Best electrical equipment according to redditors
We found 12,839 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical equipment. We ranked the 4,230 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 12,839 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical equipment. We ranked the 4,230 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Also if the house is pre-1960s, get this little gizmo and test for grounded outlets. Three-pronged outlets do NOT automatically mean they're grounded. It doesn't necessarily mean you need to rewire the house or anything, but it's something to be aware of.
I've only had to repair an outlet a few times but this method is pretty safe:
Flip the breakers for the outlets in the room (do NOT trust the labels on a breaker box, lazy contractors often fail to label properly), then take an outlet tester and plug it into both outlets on the one you're working on AND a neighboring outlet. If it doesn't light up, you're good to start opening up the outlet.
Triple-check that the wiring is done right when you're finished and cable nuts/clamps fully secure all wires then power back on the breaker. Test again with an outlet tester before plugging in any electronics. IMMEDIATELY flip off the breaker again if the tester does not show the correct led light set.
The important part of doing any home repairs is never assume that something is off, or that there's no juice going to that wire. Check always anyway. 10 seconds of testing saves 10 days in a hospital.
Just got a new safe for xmas, hated the lighting in it so got started on a DIY lighting project. Spent 20 minutes and $24, its pressure sensitive and lights up all compartments.
Edit: The Safe is a Mesa
Hey guys,
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I saw this awesome video by Derek Gilman about an automated curing system he had built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jho0qeTUZnA
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His rig is with 5 gallon gamma lid buckets, and he loads about 2 pounds in each one. The way the system works is you put your dried bud in the buckets, and you hook up an air pump to the buckets, on a timer. The timer I have set is for 15 mins every 24 hours. (The timer kicks on the pump, pushing air through the buckets, and auto shuts off after 15 mins). You install little valve outlets on the container and they exhaust out the old the air when the pump comes on, and then seal back up when it shuts off.
Being a micro grower who grows autos that yield ~100g, at about 179 grams a gallon I would be nowhere close to filling a 5 gallon gamma lid bucket, and even at 2 gallons I'm still a bit short.
So, I went to the store and found 1 gallon airtight food containers and it works! I was able to fit a Seedsman Zkittlez Auto I just got finished drying/trimming and ready for cure.
The system I built is:
- Aquarium Air pump, ideally with a built in manifold so you can hook up multiple containers: (NON AFFILIATE LINKS!) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ILGHAU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Air line https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NYQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Check Valves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKJXZ78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- 3/16" Drill bit
- 1 Gallon airtight food storage container https://www.walmart.com/ip/Better-Homes-Gardens-Flip-Tite-Square-Food-Container-16-Cups/370961661
- Timer with 15 min increments: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I noticed that the pressure was a little too high when I had only one check valve as the outlet and it was causing the lid to pop up, so I added two more. If you are growing photos, you're most likely yielding more than I do with my auto plants, so you'd prolly be able to just use the 2 gallon gamma buckets, which should hold about 1/2-3/4 pound. https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Black-Bucket-Screw-threaded/dp/B018BFY2KY/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=2+gallon+gamma&qid=1574473805&sr=8-5
Naw, just get one of these. Way easier and will tell you about upstream issues.
> And one would think that the installer should test that kind of stuff.
If you had someone come to your house to install a big-screen TV, would you expect them to check the outlets to make sure they were wired correctly?
What I would do if I were you: Go to you local hardware store and buy an outlet tester like this - shouldn't be more than five or six bucks. Plug that sucker in and look at the lights. It will tell you instantly if the outlet is wired correctly or not.
If it isn't, call an electrician to fix that.
Correct. That would be the monitor. For actual control functionality, OP would have to look into wiring the receptacle to a smart switch, like this Z-wave. I was under the impression OP just wanted more of a plug-and-play solution. The Z-wave is more involved and allows remote control, but is more of a "power user" kind of thing.
Tl;dr: I need
chocolatea toner.FTFY.
Seriously: 8 hours to find a bunch of cables going to a patch panel? Go buy this NOW.
Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Switch, No Neutral Required, 250 Watts, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s-AVDbA71VAS2
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-Lighting-P-PKG1W-WH-Assistant/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Then you can have a remote! And if you care, the Lutron Caseta Bridge will allow you to control it with your phone, and it also integrates nicely with Home Assistant, if you want to go that route (look it up!). Otherwise, the dimmer and remote will work by themselves.
P.S. ♥️
You want to know something that drives me nuts?
I had to put in a bunch of wireless switches the other day. Probably around 20 or so. The only way you can buy them is individually packaged, so each time you're buying a 5" x 3" cardboard box that contains a plastic clamshell that contains the product. The mounting plates have to be bought separately in four-packs. This four-pack box contains four individual cardboard boxes, each of which contain paper instructions and the actual wall mounting box.
This is for three bits of plastic that, collectively, can fit in the palms of your hand.
That futurama oreo gag just isn't that funny to me anymore. Now it just makes me sigh.
TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Alexa (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NAVNzbBDA1YT5
Your home may be universally wired incorrectly...
Get one of these things at the hardware store and check: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
These bad boys for every lamp in the apartment. Makes turning on all the lights (in the morning, walking in/out the door, etc) a complete breeze. It's a real game changer.
Also, I velcroed my remotes to the side of my coffee table so I always have them handy.
For anyone interested
My lights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBT3BVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CdHKDbPDRD0JF
My shelf: https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-48-in-W-x-72-in-H-x-18-in-D-Decorative-Wire-Chrome-Heavy-Duty-Shelving-Unit-HD18481302PS-1/203846551?MERCH=REC-_-rv_mobileweb_rr-_-NA-_-203846551-_-N
I also needed an outlet timer since the lights don't have one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FmHKDbGVVCMWT
It sounds like some of the outlets might have a reversed hot/neutral. Get a cheap outlet tester to find out. And a pigtail adapter to test the 2-prong outlets. Fixing it is pretty simple if you are comfortable working with wiring.
I wanted to control my 240v AC unit too, ended up buying this:
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nDbYAbHW5DMFN
I got an extension cord that would work for my AC unit and spliced in the switch. You could splice it into the cord from the AC if you want to.
Worked fantastic last summer.
Occupancy sensor (automatic light switch) in the basement, laundry, and walk-in closets. We got these Lutron models from Amazon for $20. Set them to 1 or 2 minutes for the closets, a little more for the laundry, and whatever works for you for the basement. Not having to reach for the light switch with your hands full is really convenient.
Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.
Here is the
configuration.yamlandui-lovelace.yamlfiles on Github.The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:
I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a
picture-elementscard mostly utilizingimageand itsstate_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever withstyle: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that thestylewas being set on. I would then manually adjust thetopandleftpercentages until I was satisfied. I would then updateui-lovelace.yamlto include the new values and double check them in the browser.For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
Here are a couple videos of it in action:
Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about
A cable toner, something like this.
Going to try to save other sysadmins from this question in the future.
Buy one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1
You clamp the generator onto a wire, and it sends the signal down it. Anytime the probe is near that wire it makes noise. You can basically just run it along the ceiling/wall and follow it from source to destination. This model I linked is actually a little fancy and has an RJ11 plug on it so you don't have to clamp/potentially damage something.
sounds like a power surge got the switch... is it plugged into a quality surge protector? Also, try a plug tester like this to make sure the ports are wired up properly and the ground is working. I've seen this happen a few times, and had it happen personally from a messed up plug. Surge suppression is usually only on the live side of the mains.
Another thing to remember, is that the surge suppression components in power strips do degrade over time, and may not provide proper protection.
Get an outlet tester. If this wasn't a problem before, I suspect somebody did a shitty job wiring up your place. If the wiring is faulty... umm... I'm not sure how to fix it but, technically, it should be your landlord's problem but things might not work that way in Indonesia.
I wouldn't plug in the PC until you've got that figured out unless you're OK with with frying your computer to get in a few more rounds of DOTA.
You want a fluke tone and trace probe. Pos and neg alligators grab the wire, and send a tone down it. The probe part is separate, and seeks the tone like a metal detector. Once found, short the wire and the tone dies to confirm. We use this tool all the time in networking. Double edit; if you have a single conductor wire you can clip the neg lead to a local ground or metal frame and it will send tone.
Edit: analog version-- check local pawnshops for used ones. Theres also a digital version.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0
I prefer the plug tester that actually plugs into the wall because the non-contact ones can be tripped by live wires in the same junction box.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/
I think I got mine at a home improvement store for $5. Obviously it's for standard us outlets only.
Remote operated plug things - turn off your plugged-in things with a simple remote. (This 2-remote 5-plug combination is 48 cents over BUT they have a 1-remote 3-plug version). Total lifesaver.
First thing anyone should buy is Deluxe Audio Strap. Can't stress that enough.
Vive-N-Chill is also really useful. It may seem silly, but it actually works really well. When I use any other headset for active gaming I really miss it.
Hyperskin covers for the controllers are awesome, comfortable, add grip and help with the occasional wall scrape. Though personally I ditched the headset one as I feel like it may trap in heat. Does look cool though. But the controller ones are a must have.
One of my absolute favorite VR accessories: 1" MMA floor tiles. Worth every penny. Way better than any thinner solutions and you can really kneel/roll around on the ground comfortably and stand for hours on it. Can be disassembled for transport and does not slide on carpet. They seem to be holding up to heavy duty long term use so well they should last for years through multiple generations of headsets.
My favorite face cushion for personal use is the stock foam one. Comfortable, breathes, and absorbs moisture and wicks it away. Nice to break out the fancy faux-leather ones for guests and stuff, but the original stock ones are the best for serious game sessions, at least in my opinion. Just hand wash it on occasion.
These guitar hangers are cheap and awesome for hanging controllers from when paired with some 10 foot usb micro cables for charging. Maybe not as cool looking as the special charging stand, but a whole bunch of pairs are great for different VR controllers if you have more than just a pair to deal with.
And, if/when you ever tire of the Base Stations' function to remotely power up/down automatically being fussy, slow or intermittent, then remote power outlets will make you happy. They make the base stations spring to life and sync in a few seconds compared to the slow blue tooth routine and power off when you want them off.
The receptacle may be grounded. Buy a three-prong adapter. It will have a metal grounding tab on the end that can be screwed into the wall plate. Buy a receptacle tester at any hardware store and plug it into the adapter. It will tell you if there is ground or not.
OP this is actually a problem you should get fixed soon. Stop by a hardware store and pick up an inexpensive outlet tester - it looks like a male three prong plug with lights on the other side and a little chart to tell you what they mean
Test your outlets to confirm they're grounded. As your Mac generates EMI inside it relies on the case for grounding - it can build up a low level of voltage you probably won't feel.
The reason you're picking up an AM station is that radio is a form of radiation and your giant aluminum box is getting hit with. Without a ground - it is one giant antenna funneling all sorts of emi radiation into the box. Not good for the of your computer and could pose a risk to you.
If you find it's not grounded, that's not up to code in most places - work with your landlord or building manger to resolve the issue.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Receptacle_tester
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA?pc_redir=1409579983&robot_redir=1
you could always get something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU
lets you know if your outlets are properly grounded. once you find the bad ones, you can work on tieing in new wiring for grounding in rooms that have sensitive electronics you don't want fried.
I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:
Equipment
Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
Setting up your tank
After your tank has cycled
Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
It's not normal and is potentially dangerous. It seems likely you have a grounding issue and such problems have, historically, been fatal to some musicians, particularly guitarists, Keith Relf of the Yardbirds for instance. Modern equipment tends to be a lot safer and electrocution is less likely but it's still a risk. While the voltage you've felt, so far, is harmless it could indicate that you're ungrounded and if a fault were to develop with any of the interconnected equipment stray voltage could be present on the conductive surfaces of your gear and the cables connected to them.
You in the US? Get an electrical outlet tester like one of these and test the wall outlets you use. If the tester shows a fault get an electrician to come and repair it. If the wall outlets test as OK, test the first power strip, then the next, then the next, until you find where the fault is and then dispose of that strip and get a new one.
You might want to travel with a plug tester like this. Would make for an exciting day to find the hot and ground swapped because some idiot didn't know how to hook up a plug properly.
As long as you're not exceeding 2000+ watts in the same room, you'll likely be fine as most circuits in the US have 15-20amp breakers/fuses.
No real danger of a blackout or brown out, the computer will just shut off. You could always pick up a UPS backup if you're worried about that.
If you live in a place that has lightning I would recommend a good surge protector, not just a power strip.
Only possible super rare thing I've seen to worry about with electricity and computers is if you have a computer on one outlet and you connect HDMI or similar to a TV that's plugged into another circuit and if there's an issue with wiring in your house/apt it could burn things out. I use one of these http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1398086820&sr=1-1&keywords=receptacle+tester to test circuits to be sure :P
Sure:
My Lighting setup:
https://bosscontrols.com/product/boss-220-smart-plug/
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Appliance-Direct-Wire-Appliances-12726/dp/B00YTCZZF0/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466964540&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=smart+plug&dpPl=1&dpID=31D9FOxUODL&ref=plSrch
I have a couple, cheep, work great, good app, echo compatible.
To add to this:
Do *NOT* under any circumstances rely on a no-contact tester to tell you that a wire is safe to touch. They are good for helping you make a determination between two wires as described above, but they can and do give false readings in both directions.
The voltage reading off a good multimeter (with contact probes) should be used to be certain that a circuit is indeed turned off. Make sure you get one with a separate current lead socket (usually this means they have 3 holes at the bottom of the meter) this will save you from blowing up your meter if you accidentally switch to current sensing while connected to high voltage (been there, done that, its not pleasant avoid the headache)
There are a wide variety of multimeters available in all price ranges, but here's a very inexpensive one on Amazon that should work OK for this use case. It might not be 100% accurate, but I'm sure it'll be able to tell you if there's 120v or not :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6
Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.
Electrical outlet tester - Use on each outlet in the home to make sure all is working properly and not needing work done. I used Sperry Tester
Test the sinks, toilets and showers. Run both cold water and hot water through each sink/shower and flush the toilets a couple of times.
Ask about pest control, how often, who does it.
How do you contact maintenance for any requests? How quickly can they come out to assist?
Check the windows and make sure they can open, or are securely locked.
Who has keys to your location? Did the last tenant turn in all keys? Can you get the location re-keyed for a small fee?
Hope this helps!
Look into code, don't cut corners and get yourself one of these outlet testers to check your work. Like someone else said, hooking up sub panels and big jobs, have someone come in.
I'm lucky my brother in law is a very professional electrician, I always check my plans with him and I do all the work. He'll come and make the connection at the panel just to be safe, but after watching him I'd feel comfortable doing that.
The best is to get 3 of those.
Warm up your kitchen space with a butcher block table, maybe something reclaimed? Consider moving your desk as its the very first thing you see when you walk through the door. The living room/kitchen is a long space so no matter what your living room furniture will be a focal point. It looks like a nice updated apartment, I think an industrial decor with a splash of bohemian conversation pieces would officially make this place baller. Below are two photos that I think you should marry together.
http://www.renopedia.com.sg/products/blogimg/4801Industrial-home-decor-furniture.jpg
http://www4.pictures.lonny.com/lo/Bohemian+Living+Room+white+sectional+neutral+Ju6Ho_WaJ1xl.jpg
You should find a desk with some character:
http://cdn.homedit.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Rustic-desk.jpg
(and some wire management wouldn't hurt)
You have some space near the entryway beside the cabinet, I like having a table there to place my keys/wallet/phone when I come home.
https://img1.etsystatic.com/015/0/6671391/il_fullxfull.426696237_o5vl.jpg
You need some huge art. If you have a Buddha in the can, you should have one in the living room!
http://myoshka.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/buddha_mural_2.jpg?w=510
I like the natural light, but does it feel like an operating room at night with the lights on? You'll need some lamps:
http://2i.c-b.co/is/image/CB2/GroveFloorLampAVF14/&$web_zoomTrans$&/1406251340/groove-floor-lamp.jpg
http://www.homestreetdesign.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/Standing-lamp-designs-113.jpg
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1907182050/Vintage-Personality-font-b-Table-b-font-Lamps-Water-Pipe-Light-Props-Bedroom-font-b-Bedside.jpg
Pair them up with one of these bad boys so the ladies all think you're a rocket surgeon:
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-ZAP-5LX-Auto-Programmable-Function/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417982915&sr=8-1&keywords=remote+outlet
You need a place to check out the goods:
http://www.favething.com/uploads/images/main-fave-images/mirror_framed_in_large_reclaimed_boards-1.jpg
The bathroom just needs color, consider more vibrant towels and floor mat.
Last but not least, green. Studies show, people with plants are happier. Consider taking advantage of all the natural light with something like this:
http://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/static.brit.co/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/Hawaiian-Umbrella-Bonsai-Tree1.jpg
>7)These: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes sir these will be bought. Good lookin out
I'll link the full order:
I am
not 100%happy with the light strip I got.They are super sensitive to the power draw and flickers time to time(maybe it's the power adapter =/). Though, it's cheap and does its job pretty well![EDIT] correcting the led power connect as opinted out by /u/BishoujoReview
[EDIT] flickering was due to an old extension cord. I plugged the power adapter directly to the wall outlet and that solved the problem.
3x Northern Lights From Sensi Seeds
1x [Mars Hyrdo] (https://www.amazon.de/MARS-HYDRO-Wachsen-Vollspektrum-Pflanze/dp/B078Y74D67/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546344239&sr=8-1&keywords=mars%2Bhydro%2B600w%2Bled&th=1)
Pulling 217W from the wall, honestly cant complain with the results so far.
I would have went with a QB if I knew about them earlier on, will switch it out once this one runs out I think.
Avg Temp is 24 degrees or 75,2 fahrenheit - The light is super cool and has two massive fans above it. This entire grow, the temperature was never an issue.
1 x Secret Jardin Hydro Shoot 80 R2.00 80x80x160 cm - Honestly a bit too small for 3 plants, will be running 2 next time around.
2 x Smart Plug - I got these from another site, at a higher price but they have been great. They allow me to see my exact wattage from the wall, my usages over 24hours/7days/1month. You can build in a schedule for your light and intake fan - that's why I got 2. Its all via an app, which has a kill switch built in so if you need to turn the setup off in seconds, you can do that remotely.
1 x AC Infinity Intake Fan + Carbon Filter
1x AC Infinity Multifan
1 x C02 Bag
3 x 5 Gallon Smart Pots (20L)
Nutrients
I have honestly no idea what I'm doing - I can provide an entire list of everything I ended up using if you want :)
Dude, the whole fucking point of a Raspberry Pi is to LEARN things about how computers work.
There are plenty of cheap multimeters out there. Here's a cheap DMM on Amazon for ten bucks. I have seen cheaper ones at Harbor Freight and on sites like Banggood.
A DMM is only a single use item if you have zero intention of LEARNING things, which from your bitching here is a serious possibility. I completely agree with /u/WindWalkerWhoosh that you're acting incredibly entitled, and now over-the-top rude with your ingratitude.
If you don't want to LEARN about computing, you just want other internet strangers to wave their magic wands and fix something with zero diagnostic data, then go buy another Raspberry Pi and get lost.
Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.
A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):
Hakko wire cutter
Helping hand
Hemostat / Forceps
Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester
GE switches with add-ons can be 3+ way and dimmable. The 'addons' inherit the master switch's abilities.
Z wave, zigbee, or wifi versions all available.
Product page: GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7hCkDbEVYC4R9
Here is my current (year-round) setup! I moved into a new apartment with only north and west facing windows, and nothing was getting enough light. So recently I upgraded my setup.
I have the lights on for about 12 hours a day.
I used to have a clamp lamp with CFL, and that worked for a bit, but I was trying to squeeze too many plants under it so they started to get etiolated. In comparison, these lights are amazing. You can see that some of the plants were etiolated but are now growing compactly!
This ballast makes cheap LED strips integrate into your Hue setup. It works perfectly with mine. Check the Amazon comments for details. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Works now.
Plug your kettle into a smart outlet.
"Alexa: Turn on Kettle."
People right now are using smart outlets such as the TP-Link Smart Plug or the WeMo Switch Smart Plug to control lamps, electric fans, Christmas trees, aquariums, etc.
GFCI Outlet Testers
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Power-Gear-GFCI-Tester-50957/206212330
https://www.amazon.com/all-sun-EM9807-GFCI-Outlet-Tester/dp/B01ID5V05C/
https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-32907.html
https://www.walmart.com/ip/GB-Gardner-Bender-GFI6302-GFCI-Outlet-Tester/19301304
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sperry-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-GFI6302/301961462
https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wiring-accessories/testers/sperry-trade-instruments-gfci-outlet-tester/p-1444431011517-c-6452.htm
Well I was referring to one of these. Besides if you could plug OP's "finder" into the socket for a stove/drier you have other issues. Those should be using a 3 or 4-prong 240V outlet (in the USA anyhow).
the EVSE is detecting that the outlet is not wired as it expects. Do you have an outlet tester? Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU
And just for reference, this is one such device: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/
> Even if you have polarized plugs, like in the US, you can't even be sure that the electricians wired the outlet the right way around.
Don't trust, test.
Grab one of these and check outlets around your house.
Since this is apparently affecting more than one device you should first check the outlet. Get one of these and test that the outlet is properly wired. It sounds like there may be voltage present on your ground (that would be bad). Or if you aren't comforatble testing yourself hire an electrician. This is potentially dangerous.
You can buy a little device very cheaply to tell you if three-prong outlets are grounded. If they're probably not even grounded the lazy way (to the outlet box) and simply have a wire missing, you could repair this yourself for <$10.
Obviously two-prong outlets will not be grounded. That's a convenience issue, but not a safety issue. The lack of GFI outlets in the kitchen (or bath, or anywhere near water) could be a safety issue, and that would be the one thing I think it'd be reasonable to ask the landlord to do. GFI outlets are ~$10 apiece and those can safely be grounded to their box as well.
I think you might need an electrician. To me, it sounds like something is shorting the coax with the electrical outlet. You indicated when he tugged on the coax, a breaker tripped.
Right there, that set off flags as I was reading it. The problem may not be in the outlet right next to where he was working, but somewhere up the line from there.
I would start with a voltage tester like this
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=lp_14244481_1_12?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487627980&amp;sr=1-12
and go from there.
If the problem is electrical, comcast wont touch it (even if they caused it, but good luck proving that).
I have an Ecobee4 thermostat (although Alexa doesn’t work as well for me as I hoped) w/ Ecobee remote sensors mounted in every room. Not only is this great for managing the temp in the house overall, but now I can include temp changes in my automations and geo-fencing.
In addition, although I find them a bit slow to respond when using them as room entry motion sensors, the Ecobee remote sensors are great for automatically turning off the lights when a room is no longer occupied.
I also recently added some non-HomeKit “smarter” switches in my bathroom and laundry room. In the laundry room, I put a simple Lutron (not Caseta) motion sensor switch to auto turn the light on/off when someone comes/goes from the laundry room. Works fantastically, it’s simple, and not too expensive.
In my bathroom, I added three new Lutron (not Caseta) switches.
The first two of those switches are far more programmable than I thought... reading the instructions really paid off! :)
The Lutron Claro wall plates are really great as well. They are very clean, simple, and modern looking... and their 2-part design makes it really easy to adjust all your switches for a precision installation (i.e. flush and straight).
In my bedroom, my bedside lamps are controlled by 1 Lutron Caseta lamp dimmer w/ remote. I use the same style Caseta lamp dimmer for a few other standalone lamps... and even used one to automate (just on/off) my outside LED holiday lights last winter (the dimmability of which was fantastic, as they are normally way too bright).
In conclusion, before spending a bunch of money, my advice would be to think carefully about how you/others use certain rooms and if a motion detection switch would suffice or if a more complex automation control is needed. Also... do the math. As others have pointed out, one alternative may be way more cost effective over another when you factor in the number of bulbs and/or switches involved.
One last thing... I am renting a room to a guy who's on a totally different schedule than me and as such, I never knew if he was in his room sleeping or out of the house elsewhere. So... since I had previously added him to my HomeKit household... I use a combination of geofencing with his phone, and the Ecobee motion sensor in his room, to switch on/off a particular lamp when he comes & goes. That way... it's easy for me to know if I need to be quiet, or if I can rock out with my socks out.
*EDIT: Added a bunch of links and more...
and if you dont have a smart tv, you can get one of these and plug your tv into it (though it might not be a good idea to pull the plug on your tv all the time)
To mention some other homebrewing supplies and tools that haven't come up here:
It wasn't the fuse, it was a short somewhere else. Removing the fuse just made it so that no electricity went through that circuit, therefore the battery wouldn't get drained. It is like turning a breaker off in your house - a whole bunch of systems will suddenly not be getting any electricity.
&#x200B;
The idea is to figure out "Is power being drained out of the battery when nothing is happening?" I tested it with a very typical multimeter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISAMUA6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
I detached one side of the car battery terminals. My friend held the multimeter leads, one multimeter lead on the battery and the other on the loose wire that would normally attach to the battery terminal. When the element was off, about 0.2 amps registered as being used on the multimeter, meaning that it was using power when nothing should be happening.
There are two sets of fuses, one under the steering wheel by the pedals and one under the hood. There is a fuse puller inside one of the fuse boxes. Look in your car manual and it will show you a diagram of your fuses. While he watched the multimeter, I would detach fuses one-by-one. I would pull a fuse, yell "OUT" and he would yell "NO" if the amperage usage did not change after the fuse was pulled. Eventually I pulled as fuse called "Back Up" in the fuse diagram and that 0.2 amps went down to 0. That was our problem circuit. Luckily for me that circuit has things that are not necessary on it, so I just left the fuse out.
Amazon has GE Z-wave 14291 Switches for $29.33
https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/
Just buy an RF based outlet and be done.
here you go
or supposedly this bluetooth plug
You'll need one dimmer switch, and a second "slave" switch. GE has a good pair [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-45613-Wireless-Lighting-Three-Way/dp/B0013V58K2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487104987&amp;sr=1-6&amp;keywords=GE+zwave+switch).
Or [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Dimmer-Z-Wave-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487104987&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=GE+zwave+switch) and [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487105148&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ge+zwave+switch+add+on) separately.
Alexa/Google Home are compatible with the bridge, not the bulbs, meaning any bulb that works with the bridge works with them. When Ikea advertises compatibility they mean for their bridge, so don't use that as a guide.
Hue bulbs are built on a standard called ZigBee Light Link (ZLL), so are the Ikea bulbs. As long as you buy bulbs that faithfully implement the standard you should be okay (Ikea bulbs might need a firmware update from their bridge to do this). If the bulb supports dimming/color temperature via ZLL then the Hue Bridge will be able to control them, and by extension Google Home.
All this said, if you're doing your whole house, have you considered smarthome light switches? Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MUCZA1C/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510413289&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=zwave+dimmer .
They work just like a normal light switch you can press to turn on/off/dim but add a SmartThings/Wink hub and you can control them via Google Home/Alexa and have all the automated routines/etc you get via Hue. For multi-bulb fixtures I use those switches, plus Philips Warm Glow LED bulbs, which change colour temperature as they dim. The result is full smart home control, good colour temperatures, regular wall switches so I don't have to use my voice all the time, and I can buy cheap non-smart bulbs.
Also, be aware that one Hue bridge is limited to 50 bulbs and 7 dimmer switches. That's the other reason I went for wall switches, I would need multiple bridges and then I couldn't have one button to turn off the whole house.
Those are the smart sensors, They control the 3 exhaust fans per temp readings. They also act as motion sensors and turn the lights on in the room when I walk in. The white boxes on the right wall are 240v smart switches that control power on/off from my phone manually or triggered by scene i.e. temp to high, or ping failure reboot rig. Energy monitor installed inside breaker box also smart home (Z-Wave). All is controlled by a Vera smart home controller. Links below.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0151Z8ZQY?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XD8WZX6?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX9P89Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519912082&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=vera+plus+controller&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31jWnlwJITL&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ZU69DU?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
You could go even simpler by plugging your fish tank pump into a programmable electric timer like this one (Amazon, $13). You won't have the ability to water remotely, but how often do you need to water your trees outside of a regular watering schedule?
If you’re sure 15 minute cycles are good, then mechanical timers work great and are super easy to program. I’ve used these in the past:
Century 24 Hour Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cqeYzb0HS34MQ
However, except price, digital timers are pretty much better in every way. I once had an issue where 15 minutes was too long for an ebb and flow I built. Pump was too strong, overflow didn’t drain fast enough. I switched to digital to do a shorter interval and the problem was mostly fixed. Not exactly a common scenario, but for a couple bucks extra, the convenience of digital can certainly be worth it.
VIVOSUN 48"x24"x60" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Observation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 2'x4' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dx13BbGGT8164
VIPARSPECTRA Reflector-Series 300W LED Grow Light Full Spectrum for Indoor Plants Veg and Flower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hz13BbPVVN2TK
This light is good for 2 plants but you’ll eventually want to add a second for your tent. You definitely can’t fill the tent with just this light, but it’ll get you started.
iPower 2-Pack 1/8 Inch 8-Feet Long Adjustable Heavy Duty Rope Clip Hanger, Reinforced Metal Internal Gears,150lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018WIOEDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wA13Bb58ZJ5GD
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XA13Bb9NQJDG1
Comfort Zone CZ6C 6-Inch 2-Speed Clip-On Fan (White, 2 Fans) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLUZSPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.E13Bb05JK7B1
247Garden 5-Pack 3 Gallon Grow Bags/Aeration Fabric Pots w/Handles (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013JM3JAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VG13Bb7MGJS2R
https://www.oregonsonly.com/samples/
These are great nutrients and basically foolproof. This free sample kit will get you through 4 plants full grows. I love these nutrients and even now use them in a reservoir (which people claim you can’t do but works great).
Dr.meter 0.1pH PH002 High Accuracy pH Meter/pH Pen Tester with ATC LCD 0-14 pH Measurement Range (PH002 pH Meter for Water) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PU0W35K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fI13BbNRES1BK
That will get you started on your first grow or two. I recommend auto blue mystic from nirvana for your first run. They are very low smell while growing so you can get by without a carbon filter. They’re autos so you can leave the light on 24/7, and they finish fast. Also turns out a great finished product.
https://www.nirvanashop.com/marijuana-seeds/815-blue-mystic-autoflower.html
Less than $40 for 5 seeds and very discrete shipping.
When you have a bit more $ you can add on additional items. Eventually you’ll want to upgrade to PFD sun boards or quantum boards, but you’ll probably want to get a fan and filter first:
6" Inline Fan - 395 CFM Exhaust Duct Fan, Built-In Speed Controller, ETL Listed, Pre-Wired 6 FT Grounded Cord - Great Use In Grow Tent With Carbon Filters, Light Fixtures, Intake. Fits 6 Inch Ducts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0D0UEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TM13Bb5170NC1
Activated Charcoal Carbon Filter 6" x 16", Up to 400 CFM, Premium Grow Tent Odor Scrubber, 1.8" Extra Thick Layer of Top Grade Activated Australian Virgin Charcoal-Great for Hydroponics and Growing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VN4I5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qN13BbEH9AG9W
Maybe you can upgrade to a 2x4 tray with reservoir so you can automate feeding.
If you don’t want autoflowers you can just do 12/12 from seed for faster harvest. https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/blog-how-to-grow-cannabis-from-seed-under-12-12-lighting-n330
But I really recommend doing the auto blue mystic for your first round or two.
Most recipes will probably be fine with an additional 2-4 hours. Crock pot recipes aren't very fussy. But that counts more for beef than chicken, because chicken dries out easier. A couple tips:
For chicken, use thighs instead of breasts. The thighs have more fat and will keep from drying out longer. And yes, chicken can still overcook and become dry while in a sauce. It's just less noticeable.
Beef will probably work great it's a bit more forgiving than chicken.
One other solution many people here do is to buy a timer you plug your crock pot into like this. That way, you can program it to turn on 4 hours after you leave. And especially if you're using frozen dump recipes this is a great solution.
Or I'm sure there's programmable crock pots you can buy to skip the plug timer.
Two things:
One. That light is made for a refugium. A lot of people will say that it's "harsh" or "cold" - that's because it's not really made for humans to look at - it's not a "display light". It'll work just fine for growing plants (it'll work really well, actually), but it will lack a lot of the "warmer" colors that look good to human eyes. Finnex makes a few others that are comparable: Plantet+ 24/7 (adjustable colors/remote/timer), Ray (bright white light), Ray 2 (very powerful white light).
Ultimately the light you choose will depend on a few factors. What kinds of plants will you grow? How deep is the aquarium (more powerful lights are needed for deeper water columns)? Do you mind if the light is "harsh"?
Of those considerations, I'd put the most weight on the tank dimensions and the plant specifications. Trying to push light through 24 inches of water for a carpeting plant? You'll want a Ray 2. Have an 8-inch deep tank that you want to grow some swords in? Don't waste your money on anything fancy.
----
Two. That CO2 kit is a money pit and here's why:
So let's say you spend 25 bucks on the kit plus 15 bucks for some cartridges. That's an upfront of 40 dollars with a 15 dollars per month in perpetuity. That means that one year of this kit will cost you $220.
Instead you could go for this paintball setup for the same price:
That build adds up to $205, will be WAY less work in the long run, much more stable, and simply easier to run. Also if you ever get sick of it and want your money back - it'll retain a lot of it's value. You could probably re-sell that whole set for 170-ish used. Also, that tank will last you a good few months before needing to be refilled.
CO2 can really help your tank flourish, but it takes a considerable buy-in. Go all the way or go home. Half-assing it to save money on sub-par equipment will just cause you headaches and a lot more money in the long run. I spent about 250 on my setup two years ago and haven't had to spend a PENNY on it since.
----
PS: /u/Elhazar, are you really gonna go around using the little 2 in "CO₂" and pretend like it's nothing? Well aren't you fancy!
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499072073&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=water+solenoid+110v
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499072056&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=timer
+some hoses / tubes / enclosure for your electronics and a few hours of your time.
you should be able to construct a nice system for 50-100 dollar
I've not tried this myself but I think you can use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/
I am in the process of installing the LED strips and controllers below. Tested end to end setup last night and they work as expected. RGB+WW. No surprises. Also included the matching channels with diffusers.
Hope this helps!
LEDENET RGBWW LED Strip 4 Colors... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VIKAWWC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Wireless electronic ballast... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
LED Aluminum Channel Wide 10-Pack... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDV1RH9?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
You can find ZigBee controllers that you can sync with the Philips Hue bridge like this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ
Been using this with 10m of led strip, it shows up in the hue app so you can make scenes with other lights and can control it from Google or Alexa.
I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.
As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website
The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.
I use this dimmer and the matching switches:
Leviton Dimmer
I've also heard good things about the GE dimmer:
GE Dimmer
I'd say it really comes down to personal taste in the switch appearance between those.
ac adaptor
right angle connectors
LED strips
LED strip lights are a great and cheap way to light up a mirror! This is a picture of my current vanity setup: http://imgur.com/HODyWkh
The whole setup should run you under $25 on amazon:
http://smile.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Non-waterproof-Lighting/dp/B00HSF65MC?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
http://smile.amazon.com/HitLights-Light-Connector-Extension-Single/dp/B00L1MFRY0?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 (click the '10-pk gapless connectors' on that link)
http://smile.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
lottery tickets, remote control plugs, DropStop seat gap filler, glass tupperware set, squatty potty, Code Names (or any board game), Yeti colster, hydroflask bottle, packit freezable cooler, a set ofoutdoor globe lights, gift wrap organizer
-I followed BRUH Automation's tutorial to set this up. I immediately reprogrammed the outlets to custom codes. Home Assistant now has sole control over the outlets and I can re purpose the remote to be used for other commands
-I currently use the remotes to control automations within HomeAssistant. When I push a button on the remote, it is received by the 433mhz rx that is connected to a NodeMCU. The NodeMCU takes the signal received and published the rf code to an MQTT topic. Home assistant is subscribed to that topic. I look for the payload of each published topic and if it matches the button I pressed it will run an automation.
-These broadcast a rf signal that is also received in the same fashion as the Etekcity Remotes do. Then published via MQTT from the NodeMCU.
-I am currently using 2 white bulbs, 1 bloom, and 1 colored bulb. They are spread out across multiple rooms. I absolutely love the control you have with this product!
-The NodeMCU is subscribed to a topic that Home Assistant will published to when I tell it to trigger. This is currently in use to turn on the TV, Soundbar, and tower fan via Alexa. "Alexa, Turn on the tv" - runs a script in HA to publish to a MQTT topic. NodeMCU grabs the payload, my code determines the device, and blasts the signal - turning the TV on/off
-The TV remote has many useless buttons on it. I use these to also send commands to Home Assistant. For instance, I push button '1' on the remote. The NodeMCU processes the value received, publishes it via MQTT, Home Assistant looks at that payload and runs the corresponding automation - turning on the lamp in the living room.
-I currently use this with the emulated hue component. It works great for what I currently want it to do!
This with this and this will do what you are doing without the soldering iron.
I've got a fake wemo device defined, that triggers the broadlink to send RF or IR commands to any compatible device.
This, these, and these work really well for us.
I have my entire vive setup (both base stations and link box) connected to a remote outlet I bought on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504725565&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=remote+outlet
I turn them on with a press of a button only when I use my vive. It works great! If you can, I recommend doing this so the stations and headset aren't always getting power.
Depending on where you land on the spectrum of make something from scratch -> just buy something, this might be applicable:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQELHBS/
There are a number of different brands and designs available too
All you have to do is plug in your appliance into one of these and set up one of the buttons on the remote to control it. You can control up to 5 things with one remote and it uses RF not infrared so you don't have to point it in any particular direction.
I use them quite a bit. You can go beyond the 5 device remote control if you're willing to get your hands dirty a bit. The protocol used in the communication is very straightforward and you can make your own RF remote that can send a more diverse set of signals that will let you control even more devices. I've taken if even further by having my custom remote connect to the home WiFi and now I can trigger the outlets from my phone, it's pretty handy!
I've had this one with me on projects for a few years now and it's worked pretty decent for the price. No complaints.
Not sure on /u/Steammonkey restock times, you can always pm him. There are other vendors who carry it (shouldn't be hard to find) as well.
[This is my multimeter] (http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA), I'm sure many are similarly laid out. (I had this before I started building; not sure if there's a "recommended" multimeter out there.) You can see the little "OHM" on the dial, set it there :) The battery voltage meter settings on the side are under "battery load test", you put the pos to the pos end of your batt, neg to neg :) There are some youtube videos specifically for multimeters + vaping that are helpful and will also show you where to position the leads for checking ohms, etc. On the vids, pay attention to how to check your meter's internal resistance, esp. with lower ohm builds. Be sure to buy a digital multimeter, not the analog kind w/ the bouncy arm for readouts.
I use Panasonic CGR18650s, AW 18490s, and MNKEs mainly for vaping so I don't know those (I had to search for mine, not printed on batts most of the time); it may be easier to search for the "c" rating of your battery so you can calculate its amp limits. (Again, sm's monkey u has a nice walkthru; it's not hard, just math.) Off the bat I'd say you likely don't want to use your "mystery" blue batt unless you can verify mfr/c rating... most batts packaged with kits are okay for vv/vw devices, not really super for mechs esp. when you're cloud chasing/low ohms. Is the ncr panny protected? (I don't know.) You don't want to use protected batts.
The 2c for safety fuse ... is a nice idea, but I think it has a 8 or 10 watt limit? (Don't quote me, I'm pulling numbers from you-know-where.) It'll be tripped pretty fast with low ohms... I don't think you can use them effectively with anything over 1.5 ohms or so. They make resettable ones (along w/ ones that are one time use, and that would stink), but again, they'll just stop your batt from firing when you want it to put out the watts you'll be pulling w/ lower ohms.
Honestly, I'd start high-ish and work your way down. Totally honest again, I'm kind of loving higher ohm (1.5-2.0) on my vv device (Provari), using one right now as I type. You can push much higher volts with the amplification of vv than you can reach with mechs, won't come near amp limits (you'll hit your device's amp limit before your battery's), and will still get a super vape. I have [a post on some higher (than sub) ohm builds + vv here] (http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/1g9c87/fun_with_contact_coils_higher_ohm_rbas_and/) to give you an idea of what I mean. Not saying don't go mech, I'm running 0.8 right now on my GV Sentinel and it's super, but ... I'm a ninny, "true" cloud chasing/sub 0.5 ohms freak me the f out ;) and some people have written off vv devices + RBAs when they really shouldn't. It may be harder to build/test on a PWM (pbusardo has a vid if you don't know about PWM) vv device, but firing is lovely once you get it on point :)
Happy reading, watching, building :)
You're on the right track with pulling everything into a patch panel. If it were me, I would look at hiring a low voltage firm to actually do the work, including the labeling and testing of all the drops. If there is a good service loop for those existing cable runs you can probably re-use them.
I would look at getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Enclosure-Switch-Depth-SRW6U/dp/B003K1NFY4 and have your network equipment and patch panel all in the enclosure.
If you end up tracing/labeling yourself, you can accomplish this with a toner. Something like this would work to assist: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510866752&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=fluke+network+toner&amp;psc=1
Simply connect the probe at the drop and tone out the cable at the closet, then label the drop and cable (ideally the cable will be run into a patch panel though) - Much easier as a 2 man job to avoid having to run back and forth a bunch. Either way, I still recommend hiring a cabling company, they'll do it quicker and better than you probably can, and you may avoid connectivity issues down the road due to bad punchdowns.
The location of the power supply doesn't have anything to do with it, the power supply still takes in 120V AC Power and converts it to 12V DC power. When you have a ground fault that circuit will feed back through the line in an attempt to get to earth. I would highly recommend checking your outlet/surge protector with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/
If your outlet is still good, I would return the printer if you can.
It was pretty common in homes of a certain era to install a GFCI outlet and then daisy-chain a bunch of outlets, even in an entirely different room, off that one GFCI outlet.
It might not be obvious how the circuit is run, you can pick up a cheap test tool at the hardware store with a GFCI-test button on it, that will trigger the GFCI in the chain, if one exists.
Get him one of these for his birthday:
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU
Possibility of outlet wired wrong. Test your outlets with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503875873&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Sperry+Instruments+GFI6302+GFCI
They sell GFCI testers which will reliably trip the breaker without causing damage (assuming the wiring is done somewhat properly). It wouldn't break anything, but would disable the outlet and would bug the neighbor. Here's the one I have https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
>a modern house with current wiring would also experience overheating
This issue was not present at our previous residence.
>How do you know they are not grounded?
I plugged one of these into the outlets, and it reports open ground.
> I've come to realize that the whole venue isnt properly grounded aftering dealing with this hiss/hum from all the mains.
You have actually tested the grounding right? You're not just making an assumption? These things cost like $10. http://amzn.com/B000RUL2UU
It's possible, but if that's the case then your house is wired seriously, seriously wrong. I doubt that you'd notice it with a phone charger.
When I moved into a house a couple decades ago it was wired very very poorly. Ground was hooked up on hot wires, polarity was reversed, ground was left dangling, you name it. The previous owner fancied himself a handyman and he really, really wasn't.
If you have reason to suspect that you have wiring problems then it's easy to check. Most big hardware stores sell a device like this which will automatically detect if your outlets are wired correctly when plugged in. They're only a few bucks which is likely cheaper than whatever device a faulty outlet might destroy.
If your phone seems to be taking odd amounts of time to charge first make sure that you're using the same charger in each (some chargers put out more power than others) and if you are then try a more scientific test (same software load, same amount of screen on-time, same start and end battery percentage). It's quite likely that it's just in your head, but the only way to be sure is to do some science!
It's overkill until the lack of having one bricks your PC power supply (or worse). I've had APC units for over thirteen years now. I use their surge bars for equipment that won't be bothered by a sudden drop, and a couple UPS units for everything else, including a front projector. You want to talk about dire consequences with a blackout, the projector bulb can pop without the cool-down phase. That's ~$350 a bulb.
Electronics aren't just sensitive to surge, line noise and under-voltage can also damage them. PC power supplies can regulate voltage to an extent, but I'd rather have something else step in when electricity gets funky. I remember one voltage drop caused half of my power adapters in the house to die. That was a good day for the scalpers at radio-shack.
APC has given me nothing but good experiences. One of the UPS units was toasted by a powerful surge--I used to live in tornado alley, we had storms that exceeded 600 lightning strikes an hour. It took them about a week (total turnaround) to replace it under warranty. They even offered to replace my really old UPS unit with a brand new one for cheap. Now I have a fast-reacting 900 joules capacity single-plug surge protector on the main UPS as a backup to the backup. Hey, it was ten bucks, why not?
Another thing I do is test the outlets with one of these every time I move to a new location. I've encountered enough bad wiring to pick up a healthy paranoia. :)
Qbox, cable checker, XLR barrels [F-F,M-M,Phase reverse, -20&-50db pads, ground lift, ISO barrel], AC Wiring Tester, XLR Y's, 1/4 male to XLR-F and M, 1/8" to rca/xlr/1/4, NL4&NL8 barrels. Batteries, and more batteries.
Those seem to be my essentials, and get used the most. Probably forgetting something.
USB ports for friends who come over and want to charge their phones: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IAZIU5Y?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Timer for the shower fan so you don't always leave it on: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007BJULYS?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00
Motion activated lights everywhere, esp the closets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00
Edit: formatting
Since you specifically mention Z-wave, I'm going to assume you will be using a hub. I know that at least with Wink, you can set a robot to turn on/off the lamp along with the main switch.
If you want these to be able to function independently, from the same switch, it would have to be a HomeSeer as they are the only manufacturer that does this (and they own the patent on that technology (AFAIK)
Other options include:
Wink Relay - (although it's probably more than a HomeSeer switch) you would at least get a cool display.. and 2 "smart buttons" that you can program to control any shortcut that you wanted... and also an intercom if you installed a second one.
Echo/Dot/Google Home + an external smart plug - TP Link will pair with either of those without requiring an additional hub. The lamp would be voice controlled.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511199240&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=tp-link+smart+plug
EDIT
You could also replace the bulbs in the lamp with zigbee bulbs - Either paired directly to a hub, Hue - or the Echo Plus.
At the moment, even the TP-Link Smart Plug is $25 on Amazon. That's a great deal. I have a couple myself and have never had any issues.
EDIT: £24 on UK Amazon also, by the way.
I like the combination of a wifi switch:
TP-LINK Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere (HS100), Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NCwmyb931C8ER
with a remote camera:
D-Link Day & Night Wi-Fi Camera with Remote Viewing (DCS-932L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P8K24W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3EwmybF52B1TJ
Then with your phone you can water... or set a schedule.
Alternative, the TP-Link Switch is compatible with Home/Assistant, as are their Plugs and LED Bulbs. Note that there is no IFTTT support as of yet.
I have two Smart Bulbs and a Mini Plug in my living room right now. App-wise, they're controlled with Kasa on my phone and a tablet. I can turn on/off, set schedules, dim (except Plug), etc... and do everything but schedules with my Google Home.
The Switch is part of the same family of products, same core functionality across the board.
Not sure how 2 Switches controlling the same lights would work...
but might be worth a shot.(edit: see posts below)I can say, "Hey Google, turn off the lights.", or call out a specific lamp. The Plug is treated separate (attached to bias lighting behind my TV). It doesn't trigger on "lights" calls. I wonder if Switches are yet another category.
With the possibility of IFTTT support, I hope to get movie/tv show time going with a single command, which would dim/kill the Bulbs and kick on the Plug.
Aside from the above, I have my Bulbs set to turn on when I get up for work weekdays. I'm going to get another, color changing one for my bedside, put that on a circadian schedule (option in Kasa).
My venture in to this started off with a Belkin WeMo Mini, but it would not connect to my hidden network (should not be the case with latest fw). My case went all the way to an engineer but after testing a TP-Link Smart Plug, which worked flawlessly and imo, had a much easier setup, I tried the bulbs and now I'm all in with them. I returned my Belkin products but was able to discuss my issues with an engineer we had a solid conversation. Kudos to them.
Hope some of this helps!
Get this, I promise you’ll never be sorry. And to answer your question, bike batteries do act like car batteries in that if you totally kill it, it may need to be replaced. Here’s the tender. Battery Tender (022-0186G-DL-WH) 12V 5 Amp Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDFPN1O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_sBECRHYeaVDUm
Get a multimeter like this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_tai_c_VZPFDbGK9FQ5V
And here’s a good write up about testing your bikes electrical system. https://www.louis.eu/rund-ums-motorrad/schraubertipps/elektronik
Replace the timer switch with a Z-Wave switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R
Then you can set up a timer in the Smart Lighting app so that whenever that switch if physically pressed, it will stay on for a certain amount of time.
Set up a sensor that monitors humidity like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZOOZ-Z-Wave-Sensor-Temperature-Humidity/dp/B01AKSO80O
You'll also create a separate automation that activates the fan when that sensor reads above a certain humidity, and turns off when the humidity drops back down. That one is a little more complicated to setup, but not impossible.
$29.95 TP-Link Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKy3xbNHF58GX
I second the TP Link products. No hub required. Here's their switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_BrnjzbA8ZYP23
Install an automatic toilet flusher and also a smart light switch controlling the lights in your washroom. You could program your light to blink on and off once a day which will trigger the toilets photo sensor to automatically flush. You might have to find an automatic flusher with an adjustable sensor. I would set it to most sensitive for this configuration.
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https://www.amazon.ca/Touchless-Dual-Flush-Converter-Replacement-TECHO/dp/B01DO7ABHW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=automatic+toilet+flush&qid=1573580908&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTTRITVgwNEJBR0tJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDMxNzY5M0IySDdaUjhUTzFXVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjEwMDUzMksyNDgwQkFQTEZMWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
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https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=smart+switch&qid=1573581759&sr=8-5
As far as I know there's no smart bulb that hits anywhere near 1500 lumens. I'd recommend keeping her current bulbs (or picking up some 1500 lm/5000k LED bulbs) and getting smart switches/dimmers.
So you would realistically do smart switches instead of having smart bulbs. The only reason I would see to use smart bulbs is because you don't own the property or because you want the ability to change colors of a color lightbulb.
> Do smart switches always keep the smart bulbs powered?
It depends on what you mean by smart switches. You would realistically just use a smart switch like this. The light switch itself would always have power no matter if you turn the light on or off (unless you kill the breaker), so you could control it no matter the state of the light.
Your best bet if you want to continue using the smart bulbs, and not smart switches, is by buying the Philips Hue Dimmer switches. You would still need the power for the light to be on (meaning don't touch it/block it off if needed). They would still be at the mercy of people using the light switch itself.
But, unless you rent or need color control, it doesn't make sense to keep dropping money on this path.
Good morning /u/EFaden and congrats on the new house!
I'm not sure what HUB you have but there are a couple options if you want to keep the standard in-wall switch, but use scenes to automate things.
Disclaimer: I'm associated with Inovelli, so please keep that in mind. However, I'll lay out all the options that I know of since the scene switches are a passion of mine since they can do so much
On that note, there's a few brands that I'm aware of that have the scene functionality built into a normal in-wall switch and they are: GE, ZWP, HomeSeer, and ourselves.
GE, I believe has a double tap feature in their new Z-Wave Plus switches, but I just have their old ones in my house (which have been great) so I can't confirm, but I've seen posts about it.
HomeSeer was actually one of the first, if not the first companies to come out with this and I personally have one of their switches in my house as well and it's been rock solid. You can add up to I believe 10 scenes to it by single/double/triple/4x/5x tapping the switch (top and bottom). There's a specific device handler for it if you're on SmartThings.
ZWP, I don't really know much about, I just saw they had a scene switch too.
As for Inovelli, we're really proud of the work our guys put into the firmware this time and I'll highlight some of the features below:
As I said above, not sure what HUB you have, but we wrote device handlers for SmartThings and Drivers for Hubitat, but if you don't have those, the settings above can all be done via parameters (except for the dimming based on time of day, let me check with our VP of Tech)
Anyway, I hope that helped a bit. You can't go wrong with any of those brands. They're all unique in their own way and if you're thinking about Z-Wave, then they are some very reputable brands.
Have a great day and if you have any questions, feel free to reach out!
Eric
Founder | Inovelli
HomeSeer: (they have quite a few, so just type in, "HomeSeer Z-Wave Plus Switch" and they should all come up. I'm going to put the couple I know work with ST)
ZWP:
Inovelli
You need a tone and probe kit, like this one, or this one. You can't use it on a live circuit, and some cheap ones like this are not as sensitive as pro-versions, but you can use it to find wires and cables behind drywall.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0
Have this, works great.
If you go that far, I'd reccomend getting something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519316688&amp;sr=8-3
It will show problems that you might miss if you are just plugging something in, and it's a good idea to test GFCI too.
No idea about the cost, but if you have a level of confidence and have some idea what you're doing, you could pop the cover off that electric panel and see what type of wires run into the circuit breakers and what they feed. If modern wires run into breaker #1, and you turn that off and the wall fixtures turn off.. well there you go.
K&T should be easier to spot inside the box, no ground, probably dusty, and wrapped in cloth. Mapping the breakers, figuring out what controls what room/wall/fixture is a good idea. Flip them off one at a time and have someone upstairs plugging something in an checking them..
Also, I highly recommend one of these guys to quikcly test and tell you if the wiring is correct:
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_cp_hi_0
GFCI outlets on a GFCI circuit breaker? I think that's overkill unless there was some funny wiring going on.
Here is a tester that will show if the outlet is wired correctly and if it's GFCI protected. Might be worth the $5 for piece of mind:
Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cUWeAbQG51J7V
ETA: There could also be another GFCI outlet on the circuit that you don't know about that is providing GFCI protection. The GFCI outlet that was protecting the other outlets in our bathroom was under the sink, tucked under a shelf that I did not notice for two years until the outlets stopped working and I needed to find out why.
You get a simple outlet tester like this:
Sperry Instruments GFI6302 GFCI Outlet / Receptacle Tester, Standard 120V AC Outlets, 7 Visual Indication / Wiring Legend, Home & Professional Use, Yellow & Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_yBILDbSMB9JYX
I use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/
You plug it in the outlet and push the button on top. If the outlet is on a gfci, it should trip it and the power at that outlet (and any others on the gfci) will go out.
The bigger issue is what's in the wall behind the outlets. Two-prong outlets are connected to hot and neutral wires only. Three-prong outlets are connected to hot, neutral, and ground wires (contained in a single cable). Changing the outlet won't help, other than giving something three-prong plugs will fit into. The wiring in the walls would need to be replaced, which could be an expensive proposition. I'd also check those kitchen outlets to see if they're actually grounded. It would be unusual for part of an apartment to get rewired and not the whole thing. This type of device will answer that question quickly: http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_3
Get one of these and test ALL the outlets. The three pong receptacles may not be properly grounded.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
With my 1950's house I got lucky. The house was wired with a ground wire but since this was before the days of 3 prong receptacles they tied the ground wire to each receptacle box (all metal boxes). Everything was grounded properly at the panel so all I had to do was just add a short piece of copper from a spare screw in each box to the ground screw of the new three prong receptacles I bought.
The sidebar link that was provided will give you other options aside from a full rewire job.
Ham radio operator here. Make sure you have proper grounding. That is, make sure you have a shielded PC case (NO BIG PLEXIGLAS WINDOWS), and make sure your power cord is properly grounded (3-prong plug into a 3-prong outlet). Make sure your outlet is appropriately grounded (get one of these). Make sure your home/building uses an appropriate ground rod at your mains feedpoint (where the power lines enter your building).
Then, ferrites on all cords leading to your audio amplifier (amplified speakers). That includes, the audio input, the power line and any speaker outputs.
replace your light switch with this
You could do things like you're planning but I would add in a water-valve to cut the water in addition to the power (you want to cut both so the washer doesn't run while it's dry). I would also use Home Assistant instead of IFTTT, since it will be faster and won't rely on your internet being up to work. If you go with ZWave device, you'll need some kind of hub, which Home Assistant can act as (with a ZWave USB stick).
However, unless you want to tie this particular issue into a large home automation system (getting text messages when the leak sensor is triggered for example), you might be better off with something like this, which is an all-in-one system for exactly your use-case: https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Detector-Shut-Off-Stopping-Detection/dp/B0742N3KHF/
Personally, I'd go with that kit, otherwise you're looking at:
That's already 3x the cost of the kit, not including your time to learn what you need to in order to get HA running & doing what you want it to.
I use one of these for an air compressor ( Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_4tTTDb0JXP8HA )
This is the light I got:
Roleadro Upgrade and Newly Developed LED Grow Light Full Spectrum 2nd Generation Series 300w Plants Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HI3AFYM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TtlOzbXWSYYMW
I also just picked up a cheap $9 timer on amazon. Works like a champ. I keep mine on from 9:30am to 9:30pm
Edit: here is the timer
Century 24 Hour Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AvlOzbW25N6CN
If you have amazon, order one of the timers like this one. I have one for my tank, and it's great! The lighting stays consistent and is one less thing to think about. I regularly am gone on the weekends without feeding, and my fish are all plenty fed. If you're worried, just feed them a bit more than usual on the last day you're there. I would definitely drop a sheet over the tank to keep the dust out.
I've been using multiple FLS-PP along with LED strips and it works fine with the current HUE firmware, you can get one of the modules and see if it works with your LED strip, just a quick look, and it has the same plug that the 5050s LEDs I have, but the 5050s LEDS are RGB.
or
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-HS100-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734 my dude
On a budget, I would stay well clear of things like Hue- they are very expensive to scale up because they rely on each bulb being "smart", and this also means they are limited in terms of which light fittings you can use in the future.
Personally i've gone for a self-build Z-Wave option, preferring to embed z-wave dimmers in my walls (behind the light switch) and make my own controller from a raspberry pi + some software called "Domoticz". This means an initial outlay of about $70 for the pi+Zwave adaptor, and then a cost of $40 per room after that regardless of how many bulbs you need. A hue solution would be 3-4x the cost.
The downside (or upside depending on your POV!) is that you need to build this yourself - setup your own alexa bridge, install + configure domoticz, and be willing to handle the electrical connections to your switches. It's all really easy though if you have the desire to get stuck in (there are lots of youtube tutorials). You can save a lot of $$ though particularly if you are in the US where the parts are generally cheaper than the UK (Where I am), and your setup will be much more configurable than any off the shelf solution. You can also add more obscure devices easily to a domoticz setup. I have my security cameras hooked in for example and setup so that a relevant light will turn on when the motion sensing is triggered between certain hours, and my wifi kettle connected so I can ask alexa to turn the kettle on. It's rather fun and addictive once you get started :)
As a starting point here are a few links that may help:
The best I've been able to find is the Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Multi-Sensor (DSB05-ZWUS). Note: not the newer models, for which the motion sensor doesn't work outdoor. You'll also need a zwave switch to control the lights (I use a GE 12724).
With a zwave dimmer switch, a zwave motion sensor, and a normal outdoor light fixture, I've set mine up to turn on the lights at 30% brightness at sunset, and off at sunrise. When motion is detected and the lights are already on, I have the brightness increase to 100% for 10 minutes, then back to 30%.
The Aeon sensor is definitely not ideal. I looked far and wide for a better outdoor motion sensor but wasn't able to find one. Others have suggested using a traditional outdoor light that has a motion sensor built in and detect the load increase to trigger an event. I decided not to go that route.
Container: Rubbermaid 20 gal Brute Bin
Lights: Kingbrite 60 W Quantum Board (if you want dimmable, ask for a dimmable driver like the HLG-60H-36B and a potentiometer)
Screws: You'll need lots of nuts, long screws, washers, and spacers to mount the board and PSU. First put the board on the lid and mark where to drill, then drill holes. Then put the power supply on the outside in the middle, mark and drill those hoses. Mount power supply and then flip lid over and mount the light, using long screws and nuts to hold it in place (the light should NOT touch the lid but be 1-2 inches from it, held in place by nuts). Drill small hole for power line, then connect. Finally, drill 3 inch hole for exhaust beside the light. You'll also need long screws with nuts to keep the fan and shrouds together. Be sure to use spaces anywhere the screw heads or nuts are touching the lid or the lights. For light spacers, I used rubber spaces between the nuts.
Cooling shrouds: 120mm Fan Duct Cooling Shroud to 4 Inch Vent Hose
90 degree 4 inch elbow for exhaust: 4 in. 90° Round Adjustable Elbow
4" to 3" reducer for exhaust: 4 in. to 3 in. Round Reducer
2x regular JB Weld to mount the reducer and 3 inch "trunk"
Fan: Delta AFB1212SHE-PWM 120mm x 38mm 4pin PWM+Tac Sensor Extreme Hi-speed 3700 RPM 151 CFM
Fan controller: Noctua NA-FC1 4-pin PWM Fan Controller
Fan power supply: LE Power Adapter, UL Listed, 3A, 120V AC to 12V DC Transformer, 36W Power Supply
Fan power supply adapter: CRJ Female DC Power Supply Plug to 12V Molex Power Adapter Cable
Fan molex adapter: Coolerguys Mini 3-4 pin Fan Adapter (Single)
2x ABS fan elbow (for "snout" intake): 3 in. ABS DWV 90-Degree Hub x Hub Long-Turn Elbow
Air filter for intake: 16.25 in. x 12.5 in. x 0.19 in. - 16.3 in. x .2 in. x 12.5 in. - CF300 Carbon Filter
Air filter (not pictured): VIVOSUN 4 Inch Air Carbon Filter Odor Control with Australia Virgin Charcoal for Inline Fan
Fan hose (not pictured): iPower GLDUCT4X8C 4 inch 8 feet Non-Insulated Flex Air Aluminum Foil
Watering device (not pictured): Janolia Automatic Irrigation Kit, Self Watering System, with Electronic Water Timer
Camera (not pictured): Wyze Cam 1080p HD Indoor Wireless Smart Home Camera with Night Vision (glue steel piece for magnetic base onto the upper side of the bin)
Notes: This design is very safe because it keeps all electronic components high in the bin. At the same time, using a battery powered watering system keeps you from requiring to ever open it. The lamp runs very cool. The PWM fan controller works well and keeping the air moving without using a lot of power (do NOT buy a cheap voltage modulator, I did first and it doesn't work nearly as well as the PWM controller). The Wyze cam is super cheap and lets you keep an eye on everything or make timelapses. Have fun growing your tomatoes!
I bought something like this.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486522222&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=remote+wall+outlet
The idea being that the raspberry pi can trigger the specific remote button and then activate the outlet. The nice thing about this solution is you don't have to worry about switching 120 or 240 V directly with a relay.
I have refurbished / reconditioned or otherwise repaired just about every component in my theater. The KEF speakers are all same era and generation, plus or minus a few years.
Front Channels: KEF 103/4 Reference speakers - owner replaced foam surrounds on the internal push/pull woofers - and I refurbished the ferrofluid in the tweeters. $175 off craigslist
Center Channel: NOS (new old stock) KEF Model 100 - found on craigslist. Someone found it in their garage, sitting new in box for 20 years. Refurbished the tweeter (ferrofluid replacement). $60 off craigslist.
Surround Channels: KEF C55 speakers that I found at Goodwill for $20. Complete cleanup - ferrofluid treatment of tweeters. Great condition otherwise.
Rear Channel: KEF Model 90 "center channel" speaker - bought this before I found the Model 100. Roughly the same speaker, but smaller tweeter than the model 100. Tweeter refurbed, cleaned up inside and out. I went with a 6.1 configuration because my room wouldn't benefit much from 7.1 - and the window placement made that difficult. Mixing 7.1 down to 6.1 doesn't change much. $40 off Craigslist.
Subwoofer: PA-120 Premier Acoustics 12'' Subwoofer had this sub for 8 years now, and love it to pieces. Very punchy, very powerful, very affordable. Weighs a metric ton - and customer service was top notch. (Amp malfunctioned after 6 years - got a new one from them free of charge).
Surround AV Receiver: Marantz SR6008 receiver I bought for $200 on ebay because it was 'for parts/not working.' The HDMI1 output (there are two) was burned out. Bought a new HDMI board from Marantz for a hundred bucks and the thing is good as new.
Speaker Mounts: The left C55 surround and rear channel are on custom made speaker mounts - the rear is half custom - mounted to one of the speaker mounts I got from Amazon.
Projection Screen: Custom 105'' Screen Frame and made from a canibalized Da-Lite screen I got for free from work. (was hiding in the plenum when we purchased our office space.
Projector: Benq HT1075 - bought new, because it's already so cost effective. Found it on sale at Frys for $699 a year ago. Very happy with this little projector.
Theater/Home Automation: Home Assistant running on an iPad 3 in the theater room. The iPad was sitting in a drawer, not in use for at least a year, and found an OEM apple dock for $5 on ebay for when it's not in use. I can control my Smart Things devices (z-wave dimmer) - MiLight LED strips behind the screen, in the EXIT light, and the bulbs in the uplight/spotlights in the room, I also integrated Broadlink RM2 support for controlling cheap 433mhz outlet switches for the air purifier, popcorn machine, and whatever else I need to control.
Movie Posters: Marketing department had a bunch of these frames in storage from an old PR campaign. Tore out the foamcore inserts, found high res posters, and ordered them on this silk-like fabric directly from China for $9 a pop. They look incredible up close, almost lithograph-like.
RGB Lighting: Generic RGB Strips I bought for $5 a pop on price mistake with Milight RGB controllers. Milight 9W RGBW bulbs I got for $13 each in $15 brushed steel uplights from Lamps Plus. All controled with the Milight WiFi controller through Home Assistant.
Seating was transitioned from the living room when we bought new sofas - raised the rear seating on 10'' platform. 12GA Speaker wire from my local wire wholesaler (similar price to monoprice). Looking for some carpet options - and have a lead on a local seller of OC703 for acoustic panels.
It's come a long way in a year - here's a before and after - December 2015 and April 2016 -- not the most recent, obviously - but I'm very proud with how it's coming together.
Depending on how much you want to spend, this could be done several different ways. Let's just say you want to keep it under $35... Here's what you might do (keep in mind this isn't exactly what you were going for, but it might be a better option depending on how you look at it):
Get the ZAP 5XL from Amazon for $30. It comes with 5 outlet adapters that plug into one socket on each of your existing outlets, and gives you a remote controlled outlet. These outlets are then controlled by a wireless remote that has 5 on/off buttons. The remote can be programmed to control multiple outlets with one button.
You could then surface mount a blank wall plate to the wall, and use a 3m command Velcro like strip to attach the remote to that blank wall plate. This would allow the remote to act as a stationary wall switch and also a removable remote control.
Lutron makes their caseta wireless switches that come with the pico remote, or you can buy them separate. You can even mount the remote in a switch box to make it look like a real second switch.
The switch and remote work by themselves without a hub, but a hub can be added later for more control.
Technically it's not z wave, it's lutron clear connect, but it works with the wink hub, or you can buy the lutron smart bridge, and then get it to work with Vera or smartthings.
Yep. I have a Luton
MaestroCaseta with the pico remote and it let me adjust the dimming range to where it goes smoothly to almost completely off. That's with Cree bulbs.Edit: I just checked and mine is actually a Caseta, not a Maestro. Here's the link.
Lutron Caseta... replaces traditional switch, supports standard light bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481198595&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=caseta+lutron
Possibly https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
With a short nema 6-15 or 6-20 extension cord cut in half.
Or something simple like
https://www.amazon.com/Gro1-Single-Outlet-Mechanical-Timer/dp/B004OH0EUQ
I went with these GE dimmers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/
Hey /u/Mercury357 !
Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.
I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99
Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now
If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)
I'm using the Cree 60W Equivalent Soft White bulbs in my overhead kitchen lights that have these GE dimmers. I have no buzz at all.
These ge switches/dimmers are awesome and will work directly with smart Things, so no need for stupid additional controllers: https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C
With smart zwave switches you can use regular LEDs or bulbs for all of your lights.
You have several 220-240V z-wave choices that all work to control water/pool heaters and work with Wink:
Lastly, as u/cciv suggested, you can use a heavy-duty 240V relay whose coil voltage is 120V - and plugs into a regular 120V z-wave outlet. If you want something pre-built that does that, there's the ELK 9200 Heavy Duty Relay.
You could wire one of these in front of a plug:
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501764708&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aeon+labs+heavy+duty
It uses zwave so you would need a controller that can talk to the device. I use one of these to drive a 220V pool pump. Works well. It will also return other sensor data like current draw and temperature of the switch.
Here's a comment I wrote the other day for someone else.
Edit: Set-and-forget with an inexpensive timer for your lights; here's my favorite.
So the wine fridge came with the house. Free.
Humidifier: $40
Crane Filter-Free Droplet, Cool Mist Humidifier, Blue and White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1CQ9OO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FEJ1CbDZ3G50M
Fan: $17
AC Infinity AXIAL 8025, Muffin Fan, 120V AC 80mm x 25mm High Speed, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OXSFBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HGJ1CbDYVZV8J
Fan speed controller: $14
AC Infinity, Fan Speed Controller for 100 to 125V AC Axial Muffin Cooling Fans, Single Connector, for DIY Cooling Ventilation Exhaust Projects https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00809BQZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7HJ1Cb633YCRV
Timer: $13
Century 7 Day Heavy Duty Digital Programmable Timer - Dual Outlet (Indoor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XIJ1CbQQD38YE
(I'm going to upgrade to a wemo smart plug here, at some point)
Exit vent: $10
Plastic Air Vent Grille Cover 3 Flaps Wall Duct Ventilation Grill With Net Plastic Louvre Air Vent Grille with Flyscreen Cover(1515CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079N83QSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GPJ1Cb3KV0CYM
(Can get for half this price at Home Depot)
Controller: $175 + shipping (day... $15)
https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=37&amp;products_id=642
Miscellaneous: $65
Total: $350 (ish)
Acquiring a suitable fridge will certainly add here. I got lucky and we had the wine cooler sitting around for years. It was literally in our house when we moved in.
Hope this helps!
https://www.dripirrigation.com/d071
https://www.dripirrigation.com/50-foot-1-8-inch-micro-tubing-with-187-od
https://www.dripirrigation.com/3-4-mnpt-x-12-pvc-riser
https://www.dripirrigation.com/sf005 (get 12 of these)
https://www.dripirrigation.com/s047 (get 24 of these)
https://www.dripirrigation.com/d075 (get 12 of these)
Add an water pump w/ a digital timer
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Digital-Programmable-Packaging-Security/dp/B00MVF16JG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=digital+timer+electric&amp;qid=1572359867&amp;sr=8-5
https://www.amazon.com/EcoPlus-Adjustable-Water-Pump-172/dp/B00FH9L3QE/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=eco+pump&amp;qid=1572360378&amp;refinements=p_89%3AEcoPlus&amp;rnid=2528832011&amp;sr=8-4
Don’t mind at all! I’ll just post the whole setup below:
Using these T5s: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKKUBDQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Using these LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Y32PFZ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Using this outlet timer for 12 hours on/off: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Using these for gnat control (it was pretty bad at the beginning): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2KYORO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
For your lighting, getting a digital timer will make your life so much easier. I have Century 7 brand from Amazon, only $13. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MVF16JG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495566943&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=light+timer+century&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Qwe9JjZ5L&amp;ref=plSrch
It has two outlets so one for heat and one for UVB. I have 2 basking lights + UVB so I plugged a power strip into the timer and now I can plug in more stuff! It'll turn your lights on and off for you every day so you don't have to worry about forgetting and won't have to wake up early to turn lights on. My lights are on at 7:30am and off at 9:30pm.
Here is a picture of my set up. Lights are about a foot away from the plants (could probably be close but they do just fine) and are on for 16 hours a day via this timer! :)
DETAILS ON SET UP
Light: Roleadro 300W LED light
Fan and filter: ipower 4" inline fan with carbon filter (my roomates are worried about the smell
Tent: Millard 30" x 18" x 36" tent
Odds and ends: A digital timer to schedule lights
A fan speed controller
3-gallon smart pots
A humidity and temp sensor
Plus a small clip on fan.
GROW DETAILS
I have three different strains, Northern Lights, Pre-99 big bud, and pure power plant, and then an unknown seed(which I planted about two weeks ago as the previous unknown seed turned out male, see previous post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/5qo1yo/early_sign_of_balls_details_in_comments/0. One in each 3-gallon smart pot. For the first two weeks of growing I had an 18/6 light schedule, and then switched to 12/12. (I'm essentially doing 12/12 from as early as the plant could respond to the change in light schedule). Over the past 15 days I watered twice with tiger bloom nutes.
I definitely made the mistake of not listening to your advice when I originally posted and am trying to grow 3 plants in a 1.5X2.5X3 foot tent...It is getting crowded, I should've listened and stuck with one, maybe two plants. Other than that I haven't had any problem that I have noticed other then a few spots of damage on leaves occasionally but no pests or wilting. I'm sure there are things I could've done better though. Thank you for all your help, I can't wait to get to harvest.
Sure! I used these lights from amazon. I think they are supposed to be for garages but they met the specs I was looking for (CCT: 6500k and 2100+ lumens per square foot per light) and were relatively inexpensive. I have 2 on each shelf connected to eachother by cords that are included in the pack. The pack also comes metal snaps that screw in, but I opted to attach using large command picture hanging strips. I kept the metal brackets just in case the command strips didnt work but so far they have been working great and I dont have to put as many holes in the hutch. Plus I have run the lights for 8 hours straight and can still touch the aluminum housing. I would say after that amount of time its like touching one of those hand warmer packs right when they start. Its kind of hard to see from the pictures but I did have to drill small 5/8th inch holes so the lights could connect as a continuous unit. This was honestly just for me because I am forgetful and have them hooked up to this timer. I also have some mini fans that I would like to put in so I can keep the doors shut... but I havent quite figured that out yet haha
Amazon has one here for $10!
Edit:Formatting/changed link to a better quality, grounded timer.
I'd go low tech with this.
Get a plug in appliance control module. Something like this (but whichever one will work with your system; if you have no smart hub get a mechanical timer like this one).
Wire the 24vac transformer that feeds your doorbell in through it.
Result- doorbell does nothing for the hours you specify, for under $50.
Alternatively, get a double pole relay and a small interval timer. During the day, pushing the doorbell rings the chime. During the night, pushing the doorbell opens an electronic valve that feeds a sprinkler head pointed at your front door for several seconds. If drunk college students are ringing your doorbell at night, they will quickly learn not to.
work smarter, not harder
A cheap mechanical timer can be configured for an endless 15 min on/45 min off.
I don't have super helpful advice as I don't have the space for a large collection. I use my lights year around, tho I truck my plants outside as much as possible during the summer.
I have these bulbs.
And I just pop one into a desk lamp, which is plugged into this automatic timer.
The timer does have a slight learning curve to it, but it's so nice to have something that does all the work of turning my light off and on.
The bulbs are great and cheap. I usually rotate my plants closer and further away every other day or so. I find if I leave them directly under it (about 5-6 inches away) for too many days, they will skip right thru pretty stress to ugly stress. In the dark depths of winter, I might pull out my red and blue light gooseneck as a supplement to make me feel better, but I really don't think I'll need it, and that usually has to be within 2-3 inches tops to be any good.
a cheap hps kit is a good start. Can grow plants through all stages. Just need a decent sized space like 6' tall, 4 x 4
want to spend more / better quality? get a cmh kit.
want to diy? build a LED COB kit
looking for more shelf compatible that are good for seedlings? get LED shoplights at your local lowes / depot
yeah you will want a timer. they are cheap / normal timers u see for like christmas lights
I have this 4 foot T5 with a stand, this shelf on top of a side table, this 2 foot T5 hooked to the bottom shelf with paper clips and key rings (lol), daisy-chained to this other 2 foot T5 hooked to the top shelf the same way. They are all run on two of these timers which are on ~10 hrs/day.
I have two of these plant racks from Lowe's in front of my south and east facing windows, I jimmied out the bottom shelf and sort of rested it on my windowsill and the edge of the stand (lol again). It's all very MacGuyvered.
Yes you can but you need to get an FLS-PP ballast so they can communicate with HUE. I am not sure how yours are hooked up but the 4 individual strips need to be connected to each other. You would get rid of your existing controller and power supply. The new FLS-PP ballast needs 12V run to it. You can use your current power supply if it is 12v but you would need to cut the end off it as it's directly wired to the new ballast. The only thing you would need to do is then hook the 12V-R-G-B from the RGB strip to the ballast. Should be about a 5-10 minute job. Once you hook the ballast up search for new devices in your HUE app and it will show up as 2 devices a color lamp and a white one. If you are using RGB strips then you can ignore the white lamp. If you are using RGBW stripes then you can use both.
Going this route would fully integrate you LED's with HUE. Having said that you would not be using the remote to control the loght anymore. You would be using the HUE App or Alexa if you want to use voice commands.
You can get one here : https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485270154&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fls-pp
They do exist but I'm not sure how popular a Hue blacklight would be.
You could create your own today if you really wanted. A simple UV light strip (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C2NQWIQ/) along with the DE FLS-PP controller (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/) should do the trick. You'd connect the UV strip to the white channel of the controller (ignoring RGB) and Hue would see your backlight as a white bulb.
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1441210947&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=FLS+ballast&amp;pebp=1441211138516&amp;perid=1H3E632X1Y8FTWMWS38Z
You can control basically any lights with this
It's not CHEAP, but, cheap-er: This ballast plays well with the Hue hub (it speaks zigbee) and I've got it attached to two $12/ea rolls of LED strip from China:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ
I have about 30 ft worth of LED strips on my porch with my hue system. I am using the FLS-PP Zigbee controller with IP67 rated LED strips. It is in a location that wont have any direct contact with water (on porch ceiling). I put some electrical tape around the connections to help water proof it a little more though.
So far 1.5 months and no issues yet.
As for the hue branded strips, I am not sure I would put those outside because.
1 - they are expensive. 30ft of strips and the FLS-PP controller cost about the same price as the starter Lightstrip plus kit. $90 roughly. So if it does die I am not out the $400-$500?? for a comparable Hue light strip plus with enough extensions
2 - the connections are not very waterproof on the hue brand. If they will see any contact with water they will corrode I think. I will just keep those on the back of my TVs for now.
There is a zigbee controller that works with the hue hub. I have it and it works great, though it is difficult to connect the wires to it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503796346&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Zigbee+controller
The easiest way is to get a GE Fan Controller and a compatible hub, such as SmartThings, Wink, or Vera.
Building off of /u/Terrancelee
They are called Fan speed controls
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Control-Z-Wave-12730-Amazon/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
For your fan, take a look at this. It allows you to control the speed of the fan without having to click the chain. Leave the fan on high and let the switch work its magic. I love the one I have in my living room.
[GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control] (http://amzn.com/B00PYMGVVQ) is what I installed.
The picture doesn't show it but there are are a set of 3 LEDs on the vertical plastic strip that show the speed setting selected.I must have dreamed that.Yes, SmartThings could certainly do this... personally, I have a timer set up for a heater in my bathroom. Once I turn on the heater, the timer turns it back off after 45 minutes.
However, I'm not sure you NEED SmartThings to accomplish this... I think you probably need to just purchase a smart plug or smart bulb that is compatible with Stringify. It looks like the TP-Link Smart Plug is compatible, or if you just want to buy a lamp, the TP-Link LB100 is listed on Stringify's website.
The nice thing about doing a lamp is that you get dimming, so you can have it slowly dim up in the morning when the alarm goes off, or dim it to a low level if you need to get up in the middle of the night.
Personally, I've never used stringify, but looking at some of their flow examples, I see no reason it can't do exactly what you're looking for with the purchase of compatible equipment!
What's great about OP's new pot is it's mechanically controlled so you could use a regular smart plug to control it from your phone.
those look like chinese private label items.
if you already have a power strip, why not a tP-Link smart plug or Wemo Plug
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734
or
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Enabled-Works-Amazon/dp/B01NBI0A6R
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502957197&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=smart+plug
/u/balance07
/u/danger-moose
All time low price: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734
Free Same-Day delivery. Voice control all the things (with Echo)!
Edit: BOOOO! Only one per customer. WTF.
Seems there are a lot of home automation products being given the "Alexa" discount as shown by checking out with this: TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works w/ Amazon Alexa & Google Assistant (HS100)
The LIFX says it's a 25% discount in checkout. Nice find!
Not op but maybe something like this?
TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WWSHyb1RHJ7SE
If you use an Alexa-Enabled device, Google Assistant or Apple HomeKit you can simply talk to the device or use the app to control lighting in addition to a traditional switch.
For example:
Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch by TP-Link - Control Lighting from Anywhere, Easy In-Wall Installation (Single-Pole Only), No Hub Required, Works With Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bC1VBbAZ0T8FT
Yeah, you can do that! I've become a big fan of Zooz switches [Amazon]. The linked one there is the ZEN26, which is for on/off switches (as opposed to dimmers). An important note: Zooz switches are Z-wave, meaning they need a hub (like SmartThings or HomeSeer) to control via Google home.
If you don't want to get a hub, there are plenty of other options available. TP-Link makes some great switches, and their app is wonderful. You just set up the switches, then connect your TP-Link account to your Google account, and then all of your switches can be controlled from the Google Home app or your Google home mini.
The process of rewiring the switches is quite simple, and there are plenty of video resources available. But, as always, have a professional do it if you're not confident.
Reply back here if you have other questions, I'd be happy to try and help!
I use this for my ceiling fan: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500032800&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=smart+switch
but you're also going to need a smart things hub (or any other compatible hub) unfortunately google home can't act as the hub for all the smarthome stuff.Smart things : https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1500032886&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=smart+thingsWith those twoI can just say "Hey google turn on the fan"EDIT: it appears that switch just uses wifi now and not zwave, eliminating the need for the hub
You'd need a pi W, power supply for the pi, box, and then dimmer hardware you could control from the pi ( https://www.amazon.com/Dimmer-Module-Controller-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B06Y1GVG26 these guys work fine)
there are also prebuilt home automation compatible dimmers that you could install, which can be run from a web interface or smartphone. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU ) these guys run ~$25-30
As others have mentioned, you can test the battery with a multimeter, but it's only a single point in time measurement and won't necessarily predict how long you have to failure. (Can give you a clue.)
https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=voltage+tester&amp;qid=1559320174&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=volt&amp;sr=8-5
As a general rule of thumb, I replace any original battery before I start a run through a GB game, just to be safe I don't lose the save half way through.
Make sure they're Alkalines, I forget what the old style is called but you don't want your bass to die in the middle of the gig because you saved $1 on your battery. I get the Duracell Pro Cell packs from Amazon, they come out to $1.50 each. They're just normal Duracells but they're good quality and I like the labeling, it's easier to write the installation date on the side of the battery with a sharpie.
It's worth getting a basic multimeter or at least a tester, alkaline batteries don't die all at once, the voltage gradually sags, they read about 9.5V right out of the package and over time they'll droop to 8V, 7V, etc. I've had a lot of basses that are much punchier with full voltage and gradually lose punch and just sound kind of thin and weak until I put in a new battery again. I've had other basses that don't seem to care as much.
It's time to buy a multimeter.
Learn how to use it!
I use the GE smart switches with a smart things hub.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ACMvCb57QX7S0
I'd recommend going with a SmartThings hub. The Echo can easily interface with it, and you can control it from both your iPhones and Apple Watch (I find the utility of controlling things from my Mac to be pretty low, and so don't really bother -- but I'll mention one possible solution below).
Here's what I recommend:
HTH!
I use Smartthings and really like it. You can find the hubs for less than $80 if patient and looking around. Ya that may seam like a lot but using the switch you picked out at $80 x 3 for a cost of $240 while Smarthings plus either these Leviton or these [GE] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=psdc_507840_t4_B01N4F487U) will end up being cheaper if you buy 3 or more. Z-wave is designed for exactly this, home automation stuff so I really prefer to use that over WiFi devices.
I don't have any switches at the moment, only Hue but I will be getting some eventually. For a Hub you have two real options if you are really new and not super techy, Wink and SmartThings. Both have different strengths. I've never used Wink but that seams to be a bit more user friendly, however Smartthings is by no means difficult and it has a very helpful community and is more customization. Someone will probably take issue with this but I liken Wink to IOS (cleaner UI, a bit smoother, just works) and Smartthings to Android (much more custimizable)
That's about all I can think of for now.
You should be fine with a Harbor Freight tool box. To be honest you can also buy tools and other things from there as well with out much worry. Just don't buy anything from them that will get heavy use under stress. Small tools like screw drivers, allen/hex keys, and grip tools like pliers aren't too bad from them. Just remember that they do deal in cheap tools so don't be surprised when some of them break. The below tools are suggestions and the links are examples for reference only.
I run a NIST-traceable calibrated Fluke 289 for work and I have one of these cheap Innova DMMs for home/car/vape projects and have been shocked with it's accuracy vs the Fluke. It's typically spot on, vs the much much more expensive Fluke...and you can pick one up for $20 usually.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452972631&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=innova+3320
Yeah, the i2 is designed to stop charging when it reaches 4.2V regardless if the battery is protect or unprotected. So either your charger is really messed up because 4.8V is dangerously high or there's some sort of mix-up with the reading.
>I just assumed given the age of the laptop battery that they'd have low charge and just threw them on the Nitecore i2 charger without testing voltage ahead of time.
You should never do this without knowing the voltage of the batteries beforehand. Here are some directions for the next time you want to do a laptop pull. Buy a multimeter, they're like $25 online. This is the one that I use for testing voltages.
First of all, does the wall plate in your office have just 1 phone line? 2 or all 4?
All 4 would be ideal, but you need at least 2 for this to work because Ethernet needs at least 2 pairs of wires.
Also if you only have 2 pairs of wires then you'll only get 100Mbit Ethernet. Gigabit Ethernet requires all 4 pairs.
This job would be made easier with a Tone & Probe kit (also known as a Toner). Simply plug the tone generator into the phone jack in your office, then go down to the basement with the probe and use it to identify the correct pair of wires.
Once you identify the pair of wires, you're going to have to remove all 4 pairs of wires (BlueWhite/Blue, OrangeWhite/Orange, GreenWhite/Green, BrownWhite/Brown) from the patch panel (the thing you showed in the picture)
It looks like you've got plenty of wire there to work with. Instead of crimping an RJ-45 plug directly on to the wire (and definitely DO NOT just twist the wires together), I would recommend punching the wire down to a surface-mount RJ-45 jack like this one.
You'll need a punchdown tool like this
As far as the jack in the office, You'll need to replace that too. You'll probably need to replace the wall plate as well.
Edit to make more clear
Only IF you have only 2 pairs of wires in the office
Then punching down the RJ45 jacks is a bit trickier. You still follow the [TIA-568B standard] (http://www.ertyu.org/steven_nikkel/ethernetcables.html) but you leave the Blue and Brown wires out (Pins 4,5,7 and 8).
It's going to be a bit confusing because the colors of the wires won't necessarily match the chart. Just make sure that you punch down each end of the cable the same way. Remember, you'll only be punching down pins 1,2,3 and 6.
Hope that helps. Good luck! :)
Get a "Fox and Hound"
It's a device that generates a signal on a wire then you can detect it along the way with the wand on the other half.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0?th=1&amp;psc=1
There are several different types of these and other brands.
It's a bit of a longshot, but you can use a tone generator and inductive amplifier to try to trace the wire. [This] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FTADX0) is the one I use for work. You would plug the tone generator into one of the CAT5e cables, and I'd suggest setting the tone to "warble". The tone generator sends a signal down the wire the the inductive amplifier picks up and, well, amplifies. Generally, these are used when you can already see a bunch of wires and are just trying to find the right one. However, it's possible if you ran the probe around the top of your walls in the house that you could get close enough to hear the tone and trace the cable.
I've been in this situation, it sucks but it doesn't have to be that bad. First get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ That will let you trace the wiring through the walls and make things 1,000x easier. Heck these days there are even cooler things out there like this thing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoWdmFFnMi0
We also didn't "gut it to the studs" but we did make lots of holes in drywall. What I did that was super helpful, was use a big hole saw for most of the holes the drywall, then all the holes were the same size, they were clean holes, and very quick and easy to patch.
> Sperry Instruments ET64220 Lan Tracker Wire Tracer
Toner, go with Fluke
> Rosewill Network/PC Service Tool Components RTK-146 Grey
I have had better luck piecing my tool kit together with better tools than buying a complete toolkit like the Rosewill. There are a couple items in that kit I would never use and some I would want a better quality.
> InstallerParts 10 Piece Network Installation Tool Kit
Looks like a good kit with the items you need.
> Thermaltake Dr. Power II Automated Power Supply Tester Oversized LCD for All Power Supplies - AC0015
I don't have one so I will not comment on if that particular model/brand is good
>Gigabit RJ45 Loopback Tester
Just make your own. Don't waste your money there.
You also might look into getting a 1000ft box of cat5e cable. Don't have to get most expensive. And choose a neutral color, like grey or white. Also you will want to grab a 100pc RJ45 ends bag and 10-20 RJ45 keystone jacks with wall plates. Fishtape and or Fishpoles. Spare Keyboard, Mouse, Old VGA monitor, external HDD, USB SATA adapter
That's all I can think of right now. I have picked up so much more along way. I have spare powerstrips, Cheap mini 5-port switches, Spare wireless routers, and a plethora of diverse cables. All OS images. I might come back and add to this, but I'm tired and think this is a good starting point.
A tone generator and a probe would help you trace which cable goes where. https://www.amazon.ca/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0
Basically use a switch as a "splitter". Here's a toner probe: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0
You don't really need the toner if the switch has enough ports for each line, or at all really for a small job like that, but they're nice to have for cabling.
This is what you need.
Fluke Networks 26000900 Pro3000 Tone Generator and Probe Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a1GaBbDZHDV64
I'm a network tech with 15 years exp, use these allllll the time for tracing cables. It's pretty self explanatory to use. You'll plug one end into the jack and turn it on. Make sure it's on the "tone generator" and not "continuity" setting. Should have a light that lets you know which signal it's sending out. You'll then take the wand and go to the IT Closet and grab a handful of cable, hold the button on the wand, and wave the wand through the cables. When the cable you're looking for is found the wand will make music that sounds like an ice cream truck.
You might have issues finding it, takes a little practice and depending on a lot of things the tone could bleed over to multiple cables so you need to make sure you're receiving a good strong tone. It'll be louder when the signal is strong. Also if the cable you're looking for is patched into a switch you will not get a tone BUT if it is, you shouldn't have any issues just plugging your access point in.
The only other issue is you might need an IT guy to allow the AP onto the network. I know you said you pay for it but someone maintains the server room. It can get more complicated than just plugging an AP in unfortunately.
> heard a loud popping sound.
From where? Could she localize it? From your breaker box, or elsewhere? Worst case situation, someone made a crappy splice somewhere in the circuit, and it gave out.
Assuming you have a meter... (if not, get one, as well as a plug-in outlet tester that shows proper wiring of hot, neutral & ground wires (when you have power,))
With the breaker OFF--or disconnected altogether if you have a suspect breaker...
Sometimes breakers can trip without seeming to, eg. the switch doesn't move, but it blows internally. Test your breaker with a meter. With any luck, the circuit with all the dead outlets was wired in a straight series. Sometimes people wire branches, which makes finding a problem a bit trickier.
Also... With the circuit breaker on, use your meter to test between all the blades of each outlet to see if you're getting any current anywhere. Hot & neutral should show 110-120 volts, and hot & ground should as well. People frequently mis-wire outlets. One of these testers will reveal improper wiring. (once you have power restored.)
In new construction many states require Arc Fault Interrupter outlets in bedrooms. Got any of those in the circuit? Any GFI outlets in a bathroom or wet area?
It's not a terribly complicated concept. You're basically hacking together a 240v circuit. Here's a site that explains how to build your own clone.
Edit: You probably don't want to try to use something like this on a circuit that's already sketchy. For example, it isn't unheard-of for a previous homeowner to have ignorantly swapped hot and neutral on a circuit when they replaced a socket. A Quick220-like device will end up directly shorting such a circuit, and that's not good. In fact it's "burst into flames" bad if the breaker is also faulty. Get yourself a tester and know how to read the lights.
Well, it depends.
A cheater plug should have a tab at the bottom. That tab is supposed to be attached to the screw that you'd find in the center of the outlet, between the top and bottom receptacles.
On some of these older outlets, the receptacle box itself is grounded, so, screwing the cheater tab in properly will act as a ground for your cheater plug. The question is, are your outlet boxes grounded? They might or might not be. Only way to be sure would be to use an outlet tester after it's installed.
This of course also means you're going to need to cut off power at the breaker box while your'e screwing around with the outlets, to avoid electrocuting yourself. And if you're not comfortable with messing around with outlets, don't risk it.
These are $4 and idiot proof. I honestly wouldn't know how to check ground/neutral with a multi-meter.
Edit: Splurge on the $7 tester with a GFCI test, even if you're not replacing your bathroom receptacle you can double check it works.
Buy one of these and plug it in. It'll let you know if the receptacle is wired wrong. They can be had at nearly any home improvement store as well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_WPpxwb3N4BPEH
Buy one of these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0CV79NQW6DYC13JCVQF3
Test all of them.
it will not tell you when you need an outlet replaced. It will only show you if the outlet is wired correctly or incorrectly. Make sure that when you push your GFCI back into the box that no bare copper is touching bare copper on the neutral/white conductor in the box. Also make sure that the conductors are tight in the terminal screws of your GFCI. You probably need to replace your GFCI with a new one if none of the previous suggestions work. Make sure that you turn the power off to the receptacle prior to removing it from the outlet box & working on the device
Get an outlet tester. Use it on every receptacle affected by the work including those in other parts of the house that might be on the circuits directly affected.
Get a multimeter. Use the AC testing function on the part that shocked you. Connect the red wire to the right most socket on the meter and put the probe and where you touched that shocked you. Put the black wire in the center socket on the meter and put the probe in the ground pin of a nearby receptacle. If you get any constant AC voltage over 1V, you have an issue with the power supply within the dryer (most likely).
Also use the multimeter on your outlet the dryer is fed from. You should put the black probe in the ground, and the red in each of the three (or two if your dryer is older) other holes in that receptacle. You should get two of them that measure 120V AC, and one that measures 0 AC and less than 1 V DC. Then measure from one hot to the other and just confirm you get 240V AC. If you get these values and you saw a voltage when testing the inside of the dryer, the dryer is the issue. Anything else means the wiring is borked.
The $20 you spend on these will be less than 1/3 of the cost of hiring an electrician to come out and even think about the issue.
It could also be static buildup inside the dryer caused by a loose or severed grounding strap inside. Try to connect a wire from the inside to the carpet/floor in your home with an insulated wire if all of the above comes back normal - don't try this first in case there is an AC voltage issue...
Hi. There's a couple things you can do to reduce RFI. Like you said, you can use a shielded cable. It would help if you can connect both ends to ground -- but make sure your electrical mains entrance ground is correct and up to code. You should have a ground rod right below the entrance, and it should be connected to your panel. All lines should be grounded lines, and you should have 3-prong outlets for all circuits. Get an outlet tester to be sure all sockets are wired correctly.
Another thing you can do is add ferrites on all wires going into and out of the HVAC units (power, data, everything). These act as RF filters.
Now bluetooth and microwave ovens use the same frequency band (2.4 GHz). Its not unusual for some low level RF energy to leak out of microwave ovens, and overpower a low-power data connection like bluetooth. But if its more than a low-power leak it may indicate a faulty oven, or a bad ground.
Its possible you have a nearby intermittent transmitter that is affecting things. It could be an airport thing, or maybe a two-way radio like for police or fire, or maybe a neighbor with a CB radio or ham radio. If this is a licensed user and they have a correctly engineered installation, its up to your devices to accept interference. Proper grounding and filtering will help though.
I hope this gives you someplace to start. Good luck.
If you are curious about outlets and want to safely check them to see if they are set up properly, buy one of these or an equivalent: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
Should be available at most hardware stores also. Not sure if they have these for other non american outlet types
That's the cheapo version; spend the extra couple bucks and get the GE model which will last forever.
Are you properly grounding the amp and is your house properly grounded?
You can get something like this on amazon for pretty cheap to test your outlets.
For that kind of money you could easily get a 4-way (or 5-way) bulb adaptor plus 4-5 100w LED bulbs which would be TWICE as bright.
$14.99 for the fixture:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DVUDDC2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3UENWQOYWIPH9
$35 for 4 LED floodlights that are 100w each:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RMK05Y2/ref=crt_ewc_img_gw_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A1VCN0ZD746TM9
Pick up a motion sensing light switch for $21:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485043085&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=motion+sensing+light+switch
That will be 500 watts versus 228 watts for only $71, saving you $50 per fixture. Got two like I do? $142 instead of $260!
Now, if something goes wrong, you can replace the bulbs or fixture cheaply. Or take it with you.
Bonus? You don't even have to remove your existing ceiling socket. This all just screws right in!
I used a Lutron Maestro switch. The lights are direct wired to it (through the walls) in my case.
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465245428&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lutron+occupancy+sensor
It isn't a kit, but any light that can be powered from normal home AC power will work with it.
Yup... be worried about how to pay for a new house when your insurance claim is denied because you attached a non-UL listed device into the mains wiring.
Instead, buy [something like this] (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC) and make sure the installation's done to code.
Your device will be cheaper and more customizable. But you shouldn't screw around with mains power unless you know what you're doing both in terms of the electric and the legal aspects.
Just reno'd my home, and I LOVE MY SMART HOME. I'm using SmartThings in conjunction with Logitech's Harmony Hub, and it is working fantastically!!
A few other recommendations:
HOME MODE:
Now, I have my smart home programmed so that when I pull up onto the driveway and into the range of my wifi, the blinds automatically open, my LED lights come on, and the TV system turns on, programmed to my starting channel of course (which is usually sports, because baseball is on by the time I get home :D), and the door unlocks. It's...really amazing lol...I freaking love this setup.
If I have gone out for the day and just remembered that I didn't check to see if I locked the door? I can just check the status of it from the SmartThings app. Unlocked? Click. Locked.
VACATION MODE:
When I was out of town last month, I programmed a couple SmartThings routines to open and close my blinds, and turn my lights and tv on and off, at different intervals on different days. I used different timings for different days, because why not? It's so easy and simple to set up in SmartThings, so why not make it just the slightest more realistic and difficult for burglars to figure out?
All in all, I can't believe my smart home is actually functioning the way I hoped it would. I expected there to be more issues and problems, but nope, it's working exactly the way I wanted it to.
When my garage is cleared out, I will be installing my wifi enabled Chamberlain garage door openers too, so that the garage door will open automatically for me as well :) If you can get them to install that too, that would save you a bunch of time, since that's a lengthy install and you usually need someone to help with it.
GOOD LUCK!
Optional:
BONUS EDIT:
Writing this prompted me to check my stuff while here at work. I just opened the SmartThings app and noticed I left the blinds open! Click. Closed. :D
I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK
If you have 3-way switches though, be aware that the Linear option can end up costing a bit more. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.
I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.
One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.
Dude....
Non standard, non UL listed switches are potentially dangerous. Who knows what regulations they were built to. Even simple things like when you need a new switch plate will be a pain. I use these with great success
The ones you're looking at don't dim, and if you use Alexa it seems that all three switches are controlled simultaneously. You have to use an app to operate them independently. In the instructions they refer to the hot line as "fire line" and the neutral as "zero line" .
Your insurance company would probably not like these much. (or maybe they would as they could get out of paying a claim if these happened to burn your house down.)
Get your fidget spinners and bulk ping pong balls from aliexpress, but I'd stick with UL listed items when it comes to your well being.
Sure first here's the LED strips, Power Adapters, and Dimmer. Looks like they've gone up in price a bit since I did it but it's still not too bad. I didn't take any in progress pictures so I'll just have to describe how setup went. The LED strips come with a sticky back side so I just stuck that to the poles on the front side of the Detolf. I used 1 LED strip, 1 dimmer, and 1 power adapter per 2 Detolfs but you could also use 1 strip per Detolf. This will give you more even lighting, and the power adapter should still be able to handle powering 2 fine, you'd just need to also buy a connector for the 2 strips. After you've got the stuff its as simple as just taping on the stip in a |‾| running from the outside poles and across the top of the Detolf, running the power cord outside of it through the gap in the door, and the plugging in the dimmer.
Thanks so much! I highly recommend these LED strips. They're paper thin so they bend easily at the corners of a detolf. You'll need this adapter for the power.
My only complaint about them is that they're a little too bright at first. You get used to them though! You can't beat this nice even white lighting and the ease of installation.
Given that is looks like mine, I'm going to assume they are:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF66JO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&amp;pd_rd_r=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH&amp;pd_rd_w=Xw11o&amp;pd_rd_wg=ZQTfN&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=ET8Y5X5FM7Q06TP33QBH
To install: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnimeFigures/comments/7psgup/dioder_alternatives/dsjy59n/ (Follow the pictures in the chain)
I bought these after a suggestion from another person on this forum. I didn't think they would work, but WOW, it made a huge difference. Brightened my area unbelievably good. First link is the LED lights. Second link is the adapter to be able to plug it in.
I just wrapped mine around the inside of my window.
LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Strip Lights, 300 Units SMD 3528 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_r-dzybVRAW2Y5
LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ObezybTYECE37
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526496163&sr=8-3&keywords=led+strip+lights
get this!
youre also gonna need this
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DKSI0S8&pd_rd_r=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV&pd_rd_w=RgFLj&pd_rd_wg=qhiRw&psc=1&refRID=G8HHS4XR6MNMHDCCSNZV
Based on the specifications of that monitor, it requires a 7-18V DC power adapter. Within that range, you can get at 12V DC adapter for cheap and they're very common and generic. The amperage required by the monitor is less than 1A, so a this power adapter will work fine. Within the specifications of your monitor, and not expensive.
i bought these LED strip lights, which can be cut down to whatever length, and this power supply. i also bought some extra wire and connectors so i could run one long strip of LED lights through all four enclosures. worked around the adhesive issue by hot gluing the fuck out of them. i scratched up a line about two inches away from the front wall, to create some texture for the hot glue to grab, and allowed some extra glue to sort of wrap around the strip and prevent the strip from being peeled away from the glue.
LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Power Brick: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You can cut the LED strip and then re-solder them together. I used these wires for that: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QTCBZ4I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Thanks! I purchased all the LED parts from Amazon. Here are the links.
LED Strip: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQV6NNC
Power Supply: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8
Dimmer: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JQ437YM
The LED Strip can be cut every three lights, so you can make it whatever length you want. I have a ton of it left over. For the dimmer I just cut the power cord a few inches after the adaptor and wired it into the terminal block.
SOLUTION: http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463308319&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=remote+power+switch
One press of a button - done. BTW: I don´t have a good feeling that my HMD is always warm - even when turned off. So i will use this for the powerplug of the VIVE also.
I picked up these which work great. No more issues with the TV or worrying about them turning off on their own.
I just enabled the bluetooth thing to have them auto power off. If that wasn't an option I'd get one of these
You need a VR Cover and do you wear glasses at roughly 4 feet? If so, you need lenses. Then there are googly eyes, rubber condoms for your controllers or hmd, sanitary masks for sharing your Vive, extension cables if you have the room to use them, and an ac controller to turn everything on and off. There's probably more but that will get you started.
Christmas tree light remote..
It overpowers all steam VR updates fo’ever
Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, Wireless Remote Light Switch, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k2IFAbYV9CP4Q
I actually was looking for the information on the one i bought to post after I hit submit on my comment. [Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch for Household Appliances, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_FkNjxbPQZMPPN) P6OGMCD7 promotion code gets you $8.50 off right now, which gets it to $21.48 with free Prime shipping for five outlets and two remotes. You can actually do even better than interfacing with the remote, since the protocol is wrll documented at 433mhz, and you can just buy a couple dollar transmitter board and interface it to your arduino or RPi or whatever.
Exactly!
But honestly the small hangers they include are pretty good and running your light house up to a permanent place on the wall isn't a bad deal considering it gets rid of any space concerns.
But consider something like this as well - https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1551114394&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=remote+switch
So you can turn stuff on and off from one area and don't have to plug/unplug each lighthouse when you want to use or put away. Something like this lets you just control power remotely. I had AUKEY ones that apparently aren't sold anymore so I can't link them. There should be some better ones that are smaller in my opinion, but it made turning off the whir/whine sound of the lighthouses much easier than plugging/unplugging them over and over.
So you want the other lamps to turn on when you turn on the switched outlet?
The sarcastic answer is: extension cords.
Non-sarcastic, I'm not aware of any consumer RF product that detects when an outlet turns on and sends out a signal to other smart plugs to also turn on.
I think the closest thing you'll find at the budget you're talking about are these Etekcity wireless wall plugs. I would forget about the switched outlet, and just use command strips to stick the remotes at locations you like, so all the lamps can be controlled by the remotes.
All the lights are connected to my remote switch. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/
I've used https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-Programmable-Wireless-Control-Learning/dp/B00DQELHBS/ to do the same thing and they worked great. I also had some older ones from years ago that I got working too, although it turned out that they used 315MHz instead of 433MHz, so I got added a 315MHz transmitter and now I can control both groups from the same Pi.
These things are your best bet. Then you just need to control the remote using the arduino, and nothing on your end is exposed to line voltages. You'll be hard pressed to source the parts yourself and build something cheaper than what you can buy pre-made.
Home automation is fun as hell too. You can get some RF outlets and an RF Transmitter and Receiver and hook them up to your pi and then install Home Assistant to control it all from your phone.
This was just one quick tutorial I looked up that explains it pretty well. I've got the same thing on my setup. You can program command line switches into it, so anything you normally do from the command line you can program into Home Assistant as a button. Backups, file transfers, ssh commands, bash scripts, anything.
So I've got Tasker and when my phone connects to my home's wifi it will trigger the job in Tasker to start the CL switch in Home Assistant called "Home" and it runs a bash script to basically send the RF codes to turn on power strips for computer/ monitors, send a Wake On Lan (WOL) packet to turn on my computer, send an SSH command to an IR transmitter to turn on my AC, and send an RF signal to turn on the radio. AND, if you set up your own OpenVPN server at home you can log in remotely to your local network and turn on your RF outlets from anywhere. Telling you, you can get deep lol. If you ever need any help I'll do what I can.
I can't speak to the specific GE switch you have, but for my 3-way switches at home I used the Lutron Caseta switch w/ the add-on remotes.
They have worked for about a year now with zero issues. The nice part about the remote is it takes up no space in the box. The remote is battery powered (haven't had to replace any yet) and can legitimately be mounted anywhere you think is convenient.
Is this the one you have? Do you have LED lights hooked up to any of them? What Hub are you using?
An alternative would be to use a Lutron dimmer wifi switch that doesnt required a nuetral. Link
I have a few of these and they work great!
Confirmed. The switch is wired to the load and the remote is wall mounted acting as your second switch. I have this arrangement in both the kitchen and the living room and it works wonderfully.
Switch
Wall Plate
Lutron caseta is much simpler than it looks at first. You will need the wireless switch and the wall plate hat matches the number of switches in a location (e.g. a 5-switch install needs 5 switches and 1 5-gang wall plate).
For most people, the switch you want is
LUTRON P-PKG1W-WH Caseta Wireless 600-watt/150-watt Multi-Location In-Wall Dimmer with Pico Remote Control Kit, White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_O2YRybNK0JMVR
The single gang wall plate is:
Lutron CW-1-WH 1-Gang Claro Wall Plate (1 Pack), White
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MAW4XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F5YRyb2VD4WGE
And you will need one bridge (you can get a bundle of 2 dimmers, 2 picos, and a bridge but that bridge isn't the pro model which you may not need, I got it just in case, but I'm not using any of the additional integration capabilities):
Lutron L-BDGPRO-WH - Smart Bridge Pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z8AXQCQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N-YRyb1VWE0P8
You can also get a plug in dimmer for Lamps which acts as a range extender, and the non-dimmer switch for other devices such as potentially a ceiling fan or lights that just don't need dimming.
Hope that helps!
Three hardware solutions that I know of:
(This links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
More info [here.] (http://flic.io)
(This also links to your smartphone via BTLE.)
More info [here.] (http://www.satechi.net/index.php/satechi-bluetooth-button-series-media-button)
Lutron Casseta has one, but that falls into the category of requiring a hub. However Alexa and Harmony can both control that hub.
I think the Aeontec micro dimmer switches can be wired up in a 3 way configuration. Just watch your power draw on them. However, you will need a z-wave hub to accommodate, which the harmony hub can't do by itself.
And I think these GE Switches should be capable of being wired in three way because they have a traveler wire. However, you will again need a hub to manager z-wave devices.
What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.
Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Add-On Switch
Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.
Yes, I have this working with my smart things and the non dimming one would work as well. As I understand it, the slightly more expensive ge ones are self reporting - meaning when you physically switch it, it updates the hub. GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-62LxbDYY3DQS
I've not seen any smart rotary dimmers on the market. Being that a smart switch is kind of a blend between a traditional switch and a way to push buttons, I'm not sure how a rotary would even work. It seems like it would be very difficult for the tactile knob and the digital settings to be in sync. I suppose it could be a spring driven resistance type thing, but idk.
For paddle type dimmers, there's tons of options, such as this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2
You are welcome, as far as the camera goes I search on eBay and use the keywords "Vivint ping camera" (I am unsure how to link an auction from my phone. As far as add ons to my system I use 2gig PIR1 Passive Infrared Motion Detector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TZ73C6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ng.CzbM9GCJSE for the motion sensor, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wi.Czb8H4K514 for my dimmers, Previous Model: GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1i.CzbBD0V1RF for my ceiling fans, GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Duplex Receptacle Outlet, On/Off, In-Wall, White, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12721 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Lj.CzbQAY9KV4 for my outlets. I have found home automation to be addicting and expensive haha.
So these switches don't work directly with Alexa? Why don't they just say that?
Edit: This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/?th=1 says specifically, "Compatable with the following Z-Wave certified Hubs: SmartThings, Pulse, Trane, Wink, Alexa..." Do I trust that?
Thanks for your feedback, it was incredibly helpful. So These are the switches I will get since the lights I got for my rooms are LED Dimmable. I'll get the smart things hub as well to interact between the switch and my echo, but what do I use to program all the details. For example how do I get alexa to recognize "bedroom 1" name when I talk to her and have her interact with it. Is there a software program I use to manage all these devices and name them, etc?
Also, my light switches do not have a ground since the house is older, so I'll have to have an electrician come out and figure out a way to install these switches
Setting up an automation system in your house requires 3 different areas:
I am being specifically vague when I say controlled appliances because this group is vast and varried. You can have smart light bulbs, smart light switches, smart wall outlets, smart thermostats, various sensors, security cameras, and the list goes on and on.
All of these appliances will have a communication system such as z-wave or wifi that allows it to connect to the hub and be controlled virtually.
These can be extremely expensive, but most have gotten relatively cheap. For instance, the light switches I have are about $40 each. So, for about $40 per room you can completely automate the lights of your entire house.
The Hub is simply a device that connects to all of the above appliances and allows you to control them virtually. I have a smartthigns hub. I really like it, but there are several other options that you can use. All have their benefits and drawbacks.
As said above, the main job of the hub is to be the connection/control point for all of your appliances. The secondary bit is that each hub has a control OS that you interface with as a controller for your system. This will take two forms. First form is an app you can install on a tablet or smartphone that will allow you to set up routines or directly control every single connected appliance from wherever you are in the world. The second form (not on every hub) is a simple programming interface that gives you powerful customizing options to how you want to control your system. If you can imagine it (and code it) you can do it, pretty much.
The controller group is also where the echo fits in. You don't need an echo, but it is an amazing addition. Typically having a smart system just meant you could control everything on cool customized timers, virtually from everywhere in the world, and from a centralized "remote" in your house instead of having to go to each device. With the echo you can skip the tablet "remote" all together and just speak to your house and it listens.
I highly recommend diving into the world of an automated system. It is only a couple hundred dollars to get started and you can slowly build your system out over time. Check out /r/homeautomation for some more info too.
Samsung smartthings hub is on sale on amazon for a great price, and then you can get a GE zwave dimmer to go with it. Perhaps this is controversial to say in the IFTTT sub but i would add the switch to google home directly from the smartthings hub, which allows you to talk more naturally about your lights and avoids having to hard code a bunch of variations in IFTTT.
If you have a 3 wire ran from the switch to the fan (white,black,red,ground) you can do some variation of what I did for my Fan/Light rooms.
This for the light control. Also This if you want it to match with the fan switch.
This for the fan control.
If you only have a 2 wire ran from the fan/light to the switch then you would have to do something more along the lines of what u/caddymac suggested.
Hope this helps and if you have anymore questions let us know.
Is that the same thing as this? But just branded for iris? If so, I may be interested!
They provide enough light but aren't super bright, I do have the option of putting another strip across (I only used half) to make it brighter but 1 should be enough. You can't beat the price: LEDs and Power Source . I originally was going to hold them up by zip ties, but the backing is sticky enough to stay on the wire shelf. I'm not sure how well it will stand up in the future but for now it's great.
Ok, so I'm about to embark on this project. I want to put the Hue strips behind my TV, but I need 2 strips, which is expensive and cumbersome. Here's what I've been able to find...
I purchased some item from Amazon. Here's what I got:
16 foot roll of RGB LED's: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YRT9IK/
12v RGB LED Power Amplifier: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081CZJGO/
12v Power Supply for LED Strip: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/
Here's what I plan on doing. I cut off the LED strips AFTER the Philips controller. That should leave 4 wires, the R, G, B and V+ wires. I connect that to the RGB Amplifier. I them connect the amplifier to the RGB strip and voila, everything should work, in theory. I haven't completed this project yet, I just got the items today. I plan on recording a video assembling everything together. There's a few videos on YouTube showing this as well, but they're vague. Hope this post helps!
here
I made sure to get the 3000k as they're a warmer softer light, as well as waterproof. I got myself one power adapter per box (each box was a single piece, so I ordered to strands of lights).
The lights are adhesive backed, but adhesives in the enclosure are a big no no, so I just used the adhesive to hold em in place while I placed them, and then siliconed them into place for good.
The lights are cool cause you can wire multiples together with available adapters and connectors. The strands come with a couple adapters too. But no power supply, so make sure you get one, or something equivalent.
Also, I wrapped the lights around the upper perimeter of my boxes, but they're definitely bright enough that I'm considering taking about 1/4 out. They're not overly bright, but it's more of a personal opinion, but my snakes don't seem to mind them. So you may not need more than one strand, depending on how much light you want in the enclosure.
OP could also use the Viltrox with an AC adapter to run on a power bank with an AC outlet like this one. The 24,000 mAh one would probably run a Viltrox for 10 hours, and the 40,200 mAh version would almost certainly well exceed that.
EDIT: Based on reviews, this one would probably be better.
12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM
You don’t need to match the 2A input. You just need it to take in AC power and and put out 12V 3A. This is what I got and no issues with it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/
The cord on that is almost 4ft. I don’t quite need a 6 ft cord because my EO is mounted right above an outlet that’s hidden by furniture.
Yes, standard 12v 3A with proper polarity from a reputable brand should work just fine.
/u/MattAces posted this one in a previous thread, I haven't confirmed this one would work or not, though.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM
AC Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/SoulBay-Universal-Switching-Selectable-Electronics/dp/B01N7RS0NG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506451136&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr0&amp;keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+27w
This would get you very close, it's slightly under powered. Do you have the specs on what the adapter is powering?
This one would also work, but it could supply too much amperage if the device is shorting or having other electrical issues.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506451264&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ac%2Fdc+power+adapter+12v+3a
Edit: Either way, you could replace the end with the one from your adapter if they do not fit, assuming you know how to crimp or preferably solder and shrink tube.
I ordered 2 of these to fill my 10' x 10' playspace https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017HQVOP4/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I ordered 5 boxes of these to attach them. 1 in each corner, and 1 in the middle of each tile. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001PLOM8Y/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I angled the pins so that they went all the way in and are sturdier.
For the lights it took 2.5 spools of this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSF64E6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also an adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKSI0S8/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And a remote to power it all on/off without having to plug it in over and over. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MHKCTLE/ref=ya_st_dp_summary
This is the one they sell for it, I don't think I'd have anything appropriate on hand. But thanks :)
This: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
With this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Canadian links, but they have them in other countries.
Very simple to setup - I just put it right next to the rods in the Detolf and went up and around.
Are you talking about the power supply for the Charsoon charger in the UAVFutures video? If so I also had the issue you have (as well as another issue where it killed one of my batteries by not balancing properly) I bought this power supply to replace the cheapo one it came with : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/
I pretty much immediately upgraded to an iCharger 106b+ though and only use the Charsoon as a battery tester. It's much nicer having something that can parallel charge and discharge as well as be more reliable to not kill my batteries.
I think yours has the double doors? I had a 16-18 gun cabinet with a single door. The door was the perfect width for this Molle seat back panel. I had to cut a corner for the lock mechanism and had it sewed by a local custom leather shop. Then I drilled and used rivets to attach it to the door. I have another cabinet that I added plywood shelves to. I just used double stick tape to stick plywood to the sides, then put a shelf on top, then stick on 2 more sides, then another shelf and repeat.
It sounds like you're going overboard on lighting. I just outfitted my new
saferesidential security cabinet with LED strips. The safe is 40" wide, 72" tall and 25" deep. I bought this two-pack of LED strips and this power adapter and a this 5-way power splitter. I installed one full strip minus 6 inches around the perimeter of the door, and I didn't need any more. I added a loop around the sides and top at the back of the safe only because I had a second strip of LEDs, not because it was necessary.Edit: I know it's impossible to judge brightness in a photo, but here's two I took of my safe. The single strip of LEDs facing away from the door provide sufficient light. The LEDs around the back edge add a ton of light, but the glare from looking at the LEDs cancels out a lot of the added brightness.
So basically I used a 16" wire wreath frame and wrapped tin foil around it to reflect the light better, and stuck on the LED Lights! They don't come with a power adapter so I bought this one.
Disabled gamer here. I have my own cab which is designed for someone of my short stature to use. I'd offer blueprints but we made it over a decade ago and I don't think it'd work for wheelchairs, anyway.
I can add a suggestion for the PC inside it, though. If you get a PC that boots up on power events, you can have a wireless remote control power socket handle booting up the cab and getting it ready to go. No futzing around with switches behind the cabinet or anything like that. I've got one of these and it works great, I click a button on the small remote control and a minute later I'm in my front-end and gaming.
I'd also suggest checking out my spreadsheet of PC games with cabinet support and accompanying video as they may be relevant. Steam has a lot of games which can work well with limited and rebindable controls, for both cabinets and disabilities alike... but a few landmines where games that look like they should work are a complete pain to configure.
Lastly, consider checking out AbleGamers, a nonprofit dedicated to doing exactly what you're doing -- adapting controls and game systems for disabled access.
Happy gaming!
OP, if you can't find a solution I got myself a pair of these and they work great. Just click them on before I'm about to start VR and you're good to go.
I got a set of these and they work well. Might be something to consider.
I got these.
There is less than no reason for the outlet part to be that big.
Hmm, that's weird. I haven't had an issue at all with a noise.
If I was having that issue, I'd probably get one of those cheap remote control outlet things. Then you could just click them on wirelessly when you want to fire up SteamVR. Not ideal though, if HTC had better customer service I'd tell you to try to exchange them for ones that work normally. But god knows that'll be more trouble than help.
I use these. The only problem with them is if the power goes out, they do not turn themselves back on. I don’t worry about this as my pumps are on a battery backup that will last ~90 hours before they die.
How about Etekcity rf controlled ac plugs?
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK
Before using those TPLink things, which are $35 per outlet, if you have HomeAssistant installed on a Raspberry Pi you can use the cheaper 433mhz remote controlled plugs + a radio for the Pi.
Here's a set of 3 plugs that I bought.
(Here is similar on amazon.ca, which probably will work)
and here's a radio (I've heard that the cheaper ones work less well, and you should find a "superheterodyne" one, which I can't find on amazon.ca -- maybe aliexpress or ebay if you can wait?)
and the rpi-rf home assistant configuration:
https://home-assistant.io/components/switch.rpi_rf/
Your suggested more expensive switch can probably be polled to see if they're on or off, and probably confirms a state change. This solution the communication is one way and hope-it-works. My experience is it is working most of the time - there is the occasional missed command.
may be you are looking for something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/
https://www.amazon.com/JTD-Auto-programmable-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B013F9JJ72
It is US though and it smart plug.
Alternatively, you could do something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Household-Appliances-Unlimited-Connections/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_421_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=DV89V83YHJHXVDBEVMD5
Either use one per machine or just get 1 and plug a power strip into it.
Number of machines has a few factors, basically will all boil down to the amp draw per machine. I would guess 2.5-3amps is probably a safe number to assume, and that's probably a pretty pessimistic number for the most part. If you have a 15A breaker, you could have 5 machines give or take on one circuit.
Realistically, most are probably in the 2A area. But give yourself some room and don't instantly max out a circuit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use these
I personally use a hook ( http://www.gethook.io , $50 USD), which works as a wifi to rf bridge allowing you to use Alexa to control very cheap outlets like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS
It's not perfect, I do have to repeat myself occasionally, but it's tremendously more reliable than the wemo switches I have. Those etekcity outlets frequently have coupon codes that will make them a good bit cheaper, but if you only need to control 1-2 outlets, the initial cost of the hook may still make it not very cost effective.
If you can't use a sensing power strip, you can do what I did with my HS5s. Get one of those remote controlled outlet units like this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484561260&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Remote+control+outlet
Then attach your studio monitor power cables get to a power strip, and plug the power strip into that outlet. That way you can use the remote control to turn them on and off. Just leave the power switch on your monitors turned on.
Similar to what neuromancer_pl said: I have a little arduino-based remote that controls all of my lighting, TV, and A/C unit (obviously not anymore.. but I may extend it with a relay to work with my space heater).
For the lamp controls I use a 433 MHz transmitter to replace the remotes that came with these outlets.
For the TV and AC remote part I have two IR LEDs to replace each respective stock remote (used a IR receiver to discover which encoding to use for each).
Finally a HC05 bluetooth module that lets me talk to the arduino through an android app I made.
My mother is a retired nurse, and if you know anyone who worked in healthcare, they will tell you the last place they want is a nursing home. She would likely die within a few weeks, absolutely no exaggeration. So we have a nice wheelchair ramp into her home, plenty of rails in her walk-in shower, a nice seat and plenty of room to maneuver her walker. She has a push-button recliner and a handy remote control to turn on her bedroom lights and heater.
She is disabled, so I have to help her dress and cook for her and frequently pick up after her, but her mind is sharp and she takes care of her finances. It's just random things she needs help with, like her hearing and lack of dexterity makes it impossible to use automated phone menus, stuff like that. Every fall we buy cracked pecans that she opens to extract nutmeats, which helps her retain some range of movement in her hands.
I live with her now after years of rehabilitation following hospital screw-ups (some sent her to the ICU with organ failures due to hospital/facility incompetence). She has a much better quality of life and, again, both of us know she would be long dead if she were relegated to a nursing home.
The floor lights are just three fixtures from Home Depot with a PAR20 LED spotlight bulb. They are pretty cool to the touch, so I think they're ok. I may just upgrade the lighting with dimmable smart bulbs. For the patio, I'm using a 35 watt Grow Light from Amazon. It's temporarily hung from a hurricane shutter rail. All lighting is remote controlled with these.
It takes reading of water pH, EC, and temperature, as well as air temperature and humidity.
You can adjust how often the reading are taken. The shortest interval is 1 minute.
In the software interface, you can have set points. So for example, pH should be kept between 6.5-6.7. The system will automatically add up or down pH solution to keep that in balance.
Another example would be air temperature. You could say that the air temperature should be between 72-75F and it will turn on fans, air conditioners, or heaters to keep that at the correct value.
All external devices like heaters, fans, lights, etc. are controlled wirelessly from the Hydrobot using commonly found 433mhz wireless outlets like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/
Yeah, internet control will cost you.
I've used these around the house with good results. Local remote control only--might work for you.
Another option to switch the lighthouses on and off is to get some remote controlled sockets - something like these.
Hi there! I have used these types of switches in my home for about a year now and have only had a good experience! However, I have also always been somewhat perplexed about the sheer number of these various branded and non-branded switches available on various sites, that all basically seem to be made of the the same components. This isn't something you really see very often here in the US, mainly due to patent laws. I'm thinking that might really be the reason these switches, and so many other electronic devices from China, exist in the overlapping way they do - I'm thinking it's very likely able to happen due to poorly enforced or non-existent patent laws. That's my main guess anyway... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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As for my experience with the setup and performance of these switches, I initially came across them out of the necessity of finding a wall switch that did not require a common neutral wire. My home was built in 1950 and half of the wiring in my home does not have a ground wire and most of the circuits are not wired with a common neutral line, which has been the norm/requirement here for most everyone likely since sometime in the 1980s. Unfortunately, most WiFi connected "smart" switches/devices all require a common neutral wire. These have been a lifesaver for me! I found my switches on Amazon and have only purchased "Funry" and "Livolo" branded switches, the versions that work via RF signal. Originally, it seemed that was all they made (the RF kind), but as this IoT/home automation thing has really become such a big market noticed they started producing WiFi and Bluetooth switches, using the same housings and touch panels/exterior components.
Which leads me to my next thought - and I have nothing to base this premonition on, but I have a feeling / feel it can only be prudent to not assume that all of these switches, while appearing nearly identical on the outside, are of the same quality and same technologies on the inside. I have nothing to base this on, and most of these devices aren't certified by the various engineering certification groups (like UL here in the US) anyway and I'm sure some people would say to stay clear of them altogether, but inevitably having spent a lot of my budget on cheaper consumer electronic products made in China/other neighboring regions that are sold online, I've seen this to be the case. However, all I can speak to is the quality of the products from the two manufacturers I mentioned above and my experience has been positive. I mean, I felt they were at least well-made enough that I wasn't completely terrified to install them in my home. I've had no trouble with the switch mechanism itself, and the tempered glass panels do feel and look solid/of quality.
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As for trying my best to help provide insight on your three bulleted needs laid out above - I do think it's possible for you to achieve each of those wants; however, I'd say my answer probably echos what I rambled on about above (lol), that the various functions and features can really be very different from one manufacturer to another on these switches, even though they may look the same, at least if you mean right out of the box. With a little bit of configuration (and sometimes a lot), you can connect basically anything to anything these days, one way or another. One problem with not going with a "name-brand" here is that you're also less-likely to get "name-brand" software/apps for the devices. But that may not matter. As I wrote above, the units I've purchased have all been RF-controlled models, so I had to buy a small hub/controller to work with RF. Prior to this Google Home/Alexa explosion, I'd already purchased tons of these wireless plugs/switches and had them connected to devices/lights all over my home, so buying a cheap RF hub and these affordable glass wall switches allowed me to turn what I already had into Google/Alexa-connected devices affordably, instead of having to start from scratch (just throwing that out there if you have anything similar in your setup). I imagine you're wanting just the straight WiFi switches? I can't give any feedback on the particular WiFi version of these switches, but I guess I can say if you find any on eBay from the two brands I mentioned, I'd feel OK about it for my home.
They likely come from the manufacturer with some junky/not so great, proprietary software/"app" that you'll have to download and use just to get the devices setup anyway, but if you can get them successfully connected to Google Home (or Alexa), then yes, you can turn them on and off independently and can also assign them to groups, for group control. There are dozens and dozens of apps/interfaces out there now to control IoT devices, so I'd have to say yes this is possible. Out of the box, using the manufacturer's app? I don't know... but yes, totally possible.
My RF versions, yes. I imagine the WiFi version of these likely can be Google Assistant connected, one way or another, if they're not right out of the box. But I can't totally confirm this one.
Now this question... based on my working knowledge of these and other similar low-end devices and how they operate and are built, it's quite possible you would not have dimming control with any variety of these switches. I think you'd really need to be certain to buy a model that clearly states it has dimming functionality. I don't believe the majority of these are designed for that - only for on and off. In fact, I have no dimming control on any WiFi or RF-controlled light switch in my home - only on WiFi bulbs I've purchased with dimming capabilities. It seems to me that dimming "smart" switches are only available from some of the more [recognized] name-brand manufacturers and their more expensive, proprietary lighting systems, pretty much all requiring some sort of proprietary hub to control them.
Not really. Those power strips are built as a unit and can't really be modified without basically starting over from scratch. You could use one of these to control your outlets, but I don't think they will all fit in one power strip.
Not sure if you mean a smart plug as meaning a plug which can keep track of things like how much power is consumed or if you just need an outlet which can be switched on and off.
If it is the later (just swtiching an outlet on and off) I've been pretty succesful with my project (so far) of using these Etekcity remote outlets which routinely go on sale @ Amazon.com : http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-ZAP-5LX-Auto-Programmable-Function/dp/B00DQELHBS
Mixed with the knowledge gained from this article: http://www.msilverman.me/2014/01/interfacing-with-remote-controlled-outlets/ it is pretty simple, safe and most importantly to me: cheap to interface the outlets to a wifi enabled device.
Definitely not plug and play by any means but there is no mains voltages to have to worry about fooling around with and if you get your ducks lined up outlets can be very very cheap compared to outlets which come with WiFi connectivity which seem to go from $30/piece to almost a hundred bucks a pop.
EDIT: for a more out of the box solution you might check out Connor Wolf's video here : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjry28Ym7kI where he fiddles with a outlet that is capable of measuring power consumption... If I remember he does do a little work on the software side of things so that he doesn't have to use the smartphone app provided with the outlet.
Mine are on the celling but with wireless sockets. Make shure you don't move them while switching the modes or you'll have to recalibrate.
THESE ARE AN ABSOLUTE GAME CHANGER
Hook these up to a bunch of lamps. Turn them on right when your alarm goes off. Also useful for getting sleepy and really wishing that light was off.
I did the same except with these, slightly better per outlet cost but I use the other 4 around my house. If you just want them for lighthouses might as well only get two.
You don't even need a hub to make that work. Here is the kit you need:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JJY0S4G/
You'll also want the wall adapter for the remote.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JZRAFEA/
The remotes have a 10 year battery life and the battery is easy to change.
I'm a big fan of Lutron. Their in-wall and plug-in dimmers can work without a hub. Then if you eventually decide you want Homekit and other such features, you can easily add in a hub.
In-wall dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Plug-in dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0
https://www.amazon.com/Basic-Wireless-Light-Switch-Kit/dp/B005B0AY0K
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_37?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467694453&amp;sr=8-37&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=wireless+light+switch
https://m.canadiantire.ca/#/products/productDetail/0527544P/false/false/false?utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&amp;utm_medium=SearchVoice&amp;utm_source=RatingsAndReviews&amp;utm_content=Default&amp;quantity=1
The Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer does not need a neutral connection and can be controlled from a very small RF remote, or from a smart phone using Staples Connect, the Wink hub, or Lutron's own bridge & app.
Full disclosure, I work for Lutron and wrote the software inside that family of dimmers.
So tempted. If this is the right one, the Lutron Caseta Dimmer itself is like $60 at Amazon
I just wish they weren't purging the Wink v1 and gave us a v2 instead.
ninja edit
So it sounds like I'd need to buy this from Amazon...
Then wire the switch itself in place of my current 'line' switch (in the rear entryway which does not have a neutral available), and the remote in the place of the 'load' switch (dining room that does have neutral available), correct? What needs to be done with the wires that will have been formerly used to supply the 'line' switch?
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
http://www2.meethue.com/en-us/productdetail/philips-hue-dimmer-switch
Put in any light fixture and bulbs you want and use a Lutron Caseta in wall dimmer switch. First light switch is about 100 bucks,
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-BDG-PKG1W-Caseta-Wireless-Selected/dp/B00MXCRAX8/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958038&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
This includes the Smart hub needed to make it internet accessible.
Each additional switch thereafter is around 50$.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-150-Watt/dp/B00KLAXFQA/ref=sr_1_2?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
You can also purchase them with remotes for $60
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
and you can purchase plug in versions that allow you to control standard lamps and such ($60)
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Caseta-Wireless-Dimmer-300-watt/dp/B00JJY1QG0/ref=sr_1_7?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482958148&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta
Lutron Caseta is not only compatible with alexa, ("alexa turn my living room to 50%" "alexa turn off my bed room" "alexa turn my living room to 10%" etc.) it is also fully homekit enabled. ("Hey siri, set my chamber to 2%" ) and utilizing the home app on your iDevice, you can set up schedules and such, for example my bedroom light turns on to 10% 30min before my alarm, and up to 50% 5 minutes before my alarm. This really helps me wake up on time.
Lutron caseta work great. worth the money
https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505917955&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta+dimmer
This device wires into one switch. The second switch is a remote control that can either be mounted in a box (no wiring, it's RF) or used like any other remote. I saw it on a This Old House video.
https://www.amazon.com/Caseta-Wireless-Lighting-Ceiling-P-PKG1W-WH/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527002725&amp;sr=1-3&amp;refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2800162011
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBtFpmDkQus
Is there already existing power wiring for a z-wave switch? If not, you might need to wallmount a battery operated MiniMote or something like that.
If you're not stuck on Z-Wave you might want to look at Lutron's dimmers with their Pico Remote which can be mounted in a low voltage single gang old work bracket and covered with a decora plate for a nice looking wireless install. Same with their connected bulb remote which I'm using for a couple of Cree Connected bulbs.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=86N3WGD52NQ4GTPN2MDD
You'll find the single gang bracket for the Pico Remote in the related items.
Edit: I realize there are a few Z-Wave battery operated buttons, however if you want something that looks more like a lighting controller, something geared more towards a high WAF, I think the Lutron products are your best bet.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/?coliid=IH4X85Z8CQ1KM&amp;colid=21XFU1YN0E3BW&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
This is only splashproof, so you may want to put it in a protected location or in a bigger control box, or go with the GE version.
Had this in my save for later list. Sold out now but maybe you can find something like it else where.
This is what I use for my dryer. It was the only energy monitor I could find for the high amperage.
Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GbEYAbZ9F3XTS
The Aeotec ZW078-A is the cheapest 240V relay.
(There are DIY solutions but this is the cheapest, certified (e.g. UL, MET, CSA, etc.) product.)
Looking through the options I can't really find an affordable, convenient option for this that wouldn't be a chinese product with little support and that wouldn't be a huge headache.
Without knowing about the specific family of home control/ app economy you use its hard to recommend any of them at all but I can tell you what I would do for the highest quality experience and ability for expansion.
Buy a contactor like this. Put it in a box, put the plug into the box, put a light switch on the wall, tie it into the coil of the contactor. Get a generic wifi light switch that works on 110 that ties into Google or Amazon that's cheap and easily replaced.
This is the best full product I could find but it's zwave so you'd need a hub, it costs twice as much as putting a contactor in and you have to hardwire it anyway.
To be fair though I'm in industrial automation so my solution to most problems is to put relays in it
It's not an outlet, but Aeon makes a heavy duty z-wave "switch" which will do the trick.
https://smile.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W?sa-no-redirect=1
It will do 40A
My I ask what you plan on using this for? If it's just monitoring, there are very easy options. If you need remote on/off control, then this will do it, but you're limited to only that.
I bought an Aeotec heavy duty switch and an extra dryer power cord. I then unhooked the original cord from the dryer, wired that into the switch and then ran the new dryer wire from the switch to the dryer.
Switch:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W
Is your litterbox enclosed? Because a good option if you're of the tinkering type would be to take one of those sewer tubes and attaching it to the top of the enclosure, then running the other end to the nearest window, attaching it to a window fan set to blow outward (towards the great outdoors) and insulating the window part with some foam board to save on the energy bill. The easy way to control the fan would be to unplug and replug it. A better way would be to use a smart outlet adapter to control it with your smart device, and the best option would be to set up a sensor that detects when the box has been used and waits until the cat leaves and turns on the fan until manually turned off/time limit is reached.
edit 1: make sure you use some sort of fencing to cover the hole for the sewer pipe, we don't want cat nuggets :P
"Alexa, order echo dot", "No x2".
"Alexa, order TP Link Smart Plug", "No x2".
Log into Amazon and add these two items manually to cart to check out...
Echo Dot (black): https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DFKC2SO
TP-Link Smart Plug: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734
Items (2): $79.98
Shipping & handling: $0.00
Alexa : -$12.90
Alexa: -$20.00
TP-Link Promo: -$24.99
Total before tax: $22.09
These ones do: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734
this is the wifi plug. No it is not for outdoors, but I rigged something up like this to make it work. Seems to be holding up well so far!!!
I picked up two TP-Link HS100 plugs and two HS110 plugs on sale for $80 combined and love them. The HS100 (same as HS110, but without power monitoring features) is currently $23.95 on Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Amazon-Electronics-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734
The control software may not be as powerful as what is available for the WeMo, but it works well for me. It includes remote network control, timers, schedules, etc. They also have native integration with the Echo, so there is no need for IFTTT. On the other hand, if you want to use IFTTT, look elsewhere, because they don't currently support it. The software also doesn't support plug groups, but the Alexa software does, so that solved that problem for me.
Setup was an absolute breeze and they have been rock solid. They also retain their settings when unplugged and moved.
Whatever you buy, it will probably work with most devices that have a "hard" power switch instead of a "soft" switch. Pull cord light switch? Yep, pretty much any of them will work.
I have the TP Link ones (this) but there are several brands. I have one regular and one energy monitoring. Just make sure it can do 15A if you’re going to use it with an AC.
you can get a 'smart plug' for $30 that will do this.. no hub or special bulb required.
tplink smartplug
I have a mixed environment. I have several z-wave devices because I wanted the aeon multisensors and decided to try the switches while I was at it. I also have 20ish Insteon switches and the usb plm. For switches I would pick Insteon 10/10 times again. When I bought the switches in 4-packs it came out to $37/switch putting it roughly in line with z-wave for price. The difference that sold me was for that price I got instant device feedback on state change instead of waiting for the weird way z-wave has to do it because of patents and them not wanting to license it. I also had a much simpler time setting it all up.
I have owned a few Insteon items including the plm for about 8 years, with the plm finally failing about a year ago. I've read that they used to use crappy capacitors but the new ones are built with better components. So far the new plm is working like a charm. I've also got the old one around to try swapping out capacitors to see if that fixes it. The grand majority of switches I put in about 3 years ago with no issues yet.
For smart plugs I tried some aeon z-wave plugs but eventually settled on https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734. You don't need to register it with their site to be able to access data from it locally, it is reliable which the z-wave ones were not, and I could easily load data into influxdb to view in grafana.
I still have yet to try the Insteon water sensors, but for any other sensor type I would go z-wave. price+features make that a no brainer.
As far as the company going anywhere, I met a dev that worked there a year ago and it sounded like they suck at making software for their cloud offering, but their hardware business is still going very strong.
I'm using a TP-Link HS100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/
They were cheap when I ordered them a while back. It's been working fine.
This isn't really a tech support subreddit, FYI.
Either way, a lot of wifi enabled "smart" devices like bulbs and outlets (such as TP Link's Kasa line) actually use their servers (the cloud) to control devices. This means that the devices can be controlled from anywhere as long as you have internet, the "smart" device has internet, and their company's servers are working. I just turned my bedroom lights on and off and I'm 15 miles from home.
Here is an example device.
The downside is that if you aren't connected to the internet, or if the company stops supporting the product, your "smart" devices cease to be "smart" and are just expensive dumb devices.
Edit: Devices that have a hub often use more local methods of communication like Zigbee, Z-Wave, Bluetooth, etc. That's not to say that the "hub" device can't be internet connected and controlled away from home, but if you want a single outlet that you can control away from home you likely want to avoid the extra cost of a hub anyway.
I'm running a TP-Link HS100 and it's been great! It was easy to connect to my wifi, and the mobile app is easy to use. It also retained all settings through a power outage a couple of months ago; as soon as the power returned it turned itself back on.
Next step is to add a IP cam to the tent, so I don't have to stick my head in there so often.
Christmas lights and then something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=pd_sim_60_4?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0178IC734&amp;pd_rd_r=5AQH7B77TK4GH3HW6JSG&amp;pd_rd_w=wCz3d&amp;pd_rd_wg=0Aak8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=5AQH7B77TK4GH3HW6JSG
You don't need a hub for this
I just got one of these for my birthday. I have a string of white christmas lights on my porch that I can now turn on and off using the Echo.
You download the app on your phone to get it setup and then add the skill to Echo and say "Alexa turn on the porch lights" and it works. Really easy to setup.
https://smile.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1479819310&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tplink+smart+plug
I'm thinking of getting something like:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503112143&amp;sr=8-15&amp;keywords=amazon%2Becho&amp;th=1
For my current soundbar that way it works with Alexa, What do you think?
I just use a smart outlet. I have TP-Link one that is rated for 15A, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_eNk4DbR27T919
Thanks for the input. Like this switch and this outlet?
Just getting back to this thread. Holy shit, you are amazing!
A) First time hearing about Ride. Awesome job!
B) Didn't realize the IFTTT support spawned from this thread. Even more awesome.
I appreciate your hard work... Sending some beer money your way :-D You deserve it because this will probably end up saving my life. Or at least prevent a couple broken bones.
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Also, being in the US, I ordered a slightly different smart socket, and also a cheap broken-screen ipod touch so I can use it to cut off the charging while I'm away.
I am very tempted to make a youtube video about this whole thing when I get it set up.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
Works with Google Assistant/Google Home.
"hey google...turn on the vape"
I don't know exactly how I did this, but I just got a TP Link Smart Plug for $8.58 with tax.
I asked Alexa to re-order a cheaper smart plug mini that I had ordered earlier today, thinking why not, you get a credit for your first Alexa re-order, right? And instead she offered me the TP Link Deal. I am really confused.
Ninja edit: Apparently there are some glitches going on.
This is the one I bought, it's seventeen bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And here's the heater I've got pointed at my feet right now, it was a whopping $28:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TKDQ5C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This is pretty much the exact same setup I was planning on doing in my bathroom remodel that is currently in process. I was going to plug my amp into this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Let me know how your setup goes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/
$29.99 is pretty much the standard price, however, as with anything on Amazon, that price varies widely at times. I use camelcamelcamel.com to track a number of items, including these, and pick them up a couple at a time whenever the price drops to $22 or lower. For Cyber Monday, you could get one on sale by ordering through Alexa, and that deal was posted in this sub. Also watch the price on the 2-pack, sometimes that's a better deal per unit.
They've been consistent performers for me, and one nice feature is that they remember their settings through power outages. Their biggest annoyance is their size; you pretty much lose an entire double outlet unless you plug them into a short extension cord or a power strip. They also don't link to IFTTT, which I know is important to some people.
Check out TP link smart switches
and if that's not really what you're looking for I also like These mini wifi smart plugs
Hope this helps!
(Apologies for the formatting I'm on mobile)
I have two switches in my apartment and love them while they are single pole, you can wire it into a multipole, just don't ever the other switch. It was easy for us because one switch was on the kitchen counter behind the coffee machine, and the other ended up behind some shelving.
I wired it myself and I have very very limited knowledge on the subject. I think you can set a timer, or at the very least you can use your cell phone to turn it off from the bed.
Also these are hubless, but you can get a hub if you want one.
Yes, you need a smart bulb for every bulb in the fixture.
If you have a neutral in the switchbox (IEC code in America since 2011), you can add a smart switch. Z-Wave, Zigbee smart switches require a hub. Kasa makes a Wifi smart switch as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536589791&amp;sr=1-1&amp;refinements=p_n_amazon_certified%3A16741513011
That's a switch for power outlet. A light switch needs to go in a box in a wall for light switches.
Such a device looks like https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU
Are the outlets connected to switches?
If not you could use something like this
If they are you can use something like this
> tplink wifi switched
I like this, so far this seems great, and it does state "single pole" for switch type in the Amazon descriptions so should work I think since I only have two wires
I too am looking to do this (happy I found this).
I was having my gas fireplace serviced this morning and asked about it.
My wall switch for my fireplace has 2 switches. 1 switch is a low power switch to turn on the fireplace, while the 2nd is if I wanted to install a blower.
The guy said since it's a low power switch that want to control I would need to tap into the extra outlet (where there is already a constant flow of 110 amps) and use a Rib Enclosed Power Relay (about $20) to bring the constant power over to the outlet that i would like to control to light my fireplace.
This is the the RIB Enclosed Power Supply he recomended >
https://www.johnstonesupply.com/storefront/product-view.ep?pID=L39-100
and I was looking at this outlet on Amazon (as I don't already have a Home Automation Hub in my Home and can't think of a reason to install one just for this).
TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Control Your Fixtures From Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS200)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3K3N85T4MQW0J&amp;coliid=IR8FUGM8EHTY&amp;psc=1
Let us know how it works out.
I've recently installed 4 of these, and will be installing 2 more: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480206517&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=tp+link+smart+plug.
They are quick, easy, and work well with Alexa. The TP-Link app is easy to use as well.
I was thinking about a simple outlet for the TV/stereo but the harmony hub looks interesting. Thanks for the tip.
There's a bit of a problem with the light switch. I was thinking about something like this, but there aren't any available in Germany (The TP link switch costs 100€, instead of $40-50).
Hue doesn't make them. The ones I was looking at were made by TPlink, [Kasa](Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch by TP-Link - Control Lighting from Anywhere, Easy In-Wall Installation (Single-Pole Only), No Hub Required, Works With Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XZxdBbTX77TQH).
this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Try TP-Link. About $ 28 as well but very good and compatible with just about everything. Of course the dimmer is a bit more expensive.
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Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079775ZZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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The user guide and other PDFs are in the description.
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I've had 3 regular switches and 1 dimmer installed for about 2 months now.
I don't get a notification if you don't reply to me.
An ohm meter is typically part of a multi-meter. There's around $15. If you read near 0 ohms, that means the wire is good. A broken wire has infinite ohms (or the display remains blank).
A network toner starts at ~$20 and specifically designed to trace network cables through walls. You can also utilize the alligator clips to attach individual wires and tone the other end. If there's no tone, that means you have a broken wire.
Notice I keep saying wire. Yes, I mean each individual wire of the 4 pairs. So you'd need to trace all 8.
This is a lot of work when you can just replace the cable for pennies (if you're cutting and running from a spool).
Remember you get what you pay for, but since you're just trying this out I found some cheap options on amazon:
Volt meter
3 position switch Keep in mind you need to make sure you match your inputs and outputs to the voltage the PLC I/O wants (120v AV or 24v DC)
Indicator light you can use as an output to turn on/off
Looks like the PLC wants 24vDC power so you'll need something like this to switch your 120 power from the wall.
You don't need a super expensive multimeter to work on bikes. The $6 one from Harbor freight will work fine, but the lead are short and the wire inside is thin.
I often use the AstoAI one from Amazon that runs about $11. I picked this one because I didn't need a crazy meter and It had a decent clamshell case for it.
I combine the meter with this kit . . . super sharp / low profile meter leads are a GOD send.
As for your connectors. I've never used those personally, but the waterproof bullet insert type that have a male/female end are often found on bikes from the factory.
Typically, the black wire is negative and the black wire with a white stripe is positive.
However, I wouldn't want to do work like this without a multimeter ($10 on Amazon or maybe $10-$15 at Walmart), and with a multimeter, you can just directly find out which wire is positive and which is negative without any guesswork.
Oh, they are way cheaper than that in places. And also, you can get a simple LED test light for a few bucks. Only tells if there's power, but it's often enough to do the job.
EDIT: LOL this is the el cheapo beater I got: https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6 It's all you need!
You should. You never know when it'll come in handy.
This one is a whole $11 and is probably good enough for what you or I will ever use one for.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ISAMUA6/
$14 multimeter.
Overall electrical troubleshooting is not super difficult. In general you’re measuring if the ground wire (the negative wire) has continuity from the headlamp socket to the vehicle chassis which is common with the negative terminal of the battery.
The ground wires on cars are bolted to the vehicle chassis. So somewhere near your headlights there are ground wires bolted to the car. If those bolted connections are loose, corroded or the wires are damaged, then the headlights won’t work.
On the positive side of the circuit it gets more complicated, but you would start by measuring both sides of the headlight fuses in the under hood fuse box and also listen to hear if the headlight relay clicks on. On many cars you can swap the low beam and high beam relays to test. Then you would check for 12 volts at the correct pin of the headlight.
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Light Switch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AzXtDb8NM8BQF
Like others have said, the issue is more with space in the box behind the unit than it is side to side once you break off the heatsink tabs on the appropriate side. Here are a couple thoughts from my experience installing some a couple days ago:
This one does double tap:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511215435&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Ge+zwave+switch&amp;dpID=41orYO6Z%252BWL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.
You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.
If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.
Switch
Remote
Aeotech Remote
Do you mean something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R
I wouldn't recommend WiFi smart switches. Maybe one or two, sure, but you should try to keep your WiFi devices to a minimum for best WiFi performance.
Look at getting a hub and z-wave switches/dimmers. GE makes some good ones, switch and dimmer. Z-wave devices form a mesh and talk to each other on a completely separate wireless band than WiFi, so it won't hurt your WiFi performance.
SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540989501&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&amp;psc=1
GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540989582&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=z-wave+switch
GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540989582&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&amp;th=1
GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540989718&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch
ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540990126&amp;sr=1-12&amp;keywords=z-wave+lock
Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540990160&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener
Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540990254&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=echo+show
That's about all I can think of at the moment.
If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:
I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
Great applications for door open/close sensors:
Great Application for Motion Sensors
The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
Most people use the Aotech Zwave dongle here: https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259191&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aotech+zstick&amp;dpID=41%252BuCNE13iL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
You could also get a combination Zwave/Zigbee dongle for even less: https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-CECOMINOD016164-Linear-HUSBZB-1/dp/B01GJ826F8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259245&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=zigbee+dongle&amp;dpID=41GzEBEgWSL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Alot of people start with Zwave or Zigbee controlled lights, but most people end up with Zwave switches instead, because humans need to also turn those devices on and off. The easiest Zwave switches/dimmers to acquire are the GE Line of Jasco switches, which are sold by https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537259343&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=ge+wave&amp;dpID=51rDfQfpEAL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Do you think you'll use the features of the Hue bulbs? Like do you need the different colors or are you just looking to remotely control the lights?
I originally went with LIFX but decided that I didn't like the idea of having to replace every light bulb in my house with smart bulbs. Instead I've been opting for the GE Z Wave Plus switches and I've been loving them.
This way it doesn't matter what bulb is used, the whole switch is smart.
Why not just get a zwave dongle for your ha server and then a zwave ge switch?
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Z-Stick-Z-Wave-create-gateway/dp/B00X0AWA6E
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Have had this setup running for about 2 years now. I use the dimmers as well. I run HA in a docker on an unraid server without issues having it pickup the zwave stick.
The Z-Wave system is designed for interoperability, with management by a local hub that reaches out to the cloud as necessary. Hence there are many manufacturers, competitive pricing, interchangeable components, flexible control modalities. Also, a huge range of sensors, modules, controllers, locks, remote controls, and thermostats in addition to switches.
Wi-Fi smart devices are focused on ease of installation. Without standardized interfaces, the only way to offer remote control is through cloud management. Configuration and automation could be provided through a switch-hosted web server, but since the whole point is remote control and Echo/GH integration - and since the manufacturer has an eye on your data and your possible future income stream - the cloud solution wins. Wi-Fi power requirements means that in general these devices must be hardwired.
Non-cloud Kasa support requires an always-on computer running node.js, with manual device installation and static IP addresses everywhere. This is only an issue if TP-Link abandons the product or starts charging, in which case you have to decide whether it's worth the hassle...
I have a bunch of GE/Jasco switches and dimmers and one each of Leviton and Evolve - and also door/window sensors, motion sensors, thermostat, door lock, lamp modules, remotes, wall controllers, and garage door sensor.
The switches are all pretty much indistinguishable. GE/Jasco and HomeSeer 3-ways require a proprietary companion switch but you can dim from the companion and up always=on, down=off. Zooz and Inovelli 3-ways use your existing remote switch but no remote dimming and remote setting is random.
And the 14294 Dimmer switches for $30.09
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/
I've only dipped my toe in HA myself. I have one of these that works quite reliably in conjunction with an Echo and a Wink hub:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C
Note that this is a dimmer; you may/probably want just a simple switch, but GE has one of those, too.
There are also WiFi switches that don't require a hub if you don't want the hub.
zwave
zigbee
If you are eventually going to get more home automation products, than I’d suggest getting a Smartthings hub, and some [GE smart dimmers](https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_60_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=0QQMBN11VJPV61HY9D3P
). This is what I have and it works fine with my Harmony remote.
I'm a big fan of the GE wall switches. Dimmer Rocker Model
This one (Belkin WEMO) is WiFi and works with Alexa.
This one (GE Z-Wave) is Z-Wave and works with Alexa.
Assuming you have SmartThings (based on the /r), you can use any Z-wave or Zigbee switch. I've tried multiple (reputable) brands, based on what's on sale, and my experience has been they're all pretty much the same. But all mine look like modern paddle switches, there are other options out there.
It's debatable, but I'd call the 'gold standard' to be the GE switches. I was just providing a link to them in a thread yesterday and noticed they were on sale for $33, which is a damn good price. Looks like they rolled out an updated version so they're discounted, and personally I don't think the upgrades mean much. I just picked up 4 more, because... why not.
When those aren't on sale I've been going to Zooz. I like their small company attitude and they have terrific customer support. And they frequently have sales. You can get them on Amazon, but the sales are on their website.
These are the types of wall plates that I use. Easy to find in single, 2-, 3-, and even 4- gang. I have a custom made 7-gang at my house, so everything I've bought since was done to match that style.
But again, all these are because I wanted modern paddle switches and the "decora" style wall plates. You can get smart switches in traditional rockers, or modern version like the Caseta switches (which still use the decora shape).
Yes. You can name the switches and control them by individual switch or control the entire room.
I use these: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01MUCZA1C/
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W
That one is a big boy of 40 Amps!
Picked it up on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1517711288&amp;sr=1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65
This is the fan I use and this is the timer it runs on also.
You don't need a "night light", you want your snake to have darkness at night. Light and heat should be from two separate sources, and make sure your heat source is always controlled by a thermostat. If your room does not receive ambient lighting from a window, etc. you can use something as simple as a clamp lamp with an led light bulb screwed into it, plugged into an outlet timer. As long as the light is not overly bright (grow lights or aquarium fixtures can be too bright) and your snake has a place(s) to seek shelter this will work fine.
There grow lights I purchased on Amazon. I have a timer set up to give them more light during the winter months.
Yeah, so most cannabis plants , except for autoflowers, are what’s called “photo-period” where their growth is determined by the light schedule, so we basically have to recreate natural patterns of sunlight.
During the first stage , Vegetative stage, you want to run your lights on 18 hours, off 6. During this phase, you train your plant to grow the way you want it to. See: Low-Stress Training, Supercropping, Mainlining, etc. the plant does not create flowers during this stage. I always flip my plants into flower mode whenever my plants are a little under half the size I want them to grow to, as they can double in size or more during flower.
To put your plants into flower mode, you just switch the light schedule to 12 hours on, 12 hours off. Flowering times vary based on strain, but average is about 8-9 weeks of flower before harvest.
You can get a digital timer for your lights on amazon for cheap. This is what I use in all of my tents.
So I don’t know exactly how much I’ve spent on my beardie since he was given to me with almost everything I needed to care for him, but I can give you the basics.
First off, for the flooring you can use paper towels to start, or contact cabinet paper that can be found at a dollar tree. I don’t think tile is that expensive, but if you’re unable to get some at the moment those work just fine. I also suggest covering the back and sides of the tank so the beardie doesn’t see its reflection and get stressed
You’ll need at least one hide on the cooler side, which can be made from something as simple as a small cardboard box with a hole cut in it or some bricks that are arranged into a cave-like hide
A basking area can be made from bricks purchased at Lowe’s or Home Depot, or if you choose to use any driftwood/rocks you find just make sure you clean them properly
Calcium powder is also extremely important to help your beardie not develop MBD. I’m part of a Facebook bearded dragon group that suggests this brand sprinkled over greens/bugs three times a week: https://www.chewy.com/repashy-superfoods-calcium-plus/dp/166276 I poke some holes in the paper lid with a toothpick to create a shaker-type deal so I’m not wasting any calcium
I think one of the most expensive parts is the UVB light since they can get pretty pricey, and since they need to be changed every six months. Here’s an 18”, along with a fixture that could be used, but obviously with a longer tank you’ll need a longer size: https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-t8-reptisun-100-uvb/dp/126590 https://www.amazon.com/GE-Fluorescent-Included-Workbench-16466/dp/B000HJ75PW again, I usually stay away from reptile brands for things such as fixtures because the cheaper version works better and lasts longer. The T8 bulb needs to be hooked into the tank, which I use zip ties to the lid but Velcro to the side also works, as long as it’s 12” away from the basking area
Heat lamp with dimmer: https://www.chewy.com/flukers-clamp-lamp-dimmer-85-in/dp/129140
Pack of 90w flood lights (make sure they’re halogen, not LED): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-90-Watt-PAR38-Halogen-Indoor-Outdoor-Flood-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-466268/205541724
Digital temp gun: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-774-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00837ZGRY
Light timer for both lights: https://www.amazon.com/Century-Heavy-Digital-Programmable-Timer/dp/B00MVF16JG
Vet bills and fecal tests can be pricey as well, depending on where you live. My last vet appointment with mine, which did include a test for parasites, cost around $300
While I don’t know how much I’ve spent on my beardie, I can safely estimate it’s $700+, give or take a bit. One of the most expensive is buying the greens and bugs for him. I’m growing a garden to feed him but since it’s not ready yet, I have to constantly buy him collards, turnip and mustard greens, along with various fruits and veggies which can go bad very quickly. I’m in the process of looking into buying his superworms online where you can get a better deal, but at the moment I’m paying 100 for $10 at my local exotic pet shop, which he goes through quickly.
I don’t know how old you are, but if you say you’re not old enough to properly take care of a reptile I would wait a few years or so until you get another. Bearded dragons, while more of a beginner reptile than others, still require a lot of time and effort to make sure they stay healthy. I would recommend doing a lot research throughout the next few months (look at multiple sources, don’t just listen to people at a pet store because often they don’t know what they’re talking about), and if possible, perhaps slowly start gathering the needed supplies in order to properly care for one
I hope I covered everything since reddit refreshed and deleted my first response before I finished, but if you have any more questions you can always message me (:
I use these programmable timers for my iguana and turtle lamps. Each timer can control 2 devices and support 8 daily on/off cycles. Great for fish tanks, too FYI.
You don't need to spend a lot of money to accomplish what you want. Just get as many of these cheap basic timers as you need, one per schedule. Say you want your lights on at certain times but everything else on at a different time, all you need is 2 of these, and plug in a cheap power strip to the timer so you can hook up as many appliances as you need to the timer. Not sure why you would even consider spending so much on just a timer...
https://amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVF16JG
Your previous post mentioned that this started after day light savings time. Have you considered just putting her to bed at her regular (before the time change) time? Then maybe adjusting bed time by 5 or 10 minutes every night to make it an easier adjustment for her?
Also, I let my kids stay up as late as they want but only if they are in their bed reading. This goes for all three of them (11, 7, and 2.5) and has always worked wonders for keeping them in the bed. They usually fall asleep on their own within 30 minutes or so. We have these lights strung up in the toddlers room on a switch timer so they automatically turn on at bedtime and off 30 min later. Gives him enough light to look through his book (his current favorite is "Too Many Carrots") and we don't have to risk waking him up to turn them off later. The 7 year old has a cute cat shaped silicone light, which she adores, and the 11 year old uses a head lamp from our camping gear.
i use those basic ass dial timers , i think you can get one for like 10 $ mine has tabs you push in / pull out and can be set for either on/off every 15 mins. .
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S?psc=1
awesome, thank you! would a timer like this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&amp;pd_rd_i=B00MVFF59S&amp;pd_rd_wg=KBcJh&amp;pd_rd_r=0JGTM74FGMQ0YW91K08Q&amp;pd_rd_w=5pAEd
I've been taking ice baths for a bit now using plastic water bottles as reuseable ice cubes while filling the tub daily. I have a nice jacuzzi tub available most of the time that is great, but lugging the ice bottles around (my tub is on the 2nd floor, and my freezer is on the 1st floor) and having to re-freeze them every day can be a PITA - as well as having to use new water each day instead of the ability to recycle. My next solution is a chest freezer, which I intend to set up as soon as I am able.
A few tips from my research:
Couldn't you use a normal time-dependent timer between the inkbird and your kegerator? That way your kegerator will only kick on during the times you tell it to.
Edit: Not that easy. Power needs to be supplied 24/7.
Double Edit: They make ones with a battery back up.
I would so it on low for 6 hours. If your crockpot doesn't have a timer and you want to start it before work, I suggest getting one that the plug goes into. 8 hours is a long time for veg.
They make digital ones, but you have to reprogram them Everytime you plug it in. Here is a link to a mechanical one. https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536151828&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=plug+timer&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41hWDwaWyhL&amp;ref=plSrch
Oh, that's nice! You can load the washer in the morning, set it to start running at an hour before you usually get home, and then move it to the dryer right away.
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I wonder if one of those[ outlet timers](https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S) would work for that? You'd need a grounded one that accommodates the three prongs (the one I linked does).
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Setup (in case you want this extra guide):
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It ain't cheap and won't likely solve all your algae issues (i have all manner of thread algae currently but it comes and goes) but it makes all the difference in overall plant health and growth, you will be trimming weekly if all goes well.
Success, now just wait until the plants get wildly healthy in a week.
I like the mechanical timers for their simplicity, they seem to last fairly long. I have owned a few of the digital timers and they can be a pain to program correctly. Even though the mechanical timers can't have multiple schedules it is nice to know they'll function just as intended.
Here's one I'm talking about - https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/
Erm... maybe attach a simple motor to a Wall timer?
If you don't know electronics, then you should accomplish this with as little electronics and as many off-the-shelf parts as possible.
Well, I'm skeptical of the smart home stuff for two main reasons. The biggest is because most of it seems like either more fragile and less reliable than the good ol' mechanical stuff. I know a light switch is going to turn on and off my lights. If it doesn't, odds are it's a problem with the light, not the switch. If I say "Hey, Lady in a Tube, turn off the lights," there's a much bigger chance of it not working in a way that I can't do anything about. A lot of other home automation stuff seems like it could be just as easily, and a lot more reliably, done with a simple, mechanical outlet timer. I want hot water in the morning, why buy a smart kettle or a smart plug that needs Wifi, when one of those timers will do the same thing, more reliably, even if my internet is down? Then there's the issue of so many of these smart home gadget companies getting bought out and bricking their devices. No fun.
The second concern I have is, of course, privacy. These things are collecting a lot of data, and I don't know how a lot of it is being used. I'd prefer to not have a hot microphone picking up what I say and sending it to a data center to be picked through for ads. Yes, I know the Echo doesn't send any audio unless it's been triggered first, but I don't know what all these other devices are sending out. Wasn't there a smart vacuum that was uploading maps of its users floorplans? Then there's the Vizio smart TVs that literally uploaded a framegrab of everything it displayed to Vizio every 30 seconds. I might be paranoid, but until the privacy stuff shakes out, I ain't gonna bother, even if I can find a use for it.
Giantex Indoor Grow Tent Room Reflective Mylar Hydroponic Non Toxic Clone Hut 6 Size (32''X32''X63'') https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PXK7ICK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UhVuybY2C4CHS
Roleadro 2nd Generation 600W LED Plant Grow Light Upgraded Full Spectrum Indoor Growing Light with 120pcs 5W Chips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IVQ96MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_diVuybHJCV7XV
VIVOSUN 4 Inch 203 CFM Duct Inline Fan with Variable Speed Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CTM0H6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BiVuybSGHVZTE
Century 24 Hour Heavy Duty Plug-in Mechanical Timer Grounded https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nkVuybNGBW6PS
MacDoDo PH-02 Digital PH Meter Tester Best For Water Aquarium Pool Hot Tub Hydroponics Wine - Push Button Calibration Resolution 0.01 / High Accuracy +/- 0.05 - Large LCD Display - 100% Guaranteed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOHTMEO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MkVuybZ08V91M
VIVOSUN Pair of 1/8" Adjustable Grow Light Reflector Clip Hanger Rope Ratchet with Zinc Alloy Internal Gears 75lb Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P7TZNPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nlVuyb1Q8670K
This is my setup, my fan is coming in today and my seedlings sprouted this morning. I did quite a bit of research and The light is a little underpowered but I was on a pretty tight budget and can always add more light later.
I spent $40 on seeds and super soil mix from Mephisto genetics, going a more organic route and won't require nutes.
I also spent about $30 on peat moss, perlite, and compost. I already had some ducting and pots.
I have the same ones, they get really hot so be sure to keep the heads far from the seedlings
Might even consider getting a mechanical timer. I got one recently and now I dont have to worry about turning them on in the morning and off at night.
As an example for a smallish grow:
2 x 2 x 4 Tent: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074H5DKPY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Lights: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0752CL6KJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00
Exhaust fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01C82SYZ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
Ducting: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00EPE3XHY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00
Timer: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MVFF59S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00
Total cost: ~270 CAD
LOL awesome. Did you know that you can diy your own light strips? I got a little carried away when i discovered that ;)
I plan on doing this or something similar to this in the future to do permanent Christmas lights on my house. I don't have all of the stuff picked out yet but I do plan on using this ballast to power the LED strips. The ballast is Hue compatible. I don't think it is waterproof but you could maybe stick it in a waterproof box. Ballast: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ
To be honest at this point it sounds like you’d be better off buying something other than Hue.
You could buy generic 5050 RGBW strips which you could cut and link as you wished from eBay for a fraction of the price of Hue strips.
Add a power supply and a zigbee controller (I have this one: Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4v4Ab9FKRZGS) and you’re sorted.
Edit: The new Ikea led driver could be an option as well, don’t know much about it though.
So am I correct in assuming that instead of the 6ft Phillips Hue strip - I can get these two things and have the equivalent of a 30ft strip that still works with the Hue Bridge?
https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-Flexible-600leds-Changing/dp/B00KCHRKD6
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ
Link: https://smile.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ
I used a regular led strip (2 actually, 32 feet) with this ballast, works with hue beautifully.
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462405659&amp;sr=8-17-spons&amp;keywords=Ip+ballast&amp;psc=1
OP Delivers and sorry for the delay. Thanks to /u/maxwellsearcy for reminding me!
Now, cut the plugs off one side of the lights and off the power supply. Match the wires up on the Dresden ballast with RGB+ on the LEDs. Carefully strip away the outer shielding on the power supply cord and then strip the tiny wires on the inside of the power supply wire. Put those into the power screw points on the Dresden. Plug it in and test. It should come on a solid color.
Now that you have it working, go into your Hue app and scan for new lights. You will see 2 lights pop up for every Dresden ballast you configure. Once it's done scanning, click them in the app and make sure they flash. One of them will NOT flash and you can safely delete that one.
That's it!
It's this thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ
Basically you plug electricity and strip lights into it and it shows up as one or two lights on the hue app.
You want the Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/
And these LED strips look good, though I haven't tried them, and they are a bit more expensive.
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Individually-Addressable-Flexible-Waterproof/dp/B01N2PC9KK
Though really any RGB or RGBW led strip should work with that ballast.
Sorry for the delayed response, I've been on vacation.
What I ended up doing was purchasing one of these https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ and planned on only using it with smartthing hub, but found the flaky connection a problem and attempted to add it to a phillips hue hub...and it worked!!
Note to reset the ballast you unplug and re-plug the device 5 times.
Overall installation is relatively straight forward.
Second question: No you do not need a hue bulb, but you do need a hue hub
I see you mentioning Hue strips and how much they cost. Although I haven't gotten to try it for myself yet, I hear you can use generic RGB lightstrips along with an FLS-PP to get cheaper lightstrips that are still compatible with the Hue bridge.
It really depends how much effort you want to put in and if you are up for a bit of programming on a raspberry pi...
Short answer is only official hue bulbs are compatible with HomeKit.
However you can run a piece of software called homebridge on a raspberry pi that allows you to link unofficial but hue compatible bulbs to HomeKit. I have such a set up and it works perfectly!
Then you have more options with lights! I have one of these Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cKwrzbZRGY7BG
Which can drive a lot of led strips...
It's a tad more expensive than the cheapest. Not neccesarily a bad thing, as the cheapest is often... the cheapest.
Your link is for 2835 LEDs. Have you researched LEDs sizes? Nothing wrong with 2835; just a matter of aesthetics and taste as to what's the "right" size, but there are other sizes available.
With crown molding, probably not possible, but it's best to put them in an aluminum channel.
Also, those cheap ass WIFI controllers and remotes work surprisingly well, but you may want to upgrade to the Hue platform using an FLS-pp. The main advantage for this immediate one-off install would be allowing tying more than one together for a single remote. Using the WiFi things, you're going to get boxed into trying to wire and power them as a single strip (which may work perfectly fine). Of course, you'd need a remote that works with Hue... the Hue Dimmer works well.
You can build your own very cheaply, total cost is basically $55 for a third party controller, plus ~4$/m for chinese LED strip.
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-electronic-ballast-interface-certified/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ
I have two dresden controllers (Running ~200W of lighting) and two lighstrip+ connected to my system and everything works fine.
The only problem is that you will never color match a third party product. The bulbs and strips will always display exactly the same color (Assuming you are within the gamut of the products) but third party can be way off.
If you are starting from Scratch I would look at Osram lightify garden strips. https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-LIGHTIFY-Osram-Gardenspots-Adjustable/dp/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496056371&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=osram+lightify
They are meant for outside AND you can remove the spikes and screw them directly onto the deck ( they are designed this way)
Another solution is to get outdoor rated lightstrips and connect them with this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It is a ballast that will connect to HUE ecosystem or actually any zigby controller. I use one of these for lightstrips in my kitchen
boy, have i got something to show you
Using huegasm (chrome extension), meters of generic LED strips and 2 hue bulbs, you can do the above. You do need this
Wireless electronic ballast FLS-PP lp with Power PWM interface for RGBW and RGB lights (12/24V LED/LED stripes), ZigBee certified product https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NMSQ4QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pkivyb18HR99K
Or you can look at the FLS-PP IP Zigbee ballast with a power supply and any RGBW LED strip (The SuperNight LEDs are 18 bucks for 15 feet)... The ballast is recognized by Hue as a full color light.
I had ok luck with this.
The Hue light strip itself seems like a gigantic waste of money to me. You can get an FLS-PP controller and 16.4' of light strip that's better than Hue (more LEDs per foot) for about the same price as one Hue light strip which only comes with 6' of light. I got a couple FLS-PP controllers on sale for $55.
It largely depends on how much length you need. If you only need a few feet, the regular light strips from Phillips are your best bet. If you're doing long runs, it can be a lot cheaper to go 3rd party.
I ran about 30 feet for my apartment using 3rd party, and spent a little over $100. I compared it to the light strips and it would have been around $450 using just light strips. So far the integration has been super easy.
Here's what I bought:
1x FLS-PP for $55 (this is what you use to control the lights via the Hue app)
1x 12v power supply for $12
1x set of pigtails (only needed one of them, so a local AV or tech store might sell individual ones) for $5
2x 16ft SUPERNIGHT RWBWW LED Strips for $17/ea
They aren't as bright and as uniform as the Hue Lightstrips, but you get what you pay for. The Hue Lighstrips are $90 for 6.5feet, and I would have needed 5 boxes total, so $450 just for the strips.
I use this for my closet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/
full color and hue app recognizes it because it's zigbee. not that I need colors in my closet, but the plain white controller wasn't much cheaper, so I figured why not.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ/#Ask
Have a look at the FLS-PP lp by Dresden Elektronik. It is a zigbee led strip controller that will work with Philips Hue and should work with Smart Things Hub. It will work with the 505SMD led strips.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMSQ4QQ
I didn't want to (or wasn't ready) to replace ceiling fans, and my light and fan were wired separately, so I opted for the Lutron Caseta in-wall dimmer for the light and the GE smart fan controller for the fan.
This setup works perfectly with Wink and Echo if you ignore Wink sees the fan controller as a light (just name it ceiling fan) and therefore, doesn't understand low, medium, or high (so I say off, 25%, 50%, or 100%).
I'll warn that I was quite happy with my Lutron switches until I saw how sleekly GE incorporated dimming into their Decora-style rocker switch ... which people are more accustomed to. Average Joe walks in, and although the Caseta is clearly labeled, they have a tendency to freak out.
On the other hand, what filthy peasant is still using their hands? ;-)
I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.
Links:
https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467068632&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ge+zwave+switch
https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467068575&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=ge+smart+fan+control
GE 12730 Z-Wave Smart Fan Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_k.W2wbCC5SW29The GE Fan Control switch works. You'll have to have a switch for both the fan and light.
You could accomplish this with home automation. Replace the fan switch with this zwave switch and then add a Wink or Smartthings hub. Your phone would be the remote. You can also get an Amazon Echo for cheap and then control the fan with your voice.
It's a standard Hampton Bay fan, but it's controlled with a GE ZWave fan wall switch.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_O5FnzbVCPG00Y
If you're patient, Lowe's periodically marks them down to $35.
Hue ecosystem uses the Zigbee protocol. The Hue app can only control lights out of the box. There is only 1 fan controller for HA that I'm aware of and that's the GE zwave fan controller which requires a z-wave hub similar to SmartThings which also integrates with Hue and it works pretty well.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12730 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
The most popular way to control fans is to get one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ) and link it through smartthings
For the fan:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNzqyb1WFHGY0
For the light pick any zwave dimmer you want.
Make sure you have neutral wires behind those existing switches.
Edit: buy a "companion switch" for the other wall. It's likely a 3-way switch setup.
This is a Z Wave compatible switch designed to control a fan.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01
There are a ridiculous number of options, but based on my bedroom:
A 52" Haiku H series with SensMe (HA integration) in a dark finish wood, with satin nickel base, on a level 9' ceiling, with a light fixture, and wall switch is $1315.00.
Or you can go to Amazon and buy a more sensible fan for $100-$300 dollars, and set up most of the same rules using a multi sensor and a z-wave fan control.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYMGVVQ?keywords=Ceiling%20fan%20z-wave&amp;qid=1458787380&amp;ref_=sr_1_2&amp;sr=8-2
I haven't tried to hardwire occupancy sensors into my lighting systems. I'm going to be honest: with the explosion of frugal LED illumination, I just don't think that the return on investment is there.
What works better for me are smart outlets that can operate without a hub. Here is one example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0WuOxbN0FM169
Their designs offer quite a lot of control. You can often find such products on sale across the 'Net; don't pay list price.
More of them: http://www.postscapes.com/smart-outlets/
And if you ever do decide to purchase a hub, many of them will also integrate into your system.
this one seems ok.
I bought this one, it sucks but it was available for 1-hour delivery in my area
Yeah, working on it. I already knew the more well known bits, but the more I read the more subtleties there are. Any advice on what to look for in a multimeter? looking at this one
What are you looking to do with it and how much are you willing to spend?
I carry this guy with me on a day to day basis, does everything I need and was only $20
A multimeter is a must have tool for someone running a vintage bike. They are relatively inexpensive. I can recommend this one as it has auto-ranging, but anyone you get will do.
Tutorial on multimeters and how they work.
How to test your motorcycle components.
If you don't have one, they're pretty cheap on Amazon: link
I use one of these on every electrical project on my jeep for sure
I use a cheap innova multimeter, large display and has a lot of functions for $24: https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504016650&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=innova+volt
Here are some useful links: Link; Link; Link. The Marantz cost about $58 using good quality replacements. I did a H/K 330B for $9.58. The Marantz 2285 I am working on cost about $90 for parts.
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You will need a decent soldering iron; solder sucker; desoldering braid; lead solder; flux; and most importantly a multimeter. Here is another gear thread. Most of the manuals are available on Hifiengine. What you can't find there you can check the forums or Sams. Manuals on Fleabay should be an absolute last resort.
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I would recommend going to a local thrift store and getting some practice junker units. It will take you some time to good at it and you certainly don't want to screw up your good unit. I still don't know anywhere near enough to do more than replace the parts and do basic troubleshooting. Fortunately for people like us, there are a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable persons on the forums who are always willing to lend a hand. Edit: Forgot about the Dim Bulb Tester.
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520974670&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=multimeter
Its still on the cheaper end, but I've been using one extensively for 4 years and haven't had any issues besides the pos. probe becoming loose.
I use this, but there are probably slightly better ones at that price point if you go looking. I like this one because it's auto-ranging, but the whole "battery test" thing seems like nonsense. Hasn't failed me yet in my light usage.
I have this one that I like kind of a lot. It's not super flashy or anything, but it's reasonably quick, it autoranges, it's fairly accurate, and it's worked for everything I've needed so far. And, it's only $17 so you don't have much to lose. It's well built (feels sturdy). Only complaint is that it makes noises twice when it's about to shut off.
I've used this one for many years.
It lacks capacitor- and transistor-testing modes, but it was designed mainly for automotive use, and for the price, it's very good.
uhhhhhhhh If you say so...
You wouldn't know of good how to for dummies / videos that would go over these?
Also does the quality of mulitmeters really matter if it's just for motorcycle diagnoses? was thinking of getting this, but some of the reviews say it's not that great, what distinguishes a great multimeter from an okay one?
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426173691&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=multimeter
Yeah. I use this one because it is a lot nicer than the even cheaper ones while still being pretty cheap. And its auto-ranging which is a big plus in my book. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/
And https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014ERIFU6 those for drivers. I too was fed up with the cheap ones stripping. Again, not the best in the world but a lot better than the harbor freight special. They bite well and I haven't stripped anything with them yet.
The ohm/volt meter I have from MyVaporStore is nice. I'm sure you can find it cheaper but I like their customer service and reliability.
However, if you're wanting a good multimeter, this one from Amazon is cheaper than most ohm/volt meters.
I bought one of these in 2010 and another in 2017; the first one is still working fine. It's worked great for basic troubleshooting and measurements. I've used it for power consumption measuring and it seemed accurate enough. I've used them a lot, but none of it requires super accurate readings and I haven't had a single issue. If you buy one I can't guarantee the same experience, but they've been great for me.
Currently $18.80 https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/
The previous owner may have used those cables for phone. Even if he did the ends can be cut off and replaced with RJ-45 jacks for your Local Area Network. Hiring somebody qualified to sort it out for you is probably the best option. However, if you want you could buy a tone & trace tool to figure out which parts of the demarc spaghetti go to your future office.
Some toners come with alligator clips that should work, just hook one to the middle copper and the other to the nut.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464890393&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cable+toner
Because it has a few more features, and is digital instead of analog? I have this one and it's kind of a pain in the ass sometimes. I'd definitely be interested in seeing if a digital toner would be worth the extra $$.
you can buy something like https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=cat+5e+tracer&amp;qid=1571605920&amp;sr=8-16 and plug it into the port nearest where your router is now and then put the probe on every wire going into the panel until you get a beeping sound. Now that you know which one it is on the panel plug a ethernet cable from one of the LAN ports on your router to the wall and plug the panel's side into a switch.
Thats is why I bought a wire toner lol. put one end on the wire in the apt and it beeps when you find the other end. I hate how the apt maintenance guys usually write the address on them with black marker and it fades away in a couple months. Sometimes the put a a stcker or the marker lasts longer under the disc panel. Good luck.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-PRO3000-Analog/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=cm_cmu_pg__header
If you're pondering this because of the other post today and your outlet is 120V then this is what can test it.
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519597199&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=outlet+tester&amp;dpID=41lRWPMgkJL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
If it's a dryer outlet, it's probably fine if it has been doing it's normal job up to now.
Waterlox should be great for the bathroom. If you have one of those outlet testers you could double check but if the electrician did it, it's probably fine.
This does a great job at detecting wiring faults and is cheap: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/
I use a gfci outlet tester. They are pretty cheap, and check that the wiring is as it should be (hot, neutral and ground in the right place). There is a button on it that will trip a gfci breaker to make sure it works as it should.
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU
Perhaps a grounding/loose neutral issue. Or even a reversed hot/neutral. Use a circuit tester to test the outlet for faults if possible.
I wouldn't assume that three prong outlet is properly wired, Someone could have just thrown it in there even if there isn't a ground wire ran to the box. You could buy a plug tester like this and it will tell you if it's wired correctly. It is possible someone could have wired the outlet to trick a tester into thinking there was a ground by jumping from the neutral to the ground.
Ultimately i would recommend having an electrician inspect the wiring in your house. Your houses original wiring is old and may not have a means to ground available at every outlet. I would find someone you can trust to take a look at everything, You don't know how many people, qualified or not, have worked in your home.
Make sure your computer is properly grounded. Make sure the outlet you're plugged into is wired correctly.
Ground tester... can be found at any hardware store, home depot etc... for just a few bucks.
Most uninterruptible power supply units these days have ground fault detection built in... and you should be using one regardless.
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523144160&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ground+fault+tester
That aside, something shorted out. You have an exposed wire or something somewhere or the GPU is touching something that it shouldn't be.
The casing is for shielding, as at the end of the cable the pairs are untwisted and no longer individually shielded going into the RJ45 connector. It could potentially connect the ground from one device to another if it's wired into the shielding across the cable. It shouldn't be the cause of this issue though.
If you're feeling a shock it's because you have a grounding issue between your PC and the wall(or the outlet itself) and should get that checked out.
Perhaps check out something like this(If you're on 120v), it's possible your house/building wiring is FUBAR. I had a nice shock when I was connecting my parents fridge water hose to the fridge.
https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487960559&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sperry+outlet+tester
Time to invest into a multimeter or Outlet Tester
Wire strippers
Cheap multimeter
Outlet tester w/GFCI
Heat shrink tubing
Cheap work light
A massive supply of various writing tools -- sharpies, grease pencils, carpenter's pencils.
Should be able to pick all that up for <$100 and it'll make your life easier.
I would still test your home wiring. you can order things like this or find them at just about any store with an electrical section.
If the dishwasher is plugged into a outlet you can access, you can buy a cheap outlet tester like this one on Amazon
and see if your wiring is good. Sorry if this was already suggested somewhere. :P You can find the plug testers at any hardware store too.
Get somethign like this http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452385389&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=outlet+tester make sure the outlet is wired correctly.
If it is then get a really good spurge suppressor possibly one with filtering
I suggest proceeding VERY methodically. Two things I've found over the years:
I find one of these testers to be real handy when working on unknown wiring, and for checking my own after completion. LINK
Here is a quick how to: http://www.acmehowto.com/electrical/grounding.php
You can also get the all in one type and plug it into all your outlets to test: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU
If I understand correctly, there's a chance that blackened bit is keeping that side of the connection to the dryer from being a good connection. (that black sooty carbon is a decent insulation when you don't want it to be). without pictures, it's hard to tell if the cord has problems, but that's where I would look first.
Related for others, do they make a receptacle tester for the 4 prong outlets? I'm thinking something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA
Yup. It has a 3 lights and tells you if it's good, or has an open neutral, or bad ground.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA
Any hardware store carries something like this for $10 or less. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA
You need to ground your amp. First, those outlets look pretty unsafe. You are hearing main line buzz (click the 60 Hz mains hum)
Really what you need to do is get an electrician to rewire the outlet with a proper ground and follow local electrical code. Not doing it is risk of death/electrocution/fire.
However, if it's not an option (e.g., renting or it's cost-prohibitive), you could get away with a plug adapters like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-274-274-000-Grounding-Adapter/dp/B000H5WGJ6/
if properly installed (e.g., the junction box is metal and grounded, and so you screw that adapter into the outlet so there's a connected ground). As a last resort if you like to live dangerously, you may be able to clamp an electrical wire to between the adapter ground and a metal water/radiator pipe (again if you are sure there's no non-metal connector anywhere along the pipe), if the pipe is grounded. You probably would want GFCI circuits if you are doing this, because if there is a ground fault (say from a bad appliance being plugged in), you don't want you metal water pipe to suddenly become live and potentially electrocute you and/or start a fire.
Once the outlet is grounded you should test with a ground tester (like $5) and verify you have a real ground and no other issues.
There could additionally be other grounding problems if the wiring in the guitar is bad or the cable is also bad, but you will have bad buzzing if you don't fix the ground first.
EDIT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nakpj_Mee0Q
You might also want to check the outlet for a ground fault. There is an inexpensive device you can get at the hardware store, like this:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA
No. There's lots of wiring mistakes you could make and still operate a lightbulb: reverse hot/neutral, open ground, neutral/ground short, etc. Get one of these to test the wiring connections:
https://smile.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA?sa-no-redirect=1
Note: not an electrician.
Like one of these guys?
You can get a plug tester like this to diagnose if there's a wiring problem: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
If it's happened from other outlets, it could be that the whole circuit has a problem. When I first plugged in the charger I got with my Leaf, it had a blinking green light. I used one of these plug testers and confirmed that the circuit for the garage wasn't grounded at all.
These are not optional. I carry one in my gig bag ( as a player ) because I do not want to die:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
> From what you've described it sounds like a ground error
Even though it may not change what you do, I think it's worth a quick check with one of those cheapo outlet testers (link to an example I got to via a quick Google search, no specific endorsement of that one). One of the things they test for is whether there's an open ground.
Note, these outlet testers are not perfect. There are faults and combinations of faults they can't diagnose or can't completely diagnose. In this particular case, if I pull something out of my ass I can imagine the EVSE doing a more rigorous test of the quality of ground, so just because the outlet tester indicates that there's no open ground doesn't mean it's a good enough ground.
I have vague memories of people saying that some EVSEs won't provide power if they don't have a good ground, so this could be it.
Grab an outlet tester. First thing is, it will test the outlet in the moment. But, if you leave it plugged in, you can have a constant visual indicator if the outlet is working (there's a light on it).
But yeah, replace the outlet.
Links: https://www.homedepot.com/c/how_to_install_a_receptacle_HT_PG_EL
https://www.theartofdoingstuff.com/how-to-replace-an-ugly-old-electrical-outlet/
Run, don't walk, to your nearest home depot / lowes and buy an outlet tester for 5-6 dollars. Should look like this
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
It's fairly simple to use, plug it in, see what lights come on and go from there. I'm almost willing to put money on your outlets not being properly grounded and if that's the case, there are probably more. You'll want to test the outlets in and around your house paying particular attention to any area with water in it (bathroom, kitchen, outside).
The UPS won't provide a ground if there's not a ground on the outlet.
Check every outlet you plug into with one of these: http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA/
I plugged a headphone amp into an improperly wired outlet then connected it to my interface on another circuit resulting in a huge voltage drop against grounds killing all outputs on my interface and blowing a fuse. A small voltage drop between circuits will cause a shock, while an improperly wired outlet across grounds can kill.
For first testing I just use one of these
Can carry it in your pocket and seems to be pretty reliable. (hasn't failed me in 10 years so far)
For extended testing, such as if that shows a problem or later develop a problem (damn mice) then I go with a standard voltmeter.
EDIT: Better link that shows what all it checks for.
I've run into shit like that in dorms with mis-wired outlets. Invest in one of these and test every outlet before using it http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indicator/dp/B002LZTKIA
You can even find them at stores for $2
I also strongly recommend a receptacle tester. Good for quick checks like OP is talking about. It also indicates any wiring faults.
As for outlets: buy one of these outlet testers. The diagnostic lights will tell you exactly what you are dealing with. If your outlets are 3 prong but not grounded that is not a good situation and how to fix it depends on many variables (Basement vs crawlspace vs slab, attic access, are the boxes grounded but not the outlets). At least the diagnostics will tell you enough to know what you are dealing with and if you need an electrician.
As for checking breakers, I would suggest turning on all the lights in the house. Go to the breaker box, turn each breaker off, one at a time and make sure the label in the box matches what actually turns off in the house. Fixing the labels now might save you a hour in the dark in the future.
Similarly, look at all your plumbing shutoffs. Make sure they are not leaking. Turn each faucet on first hot, then cold, then close the shutoff in the basement and/or under the sink. Label ones you find in the basement, hot vs cold and what room/rooms they feed. Again this tells you if you might need a plumber (or DIY) to resolve some bad shutoffs (gate valves >15yrs old should not be trusted) and can help if(when) you have a serious leak in the future.
Upvote for having a $5 tester. Everyone should have one.
Get a power bar with surge protector that has the "building wiring fault" LED on it, or get one of those "outlet checkers" at Home Depot etc. I.e. https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
Although those checkers can sometimes lie about the ground if something is plugged in that is tying the ground to neutral, where in that case my building wiring fault LED still told the truth.
Basically plug in and switch on the power bar / check the lights before plugging everything else in..
Immediately tomorrow, go to Harbor Freight, or Fry's, or Amazon.com, or wherever and buy a 3-prong electrical receptacle tester like this, for example, and check your outlets. Then hire an electrician to come in an fix them.
Or just skip the tester, and get the electrician in before someone dies.
Another thing about the outlets would be checking to make sure the three-prong ones are actually grounded. Socket testers are cheap, or you may already have a power strip with a ground light.
I had similar intentions with my laundry room at one point, so I understand where you are coming from, but you might re-consider a simple occupancy switch (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485316261&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=MS-OPS2-WH). For me, the more I thought about it, the more I realized involving my HA system was simply making things more complicated than they needed to be for what I wanted to do.
I like these because you can still easily turn the lights off when you're done.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550262593&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=lutron+motion+switch
try this
He means a non-SmartThings one, like this one
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498060276&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=motion+sensor+switch
You’re talking about a jamb switch, but they don’t meet energy codes in my area. The issue that municipalities have with jamb switches is that if you don’t close the door then the light never goes off. If you put in a motion sensor with an automatic off then it will go off after a certain amount of time even if you don’t close the door. That’s really the best option. Technically motion sensors indoors don’t meet CA energy codes either because they don’t want lights automatically turning on anywhere in the house. They want you to physically hit the switch and then for it to time off. That is called an occupancy sensor. It’s actually required in closets and bathrooms.
But what you’d want is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=58685001040&amp;gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhfvT7I7-5AIVoyCtBh20jwIxEAAYASAAEgJHu_D_BwE&amp;hvadid=274898185342&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9032130&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=11606527727516147700&amp;hvtargid=kwd-296546370640&amp;hydadcr=12164_10197800&amp;keywords=switch+motion+sensor&amp;qid=1570037880&amp;sr=8-5
This is what I have in my laundry room.... Looks like they have an LED Dimmer version now too. I'm considering getting that for the bathroom...
Lutron Maestro Motion Sensor Switch, No Neutral Required, 250 Watts, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_M1MUDbYY3A2DX
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC/
Complex to set up, but works great!
[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)
[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)
Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc
So basically digital only?
So will this be a good choice? INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_o0TEybZY2V8B1
Not really worth it with prices for real multimeters starting from from literally $0 and decent ones under $20 (when on sale).
I've heard good things about this one http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA as an entry-level unit. Unlike the HF one, it is auto-ranging so a little more beginner friendly.
If your budget allows, get yourself a Fluke. If you're only scraping by, a Harbor Freight one will get you started.
I have this one and it works great.
Yes - major. A digital meter provides three digit numbers. An example:
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510587688&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=digital+volt+meter&amp;dpID=41CeZkP6ksL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
These are available in Sears. In stores that also sell hammers and auto repair tools. In Walmart for maybe $18. In Harbor Freight sometimes for only $6.
No results can exist if you do not obtain (request) the second item. Second item (instructions) says what to do.
Lady Ada sums it up nicely: http://www.ladyada.net/learn/multimeter/ I will say I disagree with her/Bob Pease's comments on the usefulness of a temperature probe. I had an apartment once with an oven that lacked markings on the control knob. A sharpie and my multimeter with thermocouple fixed that problem. 8D
They are mostly a commodity item at this point, unless you got Fluke money (I got a used Fluke 89-IV for ~$175 on eBay a few years ago, score).
I'd think this one should work well: http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/
That is overkill for what you need. You can normally find them for under $10 bucks at harbor freight. Parts places would have some, but might bend you over for one. If you want a nice one for the money this is the one I have:
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1311290504&amp;sr=8-2
Also, you do not need a test light if you have a multimeter, you can set it to audible continuity test and it will beep if you have power.
Gotcha.
Go pick up an arduino kit, a few boards, an iron and solder.
The arduino kit will help with the physical electrical aspect, resistors, leds, servos, positive and negative, and it help with the theory/text book stuff such as amps, ohms, voltages etc.
Pick up a multimeter and look up how to test resistance , voltages, conductivity.
You can practice the soldering by putting led and resistors on a board. The arduino has tons of material for simple projects that include the code. So if the coding part doesn’t interest you, just copy the example
Code and build the circuit on the included breadboard. Then move the circuit into a blank soldering board
And make sure to research any questions instead of just asking someone who knows the answer. The reason I suggest research on your own first is there’s a lot to learn in the tech industry. The more you read the more you’ll familiarize yourself with key words, go to forums, and terminology.
Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:
> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.
> Other stuff:
> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment
> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.
I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:
Thanks for the thorough answer! I really appreciate the help! I don't have any tools unfortunately but I can get them. Would this be a good voltmeter? (Innova 3320)
So to confirm, I would connect the voltmeter to the crankshaft sensor and test whether there is any output? I can also rent a fuel gauge and try your second suggestion. I'll keep you posted. Thanks so much again!
So i think my multimeter doesnt have enough ranges to test the variety of different settings on.
i ended up giving up. I dont think my multimeter does is able to read the different sizes or idk but I am getting a lot of misleading things and my head hurts from organizing by color. Can anyone recommend if one of these will be good?
Something like this:
How would i check the alternator with this?
https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488076406&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=car+battery+voltage+meter
do you think the higher soc voltage affects ram overclocking? with +0.00 SoC (1.15 with a multimeter), GFX SoC at 1.175 and DRAM at 1.38 I could get 3066mhz, c14 stable (haven’t tried lowering voltages).
have you tried measuring with a multimeter to make sure that HWINFO is accurate? the more results we have the better.
copied from another comment:
the only way to know the actual voltage is to go in and check it with a multimeter. something like this should work just fine for the job. you'll want to take off your case's back panel, put your PC on some gpu load like furmark or firestrike or something, and put one multimeter lead on one circled pin and one lead on the other (if it's negative just flip the leads around) if you've never used a multimeter before, it's easy---just put the red in the red, the black in the black, and set the dial to what's in green.
be careful not to short the two pins together, though.
That's a great one too, cheap, reliable, moderately fast auto ranging. I wouldn't use it for measuring high current/voltage but for hobbyist purposes it's great.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419118140&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=multimeter
For the multimeter, I have this one and it works perfectly fine. That module you linked won't work, though. That
mudole'smodule's minimum input is 4V, and the Pocket runs on 3V with fresh batteries. Something more like this module would work. I could be wrong though, as I've never done this mod; I just shoved a lithium-ion battery into my Pocket and it works great.Also, going down the rabbit hole is really fun! I started with the
backoightbacklight mod, then I did a prosound, then a USB rechargeable battery, then a bass boost, then an amplifier, and I'm debating doing a bivert, though with how little space is left after the preceding mess, I probably can't. :PEDIT: Wow I butchered the spelling of "module"
EDIT2: And the spelling of "backlight"
This is concerning, the nominal voltage range for an 18650 is 3.6-3.7 and the maximum voltage on a full charge might hit closer to 4.3v. What charger are you using, and what volt meter.
I would still recommend picking up a true multi meter, it dosen't have to be a fluke or a klein, just something that gives an accurate reading.
Your post needs a little clarification. When you say voltmeter people are thinking about a digital multimeter. Since you mentioned it has a switched connection I'm assuming you're talking about a permanent fixture in your car that displays your battery's voltage?
26 gauge wire is very small - you would solder it to another wire generally. Strip back about 1/4" of insulation on the wire your connecting to and strip back about 1" of insulation on the 26 gauge wire. Then wrap the exposed part of the 26 gauge wire around the 1/4" exposure a few times and solder it then either shrink wrap or electrical tape the connection up. No need to use butt connectors.
You can use nay 12v battery you'd like to that can supply the cca (cold cranking amps) to the motor to get it started, I have a designated large car battery to do this.
I wouls strongly suggest that you invest in a multimeter of some sort. I do not own the one linked but based on the reviews it can't be that bad for the price. and see what the voltage of the battery is, if it is above 11v I would consider the battery to be salvageable and try to recharge it. if not, yes I would get a new battery. Just know that while you are troubleshooting the bike that you should have a way to charge the battery. I used to just hook up leads from my car battery to my bike to do the testing; relying on the alternator of the ca to get the battery charged as I drove it.
Yes, a good place to start would be the battery, next I would test for spark: take the spark plug cap off, unbolt the plug, put the cap backon and ground the plug to the engine by holding threads up to the engine case (bare metal). and then try turning on the bike looking for small spark jumping at the tip. That should be good if he said it was running sporadically. then, again I would assume the carb is the main problem.
If you can afford a $300 3D printer, you can afford a $20 multimeter.
Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..
I have this one, but you don't need to spend more than $20 on one. Make sure you take the inherant resistence in your leads into account when you test your RDA.
http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420433664&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=volt+ohm+meter
You'd be surprised a) how easy it is to use Arduino, and b) how helpful the online community is. The nice thing about Arduino is that the complexity remains the same, regardless of how many sensors you add, provided you have enough expansion breakout board.
For a first step, I would buy a starter kit and a cheap soldering iron and a half-decent multimeter and just start making little projects, like light sensors and temperature sensors and making those projects both wireless and online.
After that, it's just a matter of interfacing the larger, higher-voltage components (like pumps and valves) with the lower-voltage Arduino. This is easily accomplished with a relay, which is also useful for electrical isolation between the two subsystems.
Start small. I would recommend making an Arduino into a timer, and then using the timer to control a pump. Then add an online API that allows you to adjust the on/off time of the pump. Then add water level sensors, then temperature sensors, etc.
Also, make sure you prototype everything on a small scale first, like the guy in the video was doing on his desk. It will save you a lot of money if you mess anything up.
Once you develop the skills necessary to build your smart-system, I cannot stress how important a good, detailed electrical diagram is. It doesn't matter if it's professional-quality, or done with pencil and a ruler. It will save you so much time.
Thanks, this was really helpful! Since with this blog I finally better understood the process of building pedals, I’ve made up my mind about getting into this and learning as much as possible. It’s a great blog.
I do have a follow up question thou. I’m now making a list of tools I’ll need to get for the job, I already have a few but I’m missing a multimeter. Would [this one](Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3m-AbTVDFTA0) be good enough?
It does not look like the switches are the problem... I have not done a minidox, but from this build guide it looks like you might have soldered the jumpers for the left and right side, SJ1 and SJ2 wrong. Your photo is too blurry to tell for sure but it looks like all three pads are soldered together? This is how it should look. Also, do you have a multimeter to test your reset switch and the diode orientation? Did you take any shots of your diode side before you soldered the switches and switch plate on?
Take a look at SJ1 & SJ2 and see if you can clean that up and test that they are jumpered correctly and lets go from there.
I am far from perfect, but here is how I solder my switches and components... Contra, and close up... Clean and Smooth :) This is a good shot of the PM, switches and diodes from my Gherkin See how the solder curves up the sides of the switch? Like cones and not globs or balls.
It is a dance... apply iron to hole and component, add the solder, remove solder then remove the iron in just the right time to not get a cold solder and not too long to warp the switch so it either doesn't work on give double presses and then it has to be removed and replaced.
The solder will flow to the heat... it like heat... I try to keep most of the contact with the pcb and less to the switch cause then the solder flows it will add heat to the switch... hope that makes sense. Once you get the groove, it feels so good.
Hope you can get your minidox working. looks like a cool board!
Ok, so I just discovered my multimeter (which I haven't used in years) has a broken screen, so I'm waiting for a new one from amazon. I'm guessing what you're going to say is to test the TRS on the broken phone against the solder point. I'll contact you again when I have it on Sunday. In the meantime, I'm learning all I can about wire replacement and that awesome-looking Kramer method.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Readings corroborated the expected output down to the 2nd decimal place
Thanks for the kind words. And doesn't hurt giving important advice like shut the circuit and test it. I do know to do that but given the dangers involved... I don't mind hearing it!
Would this multimeter tool work as a voltage tester? I used it to test the current on parts of my dryer to see what needed to be replaced.
If not, any specific recommended voltage tester?
This is the one I bought
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
But I don't see 24v AC as an option
an Amp clamp? do you mean an Amps setting on my multi meter?
I picked up a multi meter to help diagnose this problem (and other problems down the line) and have mostly been following instructions on use....
I got this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I am guessing It's the yellow setting on the bottom left DC10A
OR is this something on the water heter?
~Edit~
Corrected location of setting I described.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
It was the first thing that came up when I searched multimeter on Amazon. I can go get a different one at a store tomorrow and see if the results are the same. Are there any particular brands you reccommend?
I have decided to buy the banana plugs and jacks from amazon can anyone here verify that I am going to buy the correct ones
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BKW2K2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYAQYO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&amp;smid=A3S5JX6S4LCKI6
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0044YPN0A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&amp;smid=A1DCPNQKKEISZB
Also, will this meter be ok to measure the current?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I tried finding the fuse but I was unable, can anyone post a link to where you got yours. Finally, I was wondering if has anyone experimented with HD-TDCS
I'd highly recommend getting a halfway decent multimeter if you don't have one. Given that you'll have more electrical work to do (and test) after initial diagnosis, you'll get a LOT of value out of a decent multimeter.
Something like this won't break the bank, and all the major functionality you will need to troubleshoot:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGZA/
I'm a cheap bastard so I got [this] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EVYGZA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1375307602&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SL75)
I really like it so far
First thing, I'm assuming that there is a corresponding port or cable, where the ethernet port that is in your room comes out in the basement, and you've connected it to your router? Following that assumption, I'd think that there are multiple cables/ports near your router that come from all around the house, and you've connected these (or at least the one from your room) to the back of your router?
If that is the case (that you have cables connected to your router coming from these outlets), the first easy test to do would be to make sure that the right cable is connected to your router. To save running upstairs each time, you could leave the computer plugged in, and try different cables in the back of the router until it lights up for one.
If that doesn't work, you'll have to do a bit more digging. First, are they actually ethernet cables? Look at where the cables come out downstairs, or remove the faceplate of the outlet and look. The cable should say CAT5, CAT5e, or CAT6. You can run networking over CAT3 as well, but long lengths might cause slower connections.
If the cabling looks good, the next go-to would be to make sure it was terminated correctly. This is not an uncommon mistake if the installer didn't know what they were doing. If both ends of the cable are terminated in jacks, this is easy. Unscrew the wall jack, and look at the spot where the cable is stripped and pressed into the back of the connector. There should be 8 notches, each with a color code (e.g. blue/white, red, etc). The wire going into each notch should match up with this color. If the cables that come out in your basement are set up in a patch panel, it's easy to tell there as well. For each end, make sure that all the wires are pressed fully into each notch.
If it is hard to tell, or one end of the cable is crimped with a plug, instead of ending in a patch panel, you may want to look into an Ethernet cable tester, which will tell you if all the wires inside the cable are correctly set up. If after all of this, you are still not sure which wire that you see in the basement is the one going up to your room, you may need a toner, which will let you easily determine which wire is which. You'll plug the device into the outlet in your room, then go to the basement and hold the probe over each Ethernet cable while holding its button: when you move it over the correct cable, you'll hear a beeping tone.
You're lucky to be somewhere with structured cabling added: I've seen far too many new-construction homes, even quite high end, that either have no network cabling, or it's half-assed (which may be the issue in your case). You'll hope that they just didn't put the connectors on the cables correctly, or that they labelled things wrong, because this is an easy fix. Some places give you a nice cabinet where everything comes out, but the cables don't have any actual connectors applied: also an easy fix, but kind of an unfinished job. More troublesome would be if they cut/kinked a cable somewhere in the wall, because that is less trivial to solve.
Exactly. Something like this:
Fluke Networks Pro3000 Tone Generator and Probe Kit
An F-set (Tone generator) will help with this. All circuits will need to be off though, or at minimum the circuit you are attaching the tone generator to.
For example: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-PRO3000-Analog/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1410261725&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=tone+generator
You clip the leads to wires. It transmits a frequency across the wires. The receiver will warble when it is proximity to any wire with the frequency being transmitted over it, which will help you trace it out.
We have 3, 2 Greenlee's and 1 Fluke. The Greenlee's are the AT8LK and the 701K-G. The Fluke is the Pro3000 BUT it has never really worked right. I would thoroughly recommend the Greenlee's.
I do this at work a bunch, but we have something that looks like this tone generator and wand. One side clips to the cable and makes a noise in the line. The wand is something you can wave over (and in and around) the wall panel wires and see which one of them makes the noise.
Easy as pie, but pricey. I bet any friend who works IT in a company larger than 50 people has one at work. Also, telco guys always have one.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-PRO3000-Analog/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1413425579&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=fluke+tracer One of these is usually a good tool for finding things
It doesn't look like any of the cables/ports have any information on them. You may call whoever "services" this panel and see if they have any documentation or you can buy a toner:
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZQ7VEB8579ESHXDVY5TV
Which will allow you to plug into the outlet upstairs and see where its punched in downstairs.
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However, I see some cut cables in the box and they very well could be the ones wired to upstairs so you would have to remove one of the existing cords (which very well could disconnect something that is currently working) to hook up a new one.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0 I'm thinking about this one. Would you consider it one that would work well for automotive applications?
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=office-products&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1450468724&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=cable+toner
Cheaper option if you only need it for the tone. Otherwise go with the Pro 200 listed in the other comments.
For Tone gen, Fluke makes the gold standard. They also have a cheaper version.
You didn't mention a probe, so maybe you are looking for a cable certifier?. That's super expensive though. if you just have to test that there is continuity and not certify the cables, you can use this, or this if you want to look like a pro.
As for Screwdrivers, Wiha makes the best screw drivers, hands down. I have this set for working on electronics & laptop repair. Magnetic tool-kits are fine. This isn't the 80's anymore. There aren't too many magnetically sensitive items inside a computer anymore. especially with the advent of SSD drives.
As for a toolbox, depending the work, I prefer a tool bag or pouch.
Good luck, hope that helps. What helped for me when I started was to go to harbor freight and just get an assortment of tools. As I worked I slowly replaced the stuff I used all the time with quality gear, and didn't have to burn myself buying expensive tools and gear that I would never use.
Unless there is an electrical conduit there. Test with this:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
> Currently the main coax line goes through the basement direct to the 1st floor wall outlet, then coax to the modem.
I’ve made a drawing of how I understand the internet could go to the splitter, then run again to the 1st floor outlet, then to the modem.
Ideally, you'd have zero interruptions between the coax coming from the street, all the way to the plug on the modem. Since it sounds like the coax enters the walls to the first floor from the basement, just be sure you eliminate any coax splitters by using a barrel adapter
UNLESS you also want a coax drop for Cable TV elsewhere in the house.
Then it's just a matter of making sure you've simplified the circuit to the street using the fewest number of splitters as you can. Each two-way split introduces approximately 3.5dB of loss (a little more than 50%) of power lost. Splitters are also known to be super poorly made and absolutely go bad after a few years of use. You may consider replacing any that you're using. These are decent ones.
> I'm feeling bold
Two of those ethernet strips there in the basement look like basic patch panels. They're just for organizing the cables and don't do any switching, per se. I'd figure out what connections you actually need in the house, beyond maybe a ethernet connection to the modem, the TV and your desktop PC and then go through and eliminate everything else. If you want to double check where the lines are terminated to through the massive web of cables, you can pick up an Ethernet Probe and Test kit to make tracking everything down easier. I'd (ideally) only buy one that has a dedicated ethernet jack and is made by Extech, Fluke, or Klein. As a bonus, It's a handy tool for tracing out ANY sort of wiring, too.
Once you eliminate all the unnecessary stuff, you can start making it look nice. Use some velcro wire ties and bundle everything until it looks respectable. You MAY find that you have odd-length cables used as patch cables between the switch and the patch panel. Don't cut anything, and maybe lay out anything you eliminate by length so you can reuse them if your now-neat-looking bundle could benefit from different-length cables. Don't forget to label everything for clarity using your own philosophy.
> I’m not sure how to use this stuff, if it’s past it’s prime, or if I should even bother. But, If it could be useful I’d like to use it. I just don’t understand it despite reading the sticky’s, etc.
You'll feel a lot more comfortable once you understand what everything is and where it all goes.
All that cable is probably Cat5 or Cat5e at best. If you want to be ready for gigabit speeds in the coming years, you might consider running some new Cat6a or better. I don't know anything about the big switch in the photos, but it's probably doing the job fine for now - If you want faster than 100mbit/s network speeds though, you'll need to upgrade it along with the ethernet. As with the ethernet, it's not a priority, just a nice-to-have.
The big coax amplifier you've got there was probably built in 1974 (note: pre-internet) and is all kinds of lossy/noisy mess. I'd go ahead and get rid of that and anything coax-related that you don't think you'll end up using. There's better stuff available on the market now for stupidly cheap, if you decide that you still need an amplified coax signal.
I'd love to see more pictures once you get it all put together and looking nice. If you need any further hardware advice, let us know!
When I was a field tech, mostly working with structured cabling and networking equipment I took the following along with me, some of these things are no longer needed with VOIP phones though:
Obviously this all doesnt go in one bag, but I had mine in my car/truck all the time. It'd be a lot easier in an office.
To determine which goes to where you need a sniffer, I recommend Fluke
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-PRO3000-Tone-Probe/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1377228442&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fluke+sniffer
clip on the wire in the room you want active then "sniff" the wires in the mech room
Theres no way out of crimping your terminations. So sniff the ones you want active and only do those. Cat 5 is a PITA if you've never done it before. After you do about 20 you'll be a pro.
Also the mech room is where the router (and most likely modem) will be
Theoretically you could place the modem in another room and run cat 5 from there to the router which has to be in the mech room but that seems complicated to me located
I've been working on fitting the insides of an inductive probe from a Fox and Hound into a sonic screwdriver. After that I may fit an Arduino Micro into one pre-programmed with some useful features. Not entirely sure what those features will end up being, though.
I recently did this for my home. Thankfully, the AT&T gateway is located where my phone lines all come together. Since the lines were labelled, I thought this would be an easy project, however, they were all labelled WRONG.
Thankfully, I had a Toner like this [one] (https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HEPGH60EX4THM4PETEVP).
Something like this would let you trace through that conduit most likely, i've used it to follow wire run in EMT inside of cement blocks before. It was very, very feint in that scenario but it worked.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FTADX0?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creativeASIN=B000FTADX0&amp;linkCode=xm2&amp;tag=vrefid-20
Generally it is pretty loud, especially at a receptacle or panel and can work through drywall as well.
If you're somewhat familiar with electrical wiring, I'd say grab a tone generator & probe and trace the various leads from there - I've mostly used the RJ-45 stuff, but pretty sure there's 120VAC compatible stuff out there. (Technically, I'm sure they'd all work... some are just a little more user friendly to various specs than others)
If you're not familiar with electrical wiring... a tone generator plugs into one end of a wire and sends a signal down it. You can then take the probe (a fancy speaker) and poke it around listening for the signal to find the other end of the wire. Once you find all the ends, switches, junctions, etc you can build a pretty decent wiring diagram. Make sure you kill the breaker before plugging anything in, and keep in mind anything designed for low voltage might not have enough power to drive a signal over larger gauge AC wiring.
Personally, I'm partial to the Fluke brand - they're basically the defacto name brand in the industry, and a quick search turned up this one.
Happy to answer questions or elaborate, either here or via PM.
Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.
While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.
There are relatively cheap meters designed specifically for testing wiring. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8a1sDb0156PJ9
Couple thoughts. Is there maybe a problem with wiring? I would get one of these and try all the plugs to see if you have an issue like a bad ground. There are others that look like this one, but most will not give you as good of a test. Sperry Receptacle Tester ($8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_hg-rDb7HMV8WX
For a good whole house protection from a unit like the Square D HEPD80, its common to run into issues with placement. I like using the EATON CHSPT2ULTRA, but similar specs. Its a little more difficult, but I have run them outside directly through the back of the breaker panel to a small metal wall box on the outside. Little more work, but this keeps the leads short (important) and even lets me check on the surge protector LEDs very easily). They normally have something like this at HD/Lowes - here is something similar: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T5BRO4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_tr-rDbAYB73ZJ
How much per kWh does your electricity cost? 19 Cents per Kilowatthour?
https://www.eia.gov/electricity/monthly/epm_table_grapher.php?t=epmt_5_6_a
It really does not sound like the PC is causing this..
You said you purchased an electricity usage monitor?
What did it read? what is it currently reading? You should keep it hooked up so you can get an over time look at your power usage..
Your PC should not cost more than about $15 -$20 a month to run MAX..
It can not even imagine a faulty PSU causing this.. and if it was a power strip it should have blown up by now and burned your house down..
You could get a outlet tester: like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511526107&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=outlet+tester&amp;tag=gamersnexus01-20
To make sure you do not have a faulty outlet..
What you can do is hook up the Kill-A-Watt meter and put your PC to sleep see if the Power Supply is still drawing that god awful amount of power.. and Check your monitor make sure the power brick is not faulty..
That kind of power would generate a LOT of heat your room should be a sauna if it is the PC
If you check your PC parts Picker it is showing your Power draw at
36W to 146W max..
https://www.pcmag.com/article/343177/how-to-measure-home-power-usage
Watts / 1000 * Hours used x (Cost per Kilowatt-hour)= Total Cost..
Your PC Max should be about 146W + 30W for the monitor MAX
Intel - Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor 8W - 65W
MSI - H110M Gaming Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard 15W - 60W
Avexir - Core Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory 11W - 11W
Crucial - MX300 750GB 2.5" Solid State Drive 2W - 10W
Monitor is 30W
So do the math 176W
176/1000 = .176 of a Kilowatt
Say your PC uses 350 watts, including monitor, while playing a graphically-intensive game, and your kWh cost is $0.19. If you were to play for one hour straight, it would cost you:
350 / 1000 * 0.19 = $0.07 per hour
Lets say for arguments sake you used all 550W of your Power supply + Monitor 30W that would be 580W 10 cents per hour or $1.76 per day or about $53 a month.. MAX and your PC should be pumping out enough heat to make you sweat. ( Not to mention your Power Supply would not last very long )
This still does NOT account for the increase in your bill... It is NOT the PC it can NOT be the PC
Hook a Kill-A-Watt meter to the PC and give us the numbers..
If it is over 100 Watts while your doing nothing there is a problem..
If it is over 350 Watts while your working there is a problem..
Try to buy cheap junk from Walmart or Amazon until you know exactly what you want. You don't need a $60 pair of pliers or a $300 drill when you're learning.
Get one of these devices. It'll tell you how screwed up your outlets are.
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_bxgy_328_img_3
Any hardware store has these, no need to order from amazon, or any particular brand.
Well it has to be something with the electricity in the house, and the chargers are smart enough to sense that and not work (I guess). There is a device you can plug into outlets that can detect issues (really long link below). This is a very useful, cheap, tool that you will use several times over the decades you live/own a home.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sxr_zg_dy_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=3525596382&amp;pd_rd_wg=OOxLD&amp;pf_rd_r=25QHY3ETGE3FYBZQ6PF0&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-rhs-carousels&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B000RUL2UU&amp;pd_rd_w=cmB9C&amp;pf_rd_i=electrical+tester&amp;pd_rd_r=c6e22401-47d8-437c-8bcf-4a91ca469380&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523146792&amp;sr=1
Buy one of these
https://www.amazon.ca/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519793985&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=outlet+tester+gfci
plug it in to each outlet until you find the problem. If all the outlets check out you may have an issue with a switch or a light fixture. Or just call an electrician. A/C is not for the inexperienced and will kill you.
You can buy these for $6 on Amazon, worth every penny
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483448364&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=electrical+tester
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Indication/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_sim_469_6?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000RUL2UU&amp;pd_rd_r=HT26F4SKXJW8S987QG82&amp;pd_rd_w=4d6tI&amp;pd_rd_wg=YT2n0&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HT26F4SKXJW8S987QG82 should i buy something like that?
Not to fear-monger (too much) but if you saw something glowing orange in that socket, then you have narrowly averted a fire. What you smelled *was* burnt plastic and maybe wire insulation. You may not have had a flaming fire but do not misunderstand - you came very close to a potential house fire.
Any electric heating element pulls a LOT of current and can cause overheating/fires. I'm in the US but I'm also sure CA has similar electrical requirements to prevent disasters. I'd guess that something is wrong with that particular circuit, or possibly multiple circuits. The breaker/fuse should have tripped before it reached a situation that could cause a fire. Things to check would be the rating of the breaker on that circuit (it may not be matched to the wire of the circuit) or for too many devices on the circuit (or combinations of the above). If you wanted to check the current required by your pot, you can buy a "Watt meter" at your local big box supply store or online. "Kill-A-Watt" is one popular brand and they run about $20-25 USD. At this point, I'd strongly suggest that you have an electrician or someone fully knowledgeable inspect your breaker panel and house wiring to be certain that you are safe going forward. You'll need to immediately replace that receptacle as well so maybe pay someone to do that and check things while they are there.
I'd also check the polarity of the wiring and the grounds at every outlet - you can find polarity checkers cheap like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU.
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Finally note that GFCI outlets have nothing to do with high-wattage appliances. GFCI means Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter - they are mandated to be used when any outlet is within the proximity of a sink, hose, etc. - water of any kind. They would break the power to the circuit in the event of a ground fault that could cause you to be electrocuted. Test these periodically as they do sometimes go back and loose their protective qualities.
Hope this helps - be safe.
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This sounds like a shielding problem, you can buy a cheap receptacle tester to tell you if you have problems with the wiring in your home.
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487102109&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=receptacle+tester
the only thing you can do as a tenant is get a receptacle tester then you can give your landlord more info on the problem
Well I'm going to pick up one of these today and check out all my outlets
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541514953&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Tester+AC+Outlet
Between the two, would you get an AVR or UPS? My computer is 400w with maybe another 100w with peripherals and monitor.
Also, get a continuity tester. That way you can tell if the outlet is hot or wired correctly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v3G-BbNR3T6V6
There's a couple handy tools you'll want.
A receptacle tester: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU makes it easy to see if your GFCI outlet is A. wired correctly and B. trips properly. A perk here, is you can also use this tester to see if your normal outlet is chained to a GFCI outlet or on a GFCI breaker, as they'll trip just as well if you use the test button on this tool.
Actually, you can get both in one: https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-STK001-Non-Contact-Receptacle/dp/B002JGQAQ6 but you want something handy to check if a wire is live. After I believe I've turned off a circuit, I test it a couple times, usually going to a live circuit too to make sure the tester is also working. I want to be super confident before I touch it.
And yeah, I usually never do electrical work without a friend present, just in case I do something dumb. Never work with electrical alone if you can avoid it.
You can pickup a simple outlet test tool for very, very cheap: https://smile.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488298170&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=GFCI+test
I have one and use one to service homes new and old to test for common wiring fault problems. This could help you eliminate wiring issues from the problem.
Good call. In preparation, you could test the outlet (if you've the means), and double check your video card connectors are clean, and that there's no hint of burnt smell anywhere.
Hmmmm, about all I can think of other than bad luck is either get a good surge protector if you don't have one or better yet a UPS as someone suggested. And while probably not super necessary having something like this isn't a bad idea to have on hand (this was just the first receptacle tester I found): https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=EE0D91J1R8YBHMQEW8P5
Otherwise I think it is just bad luck or someone is coming into your home and randomly breaking your PS4.
I can tell you that it's a bad ground for sure and a short somewhere in the dishwasher itself. The ground issue is either in the dishwasher itself or in the electrical system in your house. A simple plug tester like this http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449799157&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Plug+tester will tell you which one it is. Sorry for the long link, I don't know how to shorten them. If it's the dishwasher Bosch has a really good warranty and will send someone to your house to fix it. Until then unplug it because it could possibly cause a fire.
This one is the apparently the top seller and it's on the cheaper side, and it does GFCI testing too.
Plug it in, you want to see two oranges. Nice and simple. It doesn't guarantee a true ground, but there's something that resembles one..
Other than that, you can pick 'em up anywhere... any will probably suffice If you've got a hardware store nearby, you can probably save a couple of bucks on 'em. the "official" name is a "Receptacle tester".
Careful though.. they're tricksy bastards! I've purchased something like 15-20 of them.. I couldn't tell you where a single one of them is right now....
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU
Get one of these verify you have a ground issue. Then call an electrician.
Try hook the disposal directly to a regular outlet (use an extension cable). If there's nothing wrong with it, it should just be on shredding until you unplug it. To test the outlet itself, use a tester like this.
Buy a plug in tester. http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Outlet-Tester/dp/B000RUL2UU/
You should go to home depot and buy one of those plug tester devices. You plug it in your outlet and it says if it's wired wrong. I suspect the return is going through ground or something. Check all your outlets. This isn't just a case of "my power is really dirty". For it to be this bad, I think it's got to be wired totally wrong.
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=outlet+tester&amp;qid=1554167020&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
Also you could run an extension cord and try an outlet from another room. Have you checked all your speaker wires to make sure they're not shorting?
OP, here's an example of one
I just bought one of these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 will that help?
I'd recommend getting an inexpensive outlet/receptacle tester and testing any outlet that you will be plugging equipment into. If it doesn't test correctly, notify the staff at the building and don't use it. It's not the complete solution, but it is a great start.....
Something like this...... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RUL2UU/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bxldN_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&amp;pf_rd_r=HWWEYSS763CCFCJ6GS1R&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_p=e32b96c7-50a4-5f19-ae33-9408ab96b97e&amp;pf_rd_i=14244461
You can buy testers for it online.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1453943093&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=ground+tester&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51mLOd%2BDHqL&amp;ref=plSrch
So it sounds like the outlets weren't grounded as someone already stated. The surge protector had nowhere to shunt any excess current to so it just went to your equipment. It's strange that your mother board was blown and not your power supply.
Nevertheless, I wouldn't plug a computer into any outlet unless I new it was grounded. If you do run an extension cord, there's three things to remember. Firstly, make sure the extension cord is a grounded one. Secondly, make sure the outlet is properly wired. Thirdly, make sure to make the cord as short as possible and don't cover it up with anything (rugs, carpet, etc.)
How do you check an outlet? The simplest method is to use a circuit tester. It's pretty cut and dry and it's a non-invasive way to make sure every wire is in the right place.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RUL2UU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451367300&amp;sr=1-1&amp;pi=AC_SX220_SY330_FMwebp_QL65
One of these might be helpful to you:
Power Gear 50542 3-Wire Receptacle Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y9hYxbPG7ZZG1
Get a $5 outlet tester.
http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester/dp/B002LZTKIA
Worth its weight in gold. You'll be surprised how often it comes in handy - just testing if an outlet is live, e.g.
I'm lazy, I just use a $6 plug-in outlet tester.
Power Gear 50542 3-Wire Receptacle Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_G9i2xb8HMR1DW
Off topic but maybe useful https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA?psc=1
As others have said, it's likely a grounding issue. If you are in the U.S. or Canada, get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524350592&amp;sr=8-18&amp;keywords=electrical+outlet+tester
It will tell you if your outlet is wired correctly. If it isn't, that is likely your problem. The solution would be to fix the outlet, which should be done for safety reasons, or temporarily move to another properly-wired outlet and see if the problem goes away.
You can buy an outlet tester like this to check.
In addition to the other two suggestions regarding ground loops, make sure your amps are plugged into two different wall sockets.
You may also want to get a cheap outlet tester just to test things out.
This is probably part of the issue.
Do you have a voltage meter?
You could try connecting the ground lug of the receiver to the ground pin at the wall socket. Or convert the receiver to 3 pin plug.
It would be good to verify with an outlet tester that everything is wired correctly (they are supper cheap) https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
Many people will disagree with me, and with valid reasons. But if the outlet is wired correctly, there really isn't anything wrong with removing the ground pin from the sub.
You would obviously want to use a GFCI outlet for all that equipment.
Ground loops and the really difficult stuff, and sometimes it is actually an engineer defect in the equipment.
That PDF file recommend in the other comment is very good, and you should read it even if most of it seems advanced. They do a good job of explaining the concepts.
Let me know if you have specific questions about what to measure.
If you really mean 120 cycle hum, (not the usual 60hz hum) then it is potentially a filter cap issue. The mains power is 60hz but after rectification it is 120hz. At that point the filter caps are supposed to smooth that 120hz ripple.
First step is still to eliminate the possibilities and take it to another site with different power/interference/etc. I would also get an AC outlet checker, like this one, and check the wiring. I've seen some messed up house wiring.
Lot's of potential interference in any modern home. Could be lights, computers, etc. If it's fluorescent lights, try keeping old incandescent bulbs in the music room, maybe.
Use one of these, I might also recommend opening one or two outlets with the power off to make sure it's not a bootleg ground.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
> If the other circuits have a ground, there's just a wire come loose somewhere, which would not be difficult to track down for an electrician.
Not necessarily. They could have replaced some of the outlets with grounds, and didn't have access to a ground in this outlet for some reason or another.
OP definitely needs to let management handle this. Best you can do is get an outlet tester and see if you have another grounded outlet accessible.
Remind maintenance that if the outlet is not grounded, it should be either a 2-prong outlet, or have GFCI protection in order to meet NEC.
I'd just go get one of these guys if I had no other test equipment available.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-3-Wire-Receptacle-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
They're $5-10 at pretty much any hardware store.
Outlet testers are cheap and effective.
https://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-Receptacle-Indications-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=55627270763&amp;hvadid=274723474509&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=1022653&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=12869203484087416750&amp;hvtargid=kwd-300397334292&amp;keywords=outlet+tester&amp;qid=1550862896&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5&amp;tag=hydsma-20
I'm not an electrition, so this may not be a perfect explanation. but the ground pin gives your device a way to discharge static electricity or overvoltage by giving the electricity a way to "escape" from the system. Remember the First Law of Thermodynamics:
> Energy cannot be created or destoyed, only transfered.
So if you want to deal with a voltage spike, you can't just eliminate that electiricity. It has to be transfered, converted, or similar. In the case of modern homes, it is transfered into the earth via a third ground wire. Ordinarilly the path of least resistance will be your electronics, and power will flow through that instead of the ground wire. In an overloaded circuit that path of least resistance should be the ground. So it effectively works as a primitive form of voltage control.
From this site
>A surge protector used at a non-grounded receptacle is a glorified extension cord, and provides no additional protection, only a false sense of protection.
Something like this outlet tester will let you know if your house is wired up correctly or not. Just because an outlet has 3 pins doesn't mean that third pin is necessarily connected to anything.
>If an outlet isn't grounded, what can it do to your gear
Overcharge and destroy it. Possible fire risk.
For something that's off, it generally won't matter, so don't freak out if your vacuume or toaster only has a two-prong outlet. But for something you might use in a storm and that uses a substantial amount of electricity (i.e. a computer, air conditioner or heater), or that is particularly sensitive, that ground wire is important.
You'll find most modern TVs and light fixtures don't have a third prong. I am not 100% sure why but I assume it's because they have such a low power draw.
>and how would one go about addressing that?
The only real way is to hire an electrition, rewire your outlets yourself (be safe! Turn off your circuit breakers first!) or choose a different, grounded outlet. There's no quick fix or adapter to "ground" an outlet that I know of, at least not that are safe and to code.
You'll find
Me thinks one of these would be a good idea
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_5LGEzb90DQ3QT a receptacle tester.
The green screw is irrelevant unless the ground wire is connected. You have to figure out which is which.
An outlet tester will help; connect each wire
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA
http://www.amazon.com/GE-3-Wire-Receptacle-Tester-50542/dp/B002LZTKIA
Always nice to have one of these around for a quick check.
I am not an electrician, nor am I experienced with home wiring.
You can buy a tester for your outlets. That said, it would probably be more prudent to get an electrician in. You're going to need to call one anyway.
Anyway, the 120V/240V/0V thing refers to the split-phase power delivery system common in North America. In this system you have two hot wires, instead of just one. One of those hot wires is the inverse voltage of the other (so if we say that ground is 0V, then when the first hot wire is at 120V, the other hot wire is at -120V). If you connect ground to hot, you get a certain voltage (120V). If you connect the first hot to the second hot, you get double that voltage (240V).
As to what is happening in your case, I've no idea. In a proper wiring setup, the ground wire (and thus all things connected to the ground wire, like the case of an appliance, your junction boxes, etc.) are directly attached to a big metal thing stuck deep in the earth.
Testing the outlet is easy, I think something like this would work?
Power Gear 3-Wire Receptacle Tester
50542 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZTKIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6CmHzb4P7QZQV
That's perfectly safe to use.
As for risk to yourself, I'm not an electrician so I can't speak authoritatively to any additional risk from an ungrounded amp. I'm pretty sure there is some added risk though. Low, but still.
Well that should rule that out unless they screwed up the wiring. If you want to be 100% sure you can always grab a outlet tester.
Otherwise it sounds like you just have some really really bad luck and I hope they'll get their heads together and fix it for you as they should have just sent you a new unit after the 2nd time.
Did you use an outlet checker? I found out those will report everything is correct if the hot and neutral are swapped and you have a bootleg ground (or no ground)
Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA/ can show if the outlet is wired properly. "Open Ground" would indicate that the outlet is not properly grounded and will make the PC more sensitive to static shocks and surges.
My old apartment had a grounding issue and any time I plugged in a USB device, built up charge in the device would cause a surge and crash my PC.
In the mean time, try using an outlet in an entirely different part of the house.
Not sure if this will help solve your particular problem, but I personally plug one of these: http://www.amazon.com/o/ASIN/B002LZTKIA/?tag=dp-us-20
in after every receptacle install.
It's possible. Go to a hardware store and buy one of these and check to see if the outlets are grounded. Just because the outlet is 3 prong doesn't necessarily mean the outlet is grounded. Also check to make sure nothing in your chain has the ground prong broken off, like a power strip or something before it gets to the wall.
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Gear-50542-3-Wire-Receptacle/dp/B002LZTKIA
Once you've checked to see that the gas to the appliance is on...
Have you tried working the oven or broiler (if it has one)?
It sounds like it could be a gas valve issue with the stove/oven itself.
Further: You may want to consider testing the outlet that it's plugged in to with a receptacle tester. If the polarity is reversed on the outlet, the gas valve may not open, which is a safety feature. Sounds weird, but I've run in to that issue a handful of times.
Edit: Added further info.
Typically as other people have stated generators run only the necessary systems. Usually only the refrigerator is considered a needed appliance in the backup generator world.
Not HVAC related but just because the outlet in the box is 3 prong doesn't mean it is actually a grounded outlet. If this is a major point for you then it'd be worth getting that checked out. A simple outlet tester will indicate if new wiring or wiring with a ground was actually run.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA?pc_redir=1395427616&amp;robot_redir=1
Here is the mobile version of your link
> Firstly, that ground wire must be sufficiently large
I am guessing I will have to measure the thickness of it with a caliper.
In terms of checking all the outlets to find which ones are truly grounded, would I use a tool like this?
As far as the electrical goes, its easy to do but, for the love of God, turn the power off while working on it! Networking your house ain't worth your life!! Watch some YouTube videos on how to wire the the receptacle.
Buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LZTKIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451424239&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=receptacle+checker&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51hlg2obNeL&amp;ref=plSrch
After you wire the receptacle, turn the power on, and plug this in. It will show you if you made any mistakes. Just read the instructions.
The hardest part you're going to run into is getting from the crawl space to the attic. Try and find a plumbing drain. Plumbers generally cut the holes way bigger than needed and you can slide in beside them.
Another option is using a fireplace if you have one. The framing around it should be loose enough for you to fish wires down beside it.
The easiest thing you can do is run a PVC pipe on the exterior of the house in an inconspicuous spot and paint it to match your house.
Save yourself a million headaches by pulling a pull string along with your wires for subsequent runs. Twine is cheap.
Feel free to ask me anything else you might be curious about!
Source: am electrician.
Yes, thats possible.
Basically, you're setting up a rule in Smartthings under the "Smart Lights" smartapp that says, turn on <GE switch> when motion is detected with <motion sensor>.
Alternatively, I would recommend using Lutron motion sensor (https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC). It's just cheaper and does the same thing.
While I do have plenty of GE zwave switches and Hue bulbs throughout my house, I have those Lutron motion switch in my garage, pantry, laundry room, bathrooms, etc.. I dont need those rooms to be smart--just need to turn on when motion is detected.
edit: missed the part that said the switch is inside the house. The first option is best for your use case.
I used these. They work great so far!
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
I used these for all motion sensor switches and these for the humidity sensor fan switches.
Have you considered motion sensor switches? I tried the smart switch route but found no neutral and switched to using motion sensor switch instead.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC
Do you have a switch in the closet? Or just power for a light like a pull chain?
If you have a switch, install a motion sensing light switch
If you just have a pull chain/bare socket...install one of these
Does each area have its own switch? If so, forget automation with door sensors. Grab a PIR switch, such as
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC
No reason to over complicate it
It's not really smarthome, but lutron makes switches that do that. It's the vacancy option.
Basically they have two settings. Occupancy will turn lights on when they detect motion. Vacancy requires you to turn them on, but turns them off after a period of no motion.
Lutron Maestro Sensor switch, 2A, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_smS7Bb8Q8CAKA
If you do not need it to be IOT connected these lutron occupancy sensors work extremely well. They have different settings and you can set it so that it turns on manually but turns off after a slightly Variable set time no motion.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/
If you have a zwave hub this GE switch has the proper modes to turn off but not on.
GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Lighting Control Motion Sensor Dimmer Switch, In-Wall, Vacancy / Occupancy Sensor, White & Light Almond Buttons, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink & Alexa, 26933 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071Y38FX5
If you don’t want it to integrate with a hub, the below can do what you want in the proper mode.
Lutron Maestro Sensor switch, 2A, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC
I want something like this https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC
Yea it's pretty standard for that time period. People will still do it now. Basically the "feed" is at the light location and they ran a single Romex cable to the switch location. Switch boxes were smaller back then so it was even more motivation to do it that way so less wires would be at switching locations.
You can either find an occupancy sensor that doesn't require a neutral to operate like this or rewire.
would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uK9azbEYSWR72
In my 30 seconds of googling, Occupancy sensors looks like what I want.
I like these http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MS-OPS2-WH-Maestro-Single-Occupancy/dp/B005WM3ALC
unless someone has a better idea.
Both of your examples are good examples of overthinking things, in my opinion. I bet you have switches on both sides of your family room - on one side, you can get to the dining room lights and on the other, to the kitchen lights. So if you have one central "fancy" switch, now what - you're going to manage your kitchen lights on the way from the dining room? It's ok to use a regular switch when it makes sense. And your basement example is almost identical to my front entrance and all I did was put in a motion sensor switch and now the lights turn on when I open the door and turn off after a few seconds of no motion (that config won't work for basement but you can get one that turns off at the top with a physical switch). Something like this (not exactly what I have) - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005WM3ALC/
I've put these in rooms I use the most & they are great.
Something like these. Lutron Maestro Sensor Switch, 2 Amp, No Neutral Required, Single-Pole, MS-OPS2-WH, White https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TGBUDbAGK76S9 (note the Canadian prices)
I have that motion light thing in my garage, it works when it wants to, it has several blind spots.
I'd go with something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-MS-OPS2-WH-Maestro-Single-Occupancy/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381036151&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=lutron+motion+sensor+light+switch
I have that in my laundry room and it is way more reliable.
Or this Lutron only rated for 2Amps.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Maestro-Required-Single-Pole-MS-OPS2-WH/dp/B005WM3ALC/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_cp_0_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B005WM3ALC&amp;pd_rd_r=THVXV6CTVR7TXZMKASJA&amp;pd_rd_w=WY7tS&amp;pd_rd_wg=LLcvE&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=THVXV6CTVR7TXZMKASJA
Actually, if you already have a light install something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC
$20 solution that is a motion sensor for your closet light, best thing I've ever done. I can walk into the closet, light comes on, then goes off after 60 seconds to 10 minutes depending on the setting.
Honestly if all you are wanting is the lights to turn on when someone walks in the room you may be better off not going with a smart solution. You can do what you want with Hue bulbs.
There are also a number of bulbs with motion sensors built in. I've never used one personally, so I'd do more research to see how it knows when to turn off.
https://top10perfect.com/top-best-motion-sensor-light-bulbs-reviews/
But your best and cheapest solution might be this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005WM3ALC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486211121&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=vacancy+sensor+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31E-2BSEFmL&amp;ref=plSrch
I know you said you were worried about messing with wiring, but honestly in most homes (I'm assuming you are in America, excuse my assumption if you are not) to change out a switch you literally turn off the breaker that switch is on, unscrew the cover, take out two more screws that hold the switch against the wall and then there are two wires going to the switch. Take those out and put them in the new switch and reverse the process. It is insanity simple in most cases.
Anyways, hope that's helpful. Let me know if you have any more questions.
What about installing two of these, one at the top switch and one at the bottom? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Then, configure the setting to turn on by motion but turn off after 1, 5, or 15 minutes if no movement is detected. You can still press the button to manually turn on if needed.
Under cabinets look great (as you noted), and work great when they are on.
&#x200B;
I think the reason people don't use them is because they are not typically wired to a switch on old houses; and/or hot bulbs overheat and damage themselves.
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The solution is LED lights, triggered by a sensor like this or this that turn them on and off for you. LED don't overheat much, and the sensor turns them off, and on, for your convenience and safety.
Unless you want redundancy, your thermostat can be your freeze sensor. The ecobee will send out temperature notifications and it also supports high/low thresholds on IFTTT if you're into that.
Also, look into motion sensing light switches. I use them in bathrooms and closets and they suit me well. They're a pretty cheap way to get some additional convenience.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WM3ALC?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
GE's not quite as expensive. Check these out. You'll need one smart dimmer for every light, then however many add-on switches.
GE z-wave smart dimmer
GE add-on switch
Is there any reason you're not considering a smart dimmer? You can get them as a switch or a plug. (There are also WiFi versions, if Z-Wave isn't your thing.) Then you can use whichever light you like, as long as they are marked as "dimmable" on the packaging.
I'm not a proponent of smart bulbs in general because, while they last long, they do still burn out. But I understand they are a good solution for some people, though. I hope you find what works for you.
I use the GE Z-Wave Plus Smart Control Dimmer Switch with SmartThings for my exterior lights. I really like that they are set to turn on at sunset and turn off at sunrise.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MUCZA1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
While I can't speak to the outlet, I have the GE Z-Wave light switch and it has worked flawlessly with Abode. I would think that the outlet would be similar.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1541907588&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=GE+Z-wave+switch
For that I would use a couple z-wave wall switches. Since it would be the easiest to implement. GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Fan Control, Speed ONLY, in-Wall, Includes White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 14287, White and GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, In-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294
I use zwave GE smart switches. They are reliable and work amazing! I have one for my light and fan in the bathroom currently with a few different automation. zero issues.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Enbrighten-Repeater-SmartThings-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_3?crid=196U15RIKMG2C&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&qid=1569958084&s=gateway&sprefix=ge+z+wave+s%2Caps%2C237&sr=8-3
I would stay away from wifi light bulbs and wifi switches. Z wave is probably the best connection for those kinds of devices, especially if you want reliable fast local automation.
I used that
GE Enbrighten Z-Wave Plus Smart Dimmer Switch, Full Dimming, in-Wall, Incl. White and Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater/Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required, Works with SmartThings, Wink, Alexa, 14294 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hbVBCbDJXQR0C
You could keep your current bulbs and install a smart switch instead, this is a popular option:
https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506608062&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=ge+smart+switch&amp;psc=1
You would need a hub with that, but considering smartthings is selling for $50 on Amazon it could be more cost effective depending on the amount of bulbs you would have to replace if you went with smart bulbs instead.
For the smart bulb option I'd say check out sylvania lightify. Lowes has them on sale now for 75% off. They're $7.50 for the basic white ones. It can pair directly with most smart home hubs like smartthings or wink so if you already have one it would be very cost effective.
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Lightify-promotion/4294400949
The GE Model 14294 is $40 on amazon
Its "officially" recognized by wink - Linking this switch up with wink hub 2 is super easy
https://www.amazon.com/New-Model-Wireless-Lighting-Wall/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520302424&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ge+14294
You have a few options, you can use traditional z-wave devices and then pair them to a remote like the Aeon Labs minimote and operate them that way (no hub required). I also discovered that GE has a bluetooth switch that you can program and operate remotely with your phone but looks like you don't want to use a phone.
Edit: as /u/gurase mentioned Lutron has a system that will work too.
I'd suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2/
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/
and if you get a hub later, you can still use these devices so that is a plus.
White is the neutral. Three wires would be black (hot), white(neutral) and the bare copper (ground).
When you would see more wires is for a 3-way light switch or a ceiling fan with a light where you may see a red wire.
Last week I installed a 3-way switch using the GE switches(Dimmer and Add-on). It was quite a hassle for a non-electrician because there are so many possible wiring configurations. I had to bust out my multi-meter and do some trial and error for over an hour to determine the hot, neutral, line, load and two travelers.
In my case the hot and neutral were in two different switch boxes but luckily I had another switch in that same box that had a neutral (they all go back to the same place, neutral bus bar)
This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284077&amp;sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat: http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284145&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1461284177&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=echo
>
There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."
This one shows 500W but it says nothing about Halogen. I have no idea if there needs to be a differentiation?
http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462298941&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ge+zwave+dimmer
Does this allow it to work as a dimmer, or just as a binary switch?
The Amazon page says it's NOT WINK compatible
But name-brand GE is cheaper?
This is the one I've been using:
GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer (In-Wall), 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5LzDxbDAQFFY3
Most old dimmers would make my lights flicker or buzz... and this was back when only incandescent bulbs could be dimmed. It's not anything to worry about, but it's definitely annoying. It really depends on the type of bulb as some are worse than others.
Newer LED bulbs may humm similarly when dimmed though some will blink. I have several completely quiet ones but I also have several that say they are dimmable but don't dim that much until you get down to 40% and they definitely hum past that. Though the buzz isn't nearly as loud as I remember incandescent bulbs with x10 dimmers. I'm using the GE zwave dimming wall switches.
Check the reviews of any bulbs you're interested in and make sure others mention how well they work with dimmers. I have a handful of "dimmable" bulbs that will dim, but start blinking or buzz when they get low. But I got them because they were cheap and didn't do my research.
the beauty of the z-wave light switches is that if somebody turns off the light by hand, you can always switch it back on with automation. so you'll always be able to control the hues from automation app.
[these ge switches](GE Z-Wave Smart Dimmer, In-Wall, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KEO3xbHRNDQBB)
another reason i went with z-wave switches is that i can mix and match my bulb types. some fixtures can be plain led bulbs and still have on/off or dimming capability via the switch.
the velcro solution is a neat one and i'd probably end up doing just that if i was in an apt or unwilling to spend extra money.
??? any dimmer or on off GE switch can be made into a 3 way as long as you add the add-on switch or dimmers. there is a piece of tape on the back that covers the traveler you take off. PM me if you have questions ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2
I'm technically savvy but more on the software side than the hardware side. I was geared up to do it myself until I started reading about 3-phase light switches (when you have more than one switch that controls a set of lights) and then it started to go over my head with load, line, neutral, etc...I figured: "Hey, I don't wanna burn my house down. Let's leave this to the pros."
I've done a ton of research but there is so much information out there that the more you look the less you know. I was looking at the GE 12724 but I'm open to recommendations as well.
I do know I'll be using the Samsung SmartThings hub for the brains of the whole thing. I'll likely tie in a Logitech Harmony hub in there too along with a Google Home for voice activation.
Thanks!
it might work, but it certainly isnt officially compatible. lutron holds a patent, and the 45612 expressly states it's for incandescent use only. actually, all of them are 'for incandescent use'.
edit: sorry, man, this one got under my skin, and is why crowd sourced information is both awesome and awful at the same time. for anyone else reading, DO NOT use incandescent dimmer switches to dim LED bulbs. most will end up with bulbs that buzz and flicker while dimmed, and the dim level won't be consistent. with that said, it is possible to get them working as long as you have enough LED bulbs strung together to get above the typical load limit (20/30W, maybe higher) for an incandescent dimmer to operate properly. but don't do it, it's just bad practice.
well, shit. i didnt know this existed. if this is what you were talking about, my bad, you're right.GE 12724i guess not, that requires a neutral.
Thank you for taking the time to reply, every bit of help is appreciated.
Maybe you can clarify. I have two GE 12724's. Just focusing on the 'master', near the breaker first- I only have three connections and ground, not four. If you look at the second picture here, the fourth connection is covered, and says 'no 120V'.
Secondly, and less importantly, can I used a second 12724 as a slave? I can always replace it later on with an aux switch, I'd just like to have light for the time being at least. Worst case, I do have a manual three way I could toss in for the time being too.
Lastly, god forbid I made the connections incorrectly, are these switches prone to burning out with swapped line and load, or do they simply (and I imagine more likely) just not work?
GE / Jasco dimmer switches, ~$40 on Amazon, a few bucks less without the dimmer function.
Plug and play zwave functionality, just make sure there is a neutral wire.
I'm controlling incandescents, halogen, LEDs and I think at least one CFL with them and had no issues with the switches.
I am using a SmartThings hub to control them, FWIW.
EDIT: There is a zigbee version as well, though I think they are harder to find.
EDIT 2: Just to be clear, you don't HAVE to use the SmartThings hub to control them, you can just tap on the switch and it works like any other paddle dimmer, it just provides the option of controlling via zwave.
IMO it's not hard at all.
Three wires, two screws and a pretty plate to snap into place. The only difficulty I've run into is being short of space in the box.
I use these in my house.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2
Doubtful. You would have to have something that would control the output to the light.
Here's a dimmable smart switch.
I think you are looking for a paddle switch so the light switch doesn't have to be on the "on" position all the time. I see a lot of people use this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482999401&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=Ge+paddle or this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2 I can't speak for Hue or LIFX and Nest because I think they use their own standard (not z-wave so it doesn't play well with smartthings) other than if you would like to change light colors. If I had a clean slate, I would stick with one standard, z-wave products.
Unless I'm misunderstanding, is this similar to what you're looking for? http://www.smarthome.com/ge-45609-z-wave-wireless-lighting-control-on-off-wall-switch.html
There are large number of switches like that available.
You'll need some kind of hub to get them to work though. I don't think you can with just the hue hub.. but you can use Smarthings or whatever.
Then you can tell the switch to be on or off, which would then turn the bulbs on or off.
They also make dimmers: http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
Home depot, lowes, amazon, and everywhere else sells both types.
If you currently have two switches, one for the fan and one for the light, you can get these. I have this setup in my living room and it's pretty sweet. You just need to set up the fan switch as a dimmer so that you can remotely adjust the fan speed just like you would a dimmer.
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Fan Speed Control, 3-Speed
GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Dimmer Switch
I like the GE Z-wave smart dimmer paddle. I've installed 4 of them and 2 add-on switches for the three way switches. No issues so far, they were easy to install, the videos they have on YouTube are very easy to follow. I set up a price alert on amazon for these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006LQFHN2/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 and nabbed them when they got down to $33 each, which is about the best price I've seen.
I used this article for some cursory info on switches, and went with these in the end:
GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724
The price was good for how many switches I was installing, and I like them a lot except for two minor things:
I also got a SmartThings Kit to control them while it was on sale for $100 off for Black Friday (it was the lowest price they've ever sold for, but it's currently $50, which is still pretty good). You can also just get the hub, but I wanted some sensors so the kit made sense to me.
I wish the Hue Hub was a bit more robust, but sadly it can't be used directly in conjunction with any known in-wall switches. However, You can add Hue bulbs to SmartThings, so that can wind up being a central place to manage things.
Personally, I also setup Home Assistant which lets me do a lot more with other product APIs, and lets me control the UI to some extent as well. Be warned though that it does require some understanding of code and servers. I setup the Home Assistant MQTT Bridge for SmartThings so it can talk to my ST Hub, and use it for automation instead of SmartThings. Hypothetically you can just get a Z-Wave USB stick for your Home Assistant server in lieu of something like SmartThings and have it act as a hub directly, but I felt getting a ST Hub was easier.
Finally, I also got a Google Home while it was on sale, and used IFTTT to create custom commands so I can trigger scenes in Home Assistant for things like watching a movie on my projector, watching TV, getting ready for bed, etc. I also want to have it automatically turn the projector and TV on eventually as part of the scene, but haven't had time to play with that yet.
It was a little annoying to setup, but I like it a lot now that everything's humming along.
I used one very similar to this and it worked fine.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519684388&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=12v+3a+power+supply&amp;dpID=41kaSAMcYWL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
I've used a 12V power supply for a motorized curtain project. Something like this should suffice depending on your motor (though if you're using a motor that draws too much current for that power supply it's probably way overpowered). You can run the arduino off of it too, just run the 12V to Vin and ground to ground. You could also use something like this to control the motor, might be easier than making a circuit out of transistors.
LE 16.4ft LED Flexible Light Strip, 300 Units SMD 2835 LEDs, 12V DC Non-waterproof, Light Strips, LED ribbon, DIY Christmas Holiday Home Kitchen Car Bar Indoor Party Decoration (Daylight White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RZ4dAbA6SN1AR
And
LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_f04dAbKTW24T6
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
I mounted these above my workbench, they're super brightL
http://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Lights-Daylight-Lumens-Non-waterproof/dp/B00JQV6Q4I
and then you just need a power adapter:
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8
I mounted them facing down, behind a piece of wood so i see the lights directly.
LED light strips come in 16ft portions and you can cut them to whatever size you want. They are also very cheap!
LED STRIP HERE
110VAC to 12VDC ADAPTER HERE
they plug right in and are super cheap to replace.
Yes you'll need a power supply. If you were to buy this LED tape it comes with one, just cut the barrel connector off, strip the two leads, and connect them to the DMX decoder inputs. Then toss the remote and IR sensor in the garbage.
Or you could buy them on their own. Try not to go too cheap with them. The build you linked to uses a switch mode driver/transformer. They have surge protection and can switch between input voltage but I've found they can make a squealing sound when running.
If it's AC adapter, I think it uses a pretty generic one, you should be able to find it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3owhybBPVHBRM
The product page says a 24w power consumption, so aiming for a 36w or larger power supply would be a good idea, something like this would work just fine.
I went to amazon and ordered these lights and this adaptor. I haven't gotten them in yet, but I'll let you know what I think of them when they do. They seem pretty straight forward but you never know with these kind of things haha.
As for preference of white vs warm (yellow), I used christmas lights and a white fluorescent lamp as different backlighting to see which I liked more. I picked the white because I felt it had a more mysterious/ night time feel (just my opinion haha), but all the Hari and Deepti ones use yellow light so it's all up to personal preference. Post pictures of yours when you finish! I'd love to see how it turns out! :)
This is the one I already bought. Can I just get an adapter for this? LE Power Adapter, Transformers, Power Supply For LED Strip, Output 12V DC, 3A Max, 36 Watt Max, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n-iVAb127J24S
phone chargers are typically 5v, not 12v. Anything with a 12v >250mA output would work, so it just depends what you have laying around. Or you can get something off amazon for maybe 10 bucks at most. such as http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453144942&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=led+power+supply
http://www.amazon.com/Power-Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-Strip/dp/B00DKSI0S8
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Transformers-Supply-Output-Listed/dp/B00DKSI0S8/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_23_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T60MPKWVX3N790BZGRP6 Would this work?
No problem. My particular ones are just green, but the same company sells RGB ones. Got them on Amazon.
The LEDs themselves are here and the power supply is here. Cheers!
I would get this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DKSI0S8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519091480&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=12v+3a&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41kaSAMcYWL&amp;ref=plSrch
The connector on the one you listed is different.
A lot of the $30 - $50 mirrors that are readily available at Walmart, Target etc. are really not that great. They're better than nothing, but that's about it. If she's as into makeup as you say she is, she's going to want something properly bright. If you're looking for a makeup mirror with lights built in already, you're going to have to invest around $80 - $100. Instead, if she already has a mirror, you can just add LED lights around the perimeter, and it works better than most makeup mirrors. Definitely better than the $30-$50 ones.
Here's what I use: this LED strip + this power adaptor. It's super easy to install if she already has a mirror, and it is BRIGHT. It's cheap (around $40CAD), and SUPER functional. I can't recommend it enough. You can probably even get a different adaptor with a switch/dimmer.
Thanks! I got one from Amazon but it doesn't look like it's the right size as my Gledopto controller. Can you help?
This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DKSI0S8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I recommend adding [these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) (along with this as a power source) for light. I have two curio cases lit up with these and it works great.
Sorry, was asleeping. LED strip here
Power supply: here
Shoutout to /u/squadz , got the idea from his thread a while ago.
You can get ROLLS of remote controllable LED lights online. My husband and I use them for lighting our computer cases for instance. Just do a little research in the reviews to make sure people have a good experience with their safety and longevity for the price. https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Changing-Flexible-Controller-44-button/dp/B0040FJ27S
If you are looking for an easy solution around 100 to 200 give philips HUE a try? You can control with your phone and they have a couple of products that provide ambient lighting. https://www.amazon.com/Philips-259945-Bloom-Frustration-Free/dp/B00I12YFP0/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41j4KdlKf9L&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=YGM42E2837A7BAV7AW3M and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0W3CI0/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_6 and they have lots of other hue products too.
You could build up a crown moulding with a small shelf before the ceiling then line it with rope lighting to create a lit ceiling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YaSHR6mfbRE
You could buy a couple of lamps from ikea, craigslist, marshalls, tj max, home goods, then put lower wattage lights (40w or 25w) in them on the 2700 (warmer) side of the spectrum. Dimmable lamps would be a plus just make sure the bulbs are dimmable too. They could be standard lamps, wall mounted plug in lamps, pendants you plug in then hang from the ceiling or even something more zen like a salt lamp: https://www.amazon.com/YYout-Himalayan-Crystal-Dimmable-Electric/dp/B01DP47SDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469690772&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;keywords=dimmable+salt+lamp&amp;psc=1
You can put any pluggable light on a remote with a light switch remote. They can be pretty handy... Or the clapper lol. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469690399&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=plug+remote
Yeah, I've personally never counted on the auto-standby stuff working as people were always complaining on /r/vive so I unplug the lighthouses and headset power.
I did get this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468439174&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=wireless+outlet+switch
But one of the receivers died in a week so returned it and never bought more.
I may give it another shot as either last week's or the week before's SteamVR beta seemed to fix the standby stuff for some. Who knows it may work right for you now that you've ditched the HTC software.
I bought these wireless, remote controlled switches so I can switch the base stations off and on with the remote (and because the buttons are re-assignable I only need a single on-off-pair). Works perfectly fine for me and a lot faster and reliable than the bluetooth standby mode.
Wireless outlet switch remote.
they're still kind of noisy on standby anyway, so I've gone for an external solution instead. These remote controlled outlets are a god send.
Yeah.. I figured out it doesn't seem to exist.. I'm surprised because there are MANY "dumb" plugs with a remote controller (see : https://www.amazon.ca/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Control-3Rx-1Tx/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467918751&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+electrical+outlet ). But those don't have WIFI or android app support..
Too bad.. I wanted to have the comfort of clicking on and off easily from the remote without the hassle of going in my phone BUT still have the option to trigger on something while away from home.
Get a outlet remote to make things easy. I have my lighthouses and headset hooked to these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK?th=1
I realized mine was staying warm when I first got it, also the bluetooth didn't turn off my lighthouses sometimes in one of the early software versions. So I got a remote hooked to all three and can turn them off and on super easy now.
Use remote power switch to turn on / off headset and base stations. Been using the same base station since OG Vive. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=pd_ybh_a_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1VJ1VE39CSYMF6AVGFQF
You won't have bluetooth issues. You can also power off headset for a break to cut down the idle temps.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1494034604&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+power+plug
This doesn't connect to your network at all, it just uses a traditional RF remote to control the wall dongle. It's theoretically 'hackable' by someone within range, but what's the worst they're going to do, turn your light on and off until you unplug it?
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/
I use these.
One for each base station and one for the link/headset.
https://smile.amazon.com/Etekcity-Control-Wireless-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/
Remote controlled power socket
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity%C2%AE-Wireless-Control-Battery-included/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1414525917&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=3+outlet+remote
Sure. Just plug some floor lamps into remote control outlets. You can sticky the remotes by the door. Not the most elegant solution in the world but they work fine. Pretty cheap on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.Lj3DbR46CBYM
I would just get something like this.
Or a new router.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512064862&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=remote+control+outlet&amp;psc=1
We have these sick remote control outlet adapters for each plugin lamp in our home. Just keep the remote in a central place and you’re golden!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVjFRS1RJSUs4S0tXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjUwMzI2UkhaQ0tCRkZSNFg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNzUwOTYzQkIwMldBVVhDOUtUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0
I always keep mine powered off when not using them. I bought and use this per a recommended accessory thread for the Vive:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQ2KGNK/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_21?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A99MZGWBBIGK9
Some have noted that these (https://amzn.com/B00DQ2KGNK) have worked like a champ for situations like yours.
Using Hook https://www.amazon.com/Hook-remote-control-outlets-Amazon/dp/B01ITSEU3C and wireless outlets https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=pd_sim_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=XT4T9HSA4MEJSR1XEMPH
Will probably do it with air compressor as well.
Why not use these? Way cheaper and do the same exact thing? I control all my lights thru Google Home with these.
I got a fan hooked up to one of these. Might just try that when demoing going forward. Never thought about turning it on for demos other then as a way to combat VR motion sickness.
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485373853&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=etekcity+outlet
These? https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS#
I'd not, which ones?
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity®-Auto-programmable-Function-Wireless-included/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1/176-0348618-9065603?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406080234&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=remote+control+for+outlet
Very cool. I use something similar. https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS
I've been having the reverse problem. My base stations will randomly go off while I'm playing. They don't do it if I have the sleep mode disabled. I've been considering getting some of these. Might work for your problem too.
I hear you about the budget. I went with some zap remotes I had around the house and the sonoff RF bridge (standalone is just $10).
You should, in theory, be able to uninstall it. I noticed the google home only takes a snap of the ewelink account. Meaning you can't make updates in the app and have google see them live. You need to unlink the account then relink it for changes to take effect. This btw resets all your google room assignments etc. so each new device added means reassigning and readding all the devices.
If you uninstall you won't be able to use the timers or other feature which are run by the app itself and not google. I said "in theory" because I haven't tried it myself. I use the timers to shut things on and off. I hoping google with update to have a workaround like a device scheduler.
I use those cheap eTekCity remote control outlets to shut my game room surge protectors on and off. I don't think I'm saving any electricity, but I sleep better knowing I don't have a dozen AC adapters from the 1980s plugged in, especially the ones that stay warm even when things are turned off.
This might work for you.
I got the 5 pack AMAZON LINK
1 - Computer
2 - TV
3 - Breakout Box
4 & 5 Lighthouses.
A bonus is when I turn the TV one on the TV comes on automatically.
I have a bunch of these that I use for my lighthouses, and just about everything else (lights, ambilight, guitar pedals, etc). They work nicely.
This one should work however. All you need is a 433Mhz transmitter.
Oh Wow! This just made my cheap home automation even cheaper.. This is my rig: a 2x $30 pack of 5 RF outlets and a $50 Hook that converts these outlets into smart outlets, with a $49 echo dot now i can control all my lamps and appliances in my home all under $200 with my Voice and my phone.. Loving it!
RF. Hes probably talking about these. It's what I use, I soldered into one of the controllers, and have the other one to use.
You can also directly control them with 433 transmitters, people ha e decoded the protocol required.
there’s many!
Etekcity Remote Control Outlet Kit Wireless Light Switch for Household Appliances, Unlimited Connections, Up to 100 ft. Range, FCC Certified, ETL Listed, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QxEDDbQ2E9H2J
Wireless Remote Control Outlet, Kasonic Smart Home Remote Control Multi Purpose Combo Set [3 Electrical Outlets + 1 Remote] Perfect for Household Appliances and Devices; ETL-Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BH5S222/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FyEDDbS64CY6X
DEWENWILS Wireless Wall Control Outlet, Electrical Remote On Off Light Switch for Lamp, No Interference, 15 AMP Heavy Duty, 100' RF Range, Compact Side Plug, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DT9QP8P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ozEDDbJQH2TZ8
What exactly makes up your $100 budget? Because a wireless dimmer switch is likely at least half of that.
Are you saying this bedroom has no light switch at all, and no fixtures?
If you have nothing but receptacles, and none of them are controlled by a switch, and you only have $100 in your pocket - I'd buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495475955&amp;sr=8-2
and two or three floor lamps. They won't dim, but they will provide a nice light.
I am controlling wireless sockets with my pi and a 433 MHz transmitter and it works flawlessly, so might be worth a thought
If you are looking into wiring them to the gpio pins, you have to make sure you find a dedicated relais that is able to switch the voltage and current and can be used with the pi. But please be careful when handling those. Don't just cut the cable and drill and place the wires into the relais. Use something like this to make sure you get a good contact. You are dealing with a lot of power afterall.
Sorry, English is not my first language :D
I bought one of those 3 outlets with a remote at ALDI (but they sell similar ones online, see below). You can set the remote to turn on pairs or all three at a time. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=psdc_6291368011_t3_B0000ERN8H
I'd use one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS
I should have bought the 5 pack not the single. So many uses
Just get one of these they're amazing.
Like an idiot, I wrote everything out below before I fully read your post. I'm not sure if a 50% would be possible with the below set up but it would make the shades 'smart'.
This should help you out. I'm in the process of testing everything out for my basement (working on finishing it now). I already received the Broadlink RM Pro and got it working with some remote control outlets. When I receive the shade motor, I'll let you know if I have any difficulties. Also, this video should help with some difficulties people have with the Broadlink.
Yeah if i did do that I would probably use some wireless outlet relays and just solder the GPIO pins to the remote control board leads. I've seen a few videos where people use relay boards but I don't trust my wiring skills enough to have uncovered wires exposed in a house.
If you have a smartphone, I'd say this will suit your needs depending on if the lights plug into the walls or not? The two links you provided made it somewhat unclear if it was wall switch controlled or overhead fan lighting.. Anyway, relevant info:
In the app (on my iPhone, at least, can't speak to Android but I believe its the same) it allows you to set up "scenes" where one button press can turn on multiple lights/tvs/whatever on/off. You'd basically plug the light into the Buzzi, leave the power to it always "on" and just control the power from your phone through the Buzzi instead.
I also have 2 sets of these they're uglier and less "high-tech" than the Buzzi but you get more outlets [5 instead of 1] for the same price. Only reason I didn't recommend those above the Buzzi is that you want to be able to turn on all 3 with one click (which the Buzzi will do, the ZAP would be on one remote but you'd have to press 3 buttons).. Depends on just exactly how lazy (or fancy) you're trying to be.
Truthfully, the Buzzi is still a beta product and the app can be kind of a PitA at times, but if you're just desperate to be able to network the lights together its a good fit. I personally would only recommend it if you are using it to control a device that needs an IR remote (ie a TV/radio) as that can all be done from in the app (and its pretty well done) - otherwise the nursing home-esque ZAP product is more than sufficient. The range can be a little shoddy, FWIW, but if you're in an apartment you probably wont have issues.
TL;DR:
Buzzi | Etekcity ZAP
---|---
---|---
Pretty/Stylish | Ugly
Only controls 1 device per unit | Controls 5 outlets from 1 remote
Integrated from smartphone/your current home wifi | Has a standalone remote
App can load slowly at startup | Remote is responsive, if a bit short ranged
Can control/replace an IR remote for TVs/radios/etc | Can't do IR, but you don't seem to need that feature anyway
Works over WiFi, no range issues | You live in an apartment, so this may be a moot point
Removed Amazon referral links, mea culpa
These?
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1477964136&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wireless+on%2Foff+socket+adapters
What about RF Plugs with a remote, if you don't need them tied into your board:
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463366357&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=etekcity+outlets&amp;linkCode=sl1&amp;tag=brau01-20&amp;linkId=cacca3487d02a6935ba645567d014e9b
Why would you not want to use cheap Etekcity RF control plugs and then use something like hook?
I've been playing with the BOND for a few days and the BOND app has a section for 'Fireplace (beta)' (and other future device support). I had a few of these RF switches laying around the house from when I first started building my smart home (https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522435481&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=zap+remote)
so I tested it and it actually works! I'm using 2 right now. I have one plugged into a Steam Link and another into a Roku Stick. I teach BOND the on and off commands, and I discover these two devices in the Amazo Alexa app and I can turn these two devices individually on/off using voice. No more reaching behind the tv, or using the individual remote to activate them.
any chance of this working?
http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Wireless-Electrical-Household-Appliances/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453668260&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=remote+control+power+outlets
They come with these.... Also with fairylights
Etekcity Wireless Remote Control Outlet Light Switch for Lights, Lamps, Christmas Decorations, Plug and Go, Up to 100 ft. Range, FCC, ETL Listed, White (Learning Code, 5Rx-2Tx) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQELHBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9nv3DbQFD96HY
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Motivation behind this setup: There are no overhead lights in the living room. So the lights we use are regular floor lamps. The wall outlets are not connected to any wall switches. So we use the etekcity remotes and outlets. It's nice because the remote sits centrally located in the living room on the coffee table.
Here is my setup:
- Etekcity remote controlled outlets, 5pk set, with 2 remotes: amzn link
- I wanted more remotes, so I bought more: amzn link
But you'll notice that the remotes are not paired to the outlets. Yes, the outlets have a "learn" button, but ... You have to think of it like this, the outlet learns the remote's code, not the other way around. So what if your remotes (the transmitters) have different codes? it doesn't work. So the only way to fix that is to make all the remotes transmit the same codes. So that's where you go to this review on amazon and do some soldering "It's about a 5 minute job if you're handy with a soldering iron." If you're not confortable with soldering, this is such an easy job that you could find a friend that does solder and show them the amazon review and have them do it for you.
So now I have 4 remotes (transmitters) controlling 5 outlets. Each transmitter has 5 pairs of on/off buttons and each transmitter operates the same way.
Outlet 1: Living room light 1
Outlet 2: Living room light 2
Outlet 3: Something
Outlet 4: small reading lamp in bedroom
Outlet 5: Main light in bedroom
Transmitter 1: living room coffee table
Transmitter 2: on the wall by the door to the bedroom
Transmitter 3: My side of bed
Transmitter 4: Wife's side of bed.
(Bonus: if I'm in the bedroom in bed and forgot to turn off the living room lights, I can use the same remote to turn off the living room lights)
Then, I paired the RF transmitter/outlets with a "Hook". (This particular smart home device does not appear to be available for sale any more, but it's still working for now. An alternative appears to be the Broadlink or Sonoff). The "hook" connects to the internet and converts internet commands to RF so that my Alexa can communicate with the RF outlets/lights.
So in summary, I have a wife-approved smart home situation. The wife can use the remote or Alexa to turn on or off these 5 lights. Nothing gets messed up if a light is turned on with one method and off with another. The setup doesn't care.
I like to use these to manually turn them on and off. If you have an echo or other smart home stuff there are similar voice coms for that.
If you're comfortable with some python and working with a relay, you can pretty much roll your own with very little trouble. You can do voice control integration on your own, or work with Google assistant or Alexa. Even for 120v, you can intergrate something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1).
I bought [these wireless electrical plugs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQELHBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474653280&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=wireless+plug+outlet&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41sAODwOCCL&amp;ref=plSrch). I have 3 lamps in my living room and I can turn them on and off by pressing a button on the little remote. No more walking over and manually turning each of them on. It's so hard to find that little knob!
Will a Harmony hub work on remote controlled outlets?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DQELHBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491084823&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=etekcity+remote+outlet+switch&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41WGW5kir8L&amp;ref=plSrch
I'll be using a small outlet remote to quickly turn off the Lighthouses.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Ah, gotcha. Yeah if they're all spread out that doesn't really work. They do make wireless remote outlets, though. That might be an option.
These are basically the best budget LEDs I could find and I tested a lot of different brands around that price range. I have 10 strands of these on my setup, essentially one per shelf, tied along the front edge, but hidden from direct view. That casts an even light across the whole shelf, as opposed to if you put them behind one of the TVs, the light was casting more of an aura effect that I didn't quite like.
These are also really great for casting a larger volume of light, say if you want to bounce a color off your back wall behind your monitor. Then put all your lights onto the same power switch and put them on a controller like this one. That's essentially the cheapest way to get a nice effect of whichever color you'd like.
I highly recommend you grab this. You just press a button and the stations turn on and off. I can even use it way across the house. Makes turning them off freaking quick and when you demo to people it looks cool to just (already have PC on) turn on controllers and hand them the headset as you press 2 buttons on the remote to power on the base stations.
I've had them for ~3 years now for my front room which has lava lamps and other light up geeky stuff. When I got Vive on launch, these puppies were ready to help make startup easy.
I had a same problem. I couldn't find a way to fix it. So I ended up buying wireless remote outlets like these.
I turn mine off manually w/ a Wireless Remote Control Electrical Outlet Switch, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQELHBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
From what I've seen, there isn't a hubless option for a 3-way dimmer yet.
Past posts have suggested this option for a 3-way switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Note: It's not a true wired 3-way switch. You are covering one of the switches with a remote that looks identical to the wired wall switch.
For dimming lights, I've got a couple Lutron Caseta dimmers paired with a Wink hub and love them, though they are a bit pricey. No neutral wire required in the switch box.
There's also a couple Caseta on/off switches, but Wink support for them is currently broken.
I prefer putting control at the light switch as opposed to smart bulbs, unless you're looking specifically for color mixing.
Lutron Caséta is supported by Wink. I'm sure there are "gotchas" but Wink compatibility is advertised. I've got one dimmer and one shade that work fine but I only use the Lutron app and HomeKit with the Lutron Caséta Pro hub.
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G?ie=UTF8&amp;*Version*=1&amp;*entries*=0
If you don't need the pedestals for the pico remotes, I think you're better off buying these 2 bundles separate.
Bundle
Extra Switch & Pico
I have this *exact* same problem – they flash on, then off, then back on. From that point forward, they operate just fine without any flickering.
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I have am using Lutron Caseta Wireless Smart Lighting Dimmer Switches and dimmable LEDs.
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Is this the LUT-MLC that you’re referring to? Can someone explain to me exactly how it works in conjunction with the above Smart Lighting Dimmer Switch?
http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0 Same line of thinking but I think Lutron's is better.
What you could do for the three way dimming switch is put in this Lutron Caseta switch on one wall setup just as a regular two way switch, then the Pico remote that comes with the switch can be mounted in a wall switch plate on the other side of the room where the other three way switch is. The Pico remote is wireless and runs on a battery. You would just cap off the wires where the Pico switch is. If you look at that Amazon link there is a wall bracket where you can just mount the Pico switch in a direct replacement for the light switch. Then just pick whatever size/arrangement decora wall plates you need. That would give you a light switch on each side of the room with the same control you have now with the two three way switches.
You will need a Wink hub to control the Lutron lighting with your Echo.
Why not go to Lutron Caseta switches since they don't require a neutral?
this or this should work yea?
Sorry what i mean is does this one work with hue with your method:
https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
Lutron Caseta. They even have a mount bracket where you don't have to cut the wall to add the second switch.
You would need a switch kit and a mounting bracket.
https://www.amazon.com/P-PKG1W-WH-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-PICO-WBX-ADAPT-Pico-Wallplate-Bracket/dp/B00JZRAFEA
I have a couple Lutron Caseta wireless switches. They have a switch you hardwire in place of the existing one, and then you have the option to use a wireless remote. You can mount it on the wall like a normal switch, or it has a pedestal if you want to leave it on a table. If you invest in the Lutron "smart bridge" you can control them with a phone app as well.
edit:
Here's what I have. I like them:
https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-Wireless-600-watt-150-watt-Multi-Location/dp/B00JJY0S4G
I assume that it is, but I can't confirm it. Are you in the US? If so, you'd be better buying either of these, which I can confirm are two wire:
Dimmer and Remote
Dimmer
Both are less expensive than the item on eBay, and the first one comes with a Pico remote. I've bought several of each of Amazon. (Lowes and maybe Home Depot also stock these).
Don't mean to hijack but I see this as relevant, if I purchased this kit which states it's homekit enabled (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XPW6824/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
and this switch which has no mention of homekit (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJY0S4G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3TX4YUK2VIRSQ)
Will the seperate switch work with the hub and all switches would then be homekit compatible? Thanks heaps if you are able to confirm this
This should work for you. I've been meaning to try it since I don't have neutral wires too. The installation guide doesn't seem to mention neutral wires.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJY0S4G/ref=s9_simh_gw_g60_i4_r?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-2&amp;pf_rd_r=0RV352DQJFT97AMFSSQC&amp;pf_rd_t=36701&amp;pf_rd_p=2091268722&amp;pf_rd_i=desktop
No, check this out. Works without ground. I just installed one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JJY0S4G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1502846705&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=lutron+caseta&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41s8w2udgiL&amp;ref=plSrch
Just to double check would these 2 be all I need?
B00JJY0S4G
B00PYMGVVQ
I'm using ones purchased from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00JJY0S4G) or Home Depot (http://goo.gl/eZKEkK). You can control the dimmer from the remote and from the (Wink) hub. Neat setup. Looks like you can get the dimmer module without the remote from Amazon (http://amzn.com/B00KLAXFQA).
I installed a zwave smart switch on my 30 amp circuit. I plan to add a zwave smoke detector turn off the rig in case of fire. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00MBIRF5W&amp;pd_rd_r=C9NJXAC0D8TPSNBJ7A4C&amp;pd_rd_w=DnHz5&amp;pd_rd_wg=FBG47&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=C9NJXAC0D8TPSNBJ7A4C
>https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W/
Have the 2nd one and worked great to control with a high voltage AC wall unit.
https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ but not sure if it's best for this application
You want this: Aeotec Heavy Duty Smart Switch, Z-Wave Plus Home Security ON/OFF controller, 40 amps record electricity consumption https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AgVADbSZ5ATQG
Then get a 240v 2 phase plug and a socket. Wire the smart switch up to the two. So you have plug - switch - socket.
Then you plug your air compressor to this new thing you just made and the new thing to the wall.
You will need a hub to control it.
Bonus you also get current and electricity usage for free :)
Amazon just recommended this to me: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Security-controller-electricity-consumption/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523717827&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=aeotec+heavy+duty+smart+switch&amp;dpID=41F5PI7mPCL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
You'de have to cut the cable and put it inline, but it's designed for high amperage and high voltage.
Yeah there's a few of them out there. This one is zwave plus:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBIRF5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L2BizbK40W8TB
You can put an Aeon Labs ZW078-A https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-White-V3-26-AL001/dp/B00MBIRF5W
I use one of these on my Electric car charger and it works perfectly. Added bonus is it meters the power so you can report on how much heating the driveway is costing you
hi dave, welcome back to the family! :) i'm glad to hear things are looking up for you!! what are some of your favorite bands?
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i have a super kick ass smart plugon my main WL that i want so i can turn my himalayan salt lamp on and off lol!
What hub are you referring to ? This is the outlet you have, right: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?s=lamps-light&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512027735&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=TP-Link+hs100
It says no hub required. If you have Google Home, you should just be bale to pair the outlet with Google Home and turn it off and on by voice.
I have these TP-Link smart plug
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Anywhere-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511208971&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=tp-link+smart+plug
They work an absolute treat with Google Assistant.
I started by picking up a few of these and connecting them to my Amazon Echo: https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Controls-Electronics-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467748762&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tplink+smart+plug
Super easy to set up and you can ask Alexa to "turn on the TV" or "turn off the lamp". You can also group things together and say "Alexa, turn everything off" which is pretty neat for when you're going to bed. You can use your existing bulbs and it's cheaper (well save for the Echo) then jumping into a Hue starter kit, for example. That said, I do plan to pickup an EcoBee and Hue kit soon now that I have the itch to automate all the things!
There's also smart outlets like this one that give you better control on when you have the device on or off.
TP-LINK Wi-Fi Smart Plug, Works with Amazon Alexa, Controls Your Electronics From Anywhere (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aHeCxbWVES1RT
Maybe I am not understanding what you are asking, but why wouldn't you just use this plug, which is the same cost, and works with the echo directly?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Smart-Wi-Fi-Works-Alexa/dp/B0178IC734/ref=pd_sim_60_9?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BH0RJAVZ1JXGDXYDG8WZ
Here you go! Turn ANY Iron into a "smart" iron with this one weird trick! :D
A little late to the party but you could always look into smart plugs that way you can connect them to your wifi and just turn them off and on with your phone or if you have Amazon Alexa or Google Home you can configure them to work with voice activation.
Get a electric timer like TP-Link Smart Plug (hs100) and setup a schedule to turn on and off automatically. Also, you can remotely turn on/off any device connected to it.
If you have Amazon Echo or Google Assistant, you can use voice commends to turn on/off as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.kOczb5S6405V
Thanks OP. Burnout for the PS2 and PSP have always been my favorite racing game. It just felt much more fun and chaotic. I would love to play a reboot of that series. As for the giveaway, I would like rocket league, but if money is short, then this smart plug for my desk lamp will do. It's so annoying having to reach for the plug. If money is even shorter then you can skip me, thank you. :)
Hello,
Profitability is always changing when mining. You can use Whattomine.com to check out profitable for specific hardware and electricity rates.
Also if you are planning to mine for a long time I recommend getting a smart plug to help track you kw/h usage more accurately. (Kasa Smart Wi-Fi Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lzHUBbX0FXV2P)
Some people who live where electricity is expensive find alternative solutions as well. We see many users try to find places where electricity is included with rent. Rural miners using solar panels, or building small hydro electric generators in streams, etc.
You may also find newer hardware is more efficient and uses less electricity. A 960 is powerful but not very efficient.
Lastly there are other reasons to mine besides profitability. If you are at break even costs you are still stacking BTC while providing a service to the networks' of the coins you are mining. Mining not only creates coins as a reward, but verifies transactions and increases the security of the entire network.
Keep a close eye on the profitability.
Thanks #GetThatHoney
Thanks. A y idea what the difference is between this one:
TP-Link Smart Plug Mini (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Occupies Only One Socket, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS105) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01K1JVZOE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ArH8BbBSSHS63
And this one:
TP-Link Smart Plug (1-Pack) -- No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS100) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4rH8BbM5AM3S2
Connect the cameras to something like Wemo or Tnlink.. I bought this one below with excellent ratings.. better than Wemo...
TP-Link HS100 Kasa WiFi Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A10.BbRE7P6C2
You can use the app to turn off and on the Ring.. I'm using it on a nest outdoor IQ..
Okay since there definitely seems to be some interested in the details of the set up i figured i'd go more into detail,forgive the poor quality photos please.
So first of here are the links to everything I'm using right now:
Polyscience Immersion Circulator
Cheap cooler
Smart Wall Plugs
Temperature Data Logger
So a couple note on these things. The only reason I'm still using the Polyscience is i paid way too much for it back when there weren't many other option and it still works. I'd like to get an Anova eventually. The whole reason for this project was I was trying to see if i could do what the Mellow Sous Vide has promised but not delivered on after waiting forever on my preorder.
This was just a test run and if I decide to cancel my preorder I'd most likely go with This cooler as it seems a lot nicer and still has the side cooler.
To answer in some more detail why I don't go with just an ice bath is honestly, I want to take all the food safety guess work out of this, and to me just hoping that you put enough ice in and that it will last long enough on that given day just doesn't work for me.
Here is a link to some photos of the set up as well as the app i use and a temp chart recorded with the data logger, that i'm using to figure out the time needed to get the cooler to food safe ranges.
I know this is a lengthy post but i hope it helps
Since other people aren't answering your question, the TP-Link seems to keep its last state.
1- No. It won't work like you hope it will.
2- No. You will not like the sound of the tap.
3- A smart switch like the TP-Link HS100 will work. https://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480349984&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=tp-link+switch
4- Not sure.
I have a lot of different Smart outlets being used around the home. It really depends on what your use is going to be.
For a cheap outlet where space is not an issues, these from KMC have worked well for me. They are pretty dependable even in areas with weak WiFi signal and the energy monitoring is nice for things like air filters or fans.
KMC also makes a nice multi outlet plug. I personally use this to control the multiple led light strips at my garage workbench.
For anything 15A, I would say TP-Link is the way to go. These have been great for me, but the newer HS105 does have a better form factor. I have used these for my garage fridge, windows AC unit, and tools at my workbench. There is an energy monitoring variant as well, the HS110
You may see that there are a ton of the cheap round shaped smart plugs on Amazon and other sites. I have found all of these to be almost exactly the same, no matter what company they come from. They work well enough for simple devices like lamps, but they have tended to have issues in anywhere, but perfect WiFi signal areas.
Let me know if you have any questions on this or any other devices. After a few years of upgrades, I am at over 110 smart devices, so I can tell you what not to get...
For $16 you can get a tamper proof one that u control wirelessly like this one. I wouldn't get the cheaper ones as they arent very reliable, TP-Link is very reliable though.
I used the same relay as /u/upnorth77 https://www.amazon.com/Enclosed-AC-Protection-Bounce-Terminals/dp/B017743I7S/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503427639&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=dry+contact+relay+120v and a TP Link smart switch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 . Pretty simple to hook up if you have a switch that turns your gas fireplace on/off.
I own this to control all my lamps. It works great, but I see amazon is starting to pump out their own as well if you want a cheaper option.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Heavy-duty-certified-Assistant-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?s=digital-skills&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520459871&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=wifi+outlet
As for the garage, I think that's something you'll have to control, like others recommended, with a raspberry pi.
Yeah, I bought https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Control-Devices-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481685194&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=tp+link+alexa&amp;psc=1 this with it. I just connected my printer and managed to make it function. Thank you!
I have this one but it's out of stock currently. TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Amazon Alexa (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1xwvybC7FKRG5
I appreciate the comment. What I think triggered the motion capture was the light directly below the camera. It is attached to a Smart Plug. You can hear it click on it in the actual video. I am the only one with control over it and I didn't turn it on. The light wasn't on when I went to check the live feed 20min later.
You'll need one of these or a smart plug so you can power down your rig remotely.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-PC-Watchdog-Computer-Reboot-Board-/132231222514?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275
This is just an example there are a bunch of different brands.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501567527&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=smart+plug
You need to find one that matches your machines electrical needs as mentioned above me.
I use the TP-Link Kasa Smart plug (larger variety) that supports 15A - good enough for my Silvia.
Kasa Smart WiFi Plug by TP-Link - Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa and Google (HS100), white, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apii.6l2DbE5MFNAD
I'm doing this myself. There is a range of TP-Link wifi power plugs and other devices (I'm using this one) where their communication protocol got cracked and allowed a small ecosystem of python libraries to spring up.
Of course they push you towards their app during setup, but if you're handy with coding you can control the devices programmatically and 100% locally.
I've been using Kasa Smart Plugs for various things around the house. I've yet to have an issue with them. I can't comment on any of their other products as I've only purchased this particular model. I have never had to unplug and plug it back in.
So far i think i'm going to order the TP-Link hs100.
It's not exactly API friendly, but the commands it accepts have been captured and are not that complicated - just fire a TCP request with a small pre-set payload and it should be good to go.
As long as TP-Link doesn't change the API this should be fine for most needs:
Example script: https://github.com/ggeorgovassilis/linuxscripts/blob/master/tp-link-hs100-smartplug/hs100.sh
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-Plug-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525820345&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=smartplug
The fan connected to this Smart Plug. There is an app for the Plug that makes it very easy to program. In my mind, much better than a mechanical timer, especially when you are trying different configurations.
The fan works great, however there is one consideration. The plug at the end of the cord is about an inch wide and will not fit through the drain hole. You have 3 options, choose whatever one best matches your skillset.
so you just want to turn off the printer remotely?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
the phone app for this will let you turn off things remotely so long it is connected to wifi
I use it to turn on and off a pc that is at home , while im at work.
This is what I ordered - though I'm not married to it, so I can certainly change to something else.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/
I chose it because I'm a fan of the TPlink products and have recently upgraded my router to TPLink and have several TPLink powerline adapters and wifi extenders and really like them.
I was looking at the tags and wasn't sure if I needed the hub or now. The other main concern I have is that they appear to have a shelf life of about a year. I would hate invest in the hub then run the risk of not being able to get more tags in the future as the batteries die. Though overall, the tags do seem pretty cool.
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I have two smart plugs in my house and they're great! Looking to get more of the same, or if there are similar ones I'm open to them as well.
TP-Link HS100 Kasa WiFi Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa Echo & Google Assistant
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use these and they are excellent.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077RVKYR6/ref=crt_ewc_img_oth_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3NG14OPL35XMM
I coupled them with these to plug into existing sockets.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DN6QX2/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I control all of mine with the switch on the wall, if I wanted to control them individually you could put these (or similar) on each set to individually control them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you use a tp link smart plug that was on sale today? Or is it just limited to the wemo?
A smart plug is something that allows you to remotely turn a device off.
In my case it can plug /unplug the Chromecast from my phone so that the monitor goes into standby without having to get up...
Here's my smartplug https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522216294&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=tplink+smart+plug
Some monitors can have issues with Chromecast so I'd check that your monitor works with a bluray beforehand (literally the same protection).
You can just test it with a ps3/ps4 or a bluray player. I'm sure you know someone that can help you out offline (there's conflicting information about which monitors work and which don't online)
I bought a tp-link hs100 and set up the plug in for it in octoprint. It let's you control power from the interface and you can enable gcode commands to put in your end code that shut off power when the print finishes.
I bought a couple of these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0178IC734/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1526989176&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Tp+link+smart+plug&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41TF9BqJTuL&amp;ref=plSrch
I know its the same cost of a camera essentially, but I got these for my indoor cameras. They work great and also work well with IFTTT.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0178IC734/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have these for my wall switches. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483896100&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=tp+link+smart+light+switch They work great, easy to set up, but no dimmer. I replaced the wemo ones since I didnt have much luck with them working and setting them up was a pita.
I use Kasa switches and love them. Just make sure you have a neutral wire available on your box.
Kasa Smart Light Switch by TP-Link - Needs Neutral Wire, WiFi Light Switch, Works with Alexa & Google (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_IaOpDbAW7H425
So the plus just gets you Zigbee control. I have an Echo Plus, but all my smart home devices are wifi, and not Zigbee (except a few hue lights, but I already have the hub for that).
So I'm controlling:
All over wifi.
You'd need the echo plus to control:
This light switch without a hub, but you wouldn't need it for this other switch.
I did some googling, and it looks like no Apple TVs do Zigbee. So the normal echo should be able to do everything it can currently do. The plus just opens the option to directly control Zigbee devices.
edit: as /u/RichardBLine correctly pointed out, Echo Plus supports Zigbee and not Z-wave. I've updated the post and links. Thanks!
Thank you so much for your reply! I'm potentially installing totally new light switches and I thought I read somewhere that the Phillips Hue switches aren't hardwired or something like that. Any idea what the ideal "hard-wired" light switch would be? Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Requires-Assistant-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1512064629&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=smart+light+switch
I don't actually know anything about electric wiring so I'm not 100% sure what hard wired means.
That one doesn't look bad, but there are several reviews on it that state that it has connectivity issues. Another person suggested this one, what do you think?
Just did this recently with my outdoor lights. I installed this:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Wi-Fi-Light-Switch-TP-Link/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537972541&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=kasa+smart+switch
It is awesome, i can turn on/ff the lights with the switch or use the app. The app works wonderfully, no delays.
I use the TP-Link Smart switch. It can be controlled and is programmable (that is, schedules can be set) through its own app — Kasa. It does NOT need a hub. I control both my Hue and TP-Link devices through Alexa voice commands. So, I don't mind having two ecosystems.
Here's a couple amazon links:
Leviton Wifi switch:
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-DW15S-1BZ-Universal-Incandescent-Required/dp/B01MU9SH77
TP-Link Wifi switch:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU
I’ve recently installed these.
TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch, No Hub Required, Single Pole, Requires Neutral Wire, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS200) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZV35QU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
TP-Link Smart Wi-Fi Light Switch for 3-Way Lighting, No Hub Required, Works with Alexa and Google Assistant (HS210 KIT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07724HNTX?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Incredibly easy to install, work with Echo and don’t require a hub. If you intend to get heavy into home automation, you’ll need a hub eventually.
Is there a reason I couldn't just install a TP Link wireless switch in place of my gas fireplace switch?
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Fixtures-Anywhere-HS200/dp/B01EZV35QU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481905178&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=TP+link+light+switch
This is what I was thinking of doing.
Edit: added clairification
Wireless Lightbulbs, Wireless outlets, , Wireless Light Switch with alexa, Wifi Coffee Pot
At 1:07 They show an apartment with shades and curtains controlled by it. MF, if you can afford that apartment, you can pony up the $$ to have that thing wired directly into a wireless system already.
> Affordable: Add IoT (Internet of Things) to any device for $19.
Most things it works on can be replaced for a similar price.
>Long battery life: Powered by a replaceable lithium battery with about 600 days of use.
Wired directly, no battery to worry about.
Just to verify, is it this one? Do you happen to know if there's a version with a dimmer?
price history
Yeah that's what I am getting at, however with this with 3 side by side, wouldn't it look really silly and bulky since each switch has it's own frame around it?
Thanks.
I followed this guide:
https://www.hackster.io/saka/alexa-fireplace-on-7dafd3
used this relay:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XBGH96I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;sa-no-redirect=1
and this switch:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZV35QU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
That first amazon may be a referral link back to the hackster poster, i had it bookmarked.
for instance this one, for $12. Which I think I will buy because mine has had a LOT of use. https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Volt-Diode/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483578233&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=multimeter&amp;psc=1
I already have a DMM
You need a volt meter to test it. Pop your caps and check the fluid level. It should be above the lead core. Top them off with "distilled water" if needed. The battery is only 16 months old, should be under warranty. https://www.amazon.com.au/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=multimeter&qid=1563499391&s=gateway&sr=8-1
My 92 e350 diesel struggled to start in the cold last weekend, and I thought it was the battery. I probed it and it was fully charged. So I just put it in 2nd gear and let it roll out of the driveway. The movement of the engine allowed it to turn over and I guess warmed it up, and then it started just fine.
So it may not be the battery, it may just be the cold. Diesels have a much harder time starting in the cold than gasoline engines. So, I'd recommend getting a voltmeter. When its not starting, check the voltage. If the voltage is 12.8, then its fully charged. If its down to 11.2, then its empty. I am not sure what voltage is required to start, probably around 12, maybe a little less.
This cheap one on amazon should do the trick: https://smile.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518214456&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=voltmeter&amp;dpID=51BVqQYiV1L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
If it is the battery, likely there is a power drain somewhere. Those can be very hard to track down, so the best option in that case is to disconnect the batteries. There are battery disconnect switches you can put in the engine compartment. Those are also super useful to not get your rig stolen, as you can make it hard to find / not obvious.
Or maybe its the battery. Look for a battery mechanic in your area. Often they will test your current battery for free, and my experience has been that they don't try to scam you.