Best exterior car care products according to redditors

this one is a bit cheaper and has Prime

looks like the other one sold out anyway. these guys are about to get a crash course in the power of grassroot marketing.

This is what my husband uses to get sap off our cars, works beautifully.
MEGUIAR'S Smooth Surface Clay Kit - Safe and Easy Car Claying for Smooth as Glass Finish - G1016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X7KG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3tpqDbY6KDCB6

I can confirm, similar idea does work. I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC-201-BRUSH-MD-Medium-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_5_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500734602&sr=1-5&keywords=drill+brush

Spray on some cleaner, let sit 3-5 minutes, hit with drill brush, spray off. Fast, easy, spotless.

I got both from amazon. They work so well.

Chemical Guys CARPET BRUSH W/DRILL ATTACHMENT - MEDIUM DUTY - YELLOW https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_k3zKwCmEwanvm

ULTIMATE GROUT CLEANER: Best Grout Cleaner for Tile and Grout Cleaning, Acid-Free Safe Deep Cleaner & Stain Remover for Even the Dirtiest Grout, Best https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000Y232BI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_EIDdNrQ4jYuhS

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y

Like everyone's saying, they're a bad idea because they don't provide adequate lubrication and don't have the softness and physical structure that microfiber has to prevent scratches. It'll more than likely scratch the hell out of your paint.

 

A little more detail (heh) for how to do apartment washes:

Buy a gallon or two gallon pump sprayer and some Optimum No Rinse (ONR).

 

1. Dilute the ONR to clay dilution, then use the sprayer to blast off whatever you can off the car as well as give it a presoak.
   
   
2. Fill up your two buckets with grit guards (but not the cyclone ones) and give it a 2 bucket wash like normal. Replace the soap with Optimum No Rinse, and skip the rinsing step.
   
   
   EDIT: Use the sprayer to replace the hose, or else grab a Big Red Sponge(not generic sponges) and perform the BRS wash, or the Gary Dean method(substituting ONR for the products he uses). Thanks to /u/defected for pointing it out.
   
   
   
3. Dry it off with a soft microfiber towel and you're done! No need for rinsing because of the ONR, and you can get done with less than 5 gallons of water total.
   
   
4. Use your favorite wax, sealant or quick detailer to provide some protection!

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:

Equipment:

1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.
   
   
2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.
   
   
3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.
   
   
4. Spray bottle. 1-2.
   
   
5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.
   
   
6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.
   
   
7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.
   
   Washing:
   
   
8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.
   
   
9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.
   
   Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
   
   Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
   
   Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
   
   
10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.
    
    
11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.
    
    Sealant/wax:
    
    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
    
    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
    
    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
    
    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
    
    

ONR

2008 BMW Z4M Coupe

I can't believe I haven't posted in so long. This job is back from February.

I performed my Maintenance Package on this 2008 BMW Z4M for a client. This client emailed me about wanting a maintenance Detail on their vehicle. I informed them that this package is usually reserved for previous clients because of the cleanliness requirements (clayed vehicle). I figured worse case scenario I'd bring everything if it's too dirty and needs more stuff.

Products Used:

Wash

• Meg's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Pressure Washer Foam Cannon
  
• Ryobi Pressure Washer
  
• Microfiber Chenille microfiber mitt
  
  Wheels
  
  
• APC (All Purpose Cleaner)
  
• Lug Nut Brush
  
• Wheel Master Brushes
  
  Decontamination
  
  
• IronX
  
  Interior
  
  
• ONR diluted for quick detailer
  
• Costco microfibers
  
• Boars hair brush
  
  Engine Bay
  
  
• ONR diluted for quick detailer
  
• Black microfibers from /u/theragcompany
  
• Boars hair brush
  
• 303 Protectant
  
  Notes
  
  This was an eye opening experience for me about cleaning a clean car. I learned that it's difficult to make a clean car even cleaner and really focuses you as a detailer to focus on details more than the big picture.
  
  
  Price: $155
  
  Time: 3.5 Hours
  
  Thank you for your business!

Foam Cannon

The key that I have found after a bit of use is hot, hot, HOT water in the bottle with the soap! My kitchen has an instant boiling water faucet and that does the trick.

I used this, its nice.

http://smile.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC201BRUSHMD-Medium-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457942084&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+brush

Iron x - http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407107216&sr=8-1&keywords=iron+x

What has happened is that the minerals from the water have etched their way into the paint. The best way to remove that is with a very light polish that will clean the paint and completely even out the surface using a very light abraisive compound. Using a machine polisher is the most effective way of doing the job.

Here's the recommended tools, they aren't too expensive:

Porter Cable 7424xp polishing kit: https://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-buffer-value-kit.html

Meguiar's m205 (their lightest polish): https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-205-polish-8oz.html

Clay bar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

Wax, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax, or other kind of sealant (perhaps Chemical Guy's Jet Seal). And a decent set of microfiber towels.

Wash the car, then use the clay bar to pick up the rest of the contaminants sticking to the paint. Then use the Porter Cable DA polisher. Depending on what condition the paint is determines which pad you need. The finishing pad might be enough to handle light contaminants, but if you need to step up to the cutting pad it is safe to do so. Same for the polishing compound, if m205 isn't enough, then step up the aggressiveness to Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, which is more abraisive. Be aware, after the pad is wet and saturated with polish it won't do any more work, and you'll have to take time to clean the pad with a detergent and water, so its advisable to get a stack of Lake Country green pads for doing a large job.

Here's the polishing tutorial by Mike Phillips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUHRnHsSXZU

I think it’s a pretty affordable way to maintain your car. I use the Optimum ONR - No Rinse Wash
And some basic supplies

• Wash mit
  
• microfiber towels for drying
  
• 2 buckets of water (one for the solution the other to rinse out the mit)
  
  I can provide a full list of anyone interested.
  
  Tons of videos online to help you along.

Some say even touchless is dangerous (due to grit being recycled through). I either do two bucket or use Wash Wax All with microfiber cloths (1 to apply and 1 to dry). I keep a kit in the well in the trunk particularly for wiping bugs off.

Clay bar http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002U2V1Y?pc_redir=1407450846&robot_redir=1

This was my first attempt at engine detailing and I think it went pretty well! I covered some of the electrical components (alternator, battery terminals, etc) and proceeded with the typical spray down of water, followed by a good misting of APC, followed by agitation with a Solo Horton brush, and rounded out with another misting of water. I finished the process by drying the engine bay with a leaf blower and a coating of 303 Aerospace Protectant. Looks good to me!


Products Used:

• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 dilution)
  
• 303 Aerospace Protectant
  
• Solo Horton #10 Brush
  

Link for anyone looking. Can confirm this stuff is awesome. I like that it allows me to wash my car in the garage out of the sun. It can also be mixed stronger to make a quick detailer.

https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO?sa-no-redirect=1

I haven't tried it but have been considering it. Basically it means in the winter you can wash your car safely ensconced in your garage with no hose. You mix it up, wet some towels or wash mitt, scrub the car and then just dry it with microfiber towels. Also useful for apartment dwellers with no hose access. You would probably only want to use it on a dusty / slightly dirty car though.

Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...

​

Charging

• Wall Connector $500. Not necessary but I'd recommend biting the bullet before taking delivery, so you can keep the mobile charger in the car. The electrical work took 2 hours of time, at $130/hr. I highly recommend installing a dedicated 60-amp breaker and an efficient gauge wire which will give you 45 mi/hr of charge.
  
• Charging Adapters $35. Car comes with the 5-15 and 14-50. I strongly recommend buying the 5-20. If you plan to charge at someone else's house on a roadtrip, ask them to send you a picture of their dryer plug. So far, I've needed the 10-30 and 14-30.
  
• NEMA 5-15P to 5-20R Adapter $20. Strongly recommended in combo with Tesla's 5-20 adapter to "cheat" a 16-amp charge (33% faster charging). Must-watch this video, and must-read here, here, here, and here.
  
  Tesla OEM
  
  
• Cargo Mats for Frunk & Trunk $70 & $130. Must-have some sort of trunk mat, since the trunk material is generally poor quality for heavy use.
  
• Front Sunshade $75. Living in Florida, this is a must-have if you dont plan on tinting the top glass panel. The "front" is acutally the middle of the three glass panels, not the windshield.
  
• Paint Repair Kit $55. Nice to have so you're ready for rock chips. So far I've had one that made it through the black paint and silver primer.
  
  Detailing
  
  
• Aero Cosmetics Complete Car Kit $40. Highly recommended. Pricey but saves time for amazing results. Cheaper and better quality than CarGuys products. I liked it so much that I ended up buying this also.
  
• Invisible Glass Spray Cleaner $4. Recommended that you have some glass cleaner that's not Windex. This brand is one of the best.
  
• Wash Mitt 2-pack $16. Highly recommended compared to a wet rag.
  
• Tire and Wheel Brush $8. It's important to segregate parts you use on wheels from parts you use on paint. This product is solid.
  
• Grit Guard $8. Totally optional. Helps separate dirt in the bucket when cleaning. You'll see a difference in the water.
  
  Third-Party
  
  
• Tough-Pro Interior Mats $80. My opinion is that all-weather mats are a must-have. The stock mats are crappy, and all-weather mats make cleaning easier. These are cheaper than Tesla's all-weather mats. I'm happy with them but I'd buy the OEM Tesla ones if I could do it again.
  
• Upgraded White LED Lights $13-$77. Must-have for the trunk. Optional for others. I replaced all 7 non-footwell. Easy install with a credit card. As a bonus, I have one left over, so PM me if you want it.
  
• Kenriko Matte Wrap for Center Console $30. Must-have. Watch his install videos first. Customer service is excellent if you screw up the install like I did. The matte black matches the black leather interior perfectly. I'm sure the matte white is nice too.
  
• Pet Cover for Trunk $45. I couldn't find anything better for driving my dogs, so I use this one with the back seats down, along with Tesla's rubber trunk mat. I'd say my setup prevents 90% of dog wear, and keeps any dog smell to a minimum.
  
• Nomad Wireless Charger $130. Nice to have. Not available until end of November, but battery is integrated unlike the comeptitor's.
  
• Rubber Cupholder Liners $25. Optional, helps with cleaning.
  
• Drop Stop $20. Optional, makes life easier.
  
• Air Compressor $25. Optional but recommended. Look for one with automatic shutoff.
  
• Tire Plug Kit $8. If you're handy, this is a cheap solution to be ready for a flat. If you're not handy, get Tesla's tire repair kit.
  
• Card Holder $5. Optional. Keep in your center console so valet has a way to hang your card key.

Do you have a garage? If so, I highly recommend Wash Wax All as a waterless wash that you can do inside. That’s all I’ve been using for 3 months and loving it.

First of all, do NOT submerge the hard drive or even soak it because it is not airtight or watertight but has some tiny holes that can let in liquids. Keep the hard drive and any optical drives dry, and just wipe off their exteriors with a damp paper towel.

To clean the case and electronics, you can use
aerosol electronic parts cleaner that's rated as safe for all plastics, something like THIS (available at hardware stores, auto parts stores, and even Walmart). Do not use other chemicals, like brake parts cleaner, which can dissolve plastics. Hold circuit boards and even the case at slight angles so the liquid will run off and not pool. Spray into the sockets -- DIMMs, PCI-E, USB. Let everything dry very, very thoroughly before applying power again, at least 24 hours. A car parked in the sun with the windows only slightly opened can bake everything at over 100-120 degrees F. Take precautions against generating static electricity, i.e., put the motherboard into a metallic bag (not on it -- those bags are usually anti-static only inside), but to let moisture escape, don't seal it.

Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo

Chenille Wash Mitt

Turtle Wax Seal n Shine

Someone bought these polishing sheets on Amazon and posted the results. Looked good as new. I bought them also.....they are sitting on my counter.

Cape Cod® Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mzSrybEFT4MJX

It's hard to tell from the pictures but it looked dirty and scratched to begin with, and now it just looks scratched and hazy.

What products did you use?

I use this

Soap

Interior Cleaner

Foam Cannon

Scratch Free Wash Mitt

I'm really enjoying what chemical guys has to offer in their cleaning line up. I'm going to pick up hydro charge from them soon. It's a spray on ceramic coating.

The chamois and quick detailer help to remove grime, oil spots or whatever they are. It's very apparent on a white car. but glad I can actually see it too remove it versus another color car.

​

cc: u/simply_lime

What do you guys think of Mother's Gold? Specifically this package.

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

You fix this with a clay bar. It removes overspray. I oversprayed two vehicles - oops - and half an hour with a clay bar from McGuire's got it cleanly off. It's about $20. "Totalled", my effing ass.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG

I like automatic watches. I've also got a wife, child, and house to pay for. I also love to beat the shit out of my stuff because it just sort of happens.


Enter the SNK803. Automatic. Tough. Most importantly, easily replaced if I destroy it. But, I don't like the matte finish of the case. I DID have a dremel tool. Do I have an autozone? Yes I do. Do they carry mother's mag & aluminum polish? Every day. So I polished it up. Not mirror, a shiny satin finish. But now I need a quality strap. So I ordered a John Allen Woodward Alligator for $1,100...NO! What goes best with a satin finish and a beige face? Simple leather! This is a Ritche Genuine Leather NATO strap for a timex weekender. Happens to come in 18mm. And you know it's high quality leather. How? Says so. Genuine is right in the name. Only the best straps come WITH a tool to remove the pins.


Now I've got a watch that looks great, keeps great time, is a tiny mechanical wonder, and looks just as good at work as it does hiking. With a grand total of maybe $60 and an hour of work in it.

Yes, plenty of people including myself have done it. Purchase these and just polish them off. Your phone will end up actually looking better than new.

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

Be carefully to just polish the metal and not the glass. I used painters tape to mask off those areas. Also try and steer clear of getting the polish into ports and holes. This works for fine scratches like from case rubbing and being in pockets with abrasive debris etc , these will not work for deep scratches from dropping it etc.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

This
then this then this

I used Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit (I did waterless) from Amazon and then CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant, also waterless.

I copied the links into this post, hopefully they work.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GN0rDb4FJCA5N

CarGuys Hybrid Wax Sealant - Most Advanced Top Coat Polish and Sealer on the Market - Infused with Liquid Carnauba for a Deep Hydrophobic Shine on All Types of Surfaces - 18 Ounce Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y5KQSKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZO0rDbWMKN0YR

I clean my own jewelry with this polish and double layer cloths.

I got an heirloom platinum ring resized at Symmetry three years ago. They were honest with me about time frame and gave me a discount in the end. I would recommend them to anyone based on my experience, though I know others may not have had the same.

Clay bar it, go to walmart or your auto store and get this then get a decent pack of microfiber towels and a good wax. (Be prepared to spend an entire day detailing if you go this route)

Because these are synthetics, you can use a non-rise all-purpose cleaner like this one.

Also, I think durability is why we don't have the perforated, vented seats anymore.

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_F6w0AbEJ739V8

You could try something like this. I've used this a number of times on various things and while it does require some elbow grease, I've successfully satisfied my inner anal tendencies.

Edit: I know nothing of regulations, so not sure if this will help. Thought maybe you were concerned about how it looked.

not with that exposed metal screw/washer it wont

instead try:-
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC-201-BRUSH-MD-Medium-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_5_s_it?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1500734602&sr=1-5&

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

It's not very likely that it's pewter. Pewter contains lead that leaches into food and is not used much anymore.

That said, does need a polish, as in removing scratches or is it just discoloration and dirt? Polishing would require proper polishing compounds and wheels. If you want to clean it up try "Eagle one Never Dull". It's a wadding that comes in a tin and it does a surprising good job at tarnish, mineral stains, and overall cleaning without scratching. That would probably be my first stop. It is a bit stinky but works well.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-E301131001-Original-Nevr-Dull/dp/B000CNBI1A

This is what I've been using for a few years. I've used it safely on vintage and modern pens, of course never using it on things like hard rubber pens. Only need to use a very small amount of product, and you can probably get by with the least aggressive polish (#2) for these scratches. Bonus points for trying it out on an old beat-up pen or other plastic object before using on your good pen.

Here's something to remove the scratches from that clear piece. Also supposedly works for soft top windows.

here

Wash: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Hyper-Wash-Foaming-Leaves-D11001/dp/B0006SH4IM

Clay: https://smile.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G

Decontamination: https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-x-cleaner.html

DA: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html

Polish: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI

Compound: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI

Pads: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004104678/ref=twister_B00NN89SGI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Coating and Sealant: https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-uk-edition.html

Cargo Bull Rings for the Bed

Ratchet Straps

Mult-gift set of a grit guard, large waffle-weave micofiber towel, and 1) some 2) good 3) soap

Stubby antenna because the stock one makes the truck look like an RC car

An actual RC Colorado ZR2

You can wash it yourself using one 2 gallon bucket with 2 ounces of optimum no rinse and shine and some microfiber towels. Much cheaper, easy to do in a parking lot and environmentally friendly.

Yeah man, just get this soap:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687742&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00BFUG3EG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1FGAFWY38XX36YQ8464A

I have that for my car.. Get a bucket (or two buckets if you want to use the two-bucket system), a microfiber mitt and a towel, and go to town out on the sidewalk. Soap is biodegradable if any run off happens.

I got the gallon bottle of soap, and it's lasted me for over 2 years and I'm only about a third of the way through it. All it takes is a cap full for every gallon or two.

I wash/wax mine every weekend with the Aero waterless solution.

2 buckets with grit guards are way too expensive, that's at least $40! Pair that with 2 reusable quality mitts at $30, you're looking at $70 wasted away.

SCREW THAT! Let me break out my $150 pressure washer, my $20 foam lance and $75 for 10 wash mitts It's so much better to do it my way and I save so much in product! /s

WARNING: The post above is full of referral links.

Here's a copy with all of OP's referral links removed:

CART

• WEN 7300 Utility Cart
  
• Tornado Hooks of Various Sizes
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Basic Wood Screws
  
  
  PRODUCTS
  
  
• CG Best Selling Products Kit
  
• CG Honey Dew Snow Foam
  
• CG Butter Wet Wax
  
• CG Diablo Wheel Gel
  
• CG V7 Hybrid Quick Detailer
  
• CG Jet Seal
  
• CG VRP Dressing
  
• CG Bug and Tar Remover
  
• CG Glossworkx Glaze
  
• CarPro Iron X
  
• Shine Society Glass Cleaner
  
• Black Mamba Black Gloves
  
• Zwipes Waffle Weave Towel
  
• 50 Pack of Microfiber Towels
  
• Detailers Brush
  
• Wheel Brush
  
• Viking Wheel Brush
  
  EQUIPMENT
  
  
• Sun Joe SPX3000 Pressure Washer
  
• Sun Joe Pressure Washer Extension Cord
  
• MATCC Snow Foamer
  
• Extension Cord 50ft
  
• TORQ Orbital Polisher
  
  
  

Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.

2 buckets from Home Depot - $6

2 Grit Guards - $18

Megs Gold Class Soap - $9

Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11

einszett Cockpit Premium - $10

Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4

Chemical Guy's APC - $10

Optibond Tire Gel - $11


Grand Total of $109

There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

Clay bar also works without damaging paint: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487455346&sr=1-4&keywords=clay+bar

certainly.

1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG
   
   
2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?th=1 use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.
   
   
3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GAP-106-16-Polish-Sealant/dp/B004LPAP2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936548&sr=1-10&keywords=car+polish
   
   
4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936678&sr=1-4&keywords=car+wax
   
   
5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny
   
   
6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray
   
   also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
   

1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.

2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.

3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra

4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit

5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.

6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.

I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.

2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash

• 5 gallon bucket of water (w/grit guard)
  
  
• 5 gallon bucket premixed soap and grit guard
  
  
  • Lids for transportation
    
    
• Head down to the local self service wash. The kind with the foamy brush and pressure washer. (ONLY THERE FOR THE WATER)
  
  
• I follow 2 Bucket method above but my process is a bit different since I'm paying for the water.
  
  
  • Clean wheels/wheel wells, exhaust tips, rinse, wet car and remove built up debris/bugs with remaining time
    
    
  • Clean roof, windows, hood, front, rinse
    
    
  • Clean driver side (not bottom), back, passenger side (not bottom), go back and clean bottom of sides, rinse
    
    
    • If time remaining, switch to low pressure for final rinse
      
      
• Dry car and head home!
  
  My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
  
  I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
  
  The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.

What is your opinion of Meguiar's products?

I've been using their shampoo and quick detailer on my white car since I got it about 4 months ago. I don't know much about auto detailing, but I planned on using those two to keep the car clean until I learn more or decide to take it to a professional detailer.

Nevr-dull works great for this. Also available at local stores, like Autozone, etc.

lol why would you use a toothbrush unless you're a masochist!?

You can buy brushes that are like $6-$11 each, with varying bristle stiffness, and they last years.

I bought 3 Mothers brushes like 3 years ago and I'm still using them.

wheel contour brush. Hard bristles, great for tires and rim face.

long handle brush. Medium bristles, great for wheel wells and your wheel's barrel.

Wheel brush. a bonus brush if your feeling a bit extra. Has really soft bristles. Really gets a great lather going on your wheels.

Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.

clay bar

everything clay bar, compound, and polish

As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.

Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.

If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.

Not at all.

I have two lights mounted this way. The one that's a little further forward is getting it's finish blasted off, and the one that's a little further back has a small piece of the front lens sanded down. They both work perfectly well and the lenses are easy to clean with some plastic polish.

Edit:

Here's the finish wear on my 7.5" SBR: http://i.imgur.com/lft2z9A.jpg

Here's the lens wear on my 11.5" SBR: http://i.imgur.com/04HNaZm.jpg. I've rotated it to even it out a bit.

Instead of sanding first off, I would recommend you try something like Novus Plastic Polish. I ended up picking it up after having issues clearing up my headlights after sanding. I've used it to remove oxidation on another friend's TC with really good results.

Before

After

WTB Spring

Mask of the trim so you don't polish off the gold (or whatever) plating, and use Novus Plastic Polish

Replied to a similar post recently:

> I did this to a windshield once. Researching fix options was how I learned this technique. Use Micro-mesh sanding pads in this order:

• 3200 grit - horizontal strokes
  
• 3600 - vertical strokes
  
• 4000 - horizontal
  
• 6000 - vertical
  
• 8000 - horizontal
  
• 12000 - vertical
  
  > That should get it transparent, and looking close to glass. Sometimes I then polish with Novus if needed.

Had a pretty bad scratch on one of my Samsung Odyssey lenses, and went through a few suggested solutions. Ended up using this to fix it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UD0GIG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf.

Use a microfiber cloth (not the ones that come with the kit), and start with the #2 polish, then go to #1. Read the directions too :)

It is one of these. I have them on S&S for this very purpose. Also works great for cleaning grout in the bathroom or on floors.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/

How To: Decontaminate your paint & wheels

1. Gather your supplies. I have used a combination of a paint safe iron dissolving product, a clay bar, and a Nanoskin Sponge (picture 1)
   
2. WARNING: If you are using an iron dissolving product, DO NOT have your car parked in the sun. Remember the flash point with chemicals? You do not want something strong enough to dissolve metal particles drying on your paint. Liberally spray the product on your paint, focus on the areas around the wheels as obviously kick up crap from the roads (picture 2).
   
3. You should see a color change happening just as if you had sprayed the product on your wheels. Note: Because of the dark color of my car, I couldn’t get the camera to capture any color change efficiently. Dwell time shouldn’t really last longer than 5 minutes or so.
   
4. Hose down the car. Yes, if you’re doing this step you’ll have to dry the car again. But you know how to do it now, so it shouldn’t be too bad!
   
5. I like to clay bar the wheels next. I’m using an old piece of clay, and seeing as my wheels are pretty beat up already, I don’t really care. However, a new(er) piece of clay is always recommended. Examine the wheels. See any bits of tar or brake dust that didn’t come off from washing? (picture 4)
   
6. Lube up the wheels using the product of your choice. For the wheels, I am using QD strength ONR. One the paint, I like to use the leftover soap from the wash bucket during the 2 bucket wash. Note: water is NOT an adequate lube for clay. Using back and forth motions, not circles, rub the clay on the wheels using medium pressure (picture 5).
   
7. Examine to see if the problem area has been resolved (picture 6).
   
8. Continue onto the rest of the wheels (picture 7).
   
9. When clay becomes too dirty, fold and kneed it up until you can longer see the dirt accumulated (picture 8).
   
10. When you can longer find a clean side, it is time to toss the clay (picture 9).
    
11. If you drop clay, it’s time to toss it. This sucks, especially when you have just broken off a new piece to use. Clay picks up anything it touches, dropping it on the ground renders it useless (picture 10).
    
12. NanoSkin products act the same way as clay. However, they require no refolding, last longer, and if you drop them you can just wash them off. The only real downside is that they tend to be a little more expensive, but are totally worth it in my experience. The sponge (which I am using) is the cheapest option. They also offer mitts, towels, and pads for a DA.
    
13. Dunk the sponge in the wash bucket (picture 13).
    
14. Using back and forth and up and down motions, ‘clay’ the paint (picture 14). Again, use medium pressure. No need to ‘grind’ the sponge into the paint. Note: when using soap as clay lube, I like to hose down the panel first again to give the soap extra lubrication. I know I know, you just hosed down the car and dried it again. It really isn’t so bad. It seems like a lot of steps backward, but trust me, you’re moving forward!
    
15. Oh no! You dropped your sponge! (picture 15)
    
16. No worries, hose it off and you’re good! (picture 16)
    
17. I like to work in half panels at a time, and remember to start from the roof down. This way when you rinse off the car again, you’re working from the top down and not going back and forth.
    
18. I will be tackling window decontamination in the Sealing ‘How to’.
    Note: When using a clay bar and/or sponge, you will feel the contaminants being picked up. When running over the paint or wheels, you’ll feel little bumps. Keep the clay/sponge motion going and the bumps should go away. It’ll start to feel smooth. To be 100% sure you’ve gotten everything up, place your hand in a plastic sandwich baggy and run your hand over the paint. Because of the ‘finer’ surface area of the bag, you’ll feel what you missed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml434m7ILNA Here is a video of Mike Phillips explaining it.
    
    Congrats! Your car should be contaminant free and ready to be polished!
    
    
    Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller
    
    The Mother's & Meguiar's Clay Bar Kits can be found over the counter for about $15-20.
    
    NanoSkin Fine Grade Sponge
    
    Optimum No Rinse
    
    CG Citrus Wash & Gloss

i use Amazon.com: Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge and as lube some shampoo diluted in water. does an amazing job and quite quick!

1. Hand wash with a quality microfiber mitt using Optimum No Rinse Wash.
   
   
2. Dry with quality microfiber towels using a small amount of Opti-Seal as a drying aid. (I cheat and use an absorber shammy instead of microfiber towels, but technically they can cause microabrasions.)
   
   
3. Clean your wheels and shine tires however you want.
   
   I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine - https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/

And here is a how to video - https://youtu.be/Pwki2c21pBw

Ditch the Shamois and get a microfiber drying towel, like a waffle weave texture. Huge difference.

For hard water, try adding a cap full of Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine to your bucket of soap. If helps soften the water. https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/

When you dry, add a single spray of a quick detailer or instant wax to each panel, and use that as a drying aid. Helps a lot.

I'd also recommend to dry as much as you can first with an air compressor or leaf blower, just remove as much water as possible first before you get it with a towel.

Optimum No Rinse

Check out Optimum No Rinse. As long as you don't have caked on dirt it'll really serve you well with keeping the exterior clean.

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

I've never heard of ONR, is this the kind of thing you use?

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

Would you recommend it? Thanks!

OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.

First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).

You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.

As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.

Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.

As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).

Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.

I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!

​

You can wash anywhere. Try this. It's the best car wash I've ever used and requires no water.

Biggest difference between the SPX3000 and SPX4000 is the form factor. The SPX4000 has a sort of frame around it, making it more stable than the SPX3000. Other minor differences include two detergent tanks (on the SPX3000) versus one and the SPX4000 has two different pressure settings (1450 PSI and 2030 PSI). I personally don't really need the detergent tank and rarely use the lower pressure setting, but I suppose it is nice to have when needed. Other than those three minor differences, the units are identical (motor, fittings, etc all the same). I'd personally recommend the SPX4000 just for the more stable base.

I use this foam cannon with my SPX4000 and have no complaints. This foam cannon also gets great reviews and is slightly cheaper.

I'd also highly recommend getting the hose extension. You don't need any extra fittings to connect it and it gives you 25 more feet to work with.

This is the best product I've used for cleaning brake dust from wheels.

Nanoskin Fine Grade Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_6.eWub0G5AWXB Sorry for long link on mobile. I only use these now. I do think you need to use more lube with these then normal clay but it last longer. If you drop it just rinse it thoroughly and ready to go again.

I use the two bucket method and Optimum No-Rinse(ONR). It does a fantastic job, doesn't scratch, doesn't pull the wax off.

Of course, if your car is really gritty make sure to go and power-wash it at Lynn's first. Just go in, and do a quick and dirty there for $5 and then finish up at home with ONR and take your time.

Make sure you have a grit guard installed in your rinse bucket and use a good quality wash mitt and plenty of microfiber towels.

Optimum No Rinse is highly recommended. Use 4 capfuls in about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon bucket, wash mitt, and drying towels. Takes about 15-30 minutes to do an average sized car.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNOrxWHr32Y

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.

Used this wash and wax from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have this, which you can use with this stuff or any other ONR product really and keep them with you. Just spray it on, let sit for a few seconds, and use the bug sponge to wipe off. Should come off easy.

Foam Cannon

https://www.amazon.com/MATCC-Adjustable-Connector-Blaster-Pressure/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539483500&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=matcc&dpPl=1&dpID=51ULS8z5N0L&ref=plSrch

I use the more expensive version of this, looks the same and reviews say it performs well. Just need a pressure washer and the correct soap.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ROB7yb3TKMYQ2

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AY3oDb2RBHAN3

Mothers 07251 NuLens Headlight Renewal Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GZLMEPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2Y3oDbMHSKTCV

simichrome .

Used this for years on my motorcycle chrome. Works awesome, and one tube lasts forever, as you only use a tiny bit.

I've used this stuff in the past with great results:

https://smile.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E

It's hard to tell how bad it is from those pictures. I would start by getting the meguiars clay kit. Here is a video showing how.

Not op but I’d guess mothers mag and aluminum polish. Stuff is awesome

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KQ7rDb8SDD7MD

FWIW: I bought one of these and I love it. You could establish a new edge on the most coarse stone, and refine it with the other two. As an alternative to finer stones, use automotive-grade sandpapers to get it up to 2500-3000 grit. For putting the final edge on it, I have a strop made from an old leather belt that I cover with a small amount of Mother's Mag. Honestly, though, you could stop at the fine stone on that tri-hone and be all set.

Hope this helps!

Followed this tutorial.

Got everything from amazon. Went with this dremel since it came with the polish wheels. This add-on item polish.
And these for safety. (And to meet the minimum for the add-on item.)

With 0 dremel experience, it was still easy. Didn't even mess up the glass, but I'd already upgraded mine to sapphire so I can only speak for that.

• Menzerna Power Lock - $21.72
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - $7.10
  
• CG InnerClean - $11.99
  
• RagCompany Towel - $20.00
  
• Meg's Gold Class Car Wash - $8.99
  
• Meg's Wash Mitt - $4.99
  
  Total: $74.79
  
  This kills the budget:
  
  
• Harbor Freight DA - $64.99
  
  __
  You could get away with using car wash soap for cleaning the wheels as long as your wheels aren't terrible. There's no point in getting a polisher if your paint is fine. You could get a wax instead of a sealant and that could save you money.

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

Mine were just as bad and used this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A

Takes about 10 minutes and I was able to get my shinny back

They are surprisingly easy to repolish.

I use this and the watch looks brand new when I'm done. Removes scuffs as well!!!

Cape Cod Polish

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

it’s essentially a micro abrasive compound, which is used to buff out scratches, hazing and whatnot. it needs to be used after wet sanding to get rid of the hazing left behind from the 3000 grit. then you polish after the compound to get an extremely clean, haze-free result. it’s best to use a buffer to apply them but can also be done by simply rubbing with a microfiber pad.

basically you can get all of these products in a simple 3m headlight restoration kit instead of buying a bigger amounts of each separately. if you only need to hit the two spots left from removing your mudguards, i’d suggest just getting a kit instead:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

There are a few brands of plastic polish on the market. Another thing that people recommend is a vigorous rubbing with toothpaste.

http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Scratches-From-Plastic-Lens-Glasses

A plastic polish called Novus (Novis?) #2 and/or #3 is supposed to work well on acrylic pens. It's what Franklin Christoph recommends on their pens fwiw.

Edit: Here it is

Don't recommend using RainX on your front windshield - it makes the wipers squeak something fierce.

Use a wash mitt to reduce chance of scratching.

Quick dry electronic cleaner is what worked for me where compressed air didn't. Applied basically the same way, flipping up the sheath on the analog stick and applying a bit with the included straw.

Spray it with a small squirt of QD Electronics cleaner. It's safe and designed for electrical components and you can buy it just about anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

As long as it doesn't have a screen on it, a can of this will work quite well, it's like keyboard air but better because it's also a solvent (but doesn't dissolve plastic like Brakleen). Don't use it near backlit screens though, it dissolves the glue holding them together and you'll never quite get it looking right again.

Dust gets trapped under the analog stick causing it to never properly reset to neutral when you let go. You can fix it with electronic cleaner (use a toothpick or something to lift up the rubber flap under the analog stick to expose the internals and spray).

This is great advice. The one step I'd add would be, if at all possible, to use a purpose made contact/PCB cleaning spray on the PCB before reassembly. This will safely and effectively remove any conductive deposits left from the water and drive out any remaining moisture. You may find after disassembly that the rubber membrane kept any crap from getting on the PCB, in which case you might be ok without, but you've gotten this far so....

It's not terribly expensive. Amazon is a good example. You can find the same kind of thing locally at a car parts place or maybe even a radioshack.

Never-Dull

this works wonders for the SS version but if it's aluminum you're out of luck http://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

Hey guys, so idiot me managed to bang my watch into a table a cause it to dinged up. Luckily I found this cloth and after an hour of buffing it, the dent is almost completely gone. Really surprised it worked as I was looking at changing the bezel insert.

Thought I’d share in case anyone else has dents or scratches they’d like to remove.

Cape Cod Polish Co Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Uke1CbE1Q2PSC

IF I FITS I SITS

This one is always my favorite!!

My add-on and this

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)


WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)

Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

The reviews on this are all over the map, but I love it. Once you spray it on it sticks to the rim and eats away at the chain lube, mud, and other road grossness that accumulates on your wheels. Get a nice solid brush to help reach into the crevices and enjoy your showroom wheels.

I've had good success with this stuff when I've gotten paint scuffs. Should be able to get most of it off with that, and depending on how badly you rubbed against it, some touch up paint might be needed.

If you have enough coat built up, sand with 400, 800, and maybe 1500. Then use a buffing compound with some water and a pad on a ROS sander. If that doesn't add a glossy finish...Idk what will.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

You want this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

brosader's idea isn't a bad one either. Admit you have sinned and tarnished their otherwise beautiful product. Beg for forgiveness. You may just end up with a sacrificial pane to practice lasercutting on.

A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.

To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU to clean up after the last coat.

Glad to answer any other questions

You might try Novus on the scratches, this stuff rocks:

NOVUS 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9jeUAbGMRQAFR

Link to make a replacement 67.5V "B" battery from 9V batteries.

I have a hi-def image of the label of an Eveready #455 (45V) B battery if you want it. Actual size, so you can cut the cardboard holder a *bit* smaller, then wrap a print of the image onto the cardboard. Use Photoshop or another paint program to change the numbers.

Plastic polish would remove the oxidation from the case. Get the Novus kit.

I looked around and found some plastic / acrylic cleaner that's suppose to work well with case windows.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002UCYRZU

I ordered some and should have it Friday. I'll let you know how it turns out!

An air compressor works great for cleaning the dust out. Check out the little electric blowers if you don't have a full-on compressor. I've been using one for over 5 years now and it works great.

For cleaning the exterior, Novus makes great plastic cleaning products.

My local shop quoted me $300 to fix the paint and $250 to replace the plastic piece. I told them it was a lease and surprisingly they told me I should wait until I am about to turn the car in since more damage will happen. I also have $5K of lease damage insurance so even if I get dinged (ha!) for this, it will be covered by that insurance.

Being a perfectionist, I still wanted to clean things up so I turned to Amazon and bought about $40 worth of supplies:

• ACDelco WA636R Touchup Paint
  
• 1.5mm Touchup Brushes
  
• Novus 2oz Plastic Polish Kit
  
• Novus Polish Mate
  
• Meguiars ScratchX 2.0
  
  I was able to fix the damage to the plastic piece entirely, it looks as good as new. I used an ample amount of Novus 2 and 3. I wasn't expecting Novus to be able to tackle such a big scratch and I was just hoping to get rid of some minor scuffs but I was pleasantly surprised, there is a slight dip in the plastic that is visible if you are about 3 inches away and looking from an extreme angle but I don't even feel a bump anymore.
  
  I also did a few more rounds of Scratch X on the paint scratch and got rid of about 50% of it, I painted the deep chip but I didn't want to risk making it worse so it's still visible from about a foot away. I'm going to practice on another car with some filler and see if I can master the art of filling in deep chips and painting them but for now the metal under the chip is safe from rust.

Waxing is simple. There are a ton of products these days that won't require much work to keep your car protected. The easiest are the spray waxes. Use after you wash once a month(or more) and you'll be nice an protected. If you need some paint correction (i.e. polishing) and you aren't comfortable with it, you will have to spend a couple hundred if you want someone to do a good job and not actually damage the paint. Be careful of the "FUll Detail" for under $100 guys. If correction is what you need, I can suggest Odds and Ends Detailing in Sterling. If that is too far out from where you are, you might want to give them a call and ask if they can recommend someone closer. The owner is a very nice guy.

​

Some general tips on keeping your car looking good.

1. Start with clean paint. Wash. At minimum claybar (easy to do, research online) then apply a wax or sealant. Sealants also come in spray form and will provide additional protection. It can be topped with wax after a few days if you want even more protection and beading. Note: Claybar is only needed once a year if you keep your car clean and protected.
   
2. When washing, use a two bucket method. Look it up.
   
3. Get a good washing mitt. They aren't expensive. I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_5?crid=F45IEAEIK2RF&keywords=chenille+wash+mitt&qid=1559133753&s=gateway&sprefix=chenille+wash%2Caps%2C197&sr=8-5
   
4. Get some good drying towels. I suggest waffle weave drying towels. Get 2-3 that are 24x36 or similar.
   
5. Get some additional microfiber towels for spot cleaning.
   
6. Be careful washing in the full sun. Rinse will dry fast and leave watermarks.
   
7. Don't use automatic car washes. They leave micro swirls. In the winter just use one of those touch less washes when salt gets on your car.
   
8. Do not wash your drying towel / microfiber towels with the rest of your laundry. Do them separate. Use a mild detergent with no fabric softener like Woolite. Dry on low or air dry.

You might need one of these and a power drill instead.

this drill brush And diluted resolve carpet cleaner.

Plenty on amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_201_BRUSH_MD-Surface-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377904021&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+brush

By soaking, I meant spraying it on and letting it set for a few minutes.


Since you're limited on space, if you have a drill you could get an attachment like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I bought that one for the shower tile but it works great on tough fabric too. Magic erasers are awesome, but with the speed this thing can scrub fabric, it can get caked on stains that ME often can't.

I would say yes. A lot of new cars have rail dust all over them. You would be surprised if you sprayed [Iron X] (http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE?ie=UTF8&keywords=iron%20x&qid=1462388930&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1) all over the car how much iron contaminates will be in the paint. Its not worth the risk of polishing with a car that is contaminated. Its not too much work to clay if you use a nanoskin sponge or wash mit.

Rail dust from transport is very common on new cars and may or may not shot up as small orange specs. It can be removed with a clay bar as suggested, but whenever possible it's best to avoid physical contact with the paint. So in this case a chemical decon such as IronX would be your best bet. And a bonus, it has a unique smell.

I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.

• 2 Home Depot buckets with grit guards, microfiber cloths & wash mitt, waffle drying cloth
  
• soap -> [Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine](https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=pd_sim_263_2? (you can u_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00D8DR0AO&pd_rd_r=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8&pd_rd_w=L1qpT&pd_rd_wg=YSRMs&psc=1&refRID=FM515CNNWHKECR3HGYQ8) (I dilute this and use it as the "clay" lubricant as well)
  
• "clay" -> Nanoskin Autoscrub (works well enough, more cost effective than real clay)
  
• seal -> Chemical Guys Jet Seal
  
• wax -> Meguiar's
  
  
  

Great, thank you!

Sorry if I'm being stupid, but do I apply the sealant with a microfiber towel or with this?

If not, what is that sponge used for?

Here you go!

Chemical Guys Microfiber Applicators

Griots Garage Microfiber Speed Shine Cloth

Royal Auto Shop & Car wash towels 36 pack

Gummi Pflege Stift

Shurhold Buff Magic Compounding Pad 2 pack

Yacoto Microfiber Chenille Wash Mitt 2 pack

303 Fabric Guard

Invisible Glass 32 Oz - 6 pack

Griots Garage Microfiber and Foam Pad Cleaner

Chemical Guys Foam Cannon and Honeydew cleaner

Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine 32 oz

Mothers Clay Bar Kit

Sonax Wheel Cleaner Full Effect 169 oz

Griots Garage Microfiber Drying Towel

303 Stain Guard

303 Speed Detailer

Detailer's Choice Leather Chamois

Natural Boar Hair Detail Brush Pack

303 Spray Wax

MATCC 5Pcs White Flannelette Polishing Wheel Cone-Shaped Wheel Grinding Head

Chemical Guys Premium Microfiber Applicators

It doesn't take much at all to scratch a car. I'll leave it to others more experienced in paint correction to address your scratches, but in the future, know that even in the city you have safe self-wash options. Enter Optimum No Rinse Wash (often abbreviated as ONR on these threads).

Get yourself two five gallon buckets at Home Depot. Buy ONR, some microfibers, and a grit guard or two. Google Optimum No Rinse Wash and watch some two bucket method videos. You can fill the buckets in your apartment and head out and clean the car in a parking spot. You will soon get over your neighbors looking at you like you're nuts cleaning the car without a hose in a lot, because you'll always have the cleanest car around.

Start with that and stick around here and you'll find a lot more tips from people in your same situation.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yeCszbABCFF5T

Optimum no rinse - https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

I totally get what you mean. For bird poop removal I use ONR diluted to 2oz to a gallon in a spray bottle. Or just do a regular wash and when the mf towel touches the poop I put it in the dirty towel bucket and grab a new one.

For claying I use ONR diluted the same as before and what ever clay I have on hand most of the time it is the meguiars you can buy at the auto store.

For regular soap I use Adam's car shampoo (the blue one) I love this stuff in a bucket or foamer it works amazing for both.

Interior I mostly use onr in what ever dilution I have the most of at that time.

For cleaning glass I use the method Larry for AmmoNYC uses. Invisible glass works wonders for me but if it does not work for you don't be afraid to try other products. fine tuning your process will be trial and error of new products.

If you don't have a bottle of ONR already I would pick one up I use it every time I detail vehicle. You can find it on amazon here
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=onr&qid=1569990842&sr=8-1

But the biggest tip I can give anyone that is starting out is to drink water during detailing.

Hope this helps.

Looks great! I've been using [Optimum No Rinse] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1526843835&sr=1-1&keywords=onr) and am very happy with it. Saw it on this [Like Tesla] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ANVHPOL-rI) video.

For washing the non-greasy parts, I use a diluted solution of Optimum No Rinse (aka ONR, link here) and it works well. I use a waffle-weave microfiber and a bucket of water along with a spray bottle of ONR.

For windows, microfiber cloth plus Plexus or Clear View acrylic cleaner. Agree with what's stated below about don't drop your microfiber.

I am a fan of Optimum no rinse wash and use their tire shine and spray wax.

No rinse wash

I have found that Optimum works really well. Also, the last coat works really, really well for me.

1. What I advise you to do the following:
   
   1. Get PPF (Paint Protection Film) full front (if you can afford it)
      
   2. After the PPF, get a ceramic coating done. there’s a lot of debate of it’s actually needed or effective but I’ve seen many many cases where either side can be “correct” in the sense you can’t go wrong diy vs. getting it done professionally. There are plenty of people here who have done it themselves but please refer to r/Autodetailing if you’re interested. I choose to get mine done professionally and I don’t regret it one bit. Helps to maintain the car very easy. Here’s a pic after getting ppf and coating done: https://i.imgur.com/v3Lpn9g.jpg
      
2. I use two bucket method (LOT of tutorials on google and youtube) Here’s a list of every single thing related I purchased for doing my own car wash:
   
   1. ONR Solution
      
   2. Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (16 in. x 24 in.) (Pack of 6)
      
   3. 2 of Meguiar’s X2000 Water Magnet Microfiber Drying Towel, 1 Pack
      
   4. Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 Pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free
      
   5. Chemical Guys MIC_7071 Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel, Red (24 in. x 16 in.)
      
   6. Grit Guard (2x)
      
   7. Solo 418 One-Hand Pressure Sprayer, 1-Liter, Ergonomic Grip for Gardening, Fertilizing, Cleaning & General Use Spraying
      
   8. Windshield Window Cleaner Tool, Unbreakable Extendable Long-Reach Handle, Unique Pivoting Triangular Head, 3 Washable Reusable Microfiber Bonnets, Car & Home Inside Interior Exterior Use - Lint Free
      
   9. Buy 2 5 gallons buckets at Home Depot/Lowe’s
      
3. Tesla should do it for free but some people do end up paying $25-60 but usually free. Hope this helps!

Wash Wax All and I’ve only done waterless and always used CLEAN rags. Clean starting at the top moving down to the bottom last. As far as I can tell, I haven’t gotten hardly any spiderweb scratches.

I live in an apartment. I use this : Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PTFJBbS9FW3SZ

Can't recommend enough.

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless. Whether full wash or not. This is what I use. Works great. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

There is a pretty good explanation video on this Amazon page: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zyEWBbR304ERW

here you go

MATCC Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_zFKbnjznn8L2B

Don’t spend a lot of money. I have the McKilans one another poster mentioned, and the MATCC one from Amazon. The MATCC actually works better in my opinion, at half the price.

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_LMDXBbFVFARZF

I definitely don’t see a need for the more expensive ones.

Here you go

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_je1SCb7RHF37K

Chemical Guys CWS_101 Maxi-Suds II Super Suds Car Wash Soap and Shampoo, Cherry Scent (1 Gal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPW5YM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pf1SCb4FH2TET

https://www.amazon.com/MATCC-Adjustable-Connector-Blaster-Pressure/dp/B01CE78VO8

Here are both of the products I got (Not including the Pressure Washer)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OTW646/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.

Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!

Is this what you're referring to by clay bar?

I'll give the Windex/409 a shot first, since I have that lying around.

Thanks for the advice!

This crap. Going to buy it for the same purpose on my bike... after everything else is done. So, never. But yeah..

Cleaning a knife is easy. You can pretty much use any sort of solvent you've got handy, but if its too strong it may take off your blade labels. Start with water. It's actually a pretty good solvent. You'd be surprised how well it works most of the time. Afterwards make sure you dry it good and wipe the whole thing down with a good machine oil.

Or pick up a specialized metal polish. I like Simichrome. It's a great cleaner/polisher/protectant all in one step, but there are several good products on the market. A tube of something like that and a drop of oil for the pivot is really all you should ever need.

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E

Try something that's made to be used on paint, like Stoner Tarminator, or a clay bar kit before you go to gasoline. Start gentle, use the harsh stuff only as a last resort.

I used a dremel and this stuff:

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Mother’s. All I did was use the soft polish attachment and go to town on the SS. It worked great on my skx that o had gouged trying to remove the bezel with the wrong tool. It took awhile, but t worked great.

You can wash with soap and water, APC, or even aluminum-safe wheel cleaner if its really funky. When you clean it, use a pressure washer/compressed air to blow out the fins. If there is anything built up it will reduce the performance of the intercooler.

This video is a pretty good guide on polishing bare aluminum to a mirror finish. It is time consuming and messy, but you will get good results. If there aren't any deep scratches, I usually wetsand with 400, 800, 1000; sometimes finishing with #0000 steel wool before moving to the rouges. Instead of a compound at the end, I typically use something like mothers mag and aluminum polish, and finish with a coat of wax.

0000 steel wool and mothers polish. I just cleaned my 749 Termignoni's and the 0000 steel wool didn't harm them a bit. Give it a nice soap and water clean afterward. Mothers has a residue but man does it shine nice!

Pads

Polish

Wipes

I'm not an expert by any means, but from /r/AutoDetailing I ended up getting this: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

I just rinse the car down, mix that together in a bucket, use a microfiber mitt to apply it, then rinse it off and dry with a microfiber towel. I'm sure there are better/more specific products you could buy, though. Check /r/AutoDetailing for more.

The shininess of wet tumbling seems to be largely contingent on which cleaning agents you put in the water. I've had excellent luck with good car wash soap - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO. After 3 hours in my FA tumbler, the brass comes out extremely shiny inside and out, even the primer pockets are shiny.

/r/detailing will tell you to use a clay bar. I've had good results using this one from Mother's. There are tons of videos out there that will tell you how to properly use it.

Ever tried a clay bar? Takes a little elbow grease but works like a charm and won't damage your paint. I usually spot wax over any spot I clay bar though, just for the extra protection.
Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQxKDbQHE12KR

Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.

Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.

First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:

• 2x buckets + grit guards
  
• ONR concentrate (1 Gal. bottle)
  
• Big Red Sponge
  
• Mother's 07240 Calif. gold clay bar + instant detailer bottle kit
  
• Opti-Seal (20239) 8oz. bottle with applicator sponge
  
• Costco MF towels
  
• Aliexpress stuff: few MF sponges, couple of high gsm/edgeless mf towels to try out.
  
  Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
  
  I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
  
  Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
  
  I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
  
  I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
  
  The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
  
  
• scratch close up (https://i.imgur.com/glgivGd.jpg?1) (taken with 1:1 macro lens, so looks rather thick, it really isn't)
  
• Bird bomb #1 (https://i.imgur.com/wlK9j7J.jpg?1)
  
• Bird bomb #2 (https://i.imgur.com/FsUQBm4.jpg)
  
• Bird bomb #3 (https://i.imgur.com/vE5j9IM.jpg?1)
  
• Leaf etching (https://i.imgur.com/wIm1I2v.jpg?1)
  
• black dot with white 'halo' discoloration (https://i.imgur.com/oj9Tili.jpg?1)
  
  What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
  
  Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher


With that I did:

• Simple microfiber mitt wash
  
• Microfiber towel dry
  
• Full body clay bar using this kit
  
  
• All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.
  
  If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQVF8J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.

I wax about every three months. You'll be able to feel when you need a new coat. I also claybar every spring

Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.

Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!

1. First do a thorough wash, and dry completely.
   
2. Clay bar the entire exterior (I'm going to use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
   
3. Here's where I don't know what I should do...do I compound or is that not necessary? I'm thinking if I skip compounding, I will use Scratch X (http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10307-Scratch-X-2-0/dp/B0002UNON8)
   
4. Then I will Polish with This: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Polish-16-oz/dp/B004HCOE8Q
   
5. What do you recommend I do next? Could I follow the Mother's 3-step Ultimate Wax starting with this product? http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-07100-California-Gold-Polish/dp/B0002U26QE
   
   

• By the way, as you see I have attached the pictures...what do I do with the oxidation on the exterior windshield trim?
  
• Next, this paint damage, I was thinking to get a touchup paint from the dealership, but how should I apply this?
  
• Lastly, whats the most effective way to clean this part..the door jambs?
  
  Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
  
  PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
  
  THANKS!!
  

You'd be surprised, I really didn't use a wide variety, and what I used didn't cost too much. This was a while ago, and I buy so many random cleaning products I don't even remember what all of it was exactly, but:
Wax;
Claybar.
Really nothing particularly fancy you couldn't pick up at target. That said, I did spend a long time claybarring and waxing. Pretty much went over the entire car twice.

SECTION | CONTENT
:--|:--
Title | How to Remove Paint Scuffs On Your Car (Paint Transfer)
Description | How to remove paint scuffs from your car. Learn how to safely remove paint transfer from your car's paintwork without causing any damage to the paint underneath. Foam Abrasive: http://amzn.to/1r4wgDj Dash Camera I use: http://amzn.to/22BezJu WD40: http://amzn.to/1X1Expk Clay Bar: http://amzn.to/1XUcwiN Wax I recommend: http://amzn.to/1XUdviU Compound: http://amzn.to/1TYJpIw Remove Scratches from Wheels: https://youtu.be/9WQiqYlpxoY?list=PLDD611CFB36FC65F2 Top 10 Car Cleaning Mistakes: https:/...
Length | 0:06:05






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Clay bar is so much work but definitely worth the trouble, I try to do it once a year. 2-3 times a year I'll give it a really good wash, use klasse all in one followed by klasse sealant. Dirt/spots buff off with a microfiber, and I can wash the car very quickly once this is done. It does such a great job of creating that protective layer. It's on the expensive side but you use so little of each product that they will last you quite awhile.

Edit: doh, forgot my claybar brand...mother's

I clean my bike after almost every single ride. Sounds like overkill, but I live in a rural area with a lot of bugs.

I'm a bucket and hose guy. I usually just use some generic car wash soap from walmart with a decent car wash brush/sponge thing. For stubborn bugs, I've found that those fluffy round things that girls use in the shower work pretty good and don't leave scratches. I bought a pack of quality microfiber cloths to dry it down.

I'm still experimenting with different brands and types of wax for the painted pieces, so if anyone has any suggestions I'd love to hear them.

Finally, I polish the chrome. I've tried a few different brands and they were okay, but then I found THE ONE. This stuff is great, and not just on chrome. It made stainless steel pieces shine like I've never seen before. If you have chrome, you need this polish, thank me later.

The first thing I would try is Simichrome polish along with a lot of elbow grease. That may well help fix some of the scratches too. If that works, follow it up with an application of Renaissance Wax.

I think that should clear up your finish.

Gonna need some Simichrome, from the looks of things.

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E

Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_CBVFwbKVP7ZTQ

This and a brillo pad would probably do it, cover it with oil afterwards.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I7dKzbNHKJZZ1

Use an all purpose metal cleaning paste like Simichrome.

Cool, so if you want to do it yourself, the basic things you need will be a clay bar (often sold as a kit with the "quick detailer" you need as a lubricant- see here). You will need a good number of microfiber cloths throughout the process. And then the main thing, is you need a dual-action polisher.

Popular options for the polisher include Harbor Freight, Porter-Cable, and Meguiar's. A lot of people have good results with the Harbor Freight polisher which you can pick up for, off the top of my head, something like $70. The porter-cable 7424XP is like $120ish, and the Meguiar's MT300 is about $200. Of course, if you wanted to spend more, there's Flex and Rupes, but you don't need any of that for personal use.

With the polisher, you will need pads- in your case, some pretty aggressive cutting pads along with finer polishing and finishing pads. There are a ton of options here. I would recommend at least two of each level of aggressiveness.

And with that, you will need compound and polish. Again, lots of options here, but at the very least you will want one more aggressive type of compound and then a finer type of polish.

You'll also want a couple other things, like a brush and soap to clean your pads with, and I recommend looking into using a diluted alcohol solution to clean between compounding and polishing steps.

I personally am a fan of Meguiar's, and in my opinion their lineup makes thing fairly simple. If you want to go the most cost-effective route, you could still buy the Harbor Freight polisher, and then use meguiar's pads and product (many people say the Harbor Freight pads are garbage, I have never used them so I don't really know).

As an example, you could use the Harbor Freight polisher, with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and M105 compound, then Meguiar's foam polishing pad and M205 polish.

There are so many options it's easy to get lost and confused, overall I think as long as you do enough research to understand the process of

washing->decontaminating->compounding->polishing

it won't make that much of a difference what products you use.

Look up Junkman's series of videos! In one set he stands up and dances on the hood of his car and then shows you how to fix the damage.

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

My fault forgot to reply to this.

So this is the final polishing boat wax I used. In addition to this I also used this and this. For the clay bar I used Meguirs. For the tire shine I used this.

Anyone around here got a lot of experience with detailing cars? My Model 3 got covered in thousands of flecks of tree sap a few weeks ago, and while clay barring it over the weekend removed most of it (and finally made my windshield non-dangerous when facing the sun), it didn't quite remove all of the sap. There are still very slight flecks visible in the windshield when looking through it from the inside directly at a light source. It looks like this, but much less pronounced (that photo was taken before the clay bar).

I would love to remove the last of these flecks and bring my windshield back to its pristine transparency from when I got it delivered 2 months ago, but I just don't have a clue what to do. This was the very first time I've ever done clay bar, and I used this product. Maybe a different product would get rid of the last remnants of that sap?

First off, the subreddit that inspired me to start cleaning cars: /r/AutoDetailing . They've got some great material there, along with resources, instructions, and more.

First, clean the windshield. If it's not been done in a while, you'll have to do it very well. Prepping the windshield is the most critical part to a good coat of RainX. My preferred method is to begin after washing the car. Get some good glass cleaner, like Stoners, spray it over the windshield, then use a razor blade, holding it at a 45 degree angle to the glass, to scrape down the windshield in and up and down and side to side pattern. This won't scratch the glass, but help remove embedded particles. After you've finished scraping the glass, wipe down the excess window cleaner with a clean microfiber towel. Then use a clay bar to go over the glass one more time. This picks up any additional leftover contaminants left in the glass. Because it's clay, it will want to stick to the glass, so you can use the Stoners as lubrication. Once done, wipe the excess off with a window with some type of glass rag. Now you can apply RainX. Using a microfiber towel folded a few times, put a small amount of RainX in a corner and begin working into the glass (I've seen AmmoNYC use foam from packaging before). Use circular motions and check it from a few angles to make sure you've covered everything. The product should form a "haze" a few seconds after application. A little bit goes a long way with RainX. Some guys recommend turning on your windshield defrosters and running them as hot as possible for a few minutes before applying the RainX, I've not noticed a huge difference. After 5-10 minutes, use a glass towel to begin buffing it off. You can sprinkle a little bit of water on the window during this process to help take it off, but I just stick to the towel. You can apply a 2nd coat immediately after for improved results, but anything beyond that doesn't help. Double check your working by looking at the glass from all angles (inside/outside) to make sure you didn't miss a spot. Enjoy driving in the rain with no need for windshield wipers above 35mph!

Hope this helps. Again, prepping the glass is the most critical part. You're creating a clean surface to put on the hydrophobic materials of RainX. If there's dirt still in the glass, that's something the water can hold on to and not bead off properly.

The easiest answer is to avoid spots by hand-drying glassware after washing and thoroughly rinsing them.

For a quick shine before setting the table, a barely/partially damp lint-free cloth should work. Something similar to a car chamois/shammy, perhaps.

If, like me, you have awful hard water leaving heavy deposits on your glassware, it's a bit more involved. I've used a clay-bar kit (mostly out of curiosity) with great results; nothing short of that seems to work, however.

i have this stuff to clay

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1377392115&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+clay

and alright i think i got it, its about 100 but at least i can do it multiple times. i guess the whole thing is going to take a couple of hours

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

Also, you might want to check out this video, it pretty much covers the whole process, using the same products in the Blackfire kit:

https://youtu.be/-YIYfAS9vR4

>Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

>1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

>2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

>3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

>4: Nice coat of wax

>How does that sound?

Correct. A 2-bucket wash will get most of the dirt off while not marring the paint any further than it already is.

Also, that is a very good clay kit. I will pre-warn you, claying is the absolute worst part of the job. It's rewarding afterward, but such a pain. If you want, there is stuff called "nanoskin" that has pretty much the same effect as clay but it requires a lot less effort. Check Amazon for "nanoskin fine grade sponge." It's like 11 bucks. Note that you'll still need to buy a quick detailer like the one in the clay kit for general purpose spray, so you may want to go for the clay kit. Get nanoskin when you're a little more familiar with detailing.

As you rub the clay, be sure it's well lubricated so the clay just glides. You will feel resistance to the gliding until the clay picks up all the grime. Then the clay will flow smooth. That's when you knead it and move to a new section.

If you choose to go DA polisher, beware that there are a lot more purchases that go along with it. You'll also need a backing plate and pads. That can become pricey. Polishing is attainable by hand, but very time-consuming. I'd recommend going panel by panel, day by day with hand method. Claying an entire car, then hand polishing it will make you want to never touch a car again haha.

I recommend you wash and clay the roof, then polish and wax. On a different day, do the same to the hood. The next day, tackle a quarter-panel. This will keep you sane.

Meguiar's smooth surface clay kit. First time claying for me so take what I say with several grains of salt haha. Seemed to work pretty well, I did have to really focus on certain spots though (I think I had some sort of adhesive or glue from the dealership days)

I have never used tuff stuff, but I have had good success with Meguairs APC

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469057081&sr=8-1&keywords=d101

Another decent one is 303 multi surface cleaner/303 spot cleaner.

http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Cleaner-Spot-Remover-P15/32-oz-S1/

The process is pretty much the same regardless of which cleaner, You spray it on, agitate it, then blot with a microfiber towel.

If that doesn't work you could try using a steam cleaner

Highly recommend a gallon of Megs APC. It's cheap and it will last forever. It's great for tires/wheels, exhaust tips, engine bay, interior, etc.

Also, remember to cancel the Prime trial before it ends if you don't want to keep it. They automatically charge you at the end of the trial.

Nice ride. I myself have a 2015 Mazda 3 GT. I use Lexol for cleaning and conditiong (protecting) leather. Just use some TRC microfiber towels to clean the leather and the rest of the interior. For the dash, I just use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and D101 APC. It doesn't leave a shiny residue on the dash. I use those two for almost everything on the interior.

Meguiar's APC seems to be everyone's favorite around here.

Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.

Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.


Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.

The answer to your first question of what makes vehicles "have that glorious-mirror almost appearance" is paint correction. There is no miracle product that will instantly turn shitty paint into 100% flawlessness in 1 application. It will take good claying, compounding, and polishing to get the results you are looking for. I'm sure that the clay, HF DA, M105 and M205, and the various pads you have will be able to get the results you are looking for. The only problem is time. It is going to take more time to get the results because the HF DA is not powerful, when compared to something like the Rupes or the Flex.

Carnauba waxes. The consensus is that they add depth and shine, but don't last long. Sealants last longer, but with less shine and depth. Both sealants and carnauba waxes will make shitty paint look less shitty, with carnauba slightly edging out sealants. But like previously stated, its all about the prep work. Sealant on flawless paint will still look better than carnauba wax over sealant on shitty paint.

Glazes. The sole purpose of glaze is to fill in scratches. No amount or type of glaze will replace correcting paint. It is unnecessary to put glaze immediately after a vehicle just had paint correction as there are no scratches for the glaze to fill in. However, sometimes it makes sense to glaze and not correct the paint. Generally, the two situations where glaze is better than correcting paint are when you don't have enough time to correct the vehicle, or the customer does not have the funds to correct the vehicle. Correcting paint takes hours and hours, while glaze (depending on vehicle size) may take up to an hour to apply and remove. Obviously, paint correction costs more than an application of glaze.

Spray on wax compared to Collinite #845 is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Even a shitty application of Collinite that is 4 months old will still be better than spray on wax. That said, I think it is still good to use spray wax after washing the vehicle.

One thing I didn't see you mention is wheels, tires, and trim. You also want to spend great care on these three areas because they create contrast with the paint, thus making the paint look even better. Essentially, you want all aspects of the wheel clean (face, spokes, barrel). You want the tire to be scrubbed with cleaner and then dressed with a water based dressing. You then want to clean the trim with all purpose cleaner and use either dressing or a trim restorer to give it the original look. Good wheel cleaner: Sonax Good APC for tires and trim:Meguair's D101 Good tire dressing: Adam's Super VRT

Anything I have said here is open for constructive discussion.

TL;DR Correcting paint is above everything. Glazes mostly unnecessary. Both sealants and carnauba waxes have their purposes. Look into cleaning and dressing wheels, tires, and trim.

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

as a classic car owner, Mothers Mag and Aluminium polish
http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y

nothing comes even close to it.

I bought 00 and 0000. Only used the 0000 because I wanted to take the least metal off. You have to cut into the metal though you will see small lines that don't look good until polished. You will see the tarnish disappear.

Chrome though, I didn't even need to polish. Brushed it with the steel wool rust came off and it was shiny and perfect looking.

Wool Grades

Steel Wool first. Then i used a aluminium/mag polish called Mothers.


Idk about the bottom of the forks at least on my bike that finish is different. But all the cross members on the forks shined up right

Man... that raw aluminum makes me want to take some Mothers to it... could probably achieve a mirror finish.

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OWsoxb449WA9N

This works perfectly for me!

You can polish the blade with mothers mag polish or somthing simular, and you can patch the handle with sugru

I use Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523456718&sr=8-2&keywords=mothers+mag+and+aluminum+polish&dpID=51jppSER5ZL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
It works like a charm! I polish it all the time.

Use Mothers mag polish.

[Mother's Polish w/ microfiber cloth] (http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419893973&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+polish) for heavy duty stuff and a Jewelry Cloth for everyday use.

Use something like this.

> For batteries, I'm using some efest IMR 18650s, do you think a different battery would make a noticeable difference?

eFests and mechs do not go well together, that being said hopefully you have one of the 20 amp rated ones, but it's still likely a poor choice for a mechanical device. Before buying the mod or at the same time you should have bought at least two of these, which currently is the cheapest price out of the three known trustworthy vendors for authentic cells.

You should read more into mechanical mods if questions like this are ones you need to ask, not meaning to be rude. Using an ohms law calculator at 4.2v you're going over 1a of what hopefully is the rating of your battery (if you have the 12a then this is actually not safe) but your mod will be pulling less with voltage drop. You should be calculating for 4.2 though to give yourself some headroom for safety. Especially if you threw an efest into a mech. I apologize if I come off condescending, it's not my goal at all, it's just with mechanical mods the battery is possibly one of the most important things to know how many amps you have to work with and you should never use rewraps in a mech. There's other batteries with lower ratings people use but honestly, I don't see any reason to when the VTC5a exists, is available, and possibly the all around best battery for vaporizers in general. In regulated devices you can sacrifice that extra cdr for some more battery life but in this situation the CDR is going to be a major determining factor in building safely and knowing what is safe and isn't as you need this for ohms law calculation.

Use the 510 pin cap for now because the more safety involved currently the better. Also if you didn't already know make sure to religiously check your battery wraps for any nicks or tears. With your mod you do have the delrin insulation I believe, but honestly if there's a tear or any damage to the wrap just rewrap it to be safe, you really don't want a short to happen and I don't want to see you on the news.

If there's any other questions that you're hesitant to ask, you may as well, because I'd rather help clear some things up or show you areas in which to read more so you know how to use what you have as safe as possible, and with efest batteries it worries me that there may be some things you may have missed.

Tldr: order these and don't use the efests. 2 of them should be fine unless you plan on using it as a main device in which 4 may be a safer bet, but 2 should be fine. Plus you're still learning some things it seems to there's no reason to use a potentially risky rewrap with false ratings when something like that is so cheap, and performs so well.

edit: I use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish for my mech mods, they're copper but I want to say that works well for brass too. Theres videos on how to properly polish if you are unsure. You want to wash it off after you use that though so you prevent potential damage to your device by leaving some of it behind. Pick up battery wraps and insulators as well, you're going to need these if you vape regardless and with mechanical mods you should have some ready to go as soon as any damage to the wrap happens. They're dirt cheap and it's easy to do, again there's youtube videos that show how to rewrap 18650s. Don't get them mixed up with other batteries though afterwards, as you don't want to throw a 15a battery into that thinking it's 25a and pulling too much power from it than the cell can handle.

Hybrid mode is more conductive but at this stage in the game I would use the topcap with the 510 pin instead. You likely won't notice a dramatic difference and it's safer for now.

Also you will probably have better luck with simple round wire builds than things like claptons simply due to ramp up time. Especially since at the moment if you continue to use that without the batteries I linked, you want to pulse it as little as possible. I am erring on the side of caution but if I am aiming for what's safest for you right now and until you learn all you should have known before buying a mech, you probably should too. Either way though, I find simple round wire builds are better in the builds I have tried compared to the fused claptons I gave a shot once. I don't like ramp up time though and even if you look at a lot of way people who are "sponsored" build you will see half the time they are still using basic round wire builds too. They just work and are simple.

Hi All!

My family owns a heating oil delivery business and we pride ourselves on having the cleanest and best looking trucks around.

To polish the tanks, we use Mother's Aluminum polish (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y) applied by hand (to avoid swirls, I'm told)

I was wondering if you guys could shed some light on a best approach to keep these looking like a mirror finish? Could a DA polisher be used? Is there a better product than the aluminum polish? Should we be waxing the tanks as well?

Here are a couple of pictures: http://imgur.com/a/IfTnb

Thanks for any tips! I know this is a little unique since it's metal instead of paint!

Depends on how bad. I've used Autosol products for aluminum oxidation with pretty good results. It's not super cheap, though. Also, some Mothers Mag Aluminum Polish works well if the surface is pretty clean.

It's hard to say without seeing the pipes, but heavy rust is usually really difficult to remove as the metal has physically changed. Feel free to send a picture of your pipes, though!

Sure, awesome find by the way.

After removing all the tubes I wiped it down a few times with just a damp cloth to get the heavy dust off. The real pain is getting rid of the sticky yellowed smoke film that most old tube gear has. The best thing I've found to get rid of it is Zep All Purpose Cleaner. It's green and can be found at Home Depot. The nice thing about it is that you apply it, wait five to ten minutes and gently wipe it off. It takes the grime with it and leaves lettering. Keep it up until the surface is clean and your rag isn't lifting up any nasty yellow anymore. You still have to be careful, if you rub too much or apply too much or leave it on too long it will lift lettering, but it's the most forgiving product I've come across in that respect. I was pretty lucky with this one as it hadn't been smoked around that much.

For the aluminum tube covers I used Mothers metal polish. They transform from dull grey to almost a mirror finish without too much effort. I went a little nuts with the Mothers and polished as much of the steel as I could, like the tuning pot cover (while trying to keep the stickers), the sides of the chassis, and the aluminum capacitor cans. This album shows a before and after.

I removed the face panel, soaked it in Zep first and then used Blue Magic Quick Shine metal polish. I also used Zep on the back but didn't do much else since there's so much lettering around all of the connections that I didn't want to remove it. I soaked the knobs in Zep, used Brasso to shine up the caps, and then used a paper towels and a small stiff brush to get all of the Brasso out of the plastic grooves. I was lucky with the dial glass, it wasn't dirty enough that it need to be removed, I just used Zep and then Windex on the front. If you do remove it, be very careful with the lettering, it comes off easily... I'd only use a damp cloth.

After I fired it up I found I had some dirty switch pots, so I squirted them with a little Deoxit and worked them back and forth. I also used a little clock oil on the pots.

I bought a kit from this guy to replace components. There are plenty of forums (I prefer audiokarma.org) with information and willing members to assist if you want to do it yourself, but the kit takes a bit of the guess work out of it. My album shows everything that was replaced. Basically, it's every capacitor that could go bad and affect the sound, modifying the de-emphasis to modern standard, lowering the voltage (These fishers run crazy hot and eat output tubes at their original voltage), and making it a little safer to operate.

I had to replace the plastic antenna straps which had crumbled from age, one of the brass knob caps that was missing, 3 out of the 4 lightbulbs, and 9 tubes.

I then put the tubes back in and brought it slowly up on a variac for about 3 or 4 hours to reform the can caps. I still have some polishing work on it, but it's pretty much done and sounds great.

Have you powered up your 500B? Is it complete? Pictures?

I use Meguiar's Gold Class for soap and in this picture I used Meguiar's Spray Wax as a drying agent.

My very first wash a few weeks ago I used HydrO2 for a longer lasting hydrophobic sealant.

I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.

• Two buckets that will be used for the two bucket wash method. They can be purchased from a local home center for relatively cheap. $10
  
• Grit Guards. Preferably two, in order to prevent grit from reentering the wash mitt. $20
  
• Wash Mitt. Something like this will be just fine. $8
  
• Car soap. This is completely up to you. Something like Meguiar's Gold Class is fine. $10
  
  
• Wheel brush. Dependent on what you type of wheels you have. A quick amazon search will give you an idea. $10-20
  
• Sealant. I use Meguiar's M21. Not the best not the worst. Im sure others will chime in an have recommendations for you. $20.
  
• Wax. I don't use a wax because my car is older, and the sealant does just fine.
  
  
• Microfibers. The Rag Company has some great starter kits.
  
  Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
  
  
• Wheel cleaner. Something like Sonax. $15
  
• Clay Bar. This will be used to intitially remove contaminants from the car. Plenty of youtube how to's and kits can be found easily through amazon or your local auto parts store. $20
  
  I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
  
  I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
  

Depends on your budget. I use CarPro Reset shampoo as it cleans extremely well. However, you can also use Meguiars Gold Class and it does quite well. For wax, I would stay away from paste waxes. Find a good liquid wax as it spreads thinner which makes removal easier. Alternatively, if you want the same protection, if you do order from CarPro, pick up their Hydr02 Lite, which is a spray sealant that lasts just as long as wax. Just spray it on while wet, and rinse with high pressure. Protection for 3-4 months. Links below:

Reset - https://www.carpro-us.com/wash/carpro-reset-car-wash-500ml-17oz/

Hydr02 - https://www.carpro-us.com/coatings-sealants-spray-wax/carpro-hydro2-lite-1-liter/

Meguiars Gold Class - https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549208569&sr=8-5&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

You can get CarPro from Amazon but its more expensive. Hope this helps!

• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash
  
• Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
  
• Simple green (for the wheels)
  
  Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
  
  Hope this helps!

as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.

• i use this for leather
  
  
  
  
  if you are interested
  
  
• This is a good shampoo (Gold Class)
  
  
• this for keeping in the boot for cleaning off the bird shit (do that as soon as you see it no matter how crazy you look in the parking lot (Quick Detailer)
  
  
• this about once a month to keep the paint protected (21 Synthetic Sealant )
  
  
• This for the wash's where i cant be bothered to used the 21. (Spray wax)
  
  (tbh the spray wax and quick detailer can be interchanged, on a technical level they preform slightly different functions, but for the average person who just wants a clean reasonably shiny car it will be fine.)
  
  just make sure any microfiber cloths you use are kept clean and free from grit or you will scratch the paint.
  
  if you are really sad like me give the ammo nyc youtube channel a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLUuiMnlhc0 i find them very relaxing to watch not sure why, but also shows lot of "best practice" for keeping your car in good condition.

Thanks!

I'm definitely a rookie that's been watching youtube videos to learn and haven't really spend much on tools.

Foam Cannon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPKHFA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Pressure Washer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBT3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

As a test run I used Meguiar's Gold Class: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_7?crid=BG425GLTKNPI&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash&qid=1555861387&s=gateway&sprefix=meguiars+gold+c%2Clawngarden%2C144&sr=8-7

​

Honestly, the result vs effort in this method is really good. It's not a spot on wash but it was a quick wash and cleaned up nicely overall. I will definitely keep working this method in the future.

You could try Iron X http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE Or similar products.

I thought about having the whole car repainted or trying to do the clear myself. I know if I reclear it, it wont look right. Its that Night Hawk Black from honda with the blue flake in it. Super pretty color :( I live in Ohio, but this car has ZERO rust other than one fender that got bent up from a blowout. Most rust is on edges in the underside and on brackets under the hood.

http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377626808&sr=8-1&keywords=ironx

This is the stuff right?

Not too sure if it is. I use CarPro Iron X and that is sade for painted surfaces and your wheels: Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UM6DLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H1QPCb6ZNA286

Non-mobile link

Unless you specially needclay, go with Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SEotDbSTMY8MQ

Don't use just water.

You can pickup blue ONR https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510851008&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse which you can use as clay lube, detailer, rinseless wash depending on the dilution with your distilled water.

Clay lube: ratio 1:64 or 2 oz/1 gallon



Those types of clay do the job and some people perfer it to traditional clay. I haven't heard of that brand, but i'm sure its the same stuff. I personally have little sponge from Nanoskin. https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510851254&sr=8-3&keywords=nanoskin
I like this better than that "towel" since this has a nice grip.

Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10

If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7

If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it

Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)

Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10

I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.

Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.

I agree with everyone that it's rail dust, or just iron particulates that get embedded in to your clear coat. initial removal will take care of most of it, but know that with a white vehicle, it'll show up occasionally, even with waxing.

Instead of plain clay bar, I'd recommend getting a nano-skin. works like clay bar, but much easier to use (you can drop it and simply rinse it off). I just use any quick detail spray as a lube.

nanoskin

https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503197119&sr=8-1&keywords=nanoskin

That's what I use. Works great.

Your new best friend for garage washes in the winter.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vZ.1Ab3S50G2X

Mist the spots with a 50:50 blend of distilled white vinegar and DISTILLED water.

Wipe with a clean dry MF towel.

If you have hard water from your taps, I’d recommend switching to a rinseless wash with Optimum No Rinse Wash and Shine.

If you’re only washing 1 vehicle, you just need 1 gallon of distilled water in a bucket and .5oz of ONR and either the Optimum Big Red Sponge, or a fair number of decent MF towels (google the Garry Dean method).

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

ONR is all I use to wash my VW, my wife’s 4Runner, and my Dad’s Lexus.

Rinseless is the way to go. Saves time, saves water, better for the environment.

r/autodetailing if you want to learn more (read the wikis before posting questions)

Pick up some Optimum No Rinse. Most useful and versatile stuff ever. Quick detailer dilution ratio is 1:16.

Optimum No Rinse(ONR) is a rinseless wash product that can, in certain situations, replace the standard 2 bucket method. It is diluted with water than worked over the car one section at a time with a microfiber cloths. Other uses include dilution for spray lubricant or quick detailer.

I have not used it personally but it is a very recommended product especially for those with difficult access to hose water.

Link

Process

Album

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lvviDbJGHZREM

Have you ever tried rinse-less carwash? I live in an apartment complex without a car washing bay and it has saved my life. Super easy to use and all you need is a bucket of water and a good amount of microfiber towels!


https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1A5MPFJXPB92&keywords=rinseless+car+wash&qid=1567781917&s=gateway&sprefix=Rinseless+car%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-4

Optimum No Rinse

I've been using optimum no rinse, no hose needed and no water spots.

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1488119336&sr=1-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse

I am also hose-less and garage-less, so I've been using this rinseless wash, good microfiber cloths (about 5 to do the whole car), and a large chemical guys microfiber towel to dry. If the car is pretty dirty you're going to want to spray it off at a car wash to prevent swirling of the paint. I've been using 303 to finish off the interior and black magic to clean the tires/wheels when i go to spray the car off at the car wash.

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

Interesting, so I guess I will save the bays for actual dirt and grime then.

So I will need a bucket, some ONR wash (Is this diluted with water?), a drying aid, and a drying towel. What exactly is a drying aid, is that like a product?

Will these works?

ONR

NO.1 Wash mitts

NO.1 Drying Towels

Also, you said you do a quick 10 minute wipe down, is that the process you use? Or do you have another touch up product or something?

Thank you by the way!

Like ultragib said, the green stuff has wax in it. You're looking for the blue stuff if you want to wax as a separate step.

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505760994&sr=1-5&keywords=optimum

What I used:

Mothers Microfiber Performance Drying Towel.

AmazonBasics Microfiber Cleaning Cloth, (Pack of 24).

Chemical Guys MIC_701_01 - Glass and Window Waffle Weave Towel.

Stoner 92164 Invisible Glass for Window, Windshield and Mirror Cleaner.

Rain-X 800002243 Glass Treatment.

Griot's Garage 10268 Micro Fiber Wash Mitt.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine.

Eagle One 665854 All Wheel and Tire Cleaner.

Mothers Wheel Brush.

Mothers 10324 Reflections Tire Care.

Chemical Guys ACC_300_2 - Durafoam Contoured Large Tire Dressing Applicator Pad.

Meguiar's G14422 Ultimate Quik Detailer.

303 Products 30350 Aerospace Protectant.

Black & Decker CHV1510 Dustbuster 15.6-Volt Cordless Cyclonic Hand Vacuum.

(I live in an apartment complex... otherwise I'd probably get a shop vac).

Two 5 gallon buckets.

2 of The Grit Guard Inserts.

I use AeroCosmetics waterless... so convenient.

Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1VZrDbHP4H0K3

Of course, if heavy dirt, I wash with foam cannon and 2 bucket. But that’s a rarity. Sometimes I just quickly power wash the exterior, bring the car in the garage and use the AeroCosmetics.

For exterior and glass, I've been using Aero Cosmetics waterless wash and wax, absolutely amazing slick results. Just wipe on and wipe off.

Thank you! Are we talking Turtle wax or something like this?

​

Sure,

Here’s the best Leather soap

Best conditioner

And ceramic coating for the leather seat is no longer available on Amazon for some odd reason but here’s the link from a different site

ceramic coating for leather

This is of course based on 5 years or detailing my own cars and trying bunch of products. When I’m on the go I use this waterless car wash

Honestly, I just use this stuff, Aero Cosmetics Wash Wax All

Spray on, wipe with damp microfiber, wipe with dry microfiber. Takes me 4 cloths to clean my whole car. Granted, I live in Las Vegas and rarely get anything than dust on my vehicle. It’s really easy and looks great, every time.

Completed my first week with 28 rides and I'm surprised how nice everyone has been so far! I creeped on this sub for a few weeks now for tips/tricks and it has really helped. PAX also really like the interior lights of my car. Some materials I want to share:


Waterless Car Wash - I work in the city and didn't know there was such a thing. I can wash my car in my parking spot or on the street with a little bucket of water.


LED Interior Lights - This is a little flashy, but it was only $10 and I hard wired it into my interior dash so there are 0 wires and I'm not using up my outlet for power. Plus PAX can see if they dropped anything and we're not driving completely in the dark. I can control the brightness and usually have it very dim for some atmospheric lighting


Vaccum - This thing works great and has a very long cord to reach through my entire Jeep. It's not for heavy duty jobs, but vacuuming once a week should do the trick


Phone Holder - The Jeep has circular air ducts so this is a great alternative - if you do not use your CD player. This does cover your CD port and has worked great so far. Since it's in my center dash, PAX can see where I'm going.


Battery Powered Uber Sign - Again, flashy but it draws attention and since it's battery powered I do not have to worry about cords running through my car or dash. I found mine on Ebay.


Water - I have a small compartment to keep ice-packs and small water bottles. With every PAX I pickup I offer a bottle of water. 9/10 say no thanks but everyone is very thankful for the offer.

I'm looking into buying a power washer for general use around the house, and for washing my car.

I think my sweet spot is going to be one of these SunJoe's, but I've read they like to use proprietary connectors. I was hoping on using a foam cannon like this MATCC, but it sounds like it won't be that simple.

Have you had any issues with the one you got? Any recommendations on accessories?

MATCC Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector
$19.98
Sale ends May 28

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_41Ejzb541E20A

Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon](http://www.MATCC.com/ Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrJmzb8PWHAQH)
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.

All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.

[Speed shine](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KuJmzbF11YMYS)
[Interior cleaning ](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lvJmzbYGA8QRT)
[Spray wax](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WvJmzb2DC8ZAZ)
[Wash soap](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA2LMVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwJmzbPEEQTMQ)

Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers

Gotcha, had a feeling I had to get a better attachment. Would this this suffice as a more budget friendly attachment?

Thanks for all the info! I ended up buying the MATCC one from Amazon and will prolly pick up the 1.1mm orifice that @Ziomalski suggested. I chose this cannon b/c I know it fits the SPX3001 out the box.

Will be here today. Excited to see the results.

I purchased a knock-off on Amazon (MATCC) and have been very happy with it. It's hooked up to a 3000 PSI gas powered pressure washer so I'm sure that helps, but I've gotten good results. The review with the pic of a Yukon on there is mine.

Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've got the MATCC Foam Cannon - use it with honeydew. Paired with the Powerstroke electric pressure washer that they sell at Costco for $150 it's a great combo without spending crazy money.

And just think, some of the suds dripped off BEFORE I got this shot. Here are the links to the Foam Gun/Cannon and the soap:

Foam Gun/Cannon

Soap - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam

I also grabbed the mitt that was offered with it from Amazon.

I added some soap to the canister with the water to dilute it. I just poured in what I thought was good. My pressure washer is a gas powered Troy from Lowes rated at 2900 PSI.

Hope this helps you out.

If you wanna keep it under $30 and want a very basic method of keeping your car clean then I would recommend the tried and true 2-Bucket Wash method.

1. 2 x 5-gallon buckets (Lowes or Home Depot) - $2/bucket
   
2. 2 x GritGuards - $17
   
3. 2 x MicroFiber Wash Mitts - $15
   
4. Meguiar's Golf Class Car Wash Shampoo - $10
   
   TOTAL: $45ish
   
   I know that $45 is over your budget of $30, but I highly recommend using the 2-bucket wash method. You can get away with using 1 grit guard and 1 wash mitt if you want to cut a little bit on cost. You could also buy a smaller size of car wash shampoo... this may get you closer to budget.
   
   The reason I buy 2 grit guards is to use 1 in each bucket. You can buy only 1 and use it in the rinse water bucket for when you rinse your mitt.
   
   You can also get away with having 1 wash mitt and look at different brands. I personally use 2 (one for upper half, one for lower half) to reduce contamination.
   
   ---
   
   If you want to expand later on to go beyond cleaning the car... then you can put some money into additional products. You will want to look into wheel brushes, all-purpose cleaner, glass cleaners, detail sprays, waxes, etc.
   
   Once you start, you cannot stop!

I typed up a reply but it seems to have disappeared. Sorry if this is a repost.

It could be anything from trash in the button to the button falling off of the circuit board or a shorted trace. Without seeing the innards, it's really hard to say.

HOWEVER, I've fixed an amazing amount of gear simply by spraying it with contact cleaner.

Take the battery out, get as close as you can to the board, if that's not possible, just spray around the edges of the button from the outside, some cleaner should get in there.

As you're spraying liberally, click the button a ton of times. Something like 50 presses. Give it a minute or two to let the cleaner evaporate (shouldn't take long) and then power it back up and give it a shot.

There's a good chance this will do the trick.

Let me know if it works :)

Get some electric cleaner like: https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

Test it in an inconspicuous are first then douse the hell out of your switch.

Could also be a bad solder joint. Not too hard to fix if you take your time and work carefully.

Sure thing. This is the stuff I used. You can probably pick up something similar at Radio Shack, Best Buy or better yet a local electronics store.

There exist products that are specifically designed to clean contacts. It's called contact cleaner and it's what I use to clean both cartridges and consoles. Just spray it in the former and insert it into the latter a few times. Dries quickly and leaves no residue.

Yes. One drop of liquid shorting any traces could permanently damage electronic components. And yes, a motherboard is a very complicated piece of electronics. There is a lot of power regulation on the boards. A single blown cap will render a mobo dysfunctional. Buy this and follow the instructions. You can also buy denatured alcohol to clean circuitry.

Best polish product ever

Completely removes any stains and tarnishes, and leaves a sparkling shine with absolutely zero abrasion. This container has lasted me for over a year. Just rip a little off and rub away!

http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A

You can get this stuff at Walmart/Autozone. I've been using it for 10+ years.

If you want to make it shiny as can be, you might hit the body with some Nevr-Dull.

i use never dull. they sell it at any autoparts store. it works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1464995628&sr=8-3&keywords=never+dull

NEVR-DULL can be found in the car care section of walmart, or autoparts stores

This? http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Eagle One E301131001 Original Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish for all Metals, 5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CNBI1A?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It looks like the rust ate through the plating so it'll take a bit of effort to make it look like new. You could use a rust remover like whink then an all purpose metal polish like eagle one never dull to make it spiffy.

You just need to polish the frets. And change those strings. Yikes. :)

Get some Eagle One Nevr-Dull from your local auto parts store. I picked some up from PepBoys recently.

Put tape on the fretboard right up to the edge of the frets to protect the wood. Then scrub the frets with Nevr-Dull. Rinse and repeat.

Once you're done, remove the frets and wipe down the fretboard with a clean cloth and naptha. You just want to get any loose bits and gunk off.

Put some graphite in the nut and saddle slots.

Toss a little bit of mineral oil on the fretboard and restring that puppy.

Like the title says, between my final semester of college, moving and starting a new job, I haven't had the time to give my KM a good cleaning. For those interested in the process, here goes:

I started by disassembling the entire thing. The coal tray, grommets and any other removable pieces got a bath in hot water and dish soap. The stem was scrubbed with a brush soaked in the soapy water, and left to soak for a few minutes. The soap worked to loosen any built up grease and other shit inside. If you've never done this, do it, its disgusting the stuff that comes out. After the good soak, I ran water down the stem and passed some paper towels through. If you've ever cleaned a gun, its basically the same thing. The base got a good soaking in plain old hot water and was scrubbed inside with a brush and wiped clean on the outside. I don't recommend the soap on the base as its a bitch to get out.

For the actual polishing, I used Eagle One Never Dull (http://amzn.com/B000CNBI1A). Lay down a towel, grab a wad and get to work. I like to rest the bottom of the stem on my foot and spin the whole stem while I hold the wadding to it. As you work, the wadding will turn gray as it removes the tarnishing. As it gets grayer or starts falling apart, just grab some more. Once you've hit the whole thing, repeat the process but with a dry microfiber towel. At this point, you're done, or you can continue repeating the process until you're satisfied! This stuff is fairly harsh, so don't use it in a poorly vented room and I recommend washing your hands thoroughly when you're done.

Enjoy!

Try these, just wear nitrile gloves while doing it. Once you’ve polished them to your liking, simply put the cloth back in the pouch & wipe the watch with a microfiber cloth.

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths, I've had luck with them for minor scratches, any deep scratches would probably need to be taken to a professional. Also the cloths only work on the glossy portions of the watch, the brushed/satin portions such as the sides of the watch cannot be polished off with the cloth otherwise you'll rub off the finish, again a professional should be able to polish and resurface such areas.

Not sure if professionals work on smartwatches though as I've never tried asking, and it might cost more than it's worth considering the diminishing value of old smartwatches. ($100 - $200 for a professional's service on the upper end, and around $50 for minor jobs)

Have you tried http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0017H3PIO?pc_redir=1411576924&robot_redir=1

Cape Cod cleaning cloths? It's pretty easy and quick to get a decent shine on brass mods.

There was this one here, but it’s out of stock. Decent price too.

There’s also this. It’s an off brand (but I mean 90% of stuff comes from China anyway) and the brush bristles are soft.

This too. I don’t know how good microfiber is on wheels though. I personally have one similar to this that I bought in a kit from Costco, and use it for interior. But with a true brush style you can just rinse it out, vs microfiber that’s stains and needs to be washed.

There’s also this one. I’m pretty sure Canadian Tire has a smaller one to, but I can’t seem to see it on the site. Was in a store a few weeks ago and I think I saw one.


For something like wheels and tires, I don’t really see a point in spending crazy money on brushes. That may be an insult to people, but just as a hobby, I care that my rims are clean. For paint I use good towels and mitts (obviously to not scratch the paint) but for wheels, I’d rather save the money. I haven’t felt a good pro quality wheel brush vs a random one from Amazon or in-store, but even if I did, I don’t see how I’d justify the price difference (compared to something like a Eagle Edgeless 500 vs some random microfiber towel)

Wet them, spray with something like this, then apply some elbow grease with something like this. Rinse and dry.

I'm honestly a little shocked a shop would give you the car back like that. When I was detailing for a living, there were very few cars I detailed that I couldn't get all the water spots off of, but even those never looked as bad as that when I was done. I hope you didn't have to pay much for that.


Having said that, [Meguiar's Ultimate Compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/) is what I would use. It's probably the most newbie friendly cutting compound that I've used, but there is still the chance of burning through the paint with it. I would probably go to another detail shop and see what they could do.

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

This + a buffer has worked wonders for me:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

It says it "Fills and hides scratches, swirl marks and spiderwebbing" meaning once the polish evaporates (from sun exposure eventually) the swirls will re-appear, it doesn't seem to be a permanent cure.

I.e. to REMOVE the swirls you will need to use an abrasive enough compound to remove enough clear coat to get to the base of the swirls. For super-light swirls Meguiars Ultimate Compound shouldwork, even by hand, but if they are significant swirls, use Meguiars swirl remover with a polisher and light pad.

Maybe try using a very light cutting Polish or Compound and buffing it out with a Dual action buffer.

Yes, I can attest to Meguiers ultimate solution. It works wonders on your clearcoat after a rough winter. My paint is now baby-ass smooth.

Link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001O7PNNM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426609971&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+ultimate&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

If you don't go the tempered glass route try buying Novus. It's a great plastic polishing compound. It should be able to get rid of the scratches.

Normally I would stabilize stuff with a vacuum chamber (details on my setup here)

With these I didn't bother since I needed them right away. I grabbed some really horrible scraps of the spalted maple and shaped/sanded. Bits were trying to fall off so I grabbed Solarez and did a few coats, curing with my little UV gel manicure light for three minutes between coats. Once that was done I sanded out the lumpy spots and took it to 600 grit. I then polished it with Novus #2 polish...boom, done.

Even with the minimal amount of effort I put into the handles, they turned out amazing. In the future I could spend a little more time and have a perfect finish in less than a day. The resin is what they coat pool sticks and surfboards with so the handles feel like that...not the same as a linseed finish but not totally plastic feeling, either.

Fun fact : You can use plastic polish and a soft cloth or sock to get better results than a buffing machine can offer in most instances. Those machines sometimes make read issues worse. I recommend Novus #2.

Four or so drops on a disc rubbed in with tight circular wipes works wonders.

I wouldn't expect a miracle, but I wonder if Novus Plastic Polish is worth a try? Or—in all serousness here—try polishing it with toothpaste.

I did high end picture framing for many years and this is the best way to polish acrylic: Novus

You can use this to get the plexi top back to it's brand new condition.

Not all is lost

I recommend using a plastic polish. You can do it by hand but if you have a drill, or even better a random orbital buffer it goes pretty quickly.

Out of all the products I've tried, I have the best results with a multi-step system. This one works really well.

You can get some of the haze out, and some of the lighter swirls and scratches, but you'll never put that brand new and poppin' look back into something that's been well used. Plastic is just not made to last like that.

https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

I've used this on PTZ domes that have gotten scratched up. It worked very well. It was a fuckload of work.

Sure, I use this set. I start with #1, the blue bottle, and give the plastic a general cleaning, just to make sure there aren't any particles on the plastic that are going to gouge. After that, I use #2 (the red bottle) and a lint free cloth and just rub the hell out of the plastic. You should always try to polish at 90 degree angles so you don't end up with streaks. By that I mean polish in one direction, then polish 90 degrees different from that direction. Once I'm satisfied with that, I give it another polishing with #1.

If you really do have a scratch they can be removed with something like this if you are very very careful.

https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

If you are using glasses you probably should look at getting lens protectors. Links to product in description of images

https://imgur.com/a/UCztP78

The only one I can vouch for is the Novus plastic polishing compound. It's what they use on stormtrooper armor when it gets worn due to use. There is probably more out there but I haven't researched.

https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=plastic+polish&qid=1574106934&sprefix=plastic+poli&sr=8-3

Use the finest polish you can.

As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.

Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.

As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)

Here, NZXT is not going to help you, they are going to be too busy trying to damage control their HUE+'s frying peoples' PCs.

Polish: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002UCYRZU/

for scratches I highly recommend this stuff used it to get scratches from my Vive

https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU

Depending on how deep the scratches are, you could probably use some Meguires' plastic polish to clean it up.

I've also heard good things about this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002UCYRZU/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502047687&sr=8-2-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=meguires+plastic+polish But have never used it, personally.

I personally use Novus shine products:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU/

Plastic polish works really well. I've been using this one by Novus

You could try something like Novus Plastic Polish (change the .com to .de , .co.uk , or whichever you prefer using in Sweden). Honestly not sure if it will remove those fine scratches though or if even using it with a microfiber cloth would make it worse. May be worth a shot though if you don't want to pay to have a replacement shipped.

If it doesn't work/gets worse, I'd recommend mnpctech's replacement window. High quality acrylic that won't scratch nearly as easily. They do international orders via email and paypal so I'm not sure how much it would end up being for you...

Had the same thing happen on Vive lense, im not sure if its different than index.
I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and it worked great. I only used the number 2 soultion and then the number 1.

I got this one - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GIG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Microfiber-Cleaning-Absorbent-Detailing-green/dp/B00MQM0KB4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TTL0TE/ref=psdcmw_15718691_t2_B00MQM0KB4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BQYCKE8/ref=psdcmw_15718691_t1_B00MQM0KB4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0128S0FS8/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1491827279&sr=8-5&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=clay+bar

And a M3 wax that I found on a local supermarket.

Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.

Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.

Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205

These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months

"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."

Ryobi wand. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QMKHNM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nN08Ab1AVTA48

Foam cannon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798NQTQS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.N08AbJNV28Y7

Home Depot buckets. https://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Home-Depot-5-Gal-Homer-Bucket-05GLHD2/100087613

Wash mitt. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IQ08Ab8VGZPNJ

Soap. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AFBXQNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dS08AbSYF7T4H

Pressure washer. https://m.harborfreight.com/1750-psi-13-electric-pressure-washer-63255.html



Micro fiber rags/towel can be had at AutoZone or O'Reilly's. I suggest getting a pack with multiple colors and dedicate a color to windows, front of the car, above the belt line and below the belt line. Then a big microfiber drying towel or two. Somewhere around $20 for all that depending on where you go.

Also check out r/harborfreight for a coupon. 20% are pretty common.

Soap is lubrication it helps the dirt glide over the paint, where as if you had no soap you would just be pushing the dirt into the paint causing scratches. Also sponges are bad use a chenille wash mitt like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TTL0TE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485112376&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+mitt&dpPl=1&dpID=5133hxCtSML&ref=plSrch

If you need any other advice I'd be happy to help

I have quite a process now for this car.

I use the 2 bucket method with the following:

• 2x Home Depot Bucket
  
• Grit Guard
  
• Wash Mitt
  
• Soap
  
• Cleaning Sprayer
  
• 50+ Microfiber Cleaning Cloth Pack (I just got these at Costco)
  
  My Process
  
  

1. Put Grit Guard in one bucket, fill that with just water
   
2. Put soap / water in other bucket (mixture ratio depends on what kind of soap you have)
   
3. Rinse the car off with the hose
   
4. Use the Cleaning Sprayer to get the first layer of dirt off
   
5. Rinse the car off
   
6. Take the wash mitt, dunk in water bucket and scrub on the grit guard, then ring out
   
7. Dunk wash mitt in soap bucket, lather it up
   
8. Wash one panel of the car in one direction with the wash mitt
   
9. Hose down that panel of the car
   
10. Repeat steps 6-9 for each panel of the car
    
11. Once car is washed, use the cleaning sprayer all over the car one last time
    
12. Rinse entire car
    
13. Take microfiber cloth and carefully dry each panel with a different cloth (sometimes 2), going in one direction
    
    Extra stuff:
    
    

• I also use a generic glass cleaner and take a microfiber cloth and do each window as well
  
  At first this took me almost 2 hours to wash my car, but after doing it every other week I'm now down to only an hour. It's extreme but it's detailed and allows me to also check if there are any rock chips, which I can then cover with some touch up paint.
  
  
  
  
  

Here's one that's Prime http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_201_BRUSH_MD-Surface-Attachment/dp/B003TU662Y/ref=pd_sbs_hg_1

I feel like a Mother's Powerball would work too, those are available in any auto store. http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05140-PowerBall-Polishing-Tool/dp/B0007RDVD4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1377867706&sr=1-1&keywords=mothers+powerball

Amazon has some too. Not sure how much shipping is but some are available on prime. I got this one which is softer for carpets but works great on bathroom soap scum.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TU662Y/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=1535523722&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0051C02OG&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0AQY6CXKQEQ29DK8MYKC

/r/AutoDetailing would be a good place to ask too, I would for see some answers would be what /u/LexusBrian400 has already said, plus;

Dub

Iron X

That's just off the top of my head.

Sure!

• Foam cannon. Works on basic pressure washers despite the GPM flow it calls for.
  
• Soap

Yep, except I bought this

I have this pressure washer

This guy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CE78VO8?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_t2

I have this and it works fine https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CE78VO8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank you! I didn't realize that the clouds and sky would open up like that at the end. Here's the cannon I used MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle with Chemical Guys Pink Suds

Hello,

I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!

Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:

So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:

I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 or

this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1

Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy

These?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.

Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?

I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!

Thanks

Tim

How do I get the paint on the right side of this picture looking like the left?

https://imgur.com/tL3kCaW

I bought the car used, neglected and abused. I've patched up the mechanical bits and I want to get my paint looking nicer, and hopefully uniform. My issue is that on certain parts of the vehicle the paint doesn't have much depth to it, but if I look on the inside of the doors, the paint is a deep beautiful color.

Would this be a good kit for it?

Mother's Clay Bar + Meguiar's Compound, Polish, and Wax

I'm not expert in the physics of paint and materials, but the Mothers bars wouldn't have moved very much without much force, and shearing against the dry paint.

I'd suggest the mothers kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397154469&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+clay+bar

I just followed the instructions and took my time. It went well. I've done 3 cars since purchasing. Still have 3/4 life left in the 2nd bar. No more spray way left, but I had another brand's spray wax on hand. Seems to work just as well as the spray contained in the kit. I assume most spray waxes are lubricating enough to let the bar slide over the paint and remove dirt etc...

https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

That or a different brand.

If you have a free weekend and really feel like getting your car clean, get a claybar kit like this, and after that's done, give it a nice wax. You will be pretty amazed at how smooth and slick the paint is after this.

You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.

I used Meguiar's cleaner wax about a month ago, after washing and clay baring. Today I just used the quick detailer that came with the clay bar kit, after washing of course!

Meguiar's A1214 Cleaner Wax - Paste - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQX0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6SmnzbV4JRVER

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WTmnzb8AET2XB

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

Something like this? If so that would be able to remove the other paint around the car from two other dings the car got well before my ownership. I was planning to polish the whole thing eventually as well

Never clayed car before. Is this ok?

Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bQmUDbVM3CXDP

Wash, then clay, then wax?

You need to clay bar the paint and then wax/seal it. If you park your car outside, this will need to be done regularly.

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y

https://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/

What do you mean by air blower/sheeting? I have tried an air compressor and the pressure is just too high and breaks up the beads of water bit doesn't really blow them off. But yeah I need to get the buckets and grit guards and the sheepskin wash mitt. I have been using a microfiber sponge thing kind of like this. What kind of cloth do you recommend for applying wax and what brand wax? I have been using some wax that came with the vehicle but I'm just about out and I've been applying it with some microfiber wax applicator towels from O'Reill. Also how often should I wash the wax applicators and how?

I was just at Walmart and picket up some of this, not sure if it's recommended or not. I also got one of these but I'm not really sure of the purpose of it, I just keep hearing people talking about using "clay bar"¿?.

Sorry for the wall of questions, but like I said I'm really new to this and would greatly appreciate of you could answer most of them (if not all)

Because of the Prime Day deals I decided to pick up a few different products without knowing too much. I bought: Optimum No Rinse, Mothers Clay Bar System, Microfiber Clothes, Liquid Wax Paint Sealant, and Hybrid Wax.

My quick understanding is that the recommended process is: wash > clay > wash > wax. In terms of these products, does that mean:

ONR wash > Mothers Clay (should I use their lube or just the ONR water?) > ONR wash > Liquid Wax > Hybrid Wax

Just want to make sure I follow the right order so I can start to keep my car in good shape. How often should I clay? What about the sealant and the wax?

Thanks!

This is the link to the one I got costs a lot less. Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W.vKAbHYWEWSK

And here's the exact lens cleaner spray. Set of 2 Carl Zeiss Lens Cleaning Spray 2oz - 60ml Travel Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JFD6KAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8bwKAbYQA3VMW

A couple things that I've read here that I want to clear up. The fresnal ridges are not on the side of the lens that you look through, they are on the other side so you're not sanding that down you're sanding down a side that is supposed to be smooth. If the scratches on your lens are not visible in the hmd then obviously you don't *need to do anything, unless you're like me and just can't stand scratches.

Proceed with caution but a pro tip - it doesn't matter. You'll be happier after the scratches are gone. Also get yourself a small thumb sized led flashlight. You can hold it in near the lenses to better see the scratches. Enjoy the clarity...

So this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E

Polishing sheets
www.amazon.com/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oJMttb14VTZ9R

Simichrome
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_jKMttb1EX6ENW

Renaissance Wax Polish 65ml
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AJWN62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RKMttb1YM5YXC

arnauba Wax
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NMMttb1MPHYVW

And if you really want it to shine, the steel wool + [simichrome] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_ejWgub1RK0D7Z) . It's a metal polish and works amazing. Plus makes it for easier cleaning on the next application. A little bit goes a long way.

No, there is no one product that is going to do it all for you - Especially not over an extended period of time. Most of the time I use either FrogLube, or Ray's Gun Wax on the outside of my EDC Glocks. Sometimes, and for shorter time periods, I'll use either Break-Free, Ballistol, or pharmaceutical grade Mineral Oil. For, 'safe queens' that go untouched for extended lengths of time I like to use: FrogLube, Ray's Gun Wax, or Sentry Solutions, 'Tuf-Glide'.

I always clean my EDC Glock bores with a brush, patch, and either of these chemically identical products: Flitz Metal Polish, Simichrome Metal Polish, or Iosso Bore Cleaner. (Be careful with the last two products on the outside of a blued gun - OK!) Afterwards I'll run an isopropyl alcohol soaked patch through the bore, and then final coat it with Sentry Solutions, 'Smooth-Kote'.

On Glock's well know internal lubrication points I like to use one drop of Lucas Gun Oil which seems to have an affinity for metal and stays put very well.

Try Simichrome. I found that it works great on flat areas on silver. Use a soft cloth and the compound.

Simichrome 390050 All Metal Polish Tube - 1.76 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S2d8CbHMHRMM5

They one on the left is raw aluminum, and the two stacked up are nickel. I did a titanium that just arrived last week with the same polish as well, but it didn't seem to do much for that material, but it totally blasts out nickel and aluminum. :)

I use Semichrome polish

https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-390050-Metal-Polish-Tube/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525812594&sr=8-1&keywords=simichrome+polish

This is correct. I'd start with Clay like this though:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

You can also find it at local auto parts stores. It will help remove any above-surface damage, and will do a good job of showing you what you're working with.

I'm planning on getting this clay kit to get some surface rust spots off of my car. Does the Quik Detailer work as a wax/sealant or is it just for lubrication while claying? If it's just for lube what wax/sealant/applicators would you guys recommend? I'm not looking to spend a lot. Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG


https://detailingconnect.com/products/griots-garage-bug-smudge-remover?variant=51995413191&utm_campaign=gs-2018-08-16&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg-utvoPo3QIVDLjACh0PHwIvEAQYAiABEgJCEPD_BwE


Do these products ( Griots big and smudge remover/ McGuire’s Quick detailer) remove Collonite 845 / powerlock

I used Griots clay and used Griots Speed Shine as clay lube.

Meguiars makes a great clay kit though that you can find at any autoparts store.

I should mention that I did also polish the car earlier this summer. So, it has had some extra care.

https://smile.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-016-AutoScrub-Fine-Grade/dp/B00DOS0LH2?sa-no-redirect=1

http://adamspolishes.com/shop/exterior/polishing/adam-s-visco-clay-bar.html

https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG?sa-no-redirect=1

Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!

1st: Nice two bucket cleaning

2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?

3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)

4: Nice coat of wax

How does that sound?

Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.

Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;

ONR

iK Sprayer

Iron X

TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack

Mother's Tire Brush

ABN Wheel Woolies

Stoner's Reach Tool

Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.

Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?

Eraser is a fantastic product but it's expensive. For your needs I would rather purchase this gallon of APC. It can be used diluted 4:1 for your wheels and tires and it can be used on any stubborn areas on the paint as well. It can also be diluted 10:1 for your interior. To use it to strip wax, put a few ounces of it in your soap bucket with your soap and wash as usual.

Your order of operations would be this:

1. Wash - wheels and tires first, then body
   
   
2. Clay bar - you can use your soap in your soap bucket for this as well provided it is not overly contaminated. Be sure to use grit guards in both buckets
   
   
3. Polish (if you would like) - after you polish use a dilution of Isopropyl alcohol and water to strip the polishing oils off the paint with a microfiber cloth.
   
   
4. Apply your last step products, sealants, waxes....

Meguiar's D101 All Purpose Cleaner Is 16 for a gallon which you dilute. Goes a long way!

Personally, I use Meguiar's D101 though if you don't want to buy a whole gallon of concentrate Chemical Guys All Clean + is also good. The AC+ is a concentrate too, even though it comes in a spray bottle.

Just found this on amazon. Not quite $10 for shipping.

Meguiar's D10101 Detailer All Purpose Cleaner Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_ePumxbW5DM0W1

I'm a total noob and have no business comment here, but maybe this:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D17001-Hyper-Dressing-Gallon/dp/B0006SH4PA

?
Edit: meant to post this:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-All-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1XEKSX5N1PS0KJG1E1Y7

Thanks, maybe I'll just get something like this then: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE

Spray some of this on them, and I kid you not... the dirt just slides right off.

It. Is. Amazing.

I use it to clean every single thing inside my car, including the weathertechs. And it can be used as an engine detailer.

What equipment and supplies do you have already? If any.

Off the top of my head here are a few of the basics.

Meguiars D101 APC

Good Wet/Dry Shop Vac.

Stoner Invisible Glass

Adam's Polishes Interior Mitt

The Rag Company Edgeless 300

The Rag Company Glass Towels

Pressure washer or Strong hose spray. (For cleaning Carpets outside of vehicle.)

Bissell Spot Clean Auto

That is more than enough to get you started. Ill add more as I have time.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I would check with r/autodetailing first, but I think they like automotive specific all purpose cleaner and an interior brush. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505776624&sr=8-3&keywords=Car+all+purpose+cleaner I don't know if it's the best, but autodetailing recommended it and I got it. It seems to work. You can wet dry vac it out.

So I am looking into buying some detailing supplies for doing wheels and was hoping someone could look over this list. It is probably overkill, but I would rather have everything I need I think.

Brushes

ABN Wheel Whoolies

Boars Hair Detail Brush Set

Mothers Wheel Brush

Cleaners

Iron X

Meguiars Hot Shine Gloss Tire Spray

Meguiars D101 APC

The total comes out to $113 but I figured I would only be buying most of these items once so it will be worth it. Also this list doesnt even have any sort of sealant so not sure if I should buy one of those also?

I'm planning to write a post in the interior soon but for now...

The first step is to give everything a really good going over with a vacuum. This is where you need to spend most of your time. Almost everything that's not leather can be cleaned with an All Purpose Cleaner (UK link and US link):
Spray it on, agitate with a brush (ordinary paint brush will do). Then...

If it's fabric - vacuum with a wet-dry vac (use a cloth if you don't have one)
If it's trim - wipe dry with a microfibre (UK link and US link)

To protect things I really like 303 Aerospace Protectant... it protects against fading caused by UV radiation (UK link and US link)

Leather is a different kettle of fish and you need to use a cleaner then a conditioner (UK link and US link)

I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.

I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.

Yup that’s exactly what i used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gb4kDbS54XQ5W
This stuff is amazing!

If this is aluminum go with this one. One of my favorite products!

They also have mag/aluminum wheel polish for almost half off. I really recommend this stuff. I have cheap aluminum american racing wheels on my jeep and this stuff makes them look real good.

http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=lp_2596858011_1_16?srs=2596858011&ie=UTF8&qid=1393773460&sr=8-16

On my personal vehicle i clean them with soap and water. Then i use either a powerball or a Cotton buffing pad with Mothers mag polish. Take your time and it will look amazing.

I would give this a try

Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish works well too. I use it all the time for my mods and other assorted things.

Your mother usually does a good job cleaning my blow holes

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y

They are called finger pump oil cans. Thanks for making me look that up!

First thing I did was scrub it down with some 000 steel wool and Goo Gone. I've never honestly seen anyone else use this combination but it works amazing on aluminum, steel, plated metals and tons of other stuff.

After I got all of the grim off I wiped it down with some all purpose cleaner.

Next I put a buffing ball on my drill and used some Mothers Aluminum polish. After a few pases with the mothers I cleaned off the ball, and finished out with some Blue Magic 400. The Mothers polish has a small amount of abrasive which helped smooth out what the steel wool did and the Blue Magic 400 has no abrasive and leaves a longer lasting protective coat then the Mothers. I have found you can make just about anything look new with this quick and easy method. Check out how nice it cleaned up the shocks on my bike Album.

http://www.amazon.com/MOTHERS-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382723868&sr=8-1&keywords=mags+aluminum+polish they sell it at walmart, it won't make it like it was out of the box but it can get it shiny again but be prepared to be at it for awhile. Imo just leave it be

When it's time to polish the metal, head to your local version of Walmart or Amazon and pick up some aluminum polish. I use Mother's. It's strong enough to work on the metals harmonicas use, but also pretty gentle. Just rub that on and if your cloth starts going black it's working. Get that elbow grease going and every few minutes wipe it off so you can see your progress. Repeat until fine scratches are gone and it's shiny new.

If you have deeper scratches, then you'll need to use sandpaper in increasingly finer grades first. 120 -> 220 -> 400 -> 1000 -> aluminum polish will take a seriously messed up cover plate to shiny new in about 15 minutes total. It's pretty easy to do.

This pack of sandpaperwill do hundreds of harps

Mother's polish

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_T.uHzbMVDV4PZ plus a lil’ elbow grease

Ok, I was having a TON of problems with adhesion with PLA, and a fair deal of issues with PETG on the textured sheet. I tried it all: Lower Z, 99% alcohol, dish soap, increased bed temp. Everything was coming loose after a few layers, or warping (or warping worse with the higher bed temp). It would still warp with a 2cm brim.
I was seriously considering tossing the textured sheet because it was completely useless for me, so I tried a more drastic approach. I figured that acetone was risking chemically changing the surface (which is why they warn against it), so I decided instead to physically change the surface.
I got some "Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish" and softly polished one side of the textured sheet. This stuff has an extremely fine grit in it (aluminum oxide), and it scuffed/polished the top layer of the powder coat. I didn't polish too hard, I didn't want to change the look or texture of the sheet. After that, I washed the surface thoroughly with dish soap, dried it with towels, did a pass with the 99% alcohol, then heated the bet to 80c for a few min.
The difference was night and day. PLA sticks incredibly well (nozzle 200c, bed 50c), but still easily pops off with a light bend of the sheet. It didn't change the surface texture of the sheet at all, you still get that nice textured finish. I haven't tested PETG on it yet, but considering how well the PLA sticks, I'll only want to only do small test parts first until I have confidence that the bigger parts will actually pop off (I still have the reverse side of the sheet for PETG in case this polished side works too well). I've accumulated about 50h of printing on the polished textured sheet now without issue.
WARNING: Mothers contains petroleum distillates. I'm not a chemist, but I may have in the end actually chemically changed my textured sheet anyways (similar to what using acetone would have done). I don't know if there will be long term issues with this method, but in my case, I at least turned a useless textured sheet into something I can actually use for a bit.
This is the stuff I used: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y

Thank you. Is this the one?

Mother's 05101 Mag and Aluminum Polished Metal, 283 g https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_CPZQCb0V7JHCW

I use mother's aluminum polish on my exhaust tips. It works great!

Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e84-AbXQ7GWW2

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

• Wash car with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash ($7)
  
• Apply Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ($14) which will clean and polish your paint job and remove scratches/oxidation.
  
• Wax paint with Turtle Wax ($6) to get a clean shine and protection against the elements
  
• Buy some Mother's Back-to-Black Plastic & Trim Restorer ($8) and use to restore plastic trim to something closer to its original condition.

Hence why I still don't use a foam cannon or foam gun. If I have a bunch of caked on crud, I have a pump bug spray thing I use to spray Simple Green/soap mixture onto the area (usually wheel wells, tires, wheels).

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

Love me some Meguiar's.

Here is a schedule and product list I've compiled. The first sheet is my routine and the other tabs are products with links to (mostly) Amazon pages.
This has been built over several years of detailing with some recent additions specifically for the Sub (namely the Menzerna Micro Polish 4500 which is better for the softer paint).
I use 1Z shampoo and wax only because I don't pay for it. If I were buying those myself, I'd use Meguiar's Gold Class and Collinite 845 for wax.

As lifetrees mentioned, check out /r/autodetailing, read the links to the right for product reviews and how-to's, learn the 2 bucket method, and check out some videos on things like polishing and waxing as these can be difficult to do properly on a dark color vehicle as they show every imperfection in the paint.

Pick up some of this

It smells absolutely awful but it will remove the iron deposits in the paint and wheels and leave a cleaner surface to work with. I would clay bar the paint after as well. It sprays on clear and turns purple when it is working. Well worth the price especially since you can use it to remove brake dust from your wheels during washes.

https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Sprayer/dp/B004UM6DLE

go check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info.

You can use Iron X followed by a clay bar.

Time wise if it’s what I think it is hard to say, Few weeks to a month maybe?

As I say if it’s what I think it is, it’s ‘hot’ metal that’s landed on the glass from an angle grinder or welding spatter.

You should be able to improve on it with something like the below to remove the ‘rusting’ of the particles, but if damage has been done to the glass you won’t fix that.

https://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Sprayer/dp/B004UM6DLE

Good question for r/autodetailing.

Iron-x is my go-to for cleaning wheels and removing contaminants from paint.

Unfortunately car care can be somewhat expensive when you use the right products. I have a 2013 EX in SWP, so my garage is full of detailing products. Polishes, sealants, cleaners. You name, I've probably got it.

For calipers:
https://vvividshop.com/products/vvivid-red-enamel-wrap-heat-resistant

For the rims:
https://smile.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Sprayer/dp/B004UM6DLE?sa-no-redirect=1
and then
https://smile.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_303-8-Ounce-Sealant/dp/B001THV9D0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1505942169&sr=1-1&keywords=wheel+guard

Thanks Popkins. I was confused because carpro 's site Click Herestates as such but Amazon specifically warns against Click Here using it on chrome & bare medals.

I somehow didn't run notice any of those...just got the regular one. Can't imagine how cherry or lemon could help the scent lol.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love it. Spray it on, rub it in with my spoke brush, and power wash it off. The wheels come out perfectly clean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004UM6DLE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482198400&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=carpro+iron+x&dpPl=1&dpID=31Fqwzjw6oL&ref=plSrch

Sounds like you need a clay bar. Or my favorite, a Nanoskin sponge.

How sticky/tacky should my nanoskin sponge be? After doing the recommended break-in, I never got the white or foam/bubbles they described and it is definitely not tacky. At the edges of the rubber, it sticks a little, but the overall face of it never changed.

Can you feel anything when you move your fingers over it? It may be worth asking r/AutoDetailing. Another option is to use a nanoskin which works like a clay bar.

Just get something from a reputable brand. Meguiar's is good and readily available. Another option you have is using a Nanoskin sponge, which does the same thing as clay, but can be re-used and can be rinsed off if you drop it on the ground, where with clay, if you drop it that piece of clay is done.

I’ve heard bad things about the clay mitts. Supposedly they fall apart instantly. Try this guy : Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CUAWJ6G. I spray the car heavily with ONR (two cap fulls into a 32 ounce spray bottle, fill the rest with water). Then I brush every section both horizontally an MF vertically with this sponge. If you drop the sponge just dip it in a bucket of water to get everything off. Smooth as glass afterwards. Top it off with some Collinite 845 and your whip will be looking tippy top!!

I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.

As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.

Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.

Yes you can use that one, I actually have this one. I bought a two pack in case something happens with one so I'll have one on hand.

The interior was easy. Vacuum, wiped down with Nextzett Cockpit Premium, and dressed some parts with 303. The only bad thing was I was vacuuming in the sun, so it was hot af. The paint had oxidation, but the owner didn't have much time so I only washed it and sealed it with Sonax Polymer Net Shield.

It is an 05. Paint is in decent condition but a lot of contamination. It was sitting under a sap tree for 2 years. I spent about an hour claying the hood and it removed maybe 70% but there was a lot of stuff. I was using chemical guys clay.

Thank you..glad you said something :)

Like this

When using a clay bar alternative like this, do you apply it the same as you would a clay bar? Wet the surface with an auto detailing spray, then gently pass back and forth with the bar until it slides smoothly?

Hello!

So I've been lurking here for several weeks trying to soak up what I can. I've checked out the wiki page on starter kits and I guess I'm just wondering a couple things based on the list to get myself going.

Gonna get the buckets and the grit guards. I've got a ton of microfibers I use for my car already.

I was thinking of getting the Griot's DA polisher recommended (here)[https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-10813STDCRD-Orbital-Polisher/dp/B009UKUUWE/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462198536&sr=1-1&keywords=griots+da+polisher&linkCode=ll1&linkId=3a68733089f6c8d0f136c31b5c3bb8d1]

I guess I'm wondering what chemicals I should be using on my vehicle?

I do live in an apartment complex though so I DO NOT have access to a hose because our landlord has got it under lock and key. I read a few days ago about a product that someone used outside and it was still ok (though I do have access to a garage!).

I guess I'm just more lost as to where to start besides the DA polisher.

edit: Oh! I've used a clay bar before and while it was nice, I was wondering about this nanoskin sponge that's also recommended.

https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1462198361&sr=1-1&keywords=nanoskin&linkCode=ll1&linkId=4c532041fcdbfa6b35f768083c70423e

Is that like a 1:1 sub for clay bars? Same thing just not wasted if dropped?

I believe clay bar qualities are different. Just like with most stuff, generally the higher the quality, the more expensive it is. The cheaper ones I've worked with have streaked heavily and more often. Depending on the vehicles condition, and how often you detail, a clay bar can last a long time. This CLAYBAR is pretty cheap & plenty of people like it. For a clay sponge it does the job.

Did you not decontaminate the paint with clay or alternative??!

Oh boy. Your paint is supposed to feel VERY smooth after a wash, clay, and wax. Here's a review of a nanoskin sponge which is 100% worth it I wrote. My car feels so smooth it's ridiculous.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CUAWJ6G/

http://www.reddit.com/r/AutoDetailing/comments/2bjc99/the_best_10_ive_spent_detailing_nanoskin/

Not decontaminating your paint also results in you rubbing abrasive particles into your clear coat and swirling it.

Here's my advice-

1. Buy the nanoskin product I linked
   
   
2. Wash your car with dawn dish soap. This strips and existing wax so you can get back under it.
   
   
3. Dry the car.
   
   
4. Use the nanoskin sponge and decontaminate the entire surface of your car.
   
   
5. Protect with wax or sealant.

So my first ever detail is planned out like is this

1. Foam Cannon wash + rinse
   
2. ONR Rinseless wash + dry
   
3. ONR Lube + Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
   
4. Meguiars ScratchX 2.0 Polish and buff off with MF towel
   
5. Wax
   
   My understanding is polish basically scrapes a layer off in order to go deep, is there anything i need to "refill" that digging?
   
   Does my order of detailing sound good, in other words do i need to add anything else?

wax for the interior? I was thinking of the 3m style spray on plastic stuff that I assumed was used on the seats and other surfaces to prevent dust buildup.


The brush is the Nanoskin (AS-019) AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge http://amzn.com/B00CUAWJ6G

obviously should have called it a sponge!

I used Optimum No Rinse during the winter time, because it allows for small parts of the car at a time, without requiring rinse.

But invest is a Waffle Weave Drying Towel, a couple bucket's from wal-mart (like $2.50 a bucket) and some Grit Guards for each bucket and your in business. You can use any soft wash mitt, and there are a lot of different brands and styles out there, and I also recommend a Detailer or Wax (I prefer quick detailer during winter-times so I can just spray and wipe and it keeps the snow and crap off for a good amount of time.)

I personally like Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. Just spray it on your clean spot, rub it in all over, then single wipe it off with the dry side of the terry cloth, and you get some bead action next time it rains!

Optimum no rinse.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3b1rtb1ACB9NB

Have you looked into rinseless? I use this product:

https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473376077&sr=8

I use about 2-3 gallons of water that I fill up at my bathtub and I can wash my entire car in less than an hour.

Get some OPT and keep a spray bottle in your car with some micro fiber towels (Costco has cheap ones). Can use this stuff on basically anything in the car too; seats, paint, and dash

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "OPT"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

I'd go with this much more economical size:

https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/

I haven't used the chemical guys version, but ONR seems to be loved by detailer nerds the most out of any of the products.

I use a meguiar's microfiber wash mitt or the ONR sponge make ( https://smile.amazon.com/Optimum-22516-Big-Wash-Sponge/dp/B078DPCYFV )

One bucket method if car isn't that dirty. If really dirty, I'd use two. I do full washes about 60% of the time because my ceramic coating has degraded down to where a lot of dirt remains behind if I drive through rain and I like using my power washer. When I do that I use the same wash mitt or red sponge. The wash mitt is much easier to clean (laundry) than the big red sponge (hand wash usually), but the big red sponge is maybe a bit more mar preventative.

https://www.amazon.com/OPT-Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

Buy a bottle of Optimum No Rinse (abbreviated ONR). you only need 1/2oz per gallon, so you are looking at 64 gallons of detail spray per 32oz bottle. Just take a brand new gallon of distilled water, put a capfull of ONR in it, then transfer some to a spray bottle and go to town.

you can spray a panel and wipe with a microfiber cloth to do a quick waterless wash or touch-up. And since ONR is a water softener, if you miss some when drying, it wont leave any spots.

ONR is pretty much a miracle product in the detailing industry and i wouldnt trust any detailer that doesnt have atleast a gallon of the stuff onhand at all times.

Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LzV7Cb04NMNGN

This? Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_svdDCbTFXBRKF

1 or 2 buckets, Lake Country sponge, Optimum No Rise & Shine, nice double mist sprayer, and like 10-15 micofibers and you'll be set.

buckets + sponge for monthly washes, sprayer + microfibers for touch ups every couple days.

Just to confirm, ONR?

Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U

Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO

And would both work while using clay for decontamination?

Optimum No Rinse & Shine has worked wonders... all with 1 capful in 1 gallon of water. https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO

Yep, that's exactly it. Get a 32oz bottle of it and just dilute it at 1:16 with distilled water. You can use it to clean the wheel, as well as the other interior parts. It works great on the faux carbon fiber because other interior cleaners with UV protectants leave streaks that are hard to get off the shiny plastic. The ONR works great, you can use it to quickly wipe off the outside of your car too.

There’s waterless car wash products you can use. I can’t do a hose wash at my place either, but I found this stuff and it works really well. My car gets super dirty and it does a good job, but it takes a bit longer than a traditional wash. There’s a bunch out there, but here’s the one I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/

I use this similar product as well: https://www.amazon.com/Waterless-Ounces-Aircraft-Motorcycle-Anywhere/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=pd_cp_263_1?pd_rd_w=8Sjr4&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=DNBK8RZ46BJESWMTEZ5J&pd_rd_r=e01d83bc-a4fa-470f-9045-0bb026fa8fda&pd_rd_wg=vqHoF&pd_rd_i=B00X04JRMU&psc=1&refRID=DNBK8RZ46BJESWMTEZ5J

It does a really nice job and smells nice while applying it.

Touchless washes and waterless washes.

This stuff is magic:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_S2rDDb0JFKA8H

Also, this stuff is amazing. It takes about 10-15 minutes to keep up the shine and can be used on all surfaces.

link!

Hinges to make my trunk open fully automatically, on unlock. 10 min install.

Cup holder inserts

waterless wash kit

Tesla-recommended wipes for the seats

Tesla Floor Mats

PPF on front and rockers

Tint

USB stick for dashcam

Trunk liner

Abstract Ocean “T E S L A” Performance Emblem (to replace rear T logo

Tempered Glass Screen Protector for display

Tesla High Power Wall Connector

I have a problem.

Hey all,

So I just bought a new to me 2016 f150 with blue jeans color paint. Since this car was more expensive than anything I've ever bought besides my house I want to take care of it as best as I can. For context I live in MI and during the winter will have a garage (that isn't heated) and will have space to clean the car, but no access to a hose or whatever for hosing down the car in the winter.

As far as I can see there is one paint chip on the hood and a few very small scratches by the door handle (they aren't very deep at all). There is some swirls on the window pillars, but there doesn't appear to be any swirling in the paint itself.

I'm having a hard time figuring out how to keep it clean and looking good outside of taking it to a mechanical car wash and then touching it up with some chemical guys vintage quick detailer to prevent water spots.

I don't know if I should do the whole wash, clay bar, and then wax, or if I can just wash and then use a waterless wash/wax combo.

I don't want to do any polishing/cutting work if I don't have to to get the car up to snuff as I don't really trust myself with that.

Basically my idea was to use a regular car wash on the car, and then use something like this: Aero Cosmetics Waterless Car Wash/Wax. to protect it.

Is that not right? Should I wash, claybar and then apply a dedicated wax? I've never waxed a car and am a bit worried about doing it wrong.

Any advice on keeping this as simple and budget friendly as possible? I have a lot of microfiber cloths (Kirkland) as well as window waffle cloths. Just wondering about what else to do and what else to buy.

Thanks for the help and sorry for asking something so simple, this stuff is just so confusing to me!

What about this:

Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 oz. Aircraft Quality Wash Wax for your Car RV & Boat. Guaranteed Best Waterless Wash on the Market https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LU9wzbMKHS002

I configured 2 months ago and edit button is still
there. Probably because I ordered AWD (non performance) with white seats. It also depends on your reservation number, if you were a previous owner and your location. Some people order long range models are getting them way faster than expected due to so many folks opting for AWD variants since they became available in late July (pent up demand).

As for car washes, everything I’ve read in the forum says only if it’s a laser no touch car wash. Most people recommend hand washing with two bucket method or something like this product below. The issue with traditional car wash machines is it leaves micro abrasions in the paint. Some people care, others don’t. Also, many folks are also paying a premium for paint protection film and/or ceramic coating. I’m planning to use the wash mentioned below and likely get paint protection film only on the front half of the car body.

Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SJvLBbV9TYKZ0

How about this? Seems like you can cut the bucket:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

Here you go. It works pretty awesome and it makes your car look all shiny. 😀😊

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_W7bRCbKPMN7GC

Buy many microfiber towels - noted. How do you think something like this would work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X04JRMU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SUA7J0YAZSHI&psc=1

Certainly!

The MTM PF22
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G4GPR5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jysJDbA8SKX01

Basic foam cannon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nzsJDb679VTVR

I just bought a ryobi 2000psi 1.2 gpm machine and a $20 MATTC foam gun and it worked extremely well, just like the chemical guys videos, tons of fun. The pressure washer also cleaned my deck and driveway surprisingly well. I'm super pleased with it. If you're ordering online the sun joe spx3000 is more powerful for the same price, at 2030 psi and 1.75 gpm, but being able to go a mile from my house to return my unit if anything came up was a big point to me too.

Foam Gun

I used chemical guys citrus wash and gloss (it's worth it to get a gallon) with three pumps (3oz) and the foam cannon turned full open to max foam. It made a really thick shaving cream like lather.

This one works well and it's $20. Been using it for almost a year without fail. https://www.amazon.com/MATCC-Adjustable-Bottle-Lance-Connector/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496779024&sr=8-3&keywords=foam+cannon

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7rk9Bb8PFWR2E

I just use a cheap MATCC foam cannon from Amazon. So far I've been using the Chemical Guys honeydew shampoo and it works really well.

I can't really tell you what cannon and soap we used because my friend provided it for himself and I. We used my power washer though. I think it all comes down to what kind of power washer you have. We used my dads and he has a really nice and expensive one. My buddy told me he bought a 15 dollar cannon off of amazon and the soap was a generic car soap from pep boys, you can use dish soap as well. Overall though it was a really cool experience but I'm a little disappointed. It came out ok but not great because we dried our cars like shit lol. I'll be sticking to the car wash.

Edit: MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4nUNzbB92ZM6Z

That's the foam cannon we used and for the power washer I have no idea. All I know is that it's a strong one. You can do this with a garden hose to but you'll get weaker results then what I got

MATCC Adjustable Foam Cannon 1 Liter Bottle Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector Foam Blaster for Pressure Washer Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qC.RCb3DSJ0K2

You'd have to open up the mouse, and clean the switch with some contact cleaner spray.

Something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411762940&sr=8-3&keywords=electronic+contact+cleaner

OR if you're skilled with electronics enough you can just replace the switch itself.

Unfortunately it's pretty common for nagas to fail this way. Buddy of mine had it happen to him too.

If you were to do it, I'd think the linked spray would be what you'd use, NOT WD-40.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

Edit: There are other cleaners as well.

Electronics cleaner. It's like a less abrasive brake-clean that's still a solvent and meant for use on electronics.

Buy yourself a can of this stuff and spray the inside of your connectors. You don't need to get it from amazon, walmart and auto parts stores have it. Let it air dry, should only take a couple minutes. Also check to see if all the pins in the connectors are in good shape.

That points to the motor. You can try hosing it out with Plastic safe contact cleaner to see if there is an improvement but you might need a new motor.

Usually a decent sized hardware store should carry that, at least in the US where I live they do. I know this one works perfectly for it that is on Amazon CA.

QD electric cleaner. That stuff will high pressure blast that stuff out. Toth burshwill help dislodge and mix the paste with it. I love this stuff.

http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

This stuff should do the job. It's an amazing degreaser, and doesn't leave a mess and won't ruin your flooring. It's entirely clear.

https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479920047&sr=8-2&keywords=electro+contact+cleaner

This stuff is pretty good at cleaning electronic connections. Also very useful for old stereo pots

They have a good selection and reasonable prices. The TTX brand controllers there are pretty good, not quite as nice as the Sony controllers but they worked with my stuff so far if you want new ones instead of used again. Try taking the controller apart though and cleaning it... http://www.instructables.com/id/Clean-Your-DualShock-Controller/?ALLSTEPS be sure to put the R2 L2 buttons back in after assembly and they will work with out having to try multiple times, they just snap back in after cleaning. Sometimes this works.

Edit:
You could also try contact cleaner with the unit unplugged, spay it into the controller port and controller plug http://www.amazon.com/CRC-05101-QD-Electronic-Cleaner/dp/B000CCMLD0

So Try,
Cleaning controllers, new controller, cleaning ports, and if those all fail, then its then most likely the system but they are pretty robust as others have stated

If you're not crashing, you're not flying fast enough ;-)

For those of us who crash often into dust/dirt/sand/grass, I recommend the following:

• Bring a can of compressed air with you when you fly. This will be the first step for removing debris from your mini motors.
  
  
• I REALLY like this plastic-safe electronics cleaner, and it seems to do an excellent job of removing sand [errr, what?] from my motors after I've thoroughly sprayed them out with the compressed air. Most bearings are sealed so you won't need to worry about degrading the bearing lubricant. That being said I try to use as little spray as possible.
  
  Hope this helps!

Guy at a track day clued me into this stuff a few years back - Nevr-Dull Wadding Polish.

Removes everything without hard scrubbing, leaves a protective coating that makes it so you can wipe daily carbon buildup away with a dry rag.
Fucking amazing, all four chrome tips of my 2013 WRX are still stainless/spotless after seven years.

Pro-tip, wad the wadding up in a rag or wear gloves to apply it. The chems in that stuff will seep into your skin very easily.

Eagle One "Never Dull" and a clean terry cloth or similar rag-type article of cloth. 30 seconds and some elbow grease and it will be all gone.
Link: [https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A]

I've had good luck with Nevr-Dull: http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A

It's slightly pitted so it may never be great again. However Eagle One Never Dull, any parts store will have it, will shine it up. Rub it on and polish it up, then wipe off with clean rag. Enjoy.

http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A

I've used this on a lot of non automotive related (reason I bought it in first place) pieces before with good results.https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-E301131001-Original-Nevr-Dull/dp/B000CNBI1A

As for the upholstery part, you might need to take that to an upholstery guy, some of that stuff is rather tricky. I think once you rip the fabric off you might have hard time getting another fabric on without a specialized sewing machine.

haha I always love parking next to another GTI. Even better when I return to my car to find another one parked next to it :]

I also recommend some Nevr Dull to help keep your exhaust tips shiny https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A :P

It happens. I haven't used it myself yet, but Eagle One - Never Dull is supposed to make an easy(er) time of cleaning it up.

You should use this on all the luggage hardware.

It will make an incredible difference. I use it on old bicycles.

I pretty sure they are aluminum maybe billet but that is a stretch. I would use Eagle One Never Dull. That shit works on everything like a charm!

Thanks. I went with this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Eagle-One-1035605-Nevr-Dull-Wadding/dp/B000CNBI1A since it said safe on all metal. Worked really well. If I know for sure it was stainless I was going to go at it with some 0000 steel wool. I read that it's a bad idea to use that on chromed metal.

Nevr-Dull works pretty good, but I agree many others, I like the patina.

Those rust spots/chips on the deadbolt, no way to get rid of those without replacing the lock.

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474768803&sr=8-1&keywords=cape+cod+polish

My Angels Birkin pins also were very tarnished. I used tiny Cape cod polishing cloth and it lightened a bit, but not perfect like my UB’s Kelly pins. Angel’s bags often have tarnished pins unfortunately.

Just this?

https://www.amazon.ca/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

I’ll just wipe it on the clasp? Anything that can go bad with this?

If you are trying to remove smudges/scratches - pick up a high quality microfiber and I honestly use glasses lens cleaner. You need liquid for lubrication so you aren't "rubbing" the surface, but more "buffing" because the liquid is doing all the cleaning/emulsifying. Spray onto the cloth then apply to the watch

Lens cleaner works great for removing oils and such, crystal or metal doesn't seem to matter. Most lens cleaner is designed to be safe for AR coatings

​

After that, you can use some metal polish or polishing cloths to help level the area around the scratch to "remove" the scratch.

https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

​

Note: that you can't really remove a scratch, but you can level the surrounding area so the scratch doesn't exist any more.

Also be very careful when you are using polishing cloths or compound - you don't want to affect any brushed areas or it will change the finish. I don't have too much issue with that personally, just need to be careful.

​

http://www.amazon.com/Cape-Metal-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO

These will be your best friends. They're great for mostly everything but the deep deep nicks. Take off your band from the watch, turn off the watch, put on gloves scrub away, rinse. I do it about once a month and mine looks brand new each time.

It won't take it all the way off but it'll look better if you use a cape cod cloth on it.

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloths Foil Pouch 0.53oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rqAcBbJQQBC9N

Any competent watchmaker could polish that out as well.

As far as too deep.... It all comes down to how much surrounding metal you want to loose. Usually if your fingernail catches good on it, it won't come out unless you really polish the hell out of it.

For the polished bezel - Cape Cod Polishing Cloth...

For the brushed parts, a set of 3M papers...

Nothing will 100% match a factory finish, but those are the easiest things for most people to do at home - and if you’re patient and work slowly/carefully you should get close.

Brushed area is harder to match, so make sure you work somewhere stable and with a steady hand using the 3M papers. One direction only...etc. Hardest part to “freehand” would probably be the circular brushing on the caseback.

wtc CapeCod cloth - This one? https://www.amazon.com/Cape-Cod-Polishing-Cloths-0-53oz/dp/B0017H3PIO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525727483&sr=8-1&keywords=cape+cod+cloth

Whoops - I purchased this guy yesterday to try it out: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0017H3PIO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But if I end up liking it, I will get the full tin, as you say.
I guess what I've been doing when I polish is applying the polishing compound on the cloth disk, and giving up instantly as soon as I see that it is turning my pieces grey and cloudy. I'll give it a bit longer this time. Thanks for your reply! All the best.

So this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-Detail-Brush-Set-Pack/dp/B001GJ3EJS

and this

https://www.amazon.com/Omega-17181616-Speed-Master-Wheel/dp/B00E9E76F0

Why do you like this one better than say

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Detail-3001-BP-Brush-Mini/dp/B007UTN60K

I know its almost always just what someone has or bought but figured I would ask. Thanks for the recommendations.

I used sonax and this brush http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS.

Then I finished up with a chenille wash mitt. That's seems to work for me.

I need to invest in a better brush for the barrels, don't have anything for that yet.

This is what I currently use for the tires themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS
As for the rims, a good cleaner like Sonax can really help, but other than that, I just use some cheap microfibers to wipe em' down

Sure thing! $18 on Amazon. Here you go:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DKC6IY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MWRaBbN5EZXP7

And I used Meguiar’s Gold Class soap, $10 for a gallon at Advance Auto. And I picked up four (2 2-packs) of these in X-Large size (having 4 is nice because you clean one section of the car with one, then grab a brand new one for the next section of car, no rinsing required):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iYRaBb1CG00GR

And lastly, a 9-pack of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S1U5TWA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Oh, and a wheel brush:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GJ3DZS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:

• Meg's Quick Interior Detailer
  
• 303 protectant
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Wax (spray)
  
• Meg's Ultimate Quik Detailer (spray)
  
• Some MF pads
  
• [Detailing brushes]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWBDBFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
• Tire dressing applicators
  
• Mother's wheel brush
  
• Costco MF towels
  
  And probably some other random stuff. Most of what I've listed above I haven't even used yet! So some quick questions!
  
  

1. I have been considering getting some Meg's APC. Am I correct that I could use this on tires, light buildup on tailpipes, Husky (like Weatherbeater) all-weather floor mats? Any guidelines on dilution for these applications; and what else could the APC be used for?
   
2. For interior cleaning, can I safely use the Meg's QID with the brushes to get inside crevices including around switchgear without risk of short-circuiting something?
   
3. QID on a MF OK to clean nav/LCD screens?
   
   We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.
   
   Thanks for reading this long-winded post!

There is a product (I use meguiar's brand) called compound that you can use to minimize the appearance of swirls if applied by hand, and if done with a dual action polisher will remove them completely. It is also great for removing shallow scratches in clear coat and general clear coat issues (aside from flaking and scratches that are deep). Check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info :)

Meguiar's Ultimate

> some compound

Are you taking about something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&%2AVersion%2A=1&%2Aentries%2A=0&ie=UTF8?

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM

​

i have good luck with that stuff - wallyworld has it as well as every auto parts place

Yes, agreed. 800 -> 2000 grit. You will want to alternate directions (ie. if you are doing left & right with 800 grit, then go up & down with 1000 etc) and make sure that the scratches left behind by the previous grit are all gone before moving to the next one. You'll want swirl remover like Meguire's Ultimate Compound after you finish with the 2000 grit. There are several grades of swirl remover with finer and finer grits -- if you're really anal about it, you can get a coarse and a fine, but I only used the Ultimate compound and it worked well for me. It's a lot of work, but can be a really rewarding experience if you get the result you're looking for. You might even find you enjoyed it in the end and start building/refinishing your own partscasters, which is what I do now :)

Good luck!

Looks like delaminating clear coat. I highly recommend using McGuire's to polish just about anything with paint on it. Beautiful product that works wonders. Lovely bike it seems!

You use Novus #1?

Don't use window cleaners as the chemicals inside (like ammonia) can be abrasive and cause hairline cracks in acrylic. Window cleaner is designed for glass and not plastic, which is why you shouldn't use it on your TV and monitors either.

Use something like Brillianize or Novus, which is a dedicated plastic polish/cleaner and has silicone in it to prevent scratching from abrasive materials. For more info, check out this YouTube video.

As a last ditch effort, you could try using a small amount of petroleum jelly like Vaseline to fill in hairline scratches.