Best electrical tools & hardware according to redditors

Here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

This is more fun.

If you are looking to do this yourself you need a combination of the following:

• Drywall knife (Something like Stanley 20-556 6-Inch FatMax Jab Saw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005QVQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kw7Ezb2HJYX5K)
  
  
• Cordless Drill (Even a regular corded drill will work)
  
  
• Flexbit for drilling through studs if needed (Something like Eagle Tool US EA37518 Auger Style Flex Installer Bit for Wood, 3/16" Shank Diameter, 3/8" Head Diameter x 18" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MTFTORA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5x7Ezb81XWXP0)
  
  
• Glowrods (Something like 33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pz7Ezb7YCC3GD)
  
  
• Stud finder if you don't know how to knock on the wall to find the studs
  
  
• Wire pass through vanity plates (
  DataComm 45-0001-WH 1-Gang Recessed Low Voltage Cable Plate (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00193U3O0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VF7EzbAP6DKCZ)
  
  
• Tension bracket for drywall so you can mount the plates (Low Voltage Bracket Single Gang https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWJGGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PH7EzbM4KHX9H)
  
  
  If you are just going to mount the monitors right in front of your desk and don't need to go sideways like OP then you can just cut the drywall where you are going to mount the monitors and then go down to where your exit point will be and cut there and drop your wires through.
  
  If you need to do some fancy stuff - Ideally you would want to see if where all your studs were, measure the distance you'll need to bore through studs and then get glow rods and flex bits with sufficient length to do the job. Also your flex bit will need to be a big enough diameter to fit your cables through. Flex bits are super easy to work with.
  
  Hope this helps!
  
  

I bought an electrician’s fish tape and attached my endoscope to that with tape. Makes it more rigid so you can jam it around the ridges in those drain pipes.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_IzOCDbV9AVQ4Z

OP! That tester you are looking at will only check that the cables are installed without flipped or crossed pairs, and that there isn't a break somewhere. To do an actual performance tests on the cables you'd need this, or something similar...and you'd probably never use it again in your life. As it's more than ten times the cost of your install, I'd say it's not worth it.

That said, don't buy that POS you're looking at. Buy this. Paladin sucks. Buy the Ideal kit and it will serve you well until the day you die.

Ok, so looking over your pictures I have good news. You should be able to call a company that does actual communication's wiring and simply have them move that rack mount up 1.5 feet or so and re-terminate, and be done with it. It's at most 4 hours of work for a skilled tech. I could do it in less than 3. So..that's about $400 max, perhaps way less depending on where you live.

If that is a bit of a steep price you could buy this (DON'T BE CHEAP, GET THAT KIT!) and do it yourself no problem. You could then also pop open the face plates and repair the jacks if need be, because they are probably not terminated properly either based on what I see here. I could be wrong. Can you post an image of a jack side termination?

Now, is any of this strictly necessary? Probably not. The outer jacket on standard cat 6 is not doing very much over that short of a distance. Your twist density is maintained, and that's what's paramount. That said, properly terminating a patch panel can be an enjoyable and rewarding experience, and I think you should give it a try.

Also, residential runs are short (short = high performance), and cat 6 is excessive for most users needs. Cat 5e preforms at gigabit, do you have anything with a more than gigabit network port? Neither do most of the commercial customers my industry sells shielded cat 6a installs to...but that's another topic entirely. Anyway, proper terminations on both ends and nothing majorly screwy going on with the install as a whole and you have an excellent (excessive actually) home Ethernet system for the life of the building.

BTW, was this a commercial install it would have cost you a minimum of *$***7200** where I live...so you are getting a hell of a deal, even with residential cable being cheaper and these AV clowns having fucked the dog on the panel termination, kind of. But if they didn't kill the cable with metal staples for some reason, or bend the ever loving hell out of it for some reason, it should preform as is and if not with at best a days work a professional can bring it up to spec, maybe two days if you do it yourself.

I keep looking this over. It's a huge wall of text that says everything is probably fine, but you should fix it anyway. That is my final answer.

The best way to connect it up so that you have Internet is to get a switch with enough ports to handle all of the jacks, and then wire patch cables coming off of each one of the cables going into that block. You will need a punch down tool ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2sgzbNSBBEK7) a rj45 crimper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5PT7G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R3sgzb0GCQ5SN) some rj45 connectors ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m5sgzb3KQHCC8) and some CAT5 cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034XBFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6sgzb9E3ZTQ4). You strip the wires on both sides. One side gets punched down onto the block (make sure that the colors match) and the other side is terminated with a rj45 connector (make sure that the cable is long enough to reach your switch!). Once they are all terminated, you plug them into the switch, and have your switch hooked up to your Internet modem, and then all of the jacks will have Internet access.

I prefer a fish tape to any other option mentioned here. Better than a coat hanger because it is spring steel and wants to stay straight.

If it's the rods you screw together, we call it a fish rod. if it's the metal strip that rolls up into a unit with a handle, we call it a fish tape. There was a special fish rod that was green nylon that glowed in the dark and we called it the glow rod.

What? This is a terrible way to run cable. The chain idea won't work well if the wall is insulated. If you locate from below with a drill, you're not taking into consideration what may be above, such as electrical, hvac, ect. You'll also probably mess up your ceiling when drilling a locator hole, not all ceilings are the same and a "little white toothpaste" will only match a fraction of them.

Instead, locate your drop by measuring from the closest electric outlet in the wall and above where it drops in through the top plate. This will also show the stud location, so you avoid it when cutting your hole. To fish the wall, you can drop a weighted string if the wall is un-insulated and you'll see the string dangling by your wall hole (since you measured, it shouldn't be more then a few inches off from the top plate hole). If the wall is insulated, as it probably is, just stick a fish tape down from the top hole (like this one) and grab it through the wall hole. Then just attach to your cable and run it from the wall end (or attach string if you pulled your cable into the attic). Since there are a lot of special situations we ran into, there are other methods that don't deface the wall or ceiling, just ask if this doesn't work.

Also, cabling is much easier with two people carrying two-way radios (or cell phones). One in the attic threading the wall and dropping cable, and one below cutting the wall holes and grabbing the fish tape.

Source: I was the service manager for an IT company and ran commercial low-voltage cable on a weekly basis. We also re-ran a lot of cable that big companies (like Comcast) did poorly.

First, do it now, while its not to hot/cold. running cable in the attic in the summer sucks. you kinda need 2+ people to run cable. it can be done solo, but that brings in so many more complications, beer for buddy. so yeah, like /u/xmangusx said, you don't want electronics up in the attic, top of a closet should be ok, somewhere a little more climate controlled. i haven't run cable in residential in a long time, but did do up a new floor of a building, and work at a datacenter, so take the numbers as a rough guide.
even if you think you want just 1 jack in each spot, run 4 cables to each room. alot easier to run a bundle of four now, then to go back and add in cabling later, even if you just let the bare end dangle behind the drywall. below is some suggested parts:
1000FT Cat 6 Bulk Bare Copper ethernet cable

4 hole keystone wall plate

cat6 punchdowns

keystone blank plates

electrical box

punchdown tool

network cable tester

24port patch panel will work in 19inch rack

wire line puller

pull string

so 1 blue box, 1 wall plate, a few blanks ( as desired # of ports) per room. start in somewhere a little less important like say the laundry room, or a closet, so you can get a hang of using the drywall knife to cut the hole, how big it needs to be etc. you will want to be near ( but not to close give liek 6 inches) to an electrical outlet if you can. use a studfinder, it should be where the electrical outlet is ( which side is the box on). find where the electrical cable comes through the 2x4, move over enough to account for stud width plus a little fudge factor, and drill a small hole, maybe 1/4 inch, just big enough to get the end of the fish line through. cut small hole in drywall near the electrical outlet ( opposite the stud) start with maybe 2 inch by 2 inch, will need to be bigger later for the box. run the fish down from attic through the stud hole you drilled, behind the drywall, and find it in the small hole cut. attach pull string to it, and pull it back, and keep pulling the pull string all the way back to central location. repeat till have all holes cut, lines run. now you will have a pretty good idea if you will need 1 or more cat6 1000ft spindles.

the hard part is going to be getting around in the attic, and simply finding a way to get from point a to be with the cable, creative use of a drill bit will be necessary. the punchdown blocks that go into the plates are color codes, do all A or B throughout the house, don't mix-n-match ( B is more common ), and is color coded. only will need a crimper, ends, is if you want to custom make the cables going from patch panel to switch, hint just buy 20 or whatever of appropriate length cables premade from monoprice, like $1 each.
expect 2 people who have never done this before, this to take more than 1 weekend.

Buy some glow rods:
33' Electric Fiberglass Wire Pull Rods Fish Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tGuhAb26GG3VD

Crimper:
Fluke Networks 11212530 Modular Crimper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5VAXW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oK1TDbHF8JB1F

Combo kit with stripper, lineman's snips and punchdown tool:
Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sL1TDbK5ZHW73

I've had my Fluke tools for years. Dropped, lost, dropped again and have never had an issue

Klein Tools is also a great brand for low-volt/Telecom tools

Edit: ideally, you should really never be crimping ends for production use. Horizontal cabling should never terminate with RJ45 modular plugs and instead terminate to keystone jacks on both ends of the run and patching should be done on both sides with high quality pre-made patch cords. You’ll save yourself a ton of heartburn this way.

I've only ever used these ones

They get the job done.

I bought a long, white coax cable from home depot, and ran it down the wall, and around the baseboards to the opposite wall, to be hidden on my media unit. Used these to secure it tightly in place, along boards. It is basically invisible. You can also get different styles of clips at your hardware store.

Wire conduit. If you have an attic you can access running cable through the wall and up into the attic then back down the other side to rear speakers is easy enough with fish tape/poles, a drill, and a drywall saw. Use a gang ring and wall plate to cover the entry and exit holes of the wires.

With no attic you have to run the wire through the wall itself all the way to the rear speakers which is a pain in the ass because you have to drill through every stud. I definitely do not recommend that route. If all else fails with the wife forgo the rear speakers entirely and just get a REALLY nice 3.1 setup. Don't underestimate how good those can be.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

or

https://www.amazon.com/Fish-Impact-Electric-Communication-Puller/dp/B0025Z81BS

The advice given to get an Edgerouter + Unifi AP will likely service you the best in the long run. However you should strongly consider hard wiring any device you can. This will likely give you the greatest performance increase regardless of the hardware you decide using.

It's much cheaper than you may have anticipated. There's many ways to do this but here are a couple options:

OPTION #1
100ft finished Cable $12.99
https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Gigabit-Ethernet-Snagless-Connector/dp/B016A913LY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=100ft+cat6&qid=1551089563&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1


OPTION #2
Create your own Cable with the following supplies

Raw CAT6 Cable 100ft = $18.90
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Copper-Outdoor-Resistant-Syston/dp/B079H3BKGV/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=100ft+cat6&qid=1551089731&s=gateway&sr=8-15

Punchdown Tool = $9.99
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=Punchdown+tool&qid=1551090195&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Keystone Jack (x2) = $9.80
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001BLWX3Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

CAT6 Patch Cable = $2.89
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-27141-Snagless-Unshielded-Network/dp/B00008KA6Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Patch%2BCable%2BCat6&qid=1551090947&s=gateway&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1


HOW TO
https://youtu.be/0gxNZoPcnP4

Paying someone to run Ethernet is a huge waste of money. Even with buying all the tools and supplies yourself you will save lots of money.

In your situation I would go up into the attic then run down into the walls to your wall jacks.

Stuff you'll need: (not including drywall saw and gang boxes/gang frames to mount the wall jacks)

http://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Crimper-Connector-Network- Crimper315/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464334&sr=1-2&keywords=rj45

http://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-Go-19958-Steel/dp/B0017RAHSA /ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464421&sr=1-2&keywords=wire+fish

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/jacks-and-connectors/cat5e-keystone-jacks-25-packs

http://www.cablingplus.com/t/networking/wall-plates/classic-keystones- wall-plates

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457464708&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=110+punch+down&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Cat5e-Ethernet-Cat-5e-VIVO-CABLE-V001/dp/B0092TG310/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457464781&sr=1-5&keywords=cat5

For around $165.00 you'll have everything you need. Less if you need less than 1000' of cable.

It's true that the cable I listed is not plenum rated but you're not going to be in the attic if your house is on fire anyway. I wouldn't worry about it or waste the money on it.

I've installed hundreds of miles of cat5 in my earlier career before switching to sysadmin stuff.

Here you go!

Krone tool.

Thanks...

Okay, the easiest and cheapest way of doing this is:

• Get a switch like this one https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/
  
  
• Get a network tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Network-Maintenance-Portable-Crimper-Connectors/dp/B0756SN86D/
  
  
• Get some Cat6 RJ45 connectors https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-100-PACK-Connector-Connectors-Transparent/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/
  
  
  What you need to do is:
  
  
• Disconnect all the blue cables from that panel
  
  
• Wire them up with the RJ45 connectors learn how to do that here https://youtu.be/rV5vgk2Mt3Iand here https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Check the wiring on the wall sockets, that it matches the pinout from https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Connect the blue cables and also the grey cable to the switch, and you should be good to go.
  
  
  Note, you may need to get new wall sockets, but I could suggest to do one test cable first and then run a speedtest using speedtest.ui.com to see if you get the same as your internet provider. One other thing to note, is that I'm not sure that Frontier Communications device is a router and can handle all the connections, you may need to get a router also.

I think rampant destruction is one of the things that you just have to be prepared for when you decide to have pets or small children, it comes with the territory :-) No matter how careful you try to be, the best you can do is plan on the fact that something will get destroyed, and try to make sure that it doesn't end with a trip to the emergency vet/hospital.

I have a very curious Great Dane who's now 16 months old. Even in his puppy days he was big enough to reach my vanity table-top and/or knock the table over. A few months ago I solved the problem entirely by moving my battlestation into my master closet, which is a walk-in. Dexter is afraid of the bathroom (which is between the bedroom and closet), so he won't go near it at all. It didn't sound like you have a place to put your stuff that's off-limits to the cats, so here are some other things I've done in the past to pet-proof my valuables-

• Make everything as inaccessible as possible. Do you have free wall-space where you could mount a shelf that the cats can't get to? It would have to be high enough off the floor and far enough away from launching points for the cats to jump to, so it depends on how agile they are :-)
  
  
• Make everything as stationary as possible. Velcro picture-hanging strips (like this) are great. Just put one side on the bottom of anything you don't want to be knocked over and the other side on the surface where it sits. Mirror, lamp, storage containers, etc.
  
  
• Don't leave things dangling. I'm thinking primarily of lamp cords, but really anything that might make a tempting toy or get snagged when pets get the zoomies. Cords can be tacked down with cable clips or even taped down with duct tape.
  
  
• Regarding lights - lamps with flexible necks might be a good option. If they're secured to the table, a cat hitting them should just move the lamp head instead of knocking the whole thing to the floor. LED lamps might also be a little more resistant to bulb breakage.
  
  
• Don't leave any small items lying around. Containers for everything, seriously. I store my makeup in acrylic drawers like this and this. Both are pretty difficult to open without opposable thumbs. I got mine from Amazon, but they're really generic and you can find the exact same things on ebay. They're fairly light and could get knocked over, so I'd recommend the picture-hanging strips to secure them to the table/shelf/whatever. I bet you could also use adhesive-backed velcro to rig up little 'latches' on the drawers.

Use a patch panel. It's more organized, and you'll be able to terminate cables much faster and more reliably on a patch panel or keystone jacks.

Here's a decent tool: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM

Also, just buy your own patch cables rather than making them.

Is this more like what you're looking for?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000I97FHY/
Or a little more power and finish
https://www.homedepot.com/p/PowerShot-5900-Insulated-Cable-and-Wire-Tacker-5900/202097439

The below is all you should need maybe with the addition of some paint

mounting wall hooks

cable clips

send me pics if you end up making it!

cable snake you seek cable snake! They come in different sizes. A quick and dirty version is to pull the outlet and drop a weighted string to tie to the cable and pull through.

Get a Patch Panel, a Punch Down tool, a ethernet crimper, some ethernet ends (i prefer the EZ, but they are pricy), and a network tester. All that for $70 and you can terminate and troubleshoot all the cables you desire!

My personal kit is a little more expensive, but really the only thing I wouldn't trade for a cheaper tool is the tester. Crimper, Punchdown, Tester.

If your 2.4GHz spectrum is crowded, then moving to the 5GHz spectrum could really help. Remember, though, that both the router and the computer have to support 5GHz to talk there. You might need to buy a new wireless card for it.

If you want to be sure you'll never have to deal with wireless interference again, though, you have to ditch the wireless. You can buy network cable in all kinds of lengths for pretty cheap, and just tack it to your baseboards.

Fish tape. Klein Tools 56001 1/8-Inch Wide Steel Fish Tape, 50-Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3U0LAbR43RGS9

I would have had the same problem, but instead I bought these [bad boys] (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Clip-White-RG6-100-pieces/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344787963&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+clips). I don't know how your parents would like the cable going along the trim though :\

Yea if its a brick house you need basement or attic access to be minimally invasive. If the landlord is cool and does not care... you could just drill in through the side of the house right next to what ever room you were running the wire into.

If you do the eyehole thing on the door. Just be sure to run the wires so they will not get pinched :)

These will help with that

> fishsticks

Are you referring to these?

Sorry not familiar with the term.

amazon + paladin

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-4909-SureStrip-Non-Impact-Punchdown/dp/B0008F5VA6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1323570620&sr=8-4

http://www.amazon.com/Paladin-Tools-1574-Testing-Installed/dp/B0002W3A6M/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

Otherwise you're into the 200+ range.

Here are things from my wishlist (past and present)

Wera Screwdrivers
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0085NTQJK/

Oscillating blade set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0109SELWA/

Clamp multimeter:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

Kreg Jig Jr.:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000J43A7W/

Angled Long Nose Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00N3VSS4S/

Groove Lock Pliers:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000FK1R0W/

11 ft wifi endoscope:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MYTHWK4/

non contact voltage tester:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001UAHZAM/

claw nail puller:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

Workmate portable work bench:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000077CQ0/

Cable snake fish tape:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000BP7WBO/

9 Outlet metal power bar:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F8ZQY5M/

Spade drill bit set:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00099E7WE/

36" bubble level:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000UKMWMO/

Staple gun is not a good idea, it will almost certainly damage it. They make purpose made staple guns for running wires, or you can get a pack of cable tacks Example.

Edit: If you really want to use a staple gun, don't staple the wire, staple a zip tie up in the middle and then use that to secure the cable.

Here are the links without the referral tags:
Stud-finder and Fish Tape.

All of the above, plus a few usb thumb drives.

A copy of any os you expect to work on as you can almost guarantee that the customer does not have a copy. (set up a seperate usb drive to install each os).

A few known good parts also helps. (cheap graphics card for systems with no integrated graphics, a spare power supply to allow you to insure nothing else is damaged if a psu goes bad (had that happen to me, psu and graphics, just didn't know about the graphics till after replacing the psu and felt stupid "yeah your psu was bad, but your graphics card is bad also...")

If you are doing mobile repairs (at customers location), then a laptop and internet access (from your phone hotspot or separate hotspot never count of the customer to have internet access).

If you are going to be running new network cable then a:

wall fish I prefere the fiber glass rods for running across attics or drop ceilings over the metal tape unless you will be running in conduit (but in conduit I prefer jetline and compressed air for that).

strong magnet, and a chain (you can buy it by the foot from hardware stores)(small links, 10ft of Sash Chain is what I use. (tape the wire to the chain with electrical tape, drop the chain down the wall, use the magnet to locate it, a strong magnet will slap the chain to the inside of the wall, and pull the chain to the whole for the outlet then pull the wire through)

Just buy these...

http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

I have my entire rented house ran using those things, I just do it along the wall/baseboard all neat and stuff. They have wider versions if you wanna run two cables instead of one. When I need to run it up a wall and there is no corner near by, I just use this...

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_2?rh=n%3A172282%2Ck%3Acable+channel+raceway+wall&page=2&keywords=cable+channel+raceway+wall&ie=UTF8&qid=1418615205

Hmm, wonder why they did that. Anyway, here's an Amazon link - https://www.amazon.ca/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=coaxial+cable+clip&qid=1571259964&sr=8-3

You can do it that way, but it isn't recommended. Putting on your own male networking connectors has become bad form, sort of, over the last few years. They just aren't very reliable when using solid conductor cable and they are extremely difficult to install on stranded cable without the $50k machine they use in the factory... Someday your home terminated cable will fail for no apparent reason and it will ruin your life.

If I were doing it, I would run the cable and put a box in the wall. The cable is fine. I would pickup some old work low voltage boxes, and install a wall plate and use some keystone jacks and whatever jumpers you like.

If you are open to buying somewhere other than monoprice, I really like the Cable Matters keystone jacks nowadays. I like this punch tool but this knockoff works ok as well and if you are just doing a few than you could probably get away with the plastic thing that comes with each keystone jack... they eventually will work it might just take longer and you might have to dick with it a bit.

It looks like the stuff you have picked out will work, but it just might not be super reliable or aesthetically pleasing. Plus, what do you do if you move something? Now you just have a hole in the wall with some wires flopping around... If you put jacks on the wall they just blend in with all the other jacks on the wall if you remove the jumpers...

I have been really pleased with everything from Cable Matters lately. We terminated 1200 cables for a huge IP HD video system a few weeks ago using their stuff and only had 2 or 3 that had to be repunched and we had one cable run that didn't check and that was probably our fault pulling too hard and getting a kink in it. It's pretty reasonably priced all things considered.

Also, the cable you have picked out is great. It's pure copper and not copper clad aluminum (CCA). Never use CCA it's absolute garbage and won't ever work for anything. CCA will ruin your life.

EDIT: I just wanted to correct myself, we have been buying Honeywell Genesis cat6 cable lately... not monoprice. We have been getting a better deal through ADI global on the Honeywell stuff and it is very nice cable. The reel in a box is so much better than the usual mess... no more kinks so you don't need to pay someone $25 an hour to babysit some boxes and pay out cable and yell "stop!" over the radio all day when they have to sort a kink...

Vastar Network Wire Punch Down Impact Tool with Two Blades - 110 and BK & Network Wire Stripper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7DDtybSHVADW5


This is the tool I have.

Here is my way to do this as cheaply as I'd feel comfortable doing (note, not as cheaply as possible).

I'd put a new switch in the new office and use cat5 cable to connect to the existing switch. I'd install the new switch in a wall mount rack, and install a wall mount patch panel in the rack. I'd terminate all stations in the new office to the patch panel. The inter-office connection should be terminated to this new panel, and the other side terminated to a panel there or surface mount jack if no panel available. The number one piece of advice for a novice is do not run the cables directly to the switches or computers. Cables should be terminated to a jack or patch panel.

• $37 Wall mount bracket
  
• $24 24 port patch panel
  
• ~$1 Various length patch cords
  
• ~$1+ Various surface mount boxes
  
• $1.25 Keystone Jacks
  
• $65 1000ft of bulk cable
  
  If you don't have tools already I highly recommend you splurge a little here. I know it seems stupid "I'm only going to use it once!!". Trust me, buying decent tools can cut your install time in half or more. This $50 kit is what you need. It's extremely important to get and use the cable stripper (SureStrip in that kit). If you knick the inner cable while stripping the outer jacket on Cat5 you pretty much have to start all over. You don't really need an impact tool, that kit comes with a non-impact tool. If you have a few extra $$ go ahead and get one for about $20.
  
  For a switch, maybe Dell. We've used them in non critical areas in our enterprise, and they work fine and reliably. You mentioned PoE - unfortunately PoE switches are nearly 2x the cost of non PoE. With your tight budget, I suggest using PoE injectors. Here is a 4 port for $60 and a one port for $24

Punchdown tool. The hook is for snagging small wires. There should be a spring loaded punch in the front.

https://www.amazon.com/Multifunction-Network-Telephone-Terminal-Insertion/dp/B06Y53H9WF/ref=zg_bs_6396135011_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DCMN9CR4Z22Q31T3C9TR

https://www.amazon.com/Best-Sellers-Home-Improvement-Punchdown-Tools/zgbs/hi/6396135011

I did find this

https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-06186-Cablecaster-Pulling-Three/product-reviews/B001HWAGRM

But videos show it's weak. Can't get more than 15' from it and it looks crappy.

A fish tape reduced my wire-related cursing substantially.

I didn't see anyone else mention them, but since this is low voltage, you don't even need a box at all. You can use nothing more than a mud ring, many of which will secure just through the drywall itself. Personally I prefer the metal versions, but they're not as widely available in single units. Why hassle with a box at all when you don't need one?

You also may want to look at the "fish sticks" which are flexible rods. I like the ones with 18" sections, myself. Start at the bottom and you have more control than a tape in most cases. Home Depot has versions of these as well, OP.

Note that the rods aren't a complete replacement for a tape. They're simply a different tool that sometimes does the job better in certain situations.

Something like this would mount into a rack. You would take those cables and punch the wire into the back of the panel in the link above, similar to your existing setup.

Also, this is a punch down tool.

These things don't totally cover the strip but they are more than enough to keep it held on tight.

PARTH IMPEX Round Cable Wire Clips 4mm 6mm 8mm 10mm (Pack of 400) Cable Management RG6 RG59 CAT5 CAT6 RJ45 Electrical Ethernet Dish TV Speaker Wire Cord Tie Holder Single Coaxial Nail Clamps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYB2NV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Kui5AbSKNGRY2

My favorite tool from when I used to run cables (the thing has reasonably good range, too)

I like the tennis ball idea. I have something called a cable caster that I use. Think of a fishing reel mounted on a dart gun. The line ties to the "dart" and goes a good ways too.
https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-06186-Cablecaster-Pulling-Three/dp/B001HWAGRM

If you have interior walls are on studs and not insulated, running the wires down the walls will be much easier (since you are already going into the attic). Plus you don't have buy more expensive cable, worry about making sure the wound you put in the outside of the house is sealed appropriately to be weatherproof.

You'll need to drill a small hole in the header of the wall from the attic. If the wall isn't insulated then just drop the cable down the opening and grab it from where you make the cutout for your Ethernet faceplate/keystone jack. If you go all uninsulated walls, you'll just need a drill and standard tools. If a wall is insulated, a fish tape will be helpful. Just use your stud finder to make sure that you don't have a fire block in that stud cavity as that presents additional challenges.

Now if you have brick/cement walls, that does present another challenge.

Cat 5e unless your PS4 is capable of 10Gbs-1! Its cheap and dependable and most back boxes are designed for it. The e is important but it is quite unlikely that you will find only Cat5 which is only rated up to 100Mbs-1. If you only need one then run two and leave a foot or so in the wall at each end for the extra cable, just in case. If I was you I'd run three cables and terminate two of them and keep one as a spare coiled up in the back of the back box.

I assume US and let's see what Amazon.com offers. https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Plate-ESYLink-Cable-Female/dp/B076GLSN5J/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wall+port+ethernet+2+port&qid=1565562692&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Ahh, it looks like you lot insist on Cat6 and have huge wall plates. So I'll change my suggestion to Cat6. Make sure you run an extra cable and don't stress them too much when you are laying them, especially when pulling through a hole, it is easy to kink them and try to use brute force to fix the problem. Buy solid core cable (not stranded) which is designed to work with "keystone jacks".

You'll need this tool https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-protecting-jacket-Multi-Function-Ethernet/dp/B01FHBZJ20/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=ethernet+punch+down+tool&qid=1565563203&s=gateway&sr=8-12 to make the connections. You can practice on some off cuts of cable before going live. The hook on the tool makes it easy to pull the wires back out from the back of a jack. There are a lot of videos on the web about doing all this stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/Ram-Pro-33-Feet-Fiberglass-Electrical-Running/dp/B07F2LWVDV/ref=lp_6396129011_1_6?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1565394178&sr=1-6

drill your hole a little bigger than you might normally, tape your wire to this, and push it through to where you can get at it.

These - I was able to get a smaller container of them at Walmart for like $1-2 bucks. They work well if you dont mind putting a nail in the floor.

Just run one along the wall above head level and hold it up using these things

thats what I did, not 200 feet though.

They have cable holders that do exactly this.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Clip-White-RG6-100-pieces/dp/B000I97FHY

Currently these are the tools I use... Mostly Klein. I've been using these for a few years now with minimal issues...

Crimper

Punch Down

Side Cutters

Scissors

Stripper

Lan Tracer / Tester

this is a good start. I dont own this set but it does look nice.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-11293000-IS60-Pro-Tool/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1331522014&sr=1-1

Definitely don't use staples. Use wire clips like this.

then it is for phone. You may get a patchpanel, remove the wiring from the phone panel, and use a punch tool to connect it to the ethernet patch panel. You would need to run power to that location and connect each patch panel port to the switch/router that you locate there.

Note: this only works if all 8 wires were connected in the wall sockets. If there are only 2 of the 8 connected, redo them.

Punch tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FHBZJ20/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 )

Patch panel: e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Wallmount-Ethernet-N050-012/dp/B000067SC6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495168315&sr=1-4&keywords=patch+panel

I did the same in my apartment last weekend. There was already a patch panel for ethernet, but all wiring was connected to the phone panel.

Yes I know, that's the one thing this thing offers lol, it's the only real tangible benefit you've been able to find to explain why it's 10x as much as an echo dot.

BTW these two tools will give you that same "hidden wires" benefit for a whole lot less money:

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Measuring-Klein-Tools-56005/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366334&sr=8-5&keywords=fishtape&dpID=51JR4coh8YL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-206-Jab-Wood-Handle/dp/B00002X21P/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538366405&sr=8-6&keywords=drywall+saw&dpID=21Fk1DkuDxL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And then here are the actual mounts themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Simple-Built-Google-Home-Mount/dp/B078Z214QX

EDIT Whoops that's the home mini, I'm sure there's an echo dot equivalent though. Frankly if you don't already have these assistants in your home, I would highly recommend the google version, it's a whole lot more useful and intelligent than alexa.

the little uhooks with the nail on them. I work in IT and i use the shit out of these things to clean up cables when they are going to visible

https://www.amazon.com/PARTH-IMPEX-Management-Electrical-Ethernet/dp/B06ZYB2NV1/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541194959&sr=8-4&keywords=cable+hooks

A network tester like this one doesn't cost much and might help you diagnose the issue. It can test if a link is working if you plug it in at each end, and you can also use them to send a signal through the link which the other piece can detect from nearby. Pretty useful if you ever need to suss out the location of a cable through a wall or something.

Imo the most likely case is that the connection at one or more of the ends has become broken. You should be able to fix that rather easily yourself. Google "RJ45 wall jack installation" for more info on that. You would need a punch down tool for that.

"Fishing tape" is more like a hard, but flexible wire that is used for fishing. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Fish-Tape-Reel-Communication/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=zg_bs_6396129011_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E8KQSF2EQ0B0MFT14W9F

"Fishing pole/rod" is more like a hard, semi-flexible fiberglass rod. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=zg_bs_6396129011_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E8KQSF2EQ0B0MFT14W9F

Sometimes you want one or the other.

All those blue cables and the single white one might be cat5, so the statement doesn't make much sense. cat5 just means it's a 4-pair cable that has a certain number of twists per inch to meet frequency requirements.

If he had said "Row 7 on the 66 block is hot", that would mean something.

Now that I think of it, he could mean that of all the connected rows shown there, only 1 is passing the centurylink signal to a wall jack.

Either way, you need to map what row on that 66 block goes to what wall jack. The usual way is to map it with a tone generator. Trial and error is the other way (e.g., keep moving the centurylink signal on the 66 block until it lands on the wall jack you want).

At the very least, you could get a friend on a cell phone to sit at the wall jack that works while you sit at the 66 block. Start disconnecting stuff one-by-one until your friend tells you the signal went out. You'll have at least found where that wall jack is on the 66 block - or you found where the centurylink signal is coming in. The logic being you either disconnected the incoming signal to the block, or you disconnected the wall jack from the block. A punchdown tool is handy for making connections to the 66 block - just make sure you have the cutting blade pointed the right way.

If the "technician" suggested powerline BEFORE suggesting anything else (like an AP or mesh system) you can completely disregard anything he says honestly. Powerline is probably best saved for a last resort. You could always run Ethernet cables on the walls and use those nail in cable anchors to secure them. Something like this

Then just plug the Ethernet cable into a ubiquiti access point and you're good to go

• Wifi
  
• Powerline adapters (but you'll still run ethernet to the adapters themselves)
  
  Either solution will introduce latency. So if you're playing competitive fps games, it'll negatively affect your game.
  
  Why not use something like this to make the wire run look neater?

Either use /u/steebo's suggestion of a vacuum at the other end, or get yourself a fish tape which is a really great tool for fishing cable down long distances. The "tape" is metal so it's easy to push, but also bends easily so it can make it around bends in conduit.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481834961&sr=8-2&keywords=cable+tacks

Maybe you can find one sized exactly for USB, Q&A indicates this might be just a touch loose.

You're looking for one of these. You "feed" from as far away as you can (in this case, 25'); tape your wires to the end, and pull it back through. You can do the same thing with just string but it's not as easy and string has a tendency of breaking at the worst time.

well you're lucky you have the "trust" style floor joists. Many people have either just old school 2 x 12" or the engineered I beam style joists and with those you're SOL on fishing wire through.

​

What I'd recommend is getting a fish tape wire reel kit and not the "stick kits". So depending on how far you have to go and ease of use, this tape reel kit will be easier to use.

Nope, I ran it all myself. The longest run was from my basement to the attic. From the attic, I drilled down from the top stud into the wall of a closet. I cut open the wall of the closet and installed an access panel like this when I was done instead of patching it (so I can get in there later if I need to). From the closet, I drilled down through the floor stud inside the wall. Then my basement has a drop ceiling, so it was easy to route it down to where my media closet is. I used a fish tape to run the cable.

I don't have any construction background, but it was easy to learn from watching YouTube tutorial videos. If you're not up for doing it yourself, you can hire an electrician (expensive) or you can usually find A/V installers who can do low voltage runs through your walls for cheaper.

Closest thing I could find to what we used but ours wasn't as good as this one

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HWAGRM?pc_redir=1409578671&robot_redir=1

For drop ceilings and low voltage cable, fish sticks are absolutely the way to go. Also zip ties. There's also this guy. Looks fun, but I can't say I've ever actually used it.

I'm in a pretty arid place, but even I have gutters. How does your house handle rain?

That being said: electrical staples.

> Now, do I need a specified keystone for solid cat6 as opposed to stranded?

most keystones are designed for solid cable, because they assume that solid is what you run in the walls. Stranded is for patch cables, and should not really be run in the walls.

I just get these in whatever colors I want when I need them, and I use this punchdown tool, and it works perfectly.

Yeah, it was sort of a hacky way to do it. At this point, I'll likely buy some keystone jacks and redo it (since I also bought a punchdown tool already).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LW4CFG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can go through the ceiling of a basement (finished, drop ceiling) or along the top of a basement (unfinished) or along the bottom of an attic. I also have a wire snake to pull them through the walls to go up and down. So you cut a hole for the plate, then either drop the cable snake down the wall from the attic to the hole or from the basement to the hole and tape the end of the cable on and pull it through. Then pull it to wherever your [punchdown panel]/[switch]/[router] is and either make an end and plug it in or punch it in to your punchdown panel. On the other end you punch down the jack and screw it in and you're set.

Supplies:
Cat5e or Cat6 cable
Keystone Jack
Wallplate
Low Voltage electric box
RJ45 Ends

If you are interested, I can write a more detailed guide and a tools/optional supplies list later.

I've done a decent amount a cabling over the last 20 years or so. the first few links I found on google aren't bad.

I'd definitely recommend having a fish tape or pull rod. Usually when I've done it in a home, I like to pull up from the basement (where I end up putting the patch panel every time I've done it) up to the attic before then running it to the upper floor rooms. I've used traditional wall plates using punch down connectors, but I think that now that they're available I would use a F/F wall plate so all you have to do is make an RJ-45 on the wall cable and plug it into the wall jack. Leave yourself an extra 12'-36" at either end of a pull (in the biz we call it a service loop, it gives you some extra play and lets you have plenty of length if you need to re-terminate).

Generally you want to use Solid cable in walls and Stranded to make patch cables, but for a home install it won't kill you to re-use the same cable for both. Plenum cable is for fire code, and generally you use it for runs in open ventilated drop tile ceilings.

Depending on how many runs you'll have and what you plan on doing, you might want a patch panel at the source of the runs. That lets you terminate the run on the panel and then makes it easier to label and re-connect things in the future. It's the more pro thing to do, but it's no the end of the world to terminate with an RJ-45.

Chances are pretty good that any switch you can get will be fine for your home needs. Even running a Plex server to a game console or streaming device you'll be fine. Only is you regularly want to move multi GB or TB files around will you see a difference between a Netgear desktop switch and a major Cisco monster (assuming that you won't have many connections and you don't need any of the more advanced features). The only feature that you may get some mileage out of is Power Over Ethernet (POE), which allows you to use some IP Phones and Wireless access points without a power adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

It's an art- it's helpful if you're familiar with how a building of that era and type is constructed. You can start at the top and drop down, or start at the bottom and push up with a fiberglass fishing rod, or drop a pull-string or fishing tape and pull the Ethernet up, or some combination therof.

Given my house, I'll probably try to drop a string down from the attic and pull ethernet up. If I get lucky I can use the same string to pull from the basement to the first floor livingroom too.

I'm lucky, there's a basement under the first floor and an attic above the second. For people on a slab or 3-story builds there's often little choice other than to go on-wall or do some significant drywall cutting.

I once had to notch drywall and right-angle drill studs for a 30ft length of wall because the client needed drops all along the space and it had to be in-wall. Slab construction and an open ceiling = nowhere to go. Drywall guy bought me a case of beer :D

> How should I finish the ethernet cables?

Like another person said, use keystones. Don't use toolless as they are pretty crappy but just get a cheap punchdown tool and keystones for each room.
I would personally use a patch panel where the cables are going to be run to, but it wouldn't be necessary if you're only going to be running them how you initially explained.

> Can there be any conflict between the wifi of my router and the wifi of the APs?

There can, but they should be able to figure it out on their own. That said, if you're using APs (or WAPs as I call them at work, for Wireless Access Point, sorry about the change in terminology), you should just use a wired router instead of one with Wifi. No reason to add another component and interface to your situation.

> Good to know. From what I read, the usual setup is to have Ubiquiti controller installer on a computer running 24/7. So this is only for logging stats, is that right?

Pretty much. I don't think many people are running an actual computer 24/7 just for the software but do it if they have a server running 24/7 already, or just put it on a raspberry pi instead if they really need it.

> So all the APs get the same configuration? They are all configured with the same settings? No need to configure them differently?


> And if I set the SSID and the security for the APs to be the same as the one from my router wifi, everything will appear as one and only one network and there will be no waiting time from the time when I'm connected to one AP and get connected to another one while moving? Also, how will that switch from one AP to the other be done? Will it be automatic or no? Will it be the APs that will determine when to change one device from one AP to the other or the device itself that will "take de decision"?


Unless you want to do something different in a specific part of the house (i.e. guest access not everywhere) then yes. You just leave channels to auto, give every ap the same ssid, and you're devices will automatically switch freely among them. The devices make that decision, but the APs will sorta "help" determine when they should.

> What is a "WAP"? Also, if on the ceiling, I guess it should be in an open area rather than in the corner of a room? I would prefer to install them in the corner of a room in order to make them more "invisible", but I don't want to impact the wifi coverage/speed...

Sorry again, WAP is just what we call Wireless Access Points at work, because we have wired ports labeled Access Points as well. You can definitely install them on walls as well, but the devices are designed to radiate signals stronger in a specific direction. That is usually every direction but directly behind them, which means if you put it on a centrally located wall, the side of the house in front of it will have a stronger signal than the side behind it. You can place them closer to the edge of the house and be pretty good, but you might need to add an extra one to get as good of coverage.

> Do you think the new chip will be integrated in device shortly (the house will still be probably open until june...)?

No need to worry about that. The idea is to run as many cables in the walls as you'll ever need, so you can change tings like a router or APs super easily by just unplugging the old one and plugging in the new one. I don't think they will be popular enough in devices by june to be worth getting yet. probably closer to 2 years.

> A PoE switch seems nice. What is there to look for when buying one?

Definitely. There's 2 types of PoE switches: passive and active. passive switches are cheap and will damage any device that gets plugged into it that doesn't work with the same voltage. Try to stay away from these. Active switches support either 802.1af or 802.1at. Basically you want to make sure your switch and AP support the same type of active PoE. You can plug in anything to these switches without worry. Yes, you'll want to install it right next to your router and run cables to all of your rooms that way.

> Do I need to have ventilation for a PoE switch? Also, there is some that get installed into a rack, but I think this is more for a "pro/business" installation. However, does a PoE switch can be wall mounted?

Don't think of them as "pro/business" models. You seem to be building a large modern house, and having everything centralized will make your life SOOO much easier. I have a much smaller house and have a 24 port switch in my garage. You can just sit it on top of something, or you can make a mini rack, like I did. Just bought a pair of these and secured them to a plate of aluminum. It has my router, a patch panel, and my house switch installed on it, and is sitting on a shelf, although when I get the time and drive I'll mount it to the wall with some shelf arms. As for ventilation, look for the temperature rating on them. The lowest max temp I've ever seen is 40°C/104°F so should be fine in a living space, but depending on where you live might not be in an attic or garage. That said, my garage gets about 115/120°F on the hottest days and I haven't had an issue with my swtich.

>In general, is it better to run distinct ethernet cables with a RJ45 jack on each end or to buy a full spool of ethernet cable and put a RJ45 manually to each end?

Just to reiterate, you want to attach keystones at the very least to the living space side, and either the same thing or a patch panel where they are being run to. Will give you a much more professional look than a hole with cables. People will see it and not notice it, as opposed to seeing it and thinking "they have a hole in their wall already!"

Battery backup on the rack for your servers.

Scratch the pre-maid cat cables and just learn crimp your own cabling.


Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p7Q2AbHFZP2YW

Network Cable Repair Maintenance Tool Kit Set 11 in 1 Portable Phone Cable Crimper 8P8C 4P4C 6P6C Connectors RJ45 RJ11 Cat5 Cat6 Cable Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756SN86D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o5Q2AbBW77GFT

I also recommend an anti-static mat if you are a builder:

StarTech.com 24x27.5-Inch Desktop Anti-Static Mat M3013 (Beige) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009XT3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e9Q2AbGZVFVJ2

If this is a builder workbench I would also recommend a good surge strip:

Bestten 12 Outlet Heavy Duty Workshop Metal Power Strip Surge Protector, 15-Foot Long Extension Cord, ETL Certified, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MY384H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l-Q2AbTXDXJAX

Lastly, how is your lighting in the room?

If you have multiple access points you could try something like this...

Greenlee 06186 Cablecaster Wire Pulling Tool With Three Darts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWAGRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QZimDbNW0HWEF

It might limit the time you spend in the space?

You could do a through/in wall cable pass through/s. There are lots of options for diffrent types. some go through into the next room, some just go into the wall with the intention of running the cables through the wall to another receptacle that is placed lower or higher.

The hardest part will be getting the cables routed through the wall. You could use a wire fish to get them trough. I'd recommend running a cable pull (a pice of thin nylon rope), t hat can be left in place, in case you need to run additional wires latter on.

Get a patch panel something like this. Pull the cables off the 66 block that you want to convert from phone use to data/network use. Punch them down on this patch panel with a punchdown tool. Use factory-made ethernet patch cords to connect from the patch panel to your switch. You don't need crimpers.

I would attach the cable to the shelves/wall using these to make sure it is straight and tidy, then tape or otherwise attach the leftover cable to the bottom of the bottom shelves. It would really neaten it up a lot.

Good tools are easy to make. All you need is a file, a wire snake, and some templates.

You might be able to use "fish tape" to help route the new speaker wire with out having to cut into the rubber 'tube or remove the plugs'. (http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-EFT-21PN-25-Foot-Cable/dp/B000BP7WBO/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370922238&sr=8-2&keywords=fish+tape)

This. Fish tape will be a pain because it will get caught on every wood lath. If you can tie to an existing cable line do it. If not I would get rods like these.

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

If its an interior wall it may not have insulation. Then you can tie a heavy nut to a string and lower it down.

a punch down tool.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463364132&sr=8-4&keywords=punch+down+tool

When I was renting I used a lot of these with network cable that was also white so it didn't look terrible. If you nail them below the trim ling or at the bottom edge of the trim you won't have to putty/paint later. But powerline ethernet adapters are a pretty good option too.

Now moved into a new place and will be running Cat6 through the attic. If you have ceiling/floor access you could see if the landlord is interested in you wiring the place properly if you can make it look clean.

I was planning on using clips like these...I use these on my cable cords in 1-2 of my bedrooms... as long as I can find ones that are that large.

Leatherman - Charge TTI

Fluke Networks MS2-KIT

JackRapid Punchdown Tool

Fluke Networks 11293000 Pro-Tool Kit IS60 with Punch Down Tool or similiar

a set of crimpers (can't find a good set at the moment)

network ends, cable, wall plates etc.

My house was all Cat 3 6 home runs to the exterior. I replaced it all with solid core Cat 6 and added two runs for wireless access points in the ceiling. It was a PITA. I home ran the new stuff to a network enclosure box I added.

Cat 3 is junk I've seen it send 100Mb or more inside a house but if you ever have to troubleshoot issues your wires will always be the unknown.

As others have said you can never plan on just pulling new cat 6 behind the cat 3 it works like 10% of the time thanks to staples. So if you accept that you are cutting drywall and learning to fix those numerous holes then it's a much more realistic job. Basically everytime I got a snag I got the drywall saw out. Transitioning floors can be tricky but not impossible again cut the drywall.

Here are the best tools for the job. Flexibile long drill bit was a major cheat once I started using it. Fishing tape is a waste of the time except for conduit in my opinion use the fiberglass sticks I linked below.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Tool-EA56254-Installer-16-Inch/dp/B00DNEEYFW/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=drill+extension+wire&qid=1564611470&s=gateway&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LW4CFG/ref=psdc_6396129011_t3_B07F2LWVDV

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W/ref=sr_1_4?crid=12ICHMNHKXEGF&keywords=drywall+saw&qid=1564611505&s=gateway&sprefix=drywall+saw%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-4

Punching down is simple. Buy a Cat6 Patch Panel, and something like this for punching down. It's pretty straight forward just pick a standard (A or B on the jack/patch panel) and stick with it.

As far as your den - can you run a cable to the den from where you patch panel will be? You said there's already a cable there so if you have attic access or basement access and can follow the route of the other cable you could just use it as a pull string of sorts if it isn't stapled inside the wall. If not then wireless would be your option I'd think.

If the lag ONLY occurs when using wifi and never occurs while using ethernet (and you don't care about others' experiences), the best solution is to try to hard-wire as much as you can. Get tacks, run an ethernet cable (my walls are white so I use white) in a very tasteful way and make it look pretty.

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY/

with that said, yeah, in the best of cases your wifi is set up so that you're never more than ~10 meters from a wireless access point and you have both 2.4 and 5GHz bands to choose from (wireless-b/g/n all work with 2.4GHz, wireless-a/n/ac work with 5GHz). Wifi will never be as good as hard wired though.

I found this tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG that says it has a “BK blade.” From the pictures the BK looks exactly like a Krone blade to me though and after googling I wasn’t able to find any other tools with BK blades. Is it safe to assume it’s just Krone with a different name?

Ram-Pro 33-Feet Fiberglass Fish Tape Cable Rods, Electrical Wire Running Pull/Push Kit | Fishing Feeder Pole Sticks Snake Tool for Coaxial Wall Wiring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2LWVDV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jHxJDb97SA2XQ

A fiberglass fish can be useful

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TBOU8/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=DdRVS&pf_rd_r=C744MBRXWY16CSB4HHTV&pd_rd_i=B0026TBOU8&pd_rd_w=fGzeL&pd_rd_r=a9255a04-57b1-4447-9aa1-5bea4fee238a&ie=UTF8&qid=1550616178&sr=1

something a lot of people dont realize in new homes: All your phone jacks, that likely go to the same wiring panel as anything else would, most of the time those phone jacks were ran with Cat5e or Cat6. From there you just buy a 110 block punch down tool (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM), some keystones https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-Keystone-Punch-Down/dp/B004D5PFGW, and some plates, and start re-purposing those phone jacks you dont need.

Well the wire just need to be plugged into both end, how it get there does not matter to the wire but most people like to hide long wires.

The staple cannot go through the wire of course. I would use something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

Pulling ethernet cable will be easier without an RJ45 end on it, so you may invest in a crimper set, but you can buy pre-crimped cables and only cut one side off to save you from having to do both. Most all of the holes have likely already been drilled in your stud out to the doorbell location and have room in each hole to string a CAT cable through there. So then it comes down to trying to minimize the number of access holes you cut. You typically need one hole per stud bay, but sometimes you can get lucky and poke the cable through a stud bay and avoid needing another hole there, if the holes are inline and you just get lucky.

​

You might invest in a cheap phone borescope, and some fiberglass "fiberglass rods".

https://www.amazon.com/USB-Borescope-Endoscope-Android-Inspection/dp/B074KXB3JM/ref=zg_bs_8297406011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6QKMEX6B1NMWHDCTA1TQ

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Noodler-Complete-Fiberglass-Carrying/dp/B01LXCJSRP/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539730946&sr=8-4&keywords=glow+rod

Under my couches I used the little nail-in coax cable clips. Not these ones specifically, but ones like that.

The wooden frame of the couch is hidden from view, and a couple of small nails in the wood won't hurt anything. When I took one out, you could barely tell that it had ever been in there, and that was when I was under the couch.

Fish Tape can be very useful too:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_O1ttzb9JZR2EK

Thanks for the advice! Do keystones need to be rated exactly for Cat6a, or are they interchangable? I saw this 25-pack on Amazon for 29USD but they say they're for Cat6.

This is the punchdown tool I've got so I think I'm set there. I have ordinary wire strippers (very similar to these), would those work or would I have to buy something like this instead?

Here are some ways to do this:

Easiest/cheapest/laziest:

• Get some string and run it from the router to your unit in a path that is acceptable. Measure the string and buy an outdoor rated patch cable that's long enough. Run the cable and secure it with staples designed for holding wire(you want the low voltage wire staple gun/staples)
  
  Slightly better/more professional:
  
  
• Buy some bulk outdoor Cat6 cable
  
• Buy a pair of RJ45 surface mount boxes and a (punchdown tool)[https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa)
  
• Install a surface mount jack near the router, and one in your unit
  
• Run the bulk cable between the jacks and use the punchdown tool to terminate the ends. Be sure to follow the same color code on each end
  
• Use a (cable tester)[https://www.amazon.com/Optimal-Shop-Network-Tester-Ethernet/dp/B072LJYHKP/ref=sr_1_9] to make sure you have a good connection on every pair
  
• Plug a patch cable between the jack and the router, and another one between your jack and your access point
  
  Best/cleanest/most professional:
  
  
• Same as above, but run the wires inside the walls and use keystone jacks mounted inside gang boxes

>this patch panel from Tripp-Lite

You can absolutely do it yourself. You'll just need a bladed punch down tool like https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM to help with punching down the wires and chopping off the tips. It's tedious but not difficult. Other than that, follow the online recommendations for minimizing the untwist of the wire pairs, etc etc. It's all there online for you to read up on.

You also want to ensure the wiring scheme is consistent between the wall jacks and the patch panel, so you'll want to take off one of the wall plates and confirm if the wiring is 568B to the keystone jack like the patch panel you plan to use.

​

With all that said I would wait and see what Webpass recommends. They may have better ideas or do some of the work for you. You're certainly not the first person there who needed to redo that closet.

Here, have a wire pulling gun to cheer you up

If you plan to do wireless access points you can use a poe switch to power them. With a managed switch rebooting the access point is as easy as turning the port on and off from the switch management. Always run 2 cables at least to each location. You will always find more things to plug in.

You will need a punch down tool for the keystones. Also to make it correct you should have a patch panel at the switch location to terminate the cables. punch down tool
Patch Panel
Patch Panel mounting bracket

I see. So you are saying double sided tape didn't really work for you either? Maybe we would need to get something like this then

standards we follow for certified installs are in a crawlspace under a building if there is 500mm (around 2 foot i guess?) clearance between the ground and the floor we can use indoor cabling.

as someone who runs into old installs all the time i have seen indoor cabling used in nasty ass wet environments and still running after 10 years or so.

i would say in your case used cable clips like this
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY
on indoor cat6, if theres a bit of slack make a coil and cable tie it gently onto the supported cable.

Personally I'd just use a bunch of wire u-clips and put some spackle in the holes when I move out. It's a garage, that shouldn't be a big deal.

But if not, those command strips above are a good call.

And if you really don't want to attach anything to the ceiling, at least get one of these.

I use one of these for marking studs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IKK0OI/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_acpCzbE82Y34Q

Another comment said fiberglass fishing sticks, I use those extensively (cable installer) as well as using fish tape when you need something more flexible

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGZ9TM2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_vepCzbK7AKCQF

Drilling up from the bottom is probably best, just take your time to scout out power lines and studs so you don't hit anything unexpected. Something I do whenever I cut in new outlets is cut the drywall first and stick a light in the hole, drill (everything is attics in SW Florida) and see if I can see the light. It's better to drill a couple times than cut extra holes in the drywall.

Those little hook and nail things are great for running a cable line long the wall and keeping it in place as well...

https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

punch down tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Vastar-Network-Punch-Impact-Blades/dp/B01E58M5EG/ref=zg_bs_6396135011_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=86ZM49GHXCDNAYTMCYNQ

they are also spring loaded, like a nail punch. http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Impact-Blades/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1377055017&sr=8-3&keywords=punchdown+tool

Earlier this year I got myself the Ideal 30-495 FT-45 Feed-Thru Mod Plug crimp tool. Such a time saver.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VLDWS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_09rQDbJM27GKP

As an added bonus it fits perfectly in the slot for the punch-down tool in my Fluke Pro-Tool kit (I usually know which I'll need before going up the ladder)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E5R3HE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_PcsQDbMDSB16B

Klein Tools 56005 1/4-Inch Fish... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026TBOU8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes, I didn’t want to risk removing the boot. $10 was worth piece of mind.

There's some good instructional videos on Youtube if you search for it. My walls were a bit of a pain, but definitely well worth it in the end.

Here's my tool list that I'd recommend:

• Fish Tape
  
• Pull kit, this is optional
  
• Network Termination Kit
  
• Tape

That's way overkill for the home gamer. I have this one, and it works great.

If you can hide the cable the whole run under carpet. Getting past the archway will be easy with a fish tape https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56001-Strength-50-Foot/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480647857&sr=8-3&keywords=fish+tape With ribbon cable https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol-Internet-computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480648036&sr=8-3&keywords=flat+network+cable+100ft you wont even feel it under the carpet when standing on it.

could be something like this https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Cable-Clip-White-Pieces-200-961/dp/B000I97FHY

Sorry if I'm confusing you. I'm pretty jacked up on coffee right now haha.

So yes, tone each port on that panel before you remove the wires with this Tool. After you have each blue cat 5 labeled, not the grays, you can save the grays to patch between the switch and the new panel actually, you use your punch down to pull the wires out with the hook part. With everything out, repunch the wires into the patch panel, making sure the pattern matches whats on the wall plate. A punch down tool like this one is nice but not required, to get the wires into the terminals. These are nice because it takes off the excess wire, but a knife can do this fine as well.

As for your last question. I would run up the studs if you could. Then you have a nice plate at the end at the wall. You could even get a multi port jack so you can plug all your items into that and have those go into a separate vlan on the switch.

Ok so here's my list of stuff. Please tell me if I'm off on anything.

Speaker wire

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-G-2-bulk-speaker-cable/dp/B000F1X6GE

Subwoofer cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003P63SP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795218&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=subwoofer+cable

Fishing tool

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0026TBOU8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504795375&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=fish+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=415cJ-VZ12L&ref=plSrch

I've already got the rear speakers, subwoofer and mounts.

You may want to invest in a cheap punch down tool. It’ll make sure the wire is punched correctly and trim off the extra so it doesn’t get pulled out or cause a short somehow.

The jack appears to be wired correctly so as long as you can verify that you in fact have both ends of the wire I don’t see any reason why it shouldn’t work.

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Punch-Down-Blade/dp/B0072K1QHM

If you have ports around your house, I would start by buying a cable tracer and tester kit like this.

You appear to have an OnQ 1x12 telecom system in place in that cabinet which is for phones only and an OnQ network interface panel. So the OnQ 1x12 part isn't useful for you, but you could use the OnQ network interface part and a switch to make this work. You will need a 110 punch down tool will have to do some rewiring though.

Edit: changed comment after noticing it was an OnQ system.

I have friend that just ran a plain old Cat6 Cable straight from the room that the router was in throw a window up into to his bedroom. The trouble was over time the tiny hole the window screen became a massive tear. You could also get some coax clips and pin that cable along the ceiling. I've done that for my home theater system because there was too much insolation in the walls to fish the cable.

Some basic things to get:
>Wire crimper/stripper

>Fish tape

>Drywall or keyhole saw

Amazon has good prices on tools, boxes, and connection panels.

Automatic Wire Stripper

Plastic Trim Tools

Digital Multimeter

Wire Puller

So according to that picture, if they wired it according to the color coding, it's 568A, so if you were to wire it up yourself, make sure the OnQ side is 568A as well to save yourself 50% of the work. But all depends if they did the blue, orange, green, brown pairs accordingly, which I'd assume they would to make their life easier.

If you were to get an 8 port Cat5E patch panel, you're going to need a punchdown tool in order to get the wires hooked up to said patch panel. It isn't hard by any means, and there are tons of videos on Youtube about terminating ethernet cables into rj45 jacks as well as onto patch panels. It isn't rocket science by any means, and depending on your comfort level and if you want to buy what you'd need (watch youtube videos first, maybe you'll find terminating rj45's directly to plug into your switch to be your cup of tea), that might be a MUCH cheaper route than getting someone out there to do it. Maybe you have a friend that can assist, if they are into networking.

But absolutely, Cat5E is Cat5E, be it used for POTS (telephone) or home networking, it's the same media, just how it's terminated on both ends is what matters.

Here is an example of an 8 port Cat5E patch panel. It has color codings for 568A and 568B (in your pic above, 568A per the wall plate, if wired correctly):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LVZVUBO


Punch Down Tool w/ cutter (be careful when using that you pay attention which end the blade is so you don't cut the wrong side of the punch!):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4D

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58M5EG

This is just to hopefully give you an idea of what to search on Youtube for information. Glad to help, just research and research before tackling it yourself, but this isn't something that is going to be super difficult, but also don't want to see someone charge you $500 to do this job!

Good luck, and it's always fun to learn a new skill!

Cable Staples

I personally do not like that crimper. I have used the blue one (they are our shitty throw around tools at work), and I personally much prefer the orange one. I like the ratchet action better.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0008F5VA6/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1376270954&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX110_SY190
Try this:

If it is a non load bearing interior wall it is very possible there is no stud. Code was very different when that house was built. Studs will not always be 16 inches on center. At the same time, stud finders rarely work on plaster and lath walls.

Do this. Go to where you want the center of the TV mount to be. Drill 2, 1/4 inch holes or so into the wall at as steep of an angle as you can (60 degrees or so) and drill them in opposite directions. Then, get some wire fish fiberglass rods, and stick them in the wall going in both directions and see if you hit something. Click these links below

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-16-inch-x-33-ft-fiberglass-wire-running-kit-65326.html

http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Fiberglass-Wire-Pull-Rods/dp/B005LW4CFG

If you can slide the rods in and go in say 13 inches and you hit something, chances are that is your stud. From there mark the rod, pull it out, and then hold the rod flush against the wall and mark your stud. From there, get an 1/8 inch drill bit and drill a series of holes of where you think the stud is. And you can usually map it out that way.

I used to work for a high end AV/HIFI company and installed countless flat screens. That is how I always did it.