Best electrical outlet boxes according to redditors
We found 133 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical outlet boxes. We ranked the 80 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 133 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical outlet boxes. We ranked the 80 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Nice clean little setup you have there. Good job. My inner electrian is getting bothered by your receptical though. They make box extensions so that your receptical can be flush with the faceplate and look finished also safer. Not that you will probably ever accidentally stick a screwdriver or something metallic in that way but... again.... My inner electrian had to say something.
Like this, there are a lot of different options though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H5ZVY8/ref=psdcmw_6369374011_t2_B00J7I2446
Edit: just realized that that receptical is cracked too! Put A GFI and an extension on and you'll be good to go ;)
Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.
With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.
You don't necessarily need a box, but it's definitely worth terminating to a proper keystone jack and wallplate. Wallplates come in 2, 4, and 6 port versions, so you can get all your runs coming out a single-gang plate. Having wires just sticking out of your wall is definitely ugly, and may or may not violate your local code.
Instead of actual boxes, you can use old-work low voltage brackets like this to mount your wallplates. I actually prefer these, since they give you lots of in-wall access if you ever need to fish another cable through. I've been using the new-work version as I've been renovating my house and pulling ethernet to each room while I have the sheetrock down.
What is above/below you? Attic? Unfinished basement?
If it is an attic, you can drop a line down into the wall and do it professionally. Just need fish tape, a couple gang boxes, some keystone jacks, and wall plates. All can be had for <$50
Unfinished basement, same thing, drill down, fish down (easier because gravity) and look for where the cat5 comes out in the basement, if possible use any existing conduits for previously ran LV wiring. Then go to modem location, fish down with your fish wire, and find it in the basement. Tie down your cat5 and fish it through. Ezpz
Also, avoid powerline adapters. Those things are hot garbage, and should only be used when all other options have been exhausted. As a tech, I have seen so many repair tickets for those peices of garbage alone. Run cat5, buy a wifi dongle & router that supports dual band, but do not use powerline again.
toolless keystone jack 2-pk
keystone wallplate 5-pk
cat5
LV gang box
Either the electrician fucked up installing boxes (before drywall install) or the builder used thicker drywall than the electrician assumed. The boxes should be flush with the drywall. If the boxes are close to flush (e.g. maybe 1/8" or less) I wouldn't worry about it. But if not, the fix is easy: get some of these.
Doesn't need to replace the box. They make box extensions like this and this and handy box extensions.
He might be able to remove the existing box and install an old work box behind, and facing the other direction, from where the original box is. Other side of the wall. Although, abandoning the original box location may be a code violation by removing a required outlet location.
To expand on the recommendations to just add the propper wall plates so they blend in and look correct which is also what I would do for these.
THis is what the wall plates will look like there are other options, but this should give you an idea
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Premium-Connector-Banana-Plate/dp/B00GWOMMA4/
low voltage brackets look like this, you can get away with the plates screwed right into the wall but these are the "propper way"
https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/
There is most likely a bunch all coming out where the receiver was. They have larger plates that will fit that depending on how many speakers they had setup.
If you're a prime member you can likely get it quicker through Amazon.
Well, that'd be the cover plate, yes. But I meant something like this mounted in the ceiling. Then terminate the cable and mount the plate directly to the box as if it were the cover.
When you take down the AP, just cover the box with a blank and now the new home owner can reuse it if they want.
You can use brush plates to pass the cable directly through the wall, without the extra jacks. Use a low voltage box to mount them to the wall.
Maybe get a locking cover? something like this
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https://www.amazon.com/Sealproof-Weatherproof-Electrical-Receptacle-Protector/dp/B0756LZW8Q/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2PPYHGVADRH5X&keywords=outdoor+locking+outlet+cover&qid=1572191400&sprefix=outdoor+locking+%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-13
Typically you don't run low-voltage lines in the same box as high-voltage lines. It's easy enough to just use something like this ( http://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=pd_sim_e_1?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=09GZVBHWHJ37VB90SY9Y ) to mount your HDMI wall plate to.
I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?
You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.
Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.
Rather than trying to fit your switches into your electrical box, why not make the electrical box fit your smart switches by using an electrical box extender?
iMBAPrice BE2-2 (2-Gang) Electrical Power Outlet Box Extender - White, 2-Pack (Made in USA) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B079J6HZD7
Very easy. You can either fish Romex up and over or cut/patch drywall and come up from below. Most modern outlets have secondary connections that will allow you to easily split the power off. Or if you want to just move it in general you can wire nut the leads together according to color code and throw a blank plate on the existing box.
You will need a “cut in” style junction box for the new outlet.
https://www.amazon.com/Carlon-B114R-UPC-Lamson-Products-Number-1G/dp/B017Y54F36
I would expect to pay an electrician $60-$100 depending on where you are and how much work it takes to get the line in.
You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.
If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.
If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.
It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...
I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.
Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.
EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...
Nice! I just installed two sconces on my back deck. The blocks in the link below was definitely a better experience that they way I did the ones off my garage last year and the way I had to trim out.
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Was pleased with the quality,
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQODND4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069KVZZ4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Also my doorbell no longer worked and installed this wireless one in about 15 minutes (2 locations) and has worked great so far. Can even bring the noise maker with you if you have a large house.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4FVZU6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
And don't forget these things: https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478199723&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=old+work+low+voltage+box
> Agreed on the wiring part, its my plaster skills cleaning up after that suck :)
Use these which can be found at most hardware stores. Run the wires, and then use those to attach the faceplate. That means you are only cutting the hole big enough to mount that, and then tighten it down. Little to no repair work after if you are careful. Its how I wired my entire house, plaster walls and all. Cutting/drilling through the plaster/lathe walls was a bitch and a half, but it still turned out good.
Or Carlon Superblue BH234R Outlet Box, Old Work, 2 Gang paired with a divider plate.
I'd suggest keeping the face plates and keystones the same brand. I used 2 different brands and they didn't fit just right, granted the keystone idea is pretty standardized, it still wasn't perfect... The other part you'll want to grab is something to help hold the outlet on the wall: https://smile.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI
When it comes to pulling the cable, if you want to do the cables the way a pro would, look at buying a spool or CAT6 in the walls: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8103 and terminate it with a real CAT6 punch down jack: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=5384. Then use the cables you linked to go from the wall to router/computer/device. Watch some YouTube videos and take your time and you shouldn't have a hard time terminating the cables. With network cables there is solid and stranded, solid is for cable that isn't going to move (like in the walls). While stranded is for the areas that need to be more flexible, like near a computer where it might be moved occasionally.
Like everyone else, 2 wires is a good call.
For the "cabinet" try to go more open, like a small shelf you can sit stuff on, especially when you are concerned about heat and/or air flow, why not just open it up?
All you have to do is turn it upside down. /s
Personally, I'd just change the socket to a local standard socket and deal with the adapters. If nothing else, they take up space and make the lamp stick out/up more.
But as-is, the wiring is going to be rated for (at least) 300 volts, and the socket is (usually) rated to 600 volts, so that won't be a problem.
The only catch is that the sconce is designed to be installed on a round enclosure with 2 screws, spaced 2-3/4" or 3-1/2" apart, on the midline of the fixture where it attaches to the wall. I have no idea what enclosures are used in Aus, so you'll have to work that out.
Incidentally, the enclosure I linked is designed for new construction (called a "new work box"), where the walls aren't yet enclosed in gypsym board. Assuming you're not up for ripping your walls out, you'd use an old work box, which is designed to be pushed into a round hole in existing gypsum board..
Something like this
iMBAPrice LV1-2PK Single Gang (1-Gang) Low Voltage Mounting Bracket - Black (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V3tACbY7ZW1JN
https://youtu.be/yqyixwqiCag
Just ordered this plus a GFCI outlet from Amazon - even sold by them!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GW3VSQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XP41xbQ5XB82F
You can go through the ceiling of a basement (finished, drop ceiling) or along the top of a basement (unfinished) or along the bottom of an attic. I also have a wire snake to pull them through the walls to go up and down. So you cut a hole for the plate, then either drop the cable snake down the wall from the attic to the hole or from the basement to the hole and tape the end of the cable on and pull it through. Then pull it to wherever your [punchdown panel]/[switch]/[router] is and either make an end and plug it in or punch it in to your punchdown panel. On the other end you punch down the jack and screw it in and you're set.
Supplies:
Cat5e or Cat6 cable
Keystone Jack
Wallplate
Low Voltage electric box
RJ45 Ends
If you are interested, I can write a more detailed guide and a tools/optional supplies list later.
I would likely use either 2x4 or 2x6 instead of 2x10.
Some Links
This. It has an adapter for the round box, plus a plastic box to cover the outlet.
It really depends on what you would use them for. If you have any idea what types of devices/applications you would use them for, just try to look it up and see what type of romex is needed for it.
As for the box, again it will depend on what the plan is. You can always put the box there, and then put a blank wall plate over it so that it is there and accessible, but if you do not know for sure you will ever use it, you could just wait until you decide you DO want to put something there to make the hole in the wall. It's all personal preference. It won't cost much to get a box, cut a hole, and get a wall plate to cover it up, so I personally would do that just in case, but again it's all up to you.
If you did decide to install the box, I would recommend getting a deeper one like this so that you won't have any trouble installing any device you may decide to put in there.
If you do install the box now and aren't going to be using the wiring inside right away, make sure to cover the live wires with wire nuts to prevent any electrical fires.
Put it wherever you're going to put your devices. For low voltage hole you would cut a hole the size of a regular single gang outlet. You would need these Low Voltage Mounting Bracket
Then the faceplates screw to that.
EDIT- I have one of these to trace and make sure it's level.
You can, but it's always better to mount to a stud if location allows. In that case, a smart box is the way to go. They're way better than the typical old work box.
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https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB1G4PK-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVQK/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1FYLHOIEE1AUD&keywords=smart%2Bbox%2B2%2Bgang%2Belectrical%2Bbox&qid=1563409695&s=gateway&sprefix=smart%2Bbox%2B2%2Bgan%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-7&th=1
Fishing is a pain in the ass, and a skill just like everything else. No harm in letting a pro do it.
If you use something like this https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-LV1-2PK-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+wall+box&amp;qid=1564496246&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 (once again, just an example. Single gang low voltage if what you are looking for) then use a drywall saw to make a hole that this thing fits into, it gives it a nice professional finish and the plate goes on there nicely.
Just be sure you aren't destroying the entire network of phone lines in the entire home. Many homes did not have home run installs of phone lines (where all boxes have a dedicated line running to a central distribution block). Instead, they were daisy chained or linked (where a single line comes from phone service and then linked box to box or split and then various runs split from there). This means if you cut the line you kill it for the entire house. While most people under 40 may no longer have land line service, others may still want in the future or you may decide to use those lines for alternate uses.
I would suggest putting in an old work box or even just a [simple low voltage bracket] (https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/), just buy locally as they will be about a buck at home improvement stores. Then wire it on the inside or just leave it, but put a blank plate over it. You could also pull it up or down the wall to place in a different vertical location pretty easily.
If you are cutting right beside the stud Madison Electric makes old work boxes that screw into the studs, they are way better than old work boxes with the tabs for the drywall in my opinion as I've been re-wiring and even the ones behind my TVs are all the Madison ones.
18. CU 1gang https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB1G-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVQK
22.5 CU 1 Gang https://www.amazon.com/Madison-Electric-Products-MSB22-Adjustable/dp/B00H8NUVM4
If it's directly the other side of the wall, you don't even need to do any wiring as long as you don't mind loosing the existing phone jack. Put in an old work low voltage box like /u/alias_enki said, but you don't need a full box for low voltage.
Loose the existing wall plate/jack from the wall, but leave the wiring in tact, and just push it through the wall out of the new opening. Mount it and put a blank cover on the old place and you're good to go.
Couple questions though; is it a DSL modem with a built in access point that you are trying to move? If not, then I assume you mean ethernet, not phone line.
If that's the case, I highly recommend getting a router and running ethernet to any desktop computer, game system, media player, or smart TV you have. You can buy a box (500 ft.) of Cat5e for around $50 plus a crimper and ends and do all the cabling yourself. It's really easy to do and there's plenty of guides on crimping ends onto ethernet.
I wouldn't mess around with adhesive tapes or velcro. If there is no where else to mount the cameras, I recommend anchoring the cameras to the wall through the siding, and sealing the base with silicone caulk. Use a siding mounting bracket like this.
Incorrect. I have one built into my kitchen island. They're made by a company called Legrand
2nd vote, for chipping up the entire tile floor then. If its ALL damaged and worn, just rip it up and replace it. If the holes in the existing concrete are near the tiled area, just run the tile into the next room and cover it all at once. If the holes are under where tiles are broken now, then just fill it in with mortar as you redo your tiles. Small gaps won't be a problem.
I totally should have thought about running new drywall over the existing wall. That's a MUCH easier option. And if I recall correctly, they make little electrical box extenders for this type of situation.
http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-Pvc-Electrical-Extender-b1ext-crd/dp/B000H5ZVY8
We currently have coax (internet) coming through a hole in the floor, but it would look cleaner if this were in a low voltage wall box. I know that you cannot combine it with a regular 2 gang box, but you can use the split high/low voltage boxes like these: link. I have a slight preference to have the double box over a seperate box on the next stud over, but its not too big a deal either way. Are there any good reasons to go one way or another? What would be your preferred way?
Ok, here's your update. The box came out very easily. Unfortunately what I didn't notice when putting in the old work box is that the retaining clip was going up against some weak drywall where the previous owner had screwed a drywall screw through at a downward angle from the original outlet to try and keep the outlet from popping out (idiot) so the old work box will not stay in the wall.
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I am now waiting for these from amazon and I'll put one in and then repair the drywall: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D2O1770/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
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I have some pictures, but i don't know how to post them within a thread.
From someone who recently wired their house with Cat6A and ran a 25ft fiber drop...
I would use some LC keystones in a standard keystone plate for the walls. Run some ENT conduit for the actual lines wherever it needs to go and terminate it behind an old work low-voltage box. Drop your fiber through using fish tape, connect it up, and you're done. If this is just from one side of the wall to the other, you can skip the conduit.
Be sure to follow local, state and federal code. You'll need special plenum rated cable if this goes through any air returns or other "air handling space" and isn't inside metal conduit.
Personally, I'd actually advise against putting servers in a garage, unless yours is uncharacteristically clean.
Edit: added some links and additional clarity.
Here is the mobile version of your link
We've always used junction boxes with dividers.
Lots of good comments. I'd recommend a couple low voltage boxes to secure the boxes you bought to the wall. Make sure you get old work boxes.
If you already need to call an electrician to run an outlet, just ask them to make another hole for your A/V cables. If you are lucky they might do it for free. Will the cables just need to go from behind the unit down to the shelf that will hold the Apple TV?
I would ask the electrician to cut some extra holes for you, and you could tidy them up with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/DataComm-45-0001-WH-1-Gang-Recessed-Voltage/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474998124&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=1-Gang+Recessed+Low+Voltage+Cable+Plate
You would mount them to something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice%C2%AE-Single-Voltage-Mounting-Bracket/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1474998033&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=1+gang+mounting+bracket
I just got done mounting and installing a bunch of TVs and A/V cables for some of our branch offices, and that is pretty much what we did. The passthrough will easily allow the large tips of the cables through.
Of course you could also use a drywall saw and a cable fisher and do it yourself. If in doubt, call an electrician. Good luck!
Allied has a line of fiberglass boxes that require support on both sides. Here is an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DMRZDQJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_1krpDbPR1VPMR
Really great project. Great photos. Great commentary. Really good work. Looks great. What an incredible difference from the before photos.
For anyone else reading, I used pop-up floor outlets on my last island, worked great.
https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-661501-S-Stainless-125VTamper-Weather-Receptacle/dp/B07R3FLKCP/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=floor%2Boutlet&qid=1563560994&s=gateway&sr=8-29&th=1
if they are low voltage would i need this?
I struggled and struggled with these small metal boxes in my house built in 1972 until I was shown the solution...
If you get a get a hacksaw you can cut the nail(s) holding the box to the wall stud and remove the box. Replace it with a new box from your local home center. A couple minutes sawing the nail, then a few minutes pulling the wires into the new box, then a minute screwing the new box to the wall.
Bonus tip... if you find your outlets and switches aren't sitting flush with the faceplate, these things are excellent!
Arlington BE1-5 Electrical Outlet Box Extender, 1-Gang, White, 5-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00303FYHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_TKP5wb5QTX7CB
I'm confused, because if there was a ceiling fan there before, the box should already be in the ceiling? Did someone remove the fan and the box?
This is what you'd normally use for a fan: http://www.amazon.com/Westinghouse-Lighting-0110000-Saf-T-Brace-Ceiling/dp/B00027EWNW
If you just want a box to mount there, you can use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Carlon-BH234R-Outlet-8-Inch-Length/dp/B0007N738M/
(Note: there are much cheaper versions of the second one available from hardware stores)
[Round remodel box] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LPTDNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4Z8ADbQRZ65XV)
This is the proper way to fix the issue
Is this what you're referring to? If so, do you know if it is up to national electric code? If so, I could kiss you for saving me the trouble of patching the Sheetrock.
I have both my servers. An r810 and a r320 vertically mounted on their own vertical wall mount racks. Just make sure you hit the studs and you'll have no problems. If it's in the budget and you have space in your patch panel, think about installing at least five Ethernet drops just below or just beside the server. Makes for nice cable management. Shouldn't cost too much. I get most of my gear off Amazon in that regard.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Mount-Patch-Panel-Bracket/dp/B001YHYVEY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wall+mount+vertical+server+rack&amp;qid=1570787721&amp;sprefix=wall+mounted+vertical+ser&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Listed-10-Pack-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=keystone+jack&amp;qid=1570787805&amp;sprefix=keyst&amp;sr=8-13
https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Betts-SC100RR-Carlon-Voltage/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=low+voltage+box&amp;qid=1570787902&amp;sprefix=low+voltage&amp;sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-Keystone-Plate-6-Port-White/dp/B072BC45GZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=keystone+wall+plate&amp;qid=1570787950&amp;sprefix=keystone&amp;sr=8-12
https://www.amazon.com/Choseal-Ethernet-ethernet-Computer-Shielded/dp/B07QC4XM2P/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft+shielded&amp;qid=1570788039&amp;sprefix=cat7+ethernet+cable+500ft&amp;sr=8-5#
I found and bought my cat7 cable from another location. Came on a spool. And was riser cable, meaning it had a braided shield around the foil shield like you see in coax cable. Good luck
It's just a hook for hanging clocks etc..
TOPGREENER Recessed Single Receptacle Outlet with Clock Hanger Hook, Tamper-Resistant, Size 1-Gang 4.48" x 2.76", 15A 125V, TG115R31-6PCS, White (6 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF7XH84/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_G7a0DbVG5SDWW
I'd go with conduit along the baseboard then. Or, if you remove enough drywall, you could just run your wiring through the walls, even string some heavier wire to your breaker box for a new 20A circuit or two.
Most outlets put in when the house was built are in breakout boxes nailed to a stud, really solid, like THIS. You talk about drywall behind the outlet? It sounds like something hinky might be going on in your place. The outlet should be in a box and it screws into threaded holes in the box, it's just the box that needs to be mounted solid.
You can do new boxes easy enough with a ROTARY CUTTER or rotary drywall blade on a dremel tool, and old construction single gang boxes (or double- triple- etc, depending on how many outlets you want). you cut your rectangle and the box has lips that keep it outside the wall, then you turn the screws to lift those tabs up and they pull in against the back to hold it.
Also: if your drywall is that soft and damaged along the bottom edge, it may have been exposed to water and never dried right.
All in all, I'd tear out some drywall, inspect everything, run the wiring you want, new drywall, and paint. None of it's too complex, though you may want an electrician to connect any new wires to your breaker box and double check your work, just in case.
3 options
Multi-tool
http://m.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multi-tool-62279.html
RCA
http://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/2680?maincategoryid=102&amp;categoryid=10236&amp;subcategoryid=1023603&amp;cpncd=
Single Gang Low Voltage Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W09PQI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_JgYMwb3PFJAP8
Don't use drywall anchors or even a new work gang box. Look for low voltage mounting brackets, aka "mud ring"; here's an example:
iMBAPrice Single Gang (1-Gang) Low Voltage Mounting Bracket - Black (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYHEC38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EEdXzbEE0RGCT
Invert these on the wall (put the face against the wall) and trace the inner rectangle. Then take a drywall saw and cut out the trace. Insert the ring, tighten the screws, put on the face plate, done.
I've done IT work in a field and office setting for years, and this is the best, cleanest way, and it's perfectly acceptable (at least here in TN).
Get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0069KOJ48/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_At71Cgfa337ku
I did the exact same thing last year running cat 6 into 2 rooms. I cut the drywall out large enough to accommodate the new box which allows you to go in there with a small pry bar