Best electrical distribution products according to redditors

We found 3,542 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical distribution products. We ranked the 797 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Audio & video selector boxes
Patch panels
Distribution wall plates & connectors

Top Reddit comments about Electrical Distribution Products:

u/staindk · 180 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Yo guys, Steam link is $19.99 right now on Amazon if anyone's interested!!

I think the deal will end within 24 hours so be quick - saw it on the "today's deals" section.

I just placed my order (with a bunch of other stuff). Can't wait :D

u/bdzz · 148 pointsr/GameDeals


Lowest price ever, usually goes for $20

Edit: Game UK also has the same price with cheaper international shipping than Amazon!

u/pencilvester_C137 · 68 pointsr/malelivingspace

Power cords carry higher voltage than A/V cords (like HDMI cables). I'm not an electrical engineer or general contractor, but they emit enough heat that it is considered a fire hazard to run them inside residential walls due to lack of air flow. Additionally, it is not up to building code to run such cords within walls.

Instead, you need to either have an electrician properly install wall outlets as needed, or use a type of kit that allows for the TV's power cord to plug into an 'outlet' on the wall, then the kit's to-code cabling runs down and allows you to connect to an existing wall outlet.

Something like this:

As running power cords inside walls violates building code, if your house were to catch fire due to this it's possible your home owners insurance wouldn't pay out a dime.

u/darktype · 55 pointsr/PS4

Also FYI for anyone who is looking into getting a Steam Link, it is currently on sale for $20.00 on amazon.

I was on the fence but decided to pick one up today :)

u/OMeffinG · 40 pointsr/PS4

Absolutely, and you can even get it for $20 today in the US from Amazon

u/MustardCat · 35 pointsr/buildapcsales

Same goes for the Steam Link (but they are temporarily OOS):

u/bkral93 · 32 pointsr/xboxone
u/xhable · 30 pointsr/gaming

Acxtually I think you'd want this guy

What you linked to is for watching one feed on two tv's.

u/thatdudebutch · 27 pointsr/battlestations

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

u/Servethebeam19 · 19 pointsr/DIY

I was under the impression that code for electrical wiring doesn't allow for tv power cables to be in the wall. You can actually purchase "power bridges" for this reason.

I only mention this as it is possible for the tv power cord to catch fire in the wall. Although I haven't personally seen this happen, I dont know of any professional av installers that would run the power wire in the wall this way. They would either have an outlet installed or use a power bridge.

u/rufioherpderp · 19 pointsr/woodworking

I used one of these for the super clean look. Pretty easy. Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White

u/Caseyfam · 19 pointsr/GameDeals

Same price on Amazon in case you don't want to deal with GameStop.

Pretty typical sale price for this, so don't think you need to jump on it immediately if you're on the fence. We'll see this price again.

u/areyoufukangkidding · 18 pointsr/AdviceAnimals
u/AutoModerator · 17 pointsr/GameDeals

Charity links:

u/Odoul · 16 pointsr/AskElectronics

You want to make one?

I wouldn't know where to begin.

But here is a sweet 3 port HDMI switch that has IR.

Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p

u/SuccessAndSerenity · 15 pointsr/gaming

For me, and I completely understand that this is a full throttle first world problem, it's about clutter and inputs. I already have 4 HDMI devices "connected" to a 3 HDMI input TV - and have to go pull cords when I want to use the extra one. A 5th would just add to that annoyance. That plus, more controllers I'd have to have laying around, more TV cabinet space I'd need to have to fit both devices... I understand these aren't deal breaking obstacles, but it would be nice to just replace one system with another and that be that.

Edit: took everyone's advice and got a switch. Just arrived:

Here's the details of what I went with, for anyone curious:
Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p

u/RandomNerdGeek · 15 pointsr/GameDeals

Also applies to the Steam Link.

u/EpiclyEpicEthan1 · 14 pointsr/homelab

Raspberry Pi 3

Raspberry Pi Clear Case

32GB MicroSD Card

Netatmo Weather Station

Wind Gauge

Rain Gauge

Rain/Wind Gauge mounts

3 Way HDMI Switch

1FT HDMI Cable

Wifi Adapter

Everything is attached to the back of the television with some double sided sticky paper things i had lying around. Anything will probably work.

The USB wall outlet is one that delivers 3.1A at 5V that we bought from our local hardware store.

The server that the software runs on is a poweredge r710 with dual x5670s and 64GB of ram. Of course, this isnt all it does, but it is one of the many things i host on it. :)

If you'd like, i can post the scripts i wrote for it as well.

u/masetheace64 · 13 pointsr/buildapcsales

Give me about an hour and I'll edit this comment with store links to what I got.

Edit: Here is the list

  1. Receiver/Amp This is very basic and will only support the bookshelf speakers themselves. If you want to add a sub or center, your going to need a full on stereo receiver. WARNING - when plugging in the banana plugs into this receiver, i had to force them in a bit to make them stay in. I thought I broke it, but my friend who recommended me this receiver said thats how his is too. so if the banana plugs go in weird, its ok :).

  2. Audio to RCA adapter. This is the wire to hook up to your PC. This could vary per setup. My setup goes from speakers to receiver, then receiver to PC with this cable. You could use RCA to optical cable as well. You have to make sure that if your PC is hooked up to your TV or monitor via HDMI to change the Audio input from hdmi to speakers.

  3. Speaker wire This is how you connect the speakers to the receiver. and the best way to do that is with banana plugs

  4. Bananna Plugs - Any kind will do and each banana plug hooks up to the wire differently. Some come with instructions, others you might have to google. I had to look at amazon reviews to see how mine worked.

    Total - about 40 - 50 depending on where you get your stuff.
u/scaryuncledevin · 13 pointsr/Chromecast

Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.

u/apc0243 · 13 pointsr/gaming

There's a couple third party hardware pieces that are basically an array of inputs and you physically "switch" to the one you want being sent to the TV. Thankfully there aren't many that use HDMI so we avoid having to figure that out (though I'm sure there are solutions).

I think the one he uses is this:

u/twoslow · 13 pointsr/HomeDecorating

find a space between the studs that doesn't have a firebreak. cut a hole in the drywall behind the TV, cut another hole under the wall unit. fish wires through.


u/majoroutage · 12 pointsr/buildapc

One of these little buggers that lets me switch between my speakers and headset with the press of a button.

u/brent20 · 12 pointsr/whatisthisthing

It’s one of those outlet relocation and cable pass through things you can buy at a hardware store to run cables in the wall for a mounted TV. People who are afraid of adding an outlet will use this to safely/legally (within code) run power from the TV. You would connect an extension cord to the prongs on the wall and plug it into an outlet. AV cables pass through on the right.

Edit: like this product: Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White

Honestly, I don’t understand why folks just don’t add an outlet up high above an existing one. It’s cheaper, cleaner, and just as easy to install as one of these things.

u/dilbertmouse · 12 pointsr/Austin

Totally not answering your question, but if you're sick of using an FM transmitter, but don't want to swap your radio, you can use an FM bypass/injector/modulator. Basically, it's a box that sits between your car's antenna and the radio, then overrides the signal for a specific station.

Your radio keeps working normally, but when you tune to a specific station, it'll be your phone. Since it's not actually transmitting, you don't have to fight with local radio signals.

Here's one on Amazon for $26 with decent reviews:

u/svirbt · 11 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

They make hard wired fm transmitters that are for people like yourself. Goes in line with the antenna and you plug it into your phone (or bluetooth). Like this It physically cuts out the antenna and directly connects your phone with a flip of a switch. You just need two Volvo antenna adapters.

u/BamOuellet · 11 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Amazon.CA has it for 25.99 too....If you guys missed it at EBGames

u/VinTheRighteous · 11 pointsr/steamdeals

Same price on Amazon if you want to avoid Steam's outrageous shipping.

Steam Link

u/TheFaster · 10 pointsr/HitBoxPorn

Streams your PC to your TV, and has ports for controllers. Just make sure you wire it to your router with an ethernet and to your TV with an HDMI for no latency issues. Also make sure your TV is set to Gaming or PC mode.

u/Jetemple · 10 pointsr/pcmasterrace
u/anthfett · 9 pointsr/hardwareswap
u/99e99 · 9 pointsr/BeginnerWoodWorking

better yet, hide the cords in the wall with a kit

u/danodemano · 9 pointsr/techsupport

Stay away from your second link, I got one of those and had trouble with it. I ran my PS3 through it and it would "black out" for a second or two every few minutes. Made gaming a pain in the ass. I attributed it to the fact that it leached power from the HDMI and didn't actually have a power pack. If that was indeed the case I would be cautions of the first option as well.

I ended up replacing mine with this and it has been working flawlessly.

u/Bfedorov91 · 9 pointsr/hardwareswap

They're on sale right now.. $19.99 and $34.99. Free shipping on amazon. No one is going to under cut that here.

u/danseaman6 · 9 pointsr/battlestations

DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku

I have the single running to one of my monitors, the duals run to my PS4 and PC. Then my second monitor runs straight to my PC.

u/Hotrian · 9 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Not OP but I have a bunch of these hooked up and I’ve never had any issues with them. You don’t have to pay much :/.

I have some hooked up to an hdmi audio extractor with an RCA -> AUX cable into my PC’s Microphone port, which I have set to ‘Listen To’ in Windows 10, so any audio coming from the HDMI source gets routed through my PC. $35 vs ~$150 for OPs capture card method :P. Though, if your motherboard or sound card support SPDIF input, you should use that instead (this extractor does both).

u/JustGreg · 8 pointsr/hometheater

Convert the optical to analog.

and maybe this... but a splitter would work too.

I don't know of a way to auto turn off the soundbar when you get sound.

However; you may get AV lag/sync issues when trying to convert to analog.

u/PrpleMnkyDshwsher · 8 pointsr/Chromecast

Many soundbars and pretty much any recent AV receiver will have HDMI ports, so you can run audio with no TV turned on. In my situation the new CC would be able to replace my current setup where I have a CC for video and a CCA for audio only + zone 2.

In your use case, it sounds like the CC + CCA is a better choice.
You don't have more than one input to the speakers?

Also: it takes way longer to burn-in anything than I would assume you would be listening to soundcloud for a stretch. Even on an old plasma, it took many, many hours for that to happen.

u/TrevorBradley · 8 pointsr/GameDeals

Steam Link is also $19.99.

EDIT: For Amazon Prime users only. Whelp - time for that free trial.

u/CivilDiscussions · 8 pointsr/nyc

Because it's not broadcasting if it is going via a wire connecting to your tv.

These adapters are still legally manufactured today!

You sure have a lot of self confidence in your answers for someone who has no clue what they are talking about.

RCA Compact RF Modulator (CRF907R)

u/XxRUDYTUDYxX · 8 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

u/throwaway234f32423df · 7 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

You could do it with two adapters. You might be able to do it with one adapter if you looked around, but based on just a quick search seems like this and this would do the trick.

u/JimboSkillet · 7 pointsr/VIDEOENGINEERING

Assuming you’re working with low resolution video, you should take advantage of the coax connections. Burn your video to a DVD, connect the DVD player to one of these and use coax splitters to feed to TVs. Depending on cost and availability you may want to make your own cables - one of crimped kits would be useful. You can get bulk coax cable from Home Depot it wherever.

Also check thrift stores and ask nerdy 60-year olds. My dad never throws stuff out and has a box of old stuff like this. This is very old tech and You may be able to find it for cheap.

u/glenwood · 7 pointsr/HomeImprovement

FYI: Low voltage not required to be in conduit in Chicago. A friend of mine is an electrician in Chicago. Rest of electrical needs conduit that is true.
I have run coax cable, Ethernet, speaker wire and phone lines in my house through walls without conduit. Just make sure the wire you use is riser rated if passing from floor to floor or In-wall rated if keeping on same floor. Plenum rated if running via heavy ducts/returns. I have generally used riser rated for all my in-wall applications.
Don’t run an electrical cord from a tv or extension cord in the wall. You always use something like this: Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White

u/strallweat · 7 pointsr/DIY

I used something like this.
It might not have enough outlets for OP, but he might be able to use something like this or this at the top part.

u/Ikit-Klaw · 7 pointsr/playstation

A hdmi switch like this or this will fix that issue.

u/Number6isNo1 · 7 pointsr/PS3

I'm using a Kinivo 301BN 3 Port switcher with my PS3 and PS4. Works fine, plus it switches to the console you turn on automatically (most of the time, anyway).

u/Blastergasm · 7 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

A splitter would not work in this situation. You need an active HDMI selector switch, tons of them on Amazon if you search for that. This one seems to be pretty popular:

u/Mr_Enduring · 7 pointsr/GameDeals

If you can wait until they have stock you can choose (currently the 3rd listing, the one with Prime) here,, and it will ship for $15 when they have stock.

Here is a store page link that forces as well

u/TenOunceCan · 7 pointsr/xboxone

$10 on Amazon and it doesn't need power. Can be used as a 2-1 or a 1-2 switch. It's small, made of metal, and the light is not super bright. Works with 4K signals. I use it to connect my Nintendo Switch and GPDXD+ to the X1S.

u/gfsgregresgr · 7 pointsr/apple

An HDMI input switcher is only, like, $10 extra.. e.g.

u/idkwtfiad · 7 pointsr/Steam

Amazon does not appear to have any Steam Links of their own in stock, at least on the US Amazon site. All Steam Links for sale are from third parties.

u/lyjacky11 · 6 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Meanwhile in Canada... :(

u/Maximus5684 · 6 pointsr/DIY

I was going to suggest he buy one of these and these but further down he said it's a cement wall so I would suggest some of these instead. Takes a little more time than just using Velcro ties but looks much better when finished IMO.

Edit: Also, don't EVER buy stuff from Amazon that is originally from Monoprice. $18.47 for something that Monoprice charges $8.58 for? Fuck off.

u/umdivx · 6 pointsr/hometheater

> which included adding an extra outlet behind the tv for whatever reason.

Because you can't legally run a power cord/extension cord through a wall. Can only be romex power cord.

So if you want a "clean" install you have to basically add a new outlet behind the TV.


They make kits like these that does the same thing

u/DeliriousDreams01 · 6 pointsr/HomeDecorating

You could also buy a longer cord, route the cord horizontally to the door frame and the down along it and then back over to the outlet. You could also buy a kit that would allow you to do the cable through the wall. Like this:

u/the-crooked-compass · 6 pointsr/CarAV

If the radio doesn't have an "AUX" mode, then this really isn't possible to do. Given your car is a 2000, it's highly unlikely an AUX port was even an option.

Two solid alternatives:

  1. Purchase an FM Modulator, like this or this. They're relatively easy to install, and you can probably do it yourself. It basically works like an FM Transmitter, but connects directly into your antenna port for a much cleaner signal. It can also be switched on or off, so you keep full use of your radio.
  2. Purchase an aftermarket head unit. It's certainly cheaper to do an FM Modulator, but upgrading to a good aftermarket head unit will make you happier in the long run. Especially with a stock head unit from 2000, you're bound to start having trouble with it at some point in the near future.

    Hope this helps!
u/elokr · 6 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5x1 5-Port HDMI Switch/Switcher with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D

Get a switch with remote.

Also, who buys a TV with only 1 HDMI port?

u/Mastagon · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Just did a quick check, and this works out to $23.67 us, which at the moment works out to about $32 Canadian shipped.

Here is the link for anyone who was interested.

u/TornadoCondorV2 · 6 pointsr/Cartalk
u/cmw72 · 6 pointsr/audio

Google 3.5mm ab switch. Something like this :

2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, wall or table available)

That will let you choose what input device you want. You can probably get by with just a Y-splitter from there to your speakers.

u/Agret · 5 pointsr/Steam_Link
u/yniew · 5 pointsr/GameDealsMeta

Both the Steam Link ($19.99) and the Steam Controller ($34.99) are the same price on Amazon now which might be a better deal when factoring in shipping costs.
Steam Link
Steam Controller

u/dac0502 · 5 pointsr/PS4

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone

This will allow you to switch from tv to monitor without switching HDMI cables. I use it myself.

u/bug_eyed_earl · 5 pointsr/oculus

For everyone who is worried about their hardware...

  1. Get some cable ties and take the load off the hdmi port if the cable gets yanked.

  2. HDMI is not the best port if you are plugging and unplugging daily. Leave the Rift plugged in or get an HDMI Switch so you aren't putting a bunch of undue stress of your GPU.
u/threeolives · 5 pointsr/xboxone

If you need more ports, I have 2 of these. Solid build quality and work like a charm. The only annoyance is the auto-switching which can't be turned off. My Chromecast decided to randomly reboot twice now while I was playing God of War and it switched over to that input. Guess what's in my drawer now!

u/JeremiS55 · 5 pointsr/AskBattlestations

This looks like it should work for your needs.
Here is the Schiit product I mentioned. It might be worth looking into it to see if you can get it cheaper or something though. Monoprice might have something similar.

u/dabsfordaze · 5 pointsr/xboxone

Splitters in the traditional sense are for taking one signal and "splitting it" to multiple TV's.

What you need is an HDMI Switch box, similar to this;

edited link

u/RaymondDoerr · 5 pointsr/gamecollecting

It's a Sony PVM 20L2, technically I think it's a 19 inch, but the model number implies 20 inch and that's what everyone lists them as. Although it does seem a tiny bit smaller than my old 20 inch Trinitron it replaced. I'll measure them later and find out for sure.

The cables are a bit of a mess right now, going from my old CRT with SCART -> Converter Box -> Component -> CRT to this setup changed around some stuff, but once I clean everything up I planned on doing a full "Gameroom" post featuring all the shelves and stuff. I'll take a few photos of the cables as well. :)

But, basically for the RGB connected stuff (SNES, Sega, PS1 and PS2) they start with these cables from the console to the Switch:

u/mjhopkins81 · 5 pointsr/castlevania

Very nice!

As your retro system collection grows, I suggest picking up an AV RCA switcher box:

Panlong 8-Way AV Switch RCA Switcher 8 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio Selector Box for DVD STB Game Consoles

u/RobeMinusWizardHat · 5 pointsr/GameDeals

The Steam Link also appears to be available at that price, but it's sold out. You can still order and get it when available, though.

u/xbwtyz · 5 pointsr/patientgamers

Same price from Amazon as well, and let's face it, who has better shipping and customer service standards?

u/rahulg_ · 5 pointsr/singapore

Steam doesn't support ARM, so neither will work. You'll need something that runs x86, or a Steam Link.

u/someonestopthatman · 5 pointsr/techtheatre

Yes but you'll need some adapters.

You need to convert the display output of your mac to RCA Composite. Something like this might work:

Then you'll need an RCA to RF modulator.

After that it's just turning the TV on and tuning it to the correct channel, usually 3 or 4, and hoping the TV still works.

You can probably even put the two adapters fairly close to each other in the booth and run coax to the TV.

u/Vallywog · 5 pointsr/amazonecho

I have been looking at some wall mounting possibilities as well for my dot. I dont have a plug in a good place for power so I am thinking about something like this to route the cable to a power source.

u/fishbulbx · 5 pointsr/CarAV

I wouldn't do the cassette thing... I'd get a $25 iSimple IS31 direct wired Antenna Bypass FM Modulator.

u/wbgraphic · 5 pointsr/applehelp

You may want to consider an FM modulator rather than a transmitter.

It's a bit more complicated to install, and it costs a few bucks more, but well worth it. The difference in sound quality between a transmitter and a modulator is very noticeable.

u/TreDubZedd · 5 pointsr/TechnologyProTips

The FM transmitter works pretty well, but if you want something more permanent/powerful, you could try something like this, which plugs directly into your car radio's antenna jack.

u/greatgokulee · 5 pointsr/whatisthisthing

Although it's a pretty generic switch, I'm pretty sure it's this. I have the exact same switch as OP in my car. This was the model I got:

You can test if this is the case by either pulling out the radio system, checking around for an AUX, or turning the radio on then turning on the switch to see if the radio cuts out or quality significantly deteriorates.

If this is the case, you can find the exact station for the AUX input by either looking on the box behind the system, or plugging your phone into the AUX, turning the switch on, then tune through all the stations.

u/Pandalizer · 5 pointsr/CarAV

You can get one of those in-line FM modulator-type devices. You plug it in between your antenna and stock radio and then it has an aux input on it and a switch between playing music from radio or the aux input.

Edit: Here's a decent looking one on Amazon: FM MODULATOR

u/Golfer13579 · 5 pointsr/RX8

Posting from mobile is difficult. Anyway. $25 and 2 hours of work later I have an aux jack with no exposed wires other than the cable itself hardwired into the radio without any crazy soldering necessary. Even has an on off switch to make things super easy.

This is the device I used.

u/technically_art · 5 pointsr/AskBattlestations

OP, be careful with the suggestions given by /u/JeremiS55. If you are running HDMI from the PS4 you will need a powered switch - unpowered switches tend to have trouble with the PS4's HDMI output. Here is an example.

I have a similar setup at home, here is what I do:

  • PS4, PS3, and PC on HDMI switch.
  • PC audio on a dedicated set of speakers
  • HD monitor on the output of the switch
  • Second (SD) screen on PC's DVI out that is always used for the PC
  • PS3/PS4 audio through HDMI to monitor's built-in speakers

    This lets me hear audio from the console while also listening to music or watching movies on my PC. The audio output won't "switch" with the HDMI switch - not a cohesive, single-output solution - but it's pretty easy to turn off the PC speakers if they're not wanted.

    Edit: I use this switch which I bought at Best Buy after having issues with my unpowered switch. I wouldn't necessarily recommend it over other options for your needs but it suits mine just fine.
u/Exino · 5 pointsr/PS4

I use this:

You can get it in 5 or 3 ports...I have a PS3, PS4, Xbox One, Wii U and a Roku 3 plugged into well.

u/lillian_e1985 · 4 pointsr/buildapc

Good choice on an amp :). This route might be better anyway since I can't find any audio switches that has good reviews. You might go through more hassle troubleshooting with a switch than plugging/unplugging into an amp.

The only one I can find that has decent reviews

u/synack · 4 pointsr/diyelectronics

Agreed with the other comments, don't try to open it unless you really know what you're doing.
Get an RF modulator, which will take any baseband video signal and move it to VHF channel 3 or 4.
If you need HDMI, you can get an analog converter that will plug into the RF modulator.

I run a RaspberryPi through an RF modulator to a very similar Samsung TV. I have a script running on the RaspberryPi that picks random video files from a directory and plays them with omxplayer. Currently, it's a 24x7 Looney Tunes and Futurama mix.

u/upofadown · 4 pointsr/electronics

Many old TVs are "hot chassis". That means that there is no isolation from the power line. With such TVs there is effectively no ground and you can't just feed in video/audio to the appropriate points. The simple solution is to just get a modulator. Here is an example of a type that would work for the type of TV used in North America (NTSC):

If all you want to do is look at OTA TV then the digital converter is a better idea. Such converters are very common on the used market in North America.

u/blacketj · 4 pointsr/buildapc

One option is to just punch a hole in the wall, you can fancy it up with a couple wall plates.

You can run an USB and HDMI cable through there. If it is a long HDMI run you may need to invest in an "active" cable to avoid signal degradation.

u/freespace303 · 4 pointsr/malelivingspace

Came here to say that, cable channels are da bomb, next level up is these things if you are allowed. Easy to install, run the cables down behind the wall and out the other side, totally hidden. Really nice clean look

Also, I totally lol'd at "speel"

u/d70 · 4 pointsr/RoomPorn

Came here to say this. Something like this is super easy and it's $50. I guess 80% of the budget went to the chair. :p

u/hydrottie · 4 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

OK I totally forgot about these. It hooks into your fm antennae input. Pretty easy if you can do basic mods like drilling a hole for the switch. .. I suggest running it to your aux switch slots that most trucks have. Take pics of the interior if i don't make sense

u/N64TRAV3 · 4 pointsr/kansascity

I don't have any experience going through someone else, as I'm more of the DIY kind of person. However, there are DIY options that don't involve cutting wires if that's your concern. This one, intercepts your antenna wire and is Plug-N-Play:

If your car has a spot for a cd changer on the back of the radio, this is a AUX to CD changer adapter that is also Plug-N-Play. Just plugs right into the back of the stock radio.

u/N0iSEA · 4 pointsr/PSVR

This device already exists and you probably already have one... Don't you have an AV receiver? Just split the HDMI (using the splitter you said you already have) from the PS4 into two different inputs and then use your remote control to the select the one that you want to play-HDR or PS VR.

If you don't have an AV receiver and you don't want to spend the money on one, just get a HDMI switcher that works with a remote control follow the same steps but with the HDMI switcher instead. Kinovo some really good ones for less than $30, But there are a ton of different ones.

Specifically : PS4-> HDMI Splitter -> 1 hdmi to psvr processor and the 2nd one to either an AV reciever or something like this: Kinivo HDMI Switch 301BN Premium 3 Port Wireless Remote & AC Power Adapter

Then have the psvr HdMI out also go to a seperate input on the AV Reciever or the HDMI switch.

The output from the AV Reciever or HDMI switch goes to the TV. Both the AV Reciever and the HDMI port can be controlled by a universal remote - i use a logitech harmony but you can use almost any one.

Note: The Kinovo switcher in the link does HDR i think, but you should shop around to make sure. If it doesn't then choose one that does. If you use an old AV reciever then it may not do HDR but a newer one should.

u/scuby4Life · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I had the same problem, try an hdmi switch, $30 on amazon.

u/Genghis_Tr0n187 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I love the switch as well! However, I don't think anything is immune to criticism, and Nintendo has made a lot of weird decisions that are a step back IMHO.

Anyway, check this out, it may help with your HDMI situation. I will say it does get out of sync when you dock the Switch because of how the Switch "wakes up" when docked but does not necessarily send video output. If you leave it docked, you can basically switch from PS4 and Switch depending on which device is awake at the moment.

u/sharpfork · 4 pointsr/cordcutters

I've had a bunch of thr cheap hdmi switchers and they all seem to die after 9 months after having issues with specific devices not working (ps3 and wiiu) from the start. I bought this one reccomemeded in a home theater subreddit and it has taken everything I've thrown at it with no issues:

I don't need to use the remote often as the auto switching is solid. I put my chromecast on my tv and roku on the switch as running more than one always on device screws with the autoswitching.

Get a Harmony anyway, they are super awesome.

u/MotorbreathX · 4 pointsr/GameDeals
u/movieguy2121 · 4 pointsr/Steam

The offer is still available, just check under other sellers and makes sure to order the one from

u/mushrooshi · 4 pointsr/virtualreality

So the reason this is needed is SteamVR gets confused when two headsets are plugged in at the same time...

These are the exact two bits I ordered:

But any bi-directional HDMI switch, and any powered USB 3.0 hub that lets you turn on and off connections should work.

I tried plugging my two Rift cameras into the hub but Oculus software was spitting out "Poor Communication" issues, so those have dedicated ports into the mobo (and it's OK to leave them connected while using the Vive)

This will make QA across platforms a lot easier :D

u/Wescyde · 4 pointsr/PS4

Not possible? Maybe I’m not understanding what he is asking but it sounds like he wants this.

DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku

All you do is press the button when you want to play the other console and it will switch back and forth. No power source etc and relatively low price.

u/freakingwilly · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

3 to 1 HDMI pigtail switch - $8, no remote, it should auto sense, but you will likely need to use the button to swap inputs. Does not require external power.

3 to 1 HDMI switch box - $18, remote control, requires external power. This one is much nicer because all the cables plug into the back, so you'll have a much cleaner set up. You can also leave it right in front of your monitor and simply push the button to switch inputs.

u/Estew02 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I purchased this HDMI switch. I use it for my Switch, PS3, and regular television. Works like a charm. The only annoyance is that instead of having a remote of sorts, there's a button on the device itself that must be pressed to switch between HDMI signals. Really just a minor thing, though.

u/monderick · 4 pointsr/xboxone

I use the below model to connect PS4 Pro and Xbox One X to a Samsung KS8000 with no 4K/HDR problems.
Make sure the HDMI cables you’re using are rated for 18Gbps

u/tuanster1119 · 4 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

No fix, happens with the autosensing switch I use on my TV.
This one:

u/whatdidshedo · 4 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I think those speaker stands you can do better for like 10 bucks more.
Now when it comes to AVR there is better option with really good discount like yours MSRP 300 the one bellow MSRP 550 and only like 40 bucks more with plenty of features and definitely a step up is Yamaha TSR 5810 it's only $209 and much better than that entry level receiver you picked.
Has even Atmos in and all the goodies in case you expand later.

Speaker wire is fine but for neater connection maybe add for 7 bucks banana plugs

u/a_park_bench · 4 pointsr/todayilearned

Not a cable, a hub. He wanted to sell me a 2-port HDMI Hub with no remote for $75, instead I went to Amazon and got a 3-port with remote for less than $10. And it's worked flawlessly for 5 months.

u/tresanus · 4 pointsr/gamecollecting

So I just went through all of this myself and I can let you know what I used. After doing some research I decided on this 8 Way Composite AV Switch (MT-VIKI 8 Ports 8-In 1-Out AV RCA Splitter Selector Switch $22 - Amazon)

And I currently have 7 consoles running through it perfectly into my trinitron as you can see here:

That is one RGB cable coming from the selector (on top of CRT) into the TV and all the RGB cables from my consoles plugging into the selector. There are toggle switches on the top to choose between systems.

Currently connected: SNES, PS2, GC, Dreamcast, N64, Saturn and Genesis w/powerbase adapter and I still have room for my TG16 once I find space for it!

EDIT: I re-read through the thread linked earlier and I am using the same models they have suggested.

u/Mr_frumpish · 4 pointsr/retrogaming

I used to use Y adapter (two female ends, one male) but now I just switch the RCA connectors out for the console I am using at the time.

There are products out there where you can plug a bunch in at once.
For Example

I know nothing about the above product and am not endorsing it. It's something I found in two seconds of internet searching.

u/railking560 · 4 pointsr/PS4

Its on sale for $20 right now if anyone is interested.

u/Aquifel · 4 pointsr/Steam_Link

I know it doesn't help you now but, Amazon sells the Steam Link. I can almost guarantee that your customer service experience will be better with them.

Your address probably wasn't even wrong, in the US, this happens to me with Fedex all the time just because they don't have time to come to my house and don't want to have to take responsibility for missing their deadline.

u/fuzeebear · 3 pointsr/PS3

I can confirm this. My receiver only has four HDMI ports which is one too few for my stuff. I have PS3 and X360 hooked up to one of these and it works great. I don't even use the remote since it auto-switches. Only downside is that the LED is too bright, and that was fixed with a square of electrical tape.

u/Future_Appeaser · 3 pointsr/sweepstakes

Just started doing this 2 days ago and so far have won

3 steam games ($60 combined)

Lifetime dvd software license ($50)

Magnetic Chore chart ($15)

Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch ($12)

Limited Edition Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame Tie

u/BobStraitFTW · 3 pointsr/PS4

I bought this one. It is powered which is important to some devices because they will not provide enough power through the HDMI itself. And this particular one has an ir remote so you can trigger it without getting up. (My personal favorite feature.)

u/iamofnohelp · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You mean like an HDMI switch?

Fosmon HD1831 3-Port HDMI Switch with Pigtail Cable

u/portezbie · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Hi, I actually had the exact same dilemma as you and about a month ago went for a 2.0 setup.

In the past I've tried a variety of computer speakers and nothing cut it. I never tried a soundbar, but I am super happy with my 2.0 setup.

So here is my $200 set up (big thanks to Zeos for helping me learn and pick out the parts):

$109 manufacturer refurbished Denon AVR 1513 receiver:!specifications

$80 Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers:

$9.43 Speaker wire:

This is the wire stripper I bought but it is no longer available for prime so I would get a different one:

Maybe get this one (but any will probably be fine):

Lastly, banana plugs for the wires. Optional, but nice to have ($10.96):

Total: ~ $250 with tax and shipping and whatnot.

One last piece of advice:

I originally tried the popular Lepai amp and hated it. I just couldn't get the volume I wanted from it.

u/MMfuryroad · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Here's a basic home theater accessories list and a how to video for connecting speaker wire to screw type banana plugs. You'll need 2 pairs of banana plugs per front soundstage speaker hookup (1 pair for each end.) Alternatively you can just remove a small amount of shielding from the speaker wire and twist the copper strands then insert them into their corresponding(+-) binding post or spring clip.

Subwoofer cable

[ Monoprice 16 AWG copper speaker wire 50 ft.]

Monoprice Certified Premium HDMI cables

Monoprice screw type banana plugs

connecting banana plugs video

More in depth speaker wire stripping and installing video

Subwoofer crawl technique

u/txspoon · 3 pointsr/Whatisthis

Should also take banana plugs if you have those type of cables instead of bare wire right into the hole.

u/explosivo563 · 3 pointsr/audio

Strange? You mean the speaker inputs? That's for speaker cable. Banana plugs are optional.

u/Kanchi555 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

Trim it up if you want. I have been very pleaed with my investment in banana plugs, in your case it would only be at the speaker end. You put them on the wire then can then just plug them into the speaker.

u/DownWithADD · 3 pointsr/vita

I haven't had any issues. HDMI, being digital, would have noticeable "blocking" instead of an overall degradated signal and I haven't seen any issues.

Most devices should output enough power via HDMI to not need it; but, it does have an a/c input just in case. My ps3/fire stick/FIOS cable box all work with it without needing another power source.

I use this one, btw:

It'll automatically default to ports based on power and placement. So, you'd plug an "always on" device like your cable box into input 1. Then, if you have your ps3 in input 2 or 3, it'll automatically switch when you turn it on.

u/kalinaizzy · 3 pointsr/gamecollecting

Splitters are going to be more of like a 2 to one sort of thing and my experience are not as reliable, if you’re looking to use it for game consoles I’d definitely go with an HDMI switch box like this one and that way you can utilize auto-switching features (if you were playing your PlayStation last and then you come back later and want to play your Xbox, you can turn your Xbox on and it will automatically switch inputs). You can also get more consoles hooked up with a switchbox (most switch boxes are 3 in 1 out, I have a 4 in 2 out, some even go up to 8 in). Just a thought!

u/codenamegamma · 3 pointsr/gaming

a Splitter, takes the same HDMI signal and sends it to 2 Output devices.

a Switch, Takes Multiple HDMI signals and will let you switch between them to go to 1 HDMI input.

you seem to be a little confused about what exactly you need.

u/Idontdeservethiss · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Ah okay. Sorry, I thought you just wanted an on/off switch. Ignore my original suggestion. What you are looking for is just commonly known as an "HDMI Switch"/"HDMI Multiplexer"

Something like this.

Do you need to do any automation with it?

u/laptopfreek0 · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

Just get this guy or something similar.

u/InsideOutsider · 3 pointsr/DIY

That sounds like a terrible situation. Snaking through a wall that has any turns is next to impossible without opening the wall and gaining access.

An alternate solution: You can get a three way HDMI switch. Put it at the bottom of the wall and plug the other components into it. This sort of thing. There's a bunch to shop through.

u/baozichi · 3 pointsr/gaming

>This cable functions as a signal transmitter, but NOT a signal converter.


You need a converter too, like this one:

Then, if you have a lot of RCA cable using consoles, and you don't want to mess with wires all the time, consider something like this:

With these 2 items, you can connect 8 things to an HDMI ready TV with RCA cables. It's going to look like crap though :( Best to just find an old CRT monitor.

u/stagehog81 · 3 pointsr/gaming

Easiest way is to use a RCA switch. You will also likely need multiple power strips to be able to have all the power cables plugged in.

u/Tourelle1 · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Taking a look, you may or may not be aware of this

You may consider a 525gb mx300 for your ssd but other than that it looks really good for what you want.

u/n_nick · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Here is my build list formated for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 |
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 |
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 |
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 |
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 |
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 |
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 |
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 |
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 |
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 |
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 |
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 |
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 |
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 |
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 |
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 |
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 |
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 |
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 |
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 |
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 |
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 |
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 |
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 |
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 |
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 |
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 |
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 |
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 |
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 |
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 |
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 |
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 |
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 |
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 |
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 |
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 |
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 |
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 |
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 |
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 |
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 |
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 |
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 |
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 |
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 |
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 |
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 |
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 |
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 |
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 |
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 |
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 |

u/Route66_LANparty · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Do you already have a nice gaming PC?

$50 - Steam Link

u/MyMostGuardedSecret · 3 pointsr/buildapc

With this

u/traken · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Ah, right then. After a bit more thinking, the closest description I could come up with is an "audio switch". Searching for that led me to a Audio Speaker / Headset Switching Hub, Manhattan 172851.

Audio switch and audio selector seem to get the most relevant products.

u/lillgreen · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

See the headphone lookin jack on the back labeled Ext Antenna? It's doable but you'll need some nutty adapter spaghetti.

  • one of these - not sure where to get them these days but like this
  • one of these
  • and an rf modulator

    Put tv on channel 3 or 4 VHF and done.

    Good chance that it's only a black and white screen btw. Sony had portable color tvs of the same size back then but lesser known brands were B&W. There would also be more than three knobs on the back if it were color, those are the bare adjustments for grey scale.
u/universaljoint · 3 pointsr/explainlikeimfive

Sonny, there were plenty of ways to convert rca outputs to coax inputs. In fact, there was even a time before coax was common. An adapter like this was required to make the necessary connection.

u/Schrockwell · 3 pointsr/Watches

Yup, that's possible! Ever used an RF modulator to connect something like a VCR or a classic game system like an NES? The RF modulator outputs an analog TV signal on channel 3 or 4, albeit a very weak one since it just has to go across a few feet of coax. With an appropriate amplifier and antenna you could in theory broadcast that to a TV.

u/iConoClast04 · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

>980Ti DisplayPort > DisplayPort to VGA adapter > VGA to component conversion box > RF modulator (component to coax) > coax port on TV

A/V guy here.

I think I could have saved you some trouble.

Here are the steps I would have taken:

Edit: u/Egleu pointed out that an RF modulator is still required. Sorry but I'm a stoner.

-Get an HDMI to Composite adapter like [this] (

-Get an RCA to BNC cable like [this] (

-Get a Female BNC adapter to RF adapter like [this] (

-Get an RCA to RF adapter like [this] (

Plug everything in and it should work. Btw, you want to use the Yellow RCA from the HDMI to RCA adapter.

Tip: Screw the RF adapter onto the RF input on your TV first. Then all you have to do is twist the BNC part of the cable on instead of trying to twist that tiny little nut with your fingers while the cable is attached.

u/SuspiciousAlias · 3 pointsr/smashbros

The picture is going to look like ass, and yes you will need something like this.

Also it's not an adapter, it's a converter. You will get some lag no matter what, but it's probably miniscule. There is no way to get an adapter only solution. The modulation is different.

u/lues_jenkins · 3 pointsr/raspberry_pi

What you are looking for is an rf modulator. They used to sell them at radioshack for 35 dollars.they are way cheaper now.

u/nickhamm · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You'll need an RF Modulator. It takes RCA input and converts to Coax. You'll have to use your SD video cables for the Xbox, no HD output. If you want to connect more than one device, you'll have to look for an RCA Switcher to put into the RF Modulator.

u/unkmunk · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You need a vga to composite video converter and an RF modulator. I’ve never seen them packaged in one unit.

You take the two units and daisy chain them, hooking the ‘coax out’ of the RF modulator to the TV. Then you turn the TV to channel 3 or 4.

It will look like crap. 640x480 resolution is highly optimistic, 320x240 is more realistic. Several resolutions will work but the quality of the display will make the finer details disappear.

Results will be highly dependent on the content, viewing distance and expectations. Low res photos will look ok if you stand back a bit. Text will not be legible except with large font sizes.

Good luck, here are some sample items like what you’d need.

Sewell Direct SW-22050 PC to TV Converter

RCA Compact RF Modulator (CRF907A)

Source: was geek in the 80s

u/justin_144 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I would probably grab something like this. Yes, the pin type banana plugs are what I would recommend, but I have a speaker selector from monoproce and it didn't fit the pins, which I though was strange.

u/TheRealGunn · 3 pointsr/LifeProTips

A couple of these and a dry wall saw.

DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White)

u/bonestamp · 3 pointsr/battlestations

Assuming it's mounted to an inside wall, it's probably not insulated, meaning it's extremely easy to feed the wires inside the wall.

Using a keyhole saw, cut a small hole behind the monitor. I suggest using a stud finder with A/C detection to make sure you're not cutting into a stud or wires. Then cut another hole somewhere directly below that hole and just run the wires in one and out the other. It's super easy. You can get nice bezels to make the holes look pretty too:

keyhole saw

stud finder


u/wgharv · 3 pointsr/howto

Another use posted this

I haven't looked to see if it is in accordance with the national electric code, but if it is, it would make the job a lot easier

u/ack154 · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

This is what I use... keeps within code and all that too.

u/grumpyolddude · 3 pointsr/whatcarshouldIbuy

There are aux inputs that you physically plug between the radio and the FM antenna. Like this:

u/verbthatnoun · 3 pointsr/cars

avoid transmitters.

Get a modulator

I had one very similar to this in my SVT Focus, worked awesome. It puts in line with your radio's antenna and uses a modulator frequency that will interrupt radio signal (for the one linked 87.9 or 88.3), and will play audio from a AUX or 3.5MM audio cable.

The sound quality is identical to a perfectly clear FM channel, and will never give you anything different, FM transmitters are the devil, they constantly change in signal quality just because of how low power their broadcast is.

u/microcozmchris · 3 pointsr/Gwinnett

A little quick research shows these things.

  1. Adding AUX to the factory JBL unit requires soldering onto the main circuit board of the radio after disassembly. No professional installer is going to do that. Period.
  2. You can use an inline AUX/antenna adapter. They're $25 most places. It still uses the FM transmitter model, but it fits inline between the antenna and the head unit. The inline models interrupt the signal from the external antenna and provide a much cleaner sound. iSimple IS31 is an example. Removal of your head unit is an easy job for any installer, and fitting that thing in there is pretty easy. Most installers will begrudgingly do this for you, probably cost you $100 in labor plus parts. They'll be more likely to want to do this step if you're buying speakers at the same time.
  3. Research your car at Crutchfield. Find the parts you want to fit your budget. Then make the next decision:
    1. Buy from Crutchfield and install it yourself. A reasonably handy friend can help. Your car is stupid easy to work on. Doesn't take many tools. You might be averse to installing it yourself, but if you're talking about buying shit on eBay you're obviously on a budget. Consider it again.
    2. Use the research to set your budget. Take your new knowledge to a reputable shop. Most places I've been will have nearly identical pricing to Crutchfield for parts and will of course charge you time and materials to do the installation. Expect $75-$85 per hour for the install. Some shops have a standard like $100 for basic installation of a head unit and a per-door speaker cost. They'll do a nice job, but you'll pay for it.


  • Your car has tweeters in the dash, one in each door, and the sub in the rear deck.
    • There are no tweeters (dash) that I've found that will fit without modification. You'll either have to buy eBay/junkyard replacements or go surface mount. Or find somebody willing to do the modifications.
    • Front and rear door speakers are easy and are as cheap as $40/pair. Probably cheaper if you're in Walmart mode.
    • Subwoofer (center of rear deck) is also easy. Probably $70+ for a nice one, less for something that'll work.

      That "thing under the passenger seat" is the factory JBL amplifier. There are kits now that will either bypass that factory amp or interface with it, depending on what you want. If you bypass it, your factory subwoofer goes away. Again, Crutchfield research.

      Shout out to Real Time Audio & Accessories for their work. They're a touch north of Gwinnett, but close enough and not far off of I-985 at Spout Springs.


      Have fun with it and good luck.

u/TripleThreat · 3 pointsr/cars

/u/Doug-demuro you need an fm transmitter that connects between your head unit and antenna plug and is powered. You can plug into he transmitted via aux or use a Bluetooth adapter. I get 0 interference.

I use this one and have 0 complaints other than the slightly more tedious initial install.

u/the_turtleking · 3 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

My truck is a 2004.i got one of these for it. Works great.

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios

u/Mr6507 · 3 pointsr/cars

If you don't want to replace your radio, but really want an aux cord - this is the best choice. It plugs into your antenna and won't get bleed through unless you're under the station.

u/ehsu · 3 pointsr/malefashionadvice

I used to own a 98 Civic EX with one of these. The audio quality was significantly better than an FM transmitter and I think it cost me $70 total (including professional installation) at a local car stereo place.

u/LobsterCowboy · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Put one of these on my Chrysler, and I'm 70 yo

u/CrazyAuron · 3 pointsr/PS4

This is the best one you can get and works the best.

You need to have a HDMI Switch with a dedicated power supply, otherwise it wont run the signal for the PS4. Trust me, I had some trial and error till I found this one.

u/crdpoker · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Depends on how involved you want to get. Here it's all a matter of aesthetics, and if you want it to look good, you've gotta do the work. Fortunately, I did it for the first time myself, and it looks good and is worth it.

  1. Take the TV off the mount. Go into the attic and assess the area directly above the fireplace. Should be easy to find based on the chimney, but if not (and there aren't any wires or duct work above it), drill a small hole in your ceiling right in the center of the fireplace, and poke a straightened wire coat hanger into it. This will penetrate the insulation and give you a good point of reference.

  2. Buy and install a combo recessed plug and cable plate. If there's not much room behind the drywall, you can get shallower versions.

  3. Run electrical power (12/2 Romex is sufficient for a flat screen) and a single long HDMI cable to your box. Wiring sounds difficult, but with a fish tape and a paddle bit, it's actually not that bad. DIY Network has a writeup here. If you're unsure of local code, or don't want to mess with electricity, you could run the power cable to the box, and then have a local electrician tap into an existing line with capacity (this should be much cheaper than having them do the whole job).

  4. Run the other end of the HDMI cable to wherever you want your source boxes to be. Ours are in our coat closet. Use either an A/V switching receiver or an HDMI switch to control the source. Yes, modern TV's have multiple HDMI ports on the back, but for a clean and easy installation, doing 1 cable to the TV, and then switching at the sources is a much better solution than running a new cable through the attic for each device.

    Good luck.
u/PotaPancake · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I miss read your post a little. Just a simple video switch is what you're looking for. Something like this link should work. If you don't use HDMI get adapters, the VGA and DVI switches out there are old and outdated for current resolutions. I've owned this particular brand before, I had the 5 port version.

u/cajunflavoredbob · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I've had good results with Kinivo HDMI switches and Harmony remotes. I haven't used the UHD ones, but the FHD ones work great.

Kinivo FHD HDMI switches

Kinivo 301BN (3x1)

Kinivo 501BN (5x1)

Kinivo UHD HDMI switches

Kinivo K300 (3x1)

Kinivo K500 (5x1)

u/highoctanefool1 · 3 pointsr/sysadmin

Well If I had 15 conference rooms I would probably do something a little more "official". Look into the wide world of Crestron and Extron products. If its on a conference table I would look at something like the Fliptop tied into an HDMI switch/scaler for your different digital and analog formats with a single HDMI running back to the screen. Of course you can always start going over the top by tying in audio and lighting but its all about $$$.

Or if you like quick and dirty, ScottRaymond has the right solution except put all the clutter under the table and get an auto sensing HDMI switch like this one

Source: A/V at a conference center is one of my hats

u/Baconsammy · 3 pointsr/xboxone

I use:

I have my XB1, PS4, Apple TV, Directv HDDDVR all plugged in. It always displays the most recent device I turned on.

u/ThatKidPsyc · 3 pointsr/gaming

Here is one with 5 HDMI ports

but yeah an AV Receiver is probably the best bang for buck since you can plug in mostly everything into one device.

u/FoN925 · 3 pointsr/PS4

Do you mean splitter (view your PS4 on multiple screens) or switcher (switch between your PS4 and other HDMI devices connected to one screen)?

I'm just not sure why many people would need a three-way HDMI splitter for their PS4....

If you're looking for a switcher, I've been using this one for almost 5 years. If you want something under $20, this one seems to have good reviews.

u/GhoostP · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Got this guy set up just recently; pretty happy with it for the consoles I have hooked up.

u/spyvision · 3 pointsr/IndianGaming

Kinivo 4K 30hz + 1080p 60hz for 3,299₹ (proper seller, with warranty, Appario Retail) - Amazon link

Kinivo 4K 60hz for 6,289₹ (not an official seller, no guarantee or warranty) - Amazon link

u/GeezusTX · 3 pointsr/techsupport

I use this one. Switches automatically as well as with the included remote. Had it about a year, works great.

Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p

u/ChiefSittingBear · 3 pointsr/Chromecast

I splurged and got a little pricier one:

I was going to get a cheap 3 input one, but the 3 input from this brand wasn't much more. And then once I had that it wasn't much more for the 5 input. I too had three devices and one input, so I decided to get the 5 input switcher in case I added a device in the future. Now I'm glad I did since I'll be adding a chrome cast.

I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't give you a long term review, but so far it's worked great. I just have my Wii U and PS3 plugged into it right now and it automatically switches between the two. I don't think it will work with a Roku though, because the always on screensaver thing will make the switcher think it's always playing something. It comes with a remote control to switch manually. My TV has 3 inputs so I'll be putting the chromecast in one, Roku in one, and the switcher in the other for all my gaming systems and cable box.

u/cwhitlow101 · 3 pointsr/hardwareswap

I just wanted to post these two links...

eBay with Free shipping($25):
Amazon Used ($33.45):

u/hopelessly_positive · 3 pointsr/buildapcsales

It's also still available at Amazon.

u/SpaghettiArm · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For those that work from home with their work laptop: an HDMI switcher.

Use it to switch your monitors source from your desktop or your docking station!

u/tarzan_boy · 3 pointsr/miniSNES

You mean a bidirectional hdmi switch?

  • Will it work? Yes
  • Have it used one? No
  • How do I know it will work? I read the product description and plan to use the same switch to hook us a NES and SNES to one monitor
  • What if it doesnt work? Return it
  • But...I spent $X.xx what if it does not work? Again, return it and stop asking the same questions. Laziness isn't an excuse and judging by your experience with analog signals I'll wager your old enough to help yourself. Time and effort spent finding a solution is part of the experience! Yes someone else may have done this already, or you could be the first! Take a possible solution and come back to this community with the answer.

    Edit: Given you have the disposable income to purchase a snes classic and free time to play said games.... You have enough money for a hdmi splitter and enough time (if you get a factory defect/ D.O.A product) to return it for a functioning one. Cheers
u/JayPCarnage · 3 pointsr/Blackops4

I have a 40" 4K on one wall and Next to it a desk with monitor.

Use this for easy switching

DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction 4K HDMI Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2 No External Power Required 2 Ports HDMI Switcher Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P for PS4 Xbox Fire Stick Roku

u/HybridCamRev · 3 pointsr/videography

/u/Gogo229 - For live events, I'd recommend a real camcorder like the [$1799 JVC HM200] (

This camera will cost you several hundred dollars less than a GH5 and give you built-in SDI out, which you can plug straight into the SDI input of a [$551 Blackmagic Web Presenter] ( without an adapter.

With an [inexpensive 2 input switch] ( for the Web Presenter's HDMI input, you'll have a slick 3 camera setup you can send straight to your laptop without spending $1000 for the Roland.

[Here] ( is a nice summary of what the Web Presenter can do.

And here are a few examples of the image quality the HM200 (and its lower-end twin, the HM170) can produce:


u/tillmania · 3 pointsr/dreamcast

Make sure the game supports vga of course. I use the following:

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports...

Tensun 3RCA AV CVBS Composite &...

OREI XD-600 VGA PC/Laptop to HDMI Video Converter -Upscaler Up to 720P/1080P Converter with Audio Jack

Then finally I use the 8bit retro VGA box.

This is not the most efficient setup or the cheapest but it lets me switch easily from vga to s-video for the titles that prefer it and ensures the audio works. I recently purchased a DCHDMI but haven’t had it installed.

u/anonX1337 · 3 pointsr/techsupport

That will only duplicate the display. What you're looking for is an HDMI input switch box.

Like this.

u/TheCrowGrandfather · 3 pointsr/techsupport

Kvm stands for Keyboard, Video, Mouse and it would do exactly what you're looking for. However it is somewhat pricy.

If you don't mind pressing 3 buttons you could buy an HDMI merger, and have that feed into a splitter, and have a USB splitter.

Basically you'd need these: (Merger)


(USB Switch)

And about 4 HDMI cables.

All in all it should cost you about $100. It's ghetto and would look silly but it will work.

u/annoyingone · 3 pointsr/wiiu
u/koshuu · 3 pointsr/PS4Pro

A switch is definitely your best option in this situation. Try this one out, I saw it posted on another sub with a similar situation. Hope that helps you out.

u/BrianGraham91 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Please don’t get this item. “This does not support HDR, HDCP 2.2, HDMI 2.0”

Which means no Netflix, HDR if you have an S or X and no 4K if you choose to upgrade down the road.

This one has room for more devices, 4K support if you upgrade your devices and HDCP 2.2 which will let you watch Blu-ray Discs and Netflix (from Xbox):

u/Arctic172nd · 3 pointsr/PS4Pro

Which models have you tried? I am getting this one today

u/DirtyDozenWA · 3 pointsr/PS4

I bought a 5x1 4K switch just for this purpose and it's been great. That way I have a single input to my 4K tv, but can switch between the sources with the remote that comes with the switch.

This is the one I got:

Make sure you get good high-speed HDMI cables for each connection, too:


u/macbrett · 3 pointsr/audiophile

It might work, but I wouldn't chance it. Generally it's not a good idea to short two output sources together which is what that splitter would do. (The output of a device is low impedance so it "looks like" a short circuit when connected to a different output source.)

What you should use is a switch box that lets you connect one device at a time to the speaker (while disconnecting the other.)

Here's one.

u/sharkamino · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

2 to 1 3.5mm switch or a 4 to 1 3.5mm switch or a 2 to 1 mixer if you want to listen to 2 at the same time.

What is the price on the Harmon Kardon SoundSticks III?

Many other powered speakers have more than one input. Edifier 1280DBs have 2 inputs plus bluetooth.

Or a stereo or av receiver with bookshelf speakers if you have the room has many inputs.

u/Svaigis · 3 pointsr/buildapc

But why you have only one slot? Might as well just get USB sound card for the same price, better investment.

u/charliefuckstick · 3 pointsr/techsupport

I use one of these to use my switch, snes mini, and pc at my desk. Works pretty well.

u/Gustafer823 · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Something like this HDMI audio extractor will solve your audio problem. Or you can get an all in one solution

u/DeexEnigma · 3 pointsr/ps2

Personally I run a Retrotink 2X and love the thing. As far as I know Mike Chi (The make of the 2X) is the maker of the RAD2X as well. So That's probably the best option (in the price range obviously).

You can buy HDMI audio extractors to get your line level out back. This way you can run audio however you want after the HDMI process. However, in your situation, it might just pay to go the 2X route and then never feed your audio into the unit and route it elsewhere.

u/j_nak · 3 pointsr/sonos

I used to have this one and it worked for a Roku and cable box.

u/An0ther0neB1tes · 3 pointsr/techsupport

You could buy an HDMI switch.

I found one by doing a quick search:

This one accepts two inputs and allows you to output to a single display, and you can switch between the input sources.

u/Bmmick · 3 pointsr/NoStupidQuestions

A lot cheaper than a new TV

HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter-Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 2 Input 1 Output, HDMI Switch Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2. No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku HDTV

u/Bocaprowler · 3 pointsr/PS4

You need an HDMI splitter like this:


That is a simple one, if you are worried about HDR going through the splitter, you may need to look for a splitter that supports HDR.

u/The_Khemist · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I think it's still available from Amazon for $14.99

u/lightfork · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It looks like what you have there will do what you intend without switching. Simply turn the device on that you want to use, or have both.

If you wanted to toggle, this looks like it will do what you want. It can combine or split depending on how you connect to it - two monitors on the dual end and one pc on the single end makes it a splitter.

u/PM_Me_Cable_Porn · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

You might also consider an HDMI switch. which will allow you to just click a button and switch between PC input and PS3 input. Most of these (Unless expensive) don't include any alternative audio option, just HDMI <-> HDMI


If you JUST want to record the video on your PC, and don't want to display it live, any capture card will do, whether internal or external, and is just about the only way to go - very, very few video cards have bidirectional HDMI ports, so you likely only have output on your PC


The linked item (The Easycap) is along the right lines, but not quite there. The PS3 will not allow dual video output in this manner. it only supports one output, and you can only switch between the two, not have both.

The better way is to stick with HDMI, but install a video capture card with HDMI passthrough in your computer. Plug PS3 HDMI into the capture card, and plug the cards output to your monitor. I know they can be expensive, but it's the proper way in this case. The one I linked is relatively nice, there are probably cheaper options with passthrough capability - I just don't feel like searching through results for the best bang/buck ratio.

This should also allow you to use the capture card's audio output (3.5mm on this card) to connect to your speakers for sound that's pulled from the HDMI - meaning you can forgo the component cable entirely.

Without passthrough it'd still be possible, but you'd basically have to stream the video to yourself- meaning there's likely to be some video lag compared to passthrough or direct connection. The one you linked would require this kind of setup, which is not ideal.

u/tenchi4u · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

I have this one, works fine for my Switch.

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone

u/swag31 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1 / 1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone

Works like a charm, i have my one s and ps4 pro hooked up to this thing.

u/Clay-mo · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I think what you actually need is an HDMI switch

Something like this

u/cmorgasm · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You want an HDMI switch. Something like this. You'd also want an HDMI to DP adapter, or cable.

That way, PC to Yiynova via VGA, and PC to Dell and Switch to Dell via HDMI is possible.

u/xAsianZombie · 2 pointsr/PS4Pro

I use this one and it works great. I havent tried HDR, but according to the reviews HDR seems to work fine

u/B4LT1M0RE_ · 2 pointsr/xboxone

A splitter will work. I have this one coming from my receiver to my KS8000 on one side and a monitor on the other. Both look great.

u/dj3stripes · 2 pointsr/xboxone
u/parrxtt · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Okay, I would suggest an HDMI splitter. I do this same thing, I have an Xbox, and my PC running on the same monitor, sometimes I’ll even hook my laptop up to the monitor if I have something on it that I need to access that isn’t on my PC, the HDMI splitter is exactly what it sounds like, it’s a single output, multiple input splitter that, with the press of a button, changes the input routing to another HDMI, I use this for switching between Xbox and pc without having to unplug cables, and it sounds like it would work well for you also. They’re about $10-$15 on Amazon

edit: here’s a link to a nice little $10 splitter!

u/Dealj0bber · 2 pointsr/PS4

This is the simplest, most-reviewed one on amazon

10 bucks, and you don't have to get another cord. I'd try this one.

u/The_Scaninator · 2 pointsr/Monitors

The maximum refresh rate of VGA is 60Hz at 1080p, besides its an obsolete analogue connector. There's no point in using it with a flat panel display. You'd be much better of using an HDMI switcher like this, you'll get a sharper, cleaner picture with less lag.

u/wanderingbilby · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Sorry, no. It doesn't work that way. This switch is $11. If you don't have prime I'm sure a friend or coworker will buy it for you and you can give them the cash.

u/kghyr8 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player

I’ve used a splitter/switch before without issues.

u/ryanmenard_dot_net · 2 pointsr/Stadia

Just to offer a second option, I have this one. I owned the previous 4K30hz version and upgraded to this 4K60hz version when it came out. Never had a problem with it.

At the very least I would say you want to completely avoid any HDMI switches that don't have a dedicated power source. This one below is an example. It relies on the connected devices to provide power over HDMI which can lead to inconsistent performance.

u/largepanda · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You don't need a full KVM switch, just a basic HDMI one.

This is the one I got to switch between my Switch, hacked PS3, and any other random device I want to plug into my monitor. Works great. It's especially nice since it autoswitches to the first device that tries to output something; so if I was using my Switch, put it to sleep, and turn on my PS3, it switches without me having to press the button or anything.

u/wesgreer101 · 2 pointsr/VIZIO_Official

This one is the one I ha e and for the price it works great! The 4K on it works great as well! I have Nintendo Switch, my cable box, and my Xbox one s hooked up to it no issues at all!

u/m4jX · 2 pointsr/PS4

According to user reviews they all support HDR and 2160p60 4:4:4

If you want a brand name you can get

Ligawo 3090063 HDMI Switch

Sewell SwitchDeck, 4K HDMI 2.0 Switch

I own the Ligawo 5x1 myself.

u/TheCheshireCody · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Get a switch that has four or five HDMI inputs. Run everything through that. The trick, I suppose, is finding one that supports HDR across all of the inputs. Here's one for $50. There are undoubtedly lots of others, but this is the first I spotted that definitely has HDR support.

If the switch supports HDMI-CEC it will automatically switch to whatever the active device input is. The one I lined above doesn't specify HDMI-CEC, but it talks about "intelligent switching" that sounds like it either is HDMI-CEC or something equivalent.

Alternately, is a receiver and surround sound system an option? Even 5.1 will enhance your videogame and movie watching experience exponentially. It's obviously more expensive to implement but it can be phased in over time - get a used receiver and a couple of speakers, start with a 2.0 setup and add speakers as your budget allows.

u/CEM62793 · 2 pointsr/gaming
u/zakabog · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Is there any reason you have a chromecast connected to your computer monitor, when whatever it is you're chromecasting can easily be played on your computer? It sounds like what you're really looking for is a small audio receiver (or a switchbox, also you'll need line out from your monitor, not line in. Some receivers have a headphone jack, otherwise just connect your headphones to the headphone port on your case when you're looking to use it.

u/scottymoze · 2 pointsr/hometheater

A cheaper alternative to the Belkin:

Here's the top 100 digital-to-analog converters...about a zillion to pick from :)

u/thewatermellon · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Easiest cheapest simplest option is a 3.5mm splitter.

If you want to get fancy, you could get a 3.5mm switch box/selector with as many inputs as you'd like. Example 1 example 2

A switch box designed for rca would work as well, you'd just need an adapter cable from rca to 3.5mm, they're super cheap on Monoprice.

u/-SPOF · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Do you have any other inputs connected? If so, this could be a possible solution -

u/justathoughtfromme · 2 pointsr/hometheater

A search of "3.5 mm jack switch" brought up this in 0.94 seconds. Couple that with a couple 3.5 mm audio cables to join the sources with the switch and you're done.

u/P2000Camaro · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You'd have to buy something like this to do that.

u/dinglebarrybonds · 2 pointsr/sonos

I have used this for a Play 5 and it works great. Doesn't need to be powered or anything

2 PORT 3.5mm STEREO Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, wall or table available)

u/RelinquishedAll · 2 pointsr/audio

You'll want a switch, something like this.

u/arkhira · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is all you need: There are fancier options for a few dollars more as well.

u/-13- · 2 pointsr/videography

I know Zaxcom specializes in this type of gear, however it’s EXPENSIVE.

Maybe a low tech solution like this might do the trick...though I imagine you won’t be able to take into the walkie but at least you could listen in

2 Port 3.5mm Stereo Manual Switch Box AUX Audio Speaker selector(Wall Mount Hole Built-in, Wall or Table Available)

u/nightlyraider · 2 pointsr/audio

have you looked at audio input switchers? have 2-4+ inputs all going into 1 box that you can then send a single output to your receiver.

u/BSUWolf · 2 pointsr/battlestations

I went with Polk Audio setup. T15 bookshelf speakers, PSW10 sub (thing is a beast), throw in a Lepy LP-2020A-3A amplifier, and a AUX switch to go back and forth between the speakers and headphones and BAM that is the audio setup.

u/Knifey_McShanker · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

In the spirit of this sub, there is a circuit diagram included in that article that shows how to build a summing box :-)

I've never used one myself so I really can't speak to how cheap you can go without it being trash.

That being said, it's a super simple device so this will probably work fine:

u/Sgt_Thundercok · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Good eye. Yes, that's a Cambridge surround system w/woofer I've had for years. It's perfect.

The white remotes are for Phillips Hue bulb sets. One is for the ceiling lights and the other for the light strip behind the desk.

The silver box is an audio splitter I use to select from two sound sources to feed to the Cambridge system: PC sound, or my Sonos system sound, using a Sonos Connect.

Wrist pad.

u/chasenmcleod · 2 pointsr/PS4
u/primus202 · 2 pointsr/projectors

Looks like this is a common Epson problem. Maybe this is a good solution? Though I would still need to either run a cable from the switcher to my receiver or figure out a Bluetooth connection...

u/candre23 · 2 pointsr/AskTechnology

What you want is an "audio extractor". Since you have two HDMI devices and you need to switch back and forth, you also need a HDMI switch.

Luckily, there are switches with extractors built in, so you can kill both birds with one stone.

u/djd4ws0n · 2 pointsr/xbox

Two options I can think of...

If your TV or monitor has a headphone out, grab a 3.5mm cable and run it from the screen to your speakers. Added bonus is that the speakers will then work for whatever you have connected to the screen, not just the Xbox.

Alternatively, you'll need to use a converter.

I have a HDMI switch that has a 3.5mm out, which can be used with a pair of speakers much like the ones you have ( They're relatively inexpensive, and don't degrade the sound quality.

But ultimately, whether you go with the screen headphone out, the HDMI converter or the controller, each of these three methods is effectively converting the signal somewhere down the line.

u/Seyon_ · 2 pointsr/Twitch

Ello! I have recently purchased an Elgato and I had the same issue as you. I run the Elgato's Out HDMI through one of these and mute my monitor. So far it works great and my sound doesn't seem any worse than it did on my computer. (on board sound if you have a sound card quality may vary :) )

Hope this helps!

u/brick_mack · 2 pointsr/PSVR

Lmao $30 for an hdmi bidirectional splitter?! It's under 10 on [Amazon] (

u/Szalkow · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Get extra cables and connect the monitors via switchers. They exist for HDMI, DVI, and DisplayPort, in ascending order of over-priced-ness.

Alternatively, if you have enough cables and your monitors allow multiple inputs, you can have everything plugged in all the time and use the monitor's source selection menu.

u/elessarjd · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch
u/h0m3us3r · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Maybe I am missing some point, but why dont you just buy something like this: ? It is only $10 and I really doubt you can make it any cheaper, not even considering the time investment.

u/mandevwin · 2 pointsr/techsupport


Actually there are some ways you can do this. A KVM would be best (not sure how you can afford an alienware tower and a macbook pro, but not a simple peripheral device...)

These are just examples of the device types im talking about, i have not used these and will not suggest using them. Do your own research before buying stuff:


u/Kurupt_Introvert · 2 pointsr/PS4



This should work fine and you do not need any extra power, i have a similar one for non-4K

u/cougfan123 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

You could just buy an hdmi switch.. they are not expensive.

Here is a powered one on amazon for $15

u/bubbameister33 · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I purchased this one a while back. It's works really well for what I need it to do. It has my PS4, Wii U, and a Firestick attached to it.

u/Marauder2 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I bought mine from, but it is very similar to this one

Keep an eye on the supported resolution, 1080p vs 4k, and for the latter 30Hz vs 60Hz.

u/ZSnake · 2 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

I bought this one, changes the input automatically when you turn something in and it has a remote.

u/OminousG · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I use that to connect my ps3, ps4 and 360 to a single HDMI in. You can look for a 2 to 1 switch since thats what you would need, but you can't beat that price.

u/fixxxens · 2 pointsr/gadgets

Look for something like this:

Which will take care of the rca and dvi parts of your set up, then get a vga to hdmi cable and a display port to HDMI cable and plug them all into a HDMI "hub" like this:

I'm not entire sure what scart is but if you have questions let me know!

u/QuietJackal · 2 pointsr/PS4

This one is the one I use and works well, saw it on quite a few top lists.

u/Lobanium · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

HDMI switch

Seriously, it takes one Amazon or Google search.

u/StuckInTheRetroZone · 2 pointsr/emulation

buy console

buy this thing

put console on top of/behind/in drawer/on floor near PC

buy cheap games off amazon

enjoy all the games you missed

u/Ormriss · 2 pointsr/PS3

I've used this Fosmon 3 port switch with no problems. I use it to connect my PS3, Xbox 360, and Retron 5 so that my current gen consoles get their own dedicated HDMI port on my TV.

Fosmon 3 Port HDMI switch

u/TheChosenOne013 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

It’s not nearly as fancy as the one someone else posted, but I got this one four years ago and it works just fine AND it’s only $9.

u/roushimsx · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Definitely spring for an inexpensive hdmi switcher that covers what you need! It's a great, cheap way to be able to add in more stuff in your setup. I have a couple of different ones and they work well for my purposes:

  • The Fosmon pigtail only has devices hooked up to it that can be powered off (like the PS3). It doesn't support a remote, but it doesn't matter since the autoswitching wouldn't be affected by any continuous draw devices (like a Chromecast or FireTV). It doesn't require any power source.

  • The Kinivo 301BN is a lot more flexible. I have it programmed into my Harmony and configured for a multitude of devices, like my 360, Chromecast, Fire Stick, VitaTV, and PC. Since it supports a remote, it doesn't matter that I have devices that are always on connected to it, and the auto switching works like a peach. It requires an external power source.

  • Unfortunately, I ran out of ports on that sucker (it only has 5!), so I bought this TeckNet 3 port. Depending on how much power it can pull over the HDMI, it may not need a power source... I've used it in two setups, one where I was able to just daisy chain it to the Kinivo and one where I had to power it off the USB directly from a TV. Supports a remote, so I got it programmed into the Harmony and it works well for always on devices.

    ...also, if you haven't looked into unifying your whole setup with a Harmony-style solution, definitely give it a thought! Initial configuration can be a little annoying, but you kind of forget all about it once you're hopping between presets with single button presses. You don't need to go big money on it...the 650 is a great remote with a nice screen (basically like a fancier version of the Xbox 360 Harmony), or you can go with one of the higher dollar versions that uses your phone/tablet as the primary interface. Very customization, very cool.
u/coworker · 2 pointsr/hometheater

You can throw away the sound bar and replace it with a receiver and proper speakers. You could also upgrade your TV and use its optical out. Lastly you could be super ghetto and daisy chain HDMI switch to an HDMI splitter. You would then need to throw away whatever old device you have that didn't use HDMI.

u/Shadowcity2 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This should do nicely. With this device, you can switch between 3 input devices.

u/fuzzydunloblaw · 2 pointsr/computers

Here's a 3-port HDMI switch with ok reviews. Also it's only 12 bucks. The ad says it supports up to 1900x1200 resolution so if that's not enough I'd just search around for "HDMI switch" on amazon. Link

u/TheSwami · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

An HDMI Switch of some kind is probably easiest. You can get them wicked cheap if you're willing to wait awhile on shipping.

u/LongDevil · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You are aware that using an HDMI splitter will only mirror your PC on on both screens?

Two of these would do the trick though.

u/apple_6 · 2 pointsr/minines

But there is no way for me to add a power source to either one? I don't think so. I would assume there would need to be a port for that. If the fix was this easy, I'd be very happy. Here are the two HDMI switches I bought:

u/GrGoethals · 2 pointsr/audiophile

So you can see the row or red and black connectors on the back of the receiver, those are labeled for the available speaker locations. Standard speaker wire can be used on those as it kinda threads through then screws down tight (banana plug connectors can also be used if purchased). The backs of the speakers have a matching red and black connection that the wire screws into as well. So each speaker will have one red and one black connection.

In my case with this specific setup I am using the amplifier in a bi-amp configuration where I am utilizing the 'Front A' connections for left and right as well as the 'bi-amp' connections. The Klipsch speakers have 2 red and 2 black plugs on the back of them for this purpose. When Bi-amp'ed the speakers are able to use the extra power that another channel may use to give more clarity and over volume.

u/Sir0bin · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Yup, that subwoofer cable will work.


You can just buy a spool of speaker wire (like this) and that’s all you’ll need, although I recommend getting some banana plugs just to make it easier to unplug stuff if needed, but up to you.

u/johnrose81 · 2 pointsr/NewToVinyl

Get some banana plugs from Best buy. Easy to put the wire in them. Then just plug the banana cables into those holes. I got these. Work great!

u/dirty_dills · 2 pointsr/hometheater

There is also the closed-screw type, but I found them a little more difficult to install and the wire sticks out of the back, so it can make it more difficult to push the receiver closer to the wall.

u/dsmdylan · 2 pointsr/hometheater

So, toning them out has been thoroughly answered but to answer how you connect your AVR to this, make some short speaker wires with banana plugs on each end to jump between the wall plate and the AVR.

u/polypeptide147 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The micca speakers can use banana plugs or can just have the speaker wire put in them. They unscrew and there is a hole that you can put the wire through. Those are the banana plugs I use and they are great.

Also, this is more or less how it would work. That is with a DAC included. If you don't get a DAC, instead of 'computer usb' into the DAC, it will be a 3.5mm into the amp.

Hope this helps!

u/John2Nhoj · 2 pointsr/audio

Those aren't RCA type inputs on those speakers. They for either banana plugs or bare wire connection. You can cut the RCA jacks off of your speaker wires, then strip the ends down to bare wire..

You have to unscrew the red and black caps and insert the wires in the holes in the sides of the posts and then screw the caps back down to secure the wires.

Either that or you can buy banana plugs and connect those to the end of the wires. Then you just plug them into the holes in the center of the posts.

u/y0y0ma · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You have already mentioned that size is a factor. In that case, I can recommend Denon SC-F109, which are almost the same size and about £10 more. Tried, tested and impressed. Never heard the QAcoustics so cannot say anything, but the Denon has a lot of fans in Germany apart from me.

Both of your amps are good enough for desktop use. Get the SA 50 if you also plan on using it for a small party.

The wire seems a bit expensive to me. For that price you could get 100 feet of speaker cable and banana plugs and attach them yourself. All you need is a wire stripper or a pocket knife. In fact, I don't even use banana plugs; they are only convenient if you plan to connect/disconnect speakers often. 12 AWG would be too thick for your purpose, 16 AWG (or even 18) is good enough. You could also save some money by buying per meter (or feet as you're in the UK!) from some sellers or check your local classifieds to see if someone wants to get rid of their extra speaker cable. Also, I can vouch for this 3.5mm to RCA cable. These are a little more expensive, but very well made and don't usually suffer from contact issues.

PS: Just wanted to add some more information about speaker dimensions. H x W x D mm

  • Denon SC-F109 - 245 x 165 x 234

  • Wharfedale Diamond 9.0 - 236 x 145 x 165

  • Q Acoustics 2010i - 235 x 150 x 203

    So the Wharfedales really are the smallest of the lot, and the Denons the biggest but only in depth.
u/OriginalUzername · 2 pointsr/ZReviews
u/burpfartingsly · 2 pointsr/turntables

Try banana plugs for a more secure connection.

Monoprice 109436 Gold Plated...

u/oddsnsodds · 2 pointsr/audiophile

The owner's manual can be downloaded as a pdf from Denon's website. I'd do that to start.

You'll want an audio cable to connect the CD changer:

Speaker wire (recommended in the thread post):

And maybe banana plugs to connect the speaker wires. They aren't required but they make connecting stuff a lot easier:

Are you hooking up any other equipment?

u/EL_LUKEO · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Yeah great choice.

As far as cables, it really depends on how you have it set up.

The ideal scenario would be (for me at least):

  • All video sources into back of receiver with HDMI cables (premium high-speed if it's a 4K source)

  • One HDMI cable from receiver to HDMI 2 in TV (that's the ARC one). This allows you to use the TV apps (Netflix, Amazon, etc) to take advantage of the sweet, sweet Dolby Vision.

  • Speaker wiring. Depends on how you want to wire it. I did in wall wiring so I used CL2 rated wire for the in-wall runs which terminated at a banana plug wall plate behind the receiver and a banana clip wall plate behind F/L and F/R. Then I used clear 14 AWG speaker wire from the wallplates to the receiver and speakers. I went straight from the receiver to the center channel (which you don't have yet). I also pre-wired for surrounds and Atmos but haven't gotten the components (Atmos at least) yet.

  • Speaker wire termination.
    The speakers and receiver have the ability to connect to bare speaker wire but I went the route of using these banana clips for a cleaner look.

    Really it all depends on your set-up I guess. I can post some pics of mine to help clarify stuff as well.
u/dcarcher · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

I'll be honest, I haven't had time to really do an A/B test on them, and my schedule hasn't afforded me a lengthy listening session, but I am much more confident in these new cables.

I had previously been using this wire! with these banana plugs. They did the job, and I will continue to use those cables when testing equipment for functionality or if I do a temporary setup for a friend or something.

The new wire is 12 AWG single-conductor. I had considered doing 14 AWG dual-conductor (honestly just for looks), but I decided to go with the cheaper option. I may upload some pics at a later date as my setup has changed and moved around quite a bit since my first setup post.

u/_shadow_banned_ · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

Which solder on plugs do you use? Did you need a high wattage iron to heat it?

I use these plugs

u/SurpriseButtStuff · 2 pointsr/AndroidTV

That splitter plus an HDMI switch (like this one might be your best option.

My only concern would be the splitter supporting HDCP.

u/PeachSherbet · 2 pointsr/wiiu

Are you trying to have both hooked up at once so you don't have to keep switching the HDMI cable between the laptop and Wii U?

I think that's what you mean, and if it is you can probably just use this:

u/bdubble · 2 pointsr/makemychoice

You can always get an HDMI switcher box. Not a perfect setup, but I wouldn't let the number of HDMI ports keep you from an otherwise good choice.

u/Olivares_ · 2 pointsr/PS4

PORTTA PET0301S 3x1 Port HDMI Switch/Switcher 1080P Supports 3D with IR Wireless Remote Ultra High...

Good reviews works great with ps4

u/MattyD85 · 2 pointsr/cordcutters

I have this one

Cheap as all hell and does the job!

u/Silveran · 2 pointsr/buildapc

If your videocard's hdmi port is already in use, you have a couple of options. 1. connect the new monitor using the DVI port. 2. purchase an hdmi switcher.

I use something like this to switch between my PC, Xbox360 and PS4.

Option 1 is the cheapest as it uses an existing port and your monitor will most probably come with a DVI cable. I would recommend option 2 only if you are looking to push audio via the hdmi cable to a monitor with speakers.

u/jercb123 · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

just buy a hdmi splitter.

i just bought this one and its kinda shitty ir doesnt work but the switch works. There are much better ones available

u/Savedme2 · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I have one! It's not perfect but it works well enough to get the job done and it's better than switching cords around. This one is what I have. I have had it since September 2014 and my only issues are:

Sometimes when I power my TV and device (I have PS4, PS3, and DirecTV plugged in to it) It will be on the channel of the thing I have on but will display no image

Sometimes I will have no audio when I turn the stuff on

The remote is not RFID and I'm spoiled, you have to point it right at the little sensor and the sensor's wire isn't very long.

The audio and image issues are easily solved by just changing the channel back and forth on the splitter.

u/iamworkingkinda · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You may want to consider something like THIS then.

This one is VGA and I imagine you have DVI or HMDI, so you'll have to do some searching.

Edit: Fixed the link.

u/RolandsFury · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I plan on using an HDMI switch going into the XB1. $10 on Amazon..

u/PhDExtreme · 2 pointsr/buildapc

This is what I have, I ran out of hdmi ports so I use this. It works by always being defaulted to #1 output, but if it senses signal from a different port it automatically switches. It also comes with a remote in case you want to switch hdmi outputs manually.

u/Failedjedi · 2 pointsr/PS4

I can't find it, there are like dozens of cheap ones on amazon, and the brands are always changing. My exact one isn't there anymore, but this one looks close.

u/distephano87 · 2 pointsr/gaming

Here's a switch that can do up to 8 different inputs. Probably your best bet:

(sidenote, the photograph on amazon is actually two units stacked on top of each other. It's half that size. All the plugs go in the back, buttons in the front)

u/evilpaul · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I have one of the same selectors and they are great. Might be worth getting it, I remember them hard to find but this was years ago.

If you want something from Amazon, I have this one and I know it's recommended on here a lot.

u/OldSkooRebel · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

I was tired of keeping a sticky note on my switchbox to know which switch did what. Whole thing cost me around 3 dollars. Sorry if this post is somewhat irrelevant to the sub.

Switchbox I used:

Link to the labels:

EDIT: forgot to mention this, but I'll make custom labels for anyone that asks. Just number the console labels you want

u/captain_herbal_life · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Here's one with 8 inputs. Two of these daisy chained would work well.

u/DigitalSlim · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting
u/Volkendo · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

Ah, cable management, every collector's nightmare. Do yourself a favor and go the extra mile now while you can organize it from the beginning instead of just getting it all set up and worrying later. It's a real pain in the ass to wade through cables and the like. I'd recommend finding yourself an AV switch kinda like this. It will save you a lot of hassle if you dont have enough ports on your TV, and judging by your spread, you probably will need one. That way you can twist-tie all your cables from the get go without having to worry about them going loose from plug-switching. Also, invest in a nice surge protector.

u/fuimani · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Just plug the DAC's output into the "out" and the output to your speaker and headphone amp to two of the "inputs". Not as the product's intended to work, but it does indeed work.

EDIT: Or you could go cheaper and just get a cable splitter... Although this option gives you vaguely more functionality and a much nicer box.

u/michaelboulerice · 2 pointsr/gaming

I use two of these switch boxes to toggle between consoles. It's not the cleanest/slickest setup, but they're cheap and they work!

u/Talkurt · 2 pointsr/retrogaming

Yes both are av switches. The one with s-video is and the one with just composite is

The S video switch has five inputs and two outputs, the composite switch has eight inputs and one output. The one with S video is autoswitching but requires power. If I had it to do again I would just buy two autoswitching S video boxes. They were cheaper and easier to use. Quality on both seems good.

u/act-of-reason · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The Yellow Composite Cable is shared with the Green Component input (second pic where it says "Video/Y"). Then just plug in the red & white audio to the left of that.

Then get something like this to switch consoles.

u/brp · 2 pointsr/hometheater

This and This should sort you out.

u/blackjakals · 2 pointsr/audio
u/Joey19990 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Take a look at this. I use this for my game collection. I still have to use two switches though.

u/RagnarokDel · 2 pointsr/Quebec

au pire. C'est typique d' de charger 5 fois plus cher :p

De toute façon, même à 65$ c'est pas cher pour une solution tout en un

u/aftli_work · 2 pointsr/techsupport

/u/JudaiMustang is right - wired is the way to go.

If for some reason that's entirely impractical for you, maybe check out Steam Link if you're wanting to play games on your TV. Beware that it will not work as well, especially on 2.4GHz wireless.

u/idlephase · 2 pointsr/appletv

You're not going to the response time via AirPlay. You might want to consider getting a Steam Link if you want to stream Steam games from your PC/Mac to your TV.


GameStop (sale - $19.99)

Amazon (sale - $19.99)

u/MaximumDan · 2 pointsr/RandomActsOfGaming

I am not based in the US, so unfortunately, due to regional restrictions, Steam does not allow me to gift any hardware.

However, this item is available on Are you able to create an amazon wishlist for this?

u/naxelk · 2 pointsr/Steam
u/DublinBen · 2 pointsr/audio

This switch or anything like it should do the trick.

u/morning19 · 2 pointsr/pcgaming

Hey I used to want a way to switch quickly between speakers and headset. I use Windows 10 and this thing works perfectly for me.

u/Mrcool360 · 2 pointsr/PS4

You can use an inline switch like this:

Audio Speaker / Headset Switching Hub, Manhattan 172851

Or something similar.

u/deadmul3 · 2 pointsr/gaming

you need something like this

or this

rf (radio frequency) modulator or a really old TV!

u/gamesoverlosers · 2 pointsr/pics

Your TV doesn't have an ATSC receiver at all? Weird.
That'll fix that up though.

u/funderbunk · 2 pointsr/VintageApple

The Apple II has a composite video output - but you need an RF modulated signal for your tv. So, you can take the composite video signal to an RF modulator, like this one. If your television doesn't have a coaxial antenna input, you'll also need an antenna matching transformer, like this one.

u/yeti_button · 2 pointsr/nes

thank you! I think I have this one in a box somewhere. Hopefully I can find it and test it out

u/Drill_Dr_ill · 2 pointsr/SSBM

I'm not positive, as I've never used anything like it before, but I imagine you would need something like this:

No idea about any potential lag.

u/MIDNIGHTZOMBIE · 2 pointsr/howto

Here is one on in case you're a shut-in like me.

Also, on your digital converter box, if the red,yellow,white cables are marked as "input" and the thick cable with the metal end is marked as "output" or "TV" then you don't need to buy anything. You could plug the gamecube into the box and put the TV on the appropriate channel.

u/spunker88 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You'll need a AV cable for the Xbox 360 that will have RCA outputs on it, something like this. Then an RF modulator, this will allow your cable TV to pass through if you connect it to the ANT IN. Also if you have an old VCR laying around you can use that instead of buying an RF modulator.

u/killfluffy · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I would likely use either 2x4 or 2x6 instead of 2x10.

  • Drill pilot holes in those braces that you will drive the lag bolts through into the studs

  • Finish the 2x4 or 2x6 you use before mounting it to the wall. When faced with this, I actually used a piece of 1" good quality plywood that I sanded down, routed the edges nicely, primed, and painted before sticking on the wall. Whatever you wind up using, make it look good even if you think you're never going to see it.

  • Buy these and install them before hanging the tv on the wall. Read the instructions thoroughly.

  • Buy these and stick them into the other things. Read the instructions thoroughly.

  • You can get brackets that attach to the back of the tv mount that hide things like cable boxes, set top boxes, etc. We have Google Wifi hubs mounted behind our two wall mounted tv's to free up space on the surfaces the stands one stood on. They make brackets for everything, including generic brackets and even specific ones for like Nvidia Shield Console.

  • Check cable length. If snaking cables through the wall, you may need to get longer HDMI cables.

    Some Links



u/quiero_creer · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Dunno where you live but an electrician should be able to wire and install one of these as well as one of these on an adjacent wall for about $200.

u/Inndee · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Cut out two holes in my wall and mounted these plates

Ran the wires behind the wall.

u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

When I wall mounted my TV, I used one of these recessed wall plate to pass the power and HDMI cable through the wall to the TV:

The cables can be positioned at any angle, so they don't stick out at far. Actually, if you look at a female HDMI wall plate, the cable is sticking out straight out of the wall and harder to hide behind a mounted TV.

Honestly, I don't see the benefit of a HDMI wall plate over a cable passthrough plate. Either way, you have a HDMI cable and power cable running from the wall to the TV. One isn't "cleaner" than the other.

If you want a power outlet instead of just the cord for some reason, this is also an option:

u/pixelprophet · 2 pointsr/InteriorDesign

If that is the case then I would consider purchasing a number of the in-wall cable management gangs and running the wires though the walls as close to their intended location.

Also, since you already have power running there, you can look for this type of in wall management system, and simply widen the existing holes.

u/MizzouRah · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Totally agree -- going for these

I don't trust the pass-through capability of the HDMI couplers for differing HDMI standards.

u/cannonimal · 2 pointsr/MLBTheShow

If you are allowed to drill holes (I see the TV is mounted), you really should do something like this:

Datacomm Electronics 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White

u/super_not_clever · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Yup, you cut a pair of holes in the wall. If you want to throw money at the problem, you can install something like this to get both power and a spot for cabling up there. Or if you're handy, you can install your own outlet and just get some brush plates for your HDMI etc.

u/wlpaul4 · 2 pointsr/watercooling

Amazing work man!

If you own your own place (or don't care about large holes in the wall) might I suggest one of these.

Really makes a huge difference in how clean something looks.

u/arnoldstrife · 2 pointsr/DIY

I would highly recommend just getting something like this, It's not really that much extra effort. you run the wires like you already did, but you use a solid wire rated for in-wall inside the wall.


Exactly what might happen if you just use a normal extension cable in the wall. I'm not sure besides potential fire hazard (extension cables do heat up as you run current through it, normal it dissipates it just because it's lying around. Being insulated within the wall sounds like a potentially bad idea).

u/alitanveer · 2 pointsr/battlestations

Really cool looking setup. Just want to point out a few things.

  1. The power cord for the monitors is not rated for in-wall use and is against code. You should get one of these.

  2. You're putting a lot of stress on the glass with that clamp holding up four monitors. It may look thick and secure, but it will shatter on you one day and break all four monitors when they fall down. Get a thin piece of wood and run it underneath your table along the back edge. Secure the clamp onto that piece of wood rather than directly against the glass. Home Depot, or any other home improvement store, will have really good looking appearance boards. Get a 1x4 cut to the length of the table right at the store and attach it to the bottom of the glass using contact cement. The clamp will keep it in place and distribute the load much more evenly.
u/germanplumber · 2 pointsr/DIY
u/oxjox · 2 pointsr/InteriorDesign

Umm, actual professional AV Installer here.

  1. Customers hate being told they have bad ideas.
  2. People will think this person is nuts if they don't put the tv over the fireplace plus it's kind of a small area so, yeah, the tv's going over the fireplace.
  3. There's a ton of room behind the top of the fireplace opening because the entire FP unit itself if made of metal and placed in to the framed out wall. The key is what's below you, is it open or finished basement? I'm assuming open or drop ceiling.
  4. What you want to do is get your cables (including romex) down the inside of the wall just to the side of the fireplace. It looks like about 6 inches wide there. There's an decent amount of wood so you can cut a 1 1/2 inch hole through the floor (inside the wall!). It looks like the right side will have the gas feed, you'll know this by the chrome key plate on the wall, so use the other side for your cables just to be on the safe side.
  5. Depending on the tv bracket you get (and the weight of your tv), you may need to secure a sheet of plywood to the wall first. Better yet, I would cut out a good amount of sheet rock (2x4ft) so you can stick your whole head and shoulders in the wall to see where your cables are going. Then just cover that hole up with the plywood.
  6. I'd go with a small cabinet just below those windows there to hold your cable box, xbox, av gear, etc. It looks like there's already a cable outlet there so when you're in the basement you'll want to come up right along side that with all your cables. Bring your romex up along there too but in a different stud cavity. You want to keep a minimum of 6 inches of space between high voltage and low voltage and if they have to cross be sure it's at 90 degrees.
  7. Buy this or something like it to extend the electric. This will pass NEC code. Extension cords are not allowed inside the walls. Plug it in to the wall under those windows or better yet get a good surge protector.
  8. Sorry, just realized this is a 2month old post. How did it go?! haha
u/ponchoboy · 2 pointsr/beetle

The easiest thing may be one of these, or something similar:

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios

Maybe they make a Bluetooth one too... If not you could always use one of those stand alone ones and just run it into this.

u/Matad0r0 · 2 pointsr/subaru

I have an 01' but Im pretty sure that this, or something similar, will work and it looks pretty stock, you also need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor, I got this one
this thing basically bypasses your FM antenna and gives you an aux input, I put mine under the climate control and the input and switch are hidden behind the DIN pocket

it looks like the antenna size might be different in the 06(i cant really tell), but there are adaptors

u/ElLechero · 2 pointsr/Denver

Idk, but back in the day when I had this kind of setup I had great luck with inline antenna bypass unit, the sound was near perfect. However, that might be more work than you're looking to invest into this.

u/raygundan · 2 pointsr/funny

> They're stuck with cds or those horrible radio adaptors that always play Mexican radio channels with the same song in a loop at random moments.

You can buy a wired FM modulator that will do much better. Same idea as the little transmitter dongles, except instead of competing with all the other real transmissions bouncing around, you connect it directly to the antenna connector on the back of your stereo.

u/popsicle_of_meat · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

Might be easier to just get an amplifier that has speaker-level inputs. The speaker wires from the head unit go to the amp, then run the amp outputs to the speakers you want. Usually the speaker level inputs on the amp have gain adjustments and some other switches.

For the mp3 player, I'd put an FM modulator between the antenna and the head unit. Like THIS. You select the radio frequency you want to 'inject' the aux signal at and tune to that station to hear it. I think some of these units even integrate bluetooth.

Also, check out /r/carav for possibly better info.

u/matneyx · 2 pointsr/CarAV

I've had a handful of FM transmitters -- all wired, but that shouldn't make a difference -- and I've had mixed results.

The last one I bought, though, worked great -- I just can't remember which one it was, and I gave it to my sister.

So, you'll likely run into the same issues you've already dealt with with FM transmitters.

Another option is an antenna bypass:

Any one who can install a car stereo should be able to hook that up.

u/tizakit · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

You are always going to need more stuff. Go pick out a radio at and see what they tell you needs to go with it. You can probably find similar parts on amazon too.

FM transmitter is really hard to recommend. You can try an FM modulator though. Basically the same thing, except it pipes the FM signal directly inline to the antenna, instead of going over the air. Not sure what your OEM antenna connection is, this may also require additional parts.

I just checked crutchfield. You need the standard wiring harness, antenna adapter and trim ring. If you want to cut your factory harness (not recommended) you can get away with out the harness, but always a pain.

Connect it up with solder or waterproof crimp caps.

u/Splendiks · 2 pointsr/Miata

You can tap directly into the FM antenna to provide a new input. From there you could do wired Aux, or go Bluetooth.

Here's an example (no experience with this specific item):

u/devont · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

  1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.

  2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.

    This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.

    This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.

    Good luck!
u/thadjudkins · 2 pointsr/iphone

There are two ways to do FM transmitters. The over-the-air ones just transmit on FM over an open spot on the dial and you pick it up but these are very susceptible to noise and issues. On the other hand, there are FM modulators and plug in between the radio and the antenna and give you a switch and an aux in port. When flipped, the radio then receives a signal (sent as FM into the antenna port) from the aux in port. They're pretty cheap and avoid some of the interference issues. Here's an example.

Alternatively, you'd add a line-in. In my case the radio didn't have one but I bought something that plugs into an open spot for a CD changer on the back of the radio and gives me an aux-in. It cost the same as the fm modulator and I wasn't using the cd-changer input anyway so I went that direction.

u/_Jardi · 2 pointsr/SBU

One of these:

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios

Basically it goes inline with your antenna wire, and then plugs into the stereo jack on your phone (as an interrupt). I haven't touched my radio in YEARS.
Tune to the station the device is set at (around 87.3 or something) and you're set.
It DOES (hardly) interfere with signal, but it's minimal and goes back when you turn it off. I have the power to mine go on when I turn my stereo on.

Pairs well with one of these, which allows you to rid of the wire all together by using bluetooth.

There are cheaper ones, but this is the one I've got.

Bluetooth Car Adapter with 2 Built-in Mics, 15 Hours Hands-Free Talking Bluetooth Receiver

As a bonus, while you've got your dash disassembled, this works well too. Get rid of your cigarette lighter, and replace it with a permanent USB Quick Charge jack. This one is silver, but they have others.

u/Bdf1997 · 2 pointsr/Acura

There is a system that I've seen that intercepts the antenna plug into the stock radio, and connects via an aux cord or Bluetooth to a phone. When the radio is set to a given frequency it channels into the adapter and streams your music as though it was broadcast like any other radio station. It offers a higher quality sound and is generally more reliable than a traditional fm transmitter, and requires no real alteration.

Here is one on Amazon:

u/firebirdude · 2 pointsr/CarAV

While battery powered transmitters do exist, the best solution for you is going to be a wired FM modulator. Hardwired behind the factory radio and gives you undisputed better sound quality than any transmitter ever could.

u/ArtVents · 2 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I have one of these and I adore it. It can be attached to any car stereo with an fm antenna port, and can provide you with an rca-in. There are a few models that allow Bluetooth too, but they climb up in cost. :)

u/kylesach · 2 pointsr/cars

Wired FM modulator. Works with any car and you won't get the drop in quality you would get with a wireless transmitter.

u/EliteGinger · 2 pointsr/XTerra

What you mean is an FM modulator... like this:

I had one, and they sound like shit, but you can add an AUX to a radio system that didn't previously have one.

u/Immatix · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Something like this might work better if you intend on keeping the factory radio.

u/mooninitespwnj00 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I'd recommend:

Roku Stick, Raspberry Pi with Kodi and Retro Pie. That'll get you everything you need. For Kodi and Retro Pie, you can have both running where you don't have to reboot or swap SD cards, as shown here.

To run your PC through the projector, you can use cat5e with HDMI baluns. You can route that through the wall, attic, and down the wall to your projector, or you can just run it around the perimeter of the room.

To have everything run through the projector, you can pick up a simple HDMI switch online for something like $30.

To control everything, you could probably figure out a way to make a Harmony remote handle the work, or you can use your phone if it has IR.

u/Stormcrow426 · 2 pointsr/wiiu

Off topic: I ran into the problem of not having enough HDMI on my TV as well and this little device has been amazing at getting all consoles onto one TV. I have 3 HDMI on my TV so I have Live Television one the first, this adapter; which has all of my consoles (Wii U, Xbox One, and PS4) ,and the last is for my PC.

u/Genghis_Tron187 · 2 pointsr/PS4

I have something like this for my main setup:

You can have it switch inputs automatically, and it comes with a remote. Fairly cheap solution without buying a whole new monitor.

u/5kPercentSure · 2 pointsr/techsupport

I'm wondering if HDCP would prevent the use of a splitter with Xbox One. I see that listing specifically says it doesn't support HDCP.

One thing that would probably work is an HDMI switch like this one but you would have to manually switch between the two TVs. It wouldn't output to both of them at the same time. They're typically used for plugging two video sources into one HDMI port on the TV. I'm not sure if they work the other way arround

u/theBloodShed · 2 pointsr/oculus

HDMI initiates device identification and authentication during a handshake using HDCP. The secure key generated during authentication prevents connecting multiple devices to the same output.

You could use an HDMI switch box though.

u/TheRealTrapGod · 2 pointsr/xboxone

This is the cheapest one with decent reviews and it works really good for me.

u/Knottian · 2 pointsr/xboxone

Hi there Steve! I had a similar predicament about six months ago when we set up a secondary HT system in our bedroom and I actually bought a different Konivo model that has three HDMI-outs. It's been working splendidly ever since; I should note that it replaced another splitter (the PORTTA PET0301S) that died after only a couple months, so the fact that our new model is working problem-free is a relief.

Edit: Forgot to mention the splitter I recommended is self-powered and also will auto-select the active port, which is definitely a nice addition.

u/Arkesios · 2 pointsr/buildapc

For that use case, you could also go with an HDMI switch--something like this:

u/DoctrPenguin · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

As far as your first question goes, the Switch itself wouldn't be able to automatically unless your TV also supports that. Some TVs will auto switch to a different input if a new signal is detected. If your TV does not have that feature then you can use a device like I use to give your TV more HDMI inputs (Kinivo HDMI switch). This device auto switches to the device that just turned on. You leave your TV on the same input and this device handles all the switching. It comes with a control to manually switch inputs as well. Something to consider!

Your second question...I haven't read anything on whether or not that will be a feature. I don't think we know at this time.

Edit: Wording.

u/FunkadelicToaster · 2 pointsr/sysadmin

Buy 10 of these
2 of these
1 of these

and a bunch of HDMI cables

u/TheXypris · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I'm planning my PC setup, and I want to connect my PC to a TV, problem is I don't have enough HDMI slots to connect my PC, ps4, cable box and Nintendo switch, so I need an HDMI switcher, this is the one I found on Amazon; Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p
Anyway my question is, will this work? Are there better options for a better price?
Also, I am going to get a dedicated monitor down the line but until I have the money for it and I can find one I like, my TV is going to be my primary monitor, so no answers along the lines of "just buy a monitor"

u/podboi · 2 pointsr/buildapc

An HDMI switch maybe and then adapt each composite input into HDMI with one of these to be able to plug into the switch.

That's gonna be a converter for each of the older consoles (PS2, GameCube and N64) then the rest (Xbox 360, Wii) they run HDMI native IIRC so they just plug into the HDMI switch.

u/bizzle4shizzled · 2 pointsr/gamecollecting

For an HDMI switch, I use this: Kinivo Switch, and it works great. I have a PS4, XB1, Wii U, Switch and PS3 hooked up to it. I have no issues with it, and recommend it. I am running everything at 1080, though.

I also have 2 of the Pelican System Selector Pro 2.0's that I absolutely love. Each one has 6 inputs, capable of switching composite, s-video and component. You have to run the appropriate outputs, so you are really limited to using 1 type of output realistically. If you get fancy with the output wiring you can mix and match, but I like to keep it simple. I use S-Video for everything that supports it into the selectors and then into a Toshiba CRT TV. I don't see any on eBay right now, but that's pretty much where you're gonna find them. I really like mine and recommend trying to scoop one up.

I used to run the regular Pelican System Selectors that had push buttons to switch sources. They work, but don't look as slick as the Pro's and Pro 2.0's.

Mixing inputs gets tricky, and I typically run different switching units for different types of outputs (s-video, component, HDMI). Here is a link to my setup I posted on reddit a few weeks ago: my setup

u/Tensor3 · 2 pointsr/hometheater

The HDMI handshake always takes some time, and Windows is particularly annoying with displays in my experience. Even if I plug my display in directly without any interruption or switching, simply changing between "active" and "disabled" in Windows causes all connected displays to turn on and off for several seconds. Windows often scrambles which display has my icons and open programs, too. I see how that'd be a big problem for you. Its not home and not theater, but I'm looking into it.

The ideal approach off the top of my head would be to have the display already "on" and connection negotiated, then just not display the image until its needed. I've got a few ideas:

- There are fast HDMI switchers out there. They are the ones that have an option to display which ever input is currently active, but support only one output each. They are cheap, though. This product on Amazon claims that the connected PCs can have their output as "always on", then it simply displays either the first active one or the one selected via remote. $40

- Try looking into "presentation switchers" instead. They start pretty cheap at B&H, but would do more what you want. KannexPro, for example,even has UltraFast HDMI switchers boasting 0.2 seconds switching time. This particular one is pricier at $500, but it says it can pre-store the EDID information of multiple displays to switch HDCP signals faster:

- Perhaps instead of connecting them as displays, have you tried adding a capture card to the PCs and connecting the output of that to a switch? This should at least negate Windows messing with it

- Or, alternatively have a PC/laptop/cheap Android tablet connected to the projector, and have it remotely display the content of one of the other PCs via wired LAN? You can probably get a sufficient connection going over LAN

u/Spectre_II · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You're talking about an HDMI switcher or a splitter? Assuming you mean a switcher, I'd recommend Kinivo. Good quality and even comes with a remote to change input so you don't have to get up and push a button on it.

u/anonRedd · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Has anyone used any of these HDMI switchers before?

I'm getting one for use with my Switch/Wii U/SNES Classic/NES Classic

u/AnthonyWithNoH · 2 pointsr/videography

I'd recommend this if you don't need to view them simultaneously:
I use it for switching between HDMI device inputs on my TV... it's responsive... less then a second between changing inputs. Just run the 3 HDMI cables into this and then 1 out to a monitor. You won't even need a laptop. I like this option better then simultaneous anyways because you can get a full screen view.

u/Corrinth · 2 pointsr/Games

I maxed out connections on my TV very quickly, as my 51" plasma only has 2 HDMI inputs. I have one HDMI cable running to my PC, and the other to my PS3. To make matters worse, the inputs are on the back of the TV and it's mounted on a wall.

So what I do is just leave the same cable plugged into the TV at all times, and if I ever want want to play my 360, I'll unplug the HDMI cable from the back of the PS3 and stick it into the 360. It's a lot easier than having to fumble around behind the TV. But not everyone has easy access to the back of their PS3/360 like I do, and even for me it's still annoying... Good thing I don't play my 360 much.

However, there is such a thing as an HDMI splitter.

u/Bleuonej · 2 pointsr/HelpMeFind

An HDMI switch turns one HDMI port into five. Would this help?

Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p

u/staticsnake · 2 pointsr/AskGames

I have been using this one for about half a year with a lot of success. I also bought a big pack of AmazonBasics long HDMI cables to go with it. I think at the beginning I had one issue with a screen flickering, but I unplugged and replugged and I haven't had an issue for a long time. My real issue is when I'm playing PS4 in the morning and my PS3 comes on to auto-update and this switcher auto-switches to the PS3. Gah! Wait a min switchy thing. Just have to push the button on it to force switch when that happens. I like it so far.

If it helps, I have a PS4, PS3, Steam Streamer Box, PS2, and Wii all plugged into it going into a Samsung HDMI TV (not 4K).

If you're curious, I have HDMI adapters in the Wii and PS2, so that's how that works. They also are great and I got them off Amazon, can't recall which obscure brand. Though they do occasionally have their issues since they're all weird knockoff checp things.

u/sandy_lyles_bagpipes · 2 pointsr/hometheater

I bought a Kinivo 501BN and have been very happy with it. It has 4 in and 1 out, so between this and the other HDMI input on your receiver, you'd have your needs met.

My only complaint about the Kinivo product is that you can't disable the auto-switching.

u/DITC01 · 2 pointsr/PS4

I highly recommend this one, I have it and have had zero issues with it.

u/Zinterax · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Having an issue using an hdmi switch + audio extractor and wanted to see if anyone had some ideas.

Currently I'm using this 5 port switch which then outputs to this audio extractor which is then fed into my PC for listening. This works perfectly for my PS4 but I get no audio when the switch is docked.

u/duckduck_goose · 2 pointsr/htpc

I have this but it does have 1 dead input and WAS $29.99 when I bought it. It auto detects usually when I turn on a new device.

u/juiceqc · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Most HDMI switches only changes the input based on power state changes and not on modern CEC commands that Chromecast uses when you start casting.

Chromecast is always on so it won't work, it will only forward the command to set the correct input on the TV and not on the switch itself, unless you're willing to pay more for a CEC-Enabled Switch. And I think at this point you should be looking to upgrade your TV/AVR so you can have CEC built in instead.

Then if you need more HDMI inputs, you can get a cheap one like this. Using it for more than a year and ARC and CEC passthrough works perfectly. It also switch back to the last active device in order when you shutdown one and never needed to use the remote!

u/Albafika · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Would like to know about this one:

Planning on getting it, but I'm now not sure if it works okay with the Switch.

u/ronwm · 2 pointsr/tekthingers

Kinivo 501BN is supported according to the Harmony compatibility page. Won't be setting it up until after the holidays, so I can't speak from personal experience.

u/jsdeprey · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

He said it was in the software already, many devices are already in the Harmony database.

I bought this one back in 2012 and I still use it with my harmony, pretty sure it was already in the database.

u/kellylc · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Kinivo 501BN, been using this exact model since i bought the switch in may last year

was using the 3 port one before i bought the switch though

u/Electrium · 2 pointsr/PS4

Not a specific TV recommendation, but remember that you can just buy a cheap HDMI switch if the model you want doesn't have enough HDMI ports. At that budget that's a real possibility. Honestly, I would recommend one anyway because many will automatically detect what input is being used and switch for you.

u/dboney · 2 pointsr/minines

This is the one I use and it works flawlessly.

Amazon HDMI

u/MussNuss · 1 pointr/audioengineering

Does the Belkin switch work with just the computer output plugged in?

Also I saw this one. It might work for you.

u/Aspirant_Fool · 1 pointr/techsupport

If the speakers have USB and 3.5mm, then they're using USB for power and getting audio from your built-in sound card. You'll have to look through the control panel for the sound card to see if it has that option anywhere. If it doesn't, you have a few options.

  1. You could buy a separate sound card with better options. I wouldn't go this route.
  2. You could buy something like this, which I also wouldn't recommend.
  3. Most monitors have a headphone jack, and your video card can send audio to your monitor. You could connect one of your devices to your monitor, and the other directly to your PC, and switch between them using the Sound window. Your video card's audio output should be listed as 'NVIDIA High Definition Audio', and there will be several, but you can right-click each and choose Test to figure out which one is connected to your monitor. If your monitor doesn't have built-in speakers, you should connect your headphones (or speakers) first, then test.
u/Onuma1 · 1 pointr/AlternativeAmazonVGF

I've been using one of these for about a decade. It's not cool looking, but it's simple, effective, and inexpensive.

My mic isn't hooked through it anymore, since that is USB, and I've never tried a 2.5mm headset (cell phone or XB360 style) with it, but I tend to choose form over function.

u/RedVivid · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'm assuming you'd need an audio-switch, something like so:

This will allow you to connect both devices (speakers and headset) to your computer, and switch between both with the click of a button. Comes down to preference on exactly what type of device you want- as well as what your hardware requires (how many jacks are needed..etc)

u/trustinbacon · 1 pointr/techsupport

You can get a hardware switch like this one or this one.

u/SyrioForel · 1 pointr/techsupport

No. Using one disables the other, ports and all.

But based on your description of what you're trying to accomplish, I think this $15 product (or something like it) is exactly what you need

u/doctechnical · 1 pointr/AskReddit

Depends on how many cables you're going to have to buy. The link you have is for an AV switcher, which is going to have 3 RCA jacks for each input/output (video, l-audio, r-audio). Your laptop almost certainly has a stereo headphone output jack, so that's 1 cable right there. What are the other two things you're gonna plug into the box, and what kind of jacks/plugs do they have?

Maybe this is more like what you need...?

u/tinwhistler · 1 pointr/AskReddit

I had to get a hardware solution for this, as the headphone jack on my wife's computer doesn't mute the speakers.

Something like:

Though the one I got was a chinese import and cost about $4.00. Don't remember where I got it from, though.

u/Vorthas · 1 pointr/Gaming4Gamers

I'm liking my Creative Fatal1ty headset, I'm hearing impaired so sound quality really doesn't affect me unless it's NOTICEABLY bad. I find this headset to be comfortable on my head and it works out pretty well. Also so I don't have to keep swapping between speaker and headset, I also purchased one of these to swap between the two with just a button press.

u/eeyore134 · 1 pointr/pcgaming

I just use a media hub (Amazon link) that you plug the speakers into one side and headphones into another. It offers a secondary level of volume control and just swaps back and forth with a button press. I know if my headphones are playing that my speakers aren't and vice versa.

u/gatormk · 1 pointr/headphones

Use a 3.5mm switch or hub. Probably something like this. Caution: I have not used it personally.

u/johnny_fortune · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm using this nice 13$ audio switch from Amazon. Works well. Not the best sound quality but totally worth the price.

u/go_ninja_go · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm looking for a piece of hardware that will allow me to switch between my 5.1 speaker system and my headphones with one button.

I tried getting a switch but it only works for my headphones. When I siwtch to speakers, only the subwoofer and center speaker work.

I'd like to do this without getting another sound card, but that's starting to seem less likely.

Any suggestions?

u/xenomachina · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

Get an RF modulator, like this one, and connect it to a coax splitter. The RF modulator will take a composite video signal and analog audio (ie: the typically yellow+red+white RCA connections) and convert it into a signal on channel 3 or 4 (typically).

You could then use whatever device that you can find that generates composite video. If you want to use a USB drive you will need some kind of relatively modem hardware to decode compressed digital video. You could use a Raspberry Pi. Some models have composite out, and for audio connect a 3.5mm to RCA adapter to the headphone jack.

If the signal to the TVs isn't strong enough, you can get powered splitters that will also amplify the signal. I doubt that will be an issue, though, as the RF modulator itself is powered, and so should be generating a pretty strong signal.

u/throwawaygphm · 1 pointr/crtgaming

I have an old CRT TV that only has an RF input connection. Would I be able to use an HDMI to composite adapter like this and a composite to RF converter like this to connect it to my PC? I understand RF is the worst video connection, but will it look acceptable? Will there be any problems with either 240p or 480i inputs?

u/Hoole100 · 1 pointr/playstation
u/zeisss · 1 pointr/videos

I'm going to bet someone is just messing around with an RF modulator on a Raspberry Pi or something.

It would explain the crappy analog signal.

u/nightscout01 · 1 pointr/crtgaming

Something like this should work well for you:
I have no personal experience with this modulator, but this type of thing is what you want.

u/kamomil · 1 pointr/ota

You will need a converter box, eg. an HD tuner, a set top ATSC box. Any signals broadcast now are not compatible with an analog TV

Then this, to connect the tuner to the portable TV

u/Techno_11 · 1 pointr/cableadvice


Plus This:

And I assume you have a cable to plug into the adapter on the back of that TV? If not, I can try to find one

u/digger0101 · 1 pointr/vintagetelevision

Thanks! It's just an old Roku connected to an RF modulator and then by coaxial to the set.

u/GeneralissimoFranco · 1 pointr/crt

Set the TV to VHF Channel 3 or 4 and run whatever you want through a demodulator (just like you used to do with your game consoles). You might need a coax to antenna adapter.

u/Basscross64 · 1 pointr/crtgaming

You'd need something like this ( to accomplish your goal since professional monitors don't tend to have channels that you can tune to to use RF. Don't expect much in terms of quality out of any choice that you go with since RF is crap.

u/probablyreasonable · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

There is almost no information here. What are you looking for?

If you need Pi to Coax, then you need an rf modulator.

If you need 3.5mm to RCA, then you need a 3.5mm to RCA

u/koniko95 · 1 pointr/crtgaming

Je pense pas l'autre prise sert a brancher une antenne.
Pour être plus précis j'utilise ce modulateur rf acheté en import américain :

u/MongooseProXC · 1 pointr/ota

Quick and dirty: :)

You can insert a channel with an RF modulator like this onto channel 3 or 4. Attach the antenna feed and RF modulator into a splitter in reverse.

Now, here's the rub. You need to block the transmission from the RF modulator going to the antenna or else you'll broadcast your channel to the neighborhood. A high-low VHF splitter will take care of this beautifully. Connect the antenna to "HI", the splitter to "LINE", and cap off the "LO"

Now, you will loose about 4db signal strength from your antenna and will no longer receive Lo-VHF channels, but most stations don't use it anyway.

EDIT: Even better. Connect the RF modulator to the "LO", the antenna to "HI", and the TV to "LINE." This will simplify the connection and also minimize signal loss to about 1db.

u/wdouglass · 1 pointr/hometheater

You'll need an rf modulator, like this one

If there's no coax connector on the back, you'll also need an antenna adapter like this one

That tv is really cool, good luck!

u/itchplease · 1 pointr/TVRepair

This is what I'm using :


It should work, right ? My question is should I solder the coaxial to the UHF or VHF antenna

u/frezik · 1 pointr/RASPBERRY_PI_PROJECTS

To make sure I understand here, you have a TV with a broken display, but working speakers, and want to use it for audio. Correct?

What kind of connectors does the TV have? Does it have composite audio? If so, the Pi can output that directly. Its audio isn't great by itself, though, so you'd be better off getting a USB sound box with composite output.

If it has HDMI input, then you can connect that directly.

If it's an old tube TV that only has coax input, then you'll need an RF modulator that takes composite in and coax out. I think this will do.

u/NeonNat · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

Ah, gotcha. Took a brief look and thought I found what you were looking for but forgot when I used this back when I was young, it was the other way around (rca to coax). Now I remember the converter is called a "VCR" lol

u/JasonDJ · 1 pointr/cordcutters

If you don't know, its called an RF Modulator to convert Composite (yellow/white/red) to coax. Most VCRs can also do the job.

u/PintoTheBurninator · 1 pointr/gaming

you can also get an analog RF modulator for about 12 bucks on amazon that has r/y/w on one side and a cable connector on the other - so that unused cable jack on the back of your tv can become the input for your old analog game systems - just make sure it is set the the same channel as the adapter (usually channel 3 or 4).
They even bridge the cable input/output so you can use it in between the tv and an analog cable box.

u/toddw65 · 1 pointr/DIY_tech

Not sure about DirecTv, but I have Dish Network and did this. Getting an additional box means another fee tacked on and my bill is high enough as it is. Dish boxes (aka Joeys) output HDMI & composite signals simultaneously so in my case, HMDI goes to the "main" tv and the composite output then goes into an inexpensive RF modulator. From that I ran coax to the secondary TV which is tuned to channel 3. We also bought a second RF remote off of Ebay so we can have one in each room. It's worked great this way for several years.

Edit: Missing words.

u/metroidfan220 · 1 pointr/ps2

Some Gamestops will carry them, since they will work with PS3 too. But you're better off getting an RF adapter box at Walmart and just using the composite cables that came with the system with it.

Edit: Something like this one would work.

u/StorageB107 · 1 pointr/crt

Sorry, I meant to post this link:
Will this connect a composite input to the UHF or VHF terminals on the TV?

u/easyTRASH · 1 pointr/smashbros

My TV/setup is similar: TV -> coax -> RF modulator -> composite -> Wii.

Maybe give this a try. RF modulator + coax cable

u/Umlautica · 1 pointr/audiophile

For the wall, I'd recommend a brush plate or cable plate.

u/bryanr29 · 1 pointr/battlestations

What I did was get a kitchen knife and cut a small square out of the dry wall behind the monitor and desk. I used this to make it look nicer ( after that I just ran the cable through. Took about 15 min to do.

u/fatbottomedgirls · 1 pointr/gaming

There are tons of inexpensive options for running wires in the wall.

I simply tapped off an outlet below my TV to add a recessed outlet directly behind the TV. I then used a couple of these--one behind the TV and one closer to the floor--to run the low voltage cables.

Here are a couple other relatively inexpensive solutions that don't even require you to know how to do any electrical work:

u/captain_bowlton · 1 pointr/DIY

If you already need to call an electrician to run an outlet, just ask them to make another hole for your A/V cables. If you are lucky they might do it for free. Will the cables just need to go from behind the unit down to the shelf that will hold the Apple TV?

I would ask the electrician to cut some extra holes for you, and you could tidy them up with something like this:

You would mount them to something like this:

I just got done mounting and installing a bunch of TVs and A/V cables for some of our branch offices, and that is pretty much what we did. The passthrough will easily allow the large tips of the cables through.

Of course you could also use a drywall saw and a cable fisher and do it yourself. If in doubt, call an electrician. Good luck!

u/Kanaloa · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

> Are wires supposed to run up to the TV from the thing lower down?

>Should I put in a piece of plastic pipe to make an easy conduit up to the tv now, while I can still get behind there easily?

No need for that.

>What is that wire up top?

As others have said, it looks like speaker wire. Probably don't need it.

I would get one of these for the top orange box., and replace the "speaker" cable with a 10' or 12' cat 5e cable. Plug the cable into the port at the bottom, run it through the wall, and plug it into the TV.

Are you getting all your source material from the network? Do you plan on having cable? Antenna? Xbox? Anything else on this TV? While you're at it, you might want to run some HDMI cables and a COAX cable along with your network cable.

u/sonsofaureus · 1 pointr/battlestations

If the property is yours and if you're ok using a saw, you can snake the wires behind the wall and get two of these for the entry and exits.

u/mikeamburn · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Ack on the no running high voltage cables inside the wall that aren't properly terminated. Regarding low-voltage, I did consider using something like a 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate, potentially mounted behind the Dot.

u/OlafShvenski · 1 pointr/MagicMirror

Could run behind the wall since it is low voltage, but it would be ugly at plug height. Something like this is what I’ve done beside the outlets for wall mounted TVs.

u/ninjafu76 · 1 pointr/Vive

I used a pass through wall plate (I think it's called?). They come in different colours, but here is an example on

Hope that helps Mantis4g63 :)

u/simplyclueless · 1 pointr/GoogleWiFi

One common option is something like this:

Power, ethernet, video, and any other low voltage wires are passed behind the TV into the wall, and then can come out at floor level behind furniture or similar.

u/basement-thug · 1 pointr/4kTV

I'd find a way to conceal the wire and go wired anyways. Wireless is good for phones and that's about it. They make kits to create an in wall conduit to run cables along with power.

[See here](Datacomm 50-3323-WH-KIT Flat Panel TV Cable Organizer Kit with Power Solution - White

u/alibenson · 1 pointr/homeowners

I'd second this, but maybe use that hole to your advantage by using it to hide low voltage cabling in the wall. get two birds stoned at once. I used this: hidey hole

u/el_lobo_crazy · 1 pointr/mancave

It looks much cleaner if you use thiskit to run the cables.

u/MrFrankyFeathers · 1 pointr/malelivingspace

They have these kits on Amazon that work really well if you already have a dry wall saw and wire snake. First one took an hour but my upstairs TV only took 30 minutes.

u/bronxcheer · 1 pointr/homerenovations

Something like this?

There are a lot of variations of this thing out there.

I don't have experience installing - we almost went this route, then decided a large enough media console would look better and be more practical than an on- or in-wall solution. But, it's very well rated.

u/rugyg · 1 pointr/CarAV

If you do not want an aftermarket radio the cheapest solution would be a FM Modualtor

u/Circle_in_a_Spiral · 1 pointr/XTerra

I have a 2011 Xterra S 4x4 and the standard radio doesn't have an aux input. The optional radio with the 6 CD changer and satellite radio mode has an aux button on the radio and the aux input jack above the cigar lighter on the dash. Your input may be an aftermarket add like this FM modulator device

u/pvera · 1 pointr/cars

You can get an antenna bypass FM modulator, it plugs between your FM antenna and the antenna input. This is better than the FM transmitter method, especially if you live in an area with a saturated FM band.

Good example:

u/notreallynewaround · 1 pointr/Nissan

It doesn't have one. You have 2 options. You can install a new head unit that has aux input and all that other jazz like bluetooth. Or you can install one of these which will add aux through the satellite radio input.

If you are handy with splicing wires I would just do the install yourself. If you have no idea how to splice wires or take a dash apart just look for a shop in your area that does car audio. If you end up finding a friend that knows how to do it, make sure they aren't just connecting wires with electrical tape and putting the radio back in your dash, that is bad news.

edit: Oh yeah and if you just want to cheap out you can get one of those FM transmitters. You just plug it in the cig lighters plug and it has a little transmitter on the wire with aux on the other end. You set the station on the transmitter and your radio to the station you choose (one with no signal/noise). The audio quality is not too great but its a cheap route and no install.

u/ajnrocks · 1 pointr/prius

If your prius already has an aux input, then you just need a bluetooth receiver (bluetooth to 3.5mm) and a ground loop isolater if you are getting some feedback (as mentioned in a different comment).

If your prius doesn't have a built in aux port, you can install one via an "FM modulator", and from that you could use a bluetooth receiver and come in under $50. I think they also make some FM modulators with built in bluetooth nowadays. Basically this will work directly with your built in radio and allow you to use your normal steering wheel controls and everything for minimal cost.

If you feel like splurging, you can install a new stereo with apple carplay and android auto which is awesome (I have it in my 2005) but it is much more expensive and also more difficult to install properly.

u/MrShnickles · 1 pointr/Cartalk

I installed an FM antenna bypass module to my car's factory radio. You may need to buy additional adapters to make it fit your stereo's antenna. I was in a similar situation as you where my climate control system was a part of the stereo and this seemed to be the most cost effective option.

u/nobodysawme · 1 pointr/raleigh

  • 101.87 for the single-din kenwood, bluetooth and aux-in
  • 190.87 for the cheapest CarPlay
  • 273 for Pioneer 1300NEX level CarPlay

    The other way to solve this is with a hard-wired FM transmitter, that plugs the FM signal between your antenna and the radio. - $26.95 and the same 30 minutes in the driveway installing, and you'd have aux-in back. They do make a bluetooth version of this, but some people say the bluetooth one doesn't sound very good, and adds pairing issues.

    I've installed CarPlay about 10 times (I keep putting different ones in my car, I've had Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer primarily. A Pioneer with wireless CarPlay is going in next.) There's no magic to it, and it does make the experience a lot better, for me.
u/Why_Is_This_NSFW · 1 pointr/cars

I wired up an FM Modulator so I could get an AUX jack in my old 9-3. Since the head unit is so tightly tied to the car (and the SID and it's all fiber) it's hard to modify it. That was the best solution I could find to make it sorta useable.

My FM modulator was a bit different as it was just a standard small toggle switch, so I used one of the blank covers and drilled and dremeled it and mounted the toggle switch in there.

u/banderson221 · 1 pointr/askcarguys

I recommend this:
It requires you splice into your radio’s power supply and drill a hole in your dash. The end result is really clean and it was exactly what I needed after being frustrated with fm transmitters.

u/Trumpsafascist · 1 pointr/cars

Yes, like this. They also have a Bluetooth one. iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios

u/jhonreal · 1 pointr/mercedes_benz

One more thing. I have an older version of this modulator.

You can see that the back of it has a gain adjuster. And the toggle switch is 87.9 and 88.3 fm. It works really well. I use the older ipod 30 pin connector instead of the aux because the previous owner had installed this for me. I then use a 30 pin to aux then an aux switcher to switch between the aux and bluetooth. I can give you a guide to do that later if you like

u/Hemi69 · 1 pointr/CarAV

I've seen these online before but not sure on quality of signal but it piggy backs on your antenna input like a hard wired fm transmitter

u/RedTib · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

Install an FM modulator

The difference is that the direct input bypasses your antenna and plays your music on a certain frequency. In an FM transmitter, the transmitters uses the antenna.

In my experience, the sound quality is very excellent.

u/cvr24 · 1 pointr/CarAV

This isn't very expensive and will give better sound.

u/ichibanstunna · 1 pointr/Columbus

Saw this on Amazon. I'm no stereo expert but I'd be willing to give you a hand installing it.

u/randomdude21 · 1 pointr/usenet

This is definitely your best bet if you're intent on keeping that deck.

u/SgtBrowncoat · 1 pointr/XTerra

I installed a unit that plugs into the antenna input and overrides the default frequency. It isn't a typical FM modulator because it doesn't transmit to be picked up by the antenna. A switch on the dash turn it on and off so you can still use the FM radio.

I will try to find the make and model when I have a chance.

EDIT: I don't know the exact model I have (at least not without taking my dash apart), but it is similar to this product. Search for "Antenna override aux input" and you will find quite a few.

u/fredrogers1234 · 1 pointr/Music

Something like this might be right up your alley.

Inline FM Modulator

u/Some_Lurker_Guy · 1 pointr/Honda

I put this head unit in my accord recently and it's worked excellently. You can also get an antenna intercept like this and route it out the bottom of your dash and save some money. But I'd recommend getting another head unit if you're pulling the dash apart anyway.

u/bigbuddhadaddy · 1 pointr/CarAV

Someone told me about this when I asked the same question about my suburban. Haven’t ordered it yet to try but I like the idea


It’s an fm transmitter that wires behind your unit into the antenna. I would assume the reception would be superior with this setup as opposed to a cigarette lighter one

u/42wycked · 1 pointr/cars

These work great. Goes between antenna and radio for the best quality possible.

u/Vulgrr_Display · 1 pointr/CarAV

iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios

Here go!

u/kvlle · 1 pointr/GrandCherokee

Can't offer any help on what you bought, but can recommend the approach I took to this....

FM Modulator

Pair that with a Bluetooth receiver and you can even have Bluetooth music at the flip of a switch. Have been using it for years, works excellent


You'll probably also need this too... look into it... relatively easy install

u/colonelpan1c · 1 pointr/MotoX

You could use an in-line FM modulator which would give you an aux in jack, then use the Bluetooth receiver. All pretty easy to hide behind your dash too. Adds to the cost a little, but the end result could be really nice. You may need an adapter for your antenna wire depending on make and model.

u/DeadZeplin · 1 pointr/AdviceAnimals

That's why I love modulators:

They get a power and ground, then you unplug the antenna, plug this in, and the antenna into this. Then you tune to a preset, channel, and plug into your new aux jack

u/DW1G1T · 1 pointr/CarAV

Try this if you want to keep the factory head unit. $25 and a bit easier to install.

u/Coxis67 · 1 pointr/CarAV

It's better than a transmitter because it connects directly to the antenna port on the stereo. Might want to remove the deck prior to purchase to see if it has an antenna port.

u/roflcopterswtams · 1 pointr/Trucks

Try this

You connect your antenna to it and then it to the back of your head unit. This will not make your AUX button functional as it works off of a preset FM frequency. The On/Off switch is used to bypass the antenna and make your music clear af as if you used the AUX button. Don't know if this can be wired to the AUX input in your tray but you can always switch that input out for the new one.

Your other option is slightly more expensive and a bit more difficult but will get your AUX button working.

u/imadethis2014 · 1 pointr/techsupport

You cannot create an HDMI input on your computer without allot of expense and extra processing power - there is also the issue of HDMI protection (HDCP) which will cause some shows/movies not to play at all.

I would suggest an HDMI switch like this: you can select between your computer and your TV tuner box as you wish.

u/dodland · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I've personally used this one for my PS4, a laptop, and a bluray player.

But if you have money to blow you should definitely just get a $250 receiver.

u/leppermessiah1 · 1 pointr/Vive

Here's what I use to switch between my Apple TV and laptop on my projector:

It has a remote.

Edit: Here's the 4k version:

u/DavidDocRogers · 1 pointr/xboxone

Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p by Kinivo

u/casino_r0yale · 1 pointr/hometheater

A Denon from last year’s models like the S720W could be had for around that much based on a quick Google search (I converted £200 to ~$270). Since you said “possibly 7.1,” I’m a bit confused. Do you own speakers yet or not? If you don’t, then something like this could tide you over until you buy speakers, and the remainder of your budget can go to a receiver.

u/Yokuo · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Buy yourself Smash for 3DS!! It comes out on Friday (the day the contest ends! IT'S A SIGN!!) and it is going to be fantastic (Source: I've played the demo lots). Smash is addicting fun, and it lets you battle online, so you could even battle against your fellow RAOAers that get it! It's going to keep you entertained for a while, so what's to lost? Treat yourself and get it!

As for me, I would LOVE to receive this HDMI 3-port switch device. I just found out these things exist, and this would make my life insanely easier. I don't have enough HDMI ports on my TV, so I always have to flip it around, unplug, and replug to get things to work. This eliminates that! So, you're buying something that will get constant use and make my life a bit easier! :)

Thanks for the contest! This is awesome of you :) Batman Suit.

u/zibalingz · 1 pointr/Chromecast

Do you think this HDMI spliter would work?

A friend of mine has it, I was gonna borrow it but he's already got it setup.

u/MattCz9 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I use this switch for my Switch and SNES Classic and have had no problems at all the few months I've had it.

u/ogSPLICE · 1 pointr/xboxone

You can use an HDMI Switcher and plug 3 devices into that, and then attach that to the HDMI Passthrough. You just use the remote that normally comes with whichever switcher you get to switch the devices on the unit itself.

u/The_Razza7 · 1 pointr/PixelBook

Absolutely, here it is.

u/MojoPhett · 1 pointr/AskBattlestations

[The one I owned before getting a new TV with enough inputs](Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 Port High Speed HDMI Switch With IR Wireless Remote And AC Power Adapter - Supports 3D, 1080p

u/jacksclevername · 1 pointr/Chromecast

I picked up this one a little while ago. Works great.

u/Ji-L87 · 1 pointr/hometheater

Here's a good, cheap switch that I like:

I use it to switch between all modern game consoles that currently live in my PC setup. Has been working great, had it for about a year or so. I've had other cheap china switches and my PS3 simply wouldn't play nice with those.
Edit: Didn't see you needed two outputs. I've got my hooked up to a cheap powered HDMI splitter, so there's one solution.

u/PuckyTheWhale · 1 pointr/xboxone

I have no issues with my switch (I split a WiiU and the XBONE), but before I bought it I read a few reviews... and found that this one was specifically mentioned as being one of the few that worked completely fine with both PS4 and XBONE. Have had no issues at all with it.

Kinivo Switch:

u/kristophermichael · 1 pointr/xboxone

I've got this one from Kinivo and have had it for well over a year.. Works flawlessly and changes inputs automatically depending on what device you power on.

u/Mustangito · 1 pointr/PS4

I have been using this switch for over a year with no problems although you'd have to find a different solution for your speakers:

u/highlife159 · 1 pointr/CruciblePlaybook

You don't want a splitter unless you want to have Destiny on both screens as the same time. If you want to choose which screen will display the image you need a switch/matrix that does 2in/1out or something like that. I've got a Rocketfish HDMI switch from Best Buy that I use and I haven't expereinced any lag that I'm aware of. But I'm using a pc monitor. Something like this should work for you.

u/wolf39us · 1 pointr/hometheater
  • Receiver --> TV Input
  • TV Optical --> Receiver Input
  • PS4 --> Receiver In
  • PS3 --> Receiver In
  • Chromecast --> TV
  • TV Box --> TV

    That's one possible setup. It depends on how often you use each of these. Your other option is to get an HDMI switcher

    Given the price of a switcher, I'd say get one and do everything via HDMI
u/Arikon_Almighty · 1 pointr/computers

Agreed, but this one is rated higher with more reviews Link

u/Beeper89 · 1 pointr/PS4

This is what I have
I plug in my ps3 ps4 and wiiu into that. I can still capture on the wiiu, Have not tested on the ps4 but it should work the same.

u/RoflCopter726 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I use this one.. It works great, and it switches automatically depending on what device you turn on.

u/twalker294 · 1 pointr/xboxone

First of all your link is to rental property in Coral Gables so you might wanna check on that ;-)

I'm using this HDMI switch:

I have my Apple TV and my DirecTV box going into it then the output going to the XB1 and it works flawlessly. Zero problems, 100% satisfied.

u/No1syB0y · 1 pointr/PS4

I dont have my PS4 connected yet. I want to use my PC Monitor as Display instead, but the monitor only has 1 HDMI Input port, which my PC is using. So i want to buy a HDMI Splitter , maybe this one.

So that I can have both my PC and my PS4 plugged to the same Monitor.

Will that work?

u/Frazzums · 1 pointr/PS4

This is correct. You need a splitter that has power. I read multiple reviews and have discovered this.

i use this

u/malliabu · 1 pointr/xboxone

I used this one for my Wii U and PS4 and it worked fine.

u/turtle_mummy · 1 pointr/PS3

Here's a 3-port option:

>Kinivo 301BN Premium 3 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p


I have the 5-port version and it works perfectly. It auto-detects what is powered on most recently and switches to that input. If there is a problem, you can press a button on the switch or on the remote.

u/that_griff · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have this one: link.

Works great with my harmony hub, after using it for a while and being impressed with it I even bought the 3 port version (also on amazon) for a different room.

u/ILoveBlondeChicks · 1 pointr/buildapc

From experience, cheaping out on any sort of video switch or splitter will introduce delay, buggy images and some even don't work at all. Most of the good ones will require power to function properly, so make sure you have an outlet nearby. This one appears to be pretty popular and it has lots of fancy features. There are cheaper ones, but make sure you buy one with lots of reviews.

u/joselrl · 1 pointr/techsupport

A adapter, no, the TV will only recognize one input, it wouldn't know what to do with multiple sources in 1 input.

There are switches tho that actually act as a selector from multiple sources. Like this one.

u/GreninjaStar · 1 pointr/PS4

That sounds like a convoluted set up.

I just have all of my systems plugged into one of these:

That is plugged into my TV, and the TV is plugged into the sound bar via optical audio.

I would say try taking your sound bar out of the equation for video as your first step for troubleshooting this issue.

u/Teajaytea7 · 1 pointr/buildapc

so you want them all plugged into both monitors? or will the tv hold some and the monitor hold the others?

either way, an hdmi switch like this would hlep

u/ArdvarkMaster · 1 pointr/wiiu
  • Your TV works fine with other devices (PS3,laptop, etc)
  • Your WiiU works fine on other TVs
  • Your WiiU does not work correctly on ANY port of this one particular TV

    Do you have a HDMI switch you could put between the WiiU and the TV (similar to this: LINK)? It may straighten out the communication between the WiiU and the TV. Otherwise, since no other device connected to this TV shows those symptoms, it looks like this particular TV just won't connect correctly to the WiiU. As I said before, I have seen where some TVs just won't connect to some devices.
u/adent1066 · 1 pointr/firetvstick

I have used that one in the past. Although it's more expensive, I prefer this 5 port one (it comes with a remote too) There's also a cheaper 3 port one as well

u/darksideofthecity · 1 pointr/sysadmin

Depending on the tv you might have hdmi output on that. You can connect it to the other tv. The only oher options is:

Inputs -> HDMI Switch -> to hdmi splitter -> two tv's.

This way you can switch inputs and still split the two screens. The easiest solutions would be to adjust his prescription or get him glasses.

u/Dante-Alighieri · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's no one device I can think of that would do that. What you could do is get a multi-port HDMI switch like this and use a splitter for the output. It would be outputting to both the TV and projector at the same time, but you could just have the device not currently in use turned off.

u/darkharibo · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch
u/seamonkeystew · 1 pointr/hometheater

Edit: Sorry, just re-read that you need an audio out.

I use his one. Kinivo 501BN Premium 5 port High speed HDMI switch with IR wireless remote and AC Power adapter - supports 3D, 1080p

u/ActionKbob · 1 pointr/gaming

I use this for my AV solution. For HDMI OP uses two of these, I also have one of those and it works great.

Edit: The AV switch looks weird in the Amazon picture, but the actual unit is buttons on front, ports in back. The picture is of two of them stacked on top of each other.

u/egorre · 1 pointr/Chromecast

The Chromecast is not connected to the TV directly. It's on a Kinivo switch. Chromecast disappears on my available devices once the TV is off. This is the Kinivo Switch I have

u/SuckMyPlums · 1 pointr/PS4
u/MappingChick · 1 pointr/Roku

I have this HDMI switch with remote - my tv only has 2 HDMI plugs.

u/My_Police_Box · 1 pointr/techsupport

What you really want is this right here.

u/infinitelives · 1 pointr/consoles

I know it can be tempting, but you should never buy a console solely because of the hardware. Hardware is no good if it doesn't play the games you want to play. Crash Bandicoot: N-Sane Trilogy and the upcoming Final Fantasy 7 remake are both PS4 exclusives. And though nothing has been officially stated, many people assume a Spyro remaster is coming next, especially in the wake of Crash Bandicoot's critical reception and sales numbers.

The idea that PS5 will feature backwards compatibility is likewise only a rumor, however, it's backed by logical evidence. But it's worth keeping in mind that Sony has a business interest in NOT offering backwards compatibility, so that they can more easily sell Playstation Now subscriptions, classic digital titles (ala Nintendo's virtual console), and remastered classics. (In other words, just because they can, doesn't mean they will.) And if Sony does ultimately offer b/c with PS5 and copies Microsoft's approach to the tiniest detail, then the PS5 won't have b/c at launch but will have it patched in later, and even then only for the most popular titles. I still have my Xbox 360 hooked up because my Xbox One isn't a 100% replacement for it, and it probably never will be. So buying any console with backwards compatibility in mind is something of a crapshoot.

It might be worth mentioning that you do have options besides Playstation and Xbox. Nintendo Switch has been very popular since it launched in March, and remains perpetually sold out. To get one at this point in time, you'd either have to buy one from an eBay scalper or watch stock trackers carefully and be in the right place at the right moment. But it doesn't take advantage of 4K, and in what could be either a pro or a con depending on your mindset, offers less crossover with the catalog of games you already have access to on PC. However, Nintendo does have a stellar reputation for offering approachable games and single-system multiplayer, and is often thought of as a good choice for girlfriend gaming. Your other option is to run an extra video cable from your PC to your TV if your hardware supports it, and buy some wireless controllers. (I recommend wireless Xbox One controllers, or wireless Xbox 360 controllers if you're running Windows 7.) Then you can just play PC games on your couch, although it won't be quite as simple to start and switch between games, which might not sit well with your g/f.

Connecting multiple consoles to your TV is not particularly menacing, unless you just don't have the physical space for it. If you have a 4K set you probably have enough spare HDMI ports, and if not you can get an HDMI switch to expand the number of available ports, along with a power strip or two if need be. I have 6 consoles hooked up to my 4K flatscreen — PS4, PS3, Xbox One, Xbox 360, Nintendo Switch and Nintendo Wii U. That's why I don't worry about backwards compatibility.

u/jackbobevolved · 1 pointr/PS4

You have no idea what you’re talking. Switches and hubs are old, commonplace technology. I’ve been using this one for years without issue. Everything dx20 said is made up.

u/Aachendreggrowlers · 1 pointr/PS4

I use the Kinivo 501BN due to many HDMI devices and not enough HDMI ports. A rock solid product showing flawless execution with my PS4, Switch and many other electronics. No lag or loss in video and audio. There is a cheaper 3-port if that fits your need and budget.

u/bomber991 · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I'm having the same issue with my main TV in the living room. Only has 2 HDMI ports but I regularly use the Xbox One, PS4, and Nintendo Switch on it, so I've been manually unplugging the HDMI from the PS4 and plugging into the Switch.

Also on that TV is my PS3 and Wii U, but the hassle of changing cables means I just don't use them.

These 2 HDMI switches were recommended to me:

u/Luminaria19 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Sounds like you're looking for an HDMI switch. They exist, but you'll still need to use the switch to decide which input should be passed through to the TV as needed.

A rather fancy switch

Less fancy switch

u/Bobsagetluvr · 1 pointr/techsupport

You could use something like this, just a simple HDMI switch.

u/shawnjawn · 1 pointr/buildapc

Don't know if this is the right place to post.

  • Looking to replace my wireless router Netgear WGR614v10 with something that has good range, is reliable and doesn't disconnect, and can handle 2 smart phones, a PS4, a Smart TV, a Chromebook, iPad, and 2 PCs. Really, I think anything will be an upgrade from this router that we have had for 10 years or so. I HAVE to use a powerline adapter in my room because I don't have any ethernet ports, but I experience drops frequently. Budget is no more than $100. How is the Nighthawk AC1750 or AC1900?

  • If I want to connect my future GPU (probably a GTX 1070) to 3 monitors, how would I go about doing that? I see that some have 2 HDMI ports and 2 display ports but I don't know the first thing about display port. Should I look into a card with 3 HDMI ports?

  • I want to connect my PS4 to one of the monitors, but the monitors only have one HDMI port (and a VGA and DVI port). Do I just need to buy a switch? I'm not against buying at least one new monitor that has multiple HDMi ports. If that's the case, can you recommend me a better 1080p 24 inch monitor?
u/Dark_Knight_Reddits · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

I use a switch box, one for composite/s-video systems, and one for HDMI systems. But I have a question now looking at this. I assume you can leave all the consoles hooked up? You don't need to unplug one console to use another? If so, what would happen if you turn two or more consoles on at the same time? I assume nothing.

Really didn't know these existed or even thought of something like this when I bought the switch box. If you do have to change over when using different consoles I'd probably still stay with the switch box. Constantly unplugging and plugging probably isn't good for the inputs on the consoles after many years of use.

Edit: I just noticed the composite switch box I use is no longer made, and the $120 price tag is incredibly more expensive now. I bought it for under $40 CDN in early 2014. This is the one I'd probably buy now and looks pretty similar. I actually like this one better, as it has 8 outputs instead of 6. Doesn't have S-Video which kinda sucks though. All 8 + Input is on the back, where mine the 6th output is on the front. Making cable management look less clean on the one I have.

u/Skemekos1234 · 1 pointr/PSVR

The one I have is called KINIVO 501BN. Ive had it for about 5 years or more now. Here is a link to the same model I have, although mine has silver around the edge instead of white for some reason.

u/Ahnteis · 1 pointr/htpc

An HDMI switch will only let you select 1 HDMI from (however many switch supports). The receiver would also be your sound system amplifier.

So something like this:

(Not one I own, just the first 5 port one I saw.)

For least headache, make sure it supports HDCP.

u/ajmgiw · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

The one I use has 5 inputs to 1 output. Link.

I'm actually looking to get a second one if I ever by another dock so I can have one hooked up to my living room tv. I've owned it for 2-3 years now though and its been great. If you change input it can detect the power and automatically switch over to the input that just got powered on so you don't need to use the remote unless you want to.

u/LongjumpingParamedic · 1 pointr/RetroPie

I have it working with this just fine:

No problems to report. Also I have not done any sort of tweaking or anything to the Retropie regarding HDMI settings. Just worked for me.

u/sun-up-sun-down · 1 pointr/PS4

This works for my PS4, laptop, roku, and chromecast. I don't have a PS3 but I imagine it would work.

u/Idiotfiasco · 1 pointr/wiiu

This is the on I use, although it has a remote I've never had to use it as the switch recognizes which port is being used and changes accordingly. I'm sure there are other higher priced units out there, bit this one had good reviews and I have no complaints. Since I don't yet have a 4k tv or a 4k console I have no need for a 4k capable switch.

u/0829lee · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I have this HDMI switch
It has 5 inputs and auto switches when it detects a new input

u/Newman4185 · 1 pointr/miniSNES

If that's a real concern, I can't recommended this enough:

u/rezzyk · 1 pointr/minines

So I had my NES Classic working fine through an old HDMI Switch (, but I am in the process of upgrading to 4K and got a new 4K switch (and receiver) (

Everything works in the new 4K Switch - except the NES Classic. I get audio but no video. Hell, even my RetroPie works (Yeah I have a RetroPie and an NES Classic). It's so weird. Ah well,I can just hook it directly to my TV I guess. Still weird.

u/ZoopZeZoop · 1 pointr/playstation

I bought this one for my dad. He seems to like it. There are models by this manufacturer with fewer HDMI ports for less money, but some of the reviews for those models concerned me. My dad has been using it since Christmas of 2014.

u/Stevied1991 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I know it's been a few days since you posted this, but I have a question maybe you can answer. What is a good HDMI switcher? I had one from Amazon a while back that crapped out on me pretty fast, and I've been hesitant to get a new one.

Edit: This is the one I had.

u/brycedriesenga · 1 pointr/PSVR

You might be interested in an HDMI switch.

u/Flying_Spaghetti_ · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

You want this or use it as an excuse to get a decent sound system. A receiver will have many inputs and will let you switch source.

u/GrindheadJim · 1 pointr/Vive

Suggestion: If you want to bypass the need for a switcher, you could use a mini-DP cable for the Vive, and continue using an HDMI cable for the Rift - that'll lessen the possibility for annoying HDCP checks, anyway.

If that's not good, I have to switcher suggestions, which I use in my console capture setup:

Solid, with an audio stripper: LINK

Just as reliable, better price point: LINK

Both support and include IR remotes.

u/anon__34 · 1 pointr/techsupport

Ah, thank you for clarifying that for me. That’s just what I need. I think I’ll get this one Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5x1 5-Port HDMI Switch/Switcher with IR Remote and 1.5 Meter USB Power Cable (Supports 3D)

u/crushedbyadwarf · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I use Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch Splitter with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D, 5 In 1 Out Switcher - Black

u/HopeyWolf · 1 pointr/PS4

This one right here along with a powered switcher is what I use , the splitter removes the hdcp signal is why I use it with my PS4

u/EpisodeOneWasGreat · 1 pointr/audiophile

To get audio off the Surface:

a) The Surface itself and the dock have 3.5 mm analog stereo audio outputs. That can connect via a 3.5 mm to RCA cable to an AVR:

b) The DisplayPort outputs contain digital audio signals that can be pulled off a display that passes digital audio through to an S/PDIF output, or analog RCA outputs. There are also HDMI audio DACs if your displays do not have audio passthrough.

c) USB audio DAC.

To get video and audio from your AVR to your displays, connect the second HDMI or DisplayPort or DVI input on the display to the HDMI using the correct combination of cables and socket adapters. If your displays only have one digital input, you'll need some kind of source selector:

u/jtonzi · 1 pointr/firetvstick

You can't connect them both at the same time.

You could get the cable I mentioned above and this cable and then you'd be able to swap the two at the HDMI input.

Edit: If you don't want to swap cables around, you can put something like this in there to switch HDMI inputs

u/CigaretteBurn12 · 1 pointr/Games

I use this one from Amazon. Been about two years and no issues. Only 3 inputs but that was good enough for me. Not remote controlled but I'm a cheap ass and only tend to switch inputs before using a device so I'm already up to select an input.

This could be something you're looking for!

u/felipusrex · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Right now the wii u is plugged to input 3, I think. Never had a problem with it. My old switcher had snow problems after a power surge. Now everything is in a couple UPS Battery backups.

I'm using this switcher.

u/iAmAddicted2R_ddit · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace


For your controller needs, if you want to use a DualShock4, DS3, Wii U Pro Controller or WiiMote, all you need is a mini Bluetooth dongle and a driver such as DS4Windows (google "[controller] driver windows"). With the proper driver they should be supported under most games, but they might require a button mapping tool to work with some stuff (we can help you with that).

If you want to go the easy route and have a controller supported by most games with no driver configuration as soon as you plug it in, an Xbone controller is your choice. However, it will require a special M$ dongle to work wirelessly, and be warned that this dongle only works under Windows 10. Alternately, if you can live with some inferior design features, you can get a 360 controller (which still works with nearly all controller games) and its corresponding dongle, which has the added benefit of working with all Windows's back to XP. However, be aware that both of these controllers require AA batteries rather than the rechargeable packs found in DualShock/Nintendo. You can buy a rechargeable pack for Xbox controllers but it obviously costs extra.

All of the aforementioned controllers will also work over USB with any operating system.

Now to the second part of your question. I assume that you mean you want to play on your TV–this can be accomplished one of two ways and is easy to setup. The first and most obvious way is to simply keep your PC in your entertainment center and hook it to your TV over HDMI, in much the same way that you would your PS4. Steam's Big Picture mode tries to emulate the homescreen of a console to make controller navigation easier, and does a pretty good job of it. Coming from the PS4 interface I'm sure you'll feel right at home–but you do still need a KB+mouse to get in Big Picture from a cold PC startup. This shouldn't be an issue as there are many cheap wireless keyboards with inbuilt trackpads on offer.

The second way is to use a Steam Link. This is a very handy little set-top box that will stream video input over the internet from a PC in the house–if you've ever heard of the PlayStation TV, this is similar. In order to use the Link you must have fast (at least 10mbps; check using Ethernet on both ends (your PC and the Link) and a controller that connects over USB (either thru a USB cable or a USB wireless receiver. The Xbox receivers mentioned in a previous paragraph currently don't work with the Link but Valve says they are looking into it). It's very simple to setup–hook the Link to internet, plug in your controller and HDMI cable for TV connection, and pair it with your PC. Then you'll have total access to all your controller-supported PC games from the couch, with no loss of graphics.

Also, as a PC gamer, I have a word for you–there are some games that do play better with KB+M, especially shooters. Trust me, once you try something like Call of Duty with a mouse, you will never be able to go back to aiming with controller sticks. If you want this benefit but still find KB+M uncomfortable, there is the Steam Controller which features a more accurate trackpad in place of the right stick, and will work with most of the games that an Xbox controller works with.

One final word. If you are actually, legitimately serious about getting into PC gaming–please for the LOVE OF GOD do not buy a pre-built one. BUILD. YOUR. OWN. Seriously, if you are looking to surpass consoles and get value for money, I CANNOT stress this enough. Although it may seem daunting at first it's really little more than high-tech LEGOs–/r/BuildaPCforMe will furnish you with a parts list so you don't have to bother with that, and then the build will take two hours tops (even if you're inexperienced). There are tons of great videos on YouTube that will show you how–this is my personal fave, although I do advise you not to use any of those parts since that vid is considerably old.

If you have any questions feel free to reply to this and I can help you out.

u/damikkster · 1 pointr/GameDealsMeta

It is on sale at now for $26. A little more expansive but still good deal and you don't have to go to a store.

u/raisinbrandt · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

> Also, link broadcasts anything on the screen, so it works flawlessly with non-steam games.

Yes, all sorts of controllers. On sale for $19.99 right now:

u/BraveSpear · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

Awesome find. I used this and applied it towards the Steam Link sale that was posted earlier.

u/LRCM · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

I would assume until cyber monday--if you buy it from amazon, you can always return it.

u/PraiseDannyWoodhead · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I also got confirmation that the only two items I wanted were both disqualified for eligibility, which is bullshit. The promotional terms state video games are ineligible, but it's actually ANY ITEM LISTED IN A VIDEO GAME CATEGORY.

Initial Question: Inquiring about the 'BIGTHANKS' promotional code item eligibility.
>03:13 PM PST Pratik(Amazon): Hello, my name is Pratik. I'm here to help you today. Thank you for being a Prime member. NIce to meet you!


>03:13 PM PST Me: Hello
>03:14 PM PST Me: I noticed that today, there is a promotional code BIGTHANKS that should remove $8.62 from a $50+ order, however it does not seem to work on the items I am attempting to buy?

>03:14 PM PST Pratik: For the promotions all the items should be sold by Amazon. Here are the terms and conditions of the promotion :


>03:14 PM PST Me: Both of these items are sold by LLC

>03:15 PM PST Pratik: May I know if they are video games?

>03:15 PM PST Me: They are not video games - one is a controller and the other a Steam Link

>03:16 PM PST Me:


>03:16 PM PST Pratik: Thank you for the link. I am sorry to say that Offer does not apply to digital content, video games, or Amazon Gift Cards.

>Please read our terms and conditions and you will be able to see it.


>03:16 PM PST Me: But these items do not qualify under those categories

>03:17 PM PST Pratik: The steam link comes underthe digital content. Please read the terms and conditions :

>03:18 PM PST Me: I have read the terms and conditions, however the steam link is NOT a digital item and neither of these two physical items are VIDEO GAMES. As such, why are they not eligible for the promo code to be applied?

>03:20 PM PST Pratik: Please check the items one more time. The items comes under the video games category.

>03:21 PM PST Me: They may be in the video game category, however they are not themselves video games. The terms and conditions specifically says "video games" no?


>03:21 PM PST Pratik: Please try to understand that if the items comes under the Video games category then the promotion will not be applied.

u/rishicourtflower · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I stand corrected on the $25 price tag - I just saw a deal for the Steam Link for $15 on Amazon.

u/lvt08 · 1 pointr/GameDeals

Do you know if there is a difference between your link and this link when the seller is Amazon and the condition is stated as "New"?

Edit: Just checked and it turns out both links are exactly the same. So it doesn't matter which link you click to buy it from. They are both sold by Amazon, Prime eligible shipping, and will be in new condition.

u/CallMeCygnus · 1 pointr/GameDeals

Yeah, sorry for not including it in my original comment. I was on mobile at the time and had it on my PC. It's showing a delivery date of July 26 for me.

u/northirid · 1 pointr/Steam_Link

They most certainly do, albeit not on every product/listing.

This was the listing I used, and I've just rechecked, it says valid to ship to Australia.

I'd suggest setting up an alert on camelcamelcamel on that link to get notified on the next special.

u/SeanV2oh · 1 pointr/DiscountedProducts

Steam Link is $15 right now too. Great time to pick up both.

u/Helcyin · 1 pointr/PSVR

I think most people probably just directly connect their TV into their ps4 when they want HDR. Otherwise you can try something like this [HDMI Selector Switch] (Https:// Although you'd still need to walk to the ps4 to hit the button.

Make sure to buy one that supports HDR pass through.

(Since you'd need to keep this next to your ps4 I don't really see the added benefit compared to swapping your HDMI cable each time but maybe it'll work for you!)

u/Gangxxter · 1 pointr/htpc

Cheers, thanks for all the infos! So it's very unlikely that the cheap HDMI switch killed everything? Something cheap like this:

u/BloodySunday75 · 1 pointr/PS4Pro

This is my current one

(Using my cell phone so I don't know how to hyperlink it)

I don't have the link to the last one. It was a Rocketfish from Best Buy. Thanks for the recommendation!

u/sesci · 1 pointr/PS4

I'm looking to purchase the Vizio M50 for Black Friday, and it only has 1 HDR capable HDMI port (I have a Pro, PSVR, and XB1S), so I've had the same exact question as you.

This switch seems to be a good option. It almost has a 5 star rating based on over 800 reviews which is crazy. Downside is that it's not remote operated and you physically have to press a button on the unit to switch between inputs. Upside is it's only $12. The first review by Larry seems to indicate that it'll work with 4k/HDR.

u/inuria · 1 pointr/Monitors

Accidentally left a referral link so automoderator deleted my comment, here's a fixed variant:

You can get any old 27" 1080p and then hook up an HDMI switch. Something like this.

Edit: Removed Google's auto-appended referral link

u/the-forest · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Yeah you would need an HDMI switch with a button to change between the two inputs. Maybe something like this

u/FiorinasFury · 1 pointr/xboxone

You're much better off going with a switch. I've personally bought several of these and they work great. I use one to swkfch between an Xbox and a ps4, and another to switch between an Xbox and a PC. They're cheap and they work great.

u/MatNomis · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

A KVM is possible, but the big advantage of a KVM is that it not only allows you to share a screen across two sources, but also an attached keyboard and mouse. Unless you intend to use a keyboard and a mouse with your Switch, I'd go for a far less expensive, 2-port HDMI switch. That's all you need if you're only concerned about video. Plus, I'd argue it has more future utility. It'll be smaller, because it has less ports and the ports it has are smaller. You could bring it with you when you travel and hook multiple things up to HDTV's at hotels or friends' places. Plus, most newer displays have HDMI ports. Buying a DVI KVM (or even a DVI-only video switcher) is going to be more expensive and clunkier.

Here's an example of stuff that would work. I am not endorsing these products at all, I'm just picking the first well-reviewed looking hit from my search results (on Amazon):

search terms: "2-port HDMI switch"

looks good: DotStone HDMI Switch Bi-Direction only $8.. You won't get anywhere near that with a KVM.

and then, with search terms "HDMI to dvi", you could probably use 1 or 2 of either these:

HDMI to DVI (cable)

or these HDMI to DVI (adapter)

If you have a ton of extra hdmi and/or dvi cables, you might prefer the adapter, otherwise you could use it on its own in cable-form. Keep in mind that in a typical setup, the Switch's audio is going through the HDMI cable as well, and whether you used a HDMI switch or a DVI KVM/switch, the connection to your monitor is going to have to terminate in DVI, and that DVI won't carry the audio. Does your monitor even have speakers? Even if it did, you most likely won't get any audio over DVI. I haven't tested this myself, but I just did a little research and found you can use the headphone jack on the Switch, while docked, to get it's audio, so depending on what's going to be playing your sound, you might need one or more things from this list:

stereo miniplug cable (male to male) - for going from Switch to portable speakers or anything with a line-in

miniplug couplers - handy if you need to plug the above into another male cable

miniplug to RCA adapter cable - for going from the Switch to a stereo system or similar



u/metaMMA · 1 pointr/PleX

Someone can probably chime in with a better answer, but I'm in the same situation (2 computers, one main monitor). As far as hardware, pick up a simple switch from Amazon/ebay for about 10 bucks. The link is for one on Amazon for HDMI. If they are both DVI or VGA, you could probably find one on ebay for 3-5 bucks. They're called 'KVM switches', I believe.

Otherwise, what I am doing now is, I have my main PC attached to my monitor. On both computers I have TeamViewer installed (but you could use any 'remote desktop" software). Then you login using a generated ID and the monitorless-computer screen is sent to and mirrored/displayed on your main computer monitor.

Keep in mind, using a software solution instead of a hardware solution will cost memory resources.

EDIT: Now that I think about it, "Plex/Sonarr/Radarr/torrent downloader" probably all have a web interface. For example on any computer on your network go to

  • http://[IP of media server]:32400 for plex
  • http://[IP of media server]:8989 for sonarr
  • http://[IP of media server]:7878 for radarr
  • http://[IP of media server]:8181 for plexPy
  • http://[IP of media server]:8112 for deluge

    Then you might very rarely have to actually use a monitor with the server. You might want to login to your router and give your server a static local IP. Otherwise to find it on the server, open terminal and type: 'ifconfig -a' or if that doesn't work, try 'ip addr'. show
u/arbitwah · 1 pointr/PS4

Looks like you don't have to plug it in with just two. HDCP is an encryption method. I have a switch that passes HDCP but only when external power is applied. Its was like 10 bucks extra for the plug. But the one I listed above claims to do HDCP pass through without the need of external power so It looks like your in luck on that end.

u/OC_Rookie · 1 pointr/techsupport
u/asherrd · 1 pointr/mildlyinteresting

The one's I had you could tell if the one in your room was set to listen to you because there was a button like "passive listening" or something. It would stay depressed while active, but pushing it again would pop it back out.

Damn I miss good physical buttons. I currently have an hdmi switcher that has an awesome super clicky button that has 2 physical states.

It is the best button I have used since 80s video players. Just fucking click it in and it feels so damn good. And then clicking another button and having the other one pop out. So satisfying. The absolute best though, was probably pressing down the tape on those top loading video players.

u/PerezVST · 1 pointr/xboxone

I had the same issue. Ended up buying this and it works perfectly. Doesn't mess with my TVs 4k resolution either.

Amazon UK
Amazon US

u/Mikejl87 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I bought one of these and it works perfectly. No power supply needed, but you do have to push a button to switch :\

u/Ninjrassic · 1 pointr/battlestations

How exactly are you able to connect everything via hdmi? I have a triple monitor set up and that takes up all of my ports. I bought this the other day and just hooked it up. It will not work with the headset but works fine when switching to the monitor.

Also, im quite envious of the large table that accompanies such a massive set-up.

u/that_random_Italian · 1 pointr/hometheater

This is the one i got I have one going to my 1080 P TV and one going to my 4k PC monitor. The source is a Ps4 Pro. Works great. the only thing you need to check is your cables. make sure they support 4k properly. I have longer HDMIs that say they support 4k but they didnt.

u/cljoy · 1 pointr/xboxone

Yes pretty much. If you want a monitor to share the PC and Xbox output, the you need a HDMI switch that supports 2 or more input and outputs to 1.

Just found this on amazon, this might do the job for you

HDMI Switcher 2 Ports Bi-direction Manual Switch 2 x 1/1 x 2 HDMI Hub-HDCP Passthrough-Supports Ultra HD 4K 3D 1080P By DotStone

It has good reviews too

u/100-Miler · 1 pointr/smartmirrors

I bought a simple low-profile HDMI switch from amazon and have it mounted on the side (hidden). Very small and needs no external power (link below). I'm using an amazon with Alexa fire stick for the streaming input, which is what I would recommend.

u/tin369 · 1 pointr/hometheater

HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player
This won’t work right? If it’s hdmi,

If it’s hdmi do I even need optical for soundbar. How would atmos work with a splitter?

u/theweebdweeb · 1 pointr/gaming

I just bought this because of my situation as shown in my reply to the other user in this thread. I heard it works well for gaming, and it has 3 slots, don’t know too much else though.

u/DearJohnDeeres_deer · 1 pointr/AskBattlestations

This is what I use for my Xbox/PC/Laptop. Can be a little finnicky sometimes but for the price it works pretty damn well :)

u/teh_vedo · 1 pointr/buildapc

HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player

I used this one when I was using PC and Switch with HDMI with only one HDMI port, and it worked well for me.

However, just because it worked for me doesn't mean you shouldn't look further. Browse some HDMI switches and see if you see one you like more, or if you want to try a different solution. Good luck!

u/ninjaoftrash · 1 pointr/mobileDJ

HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player

u/martipops · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I want it so that I am able to switch the output of an HDMI by the click of a button.

Kind of like this but with 3 out instead of 3 in.

u/alexofchicago · 1 pointr/playstation

This one is rated to support 4K devices and the reviews seem to be good.

u/Cloudslinger · 1 pointr/nintendo

I had the same problem as you with the HDMI ports. I use this thing for all of my nintendo systems.

I have it attached to the back of my TV. It auto uses port 1 (my Switch) but if I want to play the S/NES I have to tap the button to the other port.

u/musicalmath · 1 pointr/PS4

I use something like this:

HDMI Switch,GANA 3 Port 4K HDMI Switch 3x1 Switch Splitter with Pigtail Cable Supports Full HD 4K 1080P 3D Player

I only use it with my older consoles just Incase there is some graphics degradation but I haven’t noticed anything.

It autodetects which console is on and then uses it for the hdmi port.

u/BenderRodriguez14 · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

Ah good point, forgot about the two HDMIs! I've scoured and they seem to be really hard to find on ITX* motherboards (mine is a high end ITX that cost about $120 mainly due to overclocking capability, on board wifi, etc and it only had one also) - though you can pick up a splitter for like $10 on Amazon if that helps?

  • Motherboards typically come in three sizes: ATX which is the biggest, MATX which is 'micro' ATX and the next one down, and ITX (or MITX some call it) which is the smallest - this case runs on ITX.
u/myekul · 1 pointr/mariokart
u/jimmyhoffasbrother · 1 pointr/nfl

Get one of these things. Takes a few more HDMI cables, but you don't have to switch in and out of your devices.

u/twhiting9275 · 1 pointr/firetvstick

I have mine hooked up to this and it works just fine for me.

Then again, I wouldn't take anything Amazon 'support' says seriously. They have no clue what they're doing

u/Shoetardmcgavin · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

Just get a decent splitter.

1 cable plugs into the splitter and the other end of it goes into the tv. The ports on the splitter just need to be toggled.

u/elFesto44 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace


I wanted to use an HDMI switch to connect my PC, Switch and PS4 to my monitor for easy changing back and forth. I bought one but everytime I switch from my PC to a console, everything from the first monitor(discord, firefox etc) gets pushed to my second monitor. Is there a way to get around this so my monitors stay as they are when I switch away from the PC(even if it means buying a different switch)?

This is the switch I bought:

u/cream_blumkin · 1 pointr/PS4Pro

Yeah, I suppose a little rig info would have helped. I have a

Samsung js7000 suhd tv with one UHD port.

>PS4 pro > single Ibis input

>Ibis output 1 > second switch(to TV)

>Ibis output 2 > PSVR "TO PS4" hdmi port on processor unit.

>Processor unit to second switch(TV)

These and these are the cables I've tried in various combinations with the PS4 pro hdmi that came with the system.

Like I said, all of the hdmi cables from the ps4 to tv support RGB and HDR.

HDR is not supported on either channel of the Ibis switch on a tv that is HDR capable. Both channels on the switch shows that HDR is not supported and can not work due to the vr processor, which leads me to believe that the only signal being picked up is the vr processor, and not that of the ps4 pro.

u/coldtires · 1 pointr/PS4Pro

No that adapter wont work. this is what you need and it costs almost as much as a low end monitor.

Check that the Samsung actually supports 4K, see resolution timings in the manual 3840x2160@60Hz over HDMI.

Sony don't go out of their way to test PC monitors for compatibility (HDMI is not a 100% bulletproof standard) in which case something like a 4K HDMI switch could act as a buffer between the console and monitor hopefully resolving the issue as the switch pretends to be a TV to the console and a device to the display.

u/SativaSammy · 1 pointr/hometheater

I love monoprice, but I went ahead and bought this one:

4K@60Hz HDMI Switch 5x1 Awakelion Premium Quality 5 in 1 Out Switcher with IR Remote Support,HDCP 2.2,UHD,HDR,Full HD

Thanks for your help.

u/Melchiah_III · 1 pointr/PS4Pro

Not a splitter, you need an HDMI switch, like this:

u/Mrmustard17 · 1 pointr/PS4Pro

HDMI 2.0 Switch 5x1 Awakelion Premium Quality 4K x 2K/60Hz 5 In 1 Out HDMI Switcher with IR Wireless Remote, HDMI 2.0 & AC Power adapter- Supports HDCP2.2 HDR 3D, 1080p.

This is the one I purchased. It is HDMI 2.0 so it should support HDR no issues. I used it with my non-hdr tv but didn’t need it with my new set that has HDR.

u/squidtastisized · 1 pointr/xboxone

This is the one I picked up recently. It supports 4k and HDR. I had an older one I got from radioshack years ago but replaced it with this one for the newer features. I haven't had any problems with it so far.

u/Tuffarelli · 1 pointr/Stadia
u/Ghiizhar · 1 pointr/samsung

I just now setup my UN40MU7000 with and HDMI switch with an Xbox One X, and Sony UBP-X800 UHD Blu-ray player and both work perfectly.

All the X1X 4k boxes are ticked, and the Sony plays full UHD w/HDR, and Dolby Atmos sound.

Switches smoothly between inputs while both devices are active.

I am using this switch: [Awakelion Premium Quality 4K x 2K/60Hz HDMI Switcher] ( and these cables: SecurOMax HDMI Cable 3ft - HDMI 2.0
4K @ 60Hz

u/benreedkc · 1 pointr/xboxone

I’m running this with a One X & PS4 Pro on a 4K HDR display. Works great. Solid metal construction. It is $50, but it’s been worth it

u/vuoriliikaluoma · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
u/andybee02 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

Ah, gotcha. Makes sense. I'd do something like this, that way you could fully control the input.

u/The_Kraken_ · 1 pointr/audio

As long as you only want to output to one set of speakers/headphones at a time, this switch should be pretty close to what you're looking for.

You're probably not going to find a USB input, 3.5mm output, and RCA output on a cheap device. If you NEED those features, you're going to probably need to buy some sort of mixer. My suggestion (if you can) is to take the 3.5mm out of your PC, and then buy a RCA to 3.5mm adapter for the amplifier.

u/Starionn · 1 pointr/headphones

If you're using a USB dac with the amp, you can switch back and forth using the sound devices list in Windows.

If you're using the amp from the output of your motherboard/sound card, you may want to try a physical switch/splitter to go back and forth between amp and speakers.

u/linguisticabstractn · 1 pointr/buildapc

I think this thing this would do what you're looking to do.

u/DdCno1 · 1 pointr/AskTechnology
u/GuyFromNh · 1 pointr/audiophile

If you used a receiver it’s internal switching would fix the problem for sure. But I see you want a quick fix for a bad (but simple) wiring job. Use something like this:

u/alias-enki · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Though, just buying an external sound card would be less expensive, once you account for cables and everything if you don't mind doing sound in software.

u/Sheilamainbattletank · 1 pointr/pcparts

Something like a switch box like this?

u/Sujan · 1 pointr/audio

Thank you very much!

Your explanation makes total sense: (in lay terms) half the signal is just being sent into the wrong wire and not making it to the sound system.

Mixers also seem to be the tool for the job if you need to be able to target multiple devices at the same time - and not even that expensive for how advanced they look.

But as you suspected, this would actually be pretty much overkill: I don't ever need audio from the Chromecast Audio and TV at the same time. I am also fine with having to walk over and hit a switch to change the input from one to the other.

Quick search later I found, but this is big for the job. and are smaller but still a bit pricey.

Any suggestion for small, simple and cheap-ish splitters that would match my use case?

(I will probably need 2 new male to male 3.5mm plug cables to connect my devices to the switcher, I guess?)

u/wayward_wanderer · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I'm having a hard time following your situation since it looks like you're mixing up input/output and possibly describing the wrong direction of signal conversion. It sounds like maybe what you want is to use analog 3.5mm speakers with your PC and the PS4. The PS4 doesn't have analog 3.5mm output, but does have optical audio so you want an optical audio to analog 3.5mm converter. Did I get that right?

Does your PC have optical or coaxial audio output as well? If it does, then you could get a digital audio switch with analog 3.5mm output. Both the PC and PS4 would use optical/coaxial audio output which the switch converts to 3.5mm audio for the speaker. Here's an example of such a switch:

If your PC only has analog 3.5mm output, then you would want to get an optical to 3.5mm converter and a 3.5mm switch.

Here's an example of an optical to analog 3.5mm converter:
Here's an example of a 3.5mm switch:

If both your PC and PS4 are connected to the same display and you are using HDMI for both, then you could get an HDMI switch with 3.5mm output. Here's an example of that kind of switch:

I have't used any of the products that I've linked to so those links are not recommendations. They could be complete junk for all I know. I've only provided those links as references for what kind of device you should look for in your research.

Also, when looking for converters and switches you need to be really careful about which direction the signal is going. The switches/converters are typically not bi-directional which means they only work one way. An optical to analog 3.5mm converter will not work as a 3.5mm to optical converter. You need to be aware of which is input and which is output.

u/ModestVolcarona · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Maybe something like this would "fix" this problem:

edit: this is just an example, so you know what i mean. I don't have any experience with this product.

u/LuminescentMoon · 1 pointr/techsupport

Make sure the DVI splitter will not break HDCP unless you don't plan on playing any DRM-protected audio/video at all (Netflix, Blu-ray, etc).

The solutions in my comment still apply but you could also use something like this

EDIT: wait a sec. If you're planning on splitting one output from your GPU to your 2 monitors and expect both displays to be recognized independently by your computer, it DOES NOT work that way.

u/hxcxdonneee · 1 pointr/audio

if your only connecting two devices, i recently seen this: this thing can combine audio sources and push them to it's in/out port. it can also be used as a switch.

you'd then need an toshlink to trs converter and rca to 3.5mm to plug into that and have it push audio out to your soundbar.


it's all 3.5mm so if you get any noise, get some cheap ground loop isolators as well and connect them to all the in's and outs.

u/beyondbidj · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

This was the first one that appeared on search:

Not sure if that's something like what you mean.

u/dubtothet · 1 pointr/audio
u/about70hobos · 1 pointr/audiophile

Looking to purchase the PB42X speakers. I'm getting the TRS to RCA cable as well.


The part i need advice on is if is going to affect the sound quality in any appreciable way? I want two of them one to switch at my PC between headphones and the speakers, and one at my speakers to switch between the PC input and a turntable input.

u/Taegire01 · 1 pointr/Monitors

Just an audio switch connect it to the headphone jack on the monitor as well as your speakers.

I have my firestick connected to my monitor but the audio comes out through the speakers/subwoofer

u/ImaginaryCheetah · 1 pointr/hometheater

is your HDMI reference just an example or is that what you have?

you just need a "HDMI switcher with audio extractor".

for example :

you'll need to use the switcher remote when you change sources, but won't have to change anything on the TV to change input devices. audio will track with whatever the HDMI source is.

u/DraconKing · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I have a similar problem to yours but instead of a PS4, it's a PC. Basically, I have 2 monitors and I like to switch one monitor from PC to switch and viceversa and my monitors only have DVI and VGA ports. This obviously sucks because I can't switch the monitor output from DVI to HDMI which would have helped a lot instead of the setup i got. I do however got a speaker set that does allow for multiple inputs, so that will work great with my switch and PC in theory. I have a discrete audio card, you should be fine unless you want to route the sound from the PS4 using TOSLINK (I do believe it has one).

So, all I can tell you from my experience... before you buy something like this, is that you do check that the device will let you add an HDMI to DVI converter to the end. In my case (the one I linked) it did not work. I wouldn't get a signal working out with the adapter... shocking i know, because it even says that it won't work with a passive HDMI to DVI adapter on the amazon listing. Anyway, I kind of lucked out because I had bought a capture card in the past and all I have to do is route it to my capture card and use the passthrough function of it (which essentially rebuilds the HDMI stream? I have no idea). I can then use my HDMI-DVI adapter and it works perfectly. The caveat though is that my PC has to be on while I'm playing. Which isn't much a deal because I actually use both most of the time.

But anyway, you obviously shouldn't be buying a capture card for this (unless that's what you want, then the above setup should work fine?), if you do end up buying something like I linked (2+ hdmi switchs with audio extractors) and it doesn't let you use the adapter for HDMI to DVI for your monitor then you can probably get something like this. I haven't test it out so I can't tell if it'll work but it should be doing the same that my capture card is doing. Obviously, it would be best if you could get a 2+ hdmi switch to DVI with audio extractor but there's none i could find.

If you do end up with a setup similar to mine, know this:

  1. You'll end up with 2 devices that need their own power supply and both of them will be on while you play.
  2. You'll need a considerable amount of hdmi cables (I'm terrible at cable management)
  3. When there's no source detected the switch will be actively searching for a HDMI signal and that somehow prevents monitors/TV sleeping functions. I think it will depend on your monitor and hdmi switch but in my case I have to turn off the monitor connected to the switch when i'm not using it.

    And at last, with the amount of money you'll spend on a speaker setup, hdmi cables, passive adapters and the HDMI shenanigans you can probably just buy a 30" inch smart tv for like $100 bucks. Hell, I'm sure you could find old as hell gigantic hdmi tvs for $100 or less. My step dad couldn't get rid of his old as hell 55" tv and had to actually pay money to get rid of it.
u/_mutelight_ · 1 pointr/hometheater

There are switches like this which have analog outputs.

How is your monitor configured where you need RCA input? I was thinking you would have your devices connected to the switch and then the digital audio from the HDMI sources would be output via analog audio to some speakers or something.

u/ericbsmith42 · 1 pointr/PlaystationClassic

My initial thought was "no way in hell that would work." I happened to have a pair of Logitech USB speakers sitting here and gave it a try, and as I suspected it didn't work. Even IF it has drivers for a USB audio device there's no easy way to tell it to use the USB device instead of the HDMI; you'd have to hack it to mod it's boot options somehow.

What you can do is get a USB Audio Extractor, something like this one which has 3 HDMI inputs, one output, and a stereo & toslink audio output. This will run you about $25 but allow you to hook up a pair of speakers (or a Receiver via TOSLink). Now, I will warn you, I had a cheap one like this and had an issue where my PC wouldn't recognize the monitor as an audio device, even with the switch/extractor in the middle, so it wouldn't play audio even when my standalone blu-ray player would, so this may not work for you, in which case you should be ready and willing to return it.

u/Craw13 · 1 pointr/sonos

Grab a HDMI extractor.

I just got a this and it works great (was recommended here on reddit): Proster 3x1 HDMI Switch with...

u/SwissMoose · 1 pointr/hometheater

Maybe just get an HDMI switch that has audio out (analog or digital) Example. Then plug in an Nvidia Shield for Netflix, Prime, Chromecast, NAS support on HDMI 1, then leave the Switch dock plugged into HDMI 2. Easy peasy.

u/akaraff · 1 pointr/sonos
u/MickMcGeough · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm trying to set up a secondary listening area that doubles as a 2.1 "home theater". It's primary function is for 2 channel audio, about 50/50 vinyl/digital (via Roon over Chromecast). Secondary is for streaming video via Chromecast.

Basically I'm not interested in the features an AVR comes with, except HDMI switching and audio processing. I just need the HDMI audio extracted to a coax, optical, or USB out to go to my Emotiva DAC.

Is there any reason not to just find a budget HDMI switch and audio extractor like this?

Can I expect bit perfect audio to the DAC this way?

u/dalvikcachemoney · 1 pointr/techsupport

Since your TV has no audio outputs, your only option is to pull the audio from the sources you are plugging in to the TV. If you are only using HDMI inputs, you can get a HDMI switch with audio output. Something like this will get you audio out and then you'd also need something like this to transmit the audio over bluetooth.

u/MutatedSpleen · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Well, if you're willing to buy something, you could get an HDMI audio extractor which will separate your audio source so you can plug in your headset.

u/kamanashi · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

I use this one:

Have my PS4, Xbox One, and Switch into it so I can just use my one headset without unplugging and plugging it into another console. Switches automatically to whatever console you turn on. USB powered, so can be ran using whatever USB wall plug or console USB you want.

u/AntoineInTheWorld · 1 pointr/techsupport

You would be looking at something like that:

3 HDMI inputs from your consoles, 1 HDMI to your TV, 1 optical to your soundsystem

Not personally tested, but I was looking for a similar solution a little while ago

u/LoudCommentor · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Thanks mate. Probably will just use this one:

I'm really liking that it has usb power. Most likely my computer will be on anyway, so my monitor will be able to power something via usb. It also has optical out, which means I can save my analogue in on the amp for something later down the track!

Doesn't have 4k or 1440p at 60Hz though...

u/idunowat23 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Oh I misunderstood. You just need an HDMI Switch

You'll need three HDMI cables for that. One for each PC and one from the switch to the monitor.

u/raistlin65 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Something like this might work for you since you don't have spare HDMI out

u/anwaypasible · 1 pointr/hometheater

you know how 3d is extra & extra makes something fall asleep., well then from there the casing should dictate the static & you can compensate - but the compensation & the shape again dictates the final.

with that said, i chose this one:

u/cknhead718 · 1 pointr/techsupport

something like this would work: HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter-Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 2 Input 1 Output, HDMI Switch Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2. No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku HDTV

u/ChiefBroady · 1 pointr/techsupport

Hey hey, slow your horses. I never wrote quality. Just no usb needed.

But there you go, 10 bucks, over 3k reviews and 4.5 starts. I’d buy that sucker if I needed one.

u/webdesignwordpress · 1 pointr/PS4

Well, you get a HDMI 2 in 1 out splitter. It’s probably for $10

u/PM_ME_FAT_FURRYGIRLS · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If by virtual monitor you mean you want to display the Switch gameplay on your PC desktop using the same monitor, you would need something like one of the Elgato capture cards to receive and display the image. This tends to introduce a good deal of latency, however, as it takes a few milliseconds for the device to receive the signal and pass it to your PC for display. They also aren't cheap.

Alternatively you could get a cheap HDMI switcher. Plug both your PC and your Switch into the switcher, plug the one HDMI output into your monitor, and now you only have to push a button to swap between them instead of going through your monitor's settings.

u/WATCH_DOGS_SUCKS · 1 pointr/simracing

First, questions.

  • Why are your monitors all using different connections? Are they all different models? If they're the same, why not just have them all use Displayport?
  • How far away will the TV be away from the tower? Would you need a cable longer than 6ft to connect them? Considering that the cable will need a good amount of slack for cable management, as well.

    Now, a suggestion.

  • If your monitors all have Displayport... ports, just hook them all up to Displayport. If for some reason you can't, or just really don't want to, you'll need a way to connect your HDMI TV to a Displayport. You don't even have to get an adapter box, you can just use a wire with HDMI on one end, Displayport on the other.

    Anyway, some options.

  • Software Switch - I'm assuming you use Windows 10. If you do, you can just switch your active screen without having to do anything more than using a Keyboard shortcut. Display Switch (Windows button + P) will allow you to quickly switch your display option, allowing you to quickly turn your TV's input on or off. However, I don't know if this will mess with any of your display settings, it might. If it does, you'd have to fiddle with the other two screens' settings every time you switch back to your desk. If you do this option, by the way, and you keep a keyboard on your rig, you can just use the shortcut to switch between displays.

  • Hardware Switch - An adapter box that switches your output between two screens (like this, for example). You'd have to have to physically press the button each time you switch between your desk and TV (though they do make ones that have a remote), but this way you wouldn't have to worry about any software issues. You'd connect this to your main monitor and the TV, and simply press the button to switch between them. Your PC would re-adjust the resolution for you (it would detect that the screen its outputting to changes), but other than that it wouldn't have an affect on it, it would just think that your middle monitor is now the TV. You'd still only be projecting the game screen to one display at a time, so it wouldn't have any affect on the game's performance.

  • Software Mirroring - Exactly as it sounds. One of the options in the Display Switch panel is Duplicate, which mirrors your main monitor's output to your TV. You could just leave this on, and just turn your TV on or off as needed. The only problem is that since your system would be outputting the game to two displays, it may have a negative affect on the system's performance. This is the option I don't recommend.

  • Hardware Splitter - A box that takes one input and mirrors it to two outputs (example). It wouldn't be a switch, it would just constantly mirror the output to two displays. The difference is that your GPU would only be making one output, the box is just sending the signal to two displays. This way, it shouldn't have an affect on your PC's performance. Just turn the TV on and off as needed.

  • Separate System - This is the extreme option, having a separate PC for your rig entirely. If the only games you play on your PC are racing sims, you could just use your current PC for the rig and have a new PC for your desk, its specs depending on what kind of work you do with it. While this is, again, the logical extreme solution... it's not necessarily unreasonable to have separate systems for work and play.


    ^(- None of these options should introduce lag, but if you get a splitter or switch box, make sure they're noted with low-latency and check the reviews.)

    ^(- You could stream the game to your TV with something like the Steam Link... but your TV is in the same room as the PC-- hell from the sounds of it, it's within the same arm's reach as the TV. Streaming it is alright if the system and the TV were across the house, but its a needlessly complicated and clunky idea in this situation.)

    ^(- If you do use a hardware solution, keep in mind that the small consumer boxes can only use cables of a reasonable length. Generally speaking, you shouldn't use a cable longer than 9ft from the box to your TV, or the wire won't carry the signal to the display. Longer than that, you'll probably need a) ^(signal repeater)^(.)

    If you have any questions, let me know. I hope this helps you find your answer.

    EDIT: More info.
u/Protonion · 1 pointr/buildapc

Nope. Unfortunately the monitor's menu is "isolated" and can not be controlled with anything but the buttons. If you want an easier solution, you could get an HDMI switch, like this one

u/carlmmii · 1 pointr/Twitch

Just need an HDMI switcher. Your inputs would be your game pc and the PS4 pro. The output goes to your elgato, with the passthrough going to your monitor.

Since you're only talking about 2 inputs, you can go as simple as this thing. There's a whole sea of options though, so depending on what you want, you can have switchers with more inputs, multiple outputs (in case you want to do away with the need to use the elgato's passthrough to send to the monitor), and even optical/analog audio extraction.

This is what we use for our living room setup (6-input, 2-output, optical and analog audio extraction that's selectable between A/B outs). Obviously overkill for your needs, but this is just an example of what's out there, and it's pretty reasonably priced.

u/TDiV_PrismFox · 1 pointr/xboxone

HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter - Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 1 In 2 Out or 2 Input 1 Output, No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku Blu-Ray player HDTV

u/queazy · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

Hi. Will this be a good HDMI splitter to strip the HDCP signals with a PS4, so I can make animated gifs of Blue Ray discs with?

It does say PS4 / Xbox on it already, but I really want to make sure this doesn't get screwed up so I wanted to run it by you first to make sure, you being more knowledgeable than me about this subject. Thank you very much.

u/Charon711 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I think you could use a HDMI switch.

HDMI Switch 4K HDMI Splitter-Techole Aluminum Bi-Directional HDMI Switcher 2 Input 1 Output, HDMI Switch Splitter 2 x 1/1 x 2. No External Power Required, Supports 4K 3D HD 1080P for Xbox PS4 Roku HDTV

I'd research it a bit more to make sure it would work right.

u/Jnsjknn · 1 pointr/NoStupidQuestions

Is this what you're looking for?

u/2HornsUp · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

OP this is a better option. You dont need a full KVM unless you want to use the full size keyboard and mouse with the laptop as well. Also if you want to be able to switch the input for your displays while both devices are plugged in, there are HDMI switches with that functionality included. I'll try to find the one I got and link it here.

Here you go

u/CrazyBusTaker · 1 pointr/PSVR

I have been using this for about a year and have had no problems so far:\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_hm-RDbWCHQ9ZE

u/Huecuva · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

DVI-HDMI cables don't work that way. They are monodirectional. DVI is not capable of interpreting the HDMI input. That cable would only work the other way around, from DVI to HDMI. The HDMI can interpret and process the DVI signal. If your monitor only has the one HDMI port, you may need to look into getting an HDMI switch.

As a side note: It used to be that if your DVI (dual link DVI-D only) port on your video card was any other colour than white, it not only outputs the DVI signal but also the complete HDMI signal so if the device you were connecting to had speakers, you could also get audio from DVI port as long as you were using a dual link DVI-D to HDMI cable. I think now most video cards also have audio cards built in and the colour of the DVI port no longer matters since I haven't seen a white DVI port in a long time and dual link DVI-D is the is the only DVI still used.

u/Da_Rhino · 1 pointr/desksetup

Couple of questions, Does your keyboard have a bluetooth switcher build in? the biggest issue would be the mouse. If you are okay with switching your peripherals when you with OS then all you really need is a switch. I do it with my gaming PC and my MacBook, but I use the input switch on my monitor.

If you want a physical button:
^^^This is a nice elegant switch you could stick under your desk and push to switch.

If you want a keyboard that switches I personally like Logitech stuff and I am not sure about a mouse that switches. Hope this helps let me know id you have any more questions!

u/SgtFraggleRock · 1 pointr/hometheater
u/R33koh · 1 pointr/PS4

I have a splitter for my Xbox One X and 4K output does pass through the splitter, but HDR is inconsistent.


I used this:

u/dogeatdawg · 1 pointr/buildapc

I use this splitter. The 1 port side is to my GPU, and it connects to my monitor and an Oculus Rift. The button lets me toggle which screen is active.

Sometimes I have to unplug the GPU side (at the switch) and plug it back in to force it to refresh, but that's the only issue. It works for letting me switch between monitor and headset without needing to reach back behind the case.

u/ldhawaii · 1 pointr/PS4

I bought this cheap one a few months ago to switch between a PC and Nintendo Switch. Works great.

u/v4nill4c0k3 · 1 pointr/PS4

I do this as well and am currently using this one. 2 months in and no issues

Edit: monitor side is using a 12ft hdmi cord so no issue there

u/schwabadelic · 1 pointr/5by5DLC

I bought this and it works flawlessly.

u/MiTurnerMC · 1 pointr/Twitch

Some monitors allow for multiple inputs so that would be the choice you may want to look into. You can also purchase a switcher where you plug all inputs into one unit and choose between the inputs of choice :)

Something similar to this one:

Of course I'm sure there are better switcher options out there but that's what I retrieved on a quick amazon search haha

u/i_use_this_for_work · 1 pointr/Chromecast

I have this one:

My TV has 3 HDMI ports, but between my DVD changer/theatre receiver (it's 2-way), cable box, PS4, and chromecast, I was left one short.

This HDMI switcher (like many others) will auto switch when it receives a signal, based on priority of the port.

I.E. you put your cable box into port 3, and chromecast into port 1. when it senses a signal from the chromecast, it'll autoswitch to that port.

u/aloehart · 1 pointr/retrogaming

The Switch is the only console of the generation I have or have any plans to buy so far. Can't help you with 4k I'm afraid.

However this is the selector I use.

u/Cierex96 · 1 pointr/battlestations

Yea sorry I didn't see this. I use this:

Works like a charm, easy to swap my main monitor between my Xbox and PC and once I build my desktop I'll just add a third spot for if I need to use all three at once for some unknown reason

u/1776181219181945 · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

Your output from the HD60 pro is the same as its input. You've essentially added something in the middle of the connection.

Your computer isn't hooked up to your second monitor at all.

You could add a third monitor if you wish to keep your 2nd dedicated to the other HDMI source, or you could add an HDMI switch that you would plug your computer and HD60 pro into as input and then output to the monitor that would allow you to use it for both, but only one at a time.

Fosmon HD1832 Intelligent 5-Port HDMI Switch with IR Remote and AC Adapter Supports 3D, Black

This allows you to have 2 HDMI sources into your monitor (HD60 and PC) and toggle between them.

u/adanceparty · 1 pointr/buildapc

an hdmi switcher. Here is one

I personally use this one:

and love it. It has smart switch, so anytime I turn on a console it automatically switches inputs, in the rare case it doesn't it has a button on the device, and it comes with a remote. I have 3 consoles and a pc hooked up to one monitor with this thing and it's one of the best purchases I've made in a long time.

u/David60641 · 1 pointr/wiiu

I use the Fosman HD 1832 5 port switch for my Wii U, and it works great.

Amazon Link

u/rippinblaise · 1 pointr/DIY

A cleaner solution to your 2 HDMI input TV might be something like this:

u/NoShftShck16 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You could just toggle the TV as a second monitor in display settings. Or get something like this however if the resolutions are different you'd have to adjust it every time you hit the switch (I think...)

u/Cool_Hwip_Luke · 1 pointr/rocksmith

I think it should be fine.

You may need to turn tv volume down if it sounds like echo.

You could also try an HDMI switch.

u/newtekie1 · 1 pointr/gaming

Get something like this:

Much cheaper and easier than trying to get it routed through your computer.

u/hotshot24700 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Any recommendations? There's so many on Amazon but this one is the most popular:

Fosmon HD1831 3-Port HDMI Switch with Pigtail Cable

u/Emerald_Flame · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, you want an HDMI switch then, the device link/CEC passthrough would probably only work for the currently selected input though.

Something like this would work for 1080p

u/Shadow_Thief · 1 pointr/Batch
u/Eromu · 1 pointr/PS4

I use this one to switch between my PC, PS3 and PS4 and haven't had any issues with it.

u/Chiefchic · 1 pointr/battlestations

My reply was rejected because I used a url shortener, here's the full link:

I hooked it up and attached it to the back of my monitor with Velcro. It does auto-detect the signal reasonably well and it's easy to reach behind the monitor and hit the selection button when I want to actively switch.

u/KesMonkey · 1 pointr/xboxone

A switch is for plugging multiple sources to one display. A splitter is for connecting one source to multiple displays. You want a switch.

However, some listings on Amazon will label a switch as a splitter, a splitter as a switch, or label a device as a switch splitter.

I use one of these and it works fine.

It's available with many different brandings. They're all the same.






u/defiledhero · 1 pointr/buildapc

So I use a single monitor and I decided to extend my display to my Playstation Television. I bought this splitter:

I just tried using it and I don't think it's working? I connected the single end to my graphics card and the other 2 to the 3-input end. Nothing is being shown..did I buy the wrong product or am I doing something wrong?

Pls help a lost soul

u/Uzonna · 1 pointr/laptops

This is for your USB dock and this is for your HDMI Splitter

u/jackred1 · 1 pointr/GoodValue
This one, TCL is a good brand they make good computer monitors.
And for 329 dollars u cant do better than that.
When u watch 4k netflix ur mind will be so blown u would not regret for a second 4k upgrade.

and for the hdmi problem everyone has, u can get an hdmi split all tvs dont have many hdmi ports like is rare one who have more than 4. This will solve most of ur problems and also will be helpfull since it will make plugging hdmi accesible.

u/DanPlaysVGames · 1 pointr/buildapc

This switch and use a HDMI splitter. However this means all or nothing. Alternatively you can use this on one monitor only.

u/mccann5 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Would it just be best to get an HDMI switch like this?

u/pianogamer005 · 1 pointr/mac

Because you want three of them and the display you want doesn't support Thunderbolt, you'll need a lot of cabling. You could try USB-C to HDMI to an HDMI splitter. If you've got the budget and want to expand to more ports than just HDMI then you can get this Thunderbolt 3 hub, and use the splitter from that.

u/tanuki94 · 1 pointr/techsupport

How about this

u/y2kdread · 1 pointr/Tivo

I have my Tivo and Raspberry Pi going into my xbox through an HDMI Switch. I can switch to the Raspberry Pi with no issues, but if I switch to the Tivo the screen is just dark and nothing comes through. I can switch back to the Raspberry Pi with no issues. This is the switch I am using:

I don't need 4K or anything like that, but I might try the two port version of the Monoprice Blackbird Pro.

u/THE-73est · 1 pointr/PS4
u/MurkLurker · 1 pointr/atv4

I'm not sure if this would help, but here is what I bought when I ran out of HDMI slots.

Amazon link

It has 3 HDMI slots and for me at least, when I turn power on to my ATV4 that is what displays, if I then turn on my PS3 it will switch to that automatically. I have my cable box on a separate HDMI slot, so I don't know how it would work with that.

u/dreamer_2142 · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Ok m8, so after researching more, looks like MB42X is one of the best one out there and the bad review is from people who don't have subwoofer and they expect lower frequency from this speaker since I'm already going to get a Dayton 1000 sub, I believe MB42X is going to perfect for me. especially reviews say it performs really good on mid-range which is important for me since I watch a lot of movies. so here is my final list, can you tell me if I'm missing something like if the banana plug is correct (and how many of them I need?), and do I need the cable (no cable comes with the speaker?) and check for the AMP if it's good enough.

u/VE6XVK · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Just as an example, these are a type of banana plugs you can buy on Amazon. You can buy cheaper plastic plugs for sure, but I think for a radio of this build calibre, gold plated plugs would look the part. As /u/VE6LK mentioned, you would cut off the plug from the crystal earpiece and wire banana plug to each of the wires from the earpiece.

Alternatively, if you really are uncomfortable with stripping and connecting wires, you might look at an adapter like this one on Amazon. The only problem that may surface is that this adapter uses the standard spacing of 3/4 inch between the plugs, so you need to make sure that your father's radio is at the same spacing. You would also need a 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch reducer for this adapter to reduce it down to the size of your crystal earpiece plug.

I'm still looking for a better option for the pre-made cable - If I find something better I'll edit this comment.

u/6x9equals42 · 1 pointr/audiophile

They usually don't include the wire for connecting them, you just need some speaker wire. You can also get banana plugs to make plugging the wire in easier but that's optional

u/nubgrub · 1 pointr/hometheater

Speaker wire for the speakers, digital coaxial or subwoofer cables for the sub.

It looks like binding posts for banana plugs for the speaker connections on the wall plate.

Amazon and monoprice are good places for speaker wire as well.

Banana plugs -5 pairs

Subwoofer Cable -8ft. There are plenty out there for cheap. Just search subwoofer cable.

50ft 14 GA speakerwire. The speaker wire connects to the bananaplugs.

u/Mobscenee · 1 pointr/audiophile

Okay I bought one of these below. So I should buy one more, correct?

Also, Should I get a crimping tool for the wires? Never done this before so need some help.

Thank you.

u/azzzaaz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile


For the Infinity R253s (2x), I need 8 banana plugs (2x of this item). Also 14G wire in your link, according to Crutchfield since these are 6ohm speakers?

u/Sindroome24 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hey! I just realised that I'm an idiot. How do I connect the speakers to the amp? Would 12 gauge speaker wire with these as connectors work? I've never seen em before.

u/the_skine · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I'm assuming, based on your other responses (and because you haven't specified) that you're hooking this up to a computer exclusively, and that you have limited desk space (meaning that standard bookshelf speakers won't fit). Also, I'm going to assume that you don't have SPDIF or optical connections, since you haven't said that you do.

My suggestion, then, would be:

  • Micca MB42X, $80 on Amazon
  • Nobsound Mini Bluetooth Power Amplifier, $31 on Amazon
  • AmazonBasics Speaker Wire, $9 on Amazon

    At their price and size, the Miccas are great speakers.

    The Nobsound was reviewed by Zeos a while back, and he was pleasantly surprised. Note that you can attach the amp to your computer using USB, the 3.5mm jack, or bluetooth.

    The speaker wire is there just to remind you to factor that into your cost. You may already have some laying around, or you can probably find some cheaper than that, or in shorter lengths.


  • The Nobsound comes with a 12v 5a (12×5=60W) power supply. So you're limited to ~25-30 watts per channel. This is more than enough for desk setups and small rooms, especially given the relatively efficient Micca speakers. But if you find yourself wanting more power, you can upgrade the power supply for around $15-$20.
  • Banana plugs make hooking up speakers a whole lot easier. Monoprice banana plugs are $10 on Amazon. The only thing to pay attention to here is that most banana plugs will only accept 12 gauge to 16 gauge speaker wire.
  • Subwoofer. Neither your Logitech speakers nor the Miccas really do low end (under 60 Hz). This enters an entirely separate discussion about price, performance, and what you want out of your setup, though. I will say, though, that with the Nobsound amplifier, you'll need a sub with high-level (speaker wire) passthroughs.
u/See-Phor · 1 pointr/hometheater

Hmm.. here are the plugs: Monoprice 24k Gold Plated Speaker Banana Plugs, Closed Screw Type (5 Pairs)

And here is my wire: C&E 100 Feet 14AWG Enhanced Loud Oxygen-Free Copper Speaker Wire Cable, CNE62761

Do I have to fan it out so it's really spread out ? Like no wires bunched together ?

u/Suqei · 1 pointr/audiophile

I'm running from my LP-120 to my preamp into the receiver. Then the speakers into the receiver.

My main problem is where the wire goes. Do I put the wire directly into the the red/black terminals and then screw those down? Or do I need something like this to put the wire in before I plug it into the speaker/receiver?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to get it right. Thanks for your help so far.

u/suburban_robot · 1 pointr/audiophile

To start you need an integrated amplifier. Here's the one recommended in the purchase help thread. This unit will provide power to the speakers so they can play back audio.

Next you need a cable that runs from your phone's headphone jack (assuming it has one) to the amp. Here you go.

Now you need to connect the amp to the speakers. Since you have a sub, you will run speaker cable from the amp to the sub, and then from the sub to each of the speakers. Here's 50 ft of speaker cable which should be more than enough to get the job done. You'll also need a wire stripper tool to remove the casing at each of the cabling, here you go. Would also recommend some banana plugs to make things easier but they aren't required.

This gets you live audio to your speakers. Had you done some research ahead of time you probably would have landed on buying active speakers instead, which would have saved you the need for all of this equipment except the $7 audio cable.

u/2xlpizzas · 1 pointr/vinyl

Hey Guys, I'm trying to create a some-what cheap and MODERN set up for myself with multiple use (but limited channels in the receiver, so I found a receiver with Bluetooth option) and high convenience... Am I missing anything? Or is there anything I should add?

Cheap Bluetooth w/ Limited Channels Receiver

Turntable, and I really love this one.... Really Jacks Up Price

Speakers that come with wire, but adding a spool from amazon anyways...

Wire and Plugs

Do I need anything else? Hi-Fi amp or something? The turntable comes with a phono-preamp and the speakers look decent and are at my price range. Any tips on how to set this up as well? Including the best way to use the plugs or if I should get different plugs.

With the current prices of this post, the overall price is... $462.88 USD and W/O the turntable, it is $213.88 XD

Replacement Turntable that is affordable which puts the new price at $298.88

u/TactFully · 1 pointr/buildapc

Unfortunately £100 is just around the lower limit of the very-entry level, not really mid-range if we're going to be honest.

The easy solution is M-audio AV-40s. They are 'powered monitors' so the amplifier is inside, all you have to do is feed them signal.

Alternatively, you could go for "passive" bookshelf loudspeakers and an amplifier. The advantage to this route is that you can upgrade the speakers or amp separately (edit: also each individual component is probably at least a bit better than the av40s, and if anything ever fails it can be replaced separately; it's just more flexible overall). There's some extra work involved but it's not difficult..

These Wharfedale 9.0 should be good for the price (the Diamond 9.1 were reviewed by Stereophile and they measure well for the price).

You'll need an amp, speaker wire, and some banana plugs are helpful. Oh, and probably a 3.5mm stereo to 2RCA cable to connect your 3.5mm source(s) to the amp.

How much better are either of these compared to tiny computer speakers like Logitech or Creative etc.? Much better.

u/judasblue · 1 pointr/tDCS

Those look like 2mm straight plugs to me, not bannana plugs, which are:

Banana plugs have spring fittings on them. Electrode plugs don't. Easy mistake to make.

All the carbon, Amrex and TENS electrodes I have seen use straight plugs.

u/Stevo592 · 1 pointr/hometheater

I will probably get flak for doing this but here you go:

Sony SSB1000 ($55) These speakers are pretty good for how cheap they are. Much better than the Micca Covos.

SMSL-SA-50 ($68) I have this amp and it is awesome how much it puts out. I see the people all the time recommend the Lepai LP-2020 for cheap setups but ignore that amp. Get this one.

There you have it. Cheap setup that is entirely expandable. Get some Banana plugs and some cheap speaker wire.

Later on if you save your pennies you can buy something like the dayton sub for about 100 bucks and will fit nicely with that setup.

u/Jesustime · 1 pointr/audiophile

How do I know what gauge to get? I this sufficient Wire, Bananas and Wire Cutters. I think I will skip the DAC for now and see how everything sounds? As I can always buy one later and add it in but how do I know if I need one?
Edit: Thank you for the help!

u/Willfreckles · 1 pointr/audiophile

How does it work? I was under the impression that I could hook up the speakers to my AI usingsome of these through the L-R line out and the jobs a good?

u/madtrucks · 1 pointr/audiophile

Monoprice Banana Plugs - 5 pairs - CA$11 Link

u/Zarsk · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

This is the Amazon link. The only number I can find is 109-pcb-v2.0

u/Turtle_Tosser · 1 pointr/xboxone

What splitter is it? I have this one and have it hooked up with XB1 360 and PC and it works great.

u/bunnysoup · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I love this dish.

Really, I freaking love it. Chicken breast grilled in a cast iron pan. Smother it with bbq sauce. Serve with scalloped potatoes and corn on the cob. Delicious, hearty, and freaking mmmm.

Thanks for the contest!

u/Tellmeyoulikerabbits · 1 pointr/PS3

If you have a monitor that only has 1 HDMI port on it then you can grab This like I did. Great for switching my computer and my ps3 while using the same monitor.

u/ackhuman · 1 pointr/techsupport

You mean like this?

u/emoney23 · 1 pointr/xboxone

Got this one here:

Works like a champ. No issues whatsoever and can't beat the price. Auto switches to whatever gets turned on, comes with remote as well.

u/floflo81 · 1 pointr/wiiu

Here is my diagram:

You can zoom in if you can't read the text.

You can use both the PC and the Wii U with the same screen and the same speakers this way.

The only problem you will encounter with this method is that the screen has only one HDMI plug.
So you will need to do one of 3 things:

  • If you use HDMI for the PC, each time you want to switch between PC and Wii U, you will have to unplug an HDMI cable from the screen and plug the other one
  • Otherwise, you can use an HDMI switch like this one
  • Or ideally, you can use DisplayPort instead of HDMI to connect the PC to the screen. This way the PC and the Wii U can be connected simultaneously. DisplayPort is like a more modern HDMI (also has video+audio), but you need the right cable and the right connector on your graphics card.

    Note that with that setup, for your PC the graphics card will output audio through HDMI instead of the motherboard/audio card. It may require a simple setting change: you may have to set HDMI as the default audio playback peripheral.
u/Mauldrich · 1 pointr/xbmc

Or try a HDMI Splitter with remote for more HDMI ports.

u/MarcoPolo10 · 1 pointr/xboxone

I have my cable box, ps4, and wii u connected to it and it automatically switches to whatever is turn on. My only regret is not getting one with more inputs for my Xbox.

u/DieselWang · 1 pointr/hometheater

Hook up the PC, Xbox, and PS3 to the TV via HDMI. Hook up your soundbar to the TV via optical connection. Disable your TV's internal speakers (this is done through the menu). You're all set then. You'll be using the TV as a switcher and switching between HDMI inputs will all output the sound out the soundbar. If you need additional HDMI inputs, just get an HDMI switch, something like this:

u/SolidBladez · 1 pointr/buildapc

You could get an HDMI switch. What's the model # of your monitor?

u/bbrucesnell · 1 pointr/cordcutters

I've had this one for about a year and a half. What I like about it is that one port is designated as the default port. If no other ports are passing signal, it is selected. When another source starts displaying signal, it switches to the new device.

This is good for devices like the AppleTV that tend to remain powered on. It's set as the default so when my Xbox is turned on, it overrides the AppleTV.

Cheap and effective.

u/Stikki_Lawndart · 1 pointr/battlestations

Not one bit. And it's set up beautifully. I have my xbox and computer in an HDMI Switcher, so when I turn my xbox on it changes my first monitor to Xbox and my second monitor to my computer.

My Mix amp is plugged in USB to my computer and Optically to my Xbox, so when volume is more towards Game it turns up the Xbox volume, turn it towards Voice and it turns up the PC volume instead. So Ill play Spotify while playing, if I want to focus more on the game I'll turn it the other way.