visually interesting and get a few pieces that match. If you're totally lost, Ikea has sets of posters (some already pre-framed) that you can pick up when you're there. Makes it pretty foolproof...
Pro tip: drapes should match the color scheme of the pieces on the wall.
Ninja addition: get a throw pillow or two for your bed in a color that compliments the drapes and the new colors from your artwork.
The mirror you mention, sounds good if you like it. The mirror will help bounce light around the room, which is good, but doesn't add color. You need a little color in that room to help it out.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087EIDRS was the top result for a simple google search. https://www.amazon.com/Westek-RFK100LC-RFK101LC-Mounted-Receiver/dp/B000HJBE68/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483449120&sr=1-4&keywords=remote+light+switch was the second if that's more in line with what you're thinking.
That's a great point! I will have to get something like this now that you mention it!
holy crap they make a 3 switch version with a single remote... and its like $17 I'm sure someone here needs this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZTWYXY?ref=emc_b_5_t
No problem! The currently available frequencies are 315MHz and 433MHz. The one you choose depends on which remote control appliances you may already own, and the laws of your country. For example, 315MHz is very common in the US, but a restricted frequency in the UK. I'll be expanding to 868 and 915MHz control too once I can source transmitters/antennas for them.
A 315MHz North American switch set
A 433MHz UK switch set
Remote control switches for outlets. I believe this is the same model
Christmas tree light remote..
It overpowers all steam VR updates fo’ever
Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, Wireless Remote Light Switch, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k2IFAbYV9CP4Q
I actually was looking for the information on the one i bought to post after I hit submit on my comment. [Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FkNjxbPQZMPPN) P6OGMCD7 promotion code gets you $8.50 off right now, which gets it to $21.48 with free Prime shipping for five outlets and two remotes. You can actually do even better than interfacing with the remote, since the protocol is wrll documented at 433mhz, and you can just buy a couple dollar transmitter board and interface it to your arduino or RPi or whatever.
Exactly!
But honestly the small hangers they include are pretty good and running your light house up to a permanent place on the wall isn't a bad deal considering it gets rid of any space concerns.
But consider something like this as well - https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1551114394&sr=8-6&keywords=remote+switch
So you can turn stuff on and off from one area and don't have to plug/unplug each lighthouse when you want to use or put away. Something like this lets you just control power remotely. I had AUKEY ones that apparently aren't sold anymore so I can't link them. There should be some better ones that are smaller in my opinion, but it made turning off the whir/whine sound of the lighthouses much easier than plugging/unplugging them over and over.
So you want the other lamps to turn on when you turn on the switched outlet?
The sarcastic answer is: extension cords.
Non-sarcastic, I'm not aware of any consumer RF product that detects when an outlet turns on and sends out a signal to other smart plugs to also turn on.
I think the closest thing you'll find at the budget you're talking about are these Etekcity wireless wall plugs. I would forget about the switched outlet, and just use command strips to stick the remotes at locations you like, so all the lamps can be controlled by the remotes.
All the lights are connected to my remote switch. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/
I've used https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-Programmable-Wireless-Control-Learning/dp/B00DQELHBS/ to do the same thing and they worked great. I also had some older ones from years ago that I got working too, although it turned out that they used 315MHz instead of 433MHz, so I got added a 315MHz transmitter and now I can control both groups from the same Pi.
These things are your best bet. Then you just need to control the remote using the arduino, and nothing on your end is exposed to line voltages. You'll be hard pressed to source the parts yourself and build something cheaper than what you can buy pre-made.
Home automation is fun as hell too. You can get some RF outlets and an RF Transmitter and Receiver and hook them up to your pi and then install Home Assistant to control it all from your phone.
This was just one quick tutorial I looked up that explains it pretty well. I've got the same thing on my setup. You can program command line switches into it, so anything you normally do from the command line you can program into Home Assistant as a button. Backups, file transfers, ssh commands, bash scripts, anything.
So I've got Tasker and when my phone connects to my home's wifi it will trigger the job in Tasker to start the CL switch in Home Assistant called "Home" and it runs a bash script to basically send the RF codes to turn on power strips for computer/ monitors, send a Wake On Lan (WOL) packet to turn on my computer, send an SSH command to an IR transmitter to turn on my AC, and send an RF signal to turn on the radio. AND, if you set up your own OpenVPN server at home you can log in remotely to your local network and turn on your RF outlets from anywhere. Telling you, you can get deep lol. If you ever need any help I'll do what I can.
Dual Option Wall Switch Guard (3 Pack) Clear Rocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_MtqPl51JqD4sa
I have two Hunter Signal fans and love them. I have the remote "cradles" next to the swithces and use these covers over the switches so nobody turns them off.Switch covers
Just block them off.
decora
toggle
I just bought two of these off amazon. They charge faster.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_H9TbVFDANxL7s
You should get a replacement outlet with USB power outlets. Something like this:
TOPGREENER TU2154A 4A High Speed Dual USB Charger Outlet 15A TR Receptacle Screwless Wall Plates, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QStNxbDM025FE
I have a few of these installed and they work great! Link
Just check the specs. But since they are drawing from the wall you can get some solid juice. They usually tell you which standards they are compatible with. For example at the bottom of https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it has a comparison chart.
The one I have, as best I can tell, is no longer being produced (probably for good reason - there were a number of complaints about the zwave antenna).
It's direct successor is [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0)
There's also the Aeotec I mentioned, which is less polished but offers energy readings as well [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W)
u/jam905 linked me some instructions a while back to the relay he mentioned. In the end I was lazy and unmotivated so went with a finished product, but I'm sure it's a solid DIY. Cheaper and probably a little easier to repair should any one component fail.
You have several 220-240V z-wave choices that all work to control water/pool heaters and work with Wink:
Lastly, as u/cciv suggested, you can use a heavy-duty 240V relay whose coil voltage is 120V - and plugs into a regular 120V z-wave outlet. If you want something pre-built that does that, there's the ELK 9200 Heavy Duty Relay.
You could wire one of these in front of a plug:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501764708&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+labs+heavy+duty
It uses zwave so you would need a controller that can talk to the device. I use one of these to drive a 220V pool pump. Works well. It will also return other sensor data like current draw and temperature of the switch.
I would set the Mac mini to restart automatically on power failure (available in standard System Prefs) and plug it into one of these iDevice switches (or similar three-prong switches) that’s HomeKit compatible. (I own one myself and it’s worked great on my huge stereo system.)
Then just use HomeKit to turn off and on the Mac mini whenever it hangs. You or your wife can do it. If you have an AppleTV you can do it from anywhere.
I bought these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U31IO3Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Super convenient to tell my Dot to turn on and off my lights.
Is this what you're looking for?
I think wall outlets with integrated USB are a bad idea. The electric plug and socket has been standard for a long time and won't change any time soon. USB is a frequently-changing standard and the connectors do not last as long as electric sockets. Instead of powering off the circuit breaker to update to a new USB standard, simply unplug the AC adapter and plug a new one in.
I got these and have no complaints https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSTJST6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This might help, this brand almost literally helps power NYC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_GEtIDbR6AGP4M
You've got a ghost living where your camera is mounted.
Jk, I've never seen anything like this on my IQ outdoor. Since it happened to the last one too - maybe check the power outlet itself. Use a multimeter and make sure you're getting correct voltage. Turn off the breaker to the outlet and check the connections or maybe even replace it if it's old. They also sell receptacles with surge built in like this. Power surges or undervolting are just the first things that come to mind if Wifi connection has been ruled out. Did they replace just the camera portion or the power supply puck too?
Speaking of wifi, do you have it on 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz? A lot of people have been having issues with 5Ghz. I'm actually thinking about buying a second access point to run on a different 2.4GHz wifi channel dedicated to my cameras/IOT to take some of the load off my main network.
> but they plug in as oppose to being controlled by a switch. We still may install them.
If you want to use them, but don't want to wire (at least for now) you can get some fairly nice looking remote control switches for outlets. (Similar to this although there are many different styles: http://www.amazon.com/Westek-RFK100LC-RFK101LC-Mounted-Receiver/dp/B000HJBE68/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1395671730&sr=8-17&keywords=remote+control+outlet )
This makes it look like a normal light switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Westek-RFK100LC-RFK101LC-Mounted-Receiver/dp/B000HJBE68
Best bet is to get an electrician to install an outlet outside. They have outlet covers specifically for this purpose.
something like this ?
I found a lot of options by searching for “weatherproof outlet cover”
If you're okay with a relatively inexpensive wireless solution, Woods makes a pretty decent plug in wireless remote/outlet system. The outlet receivers are a bit blocky but for $20 it's hard to complain.
Well I guess it depends whats bothering me. If I'm sore from the gym or just stressed from school I smoke. Not alot. Just calms me down and helps my muscles relax. If I feel sick. I hide from the world. Also someone already said it, but bacon. or cheese or a combination.
"What makes me feel better"
Link. I've been too cheap to go buy this for myself.
I just use one of these. I hacked it to work with my phone, but I was too lazy to make a decent interface.
Here ya go: Woods 13569 Indoor Plug-In Wireless Remote Control w/ 3 Outlets, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZTWYXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fUUtybJ57CC5M
These were mentioned in another thread:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZTWYXY
Wireless on off switches for power. I got them about a week ago, they work fantastic. Take off headset, grab remote, hit 1 then 2 and walla... they are off.
I just use a remote outlet to turn it off completely after it runs the shutdown command. Then when I want to use it again I turn the outlet on with the remote and it boots up fresh.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087EIDRS
You can just unplug them, use the automatic power option or just leave them running. I personally just use a remote controlled outlet, like this. You only need to shutdown the master basestation and the other will power off automatically.
And you can move them while they are running, there are safeguards and the motors will spin down if necessary.
Lazy fix: www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Electrical-Household-Appliances-Christmas/dp/B0087EIDRS/
I have this once in a while, too. With both the Rift & vive. I think it may be related to USB power, but I don't know. I have my link box plugged into an outlet with a remote to make it easy to turn on & off.
Similar to this:
Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Fixed Code, 1Rx-1Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087EIDRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uTc.AbGQBNZX4
Get a remotely controlled electrical outlet. I have one I use for my Christmas tree. Usually good for 30 feet or so.
EDIT: [Here is what I am talking about] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0087EIDRS?cache=d30cc154f6d6e9276126bde37a212fcf&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1410395740&sr=8-6#ref=mp_s_a_1_6).
Hook it up to a plug in buzzer or light/lamp.
EDIT 2: How about a [wireless door chime?] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CMLAZ4?cache=d30cc154f6d6e9276126bde37a212fcf&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1410395938&sr=8-9#ref=mp_s_a_1_9)
Depends on how I want it to look.
If I didn't mind having a switch on the side:
I'd take a power strip, cut the cord near the strip part. Install a light switch in an electrical box on the side wire power strip to light switch.
If I wanted something less visible I'd use a RF switch with the power strip plugged in. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0087EIDRS/ (buy the 3 pack though, you find lots of uses)
> improve the contact points
In what way? What's wrong with the existing contacts?
> remote on/off button
Get one of THESE
Bought this dock:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GUDAFS8
Powered by this:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/ behind the wall.
if anyone is looking for them http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B1GHC58?pc_redir=1407651959&robot_redir=1
This + this
Note: All outlets like this, even z-wave, will make a click sound when it turns on/off, so keep that in mind.
I am not sure how your setup is, but maybe getting one of these might work?
But I agree that the lighthouses should have a switch.
I use one of these, and power it down using the remote. (When it is safe to do so)
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQDJJKU/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1500413791&sr=8-8&keywords=Wireless+Remote+Electrical+Outlet+Household+Appliances
Get one of these
I have a POE switch in the attic running to some APs. This has worked out well when ever I want to power-cycle it or turn it off.
I just bought one of these I use it for turning on the shop vac when I am using my power tools, I love it. They make several different types.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQDJJKU/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DQDJJKU&pd_rd_r=R4E6ZW2E3BMKEFJDGQP7&pd_rd_w=QjE9n&pd_rd_wg=T7gN6&psc=1&refRID=R4E6ZW2E3BMKEFJDGQP7
I personally use a hook ( http://www.gethook.io , $50 USD), which works as a wifi to rf bridge allowing you to use Alexa to control very cheap outlets like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS
It's not perfect, I do have to repeat myself occasionally, but it's tremendously more reliable than the wemo switches I have. Those etekcity outlets frequently have coupon codes that will make them a good bit cheaper, but if you only need to control 1-2 outlets, the initial cost of the hook may still make it not very cost effective.
If you can't use a sensing power strip, you can do what I did with my HS5s. Get one of those remote controlled outlet units like this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484561260&sr=8-3&keywords=Remote+control+outlet
Then attach your studio monitor power cables get to a power strip, and plug the power strip into that outlet. That way you can use the remote control to turn them on and off. Just leave the power switch on your monitors turned on.
Similar to what neuromancer_pl said: I have a little arduino-based remote that controls all of my lighting, TV, and A/C unit (obviously not anymore.. but I may extend it with a relay to work with my space heater).
For the lamp controls I use a 433 MHz transmitter to replace the remotes that came with these outlets.
For the TV and AC remote part I have two IR LEDs to replace each respective stock remote (used a IR receiver to discover which encoding to use for each).
Finally a HC05 bluetooth module that lets me talk to the arduino through an android app I made.
My mother is a retired nurse, and if you know anyone who worked in healthcare, they will tell you the last place they want is a nursing home. She would likely die within a few weeks, absolutely no exaggeration. So we have a nice wheelchair ramp into her home, plenty of rails in her walk-in shower, a nice seat and plenty of room to maneuver her walker. She has a push-button recliner and a handy remote control to turn on her bedroom lights and heater.
She is disabled, so I have to help her dress and cook for her and frequently pick up after her, but her mind is sharp and she takes care of her finances. It's just random things she needs help with, like her hearing and lack of dexterity makes it impossible to use automated phone menus, stuff like that. Every fall we buy cracked pecans that she opens to extract nutmeats, which helps her retain some range of movement in her hands.
I live with her now after years of rehabilitation following hospital screw-ups (some sent her to the ICU with organ failures due to hospital/facility incompetence). She has a much better quality of life and, again, both of us know she would be long dead if she were relegated to a nursing home.
The floor lights are just three fixtures from Home Depot with a PAR20 LED spotlight bulb. They are pretty cool to the touch, so I think they're ok. I may just upgrade the lighting with dimmable smart bulbs. For the patio, I'm using a 35 watt Grow Light from Amazon. It's temporarily hung from a hurricane shutter rail. All lighting is remote controlled with these.
It takes reading of water pH, EC, and temperature, as well as air temperature and humidity.
You can adjust how often the reading are taken. The shortest interval is 1 minute.
In the software interface, you can have set points. So for example, pH should be kept between 6.5-6.7. The system will automatically add up or down pH solution to keep that in balance.
Another example would be air temperature. You could say that the air temperature should be between 72-75F and it will turn on fans, air conditioners, or heaters to keep that at the correct value.
All external devices like heaters, fans, lights, etc. are controlled wirelessly from the Hydrobot using commonly found 433mhz wireless outlets like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/
Yeah, internet control will cost you.
I've used these around the house with good results. Local remote control only--might work for you.
Another option to switch the lighthouses on and off is to get some remote controlled sockets - something like these.
Hi there! I have used these types of switches in my home for about a year now and have only had a good experience! However, I have also always been somewhat perplexed about the sheer number of these various branded and non-branded switches available on various sites, that all basically seem to be made of the the same components. This isn't something you really see very often here in the US, mainly due to patent laws. I'm thinking that might really be the reason these switches, and so many other electronic devices from China, exist in the overlapping way they do - I'm thinking it's very likely able to happen due to poorly enforced or non-existent patent laws. That's my main guess anyway... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
​
As for my experience with the setup and performance of these switches, I initially came across them out of the necessity of finding a wall switch that did not require a common neutral wire. My home was built in 1950 and half of the wiring in my home does not have a ground wire and most of the circuits are not wired with a common neutral line, which has been the norm/requirement here for most everyone likely since sometime in the 1980s. Unfortunately, most WiFi connected "smart" switches/devices all require a common neutral wire. These have been a lifesaver for me! I found my switches on Amazon and have only purchased "Funry" and "Livolo" branded switches, the versions that work via RF signal. Originally, it seemed that was all they made (the RF kind), but as this IoT/home automation thing has really become such a big market noticed they started producing WiFi and Bluetooth switches, using the same housings and touch panels/exterior components.
Which leads me to my next thought - and I have nothing to base this premonition on, but I have a feeling / feel it can only be prudent to not assume that all of these switches, while appearing nearly identical on the outside, are of the same quality and same technologies on the inside. I have nothing to base this on, and most of these devices aren't certified by the various engineering certification groups (like UL here in the US) anyway and I'm sure some people would say to stay clear of them altogether, but inevitably having spent a lot of my budget on cheaper consumer electronic products made in China/other neighboring regions that are sold online, I've seen this to be the case. However, all I can speak to is the quality of the products from the two manufacturers I mentioned above and my experience has been positive. I mean, I felt they were at least well-made enough that I wasn't completely terrified to install them in my home. I've had no trouble with the switch mechanism itself, and the tempered glass panels do feel and look solid/of quality.
​
As for trying my best to help provide insight on your three bulleted needs laid out above - I do think it's possible for you to achieve each of those wants; however, I'd say my answer probably echos what I rambled on about above (lol), that the various functions and features can really be very different from one manufacturer to another on these switches, even though they may look the same, at least if you mean right out of the box. With a little bit of configuration (and sometimes a lot), you can connect basically anything to anything these days, one way or another. One problem with not going with a "name-brand" here is that you're also less-likely to get "name-brand" software/apps for the devices. But that may not matter. As I wrote above, the units I've purchased have all been RF-controlled models, so I had to buy a small hub/controller to work with RF. Prior to this Google Home/Alexa explosion, I'd already purchased tons of these wireless plugs/switches and had them connected to devices/lights all over my home, so buying a cheap RF hub and these affordable glass wall switches allowed me to turn what I already had into Google/Alexa-connected devices affordably, instead of having to start from scratch (just throwing that out there if you have anything similar in your setup). I imagine you're wanting just the straight WiFi switches? I can't give any feedback on the particular WiFi version of these switches, but I guess I can say if you find any on eBay from the two brands I mentioned, I'd feel OK about it for my home.
They likely come from the manufacturer with some junky/not so great, proprietary software/"app" that you'll have to download and use just to get the devices setup anyway, but if you can get them successfully connected to Google Home (or Alexa), then yes, you can turn them on and off independently and can also assign them to groups, for group control. There are dozens and dozens of apps/interfaces out there now to control IoT devices, so I'd have to say yes this is possible. Out of the box, using the manufacturer's app? I don't know... but yes, totally possible.
My RF versions, yes. I imagine the WiFi version of these likely can be Google Assistant connected, one way or another, if they're not right out of the box. But I can't totally confirm this one.
Now this question... based on my working knowledge of these and other similar low-end devices and how they operate and are built, it's quite possible you would not have dimming control with any variety of these switches. I think you'd really need to be certain to buy a model that clearly states it has dimming functionality. I don't believe the majority of these are designed for that - only for on and off. In fact, I have no dimming control on any WiFi or RF-controlled light switch in my home - only on WiFi bulbs I've purchased with dimming capabilities. It seems to me that dimming "smart" switches are only available from some of the more [recognized] name-brand manufacturers and their more expensive, proprietary lighting systems, pretty much all requiring some sort of proprietary hub to control them.
Not really. Those power strips are built as a unit and can't really be modified without basically starting over from scratch. You could use one of these to control your outlets, but I don't think they will all fit in one power strip.
Not sure if you mean a smart plug as meaning a plug which can keep track of things like how much power is consumed or if you just need an outlet which can be switched on and off.
If it is the later (just swtiching an outlet on and off) I've been pretty succesful with my project (so far) of using these Etekcity remote outlets which routinely go on sale @ Amazon.com : http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-ZAP-5LX-Auto-Programmable-Function/dp/B00DQELHBS
Mixed with the knowledge gained from this article: http://www.msilverman.me/2014/01/interfacing-with-remote-controlled-outlets/ it is pretty simple, safe and most importantly to me: cheap to interface the outlets to a wifi enabled device.
Definitely not plug and play by any means but there is no mains voltages to have to worry about fooling around with and if you get your ducks lined up outlets can be very very cheap compared to outlets which come with WiFi connectivity which seem to go from $30/piece to almost a hundred bucks a pop.
EDIT: for a more out of the box solution you might check out Connor Wolf's video here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjry28Ym7kI where he fiddles with a outlet that is capable of measuring power consumption... If I remember he does do a little work on the software side of things so that he doesn't have to use the smartphone app provided with the outlet.
Mine are on the celling but with wireless sockets. Make shure you don't move them while switching the modes or you'll have to recalibrate.
THESE ARE AN ABSOLUTE GAME CHANGER
Hook these up to a bunch of lamps. Turn them on right when your alarm goes off. Also useful for getting sleepy and really wishing that light was off.
I did the same except with these, slightly better per outlet cost but I use the other 4 around my house. If you just want them for lighthouses might as well only get two.
For anyone that needs em too - here it is.
They only work with the thinner switches. There appear to be some options for the wider switches on Amazon if you search for "light switch guard". For example:
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_8?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1511223225&sr=1-8&keywords=light+switch+guard
I'm guessing you're not in the US based on the wire color coding, so any references to the NEC would not apply to you. You should verify everything you're doing with your local electrical code.
>I would assume that pigtailing the yellow wire is still the best option?
Yes, cut the yellow wire in the middle and connect your now pair of yellow wires with the red wire using a properly sized wire nut. You would then put a rocker and blank switch plate over your now single switch.
>There's no switch cover out there that i can replace this switch with, that simply keeps the circuit "always on" is there?
You could do something like this to lock it in the on position if you don't want to mess with the wiring anymore.
I use these. Blocked but still usable.
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guard-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA
key word here was apartment. I wouldn't be doing any electrical work if I was renting. You are just asking for a heap of trouble. I agree that smart switches are way better but for an apartment bulbs are probably the safest bet. Rocker Blocker or Toggle Blocker work if you are worried about guests hitting switches.
Search for Shabbat light switch cover. You will find a bunch of options. For instance:
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Toggle/dp/B00DTXKOTM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.com/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=shabbat+light+switch+cover&qid=1570197758&sr=8-14
"Normal" depends on what outlet you buy. My outlets put out 4.0a total. Phones usually take 1.0a. Tablets usually take 2.1a.
TOPGREENER TU2154 4.0 Amp Smart High Speed USB Wall Charger Outlet, 15A TR Receptacle Free Screwless Wall Plate, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7GiSybK0SDJPM
Here was my solution.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ouISybSQ422WN
Amazon sells a version with two outlets and two USB ports for about $12 each.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU2154A-Charger-Receptacle-Screwless/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502483762&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+outlet+plug
CHEAP OPTION: Find a USB powered speaker you like and is in your budget and just get a cheap 2 port USB wall plug. I wouldn't mess with splitters/adapters when you're talking about power. It won't sound great because you really can't get a whole lot of power through USB. It only runs 5V at 2A which is 10W.
WHAT I DID IN MY KITCHEN: I bought one of these outlets to run 2x 120v plugs and 2x USB plugs. This solves your problem if you're handy. you get the 120v for a nice speaker and USB integrated to run your dot.
BETTER OPTION: Figure out a budget. If you're looking for under $50 I'd get the highest reviewed portable speaker that has a headphone jack on it. Get a 2x usb wall plug and 2 cables that are the same length and a 1' acc cable.
Not sure why you were down voted.
Anywho, these are the ones I installed around my house:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Easy to install, too. You don't really have to have an electrician do it although you can if you want to be safe. You can always watch a few videos on youtube on how to install these as long as you follow simple rules like "pretend the wire is always hot" (kind of like pretending the gun is always loaded, even when it's not).
Basically, shut power off at the breaker for the plug you're working on, take off faceplate, pull wiring out, take note of cables, colors, etc and connect them to new plug. My wires were white, black, and no-color (copper, which was ground/neutral).
I put these USB outlets in a few areas around the house where I typically charge my phone or am sitting for awhile - near the beds, at the kitchen island and drop zone, by the recliner and bar, etc. Make sure to get ones that provide a high-mAh output. Mine put out 2.4mAh at each port, not total. I didn't bother with QuickCharge compatible but you could.
I just built my house a few years ago and had Cat6 Ethernet wired to each room along with RG6 coax. I do wish I'd have had the contractors put in conduit to make running future lines easier, so you could consider that. (Home theater down the line? Run conduit so you can hide your cables and receiver elsewhere! etc.)
If you're handy or run power tools in the garage often, consider a subpanel for the garage with some 20A circuits. I trip my 15A circuits once or twice a summer when I have a shop vac, table saw, and maybe one other device running simultaneously, and when I eventually get into welding I'll be limited by my lack of 220V out in the garage.
If you want security cameras outside, you could think about running Ethernet out to some soffits and using PoE compatible cameras.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. Good luck!
I don’t know of one.
But just wanted to make sure you were aware of the outlets that has USB integrated. just one example
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/?coliid=IH4X85Z8CQ1KM&colid=21XFU1YN0E3BW&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This is only splashproof, so you may want to put it in a protected location or in a bigger control box, or go with the GE version.
Had this in my save for later list. Sold out now but maybe you can find something like it else where.
This is what I use for my dryer. It was the only energy monitor I could find for the high amperage.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GbEYAbZ9F3XTS
This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
I would focus more on the smart switch aspect and less on the monitoring aspect. You could get an energy monitor that is capable of observing total consumption of your home. Look at Sense or Aeotec, they both have products for that. I think they can both slowly begin to identify individual devices, their consumption, and alert you when they're on or if they've been on for longer than a predefined amount of time.
There's a broader range of products that are simple z-wave devices and don't focus on energy monitoring. However, 20 Amp zwave deives are a bit hard to find. Aeotec has one for up to 220v and 40amps, which may work.
Go Control has a similar product for 20 Amp 120 circuits.
The Aeotec ZW078-A is the cheapest 240V relay.
(There are DIY solutions but this is the cheapest, certified (e.g. UL, MET, CSA, etc.) product.)
Looking through the options I can't really find an affordable, convenient option for this that wouldn't be a chinese product with little support and that wouldn't be a huge headache.
Without knowing about the specific family of home control/ app economy you use its hard to recommend any of them at all but I can tell you what I would do for the highest quality experience and ability for expansion.
Buy a contactor like this. Put it in a box, put the plug into the box, put a light switch on the wall, tie it into the coil of the contactor. Get a generic wifi light switch that works on 110 that ties into Google or Amazon that's cheap and easily replaced.
This is the best full product I could find but it's zwave so you'd need a hub, it costs twice as much as putting a contactor in and you have to hardwire it anyway.
To be fair though I'm in industrial automation so my solution to most problems is to put relays in it
It's not an outlet, but Aeon makes a heavy duty z-wave "switch" which will do the trick.
https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W?sa-no-redirect=1
It will do 40A
My I ask what you plan on using this for? If it's just monitoring, there are very easy options. If you need remote on/off control, then this will do it, but you're limited to only that.
I bought an Aeotec heavy duty switch and an extra dryer power cord. I then unhooked the original cord from the dryer, wired that into the switch and then ran the new dryer wire from the switch to the dryer.
Switch:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
That one is a big boy of 40 Amps!
Picked it up on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1517711288&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
If you have an indoor junction box, then you avoid environmental issues and locate the switch indoors. There are a few high current solutions - Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch (40 amps) is one, Linear makes another. You can control it with an outdoor Z-Wave temperature sensor.
I'm not sure what kind of home automation you have in your house, so I'll just explain how I solved a similar, but not the same, problem via Apple Homekit. Then you can take the idea and transfer it to whatever automation system you have in your house. What's important is the idea, not the actually implementation. Also, what I'm going to explain is only applicable to #2, when the GFCI trips.
First. I bought a cheap electronic bird chirping ornament from EBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xelectronic+bird+chirping+christmas+ornament.TRS0&_nkw=electronic+bird+chirping+christmas+ornament&_sacat=0 . I plugged this ornament into an iDevices Homekit switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-Energy-Monitoring-Required/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510555381&sr=8-1-fkmr0&ppw=fresh&keywords=idevices+indoor+switch . The switch is usually in the off setting.
Then I bought an iDevices outdoor switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Outdoor-Switch-Monitoring-Required/dp/B019IJNKCS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510555465&sr=8-4&keywords=idevices+outdoor+switch and plugged the device I wanted to monitor into this outdoor switch.
I wrote a Apple Homekit trigger that turns on the bird chirp Christmas ornament when it detects the power to the outdoor switch is off. There is another trigger that gets executed when to turn the chirp off when power is restored. So, basically, when the Christmas ornament starts chirping, that tells me that I need to go and check the thing I'm monitoring. I could have turned on a light, but I wanted something audible that I could hear from anyplace in the house.
Try the iDevices switch: https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-Energy-Monitoring-Required/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542253852&sr=8-3&keywords=idevices+switch
It does not support IFTTT, but it supports Alexa and Google Assistant.
How about a power strip with built-in overload protection?
Something like this with built-in 15Amp circuit breaker (overload protection) and GFCI (ground/short protection). I think a GFCI is a good idea in van 120v systems since we can't properly ground our inverters.
(And here's the specs for that specific power strip)
I don't see any problems with using an induction cooktop if you can support. I've seen multiple people use them with good results.
Also, this is a really clean mockup! What did you use to make it?
EDIT: I'd also like to point out that there's a difference between surge protected power strips and overload protected power strips. They don't all have both. Also if you wanted, you could get a regular overload protected power strip and use a standalone GFCI adapter.
Then don't use it without a GFCI.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UOU6OVU
eBay as well.
I don’t think you’ll need something special, just something that is rated for 15 Amps.
If it’s possible, I’d keep where the extension cable and EVSE connect off the ground, in case of flooding.
If you’re really worried, you could get a GFCI on the outlet that will shut off electricity to the EVSE.
Extension Cable
GFCI
This is the one I picked up prior to powering on my SpaceBucket and I haven't tripped a breaker. $10 on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Note, prior to the SpaceBucket, in the place I am currently living (has bad wiring and circuits) and I was tripping breakers.
I never once tripped and i've been running my SpaceBucket(s) for over 2 months now.
Question: If I was interested in a wall receptacle, would something like this be a good purchase? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE
Amazon just released their own today:
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Smart-Plug-works-Alexa/dp/B01MZEEFNX
Might want to. $25. $125 would be insane.
Amazon Smart Plug, works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZEEFNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fGlPBb181MXVN
Do you have an alexa or echo? you can get a wifi-controlled plug socket.
It plugs into the wall. extension plugs into it...you have voice controlled socket you can give a name to.
For example - Alexa, turn off the Patio Lights.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Amazon-Smart-Plug/dp/B01NAXS22M
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Smart-Plug-works-Alexa/dp/B01MZEEFNX
If you later decide to remove the lights, you can re-use the plug for bedroom lamps or even a kettle.
Fill it with water and you've got a kettle you can remotely switch on. - very cool if you're on your way home and can turn on the coffee maker, so your coffee is just ready as you open the door :)
Can also do timers, so can have stuff turn on 5mins before you wake up for work so stuffs ready for you.
Nothing special. But this seems like it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZEEFNX?ref_=assoc_tag_ph_1524210667904&_encoding=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=pf4&tag=dealdetectors-20&
This is what I'm using
If you are stuck having to turn it off maybe get some wifi outlets to at least make it less inconvenient. Set up a schedule to turn off at bed time. Or leave it off most of the time and turn it on manually when you want to play VR, which you can do from your computer or phone instead of having to actually go unplug things.
www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSTJST6
Having above average senses isn't always the blessing it seems like it should be. I am a super taster and I can't really enjoy beer or other foods that others consider mildly bitter, to me they are very bitter. And food that others consider bitter, forget about it. I also have 15/20 vision but that doesn't really have any drawbacks.
Lucky my hearing and smelling are pretty much average, those two seem to be the worst to have above average sensing. Its easy to avoid bitter foods, but you can choose to stop hearing or smelling things, you have to change or leave the environment.
Is it safe to use remote outlet plugs so that the power to the rig can be controlled remotely?
I am an electrical noob but in my research I learned that its best to keep as few connections and extra steps in the wiring process. Will a constant 700+ Watts into each of these remote outlet be a cause for concern?
I really like my GE ones.
What I have under my cabinets is generic LED strip lighting plugged into a z-wave outlet.
But really your best bet is to go with another Hue strip for consistency in color and response. Instead of thinking of the rest of it as something you can't use, think about where you can use the rest. Some small-area ideas:
Yea, my room in my apartment only has a northeast-ish facing window and a northwest-ish facing window, meaning some of my plants that need a lot of light were pretty unhappy for a while. Highly recommend investing in some plant lights. I found some relatively cheap LED grow lights on Amazon the other day for $16 that seem to cover all the necessary wavelengths that plants need. Get some timers (or smart outlets that you can put on a schedule) and BOOM never again is there a cloudy day in your apartment!
And yea just to reiterate what the other guy said, water based on when the plant needs it, not on a set schedule. You generally want to water them very thoroughly and then let the top of the soil dry out about a centimeter to an inch down. You're trying to mimic the plants' natural conditions, which for most plants means that they expect a thorough bout of rain to come and drown everything in water, followed by a dry period of no rain for maybe a week or two (but again, it's nature, so this isn't a set schedule), followed by another thorough bout of rain, and so on. Succulents of course require less water, while some tropical plants really like being a little more moist all the time. Good luck!
I have mine hooked up to one of these wifi smart plugs. You can turn it on or off with an app, Alexa, or Google.
Try getting an outlet timer (there's even those fancy mobile app-controlled "smart outlet plugs") for the tank lights so you can set it and forget it - do ONLY 5-6 hours of tank-lights ON per day and it should be enough for the live plants while reducing/slowing the algae blooms.
https://www.amazon.com/Assistant-Required-Enabled-Control-Gosund/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/ OR https://www.amazon.com/WiFi-Smart-Plug-Outlets-Function/dp/B07Q1L6311/ - both plugs needs 2.4GHz wifi for setup + app "Smart Life App" then you can set it up to turn on & off the tank lights for 5-6 hours per day and will still be able to manually control the tank lights by the app.
Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zIIQBbBQTSF51
What I’ve been using for about 2 months and have not had one single connection issue. I’m very impressed. Also the cheapest one I’ve purchased. Doesn’t work with HomeKit but even being an Apple fanboy I’m not impressed by anything HomeKit related. I switch to Alexa and haven’t looked back.
I've got a set of these coming today. They use the "Smart Life" app but I would think can be integrated into ST or another app. I don't have much experience with time-based routines but maybe there's a repeating setting or maybe an IFTTT routine could help. At least these are cheap plugs you can use.
Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN/
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I already have this setup to control some LED light strips in my house but have to use it's app or alexa to control it. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079239CYM/
Also have a EUFY vacuum I haven't looked into yet - but I know it's in Alexa...
For the price I find that they meet my needs.
https://www.google.com/url?q=https://www.amazon.com/Assistant-Control-Function-Required-Upgrade/dp/B07FVST9YN&sa=U&ved=2ahUKEwjQv7Hksb_lAhVpc98KHcaGBI0QFjAFegQIChAB&usg=AOvVaw0Mqy82KmdoOBWB2I1u6s48
Can you post a link of the product? Is it just a plug for your wall outlet? Or is this replacing your wall outlet with something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07361JZ2H/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527299018&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+smart+outlet+zwave&dpPl=1&dpID=51io%2BzrZNKL&ref=plSrch
Whoa. That's scary. Not to hi-jack the thread, but any issues with these?
Teckin smart mini smart outlets. I just needed any-old smart outlets for turning some extra garage lights on and off via my phone when needed. There is a bedroom above the garage- so the thought of a fire is scary.
​
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVST9YN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I run SmartThings throughout the house and wanted to be able to remotely control the gear fan.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07361JZ2H/
I ended up finding the run timer feature was more useful. Now I hang everything up as soon as I get home, hit the button on the outlet, and that triggers the timer.
Mini Smart Plug Outlet Compatible with Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Requir... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Jw5XDbBJ9HXKA
Apparently this "Needs to be in the megathread." It's about garage door openers.
I don't get it: Virtually every option I've seen so far requires me to hard-wire a device into my garage door opener, which I'm sure I could do but would much rather not have to spend a whole afternoon on.
Meanwhile, I can buy a $15, battery-powered button that can be easily programmed to open and close my garage door at any convenience store, but you're telling me that no one has built that same simple functionality into a $10 smart plug that I can stick in my garage and program the same way? And maybe pair with a separate door sensor to tell if the garage is open or closed?
I realize this wouldn't be quite as good or reliable as the hard-wiring route but it seems like there are millions of people with older garage door openers who would snap up a $50 device that was as easy to configure as the thing they have in their car. Someone take that idea and make a bajillion dollars on Kickstarter, please.
I am told MyQ does this, but it's my understanding that MyQ is $80 and charges a monthly fee for some ridiculous reason. It is therefore disqualified and needs a competitor who charges a reasonable price for this very simple thing.
I’ve needed the same thing since I work from home and always thought one of those ‘ON AIR’ lights like this would be so cool: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0132AX0AQ/
You could mount it on the wall above the door and find a way to run the cable down the doorframe with some adhesive cable ties to hide the cord. Plug it in if you have an outlet near the door, otherwise run it under the door and power it in your office, then use a cheap Alexa-enabled smart plug to toggle it on/off with voice.
I recommend these smart plugs as I use them in my office: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/
Get a smart plug and a lamp.
First hit on Amazon.
Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0t0-BbZT9GKJS
Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are on sale today for $7 - does this component work with any wifi outlet or only the amazon one?
Mini Smart Plug Outlet Works with Amazon Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT, No Hub Required, ETL and FCC Listed Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket by Gosund https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/
Z-wave+ is the wireless communication protocol the device uses to talk to your home automation integrator (smarthub, Google Home, Home Assistant, Homeseer, etc.).
Here's a link for the switch recommended above: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CJ1ZRF/ref=twister_B07BN7X2M8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And a z-wave+ smart plug: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004AMB3CI?pf_rd_p=faa1d3e1-fadf-4279-ac2d-3096206e4690&pf_rd_r=0NWRC6V65QSFF1ERAR29
Though, if you're feeling handy (and if you're able to wire the switch), you can also get and wire a z-wave plus outlet instead: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Receptacle-Controllable-SmartThings-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/
Again, make sure any plug you get can handle the requirements of your fireplace.
It actually depends on what brand and model you get. As he mentioned, the essentials are lights, speakers and blind controls. Although my own version would be: Automated house lights, appliances you use (Coffeemaker, humidifier, smart oil diffuser, heater, fan, AC) which is a huge plus and maybe whole house speakers but if you don't have many speakers like Sonos or don't care for speakers you can also go for security for your house. I'm not sure you can get very good lights or so for that price range and have a hub or smart switch to go along with it so I'll recommend you things I own and find that are within your price range.
Smart plugs $30 for 4 plugs on Amazon they are very small and impressive and work with Google and Alexa along with IFTTT. Want cheaper? Try the same ones but it's one for $8 Here.
Or two sets of smart lights Here for $24. It also works with Google and Alex along with IFTTT. Most smart plugs will be used here. You can make many of your appliances "smart" with a simple plug. I, in fact, was watching this video right now about smart home gadgets by Rick Buck on YouTube. Very very informational about smart home appliances and definitely tells you a lot about smart plugs and how to use them
Currently there are only two ways to turn off the lighthouses remotely. You either need to have the Vive link box with the Vive still attached to it for them to power on/off when steamvr is on/off.
OR, you can buy a smart Wifi outlet and hook it up to one of the basestations (when one loses power, the other will automagically power off as well). This is the more sensible method than keeping the Vive hooked up.
Unfortunately the supposed bluetooth functionality of the lighthouses are a bit of a farce. You can't control them directly from your computer, which is why you need the Vive still hooked up.
Just get one of these for 12 bucks
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_pbVdBbWZ2PF74
Plug it in where you would normally charge your board. You can set a schedule, timer, remotely turn it on/off where ever you on as long as you have an internet connection.
I have one of these just to keep a timer on a light. Works fine and has given it's value several times over by now - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072ZX8RTZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can replace the outlet completely if you are OK with doing basic electrical work. This GE Z-Wave top plug-in is a smart outlet and the bottom a normal plug.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Receptacle-Resistant-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1512020409&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+zwave+outlet
Here are some options for a Z-Wave power outlets:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Receptacle-Resistant-14288/dp/B07361JZ2H/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-2&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Receptacle-12721/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-3&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DZR15-1RZ-Controls-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B01N6HT2YN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-5&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-DSC11-Sockets/dp/B00H3RL6JW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1509975700&sr=8-6&keywords=zwave+power+outlet
If your dropping new power or if you have an outlet up there for your projector already grab a normal short surge protector and swap out the outlet for a protected one Leviton 5280-W 15 Amp, 125 Volt, Decora Plus Duplex Surge Suppressor Receptacle, Straight Blade, Industrial Grade, Self Grounding, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GH0zxb01Y2BET
If you've never messed with power before grab an electrician, as far as the tv boxes generating heat separate them and out them behind the exhaust of the projector
[Leviton 5280] (http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6/ref=pd_cp_hi_1) I have used these in a number of projects and they are by far the best option in tight spaces.
Get one of these, a few feet of romex and a new work box and you should be good to go
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6
No I’m talking about in wall protectors
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6
something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5280-W-Suppressor-Receptacle-Industrial/dp/B0006I33Y6
Replacing the ceiling receptacle with one of these is also an option.
What is this controlling? Outlet or direct wire? If outlet Amazon has tons of them, like this Westek RFK100LC/RFK101LC Wall Mounted Switch and Plug-in Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJBE68/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_DZXAwb56D3PG7
Hmm..
You could get lucky, and the room in question could have a light switch that controls an outlet. Plug lights into the outlet, and you're done.
Or, since they come with an infrared remote, so you could control them that way. Just use the remote to control the lights.
Then, there are all kinds of solutions to control infrared devices, usually home theatre equipment.
Now that i think about it, this might have the advantage of preserving the settings, because some of these devices don't save the last light color/mode setting when power is cut, but don't lose it when you cut power with the remote.
Last, you could do a wireless light switch solution. They make light switches that have two parts, a battery powered switch that you attach to the wall (looks almost normal too), and a controlled outlet you plug into the wall outlet, then plug in the lights. example
I was just pondering a way to achieve this a few days ago. I haven’t tried it yet but I’ve settled on using the Hue sensor mounted inside something along the lines of
this for weather proofing.
When I lived in a wet climate, I put these outlet covers on to ensure the plug stayed dry. Never had a problem with them.
Put one of these on it .
outlet cover
Can something like this be used with the standard adapter?:
https://www.amazon.com/MM510C-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B001JEPX4Y
I suspect you'd have been better off with one of those outdoor socket covers that cost less than $10.
https://www.amazon.com/MM510C-Weatherproof-Outdoor-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B001JEPX4Y
My husband installed the outdoor box outlets on all the accessible ones that are inside. Then, if she somehow opened them we put the outlet plugs in. (she never did get in them but we did redirect if she ever got interested.. She's two now and never bothers them.)
Like these ::: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JEPX4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467742128&sr=1-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=outdoor+power+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=41JDtKQ1OVL&ref=plSrch
Sorry for the long link, I don't know how to do links on mobile.
How about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JEPX4Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503295268&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=weatherproof+outlet+cover&dpPl=1&dpID=41JDtKQ1OVL&ref=plSrch
Hmm, those are addons, i was looking at retrofit (actually replace the wall outlets.
Lemme check how much our addon ones are: ok, we can get ones like that for about the same price. Theyre not x10 standard though, and only work with their own remotes and the range is pretty short (10-20 feet) http://www.amazon.com/Woods-13569-Wireless-Control-Outlets/dp/B003ZTWYXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370554429&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+control+outlet
Those seem handy, thanks.
EDIT: Alternatively, I was thinking about something like this (maybe not this exact one) to cut power at the end of the day: http://www.amazon.com/Woods-13569-Wireless-Control-Outlets/dp/B003ZTWYXY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1464213295&sr=8-2&keywords=remote+control+switches
I have one of these and find it to be a whole lot easier.
Thanks for the response! This looks to be exactly what I want do. Really useful information. I have a comp sci background which a much heavier emphasis on programming so some of the electronics and circuit material is new to me. I already have a home server set up so I could utilize that. I had a couple of follow up questions:
I do not have access to an oscilloscope or logic analyzer and anything I saw online seemed quite pricey. Any suggestions on a bargain for one?
I was looking at getting these:
http://www.amazon.com/Woods-13569-Indoor-Wireless-Control/dp/B003ZTWYXY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1415756843&sr=8-5&keywords=wireless+remote+control
They seem pretty similar to ones listen in your instructable. I imagine there's a good chance that the sequence may be the same? How does the channel impact this?
What would I need in terms of a programmer, breadboard, and wiring?
Any suggestions for familiarizing myself with those?
This happens to me every once in a while.
I don't think it's a low battery issue either.
What I do is set up my Xbox to one of those remote control outlet clickers to mimic a force shutdown (instead of having to pull the power plug).
That seems to fix it, for me at least.
Interestingly, it only affects my Gears Xbox One S, and it never happened to my OG fat Xbox one.
Just, uh, make sure you know what button input is the Xbox on the remote clicker. Would be super trolly if someone turned off your Xbox mid gameplay on accident.
This is a random one I found on Amazon.
Lots of excellent advice here already cautioning against wiring up to your mains. I agree completely.
This would be a somewhat different kind of project, but why not plug the coffee pot into one of those RF remote-controlled outlets the hardware stores always have on sale this time of year for holiday decorations? Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZTWYXY/ - and then have your Arduino take over the job of the keychain remote. You'd just be triggering the relays already built into the outlet instead of your own relay board, by communicating on the frequency where it's listening for the remote instead of being physically connected to mains, even indirectly.
Just a thought. I am not an expert, but I would personally recommend against any modifications to your home wiring unless you are a licensed electrician - in which case I suspect you wouldn't be asking these questions here.
Concerning the voice interface:
Unfortunately I don't have much information about voice authentication. For the speech recognition there are a few ways to go. You can either use an open source project such as CMU Sphinx or simon, you can use a smartphone and SiriProxy (example) or you could offload the recognition to Wolfram Alpha.
There are of course many more options, those are just the ones I remember reading about. You should definitely do a search for "Home automation voice control" and similar terms.
I think an Arduino is a good choice for the outside interface. The Arduino can communicate with the "voice control box" either via USB /Serial, or over a network shield. Depending on how your software is organized, network might be easier.
For the individual controls, you will need to be more specific still. Look at the fan, thermostat, air conditioner and check how they are currently controlled. Is there a remote for them? Do they have some kind of interface exposed, is there a button that could easily be accessed?
There are many different ways. For example:
Lights
All these options have different advantages and disadvantages.
The IR controlled bulb will need the sender in the same room, and controlling multiple bulbs with separate commands might be tricky.
The RF outlets and sockets are a bit tricky to get to work at first.
The X10 control is the most robust and mature system, but also one of the more expensive options.
Directly controlling the lights with relais either requires lots of cabling or many small slave units that will need another way of communicating with the master.
These are all just intended as starting points for you. Usually for a bachelor thesis you will need to not just demonstrate what you used, but also what you considered and didn't use, and why you didn't use these options.
Why not just get something like these? https://www.amazon.com/Woods-13569-Wireless-Control-Outlets/dp/B003ZTWYXY I ordered similar a few days ago, but have had different ones for a few years and they work great.
Then this might be useful. I just found it by searching for wireless outlets on amazon.com, then selecting one with good reviews, and searching for its name and Raspberry Pi. There's also one of the good transmitters.
You know those remotes for Christmas lights that they sell where you have like stations A, B, C where you can turning the Christmas lights on with the remote? well, I have those plugged into my base stations so I can turn them off when I'm not using the Vive
Here's a link, but there's many examples
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZTWYXY/ref=psdc_6291368011_t1_B017LS4TE6
You can bypass all these unnecessary dilemmas with remote outlet controller like this $17 set.
No more waiting, troubleshooting, yanking AC adapters, embarrassment during demos and so on.
I have this add-on in the bedroom for the same reason. A very well-spent $11.
leave it on home page , thats the way to do it , doesn't slow pi or kodi down , thats how most people use it.
Only time it is ever powered off is on the rare occasion when it freezes , usually when i am customising artwork settings etc on a build, so to get around having to pull the power lead out to reboot i have one of these .https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087EIDRS/ref=sr_1_5/177-5705950-1692669?ie=UTF8&qid=1466194332&sr=8-5&keywords=remote+power+switch
or you can get something like this and push the button yourself http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087EIDRS/ref=pd_sim_60_17?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Ih0RapCkL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R9ZTTM6H5BZH9XTDFCQ
You can just plug your amp into a remote controlled outlet like this one. I don't know if that specific model is any good, but I'm sure that you can solve your problem without buying a new amp.
DILAZY - Plug TV into remotely controlled outlet. Drape some wires into rowing machine. Periodically hit the button to turn the TV on or off depending on treadmill usage. Enjoy frustration of children and their new found obsession with exercise.
The very first result from my Amazon search "remote controlled outlet" was a 1200w outlet
www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B0087EIDRS
Tungsten is a metal not a load rating.
I have a white noise machine for myself because it helps me sleep. It plugs into this guy so I can turn it on and off with a remote. I use the same remote for other outlets around my house, mostly lamps. It’s awesome. So you could get a remote controlled or Bluetooth enabled outlet and use any sound machine you want.
I have two sets of these that I've been very happy with: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087EIDRS/ref=dp_cerb_1
I never found a software fix for this. Instead I just hooked up my wheel to outlet switch and leave it off unless I want to race.
I have a T300 Alcantara so the pedals plug directly into the wheelbase. The G27 uses USB pedals, right? I'm not sure if the menu would be fine if it only detects the pedals and not the wheel.
Really, all OP says he wants to do is turn the light on or off.
Seems crazy to us in here, but probably time to consider old school?
The etekcity remote controlled outlet switch run $16, outlet switch and remote control included.
Amazon: (NOT an affiliate link)
Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Fixed Code, 1Rx-1Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087EIDRS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jqaYBbYQT7M8
This happened to me too. My TV is on the patio mounted too high to reach. I plugged something like this into the outlet that powers the chromecast and then just turn it off when im watching OTA.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0087EIDRS?psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/
It looks like [these are 2.1 each] (http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-TR7745W-BOX-Combination/dp/B00B1GHC58/) if that helps any.EDIT 1: On further reading, that is incorrect. My apologies.
EDIT 2: [These are rated at 4.0 (2.0 each)] (http://www.amazon.com/ENERLITES-Charger-Receptacle-Tamper-Safety/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=pd_cp_hi_2) which seems just about your speed.^1
1: And mine, they're going in my wish list.
This is what's on my Amazon wish list right now:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B1GHC58
Two outlets AND two 2.1A USB charging sockets.
Things not listed so far:
Electrical:
Add even more lights! Be sure they are well insulated (additional sealing after they are installed). Using a narrow beam (40 degree and under) and lots of cans will result in no glare from the lights. Pick the trim first (gimbal and straight down); we went with Juno 4" cans and Philips LEDS 8PAR20 F25 2700 & 8PAR20 F36 2700. Odds are your local electric supply house will have more LED bulbls than the big box stores. I would check Costco first though because their prices are hard to beat. Go on houzz for even more ways to spend thousands of dollars on lighting.
See if solar power is viable in your location. Payback can be 5-10 years.
Outlets in the crawl space and attic for pest control among other uses.
Outdoor xmas light outlets high up outside (controlled from a programmable timer switch).
Auto closet/pantry lights http://www.functionaldevices.com/lighting-controls/lightcontrollers.php; I would go for ones with a timer.
12vdc for outdoor lighting and under cabinet kitchen lighting.
Outdoor motorized blinds.
Fans that are in the attic for you bathroom & kitchen (a lot quieter); be sure they are thermally protected.
Hot water recirculation pump or point of use instant hot water heater as a boost for the bathrooms that are a long ways away from the hot water source.
If in the US, outlets where you store electric toothbrushes.
Retractable ceiling outlets in the garage.
Lighted mirror in the bathrooms.
Whole house vacuum system (a lot quieter).
Whole house surge protection.
Have a young one? Get outlet protection.
Instant hot water for kitchen.
Remote controlled lights for the master bedroom.
USB combo outlets for charging portable devices.
HVAC related:
Radiant heated floors and above vents for AC.
Did you figure out a solution?
I have the exact same issue I want to solve.
I've been reading and I just had the idea to put a Bluetooth adapter on a wemo switch (or other smart switch?) and have Harmony turn that on when selecting the Bluetooth/Echo activity. I'm not sure Harmony can do that natively, but maybe with the help of ifttt?
Thoughts?
Edit:
Seems like Wemo is not supported natively, however I discovered this IR remote controlled switch. I think that Harmony should be able to control that, and turn it on together with the Start Bluetooth/Echo activity. I think I'm going to give it a shot!
Edit 2 - nevermind, that switch is controlled by rf, not ir, and thus won't work.
from Amazon
Thinking about this:
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQDJJKU
Here's a simple idea that's electrical rather than mechanical...
Buy this electromagnetic lock and this power supply and this remote controlled outlet.
The bare wires of the lock easily click into the green plug of the power supply. Then you plug that into the remote controlled outlet.
The two metal parts of the lock magnetize together when electricity is present, and come apart when there's no electricity. The remote toggles electricity on/off.
So you build a box or use an existing door, and mount the two metal parts of the lock to it to secure it.
Players find the remote elsewhere in your game. Then upon clicking the remote they unlock the electromagnetic lock. For greater effect, install a spring in the box so that the box lid flies open upon clicking the remote!
Not without writing some very custom script, and coding your own program. you'd probably be better off using a Remote Control Switch and use the remote.
If you have some basic wiring skills, you could use LED lights like some mentioned. I went this route connected to a remote controlled outlet and it works great. I like the light bars since you can reuse them later more easily than taping plain LED light strips onto the underside directly.
Some cheap lights if you're patient and willing to give AliExpress a try: LED Light strip bars, 12V driver (it also works for 120V), sticky strips, wireless outlet and/or switched cord.
/r/HelpMeFind is also a good sub for this sort of stuff.
This may do the trick for you: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQDJJKU
You can just leave the light on then turn the power to it on and off with this remote.
Using Hook https://www.amazon.com/Hook-remote-control-outlets-Amazon/dp/B01ITSEU3C and wireless outlets https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XT4T9HSA4MEJSR1XEMPH
Will probably do it with air compressor as well.
Why not use these? Way cheaper and do the same exact thing? I control all my lights thru Google Home with these.
I got a fan hooked up to one of these. Might just try that when demoing going forward. Never thought about turning it on for demos other then as a way to combat VR motion sickness.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485373853&sr=8-1&keywords=etekcity+outlet
These? https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS#
I'd not, which ones?
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity®-Auto-programmable-Function-Wireless-included/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1/176-0348618-9065603?ie=UTF8&qid=1406080234&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+control+for+outlet
Very cool. I use something similar. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS
I've been having the reverse problem. My base stations will randomly go off while I'm playing. They don't do it if I have the sleep mode disabled. I've been considering getting some of these. Might work for your problem too.
I hear you about the budget. I went with some zap remotes I had around the house and the sonoff RF bridge (standalone is just $10).
You should, in theory, be able to uninstall it. I noticed the google home only takes a snap of the ewelink account. Meaning you can't make updates in the app and have google see them live. You need to unlink the account then relink it for changes to take effect. This btw resets all your google room assignments etc. so each new device added means reassigning and readding all the devices.
If you uninstall you won't be able to use the timers or other feature which are run by the app itself and not google. I said "in theory" because I haven't tried it myself. I use the timers to shut things on and off. I hoping google with update to have a workaround like a device scheduler.
I use those cheap eTekCity remote control outlets to shut my game room surge protectors on and off. I don't think I'm saving any electricity, but I sleep better knowing I don't have a dozen AC adapters from the 1980s plugged in, especially the ones that stay warm even when things are turned off.
This might work for you.
I got the 5 pack AMAZON LINK
1 - Computer
2 - TV
3 - Breakout Box
4 & 5 Lighthouses.
A bonus is when I turn the TV one on the TV comes on automatically.
I have a bunch of these that I use for my lighthouses, and just about everything else (lights, ambilight, guitar pedals, etc). They work nicely.
This one should work however. All you need is a 433Mhz transmitter.
Oh Wow! This just made my cheap home automation even cheaper.. This is my rig: a 2x $30 pack of 5 RF outlets and a $50 Hook that converts these outlets into smart outlets, with a $49 echo dot now i can control all my lamps and appliances in my home all under $200 with my Voice and my phone.. Loving it!
RF. Hes probably talking about these. It's what I use, I soldered into one of the controllers, and have the other one to use.
You can also directly control them with 433 transmitters, people ha e decoded the protocol required.
there’s many!
Etekcity Remote Control Outlet Kit Wireless Light Switch for Household Appliances, Unlimited Connections, Up to 100 ft. Range, FCC Certified, ETL Listed, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QxEDDbQ2E9H2J
Wireless Remote Control Outlet, Kasonic Smart Home Remote Control Multi Purpose Combo Set [3 Electrical Outlets + 1 Remote] Perfect for Household Appliances and Devices; ETL-Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BH5S222/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FyEDDbS64CY6X
DEWENWILS Wireless Wall Control Outlet, Electrical Remote On Off Light Switch for Lamp, No Interference, 15 AMP Heavy Duty, 100' RF Range, Compact Side Plug, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DT9QP8P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ozEDDbJQH2TZ8
What exactly makes up your $100 budget? Because a wireless dimmer switch is likely at least half of that.
Are you saying this bedroom has no light switch at all, and no fixtures?
If you have nothing but receptacles, and none of them are controlled by a switch, and you only have $100 in your pocket - I'd buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495475955&sr=8-2
and two or three floor lamps. They won't dim, but they will provide a nice light.
I am controlling wireless sockets with my pi and a 433 MHz transmitter and it works flawlessly, so might be worth a thought
If you are looking into wiring them to the gpio pins, you have to make sure you find a dedicated relais that is able to switch the voltage and current and can be used with the pi. But please be careful when handling those. Don't just cut the cable and drill and place the wires into the relais. Use something like this to make sure you get a good contact. You are dealing with a lot of power afterall.
Sorry, English is not my first language :D
I bought one of those 3 outlets with a remote at ALDI (but they sell similar ones online, see below). You can set the remote to turn on pairs or all three at a time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=psdc_6291368011_t3_B0000ERN8H
Just get one of these they're amazing.
Like an idiot, I wrote everything out below before I fully read your post. I'm not sure if a 50% would be possible with the below set up but it would make the shades 'smart'.
This should help you out. I'm in the process of testing everything out for my basement (working on finishing it now). I already received the Broadlink RM Pro and got it working with some remote control outlets. When I receive the shade motor, I'll let you know if I have any difficulties. Also, this video should help with some difficulties people have with the Broadlink.
Yeah if i did do that I would probably use some wireless outlet relays and just solder the GPIO pins to the remote control board leads. I've seen a few videos where people use relay boards but I don't trust my wiring skills enough to have uncovered wires exposed in a house.
If you have a smartphone, I'd say this will suit your needs depending on if the lights plug into the walls or not? The two links you provided made it somewhat unclear if it was wall switch controlled or overhead fan lighting.. Anyway, relevant info:
In the app (on my iPhone, at least, can't speak to Android but I believe its the same) it allows you to set up "scenes" where one button press can turn on multiple lights/tvs/whatever on/off. You'd basically plug the light into the Buzzi, leave the power to it always "on" and just control the power from your phone through the Buzzi instead.
I also have 2 sets of these they're uglier and less "high-tech" than the Buzzi but you get more outlets [5 instead of 1] for the same price. Only reason I didn't recommend those above the Buzzi is that you want to be able to turn on all 3 with one click (which the Buzzi will do, the ZAP would be on one remote but you'd have to press 3 buttons).. Depends on just exactly how lazy (or fancy) you're trying to be.
Truthfully, the Buzzi is still a beta product and the app can be kind of a PitA at times, but if you're just desperate to be able to network the lights together its a good fit. I personally would only recommend it if you are using it to control a device that needs an IR remote (ie a TV/radio) as that can all be done from in the app (and its pretty well done) - otherwise the nursing home-esque ZAP product is more than sufficient. The range can be a little shoddy, FWIW, but if you're in an apartment you probably wont have issues.
TL;DR:
Buzzi | Etekcity ZAP
---|---
---|---
Pretty/Stylish | Ugly
Only controls 1 device per unit | Controls 5 outlets from 1 remote
Integrated from smartphone/your current home wifi | Has a standalone remote
App can load slowly at startup | Remote is responsive, if a bit short ranged
Can control/replace an IR remote for TVs/radios/etc | Can't do IR, but you don't seem to need that feature anyway
Works over WiFi, no range issues | You live in an apartment, so this may be a moot point
Removed Amazon referral links, mea culpa
These?
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477964136&sr=8-1&keywords=wireless+on%2Foff+socket+adapters
What about RF Plugs with a remote, if you don't need them tied into your board:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1463366357&sr=8-4&keywords=etekcity+outlets&linkCode=sl1&tag=brau01-20&linkId=cacca3487d02a6935ba645567d014e9b
Why would you not want to use cheap Etekcity RF control plugs and then use something like hook?
I've been playing with the BOND for a few days and the BOND app has a section for 'Fireplace (beta)' (and other future device support). I had a few of these RF switches laying around the house from when I first started building my smart home (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522435481&sr=8-2&keywords=zap+remote)
so I tested it and it actually works! I'm using 2 right now. I have one plugged into a Steam Link and another into a Roku Stick. I teach BOND the on and off commands, and I discover these two devices in the Amazo Alexa app and I can turn these two devices individually on/off using voice. No more reaching behind the tv, or using the individual remote to activate them.
any chance of this working?
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453668260&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+control+power+outlets
They come with these.... Also with fairylights
Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Outlet Light Switch for Lights, Lamps, Christmas Decorations, Plug and Go, Up to 100 ft. Range, FCC, ETL Listed, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9nv3DbQFD96HY
​
Motivation behind this setup: There are no overhead lights in the living room. So the lights we use are regular floor lamps. The wall outlets are not connected to any wall switches. So we use the etekcity remotes and outlets. It's nice because the remote sits centrally located in the living room on the coffee table.
Here is my setup:
- Etekcity remote controlled outlets, 5pk set, with 2 remotes: amzn link
- I wanted more remotes, so I bought more: amzn link
But you'll notice that the remotes are not paired to the outlets. Yes, the outlets have a "learn" button, but ... You have to think of it like this, the outlet learns the remote's code, not the other way around. So what if your remotes (the transmitters) have different codes? it doesn't work. So the only way to fix that is to make all the remotes transmit the same codes. So that's where you go to this review on amazon and do some soldering "It's about a 5 minute job if you're handy with a soldering iron." If you're not confortable with soldering, this is such an easy job that you could find a friend that does solder and show them the amazon review and have them do it for you.
So now I have 4 remotes (transmitters) controlling 5 outlets. Each transmitter has 5 pairs of on/off buttons and each transmitter operates the same way.
Outlet 1: Living room light 1
Outlet 2: Living room light 2
Outlet 3: Something
Outlet 4: small reading lamp in bedroom
Outlet 5: Main light in bedroom
Transmitter 1: living room coffee table
Transmitter 2: on the wall by the door to the bedroom
Transmitter 3: My side of bed
Transmitter 4: Wife's side of bed.
(Bonus: if I'm in the bedroom in bed and forgot to turn off the living room lights, I can use the same remote to turn off the living room lights)
Then, I paired the RF transmitter/outlets with a "Hook". (This particular smart home device does not appear to be available for sale any more, but it's still working for now. An alternative appears to be the Broadlink or Sonoff). The "hook" connects to the internet and converts internet commands to RF so that my Alexa can communicate with the RF outlets/lights.
So in summary, I have a wife-approved smart home situation. The wife can use the remote or Alexa to turn on or off these 5 lights. Nothing gets messed up if a light is turned on with one method and off with another. The setup doesn't care.
I like to use these to manually turn them on and off. If you have an echo or other smart home stuff there are similar voice coms for that.
If you're comfortable with some python and working with a relay, you can pretty much roll your own with very little trouble. You can do voice control integration on your own, or work with Google assistant or Alexa. Even for 120v, you can intergrate something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
I bought [these wireless electrical plugs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQELHBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474653280&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=wireless+plug+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=41sAODwOCCL&ref=plSrch). I have 3 lamps in my living room and I can turn them on and off by pressing a button on the little remote. No more walking over and manually turning each of them on. It's so hard to find that little knob!
Will a Harmony hub work on remote controlled outlets?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQELHBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491084823&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=etekcity+remote+outlet+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41WGW5kir8L&ref=plSrch
I'll be using a small outlet remote to quickly turn off the Lighthouses.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Ah, gotcha. Yeah if they're all spread out that doesn't really work. They do make wireless remote outlets, though. That might be an option.
These are basically the best budget LEDs I could find and I tested a lot of different brands around that price range. I have 10 strands of these on my setup, essentially one per shelf, tied along the front edge, but hidden from direct view. That casts an even light across the whole shelf, as opposed to if you put them behind one of the TVs, the light was casting more of an aura effect that I didn't quite like.
These are also really great for casting a larger volume of light, say if you want to bounce a color off your back wall behind your monitor. Then put all your lights onto the same power switch and put them on a controller like this one. That's essentially the cheapest way to get a nice effect of whichever color you'd like.
I highly recommend you grab this. You just press a button and the stations turn on and off. I can even use it way across the house. Makes turning them off freaking quick and when you demo to people it looks cool to just (already have PC on) turn on controllers and hand them the headset as you press 2 buttons on the remote to power on the base stations.
I've had them for ~3 years now for my front room which has lava lamps and other light up geeky stuff. When I got Vive on launch, these puppies were ready to help make startup easy.
I had a same problem. I couldn't find a way to fix it. So I ended up buying wireless remote outlets like these.
I turn mine off manually w/ a Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Dual Option Wall Switch Guards (3 Pack) Clear Rocker Style
I've had a similar problem with a poorly placed switch. I already had a bunch of Hue lights, so I got a Hue Smart Dimmer Switch (Amazon Link) and stuck it to the wall where I wanted the switch and covered the old switch with a tamper-proof cover (Amazon Link).
​
No electrical work required.
I've been looking at ceiling fan options too. All of my fans are on multi switch circuits. One is two switch, another is three switch. Plus mine are all wired with the fan and light tied together. With both of those in mind I may never be able to use smart switches to control the light and fan separate.
I think I may have settled on child locks on the switches to keep them on like this:
Dual Option Wall Switch Guard (3 Pack) Clear Rocker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_q4nCzbZTRZC5D
With this fan:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/206648825
The fan has everything I want, and looks nice. Part of my motivation is one of my fans is really noisy, and both scream 90's. When I look at the cost of 5 smart switches, and two new fans, and maybe smart bulbs, the cost is pretty close, and the gardinier fans simplify everything a lot more.
Same line of reasoning for the garage door opener. My opener is 15 years old and last winter I thought it was dead. So I don't know if I should get a Zwave controller for $100, if I may replace the opener soon, weighed against the cost of an opener with MyQ built in. I'm torn.
[Rocker Switch] (https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/)
I used these https://www.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482935004&sr=8-1&keywords=rocker+switch+cover
Then I just used some 3M double sided tape and it looks fine. This way I can still have access to the light switch if I need to.
Thanks everyone for the responses..... This was my solution:
Step 1:
http://www.amazon.ca/Light-Switch-Guard-Switches-Shields/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454016617&sr=8-1&keywords=switch+guards
Looks like these guards are perfect; they'll be here next week and will frustrate my lovely bride to no end for at least a week BUT
Step 2:
Hue Dimmer. What a great product; easy to use, easy to set up and no playing around with electronics needed. I've set up one at the base of the stairs to just turn all lights on at full "soft white" brightness and one at the top of our stairs to do the same so she can turn everything off without walking down when the kids inevitably leave them all on.
Step 3:
iPhone 6 widgets with 10 scenes.
This appears to be what is going to work. Thanks everyone for the help.
Please don't do this.
This can potentially do 2 things:
A) Eliminate a redundant means of disconnecting the light fixture (that isn't the main breaker of your house)
B) Confuse someone that doesn't have knowledge of the situation
While this may not discretely violate code (breaker counts as a disconnecting means), it would provide confusion to the next person that owns your house.
The purpose of the electrical code is to primarily act as a guideline for proper electrical design / practice, but it is also meant to be used as a cookie cutter set of rules to provide consistency across all electrical installations and avoid confusion.
In your particular suggestion, i can forsee OP forgetting to wire the existing switch back in if he/ she were to move. Then the next homeowner will call an electrician in to ask why the switch isn't working, and the electrician will be confused because he doesn't know if the black wire leaving the box goes to the light fixture or is a jumper to the next switch.
[Please use a switch lockout mechanism] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DUBOSTA/ref=psdc_6291359011_t2_B0019KBYE6) or install a smart switch.
There are purpose-built switch covers for both trditional and Decora style switches, that attach using the existing (or extended) screws on the wall plate. I've used covers like these in several rooms quite successfully.
I bought this to cover the original switch but still can get at it just in case and have a Phillips switch for the Hue lights next to it.
https://www.amazon.ca/Option-Switch-Guards-Clear-Rocker/dp/B00DUBOSTA
I recommend something like this
Tada!
TOPGREENER TU2154A Smart Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet 15 AmpTR Receptacle | Screwless Wall Plates, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k4NxzbVXBY9RE
Comments on this one show it delivering 2A to both ports:
TOPGREENER TU2154A Smart Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet 15 AmpTR Receptacle | Screwless Wall Plates, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N75xzbE2XC9A1
That looks like absolute shit, like holy hell.
Couldn't even be arsed to align the damn things.
Like, for $20 you could accomplish exactly what he did, and retain your original outlets.
They look like this.
Here's an example of one with USB ports.
It's one of those things: There are probably more pressing issues in your house, but it's a relatively inexpensive and simple change. In my case, one of the outlets I'll use regularly is worn out, so I'm going to replace it with a USB-port outlet, since I often charge my tablet there. Over time we'll replace other switches and outlets in that room with the decorator style.
Maybe skip the brick and get something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_iy4nybNHD8GA4
I have and like this outlet a lot. Bit more streamlined than that outlet cover.
http://i.imgur.com/ZnToBim.png
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B00IAZIU5Y/ref=nosim/appleink
Blocking the socket is fine if you have it suspended above by magnets. Technically it's not even a permanent installation that way.
Yes you would need to install a new box, but you would need to anyways if you were looking to put the tablet at the right height with hidden power. And the box I linked is good for new work or old work so you could easily retrofit it into an existing wall. If you have a place to rats nest a transformer then you have a place for this.
Even better than a transformer is something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
Then just lay a thin QI mat on top
Sorry for not being clear on this.
It's currently a single unit with two outlets in it (like this).
One of the two outlets is "always on", the other is controlled by a switch (so you can plug in a lamp or other light source that is then controlled via switch at the door vs on the light).
I was hoping to swap the existing unit for one that included USB ports. I wanted to maintain the 1 outlet always hot, 1 controlled by switch configuration I already had.
According to /u/trekkerscout they do not make a receptacle unit that will allow that so I'll have to choose to have the whole thing be on the switch or the whole thing always on.
As far as the safety warning, thanks for the reminder. I always kill the power at the circuit breaker (and I make sure I do it myself, I know a few guys who have had issues because their buddy/dad/colleague killed the wrong breaker so I take extra care to make sure it's right) but it's a good warning anytime you deal with exposed wiring.
Sure, I'd get this receptacle instead http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
:p
Normally a fan of Cooper, but like this receptacle for USB. You can actually fit something in all sockets on it at the same time as long as you are not using a bulky ac adapter.
http://www.amazon.ca/Leviton-Combination-Duplex-Receptacle-Charger/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422235047&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=leviton+usb+wall+receptacle
Install this:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499740310&sr=8-1&keywords=leviton%2Busb&th=1 ?
This should do the trick. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00J3PMU4C?pc_redir=1409472304&robot_redir=1
There should be no issues. I was just looking into this myself and I found these guys at Amazon for a pretty good price:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I actually put this one in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J3PMU4C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It does not have a breakable tab though but thought I would show you one with a lower price.
I installed a zwave smart switch on my 30 amp circuit. I plan to add a zwave smoke detector turn off the rig in case of fire. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00MBIRF5W&pd_rd_r=C9NJXAC0D8TPSNBJ7A4C&pd_rd_w=DnHz5&pd_rd_wg=FBG47&psc=1&refRID=C9NJXAC0D8TPSNBJ7A4C
>https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
Have the 2nd one and worked great to control with a high voltage AC wall unit.
You want this: Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AgVADbSZ5ATQG
Then get a 240v 2 phase plug and a socket. Wire the smart switch up to the two. So you have plug - switch - socket.
Then you plug your air compressor to this new thing you just made and the new thing to the wall.
You will need a hub to control it.
Bonus you also get current and electricity usage for free :)
Amazon just recommended this to me: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523717827&sr=8-2&keywords=aeotec+heavy+duty+smart+switch&dpID=41F5PI7mPCL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
You'de have to cut the cable and put it inline, but it's designed for high amperage and high voltage.
Yeah there's a few of them out there. This one is zwave plus:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L2BizbK40W8TB
You can put an Aeon Labs ZW078-A https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
I use one of these on my Electric car charger and it works perfectly. Added bonus is it meters the power so you can report on how much heating the driveway is costing you
I also found this:
http://www.amazon.com/Aeon-ZW078-A-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Seems promising!
So I am just starting out in this wonderful world Home Automation and have kind of an obscure idea, but don't quite know how to get this to work.
I just purchased a SmartThings Hub, a 240v switch, an Ecobee 4 thermostat, and some window contact sensors. I unfortunately don't have Central AC, but there is a rather large window unit upstairs that I want to turn on if the windows are closed and the the indoor temperature is above 74.
Is it possible to build an applet within the IFTTT Platform that will look at SmartThings to see if the windows are closed AND check the indoor temperature before turning on the 240v switch?
If I'm not asking in the correct place please point me to where I should be asking this. Any help is appreciated!
Here is a discussion where a couple of options are discussed:
https://community.smartthings.com/t/240v-20-amp-outlet-or-load-controller/25104
including instructions with photos of how a user wired up an Aeon Labs controller to his similar outlet for a dryer and how to get it setup in smart things.
Are you confusing a two-pole switch for a three way switch? As SophiaSingsTheBlues notes, a double pole/two-pole switch is used to carry 240 V.
OP: I don’t know of anything for HomeKit, but this Z-Wave device, along with Homebridge, might help. You'll see in the reviews and Q&A that people are using it for exactly this purpose, to control pool pumps.
I don't remember who it was, but someone here was able to hook up one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
This way he could set up a schedule using the zwave software so the car would only charge during cheap electricity times. (Scheduled charging is good, but not very flexible. For example, if you tell your car to turn on the heat or a/c it will use wall power regardless of the time, and could use more expensive electricity).
You might (it's your responsibility to verify if that product will meet your needs) be able to hook this up and have it turned off, and you can control it from your phone when you want to use it.
If it's in the budget I would consider having the shutoff valve and the ability to cut power to the well pump. It does not take a lot of water to cause a lot of damage. Example: in my house the washing machine is in a finished space, If I were to detect a leak due to a blown hose there and simply cut the power to the well pump I would get at least 20 gallons of water into that room before the pressure in the tank would reduce enough to stop the flow. Conversely, having a shutoff valve would stop the flow almost immediately.
If you only have the budget for one, I would add the valve. The only failure mode that the power off protects you from that the valve doesn't is if the well bladder and tank were to both fail. In this case the leak would be upstream of the valve, and the pump would continually pump water into your basement. I had this happen to me once. Its sucks, but my understanding is that this is extremely rare. When I had the well people come out to fix it, they said that in 40+ years of digging wells they have never seen the bladder and tank both fail on a system. The problem is, that if you are not home to catch the problem, you could easily have hundreds of gallons of water pumped in. Luckily I was home. Although this failure may be rare, the cost of something like the module you link is extremely cheap insurance.
I am in the process of setting up my system right now. I have not settled on the electrical panel yet. The unit you posted may be overkill since it is rated for outdoor use. I have also been looking at this unit: Aeon Labs V3-26-AL001 It is rated at 40 Amps and also has power monitoring capabilities. So, if the pump is running more than usual it could indicate a leak somewhere where you don't have a sensor.
For the valve, I didn't want to fork up the $$$ for the Fortezz, but I was not impressed with the other options (i.e. LeakSmart, piggyback units...). I decided to roll my own using industrial actuated shutoff valves. I bought a Johnson Controls VA9203-AGA-2Z with a 1" valve as a new surplus item on ebay for $25. This unit has 10x the closing torque as the Fortrezz. It also has a spring return, so, if you lose power the unit will shut automatically. I plan on using a Z-wave relay to connect it to my SmartThings hub.
If found this this but it's $200. Not ideal. But they do exist so maybe you can find one cheaper somewhere.
​
Edit: Also this, which is a smart switch not a plug so you'd have to be comfortable installing it, or paying for someone to install it. Again, not ideal.
looks like they do exist
This isn't in wall, but this is what I use on a pool pump.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
No personal experience with it, but what about something like this?
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
EDIT: I red gud...just noticed you're hoping for wifi. I'm not aware of anything like that.
There are also other zwave plugs. Attaching a link to a 40a plug. Should give you more than enough head room on the switch.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LFq4Db4TJG0YD
This is the one I'm most inclined towards. Was hoping there were others who have tried to control water heaters, HVAC systems or larger appliances with some type of smart switch, and pick their brain a bit.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-ZW078-A-Z-Wave-Appliance/dp/B00MBIRF5W
electric? this is good for up to 40A
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
it would tell you the watts being pulled...
It's this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBIRF5W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've read in multiple places that it will work without a ground.
Thanks!
On Amazon https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-Enabled-HomeKit-Amazon/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469651574&sr=8-1&keywords=idevice+switch
and iDevices website https://store.idevicesinc.com/idevices-switch/?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Search&utm_term=Branded&utm_campaign=Switch%2520&gclid=Cj0KEQjwt-G8BRDktsvwpPTn1PkBEiQA-MRsBat4Ch5du8BfVbhRk7d6oRP0S4QqPmZeBEAWNSqpYKQaAsuQ8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
says yes it is. But I'm not having any luck either trying to set up from iDevices connected IOS app.
I bought the iDevices Switch just for this purpose. Works with Alexa and Siri. $27 on Amazon. Not sure if it works with ST though.
I think have narrowed down the problem. It's my idevices switches. These ones: https://www.amazon.ca/iDevices-Switch-Energy-Monitoring-Required/dp/B00U31IO3Q/
After unplugging them all everything is back online and working! My network is also responding much faster. Also Plume is now functioning much better. I'll continue to monitor.
Would items (1) and (2) below work with an Apple TV 4th gen to accomplish the task?
(1) https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-HomeKit-Android-Amazon/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480928409&sr=8-1&keywords=homekit+smart+plug+energy+monitoring
(2) https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Socket-Adapter-HomeKit-Android/dp/B01KP5V292/ref=sr_1_cc_4?s=aps&srs=12034488011&ie=UTF8&qid=1480929296&sr=1-4-catcorr&keywords=homekit+smart+bulb+wifi
I like the iDevices switches https://www.amazon.com/iDevices-Switch-Energy-Monitoring-Required/dp/B00U31IO3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504272864&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=idevices+switch&psc=1
Looks like they are on sale today.
The iDevices switches are also $26 and do energy monitoring as well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U31IO3Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.
While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.
I have already purchased this for the GFCI issue. I hadn't thought about the current capacity of the cord though.
At my work we have some nifty recessed receptacles but they seemed a little out of my price range for this project. The cheapest I could find was this but what I did has much more functionality for a similar cost.
Oh, I didn't realize. Hmm any of these is certified?
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00SJ7Z7DQ
https://www.amazon.ca/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/
https://www.amazon.ca/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-Commercial-Auto-Reset-Grounded/dp/B00UOU6OVU/
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000MM3Z6C
Also if you are unsure of how to replace an outlet, you can buy a GFCI outlet adaptor. Just plug it in.
https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufacturing-30439005-3-Wire-Adapter/dp/B00UOU6OVU/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00UOU6OVU&pd_rd_r=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX&pd_rd_w=lm9kA&pd_rd_wg=vDC22&psc=1&refRID=GQZ9YCVNQD0NK3CFP5TX
It takes about an hour for 2000W to increase 6 gallons of water by 100F. I'd predict that you're going to need about 2.5 hours to get to temp.
I've been mashing and brewing with a cobbled together system that includes a 1500W heat stick and 1000W sous vide and some big hop screens that act like brew bags. I actually run the sous vide in the mash and boil (works great until the volume drops and the sous vide propeller starts sucking in air). At those wattages though, it takes awhile to get to the desired temps. Recently I got another heat stick and a pump to recirculate and ran power over from another circuit. I think it'll be a little closer to using propane now.
BTW 2500W is too much for a 15 or 20 amp circuit. I happen to have a 25 amp breaker on the circuit where I brew. And don't forget GFCI:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UOU6OVU/
https://www.topgreener.com/type-c-usb-charger-outlet-quick-charge-3-0.html
https://www.amazon.com/Top-Greener-TU21548AC-Receptacle-Interchangeable/dp/B01FREZ8VE
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-High-Speed-4-8A-24W-Receptacle/dp/B01FREZ8VE
See for example [this](USB C Outlet by TOPGREENER | USB Wall Outlet, Wall Outlet with USB C, TU21548AC 4.8A-24W Ultra High Speed USB Charger Outlet, 15A Tamper Resistant Receptacle, Interchangeable Face Covers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hyytzbK553RGB) and [this](Anker PowerCore+ 20100 USB-C, Ultra-High Capacity Premium Portable Charger, 20100mAh External Battery, 6A Output Type-C Port for Macbook, Nexus, Nintendo Switch & PowerIQ for iPhone iPad & Samsung https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZO46LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vzytzb2EKE0Q1).
Yes, they're new, and they're expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FREZ8VE
Edit: I have not used, nor endorse this product. Use at own risk. The reviews show some worrying information, such as the type C port is not actually UL listed, and under resistive load shows dangerous temperatures.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPGREENER-TU21548AC-Resistant-Receptacle-Type-C-4-8A-USB-Outlet-15A/dp/B01FREZ8VE
Hmmm yes, lame. My outlet looks like this https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FREZ8VE hopefully that like doesn't change
I haven't found a smart heater, but I have a heater that works with a Smart plug/sensor combo pretty well.
I have the Vornado Whole Room Heater which has three power settings. I set mine on medium, then plug it into a SmartThings outlet. In SmartThings, I created an automation to tie a particular multi-purpose sensor to the outlet, so if the temperature drops below a certain point, the outlet turns on, which turns the heater on.
The two key points are to find a heater which uses manual controls instead of digital, so it resumes the settings and turns on as power is restored, and to find a Smart outlet which is rated for enough power to the heater. My setup requires a SmartThings hub and is automated, but you could do similar with a good Alexa Echo Plus compatible outlet and voice control to say "turn the heater on" or "turn the heater off" or set up a Routine in the Alexa app based on time of day.
Depending on the heater you choose, it looks like the new Amazon Smart Plug should have enough capacity. It also comes in a Black Friday deal with the new Echo Dot if you need to add another Echo device.
You mean like this? https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Smart-Plug-works-Alexa/dp/B01MZEEFNX/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543261571&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=alexa+smart+plugs&psc=1
Amazon Smart Plug, works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZEEFNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_yfxWg8gounGGV
I had my concerns with it being safe to use but I couldn’t find any information definitively saying it was unsafe. I’ve checked on it periodically and I haven’t noticed it heating up at all. After seeing the savings, I really want to get a Level 2 charger since it typically takes an additional couple of hours to top of my battery outside of non peak hours.
I'm getting an Amazon smart plug for my heater. Here's the specs on it.
Electrical Ratings
Input: 100-120VAC, 60Hz 15A
Max Output: 15A Max
Source is the Amazon page for it, https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Smart-Plug-works-Alexa/dp/B01MZEEFNX?th=1
Should be safe with that. Please note that I am not an electrician and this is just my 2 pennies.
Yes, Amazon’s brand.
Amazon Smart Switch
Not perfect, but so far 100% reliable for me in 1.2 years. Works perfectly with Alexa. You'll need the Alexa app to set timers, and control it remotely.
Wish Amazon would come out with a wall switch. The problem with this type of setup is that unless you have a phone or an Alexa, the only way to manually turn on a light is by the little switch on the side. A problem for guests.
I bought this one Amazon Smart Plug, works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZEEFNX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oQfPCbF51GAZK
But be aware there are others that come in a 4 pack for like 36 bucks
How many outlets will be on the circuit? If it's only one or two you might consider something like this.
I'll share my routine, but i'll also emphasize the top comment. Get to sleep on time!
So I have a four part alarm system to wake up at 6 am every day. The four alarms are: my phone, my clock radio, my mr coffee, and a lamp hooked up to one of (these)[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSTJST6/?coliid=I36MIX57QIXQ1G&colid=O3HOWXBSON9H&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it] smart plugs.
Waking up in the morning starts the night before. I prepare my coffee pot for the morning and make sure it's set to brew at 5:50 and make sure my other alarms are all set. The smart plug has an app on my phone where I can set it to automatic timers for on/off. So the lamp goes off every night at 10:45 if it's not already off.
At 5:50, the coffee starts brewing, and the first alarm on my phone goes off, no snooze. At 5:55 I get another alarm on my phone, again no snooze. And at 6:00 the lamp turns on and my alarm clock goes off across the room, next to my coffee pot and mug. This forces me to get out of bed and get started right away. I pour the coffee and let it cool off a bit while I brush my teeth. Then I drink a bit of the coffee and take the dog for a walk and I'm wide awake for the day.
Etekcity Smart Plug, Works with Alexa, Google Home and IFTTT, WiFi Energy Monitoring Mini Outlet with Timer (2-Pack), No Hub Required, ETL Listed, White, 2 Years Warranty and Lifetime Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSTJST6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YDtDDbPDQXCAP
This is what i bought to measure my voltage and watts. I have a multi meter but kts from harbor friehht and it sucks terribly. Or i just suck terribly. So i figured to buy something on amazon that connnexts to my phone and when i crank the knobs up and down i can see immediate results
I use these smart outlets because I can use them as my timer and monitor the energy pull. And you get an alert on your phone of the outlet didn’t turn on or off for whatever reason when scheduled.
Others use kilowatt meters. Can buy for like 20$ on amazon.
Non-facebook link: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Voltson-Outlet-Monitoring-Required/dp/B06XSTJST6/
I have these, they work well
Etekcity 2 Pack Voltson Wi-Fi Smart Plug Mini Outlet with Energy Monitoring, Works with Amazon Alexa Echo and Google Assistant, No Hub Required, ETL Listed, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XSTJST6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mWYSAbEN0NJXH
I've been trying to do everything hubless and the only options that way so far (at a reasonable price point) aren't in-wall outlets.
That said, I've been using these and don't dislike them. They don't block the other outlet port, but I would certainly prefer just in-wall smart outlets.
Easy and cheap hack to do this. Step one (while light/fan is off), open fan grate and pull fan cord from plug. Step two, figure out how much space you have in there. Step three, get a remote control "light switch" to plug in between the fan and the fan plug. Note: These are about $10 and plentiful for operating Xmas lights right now. Upside is this hack is cheap, slight downside is you can only use the fan while the light is on, but you can keep the fan off and still have the light on. Also, while you are messing with the light/fan with the grate off, maybe buy a nice LED bulb to replace whatever incandescent/CFL is in there, it will be a whole lot cooler/brighter and better for your new "light switch".
Example:
http://www.amazon.com/Westek-RFK100LC-RFK101LC-Mounted-Receiver/dp/B000HJBE68/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1416814907&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+light+switch
Why not just replace the outlet with a USB outlet?
These reviews aren't all that mixed... These are ones I like personally.
http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-T5632-W-Charger-Resistant-Receptacle/dp/B00J3PMU4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425660653&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+outlet
Yes, it is.
Firstly, it is not "like saying that micro USB replaced usb A". USB A was always the intended host-side port with micro USB being one of many device-side ports. USB C is the host and device side port.
But as USB ports in the wall are intended for charging, the much more important difference is in the charging standards supported. The USB C connector included a real charging standard not supported with USB A connectors. One can, of course, trickle-charge a USB C device from a USB A port with the appropriate adapter. But devices intended to charge via a USB C port do not ship with the old style wall wart with a USB A port. It is USB C on both ends of the cable. Because USB C is meant to replace USB A.
EDIT: TL;DR: I think you are giving poor advice because you don't know what you are talking about. If I were installing USB wall outlets I my house I would not install anything without a USB C connector. And manufacturers are making them with both because USB A is not a substitute for USB C.
A smart plug maybe?
It would turn TV on and off nothing more.
https://www.amazon.com/Amazon-Smart-Plug-works-Alexa/dp/B01MZEEFNX/ref=sxts_cfh_saw?creativeASIN=B01MZEEFNX&ingress=search&keywords=smart+plug&pd_rd_i=B01MZEEFNX&pd_rd_r=06eaea95-958e-429b-b73c-fd19ad9892ef&pd_rd_w=wXe2M&pd_rd_wg=sYfpS&pf_rd_p=93d649fd-8e6b-49af-99cc-dbf32eed2597&pf_rd_r=93RNQFDNRKS6F8VJF979&qid=1572665215&sprefix=smart+&widget_name=cfh_saw
Smart Plug Compatible with Alexa Google Assistant IFTTT for Voice Control, Teckin Mini Smart Outlet Wifi Socket with Timer Function, No Hub Required, White FCC ETL Certified https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVST9YN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JL3VDb8NJB308
What I use. Works wonderfully.