Best fencing railings & pickets according to redditors

We found 39 Reddit comments discussing the best fencing railings & pickets. We ranked the 20 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Subcategories:

Decking pickets
Decking railings
Decking & fencing weatherproofing products
Decking posts & accessories

Top Reddit comments about Fencing Railings & Pickets:

u/Goloith · 12 pointsr/guns

Then that's a shitty ass gun range. Most ranges don't give a shit about retarded laws. Personally I have a copy of the March 21, 2017 letter on me when I take my AR 9 to the range.

Anyways here's my AR 9

http://i.imgur.com/D4onaM8.jpg

u/Crabbity · 6 pointsr/Truckers

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Aircraft-Bicycle-Cutter/dp/B078HTTPL2

just look for wire rope cutters, electrical supply houses usually have them.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/DIY

Do you mean patio? :P


Easy enough. Get one of these then do the hammer drill thing. For bolts in to the concrete either use the wedge anchor or set some bolts in with epoxy. Probably wise to use stainless steel for all your bolts.

u/CoffeeNomad51 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

4x4 Post Support table Leg Bracket w/screws (actual Size 3.5"x3.5") POST NOT INCLUDED! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W53CML2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/robert_cortese · 3 pointsr/SanJose

>That's a gorgeous fence

My wife would digress, she says the curve isn't centered. 2 flats on one side, 3 on the other.

>I am an idiot

C'mon you run trivia nights, I've seen you post here plenty. There are true idiots on this sub, and you're not one of them (IMHO)

>don't know if I could actually do that.

Don't know until you try. I didn't know until I tried, but I had some fencebuilding experience when my family still had ranches (mostly the old men yelling at me to carry wood, sand, nail, no cutting)

This is how I did it. Maybe I can lend a hand, I dunno. You'd have to entertain my wife and kids and maybe feed us or something. Maybe you could do the same for us sometime.

Tools: (mostly cheap harbor freight)

  • Miter box saw. This let's you cut fairly precise angles.
  • Jig Saw. For finishing the curve on top.
  • Drill. For putting things together
  • Hammer Drill. For drilling in cement anchors (Mine is freestanding, not attached to the fence or house)
  • String, for making that swooshy curve.

    I started off by measuring. Once I had my measurements in, I took a long hard look at my neighbors fence (we have that picture) and copied the framing. I scaled it for my entryway.

    Once I had the basic design down, I drilled in my post cement anchors. I used 4 of these Simpson Strong Tie Fence Anchors. Even after a year, the fence is still as strong as the day I made it.

    After I had my posts up, I put the J screw hinge onto the posts and connected some cross members so the posts would shore up against each other.

    I took what would become my gate frame, and put the other half of the j screw hinge in. Then I did one final measure now that I knew how much space the hinges took up.

    Pulled the 4x4's off the hinge post, and built out the rest of my frame. I made sure to leave plenty of room at the bottom for the gate to swing freely. After the frames were complete, I re-hung them on the J hooks.

    Once the frames were up, I began skinning them. I laid a 4x4 at the bottom to give myself spacing (Didn't want the skin scraping) and put up fenceboard. Throughout this entire process, I used deck screws with the star bit. These bits don't slip, and the screws are coated to sort of self lubricate themselves through the wood.

    After all the skin was up, I tied a string to where I thought was center at the bottom of the fence. I stretched the string to the top of the fence and tied a crayon to it (just didn't have a pencil) The string acts like a giant compass, and let me make a nice even arc.

    Finally, I took a hand held jig saw and sawed along the line at the top making that nice curve.

    Only took me a day to knock it out.

u/hvyhitter · 2 pointsr/sailing

Id buy stuff from you. Ive been watching Niki from untie the lines and she measured her own and had someone swage them. she measured wrong and had to cut them down (ouch). My rig comes down tomorrow and I am going to inspect it. Ive learned a few things from Youtube LOL.

In fact. I need some lifelines. I had a swage fall off one and I got it lashed right now with some paracord. The boat comes out 8am tommorrow and wont go back in until april it is on my project list.

I was going to buy this
https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Package-Stainless-Marine-Packages/dp/B00IX42OAO/ref=pd_rhf_gw_p_img_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7DV1WPHY4SN6FRCXEA8B

and smash it on with this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PCHK4JS/ref=pd_sim_60_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q25GD64S095G2F2T2Z08

Im not convinced my lifelines are that important.. AND I think they are below my knees so chances are I am going to go over it anyhow.. ANd break them in the process. I have all kinds of handholds when I go to the foredeck.

anyhow.. love to get your thoughts. because I know you wont BS me. (We have spoken a few times here)

u/bluefalcon4ever · 2 pointsr/army

Gun smiths.

Are you going to be using a laser sight or a laser pointer?

Like buy a 4 segment rail and another picatinny thingy and mate the two things with epoxy or something. At a 90 degree angle.

u/S_W · 2 pointsr/DIY

I've looked into this quite a bit and the best way I found (which may be overkill) is to get the following:

  • vinyl coated steel cable LINK
  • Swageless Fork Terminal LINK
  • Eye Hooks at your mounting points that the terminals will connect to
  • Optional Turnbuckles LINK

    The turnbuckles would really only be needed if you don't believe you could get the steel cable tight enough, but if you have a short span it shouldn't be an issue. If you plan to run the steel cable through each eye hook and only have the terminals at the ends, then the turnbuckle may be needed.

    EDIT:
    They also make much cleaner looking solutions where the terminals have a built-in turnbuckle like THIS and terminals that have a lag bolt already attached which would remove the need for eye hooks like THIS
u/jrhooo · 2 pointsr/ar15

Magpul 5 slot MOE rail section

Quick 3 minute install. costs about $6

https://imgur.com/a/4WI8ply

u/PositiveFalse · 2 pointsr/DIY

Long story short (sorry, not really), if $2/baluster is within your budget, then black-coated round ALUMINUM 26-inchers are there for the taking. I'm estimating that you'll need 170 for your fifty feet, give or take. Steel versions may also be available for less money - or more money, depending - but those are typically not ideally suited for exterior use...

https://www.amazon.com/Deckorators-Aluminum-26-Balusters-DB52613/dp/B01BUAXYP6

Home Depot, Lowe's & Menard's should have similar buys. Take a close look at the reviewer images and you'll see that some utilized decorative mounts and some didn't. They're NOT required...

Now, with a Tee at the top, the vertical member does the lion's share of the work. If someone sits on the section, it's literally the joist that carries the load. With the handrail that runs flat across the top length of that "joist,", the railing becomes more dimensionally stable, with the horizontal and vertical members keeping each other in check. And everything below is basically there for aesthetics...

Essentially, the "joist" of the Tee is bored to accept a baluster at 1-inch depth, the bottom post-to-post runner is bored to accept a baluster at 1/2in depth. All in alignment, of course. The runner is mounted at a distance 1-inch shy of the baluster length from the bottom of the Tee. Then each baluster is pushed up into the "joist" and dropped into place in the runner. Carefully add a little construction adhesive into those runner bores before dropping each baluster into place and those components will NOT come apart without some effort!

If using brackets to hang each section from post-to-post, and if using construction adhesive to bond the handrail to the "joist," then the visible use of fasteners can be practically reduced to almost nothing...

Hope this helps, again!

Edit #1: From that Amazon link, the third reviewer's sectional construction is basically what I was trying to describe assembled...

Edit #2:
If using brackets, then everything can be easily dropped into place with the balusters sandwiched into position. Therefore, the "joist" bore can be 1/2-inch deep, just like the runner bore, and construction adhesive won't be needed at all...

u/mdwyer · 1 pointr/Whatisthis

I agree. It is a DIN Rail Terminal Block. In a lot of industrial electrical systems, different things can be interchangeably mounted to a section of DIN Rail.

u/Jimskalajim · 1 pointr/ploompax

Nope, get the pax caps...
Prescott Plastics 10 Pack: 3/4 Inch Round Black Vinyl End Cap, Cover Rubber Flexible Tube Pipe Marine Safety Tip 0.75" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QVZ11PG/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_PEKVDbQWN1QR4

u/LD_in_MT · 1 pointr/Welding

I feel better about the 1/2" rod if it goes all the way through, but 1/2" doesn't sound particularly rigid.

What I would do is make the 1" tubing (below the 1/2" rod) flush with the bottom board, so that the 1" tubing can't flex under load. I don't like any give, flex of sway. Notice how it's harder to do a handstand on carpet or any surface with give, versus a hard floor?

I've been thinking about making something like this but I want it to break down for easier transport. I was thinking about something close to what you have but with the down tube (1/2" rod in your build) sleeved at the base inside a slightly larger tube and secured with a pin, like this: https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-25080-CURT-Safety/dp/B001GN3H5A But the fit needs to be tight, so I might need set screws. Something that looks like this at the base. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Square-Component-Terminal-Railing/dp/B00VS60MYO/

I'd probable use a thin-wall 1" box tubing for the whole thing, screwed into a 2' x 3' x 3/4" plywood. Under the hand supports (at top) I'd weld a metal plate slightly smaller than the wood hand grips with shallow screws up from the bottom. Id' make the metal base one piece, versus two.

u/Pastor-of-Disastor · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Maybe some sort of cap that goes over the contact area? This is what I found quickly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M4QXUK3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-4A1Cb661YDE3

u/Jmyers6213 · 1 pointr/malelivingspace

Cable Railing Kit Deck Railing 20... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FM3DV8P?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I was pleased w the quality for the price.

u/lost_profit · 1 pointr/MINI
u/WhitefangdDS · 1 pointr/guns

Would this http://amzn.com/B003F6EMQO work?

Where can I find a rail with those dimensions?

u/happyshlappy · 1 pointr/ar15

Yep, toss one of these on the side for the light, one in the bottom for the grip/bipod. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6yjtybJNE8QMW

u/ShartEnthusiast · 1 pointr/guns

Kinda like this, assuming the hole spacing is correct...


Magpul MAG406-BLK MOE Polymer Rail Section, 5-Slot, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y0h0Db146TSVR

u/the5thpixel · 1 pointr/ar15

I believe both the magpul AFG and VFG can mount to that handguard WITHOUT using rails... one of the perks. I know the VFG can for sure. I mount a flashlight on my handguard (I have the same one) and I use the tiny rail section and mount it on the side. Here is the rail I got: http://www.amazon.com/Magpul-MOE-Rail-Section-Black/dp/B003F6EMQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421023661&sr=8-1&keywords=moe+rail

u/SearingPhoenix · 1 pointr/Nerf

Copied from the album:

>Fantastic little light package. The reason I particularly like this kit is because the the flashlight houses its own charging circuit, so you just plug Micro USB in and you can charge it on the fly (off a phone charger), no need for something like a NiteCore charger.

>The overall size of this thing is tiny for how much light it puts out. It has three settings, with memory for the last one used when turned on, from 'blinding' to 'good enough' to 'decidedly dim, but bright enough to not trip over things'. I set it to the middle one. While it has a strobe mode, it's quite difficult to activate accidentally --requiring repeated rapid presses -- which is great for Nerf. I did have to pad the mount with a rubber band, as the flashlight is a smidge under the 1" diameter for the mount. That's fine, though, as it protects the finish of the flashlight from metal-on-metal contact. A polymer mount would be significantly lighter, and I might look to see if one is out there.

>The parts of this kit are as follows.:

>MagPul 5-slot MOE rail

>Off-set 1" Flashlight Picatinny Mount

>JetBeam EC-R16

u/gunthrowaway99 · 1 pointr/guns

I have a Mossberg 590A1 (18" barrel / bead sight) with...

u/chrisbrl88 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Dig a hole 2 feet deep (minimum), pour a footer using an 8" tube form, and use a post base. You can set the base and put the anchors into the concrete while it's still wet to avoid having to drill (just make sure you get it plumb using a torpedoes level). It'll run you all of fifty bucks. The EZ base is the most expensive part.

u/Hedsteve · 1 pointr/DIY

Fill the buckets and then install brackets on top.

brackets on Amazon